The Yak #56 by The Yak Magazine

Volume 56 SEP/OCT/NOV 2017

IDR100,000 : S$11 : HK$60 : A$10 : â&#x201A;¬6

vroom old is new canggu republik macy still goofy pepe arcos fajar domingo sea salt laos

B I A S A G R O U P. C O M | B A L I S E M I N Y A K - S A N U R - U B U D - B A T U B E L I G | J A K A R T A K E M A N G

Visit our Jewelry Workshop & Boutique in Ubud. For inquiries and appointments, please contact: Tel: +62 (0)361 469 888 Email: visit@johnhardy.com Johnhardy.com/visit-us-in-bali

UBUD | THE MULIA | BALI AIRPORT @JohnHardyJewelry

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DA MARIA LUNCH + DINNER + LATE NIGHT PIZZA + DISCO Jalan Petitenget no.170 info@damariabali.com damariabali.com

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Volume fifty SIX sept/oct/nov 2017

The Yak Magazine Sophie Digby, Nigel Simmonds, Agustina Ardie, Michelle Lamb Creative Director Stuart Sullivan Sales & Marketing Peta Johnston, Amik Suhartin, Shanty Wijaya Production Manager Evi Sri Rezeki Graphic Designers Irawan Zuhri, Ida Bagus Adi Accounting Julia Rulianti Distribution Made Marjana, Putu Widi Susanto, Gede Swastika, Diaz Pandojo Putra Publisher PT. L.I.P

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Photo: Pepe Arcos. Designers: Mauricio Alpizar and Isabel Dugenest. model: Katerina Morozova. Stylist and Mua:

Advertising Enquiries Tel: (+62 361) 766 539, 085100431804, 085100431805, 085100431796 e: info@theyakmag.com, sales@theyakmag.com The Yak Magazine, Kompleks Perkantoran Simpang Siur Square, Jl. Setia Budi, Kuta, Bali 80361, Indonesia

Angie Anggoro.

OK you know the drill. No part of this publication may be copied or reproduced electronically or otherwise without prior permission from the Publisher. Opinions expressed are those of the authors not the Publisher. The Publisher reserves the right to refuse advertising that does not comply with the magazine's design criteria. The Yak will not be held responsible for copyright infringements on images supplied directly by advertisers and/or contributors. Check us out online, we’re awesome (if we do say so ourselves). Peace.

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contents

Yakety yak

Mix Up

Pimp My Fridge Magnet

Charity First

New and Noted

Good Stuff

Fajar Domingo

dates with destiny

one world

new in the hood

out of the box

culture vulture

82 20

artsake

Paul Mcneil

Macy Gray

Nigel & Yanie Mason

Louise Henry

Camilla and Nikaia Chevillot

Helios Hedar

sounds around

people

duo view

people

passions

Pepe Arcos

Basic Instincts

Bromancing The Stone

yak fashion

feature

104

Barbershops

106

Fade to Grey

114

Motel Mexicola

passions

travel

oral pleasures

126

contents page 92, Omnibus: comeback kings

116

oral pleasures

Luigiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Hot Pizza

118

Ji at Tugu

120

Heritage at Warisan

122

Blow Bar

124

Sea Salt

126

Ulekan

oral pleasures

constant wining

oral pleasures

96 24

128

oral pleasures

The Brunch Bunch

132

El Kabron

136

Meat

138

Cava Cocktails

140

Karma Club

142

Alila Ubud

oral pleasures

Big Six

constant wining

venting in a villa

106

146

spas

Bathing Bliss

150

Client Clobber

158

Mystical Retreats

fashion freestyle

healing

160

Get Insured

162

Whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s What

164

Tomorrow

health

ad directory

astro yak

104

yakback “Reality is that which, when you stop believing in it, doesn’t go away”, wrote Philip K. Dick, Science Fiction author and philosopher. Therefore it stands to reason that augmented reality enhances one’s current perception of reality, (in contrast to virtual reality where the real world is replaced with a simulated one), and if you have ever wandered into one of ARKit’s inter-dimensional portals you might pretty soon realise that here at The Yak we have been ‘future gazing’ into augmented reality for a few years now. Not in the fashion of Apple’s ARKit, which is set to build detailed and compelling virtual content on top of real-world scenes, but rather in our inimitable style of a practical platform containing an out-of-the-box reality, augmented by visuals and connections to the creatives that walk among us. And with this our #56th edition we are here to introduce you to those very same creatives. Firstly, we ask you to augment your understanding of charity, and what it means to give back in our One World section – as we all know there is only this one world, no matter how many other virtual ones we care to create, and so we should share the love. Next up it’s New in the Hood, which offers you a quick glimpse into the new businesses available on our real-world island. We invite you into artist Fajar Domingo’s very unique view of the way he sees the environment that surrounds us, before we inspire you with real-world interviews with Bali-based beings that continually make our lives easier, better and more enjoyable. Pepe Arcos, photographer and freediver, is possibly a walking, talking humanoid “ARKit”, as he shares with you his interdimensional, underwater visions – other-worldly to be sure, but still of this planet, we believe. Yak fashion is next on our interstellar Yak trip, with Nora Dagva – our very dear Mongolian Yakophile – as she and the Basic Instinct pages lead into the Everything Old is New Again Omnibus feature. The Deus boys will then enhance your knowledge of bikes, bromancing Bali, before MK and the pachyderms break your hearts, as we read about a species portal that we are close to closing forever, in Fade to Grey. The Yak’s Oral Pleasures heightens the realness of at least four of our senses at each turn of the page, and leaves you ready to give yourselves over to the tangible realism of luxury with Venting in a Villa. We end this issue with a Mystical Retreat hoping that this might amplify and strengthen your spiritual life force as you take heed of Dr Deepak’s words of wisdom about all things planetary in AstroYak. So whether you are here or somewhere other-worldly, “May The Yak be with you”!

Dear Yak, Visiting Bali for the first time and loving your magazine … smart and sexy! I have 40 clients visiting in March 2018 and would love to provide them with copies in advance. Would there be a possibility of purchasing 20-25 copies? Clients will be coming from the States. Also, where could I buy a copy while here? Have been finding the magazine in restaurants, hotels, and shops but not sure where I can purchase … currently in Ubud. Many thanks in advance!

Dear Yak, Thank you very much for featuring me in your magazine. It’s a real honour and feels like an achievement award for my eight years working here. I’m a happy little bunny. Anton Bali Landscapes You’re welcome buddy.

Christopher Ubud Hi Christopher! Many thanks for the love. You can buy from Periplus bookstore. And we fully understand the need for a break from you know where. Dear Yak, Just wanted to send you a big thank you for your news on our tents in your last issue, as always it looks amazing and it was a pleasure working with your team! Thanks and congratulations for making a great issue every time! Maria Garcia del Cerro Escape Nomade Living Without Walls Ubud

Love in tents. Love intense? We love a wordplay, especially if it’s under canvas.

Dear Yak, [This is from our next intern] Your magazine seems to be an interesting internship possibility for me because of the attention that is given to all platforms in the modern age. My study is mainly focused on online content. When I look at The Yak’s website, I see that you are very professional in the field of online content. I think I can learn a lot here. Billie Clarijs Holland. Two sugars in my coffee please - Ed

In The Lap Of: John Legend American singer-songwriter John Legend appears to have enjoyed a pleasant break with his family on Indonesia’s most famous island. They even got dressed up in traditional Balinese wedding garb ... and managed to look pretty cool – not something that can always be said when tourists don the local prada!

Design + Performance™ and Legendary Performance Fabrics™ are trademarks and Sunbrella® is a registered trademark of Glen Raven, Inc.

L E G E N DA R Y P E R F O R M A N C E FA B R I C S ™

S U N B R E L L A .C O M

calendar

fridge magnet fodder for the peripatetic.

ULTRA BEACH BALI What better way to end the summer on a high note than with two days of amazing beats by world renowned DJs, spectacular light shows and dance performances and all-around good vibes in an exotic beachside setting? ULTRA throws some of the most primo electronic music festivals on the planet, and they’ll be packing out Potato Head Beach Club on September 14th and September 15th with headliners like Hardwell, Kygo, Zedd, and Slushii throwing down on the decks next to Potato Head’s ocean-facing pool. If you’ve never been to an ULTRA party before, then ULTRA Beach Bali is definitely an experience you don’t want to miss. www.ultrabali.com FORMULA 1 SINGAPORE - FEATURING THE YAK! The Formula 1 Singapore Airlines Singapore Grand Prix will be tearing up the Marina Bay Street Circuit from September 15th to September 17th and fans are already revving their engines because this year’s F1 weekend is set to be the most spectacular yet. This is the 10th anniversary of the world’s first and only Formula 1 night race, so you can expect to see tons of action both on and off the track. Don’t forget to check us out at the Podium Lounge at The Ritz-Carlton Hotel for the three race nights as The Yak curates nightly fashion shows at the event’s biggest F1 party! Featuring Macy Gray, Coolio, Pixie Geldof and a whole lot more! www.singaporegp.sg www.podiumlounge.com/sg/ IF YOU’RE IN NEW ZEALAND… September 21 to October 8 The World of WearableArt Awards Show: Theatre, fashion and art collide at The World of WearableArt Awards Show, an international design competition that encourages inspiring and aspiring designers to push the boundaries of their creativity with original designs constituting pretty much anything that is in any way wearable. The competition attracts hundreds of entries from all around the world and the awards show is simply spectacular with outrageous outfits on display that you won’t find on any other runway in the world. November 16 to November 19 Taste of Auckland: It’s no surprise that Aucklanders love their food, as they’ve got some of New Zealand’s best seafood, steaks and wines right at their doorstep, plus a diverse array of restaurants serving all sorts of global cuisine. Taste of Auckland is a celebration of what’s hot in Auckland’s foodie scene with a plethora of pop-up wineries and food stalls by some of the city’s most exciting restaurants. Spread out over 5,000 square metres, the festival offers afternoon and evening tasting sessions where you have up to five hours to peruse the stalls for everything from oysters to ramen, curries, craft beers and more. IF YOU’RE IN INDIA… October 18 to October 22 Diwali: Diwali is the ancient Hindu festival of lights that celebrates good over evil and light over darkness, and it is one of the biggest and most important celebrations in the Indian calendar. In the days leading up to Diwali, the cities and towns around India will be hives of activity with people cleaning their houses and shopping for new clothes and accessories. On the night of Diwali nearly every window, doorstep and temple sparkles with lights to welcome in the goddess Lakshmi, people dress to the nines, and after the evening puja (prayers), there are huge celebrations in the streets with fireworks followed by family feasts. October 23 to November 1 Pushkar Fair: Every autumn the small town of Pushkar

BALI VEGAN FESTIVAL For those of the plant-eating persuasion, the Bali Vegan Festival will be kicking off on October 6th at Paradiso Ubud and running until October 8th with a huge offering of tasty vegan dishes and products from some of Bali’s best plant-loving restaurants, as well as vegan, macrobiotic and raw cooking demos, community discussions and family-friendly activities and films. Created in 2015 by Down to Earth, this free festival is open to vegans and the vegan-curious, and it aims to educate and inspire people about an alternative cruelty-free lifestyle and the benefits of switching to a plant-based diet. www.baliveganfestival.com UBUD WRITERS & READERS FESTIVAL From their humble beginnings in 2002, the Ubud Writers & Readers Festival has evolved into one of Southeast Asia’s leading celebrations of words and ideas with a diverse mix of literary luminaries, artists and human rights activists. Taking place at various venues in Ubud from October 25th to October 29th, the festival will feature thought-provoking conversations, hands-on workshops, literary lunches and debates with guests like crime writer Ian Rankin, Canadian historical fiction writer Madeleine Thien, and Malaysian political author and activist Marina Mahatir, as well as performances by Indonesia’s premier theatre group Papermoon and other world-class musicians and artists. www.ubudwritersfestival.com

explodes into a riot of colours and cacophony as more than 400,000 people flock to the river banks here to take part in religious processions and one of the biggest camel trading fairs in the world. Villagers come from all over Rajasthan with thousands of camels, horses and cattle, as well as gorgeous textiles and jewellery to sell at makeshift bazaars. The fair starts off with a camel race and continues on for over a week with events like cricket matches, concerts, beauty contests and acrobatic performances. IF YOU’RE IN FRANCE… September 14 to September 17 Feria des Vendanges (Nimes): September marks the wine harvest season and the end of bullfighting season in Southern France, and the city of Nimes celebrates both with four days of festivities that seems almost more Spanish than French. Count on plenty of bullfights, horse races and parades during the days, and at night the streets come alive with live bands, flamenco dancers and al fresco bodegas packed with punters imbibing local tipples like Pastis, wine and sangria. September 26 to October 2 Paris Fashion Week: It may be last on the ‘Big 4’ fashion week schedule after New York, London and Milan, but Paris Fashion Week is definitely not the least. This elite fall fashion event will showcase the women’s spring and summer 2018 lines by some of the heavy hitters of the fashion world including Issey Miyake, Vivienne Westwood, Stella McCartney and Elie Saab with ready-to-wear and haute couture creations. You can also expect to see collections by up-and-coming designers who are well on track for stardom like Rahul Mishra and Yang Li. October 7 Nuit Blanche (Paris): See Paris in a whole new light at Nuit Blanche, a nocturnal art extravaganza where international and home grown artists set up installations, exhibitions, light and sound shows and performances in a variety of eclectic locations across the city. Many of the city’s museums, cultural institutions and art galleries will stay open all night free of charge, and public transportation will also run until the early hours of the morning so night owls can plot their route to one spectacle after another.

giving back

charity begins at home.

THE INDO THRIVE PROJECT As one of the owners of the iconic Motel Mexicola and Da Maria, a new osteria style eatery in Seminyak, Adrian Reed lives and breathes Bali. Hailing from Sydney, Australia, Adrian began travelling to Bali frequently with his parents from the age of 11, and as he formed a deep emotional attachment to what was almost like a second home to him, the seeds were sown for the profound connections he now has to the island, its environment and the people. With high levels of creative intensity and motivation, the self-confessed former bad boy of the Bali party scene has in recent years channelled his focus towards some amazing community initiatives that are making a genuine difference to the lives of hundreds of people and putting back into the culture he loves. At the heart of Adrian’s understated philanthropy is The Indo Thrive Project, a foundation set up to assist disadvantaged people in the Indonesian community. It all began when Adrian met Amanda Bruce, who told him about a woman who had been sleeping in the waiting room of a hospital for two months so she could care for her injured daughter. The family was from a poor village and had no food, transport or accommodation options, so the woman was surviving on rice and peanuts for the duration of her daughter’s stay. Adrian says, “After visiting the terminally ill children in the Sanglah Hospital Bali and seeing all of their family members sleeping on the floor or street, it became apparent that there were no accommodation options for them. This was simply unacceptable to me and I had to act.” Together Adrian and Amanda established The Indo Thrive Project and purchased a 24-room, high-end apartment building attached to the Sanglah Hospital, which was originally designed as accommodation for doctors. They recently converted this into Thrive House, a place to temporarily house families with terminally ill children undergoing hospital treatment. The aim of Thrive House is to provide a ‘home away from home’ for family members of hospital patients so that the families can be close to and nurture the patient. Eligibility is determined case-by-case with advice from a doctor at the hospital, which removes a lot of the politics and red tape. Once approved, the family members receive an individual secure room, daily food requirements for the duration of the hospital treatment and psychiatric support free of charge. Another initiative under the Indo Thrive Project has been the procurement of 280 wheelchairs with an Australian company providing the wheelchairs and Adrian financing the delivery and distribution throughout Indonesia. You would think with such a huge undertaking and additional businesses to run, Adrian would have his hands full, but this tireless crusader for good is also currently working on initiatives to keep plastic waste from ending up in the ocean and developing an introductory hospitality training programme for Indonesian people and a TV programme to showcase local talent in the service industry. He says, “Indonesia has been incredible for me and I am extremely passionate about giving back to the community and to the planet, to Bali and Indonesia as a whole.”

A huge part of Adrian Reed’s work is raising funds to keep these projects running by staging sponsorship and auction events at his establishments. He has also launched the Adopt-A-Room programme where organisations can ‘adopt’ a room at Thrive House with proceeds going towards accommodation costs, home amenities and support for families in need. For more information please contact The Thrive Indo Project team at +62 819 3627 4045. Social Impakt It is estimated that in Indonesia approximately 34 million people do not have access to clean water, and Bali is no exception. Many rural villages in Bali suffer extreme droughts during the dry season, and out of the villages that do manage to procure water, much of it comes in the form of plastic water bottles, which more often than not end up in the rivers and ocean. In light of this, one pioneering philanthropist is aiming to tackle both these problems at their root. Back in 2011, Jeroen van Overbeek was the vice president of a large British corporation that managed seven factories and over 800 employees, and he was constantly travelling in an effort to earn more money for the business and himself. However, at one point he experienced a shift in perspective and realised that he was helping companies to make money, but not actually helping people. He decided to quit his job and soon after travelled to Indonesia where he fell in love with the people and the culture. Throughout his travels in Indonesia, Jeroen was alarmed by the living conditions he came across in rural areas and the alarming numbers of child deaths caused by drinking unsafe water. For example, in Indonesia alone 20,000 children under the age of five die every year from waterborne diseases. Jeroen realised that his business skills could be put to use here, and he embarked on a mission to improve access to clean water in remote communities in Indonesia. In 2013 Social Impakt was born. Social Impakt was created with the aim of delivering affordable and eco-friendly water filtration technology to remote communities. They do this by providing villages with Nazava Water filters, which use ceramic, silver and activated carbon to purify water at the household level without the need to boil water or use electricity. In addition, they have set up a network of 30 water filter re-sellers in villages in Bali, which creates new income opportunities, raises awareness about clean water and empowers people to create a better future for themselves and their communities. So far Social Impakt has already positively impacted the lives of over 15,000 people in rural Indonesia, but there is so much more work to be done. In light of this, Jeroen has recently set up a crowd funding campaign on UpEffect with the goal of raising 60,000 Euros to finance the purchase of 2,000 water filters for three villages and 25 schools in Sideman, Karangasem. If successful, the campaign will have a huge impact on improving the villager’s health and income and reducing the use of plastic bottles and CO2 emissions in these communities. www.social-impakt.com

INSPIRED BY THE SPIRIT OF NAGA Luxury artisan jewellery brand John Hardy has unleashed the dragon with their latest Naga collection under new Creative Director Hollie Bonneville Barden. The collection showcases stones such as golden sheen sapphire, silver sheen obsidian, and bi-colour amethyst as the ultimate symbols of nature’s elemental strength, transmitted to the wearer. Bonneville Barden notes, “I selected the stones not just for their suggestion of power, drama, the fascination of light and colour, but the power of creation they represent. I wanted to show nature’s strength through creation.” Tel: +62 361 469 888 www.johnhardy.com

UNCONVENTIONAL UNDERWATER WEDDINGS Make your special day absolutely unforgettable by taking the plunge in unconventional style with Alila Manggis’ newest offering, an underwater wedding where couples can exchange their vows beneath the waves in the crystal clear waters off Bali’s East coast. Suitable for divers and non-divers alike, the Underwater Wedding package includes a wedding rehearsal in the pool, dive introduction and dive gear familiarisation, a wedding celebrant, two dive buddies, a beautifully decorated jukung boat to transport the bride and groom, as well as two nights’ accommodation and complimentary romantic dining and spa experiences. Tel: +62 363 410 11 www.alilamoments.com/manggis/why-east-bali/ 38

TSTORE: A DESIGNER’S HUB Bali has a new hub for fashionistas with the opening of TStore, an exclusive designer collection store located in TS Suites Hotel Bali right in the heart of Seminyak. The 1,600 square metre space aims to be the ultimate destination for designers to develop their business network and gain new inspiration from Bali’s fashion scene, as well as a place where savvy shoppers can pick up an endless array of apparel, bags, shoes and accessories from some of the hottest Indonesian and local designers and indulge in personal shopping and personal styling services, something Indonesia has never seen before. Tel: +62 21 7592 0222 www.tstore.co.id

HOT EATS AND BEATS AT LUIGI’S HOT PIZZA When Maurice Terzini and Adrian Reed joined forces to bring us Da Maria Bali, they saw such a great response to their authentic Italian cuisine that they decided to come together once again to create a pizza-centric spot in the heart of the Canggu Junction. Luigi’s Hot Pizza is a low-key affair where good food, good drinks and good music are the vibe. In the kitchen a custom-made pizza oven from Naples takes centre place and the chefs put out fresh salads, antipasti and Neapolitan-style pizzas with tasty toppings. There is also a bar serving up cheeky cocktails and a Funktion-One sound system where DJs throw down beats seven nights a week. www.luigishotpizza.com

INSPIRED BALINESE ELEGANCE ON KUTA BEACH With its charming ambience and breathtaking ocean views, The ANVAYA Beach Resort Bali is a tropical hideaway featuring 495 modern and spacious guestrooms and suites, and a single stunning villa, each one offering the highest standard of facilities, amenities and professional service, uniquely combined with Indonesian hospitality and traditional cultures.

Jl. Kartka Plaza, Tuban, Kuta Bali 80361 - Indonesia Ph: (62 361) 759991, Fax: (62 361) 751268, 759992 Email: sales@theanvayabali.com | www.theanvayabali.com @theanvayabeachresortbali

theanvayabali

BEACHFRONT BOUNTY Nothing says tropical island living like indulging in exotic cocktails and fresh seafood while dipping your toes in the sand and watching the sun sink into the sea. Now every Sunday from 3pm to 7pm, Anantara Seminyak Bali Resort is offering up a bountiful beach picnic buffet on the sands of Seminyak beach with an enticing array of Western and Asian dishes like salads, fried noodles, grilled fish and meats, sandwiches, pizzas and desserts. Also on offer are healthy cold pressed juices and fine wines, plus live music by talented local bands. Guests can also access Anantara’s impressive main pool before and after the feast. Tel: +62 361 737 773 www.bali.anantara.com

BALI INTERNATIONAL FILM FESTIVAL Now in its 11th year, Balinale is Bali’s preeminent international film festival showcasing all genres of films including fiction, documentaries, features and shorts from independent and award-winning filmmakers from Indonesia and around the world. The festival takes place from September 24 to September 30 at Cinemaxx in Lippo Mall Kuta with the theme, ‘Connecting Communities Through the World of Film’. In addition to fabulous film screenings, you can expect movie premieres, celebrity meet and greets, exhibitions, sneak peeks of upcoming films and a spectacular parade showcasing elaborate costumes by Jember Fashion Carnaval. Tel: +62 361 270 908 www.balinale.com 40

PLAGA NEW BLOOD A new red wine is about to hit the Indonesian market that is different from any other vino out there. Plaga’s new baby (or as the Argentinians call new additions to the family, ‘new blood’) came about after two years of hard work exploring new wineries and experimenting with different blends. The result is a full-bodied, easy-drinking red made with Cabernet Sauvignon grapes from Chile, Cabernet Sauvignon and Tempranillo grapes from Spain, and Shiraz from Italy. Perfect for pairing with red meats and pastas, this Cabernet Sauvignon Blend embodies a beautiful balance of two hemispheres. www.plagawine.com

PURE PAMPERING AT PRANA SPA Set in lush tropical gardens, Prana Spa Seminyak is one of Bali’s most awarded spas, having won multiple accolades for their unique design that draws inspiration from exotic Eastern cultures and their revitalising spa treatments based on ancient and modern rituals. Never one to rest on their laurels, Prana Spa has upped the ante yet again by recently renovating their stunning plunge pool for a much brighter look, and they are now offering guests the opportunity to enjoy this oasis of tranquillity compliments of them when you book treatments of two hours or more. Tel: +62 361 730 840 www.pranaspabali.com

MATCHA CAFE BALI The matcha craze that has been sweeping the globe now has an official foothold in Bali with the introduction of Matcha Cafe Bali in the Berawa hood. Serving up organic matcha green tea bevvies and a slew of healthy seasonal dishes, this chic cafe is your one-stop spot for antioxidant-packed matcha milkshakes and lattes, sweet treats like matcha ice cream and cheesecake, and colourful Mediterranean inspired dishes packed with fresh veggies. For all the matcha purists out there, youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll be pleased to know they only use the highest-grade organic matcha from the Uji region of Kyoto in Japan. www.matchacafebali.com

BANGKOK HUSTLE Back in the day you would have to hustle pretty hard to scrounge up some good Thai food in the Gu, but now all you have to do is make your way to the Bangkok Hustle kiosk at Berawa Kitchen for authentic Thai street food style dishes made with fresh local and sustainable produce and a few must-have imported pastes and spices. Think aromatic lamb massaman curry, green papaya salad with a spicy kick, and pad thai noodles loaded with rice noodles, crunchy beansprouts, peanuts and your choice of chicken or tofu in a tangy tamarind-based sauce. www.facebook.com/bangkokhustlebali

RED CARPET NIGHTCLUB Here at the Yak we always have our ear to the ground about the latest happenings in the hood, and rumours were flying about new and exciting plans going down at Red Carpet Champagne Bar. The owners recently gave us private tour of their new venture, a swanky nightclub called Red Carpet Late. This sexy new spot features vintage Parisian accents blended with advanced LED light and sound systems, and guests will have access to VIP drink lockers, private booths and visual and acoustic performances to rival any other nightclub on the island. And of course, the staff will offer the same signature personalised service that Red Carpet Champagne Bar is famous for. Tel: +62 361 934 2794 www.redcarpetchampagnebar.com 42

SENSATIA BOTANICALS IN SANUR Sensatia Botanicals began making their organic skincare products in 2000 in the small village of Jasri, Karangasem with just three employees, and now they are one of the most soughtafter brands on the island with over 80 employees, multiple shops in major cities including Seminyak, Ubud, Canggu and Kuta, and products in world-class hotels like Mandapa Ritz Carlton, Karma Resorts and Alila Hotels. Their newest location is on Jalan Danau Tamblingan, Sanur, with a shop on the ground floor selling their latest lines of eco-friendly sunblock, shampoo, body lotion and more and a sales and media office on the second floor. Tel: +62 363 23 260 www.sensatia.com ATLAS PEARLS BRIDAL COLLECTION For more than 20 years, Atlas Pearls has been harvesting highly sought-after silver and white South Sea pearls from their eco-farms spread out across the Indonesian archipelago and supplying major brands and fashion houses in style hubs like New York, Paris, Sydney and Bali. Their new bridal collection adds to their dazzling array of high-end pieces and is now on display and available for purchase in the Tea Room of their exclusive boutique on Jalan Raya Seminyak. The collection includes gorgeous handmade wedding bands and rings adorned with their signature pearls. Tel: +62 361 732 769 www.atlaspearls.com.au

L IVIN WITHO SG FA L L I N LO VEG ... WITU HT G L AWAL MPILN

The need to get back in touch with Nature is becoming the decisive factor for the Third Millenniumâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s traveller, who is escaping from urban centers and who is eager to embark on journeys rich in experiences and authenticity but also five star services. SO GLAMPING WAS BORN (GLAMOUR + GLAMPING) Glamping is a model of eco tourism that can realize this dream: it uses eco-structures, STRUCTURES WITH ZERO ENVIRONMENTAL IMPACT, perfectly integrated with the surroundings, ecological and eco-friendly but with comfortable, luxurious and refined furnishings, continuously inspired by the criteria of environmental respect.

CRAFT BEER CRAVINGS When it comes to craft beers, Beervana brings the best of the best to Bali and the rest of Indonesia, and their latest release is a line of Kiwi gems from Tuatara Brewery. Since the beginning, Tuatara has led the New Zealand craft beer revolution with a series of mouthpopping brews that are as vibrant as the land herself. Made with 100 per cent natural New Zealand ingredients, from the purest water to incredibly expressive hops, their Pilsner, Sauvinova and APA bottles are pure New Zealand in a bottle. Keep an eye out for these artisan brews at select venues around Bali. Tel: +62 21 5835 0813 www.beervana.asia

HAUTE ROOFTOP As if you needed another reason to visit Alila Seminyak’s stunning seaside sanctuary, they’ve now gone and opened Haute Rooftop, a seductive new hangout with three dining areas, a chic bar and lounge with leather bar stools and velvet sofas, and a sun deck overlooking the ocean. From this lofty locale you can indulge in modern French cuisine, Asian-inspired cocktails and a wide selection of fine wines. Open for lunch and dinner, this is the perfect spot for light bites amid ocean breezes, sundowner bevvies, private parties and late-night dance sessions under the stars. www.alilahotels.com/seminyak/

HERITAGE INDOCHINE AND DIMSUM After successfully establishing themselves in the Ubud foodie scene, Heritage Indochine and Dimsum is now serving up their elegant Vietnamese and Chinese cuisine in Seminyak. Immerse yourself in old school Saigon and Shanghai vibes in their oriental inspired space and indulge in classic Indochine dishes like aromatic bowls of pho, fresh summer rolls, bamboo baskets filled with steamed dumplings and pork buns, and roast Peking duck. Pair it with an iced Vietnamese coffee with condensed milk or a lemongrass green tea and you’re good to go. Tel: +62 0877 6181 2958 www.facebook.com/heritageindochinedimsum SHMURGER BURGER Another wildly popular venture by the Good Food Brotherhood, who also brought us Watercress, Milk & Madu and Bangkok Hustle, Shmurger Burger is located in Berawa Kitchen and a foodie favourite for those who love comfort food. Executive Chef Josh Job focuses on quality ingredients to build burgers to suit all tastes including his classic all-beef American style burgers, meaty bacon burgers, zingy Peri Peri chicken burgers and tasty vegetarian options. Even better, you can stuff that burger in your face without having to worry about decorum in this totally laid-back and unpretentious space. www.facebook.com/shmurgerburger

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HEALING WITH BLING Jewellery designer Anna Michielan has always been about so much more than just the bling. Using the finest gemstones and crystals, she and her talented team of Balinese artisans create covet-worthy pieces that don’t just look gorgeous, but also aim to heal, protect and bring balance to your life. She recently opened the Anna Michielan Healing Jewellery store on Jalan Mertanadi where she gently guides customers in their quest to discover the stones that will suit them best to achieve their goals and fulfil their purpose. Bringing a piece of Bali home with you, blessed and charged in the island of the gods, has never been so elegant and fun. Tel: +62 821 4619 4475 www.annamichielan.com

PALETAS WEY Who doesn’t love popsicles on a hot Bali day, especially if said popsicles are made with uber-tasty seasonal ingredients like tropical fruits, crunchy nuts and rich chocolate? Established in 2015, Paletas Wey were the first company to introduce Mexican style popsicles paletas to the island, and they now have a brand-spanking new joglo on Jalan Mertanadi to serve up their artisanal frozen treats to the Seminyak crowds. Here you will find 26 of their best-selling flavours like Watermelon Lime, Vanilla Oreo, Banana-Nutella, Durian, Kiwi and Chocolate. Tel: +62 361 907 3621 www.paletaswey.com

RED RUBY Hailed as ‘a hedonistic home for those of us who don’t play by the rules’, Red Ruby is the newest addition to Seminyak’s clubbing scene. This multi-room, late-night space draws inspiration from some of Europe’s most avant-garde clubs in Ibiza, Barcelona and Amsterdam, and it features a breezy outdoor terrace serving up beverages, bites and live blues and jazz bands, as well an intimate back room for a slightly more exclusive experience. They will also be showcasing stellar local and international artists encompassing a wide spectrum of electronic music from Wednesday to Saturday every week. Tel: +62 361 473 2884 www.redruby.club

GET TIPSY AT TUSU Cocktail connoisseurs are in for a treat at Tusu, Jalan Pantai Berawa’s newest kid on the block that is part Caribbean fusion eatery and part cocktail bar. Tusu means ‘tipsy’ in Haitian Creole, and owners Sarah and Robby Rhau have collaborated with mixologist Maya Farrow to exude this concept to its full extent. Born and raised in Haiti, now living in Bali, the trio have created a stylish setting with black walls lined with hundreds of books and vintage records, comfy leather sofas and a menu featuring fun tropicalinspired cocktails and Caribbean cuisine like fresh ceviche and fiery chicken wings. Be sure to stop by for their weekend DJ sessions and monthly ‘Visa Run’ parties. Tel: +62 812 3746 2008 www.facebook.com/tusubali 46

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culture vulture Tony Stanton caught up with digital collage maverick Fajar Domingo after his successful outing at W Hotel Bali - Seminyak

Wonderful images Mr Fajar – we’ll get to that. In the meantime can you tell us a bit about yourself; where you’re from and how you grew up? Thank you! I was born in Malang, East Java, and grew up in Surabaya. Now I live in Jakarta running a graphic design studio with a friend. How did you get started with the art, and what path has led you to where you are now? Like many other kids (I guess) I used my bedroom wall as a canvas. I cut up my sister’s magazines and glued stuff together to make my world. When I got older I studied graphic design and continued to make art in my leisure time.

you once work in a bank and decide the chuck it all in and follow your dreams? I wanted to be an artist from when I was a kid, but my family was against it, so I went into graphic design instead. What would you be doing if you weren’t an artist? I don’t know, maybe a singer in a rock band! What’s the project you’ve been working on with W Bali Seminyak? I created the artwork and visual atmosphere for the resort’s yearly summer party. It became the main visual for the event itself

What’s the process involved here? Is it always in the same medium? For now, yes. Digital collage. I’m fascinated with old photos and the stories behind them, whether it’s something I see in a magazine or on the internet … or even in my grandma’s photo collections. Somehow I am compelled to make something from them, to create something totally new, both with the images and the stories that go with them.

Which artist has most influenced you over time? I would have to say René Magritte.

Where do the ideas come from? From everyday life.

Favourite book? Animal Farm by George Orwell.

Do you find yourself returning to the same themes? I do. I always start out to create something new but often the same themes come through.

Favourite footwear? Sneakers!

How would you define yourself as an artist? I make a living as a graphic designer, but more and more people recognise me as an artist. Somehow it has become a strength to be a designer who knows art, and an artist who understands design.

OK a few quick questions: Favourite colour? Don’t have one. Every colour has its own story. Favourite movie/s? Mostly Japanese. Akira Kurosawa’s movies always move me.

And finally, do you have a mantra that you live by? The world doesn’t happen to you, it happens from you! True that. Thanks for your time Fajar. www.saatchiart.com/ohfajar

Do you suffer for your art? Yes! But the final piece is always a great pay off. Has it always been the main focus of your life? Or did

culture vulture

flower girl and right: derbby.

artsake

Artist and Mambo progenitor Paul McNeil is still goofy after all these years. He spoke to Tony Stanton about life, love and his latest show.

Batty as a box of frogs.

Paul McNeil - where is you place in art history? At the front of the line at the bar, possibly buying a drink for Picasso and Keith Haring. Then I walk back to their table and they say: “Sorry, someone’s sitting here.” Yeah that’s my place in art history. Who really started Mambo, and when did you know it was all over? Visually Richard Allan started the whole thing rolling. One guy with so many ideas and the ability to execute them. Absolutely fantastic and cutting edge in everything he touched. Mambo over? It seems to keep rolling on in some form. I think the artists never considered it starting or ending, it’s their art and soul and life, that stuff never ends. We are all still doing art. What’s Art Park? Art Park is an Art brand/concept I started with my mate Craig Rochfort in Byron Bay in 2010. A gallery, a clothing label, a magazine and Artist residency. It’s been fun introducing a lot of new art into our small town. It was my main aim when I moved up there, that and surfing! Where did the irreverence come from? It comes from the need to make people think a little bit more. We are living in very controlled times, no one rebels against anything. Bring back Punk Rock!! Who did you grow up reading? Superhero comics and all that. Anything colourful! Plus I really dug Chopper and Hot Rod magazines. Books didn’t come along until later but I did recall being petrified reading The Exorcist. What else were you into as a nipper? As a kid all I did was ride my bike, all day every day. Then skateboards came along and consumed me. That was it. Growing up in New Zealand … it’s very easy to get wrapped up in sports. Skiing at five years old. Surfing at 10. The mountains and the beach are minutes away. What did your parents do? Dad was a butcher, mum was a florist/dressmaker. I guess that’s where I get my animalistic/sensitive personality from. What posters did you have on your wall when you were a kid? I had a Bridgette Bardot poster (and I had no idea who she was, but strangely it felt good to look at her). Then Golden Breed surf posters and probably Neil Young too. Favourite footwear? Thongs (sandals/flip flops) because that means I’m somewhere hot! Favourite cartoon character? The Phantom comic character has some incredible personality traits, but I’m just as happy with Homer or Peter Griffin. Can you recite a line of poetry to us? Yes I can. It’s a lyric of a Go-Betweens song but all good lyrics are poetry. It’s written in big letters Graffiti all over town It says troublemakers on the run And both our names are written down Oh but infamy or fame Each came in a small dose I just wish the day would come When the last one would be so close

If you had to lose one of your senses, which one would it be and why? Everyone says smell to this question, right? I go to so many gigs and nowadays they don’t allow smoking so people farting at these events is a real problem. Yeah, smell. How would you classify your art? I hope it appears to be poppy and funny, but I also know it’s loaded with an element of truth and darkness. I’m trying to say something in the simplest form. It’s taken years to hone that skill. How long did it take to put together the Still Goofy show? It took a few weeks. I’ve been doing back-to-back shows for one year so I have been continually painting. Tokyo was one week before my Bali show so I have been painting about 50 paintings for all my shows. Been quite exhausting but hey, it’s what I love. How would you like to be remembered? I’d like to be remembered as someone who added some colour and humour to a grey world. You’ve done artwork for The Beastie Boys, Lemonheads, Sonic Youth … the list goes on and on. Who is the greatest of them all, and can we have a rock anecdote please! Where do I start. Ok so I did a Rolling Stones poster last year so I guess that they are the greatest, right? But on a personal level I get absolutely thrilled to work with bands that I love. Cool bands that have shaped and inspired my life – Smog, The Clean, Sonic Youth, Dinosaur Jnr., Pavement. My buddy who is a promotor said to me: “Paul I’m bringing Nirvana out to Aus again next year … I want you to do the poster.” I thought, oh cool, that’s a big deal, I’d better think up something REALLY GOOD. But then Kurt died. That’s not a very happy anecdote, is it? Murray from the Wiggles always says hello to me. (That’s better, right? What’s most important to you in life? Having laughs with friends backstage at rock festivals. If you had your time again what would you do differently? I would have figured out what I really wanted to do earlier in my life and pursued it then. Older people always say, “you can’t do that” … but you can. Start doing pointlessly awesome stuff now and don’t stop! Paul, you’re a legend. Thanks so much for your time. www.paulmcneil.com

artsake

bali exhibition daze.

You know who she is.

gray scale.

sounds around

Soon to be blazing through Singapore’s annual F1 Weekend for the VIP after-parties at The Podium Lounge, Grammy-winning Soul-crooner Macy Gray was gracious enough to share some time online with us to get our engines running. So Macy, have you been to Bali before? Any first impressions you can remember? Yes, Bali’s definitely one of the most beautiful places I have ever been to. I cannot wait to come back, again and again! Growing up – how did you first get into music? Musical family? Yes, my parents were always playing old records around the house. I definitely grew up in a musical household. I started playing music when I was seven years old. When I got to college at the University of Southern California, I used to hang around school bands and a bunch of other musicians all the time, and I began writing lyrics for them, so I could hang around this guitarist I fancied. One night his singer didn’t show up, so I got the opportunity to step up and perform as the lead singer, and the rest is history! When I became famous, I got married and have subsequently had three beautiful kids. Who would you say were your strongest influences in high school days and why? Besides so many different musical influences and records I would listen to, I would say my family . . . for obvious reasons, because high school wasn’t always easy at times, so having that unconditional support helped me get through it. I was teased for my funny voice and big head, but that’s where I was seduced by the three icons of the 80s: Madonna, Michael Jackson and Prince. I even painted my bedroom purple in homage to his landmark album, Purple Rain! How do you see the whole music industry scene these days? Pre and post-Youtube days? It’s so different! Artists are having to tour more and more as records aren’t selling for everyone. You need to be exrtremely creative and constantly come up with cool content. Ultimately

you still have to create amazing music. Your most recent album Stripped uses a binaural microphone for recording a more natural acoustic listening experience – how did you find this experience and would you continue this for future recordings? It was different but came out great. We used one microphone for the entire recording process, which took just 48 hours. Back in the day, that’s how they made records. It’s a very natural sound. It’s for people who are music aficionados – audiophiles. I definitely plan on putting out more jazz albums. Not necessarily the exact same way, but I just love making jazz records. Maybe put out singles or something. Any future collaborations or projects you would like to see happen? I can maybe see some future colloborations into some crossover-Country and would love to collaborate with artists in Asia. I think that would be incredible and continue promoting new music across the world and tour. What’s your toughest challenge these days? I try not to look at what my challenges are, but rather what I’m great at and just master that. How do you see President Trump so far? Do you think the music community could have done more to deter this? I think he needs to figure it out or who knows what will happen. He’s an amateur – he’s never done this before. This dude has never even been a mayor and I think that’s dangerous, that’s dangerous for our country when he talks to other world leaders who have devoted their entire careers to politics. What’s your dream? To headline and play at the Rose Bowl in Pasadena, California. Favourite footwear? Anything comfortable. I love wearing heels and dressing up on stage but it’s painful. Ha! Macy’s latest album Stripped is available at chesky.com/album/stripped

people

Stephanie Mee meets the O.G. Bamboo Blonde, louise henry. Image: Saskia Koerner.

Hi Louise, thanks for taking the time to chat. So tell us, how did your love affair with Bali begin? It was back in 1995 when I first visited the Island. It was an instant attraction and felt like home from the get go! What planted the idea for you to start your own clothing line? Before I settled in Bali I used to manufacture in Australia for a small clothing line which I started whilst living in Jakarta. My family are in the fashion industry back home so it was a natural progression. Who are your fashion muses? Just like trends change, so do my ‘muses’, which truthfully I don’t really have. I’ve always been inspired by the bohemian style since I first saw Stevie Nicks. Luckily, Bali being a fashion mecca, we’re surrounded by talented designers. I’m currently loving the designs of Spell, One Teaspoon and Free People and have always had a crush on anything by Sass and Bide. Can tell us a bit about the early days of Bamboo Blonde back in 2007? Everything was a struggle 10 years ago in Bali and Bamboo Blonde was no different. I was a lot younger and a lot more enthusiastic with a lot more drive to get me through the 10 years. Were there any particular challenges or surprises in the beginning? Everything is a challenge when you’re starting a new business. Surprises, where do you want me to start? Bali is full of surprises. Today you have 11 stores in Bali and an online shop where people can order Bamboo Blonde apparel and accessories worldwide. What is the secret to the brand’s success? It is my very big team behind what appears to be a well-oiled machine that allows the brand to keep up with the fast fashion world.

You learn that you can’t have it all. You’ve got to be the ultimate multi-tasker and delegator. Every day brings new challenges and I’m constantly learning. Running a fashion label must be pretty demanding at times. What do you do to find balance when things get stressful? I decided to open Bali’s first Blow Bar. There’s nothing a glass of wine can’t fix! How have you seen the fashion industry in Bali change over the years and where do you see it going? Bali is now a mecca for fashion in Asia, especially for young up-andcoming designers. The retail industry is absolutely booming. I can’t see it slowing down anytime soon. If you could go back in time to when you were first starting to create Bamboo Blonde, what advice would you give yourself? The past is the past. I really haven’t had time to think about it. I can’t remember what I did last week let alone 10 years ago. How would you define good fashion sense? And is there such thing as bad fashion sense? I think it’s up to the individual and how they carry it off. If you’re confident in what you’re wearing, it’s all about individual taste. How would you describe your own personal style? You’ll always find me in Bamboo Blonde, but who doesn’t love a bit of boho? We’re dying to see what new looks next season will bring. Do tell – what can we expect from your upcoming collection? We are very excited for summer as the earth tones are leaving us and new and exciting colours are coming through. We also have some amazing prints on the table. Check it out. www.bambooblonde.com

What have you learned personally being the founder and owner of a successful lifestyle brand?

people

bali icons nigel and yanie mason have seen it all ... and then some. they spoke to stephanie mee about how their love kept it all together through the tough times. portrait: ted van der hulst.

So tell us, how did you and Yanie meet? Was it love at first sight? I first met Yanie in 1983 at her sister’s shop. She was a university student of 22, also working as the manager’s secretary at the now demolished Bali Intan Cottages. I remember her on her Blue Vespa with her long hair flowing behind her. It was love at first sight, but it wasn’t until more than a year later that we met again and I asked her for a dinner date. After a few weeks of visiting her at her family home, she finally accepted. The dinner was at the newly opened Nusa Dua Beach Hotel and it cost me two weeks of my allowance. That was the start of our romance and we were married two years later. Your first business together was Yanie’s Restaurant in Kuta, after which you opened the first rafting operation in Bali. What motivated you to leave the restaurant business and go into adventure tours? When we first met I was a very poor tourist living in a cheap losmen in Legian that cost IDR1,000 a night. Yanie told me that her cousin had a derelict building in the graveyard lane that I could live in, and her brother paid the IDR5,000,000 lease for five years, as I had no money. A year later it became Yanie’s Restaurant and Bar, built with borrowed money from friends and family. We lived above the restaurant with our children until 1994. It took almost three years to repay the money for the restaurant due to a disastrous start in our relationship - I was blacklisted and thrown out of the country just two weeks after we were married. This lasted for two and a half years, even though there was never any reason given for the blacklist. Consequently we struggled through the first few years until I was able to concentrate on promoting the restaurant without having to sneak in and out of Bali and hide from Immigration. But by 1987 we were finally making enough money to invest in some land on the Ayung River in Ubud, which we later sold for enough profit to start Bali’s first white water rafting company in 1989. By 1999 we decided to close the restaurant to concentrate on our growing adventure business. In 1997 you opened the Elephant Safari Park Lodge, which was the first of its kind on Bali. How did elephants come into the mix? We started with nine rescued elephants, which grew to 27 within six years, on former deserted rice paddy land in the village of Taro, which was chosen for the surrounding forest canopy to protect the elephants from overheating. We chose to build the park on a pure chance meeting that got us involved, as at that time we were desperately trying to resurrect our business after we were illegally closed down. That saw us out of business for two and a half years and literally sent us broke, again! It seems like you two have faced some pretty huge hurdles over the years. What have been the biggest challenges? The biggest hurdle has to be the closure of our rafting company. Money, land and sanity were lost, putting unimaginable stress on Yanie and myself. However we held out believing justice would finally happen, even if we didn’t give in to corruption, and it finally did. But by the time we were able to re-open, we were broke and had to put ourselves into debt to survive. We also faced a totally changed market place now crowded with cheap rafting companies that had steadily grown over the years. The Elephant Park venture saved our arse at the time, giving us a new exclusive product, if only for a couple of years, to get back on our feet again. Not everyone could work day in and day out with their significant other and make the business and the relationship work without sacrificing one for the other. What’s your secret? The secret to our success together as a couple has always been love and trust. We both came together with mutual trust in each other and a mutual hard work philosophy that has always prevailed through all the dramas and pressures. Life together has not always been easy, especially with corruption, greed and jealousy always knocking on the door, but we have never compromised our beliefs. We had two children together and this also cemented our relationship with the new love

that they brought into our lives that continues to this day. You two are pretty outspoken when it comes to wildlife conservation and environmental issues. In your opinion, what are the biggest problems Bali faces right now? Yanie and I have always totally agreed on the subject of the environment and on the protection of Bali’s good name over the years. My opinions on Bali’s environmental challenges for the future are probably the same as most people: traffic, plastic pollution in the rivers and ocean and overpopulation, the last one being the reason for the other two. That’s why I bought a helicopter! In fact since owning a helicopter, I have finally seen the problem from the air, watching the rice paddies disappear almost overnight and the enormous smoke cloud that lies over Southern Bali each day with the constant burning of rubbish all over the island. How do you think the tourism industry in Bali could develop in a sustainable way? Sustainable tourism can only happen when the government gets serious about solving the problems that Bali faces. The government has to wake up to the fact that the tourism bubble is fragile and will burst if the warning signs are ignored, otherwise it will be too late. Bali now faces massive competition from other Asian countries that have progressed enormously in the last 10 years while Bali has sat on its hands allowing things to go unchecked and unsolved. Time is not on our side and uncontrolled development and the enormous growth of ‘copycat’ businesses helps no one, as it just allows for discounting that will eventually destroy everyone except a few smarter businesses. Discounting only drives down quality and in my adventure industry, safety. Today Bali Adventure Tours is the longest running and most respected tour company on the island, consistently winning scores of accolades and awards. Out of all your achievements, which are you most proud of? I am proud of the fact that we have managed to survive and in fact grow even after all of the dramas in the last 30 years. My finest achievement, however, personally, is to have managed to grow the business while holding onto a marriage and bringing up two wonderful sons. Now that your two sons have returned to Bali after studying in Australia and joined the family business, does this mean that you two will be less handson? Yanie and I never pushed them to join the business, as we believed it had to be their choice. Thankfully they both love the family business and love Bali. I personally will remain working in the company as long as I’m able, and Yanie I believe will do the same. However, I hope to be able to release some of my commitments to my sons as they grow in the company and learn all that there is to know in such a diverse business with over 700 employees. Any last words of wisdom for all the adventurers and entrepreneurs out there? Advice is always difficult to give without seeming to be arrogant, but my opinion is that people should always follow their dreams without trying to be too big, too fast. Success takes time, and it’s not just about money. It’s about satisfaction and quality of life. Yanie and I didn’t get to where we are today by just chasing wealth, we did it because we loved to do it and loved the challenge, never sacrificing our agenda to live a good family life together while staying in love. I will continue to be positive and run our businesses using good ethics as the basis for success until I pass the reins over to my sons, Jian and Shan, who both have the morals that Yanie and I have taught them to be good people. My philosophy in life is to ignore the negative and to concentrate on the positive and to always remember that “Persistence prevails, when all else fails”. www.baliadventuretours.com. 69

duo view

camilla and nikai chevillot are the scions of a family business that’s become a celebrated staple of Bali’s restaurant scene - Sardine. They spoke to Tony Stanton. Image: Lucky 8.

How did you both grow up, and what’s the age difference? Camilla: We are four years apart. We were both born in the Caribbean then lived in Los Angeles for a bit and grew up mostly in Canada. It was a great preparation for living in multicultural Bali. Has there ever been any rivalry between you? Camilla: No, we always got along really well. Nikaia: Not that I can think of! Is Sardine the first restaurant you ever worked in? C: No, I worked in other restaurants in Vancouver and the Caribbean. N: No. My first job 10 years ago was as a dishwasher, then I worked in a few other restaurants front of house. What’s it like having a father as your boss? C: It’s good! It definitely has it perks. It’s also important to keep things separate. If we have to deal with something work related it’s important not to take things personally. Work is work, family is family. N: Good! Before working for my father, I worked with my mom in Vancouver so I’m used to working with family. We get along, so that’s all that matters! What was the first thing you ever did at Sardine? C: I shadowed Pika to see how she runs the dining room, eventually going to the tables myself to talk to customers about the menu. N: Bartending! How are you different people? C: I think my sister is more naturally outgoing than I am. N: My sister is a lot more settled in her life. I’m still trying to figure out what I am doing with mine - not ready to settle down quite yet. What makes Sardine restaurant so special? C: It’s a family business! Our hearts are in it. It’s a unique setting with delicious food. N: It’s a family run business. The menu changes a little every day and our fish is fresh from the market. If there was one thing you could change about Bali, what would it be? C: Is it cliché to say traffic? Seriously though! Fix that and I can’t think of anything to change. N: Besides the obvious answer being traffic … I would like it if it were easier to meet people here. I can’t keep up with all the partying you have to go to to make friends! What’s the most important thing about the restaurant business? C: Happy customers.

N: Impeccable service, ambiance, food and of course, great cocktails! Where do you see yourselves in 10 years’ time? C: I really don’t know. So much changes so fast, 10 years feels like anything is possible. I’d rather focus on being happy in the present. N: If I can have everything I want in 10 years’ time I would like to have a significant other and maybe be starting a family, with a big house with an even bigger garage to fit all of my cars in. Which country do you most associate yourself with? C: Canada. N: Canada Which other restaurants in Bali do you rate? C: Sangsaka and Merah Putih are usually the go to for a dinner date night. Also love Take for Japanese. N: Take. I could eat sushi every day. I really enjoy the food at Sangsaka. If you’re not at work where will we find you? C: Usually out and about with Nikko and our daughter. Either at the beach or somewhere fun for her. N: Probably hanging out with my niece. I’m completely obsessed with her! If I have a few days’ vacation, then you’ll find me on the beach. What’s your favourite App on your phone? C: I probably use Snapchat the most. I like seeing and sharing day to day life with my closest friends and family. N: Tinder… still single guys! Just kidding! I would say Snapchat. Sharing videos of where I am at the time, my niece doing something silly or my dogs. Trying to make everyone that’s back in Canada jealous of this warm and beautiful place. Do you have nicknames for each other? C: So many! Poose, Boo-Boo, Mateo (to name but a few). I don’t even remember where they came from but they’ve stuck. All of them. N: She is Poopoose head. She’ll probably say the same thing about me . . . but she is the true, one and only Poopoose! Favourite footwear? C: Havaianas. They’re easy and comfortable. N: No shoes! Worn at the beach, near the ocean. www.sardinebali.com

nikaia, left, and camilla.

Words: John Stephens. Image: Saskia Koerner.

dreamweaver.

72 Destined to be a chef, Helios Hedar had other ideas. Today he runs Pro Tuner motorcycles, building custom dreambikes for enthusiasts around the world.

people

So what’s the story, Helios? How did you become one of the island’s best motorcycle mechanics? Well … I met my partner when I was a teenager. He opened the shop in 2001. He’s from Yogyakarta, but his father is Balinese, so he brought him here. I joined the shop in 2009, but my parents weren’t very happy about it because they had to pull some strings to get me into Culinary School in Sydney. I didn’t graduate high school because of my dyslexia, so I dropped out and went to Sydney at the age of 15 and all the students were like, what’s wrong with this kid? He’s too young! Yeah, I spent six years there, came back, helped my brother with his restaurant, REPUBLIK, then realised it wasn’t for me. But it started before that. I got on my first bike when I was seven. It was a Yamaha DT65cc motocross bike. Then when I was around eleven or so, I got into the art of bikes, like clay models and stuff. I built my first bike when I was 13. I like making things and being creative. So in 2013, I told my family that I was involved in the shop, am passionate about it, and wanted to pursue it full-time. Was there ever a moment when you felt like giving up? Every day! This isn’t a magic show. Steel isn’t the easiest thing to negotiate. People come in, sometimes with a lot of money, and say this is what I want, do what I say. Then I say get the f@#* out! I know I need to make a living. We all need money and I’m kind of wild. But my priority is building good bikes. Bikes that will last. So I build them to my standard, ride them, and if I like them, sell them. Quality not quantity. How do you come up with this stuff? What inspires your designs? The design goes through stages between my partner and me. We sit down, do a sketch together, then an AutoCAD 3D with design students from Udayana University. It depends. We sit down with the customer and say look, it might not be exactly like this … it might be better. We start with the design and see where it takes us. We build bikes that not only look nice, but run well too. We have to combine design with engineering. Where we hide our cables. Where we put our sockets. And then it has to be an everyday bike as well. You know what mean? Who are your influences? I grew up watching Orange County Choppers, so I love Paul Senior’s work. He’s a genius. His bikes are so cool. Everything is perfect on them. Then there’s Arlen Ness. I love Harley Davidsons. He is the man when it comes to Harleys. His designs are amazing. He is a huge influence. For riders, there’s Travis Pastrana, a motocross, supercross rider for Suzuki. You name it, he rides it. I wanted to ride like him when I was younger. I still do. And of course, Valentino Rossi. I mean, who doesn’t love him? He’s the fastest. If you could build a custom bike for anyone, who would it be and why? I’m working on that bike right now! For Sarjono Sutrisno, Pak Stro. He always pushes me. He’s a famous producer from Jakarta. He owns Stro World Productions, but I’ve known him forever. We’re working on a bike for an upcoming superhero movie of his. I was chilling on the beach with his friend and he called me and asked if I could build a Morgan threewheeler. I was like, why are you pushing me to the max? He said, c’mon, you know you can do it. So then I had to think about the geometry and the positioning. Where we were going to put the engine. How we are going to transmit the gear shifting. Yeah, he likes to push me like this. It’s going to have a Harley twin cam Soft Tail engine in it and it’s going to be sick. What are people in Bali going to be riding 10 years from now? Nmax. Hah! Well, custom bikes will only take you so far. Hybrid bikes are the future. A cross between street and off-road. Next week, I’m testing this prototype for … never mind. Don’t put that in there! A lot of it depends on the laws here in Bali. It’s already difficult

to get certain bikes. A new Ducati will cost you around 50 grand Australian. Dealers are bound by their quotas. It’s way cheaper to get a custom bike built. For example, my friend bought a used Ducati in Australia and he’s going to send it here to be customized. It won’t necessarily be road legal, it won’t have a bluebook, but c’mon, it’s better than spending 400 juta on a new one. Okay man, ready? Tell us about your worst crash. Hmm … it was 2012. I was riding down Legian on a Honda Vario without a helmet. I was hammered. It was raining. I was eating a kebab in my left hand, and then I hit the front brake with my right hand. Ate s#@* and wound up in the hospital with the kebab still in my mouth. It was a total nightmare. Surgery. Broken collarbone. Fractured skull. A big mistake. I still feel the pain. It hurts right now. Be careful kids. Ouch! So what are your hobbies? I just bought a boat. I’m kind into that right now. I also like to box. It keeps me fit and allows me to vent my frustrations. Painting. I like to paint. Not just bikes, canvases and stuff. And riding of course. Riding is the best. Touring and off-road. My favourite route is up north through Singaraja and Kintamani. Those are good roads. It’s beautiful. I once rode to Medan, Sumatra with my friends. It took five days. We were going slow. It was pretty rough. So many trucks. So much traffic. I want to ride through Papua one day. I want to do that ride with you, Helios. Is there anything that happened in your life that changed the way you view the world? My parent’s divorce. It’s okay. I want it to be mentioned. I was 12. It sucked, but it made me realize that life isn’t always great, and that I should appreciate what I have. I lived with my mother. My older brother, Jonathan helped me out a lot. He was there for me through the tough times. Things are better now, but yeah, it affected me then. What about for the newbies coming up in the industry? Any advice for them? Be flexible with your clients, but don’t take any s@#*. Be creative and get used to rejection. Have you ever been busted for speeding? Heaps! What kind of person buys your bikes? There are two types of people who buy my bikes. There are the ones who understand the motorcycle world, visionaries who want to do something different with their bikes to bring about some self-satisfaction. Then there are the rich collectors who just want to have one. They might not understand that much, but they’re keen and have good taste. They might not ride them, so there’s less of a risk of the bike being broken, or them being broken. How do you plan to stay ahead of the competition? I don’t. I mean I don’t see them as competition. I see them as friends and family. We support one another, the way it should be. Like Keduk Garage in Denpasar. I love his bikes. They’re very old school. He’s an inspiration. Okay, so any shout-outs? Anyone you would like to thank? I’d like to give a shoutout to Joe Hamil from Bali Bike Monkeys. He is good friend of mine. Very supportive. Thanks Helios. Let me know if you need a wingman for the Papua tour. www.facebook.com/helios.hedar

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Pepe, you’ve been free diving for some time now, can you tell us how you fell in love with the ocean in the first place and how you got into such an extreme sport? I was eight years old when I got my first glance of the underwater world in the Mediterranean Sea, Spain. After that I waited every single summer to come so I could put on my mask, snorkel and fins and dive into those clear waters. As an ocean lover I think I can consider the Mediterranean as my first love. Then of course there was the movie The Big Blue, which had an enormous influence on me. I started diving around 10 years ago, and then freediving, then years of training and competitions so that my life became fully focussed on the sport. So how long can you hold your breath? Six mins, but I am a bit rusty. When I am shooting I only hold my breath for one to two minutes, as it involves many dives, and I can be doing it for hours. When did you decide to introduce your passion for film making into the equation, and what practical restrictions are there to filming underwater? As a friend told me the other day, I am actually an artist that can freedive. Before freediving I was a graphic designer and I have been working with photography since getting my first manual Nikon FM10 when I was young. Then it was Lomos, first digitals and now taking a big DSLR into the ocean. Underwater photography and filmmaking in itself are complicated as the low light environment and the technical aspects (artificial lighting, housings, gear) are not easy to master. Adding freediving into the equation is challenging and radical. And that’s what I like! I could speak for hours on the advantages of filmmaking while freediving, but the main reason for me is freedom of movement. I dive into a 3D environment where I can freely move up, down and in any imagined position to achieve my shots. I can simulate with my body different camera movements, dollies, sliders, steady cam, continuous takes. And as I don’t breath from a compressed air tank, I have no decompression problems, so I can go deep and come back up as many times as I want. The fact that my models and I recover on the surface allows me to talk and direct my scenes. What’s the deepest you have ever gone? Can you talk us through the thought process as you go for a dive? My deepest freedive so far is 80m. I am a former national champion in my sport, and in the past I participated in national and international events. The preparation for such high level performance is demanding, like any other competitive sport at that level. You basically need to plan a slow progression into your target depth, and safety is obvioulsy of paramount importance. I guess the sport is all about mind control, the power of the mind over the body? What do you do on land to prepare yourself?

Thinking alone takes around 30% of the body’s energy and the freediving goal is to save the maximum amount of energy and oxygen when performing. So you are right, mind control is the most important part. I personally have a, let’s say, meditative state of mind when I am in the ocean before a deep dive or a specific demanding shooting session, and this is designed to allow me to calm down and slow my system to the minimum . . . heart rate, muscular activity . . . but most of my preparation is related to breathing patterns and not thinking much, so I can stay focussed on one activity. What do you think about when you’re down deep? As you said, the key to this game is to not think too much. To bring your body to a total focus into only one activity and stop the brain connecting hundreds of ideas in a single second. I don’t think much, I feel much. I get into the sensations of the pressure around my body, the temperature of the water, the darkness of the deep ocean, and I let myself go with no resistance. Why do you do it? Because I love it. I actually miss my deep training days as those deep dives made me feel very happy, and as a true explorer of a world unknown to humans. When I am in the water, my human problems dissolve into insignificant topics, and I just observe the wildness around me in the ocean. Looking at some of your images … there’s a kind of super hero look to some of the figures as they free dive … is this a sport for superheroes? Freediving is absolutely for everybody, no matter what body shape or fitness level you have. I am also a freediving instructor and I have taught hundreds of people how to dive on a single breath. No superhero skills necessary. What about the immense dangers? Do you go down deep enough to have to worry about the bends? Safety, as I said before, is the most important part of freediving. And rule number one is to never freedive alone. When my friends, world champion record holders, train hard, there’s always a big safety team. The ratio of accidents in this sport is really low as long as we follow all procedures. There’s no decompression issues with freediving as we don’t breath, and therefore don’t accumulate nitrogen in our systems. What we have to deal with is narcosis. What’s the strangest thing you have ever seen when you’re underwater? Unfortunately all the strangest things I always see underwater are caused by humans. It is very sad what we are doing to the oceans: plastic pollution,

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overfishing, shark finning … as ambassador of filmmaking at Asian Diving Expo, I am turning my work and talks towards conservation and awareness about the dangers that the oceans are facing and the fragility of the underwater ecosystems. Time to think globally about this issue and take precise actions to avoid further damage. How does it work? Are you weighted down, then what, you take off the weights so you can go up? Sorry, we’re just curious landlubbers … We use a line as a reference to follow to the target depth. Let’s say I am planning to dive to 80 metres. I will follow that line by only swimming with my freediving gear down . . . and then swim back up after reaching the bottom of the line marked with a bottom plate. No help from weights or other devices, just swim down and up. How many people worldwide are into this? Freediving is one of the fastest growing sports in the world, and gaining popularity every year. Especially here in Asia, we are living in amazing times where many people are joining courses, expeditions, competitions, photo/video sessions or just fun dives. I don’t have the numbers but is getting quite popular out there. Where can we get into free diving in Bali? Bali is a great island for freediving with amazing spots and warm calm waters to learn and train. In the Island we have many freediving schools with the highest standards in the diving industry. Amed/Tulamben are very popular destinations and only in that area we have four freediving facilities with good friends around to teach people, explore the Liberty wreck or the reefs and many more activities. Gili island in Lombok is growing very fast and you can also find the busiest freediving schools in the world there. One of my favourite spots for freediving is Nusa Penida, where you can swim with beautiful Mantas almost every day and enjoy crystal clear waters. 80

How about working with models underwater, presumably it’s not for every one… Underwarter modeling is challenging for sure. I work with professional fashion models that were also competitive freedivers. As a fashion photographer I work daily with models and fashion teams and I am collaborating lately with some of my models to help them stay longer and calmer in the water. I know it is not an easy job: opening the eyes, moving with heavy dresses, holding the breath . . . but they are learning fast to be calmer while posing for me. How do you keep your photography fresh and appealing? After all there’s a danger that the images in your world can start to reflect themselves … Creativity is the most important part of it. Always looking for new angles, light scenarios, wild animal encounters, new conceptual works. I personally find an endless source of inspiration around me and challenge myself to capture original emotive moments that will allow the people to connect with my work and the topics of my pictures. If you weren’t free diving, do you think you would be so passionate about another sport? I’m kind of obsessed in exploring the oceans so at the moment I still have a long lasting stable relationship with freediving! But I always been into different sports, martial arts, rock climbing, snowboarding. But for now it’s all about the water. T.S. Pepe, thanks so much for your time. Stay safe down there. www.pepearcos.com Instagram: pepearcos Facebook: pepe.arcos

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yak fashion Photography: Lukas Vrtilek / luvr.cz Styling: Mkhn

Hair: Steve Gibbs, Essensuals Hairdressing Bali Model: Nora Dagva

Make Up: Rosario Belmonte, Balistarz

Dress LES BICHES at Bitchen Shop

Shirt and Heels MIAN LIAO at Souq Store

Sunglasses PARED at Kiosk

yak fashion Dress SHAKUHACHI

Blouse JACLYN CHOUCHANA at Souq Store

Heels MIAN LIAO

Heels Stylistâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Own

Coat HERMES

Dress KIOSK

yak fashion Dress 10 PIECES Jacket CHANEL

Earrings VINTAGE at Bitchen Shop Necklace ALIX YANG

Dress SHAKUHACHI

Sweater GERARD DAREL

Rings ALIX YANG

yak fashion White Dress KID CASHMERE

Grey Slip ALEXANDER AND FOX at Souq Store.

Trench NUE LINGERIE Rings ALIX YANG

Heels Stylistâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Own

Dress LILYA

Shirt and Heels MIAN LIAO at Souq Store

Sunglasses THE LOOKING FORWARD

yak fashion Dress 10 PIECES Jacket CHANEL

Heels MIAN LIAO at Souq Store Earrings and Rings ALIX YANG

White Shirt Dress JACLYN CHOUCHANA

at Souq Store.

Skirt LES BICHES

Bralette NUE LINGERIE

Necklace ALIX YANG

omnibus

...Or in other words kids: what goes around comes around. by andrew E. Hall The largest music company on the planet, Sony, is pressing vinyl again. “Eh?” It’s making records.. What?” Am I so aged that I can now only communicate with an ever-dwindling (by way of popping one’s clogs) group of contemporaries? Have I lumbered myself with a Sisyphean task? I’m unsure if Britney Spears ever made a record – I feel her dubious vocals might have been piped through digitised frequencies straight onto compact disc. Not that some you would even remember them! The point I’m attempting to make, I think – and feel very free to correct me if I’m wrong – is that the relentless march of progress often consigns things that were once considered progressive, to the historical scrapheap. Frequently accompanied by unhealthy doses of sneering and smugness. But while things like vinyl records (do I really need to explain what they are?) and the absolutely gorgeous array of equipment upon which they were played languished in unlit corners of unused rooms, they were patiently plotting resurrection. Some would accuse me of recklessly anthropomorphising things made of plastic, metal, precious gems, wood and glass. Go ahead. Back in the day, it required substantial investment, and a lot of love and care, to listen to, and to really hear, sounds that had profound consequence for the global consciousness. An audiophile might argue that these days we are left only with the ability to listen. In my youth, playing music on records was a communal experience. An all-in family event for which specific time was made and in which a semi-reverential process was observed. Records in and of themselves were things that demanded respect. We called them “album” because that’s exactly what they were; their packaging was titillating and tactile. Buying a new one was considered carefully because in those days we understood very well the nature of opportunity cost, and we had no access to lines of credit that enslave us today. But the world speeded up – to more than 33 revolutions per minute, more even than 45 and 78. The rituals that brought disparate groups together were sacrificed on the altar of individualism and consumerism. Oh so cleverly

disguised as a twisted egalitarianism. Shared experience turned selfish indulgence initiated, ironically, by the Sony Corporation before it was outstripped by Apple. While dust jackets performed with aplomb and fabulous artwork faded, turntables stopped turning, amplifier valves stayed cold and their inert gases within remained inert – perhaps in the darkness knowing they would never be warm again – a tiny spark was kept kindled by kindred spirits. Those for whom portent and popularity and new-toy prestige are all suborned by a form of love difficult to describe. As it happens, though: Everything old is new again. Take me, for example; I reinvent myself every day – with varying degrees of success, it must be said. And in the immortal words of Leonard Cohen, “I ache in the places I used to play”. I first heard those words on a record. It would be lovely to imagine that Sony has decided to invest in making records because someone in that corporation was overwhelmed by an inspirational attack of fond nostalgia. Not so much. Demand and supply, profit and loss, is the only calculus that matters to some. Bean counters have recognised that a growing number of people are pushing back against being railroaded into cramming their entire recreational experience into a device that can be carried in a pocket – that, once plugged into, shuts out the rest of the known universe, not to mention all the as yet unknown ones. Some have cottoned onto the artifice of the digital box. Record-lovers think outside the square. Recent data have revealed the same uptick for lovers of the printed word, whether in book form or a hard-copy newspaper. Or, in your case, a magazine . . . come closer, have a smell, beautiful isn’t it? In an office far from here priceless boxed-set packages that weigh quite a lot contain every book that has ever been written in English. Among those pages that feel so good to the touch I discovered that I’m a Tellurian. So are you . . . hail fellow, well met. When the world spun at 33, 45 and 78rpm music was made by tellurian musicians; many of whom actually played their own instruments. They were often not wealthy.

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They were often stoned (in a good way). Some became celebrities through grafting hard in a grinding regime of public performance. Fame had little to do with the infamy that plagues the digital divide. Songwriters helped make sense of the nonsensical. A startling few were etched into grooves on vinyl, and became “groovy”, timeless. The “record industry” welcomed them and exploited them ruthlessly in a simulacrum of sycophancy and subservience. Along for the ride were artists – graphic and otherwise – and writers, electronic engineers and pioneers . . . and people who made cups of coffee and tea: analogue drifters who laid the foundations upon which the digital daydream is built. A finished album was a comprehensive statement that murmured, “state of the art” in all senses and meanings. In the late ‘70s I carried two of them around while backpacking through Europe. They were J.J. Cale’s Naturally, and an album by former New York Dolls front man David Johansen that featured a song titled Funky but Chic. I was a traveller in four-four time, sometimes threefour if I was feeling particularly romantic. Six-eight is troublesome and should be avoided unless you really know what you are doing. People from far-flung places were generous in sharing their high fidelity equipment with me. Language barriers were transcended by musical universality. There was a whole lot of love in the air. Things took a curious turn during the 1990s. En mass we went for quantity over quality. We became connected as we never had been before, and as disconnected as we’ve ever been. People stayed away in droves from venues large and small that hosted live performance. Record collections became clunky and clichéd and the conversation stopped. What had been inclusive on a macro scale became exclusive and microcosmic. We shrank before our very eyes. Of course music makers didn’t stop making music. They became angrier though, more flippant – their relevance reiterated only by adulation. The further we delved into a new millennium the crazier things got, and someone carelessly misplaced the reset button. But I think it has been found again. Two young Australian musicians, Courtney Barnett and Tash Sultana, have helped restore hope in me. In Courtney’s lyrics are brilliantly wrought images of the mundane, as music reviewer Mike Powell writes on Pitchfork.com: “Barnett’s music builds on the wordy irreverence of mid-1960s Bob Dylan and a blend of psychedelia, folk and country. Avant Gardener tells the story of a girl dragging her underemployed arse out of bed late on a

Monday morning to try her hand at gardening . . . at which point she suffers a panic attack. “The scene unfolds like a dream: ‘Halfway down High Street, Andy looks ambivalent / He’s probably wondering what I’m doing getting in an ambulance’, Barnett sings. ‘The paramedic thinks I’m clever ‘cause I play guitar / I think she’s clever ‘cause she stops people dying’. “They’re both right. Later, the song’s poor narrator struggles to get a good pull on her asthma inhaler. “I was never good at smoking bongs, she confesses, I’m not that good at breathing in.” A poignant rendering of the pickled malaise we can get ourselves into if we opt out of the conversation. The metaphorical garden becomes a frightening refuge from suburban conformity. We need to get out more. We need to learn to breathe again. I saw Tash Sultana at a music festival recently. She is known for her fiery vocals and command of multiple instruments and looping pedals. She first found the spotlight via the Internet with live videos of her onewoman-band performances – often performed in her bedroom. She got her first guitar as a preschooler and went on to learn brass, woodwind, and percussion instruments, among others. She was busking on the streets of Melbourne by her mid-teens. In the spring of 2016, when she was 20, a live recording of her song Jungle went viral on Facebook, accumulating more than a million plays in less than a week. See? I’m not a curmudgeon after all! I’ve watched Tash on You Tube and I think that both she and You Tube are absolutely fantastic. But she’s better live. Courtney and Tash play at festivals all over the world. They are motivational. They start conversations. They teach us about connection amid the day-to-day drudgery. In saying this I’m reminded of some words that Ruth Ostrow wrote in a recent newspaper column: “What has happened to the art of communication and conversation in these days of online chatter and social media and texted sound bites? It’s a time when points of view are confined to a few characters or boxes, and statements are made rather than questions posed and pondered, when narcissists impose selfies and selfobsessed tweets to create envy rather than connection, and words are geared to a pathologically short attention span.” To Ruth I would reply: listen the music of Tash Sultana and Courtney Barnett. Buy their records, take them home and play them with your family and your friends on equipment that has lain dormant for way too long.

at least the song remains the same.

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Four custom builds and an open road ... what more could you ask for? Words:Tom Hawkins & Ano McInerheney Photos: Harry Marks

When you’re planning a trip the most important thing on the list is a few like-minded friends to accompany you on your journey, people who are there for the ride and don’t really care about the destination. So that’s what we did, a four man crew of mates; Forrest Minchinton, Lewie Dunn, Cal Lathrope & Thomas Edwards were our riders, we packaged them up with a couple of photographers and sent them off with nowhere in particular as a destination. Being based in tropical Bali, we had become very accustomed to the coastal terrain offerings of the south. Lowtide beaches are our playgrounds and we know the trails through the terraced rice fields like the back of our hands. So, when the opportunity for this trip arose to test out a batch of new custom motorcycles from the Deus Temple Workshop, we decided to switch things up and point our compasses inland towards the island’s mountainous centre. Before we get into the nitty gritty of the actual journey, let’s pause a moment and take a bit of a peek at the machines that took us there. There were three custom builds done by the Deus Bengkel Boys in the workshop down the back of the Temple backyard and then the fourth was a home build by our good friend, Thomas, who joined us for the adventure. The three built under the Deus roof took quite different design routes when it came to aesthetics. Although all the bikes began life as factory standard Kawasaki KLX250s, this being the closest bike to a dual sport available to us here in Indonesia, each one stands on its own two tires as a custom motorcycle ready for touring the roads and trails we had in store for them. We need to give a massive thanks to a couple of legends over at FMF. All the bikes were

sporting Powercore 4 headers and exhaust that helped our lads to squeeze an often much-needed extra chunk of power out of the engines whilst sounding pretty damn good, all at the same time. But back to the trip. Or forward, chronologically speaking. We didn’t really have much of a plan other than to head to higher grounds. We all agreed we should be searching for some cooler climates, something a little more agreeable than the thick humid air hanging around the coastline … So that’s exactly what we did. We made a left turn out of the Deus Temple of Enthusiasm in Canggu and just kept heading inland. A couple of hours put us where the houses grow further apart and the road rises. The air becomes truly clear of the sea salt and the urban congestion, bird song replaces horns, all the while rising steadily through switchback after switchback, headed to a lake we heard offered a chunk of reasonably flat dirt we hoped would be enough to pitch our tents on for the night. We reached the point where the road began its descent back down again. Dropping over the other side was like walking through a door or portal, gone was any sign of the tropic island we were on, tall pines hugging the hillside towered high above us, leading the way towards the lake. Moss covered the stones by the side of the road and everything was kind of wet to the touch. It grew denser before finally opening up at the patch of dirt we would call home for the night. We were all very animated, first stretching our legs then unloading our bikes to set up camp. Setting up took no time at all as we were all itching to jump back on the unladen, lighter bikes and set to exploring the surrounding forest. We spent the rest of the afternoon dodging

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stumps, picking lines and kicking up fallen leaves and before we knew it the sun was setting and with it the temperature. We headed back to the camp to get the fire going and mull over the day’s events with beers in hand. After a beautiful, yet very cold, night under the stars and not wanting to get stuck in one place, we rose with the sun, pausing only to fuel ourselves with coffee before packing up shop and pointing our bikes towards the peak across the valley. Thomas had been there before and knew of place for us to rest our heads that night, so with him in the lead we set off single file along the tight foot tracks for a few hours until it was time for a break. As luck would have it we happened upon a local roadside eatery, not hard to do as they are everywhere, and as we stuffed anonymous snacks into our mouths, we learned from the owner of a nearby waterfall. With nothing pressing on our schedule other than making it across the valley before sundown, we decided that a dip in the frigid mountain waters would be a good way to wash off the adventure musk of the past couple of days. We left the bikes with the snack selling old man and hoped that his vague hand gestures would be enough to guide us down the hillside. After a couple of unwanted river crossings and a few pairs of wet boots later, we found the falls and spent the next few hours relaxing whilst discussing and admiring the sheer amount of raw energy cascading into the pools before us. When we ascended we had mud on our feet and smiles on our faces. We thanked the old shop keeper, bought a bag full of his snacks, climbed upon our steeds and rode until we reached the spot to be our shelter for the night, arriving just as the sun was getting ready to set. Next morning we rose with the light creeping up behind the volcanos on the horizon and went through the familiar process of packing our clothes and hitting the road. This time we decided to head to even higher altitudes and with nothing but exhaust notes burbling behind us we ascended until we hit the ridge-line of a large series of cliffs at the edge of a volcanic region. It was just before midday and we weren’t going to head back to the coast anytime yet. Instead we consulted our map to see if there were any off-road trails we could occupy ourselves with before finding once again looking for that flat spot, somewhere to hole up for the night. We wanted to get off the beaten track and ended up doing just that. We could see that there was a trail linking a couple of paved roads that looked promising. So, we threw

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caution to the wind and headed in that direction. It was soon evident that the mellow single track we had started on was leading us down a path we couldn’t really turn back on. We followed the creek down the valley until we could go no further. The terrain we’d wandered into was in fact a little too much for the 250s. Just after getting the bikes all free and wondering what the hell we were to do a local farmer appeared out of nowhere and showed us a route back to the main road where we headed into a little town nearby to find some food, a warm shower and shelter for the night. The next day, we were in the saddle long before the sun rose, we had a big day of riding ahead of us with little or nothing known about the road conditions ahead. For a while our headlights led us through the dense forest, blackness was absolute and all around, each of us following the trail set out by the rider in front. When the sun finally rose so did a huge cloud of mist that rode with us for the rest of the morning. Cold and wet and making our way through the trails a lot more than a little difficult. Our compass was set for the highlands of Mount Batur, a place where we knew a moto playground awaited us. Here we found a park of dusty trails where we could really test the handling of our moto’s. Granules of a volcano spat out and laid down to make a bed that is quite perfect to ride on. The mist lifted with the heat of the day as did our moods and we once again adopted a devil may care attitude leaving dust trails in our mates faces as we played a grand old game of tag across a mountain side. Smiles were abundant. I guess that’s what it’s all about. All in all, our goals and expectations of going inland and disappearing on bikes were beat, and bested. For some this had been personal, about doing things for a first time, or for betterment, while for others it was more about the experience of the place and the adventure. With legs that where numb, we followed the setting sun and headed homeward, back to the Temple. Thoughts went inward as we descended and the houses once again grew closer together and the warmth crept back into our bones before we experienced the beginning of a sweat under our riding clothes. The thought occurred, at least to us, a week on a bike in the mountains should be on everyone’s to do list.

vroom. etc.

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passions Whether you’re a local, newcomer or vacationer, you want to look good, and we want you to look good too. Here’s our top picks for man trims. By John Stephens and Alison Bone.

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SEVEN Barber The slicked-back-scissor-slinging-studs of SEVEN are a cut above the rest with seven shops dispersed throughout southern Bali. Established in 2013, they offer close shaves with hot towels, cold beers, homeboy-style service and all of the gooey fixings one might need to tame the mane. With a small army of loyal employees singing along to their iconic slogan, “Barber for Life”, it’s no wonder they’ve achieved so much. So, for those who like it greasy or matte, pay them a visit, they accept walk-ins and reservations. And if you’re not quite sure, fear not, their walls are covered with photos of handsome heroes from bygone days to inspire you. sevenbarber.com UNION Barber by SEVEN – Just far enough off of Legian to avoid getting singed are the super dapper styles of Union Barber, Bali. These gentlemen possess the skills and blades to craft any mouldy pile of hay into James Dean. This is the kind of place Ponyboy and the rest of Outsider crew would go to get ‘done up’. Their classic fifties-style hot seats and tiled floors fuse with hunter green brick walls and industrial lighting to create a nostalgic men’s grooming space that even Elvis would be proud of. And, in addition to close shaves, cold beers and friendly service, they offer smart men’s shoes and boots – blue suede ones coming soon! www.facebook.com/unionbarberbali/ TOKIO Barber by SEVEN – If you ever find yourself in the middle of Denpasar thinking, “I really need a haircut”, check out TOKIO barber. This modern twist on old school barbershops has a lighter atmosphere, think gin not whiskey, and can turn your vacation scrubby into work ready in a matter of minutes. The shop’s bare cement walls and industrial décor resembles an automotive shop. No wonder there are usually a few men there waiting to get tuned up. But don’t let this detour you. Their attention to detail and all-inclusive customer service is the reason for their popularity. And yes, they also serve ice-cold beers. www.facebook.com/pages/Tokio-Barber/1854203748159994 THE ROOTS BARBER SHOP This slick outfit offers a gentleman’s grooming service and even makes its own water-based pomade for the ultimate slickback. Located on the Pantai Berawa road it’s a handy pit stop for a beard or moustache trim on your way to hipster central Canggu. You could also take it all off with a straight razor shave followed by a hot towel facial and a head and shoulder massage. The motto

is ‘old school but never old fashioned’ and the exposed brick walls, distressed mirrors and retro outfitting create just the right air of nostalgia, while modern industrial lighting brings it firmly up to date. Black and white prints on the wall include a fabulous shot of the greatest himself, Mohammad Ali, getting a trim. You will also find branches in Jakarta, Surabaya and Batam. therootsbarbershop.com DORSEY’S BARBER SHOP @ DEUS. Atmospheric antique Indonesian wooden house meets vintage rock n roll barber shop right in the heart of Deus. Throw in some retro tunes and a former pro surfer who also happens to be a great hair stylist, and you probably have the hippest barber shop in Bali – but what else would you expect from Canggu’s kings of cool? Drop by for a hot towel shave, hair cut, tattoo or a beard trim, (remember beards are good, but just like a board they need to be shaped.) Combine a hair cut with a Hot towel Str8 Razor shave and get an ice cool beer or shot of Jack Daniel’s on the house. www.facebook.com/dorseysbarbershopatdeus/ The Barber of Bali Bali’s original barber shop comes with the works including a man spa, so you can have a cut and shave, then get your nails trimmed, have a gentleman’s facial and chill out with some hot stone reflexology. Handy head shots plaster the wall in case you need inspiration for a new look, while cold Bintangs and shots of Bourbon will help pass the time. You can also stock up on all the trimmings, from classic wooden beard combs, to hair tonics, pomades, cool t shirts (including kids sizes) and cigars. The Groom’s service will get you all spruced up for your big day, while a pop up barber shop at your villa will take care of your groomsmen too. www.balibarber.com The Headmost Service is simple, no mess no fuss, and a Gentleman’s cut with wash and beard trim will only set you back RP 100,000. The cosy Berawa branch has a classic homey vibe reminiscent of small town American barber shops of the 5o’s, but rather than a wizened old timer brandishing a blade and shaving brush, the barbers here are hip young Indonesian dudes. The vintage burgundy sofa and jars of sweets are a great touch. The Sunset Road branch is bigger and has all manner of hair goodies, from pomades to gels, wax and hair muds because as the writing on the wall says, ‘good looks bring good luck’. www.facebook.com/theheadmostteukuumar

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Two hundred years ago there were an estimated 50,000 elephants in Laos. Now there are just perhaps 700. albert lefflangâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s photographs document teh last vestiges of a magnificent species. text: melody kemp.

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travel

Dateline Vientiane: Only in Bali can one roll off a massage table smelling of frangipani, onto the back of an elephant. Well almost. I was still living in Indonesia when in 1998 the Elephant Safari Camp was established in Taro. The camp, like a lot of Bali, has become burnished with tourist luxury; in this case removing all vestiges of the wilderness still home to the last of the clever but diminishing global elephant herds. At the time I thought smugly ‘Typical … another Bali fantasy’. Elephants are not native to Bali and had to be shipped in from Sumatra. But as wealth not poverty decimate global herds, I now realise that every living jumbo is a gift to the world. Imagine elephants walking down the Champs Elysee in chignon and shades, because they did roam all over Europe until exterminated by humans 40,000 years ago. The workers renovating Trafalgar Square found a stash of elephant and tiger bones when they got Nelson out of the way. Laos, where Albert and I live, used to have abundant wild elephants. In fact the nation’s founder, a wily Prince called Fa Ngum, the proud owner of 33 teeth which according to auguries made him a threat to his royal relatives, conquered and cohered many disparate regions into what he called Lan Xang, the Land of a Million Elephants. The elephant was the armoured personnel carrier of its time, so he hoped the name would imbue the new nation with elephantine courage and tenacity. Modern Laos still retains most of the territory he hunted and gathered. Flickering black and white film taken by the French colonists in the 19th and early 20th centuries captured Lao’s rivers filled with shiny broad pachyderm bums as they revelled in the waters. They wrote of slow majestic travels on the back of elephants through otherwise impenetrable jungle. Fast forward to 2017 and the count is down to maybe 350 in the wild and maybe 400 domesticated elephants. Two hundred is considered to be the number below which they begin to lose a genetic future.

Now the rivers are dammed, the forest logged and the habitat fragmented by ‘poverty alleviation’ projects like roads and bridges allowing access to poachers and illegal loggers. Now it’s trucks, not howdahs, that carry the prizes. So other than the animal itself, what will be lost? Are we pining after a bit of megafauna that, like Kim Kardashian, is famous for being um, megafauna? George Monbiot wrote that elephants shaped the European environment, particularly the structure and design of trees. Understorey trees such as holly, box and yew have much tougher roots and branches than canopy trees, despite carrying less weight. In other words, trees bear strong signs of adaptation to elephants. Elephants dig water holes and locate essential mineral licks to be used by other animals, they forge paths for smaller less hardy animals in search of food. Their sensitivity to aggression and geospatial sense alerts others to trouble makers and poachers in the vicinity. Their huge appetite and lousy digestive system produce vast amounts of waste that is packed full of seeds pre-packaged in compost. They would be the delight of any DIY garden center. Despite that, they can neither outrun telescopic sights nor demur from the attention of circus owners across the border in China who know they will make a million - and this is literally true: Chinese elephant parks can make a million a day from elephants performing inane tricks and silly walks. In Lao people believe that humans and elephants have thirty two kwan, or life spirits. Each of those is important for health and spiritual well-being. Changes in one’s life, like travelling, or marriage, might tempt a kwan to dawdle too long in the duty free shop and abandon you, leading to unsightly spiritual (phi) lopsidedness. So it’s important to be reunited with one’s kwan at a ceremony called a baci, which literally means spirit calling. This preBuddhist ceremony is still very much part of Lao life. It’s fun, irreverent, and democratic. Everyone participates in offering well wishes to each other using white threads tied around the wrist after the mophawn finishes his chants.

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travel In 2015 the Elephant Conservation Center held an epic Elephant Caravan to coincide with the 20 year anniversary of Luang Prabangâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s classification as a World Heritage city.

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mahouts, music and machin guns.

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travel The elephant baci follows the same format, albeit larger in scale. While humans warrant an ex monk to lead the proceedings, elephant bacis demand senior monks to preside over their nodding heads. The ceremony includes the mahouts and either the threads are given to the mahout to tie around his charge (and while women hold significant status in Lao culture, mahouts are still 99% male) or the monks themselves tie the thread around the tusk or ears. This is to ensure that all the kwan are tucked up nice and snug in the jumbos soul and not tempted to wander off into Thailand. This spiritual parallel, even to the point of having the same number of kwan, indicates the historical and symbolic importance of elephants in Lao culture, adding even greater poignancy to their dropping numbers.

Despite its pretensions to communism there are no pension

When the Lao royal families, with all their pomp and ritual, including being borne aloft in floral decorated howdahs or walking behind the palace jumbos, taking care not to step in the prodigious poo, were replaced by the dour, sanctimonious Pathet Lao, the jumbos began to fade to grey. They became part of the proletariat, logging forests and fading from sight.

paid expensively to train these amazing creatures to turn

the Laos magnificent forests were converted to cash by

well-connected shysters, the elephants and their keepers are out of work having done their job too well. A life

of poverty has pushed the sale of the nation’s treasures to cross border entrepreneurs where, despite their vast intelligence complex language and social systems, they

are reduced to wearing silly glasses and performing tugs of war. The gaiety of the Caravan had its shadows; the

hard gray questions about the future of the elephant in

Laos, questions that have since gathered like plankton as China has been granted vast land, and is in the process

of acquiring more of Lao’s elephants, their mahouts being cheap tricks.

Two hundred years ago there were an estimated 50,000

elephants in Laos. Now there are just perhaps 700. Those

still used in logging are over-worked and often ill treated and their mahouts – once highly respected for their skills

In 2015 the Elephant Conservation Center (ECC) held the epic Elephant Caravan to coincide with the 20 year anniversary of the old Royal capital Luang Prabang’s classification as a World Heritage city.

and wisdom – have been reduced to a life of poverty or

The ECC based in adjacent Sayaboury province, the elephant culture capital of Laos, ran the parallel event in order to draw attention to the fact that elephants were not only older than Luang Prabang but also part of the Lao’s and the world’s heritage. The Caravan’s 600-km trek brought together artists, educators, scientists with elephants and their keepers. Albert’s photographs captured the mood of the event, sometimes sombre, sometimes joyful as school children rushed to collect books handed out by elephants, and villagers laughed at clowns and the theatricals of the troupe entertainers.

for these great beasts as they look into a very uncertain

Albert catches the meditation on the future of the animal and mahout culture that has cared for them; of traditions that have a lineage as old as the ethnic Tai Lue people themselves, whose books on elephant healing are still valid, and upon which the Luang Prabang Botanic Gardens (Phad Tad Ke) established their elephant pharmacy garden.

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or welfare schemes for Lao’s mahouts. Forty years after

pimping their jumbos. Progress and wealth has separated humans from the environment they were once part of.

Albert’s photos capture the ambivalence of those who care future. The two exceptions are MandaLao where one can

walk with elephants - it now being accepted that elephant riding unless one is a skinny mahout is a no no - and the Elephant Conservation Center in Sayaboury which welcomes

those who may want to forgo a massage, fashion and luxury for mud, canvas boots and learning.

For more information on the Caravan see: theelephantcaravan.org/the-asian-elephant-a-species-underthreat The Elephant Conservation Center: elephantconservationcenter.com/elephant-sponsoring/buabanh-abscess For MandaLao: mandalaotours.com

mahouts â&#x20AC;&#x201C; once highly respected for their skills and wisdom â&#x20AC;&#x201C; have been reduced to a life of poverty.

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oral pleasures G etting

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, M otel M exicola serio u s at

serio u sly

Serious, elegant and authentic and Motel Mexicola aren’t words that often appear in the same sentence, but don’t be fooled. The multicoloured, popular party venue opened with an eye to serving authentic Mexican food and they have swerved but never strayed from this mission. Many who claim to love Mexican food have possibly never eaten the real thing. Nachos, crispy tacos and the like are not a staple of Mexican food, they never have been. Instead the food of Mexcio is diverse, earthy and defined by ingredients that are very local. Taking over the kitchens of Mexicola was an eye opener for Executive chef, Steven Skelley, who had a far more traditional chef background. To get up to speed, he has bought endless cookbooks and travelled extensively through Mexico, eating and yes, drinking. Entering Motel Mexicola is an experience in itself. It’s almost like a movie set; lights, colour, music and a lively crowd are part of the mix no matter what time you arrive. The frenzy intensifies as the sun goes down and the neon lights come up but it’s pretty busy all the time, serving well over 1,000 people every day. One thing that many overlook though is the serious side of the flashy Motel, the food. The menu really doesn’t pull punches or linger for long on those who crave the tex-mex they grew up with. Straddling this divide is a constant challenge for the kitchen team but their dedication to authenticity has to be admired. They are not talking down to the crowd. The new menu at Mexciola definitely has its strengths, and favourites. Looking around at the early dinner sitting there are plenty of quesadillas going round. Kids are prancing about on the stage/dance floor and parents are lingering over their margaritas with one eye on their offspring. However it’s early, and the more serious crowd are already lining up outside to kick things off for the adults. The menu is divided into sections at Motel Mexicola and the waiters are an integral part of the order, explaining the dishes, breaking down the ingredients, reading the diners to see how far they will go. It’s a very well oiled machine. “We are very much into a sink or swim concept with our menus, which change constantly. We tend to bring out all the new dishes on party nights, where we might have 3,000 people in the venue. The kitchen is under enormous stress on those nights, not to mention the bar, but it’s a great way to kick off a new menu,” explains Skelley. There’s really no holding back here, especially with the chef at your table to talk you through the menu. We start with something that is seemingly simple but also tells a great story of Mexican food. It’s a tostada, a small open taco topped with black beans, blackened chili and topped with a fried egg and fresh salsa. Being a sucker for anything with runny egg, I am in love with this small parcel of explosive flavour. It is topped with crispy chicken skin, which adds flavour as well as texture. I am warned that it will explode but I manage without making too much of a mess. This is a new one from the menu of tostadas that includes seafood and slow cooked pork, items that appear in different forms over and over on this menu. The man on the floor, and a real live Mexican, Alvaro appears and looks thoroughly disappointed at my choice of beer. Naturally he is suggesting cocktails, and there are quite a few new ones on the menu he encourages me to try. We opt for a classic margarita, but this isn’t satisfying

the gregarious host. He then shows up with shots of tequila and shots of a Bloody Mary mix that we are told to drink one after the other. It works. Motel Mexicola is definitely better with tequila. Next we try a dish that seems a hybrid of Asia and Mexico, but I am assured that it is based on a thoroughly authentic Mexican dish that Steven has combined with a lightly seared tuna. The thin slices of justseared tuna are the perfect play with a fresh, chili scented salad, resulting in a dish that is fresh and light. The mains menu is small, with only five dishes, but it packs above its weight. Birria De Borrego is a dish that hails from the state of Jalisco in Mexico and is a celebration dish as well as a cure-all comfort dish. In this case it features a slow cooked lamb shank, falling off the bone and floated in a dark and delicious soup base made with a heady mix of spices that vary from cardamom, cinnamon, clove and garlic. The meat falls off the bone and a spoon is offered for the broth. It is served with a side of spiced green tomato purée, fresh hot tortilla and Mexican rice. You could easily feed a family with this one. The leftovers were packed to take home for lunch the following day. This is a stand out dish. Another main that was recommended is a prawn dish, Camarón de coco. Also served with tortilla for wrapping, this is a lighter dish featuring coconut-crusted prawns that are deep fried and served with a mango salsa, tomato salsa and a red cabbage salad. Filling but very fresh and the prawns are a treat. According to Skelley, the biggest challenge for them is the chili. They’ve tried going local but it simply wasn’t the same. The variety and depth of flavour of the different types of chili used in Mexican dishes can’t be replaced if you want to produce really authentic dishes. So they beg, borrow and procure through whatever means to get the real thing. Many of the Mexican chili are very subtle, it is more about flavour than heat. It’s easy to see why this motel gets fully booked, it’s infectious, especially after a few of those margaritas. People are having fun. Everyone’s eating, drinking, it’s like one big party. Lots of people have come in groups, the bar is full by 8pm and upstairs, the mezcal bar is filling up as well. And this is Monday folks. There is no way that Alvaro is letting us leave without dessert, and another margarita. By now I’m regretting I haven’t got my party pants on because the atmosphere is getting to me. I want to dance on the tables and pour tequila down my throat. Thankfully, or not, I am too full and dessert definitely puts the moxxa on anything slinky. A plate of freshly made churros arrives accompanied by two dipping sauces; dark chocolate and a salted butterscotch. As if that is not already overdrive, a dessert of chocolate cake and vanilla ice cream topped with chocolate mousse arrives with it. Game over! Absolutely Motel Mexicola is a party venue, a great place for holidaymakers and locals to congregate and have a great time. There is also a more serious side to it and the menu is proof that if you stick to your guns and produce food that is authentic, true to its roots and ultimately delicious, people will respond. Trip Advisor can’t be wrong, can it? The new menu is well worth exploring. Discover what real Mexican food is about and take this tour, rest assured, you will enjoy the ride. S.D. www.motelmexicolabali.com

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oral pleasures

Hanging out at Luigi’s.

If your friends invited you to a pizza party in their backyard, it might resemble Luigi’s. That is assuming that your friends are extremely talented restaurant operators. With all the might of a team that rocks the food and party scene; from Executive chef Steven Skelley of Motel Mexicola and Da Maria; restaurateur Maurice Terzinni of Sydney’s Icebergs and Adrian Reed, currently boss of the pack, you know this is going to be good. The pizzas and salads stem from the menus of Da Maria, without the designer tag. The Rolls Royce of pizza ovens is about to be installed here and the venue has the air of a casual backyard party. And party is part of the mix, to be sure. With the set up created from shipping containers, painted and graffiti-d, a permanent DJ booth, a dance floor and slushy machines churning out fruit-filled cocktails, the party has started at Luigi’s and there is more to come. This is a team who are happy to go out on a limb, finesse and add to the mix as required. The paper cups will probably go, to be replaced by something that merits the short but serious wine list, the new hybrid pizza oven will play host to a slightly larger menu and a designer soft serve ice cream stand will offer the ultimate cool down treat. “The pop up feel will stay,” explains Executive chef, Steven Skelley. “We’re still turning out high quality pizzas, keeping the prices down and then we just adapt depending on what works, what doesn’t. Luigi’s will be in constant flow, like all the restaurants. We don’t stand still for long.“ An integral part of all their venues is music. It’s always updated, playing to the crowds, and each of their venues has a feel of its own. Playlists, and DJs, are charged with creating the feel for the food. A lot of effort goes into creating something that appears so simple. And it is simply delicious. Hot, fast, cool and classy, in a great openair venue, at the right price. Luigi’s hot Pizza is ticking the boxes. Two exceptional pizzaiolo (the real deal from Naples) have been manning the pizza ovens at Da Maria since it opened. They are charged with finessing the Luigi’s pizzas as well and one of them (they go out of their way to look the same), was throwing dough

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with the local staff the night we popped in. The pizza oven was fired up and the smell of bubbling cheese and charred crust is enough to persuade almost any human off the street. Luigi’s opened with a simple menu of six salads and 10 pizzas. The bar, set up in one of the containers, is open on all sides to make room for the party-goers. The crowds arrive bearded, carrying babies, barefoot, clad in designer t-shirts with all the swagger of a large Instagram following. Canggu has become every bit as competitive as Seminyak these days and getting the mix right is a lot harder than it once was. Having said that, these guys have operated destination restaurants for years and they get it. Luigi’s has tapped into a festive vibe that rings of a neighborhood party about to happen. Prices are kept friendly, with nothing currently over 100k. Cocktails (all priced to please at under Rp100k), mocktails and healthy beverages like the popular kombucha sit nicely alongside a small but perfectly adequate list of wines and beer The pizzas are every bit as good as Da Maria, on a smaller scale. They have pared it down to make it affordable, accessible and easy. This is t-shirt and thongs territory, after all. Pizzas are priced between Rp70k and Rp90k, while the substantial salads start from Rp65k with the pumpkin and fior di latte salad topping the price list at Rp100k. Party nights are “owned” in this area of Canggu. Old Mans’ have their party designated nights, Deus next door and The Lawn each have their nights, so Luigi’s are unashamedly claiming Saturday with a few mid-week pop ups expected. The parties start at 5pm, so it’s early up. Dee jays, dance floor, bare feet, free flow and pizza reign here. Luigi’s Hot Pizza is certainly playing to the crowd and judging by the way they are pouring through the bamboo gate, this pop-up is here to stay. S.D. www.facebook.com/luigishotpizzabali

shortwiring the scene at luigiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s.

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oral pleasures

Indian Ocean overview at Ji.

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ji whizz ji terrace by the sea rises above batu bolong at tugu to marry ocean views with unique flavours.

Now that the sleepy surf village of Batu Bolong has been transformed beyond recognition with a massive influx of millennial tourists and digital nomads, one could be mistaken for thinking that it’s all over for those who don’t have a thriving Instagram account, a beard or a baby. Not true. In fact many of the early dwellers remain, and some have enjoyed a boost with the new arrivals. One such business is Tugu. Once confined to the outskirts, the thoroughly unique museum hotel is firmly placed at the center of the action and they have taken to the new scene like the proverbial duck to water. While veggie-burgers and smashed avocado are now the order of the day, Tugu has remained true to its roots and offers something that is created with grown ups in mind, offering a stunning alternative to the action closer to the ground. Ji opened last year. In true Tugu-style, they imported an old Chinese temple from Java as their main stage for the restaurant, which marries Japan and New York in its menu. Eclectic it has always been and remains so. With the surf lapping at its heels, it was only natural that Ji expanded upstairs where the terrace overlooks the lawn beside and the sea beyond. The menu is created by their team of Japanese and Asian-trained chefs and led by consulting chef Colin Buchan, formerly with Gordon Ramsay and personal chef to David and Victoria Beckham. They are setting the bar high with Ji. The menu is a fascinating fusion of Japanese, Indonesian and contemporary Asian dishes offered on their all-day dining menu. The terrace occupies two levels with a long bar, turning out some fabulous exotic cocktails, and a sushi bar and hot kitchen where the smell of grilled meat and seafood sets the appetite thirsting for flavour. Large sofas and day beds are scattered for comfort and the balcony is lined with stools to enjoy the view. The top level is breezy and chilled with both tables and balcony dining. The staff are polished in a Balinese way and the music is funky and perfect for the setting, playing off Asian interiors with a modern soundtrack. Sushi is big here. A good half of the menu is devoted to the Japanese section. Light bites include tempura and gyoza, succulent crisp pork belly

bites and agadashi tofu. Raw and cured seafood includes red snapper and fennel with wasabi mayonnaise and yellowtail tuna tataki. The sashimi is fresh and vibrant and includes buttery raw salmon and a delicate akami, a toploin tuna. An assorted sashimi plate with 10 pieces comes at Rp150,000, so the prices are Canggu-friendly. They take great pride in their nigiri and this covers everything from the traditional to modern combinations like the foie gras and roasted apple, a popular choice for the foodies. A host of maki rolls are the perfect sundowner or entrée for those who want to stay beyond sunset. Vegetarians may struggle here as the menu is heavy on seafood with some meat and chicken on the mains menu, but a menu of gourmet salads may get you through. While the menu focuses on small plates designed to share, some meatier mains are available including a tender imported tenderloin of beef with Japanese mushrooms, grilled salmon with eggplant, or a very tempting grilled lobster with Cilantro butter. We kept to light bites and watched the sun go down. The crowd on the upper terrace is a testament to the new Canggu crowd, a mix of visiting tourists, local hipsters, surfers and young families. It’s all mixed up and Tugu is the perfect antidote to the crowds below and the booming soundtracks offered in many of the local bars and beach clubs. Our afternoon on the Ji Terrace was spent enjoying a lovely glass or two of wine, watching the sun go down, sampling a variety of small bites, all of which were beautifully executed, presented on thoroughly modern plates and infused with vitality and personality, while sharing stories and sashimi bites with a couple from the Caribbean. Best of all, Ji at Tugu is an experience that goes beyond the excellent cocktails, the appealing menus and the view. It’s a chance to experience something that is truly unique. Tugu is as far from a cookie cutter resort and restaurant as you will find, it is well worth discovering the mysteries that wait up the stairs. S.D. www.tuguhotels.com

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Warisan means heritage in Indonesian, so when the spacious restaurant behind Warisan Living’s hallmark store became vacant, the owner of Heritage Restaurants moved in. Despite the fact that Heritage had only just opened their Vietnamese and dim sum house across the road, the synergy was simply too hard to resist. Taking over a space as revered in the dining journals as Warisan once was is no small thing. Despite a short stint as Italian restaurant Illido, Warisan reigned for years among Bali’s best destination dining spots. The new owners of the space, Heritage Resto and Lounge, are well aware of the history and rather than attempting to recreate it, they plan to open the space to new diners. Heritage serves up a combination of Western dishes and Heritage Indonesian dishes, sourced across the archipelago, alongside some creative signature dishes. The flow of the restaurant remains; a beautiful space with a large central courtyard surrounded by shops. The space harks back to traditional architecture with stylish upgrades. The menu we tried is so new that the head chef is yet to sign off on it. August will see the space officially open, meanwhile a soft opening period gives us a taste of things to come. “We don’t want to bring back the past, rather we want to open Warisan and Heritage to new audiences. We will play on our Indonesian heritage dishes as well as offering an International menu. We will offer an affordable lunch special daily and at night, we will make it a little more formal,” explains Heritage’s Michelle Louna. For our lunch, we sampled a variety of dishes, from up-scaled hawker dishes to classic Indonesian to a range of Western choices that included fresh seafood and a foie gras dish that evokes memories of the former owners. The long bar has been updated with fabulous artworks. Floating white curtains define the spaces and the windows surrounding the courtyard offer a glimpse of the stunning shops and boutiques that overlook the garden.

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The first dish on the menu is a classic hawker-style favourite that has been updated to give it restaurant status and a flavourful makeover. Tahu berontak is a stuffed tofu dish that is often seen in street stalls. The Heritage version adds a king prawn before the parcel stuffed with vegetables is deep fried and served alongside a sweet chili dipping sauce. Locals will love this dish while visitors will discover a street food classic. The next dish was a giant leap; foie gras served with apple compote with a vibrant raspberry and dragon fruit smear. The dish was a classic on the Warisan menu and is still served at Metis, where the powerhouses behind Warisan set up shop after their move. The chef has taken liberties with the dish to make it his own and surely the incoming Executive Chef will put his spin on it. It’s an interesting nod to the past. Following this we travelled back closer to home. A banana blossom salad served in a banana blossom has the hallmark flavours of Indonesia. Grated vegetables are spiced up in a play on rujak with lemongrass, fish sauce and coriander rising to the occasion. A thoroughly western grilled fish followed. A perfectly cooked fillet of sea bass was pan seared, with a green curry dressing and served with an apple and eggplant farci. The menu offers light dishes including a Heritage nasi campur, a Keraton beef dish inspired by the royal houses of Yogyakarta, a choice of curries, pastas, salads, sandwiches and meat dishes. Roast chicken is offered alongside ayam betutu, pork chops marry with a Balinese-inspired sauce and western meets Asian in a menu that is as eclectic as it promises. The beauty of this menu is that it has wide appeal. For those who want to sample Indonesian food when their dining partners want something else, Heritage offers an accessible menu in a beautiful space. Once the Executive Chef signs on a new energy is anticipated that may appeal to both old and new customers of Warisan. S.D. Photos Lucky 8. www.facebook.com/heritageindochinedimsum/

fillet of se a bass.

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Girls Just Want to have fun – preferably at Blow Bar Bali.

Who doesn’t love hanging out with the girls, getting pretty, enjoying a few drinks and heading out on the town? Blow Bar is absolutely made for this. With a full range of treatments for nails and hair, as well as make up on demand, Blow Bar offers some of our favourite things: manicures and blow dries, pedicures and make up, and of course a full bar! Tucked away behind the Bamboo Blonde’s flagship store on Oberoi Road, Blow Bar has become the ultimate go-to salon for Bali expats. The long black and white bar is an attraction in itself and happy hours on the weekend get us in there without any excuse at all. Life’s like that. Blow Bar also takes care of the boys, so no one need feel left out. With a barber chair set up front and centre, the mere male gets a look in on treatments as well as a great view of the girls making pretty. For those who don’t go for the whole metrosexual thing, a few beers at the bar seems a far better option than hanging out in a salon minding the handbag. Memories of hanging out with friends and preparing for a night on the town only tells part of the story of why Blow Bar appeals to so many of us. Taking multi-tasking to new levels, blow Bar is a salon, a bar, an indulgence and an experience. 122

It’s no surprise that Espresso martinis go down quicker with friends, or that the shop outside becomes the wardrobe for the night out. Getting together with the girls is always a good excuse for a drink. When you can combine it with beauty treatments you are on a winner. That’s possibly why it’s not that easy to get an appointment. Women sitting at the bar in curlers, having their hair done and juggling a drink while the manicurist tries to pry the hand from the glass is all part of what happens here. There’s also an open lounge area at the back for smokers. Blow Bar ticks a lot of boxes for the party crowd. Treatments though aren’t slacking off, they offer all the latest in nail treatments including the latest SNS nail treatments, gels and shellac, and a range of high end products for both hair and nails. It is absolutely an indulgence, which is one of the reasons we love it, it’s also an essential for many women who want to hit the town looking polished head to toe. It is the ultimate urban indulgence. S.D.

www.blowbarbali.com

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Coastal dining at Alila Seminyak.

fishermanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s friend.

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You’re never far from the sea at Alila Seminyak’s latest dining adventure, Sea Salt. Perched on a stretch of absolute beachfront, waves rolling in endlessly, Sea Salt combines elements of the sea with one of the world’s oldest culinary traditions and presents it as one of Bali’s freshest, modern dining concepts. Salt plays a large part in every dish and for opening night each guest was presented with a range of their flavoured salts, a treasure for home cooks and a fitting introduction to this subtle and evocative Seminyak restaurant.

Sunday brunch lends itself to coastal dining. From 12 to 4pm, the waves roll in as freshly shucked oysters, fresh prawns and house cured salmon arrives at the table. Helping yourself to seconds, and thirds even, is bliss for seafood lovers.

Alila opened its doors over a year ago to great applause. The minimalist design, the spaces opening on beautiful seafront views and an upmarket urban sensibility. Five swimming pools cater to guests and visitors and their beach bar is often standing room only for sunset.

The menu doesn’t end there however and one of the highlights of the brunch is their tiny samples of almost everything that appears on the à la carte menu. This means that you can truly peruse the menu at your leisure.

The restaurant took a little longer to find its feet, however, manicured toes in the sand, beautiful spaces made warm by a stunning redesign, it has found its deserved place in the sun. The menu focuses on seafood, but offers a whole lot more. Besides salt, they also turned to Japan for its inspiration, propelling the concept of umami, the fifth flavour profile, into dishes as refined as the resort. Chef Vivien, the resort’s Chef, has taken a world of ingredients, including those closest to source and created dishes that play their part in enhancing the beautiful dining room, with its impressive open kitchen concept, into a destination for dining as fine, or as simple, as the diner requires. Food and Beverage Manager, Guillermo Varela Mata, explains that although this is a resort restaurant, its location on the sea in Central Seminyak opens Sea Salt to diners dropping in to enjoy breakfast, lunch, dinner, brunches and their biggest draw, magnificent sunsets. “ The concept and the pricing are very competitive. There’s a perception that hotel dining is not affordable, at Alila we have an open house concept and the menu at Sea Salt has been created to have wider appeal, to make sure that everyone feels welcome,” he explains. “Sea Salt is very much about sharing; meals, conversation and cocktails. The dishes are inspired by the sea with a magical sprinkling of flavoured sea salts mingling with Japanese ingredients and culinary traditions.” Taking our turn through the new menu offers a chance to savour the flavours coming out of this impressive kitchen. The extensive brunch on Sunday offers the chance to graze through the menus for a set price, add an alcohol package and this becomes a meal to celebrate.

There are some really delicious vegetable dishes on this menu as well, and with small portions you can order them all without filling up, or feeling guilty about the leftovers. A mushroom dish is among my favourites, the Japanese influence is front and centre in the vegetable dishes. Seafood too gets its turn with a delicious blue swimmer crab chawanmushi a highlight on the menu and a nod to the finesse of this kitchen. A jewel-like butterfish dish with roasted carrot and carrot puree is another example, finished simply with a spray of sesame seeds. This is a brunch created in the great tradition. The price at Rp485,000++ includes a welcome glass of bubbles and the chance to linger over a delicious meal served by the sea. A quick dip in the pool is the perfect intermission for a meal like this. Cocktails at Alila are a highlight with flavoured margaritas, mojitos, manhattans and some signature cocktails that play on the ingredients from the kitchen creating perfect pairings. The brunch menu also offers wine and champagne alongside 2 for 1 specials on selected cocktails. Dining at Sea Salt anytime of the day or night offers the chance to watch a finely tuned, creative kitchen playing to its strengths. It’s dynamic, delicious and thoughtful and the location is a joy. The coastal brunch is like a showcase of all the things they do so well. Drink up and order again, it’s so easy to do. S.D. www.seasaltseminyak.com

Guaranteed upgrade. Complimentary cocktails. free spa treatments - and cheaper than online. join our yak perks program and enjoy your booking with superb benefits. more details: www.theyakmag.com

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oral pleasures inspired by Indonesia. photo: lucky 8.

local hero.

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The Good Food Brotherhood are well established for their hip and healthy cafes, Watercress and Milk&Madu, yet something was missing in their culinary lives. Often on the road, searching for new sites and inspiration, the brothers in business, Jordy and Pablo, found themselves craving Indonesian food. It’s an easy thing to find but the quality can vary enormously. Named for the stone mortar and pestle that is found in almost every home across the archipelago, Indonesian dishes start with their spice paste and build on flavours from there. Getting that authentic spice profile is absolutely essential to achieving the end result. As with everything they do, these boys have put effort in here and the proof is in the air as you wander in. “The food we often find ourselves craving is really good local food; nasi campur, sates, nasi goreng and some of the flavourful vegetable dishes and raw salads the Indonesians do so well. A lot of our friends were feeling the same,” explains Pablo, who spent a lot of his childhood in Bali. So the pair decided to give birth to their own version of a warung; one that tourists wouldn’t be hesitant to try. “There’s a perception out there that street food can be dodgy, or loaded up with msg, over-fried or created with inferior quality ingredients, and it can be. We just wanted to create a place where we would like to eat ourselves and hopefully other people would too,” explains Jordy. Ulekan is a stylish, breezy café that is a simple wantilan-style building, styled up with black and white tile floors, a wide bar, swirling overhead fans and chic rattan lights. The location in Berawa right next door to a beautifully appointed Balinese temple adds to the atmosphere. The music is cool, the service is brisk and efficient and the small menu touches on all the favourites. The dish of choice for most is the nasi campur. A beautifully presented version of the most popular items on the menu built around a central mound of organic red or white rice. Nasi Campur is the way most Indonesians build their daily meals, assorted dishes served with rice. At Ulekan they have made it artful and available with or without meat. Don’t for one moment imagine that this is simply Indonesian food in a nicer location. Each dish is full of flavour and beautifully prepared. A revelation for many, who, like me, think they don’t like Indonesian food. For those who are converted, Ulekan will come as a very pleasant surprise. In trendy Berawa blogger-land there are already a host of Instagrammers lining up their shots before tucking in. Thankfully, all I have to do is eat. A very refreshing pineapple and coconut granita set me up well for this lunch. The menu travels from warung classics like Gado Gado to a menu of selected sates. An Ulekan salad may have made my list if

I hadn’t cast my eye elsewhere. The tempting main course-sized salad bowl is piled high with crunchy house salad, coconut and turmeric poached chicken, crispy rice, snake beans, baby eggplant, herbs and a chili and kaffir lime dressing. It looked vibrant and fresh. Other classics on the menu include mie goreng (friend noodles), sop buntut (oxtail soup), soto ayam Madura style (a popular chicken soup with rice noodles and bean sprouts), and rawon Ulekan, a thicker version of the oxtail soup. What caught my eye though was the build-your-own rijstaffel menu. Rijstaffel is a style of eating introduced by the Dutch as a way to entertain guests with a range of local dishes. Often whatever the cook could manage. It’s a multi-course meal that is still popular. At Ulekan they have scaled down popular mains to offer a taste of the menu all in smaller portions. There are 15 dishes to choose from and 4-5 per guest is recommended on the menu. They range from Rp8,000 for daun sinkong, cassava curry, to Rp25,000 for the kare sari laut, a seafood curry. Order as many or as few as you like and a small bowl of rice and your lunch is made to order. I chose a beef rendang, an absolute classic in flavour and appearance, but this one is made from beef cheek, simmered long and slow. The dish was spot on and the meat was melting, really a beautiful rendition of this dish. I also ordered cap cay, the much adulterated dish served in warungs everywhere, with over-stewed vegetables floating in a watery broth. This little tiny gem was bursting with freshness, poured into a tiny bowl of beautiful broth. Possibly one of the best I have had. My favourite of all though was the classic kare ayam, chicken curry. The creamy turmeric-spiked sauce was good enough to eat with a spoon. OK, I did. The chicken was tender, not stringy or chewy, as is often the case. My red rice (I famously avoid rice) was nutty, topped with fried shallots and mostly found it’s way into the broth from the cap cay. I simply had to put my dessert pants on and the small but sweet menu promised all the inherent sweetness that the locals love. I opted to try a Balinese Banoffee, with the waiter’s promise that it was the sweetest thing on the menu. Well it didn’t disappoint. Sweet, yet but with an earthy toffee flavour and a crumble crust that gave it great texture. I could only manage a couple of bites but a deft hand in the pastry department created this, in fact I think I preferred it to the original. Ulekan is a perfect hybrid of the Canggu café meets local warung. There are loads of Instagram opportunities, and the food is fresh, delicious and not too heavy. It’s a great place to pop in and put a few local dishes under your belt. You’ll like it, I did. S.D. www.goodfoodbrotherhood.com

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Clockwise from top left: the joglo; the anvaya beach resort; azul beach club; sofitel hotel & resorts.

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Hard to think of a better way to wind-down the week and catch up with favourite folk. Katie truman goes gaga over brunch.

With its towering, semi-open Tiki-style, all bamboo and thatch restaurant-bar, alongside Legian Beach, Azul Beach Club is the epitome of a tropical island hang-out. The perfect spot to unwind at the weekend and enjoy a smokin’ hot (literally) Sunday Barbecue Brunch: a super casual, family-friendly backyard barbecue concept, one of the few brunches where you don’t have to glam-up – come straight off the beach in your finest flip-flops and singlets, if you must. And priced at IDR275,000 – with children dining at half price – you can easily bring the entire family clan. From noon to 4pm, flame on. Out at the barrel grill, choose from freshly barbecued pork ribs, beef, rotisserie chicken, lamb and house-made sausages, all smothered in anything from sambal matah to salsa verde; Chef will additionally barbecue seafood preferences to order – be it Kalimantan half-crab or spicy seared Jimbaran king prawns – and kindly deliver to your table. Other tasty treats include signature charcoal naan bread from the kitchen’s Tandoor oven, an overflowing salad bar and essentials like baked potatoes and corn on the cob. After that little lot, desserts are individually served. It could be worse, fanned by ocean breezes and watching surfers ride the waves, and the kid’s off next door to Bali Mandira Resort’s Kid’s Club for activities ranging from pizza making to lawn games. Brunch comes inclusive of free-flow non-alcoholic beverages, but to enter the “spirit” of things, ‘Vacation in a Glass,’ a mix of vodka, pineapple juice, coconut and sparkling wine, poured into a tall Tiki glass, comes highly recommended. Even better, post-brunch, head pronto to Azul’s upper deck for the appropriately-named ‘Where’s My Mojito?’ poolside party, from 2pm to sunset magically tacking onto the brunch – whose brilliant idea was this? Here, get stuck into five Mojitos exclusively curated for this poolside session (at staggeringly good value), including the more-ish Coco-nutty Mojito, all the while entertained with toe-tapping Latino and Salsa sounds courtesy of the in-house DJ and live percussionist and a bevy of salsa dancers on the pool deck threatening impromptu

Salsa dance classes. If that all sounds exhausting, crash out in a pre-booked cabana or sunbed, keeping cool with repeat dips in the boutique-sized infinity pool. No wonder ‘Where’s My Mojito?’ went from once-monthly to a weekly event, by popular demand. With Mojitos knocked-back in the Jacuzzi pool, Salsa in the sunshine and an infectious party spirit, it could all get messy. But a little overindulgence in Legian never did anyone any harm. www.azulbali.com Surprisingly, there are few quality weekend brunches in the KutaTuban area, so the newly minted Sunday Brunch, at The Anvaya Beach Resort Bali, is a welcome addition. The former Hotel Santika Premiere Beach Resort – rebranded in 2016 as 495-room five-Star – The ANVAYA extends down to Tuban’s gorgeous beach, littered with local jukung boats and offering a more tranquil scenario than Kuta‘s nearby stretch. This is the heavenly view enjoyed while dining at Sands Restaurant, the resort’s aptly-named, all-day international restaurant housed within an ultra- contemporary pavilion beside the beach; its floor-toceiling glass doors pulled back for max sunshine and ocean breezes, while the timbered deck edging the sand is cool for al fresco dining. Kicking-off at 12 noon, the Sunday Brunch costs from IDR359,000 (IDR100,000 for children aged nine to twelve, aged eight and under eat free), inclusive of free-flow non-alcohol beverages; the lychee iced teas are great, but for something stronger, alcoholic packages run from beer and mocktail inclusions, to Bubbles packages featuring Louis Roederer Brut Premier, from the walk-in wine cellar. At any time, but especially brunch, Sands Restaurant concept is an interactive dining and open kitchen experience: a series of generous-sized live cooking stations spread across the vast floor, complete with an army of chefs. The idea is, try your hand at cooking under Chef’s guidance, or simply watch them freshly prepare your a la minute orders right in front of you. With this, and heaps of self-serve hot and cold plates, there’s

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mouthwatering global dishes galore, albeit with a distinctly Asian leaning; anything from European cheeses and pastas, and grilled sizzling seafood and meats, to Japanese and Indian signatures, Dim Sum and roasted morsels, like Peking Duck. Don’t miss the just-stirred offerings from the frenetic Wok Bar, or signature Noodle Corner, where Chef makes Chinese Lamien noodles by hand; fresh noodles promptly placed in a bowl of aromatic chicken and mushroom broth, along with crispy wontons, bok choy and spicy condiments. Plenty of dessert options, but trot over to the outrageous chocolate fountain. An acoustic live band sets the chillax factor and for much needed “our time” dining, hand your little darlings over at the lobby lounge for fully supervised, fun activities like cupcake baking. Even if you do dine en famille, the kid’s still get to make pizzas with the Chefs. Why go home after it all ends at 3pm? The ANVAYA positively encourages you to stay on at this lovely beachside spot, providing a DJ for chilled sounds and complimentary use of the resort’s three pools and ample sunbeds, shaded by trees. And before you know it, it’s time for sunset cocktails down on the beach, making a fabulous day of it. www.theanvayabali.com For those not keeping up with Berawa developments (who can blame them?) The Joglo is a recent addition from the Made’s Warung family: a charming, multi-functional venue, housed within an old Joglo (a traditional Javanese wooden dwelling) in tropical grounds. Highly esteemed in Indo culture, Joglo’s are typically places where all the family gathers and this Joglo – sourced from Central Java, dismantled and relocated over to Bali – is no exception: a family-orientated oasis where families do indeed come together for quality downtime. The main semi-open Joglo contains the all-day café, complete with gelateria, coffee and cocktail bar, pizzeria and indoor Kid’s Corner, lovingly furnished with vintage wooden seating and comfy couches, extending out to the Godsend of a small outdoor Kid’s playground, designed to Australian safety standards, with lawns and cubby house. (If you must have air-con, an adjoining Joglo provides this and In The Raw juice bar). The Joglo’s recently launched Sunday brunch stands out from the rest; no buffet spreads or live stations here, rather, a Traditional Indonesian Rijstaffel Set Menu, created by Made’s Warung – sticking with the overall concept showcasing of Indonesian culinary traditions. Rijstaffel (“rice table”) originated from Indonesia’s Dutch colonial-era, when the Dutch were so impressed by all the delicious, diverse archipelago dishes, that they adapted many as an elaborate Rijsttaffel, dining ritual, a Dutch-Indo smorgasbord still served today. Sticking with tradition, albeit with a few modifications, The Joglo’s Indonesian Rijstaffel brunch, served from 11am to 2pm, is presented in one fell swoop, with a multitude of small plates – around 14 – consisting of traditional fish, meat and veggie dishes originating from Bali and Indonesian islands and totally representing diverse taste sensations, textures and spice levels, accompanied by rice, freshly-pounded sambals and condiments. Expect meat dishes like Rendang Sapi, (spicy beef ) and Ayam Sereh (chicken lemongrass) and vegetable offerings that run to Pepes Tahu (grilled tofu in banana leaf ) and Lawar Nangka (Balinese jack fruit), rounded-off with Mango Sticky Rice. All super-casual and fun to share with family or friends – although a kid’s menu

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is available if needs be. This veritable feast costs just IDR125,000 per person, inclusive of a glass of Sangria or free-flow iced tea – but you could always fork out for a well-priced Bloody Mary. Even better, deposit the kids at the Kid’s Corner, where they can join-in with an arts and crafts class provided free every Sunday, while you catch-up with your favourite people, hum along to the live music and order another Bloody Mary. www.thejoglo.com Ooh la la! Bali’s only French luxury hotel brand, Sofitel Bali Nusa Dua Beach Resort, has continually won acclaim from foodies and international publications alike, for their magnifique French-orientated gastronomic brunches: a lavish spread of multiple buffet and live stations piled with premium quality imported items, including decadent French cheeses, charcuterie goodies and house-made pastries. Hosted weekends at signature restaurant Cut Catch Cucina, Sofitel’s sumptuous Le Weekend Brunch à la Française, ranked as “One of the World’s Top Ten Brunches” by Condé Nast Traveler, subsequently succeeded by The Weekend Chic Brunch, the island’s first-ever “Haute Couture” brunch. Following on from their legend-in-alunchtime success, ever-evolving to keep ahead of the brunch bunch, Sofitel Nusa Dua unveils late August, their all-new Riviera Brunch, the third in this brunch trilogy. At time of going to press, it wasn’t possible to test-run any of this. But the very name, plus tag line, “The Mediterranean Flair Brunch,” evokes the French and Italian Riviera’s unmistakable cuisine, tastes and flair. And hosted again in Sofitel’s signature restaurant, now rebranded as Cucina, indulgently stretching from 11am to 3pm on Sunday, this new Riviera Brunch promises to be an even more extravagant affair and as classy as a Dior showroom. Word is, live food stations will include classic French, Italian and Mediterranean dishes and spreads, with the usual top-notch cheeses, fresh seafood and meats, a la carte options and pass-around treats. Expect, however, a more Italian influenced set-up, what with classic Italian fish dishes, including Tuscany-style roasted barramundi, live pasta stations, fine cold cuts that run to salami and prosciutto, authentic pizzas and Italian-inspired tipples like house-made Limoncello and Amaretto – there’s even a Cannoli Bar. Brunch prices start from IDR 599,000, inclusive of free-flow non-alcoholic beverages and fruity iced teas; alcoholic packages, starting from IDR 899,000, run to the Premium Package (IDR1,799,000), which, besides brunch and free flow non-alcoholic beverages, goes overboard with beers, cocktails, fine wines and Champagne. To help you delve further into the Riviera mindset, Cucina’s interiors recreate a nostalgic ambiance, there’s more emphasis on al fresco dining (as if beside the Mediterranean Sea) and a chic dress code calls for simply white or white-cream apparel. What hasn’t changed however, is that children below twelve dine for free, everyone gets entertained by a live magician and acoustic band, and enjoys complimentary access to the five-star’s beachfront pools. Mamma mia, Sofitel could well surpass themselves with this little Riviera number. www.sofitel-bali-nusadua.com

BEACHSIDE INSPIRED DINING AT ICE DECK Experience the exclusivity of your very own terrace overlooking Seminyak Beach. Live it up and dine in style with a nine course culinary journey inspired by Chef De Cuisine Ash Garvey’s exploration throughout the archipelago, topped with a modern and innovative twist. IDR 850,000++/person

EVERYDAY 6 PM – 10.30 PM

Reservations required +62 361 4738 106 b&f.wbali@whotels.com ©2016 Marriott International, Inc. All Rights Reserved. W and its logos are the trademarks of Marriott International, Inc., or its affiliates.

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stephanie mee tracks the rise and rise of a clifftop classic.

It’s late afternoon and you’re lounging next to a turquoise infinity pool perched on the edge of a cliff. The sun is just starting to sink, turning the sky into fiery shades of orange and red, and from your vantage point you can see waves rolling in from the Indian Ocean. You’ve just ordered another gin and tonic, mellow beats are playing in the background, and Spanish tapas are on their way. Where else could you possibly be but El Kabron? El Kabron has certainly come a long way since its beginning as a small chiringuito (a no-frills beach bar) with no electricity down the end of a bumpy unpaved road. Today they consistently top lists and win awards as one of Bali’s best bars and sunset spots, and they’re constantly evolving to offer their guests an unrivalled clifftop experience. The El Kabron story starts when two sons of Spain decided to trade in their snowboards and cold mountain weather for surfboards and more tropical climes. David and Jesus Iglesias arrived on Bali in the early 2000s, and like many before them, they fell in love with the surf, weather and people. The brothers settled in Dreamland to be close to the surf, and they soon started dreaming about owning their own plot of land. David says, “We knew we wanted land facing the ocean, and after experiencing many amazing sunsets with friends here, this plot stood out. At first it was just a small cabana where we would hang out, and then we realised that Bali was missing a great Spanish place with an authentic atmosphere, so we created a small restaurant and bar. We called it a chiringuito, which means a bar on a beach, or kind of like a Spanish warung.” The brothers also decided to name the spot El Kabron. David says, “The phrase El Kabron has many meanings in Spanish. For example, when Castilian people step through the door here, the first thing they might think is ‘Wow, El Kabron’. In this context it’s a name given to someone they are proud of, like somebody who has achieved something great. But the name can also have a bad meaning, like when you want to call someone an asshole. For us we take the good and the bad.” From the very beginning the Iglesias brother’s restaurant and bar was a happening hangout, and it’s pretty easy to see why. First of all, the lofty location atop a limestone cliff is pretty ace with sweeping views over Dreamland Beach and its famous surf breaks. Secondly, the Mediterranean menu with authentic Spanish tapas and sangria fit perfectly with the easy-going tropical vibes. And of course there are those amazing technicolour sunsets over the sea. Yet despite the spot’s immediate popularity, there were some definite hurdles to overcome. David says, “The biggest challenge was access. The road leading down here was just a dirt road, which was pretty crazy. Also there was no electricity, so for the first two years we ran the restaurant entirely with generators. It was very stressful. We had to convince the government to install electricity and pave the road, and it took them three years to approve that. Perseverance paid off though, and with the help of new business partners, the brothers made big changes like adding a gorgeous infinity pool on the

terrace, bringing in live bands to play sunset gigs, and amping up the menu with dishes like paellas and grilled seafood, plus fine wines and handcrafted cocktails. And as demand for sunset spots on their terrace grew, they added an exclusive lower balcony carved directly out of the side of the cliff, and changed the layout of the pool with loungers on different levels so everyone can have uninterrupted views of the sunset. According to David, El Kabron’s success has hinged on much more than just a spectacular setting. He says, “We evolved because our friends and guests loved the space, but started asking for more. They told us what they wanted, and we listened. That’s really how we grew from a chiringuito bar on the cliff to what are now. “We realise that we’re far away, so people really have to make an effort to come to our place, and when you make an effort to go somewhere, you really want to be taken care of. We understand that people want to have privacy on the edge of the cliff and don’t want to feel crowded, so we limit the seating to provide each guest with their own special area. We also do this so we can give each guest the service they deserve.” To maintain the intimate atmosphere that they’ve had since the early days, El Kabron also has a pre-payment system in place during the day where guests pay a set fee on arrival that includes a welcome glass of champagne, towels and pool service, and credit that can be used towards food. Guests can then settle in for the day and stay for sunset without having to worry about droves of tourists pouring in and muscling in on their primo sunset spot. After sunset, entrance is free. David says, “It’s not about money. It’s about protecting the experience and creating a brand that people recognize as having high standards of service. We’re not a walk-in McDonald’s kind of place, and we don’t want to be one of those venues that crowds people in so there are 100 people standing in front of you at sunset time. We strive to make sure the value you get is always greater than the value you pay. Today El Kabron is renowned as one of Bali’s hottest drinking and dining destinations, yet they’re still constantly making improvements to serve their guests better. For example, they recently revamped the menu to include gastrotapas-like truffled smoked goat cheese verrine, cheese and charcuterie platters with premium imported Spanish cheese and meats, and fresh seafood like Lombok oysters and home-cured salmon pastrami. El Kabron will also host live accoustic music every night after sunset. Champagne summers event the last saturday of each month with fashion shows by the pool and a truly decadent sunset celebration where they shower the crowd with Moet & Chandon bubbly. Keep an eye out as well for future happenings like their Hole in One Over the Cliff contest, and a new pool for families and children slated to open in 2018. www.elkabron.com

oysters and infinity views.

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exotic & idyllic retreat ...where life is a private celebration

Sanur I Ubud I Nusa Dua I Jimbaran P. 62 361 705 777 F. 62 361 705 101 E. experience@kayumanis.com

kayumanis

kayumanisresort

FOR VANITY & SANITY! BEAUTY • SALON • SPA • NAILS • BRIDAL • BARBER

info@glospabali.com

www.glospabali.com

SEMINYAK: Kunti Plaza – Jl. Kunti No 119 Seminyak, Bali, Indonesia Tel. (+62) 361 738 689

SANUR: Gopa Town Square – Jl. Danau Poso 57 Sanur, Bali, Indonesia Tel. (+62) 361 282 826

Glo Spa Bali_AdYak56.indd 1

Glo Day Spa & Salon CANGGU: Jl. Subak Sari No 90 Canggu, Bali, Indonesia Tel. (+62) 361 934 8844

glodayspa_bali NUSA LEMBONGAN: Sandy Bay Lembongan, Bali, Indonesia Tel. (+62) 6289 701 5600

8/8/2017 3:25:04 PM

big six

sometimes you just need to feed the beast. sarah douglas visits six of the best places to indulge your inner-carnivore.

Fire @ W Hotel Bali - Seminyak When the waiter arrives at your table with a selection of some of the best cuts of steak available, meat eaters will think they’ve arrived in a heaven of sorts. The selection of steaks is among the best you’ll find in Bali and you choose your cut, how you’d like it prepared, what sauce, which sides (and there are some heavenly sides). All you have to do then is sit back under the kecak-inspired lamps and watch as the chef adds fire. The W Bali in Seminyak lives up to its “wow” factor with this inspired concept, where Bali meets New York steakhouse; it’s a treat for all the senses. As you’d expect, the wine list and cocktails are more than up to the task. And do try to leave room for dessert, it’s the bomb. Literally. Tel: +62 361 3000 106 www.wretreatbali.com/en/FIRE_LUNCH_ MENU Yak Map K.4 Naughty Nuri’s, Seminyak To err on the side of pork, you can’t go past Naughty Nuris for their flamelicked, marinated ribs that do not require a knife and fork, ever. In fact it’s probably against the rules, although they are provided. These naughty ribs got their start in the little Ubud roadside warung where martinis arrived to spark the crowd. They have now travelled to Seminyak and Jimbaran and the ribs never fail to draw a crowd, they’re as close to perfect as you’ll find. Order a martini to join the board and enjoy the “shake, shake, shake” show that has become so familiar people now sing along. There’s more on the menu that simply ribs and martinis but not to order them seems somehow wrong. Tel: +62 361 977 547 www.naughty-nuris.com Yak Map W.5 Mejekawi, Ku De Ta Upstairs at Kudeta, overlooking the moonlit stretch of beach below, feels kind of hi-brow but the open kitchen and rocking chefs bring it all back to earth. The latest addition to their inspired degustation menus is a steak menu that rocked our socks. Choose from a choice of rib eye, the 400 gram grass fed or the 1kg monster on the bone, or the glazed organic short ribs. The three course menu is the latest addition to the Mejekawi menu, pried at Rp550,000 per person it begins with freshly baked pretzels served with tuna tonatto and ends with dessert and more than likely a few amuse bouche along the way. Rich, delicious and offered with wine pairing that works brilliantly to turn steak night into a celebration. Tel: +62 361 736969 www.kudeta.com Yak Map N.8

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My Warung This little warung with its industrial chic interior offers a great steak dinner at a fabulous price, and it has the neighborhood all fired up. For around Rp150,000 a perfectly cooked slab of Australian rib eye is served up with béarnaise sauce homemade fries and a green salad studded with walnuts. L’Entrecote is a perfect lunch at 250 grams; at dinner a 500 g version is served, perfect for sharing. Lamb chops are a rare treat and they also appear on this menu at a very affordable price. My Warung has opened out near Echo Beach as well as their original location in Berawa, and plans to open six other folk-friendly My Warungs are afoot. The warung is open for breakfast as well and the menu offers a range of Asian and Western specialties. Delicious food at the right price, what to say? Tel: +62 82 339 120 880 www.mywarung.com Yak Map N.1 The Butcher’s Club When you know you want that ultimate burger, the one where the juices run down your arm, the salad is crunchy and the meat is A-grade, you probably want to head to The Butcher Club. The real difference is the way they pain-stakingly take care of their beef. Two grades of beef are firstly aged for the optimum time, and then ground daily, to create these burger patties. The rest is left to nature, fire and the gods of salt and pepper. The buns are baked daily at Monsieur Spoon; the salad is delivered from a dedicated organic farm. This is as far away from fast food as it gets. There is a whole range of burgers on the menu, even some for the vegetarians and perfect mini versions for the kids. The dry-aged steaks are also a highlight on this menu and there’s a lot more to chew on. See how it’s done right, check this one out! Tel: 2884 0768 www.thebutchers.club Yak Map Q.3 The Chicken Shop The most devoured meat of all is the humble chicken. Not so humble at the new Chicken Shop in Berawa where a lot of Aussie know-how has been put into play to create succulent rotisserie chickens that sing with flavor, burgers with fresh fillings including fried, barbecued or pulled rotisserie chicken, a few option for the plant eaters and a neighborhood favourite, the chicken parmi night. The chicken shop is elegantly presented, far and away from the little roadside take away but deliveries still rule here, so stack up your order with homemade gravy, a choice of gourmet salads and sides and spend a night in with the world’s favourite bird. Tel: +6282145467742 www.thechickenshopbali.com Yak Map O.1

constant wining

cava cock tails the reign in spain continues with freixenet cava cocktails at red carpet champagne bar. photos: lucky 8.

Freixent cocktails at Red Carpet. Get some.

Why is it that Ladies’ Nights at bars and clubs are often the most sensational fun you’ll have all month? The answer is possibly because when a group of women go out on the town they have a very clear intention, to have as much fun as possible without breaking the bank. They like to frock up, have their hair and nails done, spend time on their make-up and appearance and don outrageously dangerous heels. And so it is at Red Carpet Champagne Bar, where, on the 1st Wednesday of the month it becomes Ladies’ Night. All ladies will be given a ticket to spin the Wheel of Fortune where you’ll get the opportunity to win vouchers, cocktails and a myriad of lucky prices. Wear the colours of Freixenet and get an extra spin of the Wheel of Fortune. Great live music supplied by Nancy Ponto and band from 8pm till late at the best Champagne Bar in Bali – Red Carpet. 138

Cocktails, live music, tasty bar snacks and games. What could be better than that? The price, for one. The three cocktails that will be served are all based on Freixenet Cordon Negra Cava (sparkling wine) and all of them are absolutely delicious and priced at a ludicrously low IDR65,000++ all night from 9pm. The Royal Japanese includes Midori, Cointreau, lemon juice, topped up with Freixenet Brut; The French 75 which is a gorgeous blend of Gin, Galliano, Lemon juice and Freixenet Brut, and Drive Me Crazy, a heady mix of Dark Rum, passionfruit syrup, vanilla syrup, Freixenet Brut and a secret concoction of spices. See you at Red Carpet Champagne Bar and don’t forget to wear black/gold for an extra chance to win big on the Wheel of Fortune. www.redcarpetchampagnebar.com

KARMA BEACH BALI INTERNATIONAL DJS • SIGNATURE COCKTAILS • FRESH SEAFOOD • MEDITERRANEAN CUISINE • SUSHI BAR • SPA TENT • SIGNATURE EVENTS • BEACH ACTIVITIES

www.karmaclub.com | info@karmaclub.com

we create... experiences

venting in a villa take your pick. great offers from karma club. clockwise from top left: karma kandara, bali; le preverger, provence; royal bella vista, chiang mai; Pelikanos, Mykonos.

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c l u b k

Karma Club is a society of hedonistis and a golden guild for those who love to travel. Ondy Sweeting dips into the members only stand.

The Karma Club whisper has been winding around the hottest happenings on the Island of the Gods for a few months now. I have been asked at least a dozen times: “Have you joined Karma Club, yet?” Through the club, the award-winning international travel and lifestyle brand – Karma Group – is connecting a loose community of world travelers who love all things luxe and know that arriving is just the beginning of their jetset journey. So, the answer is yes. I am a member. Shortly after lodging the Karma Club membership application the phone rings with a call from Athens where a polite concierge enquires about your travel plans for the next 12 months. This can be quite a confrontational question for Last Minute Lucille here, but then comes the kicker: a couple of extraordinary offers for new members. Fancy an entire week at Karma Kandara in Bali or a Cây Tre sojourn in exotic Vietnam. Maybe a vacation to the beautiful lakeside Karma Chakra in India’s lush southern lands in Kerala is just around the corner. New members attract two weeks of inaugural offers to use during the first 12 months. Think a week in a gorgeous three-bedroom villa at the stunning Karma Kandara and other fantastic offer. Another lure is that other guests are likely to have a healthy appetite for the good life. In fact, Karma Group founder and celebrated entrepreneur John Spence insists the Karma Club is a loose band of globe trotting bohemians who love the high life. “We like to think that joining Karma’s international family will provide a lifestyle uplift for like-minded individuals on every continent,” he said. The inspiration behind creating Karma Club is to give customers unique experiences that are not ordinarily available. “The philosophy behind Karma Club is to offer an even better experience to our loyal Karma tribe with no strings and no stiffness – just a superb way to enjoy a little more Karma in your life,” John said. Karma Club delivers immediate discounts on accommodation, food and beverages plus spa treatments. It’s a win-win for Karma Group and the member given that travel agent commissions are dodged and the saving passed on. Pretty simple. “The Karma Club is a low investment membership program that will open doors to incredible experiences for its members, from big

discounts, to exclusive access to incredible VIP events all over the globe,” he said. This league of lovers of luxury appears to be a cut above the standard hotel loyalty rewards program, which offer points for spends. The points accumulate and are redeemed through in-house discounts. Or not. Karma’s introductory offers include a load of fabulous destinations that are vacation-ready including resorts or villas in Munich, St Martin’s in the Isles of Scilly off England’s Cornish Coast, the Greek island of Crete and two Karma properties in Thailand’s Phuket and Chang Mia plus more in Bali and anther two in India’s blissed out hippy haven of Goa. It’s little wonder that the circles of Bali’s rich and rarified have been a buzz with Karma Club talk. Everyone adores a deal. Further goodies for members include privilege prices at more than a 1000 hotels and resorts from New Zealand to Mexico that have partnered with Karma Group for when members stray outside of the family. Already, savvy Bali insiders who have jumped on the Karma cart enjoy free access, which is usually $40 per visit, plus 25% off food and drink and spa packages. New members also receive 25% off accommodation, automatic room and villa upgrades and a 4pm checkout. Families are well looked after with hugely comfortable selfcontained pool villas and small people love the free kids club and baby-sitting services. These friendly centres are the go-to place for kids when parents want some alone time. Expect engaged staff offering fun activities such as kite making, cooking, Zumba classes, volcano building on the beach and catching crabs in the rock pools along with endless quiet time for drawing and movie watching. www.karmaclub.com/join

Joining Karma Club is usually US$499, but as a Yak reader this has been waived. Simply log onto www. karmaclub/join and use ‘YAK’ in the promo code to receive your complimentary membership.

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venting in a villa head in the clouds.

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treetops alila ubud’s terrace tree villas showcase this beguiling resort’s subtle beauty.

I recently attended a party where the majority of guests were expats living in Hong Kong and Singapore, and when I told them that I lived in Ubud, the standard response was “How amazing!” I didn’t have the heart to tell them that sometimes the reality of living in ‘paradise’ isn’t always all it’s cracked up to be. In between battling terrific traffic jams and dealing with dodgy landlords, week-long Internet outages and the canine cacophony that wakes me up every morning, sometimes I just need to escape. Lucky for me the ultimate sanctuary of serenity lies not so far from my somewhat chaotic home. Perched on a hilltop high above the Ayung River Valley, Alila Ubud is just a 15-minute drive from the centre of Ubud, but it feels like a world away from the pandemonium of Ubud’s busy streets. As you turn off the main road in the village of Payangan and make your way down Alila Ubud’s kilometre-long drive, rice paddies open up on either side, coconut trees sway in the breeze and the odd kite soars high in the sky. By the time you get to the security gate, a sense of tranquillity has already set in. Alila Ubud is laid out like a traditional Balinese hillside village with stilted villas perched on the edge of a ravine and dotted throughout the sprawling grounds. At the centre you have an open-plan reception bale, the worldclass Spa Alila, the Alila Art Gallery and Alila Living Boutique. Walk towards Plantation restaurant with its towering coconut wood pillars and you’ll see steps leading down to their stunning 25-metre infinity pool with jawdropping views of the ravine and its jungle-cloaked banks. My crib for the evening is one of the Terrace Tree Villas just up the hill from the hub of the resort, and this is where I can really see the subtle beauty of Alila Ubud’s unique architecture and design. Designed by the renowned Kerry Hill Architects firm, the villas are made with smooth concrete and natural stone and topped with grass and volcanic stones to blend into the natural environment. Wooden balconies jut out amongst native trees, and the villas are arranged so that each abode has unobstructed views of the natural greenery. My villa interior features cool grey and white patterned floor tiles, an oversized daybed with batik-covered cushions, a canopied king-sized bed, and a semi-outdoor bathroom with a huge black stone bathtub set next to a bubbling water feature and open to the skies. Added touches include a tropical fruit basket, an Illy espresso machine, bathroom amenities made with Alila’s unique blend of natural botanicals, and my favourite – a gorgeous book filled with illustrations by A.A. Made Djelantik, one of Karangasem’s most charismatic princes.

I could spend hours chilling on the daybed, sipping coffee on the balcony and using the ultra-fast Wi-Fi, but it’s cocktail hour and Cabana Lounge is calling me. Set just back from the pool, Cabana Lounge is an inviting open space with soaring stone pillars and walls made from terracotta bricks arranged in geometric patterns. I order a cucumber and basil gin and tonic and watch the sky dim and flickering lights blink to life at the temple across the ravine. It’s Friday night, which means that the Spice Market is taking place upstairs at Plantation restaurant. This all-out feast is a massive spread of authentic Balinese and Indonesian dishes, so guests can fill their banana leaves high with roast suckling pig marinated in local herbs and spices, fresh mussels doused in tangy tamarind sauce, charcoal-grilled prawns and calamari, and beef rendang cooked in a rich gravy. Throughout the dinner villagers perform traditional dances set to music by a gamelan orchestra. My usual Friday night involves a few drinks out on the town, but I’m here to unwind, so I call it in early and head back to the plush pillows of my king-sized bed. I love that the staff have turned down the fluffy duvet, set the lights low and added extra touches next to the bed like a bottle of Alila’s Deep Sleep Pillow Mist made with a calming blend of French lavender and chamomile essential oils. The mist does its trick and I’m soon enjoying one of the best sleeps I’ve had in a very long time. Definitely get up early for breakfast if you can because the views of the mist curling up out of the ravine as the sun warms the treetops is simply epic. Plus you can watch monkeys cavort in the trees while the cheekier ones attempt to swipe the Balinese offerings the servers lay out. Breakfast options include freshly baked bread with homemade jams and made-to-order dishes like poached eggs with carrot, coconut and curry hollandaise sauce and cocoa pancakes with chocolate chantilly cream. Were I staying longer, I would indulge in some spa treatments, take a bicycle ride through the rice paddies, or join one of Alila’s famous experiences that include trips to the sacred hot springs, volcano trekking, and Balinese cooking classes using fresh produce grown in their organic garden. Sadly though I have to check out and return to the fray. The further I drive from this tranquil hideaway, the heavier the traffic gets and I’m already sorely missing my peaceful corner of paradise at Alila Ubud. S.M www.alilahotels.com/ubud

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BALIâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S BEST NATURAL SKINCARE

spas

Clockwise from top left: glow day spa; cocoon medical spa; body lab; w bali - seminyak; soham wellness centre.

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Katie Truman’s mind, body and spirit – and everything in-between – gets fabulously transformed as she test-runs the latest offerings in Bali’s premier spas.

It’s amazing what you can get up to in the island’s spas and salons. No mere Balinese massage, coffee bean scrubs, or floral baths, these nifty little numbers are keeping up with the latest world beauty and wellness trends and offering some seriously mind and body changing options; whether it’s a bum lift and inches zapped off your wobbly bits, your chakras cleansed, your face (and other parts) totally rejuvenated and tightened and talons glistening with Japan’s latest chrome mirror varieties. Body Lab There’s simply no messing around at Body Lab, a new aesthetic centre opened in Seminyak. Purely focused on professional anti-ageing and anti-cellulite care, with body slimming (anti cellulite) and face rejuvenation (lifting), Body Lab gets straight to the point, or rather, straight to all those nasty bags, saggy and floppy bits that increasingly afflict us. Derrière heading south to the Antarctic? Can’t budge the bulge? Ukrainian Alyona, and her experienced beauty therapists will work their magic, just like a modern-day fairyland. Their miniscule, all-white salon, with just two treatment rooms, and short, easy to follow menu of treatments and procedures sets the no-nonsense approach; body and face procedures are practically all administered by high quality equipment from Russia and the Ukraine for the latest innovative beauty techniques that promise no pain, scarring, or downtime. Single treatments are affordably priced; Body Tightening treatments cover Vacuum Roller Anti-Cellulite Massage (lifting saggy skin and eliminating fat) Muscle Stimulation Body (if you’re too lazy to go to the gym) and Infrared Blanket Therapy combined with Styx Cello Gel Body Wrapping, especially suited for those that can’t (or don’t) exercise, eliminating “orange peel” cellulite. Face Lifting and Anti-ageing covers Microcurrents, Vacuum lifting Massage, Muscle Stimulation and Ultrasound procedures; both body and face cover Radio Frequency, which miraculously stimulates new collagen and elastin, a procedure especially good for tightening skin on saggy hotspots like the upper arms. One session is beneficial, however, for max results, treatments are best administered in a series over several weeks; Body Lab offers 10 single treatments as a super saving, great value body or face package. Their latest signature is Body Sculpture Treatment Ultrasound Cavitation; non-surgical fat removal on the stomach or thighs. During each of the five sessions, the fat membrane is broken down by ultrasound and fatty acids dispatched to the lymphatic system, eliminated naturally. This fat elimination process takes a week before the next treatment; the senior therapist will measure your circumference before each treatment to check results; most clients experience two to five-centrimetres of circumference reduction after a single session. Body Lab also offers Magic Face Lift Packages and Intensive Body Packages, starring their unique Brazilian Bum treatment. We’d all like a Brazilian Bum and now we can have one (hurrah!), after a combo of Muscle Stimulation Body and Vacuum Massage gets to grip with your derrière. Keep an eye-out for Body Lab’s imminent opening of a new aesthetic clinic next door, promising even more miracles. www.facebook.com/pg/bodylab.bali

Soham Wellness Centre Petitenget’s Soham Wellness Centre stands as an ultra-modern, indoor complex devoted to wellness and fitness with facilities running to a hi-tech fitness centre with cycle room, lengthy lap pool, fight club and yoga studio. The upper floor Spa, like elsewhere, comes stylishly designed with polished concrete floors and glass walls and reveals a spacious relaxation lounge, open-plan salon and 11 dimly-lit treatment rooms. The Spa’s menu offers good value, extensive choices, with notables covering Massages that feature Royal Thai with Lukprakob, administered in a dedicated Thai massage room, Indian Ayurvedic treatments and multi-hour Rituals packages that get you access to the steam, sauna and hot and cold plunge pools on a lower level. The Spa’s stand-out however are the more under-the-radar, spiritually-inclined offerings; namely, three unique healing sessions centering on the Chakra system. These come administered by an experienced and nurturing Chakra spiritualist from the Netherlands, within a dedicated healing room, suitably candlelit, incense laden and headed-up by a Buddhist deity. With Aura Healing, your aura is purified, with blockages and unwanted energies set free from the body, mind and soul, while Ank Treatment uses an ancient Egyptian spiritual instrument to not only work on your astral body, but also on physical needs and ailments. The forte however is the totally enlightening Chakra Healing, a two-hour session whereby your mind is cleared, your chakras cleansed, unblocked and revitalized and you walk off with a brand new aura and renewed sense of well-being. And much more. When our chakras (seven centres in our bodies in which energy flows through), are lit-up or open, and bright and clean, the chakra system is balanced; cleansing the chakras is highly beneficial to maintain our body’s health, mental sanity and spirit, helps keep energy levels pure and increases intuitive ability. After a highly personal consultation, the spiritualist gently works through each area, relaying their significance and what she finds there, besides advising how to address emotional and physical challenges, even what to wear, eat and do to help maximize your potential, generate good fortune and achieve a better life. The session finishes with a ritual giving you a new aura. This isn’t for everyone, it’s not a cure-all and not a psychic session. However, the positively uplifting Chakra Healing (repeated in shorter sessions), should help you understand your body, mind and soul a whole lot better – and give your chakras a thorough spring-clean. www.sohamwellnesscenter.com W Bali – Seminyak Alongside Petitenget Beach, W Bali – Seminyak has got to be one of Bali’s most glam, ultra-contemporary and playful five-star resorts. Not surprisingly, their cuttingedge AWAY® Spa follows suit – a 1,500-square-metres ‘escape-within-an-escape’ of fabulousity that resembles an all-white spaceship, opens 24/7 and indulges with W’s signature “Whatever/Whenever” concept. Complimentary pre-treatment facilities include a decadent, guys and gals wet facility and pure oxygen mask sessions in the

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Detox Room. There’s even a fully-stocked bar. But even multi-award winners need to shake-it up, thus AWAY has recently introduced, or is in the process of, some big, bold changes on their menu. Wave bye-bye to some long-established packages (albeit golden oldies like the “Red Carpet” series remain) and say hello to some diva-worthy treats. Like all-new, Get Your Glow On theme with tailor-made treatments to nourish your Inner Glow (massage and body treatments), Outer Glow (on-demand facials and quick beauty fixes) and After Glow (post-treatment spa products from the Beauty Bar). Touch and Glow comes designed for super busy folk who still want to look fab, offering super-express, multiple body, hair and make-up options in short, sharp, allotted time sessions. New body and face treatments by Thalgo, a renowned French marine-based skincare product (its algae marine base a marvel for tightening the skin) includes six facials geared to anti-aging and firming. Signature Thalgo facial, “Prime Time” irons-out wrinkles and increases the skin’s elasticity and resilience, improves microcirculation and intensively moistens the skin (aided by intense finger massage movements), for wow factor, plumped-up results. Other Spa-tacular new treatments specifically focus on types, like Mums to Be, What Men Want, Pre-Bridal gals, and party animals – any treatments between 11pm to 9am are rewarded with a 25 percent discount, thanks to AWAY’s “Midnight Delight” promo. And those too sidetracked at W’s bar and pool. If you can’t tear yourself away from W’s WET zone and three-tiered beachfront pools, help is on hand, literally, with Escape Cabana, a simple beachfront extension of AWAY Spa, set on palm tree-studded lawns, nearby. The dedicated daytime spa menu offers new Asian-influenced massages and facials, including “Flirty Feet and Martini” – an invigorating foot massage followed by a well-deserved Martini. Meanwhile, “Pamper Yourself @ WET” provides mini-indulgences on poolside daybeds running to pressure point massage – just raise your hand! AWAY Spa also comes to you at W Lounge – the innovative lobby bar – with mini-pampering sessions on your bar stool. How very W. www.wretreatbali.com/awayspa Glo Day Spa and Salon It seems every man and his dog is setting-up shop in Berawa-Canggu, arguably Bali’s nuclear hot ‘hood right now, and Glo Day Spa and Salon is no exception, recently launching their super-chic flagship branch in Berawa. But one-stop Glo (“for vanity and sanity”) is no cutesy novice, established 12 years ago by an Australian spa industry professional. Pioneering Glo was the first urban-style spa-salon on the island, now with Glo branches in Lembongan, Sanur and Seminyak, offering an extensive array of grooming staples and pampering body treatments, delivered by a long-running, well-trained team with international standards and coolest imported products. Bigger and better Glo Canggu comes designed with a modern colonial elegance: downstairs, the hair salon, lounge, a boutique retailing the latest products (including Young Blood Mineral make-up), and state of the art, spray tan cubicle, Glo the first in Bali to offer this – with Australian top-notch spray regimes – and now offering an express 20-minute session. Upstairs, there are five treatment rooms and swanky mani-pedi salon looking onto the street. Beverages from the comprehensive drinks menu, including Australian wines, can be indulged during treatments; they can even send-in for Champers, especially popular for pre-bridal, wedding and celebratory occasions invariably hosted here. With the swanky Canggu flagship, besides Glo’s knack of keeping abreast of all latest, advanced beauty products and techniques, comes a seriously expanded menu. Too much to recount here, but new stand-outs include the gent’s luxe Barber Shop and Vitaman for Men treatments, featuring super-effective Vitaman Sports Massage; the extraordinary new Ellebana eyelash lift and two new advanced, anti-aging facials from wonder product, Pevonia, Stem Cell Phyto-elite and Micro Retinol, for outstanding results. Among a handful of new hair treatments, the signature, Opalex is a gamechanger for blonde colouring. Need a beauty overhaul, but strapped for time? Well

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opt for a threesome! Er, I mean, three therapists simultaneously working on you with some hot new signatures. First, sensational Warm Stone Hair Revival, lasting 90 blissful minutes: a double shampoo and lengthy scalp rub, hair smothered with an intensely moisturizing aloe vera crème bath and wrapped in a hot towel, with therapist Gerry massaging my shoulders and neck with outrageously soothing hot stones. Meanwhile, two therapists proceed with a full-on Spa Mani and Pedi, before I’m under the hair steamer for 20 minutes for deep conditioning and my arms and hands are massaged. Once the crème hair bath is rinsed away, I’m indulged with Glo’s trademark Blow Dry and an application of Gel Chrome Mirror Nails in gold – the latest fashion trend from Japan and a first for Bali – for mega-strong, yet super glossy talons. Finally, I’m off to Glo’s new Brow Bar, for some expert eyebrow styling and a glass of wine. Phew, I could get used to this. www.glospabali.com Cocoon Medical Spa Australian-run Cocoon Medical Spa is Bali’s premier international cosmetic and antiaging skin centre, offering the latest innovations in non-invasive skin treatments, including anti-aging, cosmetic and wellness, but committed to a long-term, holistic approach; they integrate wellness treatments, such as Detox, Colon hydrotherapy and Vitamin IV, with their high octane cosmetic treatments and cosmetic packages are designed for longer-lasting visible results and holistic affect. Cocoon deliver results driven, international quality treatments at competitive prices, combined with advanced technologies and qualified doctors. No wonder they’ve won a swag of international awards, including “Best Medical Spa 2015,”at the IMTJ Awards, London. Ground-breaking Cocoon are yet again ahead of the pack, the first in Bali to introduce QUANTA Laser from Italy, the next generation of state-of-the-art laser systems, leading to some advanced new laser treatments – good news for those seeking alternatives to invasive surgery but still demanding results! Signature star is Quanta LASER 3D Skin Rejuvenation, Italy’s number #1 laser favoured by the world’s most beautiful models and garnering rave reviews in the beauty industry – now exclusively available at Cocoon. LASER 3D is long-term skin rejuvenation for full face (alternatively, chest, neck or hands), going deep and targeting different epidermis layers, according to skin type and areas of concern, stimulating new collagen production for excellent and visibly beautiful skin results: firming, smoothing and vast improvement of skin tone and texture and reduced pigmentation, acne scars, vascular lesions, sun damage, fine lines and wrinkles and other nasties. This revolutionary procedure lasts around two hours (combined with LED and Platelet Rich Plasma procedures for max results); compared to the more drastic equivalents– although expect Hollywood-style hideaways from the sun, sea and make-up for a week or so. Noticeable results kicks-in around three weeks later, with long lasting collagen production for up to twelve months. Other stand-out Quanta Laser procedures cover Diva Tight, Vagina Rejuvenation; a gift from the Gods for mum’s, and those enduring the menopausal women or medical conditions down under. This revolutionary, non-surgical, “walk-in, walk-out” vaginal procedure regenerates cells and tightens, but is virtually painless and requires little downtime. Yay. There’s also ND YAG Laser for specifically treating age spots, pigmentation, rosacea and more, plus lasers for vein and tattoo removals. Not so keen on lasers? Plenty of other goodies available, including award-winning, super-popular, Naked Skin Package – not so hard core as Laser 3D, but still achieving great results, with fresher, firmer and hydrated glowing skin, positively encouraging you to ditch the make-up. As part of Cocoon’s holistic experience, there’s a new massage menu and for this, new treatment rooms upstairs. www.cocoonmedicalspa.com

fashion freestyle

www.biasagroup.com

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www.paulropp.com

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www.kykullo.com

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www.bambooblonde.com

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fashion freestyle

www.johnhardy.com/visit-us-in-bali

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www.tsuites.com

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fashion freestyle

Balinese pro-surfer Dyah Rahayu www.atlaspearls.com.au

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www.deuscustoms.com

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healing

mystical retreats thomas white eagle offers a range of healing retreats and mystical tours in bali, and around the world, writes alison bone.

Once upon a time a holiday in Bali meant catching a wave, getting a suntan and taking home some pirate DVDs. These days visitors to the island are just as likely to catch a yoga class, get healed and take home a new lease on life. The age of spiritual holidays has dawned. Describing himself as a “Holistic healer, shaman and mystical expert,” Europeanborn, world traveller, Thomas White Eagle offers a range of healing retreats and mystical tours in Bali as well as various locations around the world, each chosen for their unique energy and beauty. “It’s about providing a new way to go on holidays,” says Thomas, “a chance to rest and have fun, but also an opportunity to heal and to regain your strength, vital energies and purpose in life.” His healing retreats vary, some are focused on meditation and yoga, while others on more mystical practices. The overall goal he explains is, “To incorporate healing into one’s modern lifestyle, taking a regular break from the demands of hectic city life. ” But while his retreats draw on traditional spiritual practices, he is quick to point out that they take place in modern and pleasant surrounds with plenty of creature comforts. So rather than sweating it out in the Amazonian jungle in order to have a mystical experience, or forging deep into the wilds of Peru to join a traditional medicine ceremony, you can do it right here in Bali. “You could say it’s a spiritual luxury holiday retreat,” says Thomas. “We stay at beautiful modern villas and then use ancient practices – normally used by monks and indigenous tribes – to heal and grow spiritually and connect with the divine.” Mystical retreats draw on techniques from Hindu and Buddhism practices, as well as Amazonian and North American Indian traditions. Thomas explains that he also likes to tap into the energy of any given place, so that a retreat in Bali may include visits to some of the island’s revered temples as well as blessings from Balinese priests, or maybe even trips to see dolphins. “Dolphins are high vibrational beings, contact with them is a great boost into raising one’s frequency,” he says. Organised retreats are small and intimate so that people will feel comfortable and at ease. Running from seven to 10 days, a healing retreat may include a special diet and a series of rituals and practices, from ceremonies to spiritual workshops and meditations. “It’s a great way to dedicate time to yourself and concentrate your energy,” says Thomas. He also provides shorter weekend retreats for those who are too busy to commit to a whole week, or just want to get a feel for what it’s all about. “I would say my retreats are great for those who wish to get closer to spiritual practice, to yoga, and meditation, but in a comfortable manner so that they can understand and not be repelled by something new, scary and weird. He adds, “Those who have some spiritual practice in place can also find more depth. In the end you will receive what you are ready for.” Some of the benefits of retreats are described as “Dissolving emotional blockages, greater mental and emotional clarity, reducing stress, revealing pathways to a more meaningful, happy and harmonious

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life, enhanced openness to spirituality and improving interpersonal relationships.” Bali was chosen as a retreat destination for its “special energy,” says Thomas, adding that it’s a “convenient and affordable get away for people from Singapore and Australia, while for Europeans it’s a dream exotic destination.” He also voices concerns that the island is, “Being contaminated by low vibration tourism and believes that by holding retreats here we can change the energy of the island and convert it into a destination that people choose for beauty and spirituality.” Other exotic retreat locations around the world have also been handpicked for their “Incredible and pure energy and unbeatable beauty,” and include tropical islands in Thailand, the Mayan coast of Mexico, the rolling hills of Tuscany, the holy town of Rishikesh on the banks of the Ganges and the ancient cities of Prague and Marrakesh. As well as organised retreats, Thomas offers his company Dharma Mystical Tours which essentially allow people to customise their own retreat. “Some people want to combine ancient temples tours with healing practices like yoga,” he says, “some prefer to go sailing on the Greek islands and do meditations, others want to do trekking and shamanic rituals in places like Peru or Italy. They are normally couples or small groups of friends or even families with grown up children, all of them wish to get closer to mysticism in a safe and guided manner and I make it easy for them.” There is also an option for corporate healing workshops which are designed to incorporate healthy living-working practices into a corporate environment and to motivate key employees. This may include energy cleansing, business astrology and rituals for business success. Managers and directors facing a mid life crises can also receive guidance, healing and one on one sessions. “I can help people understand the process of leaving the old behind in order to emerge as a new more successful individual. The process also helps to ensure the proper work-life-spiritualitycreativity balance is well maintained to ensure a healthy life path.” Thomas believes that “Healers are here to help people heal the past so that as a race we can live happier, more beautiful lives connected with nature and the divine. The ancient practices are those in line with the guidance of a spiritual way of life that people once had. Now, because of our fast-paced consumer and resultsdriven way of life, we have forgotten. It is possible and in fact necessary,” he adds, “to combine those two ways and not reject any side, as these are the times we live in, and we are all spiritual beings subject to the Laws of Creation.” For more information please visit . www.thomaswhiteeagle.com dharmamysticaltours.blogspot.com email: divinaconsulting@gmail.com Whatsapp +41 7672 68370

energy is all around.

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health

back-up plans Dustin Humphrey has had more live action than a love child of Bear Grylls and Kate Moss. he thanks one insurance man for gettng him out of multiple scrapes – Richard Flax, now with igh. some of Bali’s biggest names trust international global health.

The work hard + play hard genius who redefined surf photography and created Canggu’s Deus – Temple of Enthusiasm loves nothing more than custom motorcycles, remote travel and sensational surf. His glamorously dangerous life is enough to freeze the blood of most health insurance companies but one local outfit – International Global Health (IGH) – has met Dustin’s dire demands front on. Bali’s long time health care guru Richard Flax, who recently launched IGH as the upgraded version 2.0 of his long time health insurance company Third Millennia, holds the bragging rights to Dustin’s life. “There are so many times that Richard and his company saved my skin that it’s crazy,” says the swashbuckling legend. Dustin’s most recent brush with death was in Java. “I was racing motocross and broke both legs and shattered my foot while my passport was being processed in Bali. Richard somehow found a doctor in a small place in Solo who is hugely respected and looks after athletes. “He had me medevac’d from Bogor to this bone guru surgeon who patched me up. From there I went to Bali, collected my passport and flew to Sydney where I have a history from when I broke both ankles skate boarding in Lombok. Richard sorted that one out too,” Dustin said. The epic photographer was also once evacuated from a remote Indian village after his car flew off a cliff and landed tail up. “I fractured three vertebrae in that one and Richard got me to where I needed to be in Mumbai from a small shanty town,” Dustin said. Given his glamorously dangerous life Dustin is a fan of quality health insurance and will migrate his hyper utilized policy from Third Millennia to IGH. “I can call Richard from anywhere in the world and say: ‘Hey, dude, I’m in a bit of trouble ‘ and he gets everything sorted. He’s been doing this for me for 17 years. I go with just about everything he says about health and insurance,” Dustin said. Richard Flax is the man behind International Global Health (IGH), which is a new health insurance cover curated to the unique circumstance found, such as head injuries from falling coconuts to tumbling in to dodgy ditches. 160

Richard is a surfer, documentary maker and co-founder of Sumba’s famous Nihiwatu Resort and he knows more than a thing or two about medical disasters. He led the immediate response to the first Bali bombing and founded Third Millennia (TM) health insurance. Now IGH – a bespoke insurer with the backing of Australia’s largest insurers QBE – will supersede TM “QBE condones IGH’s unusual approach because it makes financial sense and delivers an outstanding service,” said Richard Flax. Third Millennia’s client base will migrate to IGH and Dustin will be among the first to make the switch and so will Bali’s super yacht maestro Richard Lofthouse, who has also experienced Richard’s unique talents. “I was out of the country when our general manager of Compass Fresh, our online supermarket, had a motorcycle accident when he hit a pile of black sand dumped on the road on a notoriously dark and blind bend. Our GM understands riding in Bali but one second he was going around a corner, the next he was in Siloam hospital,” he said. After more than a decade on the island, Lofthouse has learnt that arrival at a hospital can signify the start of some new issues. “This is exactly why all of our expat team and some of our top local team are insured with Richard’s company.” After the accident, medics at Siloam wanted to do invasive and outdated surgery. “We told our insurance company of our concerns and they took over and immediately more scans where taken, revealing multiple skull and cheek fractures and required very complex reconstructive surgery.” The patient was evacuated to Singapore. “The reconstructive surgery to his face was amazing and perfectly executed. Of course the costs were higher but our insurance covered them, no questions asked. “We have the best insurance we can possibly get for our team. You never know how good your insurance is until you need to use it. Richard’s company where there with us all the way,” he said. www.internationalglobalhealth.com

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astroyak

moodofthemoment By Dr Deepak | astro-deepak@usa.net | www.astronlp.com | Skype: drdeepakvidmar

Planets in the 5th House emphasize self-expression and risk taking. Trumpâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s chart having a Mars transit over his Mars on the Ascendant. He has always been a gambler and risk taker. Saturn transit over his Moon gives depression. Yes, believe it, someone with all his money and power can be depressed. His kind of depression is called agitated depression. He has to get angry (again) and blow something up to get out of feeling bad.

aries Strong energies to express yourself, to communicate who you are, to compete, be first and to win. To others you may not seem like a team player, but what they do not realize is that you bring power, passion and pride to the collective. Your power empowers everyone else if they are awake enough to feel.

libra This is really a juicy time to feel happy and optimistic, have relationships that arouse feelings of both passion and pain, and to feel the kundalini energy that is at the core of your life. Sudden unexpected turns of good fortune are possible, particularly on your birthday. It is a good time to be part of the team. You are not alone.

taurus

Yahoo, you are having a Jupiter aspect and this is Mr. Good Guy of the Zodiac. He brings good luck and good fortune, particularly at this time in relationships and others in general. Good people come into your life and good things happen to the people already in your life. Happens every 12 years

scorpio

gemini Stability and commitment with old friends and freshness and uniqueness with new friends the likes of which you have not had before. Lots to talk about. In many ways your ego is like an ocean now with your waves touching on many shores and the fish within you finding home wherever they turn.

sagittarius It is Nature time now and the trees and leaves of grass help you bond with the Universe. Good to walk in the park or take the trail to the hills and valleys of your inner self. The paradox is that there is such a joy inside at the same time distractions of success and recognition will be offered to you on the outside.

cancer

Your intelligence is an emotional intelligence with many currents seen and unseen. There is a leap in your ability now to see the unconscious forces which are shaping your life and it is thanks to any struggle going on in your life that has not yet been resolved. Struggle is good; it helps you see the purpose of life.

capricorn

leo Active time in your life involving relationships, being busy and active, and learning/ communicating about yourself. Now the pattern turns to money and resources and making sure they are on a solid and practical basis. Not a good idea at this time to take chances with your resources or go for get rich schemes.

aquarius Time to take the Trip. Good time to throw it all to the wind, burn your bridges, and go somewhere you have never been to see just how green the grass can be. Good to take a partner with you or to meet new friends on the way. Long time short time, it doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t matter. Let your destination become your home.

virgo

pisces It is a time of many, many different people coming into and out of your life and it will be both magical and an illusion. Some will try to teach you but the words will not make any sense. Some will try to motivate your lazy butt, but you are at peace. Some will love you and it will be good if you show them the way.

The Neptune transit opposite Virgo has been teaching you that intuition, wholeness and going beyond what words can express can give you meaningful insight. The Way of the Mystic, All-Is-One. Now Mercury is transiting and you are super logical more than before. They are not incompatible, just separate. It is part of your birthday present.

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There is change coming into your life and in a very good way. The more you are open to others and can be seen, the more you will be filled with good energies that expand you and help you express the uniqueness of yourself in ways that will be received. It is a lucky time and it is okay to take a risk.

Maybe all your life you have been a practical person whose job was to make things work in the world only to discover now that nothing works in the world. It all falls down. It is all maya and illusion on the outside and you might laugh when you discover your dreams and intuitions are what is real and solid. You have to be alone to know that.