issue standouts PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 5078P PAGE 08
A. LANGE & SÖHNE Zeitwerk Striking Time PAGE 07
Our House
UNITED STATES +1 866 858 8434
HONG KONG +852 5804 3363
SINGAPORE +65 9662 5466
A.
ISSUE NO. 02 | FEBRUARY 2021
SWITZERLAND +41 32 722 12 80
inside the issue
03
THE LATEST Featured videos from WatchBox Studios
08
INTRODUCING OUR HOUSE Thoughts from the watch-obsessed
10
INFINITE ANGLES Inside the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Collection
12
ENDLESS DISCOVERY Selections from the Vault
14
IN CONVERSATION With collector and friend, @shani.watch
15
ARTIST OF THE HOUSE Getting to know Sunflowerman
Mr. Hyde
THE PENDULUM SWING OF A. LANGE & SÖHNE WATCH DESIGN BY JUSTIN MASTINE-FROST
Lange & Söhne is by no means the only brand whose portfolio of watch collections is an expression of diversity, however when reflecting upon their watches, the connection between Lange’s design expressions and the Robert Louis Stevenson classic is all too fitting. On one end of the spectrum, Lange persistently draws from its heritage, and all of the classical elements that make Glashütte watchmaking distinct in the category. On the other end, and as sporadically as the brand sees fit, we are presented with bold, unabashed executions of contemporary design, albeit with the same traditionalist twist that makes every Lange cohesive. Though Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde are two distinct characters, at the root they are one and the same if you examine them with a close lens. Lange’s more modern creations are by no means ‘evil’, but rather edgier and less constrained
Inclusive to everyone, exclusive to the finest watches
MIDDLE EAST +971 4 2841661
Representing the full spectrum of A. Lange & Söhne watch design with the Zeitwerk and 1815 Chronograph.
Dr. Jekyll
BULGARI Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater PAGE 10
DE BETHUNE DB28GS Grand Bleu PAGE 09
by their environment, history, or legacy. Because the watches released at either end of the spectrum are equal in terms of overall quality, and often limited to fairly small production runs, Lange developed a devout collector following for both segments. It’s an interesting variation of the ‘something for everyone’ sort of approach, but not in the same broadening of catalog method often seen from larger luxury watch group brands. This is by no means the same as brands deciding that their portfolio needs to include a diver, a dress watch, a pilot, and so on. Instead, it’s more of a matter of acknowledging not all collectors (especially these days) are interested in dress watches, however there’s always an appreciation of traditional methods of finishing and movement design regardless of overall aesthetic. CONTINUE READING ON PAGE 06
THEWATCHBOX.COM
counting the minutes A letter from Marketing Director and Our House Editor, Caroline Joffe.
The construct of time influences every Mastine-Frost. There’s much more moment and every decision of our lives: to the pages that follow, and we look conscious and subconscious thought, forward to sharing our obsessions and emotion, and the complex interplay expertise with you. of past and present. In the realm of Throughout the coming year, horology, watchmakers are artists, WatchBox’s horological curriculum timekeepers, and precision engineers, will span experiential, emotional, responsible for perpetuating a craft that aesthetic, and of course, the technical is historically rooted and in a constant considerations of horology. Your state of evolution. They transform feedback to the questions below will tangible materials into mechanical help us tailor WatchBox’s events, poetry, revealing a narrative about content, and special initiatives to meet the watchmaker, its wearer, and that your interests. Our house is always open precise moment in time. And after the to those want to learn more, and we wild ride of 2020, we can collectively are counting the minutes until we can agree that watches have the power to resume in-person gatherings, events, instantly lift the spirit. and behind-the-scenes experiences. Welcome to Our House. Whether Until then, we’ve gotten pretty this is the beginning of your watch comfortable behind the camera and experience or a step along your next to one another on Zoom, and we collecting journey, WatchBox is here by look forward to seeing you soon. your side. WatchBox was founded by a team of passionate individuals who All my best, love watches, and we’re always excited to talk shop and trade stories about the nuances and thrills of collecting life. In this issue, we weave together perspectives of our watch-obsessed CAROLINE KALLMAN JOFFE team with a narrative on collecting Marketing Director from longtime friend of WatchBox, Todd Searle, and a fantastic exploration of A. Lange & Söhne from contributing CAROLINEJOFFE editor and horological authority, Justin EDITOR’S WISH LIST
HOW TO
INTERACT WITH OUR HOUSE Ready to talk watches 24/7, our team of client advisors, watchmakers, and experts will guide you at every step. Learn more—and shop—everything you see on the pages of Our House by following the prompts to interact below.
DIAL IN ON THE DETAILS
Check out a hands-on video review from WatchBox Studios
EXPLORE COLLECTIONS Seamless, on-the-go access to the watches you love
COLLECTING TOGETHER
Obsessed with the watches you own and the ones you don’t own yet? We’re right here with you. Connect with one of our client advisors 24/7.
INQUIRING MINDS
Questions for our Collector’s Circle. Whenever you see this icon, we want to hear from you. Send your answers to journal@thewatchbox.com or tag your posts @watchbox and #watchbox on Instagram.
SPEAKING OF INQUIRING MINDS... • What brands do you want to learn more about? • If you could invite any special guest to collector gathering, who would it be? • How do you define “community?” • What was your tipping point as a collector? • What was your first watch, and do you still have it? • What is your most cherished watch-related memory? • What are your favorite watch accounts on Instagram?
F.P. JOURNE Élégante 40 Titalyt
2
H. MOSER & CIE.
Endeavour Perpetual Moon with aventurine dial
THE COLLECTOR’S JOURNAL | THEWATCHBOX.COM
Send your answers to journal@thewatchbox.com or tag your posts @watchbox and #watchbox on Instagram.
Tune into WatchBox Studios for weekly industry insight, reviews, and education for collectors, by collectors.
WATCH WEEKLY
the latest
JUST PUSH PLAY
Watches Tonight
Market Wrap
MONDAYS @5PM EST
SATURDAYS @7AM EST
SUNDAY SPECIALS
After Hours Collector Conversations
AFTER HOURS
WATCH EXPERTS BY YOUR SIDE; READY TO TALK WATCHES 24/7. Conversation, opinion and debate from the WatchBox trading floor, AFTER HOURS. The watch market is in constant motion, and our crew is watch-obsessed. Here we gather our client advisors, buyers and friends to pull back the curtain on collecting, the watch industry, and the vibe that is WatchBox.
OUR FAVORITE WATCHES UNDER $5,000
A budget of $5,000 opens the doors to an incredible array of accessibly priced luxury watches; dive watches, pilot’s watches, chronographs, and sought-after pieces packed with style. In this episode of WatchBox After Hours, C’Quon Gottlieb, Brian Govberg, and Mike Manjos explore watches that punch way above their weight in terms of intrigue, quality, and mechanics. WHAT MAKES A WATCH WORTH OVER $100,000?
What makes a watch worth over $100,000? The old school answer, according to Mike Manjos (in jest, of course), is simply five zeros… As admirers, collectors, and experts in the luxury watch space, we know many people question what makes a watch this expensive. In this episode we sit down to discuss highly complicated, ultra-rare —and yes, very expensive—timepieces.
WATCHBOX’S YEAR IN REVIEW
Do you have ideas for future episodes? Let us know! afterhours@thewatchbox.com
In the face of a global pandemic, the WatchBox community offered a welcomed outlet for so many collectors and enthusiasts, and we are thankful for the camaraderie, shared enjoyment, and the watches we shared throughout this challenging time. Despite worldwide lockdowns, and the temporary closures of factories and retailers, many of our favorite brands delivered exceptional new collections. Let’s reflect on the best releases 2020 had to offer together.
Market Wrap LEADING EXPERTISE POWERED BY MARKET DATA Each week WatchBox’s Global Head of Trading, Mike Manjos, discusses what’s driving the luxury watch market, based on 24/7 market data and global trends.
The Booming Market for Patek Philippe’s Discontinued Nautilus Ref. 5711/1A
Rising Demand for Precious Metal Rolex and a Look at Zenith’s New Chronomaster Sport
The State of Watch Collecting with a Boomer and Gen Z
Audemars Piguet’s Past, Present + Future
WATCHBOX GLOBAL MARKET WRAP The Watch World Transforms in 2020
FOR SALES INQUIRIES, CONTACT JOURNAL@THEWATCHBOX.COM
3
INDUSTRY INSIGHT
Enthusiasts, watchmakers, scholars, and people who simply love watches. Some conversations were face to face, others over Zoom; plus, a special series from Dubai Watch Week.
ONE-ON-ONE WITH MB&F’S MAX BÜSSER
“When you find talent, try and keep it close.” In this discussion, Büsser lays out his creative process in a revealing conversation with Tim Mosso. Max discusses what made his heart race as a kid, the genius that comes out of fear, and the principles that guide him each day. He traces important milestones in his career, from foundational years at JLC, to the many Horological Machines that have since followed.
Talking Time WITH TIM MOSSO
Tune in to the podcast weekly for a deep dive into horology. Subscribe Now
Follow Along
A Conversation with the Visionary Behind Ressence; Benôit Mintiens
François-Henry Bennahmias: CEO of Audemars Piguet
Photographer, Journalist & Horological Entrepreneur: Kristian Haagen
The Past and Future of H. Moser & Cie. with CEO Edouard Meylan
Philippe Dufour on Independence and Watchmaking
Mechanical Complexity and Precision with Greubel Forsey‘s Stephen Forsey
New arrivals, collector insight, and exclusive content, right at your fingertips.
@WatchBox @WatchBoxStudios @WatchBoxGlobal @WatchBoxGlobal
4
THE COLLECTOR’S JOURNAL | THEWATCHBOX.COM
Our House No. 02 | The Latest
EVERY WATCH REVIEWED
Tim Mosso goes beyond the spec sheet to deliver a comprehensive catalogue of hands-on watch reviews; thousands of watches at your fingertips. Discover all technical and aesthetic nuances of a watch, from buckle to hairspring. Check out @watchboxreviews daily on YouTube as Tim brings our inventory to life.
VACHERON CONSTANTIN Saltarello Jump Hour
BREITLING
Superocean Heritage ‘57 Limited Edition II
ROLEX
Oyster Perpetual 124300
Talking Rolex, Richard Mille & Porsche with Drew Coblitz
Rolex, Patek Philippe, Vintage Watches: The Armoury’s Mark Cho
GRAND SEIKO
Heritage Hi-Beat 36000 Limited Edition SLGH003
the watch that has everyone talking.
MUST-SEE CONVERSATIONS
Enthusiasts, watchmakers, scholars, and people who simply love watches. Some conversations were face to face, others over Zoom; plus, a special series from Dubai Watch Week.
OMEGA
Seamaster Planet Ocean 600M GMT
Rolex Scholar, James Dowling Talks Vintage and Market Trajectory
Watch Designer and actor Aldis Hodge, on Greubel Forsey, F.P. Journe, MB&F and more
Collector, Sumei Shum on the ultimate grail watch and more
When Thierry Stern confirmed the discontinuation of the beloved 5711/1A , the entire watch world was abuzz, and access is the word on everyone’s mind. ARE YOU CURRENTLY SEEKING A NAUTILUS?
FOR SALES INQUIRIES, CONTACT JOURNAL@THEWATCHBOX.COM
5
Which two models do you think best represent the A. Lange & Söhne ethos?
Saxonia Automatic 380.028
CONTINUED FROM PAGE 01
This appreciation is proven by the ever-growing appreciation for Patek Philippe and Kari Voutilainen on one end of the spectrum, and Richard Mille and MB&F on the other, as well as the fact that you’ll often see a Datograph or 1815 as part of a collection alongside the former, and a Zeitwerk alongside the latter.
31 (with a 31-day power reserve), and the Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon. Even with those heavyhitting complications at hand, you’re still looking at conventional classics at the surface level; Not a button, cuff, or bow tie is even faintly out of place on the good doctor just yet.
DR. JEKYLL, I PRESUME? With A. Lange & Söhne so deeply rooted in history, it’s easy to see how its traditions trickle their way through the majority of the brand’s collections. Even in nomenclature, this history rings through. The Saxonia collection is named after the former region of Saxony in which Glashütte resides, and the 1815 pays tribute to the year F.A. Lange was born. Each of these lines, as well as the Richard Lange collection are about as traditional as they come in terms of design; Either pad printed or applied indices, blued hands, and crisp cases most often crafted of precious metals, as one would expect from a brand holding firm to tradition. Where Lange gets a little sneaky here is in its complications. After all, these are the collections hiding elements like the Double and Triple Split, the Lange
ENTER MR. HYDE The blazer has been unbuttoned, the sleeves rolled up, and somewhere in a corner on the floor of the Lange workshop rests an untied bow tie. Mr. Hyde has arrived. From a corner of his eye we see the bright and radioactive glow of one of Lange’s heroes of contemporary design—the Lange Lumen collection. Lange’s Director of Product Development, Anthony de Haas himself refers to the Lumen collection as a playground of sorts, allowing his creative team to step far outside the conventions of typical Lange dial design. Any self-respecting watch enthusiast out there can appreciate a thoughtful application of luminous material, and every watch to come out of this collection is exactly that. In the case of the 1815 Up/Down Chrono we are
discussing the datograph When the Datograph was introduced in 1999, it reset the standard for the chronograph, making the world pay attention to high-end, in-house chronograph movements. At that point, the most elite brands were using Lemania-based movements, decorating and assembling them, but not investing in the technology to build from the bottom up. And then this brand from Germany introduced a gorgeous chronograph,
6
THE COLLECTOR’S JOURNAL | THEWATCHBOX.COM
treated to a reverse ‘radioactive’ panda dial, complete with a lumed tachymeter scale, sundial ‘eyes’, and date discs, allowing for clear legibility in darkness. The Grand Lange 1 Moon Phase “Lumen,” on the other hand, delivers a glowing tapestry of night sky through its moonphase indication, alongside the requisite lumed hands and indices for time, date, and power reserve displays. Part of the beauty in these pieces isn’t just their glowing personalities either. Rather than a solid dial, Lange uses a smoked sapphire crystal which does a purposely modest job of masking the inner workings of the watch. When fully charged by UV light, the fully exposed indices are clear as day, yet a subtle glow still shows through the smoked disk, adding to the edgy display. Of course, the story doesn’t stop with the Lumen, nor did it start there if we’re keeping count. The oddest, edgiest, most sought after contemporary has been and will always be the mighty Zeitwerk in all of its different forms. First launched in 2008, this was the first modern Lange with any sort of digital time indication, and
WatchBox’s global head of trading and #1 Lange fan, Mike Manjos, weighs in.
which lit a fire for the Swiss industry. While rather conservative from its dial side, as soon as you flip the Datograph over, you know this watch was built to be viewed from the back. The movement was designed by Annegret Fleischer, features outstanding three-dimensionality, and is immaculately finished.
datograph evolution Spotting the differences between Datograph generations DATOGRAPH REF. 403.035
Grand Lange 1 “Lumen” 117.035
Introduced in 1999
THE ODDEST, EDGIEST, MOST SOUGHT-AFTER CONTEMPORARY DESIGN HAS BEEN AND ALWAYS WILL BE THE MIGHTY ZEITWERK IN ALL OF ITS DIFFERENT FORMS.
Calibre: L951.1 405 components 36 hour power reserve Case Diameter: 39mm
the first modern wristwatch in existence with digital jumping hours and jumping minutes, linked to a constant escapement mechanism. From there the collection grew to include a Lumen variant, a date complication, and a string of chiming complications. One of the more interesting visual details of the Zeitwerk outside its time telling is actually quite functional. The frame surrounding its digital indications and seconds sundial is actually one of the bridges that supports the hour and minute discs. Much as we can acknowledge the significant differences found between one end of Lange’s collections and the other, we also have to acknowledge the commonalities that make these pieces tick. What is that A. Lange & Söhne secret sauce, exactly? It’s said by many that even without hallmarks, you can spot a Lange in a second when looking through its display caseback, and I’d be pretty quick to agree with that
statement. Quality plays a role in this, but more than anything it’s the execution of particular details that you won’t often see elsewhere. The biggest and most obvious component is the three quarter plate, a manufacturing solution of F.A. Lange that dates clear back to 1864, and one that’s recognized as one of the biggest traditions in Glashütte watchmaking. More complex to execute during assembly, the intent was to create greater stability in pocket watch movements, and the design ethos has stuck through to the present day. You’ll also note the consistent use of German silver for said plates, blued screws (heat treated, not chemically treated), hand-engraved balance cocks, and lastly the use of gold chatons for most movement jewels. Now, none of these elements are exclusive to Lange alone, but it’s the complete package and its flawless execution that keeps Lange ahead of the pack.
Case Height: 12.8mm Roman numeral markers
Introduced in 2012 Calibre: L951.6 451 components 60 hour power reserve Addition of power reserve indicator at 6 o’clock Case Diameter: 41mm Case Height: 13.1mm Baton hour markers
This or That: Zeitwerk (below) or Lumen (above)?
DATOGRAPH UP/DOWN REF. 405.035
Which Datograph generation do you prefer any why?
7 Zeitwerk Striking Time 145.032
Zeitwerk 140.029
our house Welcome to
THIS OR THAT
Obsessed with watches? We’re right there with you. At our house, a dynamic team of client advisors, watchmakers and storytellers are committed to serving the watch community with passionate expertise, the highest standards of service, and a shared obsession with works of mechanical art.
WITH C’QUON GOTTLIEB Senior Client Advisor
WHAT’S ON THE MINDS OF WATCHBOX’S WATCH-OBSESSED?
ARMAND JOHNSTON Senior Client Advisor
What is your area of expertise? Collection assessment and management. Finding out my clients’ goals for their collection, identifying buying patterns, and presenting new themes and suggestions for future exploration. The ocean of watch collecting is a wide and deep one, and I can help you navigate.
THIS
BRIAN GOVBERG
Managing Director, Watch Sales
HYT H0
How did you get into watches? I’ve had an interest in all things mechanical for as long as I can remember, and fine watchmaking and timepieces fit into that category perfectly. I received my grandfather’s Omega for my 18th birthday and high school graduation and that essentially kick-started my interest in reading about mechanical timepieces. Over a decade later; and I am still reading! What watch is at the top of your horological wish list?
What watch is at the top of your horological wish list? I am really digging the mid-sized Cartier Santos in terms of a modern piece, and I’d also love a 16660 on the vintage end. Going true vintage, a Patek Beta 21 is one of the coolest, quirkiest, vintage pieces. But ask me again tomorrow and all of these answers will have changed.
Patek Philippe Ref. 5078P-001. No complication is more difficult to master than the minute repeater, and Patek Philippe unquestionably creates the finest of them. Measuring 38mm and featuring a white enamel dial with black Breguet numerals, the watch is self-winding and features no other complications. What most appeals to me is that the watch could easily be mistaken for a simple time only wristwatch reserving its true beauty only for its wearer. It exemplifies the best of Patek in a case size perfect for my wrist, and it is discreet enough that I could wear it regularly.
THAT
Ressence Type 1N Night Blue
The verdict? Both are modern, unconventional systems for displaying time while celebrating the engagement between watch and its wearer. Bottom line - these watches are fun to wear and rarely spotted in the wild. What’s your verdict? The HYT H0 or the Ressence Type 1N Night Blue?
ITSMEARMAND
8
THE COLLECTOR’S JOURNAL | THEWATCHBOX.COM
BRIANGOVBERG
CQ_THEWATCHGUY
Our House No. 02 | Welcome to Our House
FEEL THE BEAT Think you have a better pairing? Submit your watch and song by tagging @watchbox and using #WatchBoxDJ on Instagram.
#WATCHBOXDJ | MUSIC FOR THE MOMENT The WatchBox Soundtrack Turn up the volume for the soundtrack that keeps us ticking! De Bethune DB28GS Grand Bleu
F.P. Journe Vagabondage III
Rolex Datejust Pearlmaster 86349
RECOMMENDATIONS
GWEYS SORIANO
Luxury Retail Consultant WatchBox Middle East PATEK PHILIPPE GWEYSSORIANO
Nautilus Ref. 5711/1A
contributor obsessions With price and availability not among of the rules of this game, we put the question out there; what is at the top of your wish list?
ROLEX
Daytona 116508
A. LANGE & SÖHNE Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Ref. 720.032F
CARTIER
Panthère de Cartier
TODD SEARLE
JUSTIN MASTINE-FROST
There really is only one watch at the top of my wish list: the Greubel Forsey GMT Sport. Combining all of the features of Greubel Forsey’s mechanically and aesthetically pleasing GMT Earth and innovating a new case in ultra-lightweight titanium, this is the perfect anytime, anywhere watch. Sculpted perfectly to the ergonomics of any wrist and at only 115 grams, this watch is a visual stunner and marvel of watchmaking. I love hidden gems on the caseback including a visual display of world times with a specific summertime sub-dial. This is a watch I can see wearing on the beach, on the bike, and in the boardroom.
It’s always difficult to narrow down to one single watch that I’m dying to own, but one that has been on my mind for well over a year now is the Urban Jürgensen One Reference 5541 GMT. Though a bit subtle compared to some of my other watches, I’ve been thinking about things like the Vacheron Constantin Overseas and other travel-friendly “do anything” watches, but there’s something about the overall execution of the One GMT (its hands, its dial, its movement finishing) that make it the “one” steel sports watch that I’d love to own one day.
TODDLESTODDLESTODDLES
JUSTINMFROST
FOR SALES INQUIRIES, CONTACT JOURNAL@THEWATCHBOX.COM
9
DISCOVERING THE BULGARI OCTO FINISSIMO COLLECTION
Infinite Angles BY TODD SEARLE
T
he moment I saw the Octo Finissimo out of the corner of my eye, everything changed. I was immediately drawn to a dusty rose gold watch with a beautiful bracelet and a sculpted case. Admittedly, I was shocked to read the name on the dial: Bulgari. It was stunning, astonishingly thin, and inherently different from other offerings on the market. I was smitten.
As a collector, I focus primarily on independent watchmakers and watches that are genuinely innovative. Independent watchmakers resonate more with me through their willingness to undertake difficult projects. I am drawn to F.P. Journe, MB&F, and H. Moser; brands that employ artistic vision and innovation to tell time in interesting ways, pushing both technical and aesthetic boundaries. And I love watches that are a little on the funkier side. I think it is safe to say that we can now add Bulgari to that list. It should come as no surprise that when Bulgari launched the Octo Finissimo series, I didn’t pay much attention. I associated the brand with jewelry and the watches they offered weren’t really my taste. Did
10
Clockwise from top: Octo Finissimo Steel 103297, Octo Finissimo 103286, Octo Finissimo Skeleton 103126, Octo Finissimo Titanium 102713
Bulgari warrant consideration within the realm of “innovative horology”? But I couldn’t help myself. There was something familiar about the Octo Finissimo, something so “normal,” and yet a far cry from the watches I previously associated with the Bulgari name. The squared-off case had clearly been designed with Gérald Genta in mind, the legendary designer who not only designed the Royal Oak and the Nautilus, but also the Bulgari Bulgari watch. Genta’s influence in the Octo Finissimo series is clear. While the Octo Finissimo was intriguing, I still didn’t know if it was a watch I could fall in love with. I was unfamiliar with Bulgari’s standards of watchmaking;
THE COLLECTOR’S JOURNAL | THEWATCHBOX.COM
did the movements technically match the outstanding design of the case and bracelet? When a colleague asked me what I thought about the collection, I began to read and study as much as I could on the Octo Finissimo series. I scoured the internet, watched YouTube videos, and absorbed all of Tim Mosso’s coverage of these watches. My preconceptions of the brand began to wear away, exposing exceptional manufacturing and craftsmanship. These watches are a wonder of modern watchmaking; technical prowess and serious complications while maintaining that ultra-thin profile and on-the-wrist comfort. The comfort level of the bracelet is actually hard to put into words. On the wrist, the watch simply disappears. This is the highest compliment I can pay to a watch; that while I know it is on my wrist, I simply forget that I’m wearing it; and then each time I glance down and am reminded, I just have to smile. It moves with you, easily fits beneath a shirt cuff, and flows perfectly from the case. This union of the case and bracelet adds to the architectural feeling of the watch, creating infinite angles from which to study the timepiece. Oozing sportiness, the taper of the bracelet with scalloped links allows your wrist to breathe, making it not only a fantastic sport watch, but an amazing piece for hotter days. When had Bulgari so dramatically stepped up their watch game? Enter Baselworld 2014. Bulgari’s Octo Finissimo Tourbillon was introduced as the world’s thinnest tourbillon. In 2016, they set the record for the thinnest ever minute repeater, at 1.95 and 3.12 millimeters thick, respectively. And they have since
By cutting out indicators on the dial of the Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater, Bulgari was able to amplify its clear, crisp chime.
“THIS UNION OF THE CASE AND BRACELET ADDS TO THE ARCHITECTURAL FEELING OF THE WATCH, CREATING INFINITE ANGLES...”
achieved several world records with each addition to the line. The first Octo I fell in love with was the Octo Finissimo Automatic Rose Gold. Paper thin and a sandblasted rose gold case and matching bracelet? Count me in! The sandblasted rose gold offers a texture and a visual appeal that I have rarely found in new watches. I adore vintage gold for its warmth and toned-down character, and Bulgari nailed it with the sandblasted finish. While it disappears under a shirt cuff and may look dressy, this is a sports watch I wouldn’t hesitate to wear with any outfit. With an automatic micro-rotor movement that comes in at just 2.23 millimeters and manages a 60-hour power reserve, I again, find myself astounded. The next Octo Finissimo to win my affection was the Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Automatic. The skeletonization is mesmerizing, with the gears and tourbillon displayed for your viewing pleasure. What really sealed the deal was the wafer-thin profile… and then I remembered that this watch also houses a tourbillon. It is unbelievable! The thin construction of the movement relies on an automatic winding system with a peripheral oscillating weight, and the crown does not pull out, but rather uses a pusher on the case to change its function from time setting to winding. The skeletonized movement features incredible handfinishing, and makes you feel like you are truly wearing a piece of horological history. The last of the Octo Finissimo series to win me over forever was the Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater. Bulgari did something incredibly interesting with
Octo Finissimo Automatic 102912
Which of the record-breaking Octo Finissimo models leaves the greatest impression on you? Take a screenshot, check your favorite, and share!
this watch. Because of it’s insane 6.85mm thin, svelte frame, Bulgari actually cut out the indices in the dial to enhance the sound of the repeater. The sound this tiny watch produces is spectacular. It is clear, crisp, and louder than most repeaters from brands with serious experience producing minute repeaters. The Octo Finissimo series is serious watchmaking. I believe Bulgari set out to design a watch that had influences from architecture, their own jeweled history, and the watches of both Daniel Roth and Gerald Genta. What they actually created, for me, is a revolution in watchmaking. A “jewelry brand” that has created some of the world’s thinnest movements and has been recognized with GPHG awards, these geometric watches are not only aesthetically beautiful; they are technically innovative and well worth consideration.
Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Manual
Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater
Octo Finissimo Automatic
Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Automatic
Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic
Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Chronograph Skeleton Automatic
Send your answers to journal@thewatchbox.com or tag your posts @watchbox and #watchbox on Instagram.
FOR SALES INQUIRIES, CONTACT JOURNAL@THEWATCHBOX.COM
11
Endless Discovery
WatchBox is home to the greatest collection of luxury watches, all certified authentic and collector quality. Each week, Brian Govberg convenes a selection on From the Vault for a discussion of collecting, trends, and market developments, centered around highlights pulled from the vault. For expert advice and sales inquiries contact your client advisor at journal@thewatchbox.com.
UNITED STATES +1 866 858 8434 | HONG KONG +852 5804 3363 | SINGAPORE +65 9662 5466 | MIDDLE EAST +971 4 2841661 | SWITZERLAND +41 32 722 12 80
Shop the collection
12
VACHERON CONSTANTIN
F.P. JOURNE
Overseas Chronograph Reference: 49150/B01J-9215
Octa UTC
ROLEX
H. MOSER & CIE.
DAY-DATE 40 Reference: 228235
Endeavour Centre Seconds Blue Lagoon Reference: 1200-1213
THE COLLECTOR’S JOURNAL | THEWATCHBOX.COM
PATEK PHILIPPE
ROLEX
Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Reference 5270J-001
GMT-Master II Reference 126755SARU
A. LANGE & SÖHNE
PATEK PHILIPPE
Grand Lange 1 “Lumen” Reference 117.035
Grand Complications Minute Repeater Reference 5078P-001
currently seeking WatchBox meticulously curates its collection so you can cultivate yours. Our client advisors and watch buyers in the United States, Switzerland, Asia, and Dubai are committed to helping you discover the perfect timepiece for your collection. Our inventory is ever evolving as WatchBox acquires exceptional watches each day, and Mike Manjos turns his attention to specific references we are seeking every week on Market Wrap.
A. LANGE & SÖHNE Double Split
ROLEX
Explorer II Ref. 16570
F.P. JOURNE
Chronomètre Bleu
PATEK PHILIPPE Perpetual Calendar Reference 3940
FOR SALES INQUIRIES, CONTACT JOURNAL@THEWATCHBOX.COM
13
IN CONVERSATION
A FEW QUESTIONS WITH DYNAMIC COLLECTOR @SHANI.WATCH
WHAT WAS YOUR FIRST WATCH; AND DO YOU STILL HAVE IT? My first watch was a stainless steel, 38mm, Tag Heuer Chronograph 1/10th Second (CAL.251.262) and yes, I still have it. WHAT WATCH IS AT THE TOP OF YOUR CURRENT WATCH WISH LIST? The new F.P. Journe Resonance (series RQ) and the anticipated Roger Smith Series 6. WHAT IS A PIECE OF “COLLECTING ADVICE” YOU ARE GLAD YOU IGNORED? Buy vintage Rolex... WHAT IS YOUR MOST CHERISHED WATCH-RELATED MEMORY? Designing my Roger Smith Series 2 over the phone with Roger and flying to the Isle of Man to meet him for the first time, visit his workshop, and pick up my Series 2.
“Mike’s passion for collecting and independent watchmaking is contagious!”
COMING SOON
A conversation with @shani.watch and Director of Sales + Watch Buying, George Mayer
ARE YOU A “COLLECTOR” OF ANYTHING ELSE? Yes, shoes/boots – bespoke or made-to-order WHAT’S THE LAST GREAT BOOK YOU READ? “Be Water, My Friend: The Teachings of Bruce Lee” by Shannon Lee WHAT SHOW ARE YOU MID-BINGE ON? Cobra Kai
14
THE COLLECTOR’S JOURNAL | THEWATCHBOX.COM
Concept to creation is typically an 8-week process.
Artist of the House A LITTLE MORE ON OUR FAVORITE HOROLOGICAL ILLUSTRATOR, SUNFLOWERMAN
An eye for style and culture, Sunflowerman is a self-described ‘fashion artist born with a pencil in his hand.’ Across the WatchBox ecosystem, he is regarded as our favorite horological illustrator. Currently grounded in Texas, Sunflowerman has traversed the world with a suitcase full of art supplies, capturing both detailed form, and the intangible qualities of the timepieces we adore. Sunflowerman on painting watches I love the beauty and emotion of watch culture. We have these objects of engineering and obsession and desire that are able to carry generations of history and design. Like watches, my paintings are an homage to the human experience. Sunflowerman on wish lists Building igloos and snowmen and snowball fights while my toes have turned blue and my fingers are biting with the cold are all warm memories for me. In my mid-20’s, a Seiko 7009 A1 and I began an on again off again affair. With a softly textured eggshell dial and years of micro scratches on the crystal casting a thousand miniature shadows it seems, at a glance you’d almost swear it had a snowflake dial. Fate has been preparing me to fall in love with the Grand Seiko SBGA211.
Sunflowerman’s preferred mediums: watercolor, ink and gouache on watercolor paper.
SUNFLOWERMAN
FOR SALES INQUIRIES, CONTACT JOURNAL@THEWATCHBOX.COM
15