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CITY FEBRUARY 20-26, 2014
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FOOD
STATE OF GRACE
BARISTA
ALLPRESS CAFÉ & ROASTERY
THE FASTEST WOMAN IN F1
SUSIE WOLFF BY SARAH MARINOS
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MCC Kew on Barkers Road is a fantastic new facility for locals, featuring six lit en-tout-cas tennis courts, three bowling greens and a modern, fully licensed two-storey clubhouse offering à la carte bistro meals from 6pm every Thursday. Group fitness (including cycling and yoga) plus bridge classes have made this venue a great addition to the MCC family. To celebrate its recent opening, MCC Kew is giving away one family membership valued at $590. www.mcckew.com.au
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A freebie that’s also 97 per cent sugar free? The Muesli is a shining, sugar-free light among the premium breakfast cereals out there. It’s packed with more of the raw, natural good stuff: five nuts, four seeds, oats, coconut and that’s it. Getting off to a healthy start each day has never tasted so good. You have a chance to win one of four delicious hampers. themuesli.com.au
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Holidays can be tarnished by nausea and vomiting, ruining what could be a perfect travel experience. If you suffer from motion sickness, Sea-Band can help. Sea-Band acupressure bands provide a way to combat motion sickness without drugs. Three TWR readers can win a Sea-Band Travel Prize Pack valued at $117.95 each, including a Sea-Band plus a $100 Red Balloon voucher to ensure you have a breathtaking travel experience! www.sea-band.com.au
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OUR COVER \ Susie Wolff photographed by Neale Haynes \ Contour by Getty Images
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FEBRUARY 20, 2014 \ The weekly review 3
SARAH MARINOS meets the fastest woman in Formula One
HIGH VELOCITY Cover Story
4 The weekly review \ FEBRUARY 20, 2014
It has been a harsh winter in Europe But on a cold January morning, Susie Wolff and her Mercedes ML63 AMG are making easy work of the autobahn that snakes between Germany and Switzerland
(©Style magazine Corriere della Sera RCS \ Daniele Barraco \ Austral)
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olff is driving from a function in Munich to her home in Ermatingen, a picture-perfect Swiss village with its own lake, forests and timber-beamed chalets. Despite the bad weather, the tricky road conditions aren’t a challenge for Wolff. In April 2012, she became development driver for the Williams F1 team, one of a handful of women to join the adrenalin-charged world of Formula One. Next month, Wolff will arrive in Melbourne as part of the Williams 2014 Formula 1 Australian Grand Prix team, and she can’t wait to hit the Albert Park circuit. “It’s the opening race so there is always so much speculation and tension,” she says. “It’s a brilliant racetrack, so I think, for a lot of people in motorsport, the Australian Grand Prix is quite special.” Since she stepped into her role at Williams, Wolff has been under intense scrutiny by those celebrating her rise and those who doubt that a woman has what it takes to earn a place on the Formula One starting grid. The down-to-earth, pragmatic Scotswoman doesn’t get caught up in the gender debate. “Yes, I’m one of the few females in a man’s world but I’ve been racing since I was eight years old and I’m simply following my passion. I’m not on a crusade to show what women can do in motorsport,” says Wolff, 31. “But I realise a lot of people are watching my progress to see if a woman can cut it at this level. There are some people waiting to see me fail, but nobody could put more pressure on me than I put on myself. I want to do a good job as Susie Wolff, not as a female racing driver.” Wolff’s racing career began in her hometown of Oban when she fell in love with kart racing while at primary school. By 14 she was British Woman Kart Racing Driver of the Year. It was the start of a series of national and international awards and race titles. In 2000, Wolff was named top female kart driver in the world. “Racing was a hobby until I was 14 and went to a Formula 3 race and realised you could become a professional racing driver. Jenson Button won that day and I think that was when I decided to make a career out of racing,” she says. From karts, Wolff moved to Formula Renault in 2001 and to Formula 3 in 2005. Then came her big break. In 2006, Mercedes invited her to join the Deutsche Tourenwagen Masters circuit. The German DTM series is one of the world’s biggest touring-car championships and it was a chance for Wolff to hone her track skills. She left the UK and made a new home in Switzerland. “My boss said I had to learn German and learn it fast. I tried to take lessons in the UK but figured if I was going to do this properly I needed to move.. I settled in Switzerland because I could learn German there and it was a central point in Europe. It was a baptism of fire, though. The Swiss aren’t very open to speaking English so you are forced to learn the language quickly.” Wolff was a popular competitor in DTM, staying until her elevation to the Williams Formula 1 team in 2012. As development driver, she has helped in the evolution of the Williams-Renault FW34 and FW35 FI cars. “Leaving DTM was a big step but in my last year I hit a brick wall and didn’t achieve what I’d hoped,” she says. Wolff clearly remembers the day she arrived at Britain’s Silverstone circuit to test for the Williams role. “I knew it was going to be make or break but I’ve been in this sport long enough to know how to handle pressure. So I told myself to be thankful to even have the chance to drive an F1 car and make the best of it,” she says. “And I knew that Williams would never let me drive a F1 car unless they felt I was ready for it.” Since joining the Williams team, Wolff has driven the Williams-Renault F1 cars many times, working on aerodynamic testing. In July last year she completed
89 laps of the British Grand Prix circuit and was the ninth fastest of 16 drivers. When she isn’t with the Williams team, Wolff is preparing physically and mentally to race. “The races are long, there is no air-conditioning in the car so it gets very hot and you have to train hard to cope with that. So I do a lot of strength training – especially my shoulders, upper arms and neck. “I don’t build muscle mass, because it’s a tight fit in the car and you have to stay lean. But I work on building strength. Every day I do circuit training, strength training, co-ordination and balance training and cardiovascular fitness. “Last year I did specialist neck training using a machine to build neck muscles. In the space of three months my neck grew three centimetres in circumference. My husband was getting a bit worried at that point!” she says with a laugh. “But through the high-speed corners, when you’re travelling at over 200 km/h, there’s a lot of G-force going through your body and you’ve got to be fit.” Mentally, Wolff is also meticulous in her preparation. Before she gets in the car she likes to be alone and listens to fast-paced, upbeat music. “I always get into the car
“some people want to see me fail, but nobody could put more pressure on me than I put on myself” quite early. I don’t like being rushed at all and I need everything to be perfect,” she says. “The helmet has to be done up in the correct way, my hair has to be tied back in the correct way. Everything has to be precise.” Wolff’s rise to the F1 track hasn’t been smooth and she has endured several challenges: financial hardship, career uncertainty, the disappointment of twice missing out on the prestigious Young Driver of the Year award, and the lacklustre finish to her six-year DTM career. “I’ve had many ups and downs,” she acknowledges. “During my time in F3 I ran out of money and I broke my ankle so my prospects didn’t look good at all. I was unsure if I was going to make it at that point.”
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olff’s broken ankle was a result of a slip on ice while out running; she has escaped any serious injuries on the track. “When I got the call to test with DTM, I had nothing to lose. It was my one shot at furthering my career. I was struggling to make enough money to pay the rent,” she says. “Then suddenly Mercedes-Benz made me this offer and I had a car to drive, an income and I was part of a professional race team. I thank my lucky stars for that because it set me on the path that led me to where I am now. “But even when the tough days came, I was doing something I love. I was in the great position of following my dream. I’m a very determined person. When I set a goal I go flat out and I stay focused.” Focus on and off the track is vital for Wolff, who is all too aware of the potential split-second perils of her career. Last year was a difficult one for motorsport. In October, English race driver Sean Edwards was killed in a crash at the Queensland Raceway. In June, Danish driver Allan Simonsen died after he crashed at high speed during the Le Mans 24 Hours event. In October, former Marussia F1 test driver María de Villota was found dead of natural causes in a hotel room
in Spain. She had sustained life-threatening injuries in 2012 while racing in the UK and had lost her right eye and needed numerous operations to repair damage to her face and skull. Wolff and De Villota were friends. “On the day of María’s accident I had a knot in my stomach. I was at the Williams factory and there wasn’t a nice feeling at all. Last year was a tough year in motorsport because of the loss of Sean Edwards and Allan Simonsen. “Leading up to my test with Williams last year, I got a text message from María. By then her dream was over but she sent me a message saying, ‘Go out there and do what we all know you can do’. She passed away when I was at the Japanese Grand Prix and that was really awful, too. “But we do a sport that we love and we are aware that, sometimes, things happen. Sometimes we forget this is a dangerous sport because of the safety advancements in the sport – the cars are designed to disintegrate around us now and the circuits are designed in a way that no big accident should happen… “I know my mum gets nervous watching me. But when I’m in the car I don’t feel vulnerable. I never have fear. I always have respect, but fear? Never.” One of Wolff’s staunchest supporters is her husband, Toto Wolff, whom she met in 2006 while part of the Mercedes-Benz DTM team. Toto is an executive director of the Mercedes AMG Petronas Formula One team and a shareholder in Williams F1. He is also a former racing driver. “After a race it takes me a couple of days to come down because the adrenalin is running high. You analyse how the race went, what you could have done better and, if it’s a disappointing race, it takes you a couple of days to get over it,” she says. “But my husband is good at that. If I haven’t got back to normal after a few days, he says, ‘That’s enough now, back to real life’.” Wolff says her husband is also an example of the more forward-thinking element of F1 – those who believe women can compete on an equal footing. “The sexism I’ve encountered is from the older generation who competed when there was a bigger chance of fatality and in the day when women were only grid girls or made sandwiches for the team,” says Wolff. “But Toto is of a generation that believes women can achieve things. Slowly but surely, women are coming into senior positions within Formula One because they are the best people for the job.” Wolff is hopeful of one day getting a place on the grid, and hopes each day of training and competing brings her closer to that goal. She’s feeling ready. “But I’m also very much of the opinion that if I feel I can’t get any further, I will stop. I’m lucky to be at the top level of motorsport and if I feel I’ve gone the furthest I can go, I will stop,” she says. And what would Wolff have done if she hadn’t raced fast cars? She bursts out laughing. “The only other thing that comes to mind is downhill skiing,” she says. “The thing I love about my job is the adrenalin, the competition, the speed … I don’t think I would ever have done something normal. It doesn’t fit my character!” \ smarinos@theweeklyreview.com.au
We welcome your feedback @ www.theweeklyreview.com.au/cover-story
» 2014 Formula 1® Rolex Australian Grand Prix is from March 13-16 at Albert Park. » www.ticketmaster.com.au » www.grandprix.com.au » www.williamsf1.com FEBRUARY 20, 2014 \ The weekly review 5
My view \ katrina hall is reminded why kids rule
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(iStockphoto \ THINKSTOCK)
“she went a different way to solve a problem’’
hen my brother and I were preschoolers, we would wander off to the local milk bar on our own. Presumably mum knew where we were going because she usually gave us money to bring home bread or milk or a packet of Benson & Hedges. Those were the days, hey. Anyway, along the way, there was a house full of kids we called “the toughies”. They were also preschoolers – or we assumed they were because they were also not at school – and I’m not even sure they were supervised because when they saw us pass by their window they would run out and pull our ears and stand on our toes. Not once did a grown-up come out from that house and tell them to stop. When we told mum about “the toughies”, she said next time tell them that sticks and stones will break our bones but words will never hurt us. This didn’t help. If they just called us names, we wouldn’t be hobbling off with aching toes and throbbing ears. So we worked out our own plan. From then on, we went a different way. Geniuses, right? Relying on our wit and cunning to survive in this dubious, lawless neighbourhood where four-year-olds risked their lives for 20 cents worth of mixed lollies. I recall this formative moment because my seven-year-old is having trouble with the school rule, “you can’t say you can’t play”. The concept was invented by a kindie teacher of vast experience who was tired of seeing “boss” groups of kids use exclusion as a power tool in the playground. It’s now pretty much universally applied as an anti-bullying rule in well-meaning primary schools around the world. Thankfully, there’s also zero tolerance for ear-pinchers and toe-squishers
in schools, so we should all be happy it’s just negative feelings such as isolation, rejection and loneliness we now need to fear for our children. Forget about sticks and stones, some words do actually hurt as it turns out. Mine have known the “can’t say you can’t play” rule since kindie, and I have to admit it has helped them along the way, much more than “you get what you get and you don’t get upset”, which they’re a bit less enthusiastic about. But my seven-year-old is having trouble with the concept because the kid who really wants to play with her is an excluder. She wants my daughter to herself, and anyone else who wants to play with them is sent packing. My daughter can’t say you can’t play to the perpetrator because she doesn’t want to break the rule, even though that is exactly what the perpetrator is doing to other kids. What to advise? Her teacher told her to find someone else to play with, but the other kid followed and tried to run the show. Eventually it was just the two of them again. Then she came up with her own plan. When the perpetrator said, “You’re playing with me today”, my kid said, “Actually, so-and-so told me she really, really wants to play with you”. Cunning, yes, and slightly stretching the truth, but she didn’t technically break any rules and no one’s feelings were hurt. Like my little brother and I all those years ago on our dangerous quest for a bag of freckles and cobbers, she just went a different way to solve a problem. Kids are good like that. \ khall@theweeklyreview.com.au
We welcome your feedback @ www.theweeklyreview.com.au/myview
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6 The weekly review \ FEBRUARY 20, 2014
expertly roasted coffee by melbourne’s favourite coffee roasters compatible with your Nespresso * machine ®
www.shotsbygenovese.com.au * Nespresso® is a trademark of Societe de Produits Nestle SA. Neither that company nor its affiliates have manufactured or endorsed this product or the use of this product. The Nespresso® trademark is used in relation to this product in a descriptive capacity only and not to indicate the origin of this product.
Barista \ LEANNE TOLRA REVIEWS ALLPRESS CAFÉ AND ROASTERy Career changes are barista often about timing. A six-month stint back in her native New
is a triumph. This New Zealand-forged Zealand, working with Allpress coffee, led company, which has made inroads into some Bridget Hopson to the company’s Melbourne of Melbourne’s newest and most fashionable caffeine mecca. Hopson began making coffee cafés in recent years, has opened a classy after school and on weekends at Workman’s showpiece in Collingwood. Café in Matamata on NZ’s north island. The The complex includes a high-tech roastery, rural town, where parts of The Lord of The cupping room, art studio and events space, Rings and The Hobbit were filmed, is now café and landscaped courtyard, and it known as Hobbiton and the café appears no expense has been spared. is renowned. “I enjoy the Allpress also has roastery and Hopson moved to Australia people side café set-ups in Dunedin, Sydney in 2005 and worked for busy of making and London, but the pièce de Melbourne Central café Food Inc résistance in industrial Rupert for four-and-a-half years. coffee” Street is the massive Air Roasting It was a period that taught her Technology coffee roaster, designed by about speed, high coffee volumes and co-owner Michael Allpress. customer service, she says. Her next barista Training sessions are held for staff and role was at Flemington’s Social Roasting customers in the purpose-built laboratory Company, where she spent two years building in the centre of the complex, and young, techniques and knowledge. super-friendly staff dispense caffeine and The barista roles at the Collingwood food with good cheer. complex are shared and Hopson is enjoying The menu, overseen by co-owner Tony the challenge of learning new techniques – Papas of Brasserie Bread, features boutique such as brewing pour-over filter coffees – as canteen-style fare such as salads, sandwiches, well as polishing older skills. deli items and a dandy collection of cakes and “It’s been great to go right back to basics slices. The flagship Supremo espresso blend and to learn more about quality and is on offer daily, augmented by a changing consistency,” she says. “I enjoy the people side weekly collection of single-origin beans of making coffee and working with my hands mostly served pour-over style. Six large and am always trying to improve to create stainless-steel hoppers hold a collection the perfect coffee.” \ ltolra@theweeklyreview.com.au of roasted beans to take away.
ALLPRESS CAFÉ AND ROASTERY, 80 Rupert Street, Collingwood Phone \ 8415 5755 Barista \ Bridget Hopson Coffee \ Allpress Barista’s choice \ Long black Open \ Monday to Friday 7am-4pm; weekends 8am-4pm
» www.allpressespresso.com
(Darren James)
Not that caffeine aficionados CAFÉ would expect anything less, but the new Allpress Café and Roastery
Bridget Hopson
To read more reviews www.theweeklyreview.com.au/coffee
Behind a brick wall, a lush lawn opens to this modern café space with rustic outdoor seating and awnings. Inside, each element of the colour scheme and furnishings is picked up in a tiled counter. Fresh loaves, roasted coffee beans and efficient staff are on show behind it. Windows front the training facilities and roasting warehouse beyond, revealing the odd brewing secret. \
Children’s Fun
at Melbourne Sports Hub
Enrolments now open! Regarded as one of the leading swim schools in Australia, the MSAC Swim School teaches children and adults to be the best they can be, develop healthy habits, build social networks and skills for life. Bookings Essential: swimschool@msac.com.au
(03) 9926 1581
Autumn School Holiday Enrolments Now Open Melbourne’s most fun and active School Holiday Program at two great locations. Albert Park – Melbourne Sports and Aquatic Centre (MSAC) Royal Park – State Netball Hockey Centre (SNHC) For Children Aged 5 – 12. The Planet Sport program includes all the sports and facilities that MSAC, SNHC and Lakeside Stadium have to offer, including swimming, FlowRider and stadium sports.
Fun for the whole family! Open every weekend throughout the year from 11am to 4pm • Inflatables • Wave Pool • Waterslide No bookings required. Check the website for activity schedule. www.msac.com.au/programs/for-kids/splashout Please note that while the waves are running, all children under the age of 10 must be accompanied in the water by a parent or guardian over the age of 16.
Bookings Essential: planetsport@ssct.com.au
(03) 9926 1618
FEBRUARY 20, 2014 \ The weekly review 7
Decanter \
GROW SHOW
Ben Thomas contemplates getting dirty
Be inspired by healthy eating with a trip to see the Melbourne Town Hall's first ever veggie patch. As part of the Grow Show and the Sustainable Living Festival, the veggie patch includes chives, parsley, lettuce, chillies and sunflowers. Take part in FREE Grow Show events every weekday lunchtime until Friday 28 February.
melbourne.vic.gov.au/inbetween
GET INVOLVED IN YOUR CITY GRAND ORGAN: GET ORGANISED Learn all about the 10,000 pipe Melbourne Town Hall Grand Organ, on Sunday 23 February. Step behind the heritage facade, view the instrument’s workings close up, hear young performers and even play the organ yourself. melbourne.vic.gov.au/grandorgan
UPCOMING COMMUNITY FORUMS
GRANT AND SPONSORSHIPS Apply for a wide range of grants and sponsorship opportunities within the City of Melbourne. Applications for businesses, events and social enterprises close Wednesday 19 March. Applications for the 2015–17 Triennial Arts Grants program close Monday 14 April. Find out more on our website. melbourne.vic.gov.au/ grantsandsponsorships
Our upcoming community forums will provide information on City of Melbourne activities and interaction with Councillors and council officers. Submit your questions to help formulate discussion topics for your community forum now. melbourne.vic.gov.au/participate
DOCKLANDS COMMUNITY FORUM Interested in the future of Docklands? The Docklands Community Forum is a public meeting held every two months to encourage community input. The first meeting for 2014 takes place on Wednesday 26 February. melbourne.vic.gov.au/docklands
(Supplied)
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he great irony of the Melbourne Food and Wine Festival is that it’s held during vintage for most of Victoria’s wine regions. Often the very people we’re celebrating can’t get away from their winery to join in. I’ve been in masterclasses with winemakers and cellarhands in whose purple-stained hands are swirled glasses holding some of the world’s best wines. There’s never a chance to talk about the wines over a coffee with them afterwards – they’re in their cars and headed back to work before you can say “cafe latte”. This year, some of those winemakers are bringing the winemaking to town. For me, the timeless image of winemaking is someone standing waist-deep in a vat of grapes with purple legs. At this year’s Melbourne Food and Wine Festival, which starts on February 28, a couple of events are giving people the chance to find out – for as little as $25 – what squished berries feel like between your toes. The Yarra Valley’s Yering Station and the Arts Centre have teamed up for Stompin’ at the Tram. “We’ll bring half a tonne of grapes down, people can jump up and down on it, get people dirty and help them understand the winemaking process,” says Yering Station chief winemaker Willy Lunn. “The idea is to give people an education and make it fun, rather than sitting in a stuffy room in front of panellists scribbling on about wine.” There isn’t enough time to make wine on the day, so the crushed juice will be taken back to Yering Station and fermented before
Yering Station’s Willy Lunn
finding its way into one of Yering’s 2014 vintage wines. “We’re actually going to make something here so in a few years people can look back and say, ‘Hey, I helped make that’. “That’s a pretty cool part of the wine business,” he says. Lunn also offers some practical advice for would-be grape stompers, breaking any misconceptions that winemaking is a glamorous business. “People should trim their toenails! While winemaking you get dirty, so don’t wear your Sunday best.” \ bthomas@theweeklyreview.com.au Follow Ben @senorthomas
something for everyone From wine masterclasses hosted by international winemakers to afternoons in the park with friends and a few local beers, this year’s Melbourne Food and Wine Festival has something for every palate and budget. Stompin’ at the tram \ Stomp, taste and eat with Yering Station’s winemakers as they bring winemaking to the city. How much \ $25 Where & when \ Tram 69, Arts Centre Melbourne, 100 St Kilda Road. 2.30-7pm, Saturday and Sunday, March 1 and 2. Crush, Stomp, Drink \ Epocha is turning its garden into a winery for a day, with guests invited to crush, press and learn the ins and outs of winemaking with winemaker David Carlei before sitting down to lunch. Epocha will invite guests back for another meal to try the finished product. How much \ $195 Where & when \ Epocha, 49 Rathdowne Street, Carlton. 9am-2pm, Saturday, March 1. Melbourne Beerfest \ Join Melbourne’s craft beer explosion with masterclasses, tastings, food and beer matching along with live entertainment in the shady Flagstaff Gardens. How much \ From $25 Where & when \ Flagstaff Gardens. 1-9pm, March 1 and 2.
Melbourne City Council (from left): Cr Ken Ong, Cr Beverley Pinder-Mortimer, Cr Jackie Watts, Cr Arron Wood, Lord Mayor Robert Doyle, Cr Rohan Leppert, Deputy Lord Mayor Susan Riley, Cr Stephen Mayne, Cr Richard Foster, Cr Cathy Oke, Cr Kevin Louey. For information on programs, services, Council and committee meetings, please call 03 9658 9658, or visit melbourne.vic.gov.au Connect with the City Of Melbourne at melbourne.vic.gov.au/socialmedia
Slow Boat to the Pyrenees \ Hop aboard the Lady Cutler for a cruise with a difference: speed tasting. Chat and taste with 11 winemakers as they each present two wines, matched to water-inspired canapés. How much: $100 Where & when \ Lady Cutler, Berth 9, Central Pier, Docklands. 6-9pm, March 6.
» For more information and to book these events, visit: www.melbournefoodandwine.com.au Online only » Ben Thomas’ weekly wine selections
8 The weekly review \ FEBRUARY 20, 2014
Food \ LEANNE TOLRA REVIEWS STATE OF GRACE
T
he statuesque redhead poised in the Victorian velvet armchair by the high, arched windows looks as though she’s been hired to heighten the ambience. Her 1950s-inspired dress and meticulously waved hairstyle are at one with the elegant, eclectic décor at this New York-inspired restaurant and bar. But she’s edgy and, therefore, not totally in character. We overhear her seek assurance that her $200 in vouchers will be sufficient, and used with discretion, on the night. When her tardy date arrives, he’s barely apologetic and hasn’t taken anywhere near the same care with his appearance. For the pro-romantics at the table beside her, it’s a disheartening start to the night. We get off to a jerky start too as we negotiate drink orders with the insistent waitress. But later, events at our table – and the young woman’s – progress positively. There’s plenty of decorator eye candy to loosen the mood, the wine list is decent and there’s a spunky offering of cocktails. The skeleton of the 1889 landmark that houses Publican Group Australia’s latest Melbourne venue was treated with respect as Negroni Bar & Grill was reborn to a State of Grace. In Melbourne, PGA’s stable includes Terra Rossa, Mr Mason, Campari House, Veludo, The Wharf Hotel and event venues. There are siblings in Perth too. At Grace, opened in October, exposed brick walls, worn timber floors and keenly treated plasterwork and cornices are the framework that retains the historic building’s integrity. PGA co-owners Steve Garcia and John Ahern are responsible for the intriguing interior – a time capsule of the last century. A stuffed giraffe leans over timber tables and tangerine upholstered chairs. A cowhide rug and matching menu covers sit below a chandelier built from a bicycle wheel rim and recycled lampshades. Vintage couches wrap around the room. While we found the service a little unpolished at times – the early battle about drinks, glasses never refilled, plates slow to be cleared – State of Grace is a smooth enough operation. The staff also seem to service the subterranean “hidden” bar, Fall from Grace. Their excursions to this tongue-in-cheek covert operation, accessed via a secret doorway, in part explained (but didn’t justify) any anxiousness about orders or lapses in attentiveness. But the atmosphere and the unpretentious, approachable food succeed. Head chef Dylan Evans (ex Pearl, Sydney’s Pier and Trunk circa 2011) has created a menu that doesn’t require too much analysis and so complements the outrageous décor. Classic European-inspired dishes, a concise red-meat-only grill section and smart grazing options will appeal to business folk, city cruisers or tourists who find themselves at the “New York end” of Collins Street. The $19 weekday lunch mains will be popular. Share a plate of extraordinarily good haloumi, with a cake-like
Fine and dine: Head chef Dylan Evans has created a menu that complements the extravagant decor. (chris hopkins)
flavours that my memory is overwhelmed. I recall spongy texture, given sweetness by a scattering of two squares of standout passionfruit marshmallow, a preserved honey-and-spice-enhanced Iranian figs. Fiery square of excellent hazelnut-enhanced chocolate mousse padron peppers, pleasantly treated at the stove, are its crowned with a piece of rich blood orange and sweet, perfect partner. crisp sheet of filo pastry. There was a deconstructed Our grill experience, a 300-gram 200-day grain-fed trifle with macaron-textured pieces of white chocolate piece of meat, left us without complaint and will keep sponge. A square of strawberry parfait reminiscent of the regular suits happy. It was plonked on a board – a semifreddo was topped with slices of strawberry I’m a bit over food on boards – and respectfully and a few dollops of a rich strawberry sauce. treated with a jug of good jus and a smear of there’s This is the chef’s skill and devotion writ large. creamy mustard – ditto smears. plenty of The couple next door head down to Fall The confit lamb is another dead cert for the decorator from Grace, where chandeliers, candelabrae, business crowd. The long-cooked, delicate a decorated deer bust and vividly lit bar meat was rolled into a log and sliced into eye candy combine with plenty of bling to create a discs. Its supporting bed of crushed potato decadent atmosphere. added texture and soaked up the rich Madeira Looking at our bill, which had a modest alcohol jus, a good balance of classic flavours. component and still came close to $200, made me hope Three meal-sized salads and a collection of sides the young woman didn’t blow her budget – or that, if round out the menu nicely. Super-good yucca chips she did, the date paid up. \ could become local legends, and the dukkah-decked ltolra@theweeklyreview.com.au beetroot and labne was a satisfying red-meat partner. Dessert choices – trifle, chocolate mousse and To read more reviews strawberry parfait – are also offered on a tasting plate www.theweeklyreview.com.au/food (another board). It contained so many textures and
Eat this State of grace, 477 Collins Street, city Cuisine \ European
Chef \ Dylan Evans
Prices \ Grazing plates $6-$26; mains $25-$35; desserts $15 Open \ Monday to Friday 8am-late; Saturday 5pm-late Phone \ 8644 7110 The verdict \ Somewhere special
» www.stateofgracemelbourne.com.au
Haloumi with figs
Lamb Shoulder
Dessert Platter FEBRUARY 20, 2014 \ The weekly review 9
L
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uke Stedman traded waves for fashion two years He might have drawn inspiration from one of pop ago and now the former pro surfer is making culture’s darkest heroes (Ian Curtis, the frontman of Joy a splash beyond wetsuits and his surfboard. Division, who committed suicide in 1980), but Stedman His men’s label Insted We Smile is all about exploring has chosen to reference the band’s dark post-punk urban menswear inspired by the sounds of Joy Division sounds (think of their hit Love Will Tear Us Apart) and The White Stripes. through a surprising collection of moody silhouettes. Cool music taste aside, Stedman never thought he’d “I love Joy Division, and I think Ian is cool,” Stedman find a future in fashion, but was keen to explore the says. “I based my trench jackets around him. I also possibility once he stopped surfing competitively. designed a shirt called Inspired by Jack White [of The The ocean still feels like home, but he admits he’s White Stripes], so I guess music and the characters found a new love. He creates clothing for stylish lads behind the beats really inspired this collection, as well as who don’t mind a bit of adventure when it comes to the ocean, as it’s a major part of my life.” dressing themselves – there’s a hint of rock’n’roll cool, Stedman is inspired by the minimalist verve of a dash of folk shoegazer and a bold palette of prints to Belgian designer Kris Van Assche and American amplify your message. designer Jeremy Scott, who will design outfits for Miley Stedman describes himself as a positive guy Cyrus on her Bangerz tour this year. He has who doesn’t have a fixed office space – home is quickly learnt that being successful in fashion “all my where the laptop takes him, so to speak. For means accepting help and guidance from now, it’s Sydney’s Whale Beach. collections those around him. “I really wanted to be creative and, now “I have a lot of friends and family that have have a fun that I’m not surfing competitively, this was had input with my label and I could not have message” the best way for me to try to make something done it without their support,” he says. “I may that has my signature and allows me to have do most of the groundwork, but their advice and self-expression,” says Stedman. direction have been invaluable. I have had to learn He enjoys the process of fashion designing, sourcing that I can’t do everything on my own.” fabrics and nutting out styles that fit his new brand. He spends his time travelling to Europe, the US This isn’t a surfer label – Stedman has opted for street and Asia for work, and was in Paris last September to smart with a fashionable twist. There are tapered pants attend Ellery’s spring/summer 2014 collection, where he and trench coats, as well as fitted shirts with contrast observed her 1970s architecture-inspired silhouettes in banding, torn jeans, cropped pants and casual T-shirts. shades of claret, garnet and black. “All my collections have a fun and positive message,” He is keen to turn blokes on to his label – those Stedman says. “I like to have fun and be happy, so I who are willing to give fashion a go. “Guys are all hope this is how people see my collections. definitely interested in what they wear,” he says. “Being “With this collection I made an extra effort to add fashionable is more accepted these days. I don’t think new fabrics and new categories. We have some heavy guys really care about being labelled that any more, as trench coats, along with seersucker tailored shirting. they are fast becoming the majority.” \ jrocca@theweeklyreview.com.au The IWS boy will be the guy who loves to be fun and won’t be afraid to wear flamboyant garments, but also » www.instedwesmile.com likes to look expensive.”
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Take care of a puppy and help change a life… Being a Seeing Eye Dog puppy carer is possibly the most enjoyable way to volunteer. Not only do you get to experience the joy of looking after an adorable puppy for about 12 months, without any of the associated costs – you will also enjoy the satisfaction of knowing you are assisting someone who is blind to live the life they choose. Seeing Eye Dogs Australia is urgently in need of loving homes for puppies in your area.
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Tech Talk \ Rod Easdown chooses curves
What \ OLED Television
price \ $7999
(supplied)
C
urved screen OLED television? So last September. A national retail chain is advertising LG’s 140-centimetre OLED television, the one with the gently curved screen, for $7999, but you can do better than that. An enthusiastic salesperson offered me $7848, today only. Hang on. This is the screen that was unveiled only last September amid glitz and bubbles for $11,999, and it has just plummeted four grand? You’d be a bit depressed if you’d bought one last month. What happened? I suspect it’s all about the Consumer Electronics Show held every January in Las Vegas, where electronics companies show off their new toys and give us an inkling of what’s to come. OLED televisions (it stands for organic light-emitting diode) were high on this year’s agenda. OLED has several special properties. It is technology that can be laid on a surface, in this case curved glass, without adding any appreciable thickness. Hence your OLED telly is only as thick as the glass that hosts it. This is pretty special when you see it for the first time – it’s just a sheet of glass but it’s also a television. Like plasma, there’s no backlighting, so blacks are truly black because, when black is called for, the pixel emits no light at all. Contrast ratios are therefore way better than backlit LCDs and LEDs, and on a par with plasmas. Small OLED screens have been around for decades (lots of up-market car audio screens are OLED) but it is still extremely difficult to manufacture in large sizes. Get up to 140 centimetres and the failure rate is high –
LG OLED television
one independent source says 90 per cent. It suggests that when you pay for your 140-centimetre OLED, you’re also covering the cost of nine that failed. Even so, the industry views OLED as a powerful weapon that is getting us all into the shops to replace our perfectly good plasmas and LCDs with something newer. At the Las Vegas show, Samsung unveiled several, including one that’s bendable. TCL, one of the world’s biggest television manufacturers (it turns one out every 2¼ seconds, 24/7) announced the imminent release of a 140-centimetre OLED. And TCL is into ultra-sharp pricing. Maybe LG decided to put on its
the manual
Tech talk verdict \ remarkable Technology
running shoes and slash a third off the price of its offering. Or maybe, in these fast days, it’s now old tech. Whatever, it’s still a special screen. The technology is remarkable and the picture quality is sharp, deep and gorgeous, with each pixel carrying yellow as well as red, green and blue. The screen has no frame, although there is a narrow black border around the picture and the speakers are in a see-through panel. A good soundbar or speaker stand is still going to do a better job. Samsung also lists a 140-centimetre curved screen OLED on its website but I had no luck finding one. The woman in Doncaster couldn’t find it on the company’s inventory and suggested I ring Chadstone, but the guy there had never heard of it. \ reasdown@theweeklyreview.com.au
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www.melbourneONE.com.au FEBRUARY 20, 2014 \ The weekly review 13
What’s on \ City White Night Melbourne From synchronised swimming to live music, fashion to tattoos and illuminations and projections, Melbourne’s streets, laneways, landmarks and cultural institutions will be transformed into a cultural playground. From dusk to dawn, the program will deliver more than 80 free events across the city. ■ Various locations around Melbourne. February 22, 7pm – February 23, 7am. www.whitenightmelbourne.com.au
(supplied)
WHITE NIGHT MELBOURNE 2014
Thelma plum
Kit Webster at Trunk Bar Trunk Bar and Restaurant is teaming up with acclaimed light projection artist Kit Webster for White Night to transform the building’s exterior, courtyard, and interiors. The venue will be licensed until 7am. ■ Feb 22, 7pm – Feb 23, 7am. Trunk Bar & Restaurant 275 Exhibition Street, Melbourne www.trunktown.com.au
Australia’s largest performing arts centre. Free ghost tours will run every 15 minutes from 7pm until 3am. Book your spot now if you dare! Walk-ins are welcome but spaces are strictly limited. ■ Feb 22, 7pm – Feb 23, 3am. Arts Centre, 100 St Kilda Road. www. artscentremelbourne.com.au
customised a cubic sculpture that will bring synesthetic movement to life and will complemented by DJ beats from Chiara Kickdrum. ■ Luma Vibes Festival runs nightly until February 23. QV Square, QV Melbourne, corner of Lonsdale and Swanston streets, Melbourne. www.qv.com.au
FESTIVAL
ENTERTAINMENT
Phantoms of the Theatre Tours For White Night, Arts Centre Melbourne will become a site of bewitching entertainment, with spine-chilling trips through
Luma Vibes Festival QV Melbourne has been transformed into a world of colour and animation. Lighting and design engineers Kit Webster and Pierre Proske have
Zoo Twilights As part of the Melbourne Zoo Twilights 2014 program, don’t miss Something for Kate, who will take to the stage on Friday night.
Heartwarming duo The Orbweavers will entertain you beforehand. Then, on Saturday night, Zoo Twilights will present Hotel California: Eagles Tribute, five professional musicians who pay homage to a band that helped define a generation. And finally, Josh Pyke, one of Australia’s premier singer/songwriters, will perform on February 28, backed up by young Triple J Unearthed artist Thelma Plum. Bring a rug, low-backed chairs and some snacks and make a night of it. ■ Melbourne Zoo Twilights season runs until March 8. Melbourne Zoo, Elliott Avenue, Parkville www.zoo.org.au/twilights EXHIBITION Ill-fitted sculpture An exhibition supported by the City of Melbourne, Ill-fitted is a beautiful display of art. This collection of sculptural works by Georgia MacGuire reflects on the history of assimilation of Australian Aboriginal women and the Western imposition of identity. MacGuire is the recent recipient of the CAL
Victorian Indigenous Art Award for three-dimensional works and the People’s Choice prize. ■ Exhibition runs until February 22 fortyfivedownstairs, 45 Flinders Lane, Melbourne www.fortyfivedownstairs.com CREATIVE Constellaction at Fed Square The Australian premiere of Constellaction will have you using your mobile phone to ignite light waves across 400 small lights at an interactive installation. The Polish-based artists panGenerator will be on site to guide the public. They are blending bits, beats and atoms, providing innovative products and engaging experiences for audiences. Their projects range from large-scale interactive installations to novel musical interfaces and tiny wearable-tech objects. Constellaction by panGenerator ■ Ends February 21; 8.30–11.30pm Federation Square, Corner Swanston and Flinders streets, Melbourne www.fedsquare.com/events \ compiled by BiANCA VILLAROSA
Want your event listed?
To be considered for a listing email \ whatsoncity@theweeklyreview.com.au
MORTGAGEE SALE 601 LITTLE COLLINS STREET, MELBOURNE
CITY STORAGE UNITS Sizes range from 6m2 - 15m2 approx. FOR YOUR STORAGE SOLUTIONS
Prices start at $24,000 + GST 1
1
Auction Inspect
Saturday 22nd February 12:30pm Thursday 20th 12:00 to 12:30pm Saturday 22nd 12:00 to 12:30pm
Contact Price
Robert Eggers 0412 329 340 $350,000 Plus
KT134
MELBOURNE 806/29 MARKET STREET RARE LANDMARK LIVING AT PORT AUTHORITY Embrace CBD life and Yarra river views, with high ceilings and a clever floor plan featuring open plan living, granite kitchen & stylish bench areas. The main bedroom offers an ensuite and BIR, while extras include heating, excellent storage and intercom entry.
For further details contact:
John Camilleri - 0409 327 120 LEVEL 6, 175 FLINDERS LANE, MELBOURNE 3000
www.dinglepartners.com.au 14 The weekly review \ FEBRUARY 20, 2014
9614 6688
Melbourne 14/73 Flinders Lane INDuStRIAL thEN - ICONIC NOw
Sargood House is New York apartment living at its finest. A highly sought after warehouse conversion that was built in 1926 by Frederick Sargood as a textile manufacturing warehouse for Sargood and Gardiner. A conversion of the building into 24 residential apartments only was completed in 1998. Highly esteemed architect for the conversion Wood Marsh, created a masterpiece that was well ahead of its time and to this day is considered one of the best. We offer you a rare opportunity to become a part of this tightly held building. With its Paris end of the City location, this voluminous space featuring 2 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms , a chefs kitchen, a cooled wine cellar for 632 bottles, hydronic heating and air conditioning. Soaring concrete ceilings, polished concrete floors and an abundance of windows will excite the consummate entertainer and those wanting to be long term city dwellers. This stand out apartment offers style, position, location, space, exclusivity and tranquillity. Parking for 2 cars on title. Expressions of Interest Price
| |
Closing Friday 28th February 2pm $1.6Mil+
Inspect Contact
| Thursday 13th 5-5:30pm & Saturday 15th 11-11:30am | Gina Donazzan 0412 430 326 / Mark Connellan 0413 370 281
Melbourne 513/238 Flinders Lane CIRCA 1860 – FLINDERS LANE LOCALE Come and discover the beauty of this serene and secure apartment, set behind the rich Italianate façade of this historically significant building. With soaring ceiling heights and original wide baltic pine floorboards throughout and timber shutters, this lovely apartment will tick all the boxes. Well proportioned 73 m2 with two bedrooms (or 1 + study) and a generous living area this will be the one you have been waiting for. A dual access fully tiled bathroom with bathtub and Euro laundry too. Add the delightful Flinders Lane address with its proximity to so many wonderful cafés, bakery’s, restaurants and boutiques and its impossible not to love this highly desirable apartment and it’s highly sought after location. | |
Closing Friday 14th March 2pm $540,000+
Inspect Contact
| Thursday 20th 5-5:30pm & Saturday 22nd 10:30-11am | Gina Donazzan 0412 430 326 / Mark Connellan 0413 370 281 10006218-01-a20Feb©MMP
Expressions of Interest Price
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Readers are entitled to expect that the advertised prices are the actual prices at which they can purchase the particular goods and services.
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FEBRUARY20, 19,2014 2014\\The THE weekly WEEKLY REVIEW FEBRUARY review1717
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ADVERTISING FEATURE To advertise in this page call Anna on 9238 7529
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226 Clarendon Street, South Melbourne. (03) 9686 9941
Melbourne, Sydney, Adelaide, Perth & Brisbane. Ph: 0423 807 260
from a professional and classy Bellacize Dancer. Our stunning entertainers will ensure everyone has a fabulous time, and can even get your guests up for a spin! We tailor our packages to your requirements and we can match any theme. Let Bellacize bring the magic that will make your party a rousing success!
info@karabaker.com www.bellacize.com
Melbourne. 0422 077 690
Level 9 / 85 Queen Street, Melbourne CBD. (03) 8598 9804
www.stablemassage.com.au
Perricoota Vines Retreat
Melbourne’s Women’s Expo is back!
Los Amates Mexican Kitchen
Midweek getaway, 3 nights in a 1 bedroom lakeside spa villa with
GO Festival is a celebration of all things female, YOU are invited
a bottle of wine and daily newspaper. Only$370, normally $510
to join us for a great day out! This is the largest Women’s Expo
- huge savings. The ultimate in accommodation - we guarantee
in Melbourne. Key note speakers, entertainment, massage and
you will never want to leave. Unique, beautiful and peaceful.
healings are just a few of the things we have in store for you.
Be quick and book now. Conditions apply. Visit the website or call
March 15th and 16th, 10am - 5pm at The Royal Exhibition Building,
for more information.
Nicholson Street, Carlton. Tickets available online or at the door.
“Los Amates Mexican Kitchen” has been operating now for 8 years providing the most authentic Mexican food in Melbourne. Now also has been recognised as one of the top 8 Authentic Mexican Restaurants in the world (out of Mexico) by “Buena Mesa” the reputable food magazine from “Reforma” newspaper, as a “Mexican Culinary Embassy”. No other place can claim that honour.
www.perricootavines.com
www.gofestival.com.au
www.losamates.com.au
400 Perricoota Road, Moama. 1800 826 655
THE weekly WEEKLY REVIEW \ FEBRUARY 19, 20, 2014 18 The review \ FEBRUARY 2014
Royal Exhibition Building, Nicholson Street, Carlton. 0425 768 166
34 Johnston Street, Fitzroy. 9417 0441
OPEN 7 DAYS 7AM - 5PM Full Breakfast & Lunch Menu Open for Dinner with Greek Tapas menu (mezze), Wednesday, Thursday & Friday nights. BYO $5 corkage. Available for Private Functions 300 Queens Parade, Clifton Hill
Find Us on Facebook “A Clockwork Cafe” or call us on: 9482 4931 G6651459AA-dc20Feb
White Night Melbourne Saturday 22 February This White Night, visit Melbourne’s most beautiful bookstore in the iconic Georges building Reader’s Feast Bookstore 162 Collins Street Open until 8pm
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Bring this advertisement in on the night to go in the draw for a $100 gift voucher. www.readersfeast.com.au G6650818AA-dc20Feb
STEAMRAIL VICTORIA
Look your best for Less!
Presents our open days at the Newport workshops Champion Road, Newport. Sunday 9th & Monday 10th March 2014
Skin Cancer Kills Early detection Saves lives
10am-5pm daily
Consultations Bulk Billed
Come along and join us as we show off Victoria railways history. Up to 8 steam locos will be on display, throughout the two days. Steam engines will be turned on the turntable every hour & guided tours through our workshops. Shuttle bus will be operating from Newport station.
Injectable Fillers BEFORE
AFTER
UP TO
50% OFF*
Admission Prices Adults $15 (17 years and over) Kids (3-16) $10 (under 3 are free) Family $40 (2 Ad & 2K or 1Ad & 3K)
For Information contact us on (03) 9397 1953 or info@steamrail.com.au or www.steamrail.com.au Guest appearance from the movie Back to the Future (the Delorion car)
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per Anti Wrinkle Injection $9 per unit Dermal Fillers Starting at $400 ml
Safe & Effective
Qualified & Experienced Medical Practitioners
Phone 9090 0099
“We encourage questions about risks and side effects and a second opinion.” Based on 1155 High Street ARMADALE average Melbourne Prices (listed price). Must present coupon. One coupon per person www.cdc-clinics.com.au Free consultations and brochures
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FEBRUARY 19, 2014 \ THE WEEKLY REVIEW 19
ANNUAL WAREHOUSE CLEARANCE SALE FEBRUARY 22 - 23 - 24, 2014 / 9AM - 5PM Up to 70% off designer furniture, lighting & accessories. Choose from a range of new, discontinued & ex-display stock including designer beds, sofas, armchairs, tables, chairs, outdoor furniture, lighting & more.
535 - 539 Spencer Street, West Melbourne Terms & Conditions: All goods will be sold in 'AS-IS' condition. No refund, exchanges or returns for change of mind. Payment is required in full on the day of the sale. Goods will be sold on a first in first served basis. Delivery & Installation can be arranged by Hub at an additional cost. No storage available. All Visa and MasterCard transactions over $5000 will incur a 2% fee. All Amex transactions will incur a 3% fee.