The observer issue 9

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The Observer

The Observer An IIJNM publication

Future of football in India is bright, says Manchester City FC coach | P 2

Vol 17, Issue 9

@theweeklyobserver On the Web: issuu.com/ theweeklyobserver/docs/ the_observer and theweeklyobserver.in

Thursday, October 12, 2017

Despite govt’s ban, loose cigarettes and beedis still sold in Bengaluru | P 3

Tailpipe emissions suffocate Bengaluru BMTC buses top polluters | Citizens also to be blamed because they don’t get vehicles serviced on time Arlene Mathew arlene.m@iijnm.org

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t’s a familiar sight in Bengaluru: Vehicles emitting black smoke speeding by as police look the other way. The smoke, which is caused by unburned fuel, contains hydrocarbons in the form of diesel particulate matter (DPM). According to studies by the National Center for Biotechnology Information, Maryland, US, DPM is a mixture of solid and liquid particles suspended in air that contribute to pollution. The problem is common in diesel vehicles. A minor repair can, in most cases, resolve the issue. “Petroleum smoke can lead to cancer. It also leads to chronic bronchitis, cough and breathing difficulty,” Dr Priya Ramachandran, consultant pulmonologist at St John’s Hospital, he informed. “When the sky is clear and the temperature high, these exhaust gases clear up quickly. But when it is cloudy, most of the exhaust stays, and we end up inhaling it. Most respiratory diseases are caused by industrial and vehicular smoke.”

Doctors say smoke from exhaust pipes can cause chronic bronchitis, cough and difficulty in breathing. Carbon monoxide in the smoke prevents oxygen from reaching body tissues | Credit: : Rimjhim Gour Black smoke is emmitted by fastly driven vehicles. “Many BMTC buses emit dark smoke,” says Aswin M., a digital

marketing agent. The smoke stays in the air for long after the vehicles have passed. People who cover their faces still end up in-

haling the noxious fumes. Asked if police have taken any measures to regulate vehicles emitting black smoke, Kengeri

traffic sub- inspector PN Manjunath, replied in the positive. “Of course, we take it very seriously. We levy a fine of Rs 100 if we find any vehicle being driven around in that condition. All vehicles must possess the emission test certificate; else they are fined Rs 2,000.” Vehicles emit black smoke because their owners fail to service them on time, the officer added. While black smoke poses a big hazard, invisible fumes also pollute the environment and increase the risk of illnesses. Carbon monoxide, one of the invisible gases emitted by vehicles, combines with hemoglobin to produce carboxyhemoglobin, which is ineffective for delivering oxygen to bodily tissues. In 2011, 52% of carbon monoxide emissions were created by mobile vehicles in the US, according to the United States Environmental Protection Agency. Other harmful gases emitted by vehicles are mono-nitrogen oxides, cardon dioxide and ozone (which irritates the respiratory system when present at the ground level). Experts say it’s high time we hastened the move to eco-friendly vehicles. Better we listened.

City receives uneven rain ‘Bengaluru will be Anjana Basumatary anjana.b@iijnm.org

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espite the end of the southwest monsoon, Bengaluru is receiving rainfall due to three factors: Uneven distribution of cyclone circulation, a trough of low pressure and high pressure, and the meeting of easterly and westerly winds. The city will have cloudy weather with thunderstorms till Monday, according to the website accuweather.com. The rain in August and September beat some records. For example, on the night of August 14-15, Bengaluru received 128.7 mm of rain — the highest in a day in 127 years. With the rain have come problems the city is no stranger to. The quality of roads has taken a beating, with potholes appearing all over the city. Filled with water, these craters have cause

Commuting has become an ordeal because roads have taken a beating | Credit: Anjana Basumatary several accidents in the past week. Storm water drains have overflowed. In many parts, like Ejipura, roads under sewage that come to the surface because broken drains have overflowed. Dengue cases have increased.

Sundar M Metri, director and scientist at the Meteorological Department, informed The Observer that southern India receives rain during October-November. This is the Northeast monsoon, which comes after the southwest monsoon recedes. The main reason for the heavy rain is that when the southwest monsoon enters the southern India, it brings some contents to the land that, in turn, bring cyclone circulation, low- and high-pressure troughs. “The east-west meeting system which has to enter from the southwest, was not seen. Therefore, uneven distribution of rainfall has been noticed,”he added. “There is a rise in temperature during summer, which is due to global warming. And global warming is caused by the growth of industrialization, greenhouse gases, vehicles and release of methane, sulphur dioxide and carbon dioxide from industries.”

unlivable by 2025’

Rachel Priyanka Dammala dammala.r@iijnm.org

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ere’s bad news for India’s technology hub: A research paper recently published in ‘Current Science’ says Bengaluru will become uninhabitable by 2025. The grim picture has been painted by researchers T.V. Ramachandra, an ecological scientist from the Indian Institute of Science, and Bharath H. Aithal from IIT, Kharagpur. The paper says the causes for their inference are: Depletion of natural resources, disappearing lakes, increased carbon footprint, among other reasons. Aithal informed The Observer: “We live on a hill (a reference to the height at which Bengaluru is

located) and need to pump water up. For that, we need electricity and have no surplus of that. Even if we source water from other rivers, that will suffice for not more than three years. The cost of living in Bengaluru is very high. Basic amenities like water, electricity and shelter are not at their best, and Bengaluru’s population is going up by 5% every year. In a few years, we will make it a dead city.” Asked if there’s anything that can be done to save the situation, he replied: “First, we need to decongest Bengaluru. Why do we need everything in Bengaluru? We need to divert talent to Mysuru and other cities. Second, we need to bring back our natural drainage systems. >>Political will needed, page 3


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The Observer Thursday, October 12, 2017

India has a bright future Little relief from VTU, students in football, says coach continue protests of Manchester City FC Barnana Hemoprava Sarkar barnana.h@iijnm.org

Athul M athul.m@iijnm.org

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orking with the British Council, the Sports Authority of India (SAI) and the Indian Super League (ISL), the Premier League has led numerous Premier Skills projects in India since the inception of the programme in 2017. It has trained more than 1,000 Indian coaches and referees. This year’s premier camp is under way at SAI’s Bengaluru centre. The camp consists of English Premier League’s coaching staff like Paul Hughes (Chelsea), Carl Bruke (Manchester City) and Kerry Green (Arsenal). Bruke shares his thoughts about Indian football and coaching in a conversation with The Observer. He congratulated the Indian men’s team for making it to the 100th spot in the World

Observer interview Fifa rankings in May along with Nicaragua, Lithuania and Estonia. Excerpts: Q: How does it feel to be in India? A: India is fantastic as ever. It’s my second visit here. India has really good football prodigies. Q: How are the Indian coaches responding to the camp? A: Well, they are passionate about the game and always ready to learn. This is fun with these guys out here. Q: What does the future of Indian football look to you right now?

Indian coaches train under Carl Bruke, who is among the Manchester.City coaching staff, at SAI, Bengaluru, as a part of the Premier skill camp in the city. | Credit: Athul M OTHER VOICES The camp is instilling a lot of confidence in coaches from across the country. I am confident it would reflect on their outputs as coaches. English Premier League-style coaching is a fantastic experience for me.” – Adul Nisam, coach from Wayanad FC/Al-e-Itihad Sports Academy It’s contributing to shaping a wonderful football culture from the grassroots level.” – Sai Abhinav, a representative of the Telangana Football Association

A: Ever since the inception of ISL in 2013, some brilliant talents have sprung from different parts of this beautiful country. Lalruatthara (Kerala Blasters FC) and Anas Edathodika (Delhi Dynamos FC) are examples. The

fight India put up against Colombia (he was referring to ongoing under-17 Fifa World Cup in India) was very inspiring. I wish India all the best. Q: How important is this global exposure to the Indian football fraternity? A: It’s a healthy atmosphere out here. If you look at where India stands in global football level (the country stays at 107th position according to the current Fifa rankings for men’s football teams), I think they have good prospects. I see a bright future. Q: How do you rate the coaching standards? A: Well, to be frank it needs improvement. Sometimes it falls flat. But that’s why we are here. We will get things fixed.

NGO gives a new lease of life to children of waste collectors Arlene Mathew arlene.m@iijnm.org

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Bengaluru NGO has taken upon itself a responsibility perhaps nobody had thought of. Buguri, a community library started by volunteers of the NGO, Hasirudala, educates children of waste collectors around Banashankari. Pallavi Chander, a volunteer, shared her experience at Buguri with The Observer. The idea of Buguri was conceived by Lakshmi Karunakaran, who works for Hasirudala. “We wanted to bring the children out of the issues within their community, so that they could imagine other realities for themselves,” Pallavi said.

“Not many are bothered about how these children grow up.” Child marriage and substance abuse are rampant problems in the community, she shared. The library, started on January 26, has 45 children in the 4-16 age group. The volunteers conduct sessions like book discussions, tell-back sessions, art sessions and drama sessions. “At school, our teachers shout and punish us, but here they are very understanding and patient,” a sixth grader who attends Buguri said. “The children are eager, and come up with most of the ideas for the next class,” said Pallavi, smiling. “Currently, they are working on a play based on their idea.” Funded by corporates, Buguri

A drama session at Buguri | Credit: Arlene Mathew hopes to find more support to expand the library. Buguri, which means ‘spinning top’ in Kannada, has lived up to the children’s expectations. The initiative, however, needs more volunteers and donors to keep it going.

tudents of the Visvesvaraya Technological Institute are still protesting to demand exemption to all the batches from the Choice-Based Credit System (CBCS). Last month, the university had modified the ‘year back’ concept for the academic year 2017-18, to give students relief from CBCS. The batches admitted in 2010, 2011, 2012 and 2013 were to follow the non-CBCS system. The university changed the rule in 2014; it decided to follow the model system. In 2015, VTU went back to CBCS. On September 1, the students staged a protest. One of their demands was that no student should lose a year. The VTU executive committee decided to give relief to non-CBCS batches between 2010 and 2014. However, due to the exit scheme – which says that the overall academic term of a student would range up to eight years – there was not much change, Christian Almeida, president of NSUI’s Udupi district unit, informed The Observer. “Due to the complicated syllabus, around 60% of the students have failed. Those who have failed have to join the batch which is still following CBCS.” As a result, these students are forced to study under both CBCS and non-CBCS. This has created tremendous confusion among the students, Almeida added. The September 1 protest had also demanded the removal of the year back system. The executive committee, consisting of vicechancellor Karisidappa and registrar Satish Angeri, turned that demand down.

The students have another complaint: They do not receive their results until the last month of the semester, leaving them on tenterhooks. Besides withdrawal of the year back system, they are demanding the introduction of supplementary exams. Shravan Kumar, a student of the final year of the 2010 scheme, said: “Students are left in a dilemma whether they should attend classes or not.”

There is confusion among the students because VTU has changed its decisions | Credit: Barnana Hemoprava Sarkar The Karnataka High Court has allowed 29 students to attend classes of their next semester. But those unaware of legal procedures are still at home. Dr Ashwath, faculty and head of the department of civil engineering, refused to answer questions. The Vice Chancellor and the registrar have refused to take calls on the matter.

‘Political will alone can help’ >>Continued from page 1 hird, we need to expand the Metro and means of public transport to every nook and corner…. This is will help bring down air pollution and make places like Majestic and others less crowded,” researcher Bharat H Aithal said. “Political will alone can help achieve this. People need more basic amenities, not free WiFi. If other countries are able do it, why can’t Bengaluru?” the researchers added. Two citizens The Observer spoke with had a different take on the issue. Akshita Rajendra, a nutritionist, said “Even if the city becomes unlivable, neither the people of Bengaluru nor the migrants will leave the place, because it is us that ask for better infrastructure and complain later. I will wear a

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mask and travel, but not leave the city.” Using public transport will help undo some damage. Another Bengalurean and IT professional, Pratyusha Apidepally, concurred with Rajendra. “Cabs sure are very convenient… , but it is they that add to pollution. Using public transport will help curb further deterioration. Asked what went wrong with Bengaluru’s growth while the other metros are doing better, Ms. Apidepally explained, “The planners/engineers of the city should also keep in mind another 50-60 years and the consequences their plans could bring about to the city in the long run” While the scientists and environmentalists believe that Bengaluru is going downhill, it is for our government and the people to arrest the decline.


CITY

The Observer Thursday, October 12, 2017

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What ban? Loose cigarettes and beedis are still sold across city Vendors say they will be hit if they don’t sell these Ayushi Singh ayushi.s@iijnm.org

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espite the Karnataka government’s ban on the sale of loose cigarettes and beedis, most paan shops and tea stalls are selling them. While most have chosen to ignore the ban, some are unaware of it. Rathna, a tea stall owner in Rajajinagar, informed The Observer that she had heard about the ban a few days ago, but was not aware that the ban has been brought into effect. People stop at her shop, the only one on a 2-km stretch, to buy loose cigarettes. They smoke there before leaving. When asked by The Observer whether they were aware of the ban, most replied in the affirmative. They buy a cigarette or two, instead of buying a whole packet, which costs a lot,- they said. P. Muniswami, a paan shop owner in Malleswaram, said: “I

Shopkeepers choose to continue selling loose cigarettes and beedis as they fear the loss in income | Credit: Ayushi Singh am aware of the ban, but I own a small shop and most of my income comes from the sale of loose cigarettes and beedis, and tea.” Very few people stop at these shops to buy paan; they ask for cigarettes, beedis or tea. Ajaz Khan a resident of Koramangala who smokes regularly, said: “The government might

have banned the sale of loose cigarettes with a good cause —discouraging the use of tobacco — but people like me... won’t be able to reduce or quit smoking. I won’t mind buying a whole pack.” Santhosh, owner of Sanvi Juice and Chat shop in Koramangala, says that he is aware of the ban. Selling loose cigarettes fetches

him more cash than eatables. If he stops selling loose items, he said, his customer base would drop to four or five people who buy whole packs. A smoker who didn’t want to be named told The Observer that no vendor has so far refused to sell him loose cigarettes, even though it has been a fortnight since the ban came into effect. “Buying a whole packet won’t help reduce smoking; it will, instead, increase tobacco intake. People can control smoking when they buy a single cigarette at a time. Having a whole packet in hand will force them to smoke more,” he said. The shop of Hanmanth Raiappa, a tea vendor in Russell Market, Shivajinagar, always has people stopping by to smoke a cigarette or a beedi.“We poor people find it very difficult to match our expenses with whatever we earn, most of which comes from selling loose cigarettes and beedis,” he said. “If the government wants to reducetobacco usage, it should start by asking the manufacturers to stop manufacturing these products instead of banning the sale of loose products,”he added.

Citizens of Bengaluru become eco-friendly this Diwali Debanjali Kabiraj debanjali.k@iijnm.org

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his Diwali, many Bengalureans have taken a pledge to say no to harmful chemicals. They are looking forward to celebrating an environment-friendly Diwali. As the Festival of Lights draws closer, there is a buzz in stores selling home décor items. These shops sell eco-friendly items like clay diyas, jute lamps, floating diyas, clay idols and fairy lights. People seem to favour these items over firecrackers. The shops also have gifts items like jute bags and pouches, and scented candles. Organic colours are available for rangoli decorations. Home decors like toran (door hangings), windchimes and jute lamps are quite popular nowadays due to Diwali. People are drawn towards gifts like jute jew-

Borrow a human book, shed biases Victims of social prejudices are ‘read’ at the Human Library Barnana Hemoprava Sarkar barnana.h@iijnm.org

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engaluru becomes one of the first cities in India, after Hyderabad, Chennai and Delhi, to come up with a unique concept: the Human Library. People can borrow a human book and read their stories through their narration. The goal is to challenge prejudices and stereotypes in society. The first Human Library event in Bengaluru, featuring seven titles, was held on August 27. People were asked to select any human book they wanted and spend 20-30 minutes with it. Roshni, an organizer of the Human Library in the city, informed The Observer: “We let regular people come to share their stories, people whom you wouldn’t speak to on a regular basis, extremely ordinary people.” People who come are from different professional backgrounds: Journalists, software engineers, bloggers and professors. Each participant at the event is given a name such as “Survivor” or “Warrior”; the real name is not revealed.

People gather at the Human Library to learn the stories of others | Credit: Barnana Hemoprava Sarkar Participants are put together in or a football fan hearing a a small space for a long time, forc- feminist speak about her ideoling them to converse. There could ogy. The response from the audibe a policeman listening to the ence has been positive. hardships of a graffiti artist; a Jayati, one of the readers, said: politician interacting with a “It has given us an opportunity to young activist on social issues; interact with different people.

This experience teaches you how different everyone is, yet how similar we all are.” There were some who attended the three-hour event only to listen; they didn’t open up. But they later said they were glad to know that there are several people like them, people who have problems similar to theirs. Deepika Singhania, an organizer, said: “We executed this program because the world could do with a little bit of storytelling and positivity. We don’t have much time for these. So listening to a story and learning how to accept each other is something people can do with.” The Human Library helps the present cope with itself better. It encourages people to come forward and tell their stories to unknown people. “It’s comforting to know that you’re not the only one,” said one of the readers who chose to remain unnamed. The Human Library event in Bengaluru is held once every month on rooftops, in gardens, and at performance spaces. The Human Library, also known as Menneskibiblioteket in Danish, originally developed in Copenhagen. Members of an NGO called ‘Stop the Violence’ came up with the project at the Roskilde festival in Denmark. The original event was open for eight hours a day for four days, and featured more than 50 titles.

A GREEN DIWALI: Eco-friendly diyas made of clay are quite popular this Diwali season | Credit: Debanjali Kabiraj ellery, jute stands, jute bags and pouches. Nasreen Khan, owner of Jute Cottage, informed The Observer that she has received many customers who shown interest in ecofriendly items. “Due to demonetization and GST, sales have gone down. People are buying hand-made items but only those priced moderately.” Asked by how awareness about a non-polluting Diwali can be spread, Nasreen Khan said: “Everything starts at home. One has to accept this approach to Diwali and start practising it. Only then can awareness be spread.” But there are some people who said they would follow the traditional way of celebrating the Festival of Lights. Nirmala P, a shopkeeper, said that she does not know about eco-friendly Diwali. She and her family will celebrate Diwali as they have always done: With firecrackers.


Arts & Culture

The Observer SUPPLEMENT

Thursday, October 12, 2017

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Our Graveyards of History We disrespect our history when we neglect our museums, says Saiqua Sultan

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angalore is a young city that lives in the present. fee has been raised to Rs.20 and 69,698 people have visDespite the efforts of Kannada scholars and the ited so far. city’s cultural elites to remind us of the city’s preIn a bid to make the visit more engaging,the museum colonial, medieval past, young people would rather believe provides visitors with a free mobile app calledPinakinthat Bangalore was founded by the IT companies that provide works as a tourist guide. Plug in your ear phones and listen today’s jobs and is watered by the numerous pubs that dot to the stories behind the sculptures and paintings on disits gritty cityscape. The indifference to the past is exemplified by the fate of the Government Museum situated on Kasturba Road in the city centre.Established in the second half of the 19th century under the stewardship of Scottish surgeon Edward Balfour, Bangalore Museum is the oldest museum in South India after Chennai. Despite its striking neo-classical style and ochre-red hue, the building stands with a forlorn and forgotten look on its façade. On entering the museum, the signs of neglect are everywhere. The halls are dimly lit, the paint work is chipped in places and mold is creeping along the ceiling. A feeling of gloom and disrepair engulfs the antique artifacts housed within its walls, whether they are intricately carved sculptures, Deccan-style paintings or myriad ancient artifacts dating Bangalore Museum at Kasturba Road from prehistory.“Oh, people come, but not as many as you think. We see more foreigners than Indians play. It’s in fact an indispensableaid as there’s little other here,”says a useum official. “We see students and teachers information available about the exhibits. coming on some weekdays for short excursions.” Indian history goes back thousands of years and museA plan to renovate the museum is underway but would ums around the country are treasure troves of numerous a new coat of paint be enough to help the museum attract relics that record this extraordinary past. If developed more visitors? Last year the museum saw around 122,000 along the lines of their more famous counterparts like the footfalls when the entry fee was Rs.4. This year the entry Louvre in Paris or Metropolitan Museum of Art in New

York, India’s museums could becomemagnetsfor both domestic and foreign tourists. In fact, these museums are virtually synonymous with theirhost cities and are usually the tourist’s first call. Most museums in Europe and the U.S. are privately funded and that helps the museums to a great degree. In fact, patronage and art go hand in hand. The world’s most famous museums are massively endowed by their richest citizens and one sees scores of private owners lending their collections to be displayedto the public. But we rarely see this in our country. India’s rich and famous do a lot topromote the country’s vast cultural heritage, including preserving buildings and monuments and the many art forms that could otherwise have died out. But somehow their largesse doesn’t seem to extend to these historical repositories. n the 12th Plan, the union ministry of culture proposed a public-private partnership model for museumfunding. Though the plan could prove a godsend for the country’s neglected museum infrastructure, we’re yet to see any concrete results. Waiting patiently in that long queue to renovate and rejuvenate itself in the hope of attracting more visitors stands Bangalore’s forlorn Government Museum. Where the Louvre annually sees millions of visitors from around the world, India’s museums would be grateful for even a fraction of that audience.

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Knocking on Heaven’s Door Breaking into the music industry has never been easy but without independent labels it would be all but impossible, writes Barnana H. Sarkar

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ndependent recording labels are helpingwould-be muWhere most independent labels do not charge the artist sicians in India record their music, reach a wider au- for making the recording, some take an advance to cover dience and begin the slow climb up the steps of the producing and marketing costs. They promote the artist’s ‘Indie Charts’. Ennui.Bomb, which has been around since music songs on their label’s playlists and jukeboxes and 2004, has been a major part of the burgeoning independent also through online media as such YouTube and Sound scene. Cloud. They have retained their reputation for quality,for being Says Hemant Gairola, a former member of the indie-pop genre-free and uncompromising when it comes to promot- band Ragasur, “They are definitely helping. You must be ing good music. They produce a compilation of fresh aware of Prateek Kuhad, a young singer-songwriter based music every year called “Stupidities.” in Delhi/Gurgaon. He came into the limelight when his Friday Night Originals, an independent label set up by songs soared to top ranking in iTunes India sales.” Kuhad Durjoy Choudhury, a 12-year veteran of the music scene released his music through the independent label OK Liswith his band Bee and The Buskers, promotes artists ten. across the country and across genres. “Why should we It’s hard to believe, but once upon a time jazz and rock record only one person’s music when there is an entire city ‘n roll were the preserve of independent labels, which popto record?” he asks. Along with others such as Qilla Records, Lowlitt Records, High Chai Recordings and Dualism Records, these labels are redefining what it takes to succeed in the fast-changing Indian popular music scene. An ‘independent’ music label differs from the ‘major’ labels in that they pick unknown artists of their choice and record songs composed by them. These artists are typically small-time musicians trying to make a living from their music, who write their own songs but are confined to a limited audience. Independent labels seek the kind of music that has the potential to reach a larger audience. They are particular the music should not be mere covers or remixes of previous hits, that it’s absolutely original. Underground Authority at the Friday Night Originals’ studio

ularized these genres and thus planted the seeds of what would one day grow into a multi-billion dollar market. Sun Records, an independent label, for example played a major role in developing rock ’n roll into a mainstream music form. It introduced artists such as Elvis Presley, Carl Perkins, Johnny Cash and Charlie Rich to American audiences looking for something new. That initial audience wasn’t anything like what exists today: It was small but devoted. It wasn’t about mass markets and super profits but instead all about creativity, novelty, experimentation and artistic freedom. Several British producers launched independent labels as outlets for their work, for example, Joe Meek (Triumph), Andrew Oldham (Immediate) and Larry Page (Page One). These independent labels are often launched by artists who had initially recorded their songs with a major label. They are sometimes termed vanity or boutique labels, as for instance, Apple Records by The Beatles, Rolling Stone Records by The Rolling Stones and The Rocket Record Company by Elton John. he Association of Independent Music (AIM) defines a major label as a multi-national company which has more that controls 5% of the world market for the sale of records or music videos. They include Sony, Warner, Universal Music Group and T Series. The independent music scene and the recording labels that drive it receive scant recognition from the big labels. However, they remain the favored choice of young audiences-what is called the Y Generationworldwide, the music industry’s key demo graphic..

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Street Food

The Observer SUPPLEMENT

Thursday, October 12, 2017

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Where Bangalore Lives to Eat VV Puram is India in microcosm, an incredible amalgam of our culinary fantasies, says Ritika Gondhalekar

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rom the smallest Indian village to the biggest city, street food is an integral part of our lives. India’s vast array of fast food seamlessly takes over from ghar ka khana (home cooking) when anybody wants a change of flavour from the everyday food. Bangalore has countless, delicious and affordable options to fill your stomach and satisfy your wildest craving. So if you’re vegetarian, and very hungry, head straight for VV Puram. Just a 7-minute walk the KR Market metro station, VV Puram is a 300-metre stretch of food stalls selling an incredible range of cuisines from India’s north to its southern tip, and every point in between. The show begins at 5 pm with shutters being pulled up, huge pots being placed on the pavement and small hawkers jostling for space along the pavement for their carts. In no time, a typical city street bustling with pedestrians and tradesmen is transformed into a vast eatery. By 7 pm, VV Puram has become an unending feast, with not a moment’s rest for the vendors till 11:30 pm, as the crowds keepsurging through the narrow path between boiling vats of oil, hissing hotplates and mounds of sweets and saStreet vendor vories. Starting from north Indian panipuri, the street stretches all the way to the humble south Indian musorukodbale. Along the way, we encounter traditional foods like milk-dipped chirotti and holige (a local specialty). Along with the ubiquitousidlis, vadas and dosas, the vendors are busy serving Chinese snacks, corn mixtures and Rajathani food as well. The show stopper, of course, is the

nitrogen ice-cream. “We find it cool. It feels as if we are smoking!” saysHema, laughing. Potato twist is another youth-favourite in VV Puram.While the street appeals to people of all ages, most of the crowd are students, many from other cities. “We came here for the first time when one of our local friends

The regular customers, however, are the Bangaloreans. “One of my regular customers is a middle-aged couple who usually come over the weekends to relax,” says Rahul, the owner of the jilebi shop outside Vishakha Stores. Another customer, Tushar, who regularly visits Rajni Anna’s shop says, “My wife and I along without two kids come at least twice or thrice a month here as it gives my wife a break from cooking. Also we are carefree for our children’s health as this is one of the most hygienic streets we have ever been to.” ven if you are not a hardcore foodie, just the vibes and the aromas will keep you in a state of high excitement. But for the food lover, this street is the perfect example of Bangalore’s extraordinary cultural and culinary diversity. Your stomach might at some point scream,“Stop it, I can’t take it any more” but your adventurous heart will drive you ever on. It’s a profitable exercise for all concerned. Licensed shopkeepers earn over Rs. 40,000 to 45,000 a month whilesmall hawkers can make anything between Rs. 22,000 to 25,000. The shopkeepers either have to feed the policemen on duty for free or pay them a ‘rent’ of Rs.100 to 150 per day, depending on the scale of their business. VV Puram runs like a well-oiled machine, turning out incredible food in unbelievable volumes, day after day, for an army of repeat customers. That’s the true measure of its success.

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cooks up a storm on the footpath in V V Puram brought us here on a weekend,” recalls Latika, a student from Jabalpur. “Street food always attracts students like us who survive on pocket money and this place is true value for money. I must say that as compared to the amount of food we eat, we spend nothing. Just Rs.150 makes useful.”

Meals on Wheels Food trucks provide office goers convenient access to cheap food. Why arent they encouraged asks Naqshab Nisar

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ow often has your mouth watered when you hicles do not qualify as the license is meant exclusively got a whiff of delicious BBQ grilling? Has it for hawkers and vendors. In effect, although food led you to a food truck around the corner trucks operate much like street vendors, theyfunction which serves the most scrumptious burgers and fries? in a regulatory twilight zone. Have you skipped your breakfast or lunch back at home The Bangalore Food Truck Association (BFTA) just has a mouthful of that Burrito or chicken wings says food trucks require a different set ofrules and regoozing with sauce. Then you have caught the Food ulations from that of the hawkers and vendors. While Truck fever. The hub for everything street food, everythey too a space to operate from, they must be allowed thing scrumptious. to freely move around the city. Several decades ago, a food truck parked outside BFTA is thrilled at the way the business is growing the Karnataka High Court started serving idly and cofbut not having a dedicated license is a drawback. They fee. It does so to this day. But, in the last are more than ready to pay rent, give written undertakthreeyears, it’s been joined by over 80 other food trucks ings and do whatever else is required to regularize the across the city. business. The Spitfire BBQ Truck famously known for its “We have been pushing to get a license for parking smoked chicken hotdog and BBQed desserts, has taken off since its launch in Bangalore in 2014 and is soon to hit the streets of Hyderabad. Gautami Shankar and Siddhant Sawkar, who hold master’s degrees in Italian cuisine, are the chefs behind the wheel of the Spitfire BBQ truck.Truckcafe, Le CasseCroûte and S.W.A.T are now famous among food trucks popping up in office parking lots and at special events, serving tasty treats around the city. But, much as you might enjoy eating food out of the back of the truck,did you know thatthese food trucks don’t have a valid license to operate in Bangalore? Currently they operate witha hawkers’ license approved by the Food Safety and Standards Authority of India(FSSAI)issued by the state government. Under an FSSAI license, motorized ve- Spitfire BBQ’s owners take a break from work

and operating a business serving food at affordable prices for which we need the BBMP, RTO and the residents to support us,” says Spitfire’s Gautami Shankar. Recently the Bangalore municipal corporation proposed that the state government issue regulatory licenses for food trucks but hasn’t had a response. Municipal joint commissioner Sarfaraz Khan recently said, “Eighty businesses under the trade licenses, including food-truck businesses, are yet to be implemented as they are waiting for the approval from the government.” In July 2017, the urban development department published a draft notification of the common zoning regulation, under which residential roads in the city of 30 to 45 feet are to accommodate the “daily use” category of commercial establishments like milk booths, newspaper stalls. But the proposal has provoked a strong reaction from citizens and resident welfare associations who fear it will add to the congestion and garbage problems the city already faces. dmits Ruman Khan, who runs Truckcafe,“I don’t think foodtruck licensing will happen very soon as it involvescommercial activities in residential areas,which is a bigger issue to deal with..” The solution could lie in restricting food trucks to commercial areas, business districts and industrial parks during office hours and creating permanent vending zones and food parks across the city. But come what may, food trucks are here to stay.

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