Oh Woman

women september 2020

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B I A S A G R O U P. C O M B A L I S E M I N YA K - S A N U R - U B U D | J A K A R TA K E M A N G

Koh & I nka William s

www.theyakmag.com

women issues sep/oct/nov 2020

The Yak Magazine Sophie Digby, Nigel Simmonds, Agustina Ardie Creative Director Stuart Sullivan Sales & Marketing Amik Suhartin Production Manager Istiana Graphic Designers Irawan Zuhri, Ida Bagus Adi Accounting Julia Rulianti Distribution Made Marjana, Kadek Eri Publisher PT. L.I.P Licence AHU/47558/AH/01/01/2011 Advertising Enquiries Tel: (+62 361) 766 539, 0851 0043 1804, 0851 0043 1805, 0851 0043 1796 info@theyakmag.com sales@theyakmag.com Snail Mail & Walk Ins The Yak Magazine, Kompleks Perkantoran Simpang Siur Square, Jl. Setia Budi, Kuta, Bali 80361, Indonesia Magazine printed by Gramedia Outdoor assets by Supaprint

on the Cover: elizabeth taylor by andy warhol.

OK you know the drill. No part of this publication may be copied or reproduced electronically or otherwise without prior permission from the Publisher.

Opinions expressed are those of the authors not the Publisher. The Publisher reserves the right to refuse advertising that does not comply with the magazine's design criteria. The Yak will not be held responsible for copyright infringements on images supplied directly by advertisers and/or contributors.

Check us out online, we’re awesome (if we do say so ourselves). Peace.

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contents 20

brands

Susanna Perini

24

Janice Lee Ripley

26

Jane Hitchcock

30

Happy Salma

34

Caroline Dumergue

interwho

interwho

interwho

PEOPLE

36

Feminista

44

Kelly Tandiono

feature

interwho

108 8

46

people

Maria Agnes

48

Luna Maya

50

Samanfah Wilson

54

Erika Pena

56

Naomi Samara

interwho

people

PEOPLE

INTERVIEW

58

Hanalei Swan

60

Valerie Von Sobel

people

people

146

62

Farah Quinn

64

Fahrani Empel

68

Ozlem Esen

70

Nina Hadinata And Stephanie Vermaas

72

Melati & Isabel Wisjen

people

PEOPLE

INTERVIEW

duoview

change

74

Elora

76

Sukma Nirmala

84

INTERVIEW

people

78

SUNBRELLA® IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF GLEN RAVEN, INC.

S U N B R E L L A . C O M / YA K

contents 78

Femke den Haas

80

Sally Bloomfield

82

Muso Lady Flic

84

Mary Manaka

86

Deniz Reno

causes

people

sounds around

people

sounds around

88

Venus Pratova

90

Georgia Sutherland

people

PEOPLE

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92

Kelly Ariella

94

Polly Purser

96

Jyoti Parenco

98

Sayang Ropp

102

people

people

members of the cloth

members of the cloth

members of the cloth

Amanda Lestari

104

Trudi Christensen

106

Anggun

PEOPLE

sounds around

160

108

Ariel Leve

110

Diana Rosa

112

Emmelyn Gunawan

114

Nehanda

116

Whulandary Herman

118

Belinda Betz

120

Andi Yulianty

62

PEOPLE

PEOPLE

people

people

people

people

people

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SEASTEM MARINE ESSENCE AGE-DEFYING FORMULA WITH FORTIFYING MARINE NUTRIENTS 100% NATURAL INGREDIENTS B A L I

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B A N D U N G

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B E K A S I

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J A K A R T A

S H O P O NLI NE AT S E NS AT I A . CO M

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S U R A B AYA

contents 134

Kukuh Zuttion

136

Alexia Blake

122

people

people

people

Aliza Salviandra

124

Marie Schmidt

126

Lisa Crosswhite

128

Gail Elliot

130

Irma Yasandikusuma

132

Helen Milne

people

people

people

PEOPLE

people

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150

Ludovica Virga

152

Camilla Chevillot

138

interview

interwho

people

Jehan Khaleda

140

Natasha Gan

142

Suki Sukma

144

Holy Indradjaja

146

Kezia Alexandra

148

Audry Akman

interwho

interview

interwho

PEOPLE

154

Ines Katamso

156

Yasmin Suteja

158

interview

interview

interview

Christina Iskandar

160

Mel Palummo

162

Belinda

166

Marco Fantyn Alfonzo

170

Novie One

people

interview

interview

interview

PEOPLE

92

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brands oh susanna.

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biasa - it's one of bali's best known brands and it keeps getting better, writes sarah douglas. photo: lukas vrtilek.

SUSANNA Perini sits comfortably in her skin. In the gallery space above Biasa+, the former Biasa ArtSpace, her office overlooks a collection of art, menswear, kaftans, vintage accessories and homewares.

The bi-weekly market is on today and the gallery space and the garden behind it is alive with music, food and friends, many of them spanning two generations, even three. Some of the familiar faces have been in Susanna’s life for many years. Having a space that welcomes them all, a living space that reacts with the people who use it, is a large part of her success. Everything is connected; it’s always been that way.

It is 20 years since BIASA first opened in a tiny space across the road from the current boutique and we reminisce over a journey that has impacted on her both personally and professionally.

In 1994, Jalan Raya Seminyak was only beginning its transformation from a jungle track to the road we know now.

Susanna began her life in Bali as the partner of the man of many colours, Paul Ropp, who would become the father of her children, her partner for many years and a mentor she values.

“I grew up around the fashion business in Italy. I found a very different way of working in Bali and I had to adapt. I met Paul when I came to Bali for a photo shoot for an Italian magazine (her lifelong hobby is photography). I was producing a small line called Zero Zero at the time we met and I fell in love with Bali,” she explains.

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brands

Things were vastly different in Bali in the early ‘90s. The spaces that house BIASA and Biasa+ were factories and workshops then. Even in those days Susanna had a keen sense of design and art and it was only a matter of time until she wanted something that reflected her own vision.

Tomorrow’s Antiques supplied some of the world’s biggest retailers at the time. Susanna worked on the collections and Paul created thousands of accessories and the textiles that still form the backbone of his business.

Together they had a successful business but Susanna started to feel at odds with the corporate world of retail.

“Working with large overseas companies, I started to feel uncomfortable about the disconnect between the buyers and the producers. They didn’t care if India was experiencing major flooding, if the order was late they cancelled it, despite the fact that thousands of hours had gone into it, that entire families relied on those orders just to eat. If something was wrong or late, they simply rejected it,” she says.

“I wanted to create something that was more sustainable, that supported the people who were producing things and I began to think about a brand that supported a different ethic, something much more personal.”

At the time that Susanna started to tire of the politics of the big brands, she also saw an opening for a very different kind of retail store on the main street in Seminyak where she lived. A chance to design, produce and retail her own collection.

“I had produced an order for a Japanese company, they were very strict about the tiniest rejects, that stock is what I opened the first store with. From there we began to design original garments that would represent our first range for BIASA. At that time, I had a friend and collaborator, Hakama.

The only fashion retailer on that stretch of the road was called Baik Baik (Baik means good, Baik Baik is very good). He jokingly suggested we should call the store BIASA.” The rest is history.

Susanna wanted to set herself apart from the productions created

by Tomorrow’s Antiques. She moved away from colour, she downsized the productions and she collaborated with people she shared a creative connection with her. This has become a pattern she has repeated through the years of BIASA design and when establishing BIASA ArtSpace and Biasa+.

“Looking back I see how important the connections are, one thing leads to another. I learned over the years that there are a lot of forces that come into play. Projection is part of the manifestation and so I stand here now and ask is this how I pictured it would work out? The answer is yes and no. There have been a few miscalculations along the way, but largely yes,” Susanna says.

Biasa ArtSpace was originally designed as a retail space but by that time the road was so crowded with shops and cafes, she decided to rethink it. In early 2000 a group of friends used the space for an exhibition and Susanna

officially launched Biasa ArtSpace in 2005, a time when Indonesia was welcoming a new era in its political landscape.

“When the Suharto era drew to a close, artists who formally had no voice experienced a freedom they hadn’t known before. It was a very creative period for contemporary art and Indonesian artists needed a space, the energy was high, they were just beginning to spread their wings. Now of course, the Indonesian contemporary art scene is world famous,” she says.

Yet some of those who entered her world during that time remained to collaborate. One of them was the photographer and artist, Matteo Basilé, who exhibited at Biasa ArtSpace and went on to collaborate with Susanna on the iconic campaigns that propelled BIASA’s reputation beyond Bali. The idea of using real life models came into focus through those campaigns and that experience led to her latest campaign.

BIASA’s current campaign is the result of another collaboration with Indonesian photographer and artist, Davy Linggar. Susanna’s vision came full circle by using young people who represent the next generation in Bali. Many of them she has known since they were children, growing up alongside her own two girls.

Twenty years is a lifetime in the fashion industry. Petite, intelligent and forceful, Susanna has created spaces that reflect her personal tastes yet also allow her room to be creative, to encourage growth and provide the greatest luxury of all, the ability to change her mind and her direction.

With retail outlets in Seminyak, Ubud, Sanur and Jakarta, BIASA is a brand that offers something quite unique and is well known beyond Bali.

“BIASA is about affordable elegance, the clothes are not constricted or forced, the people who wear it remain themselves. I ask myself can everyone wear it and still feel special? Yes, because no two people will wear it in the same way,” she says.

Her latest project is still a work in progress, at BIASA+. She remains committed to promoting art and artists, wherever they come from and this will form the basis of BIASA+ as it grows and morphs, as have all her projects.

There is nothing static about BIASA, the collections, the retail spaces, the collaborations or the art. Her focus is on working together with people who share a vision, inspire her and move her forward.

“BIASA is a container for me, my connection with creativity, it’s the reason behind much of what I do. What matters to me are the connections I’ve made with genial minds, unique people who don’t follow the norm, I consider them visionary and as I look back I realize more and more the impact they have made on my life and the business,” Susanna says.

Personally and professionally, Susanna has been moved by all she has experienced and the people and events that have brought her to this point, another reason this current campaign resonates so strongly for her; it’s about looking forward and looking back. It comes back to the creative connections she has made and those she has yet to make. One suspects there is a lot more to come. www.biasagroup.com

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timeless style: biasa campaigns through the years

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InterWho

Janice Janice Lee Ripley, the woman behind Bali flower outfit Bloomz, is a veritable Mary Poppins.

Except that she wants us to watch her posies die. Photo: Yaeko Masuda.

Janice, why flowers?

For the time being, there is no better way for me to integrate different ideas of cultural beauty and art, natural beauty and my creative sensibility. This has been a passion of mine for decades.

What’s your favourite?

I am fickle. I long for flowers which are not available at the moment…I miss the scents of paper whites or narcissists, the jumbo monster sunflowers of Northern California, long-stemmed French tulips and boughs of dogwood, quince and magnolias. Actually, I am completely content with the flowers that surround me here…the pink gingers, gardenia and branches of guava fruits. And my all-time favourite anywhere that is available here: the longiflorium lily. The trumpet-shaped flower gives off a perfume so sweet and divine. They are pure grace. And I love homegrown lilacs…

Where do your blooms come from?

I am committed to locally grown flowers. And foliage. So our first choice is flowers grown in Bali. They are brought in daily from Tabanan, Bedugul and Karangasem. Next are the farms in Java, East Java and Bandung…north of Jakarta. We import from Holland for special requests. The quality and variety of locally grown flowers has excelled dramatically since I first opened shop three years ago in Ubud.

Where do you come from? And how did you end up in Bali?

I’m a New Yorker. Migrated to California where I worked on a Master’s degree at the San Francisco Art Institute. During both undergraduate and graduate schools I worked in fabulous floral shops, a creative vortex of people, materials and challenges.

Should we call you a florist? It seems slightly insulting…

Sure, go ahead…while working with many talented designers over the years, we would always joke about this “florist” label. It can conjure up some pretty bad floral concepts. Bloomz’ customers and clients know the difference, when they walk through our doorways they experience another dimension, far from the conventional…

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Flowers are attached to smells that evoke memories… what’s your earliest memory of flowers?

Ah, yes the olfactory sense…most potent for memories!

Christmas, the pine needles…we had a huge tree, it would be dark and cold outside, a New York snowy winter and inside the smell of pine and warm lights. And in Summer I played with the lily of the valley stalks just outside our kitchen door.

Did you learn to love blooms from anyone in your family?

I loved playing with flowers from early on. Some of my friends got in trouble for jumping fences and getting soaked and muddy playing in the brook near our house…I got in trouble for picking all of our next door neighbour’s hydrangeas and rhododendrons. And my grandmother loved to arrange flowers for holiday dinners…but I really learned about love of flowers, which is a discipline really, from my mentors, co-workers and designers over the years. The care of these magical natural critters is an ongoing process of cutting stems, filling water buckets, removing leaves, giving them proper support and enough space to breathe…God, they sound like pets…the phrase ‘labour of love’ comes to mind…

What’s the most important part of your work?

Seeing, feeling the relationships among the blossoms, branches, vessels and environment they are ultimately to be placed in; creating the unexpected…that’s the poetic aspect. The practical aspect is important as well…logistics, logistics…how, when, where, how much.

Are all florists cut from the same jib?

No, essentially not. There seems to be two camps: inspired and industrial. Both are hardworking though and have dirt under their fingernails.

What’s the most elaborate design you have ever created?

Elaborate? Well! Do you want to know the most labourintensive or most awe-inspiring? Because sometimes the most beautiful things are created in an inspired instant – which incidentally is why I refrained from working with flowers for 20 years. I needed to develop a creative maturity, which involved executing an idea, developing it, then making it concrete over time: the jewelry designing

and fabrication was perfect for that. It can take months in collaboration with the smiths, carvers and beaders to get to a final work. It involves a kind of discipline, which flowers did not demand of me. I now have both modes of creativity at my disposal…got my legs, so to speak. So, the most awe-inspiring work comes in quiet moments and is then transported to a client’s dining table, awaiting guests to arrive at sunset. My shops are too elaborate, one friend admonished! Stop making art installations as gorgeous as they are and sell your jewelry in there darlin’! Something tourists and the non-flower people can take with them!

So, now Ubud has both florals and gems…romance layered on romance. Soon to show up in Petitenget as well.

Do you have time for any other passions?

Absolutely. An ongoing pursuit of eastern philosophies, Sanskrit language studies, Chinese brush painting, cooking and my art studio has large charcoal drawings of nautilus shells in various stages of completion plastered on the walls…I love Bali dogs, travel…should I go on?

What’s your view of supermarket flowers?

They reflect the collective consciousness of the masses and the industrialisation of the flower. My work does not appeal to the masses.

What country does flowers best?

Each culture brings a different flavour of beauty to the craft. It’s not about the country of origin, but the interpretation of the essentials of design and soul being expressed by the floral artist. It takes a bit of genius to create fresh and original bouquets.

Do you ever say thank you to your flowers?

All the time! I am stunned mostly. Surrounded by these beauties and with the wonderful people who work with me. I could – would – never do this without the Balinese and Javanese people who staff my shops and bring us the flowers, through rain, heat, earthquakes. This is a great privilege.

Can you tell us something we don’t know about flowers?

They die so beautifully…we should all spend time seeing how the expire. www.bloomzflowers.com

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hair by toni & guy.

interwho

christina iskandar meets jane hitchcock, Bali-based American fashion model and the fabulous face of campaigns then and now. photo faz kashani.

Jane your remarkable career began at the tender age of 14 when you were chosen as one of two girls for a scholarship to train at the school of Balanchine, New York City Ballet. Do tell us how you were then introduced to modeling?

Several times photographers stopped me in the street and said I should be a model. A male dancer at my school told me I needed to go to a studio to have pictures taken and he suggested one and took me there. At the reception the lady asked me if I had an agency . . . I said no so she called Wilhelmina Agency who had just started and only had four models on their books. She was very excited and I was working full time after only two weeks of being signed.

She had a press agency and used me to promote the agency . . . so I got a lot of publicity worldwide and could work anywhere in the world at age 14. I became very famous very quickly in the business. I was doing big advertising, high fashion like Vogue, Harper's Bazaar and Elle as well as teen campaigns.

Wilhelmina, who was a supermodel of that time, gracing something like 50 covers, trained me on how to be a professional model. I was at the top but she wouldn't let me have the top rate because I was only at the beginning of my career and I had to earn my dues. After three years I moved to Eileen Ford who is a real hero in the business and also cared for me very much, she was a mother hen to all the girls.

Did you always want to be a model?

Well it’s the dream of many girls, myself included, but being from Alabama I never thought it was possible. I was focusing on ballet and it was my luck that I was propelled out of the norm into a life of dreams coming true.

How different is modeling today to back when you were at your peak?

Today they don’t take as much time getting the shot just right. The world has been in financial crisis since the oil shortage happened in the ‘70s and advertisers haven’t had as much money to spend, so now they want every thing as quickly and as cheap as possible. Before there were huge budgets

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interwho

and if the photographer wasn’t satisfied with the shots, we sometimes had as many as three re-shoots . . . it was really about going for perfection and achievement of the concept they had in mind for a campaign and since there was no Photoshop or digital cameras . . . it was much more involved technically and took much more time. Just setting up the shot often took an hour or two getting the light right.

We usually had two hours in the dressing room and needed every minute of it.

You were interviewed by the legendary Calvin Klein . . . tell us what sticks out in memory for you and that interview?

I've worked with Calvin throughout my career and at 40 he decided the top models who were now older represented his clientele and was excited to use them. We were all in shock to find out somebody wanted to use us at 40 or even 50 at that time. So he and Steven Meisel put us back on the pedestal and gave us careers when we thought it was all over for us. Nowadays there are models having fabulous careers into their 90s, so that means I have 30 more years of fun . . . I do love playing dress-up.

You have been Bali-based for how long now?

I've been here 13 years.

What campaigns have you worked on in Bali?

With great thanks to you, Christina, launching my career again here with all your enthusiasm to encourage Nico Perez to do a shoot using a woman over 50, was an outstanding campaign for me with a huge billboard on Jalan Oberoi and beautiful adds in The Yak magazine. I've gone on to work with Federico Gioli, Niluh Djelantik, Grazia and Paul Ropp, to name a few.

You are now 60 years of age, something that I find very hard to believe . . . what is your daily diet, and the question every woman wants to know, what's your secret?

I try to eat healthy, not too much fried food, sweets, pasta, rice or bread but allow myself to sometimes as I don’t think its good to completely deprive yourself of things you like. I just try to be moderate in those things and of course try to eat fresh healthy things as much as possible.

Exercise is always a struggle to keep up regularly for me but what I try to do is use life to exercise, like walking up steps even the same ones several times.

If you could give advice to a younger you about modeling, what would you say?

I would say you have to really love modeling and love photography. You need an outgoing type of personality to excel and also be professional.

Make sure you arrive on time, bring what they ask, do what your agency advises you, and love the adventure.

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F L A G S H I P S T O R E N OW O P E N I N S E M I N YA K - B A L I

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CO U N T E R S AT I N T E R N AT I O N A L D E PA R T U R E L O U N G E

Qu es ti o n s interwho

happy salma is full of life, motivated and inspirational, writes andrew e. hall.

The world’s a wonky old place but once in a while you get to meet someone whose energy and enthusiasm can make a believer out of you.

Belief that maybe things are going to work out okay after all.

Indonesian actress, model and filmmaker, Happy Salma, is such a person – she’s a very cool lady with a great story.

Happy was born in Sukabumi, Java, at some point in the past (obviously, and in respect of the fact that a woman’s age is none of our business). One of her fondest childhood memories occurred when she and her Girl Guide (Pramuka) friends were having a sleepover at their school. Happy’s dad arrived at the school on his Vespa in the evening with a home cooked meal (her favourite) – concerned that his daughter had been chatting too much and not eating enough.

He stipulated that the food was only for her . . . but I suspect she shared it anyway.

“I’ll never forget about that,” Happy says.

“My father was very strict and insisted on the values of honesty and fairness . . . of being a good person . . . and when he came to the school I was surprised and saw that he cared very much.”

He obviously led by example because when he discovered corrupt activities in the company he worked for, he reported it and faced the consequences that often befall honest people in a, sometimes, dishonest world.

It was through her father, also, that Happy was introduced to the world of theatre and music because of his

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involvement in performing arts at high school and university – an interest he carried into later life and passed on to his (six) children.

“So all us kids were always playing and singing and dancing . . . I was always encouraged to express myself,” she says.

Happy finished high school and went on to gain an economics degree from Trisakti University in Jakarta. That’s the short story of her adolescence . . . but read on friends because she was actually mind-blowingly busy – as if school and university weren’t busy and challenging enough . . .

“My parents encouraged all of us to do anything we wanted to do, so at 15 I got a modeling job for a magazine,” Happy says.

“I entered competitions for singing and performing . . . everything I could.”

At around 17 Happy began appearing on the radars of television producers of the soap opera genre.

“One of them asked if I would like to try acting,” she says.

“Step by step I learned how to do this kind of work . . . just try, why not!”

Thus, Happy’s already hectic life became more so.

“In my first role I played a secretary who was being intimidated by someone in the office, so I had to do a lot of crying,” she laughs.

“It was a very good job because it was my first role and I played an important character and I earned good money.

“I thought, oh wow, this is good, this is fun!”

Happy ever after.

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interwho Don't worry, be...

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So from her late teens into her early twenties Happy was a high school student, model, an increasingly popular soap opera star, a university student/graduate and . . . a kindergarten teacher for goodness’ sake!

“Did you ever sleep?” I ask.

Laughs again.

“I was really full of energy and my life was so colourful . . . wonderful, I wanted to learn everything,” she replies.

But there was a downside to Happy’s increasing prominence in the public space – an affliction that plagues most societies. Jealousy. Mostly women, Happy says, but men also, would say unkind things simply because she was “beautiful, sexy, and successful”. In the case of some men this form of unkindness was a (rather pathetic) response to the fact that Happy was far too busy to entertain the notion of having a boyfriend.

“It hurt me sometimes because I was working really hard and had to have strong (self-) discipline to do all the things I was doing,” she says.

Happy was still a teenager when the Suharto era came to an end and, because of the values her father had instilled, she had little fondness of the regime’s way of governing. It was an exciting – and at the same time somewhat scary – period to be a young, idealistic Indonesian. To be part of the generation that risked life and limb to change the status quo.

“So how did you feel when the dictatorship finally came to an end?”

“Euphoria!” Happy says.

“Euphoria, but also fearful of what might happen in the future – I was afraid of what the future held for my parents, my family, my friends.”

The events surrounding the Reformasi also gave Happy food for thought about how those momentous events should be interpreted, and eventually remembered, by the Indonesian people – particularly the younger generations. And set her to thinking about what role she might play in preserving the memory of the times for future generations.

Happy’s view of her career shifted in a subtle way.

“I always struggled for my art – to do the best job I can and to find new ways of expression – so I wanted to explore other avenues outside of modeling and making soap operas,” she says.

“I wanted to write, to make films, to work in front of and behind the camera, to work in the theatre.

“But it’s not as if I wake up thinking I’ll do this or that today, no, it’s all about process – following the process to move into new areas. In this sense I’m inspired by writers like Pramoedya Ananta Toer and his ideas.”

Pramoedya – now deceased – is one of Indonesia’s most prominent (anti-colonialist) authors who, at a party celebrating his 80th birthday, famously referred to Indonesia as “a continent of corruption”. He was

held without charges for 14 years on the prison island of Buru under the Suharto regime – during which time he wrote a series of novels that became known as the Buru Quartet that were banned by the dictator.

Moving forward a few years, Happy finally found time to fall in love and got married to Tjokorda Gus “Max” Kerthyasa – a member of the Ubud royal family (whom you can read about in the July issue of The Bud magazine).

“Max (a professional photographer) also struggles for his art so we are able to bounce ideas off each other,” Happy says.

During one of their honeymoons Happy and Max were discussing the Reformasi and its relevance to the younger generation of Indonesians who, they thought, were more interested in frivolous entertainment pursuits than the kind of activism that freed the country from Suharto’s grip. They agreed that a signature event in the reformation struggle was the armed intervention by paramilitaries at a student demonstration at Trisakti University – Happy’s old alma mater – in May 1998, which saw four students killed. Happy and Max decided it would make a sound basis for a movie that might serve to preserve an important piece of modern Indonesian history.

All being well, the Trisakti movie will begin shooting in 2012 – with Happy following her processional instincts as the movie’s producer.

Earlier this year Happy found herself at the Cannes Film Festival in France because she won a movie award – for a film called Tujuh Hati, Tujuh Cinta, Tujuh Wanita – at the Indonesian Film Festival.

“Indonesia had a stand in Cannes promoting our industry and I was part of our delegation which was very exciting,” Happy says.

“I watched so many films from around the world, met so many people and learned so much that gave me more confidence about my own involvement in movies.”

These days Happy no longer works in soaps, preferring to focus her talents on the film genre. But you can be assured she won’t stop there – she’s seemingly unstoppable.

“Who are your heroes?”

“My parents of course; (Raden Ajeng) Kartini (a pioneer of the Indonesian women’s rights movement) – I love her; Pramoedya; and (former president) Sukarno – because he is really our founding father,” she says.

“I admire people who are activists, who are positive, and who use their time to try to make the world a better place for others.”

So if you’re looking for a role model for your kids you could do a lot worse than point them in the direction of Happy Salma.

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PEOPLE

The Yak hooks up with Interior Ministry maven Caroline Dumergue, otherwise known as Ushers by Design . . .

star turn.

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Birth date and anything else you’d like to add?

Let’s just say I’m a Scorpio Monkey. Loyal to a fault, with a really cheeky and mischievous naughty side.

The three most influential people in your life and why . . .

My Mum Margaret, because she was an incredibly aware and wise person who was insanely creative, quite eccentric and very grounded. She was a complete realist, whereas I lean more to being an optimist. Then there’s Robert Pearson, a production designer from NZ who taught me a lot about time-lapse photography and set design in my teens. He’s been living in LA for a long time now and is doing great work. Graham ‘Grace’ Walker is another fantastic inspiration, he designed the first Mad Max. We got to spend almost a year in Thailand on a movie together in1997.

Travels – your life started in New Zealand. Please continue . . .

I started traveling at 17 on my own. Was fairly independent and have built a great network globally over the years. Went to Melbourne for a year, then home to work in the movie business. Travelled in choppers and in every type of vehicle around most of New Zealand on shoots and used to love driving around the country. Spent considerable time in Los Angeles, which I loved, then Boston, sadly didn’t really get the vibe there, a bit weird and waspy. Scored an art direction role for MTV in NYC for a year when I was 23. Mexico for six months in between projects was amazing; Fiji art directing a Carlsberg beer commercial on a yacht was pretty memorable; Thailand living and working, awesome; Vietnam sourcing for a movie, Burma, Japan, Hong Kong and a bit of China. Moved to the UK where I lived on and off for 11 years and London was where I decided to finish up the movie life. France, Italy, Spain, Ibiza and Copenhagen all for fun and friends. Sweden is also on the radar . . .

Your passions are . . .

In no particular order, food, wine, Champagne, travel, relaxing, reading, adventure, fitness and sleep – I dream of having consistent eight hour sleeps, yet of late I don’t.

You’re hosting a dinner for 10 guests. Who would you invite, past or present?

What a great question. Lee Miller an American Vogue model turned photographer from the 1920s. She was stunning, an adventurer, she was the lover of Man Ray for a time and was often partying with Picasso. She went into the front line when WWII was coming to an end. She shot some amazing and haunting images. Her autobiography was a great read. Kjell-åke Andersson, a Swedish film director. Everyone needs a Kjell-åke at the dinner table. We worked on a movie together. Had so much fun pranking around that the producer separated us. Rowland Fade, a British artist who has been living in southern Spain for over 40 years. I was connected to him through a Boston contact in the early ’90s, went to visit, turned out he was living with a Spanish princess. I ended up staying for three months. John Jackson, a long-time buddy, was Bob Dylan’s guitarist, he is the one to bring his music skills to the dinner table. I’ll never forget the day he humbly asked me, before a sound check, if I could please have lunch with his friend, who turned out to be Carlos Santana. David Byrne must be included and is another incredible talent. Very inspiring and totally down to earth. Drank with him after his Top of the Pops debut of Lazy. Bob Marley, been discovering some powerful wisdom from the herb man himself lately and Uprising was my first album. Brad Pitt, because

I had the fortunate moment of exiting a unisex washroom where he was standing waiting to enter. He is as every bit stunning as seen on any set or in any movie. Oh bugger it, let’s include Angelina Jolie, just because I don’t want her to feel insecure that I’ve invited Brad.

When did your feet hit Bali soil?

Came to Bali first in 1997, for three months before heading off to work on a movie in Thailand. It was love as soon as I set foot on the ground, it felt like I was meant to be here and yet there was no way I could have at that time.

Things changed in 2007, made the decision after a quick visit and moved six months later. It wasn’t an easy transition and it took a while to get settled and set up. Had a lot of support from a dear mate who also happens to be from our homeland.

What would you describe yourself as? Workwise.

Diversely creative, expectations are high of myself and of others in the work place. A perfectionist. Demanding at times, especially when things aren’t happening fast enough, that is what a movie career will do to anyone. I can be quite stubborn when convincing clients the right way to go. Most of the time it comes down to available budget so I have finally learnt to pick my battles. Love to have a good laugh. The team I roll with all have a decent offbeat and twisted sense of humor. Imperative when we all work so close and intensely.

You instigated, in Bali at any rate, ‘gudang glamour’ with Mama San and, correct us if we are wrong, Art Deco decadence with Plantation at Double Six Seminyak. Where do you get your inspiration from?

The guys at Mama San gave me a solid foot in the door. It was a pretty deep year for me losing my brother just as the project started. I worked like a demon and just threw everything into it, so my brother was the inspiration, and working with essentially a great team at that time. Plantation and Seminyak Italian was a long and enduring 13 months on developing the overall concept designs including all specs, finishing selections and furniture. A huge amount of research, development and fine-tuning was undertaken. The restaurateur had a very clear idea what he wanted and the owner was always very accommodating.

What’s in the pipeline?

The current project is Shanghai Baby, a multi level Cantonese property with Nicholas Minniti. Ground floor dining, lounge club and rooftop event space. We have all worked so incredibly hard and for what feels like a long time. It is a big project and finally, we are all feeling very excited, especially now that everything is starting to take shape and seeing the overall vision come together. Am very much looking forward to dining and spending a great deal of time in the lounge club, at the bar with Nic and the team.

Anything you would like to achieve in the next five years?

Tons. Design restaurants and beach clubs around Asia and anywhere else where the Ushers style is sought and my creative energy is valued. Designing a super yacht and private jet are a bit of a yummy dream. Build the business and bring on board a protégé to take over in a few years. And with all the above, lots of time out with loved ones, travel and chilling.

Best of Kiwi, Caroline. www.facebook.com/Ushers-by-Design

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is gender a factor in success? we asked bali's leading femme fatales. words: karen donald. images: ryerson anselmo for costes portrait

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empowered (left to right) : nicolaza, liat, alexa, susanna.

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FIFTEEN years ago, when I was starting my company Made from Stardust, a businesswoman gave me some advice. "Stay focused on what you're trying to achieve. Your worst enemy is going to be self-doubt."

With so many competitive men ahead of me securing positions in the workplace, she emphasized the importance of backing myself and closing the confidence gap.

Years later, I still value advice from business owners – especially from dynamic women who face additional and unique obstacles because of their gender.

Unlike Western issues surrounding female equality, Indonesia has additional cultural and religious structures that have an influence upon women’s rights and self-image. But statistics show that women are now starting businesses at twice the rate of male-majority-owned enterprises.

Strategies that have helped female entrepreneurs to succeed include defying social expectations, building a support network, tackling gender discrimination and balancing dual career-family pressures. Although businesswomen with children experience even more demands on their time and energy, the growing success rate of female entrepreneurs shows that women are naturally resourceful and blessed with skills to succeed – despite the odds.

I asked nine women founders – all of whom I greatly admire – to provide some insight on how to overcome challenges in the world of business.

Here is what they had to say.

Susanna Perini, Founder, CEO & Creative Director of BIASA Group Italian-born Susanna Perini is the founding designer of BIASA Bali – an award-winning and internationally recognized clothing label, art space and lifestyle brand. Her story began in 1994, when she created a boutique inspired by an Indonesian lifestyle and Italian design ethos, offering visitors and residents sophisticated resort-wear collections along with treasures from around the world.

Susanna was awarded an Order of Knighthood from the Republic of Italy in relation to her work

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within Indonesian Contemporary Art and its promotion through cultural exchanges in Italy.

staff and taught them to rise through the ranks regardless of background or education.

“I am privileged to be the product of two generations of self-employed women," she told me. “My early conditioning leans towards selfassurance in a male-dominated world, making my experience unusual compared to the hardships still faced by women in the workforce, especially in Indonesia. Growing my business as a woman in Bali has shed light on the stark diversity in culture experienced here between the sexes. Indonesian women are definitely considered ‘less adequate’ than men to handle top management roles and decision-making in business. For this reason, at times I also personally experience a subtle resistance by male colleagues to fully embrace my lead as a captain.

“As a female business owner I have looked into the issue of self-empowerment and how it relates to a woman’s belief in herself and her role in the workplace. My advice for local businesswomen is to seek improved economic opportunities.

At Amo we actually only have one male staff member in a management authority position.

All other management and leadership roles have been promoted from within the company, which has provided the necessary training and essential personal development skills to make this internal shift possible for our female local staff to assume these positions.

“My advice to female entrepreneurs would be to draw a clear intention of your own inspiration and share that with others. Be aware of the influence of actions that we directly or indirectly inflict upon our environment. I believe that becoming financially rich, powerful or famous are no longer sustainable goals – those intentions create destruction and suffering. By including compassionate values in our priorities we have the chance to practice an alternative and more sustainable business format than the one we have experienced through the centuries in a maledominated world.

“Living in Bali, and gaining a true appreciation for its culture has taught me that there is an untouched universe at play between the seen and unseen. As a woman, I believe that being driven by underlying values that may be kept in the realm of the unseen is perfectly okay.”

Navia Ngyuen, Former Model & Founder of Amo Spa Bali Vietnamese-American model and actress Navia Ngyuen created Amo Spa as a profitshare company with the mission statement: Women’s Rights and Equality through Economic Opportunity. Currently eighty-five percent of Amo’s work force is female – not managed by male authority figures, but female role models.

This is because Navia invested in her local female

Although we have an old paradigm stating what the good mother and wife should be like – such as careers, economic self-sufficiency, perfect bodies, and not to age or be too powerful – our female staff are now the breadwinners for their families.

During 10 years of doing business in Bali we have seen the positive effect training has had on female staff members at work and in interpersonal relationships with their mother in laws, husbands, communities, and being role models to their children.”

Made Yanie Mason, Co-Founder/President Director of Mason Adventures: Mason Elephant Park & Lodge, Mason Sky Tours, Mason Gourmet, & Mason Chocolates.

It has been thirty years since award-winning Made Yanie Mason started her adventures. Ever since she was young Yanie admired her parents and older sisters who worked very hard throughout their entire lives. This inspired her to do something different, with conviction. Not long after meeting her husband Nigel, she decided to open Yanie's Restaurant, which was incredibly popular and a first of it's kind in Legian – which would set the foundations and pave the way to the initiation of her first Rafting Adventure Tour in 1989.

“I had many problems to overcome over the years, starting with my marriage to a Westerner, which was heavily frowned upon at the time, as well as the government, which most certainly did not take women seriously in business. During my

amo amas amat ... navia.

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feature janet (left) and niluh.

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early years in business I was frequently looked down upon, especially by people who were quick to make assumptions. We had to work extremely hard over long hours just to make ends meet because we had very little money – however we had lots of enthusiasm and made a great team.

It was a struggle back in the 80s and most likely I was being paid the least. However, since starting my own businesses – being paid unfairly based on my gender is no longer a problem. It’s only in this century that Balinese women have been able to overcome the prejudices of the past. Women in Bali are now far better educated and are definitely being taken much more seriously.

"My best piece of advice for businesswomen is don't ever be afraid to stand up for yourself. Be patient, find your genuine passion in life and always strive to pursue it. Stay strong, determined, and don't listen to the bullshit along the way – results will eventually speak for themselves.”

Janet DeNeefe, Founder and Director of Ubud Writers Festival & Ubud Food Festival Janet DeNeefe is an expert in the business of hospitality, food and spices.

Her creations: Casa Luna Restaurant, Indus Restaurant, Honeymoon Guesthouse sit alongside the Ubud Food Festival and Ubud Writers & Readers Festival – named

by The Telegraph as “Among the top five Writer's Festivals in the World”. Accidently starting her first business in 1987, ‘Lilies Restaurant, Monkey Forest Road’ was acquired from a bankrupt landlord for a ridiculously low sum of money.

“My best piece of advice for female entrepreneurs is do things with integrity and for the right reason and then give it 150 percent dedication and attention.

Be in charge, never give up and work hard. It's also important as a woman to have a support network and loyal friends around you who will listen at all times (and always take your side!).

"Personally, I ignore failure because otherwise I would not succeed. But I don't really see things as ‘failing’, I simply treat things as experiments, and if it doesn't work you make it better the next time: It's all a learning experience. If it doesn't work, you try another way.

Rome wasn't built in a day!

"There are plenty of Indonesian mentors in Bali. Ubud has a history of successful mentors/entrepreneurs and women have always run our most popular warungs.

I wrote about them in The Jakarta Post – Ibu Oka's, Murni's, Canderi's, Cafe Wayan and Oka Wati's are/were successful because of the women who created them.

Customers like to see the ‘face behind the business’– the person with the story: so be prepared to stand up and share the reasons for your endeavours.

My biggest skill is my humour – without it I would have fallen in a heap on the floor. Flexibility and patience is a must in all businesses here. You have to take it as it comes and be patient throughout the process.“

Alexa Genoyer, Founder/CEO of Blue Karma Secrets & The Oracle Luxury Cruises Alexa Genoyer’s area of expertise is hospitality and luxury cruises. Alexa started her journey into hospitality 14 years ago after vividly dreaming she owned a 10-bedroom guesthouse in a place “where she could hear religious chants far away”. Following her dream Alexa travelled the world from South America, to North Africa to South East Asia and finally found it while visiting land in Gang Bima. The bungalows of an old Pondok Wisata triggered a flashback and that’s how Blue Karma Seminyak started. In 2018 Blue Karma Ubud was named “Number One Retreat Resort, South Pacific”

by I-Explore.

“My advice for women who struggle to be taken seriously is to remember all the women who fought, and still fight in many parts of the world for their rights.

I make sure that all the women working with me are respected just as men are. While recruiting our female Cruise Director I was concerned that female authority may not be accepted by men coming from different religious backgrounds – actually I was wrong, as it does not depend on the gender but on the personality of the individual.

"My life skills are the ability to multitask, curiosity, adaptability, and willingness to work as a team – to leave space for each person to be creative. If you are starting in business, I suggest that you forget seeing yourself as a ‘woman’, instead feel yourself as being a ‘person who is driven by an idea.’ If you don’t want to experience separation, then don’t think separation.

Don’t consider yin and yang, but instead consider a

whole in which you have a bit of yin, and a bit of yang.

There is not black and white, but thousands of greys.

There is never bad nor good: there is something.”

Niluh, Founder & Creative Director of Niluh Shoes Ni Luh Putu Ary Pertami Djelantik was born in a small village near Kintamani, Bangli. For 16 years she has been running a handmade leather shoes and accessories manufacturing company called Niluh Djelantik. When Niluh was a child, she used to wear a pair of shoes two or three sizes too big for her. Her mother – a single parent – insisted that she get an education and sent her to the best school even though they were poor. At nine years old Niluh told her mom, "One day when I have a job and make my own money I will buy a pair of shoes that fit." And in 1995, as a receptionist, she bought her first pair of high heels that cost IDR15,000. Winner of many awards including: The Yak Magazine's Woman of the Year 2015, Denpasar Marketing Champion 2016, and Forbes Indonesia, Rising Global Stars, 2017: Niluh believes in craftsmanship, and creates high quality products that compete internationally.

“In my working experiences, I have always been surrounded by male colleagues. I make sure that my voice is heard and that my professional capacity is also part of the company’s growth. I use special techniques when communicating with my team: since they come from different backgrounds, ages and education levels.

It is very effective, and at the same time they feel that you give them the love and respect they deserve.

"My best advice for female entrepreneurs is there is no elevator to success, as everybody has to take the stairs!

Each failure is a lesson that will improve your skills and ability to grow the company. Once you have achieved your success, always remember to give back by sharing your skills with those in need so they can follow in your footsteps and reach their own stardom. It will not be an easy journey, but you know why you started in the first place so give it your full attention, and never forget to be grateful. Delegation is important and you need to trust that your team is capable of doing their job well. As for your relationship with clients, and suppliers, consider them your family: at the end of the day they support you and make sure that your company is strong.”

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Liat Solomon, Founding Director of Down To Earth, Earth Café, the Bali Vegan Festival, Zula, and Paradiso Theater Ubud Liat Solomon is founder of the enterprising Bali Vegan Festival, and owner of Zula, Down to Earth, and Earth Café – where focus is on creating a better world through pure, organic foods. Liat has never worked for anyone else: she opened her first restaurant at the age of 19 following her love for the earth, supporting people who wanted to live a healthy lifestyle. For 37 years Liat has been sharing her knowledge with our community here in Bali – bringing clean and organic food to every table.

ambiance for people to enjoy their dining experience from beginning to end. Winner of several Yak Awards, Sardine has editorials in The New York Times, Harper’s Baazar, Condé Nast Traveler, Gourmet Traveler, Times Magazine, Luxe, and Indonesian Tatler.

“For me a restaurant is like a theater, everything matters: ambiance, greeting, service, lighting, music and of course good food. The biggest lesson I learned in Bali is patience.

My ability to relate to people from all walks of life and cultures helps me to be able to work with men and women, move around the world and start new ventures.

I have always worked for myself so it’s up to me to find

“My advice for female entrepreneurs is to make sure you have a support team and learn to delegate. Eat a healthy diet, sleep well and make time for love. Remove anyone from around you who is not supportive. Most of all, I think it’s about being true, honest, kind and generous. It’s wonderful to see women in power. Women have the full spectrum of emotions, passions and ideas.

"Being a woman in business is common now, but when I first started I was not taken seriously and was often taken advantage of and exposed to threats and humiliation by men in powerful positions. Coping with the fear of failure is very important because I have faced so many challenges with my business, such as having to rebuild Earth Café Seminyak after it suffered major loss in the recent fire, and with Paradiso Theater Seminyak after it burnt down less than 24 hours after opening. Telling myself ‘better days will come’ is important.

Pika Chevillot, artist, interior designer and restaurateur, was born in Slovenia. Inspired by her insatiable curiosity for other cultures and places, she began to travel the world at young age. She spent time in Argentina, the Caribbean island of Saint Martin, New York and Los Angeles before moving to Bali with her husband Pascal where Sardine was born. Housed in a striking bamboo structure – overlooking a vista of endless rice paddies – Sardine is a charming restaurant serving healthy, tasty and light cuisine du soleil, ideal for a hot Bali climate.

Pika likes to set the stage and provide the perfect

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Nicolaza Lupercio, Co-founder/Creative Director of Mexicola Group Bali Born and raised in Mexico, Nicolaza Lupercio runs Motel Mexicola, Da Maria and Luigi’s Hot Pizza. Her career in hospitality started in Playa Del Carmen during 2002 working for Grupo Habita, one of Mexico’s leading hospitality organizations. Nicolaza has been passionate about food since she was little girl. In 2008, while living in Terrigal, Australia, some influential people tried her food and decided to invest in her skills. Since her arrival in Bali, Nicolaza has won several awards – Motel Mexicola was voted “Top 10 Restaurants in Bali” by Forbes Life Magazine’.

Motel Mexicola won “Best Bar” at The Yak Awards, with Da Maria winning “Best Italian Restaurant” by The Beat Bali Awards.

“My life has always been devoted to service, and that’s what hospitality is all about. I love giving people an experience and offering great service. I have never faced gender-based obstacles, although I am aware that it happens. My father was my first boss, and my last boss, and Mr Alejandro Rueda, is still my best friend. I have only worked with men and all my business partners are men.

If anything, it’s been really positive – I have learnt the way they think business wise and they have learnt from my feminine touch too.

"Being a single mother is also a heavy load. Putting my own needs, wishes, and hopes on the backburner because kids come first. Luckily living in Bali I have the ‘second shift’ duties covered by help, which allows me to spend quality time with my kids and put the troubles of the day behind me.”

Pika Chevillot, Co-Founder of Sardine Restaurant

surround yourself with like-minded people. Be realistic and understand how to get from point A to point B. Keep learning – as knowledge creates confidence. Most importantly, don’t forget to have fun!”

yanie by ted van de hulst.

and create opportunities. In my experience, an individual’s talent, knowledge and reliability are more important than gender itself. At Sardine we have many female employees and both my husband and I try to encourage and empower them equally.

My advice for women starting in business is to choose something that you are passionate about where you can grow and get better with experience. Put your heart and mind into it: get excited and take pride in what you do.

Take advice only from people who know the subject, and

Within my culture Mexican women are not intimidated by any gender – work is work. That doesn’t mean we are less feminine, but we don’t project fear when it comes to work, as for some work is survival. Here in Bali, people often are surprised that a female is behind such an explosive brand like Motel Mexicola. The reaction is always so positive – I get great satisfaction from it.

"My advice for female businesswomen is to trust your instincts and the process – let go of fear no matter what.

Things may not go the way you expect them to go, but you will be surprised that in the end it will turn out even greater than you expected. In today’s world it’s not enough to provide a great product, you have to apply love to everything you do. There is no such thing as luck. Power is not given – it’s taken. So go for it, it’s up to you!”

The Yak Magazine contacted many women for the purpose of this feature. We would like to thank those who were able to contribute their valuable time.

gang of four: pika, nicolaza, liat, alexa.

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interwho Model, actress and designer Kelly Tandiono TALKS TO TONY STANTON ABOUT LIFE thus FAR. photo by stephane sensey.

STYLIST KARIN WIJAYA. DRESS BY DENNY WIRAWAN. MAKE-UP BY IFAN RIVALDI.

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Kelly, Is it a rude question to ask: how tall are you?

I’m 176cm.

Did you feel like a model when you were growing up?

No, in fact I was such a tomboy that I thought I was going to be an athlete.

How did you grow up?

I grew up living around the world. Studying and working as a model was the best experience.

When did the modeling scouts start to notice you?

When I was 14 years old while walking around the mall in Jakarta. And then again in Singapore while strolling down Orchard Road.

Have you started designing your own line yet?

Actually yes, my friend Simona and I are doing some samples now. I hope everything will go well and we can get it up and running soon.

How about other Indonesian designers... who do you rate at the moment?

Well my favorite would be Biyan.

How would you describe your personal style?

Effortless, street, androgynous and comfortable.

When did this career really start to happen for you?

It started in earnest when I was at university in Singapore. I was doing it as a part time job. And when I graduated I started travelling around the world and lived in many cities. I never thought I would fall in love with fashion, moreover a model.

How's the acting going?

I recently won Best Actress from my last movie Negeri Tanpa Telinga. I have to thank director Lola Amaria for trusting me to play this role.

And hopefully I will get to explore other roles.

Especially action movies, comedy, drama and romance.

I'm thinking you've probably seen quite a lot of the world . . .

I’ve travelled a lot since I was 14. I left Jakarta during the riots in ‘98 and went to Singapore.

Studied there for a year then I left to Australia for boarding school. Finished my university in Singapore then I started travelling to Hong Kong, Taiwan, London, Berlin, Milan, Madrid. I was based in London mostly and lived there for two years. I've always loved traveling and have done since I was a child.

What's next for Kelly?

Right now I’m focusing on my acting. It’s still something new to me. I’m also doing some travel shows with Trans TV and I’ve come to love that since I’m a natural traveller. I get to learn about my country and go to these amazing places I would have never known about or thought about exploring.

So where is home now?

Home for me now is Jakarta. People always ask me why I came back, but I’ve always known that eventually I would return. I believe in getting experience and knowledge from other places but you should never forget where your home is. And of course the fashion industry in Indonesia has completely changed but I still want to be a part of it.

Fashion will always be in my blood. I still love being a model and I would do it forever if it were possible, but there comes a time when one needs to look for new challenges, and that’s where the acting comes in.

Instagram @kelly_tandiono

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people

AGNES, PHOTOGRAPHED

BY BLAMO.

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GLOBETROTTER, DESIGNER AND MODEL, MULTITASKER MARIA AGNES IS THE REAL DEAL.

Name, rank and serial number please . . .

I'm Maria Agnes. My rank . . . well, that's Private. I don't have a number, but if I had to choose a serial . . . Modern Family.

Tell us about your younger days.

I was a bit of a tomboy. I spent a lot of time with my brother – biking around our neighbourhood in Jakarta, climbing trees, getting into trouble and laughing a lot. I loved ballet too – that was my girly thing . . . hair in pigtails, rocking my tutu, and trying to master the five positions.

Who was the biggest influence in your life as a child?

My mother. I love her liveliness and her fondness for travel - she took me all over Europe, Australia, Asia and the States. I get my wanderlust from her. Also her sense of humour and her perseverance. She taught me to be independent and to stand on my own two feet from a very young age. So yeah, she kind of made me who I am today.

What was your nickname at school?

People call me Anyes (like how you pronounce Agnes in French).

So when you were older you went off to Melbourne to study fashion . . .

I flew to Melbourne when I was 17 with plans to study architecture/interior design. I did a foundation for six months before realising it was fashion that really made me tick. I was already into collaging – I did it as a hobby growing up. I learned the ropes at the Royal Melbourne Institute of Technology – both the industry and design side of things. After that, I continued my studies at the Ecole Superieure Des Arts et Techniques de la Mode (ESMOD).

And then you started your label Blckhrt?

I started Blckhrt in 2009. We did our first shows in Berlin and New York. That first season, we got into Topshop in Oxford Circus and ASOS, so that was very exciting for me. And it's just gotten more and more interesting ever since. It's a challenging industry, but it's given me the best times of my life. Creating in Bali, connecting in cities like London, New York and Paris and getting inspiration from all the places I travel to.

Did we see you in the movies at some point?

It's possible. I did a movie in 2003 right before continuing my fashion studies at ESMOD. And I did another one in 2007 right after I finished school.

And of course you're a well-known model . . . is that life all it's cracked up to be?

I was young, earning good money and travelling to places I'd never been.

Yeah, it was fun . . . it was a gift. I was meeting all these young people, 16 to

22, they were vibrant, eager to see what life could bring, what there was in the world to see. Modelling gave us that opportunity and to do it in style.

Some of those guys are still my best friends today. But for me, modelling had its shelf life and I knew when to step out.

So where are you headed now with the label?

There's a lot going on with the label and I'm also developing a new project that I'm super excited about. But 2015 is going to be a big year for sure.

Blckhrt is evolving from this upstart maverick label into something more classic – it's changing with me as I grow as a designer and as a person. I want to create a look that is subtle, timeless. That's the direction. The other project is still at the concept stage and will probably take another six months before it materialises . . . it's travel related, which is probably why I'm so excited about it.

Right, I'm a young fashion designer. Give me the three most important things to understand about the business . . .

1. Build a strong base. That means both design and business – and stay focused.

2. You have to really trust your gut instinct – make what you love, not what you think everyone else is going to love.

3. Get a good business partner and get everything down on paper.

Who inspires you from the world of fashion?

Too many to mention, but Coco Chanel is definitely on top of the list. The woman is a legend.

Whose photography floats your boat at the moment?

All time favourites are Juergen Teller, Hedi Slimane, Nick Knight.

How would you describe yourself in three words?

Silent, still, silly.

When things get tough, what do you reach for?

A place of silence where I can be alone and reconnect with my own self and my truth. The most important relationship that you have is with yourself after all. There's no such thing as too tough . . . if you just breathe and embrace the moment you're in. It's all in our heads. We can make a prison for ourselves, or set ourselves free. T.S. www.blckhrtlabel.com

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interwho

styling: a.k. Hall. Wardrobe: ali charisma. Jewllery: jemme. hair & makeup: kat o'hara. shot on location at W retreat & spa bali.

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polymath Luna Maya bounces from one project to another – she bounces in to rap at The Yak. photos: Stephane Sensey.

LUNA, we checked you out on Instagram . . . three million followers and counting . . . so we want to ask: how in the hell did you become so famous?

Well I’ve been in the film and fashion industry since 1999. All I did was to work and deliver my best. I don’t share much of my private life in the media, maybe the followers are curious so they follow? I don’t know.

If we were to ask someone who knew nothing about your acting career to watch one of your films . . . which one would you recommend?

Ruang: mostly because it is my mother’s favorite choice.

What's your connection to Bali?

I was born and raised there, my home, mostly because my family still lives there as well as my best friends.

Okay, tell us about how you got started on the fashion merry-goround?

Basically I got a proposal to this business and it seemed feasible so I decided to join in.

What’s your clothing line all about?

At the end of 2014 I decided to make my own business. I love fashion, and have been surrounded by it. I decided to name the brand Luna Habit since all of the ready-to-wear items are designed according to my tone and taste.

Of course I need to follow the trends as well. Our prices are competitive and we very much focus on quality.

We hear you’re also doing something with the Disney studios . . .

Disney was looking to localise their movie Avengers: The Age of Ultron in

Indonesia – apparently it was the only market they were going to use a localised marketing approach. Since Avengers, as everybody knows, does not need marketing for the male characters, they decided to highlight Black Widow to attract more female audiences. That’s where I come in as their ambassador a Black Widow. I didn’t even dream of becoming a Disney ambassador at once but, hey . . . sometimes reality is better than dreams.

We produced four short video trailers and shareable images. Those were distributed only via online platforms.

Do you need superpowers for that?

Yes, believing in yourself. That’s the ultimate superpower . . .

Tell us about your mum and dad.

My father was a painter, a gifted painter who could not finish some of his works because he had to leave us. He was ill and passed away when I was 12. My mother has a strong passion for garments and batiks. She still produces them until this day. Both lovely people.

What keeps you busy now, and what are you planning for the future?

I spend most of my time working for Luna Habit and some other activities like TV shows and photo shoots.

Describe yourself in three words...

Active, simple and sensitive.

If there was only one thing left that you were able to do, what would that be?

Travelling around the world . . .

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people bali kid samanfah wilson passed on law school to find her way as a costume designer now pulling weight in london. she spoke to tony stanton about life as a mermaid.

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Hi Samanfah. First off, let’s clear up that spelling of your name so the whole world doesn’t think we’ve made a dreadful typo lol … it’s pretty original.

I suppose original is what I was aiming for! From a young age, I never really understood why people are all unique but get called the same thing. One Steven is a completely different person to another Steven – so I never really understood why they would have the same name! Aside from that, we also live very much in a world where online identities are a large part of our visibility – try typing “Samantha Wilson” into Google and watch the days pass as you try and find the one you are looking for! By changing the last few letters there was only one of me… I wasn’t ready for a full on internet name transformation like so many who have been rebirthed as “Moonstone Twinklepuff” or whatever, so I just changed it to sound the way people pronounce it here in London.

Where were you born, and how did you grow up?

Because of my father’s job working with hotels, I had a rather scattered upbringing with a lot of moving. At a young age, I hated moving and the idea of change and leaving friends behind. However as I got older, it became so natural to me I developed a sort of restless leg syndrome that drove me to constantly seek change and new environments, and still does. I definitely had a very privileged upbringing that allowed me to see a lot of the world at a very young age. I was born in Adelaide and then proceeded to grow up in India, Japan, Malaysia, Singapore and Bali, where I spent the majority of my teenage years. At the age of 14 I realised if I didn’t move away, there was a good chance I would spend too much time on the beaches of Sanur pretending to be a mermaid instead of actually getting school work done. So I applied for boarding school back in Adelaide, where I was born. Boarding school turned out to be a pretty restrictive environment for a Bali kid, there was no leaving the grounds without permission, no motorbikes, no beaches and not a lot of freedom. I went from being treated like an adult at the age of 15 to being treated quite like a child who needed constant minding, which didn’t suit me too well. I remember the itchy long tartan skirts I had to wear and the uniformity that was forced upon us, which really drove me a bit mad and resulted in me dying my hair bright pink. It goes without saying that I was suspended until my hair returned to a “natural colour”, no matter how hard I protested that I was trying to raise awareness for breast cancer. I think that imposed uniformity and controlling environment is what really made me look for escape in art, painting, making clothes... and secretly keeping two mice called Penny and Ishmael in my cupboard who would accompany me to class and keep me entertained when the lesson just wasn’t cutting it.

And then college or uni? What did you study?

Although it doesn’t sound like it, I actually took my education extremely seriously, got top grades when I graduated and planned on becoming a lawyer, accountant or entrepreneur. At the age of 16 I had fallen madly in love with London so the second I graduated the first thing I did was hop on a plane to the UK to get on with some university applications. I got accepted to a handful of fantastic schools in London and the UK to study law, business and finance and upon going to their open days and hearing their pitches on all the fabulous money hungry companies I could work for, I got cold feet and had a bit of a breakdown – I realised I was about to sign away four years of my life to a course that I wasn’t passionate about. I sat in that lecture hall and listened to

him talk about what graduates of this University could accomplish in the business world, but all I could focus on was the back of everyone’s head! I know it sounds strange but I was getting more and more depressed about the fact that everyone in the room looked absolutely identical from behind. All the girls with a blonde or brown bun or ponytail, boys with clean cut hair and business suits – again I had found myself in an environment where individuality was not expressed or celebrated in any way. I had to get out of that lecture hall, and found myself turning away every single offer, much to the panic of my dear parents!

At that point I started asking myself where my passions lay, and the one thing I kept coming back to was fashion and design. It was what I did when I was meant to be doing homework in my Australian boarding school room, it was what occupied my mind whenever I was meant to be doing something else productive, and it was simply what made me happiest. Growing up in Bali had always enabled me to make my own clothes from a young age, rather than mindlessly purchasing them from stores. I could really make things that were a bit too colourful, sparkly and weird to be in shops. So that was that, and I finally convinced my parents to let me apply to fashion school under the condition that I go to Central Saint Martins, a fashion school that had taught the likes of Alexander McQueen and many other greats in the industry. The deal was that if I did not get in, I was to go back and accept those business school offers without argument. So, having never really done art or design before, I hurriedly put together a portfolio in a few weeks to submit. I really believed I would get in because my heart was so invested in it at this point – but unfortunately that email in my inbox told me I did not get a placement.

The feedback I had gotten more or less told me that my designs were not sellable – they were a bit too bizarre I suppose for the world of fashion. I was beyond distraught with the thought that I would be enslaved in business school for the next four years.

At that point one of my best friends in London asked me why I didn’t look into being a costume designer. It would allow me to design without the restriction of being marketable to the mass population and would put me in an industry that was about making art rather than money. I did some last-minute applications and was lucky enough to be invited to interviews at a couple of the best costume schools in the country. The first was at London College of Fashion, and the second was Wimbledon College of Art. When I walked into that interview at Wimbledon with a bag of ramshackle costumes I had furiously stitched together, a lovely older man sat behind a desk, and when I went to shake his hand he proclaimed: “Oh no darling, in theatre we don’t shake hands, we hug!” and I immediately knew where I was meant to be. He looked through my portfolio and this bizarre collection of feather capes and crowns I had made for my interview and put me straight onto the course where I spent the next three years.

I graduated about a year ago with a BA in Costume design for theatre and screen and have been busy ever since making all sorts of ridiculous creations.

What is Jackalopeland?

Well, a Jackalope is a mythical animal in North American folklore, a rabbit with antlers that has a fond taste for whiskey! Apparently these unicorn rabbits can mimic the voices of humans and only breed during lightning flashes.

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people

Jackalopeland is an imaginary world in my head filled with these little rainbow antlerbearing bunnies, a place full of magic, colour, sparkles and imagination. It became the name of my clothing brand because it reminds me that whatever I design should fit into this dreamworld, instead of the world we seem to live in that has a common uniform of black, grey and beige. It keeps me off of the straight and narrow with my designs. Under the name Jackalopeland I make mermaid tails, unicorn headpieces, wings, crowns and colourfully adorned pieces that belong to this dreamworld.

from my upbringing in Asia. My love for bright colours and ornate decoration definitely has roots in India and Bali where I spent a few years growing up.

When I want to gather ideas and inspiration for the bigger picture of what I want to create, I often look to animals and fantasy artwork. Artwork and paintings are another huge inspiration to me, with incredible fantasy artists such as Hannah Yata, Camilla D’Errico and Mai Ja being some of my favourites. Even travelling around America and spending so much time in nature has really infused me with fresh inspiration.

Who’s wearing your custom made pieces?

It’s really fantastic, I get to make pieces for so many different people and productions ranging from models, singers, actors, performers, dancers and professional mythical creatures to people who just want a bit more magic in their wardrobe and lives. I find that sometimes doing one on one commission pieces for people can be more rewarding than those big jobs with the big names, just because at the end of the process you get to see someone take home a piece that really brings them out of their shell and empowers them at the same time.

Is anything off limits in costume design?

I really don’t think much is off limits in the world of costume design. I mean, right now I am in the process of designing a pink fluffy vagina costume for a stage performer – if genital costumes are not off limits, I can’t imagine what would be.

Have any of your designs appeared on film? We guess that would be a yes!

Yes! I was actually lucky enough to start designing for and working on films and music videos when I was in college at Wimbledon. A few directors approached me and I got to start making costume pieces for screen quite early in the game. In my second year of college I actually got accepted to go and intern on a film in the middle of nowhere in China, for a Jackie Chan movie called Dragons Blade starring John Cusack and Adrian Brody. Although I was interning, the head designer really took interest in my work and ended up getting me to help with the final designs for some of the main characters, which was one of the first monumental points where I felt confident I could pull my weight in the world of costume design. Alongside working as a designer and maker on productions, I rent out my collection of costumes and handmade pieces to other stylists. My designs and costume pieces have really been rented and flown all over the world, from sending my unicorn horns to Romania for Doritos advertisements to people picking up mermaid tails for underwater shoots. You never really know what is coming next.

We’re also guessing you’re no stranger to the festival circuit … where have you been this year?

Oh gosh, well this year has been especially ridiculous with the festival circuit. I actually fell in love with a Canadian six years ago and made him marry me the day he met me in London. We had a ramshackle wedding ceremony that day with a wizard minister on the canal in Camden, and then launched ourselves into the water where I proceeded to swim amongst the rubbish in my puffy wedding dress. This year we bought a motorhome and took it to eight festivals in Canada and America. I have actually spent the last six months living on the road with him, making costume pieces on the go and frolicking about in my mermaid tails at all sorts of festivals and bizarre landscapes! From small intimate festivals in the Canadian forests to huge festivals like Burning Man in the Nevada Desert, this year has really made me feel like I spend more time on festival grounds more than anywhere else.

What are you working on at the moment?

At the moment I have a bit of a backlog of commissions to get working on now that I am back in the UK. I have two crowns, a mermaid tail, fairy wings and two unicorn horns to make before the month is up with more and more things coming in each week. I am also designing and making costumes for a Studio 54 New Year’s Eve party at the Waldorf Astoria Hotel in Dubai, which has been extremely fun to research and immerse myself in.

You worked at the MTV EMA’s last year and Beiber was on the ticket ... Spill the beans please…

Last year’s work doing costumes for the European Music Awards was one of the most intense and exhilarating jobs I have had the pleasure of working on. I was working with a fabulous costume team on that job, and we had just over two weeks to put together costumes for many of the dancers and performers that took to the stage. There were definitely a lot of big names that we got to work with – Pharrel, Bieber, Rudimental, Ed Sheeran, Ellie Goulding, Duran Duran and more so there was a lot of pressure to make sure everything was absolutely perfect. Justin Bieber definitely dominated that show, winning most of the awards, but as far as beans to spill, your guess is as good as mine – my head was too busy buried under piles of fabric and buttons in the costume room to pay too much attention to the celebrities.

What’s next for Samanfah?

I am in the process of designing my own line of costumes, clothing and headpieces for Jackalopeland. Living on the road for the past six months made me realise how developing an online business is the best way to work while travelling and exploring the world. I started building an online store for all of my creations on my website www. samanfahwilson.com which I am relaunching in January with a new micro-line of magical creations. At the moment I am waist deep in designs I have developed over the past few years, trying to narrow down all of my ideas to a select range of costumes and headpieces that will hopefully bring some colour and sparkle to people all over the world. Alongside being a professional mermaid and unicorn, I have also decided to become a multi-coloured psychedelic lamb, which I will hopefully transform into next summer with a new rainbow light-up sheep costume, so stay tuned!

That would be something we’d like to see. Many thanks Samanfah!

From where do you get your inspiration for your designs?

Inspiration comes from all over really. I think a lot of my aesthetic and inspiration comes

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www.samanfahwilson.com

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people

erika, what a vivacious and lovely person you are. Where does that all come from?

Thank you. What a nice thing to say. Basically I was raised in a loving household. I was born in Puerto Rico and at five we moved to Miami, then Fort Myers, Florida. We’re from the Caribbean Dominican Republic and Puerto Rico, so we are happy people by nature! We are taught to laugh and enjoy life and to try to not get caught up in things. My mother is a strong, vivacious and charming woman, always smiling. She taught me that the most beautiful part of a woman is her smile and femininity and to embrace it.

Your hometown is having a pretty hard time of it at the moment, what’s the story over there?

Puerto Rico was hit by three storms and two of most powerful hurricanes of all time in the Caribbean, and it has really affected the island (and indeed most of the Caribbean islands). Most of the country is still without water and electricity. We are a Territory of the United States so we depend on the US for assistance, but it seems the current government doesn’t care to provide what’s needed to get the country back on its feet. Luckily our fellow American citizens have picked up where the government has failed, and I know Puerto Ricans are so grateful to the brothers and sisters on the mainland and worldwide for coming through in times of needs.

This has taught me a great lesson and made me love being American.

How can we help?

You can visit my friend’s gofundme page here https://www.generosity. com/emergencies-fundraising/maria-puerto-rico-real-time-recovery-fund and here https://www.gofundme.com/CenturyForPR. She’s one of the most inspiring and hardworking women I know, so I feel good knowing she’s in charge.

Tell us about your love of clothes, and how you got started in the fashion industry.

My mom said that when I was four I told her I was going to be a fashion designer and sell worldwide, so I’ve always wanted to do this. I took a summer program when I was 13 at Parsons in NYC and loved it so when I graduated high school I moved to NYC, attended the school . . . and the rest is history.

What makes Bali special for you?

Its people and energy. I feel creative and at peace here. I have designed my creations here, met my soulmate and created my daughter here. It’s home to me.

Of course we can’t help noticing you’re going to have a baby pretty soon! Are you excited, scared, nervous?

Very excited, grateful that she’s coming soon, nervous and yes scared, since I’ve never been a mother. But I was born to be a mother, so I feel very blessed.

Do you already have a clothing line planned out for her?

Yes! I’ve been so inspired to create beautiful outfits for Valentina Jules and would like to name the brand in her honour.

We had lunch recently and we talked about pregnancy and how it relates to a woman’s age … there’s so much pressure as a girl heads towards the big 40 … how difficult a journey has it been for you?

I’ve been trying for many years and I got pregnant but lost three babies, but finally when I let go of the idea of getting pregnant naturally and planned to start IVF, I fell pregnant. What I realised is that I needed to relax and surrender to the universe and let it come naturally with no pressure.

The positive energy replaced the stressed/negative energy of the not having instead of the having. My advice to all women is to believe and let go, then it will come.

Do you think men have it easy in this regard?

Yes in some ways, but also they have it hard having to keep up with us women.

Why are the simplest things in the world often so difficult, do you think?

Because we over think them and put so much energy into things instead of letting go. Bali has taught me to let go and enjoy.

How would you define the Erika Peña style?

Bold, tribal, chic, feminine and timeless. I want women that wear Erika Peña pieces to feel and look like the goddesses we are.

Will you be having your baby in Bali?

No, we wanted to be surrounded by family so we’re having the baby in my partner’s hometown.

Where can we buy your clothes?

We have two local stores, Erika Peña Boutiques in Canggu on Echo Beach and in Seminyak. We also sell online and ship everywhere from our website www.erikapena.com and we are stocked in stores worldwide.

When is due date?

December 28th.

How did you end up in Bali?

I went to China for production 10 years ago but didn’t enjoy my time

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there or the conditions of the workplaces. So three months later my friends Allison and Grace invited me to Bali where they produced, and as soon as I set foot on the island I knew I would live here.

Erika, we wish you both all the best. Stay groovy. :) www.erikapena.com

Tony stanton engaged with fashion designer erika pena to talk love, clothes and a future filled with hope.

Godess-es.

Style by Erika Pena Asst. Stylist Veronika Pagan Make-up Sofia Selina Photographer Dasha Almazova Shot at Ulu Cliffhouse

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interview photo by spencer hansen.

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artist, fashion designer, visual merchandiser ... naomi samara engages the world. the universe does it right back.

NAOMI, how did you grow up, and where?

I spent my childhood in Bali. I'm part of a huge family of crazy characters. Lots of uncles, aunties, cousins, and we used to all live in very close proximity to each other . . . so, there were interesting memories growing up. I am fortunate to have had a painter for a grandmother, and fairly open-minded parents, so creativity was always encouraged. Shipped off to boarding school in Sydney then Chiang Mai, where I established friendships with kids from different cultural backgrounds. Growing up with people who always come and go you get used to taking on new realities. That's why I think Bali would be a perfect environment for a creative hub. This island makes people maintain a youthful openness towards change and new perspectives.

What's your background?

I was in the Bachelor of Fashion Design program at RMIT Melbourne. I discontinued my course and decided to broaden my knowledge through real and versatile experiences. I moved back to Bali ready to take on any job that would require some creativity. After finding myself working for a human resources agency – doing their visuals for presentations – freelance graphic work and my own art projects here and there, I started working for Jenggala Keramik.

You've been working with Jenggala as a visual merchandiser.

What does that entail?

Making sure that our products are visually portrayed at their best . . . maintaining a certain standard for overall displays in our retail outlets. Also sourcing consignment items that complement our products. The structure of the job gives me a lot of room to play. Best part is coming up with the seasonal collections (next one coming out this December). I love being able to get creative within the boundaries of functionality.

You're opening a gallery/studio space in Sanur we hear. Do you paint?

I communicate and express myself best through my paintings. I love finding a personal connection with other people’s art – also really discovering the story and process behind an art piece. That's why the gallery space is a dream project I've wanted to start up for some time. I'm naming the space Swoon . . . aiming to welcome young artists from different cultural backgrounds that have something fun, genuine and thought-provoking to share through monthly group exhibitions. The pieces showcased will be strictly small works not restricted to painting or photography. The space is small and understated, with an interactive working area/painting studio. Opening show will be in

September – a number of great artists are already involved, all contributing works with the same theme . . . I’m excited!

And then there's the fashion line . . .

This is something I've started working on with a friend, Linda. She already has her own clothing and jewellery line, Eleven44. We're collaborating on a small line of printed basics called Ghostbird – interpreting illustrations into detailed bold patterns. The aesthetic is quite ominous, whimsical and bold. Think Hans Andersen circa 2020.

Do you have a head for business?

No, unfortunately. But I'm very lucky to be surrounded by people who do.

What stimulates you, visually?

People fascinate me. Watching body language and awkward social interactions is entertaining. There is so much depth and restraint when it comes to human exchange. Most of my drawings and paintings explore this.

You're currently in the States? What's that all about?

My mother and little sister live in Anchorage, Alaska. I'm visiting for a few weeks, then off to catch up with friends in Washington State. It’s my first time in this part of the world . . . my eyes are loving the overwhelmingly different surroundings.

Tell us a little about what makes you tick? What else are you passionate about?

Apart from the painting . . . cannot tick without my daily excursion to the gym and my three cups of coffee. I also love being a hermit when I'm in nature. Back on Bali it's necessary to escape the chaos and drive up north with my paints and brushes . . . vanish for a few days.

On a bad day, where does your strength come from to carry on?

Doing a little bit of yoga and some cardio helps loads when I get stressed out – stops the brain from over-thinking and really helps me centre myself.

Getting a huge brush and a giant canvas . . . going a little crazy also feels great on a bad day.

And finally, where do you see yourself in five years?

I’d like to have the gallery space established and flourishing as a centre for young artists and quality work. Being based on Bali, doing what I love . . . traveling and getting inspired by different environments. I hope to still be taking on new projects and being humbled by learning and working with amazing people.

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people

Hanalei Swan may be 11 years old but she's packed more bags and trotted the globe far beyond the wildest dreams of many adults. photo: ryerson anselmo for costes portrait.

With 36 countries down and still counting, Hanalei the artist, fashion designer, model and international speaker calls Bali home.

She spreads a positive message of self-love and confidence to other kids and parents through her regular talks and her Instagram page, which has over 46,000 followers.

“I am open to the idea that as a kid I can accomplish many things and through social media I can leave a mark on this world. I post about fashion and me and mom write my posts so they always include a life lesson or an inspiration,” Hanalei says.

The dynamic tween believes that her parents Rhonda and Brian are responsible for her ability to recognise the epic possibilities that life offers the young.

“Most kids are asked what they want to be when they grow up, but I was never asked that. I was asked what I want to do now. This question changed my perspective of what I can do and taught me that I don’t have to wait until I am 20 to become a fashion designer,” she says.

Hanalei admits that being an only child offered her long hours drawing and sketching the beautiful places that she visited.

But it wasn’t until the family arrived in Bali that her design skills became apparent.

“I was discovered by a fashion designer from LA called Karen. We had a power out and went to stay in a hotel. My mom and dad started chatting with Karen and I fell asleep on the sofa in the restaurant.

When mom asked Karen what she did for a living in Bali and she said she was a designer, apparently I

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woke up immediately and said: ‘I’m a designer, too!’

“Karen asked to see my sketch book and said my work was like nothing she had ever seen and that it should be made. It's how I got started,” she says.

Rhonda and Brian built the Canggu studio as Hanalei’s creative space and they have five staff producing collections, which will soon be available through TS Stores as well as outlets in the USA and UK. Hanalei’s lines include kids' wear with funky hoodie dresses and boots that are named after Bali dogs, plus the resort collection. She has a fitness and yoga range in development.

The Australian swimwear label Veve want to stock Hanalei’s resort wear and the child is making customs boots for The Beautiful Girls – the all-male hipster Australian roots band. She is also designing a piece for the ultra-glam androgynous crossdresser, Kyle Farmery.

“I want to create more than a company, I want to create a movement. There is a message behind my collection and that is to inspire people to accomplish many things. With the ways of the internet, kids can make money from making a video about toys and billions of people can see it,” she says.

She wants to bring kids interested in fashion and design into her studio to teach them production skills.

“We can help them with the process of creating a product from the first drawing through to a finished piece.”

As an international speaker, Hanalei has learned at

the knee of her mother – a motivational speaker who builds brands and is an international marketing consultant.

“I run events for entrepreneurs through our Unstoppable Family business and within that is Hanalei’s Unstoppable Kids program. Hanalei devised that program. It teaches kids how to think as entrepreneurs rather than employees and we will develop it to become an online program,” Rhonda says.

Hanalei started speaking at her mother’s events when she was six years old and her talks are based in fashion and art. A personal goal is to deliver a TED Talk.

“We aim to teach kids how to be their best self and to live their best life possible,” Rhonda says with echoes of Oprah.

Hanalei is home schooled with her business HS Styles acting as her classroom.

“I have the opportunity to show Hanalei the world and to create a business. She learns accounting and payrolI. I love to work with her. She’s my favourite client,” says Rhonda.

“I have been to schools in many countries but I feel that I am learning through the real world right now," Hanalei says. "I’m doing math through fashion and measuring and handling the real world issues of running a business.” Having been a catalogue model, she now eschews that world in preference of self-discovery.

“I want to know who I am and I need to develop as a human with a message before returning to the industry.” The world awaits. O.S.

prodigal swan.

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people she survived communism, lost her mother, husband and son, is 77 and a fashion icon. luiz sanchez meets valerie von sobel. image: oscar munar.

The first thing I notice when I meet Valerie Von Sobel is her unbridled level of energy and mental alertness, which she attributes to being constantly curious. “Being engaged keeps you energized,” she says as we drink cold pressed juice. “Having a healthy level of self-respect made me become vegetarian 50 years ago, when I started exercising in earnest.”

She may be a former actress and model, socialite and social philanthropist, yet Valerie is still referred to as a fashionista, and a fashion icon, something she considers a tad derisive. “Being a fashion ‘icon’ is a byproduct of dressing well and being unafraid,” she said. “Whoever coined the term fashionista should have enlightened us as to what that means. To me it sounds like a person fully occupied with appearances and trying too hard.”

On the subject of fashion however, Valerie believes discerning between the mediocre and what is grand is a process of observation and learning what suits each individual. “That can only be taught to those who are curious and frankly, those that are do not need a teacher,” she said. “Anyone who has ever become good at anything usually began with an abiding interest in the subject. When you elicit a compliment on your hat it really says: you look good. Looking good is a combination of many elements, from being well groomed, understanding a bit about hair, makeup and skin, as well as proportions and colour. Using yourself as a canvas is either exciting to a person or it is not.”

Her life goes far beyond fashion. Her passion for social and environmental concerns, her critical view of American politics and her critique on celebrity worship culture say much more about her than the often vapid and superficial world of dress-up. She has lived through more heartbreak and tragedy than most of us could ever cope with. Her life and hardship began in Hungary, where her family escaped the Hungarian communistera regime in 1956 and sought refuge in Canada before moving to the United States.

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Her passion project today is the Andre Sobel River of Life Foundation, which she opened in 2000 in response to her son’s death in 1995. “It took me a few years after his death and my husband’s suicide, and my mother’s death between theirs to find some firm ground under me,” she says. “I wanted to find a mission to honour my son, and it came almost as a revelation on the eve of the new millennium. Could it have been worse than what I had experienced?”

cancer or helping orphaned children has better optics than financially supporting single parents so that they may spend more time with their dying children. Valerie is in a position where she frequently meets with the wealthy upper strata of American society, “and they don’t give a damn,” she says, “even when I write to them personally and in all seriousness, I won’t even get $100 from them. All the money goes into brick and mortar and research. In America it’s about naming opportunities.”

The foundation’s focus is on providing financial aid to single parents whose children are terminally ill. “One of the worst experiences any person can go through is not being able to be there for your children when they need you most, and when your child is dying, the last thing a parent should have to do is take on even more work to pay for their medical bills while their children are alone and suffering. There are hundreds and thousands just in the USA alone who have children like mine who from one moment to the next grew an inoperable brain tumor,” Valerie explained. “It is one of the largest-growing fatal pediatric illnesses.”

Her reaction to social media is no less brutal. A quick glance through Instagram proves her point. “Who is this?” she asks, opening a profile of an Instagram influencer with over five million followers. “What does she do? I mean she looks like an idiot and her commentary is idiotic.” Aside from a nice ass and an eye for well-framed selfie promoting some brand or another, not much. But every photograph has over 100,000 likes and nearly as many comments praising her. “There are new ways of communicating that are anti-thinking. We have forgotten certain things in the name of technology. Everyone wants a stupid dress worn by the duchess of Kaka, but people don’t think for themselves.”

Fund raising is not easy. Using her extensive list of celebrity contacts in America, Valerie has done her best to tug at the heart and purse strings of the rich and powerful and their followers. “It’s not a sexy issue for which to raise funds at all,” she lamented. “I have not been able to combine the two, and I have really tried because I think one should serve the other and it makes a more complete authentic picture of who you are by my age.” Her charity doesn’t have a happy ending. It’s about helping single parents to better cope with the darkest days of their life. There are no smiles, no cures . . . this means donors are more reluctant to help. “This cause is not supported by the public, and will not survive if it isn’t.”

This is sad but true. The brand value of a celebrity is influenced by many factors, one of which is the type of charity a celebrity supports. Typically, feel-good causes with a promised happy ending does far more for a brand than charities such as Valerie’s. Supporting a cure for

“None of us are guilt-free,” Valerie continued. “We take the lowest and shortest roads as human beings, but there are some things that are so blatantly wrong and I have the benefit of perspective. I am nearly 78 years old. I’ve seen a different world where scholarship was honored.

You could go to the small apartment of a scholar and offer them food in honour of those who have spent their entire lives in pursuit of knowledge. This has disappeared, now we just Google the thing and we take the top froth of the layer and suddenly we are experts.”

In the age of the internet, celebrities are made every day. “Many of these people have nothing to offer and do nothing to be admired, but they have millions of followers,” she said. “It’s very fucked up.” www.compassioncantwait.org

"It's all so fucked up."

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people

farah tony stanton caught up with celebrity chef farah quinn between her jaunts around the world to talk golf, old age, and indonesia's favourite sweets. photography: ryerson Anselmo for costes portrait styling: Angie Angorro hair & makeup: redy & ruben, rob peetoom hair spa bali shot on location at the apurva kempinski bali

in step: farah wears top and bottom from kalita, shoes by niluh djelantik.

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Farah Quinn, Indonesia’s beloved kitchen goddess – what the hell have you been up to since we last spoke?

I’ve been doing so many things and been in so many different places. I’ve been travelling a lot and there are some exciting new projects coming up. London for meetings and for fun and now I’m about to leave for New Zealand and Australia. I’m still doing the roadshows for the products I endorse.

You seem to have a special place in the hearts of Indonesia’s TV watching public, why is that do you think?

Well, I’m very flattered. I think it’s because of the way I deliver how I make food. I keep it very simple and I make viewers feel like they are at home with me. My YouTube Channel is getting a lot of views and I think partially that’s because the recipes that I do are also really easy to follow.

What does a chef eat when she’s got no time and is too busy to bother with anything complicated?

When I’m at home I eat a lot of raw food. I love my vegetables, my salads, I can’t get enough of salad. When I have family or friends over that’s when I put in a lot of effort to my cooking. Of course I also cook for my kids.

And what does she cook for that someone special in her life?

Hmm I like to cook comfort food but with a healthy twist. I don’t deep fry anything, especially for people I love. I spent much of my childhood growing up in Sumatra and then later in America, so those two cuisines are the ones I cook most at home.

Type 2 Diabetes is a big problem in Indonesia, how do you change eating habits here for the better, especially among parents with young children?

During my roadshows I always talk to my audience about why kids love vegetables.

You have to start from a very young age and avoid processed food or porridge as their first bite. I always encourage parents to make their own vegetable and fruit purees for their babies so that by the time they grow they are used to all natural flavours. I also talk about ways to make baking healthier.

It’s good to substitute refined sugar with

something that is more natural like gula jawa and brown sugar. Those things are so much better for you – or use honey or just cut down on the sugar. If you follow a recipe just reduce the sugar and see how it is. My passion, my heart, has always been in sweets but I also think about looking after myself.

What is your schedule looking like for the next six months?

For the next three months my schedule is a bit crazy. I'll be traveling a lot because it’s the end of the year; for Christmas and New Year I am always off somewhere and I like to focus on my family during that time. After New Year I start to gear up for work. We’re currently negotiating with a few different companies and networks for some really exciting new projects.

How is your golf game coming along?

My golf game has improved so much!

I stopped playing for a while because I wanted to focus on just being a mother but now I’m back again in the game and have been practicing. Because I travel so much it’s quite hard to schedule a game but I try to go to the range with my coach or wake up super early and play a full round of golf then continue with my super busy day.

So that’s some dedication right there!

What one thing could you not do without in your kitchen?

I cannot live without my KitchenAid. It’s a mixer I use a lot. Honestly it’s a bit overworked as I whip and mix everything.

And what one ingredient?

I would say flaky sea salt because that is the one ingredient I use the most.

Where do you find your strength and will to succeed in life, and what advice would you give to someone looking to become a celebrity chef?

I think it’s important to know what you want, and to have discipline and focus. If you want to become a celebrity chef know that I started from the very, very bottom. So don’t think that everything is glamorous. I started by paying for my own school, working two jobs . . .

After I finished school I did an internship full time and then I worked a second job to make

ends meet. I always knew what I wanted and stayed focused and pretty much went after it.

That got me to where I am now.

Are you involved in any charity work?

I donate regularly to the orphanage in town. I love children so much and it makes me happy when I am surrounded by them and hear their giggles and laughs and see them happy. Also my friend’s son started a charity in Georgia, it’s a beautiful project, he started building a better place for disabled people and I have been involved in that, I have donated and promote the charity to create awareness. Each time there is a request to me from a charity for some sort of contribution such as a personal appearance, dinners etc, I always do my best to be there.

Do you practice any particular way to stay positive?

Yes, you have to be grateful. Whatever ups and downs you have in your life you must always think about being grateful for everything you have. For example, each time I look at my kids it gives me a purpose, they are the ones that give me a reason to be positive. I know I have a big responsibility in raising them.

Where do you see yourself in 20 years’ time?

More relaxed! I would like to dedicate more time to my family, my loved ones, although I will probably still be travelling the world.

But I’d like to just spend time making kue lapis at home, it’s something that I can’t really do these days as it takes so long to make. And then still playing golf. Who knows, maybe I'll be a single handicapper by then.

What’s next for Farah Quinn?

The best is yet to come! Although I can’t say anything about it yet, there are several very exciting projects in the mix. Some are going to be really big projects. Of course food and Indonesian culture will be the main ingredients.

TOP: farah wears dress by windy chandra. Above: lily jean satin silk slip.

Safe travels Farah Quinn. @farahquinnofficial

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64

PROFILE

65

PROFILE fa' out

66

“They’re not everyday sunglasses for everyone.”

The tone is set quickly but don't take it the wrong way – Cast wasn’t launched on sinful pride. With its bold shapes and unique styles – at the crossroads between futurism and vintage inspiration, Cast’s motto is: “Wear it loud and proud”.

The idea was born in Sydney, during an afternoon conversation between model Fahrani Empel and graphic designer Miles Pitt over a beer.

“We’re both sunglass addicts and wanted to offer something never seen before . . . different designs that are unique,” Fahrani says.

The business model and logistics were organised soon after the original brainstorm, and in August 2011 the first collection arrived on the scene in Bali.

“We only had three styles available in two different colours at the beginning – just a small range to test the market,” Fahrani says.

Two catchily named spec collections later, Cast has built a strong image for its handmade eyewear label. You and I are in Love and Goodnight Flamingo quickly gained favour with Hollywood celebrities and underground fashionistas.

“We created very strong editorial products and I believe that is why people love our stuff. We were very lucky as we quickly received a positive response from the style magazines,” Fahrani says.

“But we are still a young company and I don’t want to talk about success yet.”

For those who already know Fa’, it might be no surprise. At 180cm tall, short blue hair, rebellious eyes, piercings, and a body covered with tattoos, the beautiful 28-year-old Indonesian, former international model, isn’t the shy kind.

Her designs are at one with her image – sexy, elegant, with a dash of punk, provocative and eccentric . . . somehow wild. She prefers to describe herself as a determined, self-made woman.

“What is wild?” she asks. “I just carried on the free life I had since I was really young. My parents were never there, nobody was telling me ‘you can't do this, you can’t do that'. I have always figured out things by myself. And because this is the way I live, people assume that it I'm wild. But I've just had the freedom to choose how to live my life.”

Fahrani’s journey began in Jakarta, when she left her bitter-sweet family home to live on her own at the age of 15 in the dynamic Kemang district of the capital. Modelling as early as 13, she managed her money and quickly grew to be independent.

Her career lead her to Hong Kong, where she worked hard for several years before heading to Japan. Two years and a divorce later, she landed in Bali and made the island her home.

Fa’ became the second model to make it out of Indonesia, seen in fashion shows and ad campaigns from Europe to Australia.

“The model with the tattoos,” she stresses – she got her first ink at 16 and countless ones since. She even bought her own gun and, with a laugh, she shows her “party arm” signed by her friends, forever.

The more tatts she adds, the wilder her hairstyles become.

“You can be as crazy as you are and be successful. You don’t have to follow the rules to make it . . . some people tell me they miss the old me. I don’t.”

In the world of modelling, Fa’ got bored quickly and felt she wasn’t learning anymore, and was getting “too old for this” (she was turning 25), so she ran away from the runways and stopped modelling full-time. She needed to challenge herself and push her limits further.

“I like to hit rock bottom and then climb up alone. It has become part of my personality. Sometimes I know I’m wrong, but when people try to correct me, I can’t help saying ‘just let me do it’. You have to make mistakes in life.”

Fa' is the kind of girl who is into everything, a successful meddler. As she started an acting career, she quickly won Best Actress Award at the 2008 Indonesian Film Festival for her role in movie “Radit and Jani” from director Upi Avianto.

“These days I’m becoming very selective. The scripts that are offered to me are always for the same kind of role, I guess because of the way I look now. I wish to embody someone totally different, like a full Muslim girl, for example,” she says.

She likes to play with paradoxes.

Fa’ is a woman of the world, travelling from Berlin to Brooklyn, jumping from one project to another. One day eco-warrior acting against the deforestation in Borneo – and for the record, shaving her hair by herself in the middle of the jungle – another day recording hip-hop music in Los Angeles.

She knows how to let her multiple passions grow, step by step. Music started in her teenage tomboy years, her first steps on stage were during graduation at school, then singing on the track Cewek Rusak (broken girl) with her rap music friends at 16.

She now works with Californian producer Cpen a.k.a. Magnum Larry.

“Music, live concerts, it is the biggest high you can get. It's instant.”

Using her notoriety in the fashion industry and surrounded by a creative network of friends, Fa’ launched a clothing and accessories label three years ago – her first business experience.

“I was really enjoying it but it was taking so much of my time, of my life!” she says.

“I spent eight months in an office, trying to create a full range. I felt like I had no life anymore!”

After an investor fall-out, she decided to focus on eyewear design.

“At the time, I really thought I was done. I could have had new investors, but I didn’t want to repeat another year, if this was all I could get at the end.”

Disillusioned.

“But I still wanted to be creative and use my crazy designs – a few sunglasses samples were already there. I got Miles involved.”

Her energy and confidence, she gets from everything and everyone around her.

“Honestly, my confidence comes from training. It isn’t a natural thing. Being in front of a camera is easy for me, as I started really young. But confidence in the sense of being around people, well, it took me a while.

“I listen more than I speak, I like to read the situation before I say anything. I don’t want to be one of those people who is ignorant about their surroundings. It took me almost 29 years to really feel secure with myself.”

So what’s next?

Well, Fahrani’s future is here and now, and another busy year is on the way: she acted in a new movie to be launched in April; the Borneo DeforestAction documentary will also go out this year; she is planning to release her first E.P. record; and, of course, developing Cast over the next years.

“My philosophy in life? Follow your truth, follow your heart. Follow your guts.

This is where the truth is, right? It is all inside of you. I live my life with my heart, not with my head. You have to follow your dreams.”

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interview

DJ, designer and recording artist, Ozlem Esen is busy redefining cool.

Ozlem – that's an interesting name. Where are you from, and how did you grow up?

I was born in Sydney. My parents migrated from Turkey so I grew up between Sydney and Turkey, and obviously Ozlem is a Turkish name.

What were you like as a teenager – did you drive your mum wild?

Well my dad was a rebel when he was young, and left Turkey in quite a rebellious way, but when I was born he became quite strict and my mom became a kind of mediator between my dad and me. I was the kind of girl who snuck out of windows off to parties, never took no for an answer and all that . . . my poor mum did have to put up with quite a bit.

Did you have friends who were also of mixed heritage – what was it like growing up between Turkey and Sydney?

I grew up in the western suburbs of Sydney in a South American/Italian/Yugoslavian community which was a melting-pot and a very rich experience . . . different food, different music, different languages . . . I grew up exposed to so much, so many different ways of living, almost everyone there was "mixed". Moving between Turkey and Sydney was odd because in Sydney my parents lived in the Bronx of Sydney, which was the only place that had a Turkish community, so it was a poor and a kind of rough suburb, whereas in Turkey it was the reverse – my grandparents had a privileged heritage in Ankara with private schools, drivers and all that, so I suppose that's why I can get along with all walks of life.

What happened after school? Did you get a job in a bank?

I studied hospitality management at college and ended up at the Sydney Intercontinental on the VIP floor as a guest-relations manager; my job was to make sure that rock stars, actors and businessmen had every whim catered for. Eventually serving people got tiring and I figured out there was more that I wanted out of life.

You're a stylist and a singer – tell us about those parts of your life.

Music has always been in my blood. I was lucky enough to have a lot of friends in the music industry which led to opportunities for me to DJ back in the vinyl days . . . with deejaying some friends were doing tours that took me places. I sang on a few albums which eventually lead to my first solo album. Now I’m on my second project with a new band and producers Don Albert and Justin Boyd from South Africa.

Where's your singing career at right now?

We are currently in the studio working on the album. It’s the first time I have stopped everything to focus completely on the music, the album, and shows. It’s been a really exciting process as my producers are working with me all day every day – on songwriting and all the way to image-making. I have never worked in an environment where there has been such a creative flow. Everything seems to fuse together organically, and it’s a lot of fun. I have been very lucky in that the album has generated some interest from the right people already. We have shows booked in South Africa. I am excited to go to Africa.

We're assuming that's where you want to be in a couple of years' time –

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at the top of your game as a performer . . .

To me, the most incredible thing about music is the reaction and energy I receive during shows. Every artist makes music in order to give energy, and receive energy back, when performing. If the top of my game means performing more and more worldwide, I'm up for that.

Give us your most recent line of rap.

Baby played, dirty riffs, And I sang, rotten rhymes, Was all ‘bout sex and cigarettes, Boy we loved killing time . . .

As a stylist, what's your take on fashion, and fashion people?

Considering I don't meet anyone who isn't a fashion designer or a stylist in Bali, including myself, I have a BAGFUL of takes, but I'll give you this one: Bali is progressing to be a fashion Mecca. Anything you can dream up can be made in Bali. I remember years ago there were only a handful of designers, but now I feel like I am driving down Rodeo Drive when I’m in Seminyak. I don't really know what the term "fashion people" means, but for me fashion means wearing whatever you want with confidence. In Sydney I feel like everybody came out of one big sale where there were only five things on offer. When I go out in Bali, there are so many different genres, styles and sub-cultures. I feel people stick to their guns and rock whatever they feel like wearing.

What will we be wearing next year?

Not much, as always.

Okay, some more down-to-earth stuff: what's your most treasured possession?

An “evil eye” that my grandmother used to wear pinned to the left-hand side of her bra. I feel it keeps me protected . . . that and my great-grandfather’s gold gun.

What’s on your iPod these days?

SBTRKT; Little Dragon; Astronomy; State Trooper; some old Culture Club; Warren G; City and Colour; some A. Skillz mixes . . . too much!

When were you last happy?

This morning, opening up the blinds and seeing perfect waves in front of my house, the river on the side and realising this is actually my life!

When were you last sad?

When my uncle passed away, he was one cool guy.

What's the most incredible thing you have ever seen?

It would have to be a toss-up between watching a ballet in Italy – which was set amongst ruins that perfectly framed an actual volcano erupting in the distance – or watching the sun go down over the Bosphorus from a rooftop in Istanbul.

And finally, happy birthday. What does getting older mean to you?

I don't know the difference between getting older and just living life. To me, if anything, it means lapping up every minute of the day and trying to not worry about anything that is out of my control.

wizard oz, by james heal.

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duoview

nina hadinata and stephanie vermaas run one of the coolest concept stores in bali.

70

OK ladies, a quick roundup of who you are . . .

Steph: Hello I'm Steph, I can't stop taking photos, and I swear in my past life I was a desert wanderer from Yucca Valley. I also like anything retro and kitschy.

Nina: Hey, I'm Nina and I'm addicted to good food and good company. I also make parties for a living along with running our shop, This Is A Love Song.

It's a song title isn't it? . . . are you just big PiL fans or does this say something else about what you're doing?

Steph: Not a fan at all! But the name is actually the title of an interview we read in a magazine with John Lennon's son, Sean, and his girlfriend, Charlotte Kemp Muhl.

Nina: And it also represents our unity together and the people we work with. So we thought the title suited and would be the name of the store and clothing.

What are you up to?

Steph: We are in San Francisco . . . yep, a long way from Bali, which is where we do what we do and that is run a store and a clothing line. I also design jewellery, which I call RBRTH. And Nina does . . .

Nina: . . .the same thing. We’re currently on our US holidayslash-work trip, getting all inspired for our new collection and summer series for our clothing brand, Love in Tents.

Your concept store on Jalan Laksmana is filled with quirky fashion wonder – how does it all come together?

Steph: We wanted something different. When we started, stores were very minimalistic and pretty but all selling the same thing, just in a different space. We had the space because it used to be Nina's bar – Home Café – which closed down because of a psycho neighbour (god bless her) so we basically turned that into a store. We only had two thousand dollars so we had to spend wisely. Luckily we had a hell of a lot of time which we spent searching for recycled wood and alternative ways to make the interiors and displays. At the time no one in Bali was using toilet pipes as racks or collaging old wood and drilling them into the walls. We even got a bunch of old barrels and made a jewellery display.

Nina: We didn’t plan it. It all sort of pieced together day by day with things we liked individually and collectively, so this is our love song.

How do you pick the people you work with?

Steph: Some were already friends to begin with and others we became friends with through working together. Either way it's got to feel good to make it work. Right now we have a really good team behind us and we feed off each other’s creativity . . . and have so much fun at the same time that it doesn't ever feel like work.

Nina: We kind of picked each other. Over the past couple of years I found myself surrounded by very talented people – especially when it came to the local brands, and realised there was no platform for these brands in Bali, so it was only natural for us to bring together a group of people that we already loved and admired.

What's important to you in life?

Steph: Family, love, travel and a pair of matching socks! Oh, food is in there too.

Nina: Family in every form. Whether it's blood or a good mate.

What defines cool for you?

Steph: Not trying to be cool is cool for me. Just be yourself.

Nina: Someone who's comfortable in her/his own skin, not in the outfit they chose that day.

What does money mean to you?

Steph: It's in my wallet but it always wants to leave so I don't like it too much. But we always work out our differences.

Nina: I would like to say that it doesn't mean much, but the truth is it's got to mean something, right? I don't need all the money in the world . . . just enough to comfortably look after myself and the people that I love.

We know the saying “Show Business" – without the Business there's no Show. Are you financially savvy?

Steph: I suck. But Nina's Chinese sign is a rat and they're good with keeping the numbers in order so she's in charge of that. Phew.

Nina: I am all about the business and will never leave you without a show.

How do you see yourselves at 50?

Steph: I'll get back to you in 25 years.

Nina: Happy.

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change

sayno2plastic Melati, you and your sister Isabel were just 12 and 10 years old respectively when you started Bye Bye Plastic Bags. In what ways do you think being young worked for you?

When we started BBPB you have to remember we had no business plan, no strategy and no funding, but what we did have was a clear vision and LOTS of passion. This was definitely an innocent and maybe naïve way of thinking like children. To be honest, I think our age has been our greatest tool. It’s served as a powerful voice and a wake-up call for the older generation. We made things happen because “If not us, then who? If not now, then when?” After all, we kids may be only 25% of the world’s population but we are 100% of the future.

What are the biggest challenges you’ve faced and how have you overcome them?

We’ve had many ups and downs during our years campaigning. Our team sometimes struggled with long-term commitments because we wanted change NOW. And Bali is a very transitory island, so there were many people who came and went. Our funding was and still is a challenge, but we manage because people always want to help. And lastly, I guess connecting it to the first point of long-term commitment, it's been a challenge to balance the agenda of a teenager and that of a changemaker.

BBPB has gone on to become a national and international movement with teams in over 35 locations across the globe. In your opinion, what are some of the key factors that have made the campaign so successful?

We made it really fun for other young kids to join.

We created a handbook or starter kit that took them through a journey of what it was going to be like, including the do’s and don’ts and how to’s. Also I really feel it’s the power of the younger generation.

We know we can’t wait until we graduate high school to take action. It also really helps to have a network and a team of like-minded people. The 35 global team leaders are one of my favorite aspects of BBPB because they give me energy.

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melati & isabel wisjen

You also founded the One Island, One Voice movement. Can you tell us a bit about that and the KOMITMEN campaign?

One Island One Voice was created because we were building so much momentum with BBPB that we wanted to ensure everybody working towards the same or similar goals could use that momentum.

Today OIOV is a people-powered movement that acts as an umbrella for like-minded organisations in waste management or prevention. With One Island One Voice, we quickly learned that we couldn’t just stop at saying no to single-use plastic bags. What about the straws, the bottles and the cups? So this is where the KOMITMEN campaign came in. We launched it in July 2018 and approached Bali-based businesses to join the movement. To date we have over 400 locations that have signed the KOMITMEN and made goals to eliminate single-use plastics.

You must be elated that the governor of Bali has now banned single-use plastics on Bali. What are your thoughts on that?

As you can imagine, our team is so happy! Finally after six long and hard years of campaigning, and thanks to the effort of many, Bali is where it is today.

Of course there is still a lot to do, but our team at Bye Bye Plastic Bags is ready to do our best where we are needed. The consistency of implementing the regulation has us worried and how the right alternatives (and which ones) will be introduced.

This is a great opportunity for young Indonesian entrepreneurs to jump on.

In regards to the green movement, where would you like to see Bali in five years?

We really believe that Bali can be an example for the rest of Indonesia and the world. We’re off to a good start with this ban on single-use plastic bags, but what’s next? We’ve learned that over the course of six years, the long-term solution is waste management, separation and collection. Hopefully in the next five years we’ll have that sorted out and the consumption of single-use plastics will be decreased significantly. Why not go back to banana leaves? Or become a hub for sustainable and zero-

waste lifestyles? Also we need to stop building over our nature, create more national parks and preserve Balinese traditions.

You’re constantly on the go campaigning and sharing your message around the world. Where are you now and what are you working on?

Right now we’re home in Bali. Bel is in her 11th year at high school and I’m on my GAP year. I start filming my documentary in a month and will be travelling to eight corners of the world to find other young changemakers. We’ve been travelling a lot, but for now we’re enjoying the super sunsets on Bali as much as we can.

Do you have any big plans for 2019?

Actually yes! We’ve been working on something really exciting for the past three years, and it’s all about youth empowerment. We’re about to launch YOUTHTOPIA, so fingers crossed and wish us good luck. More good things to come in 2019!

Even though you’ve been successful in getting your message out, we know it can’t be easy fighting the good fight. What keeps you motivated and inspired on the tough days?

Yes, it can be hard and lonely sometimes. I love seeing and learning about other people’s projects and ideas, so that keeps me hopeful. And if that doesn’t do the trick, then a kelapa muda and Netflix will help me over it.

What advice would you give to other young people who want to get involved in making the world a better place?

We’ve learned so many lessons, and that makes us want to share so many things. The most important one though is to find your passion. What is it that you really, really, really care about? What gets you excited?

Find that one thing and go for it. Don’t forget the power of a team around you. Surround yourself with like-minded people to help you take your idea to the next level. And lastly, don’t forget to have fun. www.byebyeplasticbags.org

melati, left, and isabel. image: oscar munar.

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interview

lean, green, and not so mean.

74

elora

ART ON THE BIGGEST CANVAS . . . and building for a better world.

Spiral swerves and sweeping curves,

and was supportive of Elora’s early

saw there weren’t going to make

multi-storey mandalas, helix-bound hold-

artistic endeavours. A family affair.

sense for very much longer – just the

extravagant structural foundation work

way we use stuff and dispose of it,

whereby massive bamboo supports

ups...these are terms you might expect

After school it was off to art college

This practise leads to some

to be used describing a Maurits Escher

in Boston where Elora graduated

people will look back at us and think

hold up houses that can be anything

piece until, that is, you visit Elora Hardy’s

with flying colours but upon leaving

we’re nuts, or maybe criminal.

up to five storeys and appear to be

Green Village project near Mambal.

was confronted with something that

Large, luxurious houses built

confronts most youngsters when they

battle – to do something “green” in

graduate . . . “what do I do now?”

fashion.”

entirely from bamboo and other natural materials in a setting straight out of Lord

“I knew that I had skills to offer

“I wasn’t able to fight the fashion

Elora returned to Bali in early 2010

floating on the sides of the river valley.

“Over the past year or so we’ve built five house and have three more in process,” Elora says.

of the Rings – with vistas overlooking

and I wanted to do something

– 14 years after she’d left – with no

the Ayung River – are furnished with

creative in the world with my drawing

thought about starting a business or

intricate latticework made by slicing

freeform shapes, also using bamboo

or my other art skills,” she says.

running a business but as it turned out

thinly the bamboo lengthwise; rooms

she arrived at a time when the Green

made of rattan basketry, and walls and

constructional foundations.

Elora picked up internships here and

Internally the residences feature

It’s pretty impressive.

there before happening upon fashion

Village project was having management

shoji screens from organic, handmade

Canadian-born Elora is the

designer, Donna Karan, who threw her

problems. So she put her hand up.

paper. No two places are the same.

daughter of John Hardy – renowned in the jewellery industry and as

into the deep end of the fashion world.

“I ended up in New York and

“The (Green Village) company that

Chunky sliced granite adorns work

was floundering closed so I opened my

surfaces. Copper bathtubs and shower stalls round out the earthy feel.

being the creator of Ubud’s green

wandered around a bit and got a job

company, P.T. Bamboo Pure, and retained

school, which also features unique

with an interior design firm . . . but

a lot of the skilled workers . . . and then

bamboo structures. In many ways the

that was terrible . . . and I was rescued

opened Ibuku which is the international

bamboo is a feeling that it might

Green Village is the evolution of the

by meeting Donna Karan,” she says.

design arm of what I do,” she says.

succumb to environmental and

Green School building concepts.

“She asked me to pick up some

Green Village is the main project

One aspect of building with

entomological decay over time . . .

Elora is very much a child of

fabric for her . . . she’d thrown out

handled by the two companies but

“We treat the bamboo with

Bali having completed her primary

all the prints and patterns for that

on the design side there have been

natural a salt solution – we have our

education here. She remembers the

season – two weeks before a show.

commissions for furniture from the

own formula – it’s based on the best

likes of Richard Branson amongst

known, tried and true, treatment

others. Unfortunately his lovely dining

used in the world,” Elora says.

days when Ubud had a functional system of traffic and transportation!

But for higher schooling she went

“Donna asked me if I could paint on fabric and I said I’d try.

“So there I was, in New York with

table probably succumbed to the

“We test the material and make sure

to an arts-based boarding school in

dresses (featuring my artwork) on

fire that burnt down his house on a

that it has absorbed around five times

California – returning to Bali for holidays.

a runway which was pretty cool.”

Caribbean island – the billionaire’s

the amount that is usually acceptable.”

“I was miserable most of the time,” she says.

“I got into the school with a

Elora stayed with Donna Karan, and later DKNY, for the following five years either painting or sourcing materials

mother being saved from harm at the time by Kate Winslet.

The bespoke furniture with its

scholarship – because throughout

and technically doing all the prints

organic forms graces the Green Village

my childhood I had already been

and patterns for both of those lines.

villas which, in their turn, take on unique

doing arts and crafts compulsively

But with success came an increasing

shapes according to the topography of

around the villages of Bali – and got

sense of dissatisfaction with what was

the land upon which they are built.

a really good art education there.”

going on around her in the world.

Elora’s mother, Penny, also had

“I felt like it wasn’t doing it for me

a jewellery business on the island

– that it wasn’t fulfilling,” she says.

and, Elora says, is also very artistic

“I thought a lot of the things I

“We don’t do any ground leveling

Then we go for a walk around the property to check out these quite striking structures. I think to myself: “I could live in one of these . . .” . . . too bad buddy, you should have taken up rocket science, not writing . . . ibuku.com

to accommodate our structures so they must fit in with what ever contours the land has in its natural state,” Elora says.

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people

Sukma, what’s it like doing business in Bali as an Indonesian woman?

Of course it’s very challenging. Creating a successful business is hard anywhere but even more so in Bali and again even more so if you are a woman. You have to be tough to run a business here in order to deal with the ups and downs. It’s fun but can also be scary sometimes, and I’m often pumped with adrenaline and then so happy when I solve a big problem or do great work for a client. It’s also important to me that my business is in Indonesia, because it means I can directly contribute to my country. I love paying taxes!

Growing up – what advice did your mother and father give you that you found useful later in life?

My dad told me three things. Be honest. Be useful. Get a good education. He taught me these three values from a very young age. He would say: “Always be honest to yourself and to others, wherever you are, and everything will work out for you.” He also taught me that your worth in this world depends on how much you can contribute. He said: “Be useful, otherwise you might as well not exist.” He wanted me to do something meaningful and valuable with my life, where I can help not just myself but also everyone around me. And of course, education is incredibly important if you want to get on. I could not do what I do today without studying hard and learning new things. That my dad valued education so much drove me to finish a master’s degree and I still read daily even now.

You left home when you were 14 to pursue your independence … how did your parents react when you told them you wanted to leave?

Yes, I wanted to leave and go out into the world. The village in Sumbawa where I grew up is beautiful and the people are lovely, but there are not many opportunities. So by the time I was 14 I had made up my mind. I was going to leave and I thought, “If I am going to leave anyway, why not right now?” So I tried to speak with my dad even though I already knew the answer.

I said: “Papa please, I want to talk to you but you must first promise not to get angry.” He promised. And of course he had to break the promise, he was so shocked when I told him I wanted to leave. We are both very strong willed and didn’t want to find a compromise.

I said: “If you let me go, I promise I will be a good student, always pay attention and get good grades. If I have to stay here, I don’t want to go to school anymore!” He said: “OK! Better stay here and be stupid then.” So I said: “If you don’t let me go, I will be so sad that I won’t eat anything anymore.” And he said: “OK! Don’t eat then. But stay here!”

This went on for a while and we couldn’t find a compromise, but I was still determined. So I decided to just run away when he was on a business trip. He was heartbroken but then forced to negotiate. Luckily he has forgiven me for that and we now have a very close relationship. He is my best friend and greatest adviser until this day. I love him, I want to make him happy and proud of me.

How did it shape who you are today?

I learned independence and that I can rely on myself to find a solution to any problem.

That’s a very valuable asset in my business because my clients often come to me with big problems that I have to help them fix. I also learned courage. I mean it was a big step to just run away, but it took even more courage to not quit and just go home. I faced so many challenges living on my own that were really scary and overwhelming at the time.

Going to the hospital by myself when I was sick, managing my own money, building a life in a new city … I learned a lot and I learned that I can take on anything.

hotel industry in Bali. I met my business partner Alex for the first time when I was out with my girlfriends. After he realized that I was very familiar with how business works here, he started asking me for advice and we shared knowledge often. He’s a super smart guy and it was fun to be able to work with him. In the end he suggested we start a consulting business together, but I refused. I was happy with my job and life at the time. He was persistent though and in the end he convinced me that we could test each other and that we could test the business. We started to do some pro bono consulting for our friends and they became our first clients. They also referred us to other companies and our business took off fast. We were growing so quickly, it was exhilarating. I had no choice but to take a chance, leave my job and focus on Actual Synergy full time in 2017.

Now we do finance and HR consulting, legal and taxes, management set up, training and recruitment for some of Bali’s leading companies.

What does Actual Synergy do differently to other business consulting and accounting firms in Bali?

We have a strong company culture; our clients are like our best friends or even like family to us. Their business is our business. Their problems are our problems. We listen closely and we have a very personal approach to both consulting and all our other services. We are a high tech company with very streamlined processes, so we can spend less time on administration and paperwork and more focus on client’s need and direct interaction with our clients. I believe that each business is unique, and so are the issues and problems they face.

What are the biggest growth areas today for business in Bali?

The hospitality industry and everything related to it. The safest bet is accommodation.

If you have property, open a hotel, build villas, even guesthouses, it’s currently almost impossible to fail. F&B is also growing fast, but much harder to get right. So unless you really know what you are doing, we advise against it.

When you first meet clients are they surprised to discover that you’re the boss of a business consulting firm?

Yes, sometimes it’s funny. New clients that come to us for the first time often keep asking “No, I want to talk to Sukma!”, because they think I’m just the secretary. They underestimate me until they work with me and see how good I am at what I do. So yes, it’s a challenge. We have many clients who are not sure if they can trust me at first, because I’m so young and don’t look like a typical business owner. The solution is actually easy, we just let our results speak for themselves. Sometimes we even say “let us do our work, you can pay later”. And they pay happily because our results are always the best you can get in Bali.

What drives you to succeed in business?

I want to be useful. Like my dad taught me my whole life. I want to be of use to my people and then I want to contribute to society and the world. That’s the most important thing for me. And of course I want to make and enjoy money, have a good, comfortable and fun life without depending on anyone’s help for it!

What do you do when you are not working?

I meet my close friends, go to the gym and I take hip hop dance classes. I also read and meditate a lot. When I have the time I love to enjoy and explore Bali, find new beaches and waterfalls. It’s such a beautiful place and I cannot imagine living anywhere else. www.actual-synergy.com

Tell us about your company Actual Synergy, how it started and what it does?

It kind of happened by accident. Before I started Actual Synergy I was working in the 76

problem solver Sukma Nirmala Latief brings love and determination as the boss of one of bali's leading business consulting companies. words: tony stanton.

Image: ryerson anselmo for costes portrait.

"our results speak for themselves."

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causes veterinary paramedic Femke den Haas haS been fighting animal cruelty in indonesia for nearly two decades. finally the tide is turning. words: ozlem esen mell. photo: pepe arcos.

not all heroes wear capes.

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Femke, how long have you been in Indonesia and how did you end up here?

I came to visit my parents in Jakarta when I was 17 on a break from school, then continued my travels to the East Kalimantan Orangutan Rehabilitation project where I volunteered for six months. I returned to Indonesia in 2002 after I was invited to get involved in the setting up of Indonesia’s first wildlife centre, which eventually became a network of six. At that time I thought I would stay for a year maybe, but here I am. The work we did at that time was much needed and I felt very useful.

What is Jakarta Animal Aid Network (JAAN)? How did it start?

After I set up the rescue centre network I realised there was a need for an organization that could effect real change. I’d come to realise that although there were many animal aid organisations, none of them really worked together, with everyone wanting to be the captain … which is why the ships kept sinking, or in my case, why there was a lack of coordination in helping to protect animals. I wanted to set up an organisation that would work as a proper network, connecting people and organisations to stand together to tackle the major issues we are facing – animal welfare and the illegal wildlife trade – through direct animal rescue operations, through education, through lobbying the decision-makers and, when needed, through protest. JAAN now works throughout Indonesia and on an international level with #CombatWildlifeCrime, fighting habitat loss and animal cruelty. We run programs and rescue operations that include raptor and eagle rehabilitation and release in the Thousand Islands, dancing monkey rescue and rehabilitation in Bandung and Jember, sea turtle protection in Flores and other operations in Sumatra and Jakarta.

We also have a dog rescue centre in Jakarta set up by my colleagues and co-founders, but I mainly concentrate on the wildlife division @wildlifeaidnetwork. We are supported in Europe by wildlifewatchdogs.com How have attitudes to what you do changed in Indonesia from when you arrived here?

Standing up for animals was something that was completely new to this country when I first arrived.

Animal Welfare wasn’t understood and most people didn’t take me seriously. The animals we confiscated from the illegal wildlife trade would often end up back on the market due to corruption. Wildlife was seen as a product to provide an income for the country – when we set up our first rescue center next to the international airport, animals that were being smuggled wouldn’t be confiscated and dealers would get away with just a ‘fine’. It was also extremely hard to get any financial and technical support for the work we did. We were receiving all kinds of animals, including species I never even knew existed. It was all DIY. I had to treat them, with the team working around the

clock to keep the very fragile victims of the illegal wildlife trade alive and healthy on very limited resources. As a veterinary paramedic I could provide medical care for confiscated animals but I learned so much in the field in those years because I had no choice but to do it all myself.

There was no one else. I sought advice from people all over the world about how to care for the different and special animals in our centres in order to ensure their wellbeing.

We had a small team, all locals, all super dedicated but with no background in animal husbandry. But we did it, we relocated crocodiles, we released eagles, we treated snakes … now we have a huge network of local volunteers and people from as far as Papua report to us about animal abuse, or animals traded. People are rising up. Animal welfare is important in Indonesia, and has now been recognized by the government as a priority.

What is the one thing in Indonesia you would change if you had the power?

I would build ethical tourism in areas where the forests are now being cut and destroyed. These forests are so pristine, so beautiful and so full of life they are the best assets for this country. People from far and wide will want to visit and learn about the endemic and beautiful animals that live within. Instead of allowing companies to run riot and destroy these forests and wipe out whole eco systems for their profit, the country should keep them intact. In the long run this would really benefit the surrounding communities and the animals that live within the forests.

How did you make the transition from loving and wanting to help animals to becoming a woman who lives her life serving them?

I can’t stand injustice. I always felt like I wanted to take action and once I realised that what I do is making a positive change, it became my life.

Do you think part of the problem is the idea that most people are unaware or desensitized to the fact that animals feel pain, loneliness and isolation when in captivity? Why does it continue?

Yes that’s precisely the problem. People lack compassion, people don’t realise that what’s happening affects us all, even if it is indirectly. When I see an animal, or a human suffering, and can reach out to help … why would I not do that?

What does an average week look like for Femke?

I have no average week. My agenda changes by the hour as we respond to animals in need.

Tell us about some of the most heartbreaking / heartwarming rescues you have been involved in.

We have done so many rescues in extreme and amazing situations … I can share a few:

The first birds we rescued back in 2004 while at the newly founded rescue center next to the airport in Jakarta were being smuggled out of the country inside PVC pipes.

These young Brahminy kites were heading to Saudi Arabia and fortunately we had the chance to nurse them back to health and release them after a long period of intensive care and rehabilitation. Seeing them soaring the skies was beautiful and the start of our long-term eagle rehabilitation program through which we rehabilitate the endangered mascot of Jakarta, the Brahminy kite (Haliastur Indus). In 2014 we received a plaque of honour from the President for our work in protecting the Brahminy kites of Kotok Island.

Siamangs also have a special place in my heart as they are highly intelligent primates and very sensitive. Sadly, people like to keep the babies as pets and will kill the mother to obtain the young. The babies often get shot at and have air rifle pellets in their bodies … we always have to check all babies for pellets and often surgery is required. Once we rescued an older male I called Grandpa. He had been captive for so many years in a small cage and his face looked so grim and so depressed. I would walk him daily in the center, where we had a few trees he tried to climb.

When he finally managed to climb up, he looked at me very proudly as if to say, ‘I am a Siamang gibbon again, thank you’. I will never forget that look on his face.

With the support of then Governor, now president, Joko Widodo, we managed to ban dancing monkeys in Jakarta and through the years we have rescued over 250 of them.

The first mask I took off a monkey’s face felt like a huge victory and we are very proud that we could stop this brutality.

At the Melka Hotel in Bali, six dolphins were kept under horrific conditions to allow tourists to swim with them.

It’s quite obvious that all dolphins in captivity suffer tremendously, as they are kept in chlorinated water and are starved to perform and do tricks and entertain people.

They also have their teeth removed, which means they cannot survive in the wild. For many years we collected evidence about the poor treatment of these dolphins at the hotel, and after the death of a dolphin named Gombloh the authorities requested us to relocate those remaining. With my greatest supporter the Dolphin Project we relocated the dolphins to a large sea pen, where they now thrive. This project is very new and the dolphins are now undergoing rehabilitation. Being able to lift them out of those chlorinated swimming pools and return them to their home, the ocean, was an amazing feeling for everyone involved. www.jakartaanimalaid.co

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people

real-housewife-turned-hotelier sally bloomfield overcame adversity to fill her life to the brim.

Sally, your Instagram bio says that you’re a mother, hotelier, designer and … comedian … so now you have to tell us a joke!

Sure can . . . but you forgot that 'Supermodel' is also on my bio! So anyway, someone asked Jim: “Now that you are retired, do you still have a job?” He replied: “Sure do. I am my wife’s sexual adviser." Somewhat shocked they asked: “I beg your pardon, but what do you mean by that?" He said: “My wife told me that when she wants my fucking advice, she will ask for it!”

Seriously though you always seem so joyful in photographs. What’s your secret?

Alcohol. I always ply myself before taking a shot (pardon the pun).

You’re well known on the island … what brought you here in the first place?

I have been coming to Bali for about 35 years (obviously I was two when I first discovered the island – wink wink) and moved here in 2012. I now divide my time between here and Melbourne. I introduced my husband to Bali about 17 years ago and he fell in love with the island and the people and we decided we would move here one day and hopefully open a hotel. Bloomfield opened November 2017.

Unfortunately he passed away before our dream was realised.

You’re known in Australia primarily for your appearance on The Real Housewives of Melbourne.

How was that as an experience?

I had a ball filming the show. I was already building the hotel and had two other businesses at the time so I was kept pretty busy. It was a great way to take my mind off the fact I had just lost Ian. I was welcomed into the RHOM family and got along with most of the girls, well that was until our trip to Mexico where it all went downhill with one particular

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cast member, but that was bound to happen at some stage of shooting and I took it all in my stride. I had too much going on to let it bother me. It said more about the other cast member than it did about me.

Did you at any point think: what the hell am I doing on this show?

No, not at all. I am made of pretty tough stuff and I try not to regret decisions that I make. You just have to be your authentic self and let the chips fall where they may. I think in the end I was portrayed pretty well and it was a great experience for me.

Would you ever consider making your own reality TV show?

Ha, no thanks. I think one series is enough. Then again, never say never!

Do you ever miss the magazine game? You were Melbourne editor of Harper’s Bazaar for a time.

Yes, I was the Melbourne Editor for three and a half years! The hotel industry is my passion now. I will always look back on my time at Harper’s as a great experience and I had a ball while I was working there.

It also gave me an insight in to how that industry works, which is helpful where I am now.

Do you consider yourself famous?

To be honest I forget that I was on the show until someone mentions it. Had I not had any other interests before filming perhaps it would be my world, but day to day I am still surprised when someone comes up to me to talk about Housewives.

I have to admit though that I do love a little taste of fame and it’s great for business!

How’s the hotel doing?

The hotel is fantastic and I am surrounded by such an amazing team. We are currently looking to open

another one and possibly two in the coming year and beyond. We have a good formula and I would like to see it grow and become a great boutique brand.

I would like to do a beachside hotel and possibly a more jungle experience and then perhaps branch outside Bali…

What’s the best thing about being in the hotel business? What’s the worst?

The best thing is definitely conceptualizing, designing and building the business and watching it grow. The worst is how many other hotels you are competing against and those pesky volcanoes that keep erupting!

What is it that keeps driving you forward?

I have two beautiful boys – Nico who is 16 and Jules who is 10 – and they are my motivation on a daily basis. I want to inspire them and let them know after a terrible loss that life does go on and for them to see that their Mum is a survivor and I am following my passion in life.

And finally … what’s next for Sally Bloomfield?

Possibly filming the fifth season of Housewives, opening a new hotel and writing a book. I started a book some time ago and when time permits I would like to finish it. I also have a fashion/accessories brand that is chugging along. I think that will do for now!

Thanks for your time!

You are most welcome. www.bloomfieldbali.com @sallybloomfield

field of dreams.

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sounds around madonna made her do it. tony stanton meets muso lady flic. image: ryerson anselmo for costes portrait

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Lady Flic, tell us about the time you fell out of a tree.

Lol ok. I was about 15 years old and a big cricket fan. One day I climbed one of the big trees surrounding the local cricket ground so I could watch a game, I was up pretty high and unfortunately the branch I was holding onto was rotten and snapped off in my hands so I toppled down head first, well hand-first actually. I landed on my left hand and my elbow took all the weight and got pretty mashed up. Cut to two or three years later, finishing high school, I got an accident compensation cheque in the mail, NZ$8,008 dollars. I think within a week I moved out of home and bought turntables. I'm not sure I would have become a DJ otherwise, hard to say! It definitely set me on track. A happy accident, it's one of the themes of my life.

Seriously though, has your life always been so ... unexpected?

Well, I think I've always just gone with the flow, never really had that 'plan for the future' mindset, so there is always space for crazy. For sure some mad things have happened which have led me to unexpected places and states. In hindsight, there is always some kind of universal message or lesson, some unexpected enlightenment that I always used to learn the hard way, but am slowly learning to recognise before I break another bone or brain cell.

We’ve done our research ... you’re a Kiwi who used to sneak into clubs underage, correct?

Busted! Back in Wellington it was quite loose, we were clearly very underage, sometimes they just made us sign a piece of paper to get in, I guess that got them off the hook somehow. There were a couple of great club nights, and also a load of raves in big warehouses on the waterfront and other random locations. Eye-opening for sure.

I looked at the DJ in awe, like holy crap that looks like a ridiculous amount of fun.

What was the first song or track that made you just think ... wow, music, that’s it for me...

Probably something by Madonna. I think she was my first musical obsession.

And Bali has been home now for, what, 10 years? How has the music scene here changed?

Yes! Came for a friend's wedding, and here I still am, it's a funny old life.

The scene has changed dramatically. For the better, and for the worse, loads more good stuff and way too much of the other. It's a fickle place in terms of events, people are spoiled with what they get offered, which makes it hard for promoters to bring something unique and credible and make any kind of profit. So currently we are seeing a lot of the same. Bali's music scene is still very young and doesn't have a real solid foundation, so things just pop up, aren't supported then they disappear. Bali's transience is its blessing and curse. My wish is that people just dig a little past the gimmick or flavour of the month and find the quality, because it is there.

What’s the best venue on Planet Bali right now. Let's go for Top 3...

Vault is a proper club that filled a gap in the right place and time in Bali with great sound. I always have fun in there. La Brisa - the setting and ambience are awesome, and they have been doing some nice bookings. W Hotel - I've been dj-ing there recently and just loving the vibe, the sound, the view, the staff. It's still one of the most beautiful venues in Bali.

What sets your sets apart from other Djs? How to answer this question without sounding like a wanker? Ha ha. Well, I guess versatility and flow ... making connections that others might not, due to having such a deep well to draw from. I like walking the line of bringing people joy and confusing them.

When we were setting this interview up and discussing photography you were like ‘please don’t make me shoot again!’ Is it so traumatic to stand in front of the lens?

I'm one of those introverted extroverts. It's like 'yes I want to be the centre of attention but give me space, goddammit'. It's just not my comfort zone. And Bali is full of photographers, it's one of my pet hates, you're out and about and there's someone with a lens in your face, ugh, now I have to think about how I look when I'm just trying to chill. Anyway I'm totally in love with the photos Ryerson took, and beyond happy that I don't need to shoot again for at least five years.

Ok here’s an easier question. What’s your go-to get out of jail free track to get a party moving?

I always go back to Alexander Robotnik - Problemes D'amour. The amount of times I've played it, I would usually be so over it, but something about it just gets me every time.

What genre of music makes you want to vomit?

Most EDM and mumble rap. I find it pretty offensive and can’t be around it.

I just don’t understand it. Call me old fashioned, (actually I’m not) but there is so much good music out there right now it boggles my mind that people settle for this absolute drivel.

How do you stay ahead of the curve?

By trusting myself and going with what makes me feel good.

When was the last time you were happy?

I'm high on life in general right now, and I don't plan on coming down anytime soon. Even though Bali has its issues, I feel so blessed to live here. www.ladyflic.com www.mixcloud.com/ladyflic

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people

Mary, where are you from and how did you grow up?

My roots are from Zimbabwe, my childhood years were spent in Essex, England, and my late teenage years were spent in Sydney, Australia. I grew up on three continents as a child so by the time I reached my teens I was excellent at coping with change. As children, we simply “do” life and go with the flow. I had a culture-rich upbringing from a fiercely independent and intellectual mother who holds three university degrees from three continents. She motivated me and my brother to grow up without boundaries and to think beyond borders. The confusion only became apparent when I started traveling solo at 19. Having a passport that says home but a heart that feels differently.

What’s important to you in life?

Several years ago whilst living in London I realized I was accumulating more things that didn’t really matter or speak to me on a spiritual level. I came to realize I value freedom and flexibility over the ability to just earn more and possess more. So I left life in the city and moved to rural Australia where I spent a couple of years reflecting deeply.

That helped me create a blueprint for the life I live currently and I only seek out ways of living accordingly. I embrace aspects of simplicity and other powerful concepts of detachment. This is also reflected in the way I have set up my own micro-business so I can have more control over what work I do. Life is going, as it should, more calmly.

So you have decided to live life on your own terms?

It would be fair to say that I was born to live on my own terms. That seems to be the major lesson in this incarnation. I was the sort of child who at a very young age could spot hypocrisy. Adults could make me do what they wanted me to do, but they could never make me agree. I was the one in charge of that, and I always knew it. Things that lead to me not living on my terms, I am somehow made blind to.

What’s the most interesting or quirky job you ever had?

From a young age my mother discovered that I had a talent for singing so I had the opportunity to go to stage school. I fell in love with performing arts so when I turned 16 I took myself to London and auditioned for a job as a singer in a band. This became my first paid job . . . singing in a band at The Firehouse in South Kensington. A couple of years later I realized this wasn’t the path for me so one day I stepped off the stage and hung up my singing hat. It was a challenge leaving everything I’d ever known behind to start over but after so many years of performing I was happy to set my sights on a new path. This became my first lesson in detachment and learning to let go.

How do you earn a living today?

I never used to consider myself an entrepreneur, but the term was a vague resemblance of an ideology that resonated with me. I’m a free spirit and this is reflected in the way I earn a living. I always knew my work would be creative as art has always been a large part of my life. When I was a child, I would draw all the time and I learnt crafts passed from my grandmother to the matriarch in my family. By the age of five I could crochet, knit and sew. Little did I know this would play a huge role in my adult life. Fabrics and metals are my medium of choice these days. Ten years ago I started creating wearable art and set up my own brand selling clothing and jewellery. This opened up a whole new world that I’ve been exploring ever since. With a lot of hard work and passion, this is how I earn a living.

What’s the best thing about living in Bali?

To me Bali is always a dichotomous mix. A home and an escape, a place where days

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can pass in an instant, or draw out interminably. To be at one moment surrounded by such beauty and tranquility and only moments later stuck in traffic behind a ceremonial procession. This is what I love. This island mirrors my love for life - the colourful, the random and the diverse. I travel very often and also spend long periods in Australia.

While I’m away of course I enjoy where I am, but I also love returning. Bali feels like home, for now at least.

Tell us about your tattoos.

I believe tattoos are secrets of the spirit revealed on our skin. I have never planned a tattoo as you can’t plan magic, it just happens. The vibrations of the universe have brought to me beautiful souls who have played important roles in my life. These are the people from whom I have had the honour of marking my skin. This has allowed the process to always flow so easily and the rest is love. I believe a great tattoo is one done without any concern for time, money or competition. This art is ancient and sacred, and I would hope the way I carry my tattoos reflects and honours that.

Do you get a lot of requests from artists that are drawn to you?

I am not sure what would quantify ‘a lot’, but I am fortunate to have had many opportunities. I’m very particular when it comes to modelling. I don’t consider myself a model but I do love to create and capture moments with other creatives. This has led me to working with amazing photographers and collaborations with like-minded people from all over the world. And for years now I have been receiving beautiful artworks from artists. In a society that has come to see busy-ness as a badge of honour, these artworks have really humbled me. Many of these artists do not know me personally, but have taken the time to create these artworks of me. So a few years ago I decided I would honour these artists by creating a gallery and showcasing these pieces they have created. To date I have collected over a 100 pieces of original artwork which I have framed ready for the gallery space in my studio. My aim is to use my platform to showcase some of the incredibly talented artists that I've been lucky enough to meet and work with. I am also in the process of creating a sub-brand, Voodouart, based around this concept and community which I will launch in December.

What’s your idea of perfect happiness?

Can you imagine what it would be like to live your life without fear? The kind of fear that prevents you from living the life of your dreams? To have absolutely no fear of failure and to be able to set your sights on accomplishing anything you want without limitations.

This to me has become my idea of freedom, which equates to happiness.

What is the quality you most like in a man?

I admire in men the same qualities I admire in women. Each of us must work on our own personal improvement and at the same time share a general responsibility for all humanity. I enjoy connecting with people who believe that we can build a better world and most of all, the belief and faith within themselves that they can make a difference.

And last but not least, what is your motto?

It’s actually a quote by William Blake and it has been my motto for many years now. “I must create a system or be enslaved by another man’s; I will not reason and compare: my business is to create.” www.manakacollection.com

Designer Mary Manaka is a free spirit with a story.

"My business is to create," she tells Tony Stanton.

Photo: Ryserson Anselmo for costes portrait.

voodoo vibes.

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sounds around singer deniz reno has been there and done that. twelve million downloads later she's found peace in bali. photo: oscar munar.

Dress by Authentica Wear @authetica_wear.

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Deniz, you grew up in a creative environment … your father was a sculptor from Kazakhstan, your mother too … tell us about life in your home as a child.

I had quite an unorthodox upbringing. My father, Vagif Rakhmanov, is a well-respected sculptor and academic in Kazakhstan and internationally. His lifelong devotion to his sculpture and his work ethic have always inspired me. My mother, Marina Reshetnikova, is a tour de force. She is a sculptor and a respected film industry scenic artist. She is the hardest working person I know, as a mother, as a woman, as an artist. When I was little she spent every ounce of energy and every last penny she had kindling my interest and unlocking my abilities in various disciplines. One of the highlights of this year for me was hearing her name being read out in acknowledgement for her scenic contribution to the set decorating team on Guillermo Del Toro’s Shape of Water at this year’s Academy Awards.

You've also worked as a scenic painter, and been recognised in various other fields … were you one of those kids who could play any instrument, make any sculpture or paint any painting?

I have worked as a scenic painter and sculptor in the film industry in Toronto, Canada, for nearly eight years. Not many people are familiar with the term “scenic artist”. Scenics work under the direction of the production designer and the art director to bring their artistic visions to life, or to set, rather. This can involve anything from painting sets to producing intricate works of art and sculpture, collaborating with the prop, set dec. and costumes departments. Working in the industry seemed like a natural continuation of my upbringing as a visual artist. Back in Kazakhstan, I started painting and making little sculptures at the age of three. By the age of 10 I had participated in many solo and group shows and sold a number of my artworks to international collections. My parents had me study flute for four years and I was always singing. At the time no one had any idea what my casual passion for singing would turn into, and neither did I. When did you realise you could sing?

I think I always knew that I loved music, I just didn’t think anything of it in terms of turning it into a career. Where I grew up, it was and still is widely believed that if you wish to amount to anything in any creative field you have to start honing your skills as early as at four or six years old. So I naturally thought I was going to be a visual artist and nothing else. The realization came when other people started stopping me around the ages of 12 and 14 and telling me I had a voice. Then one day my father produced a cassette tape recording from when I was a few weeks old. He said “I always said you’d be a singer!”

Tell us about some of the things in your life that have shaped or affected you … whether recently or in the past.

There are so many. I feel like I’ve lived nine lives. My life before coming to Canada, and then several that came after. I would say in the past, having to fight for my dreams shaped me. My journey up as a singer was full of challenges. Songwriting did not come as easy to me as painting, I had zero connections in the music industry. I had to work at it for years. Having to work multiple jobs from the age of 13, trying to believe in myself when no one else would. Being rejected over and over and over again after giving it my all and told that only one in a million people succeed in the industry I’ve chosen. But a voice inside me always said “keep going”. In terms of life-transforming experiences, you get so caught up in the race you forget that our time on this earth is limited and none of us know when we’ll leave this place or how. A year and a half ago I lost my fiancé Graham Dickinson, in a BASE wingsuit crash. When Graham died I felt like the child in me, my trust in life, my trust in people, all perished. Last year was a year of massive spiritual transformation. I thought I had life all figured out and then this hurricane hits and you’re the only one left standing and you have this choice: to slowly die inside,

poison your body or lash out at the world to ease the pain, or somehow come out of it.

My dad always told me growing up, “Deniz, you’re a dragon, no matter what happens to you, you get up and you carry on.” So I made a pact with myself to rise for the both of us and carry on with all the amazing things we had planned together. We had a shared vision of helping make this world better, kinder. When you lose someone you are deeply and unconditionally in love with it breaks parts of you forever, but I believe that what remains can either be used to hurt or to heal others. I chose to use the pain as fuel to be of service to this world.

You’ve worked with some big names in the music industry and your cover of Chris Isaak’s Wicked Games went viral … it all sounds very glamorous, but does it start out that way? What is your songwriting process?

In 2013 I got in touch with Anton Ishutin, one of the biggest artists to come of out of Russia’s deep house scene at the time. He asked me if I wanted to do a cover of Wicked Games and we made it happen. I had recorded the vocals literally on a portable mic setup in my bedroom closet. What neither of us predicted was that on YouTube alone that cover would be streamed more than 12,000,000 times. That track ended up blowing up in Eastern Europe and all over the world. For me it led to more collaboration opportunities. I’ve most recently worked with Keys N’ Krates on a track called Something Wonderful off their new EP Cura, also with Matt Lange and many others. As in film so in music, the glamour of it all comes post-release when you’re promoting material, selling the dream so to speak, going to parties, doing interviews. But the reality of being a recording artist and what truly matters is days on end spent in the studio with a producer or sometimes by yourself, crafting the sound, writing lyrics, recording vocals.

There’s nothing glamorous about the process, but it nourishes my soul like nothing else.

What are you working on at the moment?

I have just released a music video for my brand new single Fly on my label Taksu Records.

It features incredible wingsuit flights from some of the top talent in the skydiving, wingsuit and base communities, amongst them my friends Jokke Sommer, Gabriel Lott, Carlos Pedro Briceño, and epic footage by Shams at Big Kids Cartel, Brandon Timinsky and Ruben Sabotatge. The song and video are really my show of solidarity and appreciation to anyone who’s ever followed their passion in life, lived and sacrificed believing in the beauty of their dreams.

What attracted you to Bali, and what has kept you coming back?

I ended up in Bali a couple of years ago by sheer accident, or so I thought. Like many who come to this island I just needed a place to heal and reset. It took me three days to fall in love with this island and a couple of weeks to meet a handful of very special people who are now dear friends of mine. The immense gratitude for the ways in which this island has helped me tap into my authentic self and the relationships it has given me cannot be put into words. Every day spent in Bali I am in awe of its rich artistic and spiritual culture. I am in awe of the Balinese people, their traditions and compassion to all who come here and all who choose to stay.

Ok last bit not least … your favourite footwear?

I prefer to walk barefoot, which is one of the things I absolutely loved about living in Australia for a time. It’s incredibly grounding and makes me feel more present in my body and happier in general. That being said, unless I’m in nature or on a beach you’ll most likely find me in some sort of flats, whether it be flip flops or ballerina flats. And at events I’ll always be rocking a slick pair of heels. @denizreno

www.denizreno.com

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people Venus Pratova scaled the heights of international gymnastics before discovering the healing power of sensual dance. photo: oscar munar.

venus de milo.

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Venus, where are you from and how did you grow up?

My roots are from Kyrgyzstan but I was born and raised

We see from your FB stream that dancing has become

parents showed me how to be loved. I realized later

go from gymnastics to the dance studio?

in Siberia, Russia. I grew up in a family where my that it’s the most treasured gift I could ever ask for.

What was early life like for you?

My childhood was very scheduled as a young child.

Besides regular school I was doing gymnastics,

ballet and music. I remember that I had a special 17 minutes nap to recover. It’s actually a useful tip

for workaholics, I still do it if I’m exhausted while working. To be honest I feel like I’m not as busy now as I was at a young age.

Tell us about your gymnastics career, how you got started and where it took you?

One day in kindergarten while all kids were

supposed to sleep I found out that some girls were skipping that and going elsewhere, so I followed

important to you . . . was it a natural progression to I’m not a professional dancer but I’m enjoying

moving and feeling the flow while dancing. Dancing is a connection between soul, body and music. I would recommend all women to start every morning from

meditation or dancing in bed. That’s what I do before stretching or working out. Also one of my favourite ways to release stress is ecstatic dancing, which makes me feel alive.

How would you define your dance style, and what do you first teach students who come to learn from you?

I call it sensual dance. It’s a way to express the

emotions we tend to hold in. It’s a way to open your heart and start loving yourself. Sensual dance is a

therapy for women to discover the beauty of their body and develop graceful movement.

them carefully. I was amazed that they were playing

What brought you to Bali in the first place, and what

to join them and later told me to invite my parents

A broken heart brought me here. I was looking for a

and having fun at gymnastics class. A coach asked me as she saw my potential. I came back home full of

happiness and told my father that I wanted to be a

gymnast. He said: “You’ll be a champion.” My family’s support and belief in me helped me achieve a lot.

It was a long journey full of discipline, daily development and, from

time to time, tears. But if you

ask me would I change it, the answer is no. Rhythmic gymnastics is the most feminine and graceful sport of all. I’ve learned a lot and it has given me an

has inspired you since you arrived?

place to heal. But Bali became much more than that. I went to Vipassana meditation and it changed my life.

For the first time ever I totally accepted myself

and started loving me. I found the courage to open

my heart and to trust the whole world. It may sound unusual but a lot of people live an illusion full

of fear and doubt in which they are not satisfied but pretend to be, behind a mask.

understanding that nothing is impossible . . . but you

It’s mesmerizing to watch you move. How do you feel

of Sports of Russia in rhythmic gymnastics; I’ve been

You are very kind, thank you. I feel like a Goddess

have to work at it. Since 2006 I have been a Master

a multiple champion at HMAO-Urga, Russia and I’ve won multiple international tournaments.

What kind of training regime did you have at the height of your career?

When I was competing, in the lead up to a competition, I trained twice a day for at least three hours at a

when you dance?

when I dance! I hope that inspires other women to get a connection with themselves and start creating a new life full of pleasure, harmony and joy. If you accept who you are and the body you have, the colour of your skin or race, then you can just celebrate life and dance as if nobody is watching you.

time at a sport camp for about two to three weeks. It

What does it mean to be a woman to you?

training, not to mention planning and choreography.

how important it is to be truly happy and honest with

was all early morning starts, long runs, swimming and I’m sure you get the picture. No-one competes at the top level without hard work.

Are you still competing?

No, but luckily I’m still capable of doing some

advanced gymnastics movement. I’m proud of myself. The healthy lifestyle and the environment helps to keep

It is a gift and hard work at the same time. As I know myself and the people around me. What I carry inside my heart . . . that’s what I spread. People feel

it. I’m conscious that my vibrations may be as much distractive as healing. Self-love, inner beauty, is the key.

FB: @stretchingvenus

my body in shape, with a clear mind and harmony in my soul.

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people Georgia Sutherland fell in love with Bali, and made beauty her passion at Glo Day Spa. Photo: Ryerson Anselmo www.costesportrait.com

glo-ing.

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Hi Georgia. When did you first fall in love with Bali?

I first visited Bali when I was about six years old in the late ’70s with my family, and then often for holidays intermittently over the following years.

After graduating from Hotel Management School in Australia, Bali was my first posting. I worked at The Legian for two years, which was then a GHM hotel, and initially I was employed to do the pre-opening of the second two towers – an all-suite boutique property, which back then was surrounded by nothing but rice paddy fields. I guess at that time Bali didn’t hold the place in my heart that it does today. I just thought I would see out my two-year contract and move on. Little did I know I’d still be here 22 years later! I fell in love with the island, the people, the spiritualty and culture. I also fell in love with my husband. We have three beautiful children.

It sounds like you did a fair bit of travelling when you were young?

My extended family are from Melbourne but I was born in Perth. I was an expat child – growing up in HK from when I was four. Boarding school followed and I graduated year 12 in Victoria before I moved back to Perth and then off to Europe backpacking for two years. I had a fabulous upbringing in HK full of travel and adventure throughout Asia and other parts of the world. My mum worked for Pan Am and although the pay was very average, the perks were great with lots of free travel and upgrades.

How did you start your career in beauty?

I literally fell into the spa and beauty industry. The Indonesian Monetary Crisis happened in 1998 and many people were retrenched. It was at that time I found my new passion – I was approached by Mandara Spa and offered the position of Operations Manager. I had found my new love.

So, Glo Day Spa … how did that come about?

Indonesia has a wonderful history in hair and beauty, but 21 years ago there was very little available to Bali residents, other than a couple of little day spas offering hair cream baths and manicures or pedicures and waxing. The hygiene wasn’t great. I opened Glo Seminyak 12 years ago in 2005, and that was the first city-styled day spa on the island at that time.

Our guests loved Glo and we slowly expanded to offer full spa services.

Glo Sanur opened a few years later, then Glo Sandy Bay and the latest, Glo Canggu.

What are the challenges running a chain of spas here?

I guess the most obvious challenge is how to be in all four spas at the same time! But that challenge is solved simply – I have an incredible team of staff and managers. Perhaps the worst of it is the wasted time in traffic going between the four venues. That can be a challenge.

The spa business was estimated at US$8.5 billion the US alone last year … can it keep growing?

Yes I believe it can. Instagram and social media have accelerated this growth as it seems everyone is striving to be fit and beautiful. Even when times are tough you still want to look good.

What else is popular in your spas, apart from nails?

We have a very comprehensive spa and salon menu. Our slogan is Vanity and Sanity. Vanity for your nails, waxing and other beauty services.

Sanity for, say, a massage. There isn’t much that the Glo team have not mastered.

How do you keep everyone motivated?

We are a team of 58, eight of whom have been with me since the beginning. We have a very low turnover of staff and I am very proud of that. When I started Glo, no one was married or had their own family.

Now there are so many Glo babies! We do a lot of team building and social events, and we are continually doing refresher training with international trainers, which keeps the team motivated.

Ok here’s a good Yak question for you … you’re miles out in the middle of the desert and there’s a wounded animal blocking the road. It’s five hours back to the nearest town, what do you do?

Another of my passions is animal welfare. So this question is a no brainer!

I’d do whatever is required to help the animal. Even if that means sitting there for five hours waiting for the vet to come. I’m constantly rescuing animals that have been dumped near us, and then finding new homes for them. I currently have two Bali dogs (recently our eldest one passed away). They were all rescued from the street.

What’s your favourite footwear?

I love nothing more than getting dressed to the nines and putting on the heels … but I am equally happy barefoot on the beach with the sand between my toes.

What is your spirit animal?

Ok quite a random question – so to be honest I did the spirit animal quiz on the internet[http://www.spiritanimal.info/spirit-animal-quiz] and the result was … wolf! Happy with that as the wolf is a pack animal like dogs and I love my friends and family.

What’s most important to you in life?

My family. I am blessed with three incredible children that make my world go round. Saying that you don’t know what love is until you have children is kinda cheesy but so true. And my husband of course. He’s been my sounding board and biggest supporter over the years. It has been his faith in me that has allowed me to take the risks that I have over the years. He’s been the best father.

Thanks for your time Georgia ... we’ll see you in the spa. Or the traffic.

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people bali baby kelly ‘bug’ ariella spreads her wings with air fest. images ryerson anselmo words tony stanton.

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Kelly Bug Ariella … shall we start with that name? There’s a lot going on there lol. Bug? I was given the nick name “Bug” by a very good friend of mine from Melbourne and I kind of just stuck with it. Ariella is actually my middle name, not last.

Tell us about your parents and how you grew up…

I’m of mixed blood or campur, as you would say in Indonesian. My mom is from Manado and Padang and my dad is American. My parents met in Yogyakarta where I was born and lived for nine years before moving to Bali.

Did you ever live in a city?

Yes I have! After finishing high school in Bali I moved to Melbourne for four years where I studied graphic design and photography. I totally fell in love with the city and would love to spend more time there in the near future.

You’re currently involved with the Air Festival, right? What’s that about, and when and how did it come to life?

Air Festival was founded by myself and a group of friends in 2014. The festival started out as an even more intimate event. The original team, comprised of myself, Tiago Oudman, Walker Barnard, Sylvie Foret and Alexander Bonkas - we all have virtually lifelong roots in underground dance music and started the party with a “ let’s just do this and see what happens kind of attitude”. Fast forward four years and The Air Festival has established itself as one of the foremost gatherings of visionaries, musicians, artists and dancers in the region. Its two stages merge underground dance music culture with ceremony and sacredness, creating an unforgettable three-day experience in which friendships are forged, hearts are opened and life is affirmed.

You’ve decided to move it to Bali this year, away from its original home on Gili Air. Why is that?

Recently, we learned that Air Festival’s home on Gili Air will be undergoing extensive renovations throughout 2018. Beginning in March, local authorities are scheduled to demolish numerous ocean front buildings that have surpassed the legal high tide building mark. For us, this means that our beautiful dancefloor under the stars will most likely be clogged by rubble, and that our beach will be inaccessible due to the mess.

And so we made a tough call and decided to embrace change, accepting that Air Festival’s home-base is getting a makeover and that it will be even more awesome when we return in 2019. So this year we are taking a temporary breather from our beloved Gili Air and moving just a hop, skip and jump away to La Brisa on Echo Beach.

For those of you already in Bali, you may have already been to this epic, super-eco beach club on Canggu’s Echo Beach.

For Air Festival, La Brisa will be expanding to take over the northern half of the beach area, as well as some beautiful and until-now hidden property. We are so grateful for this space! Two stages, plus extra magic in the daytime and we’ll be able to go virtually around the clock.

House-n-Techno, Disco and Cacao, live music, slow and organic beats, transformational workshops and vibrant yoga, not to mention legendary surfing, all within the same few hectares.

If we were to wander down to the beach and find the festival going on, what would be our first impression?

A futuristic beach land utopia!

What would be the strangest thing we would find?

Merlin the wizard (no joke he has showed up before!)

What would be the tastiest thing we would find?

A delicious meal from one of our food stalls! Think vegan baos with sweet potato fries washed down with a turmeric elixir.

Other than the festival, what else have you been involved in?

I have been involved in many different projects from launching a new events collective called Basement Love to modelling, styling and even creating my own 100% natural skin care line. I feel like I’m always doing a million things at once!

We’ve seen you as the face behind a lingerie line in Bali have we not?

Ah yes you have, that was for my friend Maikhan’s beautiful lingerie brand, probably my favourite on the island!

Describe yourself in three words.

Dreamer, passionate and creative.

You’re on a long drive at night in the desert. You go through a canyon and the road is completely blocked by a large injured animal. You can’t get around it in your truck. It’s six hours back to civilization and one hour onwards to your destination. What do you do?

Firstly I would get out of the truck and help the animal, secondly I would try to put it in my truck and If I was unable to do that I would try to get some help because I doubt that I would be able to put a large injured animal in a truck on my own! I’m not one to leave an injured animal on its own – I would have to help it.

Finally Kelly, what’s your ultimate vision for Air Festival?

To create a space where people can lose / find themselves, express themselves free of judgement and have deep soul connections with others and the music. Eventually I would also like to see the Festival moving to its own island (we have a few in mind that I don’t want to name yet!) and morph into it. www.airfestival.net

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Bali baby Polly Purser talks to Stephanie Mee about her role as

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Director of Heritage and Design at jewellry outfit John Hardy.

hardy heritage.

people

Hi Polly. So let’s start at the beginning. Where were you born and how did you spend your childhood years?

I spent my childhood here in Bali, first in Batu Jimbar, Sanur, then in Ubud. My parents came to Bali in the ’60s on a two-week honeymoon that never ended.

I remember life with no electricity, just oil lamps lit at sunset, water carried in buckets from the river to bathe in, catching dragonflies with tree sap in the rice fields, and collecting giant shells on the beach. I moved to Australia when I was eight years old, then moved back to Indonesia, first to Java where my father lives and then to Bali to work for John Hardy 16 years ago.

At what point in your life did jewellery design become a passion?

I’ve always loved beautiful things. As a child I remember looking at my mother’s jewellery collection with awe. She never took her jewellery very seriously – ruby earrings lost in the frenzy of a Balinese ceremony or diamonds left in fruit bowls in our open-bale home in Ubud. I was also fascinated with the Balinese sense of adornment and decoration. I studied Jewellery and Object Design at Sydney University before life took a very different course and I did a double major in Social Work and Community Development, working mainly in Australia and Southeast Asia focusing on women and empowerment. Coming to John Hardy as Design Director and now working in Heritage has been an experience that has come full circle. Creating beauty with a sense of consciousness and social responsibility here in Bali where I began is a blessing.

What exactly does the job of Director of Heritage and Design entail?

It’s a relatively new position for John Hardy and myself and it is ever evolving.

To me it entails identifying and preserving what is so unique and special about what we do here and especially in Bali. It’s about the heritage of the brand and its history and relationship with local culture, tradition and community. My role is to share this rich heritage with people visiting John Hardy on the island and globally.

Can you tell us a bit about what makes the brand so special?

Each and every piece of John Hardy jewellery is still created by hand. We work with master artisans harnessing traditional techniques intrinsic to Balinese culture. For example, the designs are rendered in the tradition of artists from Batuan and the 3D wax models are carved by talent from villages like Batubulan or Mas where there are long lineages of carvers. We have women whose nimble fingers can move swiftly from weaving traditional offerings to weaving strands of gold and silver link by link, creating our iconic chain bracelets and necklaces. Using this unique craft, it takes four days to create one John Hardy bracelet, and it will be woven almost entirely by Balinese women.

What makes Balinese craftsmanship unique compared to other jewellerymaking traditions?

The Balinese have a collective spirit, so there is less individual ego and ownership of a piece or project and more openness to work together to get

the best result. A designer can work on an idea then hand it to a wax carver who interprets the design in his own way, adding his spirit and personality, and then a jeweler will assemble and finish the piece. We have 750 artisans at John Hardy working together to create the jewellery, and most of them have been with us for over 10 years. People feel a sense of community and belonging as well as pride to be part of the process.

John Hardy aims to be a sustainable company. What green initiatives do you have in place?

Our founders John and Cynthia were both, and still are, inspirational ecowarriors way ahead of their time. Our company was founded on principles of sustainability and we remain committed to that from the use of recycled silver in our production, ethical sourcing of all our stones and diamonds, and offsetting carbon emissions by planting bamboo in Bali. This year we celebrated the planting of our one-millionth bamboo. Our next chapter is working with Arief Rabik, son of the late Linda Garland, on an exciting program called 1,000 Bamboo Villages, which takes bamboo planting to the next step by providing economic benefits directly to the communities involved.

Although there are John Hardy boutiques in Houston, L.A., New York and Bali, all the magic happens in Mambal. Can you tell us a bit about the workshop?

Seeing is believing and feeling is knowing. I invite you to come and experience it yourself. There are not many companies in the world that open their doors to customers to see first-hand how their jewellery is made and then invite you to join the team for a delicious organic farmer’s lunch. The John Hardy boutique, Kapal Bamboo, is like a cathedral of bamboo housing the newest collections.

The workshop and boutique are the ultimate expression of the brand’s values of artisanship and community.

What new and exciting things are happening at John Hardy that we should know about?

We just launched ‘Made for Legends’, a fabulous new ad campaign celebrating the personal power of femininity through the bold philosophy of wearing jewellery to express, empower, and most of all to honour the unstoppable potential of the self. Made for Legends is a call for women to live on their own terms and build their legend, and is embodied by modern day icons Julianne Moore and Adwoa Aboah. Secondly, we are about to launch the John Hardy Master classes here at the Ubud workshop. Guests will have the rare chance to work in tandem with master artisans and customise their own piece of John Hardy jewellery. This intimate experience will include learning about the unique eight-step process, an exclusive behind-the-scenes tour of the workshop, and an organic on-site lunch alongside the design team and artisans. www.johnhardy.com

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members of the cloth

artist Jyoti Parenco talks to stephanie mee about her life, loves and collaboration with fashion brand biasa as they launch their art to wear project of numbered kaftans, scarves and sarongs.

jyoti: natural beauty,

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Hi Jyoti, can you tell us a little bit about your background?

I’m the youngest of four, and I grew up in a heavenly piece of nature in the middle of the city. I was surrounded by boys and we spent our days climbing trees and making tree houses. I was a real tomboy then and still am now. I also come from a very artistic family of musicians, couturiers, architects, jewellers, and diamond cutters. My mother was and still is an amazing couturier, and she taught me how to make my own clothes at the age of 13. At the age of 22 I decided I wanted to experience different cultures, so I travelled through Europe, Africa and Asia. Later I drew on those experiences to design accessories for luxury homes. There has never been a dull moment in my life, and I’ve never stopped creating.

At what point did you realise that you had a passion and talent for art?

Never really, because it was just so normal and natural to be passionate about all beautiful things. I suppose the passion for art and beauty is part of my genetic heritage.

Can you describe your artistic style to us in one or two sentences?

Organic fantasy, magical, bold, and full of feelings.

How about your own personal style?

I love boots and jeans combined with original big bold pieces from my personal jewellery collection. I’d call myself a sophisticated and eccentric rock and roll girl.

What is a typical day like for you?

Every day starts with me opening my eyes to the rising sun and smiling at nature. To me nature is art, and every day that art piece changes in front of me. After greeting Mademoiselle Soleil, I have my coffee and then I grab a canvas or start designing some jewellery.

In your opinion, what is it about Bali that attracts so many amazing artists from around the word?

Bali has an amazing energy, and the combination of spirituality and art just keeps your fantasies going. Then of course there are the smiling people and the unique culture. I mean just walk down the street in any small village and you only see beauty and smiles. What more could you want as an artist?

How did your partnership with the BIASA fashion brand come about?

I met Susanna at one of my exhibitions in Europe, and we started talking about the possibility of combining my art with the lightness of BIASA fabrics so that we could create limited edition artworks to wear and not just to hang on the wall.

Can you tell us a little bit more about the Art to Wear project?

Each piece begins with organic materials on canvas. I make my own natural paints from roots and leaves and I finish off each canvas with 22-karat gold. Then I use a digital printer to transfer the images to silk.

What do you hope people take away of your artwork?

A light blessed feeling and warm loving energy.

Do you have any advice for other aspiring artists?

Just be yourself, love nature and embrace the unknown.

Where do you hope to be 10 years from now?

Today is today, tomorrow is tomorrow!

Any last words of wisdom?

Life has its ups and downs, heavens and hells. The trick is not to run away from anything, but instead to find a healthy balance and grow.

We only grow by encountering, accepting, and dealing with obstacles.

Ignoring them or raging over them will keep you at a standstill. www. biasagroup.com from canvas to catwalk ... art to wear.

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members of the cloth

scion sayang ropp has stepped into the Paul Ropp fashion empire. Tony Stanton spoke to her about her hopes and dreams. portraits saskia koerner. styling MaiKhanh Bertrand. hair/make up: rosario, balistarz

Now then Miss Ropp, can you tell us how and where you grew up and who were your inspirations?

A third cultured kid like me knows that the “where did you grow up” question is a tough one. But, in a nutshell, I was born and raised in Bali from an Italian mother and a New York father. I was privileged to have been able to further grow up in boarding schools in places such as India and Switzerland; then later on to places such as Rome and British Columbia. The diversity of culture I have experienced has definitely been a point of inspiration for me. However, my two biggest inspirations are my parents, by far. Seeing the lives they have been able to create for themselves, their determination, perseverance, their wisdom and their compassion has helped define the woman I strive to be. I couldn’t have asked for better role models.

What do you do precisely at PR, and what’s your future there?

I came to join the company in the capacity of Operations Manager. The scope of my job revolves around administrative functions and implementing strategic systems. Although I am slowly trying to add a new flare to the company from a different perspective than it has previously received. I think that in this technological age we are living in, having a fresh set of eyes looking at things in a different, and sometimes opposing, light can truly be an asset. I definitely don’t want to change what isn’t broken, but I do believe we have the potential to become so much more as a company. I believe, should I prove myself worthy, that one day I would be able to take a position which would allow my hard working father to finally be able to live in retirement the way he truly deserves. I came here to help, and that’s my main focus for both now and for the future. I hope to be able to ensure a prosperous future for my father’s legacy that isn’t limited by temporal concepts such as age, or social dynamics.

What’s it been like stepping into father’s famous shoes?

This has definitely been a challenge as they are incredibly large shoes.

However, I hope more than anything that when the time comes I will be able to wear them and make him proud. He has done incredibly well, all on his own. The last thing I would want is to put on his shoes before the time is right.

But it is quite a view from where I am standing. As my father says, my whole academic life my parents have paid for me to go to “school”, but this is where the real schooling starts.

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What’s the most important part of your day?

Any time I get to eat is a pretty important part of my day as food is my favourite activity! On a more serious note, the parts of my day that are most vital are when I encounter a situation where I can provide a solution for efficiency or progress. I really like seeing the outcome of things I am able make a change in, or improve. Finding obstacles and a great way to overcome them is a pretty important thing in general, and it helps me improve my strategic thinking.

Do you want to take the brand into new directions and new markets, or will it always be clothing for people who prefer to be naked?

The most identifiable aspect of the brand is the fabrics we use. There is nothing out there like it and my father has an uncanny knack for finding the most beautiful textiles and creating the perfect clothes for people who prefer to be naked. So, I would never want to take that away. However, I am interested in creating an avenue for the brand that lends itself to certain missing demographics. I believe that there are so many people out there who would, given the chance, become Paul Ropp enthusiasts. Unfortunately, I believe these demographics are sheltered to their possibilities for several different reasons. One of my main hopes for the future is to bridge the gap and find a way to create a product that is steadfast with the Paul Ropp vision, but more easily translatable towards demographics who may not yet get it.

We’re all so familiar with the brand but can you just let us know how it started and from where it takes inspiration?

The brand started with my father himself – in his childhood, his adolescence, through times of hardship, and happiness. This brand IS my father, and that is what makes it so hard to step into his shoes. The brand is everything my father stands for, in his business life as well in his personal life. Through his trials and tribulations of growing up, to his successes and elations of creating his own path – the brand represents it all. It is a statement, a philosophy, a culture, and a lifestyle choice. Paul Ropp, the brand, represents and exudes a derived confidence and acceptance of self; it provokes reactions and turns heads; it stands out in a room filled with people. Just like Paul Ropp, the person. I think this is the focus of his inspiration: every place he has been, every high, every low, every hurdle he has overcome and every success he has celebrated. His inspiration is the world around him and how it has influenced his perceptions.

sayang wears paul ropp.

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members of the cloth 100

How will you keep the company relevant for today’s internet generation?

I am currently on a mission to better establish and enhance our online presence. I think that the field of digital marketing is one that is ever changing, and will never stay stagnant for any moment in time. I think it is most vital to link ourselves to this powerful and fast driving train if we wish to prosper in times to come. I think any company, in any industry, needs to understand how the times are changing and whether they want to sit back and watch, be a part of the trend, or completely shatter what is expected and create new avenues for future growth and opportunities. I want to see this company break boundaries and defy expectations in the internet generation in the same way it has done in our current successful generations up to the point we are now. As a company, I think it’s imperative we evolve with our consumers, adjacent with the times we live in; becoming stagnant in a time of such economic and cultural flux would render us on the side lines – which is not a place I want to be. I’d rather see us spearheading trends, customs and generational cultures in the future the way the Paul Ropp brand has been a noted trailblazer in the past.

Where do you see PR the brand in 10 years?

Hmm. I would like to see this company as a completely self-serving mechanism that is constantly evolving, with highly efficient feed back loops, people who believe in what they are doing, and who love what they do as much their founder did. I’d like to see the company only filled with people who believe in its vision, and strive to reinforce it; of course, while standing strong on the foundation my father has built. What this brand represents is our most powerful tool, I would like to see that translated into the leading cultures of society. We are far more than just another fashion label and I hope to see that education widespread. Given the fast pace our times are changing, I don’t know what this would look like externally, I only know what I could hope for in terms of the internal mechanism that is this machine of the Paul Ropp franchise.

Is there a perfect PR customer?

The perfect Paul Ropp customer is someone who is comfortable in their own skin. They are someone who knows what they want and goes for it regardless of trends, hearsay, social pressures or expectations. Someone who would rather spend their time feeling the breeze in their hair and the sun on their cheeks than listening to the click clack sound of a keyboard under their fingers or a recurrent pay check in their pocket. I think that absolutely anyone could be the perfect Paul Ropp customer if we they are able to break free from their self inflicted shackles that they blame on external sources. To me, Paul Ropp = freedom.

Is there one thing that your father told you as a youngster that has stuck

in your brain, or guided you in troubled times?

Is there one? There are plenty! My dad is my source of witty and wise mantras that play in my head on repeat like a pleasantly broken record. “I can, it’s done, what’s next”. “Better today than yesterday, better tomorrow than today, better and better in every way”. “Resolve and Dissolve”. And the list goes on and on and on. The question is how often I allow myself to zip the annoying little voice in my head and just agree and follow his wisdom. I wish it were more often than I could ever admit.

If you weren’t doing this what would you be doing?

If I wasn’t doing this I would be trying to get my Permanent Residency in British Columbia, trying to create a life for myself that wasn’t in the shadow of either of my parents. However, it also would mean that I would never have taken the step that really allowed me to reconnect with my family, to help my father, and to grow my own wings and drive my own path by his side.

However, one day, I would like to go back to school to do a Masters in something that has nothing to do with fashion – like criminal justice, forensic psychology, or a mix of the both.

Ok. Money or art?

Definitely art. I wish money never existed. Although, money can give me the life I want, art is so much more important. Life is art, and physical, emotional, and impermanent art is all around us we just have to choose to see it. Plus, dance was my first passion and when I was pursuing dance in Switzerland, it was another time I was ecstatically happy. Art is emotional, and it speaks to levels of consciousness far beyond monetary influence.

Rebel or conformist?

Rebel! Without a doubt, and without a cause :) I’m basically an anti-conformist.

Married or single?

Single. I think “marriage” is a piece of paper. Having a partner is far more important and valuable. This partner can be either platonic or romantic, but it’s having someone you can count on no matter what – isn’t that what a marriage is?

How would you like all your tomorrows to be?

I would like my tomorrows to be different each and every day because routine would be the death of me. I would like some to be better than others, because we would not know happiness without sadness, or success without struggle, or advantage without adversity. I want all my tomorrows to be a surprise and to, in the long run, bring fulfilment, diversity, and spontaneity to myself and those I love. Cheesy I know :) Furthermore, I would also like to see our COLLECTIVE tomorrows be led by our humanity rather than our individual greed or personal satisfaction. I’d like our collective tomorrows to be one that is less driven by fear than the one I expect to see in continuing with the current path we are on. I’d like to see a changed society, for the betterment of all, not a few. www.paulropp.com

members of the cloth

amanda Lestari’s star is rising, writes Ondy Sweeting.

Baduy is a remote place, strangely, it is just a few hours out of Jakarta in Banten province and is home of a protected indigenous Sudanese ethnic group that likes to weave. They live a traditional life and shun much of the outside world, westerners and technology. In Baduy Luar foreigners are not allowed to enter.

The inner villages of Baduy Dalam are protected from the greater world by the embracing ring of Baduy Luar. There is no phone signal and no electricity. Instead the inhabitants weave by hand in the silence. They weave their ancient culture, stories and right of passage lessons into geometrical shapes.

Fashion powerhouse Amanda Indah Lestari is the curator of a uniquely chic Indonesian style synthesized from the extraordinary woven fabric of Baduy. She has tailored it exquisitely into high fashion and London Fashion Week did not fail to grasp the otherness of LEKAT Di Hati’s apparel in April.

As a major fashion force, Amanda Lestari has her eye on the international prize and is once again preparing to take this local label global.

“I’m preparing for Paris Fashion Week’s showroom and then we will take LEKAT to New York Fashion Week. It’s my biggest challenge to organize every look for a collection. And I am doing that right now,” she said.

The traditional weavers that have inspired Amanda for so long relentlessly spin their magic over the designer who continues in her push to bring these rare textiles to the wider fashion world.

“There is a real urgency to enable traditional weavers in Indonesia to continue with their work but they must be connected to marketing pathways that give their work wider scope.

“LEKAT has significant support from key players in the global market to expand and develop the collections. This creates much greater impact when it comes to offering support to the people behind the products: the traditional weavers,” she said.

In fact, Lestari and LEKAT have worked closely with the Baduy tribe for the past three years and expect to spend at least another half decade with these unique and talented people.

“Working with the weavers from Baduy is such a pleasure.

Sheltered from outside influences, the tribe pours their appreciation of beauty and respect for culture through weaving their own textiles and to preserve the local traditions and cultures.

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The geometrical motifs also symbolize stages of life where an individual is formed through a series of ups and downs’, where endurance and passion will yield beautiful results.”

Over several collections Amanda Lestari has produced edgy fashion that integrates traditional textiles into contemporary designs that are practical while being statement making head spinners. LEKAT is fun and irreverent but its signature style is like Indonesia itself; all epic colours, ancient stories and legends, diverse cultures and oneness.

“My role here is to translate the tradition through my design innovations. How to make people feel more comfortable and look chic and iconic when they are wearing LEKAT, and to truly appreciate our own cultural heritage here in Indonesia,” she said.

Amanda Lestari has already moved offshore and explored other remote and unique destinations in pursuit of inspiration and collections include odes to the Mongolian tribes on the Central Asian Steppe and to the indigenous Peruvian people.

“I’m currently in the process of researching the style native to Jhodpur in India. I try to exercise my ability to look at the world around us and decode its meaning and relationship in order to communicate and narrate the value behind each LEKAT design,” said Amanda from her Jakarta studio.

Amanda started her LEKAT career in the accessories design room. In fact, while pouring over LEKAT’s online collection it is impossible not to notice the repeated appearance of a series of wonderfully chunky beaded neckpieces that accessorize regularly in different forms and colours throughout every collection.

“I think it is one of my favorite items after the apparel. It is something that is unique, edgy and of course it is comfortable when people wear it, and it can be useful in any occasion. The experiment was worth it,” she said.

Lovers of LEKAT Di Hati can look forward to seeing a ‘LEKAT home’ series that will transpose its fashion ideals onto domestic décor with accent and decorative stories for interiors.

There are no plans at present to develop more retail boutiques outside of the Jakarta flagship in the Kemang area.

However, LEKAT pieces are available online at www.lekatdihati. com

baduy bound.

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people

dare2wear founder trudi christensen.

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Mary Justice Thomasson goes off-piste with Trudi Christensen, founder of the brand Dare2Wear. Image: mark Carolan.

TRUDI, tell us a about your background . . .

For me it’s always been about fitness and fashion. I started dancing at the age of two in my home country, Norway, with ballet and jazz and as I got a little older I added modern to the mix, and at about age 10 I started ballroom dancing. I used to enter competitions all the time and afterwards I would hit the ski slopes. After my studies I went to London to pursue professional dancing then I got a degree in personal fitness and I am a certified trainer. Later I got into fashion and worked with different brands.

What brought you to Bali?

I came here to fulfill my dream. Bali is both spiritual and creative so it’s the perfect environment for my vision. The workers here are artists themselves so it makes creating with them a collaborative effort. I’ve been working on this dream for more than a decade. I saw there was a gap in the market for cool, high quality fitness-wear. I wanted a perfect fit, edgy, trendy and feminine. Also the great yoga here was a draw for me.

There are always business challenges on Bali – what’s yours?

Communication with employees is sometimes difficult as their understanding is very different to my European culture. But we get there in the end. I am really pleased with my staff who love working at dare2wear as we have great benefits and a lot of fun in the factory. Each piece we make is personally inspected by hand.

Do you want to make a difference in Indonesia?

My brand works well in Indonesia and I have wholesale agreements in Surabaya and Jakarta. I employ a lot of people. I have a great rapport with my staff and we have a lot of laughs.

Who is the typical dare2wear customer?

We don’t have a typical customer. In fact, that was one of my inspirations for designing the brand: to make women of all sizes feel good about themselves. We cater for every type of woman and we see all types walk into the shop – from supermodels to teenagers to mature ladies.

What was your inspiration?

Besides wanting women to feel good about themselves we wanted clothing that could go from the studio to the street.

You can do a class in the morning, have lunch with your girlfriends or throw on a jacket and have drinks in the evening.

Our clothes are multifunctional and above all colourful, fabulous and fun.

I know you work out all the time – what would be your ideal workout day?

Get up in the morning – not always on a Monday – start the day off with Vinyasa flow yoga and then a walk on the beach with my gorgeous dogs and lovely husband. After a light lunch I might take in a class in the afternoon: I like Total Body Fit, TRX, and I love Muai Thai. Basically you don’t want to rob me on the street, you won’t get away with my handbag alive!

What charity do you support?

We support Solemen. Robert, the founder, is good friend and he works with disadvantaged people in Bali of all ages that wouldn’t have any help at all without him. I can see that my support goes directly to the people that need it. I love this guy.

Do you have a life philosophy?

Take life as it is . . . staying healthy, being healthy is a priority of mine . . . I’m not a fanatic . . . I like to party but I balance it out after a night on the tiles. I work it off the next week.

How would you describe yourself in a word?

Grounded.

What’s your personality – high strung or laid back?

I have a strong personality: determined, stubborn, don't tell me what to do . . . once I’ve made up my mind that's it.

If you weren’t working what would you do?

Skiing around the world or sailing the seven seas. Being in nature is what I love. You feel free and have an impact with nature. I feel fresh when I’m in the elements. I love sailing in a storm. I’ve never been a beach bum . . . I like to be active.

What do you hold close to your heart?

My son is the most precious thing in my heart.

Your creative muse?

I like Dolce and Gabanna, Christian Louboutin shoes, Steve Madden . . . cool, funky brands as well as Stella McCartney.

British design has more of an edge and it’s creative. I lived in London, I like everything British, the fashion, their attitude – it’s very raw and open.

What makes you forget about the world around you?

Yoga and meditation is my escape from the world.

What’s on your bucket list?

Heli-skiing in Japan in powder snow up to my waist. I haven’t seen the Taj Mahal, yet – I know it sounds clichéd – but I want to go. I also want to see my brand expand globally. I feel like I’m on a mission. www.dare2wear.com

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anggun

a rockstar at 20, anggun didn’t rest on her laurels but instead moved continents to claim a place on the world stage. she talks to tony stanon

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sounds around

Anggun, you hardly need any introduction, but if we were to ask you to describe yourself to an alien from Mars, how would you do that?

Lol, well I am a Javanese woman, singer-songwriter, a mother to a gorgeous daughter, a UN Goodwill Ambassador, a feminist and an epicurean who’s very much concerned about the world and people in general. I know it’s exhaustively put but it is what it is :D

education did not consist of me saying “No”. I had to learn by myself that it is important to speak up because not only does it save you time it’s also important to draw the line between what you like and what you don’t like. It gives people an idea of who you are.

When was the first time you realized you could sing, and that your voice was perhaps different from other children your age?

I couldn’t really remember when because singing came so naturally to me. Back when I was about six years old, I used to only listen to The Beatles, Deep Purple, Black Sabbath … which was my father’s music collection … because there wasn’t any music for kids and the only Indonesian pop songs available would not qualify as “listenable” for children my age. So it was safe to say that I didn’t make any comparison with other’s my age.

What do you consider to be your strongest attribute?

My capacity to adapt.

Growing up in Jakarta, who were your musical heroes?

Apart from the bands I mentioned above, I grew up listening to a lot of rock, hard rock and even metal bands. In fact I started my career as a rock singer in Indonesia, so my heroes were The Police, Bowie, Metallica and Queen.

What have you been up to this year, and what’s the plan for 2017?

2016 was filled with many joyful events both personally and professionally. I released my French album which is still doing very well; I started touring in June and will only finish the tour in July 2017. I had my wax figure made and that is now sitting at the Madame Tussaud’s museum in Bangkok; I did an amazing three-song collaboration with the iconic ENIGMA whose album has been released worldwide; I got invited for the fifth time to the Vatican for their Christmas show and got to sing for Pope Francis … and finally I get to close the end of the year at one of the most gorgeous hotels in the world, Sofitel Bali Nusa Dua, on the island of Bali.

Do you still have friends you keep in touch with from your childhood in Jakarta?

I recently reconnected with a few of my school mates, thanks to social media.

By the age of 20, you’d sold more than four million albums in Indonesia, established your own record company and produced your own work … what did that feel like at such an early age?

It was a wonderful feeling, followed by many deceptions. Having success meant that somehow you were right, and that can be dangerous when you’re in your 20s. It’s not healthy being that young and having people saying how great you are, how beautiful and talented etc every single day; it’s easy to lose sight of what’s real and so easy to become a spoilt brat. Money and success can pollute the relationship between life and people.

It must have been odd to go from such enormous success to living in Europe and being relatively unknown … how were those years?

It was much needed I’d say. I somehow wanted to change my destiny. I needed to know what I was really worth, and though it was scary at first because I had never experienced rejection, it was extremely good and necessary.

I saw you perform in Singapore in 2001 … halfway through the first song the power shut down leaving the entire theatre in silence and darkness. What was that moment like for you?

Technical glitches do happen and no matter what the show must go on. I remembered to do the same song I was singing again, the crowd loved it, all went well :)

Your top three songs of all time are …

That’s uber hard ...

1. Ne me quitte pas – Jacques Brel 2. Life on Mars – David Bowie 3. Love of My Life – Queen What humanitarian projects have you been involved with lately?

Every other Wednesday for the last two years I have been going around my district in Paris with the incredible team from Protection Civile. We distribute coffee, soup, blankets … but mostly we give our time to homeless people.

Time well spent. Anggun thanks for yours.

You’re welcome.

Anggun performs in Bali on New Year’s Eve at Sofitel Bali Nusa Dua. www.anggun.com

You’re a Javanese artist who’s had to learn the ways of Europe … has that always been a comfortable fit for you?

It was a bit uncomfortable at first. Being Javanese means that my

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people

Ariel: “Men and women have let me know how much the subject matter has resonated with them.”

ariel leve’s literary memoir of growing up in manhattan with ‘a parent who can’t be a parent’, is a Mesmerizing portrait of something familiar gone wildly awry. photo: lucky 8.

Ariel, you’ve just published an extraordinary memoir about growing up with your mother, but you never name her in the book. Why is that?

The name was changed to protect her privacy. The story does not require I name her; I was interested in conveying the feeling of what it was like to be an only child growing up without boundaries in an emotionally unsafe world.

For those who haven’t yet had the chance to read An Abbreviated Life, can you give us an idea of what the book is about?

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It’s largely about the aftershocks of a childhood spent under siege. I grew up in Manhattan, the only child of a gifted but unstable poet. It was an unconventional and bohemian world of artists and writers. The unpredictability of my mother’s moods meant I often had to navigate an emotionally perilous landscape. So the effects of trauma on a child’s brain and how it plays out in adulthood are explored.

Adaptive behavior that allowed me to cope with stressful and anxiety-producing circumstances as a child later became maladaptive as an adult. The narrative jumps backwards and forwards in time. It examines the past through the window of adulthood.

Do you think the main theme in the book - a childhood dominated by a disturbed parent - is more common than many people think?

Judging from the response to the book, I would say it’s prevalent. Both men and women have let me know how much the subject matter has resonated with them and even though the specifics differ, a sense of helplessness is a familiar feeling they can relate to. However, I would argue that the main theme of the book is about making sense of the chaos and breaking free from the tyranny of the past. What drives the story is a desire for clarity and emancipation.

What’s the worst memory you have of growing up? What’s the best?

My memories are grounded in feelings. I can recall experiences but reciting the event is often anecdotal and devoid of sentiment.

My emotional memory is far more powerful. In that respect, the worst of it would be a chronic state of panic, dread and numbness. The best would be time spent where there was no conflict, anxiety and uncertainty. One of the reasons it was essential for me to write this book was to understand why I was unable to access feeling positive memories.

Do you think your book would have been published by such a reputable publishing house if your mother had not been such a leading name in the Manhattan literary scene?

I had a track record as a proven writer with two previous books (also published

by HarperCollins) and I’d worked as a journalist for many years so I suspect that experience helped. I had never written a memoir before but they took a chance based on the proposal I submitted.

There are many factors that go into the decision to publish a literary memoir – the subject matter, the quality of the writing, and whether or not anyone will actually buy the book. The latter is naturally a concern for publishers. I can’t say what the determining factor was when they decided to go forward.

You’re not the only person in Bali escaping strife in the West I imagine… what has Bali given you?

I like that you say strife in the West; that’s true. But there’s strife everywhere! Bali has given me balance, family, a sense of calm, and a slight improvement in the patience department. I’ve been coming to Southeast Asia since I was a small child because of my father, who still lives here, so there was always a link. It’s provided another perspective. People say New York is a bubble but so is Bali. I need both bubbles.

In the book it’s mentioned that Norman Mailer was your godfather … were you ever in touch with him, or any of the other literary figures who graced the parties at your home?

Do you think it’s harder to get literary fiction published in the US these days, compared to say, the ‘80s?

I have no idea. What I can say is that it seems there are numerous outlets for literature to be published today – fiction and non-fiction – some great literary journals and so on. You should ask Salman Rushdie what he thinks. Midnight’s Children came out in 1981. Or Toni Morrison. She’d probably have a decent answer to this question. maNhattan memoir.

The reference to Norman Mailer as my godfather in the book is there to illustrate how it was impossible for people – even lofty and willful figures – to say no to my mother. She cultivated and attracted New York’s cultural and intellectual elite. There were raucous parties at the apartment and for me, as a child, these notable people were adults who were behaving badly and keeping me awake. I didn’t know who they were and it didn’t matter. Of course later, I was able to distinguish their accomplishments and appreciate that they were great artists and thinkers in their own right – but no, I didn’t seek them out.

When was the last time you spoke to your mother?

In a dream I had a few weeks ago.

An Abbreviated Life: A Memoir is available on Amazon.

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people

diana rosa rocks out with the yak’s tony stanton. photo: saskia koerner lady diana wears: Leather fashion by @PatriciaBosdesign, available at housewives on fire, seminyak. ring by 21 dgrs. shot at salt studios.

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It’s been quite a year for you Diana, what’s going on?

Well, I competed on The Voice Indonesia earlier this year. I went through blind auditions to the battle round. Then I performed live at Taman Buaya Beat Club TVRI, covering a few of my favorite Slank songs. I performed with them in July at their concert in Bali with a couple of thousand Slankers, which was such a great experience. I’m also doing regular performances at several different venues across the island, and I’ve been blessed with feature performances with some of the island’s top bands including The Island Souls, Dice and Akustika.

You were all over the TV there for a while. How did you feel about your performance on The Voice?

I think I did alright. It was truly a great experience meeting all the coaches and competing with so many talented singers. Even though my journey was cut short, a lot of good things came from it.

Did you train formally as a singer, or do you come from a musical family?

What was it like growing up for you?

There were a lot of musicians in my family. My dad was a wonderful singer and guitarist and my mom was also a beautiful singer. But doing music for a living wasn’t a popular notion in my family. My dad would always push me to finish my education first – my musical endeavors came second. Being the naughty kid that I was, I remember skipping classes to practice with my band, or I would be off doing a gig somewhere at a small festival or bar around Jakarta.

How often do you and your band rehearse every week? You seem to have an enormous repertoire of songs . . .

Not as often as I should. Now that things are going in the right direction with some really exciting times ahead our efforts must be doubled! As far as my repertoire goes, I have my dad to thank for that. He had a massive collection of cassettes of artists from the 1920s to the 1980s. Growing up I used to go through all these cassettes and play them whenever I could – and then I’d sing over the top of them. I remember getting scolded regularly for not putting the cassettes back in the right cases.

Who are your musical heroes?

Oh boy, where to start . . . Macy Gray, Tracy Chapman, Lauryn Hill, India Arie, Jill Scott, Etta James, Angie Stone, Alanis Morissette, Grace Jones, Fergie, and as a ’90s kid, I worshipped Whitney Houston, Mariah Carey, Alicia Keys and Christina Aguilera.

What’s The Next Big Step for you?

I’ve been trying to release a passion project of mine called BALIFORNICATION. It’s taken a little longer than I planned . . . but hey, all good things come to those who wait, right? The album is kind of bits and pieces of my sporadic diary entries over the last 10 years living in Bali. The ups, the downs, my experiences and observations, the good and the bad along the way. The fusion between the Balinese culture and the West has created a unique dynamic of colors that shapes today’s society in Bali, it’s great material for lyrics! The track Balifornication,

for example, was inspired by a certain monologue by Edward Norton in the movie 25th Hour and then applied to everything Bali. I think it’s important that we look at ourselves in a kind of second degree, because if we can’t laugh at ourselves, who can we laugh at? There’s a bit of something for everyone on the album. There are a few profanities in there too on some of the ‘angry’ tracks, but it’s real, it’s raw and it’s me!

I’ve been blessed with a crazy good producer, Fallen Malaikat, who’s been doing some amazing new things on our electro/blues/funk/mash-up project with my boyfriend Graeme Storr, a brilliant closet lyricist. I’m also in the process of putting together my own band. We’re called Tainted Black. We’ve been spending a lot of time in the studio and we’re all gelling really well. We’ve got a unique sound, a kind of blues, soul, funk, rock feel to it. We’ve just had our first gig together too, at The Orchard Bar and Restaurant, so as you can imagine, we’re amped! And last but not least . . . in another very exciting project I’ve been collaborating with Aray Daulay and Dadang (Navicula) on a single in Bahasa Indonesia.

Are you writing your own material?

Yes, a little bit. I’ve found keeping a diary is a great way of collecting epic future lyrics (you just don’t see it at the time!).

Do you sing in the shower?

Bet your ass I do! Lol. It’s one of the best spots to sing, acoustically.

What would you be doing if you weren’t a singer?

I’ve asked myself this question a million times and I’ve actually done so many things over the years that I’m not sure. I’ve covered news stories for Australian TV, I’ve done business consulting, been an MC, I helped design and run a small restaurant, I’ve been a model and a presenter. I’ve done a lot of jobs! No matter what I was doing though, it was never really what I wanted to do and it was always just a way to support my musical career and pay for more studio time.

Music has always been where my heart is and I’d be truly lost without it. If I wasn’t a singer, I’d definitely still be involved in music somehow.

Ok, you’re on the deck of the Titanic and the ship is sinking and you’ve decided to stay and sing. What three songs would you choose?

Bhuahahahaha . . . I’d probably sing, I Will Survive by Gloria Gaynor, followed by Message In A Bottle by The Police and the grand finale . . . The End by The Doors.

Diana, thanks for your time and best of luck with all your plans.

Thank you! www.facebook.com/dianarosa.panjaitan

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THE CREATIVE YOUNGER SISTER IN THE POTATO HEAD FAMILY, EMMELYN GUNAWAN TALKS WITH THE YAK’S LAURIE OSBORNE. PHOTOS: LUCKY8.

SO, Emmelyn, what was it like growing up with an older brother who’s a founder of Potato Head?

When I was younger I always compared myself to my brother, Jason. I shouldn’t, but I still do. We’re both quite ambitious and are both passionate about our work, even though we don’t discuss it so much now. I know he cares a lot about me and that he wants me to succeed in whatever I do as he has done with Potato Head. At times, it’s a challenge to figure out his thought process in regards to work and his vast businesses, but now that I’m running my own, I can see that we are quite alike.

Where did you grow up?

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I grew up in Jakarta and went to Melbourne when I was 15. I studied fashion design, and was in a bubble with other creative peers for about four years. I think I was living in the studio for the most part. When I graduated, I did a short stint at a fashion company but decided to go back to Jakarta in 2008.

What brought you back?

My brother was in the process of opening Potato Head Jakarta, and he asked me to design the uniforms. I came back for three months, but the culture shock was huge and I promised myself I would never work for Potato Head again (laughs). It was just chaotic, and I didn’t know how to work with suppliers at the time. I packed my bags for six months and went to Paris and stayed there to

absorb its culture, memorise its streets and revel in its beauty. While I was there, my brother asked me to come back and work for Potato Head again, but this time managing the PR side of the business. At the time, I was obsessed with making macaroons in Paris so I said, ‘Okay, as long as I can sell my macaronis there’. We sold them for six months until I got too occupied with my actual job.

What kind of events were you involved in?

We would have Sunday markets at Potato Head Jakarta in Pacific Place. I would curate the events, working closely with the vendors to handle the products sold. We became quite well-known for our Sunday Markets and we still have them up until today. I found a way to work harmoniously with suppliers, and learn their processes. At the same time, I opened Escalier, the clothing store at the Bali beach club with two other friends who are still my core partners to this day. I was traveling here every six weeks, and Bali became a great break from Jakarta.

How do you feel about Bali now?

I’ve been living here about three years and I love it. It can be whatever you want it to be, but you have to let it come to you slowly and, at the same time, enjoy what it gives you. If you venture out of Seminyak, you will still find many craftspeople that will help you expand your imagination. I love going into their workshops; they are so simple, and humble. From the outside, it may look just like a little hut, but when you go inside there is amazing work going on.

If you are a creative person or a designer, Bali is incomparable!

How did you become involved with the hotel, Katamama?

Ronald and Jason, both founders of Potato Head, decided to build the hotel four years ago, and were working with an interior company minister of interiors. but they had so many more ideas. I was already quite familiar with the hotel’s design by then: the finish and concept. It was also during this time that I left Jakarta for Bali and began working with local suppliers on natural dye and indigo production, making textile samples and experimenting with various craft work. I met a lot of craftspeople around Bali, up in the north and east of the island. I wasn’t quite sure what I would do with my samples, but I knew I was heading in a certain direction. I had a good feeling about it. Occasionally, I would show my samples to Ronald and my brother. When they started to work on the amenities, they naturally came to me to discuss them as they wanted to showcase work by local artisans. It was a great match and a huge bonus for me to know that they love what I do and that I can continue to create what I love. Almost 100% of Katamama’s amenities are made in Bali by the local community.

Is that how Canaan came about?

Yes, it was like an organic transition into my next step. Canaan is a store and gallery with a strong emphasis on promoting traditional Indonesian products in a modern setting. It is a great platform for me to showcase all of the work that we did for Katamama as well as expanding the range and continually supporting the artisan community in Indonesia. To do this, I curate the products and bring them together in a boutique setting. Many of my customers say that it’s through the curation that Canaan has become such a unique brand/store and gallery.

How does your curation process change as you branch out to new locations?

I look at the space first and find out what I can bring from Canaan to the new location.

For example, the space in our second store in Potato Head Hong Kong is designed by one of Japan’s most renowned architects, Sou Fujimoto, who conceptualised The Serpentine Pavilion in London. With his signature allwhite grid shelving, he brought to Canaan a very modernised element, something that’s very clean and sleek. From this, I curated bold monotone products which brought their own strong identity: a contrast to the white space.

‘Big Krabby Kane’ and ‘Piggie Smalls’. I always wanted to ask: who came up with the burger names at Three Buns?

Our executive chef, Adam Penney, is a burger aficionado. He proudly refers to himself as ‘the burger chef’. As a lover of hip hop music and street culture, that’s where he finds his inspiration. But if you look at our other wacky names within the establishments, they’re really down to all of us in the creative team, including Ronald and Jason. We love sitting down over the big table and just throwing crazy ideas around.

Will you continue to be a part of the group’s aesthetic in the future?

Yes, of course. Canaan is part of the PTTFAMILY. For me, it provides a holistic platform for the organisation by showcasing the work that we do with local people. It brings an element of human interaction between designers and artisans through the work that we provide, and through our journals, photos and documentation. ptthead.com katamama.com escalier-store.com canaanbali.com

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Nehanda beauty inside and out. words: stephanie mee Photo: joshua A. Madison

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“The reality for me is that the most beautiful people are the ones that have the greatest self-worth and confidence. They have an inner light that shines, and they brighten up places when they go there. And in the real world, those are the people that are really magnetic”, says model, entrepreneur and artist Nehanda Nyanda Rusere.

Born and raised in Zimbabwe, Nehanda studied in South Africa before moving to Melbourne to complete her studies. After graduation she stayed in Australia and worked in IT for a prominent NGO. On the surface everything seemed normal – she had a good job, a boyfriend and a decent social life. However, below the surface it was a whole different story.

And she should know. This is a woman who walks into a room and people take notice. And it’s not just because of her striking good looks or the fact that she’s most likely dressed from head to toe in vibrant, brightly hued ensemble. It’s all about what’s radiating out from the inside. This is a woman who is comfortable in her own skin, self-assured, and positively beaming good vibes. But it took a lot of hard work and determination for Nehanda to get to this point.

She says: “I was 27 and I was 20 kilos overweight and really depressed. I couldn’t sleep, and I had very low self-worth. In Australia at that time there were very few African people and it was the kind of society that wasn’t very inclusive of other races. Not that they were overly racist or anything like that. It was more the way the media was and how the Aboriginal people were treated. And that chipped away at my self worth.

“Over time I just found that I didn’t love myself. In fact, I was hoping I would seriously turn into a white person. It was like lighter was better. And I was looking at how Africa was changing, and how there was brainwashing there as well to believe that lighter is better too. Even here in Indonesia it’s all about bleaching skin. It’s the same disease for black people all over the world.”

Nehanda tried to conform to society’s definition of beauty, but she still didn’t feel validated. She put up with emotional and psychological abuse from her boyfriend because she didn’t feel that she deserved better, and she was drinking and partying in an attempt to numb herself. She says: “By the end of that I was in such a bad place that I felt like I’d rather be dead than continue on that way.”

Change was imperative, and Nehanda started by moving out of the space she shared with her boyfriend and onto a friend’s couch. She began to focus on what wasn’t working in her life and became very aware of body image and self-love.

“I had tried losing weight before,” she says, “but I realized that unless you believe you’re good enough, your body will just hold on to the way that it looks because it’s your thoughts that are toxic. It’s also your environment that can be toxic, which is why I had to change some of my friends as well.”

Nehanda realized that IT wasn’t fulfilling her, so she quit her job and began to do community work speaking about mental health and cultural identity in communities with Sudanese refugee boys and girls. She also started reconnecting with her cultural and ancestral heritage and rediscovering herself as an artist, dancer and model.

started to grow. And that’s what brought me to Bali.”

Prior to coming to Bali, Nehanda had discovered photographic storytelling, which aims to capture the soul of a person rather than just their external beauty. She decided she wanted to create a project where different photographers, stylists and designers could come together and photograph women of all different shapes, sizes and ages. She put an ad out on Ubud Connect, and the response was overwhelming.

She says: “I was contacted by hundreds of women, some pregnant, some overweight, some with scars, all writing to me saying they had always wanted to do a photo shoot where they could capture their true beauty. There were also tons of artists who wanted to be on board. Shortly after I arrived, I met Gaelyn Larrick, a stylist, makeup artist and former model, and we clicked right away.”

The more you love yourself, the more you get what you deserve and what you’re worth, and your life gets better in every single way

Yet even though Nehanda was creating positive changes in her life, she still came across doubts and opposition. She says: “I remember going home (to Zimbabwe) two years ago and I had my hair natural in an afro, and I remember people saying to me, ‘Oh you’re too African now.’

I’m like, ‘What does that even mean?’

“We’ve actually forgotten who we are, and I think this stems from colonialism.

With most indigenous cultures there has been an aggressive push to lose their culture and lose their essence. When you do that, you create really great slaves of the system because people who don’t know who they are will accept anything. If you take away the roots of a person, they’re easier to manipulate.”

Despite opposition from others, Nehanda stayed true to herself. “As my self worth grew, my ability to create a life that had elements of things that I loved

Nehanda and Gaelyn collaborated on a few projects where they photographed groups of women from all different walks of life, and they discovered that besides being a unique art project, the gatherings were also powerfully healing. Many women came away from the experience feeling lighter after tackling their body issues and clearing negative belief systems. Many felt more empowered, and almost all felt a real sense of sisterhood with the other women.

The photo shoots were such a transformative experience that Nehanda and Gaelyn decided to create Inner Essence Embodied and offer Storytelling Photographic Ceremonies that incorporate energy healing, art and photography to help women cultivate their inner beauty power, and self-expression.

“Bali really took things to the next level for me. I felt like I had done a certain amount of work on myself, but I hadn’t really been giving back, and so Bali allowed me to create my own business where I could help people and do what I loved.

“Aside from Inner Essence, my mission is to continue spreading the word of body image and self-worth, especially in the modelling industry. I hope that I can bring to the world the idea that what you believe about yourself may not necessarily be true. You don’t have to be or live a certain way if it’s not serving you. You can be yourself and you can be beautiful in your own unique way.

The more you love yourself, the more you get what you deserve and what you’re worth, and your life gets better in every single way.”

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Photo: Stephane Sensey

Rowan Kane talks to Whulandary Herman about her humble childhood, playing a prostitute in her first film and why Bali floats her boat.

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whulan: back seat driver.

Hi Whulan, can you tell us a little about where you’re from and how you grew up?

I grew up with my amak (grandmother) in a small village near Padang called Batang Anai. It was very traditional. I lived in a kampung house – a rumah gadang with a view of rolling hills at the front and a beach at the back. I was raised by two strong women who I still look up to: my mother and my amak. There were five other girls in the house whose parents couldn’t be with them, so it was a bit like living in a military school. Discipline was strongly enforced.

You became famous through winning Miss Universe Indonesia and going on from there to participate in the worldwide Miss Universe contest. I’m sure you learned a lot from this experience and especially interacting with women from all over the world. How do you see the position of women in Indonesia today and in the future?

I was fortunate enough to meet a lot of inspiring women during the contests. Everyone there had a strong personal ambition and a drive to succeed. I’ve met inspiring women before of course, many of them in Indonesia, where often there’s a strong will to succeed and to break through traditional glass ceilings. What’s even more admirable is that many of these women successfully juggle careers and family roles – my mother is a prime example. I can only hope to achieve what these women have done and balance both career and family successfully.

You recently starred in your first film in which you play a prostitute. Was that a difficult role to play and how did you prepare for it?

Bidadari Terakhir was my first film so I was pretty nervous, to be honest. I focused my preparation on three aspects: understanding the plot and characters of the story; getting up to speed with my acting skills and thirdly being able to identify with the role I was playing. For the first aspect I spent time with the writer to really understand who the characters were and why things turned out the way they had. On the second part – and I have my director to thank for helping me here – we talked every night and had readings of the script and he helped me to understand how to act and prepare for the role. For the third aspect, I knew that I needed to understand the perspective of sex workers in Indonesia, so I went with my mom to Kota. We got turned away repeatedly because some of them felt we were making fun of them but I did manage to speak to a few who were kind enough to share. I like to believe that I have become more understanding and respectful of others as a result. I’m not saying that I support sex-work but I do believe that we shouldn’t be judgmental of others – everyone deserves to be treated with respect. I don’t feel it’s within my right to judge others.

It looks like you’ve made quite a few trips to Bali recently, what’s your favorite part of the island and where do you like to hang out when you’re here?

Yes! Bali is one of my favourite places in the world. I’ve been visiting the island a lot recently because I’m planning to have a fashion business here and have been looking for a fashion production house. I love Berawa and I love Ubud, but there are so many beautiful spots it’s hard to choose.

What kind of projects are you looking to take on in the future? Acting? Fashion? Business?

I know this may sound ambitious but I’m planning to tackle all the things you mention. In the next two years I want to develop my acting career and also move forward with my fashion business. Acting for me is something that is out of my comfort zone, but performing excites me because it’s a new challenge and something different for me. I’m also challenging myself by taking singing lessons, just to prove to myself that nothing is out of my reach. As for fashion, a couple of years ago I started developing my own line – Whulandary Collection, which focuses a 100 percent on Indonesian techniques and materials . . . batik, songket. I see a tremendous opportunity to change the perception of these traditional techniques, which are currently seen as old-fashioned. I want to make them young and fashionable.

What inspires you?

I try to find beauty in everything in this universe. I really learned a lot from my mom and my grandmother about how to be strong and have self-worth. They always encouraged me to work hard and make my own future and told me, “If you want something you should go get it yourself. Things will not drop from the sky, so work hard.”

Travel also inspires me. I like to observe and learn from different cultures. I once lost my wallet in Bali and was stuck without money. A very kind taxi driver told me he would help me and send me back to my hotel. When I arrived, he refused to accept any money, even though I knew he really needed it. He told to me he just wanted to help someone in a bad situation and that I should pass the good deed on to someone else. It just reminded me to be less calculative and to help others without expecting anything in return.

Whulan, many thanks for your time.

My pleasure.

with thanks to Rolls Royce Indonesia.

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Belinda, tell us a bit about where you’re from and how you grew up . . .

I graced planet Earth with my majestic presence in Jakarta on December 24, 1992. My mother is Indonesian mixed Chinese and my father is German.

Growing in Jakarta was challenging, especially with a mixed background; it’s pretty hard to figure out where you belong. I had a lighter skin tone than everyone else but I spoke fluent bahasa . . . yet I couldn’t fit in with the locals.

I was lucky enough to be placed in two international schools that surrounded me with kids who had the same confused culture-clash problems as I had. It was pretty interesting. I think kids in Jakarta, and Indonesia in general, grow up a little faster than everywhere else in Asia, just because we are exposed so quickly to the outside world.

We’ve seen your FB videos . . . you could do stand up. Where did that sense of humour come from?

Why thank you! Funny that you mention that. I have piles of videos back home of me doing stand up and theatre comedy when I was growing up. I love comedy and comedians . . . Jim Carrey, Chris Rock, Jackie Chan . . . and I guess I mix that with a bunch of childhood cartoons. These are the main ingredients, and from that comes the randomness. I sometimes look in the mirror and question my sanity.

We’re guessing you don’t much mind what people think of you...

The last thing that bothers me is what people think about me. I’ve always stood up for who I am in spite of other people’s opinions of me and what I do with my life. I guess you can say it’s also gotten me into trouble, but I always think to myself that you can never please everybody at the end of the day . . . so you might as well just stick to your badass self and conquer the world one strawberry-filled jam doughnut at a time.

One day you’re modeling, the next you’re dressed up as a moo cow.

What’s with that?

About 80 percent of my day consists of making fun of myself. I love it. And I love it even more when people are entertained and they laugh. If I can make a person’s day a little bit better with a giggle, I’m more than satisfied with that.

Modeling is a form of art for me, where I can express myself in photos through beauty. Coming from a theatre background, I’ve always attached emotions to modeling to not only make pictures seem more real but to also capture a moment. That, for me, is what modeling is about.

Ok so - what are the five words that best describe you?

Strawberry Filled Jam Doughnuts With coffee Lol, ok. Tell us about an event that had a big impact on your life.

The biggest impact on my life so far was my move from Jakarta to Singapore. I moved to Singapore by myself when I was 18 thinking I could be independent.

Boy was I wrong. I was living by myself and did a course in make-up artistry, which eventually got me an assisting job during the day for a professional freelance make-up artist, but I also worked in restaurants and lounges during the evenings, which ignited this hospitality fire in me. It was no walk in the park. It was many hours of hard work, plus at the time I was in the dumbest relationship that drained me emotionally. In the two years that I was there, I learned a lot about myself. You don’t really know how strong you are until

being strong is your only option. I finally threw in the towel and moved my sorry ass to Bali, which is when I finally broke out of my shell. Best decision yet.

What are you most proud of?

My parents. They have always had my back, and they still do. My parents even each other out, filling in what the other lacks, so they’re literally balanced. I’ve seen them go through tough times together, and this has taught me to never give up. I’m really lucky (and proud) to say they are still happily married, and still showing me what a strong relationship is all about – to value love as a whole.

What do you dream about most often?

Growing up I always had nightmares. It was either vampires hunting me down, or zombies, but this was probably a lot to do with the fact I’ve always had a love for horror movies. Recently I’ve had dreams of going up on stage and forgetting my lines, and having to improvise on the spot.

What’s the maddest thing you’ve ever done?

Oh God. Where do I start? I’ve done a lot of crazy things in my short life.

Probably the first one that pops into my head was when I was in high school – I used to sneak out of the house a lot, but it was my method of sneaking out that you could say was slightly mad. So my room was on the second storey and I had a balcony, which was right next to the roof of the garage. If you climbed up the roof, it led to a back part of the house that was the laundry room and down a ladder to the garage, then out the back door. I locked my room on the inside so it looked like I was sleeping, then climbed from my balcony and ninja’d my way up the roof, balancing in mid-air in the middle of night. I used to give myself a curfew – I had to be home before the sun came up.

What does food mean to you?

Food is life. Literally. Growing up with an executive Chef father and a mother that owns her own food supply factory was definitely a privilege in terms of giving me a knowledge and appreciation of food.

Talk to us about Kilo restaurant and the restaurant business as a whole . . . is it all long hours and moaning customers?

The first thing that attracted me to Kilo was the concept. The whole philosophy of ‘Kilo’ itself is based around communicating memorable moments through delicious food, music and soul in homey scenery. I think people feel this when they come to Kilo; it filters out a certain crowd of guests that just want to have a great time. You don’t really feel the hours when you’re enjoying what you do.

What’s the best thing on the menu?

Beef Tongue Tacos, BBQ Pork Ribs, Wasabi Tuna Tartar, Squid Ink Rice and the oh-so-mouth-watering Chocolate Lava Cake.

What do you eat all the time at Kilo?

Squid Ink Rice. All day, everyday. Or until my jeans don’t fit anymore.

If we were to order one cocktail and a starter at Kilo, what would you recommend?

My go to signature cocktail is either the Sake Sangria or A Sure Thing, I can’t choose between the two. Recommended choice of starter I would say Seafood Ceviche, a fresh combo of octopus, kimachi and tuna. One scoop of that and it’s literally like a party in your mouth.

Belinda Betz, thank you for your time.

My pleasure. www.kilokitchen.com/bali

belinda betz minds kilo for a madcap clientele. photo: stephane sensey. words: tony stanton

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Driven to design by Jakarta traffic, Andi Yulianti is the force behind jewellry firm House of Jealouxy, handmade with love.

Photo: Hakim Satriyo

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Besides being a jewellery designer to the stars, who is Andi Yulianti?

Hmm . . . the first question and definitely the hardest. Ha ha. I think I am a person who truly cherishes the good in people and whatever the world has to offer. Some people say that I’m naive, but I prefer to always see the positive. I love to be surrounded by people who give off a radiant atmosphere. I laugh a lot, and every time things go downhill I always try to brush it off and not take it too seriously, because nothing lasts forever.

What were you like as a kid?

My mom said she would always lose me and then find me talking or singing to strangers. Maybe that’s not a good example for life nowadays.

How and when did jewellery design come into your life?

I was an hotelier before and have also worked in a corporate multinational company. At one time, living in Jakarta, I got tired of commuting every day. It cost about three or four hours of my life per day because of the traffic. I knew I couldn’t live like that. I realised I needed to do something from home to make money.

So at first it was nothing serious. I was in between jobs and I needed something to keep me busy. I watched YouTube tutorials and also blog tutorials on how to make jewellery and I made pieces for myself. Then one of my friends who owned a store in Bandung loved it, and she said, “Why don’t you try to make a few things and sell them in my shop?” From there everything kind of took off.

In 2009 you started House of Jealouxy. What’s the story behind the name?

I love music. I think it’s one of the best things that the world has to offer. I really loved the song House of Jealous Lovers by The Rapture, so at first I wanted to give my brand the name House of Jealousy. But when I checked online there was already a band with the same name, so I tweaked it a bit to become House of Jealouxy so I wouldn’t have any issues in the future. And I like it because people always ask “why jealousy?” It makes people think and come back to me with curiousity.

Starting your own business is no easy feat, especially in the competitive fashion industry. What’s kept you going through tough times?

I think to answer this I will have to go back to my answer to the first question. I always try to be good and treat people well. In the fashion industry everything is connected. We have to have special relationships with celebrities, stylists, retailers, magazines and bloggers. We just have to help each other and move forward together. And word-of-mouth also plays a very crucial part in

this industry. It’s really a wild jungle. I think another important aspect is just to always try to make or re-invent something new and different so it gives you a certain character. Then people recognise your creations, even from afar.

At what moment did you know that the brand was truly successful?

Maybe when I got out of the studio and started meeting strangers on the street, in restaurants or at the cinema and they were wearing pieces from my collections. I think that is the best feeling of all. It’s also nice to be featured on album covers and see celebrities wear my brand for the red carpet, designer fashion shows and magazine fashion spreads. But to be worn by strangers, I don’t know, that’s the highest of highs. And oddly enough, whenever people copy and sell it for a lower price. The sincerest form of flattery.

In your opinion, what is it that people love about House of Jealouxy?

Every time I make a collection I always think of my clients, but I mix in my own taste, which is beautiful and fierce at the same time. My target market is people between 15 and 45 years old, so I always try to make a spread of pieces that will appeal to all. Young clients, edgy clients, sophisticated clients, and hijab clients, they all have to be represented in one collection with a price range that is also affordable. That’s why House of Jealouxy includes pieces that are not made with real diamonds, gold or precious stones. However, the techniques we use are just as complicated as the high-end international brands. Oh and one more thing: people love stories, so it’s important to always update your clients with the story behind the scenes through your social media.

Your collections exude a sense of travel and adventure. For example, the Pure Shores pieces are named after famous tropical hotspots, and your Midnight City line is named after cosmopolitan cities. How important is travel to you?

Very important. I love travelling both alone and with friends.

Either way, you can find a ton of inspiration in things that you don’t see in your daily life. It’s also a very good opportunity to source materials. It really opens your eyes to new things. I also really enjoy people watching. I like to see what they wear in real life because in the end you need to make money.

If you could go anywhere in the world and money was no object, where would you go?

Rivendell – home of the elves in Lord of The Rings. S.M.

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PEOPLE Elroy Jackson heads north to Bedugul to meet Aliza Salviandra, new director for Handara Golf & Resort. photo: mark Carolan.

fairway spirit.

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Hi Aliza, can you tell us a little about yourself?

I can say that I’m adventurous like traveling and learning about other cultures and values. That’s why I spent most of my adult life studying and working abroad. I graduated from Northeastern Uni in Boston majoring in Business Admin, worked for one year in State Street Bank, then did my MBA in International Business Law. A Law Master’s Degree followed after that. Finally I got my Law Degree from the University of Indonesia, was a lawyer for seven years and passed the Indonesian Bar Exam about two years ago. Last year I was given the task of managing Handara Golf & Resort.

Those are some impressive credentials. I’ll call you if ever I’m in jail! Can you tell us a bit about your famous grandfather, Ibnu Sutowo [the Indonesian army officer, Cabinet Minister and former head of the Indonesian oil and gas producer Pertamina, and the founder of Handara].

My grandfather was truly a remarkable man. He was very much involved in the struggles of Indonesian independence, and helped build the nation. He was a visionary in many ways. He also played a very influential part in my life, but to me he was just like any other grandfather, very affectionate. He loved having us grandkids around; me not realizing how significant he was until I grew up.

Supposedly, he fell in love with golf accidentally. He used to play tennis. But after hurting his back he wanted to try a ‘safer’ sport and started golfing. He was hooked after his first game, and became a passionate golfer. So much so that he decided to build the Handara course to make the then relatively unknown sport popular.

To be honest I’ve never wanted to be known solely because of my family background. That’s one of the reasons I enjoyed living abroad. But I’m still carrying his name. It’s touching that many people remember him with respect. Whatever I do and decide for Handara, it’s not just for my family, but also to carry out his legacy. He sincerely wanted to help out the local community. So to fulfill his wishes, we recently started quarterly CSR Charity programs around Bedugul area. We’re humbled that many groups have started giving out charity through us and we hope to expand the programs to cover all of Bali moving forward.

When was your first day at work at the family business here in Bali?

I moved to Bali in February 2014, and started working at Handara in April. It was a big challenge because I knew nothing about running a golf course and resort. I had to learn everything from scratch but thanks to that, I gained new knowledge in many areas. As they say, learning new things is good and healthy for your brain!

We noticed the golf Carnivale a few months ago, and the potential of this being a fun family day for years to come. Are there any other new concepts Handara will introduce?

Basically the new concept was to introduce golf as a fun sport to a younger, wider market. We need the younger generation to fall in love with golf and being a mother myself, I wanted to have a kind of family day, something that combined golf and family friendly activities. While the husband plays golf, the wife and kids can enjoy the carnival. I met a consultant who helped shaped the concept into

being. And that’s how the First Hackers & Slackers was born. The feedback was very encouraging. Next time maybe we’ll do a special theme or something, we want to see more children and young folks get hooked on golf. I’m also hoping that my son will also fall in love with the sport.

How has your move to Bali been so far, you’re a Jakarta city girl aren’t you?

Yes, I’m a city girl. To tell the truth the first few months weren’t too easy. The last seven years I’ve been used to the hype and fast pace of Jakarta’s lifestyle. The slow island life in Bali was a shock to the system. But as I got used to my work at Handara and with my family’s support, I fell in love with Balinese culture and its people.

As a family woman, mother and wife, how do you find the time to juggle your professional and personal life?

I’ve always juggled different parts of my life. I was heavily pregnant with my second child during my Bar exam; I was also pregnant and breastfeeding with my first child throughout my lawyering and university days. I guess you just have to be smart with your time management. I always try to be there for my husband and kids. But I want to be a good role model for my children. I want them to see that life is hard but when you achieve what you aimed for, the satisfaction is beyond anything.

We’re very happy to hear about the changes at Handara, it must be tough to bring in new levels of professional excellence to a business that’s been here since 1974. What are some of the major challenges you’ve faced?

The biggest challenge is to change itself. We’ve been trying to revamp the whole Handara culture. Generally people don’t like change. So our biggest challenge is changing the mindset and work ethic. I wouldn’t be here without the support of our brand new management team. We’re trying to be more disciplined at work. We get together every two months to have a general assembly for team building. You’d be amazed at how much people can make progress if they’re all on the same page.

Are you planning a celebrity golf tournament anytime next year, we are hearing all sorts of things in the rumour mill?

We’re trying to bring more awareness that Handara is back. We were delighted to be chosen as the venue for the inaugural Yak Magazine Golf Invitational and to have Miss Indonesia playing golf at Handara again. We’re definitely trying to get more celebrities, but I’ll keep that in the bag for now. We want to build your anticipation.

In your own words, how would you describe Handara?

Evolutionary. People-based. Family. Challenging. Loving. Committed.

Thanks very much for your time, just one more question. How did the course come to be named Handara?

Well, this is what I found out from my grandfather’s memoir. When he played golf for the first time, one of his daughters was with him. So with that fond memory, the course was named after her, my mother. www.balihandaracountryclub.com

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PEOPLE Marie: Sitting pretty.

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Casamayor founder Marie Schmidt brings colour, atmosphere and great materials to Bali spaces. interview: stephanie mee. photo: lucky 8.

MARIE, can you tell us about what you were doing before Bali?

I studied fashion design at a well-established French school, La Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture, but then realized that the fashion industry did not suit me. I have always been drawn to antiques and fabrics, as well as the idea of putting beauty in everyday life. I was slowly moving towards interior design when I first met the very talented interior designer Francois Schmidt, whom I married years later. In 2002 I opened the gallery NOSE in Paris where I sold many products found in Bali that were made by various designers and craftsman from all over the world. I went on to open my own office where I focused on interior design and collecting and selling vintage chairs under the name ‘Sitting Pretty’.

When did you make your first trip to Bali and what were your first impressions?

The first time I visited Bali was in 1998. I have never felt a similar feeling of enthusiasm for any other place in the world, and my husband and I have travelled quite a lot. Everything in Bali moved me: the amazing scenery, the locals, the odours, the food . . . it was as if I had found my true home and everything felt in place.

What inspired you to open Casamayor?

I moved to Bali with my husband and son a year ago (my two daughters live abroad). Casamayor slowly took shape in my mind and came very naturally to me. Everything inspires me here and there is a non-stop flow of creativity. I really love having a home in Bali, and my inspiration comes from all the beautiful materials and handcrafted objects here. There is no limit to what you can create.

What I look for is to bring comfort into a home through warm lights, beautiful objects and simple things made of singular materials. I have always been motivated by the idea that you can create a nice environment without spending a lot of money and by using many little tricks.

If you could choose three words to describe Casamayor, what would they be?

Colours, atmosphere, materials.

In your opinion, what places in Bali stand out for amazing design?

Potato Head Beach Club, Alila Villas Uluwatu, and Shiro Japanese restaurant in Seminyak.

What are the hottest design trends happening on the island right now?

Potato Head is working on a new hotel project in Canggu designed by the amazing Brazilian architect, Marcio Kogan (Studio MK 27). And of course the villas that my husband is currently building in Canggu (BSS).

Any advice for first-time decorators looking to create a sweet and stylish space?

In my opinion, the most important thing is to be true to your self.

This means listening to what you like and what inspires you. You should also try to create a space that is easy to live in. Aim for something that is comfortable with a fluid circulation.

What are a few of your favourite pieces at Casamayor at the moment?

Some of my favourite pieces are the Balinese shadow candles because they bring the spirit of Bali into every home. I also love the rattan objects collection that includes mirrors, lights and day beds; as well as the bronze casted lamps, especially the ones with ceramic shades.

If you could spend the perfect day on Bali and money was no object, what would you do?

I would start with breakfast at RUKO in Canggu with my daughters, lunch at Amankila near the beach with my family, and sunset drinks and dinner in Seminyak at The Legian Hotel.

What feeds your soul at the moment?

My soul needs love and peace and to know that my family is happy and healthy. If that is in place, then I can start dreaming of Casamayor.

Where do you see yourself in 10 years?

I hope being lucky enough to live as long as possible surrounded by the love of my family and friends and being able to give back the same to others.

www.casamayorbali.com

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WHO is Lisa Crosswhite?

I am an artist at heart who somehow decided that it was a good idea that I should start a retail business – I love building things and exploring the boundaries in life, conceptualising ideas, and giving myself to the execution process. I like being excited about my work, my friends, my lover . . . If I'm not I sink like a deflated balloon. I'm extremely independent, and a lover of liberty. I like being around people who feel absolutely free to be themselves, and hold themselves to a moral obligation to be true to whatever that is.

Are you a lover or a fighter?

I am intensely both. I am so emotionally transparent that if you piss me off, or I see an injustice, it’s very difficult to hold back. This aggression is a utility in business, when channelled appropriately, but the channelling process is difficult when your fire is not easily tamed. Similarly, when I love someone I can't be bothered to hold back the ocean. The best feeling in the world is being in love with a beautiful soul, and just being absolutely in awe of them.

Tell us how you grew up . . .

My first memories were from a tiny little German immigrant town in Manitoba, Canada. I lived there from ages three to eight and helped my dad chop wood; my mom made jam from wild berries around our house. They were both pharmacists who met in college in Winnipeg – Canada's ugliest city. My mom was the only Chinese person in that little town and we were the weird little “halfer” kids. We then moved to one of the most beautiful places in Canada, the Okanagan Valley. This is our Napa Valley – full of rolling hills of vineyards and orchards . . . it was lovely . . . I had a very Christian upbringing. We went to a private school where we weren't allowed to say, “oh my God”. And as it goes for typical Chinese immigrants’ children, we were pushed to be over-achievers in everything . . . from piano, to ballet, to figure skating, to swimming, to karate, to extra-curricular math. When I was 12, my parent's split, and my mom moved us to Vancouver. I was a crazy rebellious teenager. I had given up the church I was raised with, I had no curfew, I was clubbing at 14 and rolling with drug dealers. I was totally mad at the world. I did go to college, however, and began travelling all over Asia for modelling work. I grew up a bit . . .

Who were your heroes when you were 10?

Probably God. I was raised very Christian, and in a very strict, dogmatic, Baptist, sort of way. We had to rehearse paragraphs of scripture by heart, and mistakes were disciplined. I remember being very close to God as a kid – and when I think back, it was my childlike brainwashed version of connecting with the energy of the universe as a whole. I would pray and cry, and ask God to make the whole world a better place.

It was nice to feel something deep.

What was the tipple you first got drunk on?

I think it was like Bacardi Breezers or something lame like that. I was out drinking with a few kids – we were 13 – and someone's older brother had booted for us. We were at our middle school park at night, like total hooligans, thinking we were so badass.

How did you become a model?

I was discovered by the same dude who discovered Coco Rocha in Vancouver. We were at the same mother agency. Given that she is much better looking than I am, she became a total supermodel and I didn’t. I was asked if I'd be keen on modelling in Asia where they were apparently into the “half-Asian look”, and I thought, “why not?!” So I began getting overseas contracts from age 19 and throughout college. I spent more time travelling my last few years of college than at home. I stopped modelling when I graduated.

Where did your business name, Gnossem, come from?

I made it up. It’s based on the Gnossiennes by Erik Satie – a French composer. I wanted something short but weird. Something slightly different, as our brand and product

stands for independent taste . . . it had to be off the beaten track. I found out later that it’s a master number 11 in numerology, which is also one of my key numbers.

Something about the name just felt right. Over time, I've thought to change it tons of times as its phonetically difficult for some people (the “g” is silent, as in gnome), but it just stuck.

Have you always known you were going to be successful in business?

Not at all . . . I never even thought of going into business until I was bored and demotivated at my previous job. I was researching some stuff for an advertising client and thought, “geez, e-commerce has such a scope for further growth, and independent style is not that easy to find online . . . why don't I try to build the solution”. To be honest, I was planning to go into something a lot more nerdy. I had studied political science in college, graduated on the Dean’s List, and was considering doing a Master’s Degree in public policy. My family is full of nerds and artists. A few people, like my mother, also run businesses now but for the most part we are not the most business-minded bunch. Even now, I wouldn't consider Gnossem or myself highly successful. I will, once we have millions of customers worldwide who absolutely love our stuff. We do, however, try very hard.

How did you handle the rapid growth in your company?

Through repeated fire-fighting. Until recently, it was only me at the helm, and there was a plethora of crises to attend to. While there was groundwork that we were building on, much of the day-to-day operations were about fixing leaky holes as we grew. We didn't have time to just dock the ship, repair and then set off again. The most important thing to handling growth is focus. It’s been key to me to understand what our focus is each week, and make sure this is clearly communicated through the team, so we can efficiently achieve our goals. I've also learned that you can run much faster with the right people. The wrong people just sit on the mountain, adding dead weight.

Gnossem’s Instagram tagline is “Style For The Unboring Woman”. Define Unboring . . .

Unboring is not boring. Boring is beige opinions, not caring about what you do or how you do it. Boring is dressing and acting like a generic product of your culture. Not caring to find yourself. It’s mundane conversation. It’s living life out of obligation to a set of beliefs that you don't care to challenge. It’s cheap thrills, like Miley Cyrus riding a wrecking ball. It’s the expected. There are large numbers of unboring people out there. I hang with them all the time. I work with them. I am inspired by them. They are the kind of folk who listen to their heart and spirit, and do things in their own way.

Are you happy?

My emotional default state is happy! I had a few years of being default depressed.

Work and social life can keep you busy, but it’s when you’ve disconnected and you’re alone that you can feel what your default is. Being default happy is the product of getting all your ducks in order, personally and professionally, as well as reminding yourself on a daily basis how lucky you are. I love feeling grateful. There is so much to be grateful for. www.gnossem.com

melissa legger meets lisa crosswhite to talk god, gear and online indi design retailer gnossem . . .

g spot.

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people twenty four years at the top . . . gail elliot is still rolling. She talked to the Ă–.

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The Little Joe Woman.

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GAIL, how are you today?

I’m well . . . busy, as usual. I’ve just spent the morning with a blogger from Singapore working on a Little Joe Woman by Gail Elliott collaboration; I have emails to get through; will eat lunch at my desk; have pre-production fittings this afternoon for our next collection and am in the middle of designing Resort 2015.

Looking forward to the weekend!

Many will know you as one of the biggest supermodels of your era and that you're good friends with Cindy Crawford, Yasmin Le Bon and Helena Christensen. What was that time like for you?

I was extremely fortunate to enjoy a successful 24-year career as a model, based in New York in the ‘80s and ‘90s. Our lives were so full, fun and crazy but we worked very hard. It was so normal to us to be walking the runway for Chanel in Paris one day and jumping on the Concorde to be shooting in New York for Vogue the next.

We’d hang out with stylists, photographers, actors and rock stars flying around the world to exotic islands to work or to play. I’m still very good friends with Cindy, Yasmin and Helena and they were all my bridesmaids when my husband and business partner, Joe Coffey, and I were married 17 years ago in the Hamptons, New York.

The list of photographers you've worked with over the years must be to die for. Who was the best for you?

I worked with everyone over the years: Steven Meisel, Irving Penn, Patrick Demarchelier, Arthur Elgort, Helmet Newton, Bill King, Peter Lindberg, Albert Watson, Max Vadukul, Mario Testino, Bruce Weber, Andrew Macpherson, Michel Comte, Paolo Roversi, Eddy Kohli and so many more.

They were all amazing to work with in their own way. Irving Penn’s studio was very quiet – no music, no loud laughing and everyone called him Mr Penn. He shot me for American Vogue many times and his images were always stunning. Albert Watson was always fun to work with; him being Scottish and me being British, we had a similar sense of humour. Steven Meisel was shy and his “dream team” of hair and makeup were legends – Oribe Canales and Francois Nars – who would make you look incredible in Steve’s images. I worked with Helmet Newton, just once, for a Valentino campaign at Lake Como, Italy and he would call me “child”. Bruce Weber’s shoots were always fun with lots of people around – boys, kids, animals.

Bruce loved to be surrounded by people. I shot a great Versace campaign with him, and Vogue’s inimitable Grace Coddington as stylist. I could go on and on . . .

What do you think about the modeling industry these days?

Obviously, it’s all very different now. Back then, there were about 25 of us who worked consistently every day for 15 years or more, and people knew who we were. Now there are thousands of models and it’s hard to keep up with them because they change from season to season. Back then at fashion shows, we’d be doing five to seven looks per designer for their runway show, now models are booked to walk in one look only. I imagine it would be a very difficult industry for a model to be in these days because of the huge amount of competition.

How long have you been living in Bali? How do you compare this chapter of your life to say New York, The Hamptons, England or Sydney?

We’ve been in Bali for almost seven months and it’s been a delight. Every chapter of my life – from living in the middle of New York City, then the Hamptons, London for stints and more recently, Sydney – has been very different. Each of those places has been an enriching experience. This new chapter is just as exciting.

And now you're a designer and businesswoman who runs stores in

Australia, Bali, online and wholesales to the likes of Myer department store.

How was the transition from model to maven?

It was actually a lot more challenging and more involved than people think. It’s easy to just turn it into a sound-bite and say “model turned designer”, as if one minute I was striding down a runway and the next minute we had a fully fledged fashion business with multiple boutiques, but the reality of it couldn’t have been more further from that.

Tell us about your label Little Joe Woman. How did the name come about?

During my career as a model and working with all the most talented designers, stylists, photographers, magazine editors and models, I began to feel a need to express my understandings and fashion thoughts and feelings creatively. My first designs were simple slip dresses and camisoles. Pieces I needed for myself and couldn’t seem to find in stores at the time, and that worked with my hectic travel schedule. They were easy to pack and great to wear. The brand was started by myself and husband Joe when we were living in The Hamptons. It started as a fun project which we saw as “our baby” so named it Little Joe. How do you feel about the changing face of fashion with online sales compared to how it uses to be back in the day?

The fashion landscape has totally changed in every sense – from the modeling world to the way brands are marketed and how customers find and buy what they’re looking for. For a fashion business, the traditional paradigm of having stand-alone boutiques can be quite a luxury in some ways, because so many people now prefer to buy their entire wardrobes without leaving the house.

Brands are now global in every way, no matter where you’re based, and that’s both an opportunity and a challenge when you have your own label.

How did you meet your husband?

We met on New Year’s Eve, at four o’clock in the morning at Kinsella’s – a nightclub he used to own in Sydney. Helena Christensen was dating (INXS lead singer) Michael Hutchence and we had come to spend Christmas on the Gold Coast with Michael’s family. For New Year we drove to Sydney stopping in Byron Bay on the way and ended up at Kinsella’s. Michael knew Joe and introduced us.

What does a typical day for Gail and Joe entail?

When we’re in Bali a typical day for us starts with Joe waking at 6am. If he surfs I’ll either sleep a little longer or take a beach walk. We have a semi-private Pilates class at 7.30am twice a week. We also have a private Bahasa Indonesia class at 8am twice a week at our villa. I make breakfast at the villa or we’ll eat out, then we head to our office for the day where we have a mixture of phone calls, fittings, design meetings, accountant/ business meetings, staff updates and answer emails. Lunch is either at our desk or at a restaurant and we head home around 6pm for me to cook dinner, which I love to do.

If I wasn't in fashion I would be . . .

I think I would have taken up fashion portrait photography. I also love interior design so I could have gone in that direction too.

What makes you smile?

Seeing Joe walking towards me and locking eyes with each other across a crowded place, like at the airport.

What advice would you give your young self?

I wouldn’t change anything so far, so my advice would be to simply enjoy your life, work hard and be thoughtful and respectful of others. www.littlejoeny.com

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interwho

Irma Yasandikusuma is an innovative and exciting young jewellery designer – she talks to david a. carol about Bali and bling.

Irma, where did you grow up, and what’s your connection to Bali?

I was born in Geneva, but I’m Indonesian. Since a young age, I’ve been visiting every summer to see my extended family. I only have one sister, but a lot of Indonesian cousins. This year, some friends joined me, and it was the first time I got to experience Bali on my own terms.

How was Bali different with your new independence?

It was the first time I felt really connected to the local people. I ate at local restaurants with our Balinese driver and visited jewellery artisans. I discovered a part of the Bali that I had always wanted to discover. I went to the Ubud Village Jazz Festival and was happy to discover great Indonesian artists and musicians. There’s something about the energy, spirituality and creativity that really touches me and I can’t wait to experiment more there.

Any major surprises on your last visit?

I was surprised to discover that there is a lot of Latin culture in the bars and restaurants across the island as I love salsa! I danced from the age of four, but I had to stop because of an accident playing basketball. Yes, I’m small but I used to play basketball. Now, I’m going back to dancing as an inspiring hobby.

When did you know you were meant to be a designer?

I was always in a creative frame of mind; my mother was the same and still is. From an early age, I always loved to dress myself the way I wanted.

As I’ve always loved to draw, I decided to become a fashion designer, and studied at Studio Berçot in Paris. I always felt passionate about the discipline.

How would you describe your jewellery?

I always try to tell a story, and the jewellery is a symbol of that story. It starts with something that touches me. For example, my last collection, “Souvenir”, which is in Souq Bali right now, combines emotions felt in Paris and Bali during the summer of 2012.

What type of materials do you use?

With my jewellery, it’s less about gold and silver. I’m into fabrics, and at the moment, I use a lot of cords. It’s similar to creating clothing in that there’s a lot of sewing, but also painting. The cords become a canvas and I love to combine them with semi-precious stones.

Where do you source materials?

In Paris, I have a supplier. Some stones, I find in Jakarta at a special market.

Sometimes, you are dealing directly with the people who source them from the mountains of Indonesia. It’s really enriching because they can add

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more to the story, and more charm to the piece.

Who do you make jewellery for?

I make jewellery for myself. It’s a form of self-expression, and a way to feel completely free in my life. It’s touching when other people want to wear my work. It’s like sharing my love for creation. I don’t want to create to please. I have to be true. It’s not always easy but to me the most powerful quality that you can have as an artist is for your creativity to be truly valued and respected.

Do you take special commissions?

If someone asks me for a special piece, I first ask them for a picture. From that image, I then ask them their favourite colours and the type of seasonal feeling they’re after before proposing a composition. Usually, people trust me.

I like how you use Tumblr to share your inspirations.

When I think about a collection, I need to feel inspired. You can always tell if I’m being creative because my Tumblr is very active. Two years ago, I began to get into photography. I improved my skills and became passionate. I particularly appreciate when people understand the link between my inspirations and my jewellery.

Who are the models that appear in your collections?

Most of the models are my close friends. They’re all from different countries and ethnicities, and they really are a part of my creativity.

I love the photos by Daniella Beneditti. How did that collaboration come about?

She’s from Colombia, but I met her in Paris. I was introduced to her through a Parisian designer. We both wanted to meet each other and as I was touched by her photos I asked her to work together on my last campaign. I was deeply happy.

Are there any other designers that you’d really like to work with?

My dream would be to work with Dries Van Noten. I love the way he combines prints with unique shapes. He has a style identity which I feel close to. One day, you never know.

Where can people go to buy your jewellery?

There are still a few unique pieces at the Galerie Insolite in Geneva, and pieces from my “Souvenirs” collection are at Souq in Bali. I’m also working on an online store, I think it’s a nice way to have your own boutique. www.irmawy.com

irma's world.

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people CHRISTINA ISKANDAR TALKS TO DESIGNER HELEN MILNE ABOUT LIFE, LOVE AND HER AFRICAN HERITAGE. .

Photo: Blamo

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HELEN, describe your heritage and how the Milnes ended up in Africa.

My English grandmother’s family were some of the first white settlers in Zimbabwe in the late 1890s. She left Africa as a young woman, was married in the UK and with her new family returned to Zimbabwe years later – after WWII. My father, aged six, in tow. He never left what he considered his true home. My mother’s family is of Greek descent but my mother was born in Egypt and moved to Zimbabwe when she was around 10. She's never left her true home either.

What life lesson has growing up in Africa taught you?

I think the greatest gift I have been given this lifetime was growing up in Africa.

It showed me first the wonders of nature and that there is definitely a wildness that pulsates through all Africans' veins. It made me very resilient. Zimbabweans always “make a plan”. We always had shortages of what you would consider to be basic commodities. You could not get petrol for quite a few months; there was no rain in my home town for three years . . . It always worked out though.

Zimbabwe has had huge political turmoil and from having lived through that I realised at a very young age nothing is constant. You really have to simply enjoy the present moment.

What makes an African childhood so different?

I was one of the only white girls in my school. There weren’t enough classrooms so many times lessons were held under a tree. We lived in the city but my parents would spend every non-working minute in the bush. Our entertainment was nature. Life was one endless safari. Instead of the theatre we had game-watching in the evenings. The sun would start to set and it was like the red velvet curtains opening at the theatre. All the animals would come down to drink and without fail the show would commence. Growing up in Africa, I think, things were a lot more simple and basic and we had a lot more freedom to just be children.

Where's your place in Africa that depicts the poetry of the land?

I love Mosi-oa-Tunyaor – Victoria Falls. It is my favourite place on the planet. Its name means “the smoke that Thunders”.

What are you doing right now?

I am travelling through Europe for a couple of weeks, catching up with stockists, but most importantly with friends. Miss Milne opened in Jakarta in November so it is time to take a breath and get inspired by a road journey. I am putting together ideas for the Summer 2016 Miss Milne collection, also working on project plans and range ideas for our Bali shop which is getting a little update in July. Every so often I need to remove myself and find some answers in the adventures.

Who do you miss?

My Father. He passed away five years ago . . . I miss him dearly.

What designer would you take to dinner and what would you ask them?

There is a long list of designers I admire and would love to meet. I once met Elber Albazand and asked him if he still gets nervous putting out a new collection after having so many under his belt. He answered: “My dear, it is because I have put so many out that I get nervous. In life now you can buy everything but there are only two things you cannot buy, you have to develop them – one is muscles and the other is talent. They have to be worked on continuously.” I loved that.

Another is Dries van Noten. I went to an exhibition of his at le Musée Art Décoratif de Paris last May and his work always blows my mind. Van Noten has been entirely self-financed since the beginning of his career, which is always my biggest challenge. I'd certainly appreciate some tips on overcoming the financial hurdles that all independent startups incur.

What would make you throw your lover out?

My lover is a real gent; he would have to do something very out of his character to warrant that kind of action.

What defines love?

I think love is a passion in your life. Real love truthfully sees the flaws – and still really loves fully. Love is constantly changing and we have to continue to fall back into love, we should climb into love not fall into love!

What song do you play first thing Sunday morning.

At the moment I'm listening to an album called Trouble Will Find Me by The National. Love the name! On Sunday mornings I might play something like Francois Hardy, or the Apparat album Krieg und Frieden – perfect for Sunday morning. Yann Tiersen; Chilly Gonzales; Vivaldi . . . for a more rock and roll Sunday, All Along the Watch Tower by Jimi Hendrix.

Where will your ashes rest?

Long story short, I think my heart will always belong in Zimbabwe alongside my family, but I would not mind being in the ocean either. The sea has always felt like home to me.

Never forget what?

A bank card (preferably overflowing with funds . . . then a bottle of Tam Dao, the perfume I have worn every day for the past 12 years . . . and a smile. A smile gets you through all sorts of things. www.missmilne.co.uk

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interwho

rising star kukuh.

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Fashion designer Kukuh tALKS TO Laurie Osborne. photo: lukas Vrtilek

KUKUH, where did you grow up?

I was born in North Jakarta. When I was eight years old, we moved to the south. I’m the youngest of two sisters and one brother, and we grew up in an army family. My Dad was a soldier. I worked as a stylist in Jakarta for about 10 years before moving to Bali about seven years ago.

What first brought you to the Island of the Gods?

When I was 23, I went to Bali on a holiday with friends to party.

At first, I thought there’s no way I could live here. A week in Bali seemed pretty boring. Now, my outlook is the opposite: I could never go back to Jakarta. I can maybe handle four days, but that’s it.

Your clothing label’s called The Story Of. Who is it designed for?

The Story Of was conceived for girls that want to be themselves and don’t care about following trends. You can’t put them in a box, and they are free to do whatever they want.

It sounds like you might design for yourself?

Yes, myself for sure. And now, I’m also designing for little girls aged one to eight years old with The Story Of Kids. We’re going to New York to put on a fashion show soon so I’m pretty excited about that. We’ve already started selling in Australia, and have had a very good response so we thought let’s go to New York to show the range.

Congratulations. What was it like styling on the movie, Eat Pray Love?

I was doing product development for Minkpink when they asked me to style for the movie. I decided it would be a really great experience so I took that on too. In every scene, we had to prepare the clothes and costumes for the lead actors and extras. There was a huge wardrobe full of clothing. It was a crazy, huge project, and I’m very happy to have been a part of it.

Did you know much about the book before accepting the job?

I only read the book when I got the offer. I’d heard about it, but I’m not a wide reader. I only read things I know I’m going to like.

As a designer, how important were the years that you

spent as a stylist?

I learned so much from styling. I have a lot of friends that design too, and my husband is in the industry. It’s not that easy designing for other people. Sometimes, what I like just doesn’t sell.

What kind of role does your husband play in The Story Of? He helps me stay within the red lines. Sometimes, when you’re creative, you’re very excited about an idea. All you want to do is make it, but you need to be aware of price points. There are a lot of processes that need to be looked at so you have to adjust your design in many aspects. I learned a lot working with Minkpink, a brand that does very well in Australia. It’s not just about creating. You also have to consider whether or not something is going to sell. Is it going to be popular with your customers? It’s a long process, but I really enjoy my job. That makes the workload easier for me. If I get a little stressed, it doesn’t feel like real stress.

You launched The Story Of in 2010. What were the greatest obstacles that you faced, and how did you overcome them?

The biggest challenge was presenting my designs. It was a challenge to make every single design presentable. Every time I wanted to present, they would ask me a thousand questions.

When I’m designing, I’m happy, but it’s always hard for me to express myself verbally.

What is Kukuh Kulture?

That was my original brand name, but there was another company in Australia called Kuku so we had to brainstorm to come up with a new brand name.

How did you land on The Story Of? I love to read poems, and stories. I saw the opening words, “The Story Of” and I just loved the phrase.

And where did the inspiration for your owl logo come from?

I simply love owls. I’ve always loved them. www.thestoryof.com.au

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PEOPLE

Laurie Osborne raps with Australian fashion visionary, Alexia Blake, and gets the warp and weft on her creative process. photo: jason reposar.

How long have you been based here in Bali?

I’ve been here almost a decade. It’s gone so quickly. I really didn’t intend to stay for so long. My next-door neighbour and I started a fashion line together, selling in Australia and kept coming back to Bali for production. Eventually, I dropped out of college and fashion became footware, then swimwear, knitwear and now homeware.

How has the industry changed since you’ve been here?

It was a different world then. There were so many boutique designers. Australia was booming so you’d come up with a range to take back, and people would just buy. It didn’t really matter what you were selling.

It all changed dramatically when the global economic crisis hit. It forced us to restructure our businesses and adapt to the way the world was moving. These days, you need a lot of money behind you, and it’s very competitive. I walk into Topshop and Zara and I don’t know how they’re producing it for that price, let alone retailing. I think the way to go now is to have your own online shop so you don’t have the same overheads and you’re trading on your own terms.

Do you find that the Island of the Gods directly inspires your work?

Bali is not very different to where I’m originally from, which is Papua New Guinea. My grandparents were British ex-pat plantation owners that would eventually move to Australia. The society parties that I grew up with had that tropical linen feel to them, and today I use a lot of those colours in my collections of textiles and soft furnishings.

I want Meraki Home to give the customer a taste of another culture.

I’m inspired a lot by Morocco, India and Turkey. I went on a trip to Nepal last year, which was amazing. I kept losing it over the beautiful coloured textiles. They give me this indescribable feeling that makes me want to interpret the colours and patterns in my own designs. Ultimately, I’m not looking for sales numbers, I’m looking to create something that inspires someone else and changes the environment that they live in.

Can you take me through your creative process?

My dad’s an artist as well, and he would always say, “We don’t own our artwork, we channel it. It comes into us, and it’s our responsibility to get it out.”

When I’m working on a range, I pour everything into it and I get so much from it. Some people are like antennae. What goes in comes out as some kind of creative expression. I’m inspired by everything around me, and that’s been broadened by the access we have through the internet.

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Do you find that the internet is accelerating the fashion zeitgeist?

For sure . . . there are often six fashion ranges a year now. It’s hard to keep up. If you’re a designer, it’s just hectic all the time, but I think we like it like that. We’re all a little eccentric in a way.

Which materials are you most drawn to?

I use mostly 100 per cent linen, and cotton with a bit of texture to it. At the moment, I’m able to source all materials locally. In Bali, you can come up with an idea and have it in front of you by the end of the week, which is incredibly gratifying for a designer. You can literally transform a thought into something physical.

At the moment, I’m in production on a new collection called Marrakesh, inspired by the city’s markets and fabrics. There’s also another side to the collection called Belinda which is inspired by my aunt – a beautiful high-society woman. As a child, I remember her home in Ascot, Brisbane, was filled with linens, baby-blues and vases of fresh flowers. It was a very tropical place, with lots of black-andwhite stripes.

Are there any other projects out there on your horizon?

For me, Meraki Home is like a lovechild. It’s a great creative outlet, but I’ve also got a project I’m doing with 7shores, which is a French surf company. We’re re-launching the whole brand so I’m doing men’s, women’s, textiles, graphics, everything. I might be spreading myself a bit thin because I’ve also started a new bikini line called Islakiini.

Who do you spend your time with when you’re not being an antenna?

Most of my friends are in the fashion industry. We’ve all got kids together now, and we’re blessed to have a tight-knit community.

It’s one of the things that really keeps me in Bali. In Oz, you have “mateship”, but my friends here are like my family. It’s hard for any of us to leave. We call it “The Bali Curse”. I’ve tried three times in the last year, but I always end up back here. www.merakihome.squarespace.com

lexi - a good blake.

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people

Photo: Ryerson Anselmo mua: Renny Purwitasari Besseling location: la favela, bali

movin on up.

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Jehan, it’s been a while since we caught up, how is life treating you?

Hola, life is good, awesomely bitter-sweet and blessed! Things are great, I'm moving along sharpening my skills and entering a new path now, still struggling in some ways but I'll learn.

What projects are you working on currently and what’s lined up for the future?

I decided to take a role in LYD Bali Group about a year ago and still, being a mother for my two little rascals. I was a working-from-home-mom for two years until I accepted an offer from Alvaro and returned to the workforce!

Now I lead a diverse and multifaceted team of a creative, technical and administrative people. My focus is on marketing and production, but I am continually leveraging my abilities. Still following my passion.

Are you still involved in Bali Tonight?

No, I am not, but still supporting as you know how it began and grew. Over the years, I have had opportunities to learn so many things with Cedric, the Founder of Bali Tonight. It's our blood, sweat and tears. My only wish is to see him and the team keep going and make even greater achievements.

How difficult is working for a nightlife company and being a mother at the same time?

Well, back home at 4am then drive them to school at 7.30am, what do you think? Ha ha ha. I have to admit it that it's not easy to balance work, family and me-time, especially as my kids have just reached school age. But when things changed for me I felt that I had to prove to myself that I had it all together and wouldn’t miss a beat. Although the reality of being able to stay up late evenings in heels, no matter if it's a weekend or not, is all about my passion.

The LYD Group seems to have grown quickly since it first arrived here in 2010. What are the core values that make the group a whole?

I'd say the first is that word again – passion; it leads to continuous improvement in all that we do. We know our success depends upon the initiative we take individually and our ability to work in a team. Therefore, from La Plancha, La Favela, Attika, La Laguna, La Brisa, and the other brands in the same boat, we know where we are going. What we see before everything is customer satisfaction; offering high-quality product and service . . . that's our A-list.

Tell us about LYD Organic and LYD Bakery, the newest members of the family?

LYD Organic and LYD Bakery began with a commitment to add specific value-added products to our daily supply across all brands. As our company has moved more into sustainability, it has centralised its sources for ingredients, with all of our brands for instance using home-grown

vegetables and spices from our farm in Bedugul. To reinforce our qualityoriented management, we then established LYD Bakery as a central production unit in 2018 with Pastry Chef Maxime. Now, we supply our tailormade bread and bakery products to all LYD Bali Group brands and other businesses in Bali; this includes hotels, restaurants, and other hospitality institutions.

La Favela, La Plancha, La Brisa … they have all been enormously popular right from the start. What’s the secret?

I believe it's because each brand has its own personality, from the prime location, exterior-interior, products and service, the whole experience! I'd say each brand is one-of-a-kind, especially in Bali. La Plancha with its colourful umbrella and legendary sunset; La Favela with its original concept and vintage design, intimate yet wild in its own way with the Graffiti and stencil art-adorned walls from around the globe, I call it my playground! Then Attika, a true prohibition-style cocktail den. La Laguna, a fairyland. And La Brisa . . . unbeatable view!

What motivates you to get out of bed in the morning?

Oooh, darling, as always, deadline! Ha ha ha . . .

What do you think is missing in Bali’s nightlife scene right now?

In my opinion, Bali's nightlife is under threat. Day parties are the new trend.

It's no longer divided into beach bar or traditional nightclub, there's a diverse and growing number of options now. Many are good, and the competition is stiff. What I'm missing thought is an authentic experience. Everybody seems to do almost the same thing with the same ingredients but just a different place. What works is a consistency of idealism, which means no-one can ever copy you.

What’s next for the LYD Group?

We are preparing for a new brand, launching soon, can’t tell you now or it won't be a surprise!

La Laguna?

Yes! It's gonna be wicked, I promise!

And when can we have lunch?

Let's have lunch in La Brisa on Sunday, it's kinda my ritual, and I know you'll love it!

Jehan, many thanks for your time.

My pleasure. www.lydbaligroup.com @didanadira

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SUPer NATURAL

eponymous fashion designer natasha gan talks to danziel carre about beauty, creation and empowerment. photo spencer hansen.

Natasha, when did you first get bitten by the fashion bug and how did the journey carry onwards?

My mother was a dressmaker, so I was always playing around in her workroom from a very young age. I would spend the weekends rummaging around through all the fabrics and trims, dreaming up my own creations.

I began taking it more seriously around the age of 13, enrolling in the local TAFE programme to study pattern-making on weekends, and by 16 was selected to study fashion design at East Sydney Technical College. It was during that time I was really able to formalise my skills and gain the confidence to get into the business.

You lived in London for a while . . . what was that experience like, working in such a high-profile centre of the fashion universe?

It was unbelievable. Straight out of design college at 21, I moved to London.

In my second interview there, I landed a job designing for two of the most well-regarded, high fashion retailers, Topshop and Hennes. It was extremely hectic but exciting, and helped me develop an in-depth knowledge of the industry. The immersion in that kind of environment really empowered me to launch my own label.

What separates your line from others?

I want to make a strong statement through my work. There are so many brands out there doing the same things, but I really try to keep ahead with an innovation of fabrics and texture, colourful prints. Natasha Gan embodies a contradiction of strong and tough silhouettes with a balance of soft delicate silhouettes . . . with quality finishes and a dedication to detail.

What type of woman are you designing clothes for?

All my designs are catered to the young professional who is not afraid to express herself. The focus has always been on creating a progressive, strong, and sexy collection – so that is the type of women whom I strive to serve.

She has to be confident and loves to have fun.

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Where do you find your inspiration (inside and outside of the fashion world)?

Everything inspires me. I do a lot of travelling for work and get to see so many cultures that I draw a lot of inspiration from. Living in Bali, I have been really drawn to and influenced by the wide selection of lush colours and exotic prints, which really shows in the designs of my past few collections.

What do you most love and hate about the fashion business?

What I hate the most? Definitely the production side. Sometimes it can be a real headache dealing with vendors to get things done on time and done in the right way. But as for what I absolutely love about the business, the creating part. It’s amazing to see my ideas come to life, from a concept in my head to sketches on paper to something that women love to wear because it makes them feel beautiful. That creative process is what fuels me.

What do you do for fun when not working?

I like to go away a lot with my family, and love to catch up with friends. I also do a lot of drawings to keep the creative juices flowing.

Where in the world has fashion taken you? Where has been your favourite, and why?

Of course London . . . Paris, Spain, Los Angeles. Though Postiano in Italy was my favourite destination. The food was amazing, the people just absolutely wonderful, and the exotic location completely breathtaking.

If you weren't doing fashion design, what do you think you'd be doing? Why? I’m really not sure. Fashion has been my only interest ever, and as I love it so much I couldn't imagine not designing. Love what you do, and do what you love . . . why bother with anything else? www.natashagan.com.au

“everything inspires me”.

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interview through the looking glass.

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salvador bali meets Suki, sunglass queen and energetic entrepreneur. photo: lukas VRTilek.

Let's start talking.

My name is Suki, I’m from Surabaya and I’m 27 years old.

What was your background?

My mom died when I was born and dad hit the road, never to be seen again, gone, out the door and I never met him. I was raised by my grandma in a small village outside Surabaya. I left the village at the age of nine when grandpa died and grandma couldn’t afford me, and moved back to Surabaya to my auntie – the wicked witch of the east . . . she actually turned me on to drugs when I was 12. During junior high school I ran away, that’s when the adventure started. I went on to study at tourism school and worked in that industry for four years.

Were you into tourism in Bali when you came here?

Yes, two-and-a-half years ago I came to live here and before that I came quite frequently in and out traveling from all over the world with my travel agency.

Suki, sounds Japanese?

It is, it’s really my nickname and I discovered that in Japanese it means “love”, great huh? I’m very happy about that.

Now you’re in business with your own unique style of wooden sunglasses . . .

I started to think I needed to do something independent – shoes, clothing, then sunglasses appealed to me, and the idea of wooden frames popped into my head. I talked to lots of friends and the results were always the same – you’re dreaming, you’re not going to do this, it’s too big for you, you have no idea about what you’re talking about . . . on and on. I did some research and decided I wanted to do this regardless. I didn’t tell anyone and just went ahead and did it. I don’t need negativity.

Did you know anything about wood or glass?

At the beginning I experimented with coconut wood, then rosewood, on and on . . . damn, I was ready to give up, then I realised I had put so much time and energy into this project. I spoke to other people with experience (in the field) and was supported. You can do anything if supported with positive energy, and so it happened. I created what I felt and saw and now I have six designs with four different special kinds of woods.

Where was your first outlet here?

Deus (Ex Machina), then Ku De Ta, the W Hotel and some selected outlets, and now going into New Zealand. I’ll be looking at a wider international market in the future. I’d also like to have my own shop some day.

We have the wood, what about the glass?

We’re using polarized lenses.

Your philosophy on life?

Dream big, it’s not going to hurt you, it’s free, whatever you want . . . I can’t imagine what you want, but the universe will give it to you.

I love this line and so appropriate for you – “I was born free but now I’m very expensive“.

Yes, yes . . . being born in a poor family is not our parents fault, but when we die in the end, it’s our fault if we do not succeed.

What do you have to say to your sunglass fans?

What I want is for them to feel sexy and free, united with love and colours. www.suki.co.id

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interview Susan Hu talks to Holy Indradjaja, country manager for PT Aqueo, the exclusive distributors for Havaianas and Seafolly in Indonesia. photo: spencer hansen.

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Can you tell us a bit about your background?

I’m originally from Jakarta, but when I was 16 I moved to the U.S. and lived in L.A. for 10 years. I first came to Bali in 2007 as I was in need of a new start, so I’ve been here for the past eight years working in retail and fashion. Bali has grown on me.

Holy is a fantastic name. Is there a story behind it?

I was born on a holy day within a holy month in the Buddhist religion, so my father thought it was a fitting name.

Do you remember your first pair of Havaianas . . . colour? style?

Hmm, my first pair was a slim basic black. I wore these in the transition from my previous job where I was a bit more corporate. Now I experiment more with colour and enjoy wearing some of the fun brighter pairs and prints.

How did you get involved with Havaianas?

I had always followed the brand since it really started taking off in Indonesia a few years back, and I was working for a fashion retailer in Bali when I, by chance, ran into the general manager who was looking for someone in the Bali office.

That meeting turned into a job opportunity so I was very lucky as it was the perfect chance to take it on at a time of huge growth in 2011.

A day in the life of Holy Indradjaja?

I lead a fairly busy life. Being a single mom of a nine-year-old boy, my day consists of getting up and dragging him out of bed and off to school. Then it’s into the office for the day, visits to our stores, then back home for homework and dinner before I can escape to the gym for some “me time” after 8pm.

It’s always a juggle between my work and personal life.

What is your philosophy on work and life in general?

Something my father once said to me was: “Sometimes our lives have to be completely shaken up, changed and rearranged to relocate us to the place we’re meant to be”.

The Havaianas brand is over 50 years old and still going strong. In your opinion, what’s the secret to the success?

The Havaianas brand stays true to its image globally. The head office in Brazil is very hands-on with the style guidelines and the image overall through their distribution network, as well as the consistency of the product, so I believe this has helped. They are a simple product, but with quality rubber and a range of colours and prints to reach a wide audience.

And this has turned the sandals into a must-have fashion icon that stays in people’s minds. We are also very lucky to have such loyal, passionate followers of the brand.

Currently, fans of Havaianas can pick up sweet sandals in select stores in Jakarta and Bali. Do you have plans to expand into other parts of Indonesia?

Yes, we are starting to expand the business in Medan and have just opened a small Havaianas store there, and shortly we will be in Surabaya as well. We currently have seven of our Universo retail outlets in Bali, and three in Jakarta, with plans to increase our locations in Jakarta as well in 2014.

Are there any hot new trends in the world of sandals we should know about?

The biggest trend we have seen is customisation – personalising your pairs and having a unique style that is different from anyone else. This is very popular. We now offer our “Make Your Own Havaianas” at more stores in response to this trend. Globally we are also seeing a lot of collaborations with well-known fashion designers and more stylish offerings in the world of sandals. They are really moving from a household item to a hot fashion item – with additional crystals, jewels and adornments to create a more premium sandal. We also recently collaborated with Swarovski in Jakarta and have had a huge response to sandals with “bling”, so this trend is growing too.

Can you describe your current favourite pair of Havaianas?

My favourite pair is Slim Season Grey – it’s a pretty floral print on a staple silver metallic pair . . . good for all types of occasions.

Any fashion advice or tips from the country manager of a fashion icon?

Simplicity is my advice. Keep it simple and find your own point of difference. Add a splash of colour here or there or a bit of unique style, but don’t overdo it. That’s my theory.

havaianas' holy.

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people up-and-coming filmster kezia alexandra brings a diverse background to play on projects that challenge established values. she spoke to tony stanton. photo: oscar munar.

screen time for kezia.

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Kezia, can you tell us a bit about how and where you grew up?

I was born in Jakarta. I don’t really remember much actually. I remember I spent a lot of time with my grandparents and my (boy) cousins when I was small.

My Dutch grandmother used to read me European tales that were pretty dark for a kid at that time. She also loved to tell the story with different noises that brought the story to life. As if the narration wasn't even needed, just noises and the character’s dialogue. Then there was the boys' world that involved loads of music, video games and sports. They always treated me as part of their pack so basically I was a boy for them. Later I moved to London and San Francisco for school.

What did you learn from your parents, do you think?

No matter how far I’ve travelled, I always remember my roots, culture and faith. My family has a mixed heritage (my parents are from Sumatra and Sulawesi), and to witness how each of them stays strong to their traditions and still shares is mesmerizing to me. This is what I always come back to. I kind of lost it after being exposed to so many different cultures when traveling to different countries. Yet my parents hold on to their beliefs, which were once tribal and have somehow been adjusted to something more urban.

And what did you decide to do that was different from them?

I think it's important to remember your roots and culture, but I also think as generations evolve there should be more room for compromise, and it shouldn't always be limited to one's faith or beliefs. So there's that.

When did you first get into film work?

During my high school I remember my father said to me: “Aren’t you curious about how a movie is lit and narrated?" Then he gave me a copy of Pink Floyd: The Wall to watch and I went from that into Samsara, then drastically to Gaspar Noè, Ingmar Bergman, Jean-Pierre Jeunet, Tim Burton – I was spellbound by the world of motion pictures. I fell in love with the idea that each world was created by a compilation of creative minds, each with their own specialty, finally producing one piece of art that had the ability to hypnotize people. But it wasn't until university that I started actually working with film.

Do you think you’ve been shaped more by your early life in Jakarta or by your time in America?

I think they’re mutually interdependent. One is as

important as the other. It's as if you’re born as clay. In my early life, I made my first sculpture and then it broke down and scattered. So I reshaped myself using the same clay, just in a different shape. Lately I think it has broken down again, and is ready to be reshaped once more.

What films have you worked on, and with whom?

I worked on a few short films as gaffer that were nominated in various film festivals in San Francisco and London. I've also directed a few music videos and experimental projects that were nominated in festivals in the UK and the States, and I just had my first music video screened in Australia. I really enjoy working on projects with an intimate crew that are just pure creativity without having to worry about the market. My first short film gig in Indonesia was actually shot in Bali and I worked with an amazing crew under the lighting department. It was an honour to work with one of the best Indonesian DPs (Director of Photography) Gunnar Nimpuno, an amazing director and producer who were part of Dunkirk crew as assistant directors.

As for bigger films, my first feature film as a gaffer was for the movie Preman Pensiun with DP Gunung Nusa Pelita. It was my first shoot in Indonesia, two weeks after I arrived back from America. Before that, I was working in a film lighting rental house company that hooked me up to work on Sorry To Bother You (DP – Doug Emmet and Director Boots Riley), Blindspotting (DP – Robby Baumgartner and Director Carlos Estrada), Antman2 (DP – Dante Spinotti and Director Peyton Reed), Venom (DP – Matthew Libatique and Director Ruben Fleischer), Bumblebee: The Movie (Transformers 6), 13 Reasons Why, The OA, and Billions.

What’s your approach to your work, and what are you generally trying to express?

There are different things expressed in different projects, yet most of the projects convey the absence of a border between reality and illusion, and beauty within an uncomfortable space, generally revealed in a creepy, gothic style. Sometimes it's expressed through the story, lighting, sound or simply composition. I use a lot of sacred geometry in my artwork (still or motion), it's like hidden treasure if you notice it. At times I just want the audience to feel a specific emotion or feeling, with no chance to escape from it.

What do you look for in an actor?

A transformation into a being that delivers everyday

emotions and at the same time delivers unusual feelings through facial expressions and body language. This speaks louder than words.

Do you think that experimental films can ever really adapt to the mainstream?

Perhaps. If the term mainstream refers to it being accepted, then yes. But if it refers to it being popular then I’m not so sure. Maybe the mainstream can adapt to experimental film? It’s always a small circle. A place where filmmakers can purely express themselves without needing to worry about what others think. At the same time experimental films also offer a sanctuary where filmmakers simply experiment with what they want audiences to feel. Bringing their emotions to a realization. Most of the time it is not comfortable or pleasant. Art is not always about beauty. Experimental films are like a laboratory for us.

How involved are you in scripting an idea, and how does that process work for you in bringing an idea to fruition?

A lot I would say. The first thing that comes to my mind is often a picture, then I asked why that picture? That’s when the concept comes, then there’s research that develops the first picture into a different one. It just goes on and on. Now, what palette am I going to paint with?

How much shadow? How’s the sound going to be?

What materials or objects can I use to substitute words?

How can I put those into words? There are times when the picture comes from the prose, but it doesn’t mean I would use that prose as dialogue. I like to narrate with as few words as possible, letting the image and sound design do the talking.

What are you working on now, and what’s next for Kezia?

A couple of different things. I just came back from Borneo working on a documentary about reforestation and permaculture. I will try to collaborate with other artists to continue this documentary while simultaneously working on another short with a friend.

Hopefully I can also join film festivals locally as well as internationally. Apart from motion pictures, I’m also working on my photography and mixed media that I hope will show at next year’s art events in Yogyakarta.

Kezia, thanks for your time. www.keziaalexandra.com

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PROFILE words: danziel carre. photos: vicky tanzil.

from jakarta to new

york, l.a., and then to bali, 24-year-old

audrey akman is an

up-and-comer in the

fashion world.

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Audrey, when and how did you first get into fashion?

I'd wanted to go to fashion school since I was maybe four or five because I was so inspired by Disney movies . . . especially Cinderella. I remember asking my mom: "When I grow up, I want my job to be making beautiful gowns like that – what kind of profession is that called?"

She said: "Fashion design." So ever since I have been obsessed with gowns and wedding dresses, evening gowns and stuff like that. I think they are the most beautiful things I've ever seen.

What were you up to in the States?

I worked for a bridal and eveningwear company in New York starting from sophomore year at fashion design school. After graduation, I went to L.A. and worked as a costume designer at a cabaret lounge, in a jewellery shop, and for a young start-up womenswear company. I thought it was a great challenge to see if I could handle a small company of my own – working under the owner, following her every step and learning as much as I could.

Another good offer came up, but after contemplating for a long time I decided to start my own business in Jakarta because there are more opportunities there.

What's the coolest project you worked on in L.A.?

The choreographer from the lounge was working on a project with Lady Gaga's choreographer for Nikki Minaj's Grammy Awards 2012. They initially wanted Versace to do all of Nikki's costumes, but because of budget issues they decided to give me the project instead – because I'd done costumes before. Versace ended up designing her red carpet robe, while I designed the costumes for everyone in her performance on stage. I also did Nikki and her dancers’ costumes for the NBA half-time show.

How did you start your jewellery business?

Arriving back in Jakarta, I wanted to do bridal-wear, but it’s really hard to find pattern makers in Indonesia. During a Christmas vacation on Bali I saw an opportunity to make jewellery because the level of craftsmanship here is amazing – it was an easy transition for me because I was doing intricate headpieces when I made my thesis collection. The company started about six months ago, but we're not selling yet – maybe January. I want to

be really well prepared. I know people will appreciate something that is done whole-heartedly.

Any other business ventures on the go?

I'm in the process of making a "discovery lounge" – it's a new concept that I am developing. It's a place that emphasises human connection, with a high sense of art and appreciation of life – a place where people can go and meet others, try new food and drinks, view different art installations and jewellery displays. I want to create a place that moves with time.

So do you aim to be the next Gucci, Prada, etcetera?

I want to be like Coco Chanel when she began – when the range was still designed by her. She made a statement through her art and fashion – that women should wear something comfortable, chic and beautiful, and not be constricted by rules and corsets. She defined her target market – women who were breaking out of the shell in those days. The items created during that period are artifacts now because the people wearing them had a statement to make. When that statement is represented in fashion, you can never get bored with it.

Growing up, did you do other kinds of art as well?

Definitely. I love to paint. I usually like to draw in pencil and pastel. I also paint with acrylic. I am planning to refine my oil painting in the future, maybe when I'm old and not so productive. I played flute and piano a long time ago but my passion was for art and philosophy.

What else do you do for fun?

I like to play tennis with my family, watch movies, go out with my friends, blow off some steam with Muay Thai . . . when the weather is nice I practice my surfing. I love photography, reading books, shooting, outdoor activities, travelling! I love travelling.

Muay Thai and shooting . . . no one should mess with you then?

I want to know how to fight, in case I have to. I'm not going down easy.

Word.

Touch of the Hepburns.

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“MY DOLLS TURN EVIL ENERGY INTO LOVE” FASHION DESIGNER Ludovica Virga CREATED MUA MUA DOLLS... AND THE PRESS WENT CRAZY. words: LORNA JANE SMITH PHOTO: ANTHONY DODDS

QUEEN MUA MUA. LAGERFELD'S A FAN.

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Every fairytale lingers over its characters: a king, a queen, a fairy godmother; and the plot always includes dilemmas doused in evil and resolved by love.

This story is the Mua Mua fairytale – the characters are crocheted dolls, and the storyline has been constructed by an Italian bella-donna, Ludovica Virga.

Ludo is primarily based in Milan, Italy, but, in reality, has no fixed address while in pursuit of her crocheted dolce vita. She stumbled into the art of designing dolls when her intent was, in fact, to design women's fashion.

The love child of a distinguished Italian couple, Ludo's life had been predetermined. The plan was to ship her to the USA to complete a Masters degree in business, return her to Italy where she would become a big swinger in a nice, safe bank, get married, and master the craft of making pasta.

That was never going to happen.

Instead, in defiance, Ludo travelled randomly from Hawaii to New York, had a great time, and obsessed about a future in design. She did not attend her university but, to her credit, mastered the English language.

When her travels finished in New York she rang her papa in Italy and confessed her antics. Papa Virga was initially confused, probably pissed off, but ultimately compromising. The compromise was an economy ticket to Bangladesh.

The plan was for Ludo to stay with a family friend who owned a clothing factory in downtown Dhaka and learn the business of fashion.

An Italian princess obsessed by haute couture was thrown headfirst into a mass-manufacturing inferno.

"So I get to Bangladesh, 24 years old, and I had never been in an Asian country. I had just lived a year in America. I was super fat because that's what America does to you,” Ludo says.

“I was clueless, an Italian girl, not worldly and I am in this hectic hell - hole . . . In the end it was actually all very funny I think that even my hosts thought I shouldn't have been there. I'm glad it happened – it's where I started. I made my first collection in Bangladesh and it was really vulgar micro-mini clothes."

"At that moment Karl Lagerfeld launched the Mua Mua's and earned his position as king of the fairytale," Ludo says.

Coco Chanel is queen of the Mua Mua's, simply because she is Ludo's anointed ultimate heroine. The Mua Mua kingdom consists of a diverse range of celebrities. There's Lady Ga Ga, Madonna, Frida Kahlo, Beyonce, Serge Gainsbourg , Dita Von Teese, and even the notorious Mao Tse Tung. The Mua Mua club is forever evolving.

Apparently having a Mua Mua mini-me is a coveted chalice, sought, and enjoyed, by many celebrities and their devout fans. There is huge Mua Mua demand, and in the past year or so Harvey Nichols, Barneys NY, and many other elite retailers worldwide have become stockists.

I wonder whether the Mua Mua dolls are more Italian by nature or Balinese?

Ludo says that the positive energy behind the dolls is primarily due to the Mua Mua big bang theory – that moment when a young Balinese woman harassed Ludo into designing crazy raggedy dolls.

That persistent former-beach-seller now controls the whole Mua Mua industry. Her family and village have become economically stable and they employ many villages to maintain the Mua Mua legacy. The Mua Mua's have manifested into a fair trade victory.

There is also an abundance of Italian drama and egocentrisms oozing from the Mua Mua characters. The crux of the drama is that the Mua Mua characters are always uglier than humans. This is important to Ludo's theory – that bad luck vibes (invisible and allegedly always spinning around us) are attracted to the ugliest party.

This explains why Mua Mua dolls are littered with stitches and scars.

"The scars are where bad luck was caught and digested by the Mua Mua on your behalf. The Mua Mua then transforms that evil energy into love," Ludo says.

I ask whether the Mua Mua is heart or soul?

Ludo sighs, exasperated at my inadequacy in not comprehending the Mua Mua myth. She painstakingly explains that the Mua Mua is all heart and has no brain.

During this period of creating Euro-trash frocks Ludo took a break and came to Indonesia for the first time. It was after the second bombing when the world had temporarily deserted Bali.

"The Mua Mua are not paid to think, they are for the here and now. They must be cherished because if they need to, they will die to protect you.

The Mua Mua give themselves to you completely."

"Every day while lying on the beach I would meet this woman who persistently tried to sell me crocheted bikinis," she says.

Ludo describes her role in the Mua Mua industries as a monkey riding on a monocycle, spinning plates, and trying to maintain balance.

Ludo recognised that this woman was struggling with the economic ramifications of terrorism. So Ludo drew monsters on a scrap of paper and asked her to bring them to life.

"I make so many mistakes every day," she says.

Years later Ludo was invited to a Chanel fashion show. She made a crocheted caricature of Karl Lagerfeld who would be attending. It took a bottle of champagne before Ludo had the gumption to march up to Lagerfeld and shove a crocheted look-a-like into his arms.

He loved it and the press went crazy.

I think this zany Italian's genius radiates in acting on her impromptu array of mistakes. Unknowingly she is the fairy godmother of a land of iconic monsters all endeavouring to unite us mere mortals in looking at life with more tongue in cheek.

Ludovica Virga: complicated Italian, should-be-princess, has created a popular myth endearing to anyone who believes in crocheted fairytale.

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interwho

Camilla Chevillot has gone from playground to top table, writes Lorna Jane Smith.

camilla

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Sardine has been used as the name of a children's game, where one person hides and each successive person who finds the hidden one packs into the same space until there is only one left out, who becomes the next one to hide.

Twenty years ago a little blonde Canadian girl living in the Caribbean learned to play sardine and hid under the dining tables of her father's restaurant.

That little girl is now a 25-year-old blonde bombshell, Camilla Chevillot. Camilla no longer hides under the tables of her father's restaurant – instead she now manages them. The restaurant is no longer located in the Caribbean . . . it's now in Bali. The childish irony is that the restaurant is called Sardine and the game sardine has taken on a different format.

Camilla has a genetic disposition for working in hospitality. There is a recorded five generations of cooks and restaurateurs in her family. Her French father, Pascal, moved to Bali and opened Sardine four years ago. Her brother is a leading chef in Montreal, and prior to her current role as Sardine's trainee top gun she bummed around the world financing herself by shaking cocktails, performing kitchen duties and flipping grilled stuff.

On a spontaneous visit to Bali two years ago Camilla saw Sardine for the first time and was blown away. At the time she was looking for a challenge and her father suggested that Camilla move to Bali to learn what running a boutique restaurant entails.

One could toy with the idea that Camilla's transition to restaurateur intern dabbles in the philosophy of keeping it cool with daddy dearest?

"In all honesty I never had any desire to live in Bali but when I saw Sardine, its physical presence alone won me over," she says.

That's easily understood. Sardine's entrance is understated. When you finally find it and park on the edge of the abyss, a.k.a. a busy Jalan Petitenget, expectations are not high. Once entering, you can't help but gasp at the glory of this Tardis of visual enchantment.

Acres of mythical rice fields confront you. Umbrellas caress the breeze. Ducks and geese grace the grounds

with their playful disposition. The incredibly good-looking Balinese staff weave around the tables like butterflies mocking lotuses. Everything is in synch with Balinese culinary perfection.

Sardine specialises in seafood.

"The cuisine is slightly Asian, slightly Mediterranean, slightly Balinese but playfully interpreted and enhanced with a modern touch," Camilla says.

She does attempt to gently push her ideas into Sardine's seafood repertoire.

"I went to Myanmar and ate a banana blossom salad," she says.

It tasted as great as it sounded and Camilla felt this dish would be well placed in Sardine's cuisine del solait.

"I do try to have my opinion but I don't think they are listening to me yet," she says after the banana blossom salad was vetoed . . . "I guess I just have to learn to speak louder."

The people who are listening to her are the customers. Six days a week, 11 hours a day, this young woman forsakes her right to be young and crazy for her professional passion.

"I want to focus on my work. The rest of life happens when it happens."

Camilla is adamant that besides the food, a consistent presence is the key to a successful restaurant. She is an important identity at Sardine as she plays hostess, and orchestrates a great culinary experience for the restaurant’s patrons.

"I live in the moment and it's always a surprise what you can do and where you can end up."

So, was Sardine so-called because of a child's game that Camilla once played; was it because that's the dish of the day; or is it a clan’s metaphoric association to marine creatures' lifestyles?

Camilla says Sardine was named as such because it is simply a universal word. The word and the meaning is the same in English, French or Indonesian.

"It's just a word, but an important one to me."

". . . I never had a desire to live in bali but when i saw Sardine . . ." pic by lucky 8.

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interview

ines “I was at a party one night and I met this guy who really liked my shoes,” says Ines Katamso, a designer finding her way, one step at a time.

Words: stephanie mee. styling: christina.

Photo: anthony dodds.

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“If somebody starts to copy you, it means your product is good. So, don't be mad about it – be proud about what you’ve made.”

Ines Katamso should know. Just six months ago she launched her eclectic, vintage-inspired footwear and accessories line, Curly, and already she has seen a slew of copycats in Jakarta pumping out cheaper versions of her shoes – even down to the unique colour combinations and cut-out patterns. Yet, she’s not too bothered, as she knows hers are the real deal.

“When I moved to Bali about a year ago, I couldn’t find low-cost, cool and elegant shoes, so I decided to make my own,” she says.

“I took a classic English Oxford and played around with the design, mixing the leather and the colours and cutting out sections so they were half open and half closed. People liked the shoes, so I thought why not go with it?”

The Curly brand was born out of a chance meeting.

“I was at a party one night and I met this guy who really liked my shoes,” she says.

“He offered to invest in my brand, but I didn’t really believe him at first. The next day he called and asked me if I had already found a craftsmen, and I was like, ‘wow. Okay then’.”

Delve into Ines’ family background and it should come as no surprise that the 22-year-old has followed a creative path in life. Her father was a musician and a batik artist who loved to draw. Her mother and step-brother are both tattoo artists, she has another step-brother who is a graphic designer . . . and her step-sister models in Paris.

“When people ask me when it was that I started drawing and designing, I really don’t know what to say. I was surrounded by art when I was growing up, so it’s natural for me. And of course, my family supports me. My mom is my biggest fan,” Ines says.

At the age of 22, Ines graduated from an art and design school in Marseilles with a specialisation in fashion design. She was set to take the design world by storm, but she found it difficult to find job opportunities in France and was looking for new inspiration.

“After my studies, I wanted to go back to my Indonesian roots,” she says.

“The first place that came to mind for art and design was Bali. Jakarta was an option, but I don’t like cities. Cities are great

for some people, but I like rice fields. Also, there are a lot of talented people here. It’s crazy because it’s so small, but that’s what interested me.”

Upon arriving in Bali, Ines landed a job as a designer with a Bali-based fashion label and devoted her free time to creating her distinctive black ink drawings that feature intricate line work and bold patterns.

“I don’t think of myself as an artist,” she says.

“I’m more like an illustrator. And I can’t really say what my style is. It’s always changing, always moving and organic. Every time I create something, I try to make it more personal. I might change the medium and try this or try that, but there’s always a bit of me in it. That’s just my style.”

When she’s not exhibiting her drawings, showcasing her shoes in fashion shows or designing new bags and accessories, Ines is learning the ins and outs of the business side of the fashion industry.

“I’m trying to be more professional now,” she says.

“At first, I would just show up at shops and ask them if they wanted my product, but I would have to direct them to my Facebook page. Imagine doing that in Paris. I think the customers and the shops here in Bali are really cool. They know that I’m a young designer so they understand.”

With her catalogue just finished, Ines will soon be taking her handmade shoes and bags on the road to Jakarta.

“I’m not sure about the market in Jakarta, as I’ve never been there, but I think the fashion design is getting better and better. People have really good taste there, and I’m really proud about that,” she says.

For most people, balancing a full-time job with a budding fashion brand and forging a path in the world of art exhibition would be too much to handle, but Ines pulls it off with aplomb.

“I’m an active girl, so I love it,” she says.

“Plus, the illustrations and designs are interconnected.

Curly helps me become more business oriented and organised, and the art makes me free. One helps me to focus and the other refreshes my mind, so they’re in balance.”

Any last words of advice for the up-and-coming designer?

“It’s important to make your work personal. For sure you can get inspiration from other people, but make it your own. That way you won’t get bored with it. In the end, you have to love your product first.”

"I don’t think of myself as an artist."

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interview photography by Diva Abrahamian.

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bali baby yasmin suteja sings, shoots and styles.

Name, rank and serial number please. . .

Yasmin Suteja. Rookie. 10121991.

Where are you from?

Bali was my first home. My dad is from Mengwitani.

My mum is Greek/Australian. I moved to Sydney when I was eight years old, and have been living there ever since.

We often see you in Bali. Sometimes on the stage, sometimes behind a camera. . .

I’ve been making short one-month trips back to Bali since I moved to Sydney. These trips have become opportunities for me to develop creatively. Bali is fast becoming a melting pot of creative talent. Singing was always something I did in my spare time, but I never took it seriously. Bali helped revive my love of performance. I was given the opportunity to sing at the Yak Awards in 2011 and since then, I’ve been jamming with some talented musicians on the island, and I’ve started collaborating on some original tracks.

My best performances are improvised, feeding off the energy of other musicians and the audience. The experience of live music in Bali is highly communal.

People actually dance and respond viscerally to music here, and I love that. I developed a strong interest in filmmaking towards the end of high school, following the career trajectory of one very talented New Zealand filmmaker, Levi Beamish. I then went on to study filmmaking and media production at the University of Technology in Sydney. In late 2011 I shot a documentary in Bali called, Dinner for Expats, which is currently in post-production. I’m fortunate to have a number of amazing mentors here in Bali, who also happen to be really good friends. They’ve given me the opportunity to collaborate, experiment and develop, both personally and creatively.

Kids today . . . you're so multi-tasking!

I’m the product of what you would call the ‘Slashie Generation’. Modern technology, (and the everexpanding database of knowledge, fun and frivolity that is the Internet) has meant that the ‘kids’ of today can do pretty much anything. The digital revolution has generated a democratisation of knowledge.

DSLRs and non-linear video editing systems like Final

Cut Pro have made filmmaking more accessible than ever before, resulting to in an explosion of amateur content. In addition to the sheer fortune that we were born on the cusp of a digital revolution, my generation has been raised by parents who told us to ‘do what you love’, so we’ve followed through with this mantra and pursued financially unstable careers in the arts…

Where do you see your focus, creatively?

My focus is in media production, especially for online platforms. I’ve always wanted to work for myself, and I’d like to one day become the creative director of my own media production company. In my second year of university, I started a creative collective called [Dais Productions], which basically consisted of my best friend and I bringing our ideas to life. We launched a monthly online interview series, The >> Series, which profiled young creative minds between Sydney and Bali. This is something I want to continue to build on.

Do you think you'll ever work in a bank?

Unlikely. I’ve never been interested in the corporate life, and I’m terrible with numbers.

How about behind a bar?

Working behind a bar could be a lot of fun, especially in Bali. It would be interesting to see people ‘from the other side’.

What gets you going in the morning?

Vegemite and cheese on toast.

When are you happiest?

When I find myself connecting with someone on a new level. Where, for at least a brief moment, we are completely in tune with each other. In that instant, there’s a tangible exchange of energy. It’s incredibly powerful.

What makes you sad?

Loss. Losing someone is one of the hardest things you’ll ever have to experience.

If you could choose one thing to change about this world it would be. . .

Huge question! I don’t want to give you a generic pageant girl answer. So I’m going go with something I picked up from an Arj Barker stand-up show: AQUA – always question unwarranted authority.

You're driving along a deserted road in a canyon at night. There's a large wounded animal in the middle of the road. You can't move it and you can't turn around. What do you do?

In classic Yasmin style, I’d recognise that there was a problem ahead, and pretend it wasn’t there. . . I’d wind up the windows, lock the doors, turn off engine and play some tunes. I’d sit there silently until morning, when it would be safe to get out of the car. If I found that the animal hadn’t made it through the night, at least I would be content in knowing that it had spent the last moments of its life on earth listening to Bon Iver playing through my car speakers…

What’s your view of celebrity?

To me, celebrity necessitates a duality of identity, a separation between private and public. And I think anyone who has to negotiate between their public self and their private self is bound to find themselves confused and dissatisfied. I think it’s natural to desire recognition for whatever it is that you do, but celebrity takes it to the next level, where it becomes a kind of worship.

What's your idea of a good time?

Good music, good people and a whole lot of spontaneity.

You will never. . .

Take a flying leap. I’m terrified of heights.

The biggest influence on my life has been. . .

My childhood. I had the most incredible childhood in Bali. I remember exploring the rice fields near my house, picking star fruit from the trees behind our family pura, being read my favourite Dr Seuss book by my pembantu Iluh, and staging musicals on the kitchen steps with my little brother. I was surrounded by so much love.

Your Top 3 all time best films: 1. All About My Mother: (Todo Sobre Mi Madre) – Pedro Almodovar 2. The Five Obstructions – Lars von Trier and Jørgen Leth 3. Caché – Michael Haneke Describe yourself in six words.

Coming to a cinema near you.

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Photo: Spencer Hansen

Text: Mike Pohorly

interview Uncle Jim taught her how to give.

She won a Yak Award for Best Community Services in 2011.

Since then she's taken the challenge and moved mountains in the name of others.

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Christina, it’s great to be here at Revolver Café with you. Are you Bali’s most popular person?

No way (laughs), that would be Governor Made Pastika.

You do use your powers of popularity for good.

Yes I have been known for being out there as a social butterfly and connecting people together. So I decided to use the Bali networks and social circles to help those less fortunate in Bali. My Uncle (mum's bother) was a philanthropist, donated US$500,000 to the Disabled Children of Cuba Foundation, so I guess I get it from Uncle Jim. It’s a cliché that us foreigners always talk about wanting to give something back. So I went out and just went to it.

And what I see inspires me to do more.

Which has led you to the Charity Challenge – as Bali’s own “biggest loser”.

Yes, being here in Bali and having a good time with the social calender . . . I was neglecting my health. Then this weight-loss challenge for charity was proposed to me by Kerry Ball from Whiteball Media. I then thought if I'm going to do the weight loss then I may as well go the whole hog and give up the alcohol, cigarettes and caffeine. The challenge was to lose 15kg in 12 weeks in order to raise money to buy a transport bus for the handicapped orphanage YPAC in Jimbaran. As at the moment the 22 kids that live at the centre can’t really go anywhere, unless it's through volunteers who organize outings from time to time. The rest of the time they are literally confined to their rooms.

The YPAC children were the same ones you raised money for last year at Warisan through the Heart Strings event?

Yes, that enabled us to buy computers, internet for a year and a projector for the kids and a complete kitchen renovation, new doors and windows, new beds. It’s so amazing to see these children neglected by society and then to have access to the world. I walked in the other day and Yuyun, who is a thalidomide kid, was on the computer learning Japanese. To see these kids being shunned as handicaps – as they often are in Bali – and then moving on to where they are now is so inspiring for me.

So for these kids you were willing to make your weight loss challenge a public challenge?

That was the most difficult part. It was hard to see those 'before' photos of myself everywhere on Facebook. Every time people put in a 'like' the photo popped up on my screen again. But I knew it had to be done because of the awareness. It’s funny because even though I knew I was overweight, looking at the pics made it a harsh reality. Exposing myself helped me.

You look great now. And I heard that your challenge has created a trend here – it’s turned into a bit of Cultural Meme, which Richard Dawkins referred to as necessary for evolution, in which behaviors spread from person to person

in society.

The biggest thing in certain quarters of Bali is that everything is associated with alcohol. Every event and party and gathering takes place around a drink. Even looking at the daily sunset requires a 'sunset drink'. So through my public challenge I’ve been flooded with so many others who have been inspired to challenge themselves to lose weight, start exercising, stop smoking or stop drinking for a month. Maybe it’s been a bit of a wake-up call to some – to see me do it. They think, if she can do it, so can I. What’s been your biggest surprise with the challenge?

Doing things I never thought I could do. I climbed Mount Agung, something I only ever dreamed of. I did that climb in memory of my beautiful father Angelo who passed away in 2010. He would have been so proud of me. My next climb will be Mount Batur, then I'm going to do some diving.

Will your Diva lunches be the same without drinking?

They've become a mainstay on the social calendar.

Of course! The Diva lunches are about charity. Every month I get together with some amazing and inspirational women – the next one is December 13th, our huge charity lunch supporting www.sacredchildhoods.org. What started as a few ladies getting together at Biku three years ago has turned into a monthly event with close to a hundred joining us for the next one at Cocoon.

Because Salvador Bali isn’t doing this interview, I’ll need to ask you myself – what is your Bali story?

I came here 28 years ago in 1983 and have been here off and on since then. I was based here in the early '90s, my husband is from Jakarta and we have three sons. And then I came back to live here full-time five years ago.

Your Bali Love/Hate list?

Absolutely more love than hate. The development is crazy, the concrete villas are everywhere, I miss the joglo style villas and the infrastructure is breaking and Bali now seems to attract people who want to claim they are the best at everything and we seem to find that maybe they might not be as a great as they think.

But the love is the love of the Balinese people and how they’ve always accepted us to their island. And the people that you meet from all over the world is a blessing. I had a dinner party one night and everyone was from different places. It was like hosting the United Nations.

How can people get involved and start giving back to the less fortunate in Bali?

Anyone can contact YPAC Handicapped Orphanage at www. friends-ypac-bali.org or attend the Orphanage at Jl. By Pass Ngurah Rai KM 30 Jimbaran. Tel: (0361)771718. Contact Ibu Tanti, Bapak Putu or Eka.

steely resolve.

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people milennials ... tsuk. tony stanton talks to mel palummo about bali, being young and making the right choices. PHOTO: ryerson anselmo for costes portrait.

"I am very clear on what I value in life."

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Mel, how did you first come to know Bali, and what brought you back here?

My friend Jesse, who I met in Sydney's Manly where I’m from, moved here a few years back. He had been trying to get me over here for a while because he felt I would do really well here. I never considered it seriously though as my main focus was my studies, but when I finally finished and worked on getting my business going I was constantly met with the challenge of wanting to live a balanced life and falling short. I tried a few ways, like working at night in a bar so I could work on my business during the day … to working full time in the day and trying to work my business around that, but I always found myself struggling with money and time. Early last year Jesse booked me to shoot a campaign for his sunglasses brand Enki, which is when I started to look at maybe staying in Bali long term. When I finally came out here I fell in love. The excitement in possibility grew, which I knew meant I was on the right path. So I decided to save some money, sell everything and give it a crack.

nine to five? Go out on the weekends and write myself off, then feel shit for three days trying to recover?”

I understood then that there has to be more to life.

At the time I was only 24 and I had a really good job managing a cardboard recycling company. I was earning good coin, I was in a great relationship with my partner.

Things were going really well for me, but I still didn't feel satisfied. That question burned inside of me and led me down a path that I never knew existed. I became obsessed with understanding the nature of reality and my purpose for being here. I read books and watched videos on a vast range of subjects, from quantum physics to conspiracy theories to spiritual mastery. I began to become aware of the power of the mind and found happiness in other activities that were largely to do with self-healing. I studied a variety of healing modalities such as shamanism, crystals, energy healing, mediumship and tarot but realised that everything we experience and want in life starts in the mind. And so I studied meditation and then transpersonal coaching.

You look of mixed heritage, what’s the story?

My father is Italian and my mother is Filipino but I was born and raised in Australia. They met in the Philippines whilst my dad was on holiday.

Do you still use what you learned?

Yes, every day. I used to live in such a victimised mentality and struggled with depression and suicide for many years.

I've changed a lot as a person since then and live a much happier and fulfilled life. When you become aware of this power that you hold within, you become addicted to knowing more of who you are and what you’re capable of. To see your limitations and grow beyond them is an incredible feat and so satisfying. I still have days where I'm emotional and reactive but it’s increasingly less and less. Life is whatever you imagine it to be and imagination is limitless, so everyday I push myself to dream bigger because I know that something magical and extraordinary is just around the corner.

What was it like growing up in Australia and being part Asian and European?

For the most part, people were pretty accepting and nonjudgmental. I struggled mostly with my parents as their value and belief systems were still strongly rooted in their countries of origin.

Do you think racism is stronger in Australia than, say, Bali?

I personally see more racism in Bali than I do in Australia, but maybe if I grew up near or with an aboriginal community it might have been different. In Bali I really notice two worlds colliding. A traditional village mentality and a western mentality. It saddens me to hear people being put down when they haven't even tried to understand the culture they are coexisting with. That is why it is so important for me to learn the language and traditions of the Balinese people, out of respect and appreciation for what their culture brings to the planet and our human family.

We hear you studied meditation and coaching … how did that happen?

The journey was sparked from a single moment. I remember walking out to my car one morning to go to work. I was feeling dusty from the weekend when a thought stopped me in my tracks. "Is this what the rest of my life is going to be like? Work Monday to Friday,

What’s wrong with today’s Milennials? What’s right with them?

This is such a huge subject to cover! I'll try my best to keep it succinct. Being a Millennial has its challenges but also advantages. Most prominently, we have been born into a time of great technological advancements and continue to grow with them. However I observe that there is even a big difference between people born in the ’80s and people born in the ‘90s due to the fact that technology is advancing so quickly. In my eyes I consider myself lucky for being born in the ’80s as I didn't experience mobile phones and internet usage until I was in my teens.

The only kind of technology I was exposed to was TV and the Atari. Social media only came on to the scene through MSN chat and Myspace when I was about 14, so the way I connected with people was still mostly face to face. I am grateful for this because it taught me valuable

interpersonal skills. If I wanted to talk to someone, I would have to meet with them, showing up as I am without the pressure of meeting the expectations of an internet identity. My community was limited to people I had immediate contact with and so if I wanted to meet new people I would have to go out to bars, clubs etc. or I would have to have the courage to go up to someone on the street or cafe and start a conversation. Now we can construct whatever identity we wish to share with the world. We are inundated with information, and societal expectations and advertising bombards our senses through our phones, watches, TV advertising screens and billboards. It has become so normal to be constantly stimulated that I feel people are losing touch with what it is that truly makes them happy. I feel this is directly linked to the rise of anxiety and depression within our society because people are being swept away in the information current and don't know how to swim. In saying that there is the other side of the coin. We are more connected with each other, information on any subject is available in just a few clicks in many formats and creativity abounds, making it easier for us to learn and grow and make informed choices.

How do you spend your time when you get to choose what you do?

I am very clear on what I value in life and so my choices revolve around this. Every day is a little different depending on what I’ve got going on but generally I map out my goals for the year at the beginning of each year and have some sort of routine. My daily non-negotiables are generally exercise or moving my body in some way, meditating, journaling, spending time in nature and getting a good amount of sleep. I have a list that I tick off every day and I make room for fun activities, adventures to new places, travel, time alone, time with my partner and activities that make me feel nourished … like learning something new, massages, chats with family or friends or sharing a nice meal with someone.

What is the trait you most deplore in others?

That's a tough one. Close mindedness? The inability to even try to see another person’s perspective.

On what occasion do you lie?

To save someone from feeling hurt or uncomfortable.

I'm working on that!

Mel, thanks so much for your time!

Love and good vibes to you at The Yak.

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my, my, what's a girl supposed to do? clothing designer, store owner, musician, song writer and singer... what's next for belinda kazanci?

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songstress. photo by Edmond Keshishyan.

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B.K. by Mher Ajamian.

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BELINDA, tell us about you...

I was born in Istanbul, Turkey, and moved to the US when I was nine. I currently live in Los Angeles. I have played the flute (both classical and jazz) since I was 10 and sung since I was very young. My band, Echocell, came together in 2000, and I have been writing songs and singing with them since then.

At what point did you get the music bug?

I can remember spending a lot of time in front of an old record player with headphones on as a kid.

Other kids would be outside playing and I'd be glued to my record player listening to old Turkish records. While in school I was always is some way involved in music. Whether it was singing in a choir, or playing jazz, I looked forward to it more than anything. After college I realized I wanted to pursue music as a career and that’s when all other things took second place and I started really focusing on writing songs and performing.

How do you approach your song writing?

I do write my own songs yet I love to collaborate with different people I admire and am inspired by.

Co-writing for me has so much magic in it. That exchange of ideas between writers and the energy that is created in working with someone else can give you a result much bigger than working on your own. I've worked with different producers and arrangers over the past 10 years and I’ve had the honour to work in some great studios in Los Angeles as well as New York.

What do you see as your major musical achievements? How do you feel when you perform?

With Echocell I've written four albums and performed what feels like a million times over the course of many years, mostly in California. With our new record we hope to start a European tour.

I've been a vocalist on songs in major films such Bangkok Dangerous with Nicholas Cage and My Best Friends Girl with Kate Hudson. I've had the pleasure

of working with different electronic musicians as a vocalist and as songwriter on dance tracks. When I'm on stage I feel at home. It is the place where I can express myself freely as an artist and connect with the audience. Being on stage sometimes feels like you're naked – especially as a singer... you’re allowing the public see a deeper part of who you are. This takes more courage than one can ever imagine. That feeling of being on stage is unlike anything else. It’s freeing, it’s inspiring, it’s connecting not only with yourself, but with the world around you.

Where has the music taken you travelwise?

I haven’t been able to travel much with the music but this year I have a feeling that’s going to change.

I did have the pleasure of performing at Bar Luna in Ubud with Navicula this past June, which was so much fun! The new Echocell record that we have been working on for the past year feels like our best work yet. We've had the pleasure of working with amazing musicians such as Simon Katz from Jamiroquai and Gorillaz. We produced and recorded most of the record in New York and worked with the amazing Dave Darlington who has worked with artists like Sting and Bjork. It’s been a blessing to work with such professional and humble musicians.

I'm eager to take the songs on the road, and across continents.

Future plans?

We never know what the future holds but so far we’ve been getting a great reaction to the new songs. I hope they will go far and our fans will connect with them.

Any disappointments?

There has been a major shift in the music industry over the past 10 years. Record labels are no longer pumping tons of money into bands to develop them from the ground up. This could be seen as a disappointment but I see this as an opportunity.

The artists growing up in the music industry now

have much more of a say in how their music is shaped and where it will go. This makes it more difficult because you have to work harder and hustle more than ever but it all comes down to what you really want at the end and how hard you are willing to work to have it. With the expansion of technology anyone has the ability to make music right in their own bedroom with a laptop...but this doesn't mean anyone can make great music, or timeless music, so the ones that are still authentic to themselves and their art and work hard to get there will survive – at least that’s my belief.

What's your philosophy in life? We're always keen to know...

I love the saying: “Sometimes you have to throw your hat over the fence and figure out how to get it later.” I have lived like this and continue to some degree in different aspects of my life. We have to follow our inner voice and do what we love.

Sometimes that doesn't guarantee the easy path but at least we will not fail ourselves in the end by listening to our true calling.

Do have a message for the world?

Do what you love, not what you are supposed to do, or have to do, or someone thinks you should do it. Imagine your life as an empty canvas. What do you want the colours to be? What do you want to paint on it? It’s up to you and you are the one who is going to have to live with it when it’s hung up on your living room wall. When you write, as an artist, you do it to capture and hold a chapter of your life in the palm of your hand. Every lyric, every melody, every spark of idea, has a life of its own – as it comes from experiencing love, anger, joy, pain, heartache, loss, all those emotions that make us human. When a song is born it becomes a part of you, and every time you hear it you get to relive that same moment over again.

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call me Marco Fantyn Alfonzo teaches martial arts to the Indonesian Special Forces. She’s also an actress, model, ballerina, jazz dancer and classical pianist. Oh my!

MY name is Marco Fantyn Alfonso, age 29 and single. I was born in Hong Kong but I am Indonesian. My father’s heritage is from East Timor, South Sulawesi and Portuguese. My mother comes from Chinese, Javanese and other descents, so I’m mixed!

At what point did you come to Indonesia?

When I was three years old we moved to Jakarta. I went to the Palestinian International School for one year, and then switched to Catholic school where I finished grade school.

Before that, at the age of three, I was in Australia where I started to learn ballet and piano.

At the age of three?

My parents were very disciplined people, my mother was a pianist and my father an athlete. My mother saw I had potential, so I was trained intensely right from the start.

I’m still doing that, 25 years on. I do two, three hours every day. By the time I was four I had already done four concerts.

During my schooling in Jakarta, studying dance and music, I acquired two scholarships to the Alvin Ailey and Martha 166

Gram Dance Schools in New York City. So I went to New York and studied there, then at 16 I completely stopped, the passion was gone and I came back to Jakarta.

What was your next move?

At 17 I became a model for Kerry Models from Singapore, based in Jakarta. Catwalk mostly, but also catalogue shoots.

Then I hit the movies. I was working out in this gym and there was a scout looking for bad-ass looking women, I went to the casting and was in. In the movie I was taught to fight, then there was a television series called Jaclyn. It was a lot of fun and dangerous as well. I love discipline and being challenged. I was hooked and from that my father sent me to college in Germany for sports science.

Back to being a classical pianist, do you do that professionally?

Yes, I played in lounges in Europe…private parties or functions and recitals. I’ve done it all, and still do.

You’re also a sports enthusiast?

Oh yes, I’m a freak when it comes to sports. I swim intensely

Marco Fantyn Alfonzo.

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"You know men, they don’t like to taking orders from women, so sometimes I have to kick their ass. "

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three to five miles every morning; then there’s the running, rope skipping, tribal dancing…that’s to keep your whole body moving and using different muscles…and quite a few martial arts.

I’m worn out just listening to you. What degrees do have in the martial arts field and how did you become a trainer for the military?

I have a second-degree black belt in Shotokan Karate and a fourth-degree in Taekwondo.

What about Kung Fu? Kung Fu actually comes from the Chinese culture, martial arts comes from traditional kicking and so forth. I still practice dancing, but my passion is for the other. The introduction to the army was from the Bin House owner, the poster mother for Batik. I was in this club in Germany where a lot of martial arts people hang out, she came up to me while I was training and introduced me to someone in the military. I had all the correct techniques, and so it started. I have been training them for the past two years.

Who do you teach in the military and for what?

I’m teaching the Special Forces and the Rangers, it’s the real deal. This is about the tournaments and you have to win. I train them for the tournaments and, happy to say, everybody’s winning and smiling.

Have you personally participated in tournaments?

Yes. Fifty in all, 42 of which I won.

Are you the only woman teacher?

I haven’t seen any others around.

How do you think the men feel about you teaching them?

Intimidated at first. Some feel that I’m insulting them. It comes down to communication. You know men, they don’t

like to taking orders from women, so I have to kick their ass.

Some are happy and some are not. I’m hurting their egos, but point of fact is they have to learn to fight.

You have to earn their respect?

I do, but I don’t give a damn, sorry.

Being a world traveller, what was your last stop before coming to Bali?

I came from London last year. I’m here on holiday escaping from all this metropolitan craziness. I go fishing with the fishermen, swimming in the sea, hiking like a hillbilly [laughter], exploring and enjoying life.

What about relationships? I mean you have so much on your plate...

It’s hard finding someone to understand who you are. So to date I’m single, but by no means is a relationship ruled out.

What is your daily lifestyle like?

My daily schedule is a mixture. One day I jump rope, the next day swim and so forth, just as long as I get through my energy and the bad stuff one encounters. One and a half hours, maximum. Eat simple, live simple.

Last words?

Explore. Bad experience, good experience, just keep going.

Nurture your soul, that’s what matters, keep the spirit up. Do your very best and don’t be nasty to people. Unless you have to.

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interview In yer face . . .

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Peace Novie, let’s jump right in.

What does Hip-Hop mean to you?

Hip-Hop means a lot to me. It’s not just about the elements in it, it’s the way of life that changed my life and got me to this point.

At what point did you know dance is what you loved and wanted to do?

It was a process to get to that point. Dance was just a hobby for me at first, but it slowly changed my life. From the way I see things to the way I do things.

Eventually freedom is what I saw in dancing. I was feeling like nobody could use or control me [when I danced], so I wanted to create something bigger in my life. I got tired of just sitting in front of my desk and stuck in someone else’s rules. I think that was the point I decided to seek my freedom through dancing.

How did you become the only b-girl in Aerial Crew?

How is it being the only girl in a crew with nine guys?

Um . . . I have no idea! Maybe because we haven’t found any girls yet who really wanted to jump in and take it seriously. I would like to have some partners though. To be honest, it’s not easy to be the only girl in the crew.

There are some situations that make me feel more confident and feel safe around the “brothers”, but also there’s a lot of situations that make me wish I could be as strong or tough as the boys and to have that skill that makes you stand out more.

Well you do have the skill – and being the only girl, you definitely stand out and are unique. You’re also are one of the few women actively involved in Hip-Hop culture in Bali and throughout Indonesia.

What can you say to other young women to give them a greater understanding of the culture and inspire them to participate further?

For me Hip-Hop is universal, anyone can get involved; boys, girls, younger or older people. Even though it has big differences with our [Indonesian] culture, I saw HipHop in a different way, as something positive to build creativity, rather than just following the bling.

It doesn’t have to change your style and character to be a Hip-Hop girl/boy. Some people think, “how can I get money by doing this?” but once you do it with love and passion, the money will come by itself. Just be yourself, understand the culture and the knowledge, be humble, be creative and love what you do. I had a few people who supported me while I was learning, but faith brought them to me. I feel blessed and honoured that I might be an inspiration for young people.

What projects do you have planned for the future?

To create our own basecamp to build the scene bigger and to support all local talent.

Name your top five favorite songs to dance to.

Wow there’s a lot! But for the Top five it would be: Fu-Schnickens – True Fu-Schnick Kris Kros – Jump James Brown – I Know You Got Soul Michael Jackson – Black or White EPMD – I’m Mad Last words of wisdom for the people?

“Where there’s a will, there’s a way.”

Thanks Novie.

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Breakin’ with tradition.

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