Issue 4 - The Open Issue

THE UNTOLD #4

Cover by Martyna WĹ‚odarczyk

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index/ credits

credits EDITOR Callum Bird.

HEAD WRITER Jade Shaw CONTRIBUTIONS Laura Miucci, Margherita Calatiy, Kira Bucca, Josefien Hoekstra, Dirk Wilms, Martyna Wlodarczyk, Hari Lualhati.

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index

PHOTOGRAPHY

February 2014 Issue 4

6

Laura Miucci

10

Margherita Calatiy

22

Kira Bucca

34

Margherita Calatiy

60

Josefien Hoekstra

68

Dirk Wilms

72

Martyna WĹ‚odarczyk

ART 52

Hari Lualhati

ARTICLES 24

A Real Furry Problem: Is Faux Still Safe?

60

Hats Off to Isabella Blow

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6 22

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10 34

52 68

60 72

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Tapes Color Photography by Laura Miucci, 25 from Italy MUA & Hairstyling by

Ilaria Rabbia, Michela Riva & Serena Page 6

Model: Alessandra Maria

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Model: Alice Past

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Laura Miucci was born on the 17th September 1988 in Como (Italy).

Laura is an emerging Italian photographer and post producer.

A passion for photography since childhood, she began to experiment in 2012 by seriously working on photo shoots for all ideas are entirely her own. She also consideres herself as a stylist and post production retoucher, whilst she favors beauty and fashion photography as her main style to work in.

Someone once said that her photographs are an explosion of colours.

She collaborates with magazines both home decor and lifestyle. Eclectic and multifaceted, her evolving loves are to travel and experience new photographic techniques, with the dream of working internationally in the near future.

Model: Ilaria Rabbia

Model: Paulina Nwosu

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Welcome to My Dolls House Photography by Margherita Calatiy, 27 from Italy Model:

Alexandra Ciubotaru

Designer:

VINTRICItwentynine速

Styling:

Simone Vintrici

Make up: Anna Filosa

Hair styling:

Celeste Calabrese & Manuela Crugliano

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Calati is a freelance photographer from Italy with a speciality in portrait and fashion photography.

After studying architecture at Politecnico di Torino, and only after graduating with honors in March 2011 did Calati choose the way of photography. Having already gained technical knowledge through advanced courses and several workshops with professional photographer, he tries to work alone and build his own style.

In a few months he saw his work recognized by importable national web pages, magazine and successful brands and has the opportunity to collaborate with important professionals.

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He loves to give a romantic and feminine touch to his photographs such as dream-like locations where everything is delicate.

For this work “Welcome to my Dollhouse”, Calati wanted something like a fairy tale. The house that he picked was pefect with aspects of elegance and classic richness. His model’s reflected this, with the blue-haired one already seeming to be a little doll-like with her eccentric and colourful clothes.

For this series, he got his inspiration from one of his favourite photographers - Tim Walker.

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Photography by Kira Bucca From New York CityModels: Ryan Danvers Stylist: eLeana Kanellou Groomer: Briana Danielle Chapman Photography Assistant: Tam Nguyen Stylist Assistant: Aiesha Mumford Page 22

It’s a Boy Thing Kira Bucca is a fashion, beauty and advertising photographer based in New York City. Her editorial work has been featured in several publications including Beauty Etc., Chaos, Fantasticsmag, Fault, Obvious, Papercut, Plaid, Sessions, Tinsel Tokyo, VietSun, and Zink. Her highlighted fashion advertising clients include 5W, Barnard College, Benson, BGN (international campaign), Isn’t She Lovely, Merc USA, Oxan, PR Factory, and Thea.

Kira’s photographic career began with shooting desert scenery while studying abroad in Australia, and continued with people and fashion photography upon her return to North America. After completing her graduate work in Toronto, she returned to the US to shoot fashion full time, and assist top photographers on assignments for Harper’s Bazaar, GQ, ELLE, and Ocean Drive. While most of her focus is on fashion, Kira recently exhibited a collection of personal works at the Skyline Gallery in New York.

“I don’t get to shoot enough guys. Everyone wants me to shoot women, which is lovely, but every once in a while I like to get my boy fix. This was pure indulgence for me. The location was near my home and has a conveniently European feel. I wanted something that would be very youthful boy. I haven’t shot a lot of stuff like this, and would like to change that. I wanted the clothing to be relatable, but fun.

I look to European magazines and art a lot. I like to mix my NYC feel with the elegance of Europe. I had noticed this one location, which is literally a tiny patio and knew it would be perfect. The landlord of the space owns many cats and I figured it would be a nice touch to mix an adorable boy with adorable kittens, completely encapsulating youth.

A lot of my shoots are very planned, but I could tell from Ryan’s images that he has the right kind of personality to drive a shoot. I wanted to make this series more about Ryan and being young, sexy, but not being afraid of being soft and sensitive.

On top of this, I wanted to keep the shoot from a female’s perfective: sexy, smart, sensitive, and personal. I wanted Ryan’s story to shine from behind his eyes.”

Top Left: Shirt: Christina Yi, Pants: NINH, Shoes: Aldo.

Bottom Left: T-Shirt: Topman, Jacket: NINH

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Above: Shirt: Desigual, Pants: Christina Yi, Shoes: Topman

It’s a debate that has been rolling on for years. One that has been plastered in the news, in our favourite fashion magazines and even on the runway shows. It’s been fought for and against, passionately on both sides, and every time we think we may have heard the last of it, it flares back up with new vigour. And this time is no exception, but there is a difference in the latest fur related fiasco; those against the use of fur have just found out something that will make you re-think that next furry purchase!

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Fur, like many things, has com with the ongoing cycle of wh it makes it’s comeback, deba come from those against a years fur has been used in fa friendly alternatives were thr Faux fur, synthetic material became the closest, and kind keep your moral compass p

me in and out of our wardrobes hat is on trend. Every turn where bates rise back up and protests animal cruelty. Over the many ashion, more and more animal rust into the fashion lime light. with the same look and feel, dest, way to look on trend and pointed in the right direction.

Article by Jade Shaw

A Real Furry Problem: Is Faux Still Safe?

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With faux fur products now so high in our demand, and real animal fur products still on the shelves, it would’ve appeared that a fashionable understanding had been reached. Higher end fashion houses, or those not opposed, would stock the real deal, and those in the lower end, or those who love animals too much to wear their skin, would stock the faux. It seems simple enough, when you think about it, things were divided and separate, and everyone got some of what they wanted. But a new discovery by The Humane Society of the United States has certainly rocked the boat.

Every season The Humane Society looks into the fashion that is on our rails, but never before has it’s results been so widely published and commented on than Page 26

Left: Shirt: Desigual, Pants: Christina Yi. Above: Shirt: H&M, Vest: NINH, Pants: Desigual.

now. Their most recent discovery shows that a lot of fashion houses, and many high street retailers, are stocking products labelled as faux fur, that have then been found to contain real rabbit, raccoon and raccoon dog fur. In the States it is a federal crime to mislabel fur, and many retailers have found themselves in some pretty hot water. Labels that came under serious fire this past year included Neiman Marcus, Dr. Jays, Eminent, Alice + Olivia, Burberry and Marc Jacobs.

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They, surprisingly, we not the only one’s. In December the Humane Society issued a consumer warning message against Kohl’s retailer, who they found to be advertising one of their handbags, with alleged faux fur trimming, when in fact, the trimming was rabbit. The Humane Society urged Kohl’s to join their Fur-Free campaign, and more actively monitor the products they were selling. Pierre Grzybowski, research and enforcement manager for the campaign stated “We’re calling on Kohl’s to adopt a fur free policy and more robust quality control program, and urging consumers to learn how to tell animal fur from fake fur so they can shop with confidence”.

So, why the sudden deception in our faux fur products? Traditionally, cheap animal furs were sold as higher quality, more expensive furs, trying to make people spend more on lower quality real fur products when the higher quality fur was much harder to come by. But now, it seems faux fur is being labelled as such, regardless of it’s real animal content, to capture the business of those of us consumers who try to avoid the real product. The Huffington Post in it’s article on the matter declared; “The demand for faux fur has increased as more people aim to shop cruelty-free. As manufacturers try to meet this demand, products are often mislabelled.”

Additionally,the discovery was made that most of the mislabelled items were found to contain raccoon dog fur. Raccoon dog fur actually costs lest to gain, than manufacturing a synthetic fur. What is worrying is that raccoon dogs are documents to endure extremely inhumane harvesting practices when it comes to their fur, such as electroshock and being skinned alive, in countries with unregulated, minimal, or no animal welfare laws. It would seem manufacturer’s care more about the costs than what the animals go through for them to trim a bag, or coat.

Left: Shirt: NINH, Pants: Christina Yi, Necklace: Zoa Chimerum, Shoes: Aldo

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Above: Shirt: H&M, Vest: NINH, Pants: Desigual, Shoes: Topman.

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Retailers have been responding to the recent discovery in many ways, The Humane Society issued a statement informing their followers of the retailers and designers who were putting into place new policies to phase out the sale of raccoon dog fur in their products. As raccoon dog is the most widely mislabelled fur product out there, phasing this out will most likely dramatically decrease the misrepresentation in the fur/faux fur area. Other retailers, such as Dr. Jays, attributed the problem to poor garment labelling. The CEO of Dr. Jays, in an email to the New York Times, is reported to have stated that “There were a handful of instances where a word may have been omitted in our product descriptions, and others where the word “fur” was used to describe the style [of product], not intending to describe the content.”

In all, this all means it’s just become a lot harder to determine what is real, and what really is fake, which is the main reason this new controversy has really become a big problem. Short of avoiding any kind of fur products all together, there now seems to be no real way to distinguish what you are really buying when you pick out a new fur jacket for the winter seasons. But, there are ways to tell the difference between real and fake, and the Humane Society have a Field Guide to Telling Animal Fur from Fake fur on their website, for any of us who aren’t quite ready to kick the fake fur from our lives just yet.

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Left: Top: Christina Yi, Bracelet: Zoa Chimerum Above: Shirt: H&M, Pants: NINH, Scarf: Topman Page 33

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Crepuscolaria Photography by Margherita Calatiy, 27 from Italy Model:

Gala Oleynikova

Styling:

Olympia de Molossi

Make up & Hair styling: Silvia Galeazzo

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“Crepuscolaria� was born as a story about light and darkness. Calati wanted to bring out the amazing Marianna Lanzilli bridal dress, comparing it to other total black outfits. He thought about the twilight, when the dark comes to cover everything, and then the moon and stars’ light rises up just as the white dress.

The model is light herself, and with her ice eyes and golden make up, it made her a first choice model for Calati.

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Artist Feature Paintings by Hari Lualhati, 28 from South Africa

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Title: Never Let Me Go Medium: Oil on Canvas Size: 760mm x 1010mm

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Hari Lualhati is an artist, painter, illustrator, graphic artist and designer. She was born in the Philippines and obtained her degree in Fine Arts from the University of the Philippines, Diliman in 2006. Lualhati has worked in Manila, Hong Kong and Shenzhen China, but currently resides in South Africa.

Lualhati has received numerous awards from different international competitions like The Palm Art Award Certificate of Excellence in 2012 in Germany, the Art Takes Miami: 1001 Artist Project in 2012 in Miami, and has been selected for the 1st Biennale of Art of Palermo 2012 in Italy, and part of the shortlist of Ken Bromley Art Supplies Cover Competitions in 2012 for the UK. Apart from awards and commendations, Lualhati has also been featured in International magazines and Newspapers: The Philippine Star 2004, China Daily 2008, ARTtour International Magazine October 2012 Issue and January 2013 Issue as well as many more.

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Title: In the Name of Love Medium: Oil on Canvas Size: 760mm x 1010mm

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Title: Transcending Love Medium: Oil on Canvas Size: 760mm x 1010mm

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“Though I take into consideration the use of different techniques, I value more the feelings that I put into my works.

I paint with my heart. For me, a painting is

successful if it can make anyone who would look at it feel the emotion thats it’s suppose to give. It is like delivering a clear message by touching the hearts of the viewers.

Like a blossoming flower, Love can be so alluring yet so fragile.

It needs a constant supply of certain elements like sacrifice, care, loyalty, passion, and trust for it to sustain its beauty and for it to grow. This emotive quality is the inspiration for my latest series of works.

My art is heading towards passionate figurative compositions bults up by expressive line strokes and bold brush techniques necessary for certain emotions to show though, Together with this is my rich devotion to details that elevates the artworks aesthetics. The profound visual narrative and the techniques used aims to reveal the invisible within the visible.�

Hari Lualhati

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Article by Jade Shaw

Hats Off to Isabella Blow A magazine editor, muse of hat designer Philip Treacy, and the woman credited with the discovery of models such as Stella Tennant and Sophie Dahl, as well as designer Alexander McQueen, Isabella Blow is not someone you could say ever lived half a life. In her time, she did more than a lot of people in the industry could dream of. With an exhibition opening on November 20th to mark her exuberant personality, and fabulous career, it seems only right to dedicate a page or two towards her. (cont...)

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LOVESICK Photography by Josefien Hoekstra, Models: Lizzy Meow & Danny Van Tuijl Clothing: Bas Kosters Assistant: Marco Edelman

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Born Isabella Delves Broughton on 19th November 1958, Isabella was born in Marylebone, London, England, the eldest child of Major Sir Evelyn Delves Broughton and his second wife Helen Mary Shore. Her father was a military officer, whose sister married Simon Frasrer 15th Lord Lovat, and her mother a barrister.

her father’s death came to Isabella the loss of her family home, Doddington Hall in Cheshire, which she mourned terribly. On top of that her father, whose estate was worth over one million pounds, left to her £5,000, an amount described by the family as “pitiful”. The rest, he left to Isabella’s stepmother. If it were not so sad an ending for Isabella, one could liken Isabella had two sisters, her early years to a fairy Julia and Lavina, and a tale, and merely expect younger brother John, who for her a happy ending. unfortunately drowned at the age of 2 in the family She went on the study for pool. John had died in her A levels at Heathfield her arms, leaving Isabella School, she then enrolled with what was said to be at secretarial school and a dangerous streak, that took on odd jobs. Talking in would stay with her till 2002 to Tamsin Blanchard the end of her days. Her of The Observer, Blow younger years were marred said, “I’ve done the most with tragedies, including the peculiar jobs. I was working separation of her parents in a scone shop for years...I when she was 14. Her mother was a cleaner in London left the household, bidding for two years....and my her daughters goodbye cousin saw me in the post with nothing more than a office and said, What are handshake each. Blow often you doing? I said, What said her fondest childhood do you think I look like memories were trying on I’m doing? I’m a cleaner!” her mother’s pink hat, a memory she credits led to In 1979 Blow left the English her later career in fashion. world behind, and moved to new York to study Ancient Her relationship with her Chinese Art at Columbia father, was far from the University. During her time perfect family picture, the in the Big City, she shared a two had never really got flat with actress Catherine on in his life, and with his Oxenberg, the first of many passing it seemed there famous connections she would be no final peace would accrue in her time. A between the two. With year later, Isabella packed up

and left New York, heading for Texas to work with French designer Guy Laroche. 1981 brought with it a marriage to her first husband, Nicholas Taylor, and her introduction to then fashion director at Vouge US, Anna Wintour. She was hired to be Wintour’s assistant, but it wasn’t long before she began to assist Andre Leon Talley, the now US Vouge editor – at – large. While working at the magazine in New York, Isabella added Andy Warhol and JeanMichel Basquiat to her list of celebrity acquaintances.

1986 saw the Isabella’s return to London, she worked for Michael Roberts, director of the Tatler and the Sunday Times Stlye. Three years later she married her second husband Detmar Hamilton Blow, and Philip Treacy was called upon to designed her headdress, and here the famous relationship was born! Seeing Treacy’s talent, Isabella put him up in her London flat so he could work on his collections, and she wore his designs as the signature part of her flamboyant style. In her 2002 interview Blow declared she wore large hats to keep people from kissing her, stating she only wanted “..to be kissed by the people I love.” (cont...)

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Blow went on to do amazing things with her career, producing the Babes in London shoot with Steven Meisel,discovering Alexander McQueen (she brought his entire graduate collection for £5,000), and launching Sophie Dahl’s modelling career.

She became fashion director at the Tatler, starred in The Life Aquatic, was the subject of exhibitions and many other art and fashion projects world over. But though her life seemed perfect to most, behind the scenes a darkness grew in Isabella Blow.

Towards the end, Isabella became seriously depressed, she was reportedly anguished at

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her inability to “find a home in a world she influenced”and after Alexander McQueen didn’t take her along to Gucci with him, things seemed to get worse. She split from her husband in 2004, and during there split she was diagnosed with Bipolar disorder, and received electroshock therapy. After 18 months Isabella and Detmar were reconciled, but the world dealt her another hit, and she was diagnosed with ovarian cancer.

With the cancer threat looming over her head, and her waning celebrity status Isabella took a turn for the worst, and from 2006 she began making

multiple attempts on her life. From overdoses, attempted drownings, driving her car into the rear of trucks, and even jumping from the Hammersmith Flyover, which resulted in two broken ankles.

On May 6th 2007, Isabella’s attempts came to a head when she drank weed killer at her weekend house party. She was found by her sister, and died in hospital the next day. It was only after her death that her husband confirmed she had been suffering from depression and had once declared to him “I’m fighting depression and I can’t beat it.”

to understand, a woman who seemed to have it all wanting to get out as soon as she could, but depression has never been an easy illness to explain or overcome, and in the end her story is one of woe. But those close to her will always remember, not her sadness, but her vivaciousness and sparkle, her laughter and smiles. We who did not know her are left with her influence, and that is something she had a lot of, and something the industry will hopefully never lose.

To many looking upon her story, it may be hard

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A Kind of Absense Photography by Dirk Wilms 47 from Germany I’m a professional photographer since the 1990s, at that time mainly in portraitshootings and landscapes.

Today I spend most of my time doing my artistic work in my small studio, only there I feel safe. To me photography means to breathe life and to express myself.

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The first few years after my HIV diagnosis I barely left my house. I was afraid to go out for almost four years. I thought everyone who sees me out there must know immediately that I carry the virus in me. But I did not want to be forgotten. I wanted people to know after my death I was in his world. And so I decided to start documenting my life, my fears and my physical decline in an artistic style. I was able to photograph and staying at home at the same time. The first traces left by this virus were to be seen in my face. Thus the stylistic idea came to cover my face on most of the photos. The entire series is called “A Kind Of Absence�.

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Moi, La Fleur Photography by Martyna WĹ‚odarczyk 21 from Poland Model:

Dominika Kachlik

Styling:

Martyna Wlodarczyk

Make up:

Dominika Kacklik Page 72

MOI, LA FLEUR photo: Martyna WĹ‚odarczyk ( www.violetmermaid.digartfolio.pl / www.facebook.com/medusa. photo ) model: Dominika Kachlik/Avant Models style: Martyna WĹ‚odarczyk mua: Dominika Kachlik special thanks to: Czajka Family

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In this shooting not only the model is important but the garden as well. It was the Garden I wanted to capture, it’s beauty in the middle of the summer was my inspiration and I have made a woman one of it’s flowers. Once a very delicate, subtle rose, than a strict, scarlet one. A summer story with the strong flower fragrance.

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THE UNTOLD #5

THE BUMBPER ISSUE DEADLINE FOR SUBMISSION 21/04/14 Page 84