L A S B
Yohann Ducès / Gran canaria Photo / G - shot
SLAB Cover: O. Milne vs J. Favaloro
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HELLO WORLD,
Photo/J. Favaloro
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THE BOOGIE WORLD IS AT WAR. WE ARE NOW AWARE THAT THE WINDS CAN TURN VERY QUICKLY, THAT’S WHY THE “SMALL FRENCH VILLAGE” DECIDES TO RESIST DESPITE THE CRISIS, THE COLD AND ALL THE HAZARDS OUT OF OUR REACH. WE LEARNED A LOT DURING THE LAST FEW MONTHS, AND SLAB IS REALLY IN A BRAINSTORMING MOOD. WE HAVE NOT DECIDED YET TO REST, BUT RATHER DEDICATE OUR ENERGY TO ACCOMPLISH MORE; THAT’S WHY YOU WILL FIND IN THIS EDITION VERY FRESH CONTENT FROM HERE AND FROM EVERYWHERE. A PURELY FRENCH GALLERY WITH WAVES FROM THE FOUR CORNERS OF THE COUNTRY, PHOTOS FROM THE REST OF THE WORLD AND EXCLUSIVE INFORMATION ON CANADA, THE KINGDOM OF COLD SURFING, OR SOME THOUGHTS ON THE BOOGIE SCENE. BUT LET’S STOP TALKING. AS EVERYONE IS IN THE STARTING BLOCKS SINCE THE LAST WEBCAST OF THE PIPE CONTEST (EXCEPT THOSE WHO WERE IN THE WATER FOR THESE 3 DAYS OF MADNESS), I LET YOU GRAB A COFFEE CUP AND ENJOY EACH IMAGE AT YOUR OWN PACE, HOPING THAT YOU WILL ENJOY IT IN THE WAIT OF THE SOON COMING IBA EVENT…
SLAB
Interview / S. Da silva Photos / A. Dewolfe & E. Ouellette
/////////// WITH SUCH HIGH GOLD PRICES IN THE MARKET, I DECIDED TO RADICALLY CHANGE MY FIELD OF BUSINESS. GOLD DIGGER, THAT’S THE FUTURE. I EXPLORED THE LAND, WOUND MY FINGERS IN THE ROOTS OF THE EARTH, IN THE ETERNAL WATERS, AND I FINALLY DISCOVERED WHAT I WAS LOOKING FOR. A PIECE OF RAW GOLD, A TRUE ONE.
BASICS// Tell us a little your story: from where do you come? I was born and raised on the North East Coast of South Africa and lived in a town called Richardsbay: water temperatures average around 24c, good waves, great people and a solid bodyboarding community. Boogie: how did it happen? When I was 11 my uncle’s garage burned down and one of the only things that survived the fire was an old Wave Warrior board. It was luminous pink with bright green rails it had a large molten hole through the middle that my cousin had put an old surfboard leash through. I really wish I had kept it.
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SLAB
LIFESTYLE//
A Saffa’ in Canada: give us a bit more flavour on this unusual combination... Living in Canada permanently was never the plan, I came over to further my studies in 2002 and thought once that was done I would return home to South Africa. 9 years later I’m still here living in the coastal towns of Vancouver Island. Mostly in Victoria whilst I completed Horticulture College, now that’s done our plan is to cruise for a while and put all of our energy into finding new spots and just enjoying this amazing stretch of coastline.
How do you plan your sessions in the Far North? There are a few factors you have to take into consideration when planning sessions here. First of all we experience very strong tidal changes here and can have as much as 13ft difference in only 6 hours, so knowing which ledges and reefs work on certain tides is key to getting the most out of a swell. The Juan De Fuca Straight is a large body of water situated between Vancouver Island and mainland Washington. This stretch of coastline is full of hard too reach slabs and shelves which during the winter months are brought to life by endless West swells that enter the 30 - 40 mile window. It varies from surfing at the mouth on a 4ft swell, to spots that only start to break 70km down the straight
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at around 20ft or more. This same body of water is subject to currents of up to 4 knots that can either totally kill a swell or draw it in. These same currents get strong enough that you can physically see the water moving in and out of the straight. So we have to use tide, swell and current charts to figure out where the best spot will be. Ok, and once you have validated the spot what do you put in your boardpack when you go for a trip in the forest? Back up clothing is key, it rains around 2800mm on average every winter so getting soaked to the bone is a given. Marino Wool and synthetic garments are the best for staying warm even if you are drenched. Leave the cotton at home always! An axe for starting fires on the beach often finds its way into the backpack. The wood is often too wet too start a fire but splitting the West Coast Cedar in half you can always find some dry stuff to burn. Then the essentials, food water and headlamps for cruising through the forest in the dark, which if you ever find yourself looking for waves on the West Coast of Canada will definitely happen.
SLAB /////
Cold is the new Gold
Which are the hazards you may face when you surf there? We don’t get any cell reception up the coast and usually are surfing off some kind of trail or hike in spot which can be difficult or impossible to transport an injured person out of as well, of course, bears will always be something in the back of your mind, thankfully we have had enough peaceful encounters with these beautiful animals to not let it worry us too much out in the forest. Talking about big animals, can you give us some tips on the good gestures that can work when you find yourself face to face with a grizzly? Sure. My fiancée and I do a lot of work in the Northern Forests of Canada and sometimes the job requires that you have received bear training, so here is the info. In fact, there are two main scenarios. If a bear comes at you aggressively it is defending its territory or cubs that it might have close to it, in this situation you would back up slowly talking to it with a calm voice and hopefully it realizes your not a threat and backs off. But if a bear comes at you slowly without aggression and almost seems to be stalking you, its probably wondering if you taste good and wants to eat you. In this situation grab your Churchill fin and proceed to battle a fully-grown grizzly for your life! Luckily we have not had any bad situations with bears; having our dogs with us at all times is definitely a great bears deterrent. Our oldest dog has chased quite a few bears before as well as a fully-grown grizzly. Well OK for the Big Fur, but what about fishing? Everyone autumn the Salmon begin there journey from the Pacific Ocean up into the many rivers and creeks located all along Vancouver Islands West Coast as well as the mainland of Canada, to spawn. This is a very exciting time of year as you can nab yourself a large sized Chinook or Sockeye, which cooked over an open fire or smoked is a definite perk of living on the west coast. Am I a good fisherman? I would like to think so, although my fiancée would love to disagree! Tell us how you perceive your sessions after all those efforts to reach the peak One of the best things about surfing on Canada’s West Coast is your view from the water; looking back you see coastal mountains with huge conifers that grow all the way down to the waters edge. No sign of developments or human presence at most of the spots along the coast. Although this is also what makes getting to the waves difficult, long hikes through the forest are a common part of the surf experience here and getting your legs in trekking shape is just as important as paddle strength. Do you still explore regions to discover new spots? I feel like we have only just started, there is so much potential out here… You are often alone or just 2 in your sessions. Who are the people with whom you surf generally? Can you present us your crew? As far as I know there are only two of us that boogie on the West Coast, the other is a talented rider named Vijay Maharaj who spends most of his year on the North Shore of Oahu with his son Lachan. The rest of my crew is made up of homegrown
Canadians who love to power through the forest for waves. The person who I do most of my adventuring with is a true inspiration to me, ex professional snowboarder and big mountain guru Jonaven Moore who can navigate his way through any forest with ease, a definite asset on any surf trip out here. As well my two dogs who go absolutely everywhere with me. Who is behind the camera when you are in front of the lenses? There is a really great crew of photographers out here who are always keen on shooting; unfortunately the conditions do not play into their favour very much. Constant rainfall, hiking with heavy camera gear though muddy forests and across rivers and creeks, up and down mountain sides whilst being followed by wolves all day (true story) is quite the adventure for a day or two of shooting. So when you see a surf photo with pumping surf and sunshine it’s a rare treat for both the photographers and surfer. The local photographers are Emilie Ouellette, Dean Azim and Adam DeWolfe a great group of people who are keen to see Bodyboarding grow in Canada.
Do you have particular techniques in order to manage the entry and the exit of water during the winter? «Keep moving» is definitely something that runs through my head a lot during the winter. Keeping your core temperature up is the key to enjoyable experiences up the coast. Your hands, feet, and face are always the first to go but as long as you keep your trunk warm you are good. Sometimes I use the hot water trick but usually the spots are too far away from the hot water tap to do it! Cool water surfing: does one get used to cold water? It’s amazing what your body can adjust to although I think dealing with wet and cold for long periods is something your mind has to wrap itself around! What are the minimum water & air temperatures you face in the middle of winter? The West Coast of Canada is much warmer than the rest of Canada during the winter months and is usually around the low single digits. The coldest I’ve surfed was around -8c outside and water temps around 6c, when it’s this cold you have to keep moving or else you will stiffen up within a few minutes. Do you follow a particular physical training for cool water surfing? I love to eat smoked salmon when doing trips, its really rich and a great source of energy when dealing with the cold. Being cold for hours gives you a huge appetite! Finally what pushes you to face such conditions (winter)? Bodyboarding. And some magic sessions with good mates. Especially when it’s pumping
EQUIPMENT// In this kind of condition passion is essential but a good gear makes the difference… What kind of board do you use? PE PE PE when the water gets around 5c or 6c , and air -4c using any other materials is like riding a wooden board. Right now, what kind of wetsuit / fins / etc. do you use? I’m using a 6mm Rip Curl at the moment along with 5mm Booties and 5mm Gloves, I have recently changed to the new Vipers and love them. What is the best wetsuit for cold waters in your opinion, and why? You have to sacrifice a lot of flexibility for warmth surfing cold water and so far I have found Rip Curl to have the best of both.
BOOGIE BUSINESS//
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Do you have clubs, federation, and contest? None yet, although it would be really cool to have a cold water tour one day? Maybe Canada could be a stop. Your relationship with the brands: what about your sponsors and your implication with people like Soyroll? Soyroll is a great company to work alongside. Besides the products being of the highest quality, the direction its owner Theo Caget is taking the company is really cool. Creating a product using recycled materials, which is a first in the industry and a positive step forward in reducing our environmental impact. At this point in my life if I’m going to ride for a company it’s going to be for the right reasons and Soyroll is a company I believe in as a trendsetter. One could see you with Found boards: which are your relationships with the new brand of Mr Rawlins? Out here there are no stores that I can just walk into and pick up a fresh new board. I need a board I know will ride well and be of the highest quality, so like Soyroll, Mitch Rawlins new brand Found Boards is what I have made a personal choice to use. I think Found boards is breaking ground in our industry not only in producing amazing bodyboards but also forming great relationships with its customers and community. Are you 100% free-surfing or do you make competition? I love watching the IBA world tour. Mark McCarthy and I grew up surfing together and it is a definite highlight for me supporting him when the events are on. He does enough ripping for the two of us, haha. Who knows maybe one day I will sneak into an event!
SLAB /////
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PROJECTS// What are your next boogie projects: a trip to Alaska? A trip over to our neighbours would be really cool but for the moment I think I have my hands full with this coastline first. Especially as there are some riders joining me this year, so hopefully we score big. Your non-boogie related projects? Well it remains boogie-linked. Big oil companies are planning on running a pipeline from the interior of Alberta to the West Coast, oil tankers will meet them there. Doing some kind of awareness project is something we are very interested in at the moment. We are planning on sea Kayaking through this area and hopefully finding a few slabs along the way‌ Will we see you one day riding in boardshort, with palm trees around and translucent water? Once the middle of January rolls in, I often dream of warm waters and sunny days on the beach! Maybe one day I will take a winter off and make that dream a reality. Until then, anybody who wants some uncrowded waves along a mystical and uncharted coastline can visit us here; there is plenty of space to share‌
Cold is the new Gold
SLAB /////
////// SOMETIMES, AT ‘SLAB, WE RECEIVE FUNNY ALIENS. AND ONCE AGAIN I WAS TAKEN BY SURPRISE WHEN THEY TOOK THE IDENTITY OF ONE OUR MOST LONGSTANDING COLLABORATORS, L. A BIG HISTORY LOVER, WHO SENT ME AN E-MAIL CALLED “PIPE PRO THERMOMETER”. INITIALLY I THOUGHT ABOUT AN ERROR AND A FALSE LINK TO SOME KIND OF MEDICAL DEVICE, BUT FINALLY I OPENED IT AND HAD TO RECOGNIZE THAT YES, I HAVE TO CALL HIM DOCTOR BOOGIE NOW…
Cold is the new Gold
PIPE PRO, THE WORLD BOOGIE BUSINESS THERMOMETER The arrival of a quality internet broadcast, the opening of a new world tour, the tribute to the old glories with the “final of the legends” and the presence of pretty well performing veterans in the main event (Mc Gee, Wise, Stewart) are all elements which turned the Banzai Pipeline Pro 2011 Championship into a cornerstone event. Bodyboarding explores a new era, while remembering the guys who made its history, and this happens at Pipe. In this context, a small intuition germinated in our brain and needed to be tested. Is the mythical Pipe Pro contest much more than a simple sports competition? In our view, for the Boogie, this contest is a blood sample that can deliver a full diagnosis on many aspects of our sport’s overall health and momentum. There are two main reasons for this: it is the most stable spot for pro contests over time (same location since 1982) and the most universal. As the magnetic pole of the sport since the birth of boogie, it is the place where all talented riders in the world tried to put themselves into the light. And in addition, this was a nice occasion for us to justify the inclusion of pretty graphics and the presence of Financial Math and Economics in a surfing review... We therefore launched the analysis of the events held at Pipeline during the 1982-2011 period... an ant’s work for flat days! But also a long period which requires us to become aware of an important economic concept: the difference between a current $ and a constant $. The constant $ is the one that reflects the real purchasing power: oh yes, the riders’ remuneration was much higher with Prize Money of $30 000 in 1985 than the same amount 35 years later...
With this small table, this will become crystal clear and hurt a bit the evolution of the economic firepower of our sport. The three phases of boogie’s economic history are quite apparent: the first years and a huge acceleration that may be called the golden age, then the sudden sharp downturn to the underground and finally a phase of rehabilitation since 2005 with new sponsors, and some progress in prize money. However, even with prize money on the rise and nearing the level of the golden age in current $, the rider’s fees are in no way comparable in terms of purchasing power. For the 2012 the prize money to be equivalent to the $40,000 of the golden age 97/98, it would have to be in excess of $54,000 (without even opening the debate on the intensity of the competition, the expenses and preparation required to win at Pipe in 2012, in front of a much more global boogie scene vs. the 97/98 years). Note that there was no contest during the 1985 calendar year (because it was moved from December until 1984 to January from 1986), and that the 2005 event was held in Maui.
How to rdead this chart? -Below each year is the name of the event main sponsor ( Partners 2008 : NMD, Pride, Body glove) -Bars show the price money anounced each year in current US$. - the line shows the equivalent nowadays purchacing power of each year prize money at the time Sources: IBA, OCDE
60.000$
50.000$
40.000$
30.000$
20.000$
10.000$
Prize Money at Pipe (US$)
SLAB ///// The Pipe Pro is also a good tracker of the globalization of our sport. To illustrate this sequence, here is another chart showing the distribution of the country of origin of the riders who have reached the final phases of the Pipe Pro during the period (Top 4, Top 6, Top 8 depending on the year). Here we show men, among women the Brazilian color completely dominates and Japan also regularly scores top ranks (2002, 2006, 2007, 2009, 2011).
Japan for girls), mirror of a World Tour that travels around the globe. Finally, the Pipe Pro did not miss many of the riders who made the history of the boogie everywhere on the planet The mythical names are widely represented, especially when we go beyond the winner to remember the Top 4, or the Top 8, year after year. Classified by number of WINS then the Top 4, then Top 8, the Hall of Fame 1982-2011 recalls many talented riders of all periods and establishes a fair image of the most influential riders. I also confirm that the “Pipe sample” truly reflects the elite of boogie over time.
If you look at 1982-1987, the definition of the boogie is then «a Hawaiian sport with Mike Stewart winning in the end». Then we see the rise of Brazil, the Australian 2004-2006 big bang (putsch?) and the almost disappearance of the Hawaii/US competitors scene, and the first outbreaks of the Europeans: first from overseas and then Metropolitan riders. Finally appears nowadays’ great diversity (Europe, US and Hawaii, South Africa, Australia and Brazil, plus
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//////// The historical evolution of the boogie business, the geographical influences, the legends of the sport... all this can be found condensed in the results of the Pipe Pro. If this event is a descriptive tool of the General State of the sport, perhaps it is also a predictive tool, as a barometer that gives an indication of the weather to come? Let’s look at the Pipe 2012 coming soon, in the hope that it confirms (with ideally a better swell!) the positive signals of the 2011 Edition, which was the prelude of an exceptional GSS Tour.
1
1
5
1 PLC
1
1
Winchester
Cabrera
1
1
Reale
Teipel
1
1
Lyman
Burkart
1
1
1
1 Wise
Tarpley
1 Perez
Rocha
Walbrou
1 Cooper
1 Dufaure
Houston
1
1
Martinez
Caladao
1
1
Mc Carthy
Pinheiro
1
1
Rigby
Singer
2
1
1
1
1 Marzol
Ronquilio
Capdeville
1
1
1
1
Quinones
2
1 2
Boyle
1
2 Ferreira
Holland
1
2
Rawlins
2 Sasaki
Skipper
Eppo
3
1
1
Lester
3
1 Barcellos
Lindholm
1 Kaimi
Depontes
1 Lavernhe
T. Player
2
33
33
1 Patterson
4 Taylor
5 4
1
Mc Gee
1
1 Hardy
Mc Kenzie
1
1 B. Player
1 1 Severson
2 Botha
Caldwell
3 2
2
2 3 2 King
Tamega
3 Stewart
J. Hubbard
Sources / - IBA - Sixty40 bodyboarding
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2
2
1
2
2
3
1
1
2
1
3
2
1
11
10
3
Now when we see the rising international competitive pressure, which implies a lot of costs and efforts for the riders and their sponsors, and the prize money put in front of it (for the sake of a comparison the Quick New York Pro ASP distributed 1 M$ in 2011...), it is clear that boogie remains above all a matter of enthusiasts dedicated to their discipline... This is another debate, with pros and cons (possibility to live with the sport vs. money pollution) but now you have the visual evidence that the sport about which we are passionate is growing everywhere and is on the right track again...
Cold is the new Gold
TRIBUTE
Trough this black page , the redaction at SLAB in its entirety, wishes to pay homage to all bodyboarders who recently passed away and are now riding other heavens. Ride in peace.
© Steel
custom your clothes on www.wainot.com, only available online
welcome to the brazilian Kalani Lattanzi in the team
Tahitian Carve Photo / J. Le Prevost
Tahitian Dream Photo / J. Leprevost.
Yann Salaun Photo / Yves Quéré
Inside Corsica Photo / CĂŠdric Demeautis
Fronton? No! Rocca Punta in Corse Photo / CĂŠdric Demeautis.
Inside Barrel / N.Marianelli Photo / B. Durand
Beauty island /corse. Photo / CĂŠdric Demeautis.
Satellisation from Southwest Photo / M.Merrien
Inside Tahiti Photos / J. Le Prevost.
Texte / JĂŠrĂŠmie Barlog Photos / Nico Rish, Yves Quere, Olivier Blaschek
SLAB /////
Sometimes, nothing happens as planned.
Cold is the new Gold
I am stuck in my Office. I should be ÂŤNineÂť at the top of a cliff, watching dark water burst the reef and smell the rain mixed with sea spray. But no. The forecast of Thurso has decided otherwise and the week in the highlands was transformed into a job week. Wow. L is for Looser. It is sometimes the case.
SLAB /////
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SLAB mail box is flooded of wild Scottish trip images of more lucky people . Stop. It’s too frustrating to watch that. In a deep sigh of frustration, I close my eyes.
Cold is the new Gold
I listen.
SLAB /////
The roar of my old computer seems to sound by magic as a cold north wind that freezes my bones. I run in the muddy paths as a child. At the end of the prairie, the sea. The waves.
Cold is the new Gold
THat’s it.
I am there.
SLAB /////6
By G. Sisco Photos:N.Risch
Cold is the new Gold
THE DANGEROUS ART OF THE INTERVIEW CANNOT BE LIMITED TO WELLESTABLISHED CURRICULUM VITAE ORDERING NAME, FIRST NAME, EDUCATION, HOBBIES ETC. ESPECIALLY WHEN IN MOST CASES, THE ITW HAS BEEN PERFORMED IN A NONPROTOCOLLED MANNER, OUR FEET IN THE SAND AND WITH THE ROAR OF FAT PIPE SERIES AS A BACKGROUND NOISE. IN THIS GOOD VIBES CONTEXT, OUR SPECIAL REPORTER GREG SISCO LET US NO CHOICE BUT DELIVERING A BULK OF RAW INFO ON A 29 YEARS OLD GUY WHO IS A PURE PRODUCT OF THE AUSTRALIAN WEST COAST AND ONE OF THE LEADERS OF THE WORLD DK SCENE: MR FEAST, KIM FEAST. -**
At home in a solid North Point Photo/N.Risch
SLAB /////
Cold is the new Gold
First of all why did you choose dropknee? Simply because it’s funny! And also because there are less DK riders and therefore the relationships between us are stronger, there is mutual motivation to push the limits of the DK stance. What would be your typical day? Two sessions, if possible. Lunch with my friends and if the next day is forecast to be flat, big party! Your favourite spot in Hawaii? Honolua bay at Mauii. Backdoor and Velzyland on Oahu. And elsewhere in the world, without hesitation: North Point on the West Australian coast. What is the Kim Feast style in the water and outside? When the water is mild I like to wear only a shortboard because I feel more free! And a shorty when it is colder. Outside the water my style is very simple: jean, a good t-shirt, Cap and a pair of sneakers. Competition or freesurf ? I like both, but if I have to choose this will be freesurf: less stress and more freedom! What are your favourite riders? Kainoa McGee, Aka Lyman and Phil Hansberger. When you were young who were your mentors in DK? Phil Hansberger, Dave Ballard, Kainoa McGee, Aka Lyman and Fred Booth. For me the most committed is Kainoa McGee and the more stylish without hesitation Aka Lyman! A super hero? A X-man, Wolverine What do you think of the Matt Lackey project? I have not yet seen it; I know that there is a small sequence of me! I think that it’s good for the dropknee in general and the riders because almost everyone is represented in his film! Bodyboarding (or other) favourite films? Without hesitation Fumanchu and Untouchable. For the rest, I mostly watch comedies. What is your view on the DK Wars competition? It’s cool and fun. It’s a very good concept with less stress than in classic contests.
What kind of music do you listen? I listen of rock, hip-hop, reggae, a little of everything except the country music that I don’t like! At this point in time it’s more electro. In fact it depends on moments. Sometimes a single hooks me and I listen it in loop. What kind of board do you ride? I surf the DKF model from Elit. My current colorway is grey for the surlin and orange for the deck. My board sizes vary between 42.5 and 43 depending on conditions. PP core when it is mild and PE for cold water, all with double stingers and mesh. I expect soon the arrival of my pro model, hopefully for the next season! And blockcut black fins from Toobs at my feet. Do you love and practice other sports? I like basketball, cricket, golf and Australian Football. I swim from time to time to improve my surfing. I was skating but do less now because I wounded myself too often. I’d like to try snowboarding but couldn’t findthe occasion yet! What are your projects for the future (bodyboard, travel, family)? I would certainly like to live as a pro bodyboarder and found a family one day but for now this is not the time. I would like to return to Morocco since the last time I went there, just before my trip to Hawaii, I could not catch good conditions. And for the current “dream destination” this would be the Mentawaii Islands! Do you make a living with the boogie business? Not really for the time being! I also work in a surf shop, but it is poorly paid. In parallel, I am also studying architecture.
For the glory at the box. Photo/N.Risch
SLAB /////6
Cold is the new Gold
Do you know French DK riders? Yes, I know Fabrice Moulin because he’s on the DK Tour. And also Fred Compagnon, who often goes to Morocco. And I know that there are very good DK riders on the Réunion Island because I’ve seen videos and I just read the article you wrote on the DK scene there. You won the DK Pipe Pro, how did you feel and how much did you get? I won 2400 US $ (approximately EUR 1850). Everyone could win because the level was very high! But I am very happy because it’s a mythical event. Did you already come to France? No, I just saw on TV the beaches and spots of Hossegor. Would you like to have a film on you, a “Feast Project”? Yes, indeed! I would essentially put dropknee but I would not be against prone or even shortboard sequences, especially because shortboard inspires me a lot for the DK. //
SLAB /////
Friends at the good place Photos / Owen Milne
Cold is the new Gold
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Joe Clarke /AussiePipe Photo / Stewart Mc Andrew
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Klinton Kettlewell Photo / Ed Sloane
Ewan Donnachie is moving. Photo / Tristan Hogan
Fronton impact Pic: M. Hemon
Elliot William Photo / Jye Mc Donald
Photo / Dylon Parr
SLAB /////5
Elie Beach Photo / Ben Sowry
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Power carve by Cade Sharp Photo / Stewart Mc Andrew
Barrel on the way Photos / Cahal Daham
WA Wedge Photo / Cahal Daham
Shane Ackerman Photo / Mitch Coslovitch
Lewy Finnegan Photo / Cahal Dahm
visit of the stratosphere Photo / John Slupik
BIG, FAT & UGLY.
Those are the first 3 words that come to my mind when I think of Nazaré. Charming small village of fishermen, which beyond its of tradition 7 petticoats dresses, becomes quite often the centre of attraction of our universe. Fat is not only found on Portuguese tables. At Nazaré, it is also present in the water. Tons of water breaking on one of the most inhospitable beach breaks of the globe. Some locals focused their appetite on this place and hence the idea to share the menu with other amateurs of fat waves. Anyway, as evidenced by those pictures, everyone will « eat ». Big thanx to Paulo Caldeira for those pics.
SLAB Magazine Contact: contact@slabmagazine.net Site: www.slabmagazine.net Pub: contact@slabmagazine.net -------------------------------Responsable de publication: Jérémie Barlog / jeremie@slabmagazine.ne Rédacteur en chef: Sérgio Da silva / sergio@slabmagazine.net -------------------------------Direction Artistique: L’atelier30b www.atelier30b.com Words: Arnaud Frene, Greg Sisco, Laurent Bory, Sérgio Da Silva, Jérémie Barlog --------------------------------
Traduction: Laurent Bory, Patrice Carlean-jones xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Photo / AurĂŠlien Leroy
' slab