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Dining Out

Dining Out

Dinner for two at some of our favorite spots for quality time and quality food.

This Month: Pietro’s Prime

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We’ve all heard the adage that you should never mix business with family, but after my recent date at Pietro’s Prime on Market Street, I was reminded that every generalization has an exception. Approaching its 15th anniversary in August, Pietro’s has made a name for itself as not only our sole steak house in West Chester, but as a premier spot for casual elegance and consistently impressive cuisine.

Marissa Giunta and Sean Powell forged their working relationship at Giunta’s Market in West Chester, gaining traction and returning customers with their prepared foods “hot bar” area. When the market closed, a lease was available on Market Street, where Murray’s Deli had created space while tastefully maintaining historic charm (original hardwood and exposed brick as far as the eye can see). The duo decided to take the plunge. The name for the restaurant was borrowed from the family’s patriarch, Marissa’s great grandfather, who emigrated from Italy.

The venture was a financial gamble, as opening a restaurant always is, but one that, through immense hard work, talent, and an all-hands-on-deck approach, has paid off. Marissa’s older brother Mark works the front desk, her mom makes many of the desserts, and there wasn’t a corner where her father hadn’t placed a snow-trimmed Christmas tree when we visited. The crew works with one mind to create an ambiance that is familial, whether you’re related or not. And isn’t that how you want to feel when dining out? Like they’re as glad to have you as you are to be there? Though the dining is elegant, the vibe is downright congenial.

Now, steak and seafood dinners are celebratory and therefore work at any time of the year, but I have to say I especially like a date at Pietro’s in the chillier months. The lighting is largely from sconces and pendants which lend that cozy glow—the one that softens laugh lines and makes all of us more attractive.

The cocktails reflect the seasons (think pear, rosemary, and cranberry), and there’s something about a well-cooked piece of meat that conjures “storing up for winter”—and it also feels far enough from bathing suit season that it’s not even a thought. I have two dates to outline for you here, and we’ll start with the special occasion date.

You’re celebrating something, even if it’s just that you got a sitter and feel low on iron. It’s been dark since 4pm, so you begin your date with an espresso martini to kick-start the conversation and because Pietro’s makes the best one in town. Crafted with freshly brewed espresso (hence the foam on top), it’s mildly sweet and expertly chilled. If you shy away from caffeine, I still recommend you start with a martini because— and this is a fact—the martini glasses at Pietro’s are larger than any other bar in town.

For your appetizer, split Pietro’s Shrimp Lejon, jumbo shrimp stuffed with a breadcrumb horseradish mixture and wrapped in a thin, lightly crisped slice of bacon. It’s served with a Sriracha Remoulade that complements perfectly, with just the right amount of kick. With about five shrimp on the plate, you can split it evenly, then commend your date’s character when he decides to generously give you the last one. Next up, the wedge salad, because you’re at a steakhouse and it’s the right order. Blessed with homemade blue cheese dressing and chunks of cheese, crisp, almost shaved bacon (no gristle) and tomatoes on the side, the salad has everything it should and nothing it should not.

Entree time. If you’re prepared to splurge (or realize life is short), order the

A Little Palate Cleanser

Homemade bleu cheese dressing and chunks of cheese, crisp, almost shaved bacon (no gristle) and tomatoes on the side, the salad has everything it should and nothing it should not.

lobster — butter-braised and meltingly tender. Another option is to share the Pietro’s Cowboy Ribeye, 20 ounces of well-seasoned, tender meat that works well to split (see “20 ounces”). Like at most steakhouses, you can customize your order. Blue cheese and onion rings on my steak, I didn’t have to think too hard about that one, and every bite had the tender meat, the tangy cheese, and a bit of onion ring to lend sweetness; my eyes were rolling back in my head. Obviously, a rich combination, so a side of asparagus was much needed. Fresh, crisp-tender, and simply done, the vegetable was a palate cleanser of sorts before I dug in for my next bite of steak. It was all so, so good. There should be no talking at this portion of the date in case you don’t know this already. Have some respect. Insider tip: Chef Powell will showcase a bone-in filet mignon whenever he can get his hands on it; it will be offered as a special. It’s can’t miss, and worth each return visit with crossed fingers.

The lobster Mac and cheese was also ordered, and I have no reasoning behind this order. It was gluttonous but I don’t regret it. Truthfully, I wanted to roll around in this Mac and cheese. It was so well seasoned, with a tiny kick at the back of your throat and an unfathomably creamy sauce.

If, at this point, there’s any room at all left in your belly, share a piece of the peanut butter pie. An Oreo crust beneath a semi-frozen peanut butter mousse and topped with crushed Reese’s peanut butter cups, the serving size is not overwhelming, so it’s the perfect two- or three-bite shared plate to end your meal. You will be full, but your palate will be more than satisfied.

Fifteen years in a competitive restaurant town is no small thing, and although I was only there for a short visit it was so clear to me how they’ve survived.

Date number two is being discussed because this restaurant is too good to only visit for special occasions. Date number two is for when you failed to make a reservation, but you want to be out, and you want to eat can’t-miss food for less “special occasion” prices. Enter the bar at Pietro’s. There is live music on Wednesdays, Fridays, and Saturdays, and the band is situated right off the bar, near the fireplace. Date number two works for those who want to spend less but also for the married couples who talk a lot and don’t necessarily need to “catch up” on their date but are happy to listen to music and feel the warmth of the fire while enjoying a spectacular meal.

There is a separate bar menu, and I encourage you to start with the blue chips or the truffle fries (guilty pleasures that are fun to share) and move on to the Kobe burger and/or the shaved prime rib sandwich. The burger here is the thing burger dreams are made of and is renowned in this town; if you haven’t had one yet then this is your main takeaway from this article: martini and burger at the bar.

The shaved prime rib sandwich is actual prime rib, so if you’re currently envisioning a roast beef sandwich, update your photo. All desserts can be served at the bar, even after the kitchen closes. Next time I’m there I plan to order the cherry ricotta cheesecake (also made by Momma Giunta) because as a little girl my own Italian grandmother would make little cheesecake bites with a cherry on top and the nostalgia is killing me. Or…the tiramisu that is made by Marissa herself.

Fifteen years in a competitive restaurant town is no small thing, and although I was only there for a short visit it was so

The Star of the Show

Cowboy Ribeye: 20 ounces of well-seasoned, tender meat that works well to split, plus bleu cheese, some onion rings and the lobster mac’ and cheese that’s got a tiny kick and an unfathomably creamy sauce. Plus some asparagus, you know, just to make it healthy.

clear to me how they’ve survived. Their return customers feel valued and truly seen the moment they walk in the door; they’re remembered and greeted with warmth.

The interaction between the staff members is so comfortable because they are, genuinely, comfortable together (and most of them are related). The air is professional because the food and service is excellent, but it’s so far from stuffy that even novice diners more comfortable with casual spots will feel at ease.

With all the charm of borough architecture, the scent of sizzling steaks greeting you upon entry, a roaring fire visible in the background and the feel of absolute certainty that you will get what you pay for until the moment you leave—a high-quality, expertly prepared, and remarkably tasty meal.

BOYD @homebeccanomics

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