PRESS HIGHLIGHTS January 2nd – January 15th 2018
IMAGE MAKERS AWARDS
2018
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elebrities may be front and center when major fashion moments happen, but if you want to know who’s responsible for those trendsetting looks, go behind the scenes. That’s where you’ll find the real influencers: makeup artists, hair gurus, and stylists. Pay attention all year long (or allow us—because it’s our job), and you’ll notice the same people again and again. These are Marie Claire’s Image Makers. Learn their names, follow their careers, and copy their handiwork—if you haven’t already. By taylore glynn
ARTISTIC INFLUENCE:
CHOICE STYLIST
KARLA WELCH
One of Tracee Ellis Ross’s looks at the 2017 Emmy Awards
Elisabeth Moss at the Cannes Lions Festival
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Welch’s clients are red-carpet regulars (from left): Tracee Ellis Ross, Olivia Wilde, Ruth Negga, and Sarah Paulson
Welch keeps Lorde photoready on the red carpet at the MTV Video Music Awards
“SHE’S NOT TRYING TO PLEASE ANYONE EXCEPT HERSELF AND HER CLIENTS. IT’S NOT ABOUT WHAT’S IN, WHAT’S COOL, OR WHAT’S EXPECTED. DRESSING WITH KARLA MAKES MY CHILDHOOD FASHION DREAMS COME TRUE.” —T racee E llis R oss
“I was a maître d’ at a restaurant, and my manager pushed me to demand excellence of myself and develop a thick skin. Then I married a photographer and started collaborating with him on music-industry shoots. All my major influences are iconic people who have touched my life in a personal way.”
ON SET: “On one of my first shoots with Olivia Wilde, I put her in a cute little Band of Outsiders suit, and she was sitting on an apple crate on the beach. It was beautiful. Since then, we’ve had a wonderfully long relationship. I love the shorthand communication and intuitive freedom that comes with dressing someone over a long period of time—I could send her a dress at any given moment, and 9.5 times out of 10, it’d be the perfect choice.” SECRET WEAPON: “Perspective. If a total crisis happens at an event, you just have to take a deep breath. If there’s a major outfit problem, our team can surround someone and get her off-carpet without anyone seeing. I’ve driven faster than I’ve even driven in my life to deliver a backup dress to a client, and we did a quick change in the bathroom. Always, always have a backup.” WISE WORDS: “I’m old-school: Assist someone, learn from them, and take the reputation that you built being part of their team onward. You’re there to serve your employer, and I mean that in an artful way. Some young people think they can assist someone for six months, then go out and do it on their own, but they miss out on the learning experience. And maybe they’ll do fine, but are they going to have longevity? Probably not.”
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: STEVE GRANITZ/WIREIMAGE, ANDREW H. WALKER/VARIETY/REX/SHUTTERSTOCK, STEVE GRANITZ/WIREIMAGE, MICHAEL TRAN/FILMMAGIC, GREGG DEGUIRE/GETTY IMAGES, COURTESY OF KARLA WELCH (2), MATTHEW WELCH
NEVER UNDERESTIMATE
the power of fashion. A season of statement-making, perfectly accessorized (not to mention widely photographed) ensembles can transform an up-and-coming talent into a major star. Just ask Tracee Ellis Ross, Olivia Wilde, Ruth Negga, and Karlie Kloss, who all work with L.A.-based stylist Welch. Lucky for them, she remains as eager and excited about her job as the day she arrived in Hollywood: “I don’t know that I’ve ever had the thought I’ve made it. I’m going to keep ‘making it’ until the day I die.”
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← scandal that has hit NBC with Matt Lauer’s ouster from “Today.” (“If you’re giving someone a dildo at work, you’re the dildo at work,” Meyers observed on his Nov. 30 show.) It’s a harder subject to tackle outside the structure of his daily reportage on “Late Night,” he admits. “We will tread as lightly as [we] can, but at the same time we don’t want to avoid it,” Meyers says. “We’ll aim for the line, and knowing how my history has gone, we’ll probably end up on the wrong side of it one or two times.” The Globes is sure to draw an audience 10-times larger than the average audience for “Late Night.” But Meyers doesn’t have any intention of adapting his style or humor for an arena-sized crowd. “Ultimately you have to be the best version of yourself when you get these jobs,” he says. “It would be problematic for me if I start thinking about doing something else just because of the scope.” Meyers and his team will relocate to Los Angeles for the two weeks leading up to the telecast — weeks that “Late Night” was already scheduled to be dark. The key will be to create a sense of intimacy in the Hilton that allows viewers feel they’re at the table for a glitzy Hollywood party. The dinner (and copious booze) that is part of the Globes ceremony helps that cause. “Amy and Tina made it feel like a dinner party they were hosting,” Meyers says. “I’m hoping we can get close to that same feeling.” Meyers knows from experience as a Globes presenter how intimidating it can be to play to a small room packed with such high-wattage stars. “You just try to dial up your gaze a bit beyond the first few rows of tables and think about it as little as possible.”
Belles of the Ball Stylists dress clients to impress for the first awards show of the year.
Fashion Frenzy Stylists dressing actresses for Golden Globes face quick turnaround times and extra scrutiny By JASMIN ROSEMBERG T h e m o m e n t t h e Golden
Globe nominations are announced, the clock begins ticking for celebrity stylists tasked with outfitting their clients for one of the world’s biggest red carpets in just under a month. And given that designers universally close shop over the Christmas and New Year’s holidays, 27 calendar days between noms and
the show end up amounting to only about two weeks of actual prep time. “Every year the turnaround time is getting shorter and shorter, and it’s a real Catch-22 for us,” says Cristina Ehrlich, whose clients include Julia Louis-Dreyfus, Greta Gerwig, Laura Dern, Alison Brie, Allison Williams and Tina Fey. “A lot of our actresses don’t even want to have the dialogue until they’re officially nominated. So we’re just having to work double-time.” Ehrlich begins dialogues with designers to plant seeds right after the Emmys, attempting to get as organized as early as possible. Still, the days leading up to the Globes will inevitably be hectic — particularly since these
past few years brought unexpected hurdles. “Last year at this time, a lot of my clients were ever so distraught for week upon week after the election, and if you said, ‘Well did that affect how your fittings ran?’ Absolutely!” says Ehrlich, who had to return gowns and reschedule appointments. “And it feels a little bit trickier this year, because [with] the climate in Hollywood, women are the topic and the discussion. People aren’t using words anymore like, ‘I want to look sexy.’ It’s more about, ‘I want to look like I’m a woman of power. I want to look like a woman who is standing my ground.’” Following the announcement that this year’s SAG Awards will feature all-fe-
male presenters, both actors and actresses have said they may wear black to the Globes in silent protest of sexual harassment. Ehrlich’s clients are really thinking about “why they’re wearing what they’re wearing” this year, and several have requested to wear female designers. As always, Ehrlich will try to tell a unique fashion story for each of them. “Because [the Globes] is international and it’s the Hollywood Foreign Press, you really want these women to have a moment that is going to strike as many different audiences as you can,” she says. Some of her favorite past looks include Williams’ red Armani Prive in 2015, Priyanka Chopra
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JANUARY 2, 2018
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CONTENDERS GOLDEN GLOBES 2018
2014, the year she won lead drama actress for “Blue Jasmine.” (“It was fabulous from the back as well!” she notes.) Another favorite is the pale pink Givenchy Blanchett wore in 2016, which Stewart calls “another fabulous Riccardo Tisci moment out of many.” Last year, Stewart dressed Davis, supporting actress winner for “Fences,”
It’s more about ‘I want to look like I’m a woman of power. I want to look like a woman who is standing my ground.’” Cristina Ehrlich
in a yellow Michael Kors design. “Viola’s dress was meant to telegraph hope and optimism, as well as be an example of our style directive for that season: bold, strong, bright!” Stewart feels there’s no way to prepare in advance of the nominations, though she’s still been able to achieve results. Last year, she put a pregnant Gadot in a sequined Mugler gown. “I met her for the first time the day before and I couldn’t be happier with how it turned out,” she says. “It’s nice to know things can work out last minute.” The Globes ceremony is only one of several winter awards events talent might attend, kicking off a season that includes SAG and concludes with the Oscars. “We’re generally working
on the entire awards season promotion and press tour of [a] film, and there is a natural sort of momentum that you build,” says Micaela Erlanger, who’s worked with Meryl Streep, Lupita Nyong’o, Michelle Dockery, Jared Leto, Winona Ryder and Common. “I take into consideration what the film is about, what their role is within the film, are they a lead or supporting actor?” She also considers the nature of the awards show. “I feel like there’s a little bit more levity and ease to the red carpet [at SAG],” she says. “For Golden Globes, it’s a more traditional blacktie expectation of dress code and the glamour that comes along with it. And then of course the Oscars is just like the crème de la crème.”
Among Erlanger’s favorite Globes looks is Nyong’o’s 2014 debut on the awards circuit in a red caped Ralph Lauren. She also loved Dockery’s 2013 dress from Alexandre Vauthier, an emerging couturier. And Streep in custom Givenchy last year was “about as cool as it can get.” “That was obviously a very special moment, not only because of the speech that she made,” she says. “To be a part of it in such a small way was so exciting for me.” Erlanger would love to see women reinvent glamour this year, and she thinks actresses will go one of two ways. “It’s either going to be a little bit more subdued, or women are going to be like, ‘This is our time, this is our moment, let’s go for it.’”
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in last year’s gold beaded Ralph Lauren and Margot Robbie in the white Gucci dress in 2014. She says Louis-Dreyfus “has it down to a science,” and she also works with vets such as Penelope Cruz — who she says has an “Old Hollywood but modern vibe” — and former Globes co-host Fey — whose many outfit changes during the 2014 show were coordinated with Amy Poehler and her stylist. “The Globes is the big opener so it’s nice to open with a splash,” says Elizabeth Stewart, stylist to Cate Blanchett, Jessica Chastain, Viola Davis, Gal Gadot and Julia Roberts. “It’s also a crowded red carpet because it’s television and film.” Stewart’s all-time favorite look is Blanchett’s black lace Armani dress from
JANUARY 2, 2018
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TO P B I L L I N G | News
Showy Look Gal Gadot in dressed in Prabal Gurung at the VMAs. The frock is one of stylist Elizabeth Stewart’s highlights.
january 5, 2018
variety.com
ano ther round of red carpets means another round of gorgeous
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gowns, and a golden opportunity for up-and-coming fashion designers to savor a coveted moment in the spotlight. Hot on the heels of the Golden Globes nominations, we asked stylists Cristina Ehrlich (who’s dressing nominees Alison Brie, Allison Williams, Greta Gerwig and Laura Dern), Micaela Erlanger (Meryl Streep) and Elizabeth Stewart (Jessica Chastain) to share which rising stars they’re eyeing this awards season. CLAIRE COGHLAN
Michael Halpern
“He’s fearless — he’s not afraid of sparkle, he’s not afraid of drama, and he likes to go for silhouettes that are very daring,” says Ehrlich of London-based New Yorker Halpern, whose 1-year-old label has fast become a red-carpet favorite. “It’s divine, it’s exciting and it’s unlike anything I’ve ever seen before.” Erlanger recently chose Halpern for clients Lupita Nyong’o and Diane Kruger. “You get this underlying
sense that he loves a woman’s body,” says Ehrlich. “He looks at a woman like a canvas, and he drapes her, and the more unpredictable, the better.”
Simon Porte Jacquemus
“He plays with shape and volume in a very interesting way, but it never compromises a woman’s figure,” says Erlanger of Paris-based Jacquemus, whom she discovered on Instagram.
Gabriela Hearst
“She’s a woman, and she designs for a woman,” says Erlanger of the Uruguay-born, New York-based designer whose namesake label is just 2 years old. “Her tailoring is impeccably done and her workmanship is divine. There’s something really important about understanding shape and fit and structure, and she nails it. Her work isn’t overly complicated; it’s not trying to be anything more than what it is, and it’s so beautifully done. You want to wear her clothes — women want to wear her clothes.”
Yacine Aouadi
“His work is unique, fresh, interesting and beautiful,” says Stewart, who was so taken by Marseille-born, Paris-based designer Aouadi’s debut couture collection, she plucked a dress from the runway for Cate Blanchett. “He had a show OUTSIDE
the Chanel show in Paris to grab the editors who would stop by — I stopped by!” says Stewart of how she discovered the then-unknown designer. “Cate has a great eye for design and a willingness to take risks, I knew she would be up for it,” says Stewart of the “tattoo” dress Blanchett wore to a premiere in New York.
Guy Laroche
Recently appointed creative director Richard René has breathed new life into the storied French label founded in 1957. “What he offers is this clean, sleek, very feminine, but very sophisticated and smart sensibility,” says Ehrlich of René’s new-look Laroche. “This is for the woman who likes clean classics, and is obsessed with tailoring. It’s sexy, but just the right amount of sexy. To me, if Helmut Newton had a uniform, they would all be wearing Guy Laroche. I have a silhouette lined up for one of my girls, which she’ll be wearing soon.”
Prabal Gurung
“I’ve always liked his twist on things,” says Stewart of the New York-based, Nepal-born designer whose star has been steadily rising. “I connect with him on a personal level, his politics are mine, he operates like I do.” Gurung’s been using his growing platform to advocate for →
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Red Carpet Rising: Hollywood’s Stylists Reveal Fave Designers
She then “ordered a bunch of his stuff” online in order to try it for herself. “His shapes are very unique, but they were very flattering,” she says of the 27-year-old designer. “He’s taking the woman as a feminine template, and saying that she can be so many different things now,” says Ehrlich, “and that you can go out of the comfort and the confines of classic dressing to look really, really beautiful.”
TO P B I L L I N G | News ← change. Some of Stewart’s favorite Gurung moments include Gal Gadot at the VMAs, “many moments with Jessica Chastain” and January Jones at the Emmys in 2014. “They are such a good match,” notes Stewart of Gurung and Jones, “both a little off the beaten path.”
Y/Project
“What I love about Y/Project is that it’s unpredictable,” says Ehrlich of the Parisian label helmed by Belgian Glenn Martens. “It’s about showing sexy, but sexy in a very unpredictable way. There’s an intelligence to it. It’s about very clean, very specific lines, and it’s about layers, and it’s about being daring. These are pieces for a woman who really knows who she is. When you wear a brand like Y/Project, you’re not looking to enter a room and disappear; you want to really stand out.”
“Vivetta is phenomenal; she has the couture craftsmanship and point of view,” says Erlanger of Milanbased Ponti. “It’s really fun and out there and sometimes that’s what you need — a good dose of fearless fashion.” The label founded in 2009 only recently garnered international attention. “I haven’t even had a chance to request it yet because it’s just come on my radar in the last couple of months. But I’m happy to have discovered her work.”
Esteban Cortázar
january 5, 2018
variety.com
Since relaunching in 2012, the Bogotá-born, Paris-based designer has attracted a legion of A-list fans, including Rihanna, Gwyneth Paltrow and Cate Blanchett. Of the look Blanchett wore to the premiere of “Carol” in London, Stewart says she has “an unabiding love for how Cate looked in that dress.” Cortázar, who was the youngest designer to show at New York fashion week, at 18, is enjoying a renaissance. “I have a moment coming up I’m very excited for, kicking off award season.” Stewart says she and Cortázar “bonded over a mutual love of donuts.”
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Attico
“I’m so drawn to the shapes, and the use of materials and sequins and patterns,” says Erlanger of Attico, launched by Italian streetstyle stars Giorgia Tordini and Gilda Ambrosio last year. Though just a year old, the Milanese “It” girls are fast become “It” designers. “It’s a very interesting take on women’s wear,” says Erlanger, who hasn’t yet had an opportunity to dress her clients in Attico. “Not for lack of trying, that’s for sure. They’re in such high demand, and there’s one sample set to go around!”
Turning Heads Top row: Cate Blanchett in Yacine Aouadi; Lupita Nyong’o in Michael Halpern; Selena Gomez in Simon Porte Jacquemus; middle row: Laura Dern in Gabriela Hearst; Guy Laroche spring 2018 fashion show; Chloe Sevigny in Y/Project; bottom row: Zendaya in Vivetta Ponti; Cate Blanchett in Esteban Cortázar; Katy Perry in Attico
AOUADI: MEDIAPUNCH/REX/SHUTTERSTOCK; HALPERN: BROADIMAGE/REX/SHUTTERSTOCK; JACQUEMUS: CHELSEA LAUREN/REX/SHUTTERSTOCK; HEARST: MARION CURTIS/STARPIX/REX/SHUTTERSTOCK; LAROCHE: MARC COMBER/REX/SHUTTERSTOCK; Y/PROJECT: STEVEN FERDMAN/REX/SHUTTERSTOCK; PONTI: ANTHONY HARVEY/REX/SHUTTERSTOCK; CORTÁZAR: DAVID FISHER/REX/SHUTTERSTOCK; ATTICO: BROADIMAGE/REX/SHUTTERSTOCK
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BEAUTY NEWS
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Simple Strands “With my hair, I only need two things: a good haircut and a good conditioner,” says Victoria’s Secret angel, SARA SAMPAIO on the key to her healthy locks.
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“Amber’s sculpted front puts a punky spin on the chic French twist in back,” says hairstylist Adir Abergel, who styled her ’do . To get the look, he worked Virtue The One for All 6-1 Styler ($36, hsn.com), a styling cream, from mid-shaft to ends for shine, and Bumble and bumble Bb. Thickening Full Form Mousse ($31, ulta.com) into roots for lift. Next, he swept hair over to one side and molded the front section into a swoop. Then, making sure to leave lots of volume in front for a modern effect, he rolled hair into a mega–French twist in back and pinned in place.
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Braided Twist: Sexy “The texture of Sara’s braid adds sultry allure to the elegance of her twist-like updo,” says the model’s hairstylist, Rebekah Forecast. Her simple to-do: Separate hair into two sections: one on top from ear to ear and the second right below it. Gather the bottom section into a high pony, then wrap the top section around the pony’s elastic; pin. Braid the pony, fold it under, tucking the ends into the elastic then pin to the head.
Jamie & Katie
BUMP ALERT!
BE PREPARED
The stylist William Gilchrist lets the rake into a few of his sartorial secrets…
by benedict browne photography kim lang
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1. Strong, sturdy and easy to throw about, William’s bag is from the Danish luggage brand Mismo. “I don’t really see a bag as anything other than a receptacle,” he says. 2. William’s choice of smokes for the evening is a pack of Tor Oriental, which is a marinated Turkish tobacco. During the day, however, it’s a pack of Marlboro Red, which he keeps in a silver cigarette case from 1915 engraved with his initials. 3. He always carries his Sony RX1003, and he keeps hold of it using this perfectly measured lanyard, so if he drops it, it won’t come to an early death courtesy of the pavement. 4. “I like a list, and sometimes I actually manage to cross things off,” he tells me. Notice how there’s no regimental order of western left-to-right script. 5. “It’s organic and all that kerfuffle,” he says about his fragrance from Fueguia 1833, which he discovered in Buenos Aires and has only ever managed to find there. Propped against it is his hip flask, with Fortaleza Blanco tequila at the ready.
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6. Also at the ready, in the buttonhole of his lapel, is his Pelikan pen, which he likes because it’s semi-transparent and doesn’t leak on airplanes. 7. He is unable to stand the cold. “It’s not a peacock thing, it’s a warmth thing,” he says when asked why he has two scarves, which he bought from Peckham Rye in Soho. 8. William wears a fedora by the age-old American hatmakers Stetson, a name that has become synonymous with quality millinery. It was a gift from a musician whose identity he’d rather not reveal. 9. Sporting his favourite pair of runningabout-town shoes, William wears a pair of double monkstrap shoes by Oliver Spencer. He opts for buckling only one strap, to make it easier to slip in and out of.
W
illiam Gilchrist moves in a very unique and nonchalant manner, with slow, graceful strides that exude confidence. He is the man behind the Rolling Stones’ aesthetic of the last 15 years, and personal stylist to Jude Law. Wonderfully rakish and with a carefree, bohemian and intellectual candour, he’s someone you’d want to hit the town with, exemplified by the contents of his hip flask: tequila. When asked if the flask has an interesting provenance, he says, “No, it’s just always good to be prepared…” Often seen around Mayfair on his Brompton bike, which underlines his penchant for functional products, William is never in a rush. He prefers louche, unstructured tailoring to dress his slender frame, and he bespeaks Richard Anderson “for all the grown-up stuff”, including the double-breasted jacket featured here, which is cut from a slightly stretched cotton twill. “It’s kind of like my runaround jeans, I wanted my version of the tracksuit, I guess.” The trousers, in the same cloth, are by his great friend Oliver Spencer. He also doesn’t like dry cleaners — “nothing worse”, he says — so as a result he chucks everything in the washing machine, tailoring and cashmere included.
POCKET GUIDE
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