The WALK Spring 2023 by The WALK

THE

CELESTIAL ISSUE

SPRING/SUMMER 2023 Grace Holden Editor-in-Chief Megha Raman, Connor Brandon Creative Directors Rene Chen Videography Director

Adelyn Chen Editorial Director

Sarah Li Finance Director

Catherine Liu, Mea Ayers Art and Design Directors

Solunna Nwanko Marketing Director

Olivia Kim Photography Director

Hansie Wang Social Media Director

Valentina Chang Operations Director

Lola Thrower Website Director

EDITORIAL Feature Editors Sonia Mehta, Ujjayi Pamidigantam, Irma Kiss, Radina Rapi Copy Editors Hannah Zhao, Ellie Harris, Eunice Chong, Cathy Li, Taylor Channell, Alexandra Kanan Staff Writers Catherine Sorrentino, Abby Portnoy, Lucas Brienza, Shritha Mandava, Cynthia Schneider, Naya Majeed, Olivia Yun, Elizabeth (Libby) Collins, Nathan Cronin PHOTOGRAPHY Photographers Priya Bhavikatti, Giuliana Alleva, Gloria Lee, Jasmine Sun, Amanda Herrera, Intel Chen, Tina Zhang, Sarah Yoon, Matthew Schwartz VIDEOGRAPHY Videographers Hannah Hamdani, Oscar Vasquez, Brianna Geng • Video Editors Sophia Nehme, Jack Rogers, Jacqueline Davis, Atticus Lim ART AND DESIGN Assistant Art Director Antonia Solar • Illustrators Jackie Hu, Ellen Zhang, Atticus Lim, Maddy Davis, Insia Haque, Isha Bhandaru Designers Insia Haque, Isha Bhandaru, Louise Wang, Cecily Nishimura, Isabella Risoli, Antonia Solar, Claire Redmer, Noelani O’Hare, Naomi Lukov, Kyuho Lee STYLING AND BEAUTY Beauty Stylists Darlene Sam, Adya Gupta, Olivia Wendel, Darya Ameri, Riya Sinha Fashion Stylists Egret Jin, Rebecca Redlich, Dylan Walker, Victoria Rosa, Victoria de la Rosa, Jojo Buccini, Zaria Dancer, Kailah A’Janae Hester, Sarah Kim, Daniel Van Rooyen, Grace Dudek FINANCE Analysts Claudia Bellacosa, Eliza Fogel, Kate Cunha, Moira Connell, Wendi Song, Dylan Breier, Amanda Cui, Yana Sokivka, Tvisha Baxi, Christina Nguyen OPERATIONS Operations Coordinators Noor Majeed, Erika Kurre • Lead Merch Coordinator Madolin Bergman Merch Designer Gabby Gu • Social Chairs Maathangi Nellicherry, Sam Salcedo Martinez The WALK ONLINE Website Managing Editor Natalie McTigue • Website Tech Analysts Erin Ma, Caroline Begg Fashion & Culture Editors Lola Thrower, Kemi Ogunyankin, Sarah Bender, Elisabetta Araya, Taiwo Adeaga Fashion Writers Emily White , Shritha Mandava, Paige Gibbons, Chinonye Alilonu, Noor Majeed, Grace Dudek, Hannah Dastgheib, Sierra Marelia, Cali Gaer, Tiffany Li, Suya Que, Malia Sanghv, Moira Connell • Culture Writer Matthew Yin Health & Beauty Editors Zoe Millstein, Emily White • Health & Beauty Writers Clara Baurmeister, Maria Wahba, Grace Rhatigan, Anjeli de Blank MARKETING Event Coordinators Solunna Nwankwo, Giselle Wagner Brand Outreach Coordinators Myles Dismont Robinson, Kathleen Chen, Jasmine Gambhir Campus Engagement Coordinators Giselle Wagner, Peyton Singletary, Bhavana Chamarthi, Irene Kim, Raymond Liu Copyright © 2023 The WALK Magazine. All rights reserved. Stories edited by the editorial staff will carry bylines of the original author. Unless noted otherwise, all content is produced by The WALK teams. Please report corrections to thewalkmag@gmail.com. We will post corrections on our website, at www.thewalkmag.com. The University of Pennsylvania’s premier fashion magazine, The WALK was founded in 2006 as a student initiative and continues to be a student fueled organization. The WALK Online was launched in 2010 as a sister to the print edition. The WALK aims to satisfy our community’s widely-demanded fashion fix year-round.

SOCIAL MEDIA Social Media Content Producers Eliza Fogel, Anna Metzger, Katherine Kim, Elizabeth Basilious Social Media Photographers Margarita Matta, Hannah Hamdani, Anastasia Kolesnikova Social Media Engagement Managers Meredith Devine, Irene Pak

To get involved or learn about advertising and partnership opportunities, please contact us at thewalkmag@gmail.com.

The WALK Magazine

Spring 2023

The Celestial Issue

SPRING/SUMMER 2023 Grace Holden Editor-in-Chief Megha Raman, Connor Brandon Creative Directors Rene Chen Videography Director

Adelyn Chen Editorial Director

Sarah Li Finance Director

Catherine Liu, Mea Ayers Art and Design Directors

Solunna Nwanko Marketing Director

Olivia Kim Photography Director

Hansie Wang Social Media Director

Valentina Chang Operations Director

Lola Thrower Website Director

To get involved or learn about advertising and partnership opportunities, please contact us at thewalkmag@gmail.com.

The WALK Magazine

Spring 2023

The Celestial Issue

What’s in the Cards for you The past, present, and future of tarot

The Dying Star A glimpse of “Old Hollywood”

Under the Stars PHOTO ESSAY

This is What We’re Thankful for: The New Celestial The Carters, The Louvre, and the quest to challenge the norms in Western art through “Apeshit”

Cover Look: CELESTIAL Starry nights and starry eyes … our Celestial Issue cover look features model Marcus Ramirez and is styled by two of The WALK’s beloved seniors Connor Brandon and Megha Raman. The look emerges from our “Identities by Night” photo essay (starting on Page 52), and uses our theme to celebrate the art of drag. The most fabulous transgression of traditional gender norms, drag has historically been forced into the night. Embedded in the LGBTQ+ community, drag artists and drag shows were criminalised and targeted for most of the 20th century. Even now, in 2023, drag performers struggle to find peace as bills in 11 states aim to restrict drag performances in the presence of children (just the latest iteration of homophobia in the US). For so long, the late hours of the night have been the sanctuary of drag performers. Starry evenings have become an asylum for the queer community to play with the boundaries of gender and sexuality and draw strength from transformation. Our cover look is an ode to the drag community and echoes The WALK’s support for drag artists and their ongoing contributions to fashion and culture. We hope you, dear reader, think our cover look is “boots”. View more on page 52.

Starry-Eyed

The rise in messy, unrestrained use of glitter and shimmer in makeup

Comparing Vedic and Western Astrology All you need to know about the two astrological systems

Starry-Eyed PHOTO ESSAY

Inside Euphoria’s Closet

Understanding the detail that makes Euphoria’s costuming so magical

Costume Overture Heading backstage with Opera Philadelphia’s costume director and creative producer

Pan-Asian Dance Troupe: Making Leaps Behind the scenes of Penn’s premier Asian fusion dance troupe

Pan-Asian Dance Club PHOTO ESSAY

The Fashion Industry is Praying for you Why is the internet and the industry all in on Catholicism?

Identities by Night PHOTO ESSAY

Astrology in Style: More Than the Sun Sign How understanding astrology could transform your fashion

The WALK Magazine

Spring 2023

The Celestial Issue

What’s in the Cards for you The past, present, and future of tarot

The Dying Star A glimpse of “Old Hollywood”

Under the Stars PHOTO ESSAY

This is What We’re Thankful for: The New Celestial The Carters, The Louvre, and the quest to challenge the norms in Western art through “Apeshit”

Starry-Eyed

The rise in messy, unrestrained use of glitter and shimmer in makeup

Comparing Vedic and Western Astrology All you need to know about the two astrological systems

Starry-Eyed PHOTO ESSAY

Inside Euphoria’s Closet

Understanding the detail that makes Euphoria’s costuming so magical

Costume Overture Heading backstage with Opera Philadelphia’s costume director and creative producer

Pan-Asian Dance Troupe: Making Leaps Behind the scenes of Penn’s premier Asian fusion dance troupe

Pan-Asian Dance Club PHOTO ESSAY

The Fashion Industry is Praying for you Why is the internet and the industry all in on Catholicism?

Identities by Night PHOTO ESSAY

Astrology in Style: More Than the Sun Sign How understanding astrology could transform your fashion

The WALK Magazine

Spring 2023

The Celestial Issue

Letter from the

THE WALK

WEB FEATURES

editor

SPRING/SUMMER 23

n the Celestial Issue, The WALK team has been following the stars for inspiration. Decked out in silvers and gold, the Spring 2023 issue has been a labour of love and a deep dive into the many meanings of “Celestial”. Stars, moons, and gilded faces have been featured in our photographic stories this semester. Our Starry-Eyed shoot spotlights South Asian women on Penn’s campus and the Celestial theme marries with the ornately beautiful jewellery, embroidered traditional scarves and starry makeup worn by our models. The ethereal gaze of Deepika, Ria, Adya and Arshiya on Page 29, captures our vision of possibility and wonder for the shoot. Celestial’s connection to spirituality has also been important to The WALK’s writers this semester. Liv Yun writes about tarot and its translation into the mainstream, and Abby Portnoy makes a comparison between Vedic and Western Astrology. The study of celestial objects to make predictions about our lives is a long-practised tradition in many cultures - The WALK’s writers have done an amazing job of looking into astrology, tarot and zodiacs and presenting it to our readers. Show business - the stars of the stage and the big screen - has also been a focus for the Spring Issue. Nathan Cronin has written about The Dying Star: the dark underbelly of “Old Hollywood” glamour and glitz. Our Under the Stars shoot - featuring Darya Ameri and Olivia Wendel - also tries to capture the movie star look, but breaks traditional boundaries and adds a naturalistic spin, via our greenhouse location. The Celestial Issue has also tried to capture the idea of nighttime as a solace and a sanctuary. Our Identities by Night shoot is an ode to the drag community and combines the theme of the night with a full-drag look. Starry evenings are the perfect place for full transformation and self-expression. Naya Majeed has written about a different kind of night-time transformation, after speaking with Sarah Williams, the Creative Producer of Opera Philadelphia. Costume design and fearlessness in creation are central to Naya’s close look at the creative process behind dressing the performers and “blazing a path of change” in Opera. Just like the stars work together to light up a dark sky, the magazine couldn’t have come together without the close teamwork (and cherished friendship) of The WALK staff. Every single department has been an inspiration and an enthusiastic source of support. Not to be forgotten, the Pan Asian Dance Troupe have been an amazing student club to work with and we are so excited to spotlight them (and their truly amazing performances) in this issue of the magazine.

I would love to take a moment to shout out the seniors who have been central to the production of The WALK Magazine. Catherine Liu and Mea Ayers (co-directors, Art and Design) have been the vision behind the magazine’s layout, working with the magazine’s tight deadlines and bringing the pages to life. They have worked tirelessly to ensure that each article has had the perfect layout, and are beacons of knowledge on the artistic style of The WALK Magazine. Mea and Catherine both joined the magazine in their Sophomore year. Megha Raman and Connor Brandon are The WALK Magazine’s creative directors. Just flicking through our photoshoots tells you exactly how much care, thought and passion they have put into the magazine. The Starry-Eyed shoot, featuring South Asian models, outfits and celestial-themed makeup has been the shoot Megha has envisioned since joining the team as a styling assistant in her Freshman Fall. The Identities by Night Shoot is a result of hours of effort from Connor, who handcrafted our model’s outfits and created the perfect celestial drag concept. I can’t thank our seniors enough for the effort they have put into The WALK Magazine: you will be missed! The Celestial Issue means so much to our team: it has been an issue of possibility, glamour and experimentation. We hope you enjoy reading it just as much as we enjoyed making it.

All my best,

The WALK Magazine

Spring 2023

Grace Holden (C’24) The Celestial Issue

Letter from the

THE WALK

WEB FEATURES

editor

SPRING/SUMMER 23

All my best,

The WALK Magazine

Spring 2023

Grace Holden (C’24) The Celestial Issue

WHAT’S in the CARDS FOR YOU Tarot has been around for centuries, but now it has catapulted into mainstream culture for the third time. Here’s why.

You’ve probably seen someone shuffling tarot cards online or stumbled upon a psychic shop offering tarot readings; whatever the case, it is clear tarot is taking the world by storm. With increased interest in spirituality and divination, tarot cards have become a source of guidance and aesthetics in pop culture. While tarot originates from the 14th century, interest in occult is phasing in for the third time in history, reflecting instability and unrest in society. According to FourteenEast Mag, tarot cards are used as tools to guide others and help them better understand the surrounding world. The cards contain words, art, and numbers that “serve as symbols for people to interpret and relate to their own lives.” People often turn to tarot for insight on the past, present, or future of their lives and circumstances. A tarot reader will arrange the cards into spreads or pull them from the deck. Each card has different meanings if drawn upright or reversed. For example, a popular card is The Magician, which symbolizes creation and manifestation upright. However, when pulled reversed, it warns the reader of trickery and illusions.

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Spring 2023

Tarot, originally called tarocchi, originates from France and Italy in the mid-1400s. The cards initially did not have any symbolic meaning and were used to play games exclusively by nobility. Artists designed them as the first playing cards with four suits, similar to the standard decks we know today. Tarot did not become a tool for divination until the late sixteenth century, and by t h e eighteenth century, people began assigning meanings to each card. Variations of the cards were present throughout Europe, from Spain to Italy and Germany. The most famous deck of tarot cards are the Major Arcana, which follow the journey of The Fool. The Fool represents humanity’s transformation as he meets teachers and learns life lessons throughout the journey. For instance, The Hermit card of the Major Arcana represents The Fool’s search for the meaning of life and a deeper truth, and The World portrays finding fulfillment and joy. In other words, as stated in Vieux Mode, the Major Arcana cards “tell the story of humanity’s spiritual evolution into enlightenment and individuation.”

Today, tarot has become popular with spirituality and divination. Leading publishers of tarot decks, such as US Game Systems, have reported a steady increase in sales and interest. When the early stages of COVID-19 required isolation, many turned to new methods to care for their mental health. Practices such as working with chakras, yoga, and meditation have catapulted into mainstream culture. While many of these originate from Hinduism or Buddhism, tarot has occult influences that set it apart from typical spiritual practices. However, this resurgence of the occult is nothing new. According to Vox, interest in occult has phased in and out of popularity for centuries, most prom- inently during the Spiritualist movement in the 1800s. The movement was accepted in even the most prestigious environments, one being the White House; in the 1860s, First Lady Mary Todd Lincoln held séances in the White House, in which she attempted to communicate with the deceased. Divination experienced another wave of popularity in the 1960s, often referred to as New Age Spiritualism. As the country experienced unprecedented turmoil with events such as the Vietnam War, many Amercians abandoned traditional re-

ligion and searched for meaning elsewhere, particularly in the form of psychedelics, protests, and non-traditional religions such as the Church of Satan. Now, interest in occult has risen in times of turmoil. As the world witnesses events such as COVID-19 and racial unrest, many have turned to spirituality and divination as a means of navigating the unknown. Without a doubt, tarot has claimed its spot in modern trends and practices. From fashion to mental health care, one can see its presence everywhere, including the resurgence of tarot. Tarot is slowly but surely becoming a source of guidance for others and is a marker of the new cycle of occult in pop culture.

BY LIV YUN ILLUSTRATIONS BY JACKIE HU DESIGN BY CATHERINE LIU

The Celestial Issue

WHAT’S in the CARDS FOR YOU Tarot has been around for centuries, but now it has catapulted into mainstream culture for the third time. Here’s why.

The WALK Magazine

Spring 2023

BY LIV YUN ILLUSTRATIONS BY JACKIE HU DESIGN BY CATHERINE LIU

The Celestial Issue

The DYING Star

THE AESTHETIC OF “OLD HOLLYWOOD” HAS CAPTIVATED AUDIENCES FOR DECADES. ALTHOUGH SEEMINGLY PERFECT, IS THERE DARKNESS THAT LIES BEHIND THIS ERA?

Glamour, elegance, dramatics, and abundance. These words come to mind when we think of the stereotypical categorization of “Old Hollywood.” Celebrities were seen as the ideals of our society. Films covered topics of love, passion, and white picket fences. It was a “simpler” time when the public lens viewed stars as flawless; however, was this lens blurred? Did the general public know what was truly happening behind the scenes? From the 1930s to the 1950s, there was an intense fixation on perfection. Portrayals of drug use, exclusion, sexual assault, and discrimination were often excluded from popular films. This idolization of perfection was almost childlike, where being naive was not looked down upon, but rather encouraged. Such a simplistic view insinuates that if something wasn’t explicitly right in front of our faces, it wasn’t true. It is perfectly acceptable to admire the past, but we must draw a line between admiration and glamorization in Old Hollywood. This admiration is divided among the traits that the Old Hollywood industry abused and exploited.

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Spring 2023

OBEDIENCE YOUTH One of the many appeals of “Old Hollywood” is the youthful perception of actors. Almost every film with a romantic-driven plot included young actors. If actors were older, they tended to play the mother-in-law, maid, or butler, never to be considered for a leading role. Unfortunately, youth praise was a double-edged sword, as actors were either applauded for their adolescence or stripped of roles if they were “too old.” By definition, ageism is the prejudice of a person regarding their age. Ageism has been embedded in Hollywood culture for decades. Joan Crawford and Betty Davis are prime examples of the detriments of ageism. During their primes, Crawford and Davis were the top picks for leading female roles. Despite their fame, their possibilities for roles, over time, drifted from the leading starlet to supporting roles as elderly mothers. Towards the end of their careers, job opportunities became scarce for Crawford and Davis, and they were forced to create their own material. Throughout their professional lives, they were at the mercy of male studio executive Jack Warner, who controlled the casting process with an iron fist (The Hollywood Reporter).

The film industry has an intense power dynamic between actors and directors. Actors are seen as the face, paid to be in front of the screen, while directors make “valid” decisions. In “Old Hollywood,” actors had little to no creative freedom with their projects. Once signed under contract, studio heads had the authority to assign actors to a role they saw best fit. Shirley Temple is perceived today as a joyful, talented girl, although there is a sinister, untold story behind her past. At the

.................................................... ..age of just five, Temple was scouted by Fox Film Corporation. As soon as the young starlet appeared on the screen, she was oversexualized, forced to wear babydoll dresses. There is an infamous scene of grown men in suits passing Temple from lap to lap. She remained still and obedient as men five times her age fondled her. The assault continued off-camera. In 1940, Metro-Goldwyn-Mayer producer Arthur Freed exposed himself to Temple in his office. She was only twelve at the time (Cinemasters). Under contract, Temple was forced to continue with these pictures. Studio heads had complete control over her career trajectory and were significant contributors to the death of her stardom. As she aged, she no longer fit the mold of the young child she once was and was consequently seen as unfit for other roles.

................................................... ..amytal for her struggle with insomnia. She soon received medical assistance to treat her depression and anxiety and was prescribed both morphine and codeine. Monroe’s bedside table was described as a “virtual pharmacopeia” (PBS). Monroe relied heavily upon these drugs throughout her acting career, working late hours and extensive amounts of time. Studio executives were well aware of Monroe’s drug use; however, they continued to ignore her evident signs of addiction, ultimately furthering their exploitation of her beauty and charm. In addition, many of Monroe’s doctors were tied to studio executives who knew the list of medications she was prescribed. On August 5th, 1962, Monroe was found dead in her Brentwood, Los Angeles home from an overdose (PBS). She was only 36.

PURITY

PETITENESS

From the 1930s to the 1950s, drug use was considered taboo, never to be regarded as a mental health issue. It was also presumed that stars would never have such a problem or “dark” desire to delve into an ill minded practice. The general public saw the stars’ masks of happiness, but nothing beneath them. Orphaned at a young age by a mother battling schizophrenia, Marilyn Monroe had a long history of mental health issues and addiction. Monroe was first prescribed

Numerous “Old Hollywood” stars had a petite stature, desired by studio executives and casting directors alike. At the time, a small figure was the epitome of health and beauty. It was common for female stars to have slender figures. It was apparent that the tinier an actress was, the greater her possibility of receiving a leading role. Judy Garland was thrown into the spotlight with the production of The Wizard of Oz. She received praise from numer-

....................................................... ous publications and even won an Academy Juvenile Award; however, her experience behind the scenes was far from glamorous. Although Garland was 16 at the time, filmmakers wanted her to seem childlike. In order to transform Garland, producers put her on a strict diet to achieve this youthful look, allowing her to consume only chicken soup, black coffee, and cigarettes (TheThings). In addition, the cast of The Wizard of Oz was forced to work nearly every hour of the day. Producers recommended pep pills to keep Garland at optimal productivity to keep her energized. Likewise, she was taken to the studio hospital at night, where they would provide sleeping pills when filming had finally wrapped for the day. This concoction of drugs significantly suppressed Garland’s appetite. As a result, she lost considerable weight during the shoot and looked almost prepubescent. Garland’s time on The Wizard of Oz set sent her into her spiraling battle with an eating disorder, contributing to her prescription drug use. Then, in 1969 at age 47, Garland passed away due to an accidental barbiturate overdose (TheThings). Although “Old Hollywood” embodies a simplistic time, significant horrific experiences occurred behind the scenes. Issues in our current society, such as drug use, misogyny, and sexual assault, were still preventable back in “Old Hollywood,” although they are not as widely broadcasted as they are today. One aspect that draws viewers to the ideal of “Old Hollywood” is the idea of the unknown. There is a certain appeal to looking up at the big screen and not seeing the echo of the common issues in viewers’ lives. However, we must recognize that this representation of perfection is not reality. One cannot succumb to the admirable appeal of “Old Hollywood” without acknowledging the issues and horror that happened off-screen.

BY NATHAN CRONIN ILLUSTRATIONS BY ATTICUS LIM DESIGN BY ANTONIA SOLAR

The Celestial Issue

The DYING Star

THE AESTHETIC OF “OLD HOLLYWOOD” HAS CAPTIVATED AUDIENCES FOR DECADES. ALTHOUGH SEEMINGLY PERFECT, IS THERE DARKNESS THAT LIES BEHIND THIS ERA?

The WALK Magazine

Spring 2023

PURITY

PETITENESS

BY NATHAN CRONIN ILLUSTRATIONS BY ATTICUS LIM DESIGN BY ANTONIA SOLAR

The Celestial Issue

UNDER the STARS

The WALK Magazine

Spring 2023

The Celestial Issue

UNDER the STARS

The WALK Magazine

Spring 2023

The Celestial Issue

The WALK Magazine

Spring 2023

The Celestial Issue

The WALK Magazine

Spring 2023

The Celestial Issue

DIRECTED BY CONNOR BRANDON, MEGHA RAMAN, OLIVIA KIM. STYLED BY DYLAN WALKER, SARAH KIM. MODELED BY DARYA AMERI, OLIVIA WENDEL. MAKEUP BY DARYA AMERI, OLIVIA WENDEL. PHOTOGRAPHED BY SARAH YOON, GLORIA LEE . EDITED BY SARAH YOON, GLORIA LEE. DESIGN BY CATHERINE LIU.

The WALK Magazine

Spring 2023

The Celestial Issue

The WALK Magazine

Spring 2023

The Celestial Issue

The WALK Magazine

Spring 2023

The Celestial Issue

The WALK Magazine

Spring 2023

The Celestial Issue

century. However, Beyonce stands in a Burberry co-ord set in front of the painting and the message is clear: she is the ruler, not Napoleon. She is surrounded by people of color contrary to the whiteness that floods the painting. Her designer clothes, elegant jewelry, and posture all drip with regality as she creates her own definition of “celestial”. In front of “Winged Victory of Samothrace,” Beyonce and Jay-Z stand elegantly hand in hand dressed in crisp, all-white ensembles. They stand in front of Nike, the Greek goddess of victory, mimicking the grandiose marble structure’s color. This scene is simple, but incredibly powerful when we consider its role in challenging the typical representation of “celestial.” Two powerful people of color are the goddess and god of victory.

this is what we’re thankful for:

THE NEW CELESTIAL BY SHRITHA MANDAVA DESIGN BY KYUHO LEE

In the “Apeshit” music video, fashion and symbolism play a powerful role in sharing Beyonce and Jay-Z’s reimagination of celestiality in traditional Western art. On June 16th, 2018, The Carters stunned the world with a music video for their new single “Apeshit”, filmed in none other than the most visited museum in the world: The Louvre. The Louvre, formerly a fortress and royal palace, houses some of the world’s most notable works of art, such as Leonardo’s da Vinci’s “Mona Lisa”, Théodore Géricault’s “The Raft of the Medusa”, and many more. Filled with over 400 rooms and 35,000 artworks, the museum walks visitors through countless bits of history, from the French Romanticism and Neoclassicism eras in the infamous Denon wing to the stunning Hellenistic sculptures and Egyptian galleries in the Sully wing. The Louvre is the epitome of celestial. However, “Apeshit” isn’t just about The Louvre. In fact, the setting of this music video is one of many accessories that serve as a vehicle for the true meaning of the song. “Apeshit” is Beyonce and Jay-Z’s rejection of white dominance in Western art and reimagination of what art should have been, had society’s roots not been so deeply obsessed with the color of skin. Beyonce and Jay-Z ultimately redefine “celestial,” in 21st century form, through their fashion and symbolism in this iconic music video.

The WALK Magazine

Spring 2023

Beyonce and Jay-Z’s outfits are carefully crafted and dripping with symbolism in every shot. The starting clip features the couple in vibrant, satin co-ord suits standing in front of none other than the Mona Lisa. The symbolism of both stars in pantsuits is inarguably their assertion that they are equal partners. Even more striking is the choice in color as Beyonce stands in stereotypical pink with Jay-Z in blue. The two stars reject gender stereotypes as they stand equally despite identifying as different genders. Many view the Mona Lisa as its own challenger of Victorian gender stereotypes as a woman is portrayed in a complex, intellectual manner — a rarity in art of this time period. While some of the art featured in “Apeshit” highlights negative aspects of Western art, the Mona Lisa, in all her greatness, hints at progressivity..

The Egyptian Sphinx is one of the most iconic symbols of other worldly power and many Egyptians believed it to be a representation of the solar deity. Beyonce dances confidently in front of The “Great Sphinx of Tanis” in one of the most talked about outfits in the music video. She wears a stunning, custom-made MCM cap, hat, and bodysuit. The warm, tan color of the ensemble can be thought of to resemble the “solar deity” as Beyonce yet again asserts her reclamation of traditional divinity. Beyonce and Jay-Z’s recreation of “Portrait of a Negress” is undoubtedly one of the most important shots in this music video. The eyes immediately fall on Beyonce who sits relaxed in head-to-toe Versace next to Jay-Z’s rather subdued outfit. Pictured here in “Apeshit” is yet another moment where a designer brand indicates regality and elegance. If we reflect on the term “celestial,” we may think of words such as divine, godly, and otherworldly. In the time periods of the art featured in “Apeshit,” the term celestial was often associated with royalty and figures of mythology. However, in our modern world, so much of our perception of celestiality is derived from fashion as we have mostly rid society of such rigid, drastic, and distinguished social structures compared to that of our past. Fashion sees no difference in skin colors. It empowers and allows us to define our own views as The Carters clearly demonstrate in “Apeshit.” As we reflect on this masterpiece, it is clear that music videos can be so much more than accompaniments to songs. The Carters have shown the power of art, history, and fashion in evolving standards and redefining our perception of celestiality

Next, we have Beyonce and her troupe in front of “The Coronation of Napoleon.” There are countless layers to this moment in the video as the painting itself carries much symbolism that Beyonce rewrites. In this masterpiece, Napoleon had taken the crown from the Pope and crowned himself before proceeding to crown the Empress. The Empress is pictured submissively, further enforcing gender stereotypes of the 19th

The Celestial Issue

this is what we’re thankful for:

THE NEW CELESTIAL BY SHRITHA MANDAVA DESIGN BY KYUHO LEE

The WALK Magazine

Spring 2023

The Celestial Issue

RY-EY R A ED ST

The newest eye makeup trends are nothing short of magic. As a beauty enthusiast, nothing makes me happier than discovering a new trend that breaks away from the usual “clean girl” aesthetic, which encourages us to hide any imperfections and strive for an impeccable, put-together look. That’s why I couldn’t help but let out a cheer when I came across celestial eyes, the latest trend taking the beauty space (no pun intended) by storm. Even if the name doesn’t ring a bell, chances are you’ve already seen this stunning look popping up on your social media feed. The focus is on glittery eyeshadow, and the best part? Embracing the fallout— you know, the stubborn remnants laying atop your concealer—something that many of us have been conditioned to avoid. Eyeshadow fallout is now revolutionary thanks to the pioneers of the queer community and the trailblazing makeup artists who have normalized it. With celestial eyes, we’re breaking free from those limiting beliefs and embracing our inner sparkle. This has been the focus of Pat McGrath, a renowned British makeup artist, with her plethora of shimmery palettes, and also of drag queens for ages. Glitter makeup has long been relegated to the world of mainstream celebrations, but it holds a deep and meaningful place in

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queer history. In fact, glitter is closely intertwined with the legacy of queer nightlife and performance art, particularly the art of drag. It can be argued that glitter is almost religious for queer communities, as it offers a way to find radiance in darkness and embrace one’s true colors. By wearing glitter, individuals can signal their queer identities not only to themselves but also to their peers creating a sense of community and connection. Glitter is also a sign of triumph and liberation within the LGBTQ+ community today. It is frequently worn at Pride celebrations and other LGBTQ+ gatherings to express joy and pride in one’s identity as well as to celebrate the community as a whole. The use of glitter by queer individuals can be traced back to the rise of club kids in the 1980s and 1990s. These flamboyant individuals were known for painting their faces with glitter, proudly celebrating their queerness, and rejecting the notion that it should be hidden. Today, the use of glitter is even more prominent within the LGBTQ+ community, with many activists using it as a powerful tool to fight for their rights. One example of this is the Glitter + Ash movement, which has gained popularity in recent years. Churches that participate in this movement mix Ash Wednesday ashes with pur-

ple glitter, showing their support for and solidarity with queer patrons. This unique and striking symbol serves as a reminder that the LGBTQ+ community is a valued and important part of society, deserving of love, acceptance, and equal treatment. No conversation about the use of glitter in makeup would be complete without mentioning McGrath. Known as “Mother” to her fans, she has been a driving force in the beauty industry for decades. Her Mothership eyeshadow palettes have achieved mass popularity, but her impact goes far beyond that. “Push the ideas and then draw a way in,” Pat McGrath once remarked, and now, her resistance and tenacity in filtering into flamboyant aesthetics has allowed her to become one of the world’s most renowned makeup artists. McGrath is the mastermind behind the stunning celestial beauty looks we’ve seen on runways, most notably with her glittery spin on traditional Hollywood glamor at a Valentino couture show. Her long-standing love affair with this sparkly glam has inspired her to push boundaries and explore new possibilities in the world of makeup. She explains, “I’m obsessed with the way glitter moves”. According to the mother herself, with glitter, you can create, “crystal eyes, bejeweled wings and dimensional lips...

so many fabulous looks!” Being the first at something, particularly in the fashion business, matters much more when the pioneer is from a marginalized population, whether it is being from the LGBTQ+ or the Black community. It suggests that someone fostered change in an environment where novelty was neither encouraged nor appreciated. In recent seasons, the fashion industry has experienced all types of blossoming, and once-hushed voices are now being heard through the unfettered use of avant-garde beauty practices, especially glitter. In the end, glitter makeup and its celestial forces may seem like a small and insignificant detail, but its role in queer history and culture is nothing short of a paradigm shift. By using glitter as a tool to express their identities and fight for their rights, queer individuals have cemented this sparkly substance as an important and meaningful part of their community.

BY LUCAS BRIENZA ILLUSTRATIONS BY ELLEN ZHANG DESIGN BY CATHERINE LIU

The Celestial Issue

RY-EY R A ED ST

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Spring 2023

BY LUCAS BRIENZA ILLUSTRATIONS BY ELLEN ZHANG DESIGN BY CATHERINE LIU

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comparing

VEDIC and WESTERN ASTROLOGY How are the two astrological systems different, and where do you fall within them?

What’s your daily horoscope sign? You most likely thought of an answer based on your zodiac from Western astrology, but there are many other star systems out there. One example of this is Vedic, or Indian, astrology. Vedic astrology, sometimes referred to as Jyotish, is an ancient astrology system dating back over 5,000 years. In its early years, it was mainly used to determine important dates for sacrifices and rituals. However, as people began studying its planetary movements to understand their life path and destiny, Vedic astrology became more personalized. Now, it is based on karma and reincarnation and is used as an insightful method to think about one’s future. Vedic astrology is based on the four main elements: water, fire, earth and air. There are also four main goals of human life: karma (pleasure), dharma (righteousness), artha (material wealth) and moksha (liberation). The goal of Vedic astrology is to better understand our life path and destiny.

How does Vedic astrology differ from Western astrology? SIGNS Both Western and Vedic astrology have 12 signs: Aries/Mesha, Taurus/Vrishabha, Gemini/Mithun, Cancer/Karka, Leo/ Simha, Virgo/Kanya, Libra/Tula, Scorpio/ Vrischika, Sagittarius/Dhanus, Capricorn/ Makara, Aquarius/Kumbha and Pisces/ Meena. While the names are shared between the two astrological systems, the dates differ slightly. Also, Vedic astrology

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places a higher significance on the rising sign than Western, which prioritizes the sun sign.

CALENDARS Vedic astrology is based on the sidereal system, which calculates the position of planets based on where they are observed in relation to constellations. However, Western astrology centers around the four seasons and the tropical calendar which is more of a fixed system. Western astrology focuses on the immediate solar system, while Vedic astrology accounts for other parts of our galaxy making Western astrology align with the Sun and Vedic astrology align with the Moon.

BIRTH CHARTS The birth charts of Vedic and Western astrology differ in the way they are divided. In Vedic astrology, the birth chart is generally a square divided into 12 sections. Meanwhile, in Western astrology, the birth chart is a circle that displays the houses and signs counterclockwise.

HOUSES There are both similarities and differences in the way that Vedic and Western astrology think about houses. Both astrological systems believe that we are defined by our ascendant house, which is the zodiac

rising in the east during our birth. Vedic and Western astrology define each house by equal 2-hour periods of the Earth’s 24hour rotation around its axis. This is why it’s so important to use your birth time when calculating your chart. Houses govern a specific component of your life, such as the way you perceive yourself or your health and wellness, and correspond to a different sign. However, houses are not the same as zodiac signs. In Vedic astrology, each sun sign is matched with a planet. The planet’s qualities and the qualities of a person with a given sun sign should match up and allow you to evaluate whether your Vedic sun sign truly matches who you are.

Sun in Aries Meshna Apr 14 – May 14 You jump in the deep end and don’t look back or overthink things; you’re courageous and ambitious. You take responsibility for others, making you very compassionate. However, you are more easily angered and irritated than other sun signs. You’re not one to mess with, but your power fuels your natural leadership skills.

MARS: Mars gives off fiery, loud ener-

gy. The sign ruled by Mars energy is often stubborn and unwilling to back down from a fight. This planet represents impulse, instinct, passion and competition.

Sun in Taurus Vrishna May 15 – Jun 14 You are very sociable and outgoing because you have a naturally open mindset. You are determined to achieve your goals and are stubborn in the sense that you won’t stop until you get what you want. Many of your actions are driven by emotions, so it’s important to be extra careful when making decisions that could potentially impact others.

VENUS: Venus represents relationships, love, and attraction. It explains the importance of touch in the sign it is associated with and tends to correlate with a person who is emotional and sensual. The sign Venus represents is very feminine as the planet determines a woman’s view of femininity and how one’s feminine qualities are expressed.

Sun in Gemini Mithuna Jun 15 – Jul 14 You have very strong interpersonal and communication skills. You’re easy to talk to, and in awkward situations, you’re able to lighten the mood and make it more comfortable for yourself and others involved. You love a challenge and enjoy being around people who are intellectual like you. MERCURY: Mercury is all about communication style and influences the way that you express yourself. It affects how you text, whether you’re a planner or a go-with-the-flow type of person, and what types of articles you spend your time reading. Mercury was known to be in two different worlds: the underworld and the physical world. This explains the wittiness and intellect behind the sign you’re associated with.

Sun in Cancer Karaka Jul 15 – Aug 16 You understand your emotions very well and are not afraid to share them with others. You are very reliable, consistent and caring. Sometimes you get overwhelmed by too many emotions and do not know where to turn next because you struggle to follow your instincts. In situations like these, remember that your intuition is powerful.

MOON: The Moon represents a very

close relationship with emotions and is associated with an empathetic and emotional sign. Similarly to how the Moon affects the ocean tides, the Moon’s associated sun sign can feel others’ emotions and react appropriately.

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comparing

VEDIC and WESTERN ASTROLOGY How are the two astrological systems different, and where do you fall within them?

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places a higher significance on the rising sign than Western, which prioritizes the sun sign.

MARS: Mars gives off fiery, loud ener-

gy. The sign ruled by Mars energy is often stubborn and unwilling to back down from a fight. This planet represents impulse, instinct, passion and competition.

MOON: The Moon represents a very

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Sun in Sagittarius Dhanus Dec 15 – Jan 13

Sun in Leo Simha Aug 16 – Sep 15 You’re very set on winning, therefore you can be an aggressive leader. You’re the most courageous out of all of the signs. You love the spotlight and when people pay attention to you, but it’s important for you to be mindful and allow others to take the spotlight sometimes. You’re a person others can always count on because you stick to your morals and beliefs and are confident in speaking up when something is not right.

SUN: This sign loves to be the center of

attention, just like the Sun is the center of our solar system. The Sun’s associated sign is usually the life of the party and represents someone with a fiery personality.

Sun in Virgo Kanya Sep 16 – Oct 15 Your desire to learn is very strong and you perform well in school. You are a logical thinker which makes it easier for you to make well-thought-out decisions. You rarely have stage fright, instead, you love entertaining crowds and are a strong public speaker. You are good at respecting others’ boundaries.

MERCURY: Mercury represents a sign that is very pragmatic, logical, and detail-oriented. As explained above, under “Sun in Gemini,” Mercury affects the way one communicates their thoughts, emotions, and ideas and is associated with an intellectual sign.

Your compassion drives you to make sure everyone around you is having a good time and enjoying themselves. You like to adventure and seek out new, exciting opportunities. You love to think about the future, so sometimes you miss out on living in the moment.

JUPITER: Jupiter strived to stay at

Sun in Libra Tula Oct 16 – Nov 14 You are not very good at decision-making and may struggle with internal conflicts. You like to be surrounded by others, and many Libras like you are serial daters. However, you try to remain diplomatic and open-minded, which may cause you to over-fixate on small details. Your sign is moveable, meaning that you are easily able to influence others and help others calm down when needed.

VENUS: Because Venus is associated

with romance and love, the sign that is ruled by Venus tends to dislike being alone and strives for fairness.

Sun in Scorpio Vrishchika Nov 15 – Dec 14 You have a very compassionate nature, which allows you to almost have a psychic influence over others. At the same time, your friends are intrigued by you and have many questions about your mysterious personality. You can often turn discussions into arguments because you are detail-oriented and very skilled in debating, allowing you to closely listen to your counterparts’ words.

PLUTO: Pluto represents growth and transformation. Because there is still much to discover about Pluto, it is often associated with a passionate, yet mysterious person. 26

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the head of the Pantheon and was very goal-oriented. The ruling planet represents luck and success and is associated with a sign that is optimistic and interested in exploring.

Sun in Capricorn Makara Jan 14 – Feb 11 You are very patient and like to make sure that each move you make is calculated. You are usually serious and committed and you welcome competition, which occasionally causes you to forget to just have fun.

SATURN: Saturn was very stubborn

throughout their life. Therefore, this sign represents a serious person who often expects the worst. The Saturn sign determines what restrictions you set for yourself and how you set your personal boundaries.

Sun in Aquarius Kumbha Feb 12 – Mar 12 You are a contemplator, which drives you to have eccentric, unique thoughts. You are charming and people are drawn to you because of your sociable, friendly personality. You love working on a team and are always willing to make sacrifices for others, which occasionally causes your personal happiness to suffer.

URANUS:

Uranus represents deep-thinkers that are very accepting of people they meet. This ruling planet represents freedom, and if your sign is ruled by this planet, you tend to lean into your unique, other-worldly interests.

Sun in Pisces Meena Mar 13 – Apr 12 You are the popular kid in the groups you’re surrounded by. You tend to trust your instincts which allows you to be very adaptable in new situations. People perceive you to have everything together, but sometimes you struggle to identify who you really are and what drives you.

NEPTUNE: Neptune is the planet of in-

spiration and creativity. It also represents intuition and spirituality. The sign it represents has a bright outlook on life and forms good emotional connections with others.

BY ABBY PORTNOY ILLUSTRATIONS BY INSIA HAQUE DESIGN BY CATHERINE LIU

The Celestial Issue

Sun in Sagittarius Dhanus Dec 15 – Jan 13

SUN: This sign loves to be the center of

attention, just like the Sun is the center of our solar system. The Sun’s associated sign is usually the life of the party and represents someone with a fiery personality.

JUPITER: Jupiter strived to stay at

VENUS: Because Venus is associated

with romance and love, the sign that is ruled by Venus tends to dislike being alone and strives for fairness.

PLUTO: Pluto represents growth and transformation. Because there is still much to discover about Pluto, it is often associated with a passionate, yet mysterious person. 26

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the head of the Pantheon and was very goal-oriented. The ruling planet represents luck and success and is associated with a sign that is optimistic and interested in exploring.

SATURN: Saturn was very stubborn

URANUS:

NEPTUNE: Neptune is the planet of in-

spiration and creativity. It also represents intuition and spirituality. The sign it represents has a bright outlook on life and forms good emotional connections with others.

BY ABBY PORTNOY ILLUSTRATIONS BY INSIA HAQUE DESIGN BY CATHERINE LIU

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STARRY-EYED

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STARRY-EYED

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DIRECTED BY MEGHA RAMAN, CONNOR BRANDON, OLIVIA KIM. STYLED BY MEGHA RAMAN. MAKEUP BY RIYA SINHA, DARYA AMERI, ADYA GUPTA, OLIVIA WENDEL. MODELED BY ARSHIYA SINGH, RIA SARASWAT, ADYA GUPTA, DEEPIKA KANNAN. PHOTOGRAPHED BY SARAH YOON, JASMINE SUN. EDITED BY SARAH YOON, JASMINE SUN. DESIGN BY CATHERINE LIU. 30

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INSIDE EUPHORIA’S CLOSET

How costume designer Heidi Bivens created an impact on the fashion industry and costume teams through her work with Euphoria Centered on a group of high schoolers, Euphoria is acclaimed for its powerful storytelling, famous actors, and explicit messaging about drug and alcohol addiction. In addition, the HBO series is primarily known for its impact on viewers’ fashion and style. After the show aired in June of 2019, teens and young adults took inspiration from the characters, and Euphoria became its own aesthetic. Unlike with other teen television series, the fashion industry embraced Euphoria and its creative contributions. So how did the costume design team cultivate such identifiable and vastly admired looks that still arise in everyday styles? Heidi Bivens, Euphoria’s costume designer, created distinct styles for each character, adding an entirely new immersive element to the plot. She ensured that each character had their own wardrobe reflective of their journeys throughout the series. From Rue’s maroon hoodie that once belonged to her deceased father to Maddy’s collection of vintage fashion staples, Bivens dresses the characters with unparalleled attention to detail. In a way, the characters’ styles become a window into their narrative, highlighting their personalities and uniqueness.

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By assigning each character their own distinct wardrobe, Bivens associates moods and characteristics with specific aesthetics. In Season 1, we see Jules, played by Hunter Schafer, wearing vibrant colors, pastels, lots of patterns and Y2K-inspired looks. At this point in her journey, Jules is happy and excited about her new arrival in the city. Bivens dresses Jules in many layers, oftentimes using mesh undershirts or long sleeves. Perhaps Bivens’ use of layers alludes to the many complexities of Jules and her background. At this point in Season 1, we don’t know much about Jules, other than her radiant personality. When a t-shirt is worn over a long sleeve shirt, there are only some visible parts of the longsleeve, yet we know it is there. This type of stylistic layering may symbolize Jules’ depth. We see there are complexities to her personality hidden under her vibrant energy, but we cannot see the entirety of her depth. While the complexity of Jules is mostly hidden, like a long sleeve underneath a t-shirt, Rue’s complex drug addiction issue is visible through her style. Rue, played by Zendaya, wears dull colors, baggy clothes, and hardly changes her attire when

enduring a difficult challenge in her addiction. As previously mentioned, Rue often wears the maroon hoodie that once belonged to her father, before he passed away when she was 14 years old. The hoodie is Rue’s item of comfort; she wears it in nearly every episode. But, the hoodie is also symbolic of her trauma from her father’s death, the main instigator of her addiction. When Rue suffers through relapse or moments of desperation, the maroon hoodie reappears, reminding us that her trauma fuels her addiction. Bivens uses the maroon hoodie to reveal Rue’s complex relationship with drugs and alcohol while Jules’ layered clothes symbolize the complexities she has yet to reveal about herself. While the styles of Rue and Jules emphasize their different relationships to complex experiences in their lives, the wardrobes of Cassie and Maddy may reveal their sense of self identity. In Season 2, Cassie, played by Sydney Sweeney, is trying to balance her desire to stay single with her constant longing to be loved. She wants to feel innocent and yet appear sexy. Bivens portrays Cassie’s internal conflict by dressing her in tight silhouettes or youthful pastel colors. At no point do we see a clear style from Cassie, unlike many of the other characters in Season 2. In an interview with Vogue, Bivens says, “I think what you see her trying to emulate is what she wishes she was, and so, more than a lot of the other characters, I feel like Cassie’s clothes are a costume.” Bivens dresses Cassie with a lack of consistency or pattern, emphasizing Cassie’s efforts in discovering who she is and who she wants to become. In Season 2 we see Maddy, played by Alexa Demie, wear a darker, sultrier, and more sophisticated wardrobe than her playful aesthetic in Season 1. Bivens alters Maddy’s style in such a way to show her maturity and newfound sense of self-identity. For the first time in the series, Maddy is not with her toxic boyfriend, Nate. She spends time for herself,

doing things to make her happy, including her new job as a nanny. One evening while she’s at work, she wanders into the closet of the woman she nannies for. There were shelves of classy purses, gorgeous high heels lined up against the wall, and racks of vintage gowns. We see a montage as Maddy dresses herself with all of the closet’s luxuries and poses for herself in the mirror. In this scene, we see Maddy dress as who she wants to become while celebrating her timeless beauty, highlighting both her confidence and ambition. Bivens’ devotion to rich detail and creativity is what creates the identifiable and unique wardrobes of each character in Euphoria. While this analysis focuses on Rue’s and Jules’ relationships to complex emotions and Cassie’s and Maddy’s perceptions of their self-identity, the wardrobes in Euphoria are an unparalleled display of how costumes can elevate all other aspects of film. Bivens enriches the wardrobes of each character with symbolism, foreshadowing, and immersive features, adding to the entire experience of processing Euphoria. The Euphoria team is currently working on production for Season 3 and it has been released that there is a new head designer replacing Bivens. It will be interesting to see how this change affects the worlds of Rue, Jules, Cassie, and Maddy, especially as the characters are entering a more mature stage of their life and may be expected to dress differently. Despite her leave, Bivens’ work has created a lasting impact on costume teams in the entertainment industry and will likely remain the golden standard for years to come.

BY LIBBY COLLINS ILLUSTRATION BY CATHERINE LIU DESIGN BY ANTONIA SOLAR

The Celestial Issue

INSIDE EUPHORIA’S CLOSET

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BY LIBBY COLLINS ILLUSTRATION BY CATHERINE LIU DESIGN BY ANTONIA SOLAR

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BY NAYA MA JEED ILLUSTRATION BY CATHERINE LIU DESIGN BY LOUISE WANG/CATHERINE LIU

COSTUME OVERTURE A look into the making of a show with Opera Philadelphia’s costume director and creative producer. Classical art forms, such as ballet and opera, have been an exclusive sphere since inception. For many years, they were reserved for select groups of people and passed down through lineage. This reputation prevails in the 21st century. However, thanks to the likes of Opera Philadelphia and other pioneering arts-focused companies, we’re starting to see the walls once built around these spaces open to more people at its door. Sarah Williams, the Director of New Works and Creative Producer of Opera Philadelphia, has developed the company’s new works practice through the introduction of new operas and the reworking of favorite classics. She is no stranger to the stage; coming from a vocal performance and music conservatory background, Sarah knows the ins and outs of the wings and is able to bring her past experiences to the forefront. Overall, she aims to create an inclusive environment that allows people from all backgrounds to be involved in the arts. When choosing new works to commission, she searches through multiple submissions received daily and seeks out lesser-known artists who may be interested in writing an opera. She’s not interested in defining opera for someone else, but in understanding individual spectators’ experience of one. The biggest question for her is: “Can our company support the artist and their vision?”

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At Opera Philadelphia, that vision is one of the most forward-looking in the country. The company acknowledges opera’s exclusionary past and uses this to blaze a path of change. By providing opportunities for people to work backstage, those in the audience can see their stories told onstage. For Sarah, it’s not just about who is playing the character, but who is the character, and what is their story? Who’s working behind the scenes? Is the audience represented even if they can’t see everyone involved? Once a piece is commissioned, Sarah starts to slowly

Semele by Composer George Frideric Handel, Director James Darrah, and Costume Designer Sarah Schuessler. Image courtesy of Opera Philadelphia.

bring in other departments. It is a highly collaborative process, and when the time comes for her to find a director, “it’s not the right director, it’s more about the director who augments the vision,” she says. Every person is a piece of a puzzle, and it is about creating a team that works well together, from production to lighting to set. Costume Director Millie Hiibel also comes from a creative background, possessing the skill to sew and a natural talent for drawing. After pursuing her MFA at Temple University, where she assisted the previous costume director at Opera Philadelphia, she worked as a freelance costume designer for a decade before joining the company in her current role. Opera Philadelphia is putting on La Bohème the next month, and when I visited the costume shop, it was calm and peaceful—a place for an artist to be alone with their work. It’s not until the final weeks before the show where everything is tied together thanks to the weeks of planning beforehand. Yet walking around was exhilarating; one can only imagine the magic soon to happen in the shop full of mannequins, colorful fabrics, and workstations galore. As Millie led me to the other side of the shop, my eyes landed upon a goldhued suit adorned with gems. It was incredible to think about how it started as a paper pattern, then turned into a muslin mock-up, before reaching its final form for a production. However, the life of a piece spans far beyond the show it

was created for; opera companies occasionally loan costume sets to each other, ensuring many more audiences have the chance to enjoy these works of art. Millie has a hand in all of the operations of the department, from tailoring to costume fittings to managing rentals. She also frequents New York for fabric shopping and planning for the seasons ahead, which typically happens twelve to eighteen months before a show. Opera is more music-based compared to theater productions, and she says, “I love just being able to underscore the music and [its] power with costumes that are theatrical, and that have their own passion and drama.” For anyone interested in the arts, Sarah and Millie’s biggest pieces of advice are always to be fearless and inspired. When bringing characters to life through costuming, have knowledge of other forms of art and the world. What inspiration can you bring from these avenues into your work? And by always seeking to learn and grow, let the journey take you through highs and lows. Sarah spoke passionately of how much we can gain from failure: it’s how we build our artistry and our voice to create opportunities where they may not exist. Art is an unknown path, but through the work of companies like Opera Philadelphia, more people can get a foot on its pavement. “There is a fearlessness in being an artist,” says Sarah, and this courage to create, write, and produce art is what continues to push opera and other art forms to where they are today and where they will be tomorrow. And after my look into life backstage, I am excited to see what curtains will open next.

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BY NAYA MA JEED ILLUSTRATION BY CATHERINE LIU DESIGN BY LOUISE WANG/CATHERINE LIU

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Semele by Composer George Frideric Handel, Director James Darrah, and Costume Designer Sarah Schuessler. Image courtesy of Opera Philadelphia.

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PAN-ASIAN DANCE TROUPE: MAKING LEAPS Vibrant choreography, sold-out shows, and the people behind it all BY ADELYN CHEN DESIGN BY CLAIRE REDMER

mong Penn’s wealth of performing arts groups is the Pan-Asian Dance Troupe, a community of thirty students dedicated to learning and performing various forms of Asian dance. Each year, the troupe recruits six to eight new dancers over several days of auditions. These new members, affectionately termed “newbies” by the upperclassmen, often have varying levels of mastery, ranging from routine performers to beginners, and the class trains together in workshops hosted by the troupe’s very own senior members. Throughout the fall, dancers work tirelessly to choreograph, rehearse, and coordinate dances, and the efforts culminate in an annual show held in February. Though newbies are recruited in the fall, show planning begins much earlier. In April, the freshmen, sophomores, and juniors start to brainstorm themes for the next show, kept under wraps as a surprise to that year’s seniors, many of whom return to campus to watch the following year’s show (and, in some cases, join onstage). Choreography is tailored toward the theme; once dancers have decided on how many numbers they want to participate in, they attend weekly one-hour rehearsals for each number. By January, all choreography is in place, and the members devote time to lighting, sound,

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and polishing their routines, setting the stage for the show. The February 2022 show staged by PADT marked their first in-person performance following the COVID-19 pandemic, and putting it on was no easy feat. By the time Penn reopened in-person classes, many of the upperclassmen who were familiar with planning the show had graduated. Pioneering the return to normalcy was left in the hands of dancers with limited experience in showrunning. “We weren’t in leadership positions when we were in freshman year, so we didn’t experience Pan-Asian from that lens. But as [upperclassmen], we’re in charge of planning the events, so it was our job to try to recuperate as many traditions as possible without even having experience,” says current President Audrey Hsu, now a senior. “It was definitely really tough to ask around with alumni, because we never experienced a normal April month. But I think we were able to make it work.” Despite small hiccups in production for the 2022 show, the troupe made several improvements and put on a magnificent performance this past February. Justin Chu ‘24, who was Show Chair for this academic year, notes: “Being show chair was stressful. I have at least fifteen different people I was coordinating with to be ushers, photographers, lighting, stage managers… and there are a lot more practices leading up to the show. It’s game time, right? But come show day, oh my god, it was so worth it.” The rest of the troupe shares Chu’s love of the show. “Show is truly so surreal,” says Hsu. “I choreographed two pieces this year, and it was just really great to see those come to life.” For her final show, Hsu choreographed a Korean ethnic number as well as a water sleeves number, involving mesmerizing movement of long sleeves. Her sentiments are echoed by Chu, who drew on his martial arts background to choreograph

a number with a fight scene, and Vice President External Angelina Yu ‘25, who worked alongside another member to choreograph a traditional Dai Peacock dance. “It really felt like pieces falling into place,” Yu says of this year’s show. PADT takes on a unique role of integrating dance styles from many different Asian cultures, nurturing dancers’ creative freedom and appreciating their cultural diversity. “We’re constantly challenging ourselves to learn new styles of Asian cultural dance, whether it be Chinese traditional, or Mongolian, Tibetan, Korean, or Japanese,” Yu notes. “I think there’s a constant urge and a need for us to keep growing.” But even outside of rehearsal, the Pan-Asian Dance Troupe continues to excel; its particularly tight-knit culture is unlike that of any other student organization on Penn’s campus. Beyond dancing together, troupe members socialize through karaoke at Ken’s, Thanksgiving cook-offs, Spring Break trips, and more. Hsu’s own favorite part about PADT is everyone’s unwavering dedication, which makes her job as President much easier. The fiery passion and troupe-wide love propels the team forward, and makes everyone’s experience even more fruitful.

“We really enjoy spending time with each other,” Chu says of the team. “And [the troupe] is something that we all really want to contribute towards. It’s like, we owe it to each other and ourselves to try and be the best that we can.” Although it is one of the defining aspects of the troupe, the inseparable community takes most members by surprise. Yu, having grown up in New Jersey and primarily practiced Western dance styles, found the culture of PADT to be markedly different from her previous experiences: “[Back then], it was very company-esque. We were all really coworkers—we showed up, we did well for the sake of the piece, and then we left. But in Pan-Asian, it really does feel like we’re dancing in a way for each other.” Pan-Asian’s culture is one of its greatest strengths, and exemplifies the power of a shared passion for art. The troupe’s dedication to cultural appreciation, hard work, and camaraderie enable them to produce stunning performances. Their horizons are bright and promising, and it’s no doubt that they will continue to break barriers with innovative, dynamic shows, captivating audiences for years to come.

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PAN-ASIAN DANCE TROUPE: MAKING LEAPS Vibrant choreography, sold-out shows, and the people behind it all BY ADELYN CHEN DESIGN BY CLAIRE REDMER

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PAN-ASIAN DANCE TROUPE

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MODELED BY THE PAN-ASIAN DANCE TROUPE. PHOTOGRAPHED BY INTEL CHEN, SARAH YOON, PRIYA BHAVIKATTI. EDITED BY INTEL CHEN, SARAH YOON PRIYA BHAVIKATTI. DESIGN BY CATHERINE LIU

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Spring 2023

The Celestial Issue

MODELED BY THE PAN-ASIAN DANCE TROUPE. PHOTOGRAPHED BY INTEL CHEN, SARAH YOON, PRIYA BHAVIKATTI. EDITED BY INTEL CHEN, SARAH YOON PRIYA BHAVIKATTI. DESIGN BY CATHERINE LIU

The WALK Magazine

Spring 2023

The Celestial Issue

The WALK Magazine

Spring 2023

The Celestial Issue

The WALK Magazine

Spring 2023

The Celestial Issue

the

Fashion Industry is Praying For You

Catholicism has always inspired art, music, and popular culture, but why is it blowing up the fashion world now?

Fire and brimstone: that’s what popular content creator Addison Rae received from her followers in August when she posted a picture of herself in the brand Praying’s new white bikini, which has the words “Father” and “Son” on either breast. It didn’t take long for the internet to cast Addison Rae into hell. Her comments were besieged for weeks with people accusing her of everything from heresy to plain old disrespect. The post was soon deleted. While this may seem like an obvious wrongdoing for those not ingrained in fashion discourse, the fashion choice may not be as odd as it seems. But considering that blasphemy chic has picked up quite a following recently, the backlash was surprising. We had Christianitycore in music (Ethel Cain’s southern goth album Preacher’s Daughter) and in movies (heretical queer nuns in Benedetta). We especially have it in the fashion industry. Rihanna paired vintage crosses with most of her maternity looks, whether it was multicolored beads and crucifixes hanging out from a pink Chanel jacket or silver chains and crosses on a sheer black statement dress. And she’s not the only celebrity to look straight out of bible camp. Kourtney Kardashian was married in true Italian Catholic style, and the Dolce&Gabbana-styled wedding dressed several members of the family in vintage cross pendants. The Italian Catholic aesthetic

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Spring 2023

comes from mostly Catholic designers, like Gianni and Donatella Versace, and brands like Dolce & Gabbana, who deck out their work in ecclesiastical motifs and Byzantine-esque beadwork as another nod to Catholic heritage. However, the peak of these trends comes earlier. While religious iconography—like the cross—has always been popular in certain fashion circles like the grunge crowd, this aesthetic was popularized by the fashion world in 2018. That year on fashion’s biggest night, the illustrious Met Gala, the theme was “Heavenly Bodies: Fashion and the Catholic Imagination”. Baptized in head to toe crystals and pearls, Rihanna came in full papal regalia by Maison Margiela. Chadwick Boseman and Zendaya arrived in regal Versace, him adorned with shining gold crosses, her channeling one of Catholicism’s most famous saints as a modern Joan of Arc in chainmail and silver plates. Ariana Grande appeared in show stopping Vera Wang that reproduced the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel. In 2019, Alexander Haddad and Skylar Newman launched the brand Praying. Known best for their provocative ‘Holy Trinity’ bikini that sparked a thousand Addison Rae hate tweets, and a cheeky ‘God’s Favorite’ purse, carried by celebrities like Rosalía and Olivia Rodrigo. Other brands have followed; Vera

Wang, Prada, and Versace all have noted Christian influences and the buzzy new label Mirror Palais has mined Catholic aesthetics for inspiration. Catholic schoolgirl core is big on social media, and naturally so is Catholiccore. This feels natural in some ways. Catholicism is a theatrical denomination, one that conjures soaring cathedral ceilings, epic choral chants, and a flashy, bejeweled papal robe. It’s also a spiritual aesthetic to a religious movement that approximates heavenly and spiritual godliness with physical beauty. Usually, when Catholicism makes it mainstream in the secular world, it’s something transgressive: think Madonna’s Like A Prayer, or Lil Nas X’s Call Me By Your Name music video. The Catholic aesthetic is ripe for repurposing, but also controversial. The juxtaposition in the fashion world of making traditionally holy objects edgy and modern is not necessarily a comfortable one. However, with US church membership continuing to decline, do symbols of Catholicism still hold the same weight? Are they a true source of spiritual comfort? Christian ideology feels like it’s in the news cycle more often when it’s used to justify political action like the overturning of Roe v. Wade, or gender protections. Maybe a “Praying” bikini is really a sign of political resistance. This is something Lynn S. Neal, professor of religious studies at Wake Forest University argues in an interview with Megan

Wallace: “Using the symbols of Christianity and inverting them, challenging them, or putting them on a thong or a bikini is a way to challenge people you disagree with.” At the press preview for the Heavenly Bodies Exhibit at the Met, Cardinal Timothy Dolan referred to the “goodness, beauty, and truth” of Catholicism. The story that this aesthetic tells us conflates beauty with truth, spiritualism, and morality. This is the story of the Catholic imagination, and while there is real power and beauty in that narrative, this aesthetic also equally conflates beauty with power. The 2018 Met Gala, the nexus of this trend, is the most high-capitalist, exclusive, and consumerist fashion event of the year. Christianity is a powerful institution, and the fashion world’s interest in it rides the line between establishment and subversion. Ultimately, the lifespan of Catholic influence in fashion will come down to who wants to wear it. Catholicism is a multifaceted identity that means many different things to many different people. The Kardashian’s semi-sincere but kitschy use of Christianity in fashion is distinct from the iconoclasm of Lil Nas X and the provocative products of Praying and the Gossip Girl-esque Catholic schoolgirl social media trends. Some people will wear a bikini with the Holy Trinity because it’s provocative and indulgent. Others will wear a cross necklace or a dress printed with angels because it will make them feel more powerful or spiritually connected. And some people might just find a cross necklace beautiful.

BY CATHERINE SORRENTINO DESIGN BY CATHERINE LIU The Celestial Issue

the

Fashion Industry is Praying For You

Catholicism has always inspired art, music, and popular culture, but why is it blowing up the fashion world now?

The WALK Magazine

Spring 2023

BY CATHERINE SORRENTINO DESIGN BY CATHERINE LIU The Celestial Issue

Identities by Night

STYLED BY MEGHA RAMAN, CONNOR BRANDON, AUDREY HSU. MAKEUP BY RIYA SINHA, ADYA GUPTA. MODELED BY MARCUS RAMIREZ. PHOTOGRAPHED BY AMANDA HERRERA, GIULIANA ALLEVA . EDITED BY AMANDA HERRERA, GIULIANA ALLEVA . DESIGN BY CATHERINE LIU. 52

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The Celestial Issue

Identities by Night

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Spring 2023

The Celestial Issue

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The Celestial Issue

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Spring 2023

The Celestial Issue

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Spring 2023

The Celestial Issue

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Spring 2023

The Celestial Issue

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The Celestial Issue

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The Celestial Issue

Astrology in Style:

MORE THAN THE SUN SIGN

Gemini: mutable air Symbol: the twins, represents versatility and curiosity. Notable Aries Ascendant: Lady Gaga Notable Aries Venus: Margot Robbie

WHAT’S YOUR SIGN, AND WHAT DOES IT MEAN FOR YOUR CLOSET? Astrology is an entertaining pop culture tool to categorize and explain why people are the way they are. It’s common for horoscopes to end up in newspapers, and popular fashion blogs or magazines. But these popular media outlets lack a deeper understanding of astrology and the impact of astrological placements. One’s birth or natal chart, a circular map of where the planets were at the time that someone was born, is unique to each individual,and can tell us much more about a person than their “sun sign”.

In astrology, one’s style and fashion sensibilities are more strongly determined by two other astrological placements: the Ascendant, or rising sign, and the Venus sign. The Ascendant represents a person’s outward personality and relation to life, while Venus represents love and beauty. The guide below shares common themes in these two placements in every sign. Understanding these placements can allow us to interpret our birth chart and meaningfully connect it to our everyday life.

Aries: cardinal fire

Taurus: fixed earth Symbol: the bull, representing security and beauty. Notable Taurus Ascendant: Gigi Hadid Notable Aries Venus: Ariana Grande Venus rules over two signs, one of which is Taurus—representing the feminine side of Venus. Venus is at home in Taurus. People with a Taurus Venus or Ascendant are the pinnacle of bougie and polished when it comes to their style. Famous Taurus Venus people include Ariana Grande, Cillian Murphy, Pedro Pascal, and Idina Menzel. Famous Taurus Ascendants include Gigi Hadid, Miley Cyrus, and Mariah Carey.

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Symbol: the crab, representing the mother and familial love. Notable Taurus Ascendant: Meghan Markle Notable Aries Venus: Natalie Portman Cancer Venuses and Ascendants have a style that embraces being traditional and timeless. Cancer in either of these two placements may feel comfortable in one style or with certain pieces (like a family heirloom necklace) rather than always changing their look. They may have a romantic and vintage look to their style. Celebrities with their Venus in cancer include Natalie Portman, Idris Elba, and Devon Aoki. Some celebrities with their Ascendant in Cancer include Meghan Markle, Angelina Jolie, and Cher.

Symbol: the ram, representing a youthful energy and fighting spirit. Notable Aries Ascendant: Rihanna Notable Aries Venus: Marilyn Monroe Aries Venus and Aries Ascendant are passionate placements and when it comes to how they style themselves, it makes a statement. Famous Venus-in-Aries people include Audrey Hepburn and Marilyn Monroe. One celebrity with their Ascendant in Aries placement is Rihanna. She exemplifies the trailblazer energy of Aries risings, especially when it comes to her personal style as well as her beauty and fashion brand, Fenty.

Cancer: cardinal water

Gemini Venuses and Ascendants choose not to let one aesthetic define their closet! They blend perfectly with the maximalist nature of 2020s fashion. They always want to try something new and experiment with different styles and makeup. Famous Gemini Venus people include Jaden Smith and Margot Robbie. Famous Gemini Risings include Lady Gaga and Amy Winehouse.

Leo: fixed fire Symbol: The lion, representing innate creativity and a leader-like nature. Notable Aries Ascendant: Selena Gomez Notable Aries Venus: Emily Ratajkowski Leo Venuses and Ascendants make their presence known. They have a style that captures everyone’s attention. They likely have big hair and a vibrant personality to complement their style. These placements are dramatic and extravagant in their fashion. Famous Leo Venus people include Emily Ratajkowski and Salma Hayek. Some famous Leo risings include Selena Gomez and Marilyn Monroe.

The Celestial Issue

Astrology in Style:

MORE THAN THE SUN SIGN

Gemini: mutable air Symbol: the twins, represents versatility and curiosity. Notable Aries Ascendant: Lady Gaga Notable Aries Venus: Margot Robbie

Aries: cardinal fire

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Spring 2023

Cancer: cardinal water

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Virgo: mutable earth

Capricorn: cardinal earth

Symbol: the maiden, representing service and analytical thinking. Notable Taurus Ascendant: Bella Hadid Notable Aries Venus: Blake Lively

Symbol: the sea goat, representing the father, diligence, and practicality. Notable Taurus Ascendant: Taylor Swift Notable Aries Venus: Scarlett Johansson

Virgo Venuses and Ascendants are detail oriented and logical. This can manifest in their style being meticulous, and always focusing on the details of a look. They may be perfectionists about their appearance as a result. Some famous people with their Venus in Virgo include Blake Lively and Andrew Garfield. Celebrities with their Ascendant in Virgo include Bella Hadid and Timothee Chalamet.

Capricorn Venuses and Ascendants are known for being practical and serious, which can be evident in how they express themselves through fashion. They like pieces that exemplify hard work and craftsmanship, so well-made designer pieces are right up their alley. Some celebrities with their Venus in Capricorn include Scarlett Johansson and Lucy Liu. Famous people like Naomi Campbell, Megan Fox, and Taylor Swift all have their Ascendants in Capricorn.

Libra: cardinal air Symbol: the scales, representing balance, harmony, and partnership. Notable Aries Ascendant: Beyonce Notable Aries Venus: Emma Stone Libra, like Taurus, is also ruled by Venus, but is the masculine side of Libra. Therefore, it has a different manifestation of the planet of love. Libra Venuses and Ascendants generally have a natural, conventional form of beauty. They have a light, airy style that comes off as effortless as a result of their natural eye for beauty and fashion. Emma Stone has her Venus in Libra and Beyonce has her Ascendant in Libra.

Sagittarius: mutable fire Scorpio: fixed water Symbol: the scorpion, representing intense emotion, passion, and loyalty. Notable Aries Ascendant: Brie Larson Notable Aries Venus: Frank Ocean Scorpio Venuses and Ascendants don’t always wear dark or mutated tones, but those colors do show off the deep emotion and sultry nature of these placements. They like clothes that draw people to them. They are naturally determined and they have an intense vision when it comes to their look. Famous Scorpio venus people include Emilia Clarke and Brie Larson. Frank Ocean and Prince both have their rising in Scorpio.

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Aquarius: fixed air Symbol: The water bearer, representing community and change. Notable Aries Ascendant: Nicki Minaj Notable Aries Venus: Harry Styles Aquarius Venuses and Ascendants are known for their trendsetter style. They know how to play with the conventions and are able to reach a lot of people because of this. They want to be innovative and people with these placements have a style that is reminiscent of art. Some celebrities with an Aquarius Venus include Taylor Swift and Harry Styles. A notable celebrity with their ascendant in Aquarius is Nicki Minaj.

Pisces: mutable water

Symbol: The archer, representing a free, untameable thirst for adventure. Notable Aries Ascendant: Princess Diana Notable Aries Venus: Nicki Minaj Sagittarius Venuses and Ascendants like to take risks with their style. They are bold and like to take inspiration from a wide variety of places. They don’t want to be tied down to one look forever and tend to experiment with their style similar to Gemini Venus or Ascendant placements. Famous people with their Venus in Sagittarius include Nicki Minaj and Jamie Lee Curtis. Some Sagittarius Rising celebrities are Princess Diana and Winona Ryder.

Astrology is a fascinating way to learn something new about yourself and can be useful when creating a fashion style or personal branding. I encourage people to look at their own full birth charts to more fully understand these astrology interpretations. You may draw inspiration from celebrities with the same placements or see how your own closet can illustrate your astrological placements. BY: CYNTHIA SCHNEIDER ILLUSTRATIONS BY: CATHERINE LIU DESIGN BY: CATHERINE LIU

Symbol: The fish, representing dreams and an imaginative nature. Notable Taurus Ascendant: Billie Eilish Notable Aries Venus: Reese Witherspoon Pisces, the fish, represents a dream-like quality to life with a real knack for all things creative and emotion-centered. Pisces Venuses and Ascendants are known for their ethereal, otherworldly look. They may have a fairy-like appearance or gravitate to common mystical or romantic signifiers in their style. They have a soft and expressive way of dressing up and doing makeup. Celebrities with their Venus in Pisces include Elle Fanning and Reese Witherspoon. Some famous Pisces Risings include Billie Eilish and Whitney Houston. The Celestial Issue

Virgo: mutable earth

Capricorn: cardinal earth

Symbol: the maiden, representing service and analytical thinking. Notable Taurus Ascendant: Bella Hadid Notable Aries Venus: Blake Lively

Symbol: the sea goat, representing the father, diligence, and practicality. Notable Taurus Ascendant: Taylor Swift Notable Aries Venus: Scarlett Johansson

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Pisces: mutable water

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