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Small Fries

Small Fries

For more than 25 years, the West Chester Growers Market has provided fresh local produce, artisanal products, and a strong sense of community in the heart of the borough

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It’s early Saturday morning in West Chester. The streets in the heart of the borough are uncharacteristically quiet, drenched in that elusive, beautiful stillness that only appears just before the day begins.

A handful of early risers walk to their morning shifts at the breakfast joints and bakeries in town, while dedicated runners round their routes down streets and alleys, and pet owners take their pups out for their morning walks. But for the most part, West Chester’s main corridors of Market, Gay, and High Streets remain relatively still—a stark contrast to the bustling crowds that usually fill the sidewalks on any given afternoon, evening, and certainly at night.

Yet, on the corner of Church and Chestnut Streets, Saturday mornings typically host a very different scene. Within the corner parking lot at this intersection, a gathering is brewing; one that’s abuzz with friendly chatter and the anticipation of communal exchange, as a group of local vendors made up of farmers, horticulturists, artisans, distillers, bakers, and even a beekeeper prepare to bring their goods to market.

Box trucks back into parking spaces to be unloaded, tents begin to rise one by one in orderly rows, and tables quickly fill up with all kinds of fruits, vegetables, flowers, syrups, honey, meats, and many more handcrafted and locally grown goods. As the setup unfolds, these vendors exchange warm greetings with each other, and eager customers begin to arrive with their bags and hand-drawn wagons in tow. This cheery early-morning commotion is a cherished one, for it signals the arrival of a long-running borough staple, the West Chester Growers Market.

Established in 1995, the West Chester Growers Market is a unique fixture of the borough. It is Chester County’s original producer-only market and has met regularly on Saturdays at the same corner for the last 28 years. From the beginning, the Market’s goals were sim- ple and forthright: to create vending opportunities for local farmers, and to bring quality local fruits and vegetables into local communities.

During the winter of 1995 it was clear that West Chester was in need of a revitalization effort, and the Borough was considering the idea of introducing a farmers’ market to town. By July, the West Chester Growers Market officially opened in Parking Lot 10, right in the heart of downtown.

“There were no farmers markets in the area at all at the time,” explained Lisa Ruch, one of the founding members of the Market and co-owner of North Star Orchard located in Cochranville.

“[The Growers Market] was a way to provide an outlet for farmers and was also a good opportunity for customers.”

According to the Chester County Conservation District, Chester County is responsible for the majority of mushroom production in the United States, and historically has been home to a large number of dairy farms, horse farms, Amish and Mennonite farms, nurseries, and specialty farms. With such a strong agricultural presence in the region, it only made sense to create a market that provided direct access to the foods grown and produced locally within the county, as well as a place that fostered interactions between farmer and customer.

However, despite the best of intentions, finding a location for their new venture proved to be a challenge. After fielding rejections from two other local communities, the Market’s founding members decided to submit a letter of inquiry to the Borough of West Chester during the winter of 1995 to see if there would be interest in hosting a growers’ market—and it turned out to be a match. At the time, West Chester’s downtown was in need of a revitalization effort, and the Borough was considering the idea of introducing a farmers’ market to town. By July, the West Chester Growers Market officially opened in Parking Lot 10, right in the heart of downtown.

“Since we were spearheading the whole thing in this area, it took some convincing, but I think we did a really good job,” said Ruch, “The town [of West Chester] was supportive. There weren’t any local [markets to serve as] examples back then, and now there are plenty.” As it turned out, the Market’s presence sparked somewhat of a local food movement, and since then many farmers markets have popped up in nearby towns. The movement’s influence even went beyond the marketplace and contributed to the growth of small farms, as well as attracting many artisans to the region.

When the Growers Market first started, it counted 10 farmers in its ranks, and many had to be recruited.

That number has since grown into an impressive roster of over 30 vendors who hail from three different states: Pennsylvania, Delaware, and New Jersey. These vendors come from a variety of agricultural and culinary backgrounds and include (but aren’t limited to) produce farmers, flower farmers, bakers and bread makers, honey and syrup makers, delis and caterers, and a number of artisans who offer handcrafted products ranging from tea and coffee to cider and chili sauces. And now, instead of needing to track down farmers to join, the Market has become so popular that its tents fill the parking lot, and they often put prospective vendors on a waiting list.

The Market is strictly producer-only, and that means vendors must either grow or make 100% of the products that they’re selling. When considering new vendors, the Market’s members' approach is product-driven. Members will review the prospective vendor’s product line, how it will fit into the market, and check if there is space available. Sometimes, if an existing vendor is leaving, they will prioritize replacing the departing product line, or consider a product that might be complementary.

“If we have space and there are vendors [on the waiting list] that we want to explore further, then those vendors are invited to our annual meeting to give a pitch to the group so we can hear what they’re all about,” said Ruch. This vetting process stems from the Market’s selfrun organizational structure. “We are one of the few markets that’s completely vendor-run,” Ruch continued. “We are a democratic group, whereas other mar- kets may be run by individuals or corporations. We want to see the Market succeed. Every member has a vote.” Certainly, this careful curation of goods and products over the years has helped the Market to continue to thrive and grow.

We are a democratic group, whereas other markets may be run by individuals or corporations. We want to see the Market succeed.

Every member has a vote.

-Lisa Ruch, Northstar Orchard

While its vendor-run approach may have been born out of keen business sense, it has also allowed for the Market and its members to stay rooted in the community. Its motto is “Shake the hand that feeds you” and the Market truly operates by that mantra.

When shopping, customers have the opportunity to meet and speak directly with the farmer or artisan who cultivated the product of interest and establish a relationship that can’t be made while simply visiting a grocery store. Along with the quality of foods, it’s this direct access to the producer that makes the Market so special.

“We enjoy the relationship with the customers,” said Axel Lindenhof, owner of Lindenhof Farm and a purveyor of meats and cheeses who has been a vendor with the Market for 15 years. Lindenhof Farm is located on 85 acres in southern Lancaster County and has been in Axel’s family for more than 50 years. Axel sells chicken, turkey, eggs, duck, and goose here, as well as USDA-inspected lamb, pork, and beef.

“It gives us satisfaction to see people walk away with good food,” Axel said. “There’s such a nice variety at the market. You can get a complete meal. It’s fun to see people interacting with each other and sharing stories. We get great feedback from customers. We get recipes and pictures—many of them we’ve known for 15 years or more.”

The importance of the community aspect of the Market is shared by many vendors who have also cultivated yearslong relationships with their customers. Beyond just a business venture, the Market has evolved into a weekly destination for both the seller and buyer, a lively outdoor hub that has become a part of the Saturday morning routine for borough residents of all walks of life.

“The connection with people around food, sustenance, nurturance, is a wonderful thing.” said longtime vendor and local beekeeper Jeff Bryer, owner of Bryer’s Apiary in West Chester. Bryer has been beekeeping since 2000, and produces raw, unfiltered Chester County honey in a variety of containers. His honey has won numerous awards, including being named the Best of the Main Line and Western Suburbs just last year.

“For me personally, [the connection with people] rivals the business aspect. I like to sell my products and earn a living of course,” he said with a laugh. “But I really enjoy the contact with people and seeing the customers and the kids that come through [who are] interested in bees and beekeeping. I might hand over a small little honey bear to make a

Meet Your Makers

All of the following businesses, farms and artisans contribute to the Growers Market.

Amazing Acres

Goat Dairy

Applied Climatology, LLC

Big Hill Ciderworks

Big Sky Bread Co.

Blueberry Hill Farm

Bryer Apiary

Conebella Farm

Cocky Gourmet

Confections

Cook Awesome Food

Crisp Microgreens

D & V Organics

EverGreen Farm

Fahnestock's Fruit Farm

Forgedale Fungi

Honey Run Produce

Lindenhof Farm

Lizzie’s Kitchen

London Vale Farm

Manatawny Still Works

MyHouse Cookies

North Star Orchard

Nutty Novelties

Oley Valley Mushrooms

Queens Farm Produce

Rex Farm Orchard

Ridge Valley Farm

Riverside Blooms

Saginaw Ridge Farm

Saint Rocco’s Treats

S.O.B. Bacon

Tally Ho Coffee

Taste of Puebla

Vera Pasta

We have no master plan for changes. Keeping it going. Keeping the quality there. Keeping the membership and community strong.

-Jeff Bryer, Bryer Apiary

little kid happy. Or if I see someone who I know who’s having a really tough time, who may be having a personal loss in the family or something like that, to be there to provide some support is vitally important.”

Whether you walk away with a fresh dozen eggs or your very own honey bear, there’s something for everyone at the Growers Market. The Market operates on a seasonal basis. During its regular season from May to December, it is open every Saturday from 9am to 1pm. And although it’s outside, it remains open during the winter, too — albeit with a scaled-back number of vendors and limited days. From January through April the Market is open on the first and third Saturday of each month from 10am to 12pm.

As the Market looks onward to a new year, members anticipate bringing fresh harvests and foods to its customers in the coming months. So, what does the future hold? Growth is certainly on their minds, and while the idea of expansion is always aspirational, the Market will remain firmly planted at its original corner location for the foreseeable future. “We have no master plan for changes. Keeping it going. Keeping the quality there. Keeping the membership and community strong,” assured Bryer, who also serves on the Market’s board. “It’s working well. We don’t mess with success unless we need to.”

And why would you want to? After all, there’s a beauty in knowing who grows your food—not only the comfort of knowing where your food is coming from, but the camaraderie that can come from forging a connection with your local farmer or food artisan. As is the case with the Growers Market, their vendors excel at cultivating delicious local, fresh food, but also an inviting community, too. And West Chester is better for it.

To learn more about the Growers Market, its current vendors, or to apply to be a vendor, visit westchestergrowersmarket.com or follow the Grower’s Market on Facebook and Instagram @WCGROWERSMARKET story KeLLy mUrray @KELLY.MURRAY

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