The Yak #66 by The Yak Magazine

Karma Kandara Resort, Jalan Villa Kandara, Banjar Wijaya Kusuma Ungasan Bali 80362, Indonesia T : +62 (0)361 848 2200

E : info@karmakandara.com

f I karma.kandara.bali

we create... experiences

Photo HARRY MARK

Classic Charm of Indonesian Dining Plataran at Canggu +62 811 3882 281

Jl. Pengubugan, Banjar Silayukti - Kuta, Bali 80361, Indonesia plataran.canggu@plataran.com

www.plataran.com

www.theyakmag.com

Volume sixty six mar/apr/may 2020

The Yak Magazine Sophie Digby, Nigel Simmonds, Agustina Ardie, Michelle Lamb Creative Director Stuart Sullivan Sales & Marketing Amik Suhartin, Shanty Wijaya Production Manager Lia Maharani Graphic Designers Irawan Zuhri, Ida Bagus Adi Accounting Julia Rulianti, Istiana Distribution Made Marjana, Putu Widi Susanto, Gede Swastika, Made Rakayasa, Kadek Eri Publisher PT. L.I.P Licence AHU/47558/AH/01/01/2011

on the Cover: Peacock by reine paradis.

Advertising Enquiries Tel: (+62 361) 766 539, 0851 0043 1804, 0851 0043 1805, 0851 0043 1796 info@theyakmag.com sales@theyakmag.com Snail Mail & Walk Ins The Yak Magazine, Kompleks Perkantoran Simpang Siur Square, Jl. Setia Budi, Kuta, Bali 80361, Indonesia

OK you know the drill. No part of this publication may be copied or reproduced electronically or otherwise without prior permission from the Publisher. Opinions expressed are those of the authors not the Publisher. The Publisher reserves the right to refuse advertising that does not comply with the magazine's design criteria. The Yak will not be held responsible for copyright infringements on images supplied directly by advertisers and/or contributors. Check us out online, we’re awesome (if we do say so ourselves). Peace.

Magazine printed by Gramedia Outdoor assets by Supaprint © PT Luxury In Print www.theyakmag.com

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contents 16

Yakety yak A Different Path

Femke den Haas

alt living Float

dates with destiny Diary Days

people Mel Palummo

alt living Colour Control

one world Sharing Is Caring

duoview Pim Gietelink and Dina Daly

alt living ZoĂŤ Palmer-Wright

new in the hood News From The Hood

artscene Reine Paradis

alt living Different Strokes

out of the box Stuff Of Life

culture vulture Stephan Kotas

alt living Vintage Wear

people Paul Ropp

yak fashion Adam & Eva

issues Absolut Russia

people Cindy Cowan

alt living Alt. Wear

spas Pampering

people Sukma Nirmala Latief

alt living Pyramids of Chi

Conrad Renewed

84 12

causes

76 46

venting in a villa

Asian Bistro

Nightclub

Bali

+21YO | DRESS FASHIONABLE | JL. PETITENGET 208X, SEMINYAK BALI RESERVATIONS: WWW.SHISHIBALI.COM WWW.CHOPE.COM | INFO: (62) 8191 8888 059 OPEN 6PM TO 5AM SHISHIBALI | VALET SERVICE AVAILABLE

contents Omnibus, page 66: One Flu Over the Cuckoo's Nest

over the edge

Magia II

100

In Da Surf

102

Sandat Glamping

106

Omnia Turns Two

108

Diageo Daze

110

Negroni, Naturally

112

Wah Wah Burger

passions

venting in a villa

sounds around

taken not stirred

oral pleasures

90 14

114

Bebek Timbungan

116

Mano Beach Club

118

O Lala Bistronomy

120

Karma Beach Club

124

Plataran Canggu

126

CafĂŠ del Mar

128

Shi Shi

oral pleasures

130

Iwa Bar at Tugu Hotel

134

The Edge

136

The Ungasan

138

All Fired Up

143

Client Clobber

150

Whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s What

152

History Repeating

oral pleasures

venting in a villa

Big Six

fashion freestyle

ad directory

astro yak

Köpskam is a Swedish anti-consumerism term used to describe the shaming of someone buying something new, especially apparel. And you can see why. According to the United Nations, the fashion industry produces more carbon emissions than all international flights and sea shipments put together. We, at The Yak are not here to call out Bali’s fabulous fashion industry where, on the whole, Bali’s fashion brands manufacture locally in Bali, create endless jobs and for the most part have adopted ‘slow fashion’, with its concern about quality instead of quantity. Producing garments that can last for years, with designs that are not viewed as disposable. Köpskam is part of the millenial movement. The alternative to what went before. So in this issue, #66 of The Yak magazine, we go with just that – the alternative – Alt. Living. Starting with two very important causes in our One World and skipping past our regular feature New In The Hood, our Out of The Box shouts out sustainability, quality and design with two of the products being uberenvironmentally friendly. No.1 – Meet Peter James – shoemaker; and No.2 a must-have – the multi use “cotton bud” – no need for more seahorses to be using your throw-aways as rafts to drift along the ocean currents, thanks! Our People section introduces you to some of the known and unknown faces. Paul Ropp, the original disruptor, and Cindy Cowan, film producer, about to launch Seekers – a documentary on those seeking the higher self, the higher vibration, alongside ancient rituals, beliefs and customs – and yes, parts of it will be filmed here on Bali. One of our most respected environmentalists is up next – Femke den Haas – and her JAAN foundation. Please give generously! We follow that with a string of local heroes until we come to the “slant” of this issue, “Alternative Living” – #altliving. Where we sound-heal at Pyramids of Chi, deprive our senses of all stimulation in an almost-alien flotation tank and end up finding equilibrium with Aura Soma using their patented colour, plant and crystal energy oils. Alternative nutrition by Zoe Palmer-Wright is up next, which, we might need to note, is becoming more mainstream, so surely it will not be alternative for much longer. We then go and reap the benefits of the ‘gifts from Mother earth’ for our facials and massages before we go off on an out-of-town treasure hunt for pre-loved fashion. After all this alternative living, we might just need to come back to base camp with some more pampering – we’ll take this one at Blow Bar in Seminyak, thank you – and head south to check out the Conrad Bali’s massive make-over. Digital detox is next on the cards as we spoil ourselves on the brand new, luxed-out Phinisi called Magia II – Come aboard and broaden those horizons, people! So, having replenished the soul and the spirit, it is time to look at pleasing the body. Our Oral Pleasures and Taken Not Stirred will whisk you through our favourite eateries and watering holes; of note is Bebek Timbungan on Sunset where delicious, authentic Balinese food can be shared and enjoyed – definitely a Yak favourite, definitely different – and, if you have not yet tried your host island’s cuisine, we think it’s high time you did! Fully sated on all levels, we find ourselves with nothing left to do but check out AstroYak by the fabulous Dallas Kalmar, and see what the stars and planets have in store for us this next quarter – any alternatives here, we wonder? Maybe book a private horoscope reading for 2020 to find out… As ever…May The Yak be with you! 16

yakbak Dear Yak, First of all, I wanted to say thank you for your support of Kate Wood, we have had so much attention since you started to promote us. Some of the highlights have included an email from Hong Kong Airlines magazine who saw our products in Yak #64 and as a result invited us to be included in their onboard shopping catalogue. Then after the magazine launch party at the Kempinksi Hotel we met several new customers, one of whom bought a bamboo bicycle from us to display at KOKO Bamboo Restaurant in Ubud! There’s more. After The Yak golf event at Bukit Pandawa the lady who won a pair of our glasses came back to our shop to buy more and has now become a valued customer and friend. PLUS we’ve had customers come into the store to claim their Yak VIP discount when they made a purchase. So – thank you and I hope your find this email encouraging.

Dear Yak, I just got back to Freemantle after a long trip from Bali to Italy and then Perth and I just wanted to let you now my copy of The Yak was much admired in every port of call!

Best regards, Dina Daly Kate Wood Originals

Best regards, Jane Hyde Oxfordshire, UK.

All part of the service. Claim your 20% discount at Kate Wood Originals by signing up to become a Yak VIP at http://bit.ly/YakVIP

Why thank you kindly Jane. Do let us know where we should send the cheque.

Best regards, Michaela Boriotti Liddon Pearls Peripatetic publishing from Bali! Hopefully you stole it from one of the island's fabulous venues ... still our best international distribution network! Dear Yak, In a world sadly fast becoming bereft of courtesy and gentility – where trolls rule Twitter and racists run amok – I just wanted to say your magazine remains a pillar of decency in priase of the good life.

In The Lap Of: Byron Kelleher all blacks rugby legend Byron Kelleher joined us for our ninth Yak golf event . . . arriving in Bali the night before he was sans luggage having been parted from it by a relcalcitrant airline. "I literally have nothing to wear," he told us with just hours to go before the game. No worries. After a quick chat with our friends at RipCurl we rustled up some of the finest sporting gear known to mankind and hey presto – the legend was good to go. Fore!

REFRESH YOUR TASTE BUDS! Hit up W Bali’s favorite beachside restaurant with the new refreshing healthy lunch menu. Recharge and enjoy the spectacular view!

For reservations +62 361 3000 106 bf.wbali@whotels.com starﬁshbloorestaurant.com

LEILANI, KIRRA-BELLE, BRISA AND LEAH SURF REVIVAL COLLECTION - A PRODUCT OF THE SEARCH

calendar 20

fridge magnet fodder for the peripatetic.

The Yak Magazine Golf Community Cup Back again for another spectacular day on the greens, The Yak Golf Community Cup 10.0 will take place at the Bali National Golf Course on March 14th. Starting at 1pm, teams of two will compete in a Texas Scramble to decide who’s the biggest sheriff in town. Expect exceptional prizes including a helicopter tour, hotel stays, restaurant and bar vouchers, coveted products and curated food and beverages from some of Bali’s best brands. The IDR 1.8 million entrance fee includes green fees, a cart, caddy, shirt, dinner and fabulous snacks throughout the day. Be sure to stick around for the awards ceremony to see who reigns victorious and for the chance to win big in the lucky draw. Registration starts at 11am on the day of the tournament. Secure your spot at reservations@balinational.com. www.theyakmag.com/golf

Ubud Food Festival Celebrate Indonesia’s diverse and delicious cuisine at the Ubud Food Festival. This foodie extravaganza runs from April 17th to April 19th and will focus on the theme of culinary heroes. Founder Janet DeNeefe says, “For our sixth year, we want to recognize and celebrate the people behind the extraordinary flavours and evolving stories of Indonesia’s culinary landscape. With the theme Heroes, we want you to meet the unsung heroes of Indonesian food, the mothers and fathers who cook their age-old family recipes at home. We want to honour their immense contribution to creating the rich flavours we all love.” You can pay homage to the heroes at gustatory events that include cooking demos, panel discussions, hands-on workshops, a night market, and more. www.ubudfoodfestival.com

BaliSpirit Festival Now in its 12th year, The BaliSpirit Festival has grown from a humble music and yoga festival into an internationally renowned event celebrating yoga, world music, well-being and the global community. The festival takes place in Bali’s arts and cultural capital Ubud and will run from March 29th to April 5th. Throughout the week, thousands of freespirited folk will take part in inspiring yoga and meditation classes, wellness workshops, community marketplaces, kids activities and nightly concerts under the stars. From easygoing vipassana to heavy-hitting martial arts, dance classes, sound healing sessions, and dharma talks on eco-activism, you’ll find plenty to get the body and mind flowing. Tickets range from one-day passes to full-week packages. www.balispiritfestival.com

50Th Anniversary Of Earth Day April 22, 2020 marks the 50th anniversary of Earth Day. The first Earth Day was announced in 1970 via an ad in the New York Times that called on Americans to “reclaim the environment we have wrecked”. Now 50 years later this global movement mobilises millions of people around the world to drive positive action for our planet. The theme for Earth Day 2020 is climate action, which is a fitting choice for the 50th anniversary because climate change represents the biggest challenge to the future of humanity and the Earth. Be part of the change this Earth Day by joining a clean-up, striking against climate change, hosting an event in your community, or simply using your voice to speak up about climate change and help launch a new era of environmentalism.

If You’re In The Netherlands... April 27 — King’s Day: Get ready for orange madness to take over The Netherlands on April 27th when millions of revellers will dress in their brightest orange clothing and take to the streets to celebrate the birthday of King Willem-Alexander. The festivities will be happening throughout the nation, but the biggest parties and crowds will be in Amsterdam. People in the capital start partying the night before, and some even follow through until the next day. On April 27th, the city centre will be closed off to cars and there will be flea markets on the streets, outdoor concerts, and parties for all ages. Be sure to make plenty of pit stops at the bars to raise a glass of beer or three in honour of the king.

April 13 to April 15 — Songkran: If you happen to be anywhere in Thailand between April 13 and April 15, chances are you’re going to get soaked. Songkran is the Thai New Year, and most Thai people celebrate by dousing everyone in water. The official Songkran tradition is to honour the elders by sprinkling water on their hands, but the celebrations have evolved into giant water fights that last for three days in nearly every major city and town. Grab a water gun and throw yourself into the mix, because you’re going to get wet anyways, so you may as well join in the fun.

May 9 to May 16 — Invictus Games (The Hague): Prince Harry, the Duke of Sussex and patron of the Invictus Games Foundation, has announced that the 5th Invictus Games will be hosted in The Hague this May. This international sporting event is for physically or mentally wounded servicemen and women and its goal is to stimulate recovery, support rehabilitation and generate respect for those who serve or have served their country. The event will bring together over 500 competitors from 19 nations to compete in a series of 10 sports including wheelchair basketball, power lifting and sitting volleyball.

IF YOU’RE IN FRANCE... April 13 — Giant Omelette Festival (Bessières): Every Easter Monday, the Knights of the Giant Omelette gather in the town of Bessières to crack over 15,000 eggs that are used to cook a giant omelette. Some say that the tradition began when Napoleon and his army passed through the town and Napoleon sampled an omelette at a local inn that was so good he demanded the townspeople gather all of their eggs and cook a giant omelette for his army. To this day, the giant omelette is an Easter tradition that everyone can enjoy for free, along with other fun events like an Easter egg hunt, a parade, outdoor concerts, and traditional dance performances.

If You’re In Thailand… April 10 to April 13 — Afroodeesiac (Bangkok): Afrodeesiac is a vibrant three-day festival that celebrates African culture through arts, music, and entertainment. It originally started for the diaspora of African people living in Bangkok, but is open to anyone who appreciates great music, dancing, and Afro flavours. The name includes the word ‘dee’ to symbolise a happy fun state of being, as in the Thai word sà-nùk dee. The festival will take place at the Westin Grande Sukhumvit and feature locally-based and international musicians and dancers such as Eliza Sala, Phillyp Chanlatte, DJ Bugsy and Nelson Campos.

May 16 — Night of Museums (Paris): If you’ve ever been to Paris, then you know how expensive it can be to hit up all of the famous museums. Well Night of the Museums is your chance to experience the top institutions for free. This includes the Louvre, the Musée d’Orsay, and the Centre Pompidou to name just a few. There will also be special events happening at various museums like classical music concerts, storytelling tours, film screenings, and workshops for children. Most museums in the city will offer free admission from 6pm to midnight. Keep in mind that it’s for one night only, so if you miss it, you’ll have to wait a whole year for the event to come around again.

giving back

books for kids to promote an understanding of nature and bamboo wheelchairs for those in need. two great charities to get involved in. Green Books With a population of over 270 million that is growing rapidly, Indonesia is seeing the highest demand for resources and pressure on the natural environment than any other point in history. The country currently has the world’s highest rate of deforestation, not to mention alarming rates of overfishing, exploitation of endangered species and plastic pollution. Clearly something needs to change, and one organisation believes that youth are the key.

Bali Beach Wheels are the sole distributors and suppliers of Vipamat’s Hippocampe Wheelchairs in Indonesia. These versatile chairs have three wheels and can be configured in a number of ways to tackle various terrain like sand, mountains, hiking trails and even snow. Other unique touches include comfortable cladding that does not heat up in the sun, thick foam seats that dry quickly, and balloon tires that can venture on softer sand.

Green Books began in 2013 as a grassroots initiative by Petr Hindrich, who was on a surf trip to Sumba and discovered that the local children were growing up without access to books or information about nature. He surmised that perhaps part of the reason pollution, deforestation and other eco issues were so rampant in Sumba and across Indonesia was a lack of environmental education.

The wheelchairs are available for rent by the day, week or month and are also available for purchase. All hire options include accessories like adaptable backs and headrests, moveable armrests, harnesses, parking brakes and transport bags. Even better, a portion of all profits go towards charitable causes and related projects in Indonesia.

Petr believed that books were the perfect tools to engage and inform the children about nature and spark their interest in respecting and protecting the environment. He made a trip to Jakarta where he sought out the best children’s environmental books he could find and brought more than 50 books back to Sumba. The overwhelmingly positive response prompted him to partner with likeminded friends and establish Green Books.

One such project that BBW recently embarked on was the Bamboo All Terrain Wheelchair. The idea came about through a discussion between BBW founders Brad and Twoné Moreland and Duncan Ward, the CEO of Classroom of Hope. The couple learnt of a 12-year-old boy in North Lombok named Nasrudin who had been left disabled by the recent earthquakes.

Over the years, Green Books has shifted their focus from simply providing environmental books to schools and communities in Indonesia to empowering local educators with the knowledge and tools to implement eco-education curriculum and activities for young people. The informal education programme includes games, storytelling, field trips and other activities to raise awareness about the environment. In 2019, Yayasan Green Books Indonesia was established in Denpasar, Bali with the goal of collaborating with other subjects and government agencies to educate local teachers through online resources and offline workshops. They also launched the pilot Zero Waste School Programme to attract more educators who want to make a difference when it comes to sustainability and climate change. The team at Green Books believe that eco-conscious educators are the key, as they can not only influence students, but also other community members, and thus become change makers who contribute to more sustainable, happier and healthier communities that work together as powerful forces in protecting our planet. You can contribute to their mission by donating money, fundraising, or volunteering your time and expertise. www.green-books.org Bali Beach Wheels It doesn’t take much to see that Bali’s diverse tropical landscapes and unique manmade structures can be serious impediments for physically challenged people. Bali Beach Wheels was established to make Bali and the surrounding islands accessible to everyone, whether disabled, injured or aged by providing all-terrain beach wheelchairs to hotels, resorts and villages across Indonesia.

Brad says: “As this boy had no wheelchair, he sadly had to drag himself on the ground to get to school and we felt in our hearts that we had to find a solution for him. After brainstorming we chose to design and build a bamboo all terrain wheelchair using locally sourced bamboo and mountain-bike bicycle wheels which would be easy to source and repair in remote areas.” Brad and Twone immediately got in touch with David Booth of the East Bali Poverty Project and East Bali Bamboo Bikes. Together with bamboo bike designer and master builder Deni Nugraha they came up with a blueprint for an all-terrain wheelchair modelled after the Hippocampe chair, but made with locally sourced bamboo, mountain bike wheels and environmentally friendly lacquer and sealant. The first all-terrain bamboo wheelchair prototype was field tested to great success, so the team went on to build a custom version for Nasrudin, as well as another chair for a boy named Macika, who is the son of one of the EBBB craftsmen. Bali Beach Wheels has now made it their mission to supply these unique wheelchairs to all those in need, but they need funding to make their dream a reality. As each wheelchair has its own serial number, every sponsor will receive a certificate and photos of the wheelchair made and delivered to the individual in need. For those who sponsor the full cost of an entire wheelchair, BBW will also place your name and/or logo on a bamboo plaque on the chair and with your permission place your name on their websites along with photos of the wheelchair delivery. www.balibeachwheels.com

SEASTEM MARINE ESSENCE AGE-DEFYING FORMULA WITH FORTIFYING MARINE NUTRIENTS 100% NATURAL INGREDIENTS B A L I

B A N D U N G

B E K A S I

J A K A R T A

S H O P O NLI NE AT S E NS AT I A . CO M

S U R A B AYA

DESA POTATO HEAD The Potato Head Family is constantly upping the game when it comes to unique lifestyle spaces. In December they unveiled Desa Potato Head, Bali’s first creative village where music, art, design, food, wellness and sustainability collide. The Desa already includes Katamama and the brand’s landmark beach club, but the final element of Ronald Akili’s decade-spanning project is Potato Head Studios, which includes 168 guest rooms, a plantbased Indonesian restaurant, multifunctional gallery, environmentally driven kids club, amphitheatre, beachfront pool, music recording studio, and a subterranean discotheque. The fully completed Desa will open in May 2020. Tel. +62 361 4737979 www.potatohead.co

MASON CHOCOLATES The latest sweet development from Mason Chocolates is the launch of their new Ubud factory nestled within the Mason Adventure Centre. Mason Chocolates combines modern European chocolate making methods with the finest Indonesian cacao beans to produce a unique blend of delicious chocolates. Indonesia is the world’s third largest producer of cacao, however the country has never been known for producing high quality chocolate. Mason Chocolates has made it their mission to prove that Indonesia can match some of the finest quality chocolates in the world. Now with their new factory they’re ready to crank things up a notch and take the chocolate world by storm. Tel. +62 361 721480 www.masonchocolates.com

IT’S ALL IN THE CARDS Wondering what the future will hold for you? Sarah-Jane is a psychic medium who offers tarot card readings to help answer your life questions and give insight into what lies ahead. She channels the universe to speak directly to you and prides herself on her concise delivery and ability to offer specific timelines. With a global reach, Sarah-Jane has a following of faithful clients who regularly check in, and her strong reputation is the result of word-of-mouth recommendation. Her upbeat energy and personality will leave you feeling lighter and connected with a sense of well-being and positivity. Tel. +62 817 383 836 www.thechakraspace.com/services 24

SMOKE, FIRE AND SPICE AT SAMIK It’s all about no-fuss, charcoal-fired cuisine at Samik Eating House & Bar. Australian chef Nick Philip draws on his experience working in esteemed restaurants like Michelin-starred The Clove Club in London and acclaimed Restaurant Taller in Copenhagen to bring us excellently executed dishes inspired by quality ingredients from Bali and the surrounding islands, as well as flavours and spices from the Far to Middle East. Chef Nick’s cuisine can be described as fun, yet complex with no smoke and mirrors, yet big, bold flavours. Dishes include the grilled octopus salad, house-smoked pulled pork wrap, and Angus sirloin steak. Tel. +62 361 731026 www.samikbali.com

EAT YOUR GREENS W Bali’s Pan-Asian restaurant Starfish Bloo has kicked off the year on a healthy note with a brand new lunch menu that features fresh, wholesome fare including a wide selection of plant-based options. Swing by between 12pm and 3pm and you can indulge in colourful veggie and protein packed bowls, sustainable sushi, and vibrant salads made with local produce. Options include the Teriyaki Buddha Poke with charred broccoli, shredded carrot, bok choy, mushroom, red rice, avocado, mango and pickled onions and the Bedugul Roots Slaw with Kintamani orange, soybeans and yuzu-honey dressing. Tel. +62 361 3000 106 www.starfishbloorestaurant.com

KARMA BEACH REVAMPED Bali is home to an abundance of beach clubs, and one of its most adored is Karma Beach Bali at luxury resort Karma Kandara in Uluwatu. Perched at the bottom of a cliff on a private white sand beach that overlooks the Uluwatu reef, it’s easy to see why the beach club charms residents and visitors alike. This December the beach club underwent a major revamp with renovations by lauded designer Tina Kirschner, who has drastically redesigned the space to embrace a sexier, more tropical feel. The changes include a dedicated bar and lounge area, a deck extension in the restaurant, and a chic palette of beachy tones. Tel. +62 361 8482200 www.karmagroup.com/karma-beach/

CONTEMPORARY COOKING AT LACI BALI Located just a few minutes walk from Echo Beach, Laci Restaurant offers an elevated yet relaxed dining experience. At the helm is celebrated chef and restaurateur Arnold Poernomo whose portfolio includes popular rice bowl joint MangkokKu in Jakarta and the famed Koi Dessert Bar in Sydney. At Laci, Arnold puts a delicious twist on Australian classics, infusing them with Asian tastes and ingredients. Swing by in the morning for coconut hotcakes with tropical fruit or the prawn omelet topped with crispy bonito flakes. Lunch and dinner eats include the signature beef burger and the pork belly with cauliflower purée. Tel. +62 856 9381 7932 www.facebook.com/lacicanggu/

SIPPY SATURDAYS This April, Mrs Sippy redefines the Bali party scene by introducing a special residency to their legendary Sippy Saturdays pool parties. From April 11 to June 2 you can catch exclusive live performances by Australian dance music stars Bag Raiders and Sneaky Sound System. Fresh off the Japan leg of their world tour around Asia, Australia and the US, The Bag Raiders will launch their residency with an Ibizan-style pool party on the Easter long weekend. The party will span two days with special acts to be announced soon. You can catch these dynamic DJs every Saturday at Mrs Sippy from 3pm until late. Doors open at 10am and there is a VIP Lunch experience on offer in the picturesque garden area from 1pm to 5pm. Tel. +62 361 6202022 www.mrssippybali.com 26

Experience the unique atmosphere of the Ayodya Resort Bali with its traditional Balinese architecture, golden sandy beach and an eclectic dining experience. No other hotel embraces Balinese culture as we do.

Ayodya Resort Bali, a Kingdom of Hospitality

NEW COLLECTIONS BY ADIWANA Adiwana Hotels & Resorts recently unveiled two new properties and they’re all sorts of fabulous. Adiwana Bisma is located in the heart of Ubud on charming Jalan Bisma. Key features include artistic rooms that offer views over the surrounding rice fields and jungle and a stunning rooftop infinity pool that has Mount Agung as a backdrop on clear days. Adiwana Warnakali is set on a cliff overlooking the ocean in beautiful Nusa Penida and is the first and only four-star resort on the island. Guests can explore amazing underwater worlds snorkelling the clear waters in front of the resort or visit the Warnakali Dive Center to sign up for PADI courses and scuba diving safaris. www.adiwanahotels.com

Santi Beach Club & Restaurant, Gili Trawangan Escape the hustle and bustle of South Bali at Santi Beach Club, a gorgeous new spot located on a beautiful white sand beach in Gili Trawangan. The beach club is the newest addition to Pondok Santi Estate and it offers up curated soundscapes, artisanal cocktails, and a beachfront restaurant serving contemporary and traditional cuisine. Dip your toes in the sand as you sip on cool beverages and soak up the sun, explore the coral reef just off the private beach, and snack on fresh local seafood, pizzas and grills as you groove to ambient beats. Santi Beach Club is just a short bicycle ride from Gili Trawangan’s main harbour. Tel.+62 819 0705 7504 www.santibeachclub.com

THE GARCIA UBUD Encircled by lush rice fields and tropical greenery, The Garcia Ubud is a stylish sanctuary located just outside Ubud in the peaceful village of Lodtunduh. Each contemporary suite and private pool villa features Balinese touches alongside modern design elements, so you'll find smooth unfinished concrete walls, woven rattan ceilings and customised timber furnishings. Guests can choose from deluxe rooms with rice paddy views, suites that have direct access to the pool, or your own private pool villa with one, two or three bedrooms. The resort also features two sophisticated dining venues, a serene spa, and a dedicated rooftop yoga pavilion. Tel. +62 361 2013779 www.thegarciaubud.com 28

RHYTHM & RUMBLE Rhythm & Rumble was a concept borne from a light bulb moment amongst lifelong friends who had already enjoyed success opening hostels in Bali. They realised that whilst there were various themed hostels, none really catered for the fitness conscientious traveller. They decided to create a space where healthy-minded folks could gather and came up with the unique concept of Rhythm & Rumble, a boutique hostel, MMA gym, surf school and yoga practice all under one roof. Located in Canggu close to popular Echo Beach, this hip and happening space is open to all whether you’re looking for a comfortable place to stay or just want to work out in the Adidas sponsored gym, stretch in the yoga centre, or surf with their highly experienced team. www.rhythmandrumble.com

LA FAVELA COLLECTION It’s been seven years in the making, but the La Favela fashion collection has finally hit the shelves. If you’ve been to this hub of hip vibes in Seminyak, then you know that it’s more than just a restaurant, nightclub and craft cocktail bar. It offers so many experiences to different people, and this ethos translates into their bags and accessories. The team decided to work only with local vendors to sustain ethical production and they searched the island for artisans with whom they could share techniques, opportunities and knowledge. The result is fashion that is much like the space: fluid yet consistent, breathtaking yet relatable, and always on-trend. Tel. +62 361 730603 www.lafavelabali.com

Pod Chocolate Pod Chocolate began in 2010 when Toby Garritt first transformed local Balinese cacao into delicious chocolate in his adopted village of Carang Sari. 10 years later Pod has grown from one small machine to a world class factory where modern European machines meet highly trained chocolatiers to create amazing chocolate. Pod produces over 20 different varieties of chocolate including a range of vegan non-dairy milk and white chocolates together with exquisite dark chocolates and a luscious chocolate-hazelnut spread. Pod’s original and main factories are both open to the public where you can taste all of Toby’s creations and mould your own chocolate bar to take home. Pod’s outlet in Sanur has free tasting as well as a chocolate wheel machine filled with melted chocolatehazelnut spread to taste. Because chocolate always tastes best fresh from the machine. www.podchocolate.com sales@podchocolate.com Tel. +62 361 849 6229 30

SUSTAINABLE SHEET MASKS One of the reasons we love Sensatia Botanicals so much is that this Bali-based natural beauty care brand is constantly coming up with new products that leave you looking and feeling fabulous and are good for the environment. The latest offering is a collection of skin-soothing sheet masks that feature biodegradable VEOCEL™ branded fibres. Each mask is enriched with concentrated serums made from natural extracts to help with common skin conditions like blemishes, dry skin and pigmentation. After one use, skin is left feeling revived, and you can throw the mask away guilt-free knowing that it will naturally decompose back into the earth. www.sensatia.com LUSH LANDSCAPING BY SHL ASIA SHL Asia never fails to impress with their dramatic architectural landscape design that incorporates nature, culture, and cutting-edge lines. Tanadewa Resort & Spa is the latest project by this talented team. Nestled amid rice paddies, jungle and a winding river just outside Ubud, the resort blends into the stunning surroundings with a series of villas and rooms in lush tropical gardens. The SHL team paid homage to the area by preserving native plants and adapting patterns of the architecture to artworks that represent Balinese folk tales. The result is a composition that is contemporary yet represents the heritage and true ambiance of Bali. www.shl.asia

CALLING ALL CARNIVORES Modern Korean steakhouse Si Jin caters to carnivores with an exquisite selection of meats from around the world. South Korean chef Joel Lim Si Jin developed his skills working under world-renowned chef Wolfgang Puck in the Michelin-starred CUT steakhouse in Singapore, then went on to lead teams in opening Akira Back’s restaurants in Singapore, Jakarta and Dubai. At Si Jin he handpicks only the highest quality meats like 30-day aged Picanha 9+, 45-day aged Hokkaido ‘snow’ series, and Tochigi sirloin. Each selection can be grilled at your table on a smokeless grill and paired with sides like the Mt Fuji spinach and pomme puree. Tel. +62 812 3871 3964 www.sijinbali.com BODY SUGARING BY HISUGARS Get that bod beach ready with a sugaring session at HiSugars. Body sugaring is an ancient art of hair removal that uses a sugar paste to remove hair quickly, efficiently and virtually pain-free. How it works is a therapist heats the sugar paste, then cools it by winding the sugar around their hands. Once the sugar is body temperature, the therapist lays it firmly on the skin and quickly removes it by hand. This method keeps follicles intact, minimizes hair breakage, and leaves skin feeling soft and hairless for weeks. HiSugars currently has locations in Batu Belig and Ubud. www.hisugars.com

ALOFT BALI SEMINYAK Brought to us by Marriott International, Aloft Bali Seminyak is the latest accommodation option to open in the heart of Seminyak. Aloft is Marriott’s brand for music enthusiasts and tech-savvy travellers, so expect cutting edge design, plenty of interactive spaces, and lots of live music programming. The hotel boasts 80 stylish rooms featuring airy nine-foot ceilings, plush platform beds and contemporary décor with Balinese touches. Eight rooms also have direct access to a lap pool with stunning views of a tropical hanging garden. Dining and drinking options include rooftop restaurant Kahuna, Re:fuelSM for grab-and-go options, Re:mix lounge, and the edgy WXYZ® bar. www.alofthotels.com TITIK DUA Set to open in March, Titik Dua is an independent boutique hotel showcasing contemporary Indonesian art, design and culture. Located in Peliatan Village just a short drive from Ubud, Titik Dua features 22 custom-designed rooms, a restaurant overlooking the jungle serving modern Asian fare, and a speakeasy-inspired coffee and cocktail bar. Also on site are six multi-purpose spaces and an open-air amphitheatre to accommodate corporate events, wellness retreats, and intimate weddings. In keeping with the hotel’s mission of bringing local creative talent to the global stage, Titik Dua will curate a regular line-up of design-led exhibitions, innovative talks and workshops. Tel. +62 361 975139 www.titikdua.id

TINY TEA PEOPLE Tea connoisseurs will love Tiny Tea People, a new Bali-based artisan tea brand created by two artists with a passion for creating delicious teas. Founders Wai and Ninus have only two rules for their creations: each flavour should give a simple sense of happiness, and the teas should be a vehicle for art and creativity. Most of the ingredients are sourced locally and processed with the utmost care to ensure the highest quality. The collection is currently available online and in select shops around Bali, and it comes in tea bags or loose leaves. Flavours include Strawberry Sappan, Peppermint Fennel, Orange Vanilla, Lemongrass Ginger and Saffron Assam. www.tokopedia.com/tinyteapeople/ 32

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people

Could Paul Ropp be considered one of the original disruptors? I walk into his office to find out the answer to this and a few others ponderings that have been floating around in my head all these years. And, so as to get grounded in the moment and the man, I ask a few interview-style questions to see if these lead to the past being brought into the present: Paul, what was the earliest life lesson you learnt? If it feels good do it. What was the hardest life lesson you learnt? Not practicing what I learnt was wasteful and painful. Who gave you the best advice and what was it? My art teacher. She said to me: "Don’t paint in the corner of the canvas, go for the feeling. Don’t worry about painting over the edge of the canvas. Go for the feeling." What is the best advice you give yourself? Better today than yesterday, better tomorrow than today, better and better in every way. Any daily mantras? That was it! If you met a 20-year-old person what would you say to him or her? Enjoy five years of being lost. Anything in your life you would have done differently? [Huge pause] Yeah, not getting in trouble with the law as a teenager… A realization that learning was not as important to me as practicing what I had already learnt. Any famous quotes that you live by… (some people do, some people don’t). Well . . . one of mine. 'If you ever have a panic attack at night go outside, look at the stars and realise that intergalactically your problem is insignificant, don't worry about it.' If you hosted a dinner party, who (alive or dead) would you invite? The people who have helped me attain the stature I have today and get to enjoy; the people who make me laugh the most, and the ones that asked nothing and gave everything.

A couple of Russians (with shops in Russia, Ibiza and beyond, are looking to “Paul Ropp” their retail spaces) flit in and out with questions about fabric, orders and deliveries. Noting that we aren’t nearly finishing our conversation the magic word of 'lunch' rings out around the showroom. A cue for the Russians to depart stage left and for us to move to Métis, Paul’s goto place for lunch, it’s either here or Frangipani Café at The Oberoi Bali. PR is all about the lifestyle, quality and service. We sit and order, and move into the past: an unfortunate childhood with irresponsible parents. At some point he was placed into care. Too young and on the street he did not favour school, and in fact throughout his life he found that whilst learning was secondary in his book, education was key and as a young man he went to as many seminars, services, talks and symposiums as possible to hear some of the original disruptors: Osho, Mukthananda, even Scientology . . . always looking to extrapolate as much as possible. Here he mentions, “Perception is good, but only if you put it into projection”. I muse . . . see and create, or see to create? He continues on with education and expectations. “Don’t go where they tell you to go, go where you want to go. Go where you want to be, something and someone will find you.” Moving on up into adult years: after amassing a fortune by single-handedly cornering a huge percentage of the rolling paper market, he took five years off and whilst he got lost, he also lost his fortune. Living the high life, literally. Bali brought the disruptor slightly back onto the rails and after meeting Susanna Perinni, who then went on to found Bali’s beloved Biasa, he settled down and had a family. He himself started Paul Ropp – "fashion for people who’d prefer to be naked” . . . disrupting the norm yet again. Moving on through our meal we come to dessert, and I find he no longer disrupts quite as much … he has mellowed, has nothing to prove and in fact now advocates and mediates with his “resolved, dissolved” philosophy. He has become a problem auditor. “Humanity likes to make things complicated, I like to help people find a compromise and then a resolution.” A little social revolution happening right there.

As we wind up the meal, all frightfully healthy as I am on detox and Paul has to mind what he eats, he once again seemingly flips the bird to health and doctor's orders as the Métis staff place a portion of chocolate profiteroles in front of him. A Do you ever repair the delicate, overworn PR garments? new, beautifully crafted, chocolate fondant dessert that the One of the greatest editors that I ever had the pleasure of working with, fashion icon Diana Veerland, think (Harper’s Bazaar manager has asked him to try also appears. If approved it goes on the menu. “Don’t wait for life,” he says, “Go create and Vogue magazine) and her quote which I really value is: “Who expects fashion to last forever?” But yes, clients do come your own story. Express yourself,” he says, tucking in. in with an occasional Paul Ropp garment and get this or that seam or collar repaired, and of course we mend it at no cost. www.paulropp.com

the yak SITS DOWN WITH BALI ICON PAUL ROPP TO TALK LIFE, LEGACIES AND LETTING GO. Image: Robert Rosen.

fashion father ropp.

people

Such a pleasure to meet you, but can we get down to the nitty-gritty? Of course. It was so lovely to meet you, too! Please introduce yourself. My name is Cindy Cowan and I am a film and TV producer living in Los Angeles. Three labels by people that judge you... Gosh I don't know. Tenacious, driven, world traveler... Three labels by people that love you… Generous, kind, always there for the people I love. Pinnacles of your career at 20? At 30? After 40? In my 20s I graduated college, wrote my first song that went Top 10 throughout Europe and started my company – IEG – that went on to produce, finance and distribute films. In my 30s, my career hit a high. My company bought, financed and produced over 25 films. We won numerous awards and I really made a name for myself in Hollywood. I lectured at film schools and started to become very charitable, realizing that I loved to give back. In my 40s, I sold my company and bought my dream house. I retired and became west coast chair of Little Kids Rock, a 100% non-profit charity that gives musical instruments to kids in under-served areas across the United States. Currently over 500,000 kids have been taught music and given the opportunity to learn the arts by attending after-school programs free of charge. I also went on the board of numerous other charities, developed my love of travel and helping people around the world in any way I can. In my 50s, I am back in the film and TV world. Looking forward to two movies going into production this year with Sony Studios as well as some other TV and film announcements. I am also going on the board of a beauty company, one of my passions, and will be joining forces with some new charities. What were you doing in Bali when I met you? My dream was to always go to Bali, but for some reason every time I planned it, someone changed my destination. This year, I couldn't wait to make this dream come true. I took three weeks off to really see all the different sides of this beautiful place. We started out in East Bali and did water sports, went to an elephant sanctuary, traveled to Ubud, got blessed, saw waterfalls, temples, did sound baths and stayed at some of the most beautiful resorts. Then we brought in the New Year in Seminyak, where we shopped, dined on delicious

food and even attended Burning Man Bali. It was all fabulous! What do you intend to do in Bali the next time I meet you? I am doing a show called Seekers. It is about seeking the light in a world going dark. Bali is so spiritual. I want to come back and film some of the amazing things I learned about or personally experienced when I was there. It is so rich with tradition that we in America know nothing about. I can't wait to bring it to the screen so that others can gain knowledge about the beliefs of people on this side of the world. Name one of the almost insurmountable peaks that you climbed (career or mountain)? I was one of the first female distributors in my business. It was totally a male-dominated industry. It felt good to be a pioneer and help break this barrier. Please expand on your next global cinematographic venture? My next film is a real-life horror film that I am producing with Screen Gems/Sony. It is based on the first exorcism televised in the' 70s and what happened to the family after the cameras turned off. This was before the movie The Exorcist came out and the only ghost was Casper, so people didn't really know about supernatural occurrences. It is one of the scariest stories I have heard. We will be filming this in South Africa in a few months. What part of your career are your parents most proud of? I think they are very proud that I went off on my own, started the company I spoke about earlier and sold it for such a profit when I did. I also hope that they are proud of the daughter they raised. What part of your career are you most proud of? Getting Woman of the Year by the WIN awards was very special. You do things in life never really expecting others to recognize you for it, so this really touched me. Also getting Humanitarian of the Year in 2019 was incredibly special to me. I want to leave my footprint when I go, so this award meant a lot. I live my life trying to make a difference in someone's life every day. Giving back makes me happy. Are you woman first, brain second? Or brain first, woman second? Funny . . . I answer this question differently now. When I was young and starting out, I was brain first.

I had a lot to prove and anything else came second. After I sold my company though, all that changed. I am now definitely a woman first, I am proud to be a girl. And a successful one at that! My femininity is important to me, it's one of the reasons I retired when I did. I wanted to regain my female values. Now my life is balanced. Hollywood is known for being cut-throat. Do you know any pirates? A ton of them . . . but none I want to call out here. Your favorite movies are…? Schindler's List, Shawshank Redemption, Life is Beautiful and Silence of the Lambs. [While we're here we'd like to let you know Cindy's company IEG won an Emmy nomination for Rent-A-Kid starring Leslie Nielsen; Emmy, Golden Globe and People's Choice nominations for If These Walls Could Talk; a United Nations Award for Savior starring Dennis Quaid; and Oscar-winning Traffic starring Michael Douglas]. Your main influence was…? It depends on which part of my life we are speaking of. My mother, for my zest for life. My father, for my work ethic. Sherry Lansing, as a woman ahead of her time, paving the way for other women to follow. What are the steps to take that make a dream career come true? Honestly, just doing it! So often people just speak about what they want to do but don't take any steps to achieve it. You just have to put all your fears aside and start taking those steps: read, learn, intern. Just be around as many people as you can in the field you want to go into. Live it, dream it . . . do it! If you believe you can achieve. Born again, what would you like to be able to conquer/change? The climate. I really believe the world is in a very bad place right now and we are heading for disaster. If I could be born again and conquer anything it would be finding a way to save our planet. Lastly, Bali, it was your first time ... what did you take away from your visit? I loved everything about Bali, from the kindness of all of the people to the wonderful food, the beautiful scenery, some of the best resorts in the world, and especially the spiritual connections. I can't wait to come back. You will definitely see me again, soon.

The Yak interviews Cindy Cowan, a random Bali tourist who just happens to have financed a film that won four Oscars. make up and photo by troy jensen.

people

Sukma, what’s it like doing business in Bali as an Indonesian woman? Of course it’s very challenging. Creating a successful business is hard anywhere but even more so in Bali and again even more so if you are a woman. You have to be tough to run a business here in order to deal with the ups and downs. It’s fun but can also be scary sometimes, and I’m often pumped with adrenaline and then so happy when I solve a big problem or do great work for a client. It’s also important to me that my business is in Indonesia, because it means I can directly contribute to my country. I love paying taxes! Growing up – what advice did your mother and father give you that you found useful later in life? My dad told me three things. Be honest. Be useful. Get a good education. He taught me these three values from a very young age. He would say: “Always be honest to yourself and to others, wherever you are, and everything will work out for you.” He also taught me that your worth in this world depends on how much you can contribute. He said: “Be useful, otherwise you might as well not exist.” He wanted me to do something meaningful and valuable with my life, where I can help not just myself but also everyone around me. And of course, education is incredibly important if you want to get on. I could not do what I do today without studying hard and learning new things. That my dad valued education so much drove me to finish a master’s degree and I still read daily even now. You left home when you were 14 to pursue your independence … how did your parents react when you told them you wanted to leave? Yes, I wanted to leave and go out into the world. The village in Sumbawa where I grew up is beautiful and the people are lovely, but there are not many opportunities. So by the time I was 14 I had made up my mind. I was going to leave and I thought, “If I am going to leave anyway, why not right now?” So I tried to speak with my dad even though I already knew the answer. I said: “Papa please, I want to talk to you but you must first promise not to get angry.” He promised. And of course he had to break the promise, he was so shocked when I told him I wanted to leave. We are both very strong willed and didn’t want to find a compromise. I said: “If you let me go, I promise I will be a good student, always pay attention and get good grades. If I have to stay here, I don’t want to go to school anymore!” He said: “OK! Better stay here and be stupid then.” So I said: “If you don’t let me go, I will be so sad that I won’t eat anything anymore.” And he said: “OK! Don’t eat then. But stay here!” This went on for a while and we couldn’t find a compromise, but I was still determined. So I decided to just run away when he was on a business trip. He was heartbroken but then forced to negotiate. Luckily he has forgiven me for that and we now have a very close relationship. He is my best friend and greatest adviser until this day. I love him, I want to make him happy and proud of me. How did it shape who you are today? I learned independence and that I can rely on myself to find a solution to any problem. That’s a very valuable asset in my business because my clients often come to me with big problems that I have to help them fix. I also learned courage. I mean it was a big step to just run away, but it took even more courage to not quit and just go home. I faced so many challenges living on my own that were really scary and overwhelming at the time. Going to the hospital by myself when I was sick, managing my own money, building a life in a new city … I learned a lot and I learned that I can take on anything.

hotel industry in Bali. I met my business partner Alex for the first time when I was out with my girlfriends. After he realized that I was very familiar with how business works here, he started asking me for advice and we shared knowledge often. He’s a super smart guy and it was fun to be able to work with him. In the end he suggested we start a consulting business together, but I refused. I was happy with my job and life at the time. He was persistent though and in the end he convinced me that we could test each other and that we could test the business. We started to do some pro bono consulting for our friends and they became our first clients. They also referred us to other companies and our business took off fast. We were growing so quickly, it was exhilarating. I had no choice but to take a chance, leave my job and focus on Actual Synergy full time in 2017. Now we do finance and HR consulting, legal and taxes, management set up, training and recruitment for some of Bali’s leading companies. What does Actual Synergy do differently to other business consulting and accounting firms in Bali? We have a strong company culture; our clients are like our best friends or even like family to us. Their business is our business. Their problems are our problems. We listen closely and we have a very personal approach to both consulting and all our other services. We are a high tech company with very streamlined processes, so we can spend less time on administration and paperwork and more focus on client’s need and direct interaction with our clients. I believe that each business is unique, and so are the issues and problems they face. What are the biggest growth areas today for business in Bali? The hospitality industry and everything related to it. The safest bet is accommodation. If you have property, open a hotel, build villas, even guesthouses, it’s currently almost impossible to fail. F&B is also growing fast, but much harder to get right. So unless you really know what you are doing, we advise against it. When you first meet clients are they surprised to discover that you’re the boss of a business consulting firm? Yes, sometimes it’s funny. New clients that come to us for the first time often keep asking “No, I want to talk to Sukma!”, because they think I’m just the secretary. They underestimate me until they work with me and see how good I am at what I do. So yes, it’s a challenge. We have many clients who are not sure if they can trust me at first, because I’m so young and don’t look like a typical business owner. The solution is actually easy, we just let our results speak for themselves. Sometimes we even say “let us do our work, you can pay later”. And they pay happily because our results are always the best you can get in Bali. What drives you to succeed in business? I want to be useful. Like my dad taught me my whole life. I want to be of use to my people and then I want to contribute to society and the world. That’s the most important thing for me. And of course I want to make and enjoy money, have a good, comfortable and fun life without depending on anyone’s help for it! What do you do when you are not working? I meet my close friends, go to the gym and I take hip hop dance classes. I also read and meditate a lot. When I have the time I love to enjoy and explore Bali, find new beaches and waterfalls. It’s such a beautiful place and I cannot imagine living anywhere else. www.actual-synergy.com

Tell us about your company Actual Synergy, how it started and what it does? It kind of happened by accident. Before I started Actual Synergy I was working in the 44

problem solver Sukma Nirmala Latief brings love and determination as the boss of one of bali's leading business consulting companies. words: tony stanton. Image: ryerson anselmo for costes portrait.

"our results speak for themselves."

causes veterinary paramedic Femke den Haas haS been fighting animal cruelty in indonesia for nearly two decades. finally the tide is turning. words: ozlem esen mell. photo: pepe arcos.

not all heroes wear capes.

Femke, how long have you been in Indonesia and how did you end up here? I came to visit my parents in Jakarta when I was 17 on a break from school, then continued my travels to the East Kalimantan Orangutan Rehabilitation project where I volunteered for six months. I returned to Indonesia in 2002 after I was invited to get involved in the setting up of Indonesia’s first wildlife centre, which eventually became a network of six. At that time I thought I would stay for a year maybe, but here I am. The work we did at that time was much needed and I felt very useful. What is Jakarta Animal Aid Network (JAAN)? How did it start? After I set up the rescue centre network I realised there was a need for an organization that could effect real change. I’d come to realise that although there were many animal aid organisations, none of them really worked together, with everyone wanting to be the captain … which is why the ships kept sinking, or in my case, why there was a lack of coordination in helping to protect animals. I wanted to set up an organisation that would work as a proper network, connecting people and organisations to stand together to tackle the major issues we are facing – animal welfare and the illegal wildlife trade – through direct animal rescue operations, through education, through lobbying the decision-makers and, when needed, through protest. JAAN now works throughout Indonesia and on an international level with #CombatWildlifeCrime, fighting habitat loss and animal cruelty. We run programs and rescue operations that include raptor and eagle rehabilitation and release in the Thousand Islands, dancing monkey rescue and rehabilitation in Bandung and Jember, sea turtle protection in Flores and other operations in Sumatra and Jakarta. We also have a dog rescue centre in Jakarta set up by my colleagues and co-founders, but I mainly concentrate on the wildlife division @wildlifeaidnetwork. We are supported in Europe by wildlifewatchdogs.com How have attitudes to what you do changed in Indonesia from when you arrived here? Standing up for animals was something that was completely new to this country when I first arrived. Animal Welfare wasn’t understood and most people didn’t take me seriously. The animals we confiscated from the illegal wildlife trade would often end up back on the market due to corruption. Wildlife was seen as a product to provide an income for the country – when we set up our first rescue center next to the international airport, animals that were being smuggled wouldn’t be confiscated and dealers would get away with just a ‘fine’. It was also extremely hard to get any financial and technical support for the work we did. We were receiving all kinds of animals, including species I never even knew existed. It was all DIY. I had to treat them, with the team working around the

clock to keep the very fragile victims of the illegal wildlife trade alive and healthy on very limited resources. As a veterinary paramedic I could provide medical care for confiscated animals but I learned so much in the field in those years because I had no choice but to do it all myself. There was no one else. I sought advice from people all over the world about how to care for the different and special animals in our centres in order to ensure their wellbeing. We had a small team, all locals, all super dedicated but with no background in animal husbandry. But we did it, we relocated crocodiles, we released eagles, we treated snakes … now we have a huge network of local volunteers and people from as far as Papua report to us about animal abuse, or animals traded. People are rising up. Animal welfare is important in Indonesia, and has now been recognized by the government as a priority. What is the one thing in Indonesia you would change if you had the power? I would build ethical tourism in areas where the forests are now being cut and destroyed. These forests are so pristine, so beautiful and so full of life they are the best assets for this country. People from far and wide will want to visit and learn about the endemic and beautiful animals that live within. Instead of allowing companies to run riot and destroy these forests and wipe out whole eco systems for their profit, the country should keep them intact. In the long run this would really benefit the surrounding communities and the animals that live within the forests. How did you make the transition from loving and wanting to help animals to becoming a woman who lives her life serving them? I can’t stand injustice. I always felt like I wanted to take action and once I realised that what I do is making a positive change, it became my life. Do you think part of the problem is the idea that most people are unaware or desensitized to the fact that animals feel pain, loneliness and isolation when in captivity? Why does it continue? Yes that’s precisely the problem. People lack compassion, people don’t realise that what’s happening affects us all, even if it is indirectly. When I see an animal, or a human suffering, and can reach out to help … why would I not do that? What does an average week look like for Femke? I have no average week. My agenda changes by the hour as we respond to animals in need. Tell us about some of the most heartbreaking / heartwarming rescues you have been involved in. We have done so many rescues in extreme and amazing situations … I can share a few:

The first birds we rescued back in 2004 while at the newly founded rescue center next to the airport in Jakarta were being smuggled out of the country inside PVC pipes. These young Brahminy kites were heading to Saudi Arabia and fortunately we had the chance to nurse them back to health and release them after a long period of intensive care and rehabilitation. Seeing them soaring the skies was beautiful and the start of our long-term eagle rehabilitation program through which we rehabilitate the endangered mascot of Jakarta, the Brahminy kite (Haliastur Indus). In 2014 we received a plaque of honour from the President for our work in protecting the Brahminy kites of Kotok Island. Siamangs also have a special place in my heart as they are highly intelligent primates and very sensitive. Sadly, people like to keep the babies as pets and will kill the mother to obtain the young. The babies often get shot at and have air rifle pellets in their bodies … we always have to check all babies for pellets and often surgery is required. Once we rescued an older male I called Grandpa. He had been captive for so many years in a small cage and his face looked so grim and so depressed. I would walk him daily in the center, where we had a few trees he tried to climb. When he finally managed to climb up, he looked at me very proudly as if to say, ‘I am a Siamang gibbon again, thank you’. I will never forget that look on his face. With the support of then Governor, now president, Joko Widodo, we managed to ban dancing monkeys in Jakarta and through the years we have rescued over 250 of them. The first mask I took off a monkey’s face felt like a huge victory and we are very proud that we could stop this brutality. At the Melka Hotel in Bali, six dolphins were kept under horrific conditions to allow tourists to swim with them. It’s quite obvious that all dolphins in captivity suffer tremendously, as they are kept in chlorinated water and are starved to perform and do tricks and entertain people. They also have their teeth removed, which means they cannot survive in the wild. For many years we collected evidence about the poor treatment of these dolphins at the hotel, and after the death of a dolphin named Gombloh the authorities requested us to relocate those remaining. With my greatest supporter the Dolphin Project we relocated the dolphins to a large sea pen, where they now thrive. This project is very new and the dolphins are now undergoing rehabilitation. Being able to lift them out of those chlorinated swimming pools and return them to their home, the ocean, was an amazing feeling for everyone involved. www.jakartaanimalaid.co

people milennials ... tsuk. tony stanton talks to mel palummo about bali, being young and making the right choices. PHOTO: ryerson anselmo for costes portrait.

"I am very clear on what I value in life."

Mel, how did you first come to know Bali, and what brought you back here? My friend Jesse, who I met in Sydney's Manly where I’m from, moved here a few years back. He had been trying to get me over here for a while because he felt I would do really well here. I never considered it seriously though as my main focus was my studies, but when I finally finished and worked on getting my business going I was constantly met with the challenge of wanting to live a balanced life and falling short. I tried a few ways, like working at night in a bar so I could work on my business during the day … to working full time in the day and trying to work my business around that, but I always found myself struggling with money and time. Early last year Jesse booked me to shoot a campaign for his sunglasses brand Enki, which is when I started to look at maybe staying in Bali long term. When I finally came out here I fell in love. The excitement in possibility grew, which I knew meant I was on the right path. So I decided to save some money, sell everything and give it a crack.

nine to five? Go out on the weekends and write myself off, then feel shit for three days trying to recover?” I understood then that there has to be more to life. At the time I was only 24 and I had a really good job managing a cardboard recycling company. I was earning good coin, I was in a great relationship with my partner. Things were going really well for me, but I still didn't feel satisfied. That question burned inside of me and led me down a path that I never knew existed. I became obsessed with understanding the nature of reality and my purpose for being here. I read books and watched videos on a vast range of subjects, from quantum physics to conspiracy theories to spiritual mastery. I began to become aware of the power of the mind and found happiness in other activities that were largely to do with self-healing. I studied a variety of healing modalities such as shamanism, crystals, energy healing, mediumship and tarot but realised that everything we experience and want in life starts in the mind. And so I studied meditation and then transpersonal coaching.

You look of mixed heritage, what’s the story? My father is Italian and my mother is Filipino but I was born and raised in Australia. They met in the Philippines whilst my dad was on holiday.

Do you still use what you learned? Yes, every day. I used to live in such a victimised mentality and struggled with depression and suicide for many years. I've changed a lot as a person since then and live a much happier and fulfilled life. When you become aware of this power that you hold within, you become addicted to knowing more of who you are and what you’re capable of. To see your limitations and grow beyond them is an incredible feat and so satisfying. I still have days where I'm emotional and reactive but it’s increasingly less and less. Life is whatever you imagine it to be and imagination is limitless, so everyday I push myself to dream bigger because I know that something magical and extraordinary is just around the corner.

What was it like growing up in Australia and being part Asian and European? For the most part, people were pretty accepting and nonjudgmental. I struggled mostly with my parents as their value and belief systems were still strongly rooted in their countries of origin. Do you think racism is stronger in Australia than, say, Bali? I personally see more racism in Bali than I do in Australia, but maybe if I grew up near or with an aboriginal community it might have been different. In Bali I really notice two worlds colliding. A traditional village mentality and a western mentality. It saddens me to hear people being put down when they haven't even tried to understand the culture they are coexisting with. That is why it is so important for me to learn the language and traditions of the Balinese people, out of respect and appreciation for what their culture brings to the planet and our human family. We hear you studied meditation and coaching … how did that happen? The journey was sparked from a single moment. I remember walking out to my car one morning to go to work. I was feeling dusty from the weekend when a thought stopped me in my tracks. "Is this what the rest of my life is going to be like? Work Monday to Friday,

What’s wrong with today’s Milennials? What’s right with them? This is such a huge subject to cover! I'll try my best to keep it succinct. Being a Millennial has its challenges but also advantages. Most prominently, we have been born into a time of great technological advancements and continue to grow with them. However I observe that there is even a big difference between people born in the ’80s and people born in the ‘90s due to the fact that technology is advancing so quickly. In my eyes I consider myself lucky for being born in the ’80s as I didn't experience mobile phones and internet usage until I was in my teens. The only kind of technology I was exposed to was TV and the Atari. Social media only came on to the scene through MSN chat and Myspace when I was about 14, so the way I connected with people was still mostly face to face. I am grateful for this because it taught me valuable

interpersonal skills. If I wanted to talk to someone, I would have to meet with them, showing up as I am without the pressure of meeting the expectations of an internet identity. My community was limited to people I had immediate contact with and so if I wanted to meet new people I would have to go out to bars, clubs etc. or I would have to have the courage to go up to someone on the street or cafe and start a conversation. Now we can construct whatever identity we wish to share with the world. We are inundated with information, and societal expectations and advertising bombards our senses through our phones, watches, TV advertising screens and billboards. It has become so normal to be constantly stimulated that I feel people are losing touch with what it is that truly makes them happy. I feel this is directly linked to the rise of anxiety and depression within our society because people are being swept away in the information current and don't know how to swim. In saying that there is the other side of the coin. We are more connected with each other, information on any subject is available in just a few clicks in many formats and creativity abounds, making it easier for us to learn and grow and make informed choices. How do you spend your time when you get to choose what you do? I am very clear on what I value in life and so my choices revolve around this. Every day is a little different depending on what I’ve got going on but generally I map out my goals for the year at the beginning of each year and have some sort of routine. My daily non-negotiables are generally exercise or moving my body in some way, meditating, journaling, spending time in nature and getting a good amount of sleep. I have a list that I tick off every day and I make room for fun activities, adventures to new places, travel, time alone, time with my partner and activities that make me feel nourished … like learning something new, massages, chats with family or friends or sharing a nice meal with someone. What is the trait you most deplore in others? That's a tough one. Close mindedness? The inability to even try to see another person’s perspective. On what occasion do you lie? To save someone from feeling hurt or uncomfortable. I'm working on that! Mel, thanks so much for your time! Love and good vibes to you at The Yak.

duoview kate wood's innovative and environmentally conscious approach to product design has hit a chord in trendy berawa. The Yak spoke to partners Pim Gietelink and dina daly. image: ryerson Anselmo for costes portrait.

Kate Wood as a brand has made a positive and immediate impact on the retail scene in Bali, were you expecting things to go so well from the very beginning? Pim: Thanks for the compliment. We looked for a location where we could stand out and built a shop that represented the creativity of the brand. It is not an “A-List” location or even in a main shopping street, so I didn’t expect an instant success. But thanks to Dina and her network, the shop got the right exposure and traffic arrived almost immediately. Dina: Thank you again for your compliment and of course for the huge support of The Yak. We put a lot of effort and patience into building our store. It took us almost a year until we finally opened in May 2019. A few months later, we received a lot of attention and interest from the media, beachclubs and buyers. Where does the company name come from, and what do you think about brand names in general in this day and age? What works and what doesn’t work… Pim: Kate Wood, named after my daughter, was created out of a desire to build a legacy I could pass on to future generations. Many brands and shops are generic, so we try to create a unique shopping experience. Dina: Nowadays, there are many brands and choices, but unfortunately the concept and idea is not always fully thought through. We didn't come to this right away either but now we can clearly say that Kate Wood is a lifestyle brand. Almost everyone who works here uses KW products in their personal lives. We didn't just design to sell it to you, we designed it to use it ourselves. What is your most popular product in Bali, and how does that compare with your store in Shanghai? Pim: The most popular product that people look at is the bamboo bicycle. It is like a magnet that attracts people into the shop. The best-selling products are the sunglasses, watches and phone cases. And that is exactly the same situation with our shop in Shanghai. Dina: As Pim mentioned, our sunglasses are just flying off the shelves in Bali. We have

received so many compliments. Now we sell our glasses in almost all areas of the island. Why did you choose Berawa as the location for your second KW outlet? Pim: In 2018 we were considering either Saigon or Bali for the next flagship store. I have been living in Shanghai since 2007 and was looking for the next place where I could live, produce products and have a store. After Dina did some research in Bali and checked many locations we thought this island presented the best opportunities. Dina: We choose Berawa as it was (and still is) up and coming and it had some interesting and affordable places available. We thought it would be the perfect place to build an inviting shop that would stand out against other stores in the area. How would you define the Kate Wood brand? Pim & Dina: We are a socially-conscious business featuring handcrafted items made from renewable resources. Each item is unique due to the structure of the wood and bamboo, and from those materials we create lightweight and comfortable products for people who value beauty and quality. We forgot to ask: where are you both from and what are your backgrounds? Pim: I was born in Amsterdam and I studied at Hotelschool The Hague. So initially I worked in hotels and hospitality. Then in 2007 I was hired by a company that sells corporate promotional products and my job was to manage the design and production in China. Then in 2010 I started my own company and brand and I just followed up on products and styles I liked. I had to learn step-by-step and started with just a small sunglasses collection. Nothing spectacular. But during that time, I learned a lot about how to improve the quality and learn from my mistakes. Dina: I am from Russia, moved to Shanghai in April 2012. Even though I have three degrees in Mechanical Engineering and Economics, I chose to work in the hospitality industry. When I arrived in Shanghai I studied International Hospitality at College Les Roches and I gained valuable experience working as a

manager and General Manager at several restaurants in Shanghai for the next six years. My career was growing fast and I was proud of my success. In 2017 my life and profession changed completely when I joined the Kate Wood team. This began a new chapter for me and I love the creativity involved and being able to build the brand from the ground up. There have been other wooden product brands, what sets you apart from the competition do you think? Pim: When I started the company, I was also producing for other brands and we still do so for some private labels. Little by little Kate Wood has grown as a brand and I think what sets us apart is that we offer a complete concept with many products instead of specializing on one range of say, watches. The bamboo bicycle is iconic and is a product that other “wooden” brands don’t have. Recently we started collaboration with Kayu Surfboards who are specialized in producing unique lightweight wooden boards. What’s your most ambitious product, in terms of design and build? Pim & Dina: That would be the world’s first bamboo electric fat tyre bike. This is like the Range Rover of bamboo bicycles. It has a six-speed Shimano gear system to help you conquer those snowy mountaintops and a lithium powered electric boost for when you want to cruise on sandy beaches. Do you design all KW products yourself? Pim & Dina: Yes, we do the design and manage the production ourselves. Creativity comes from daily life. Dina and I spend most of the time in one of the shops. And by talking with people you get important feedback. We’re proud of what Kate Wood has become, and we look forward to extending the brand even further. www.katewood.com

artscene

stranger in paradise reine paradis puts the wack into wacky with her potty pop art, formed out of a guerilla mindset in the wild wild west.

Reine, we’ve seen your work described as “the surreal holiday we never took” … does that get close to summing up what you try to create? It always makes me smile when I read that line. Who wouldn’t want to go on a surreal holiday, right? How much is LA a part of your work? I moved to LA in 2012 and this is when I started developing my photo series. I was very inspired by my new surroundings and it’s definitely very present in my work. Day glo plexiglass, bold plastic costumes, origami animals … these reoccur in your work … is there a central theme here or are you just dealing with surrealism and form and color? Everything that surrounds me is a source of inspiration however I am naturally drawn to bright colors, very simple shapes, toys, minimalist architecture and the light in California … so all those elements are part of my work. Your production seems firmly gonzo, in that you don’t seem to worry too much about getting permission to shoot at locations. Has this ever caused you problems? Shooting without permission has its benefits, but you are always at the mercy of the situation. The danger is enhanced when the locations are more difficult to access such as buildings’ roofs, ski chair lifts, billboards, an airport runway … but that intensity comes out in the images and I love it. A good example of that is when we photographed the “Billboard” scene. It was shot on top of an actual billboard on the side of a very busy road in California. It was really risky and intense to

climb on top of it to install the whole scene and even more difficult to get the shot just right … all without getting caught. The performance is truly something that I enjoy.

to watch the documentary Queen of Paradis coming out on Amazon Prime March 6th. Right now I’m based in Los Angeles, where I work and live with my husband (and director) Carl Lindstrom.

How do you work from start to finish? Presumably there’s an idea first … and then how do you follow it through? For each scene, the process is the same: first I imagine a scene, then I create a maquette that I use as a reference throughout the whole process. I design the props, costumes, and origami, then I shoot the scene in a real location. Because I imagine all the scenes before shooting it’s often challenging to find the real locations. Sometimes I have to spend a lot of time scouting before finding the perfect spot. It’s a big part of the process.

Have you been surprised by the positive reaction to your work? It must be so hard to stand out against everything else on offer online … I am very thankful for the positive response and I am very grateful to have the opportunity to share my work around the world.

Having seen your work and the ‘making of’ trailer for the feature documentary Queen of Paradis on your series Midnight, we get the impression you don’t really like being told what to do! Where does that come from? Sometimes when people approach me while shooting they come from a place where they have been used or lied to in the past. If there is a problem I always talk honestly with them and share with them what I’m doing. After that, usually people are very friendly and even helpful. It’s part of the surrealistic nature of the whole situation. What did it take for you to get from a life in rural France to becoming an artist in South Central LA, where you’re now living? You mean my whole life?! For that answer you’ll have

Tell us about your perfume … why make a perfume? Last year I collaborated with the French perfume house Ex Nihilo to create a new fragrance called “Lust in Paradise”. I always wanted to create my own fragrance and Ex Nihilo is my favorite perfume brand. It was a dream come true to work on this project. The scent is very solar, like a skin warmed by the Californian sun combined with some more woody notes. I’m obsessed with it. What are your working on next? I am at the moment working on my new photo series Mars and I am also working on a new TV series project which I am very excited about. Where do you see yourself in five years’ time? I will still be doing what I love the best . . . art! Reine, many thanks for your time. www.reineparadis.com

picnic.

artscene this page: runway. right: the escape.

culture vulture

recreating old bali and right, the man at work.

photographer stephan kotas works with a hundred-yearold camera to produce complex works that bring the past alive.

Stephan, where on earth did you find a wet plate camera and what sparked your interest in this process? I found the camera in Europe. It's about 100 years old and it's made from mahogany. It’s a very simple device, basically just a dark box with a lens. I had been shooting digital for more than 10 years and didn't really care much about the history of photography or old techniques, but when I first came across the wet plate collodion process I was immediately amazed. The results are so beautiful and different from any other photographic technique. What struck me the most was that you can see

the image come alive right in front of your eyes. It's like magic. It's one of a very few techniques where you can produce a positive image straight from the camera: there is no negative and each image is a one-of-a-kind object of art. More like a painting, actually. The process is fully hands on and involves working in a humid darkroom filled with chemical odor – about as far away as you can get from sitting comfortably in a cafe with your laptop. Forget film, we’re talking about a technology that is seriously old … there must be some technical issues for you using it in 2020… The wet plate collodion process dates back to 1851 and the very dawn of photography. Back then taking photographs, or ‘light painting’ as it was called, was the discipline of a very small

number of people. They weren't photographers or artists really, but inventors, chemists and scientists. Interestingly enough, the very first images, which are now almost 170 years old, still look the same as if they were taken yesterday. So yes, there are a few technical issues! This is a pure chemical process and nobody really makes photographic chemicals anymore, especially in Indonesia. I had to learn to mix my own chemicals, and re-make old formulas to match the tropical climate. I’m pretty sure I am the first ever photographer to successfully practice this technique in Indonesia. How long do your subjects need to sit for a shot? The wet plate film is very slow, which means its sensitivity to light is very low compared to 57

culture vulture

a recent glimpse into the past from stephan kotas.

modern cameras. Because of that the exposure times are also much longer. When you look at old images you can see that the people's poses are very stiff. That's because they had to hold still for a long time. The exposure depends on light conditions. I shoot mostly with sunlight and it can vary from few seconds to about 20 seconds and even up to a minute. It's hard for the model as well, and it’s not easy to get a sharp image. One of the unique things about wet plate film is that it only reacts to the UV light spectrum, which is why the images have a different look. The film reads colors differently. For example yellow is very dark and red becomes black. There is no light meter for UV light so you have to guess the length of exposure. It takes experience. Tell us about the chemical process and how you go from shooting an image to producing a print? First of all, before every shoot I need to mix all my chemical solutions. That's a process on its own and you need to learn chemistry and lab safety. During the shoot itself there are several steps: first I take an aluminium plate and pour it with a mix of collodion and salts. Then I put the coated plate into a solution of silver nitrate. It's the combination of these two chemicals that creates a light sensitive material, the liquid film. From now on I need to work in the darkroom only under safe light. This film needs to stay wet (therefore wet plate) throughout the whole process until development otherwise no image will appear. That's one of the reasons why it's so hard to shoot in a tropical climate. After sensitising I put the film into the plate holder,

place it in the camera and make an exposure (you need to have your model, framing, lighting etc. prepared beforehand). Then I rush back to the darkroom where I pour it with developer - that's when you start seeing an image appearing on the plate. I have to stop the development in time to avoid overdeveloping it. After that I put it into a fixer solution to wash off the unexposed silver. Then the plate needs to be washed in clean water and dried. It is then dried and I still need to do varnishing. That's the final coating of the image to seal it off from air. After that the image will stay as it is for hundreds of years. Do you have any friends who are Milennials? This must blow their mind … Ha yes, whenever someone who is shooting on film comes to my studio they realize that analog just isn't old school enough. How long did it take you to reach this point in your art, and where did you start? It took me around three years to learn and successfully produce wet plate images here in Bali. I started by attending a few workshops in Europe and also learnt from the internet and vintage books from 19th century. They are the best source of information but written in old funny language with some weird chemical units such as 'drachms' and 'grains'. It's been a really long and complicated journey. Why do you do it? For me it has become an obsession. There were many times I wanted to give up. The chemicals didn’t work, the image wouldn't come up, or it would disappear after a few

hours... It really is a lifelong journey. I am still at the very beginning. What are you looking for in your subjects? It is different every time. But with wet plate I focus on cultural and ethnic portraits with traditional costumes and classic portraits for private people. Somehow this form seems to suit traditional Bali … Yes I totally agree. That's one of the reasons I really wanted to make it happen. It makes my subjects look as if they have come straight from 19th century. I love the 'old Bali' look. What’s next for Stephan Kotas? Right now I'm focusing on shooting wet plate portraits for private clients and art galleries. My next plan is to get my portable darkroom going. I don't want to be restricted to working only in my studio; I want to be able to shoot on location in different parts of Bali. One of my biggest dreams is to go to Papua to shoot portraits in Baliem Valley. Bringing the wet plate process to the field is very challenging because of all the logistics, so any trip like this would replicate the hard core photo expeditions that took place in the old days. I will need to bring more than 100kg of equipment with me, a chemical lab and a darkroom. I am also starting to make platinum prints. It's the most beautiful and also hardest contact print technique, producing longlasting archival images. There's only very few people in the world still doing it. Best of luck in your adventures, Stephan. www.stephankotas.com

yak fashion photography: oscar munar styling: angie angGoro Model: ABUK AKOL @castawaymodelmanagement special thanks to Teddy.

Jewelry by kasha bali Swimsuit by Prada shoes by zara

hat by Erika PeĂąa.

yak fashion jewelry and cape Ichiana Ibiza.

material stylist's own.

yak fashion red two piece from eva collection. hat model's own.

top: wrap top and bottom from eva collection. above: bikini by eva collection.

omnibus

GAVA FOX GETS TO GRIPS WITH THE REALITIES OF CORONAVIRUS AND ITS PLACE IN THE PANTHEON OF VIRAL EPIDEMICS.

"THE ANTI-VAXXER MOVEMENT IS THE STRONGEST VIRUS IN THE us, ESPECIALLY AMONGST FUNDAMENTALIST RELIGIOUS GROUPS, WHERE A BELIEF IN GOD SEEMS TO TRUMP FAITH IN SCIENCE."

You’d have to have been living in a cave – where at least you’d be safe from infection – to have missed news of the coronavirus epidemic that is sweeping the world. With its origins in the Chinese city of Wuhan, the virus crossed over to humans from wild animals slaughtered for the pot in a city wet market. The two main theories suggest it either came from bats, a rare winter delicacy in Hubei province, or pangolins, the harmless anteater – the world’s most trafficked animal – which is slaughtered by the millions for its scales, which are made out of the same material as fingernails but many mistakenly believe have medicinal properties. The Chinese penchant for exotic food is well known: you can eat anything with legs apart from a table, the old joke goes, anything with wings apart from an aeroplane, and anything in water apart from a boat. News that the pangolin may have been the source of the new virus may turn out to be its salvation. This crossover of unknown viruses from animal to human is becoming increasingly common as we encroach on wild habitats. HIV, which causes AIDS, is believed to have mutated from the Simian Immunodeficiency Virus first found in chimpanzees in the Belgian Congo in the 1920s. Why didn’t it spread as swiftly then as it did from the 1980s onwards? Simply because the world wasn’t as connected as it is today. Bird flu, swine fever, mad cow disease . . . all these viruses originated in animals, but because of our increasingly close contact with them – and a lack of attention to basic hygiene – conditions were ripe for them to change their basic genetic structure and turn their attention to us. Unlike bacteria, which were the first living things on earth, viruses are considered to be organisms “on the edge of life”. They carry genetic material, reproduce and evolve through natural selection, but lack key cells that are generally considered

necessary to count as life. Still, the impact they have on our lives is immense. You can treat bacterial infections with antibiotics, although our insistence on taking them to treat everything from a cough to a scratch is helping breed super-resistant strains that defy our ability to keep pace. Viruses, however, are different. They tend not to kill by themselves, but rather weaken our immune systems and lead us to succumb to other illnesses. With AIDS, for example, it isn’t the virus that kills you, but in most cases – in the early days at least – patients would die of tuberculosis or some kind of pneumonia. As a result, there is a great deal of misinformation surrounding the treatment or “cure” for viruses. In most cases, scientists are not working on finding a cure, but rather on a vaccine – a shot that will give you a mild form of the disease, not enough to make you ill, but enough to trigger your body’s immune system into producing antibodies so that if you ever do get the full-blown virus, you are already armed with protection. Take polio, for example. The virus has been known for much of human history – there are paintings in Egyptian tombs showing apparent polio victims – and it has killed or crippled millions of people since civilization began. But in the early 1900s, it began to spread, and major epidemics began to occur in Europe and the United States. At its peak after World War II, polio was killing or maiming over half a million people every year and it became the world’s most feared disease. It struck suddenly, afflicted the rich and poor without favour and required long quarantine periods during which parents were separated from their families. The virus left

victims marked for life, needing wheelchairs, crutches, cumbersome leg braces, and at best, left them with deformed limbs and a limp for life. The development of polio vaccines by Jonas Salk and Albert Sabin changed all that. Today, polio has been eradicated in every country of the world apart from Afghanistan and Pakistan – the former as a result of years of war and the latter because of mistrust in vaccination campaigns brought about by the CIA creating a fake polio program to glean intelligence on the whereabouts of Osama bin Laden. Many other viruses that killed or maimed millions have similarly been defeated. Smallpox is an even greater success story. It was known as “smallpox” to distinguish it from syphilis, which was called “the great pox”, but is estimated to have killed up to 300 million people in the 20th century alone and half a billion people in the last 100 years of its existence. As recently as 1967, 15 million infections occurred a year but, as the result of a vaccination program, the last naturally occurring case was diagnosed in 1977 and the World Health Organization declared it eradicated around the globe a year later. Incidentally, the only other disease that is considered to have been eradicated is rinderpest, which affected cattle and other ungulates until the last known case in 2010. The science behind vaccines is proven and irrefutable, yet in the past decade or so a group of people known as “anti-vaxxers” has emerged to challenge both the wisdom and effectiveness of the practice. The movement started with a British doctor, Andrew Wakefield, who published a report suggesting a link between the Measles, Mumps and Rubella (MMR) vaccine and autism. 67

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It was later discovered he had falsified data from the study and had committed outright fraud to promote his business interests, but the seeds were sown. In the United States, parents looking to explain behavioural difficulties in the children seized on the false report – some with good intentions, but others seeking compensation in the litigious-mad country. It became both a cause célèbre and a cause of celebrities – led by Jenny McCarthy, a former Playboy bunny and B movie actress. Today the anti-vaxxers count actresses Jessica Beal and Lisa Bonet in the numbers, as well as comedians Jim Carey and Bill Maher. This “virus” is strongest in the United States but is also found in Europe, Australia and South Africa. It seems to take strongest root in fundamentalist religious groups, where a belief in God seems to trump any faith in science, and spreads via the internet through ill-informed chat-rooms, Facebook pages and Twitter #hashtags. The result of this ignorance is deadly. Only this year, a fouryear-old boy died of the flu in Colorado after an anti-vaxxer Facebook group told his mom to treat him with elderberries and breast milk instead of Tamiflu. That is just one isolated case, but the effect of the pushback to the MMR has been far more devastating. The US was declared measlesfree in 2000 – meaning there had been no continuous transmission of the disease for more than 12 months. Last year, however, there were more than 1,000 cases in the first six months, more than the previous decade combined. Most of these cases occurred among the Amish, a community of Old Testament fundamentalists that eschews modernity including

vaccinations, but many infections were reported in hipster California as a result of the anti-vaxx campaigns. Epidemics have been around as long as people first came together, and in recent history, they have cut large swathes through society. Up to 10 million people are believed to have died in a smallpox epidemic in five years around the year 180 AD. The plague erupted frequently – killing 50 million in Europe, Africa and the Middle East around 580 AD. That was nothing compared to the 200 million it killed between 1330-1350, wiping out a third of the world’s population when it acquired the moniker “the black death” because of the pustulating sores it created. Another 100,00 died of the plague in London in 1666, and it was only eradicated there because of the Great Fire. More recently one hundred million people (yes, you read that right) died of Spanish flu in two years between 1918-1920, paradoxically granting immunity to most of those who survived. A million people died worldwide of Hong Kong flu in 1969, but since then most disease outbreaks have tended to be localized and prevented from becoming epidemics. AIDS changed that. Some 30 million people have died as a result of being infected with HIV, but if you weren’t alive in the late '70s and '80s, you will have no idea of the terror it wrought. If you got AIDS, you died, it was as simple as that, but people infected today are leading full lives thanks to anti-retroviral treatments and scientists are confident that with multiple research projects around the world, a vaccine will be developed within the decade. So why the panic over this new coronavirus, which at time of writing had killed around 2,500

people from around 100,000 infected? Writing this from Hong Kong, the fear is palpable. There has been panic buying of surgical masks – and toilet paper, for some reason. Taxi drivers won’t stop for you and bus drivers won’t let you get on unless you’re wearing a mask. Restaurants and bars are deserted, and half the population is working from home. But so far Hong Kong has less than 100 confirmed cases, and just two deaths. Social media hasn’t helped. There has been an incredible amount of misinformation about the virus spreading on Twitter and Facebook, prompting some countries to constitute laws against fake news. In Japan, thieves made off with 6,000 surgical masks from a warehouse. In Hong Kong, three men armed with knives stole 600 toilet rolls as they were being delivered to a supermarket. Police immediately caught two of them, and when they nabbed the third it prompted the memorable headline: “Police on a roll as toilet paper thief is flushed out”. Indonesia has remained blessedly free of the virus, although I will take the scientific explanation that it struggles to survive in hot weather over that of the health minister claiming it was prayer that has kept it at bay. If the virus runs its course, there should be no new infections from around May, but that hasn’t stopped global travel from being thrown into complete disarray. It’s at times like this I remember my dad’s response to any attempt by us children trying to get off school by pretending to be ill. “It’s not the cough that carries you off; it’s the coffin they carry you off in.”

"iN Hong Kong, the fear is palpable. There has been panic buying of surgical masks â&#x20AC;&#x201C; and toilet paper, for some reason."

Coming Spring 2020

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Pyramids of Chi, Sound Healing If you’re looking for a deep sense of peace and reconnection to self, then expect the unexpected at Pyramids of Chi, where a combination of ancient sounds, sacred geomancy design and polar positioning encourage your chakra system to synchronise with the pyramid’s energy: clearing emotional or mental blockages while harnessing the energy of the Island of Bali. The rhythm and beats of the gongs, drums and didgeridoo combine with the scent of sandalwood and a peaceful atmosphere in the Pyramids of Chi to reduce any betabrain waves that dominate aroused conscious thought, and increase the intensity of theta waves within the brain, introducing deep relaxation and increased awareness of inner-self. The two pyramids have been built and designed under sacred geometry guidelines and are aligned to draw powerful and uplifting energy to rejuvenate your soul. Founders Peter and Lynn McIntosh believe they were guided to help people discover the wonders of complete relaxation using sound, vibrations and breathing techniques. Unexpected events brought them to Ubud in 2013, where they had a vision to build two pyramids in a location known as a place of ancient healing medicine. Four years later the project was completed and in full operation by March 2017. In the first year almost 8,000 visitors made their way to the Pyramids to experience their magic. Peter and Lynn are both trained gong masters and have a wealth of experience helping people achieve the ultimate in sound healing and relaxation through sound therapy.

Sound healing works on the principle that everything is in vibration, that all matter broken down to the sub-atomic level is simply a state of vibration. Emotions are also vibration, as demonstrated by the work of Dr Emoto who exposed water to emotional influence and observed the patterns created at the molecular level. Dr Emoto’s research shows that healthy emotions produce harmonic geometric shapes, whereas negative emotions produce disarray. The same principle applies to our bodies, which are up to 60 percent water, so when we expose ourselves to stress, electromagnetic fields and unhealthy lifestyles, our system can be affected adversely. It has also been claimed that 20 minutes in a theta state is equivalent to three to five hours sleep. When experiencing the powerful vibrations of a gong or didgeridoo on the body, the being is literally being resonated back into a healthy harmonic state of vibration on a physical, emotional and energetic level. Many people spend so much time in a state of feeling nervous, fearful, worried or under pressure and fail to realise the stressful effects of these states. Sound waves create profound healing upon physical, emotional or even mental issues by re-aligning one or more of the energy centres within the body. This reaction is referred to as a ‘release’ and if experienced is a true blessing and wonderful gift to receive. Surrounded by an expanse of rice fields, visitors to the Pyramids of Chi arrive with a chaotic mind and body, but leave with serenity.

At the beginning of the ceremony, don’t forget to breathe! Try and suspend any expectations or judgments before you enter, as this will really help to anchor you in the practice and stay in the present. Taking long deep breaths at the start of the sound bath will support you to deeply relax and encourage the body to open to the sound work. If you find your mind wandering, gently bring the focus back to the breath, using it as an anchor for the experience. And the end of the ceremony it’s important to allow yourself some time to take everything in and soak up the energy that has been created. This helps to ground the experience and allow the brain to register what has happened. Stay in the room as long as you need to assimilate. In the days, hours, weeks after, you may have revelatory dreams, or maybe the way you interact with people will change. Sound healing is a deeply personal experience: it brings up different experiences for different people, from crying to falling asleep. One of the beautiful things about sound healing is that it’s different every time. Pyramids of Chi is the ultimate sound healing experience in Bali, housed within a spectacular 14-meter gold painted Pyramid, built to 1/16th scale of the Great Pyramid of Giza – the Pyramid of Sun. Jump on their free shuttle bus to enjoy a wellness café, unique line-up of events, and workshops. K.D. www.pyramidsofchi.com

experience the pinnacle of release at pyramids of chi.

floatation: to sleep, perchance to dream.

Karen Donald experiences zero gravity floatation, the first of its kind in Indonesia.

tension. Water is the exact music and traffic noise. The float Solace Float is a sensory same temperature of your skin, tank reduces external stimuli deprivation float tank centre an embryonic 34.5 degrees, and in order to reach new levels of located in Canggu offering there comes a point where you’re relaxation. Floatation tanks can customers a little solace from unable to tell where the water be used to explore the 'thetatheir day to day. Floatation begins and your body ends. When state', which is often apparent therapy is an immersive experience the lights went out and the pod just before we fall asleep. that allows you to feel hatch was shut, the darkness that weightlessness in a soundproof, we experience in a float tank is Early studies have suggested that light-free float tank filled with pretty much like no darkness we’ve floating can be useful in treating Epsom salt and warm water. The ever experienced before, ensuring anxiety-related conditions, relief primary function is to eliminate you get a much better quality from painful inflammatory conditions as many external senses as sleep or state of relaxation in and other benefits including muscle possible, drifting off into a the tank. Soon I was disconnected recovery, enhanced problemmeditative state with beneficial from the pressures of city life. solving abilities and improved health effects such as creativity, "A digital detox" is another way sleep quality. Studies show that muscle recovery and accelerated Aaron describes it, being able to people with chronic pain have learning. When the external, hectic disconnect from our devices even reduced their medication for up world disappears, incredible for 90-minutes is of great benefit. to three days; pregnant women things can happen within. enjoy floating in a zero gravity After an hour and a half (which environment to relieve the weight Solace Float founder Aaron Turner seemed more like 10 minutes) the of their baby. According to Aaron, has big plans for the future — music fades in, easing you out Navy Seals are using floating for to empower people and improve of your float. As the lights turn accelerated learning, stating they their minds and bodies through on, I stepped out and rinsed off have cut down language learning the transformative powers of the salt water. The post-float from six months to six weeks. flotation therapy. Aaron's first glow is glorious, and the after ever float was five years ago, float space is relaxing, with The tank is large and wide, and you when after 60-minutes in a float reassuring staff on hand in case can easily open the door at any tank he literally planned out you have feedback or questions. time to ground yourself. There are his life. After moving to Bali For me, the experience continued lights inside and air vents to keep from Australia Aaron left a job post float as my mind had a lot of you comfortable, and if you'd like in liquid natural gas to pursue extra processing power. A session you're welcome to leave the door other dreams in the wellness at Solace Float almost forces to the tank open while you float. sector. Although float tanks in you to rest and relax, to empty Some people fall asleep, but the Bali were very hard to find, Aaron your mind, bringing clarity of water is so buoyant you never sink. eventually met someone from a thought and fueling creativity. maritime electrical engineering It really is a must-try. Close the door behind you, background with the skill set turn off the lights when to build tanks, and Julian Lunt you’re ready and float. became his business partner. @Solacefloat The float tank environment is conducive to naturally allow you to fall into a state of meditation so you're able to eliminate all other sensory inputs including background

I was soon floating effortlessly on the top of a body of water more dense than the Dead Sea, putting the body in a more natural position than sleep, releasing

karen donald meets Aslinda Sawawi to unlock the mysteries of colour therapy pioneered by Aura-Soma founder Vicky Wall. Harnessing the vibrational powers of Mother Nature, Aura-Soma is a system of colour, plant and crystal energies that enhance happiness and vitality. Created using the highest quality organic and biodynamic ingredients, their products bring ease, balance and calm to your body’s energetic system – while strengthening and protecting the aura they empower and elevate. Aura Soma founder Vicky Wall was one of the first women to be appointed as a surgical chiropodist in England. After losing her eyesight at the age of 70 she immersed herself into a world of meditation and wellbeing, which led to the creation of the first Equilibrium bottles in 1983. The idea came to her one evening, where she worked in her small home laboratory mixing oils, water, herbs and plant extracts to create the first ever version of the dual-coloured Equilibrium bottles. She did all of this by feel, guided by instinct, and come morning the light radiated through the coloured layers that are used today.

equal measures.

Her companion Mike Booth worked with Vicky full time, from 1983, and in Mike, Vicky identified the person to not only carry on her work, but to develop it further. She said she “birthed” the system, and Mike would help it grow into “adulthood”. In 2018 Bali-based Aslinda Sawawi became an Aura-Soma Practitioner after attending Mike's workshops. Aslinda, a former Singapore Airlines Flight Attendant and mother of two, found the Aura-Soma journey so remarkable that she discovered her mission in life: to care for others. "I discovered Aura-Soma through the attraction of colours and the scent that was shared with me through my NeuroLinguistic Programming classmates when I was working on a spa project in 2017," she said.

Aslinda works out of her tranquil and peaceful home in Berawa giving private consultations where she guides clients through a self-selection session of the Equilibrium bottles. Aslinda's consultation draws on her insightful and intuitive colour therapy expertise, and helps clients to become aware of their potential with uniquely self-selected Equilibrium, Pomander or Quintessence products: opening the heart, restoring balance and bringing some awareness to identify underlying issues that may be hidden within the body. The key within the system is self-selective, non intrusive, so whilst it helps a person “see” things, applying the bottle personally helps the being to receive what it needs. You are the colours you choose, and these reflect your being's needs. A session uses the vibrational power of colour to rebalance the body’s seven main chakras or energy wheels using designated Aura-Soma products containing the living energies of plants, essential oils, gems and crystals. More than 100 dual-coloured bottles are available to select, and the unique AuraSoma energy in each bottle is unlocked when it touches your skin, making you the catalyst to realising your own happiness and vitality. During a session, clients stand in front of various colour combinations contained within the bottles and select four that they feel most drawn to. Each Equilibrium has numerology with a matrix-layout that determines our soul, incarnational and earthstar accumulates from the sum of the past to the sum of the present future. Together with Aslinda, clients review their chosen colours and explore their meanings in the context of their own journey, to discover which of the products best help build and maintain happiness and vitality every day.

"Aura-Soma is so beautiful in that it touches people in different ways," explains Aslinda. "Aura-Soma has definitely brought about ease to my son's electro-magnetic field during his toughest autistic episodes. I believe that it could support anyone in the same situation." Aura-Soma core products also contain Pomanders, used to cleanse and give protection; Quintessences, that are useful for meditation; Colour Essences, to support the connection of emotional and mental-self with your physicality, and the ArchAngeloi to facilitate the expression of the light within us. ArchAngeloi is an expression of your ongoing soul-purpose: the highest possibility for life. Over the years, Aura-Soma has created a range of products that inspire fellow human beings on their path to happiness and vitality. Many of their plants and herbs are grown biodynamically on Shire Farm in England. Capturing the essence straight from the source they extract floral waters and herbal tinctures at the very moment the plants are picked to retain the integrity of every beneficial property. Each carefully chosen ingredient is taken through a bespoke alchemical process where they are infused with the living energies of colour, light and the vibratory tinctures of crystals and gems and blended within state-of-the-art oloid mixers. While no individual ingredient is a secret, it is the careful combination of them that creates the power to transform. Aura-Soma Practitioner Aslinda has been involved in many forms of coaching since studying Art Stream in Singapore, including Neuro Linguistic Programming, Kineosiology, Art Therapy, and working along side Occupational and behavioural therapists. @Solei.life

Take your holiday to the next level and enjoy the magnificent ocean view from the newly-unveiled lobby of Conrad Bali. Step into the refurbished rooms and take a dip in the elongated lagoon pools surrounded by lush tropical garden.

Jalan Pratama 168, Tanjung Benoa, Bali 80363 Indonesia, For reservations call +62 361 778 788 or Toll Free 0800-140-1147 Reservations@ConradBali.com or visit ConradBali.com

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Zoë Palmer-Wright: Health Coach, Nutritionist and Naturopath Despite their similarities, health coaching, nutritionist and naturopathy are unique professions that differ in distinct ways. A health coach discovers what habits to change and uses goal setting to get positive results, whereas a nutritionist helps clients choose suitable foods, plan menus and learn about healthy eating habits. Naturopaths, on the other hand, are wellness providers who use natural remedies to help the body heal itself. Zoë Palmer-Wright is qualified in all three areas, and she specialises in helping women balance their hormones, improve their skin and streamline their digestion so they feel happier, more confident and in control. Zoë helps women who are struggling with fatigue, anxiety, irritability, skin breakouts, bloating and other common complaints: providing natural, practical and measurable solutions to women's health issues online. A former principal lecturer at The College of Naturopathic Medicine in London, Zoë offers one-on-one Health Coaching Programmes online, with a high level of support and ongoing interaction to determine the underlying cause of symptoms – addressing them naturally. From there, clients are asked to make changes to their lifestyle and diet to help them regain balance and steadily see improvements. Zoë is trained to completely shift the way people nourish their bodies, prescribing a personally-tailored plan with a bespoke diet, natural supplements and lifestyle advice with tools to help clients achieve an optimum state of health. Having conducted over 5,000 health coaching sessions as a health educator, Zoë doesn't just tell her clients ‘what to do’, she explains

exactly ‘why’ and ‘how’ it will benefit them – helping them to understand their bodies and the root cause of their symptoms so that clients can be empowered creators of their health and vitality moving forward. Throughout the programme clients have consistent contact with Zoë in the form of coaching sessions, emails, videos and written guidelines to apply what has been learnt practically. Zoë utilises nutrition, natural supplements, botanical medicines, detoxification, mind body techniques and combines them into a fully integrated wellness approach. All of her recommendations are bespoke to the client and their specific health issues and wellness goals. She tends to use a mixture of herbal tinctures and capsules, teas and foodstate powders (alongside other natural supplements such as vitamins and minerals). Regardless of its form, a botanical medicine needs to be high in quality, as close to its natural state as possible (free of toxins, additives), and efficacious for Zoë to recommend it. Zoë applies alternative medicine due to its effectiveness (results can be absolutely transformative) and also because alternative medicine is empowering – putting the power and control over your health back in your own hands. It’s also very safe (‘First, Do No Harm’ is one of the core, six principles of naturopathy). Naturopaths like Zoë address the root cause of problems rather than just suppressing symptoms, which is extremely important because if you just suppress then you are masking the issue, and often creating a dependence on the medicine (which may result in unpleasant side effects). However, Zoë also values Western medicine and always works in an integrated way with doctors, recognising Red Flags and referring back to them for further

testing or assessments whenever necessary. One of the main health challenges that occur as a result of living in Bali and the tropics, says Zoë are yeast infections. They are absolutely rampant and manifest as fungal skin and nail infections (white patches), thrush, jock itch, foggy thinking and abdominal bloating. Skin problems are really common too, such as acne, and prematurely ageing skin – not forgetting digestive issues, 'Bali belly', Irritable Bowel Syndrome and parasites. Her online three-month Coaching Programme is ideal for people who have been struggling with chronic symptoms and are ready to tackle them at the level of root cause by changing aspects of their diet, lifestyle and mindset. Zoë has just returned from the Middle East, where she launched her first book A Beautiful Balance – A Wellness Guide to Healthy Eating and Feeling Great. She is launching a healthy meal delivery business in Bali soon – Superfood Meal Plans offers a unique concept with incredible, functional menus that harness the power of food as medicine and are designed to help people with some of the most common health issues in Bali – like skin, hormonal and digestive issues, in addition to helping them achieve specific wellbeing goals. If you’re interested in finding out more info on being coached by Zoë, you can book a free 30-minute discovery call with her at https://calendly.com/ zoepw

ZPW.

Karen Donald learns about the potency of herbology with Muka founder Iris while experiencing natural spa energetics.

skin food deep.

Muka Concepts is a unique, Bali-based skin care range using natural, locally sourced products that have been created to nourish all skin types using intuitive herbology, which centres around learning from plants directly, and engaging with the healing processes catalysed over centuries by humanplant relationships. This is a heartfelt approach to herbalism and is as much a journey into our own consciousness as it is a meeting with Mother Nature.

Customers can indulge in a 1-2 hour professional Signature Facial Treatment with Iris, who will massage every inch of your face, neck and chest using gentle pressure. The deep-cleansing massage includes layers of indulgent creams and butters for a luxurious spa experience. The ritual starts with 45-minutes of warm steam, directed onto your face to open the pores.

Muka is a collective of dedicated people discovering unique herbal gifts from around Bali. Using the art of intuitive herbology customers can choose from a range of herbal blends and products, using their intuition and inner knowing. By tuning into the vibration of each plant, people often select the perfect combination of personality, healing power and flavour, and are guided to its magical, beneficial properties.

During the facial, a noni scrub is applied with wet hands to relax the whole facial area. Muka scrubs can be used as a daily practice: they have moisturising properties and are not abrasive. Iris employs a technique of breath work, and with surgical gloves she massages the muscles in and around the mouth and cheeks: her personal touch reminds you to breathe into a deep surrender. Reclining on a massage chair, this unique intimate connection is a wonderful ritual between feminine nature and herbal medicine.

Armenian-born Iris van de Coevering came to Bali 15-years-ago from the fashion industry with an acquired knowledge of massage therapies and skincare treatments: having worked in two Miami-based spas. Her interest in herbal medicine, and beauty, fuelled a desire to create something profound in Bali. After researching extensively to boost her understanding of local organic ingredients, Iris created her own herbal lab so she could continue her journey of discovery.

Iris and her devoted team at Muka have been working for years developing outstanding products with natural ingredients such as anti-aging mud masks, and brightening turmeric masks: essential if you need to treat hyper pigmentation, inflammation and skin damage. The scrubs are available in chocolate, coffee and sea salt variants, while macadamia is an effective cleanser. Turmeric masks calm and heal the skin while soothing capillaries and inflammation. Mud masks purify and detoxify: excellent for oily skin.

What makes Muka Concepts so unique is the use of locally grown herbs, spices and butters from Bali, using a traditional jamu methods to prepare skin remedies. Jamu preserves the vibrational energy of the products, allowing luxurious scrubs, butters, creams and oil preparations to generously nourish, heal and purify the skin. Cold pressed macadamia cleansers, flower cream butters, turmeric masks and seaweed serums are handmade, natural and organic. Muka treats fruits and spices as ‘literal food for the skin’. In fact they could be eaten like jams and are 100% vegan: straight from the ground.

For extra hydration and collagen production, try Muka’s Seaweed Serum, with added aloe vera for daily use. Their Honey Body Cream dissolves fat cells, and ginger essential oil increases blood circulation, promoting oxygenation of tissues. Nutmeg flower oil, infused with vitamin E in a sesame oil base enhances the face, treating blackheads and acne. Flower Butter Cream is infused with geranium oil to balance the secretion of sebum and brightens sluggish skin. It contains antiseptic properties: an effective balm for wounds and burns. The shop offers a wide range of facial products for all skin types.

The Muka Concepts shop is located in the village of Pererenan, where customers call in to enjoy beautiful facials with local nourishing ingredients. A long wooden counter displays their products – here you can sample free testers for all skin types, giving yourself a do-it-yourself facial. This is all part of the ingenious concept thought up by founder Iris – a complimentary way to try out her brand. Just add a little water to the jamu products to activate them.

Muka believes passionately in promoting ancient herbal wisdom and local natural ingredients. Their magical touch will leave you relaxed and glowing.

thumbs up for skin nutrition.

@muka¬concepts

wear me baby one more time shop ethically in Bali with Pre-Loved Clothes from OneLove & The Frog Market.

Eco-friendly shoppers are attracted to pre-loved clothes at designer vintage boutiques – there's nothing like the satisfaction of stumbling across an unexpected designer treasure. But what are the benefits? Karen Donald goes shopping at One Love and The Frog Market in Bali: looking for hidden gems. Now is the time to buy second-hand designer items and vintage clothing. The desire to shop more ethically, and cut down on waste is particularly popular among younger consumers. Whether you’re a holidaymaker or an Instagram celebrity, rather than looking like everyone else, why not stand out from the crowd and develop your own unique style? The fashion industry is one of the most polluting in the world, and consumers increasingly understand that extending the life of a garment has a positive impact. By wearing pre-loved and vintage designer fashion you are supporting a sustainable and ethical lifestyle. It's a fun, financially rewarding and exciting way to shop. OneLove Fashion Production, Canggu & Berawa Having lived in Bali for many years, working in the fashion retail industry, husband and wife combo Gina and Simon saw a huge need for designers to be able to get quality production at prices they could afford, without the stress of production. With their motto “Be Kind To The Earth, Buy Vintage”, their vision was to open a designer outlet and be the first vintage clothing store in Bali. In 2007, Gina approached designers on the island to sell their over runs, samples, and excess stock. From there she introduced preloved for expats and locals allowing them to sell 86

second-hand clothing at OneLove. What doesn’t sell, OneLove donates to different organisations in Bali or gives the remainder of the clothing to local villages. There are no negatives with vintage fashion, it’s good for the people, and the economy, and if you really want to express yourself, then vintage fashion is a great option street-wise too. By buying secondhand and vintage clothing it keeps the recycling system in place: every vintage garment purchased means one less new garment produced.

silk dresses of all varieties, pre-worn jeans, leather shoes and much more, this impressive market sells an assortment of retro boots, lacy lingerie and sheep skin jackets. It’s not uncommon to find the occasional luxury branded vintage fashion item, and if you visit these markets on a regular basis you will build and strengthen your knowledge of second-hand vintage clothing, and become a true expert with a keen eye able to spot the most interesting garments.

The incredibly unique little store is so well pitched, carrying designer clothing at discount prices with all the great brands. Their vintage is authentic and includes Guess, Nina Ricci, Prada, Karl Lagerfield and Giorgio Armarni. Sports brands include Fila, Adidas, Gucci, Champion, and Puma. The vintage sunglass range has Versace, Guess, Prada, and Rayban in store. With vintage swim Paulo, Gucci, Ellesee and Nina, just to mention a few. Plus an array of vintage bold prints. New stock arrives regularly: so stop by often!

If you are an avid enthusiast or fashion designer, drop in and hunt down second-hand belts, skirts, dresses, singlets and a variety of designer labels: with most items ranging from US$2-20. It takes a keen eye and some determination to stalk the isles of clothing under rain-carved gutters, but a day at The Frog Market can be a fruitful one. It mostly stocks European brands: Levis, Bebe, Ralph Lauren, Stussy, Hang Ten, Adidas, Stussy, Benetton, H&M and Gap, with retro shirts, oversized singlets, comfy jumpers, retro swimsuits, tons of shirts and blouses, leather jackets, bags and shoes.

The Frog Market, Tabanan Located near the foot of Mount Batukaru, Tabanan, The Frog Market – otherwise known as Pasar Kodok to locals – is about an hour's drive from Seminyak, and a shoppers paradise for good second-hand vintage clothing.

Open daily from 9am-3pm you can literally get lost amongst the treasures at The Frog Market. Be careful to check for authentic labels, and thoroughly feel the materials before purchasing an item. If you’re a firsttime buyer at a vintage market, just remember one thing: always go for the classics. K.D.

At the Frog Market you will find all sorts of garments dating back to the '60s from across the world; their treasures are imported from a myriad of secondhand overseas dealers. Presenting vintage tee shirts,

Address: Gang V, Dauh Peken, Kec. Tabanan.

seconds out: vintage clothing.

Valley views & gourmet dishes Join us for a gourmet experience at one of Ubudâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most striking destinations. Cascades is perched atop a luscious ravine in the Valley of Kings, just a five-minute drive from the town centre. cascadesbali.com |

cascadesbali | +62 361 972 111

issues

Masha Mozolevskaya dissects what it means to be russian in bali. portraits by oscar munar.

Vodka, Putin, babushka. That’s the combo any Russian is

the Russian community consisted mostly of ribbed young

immigration system just become annoying and the

doomed to be associated with the moment they meet an

Russian surfers, drunk with the overwhelming feeling of

über-relaxed island lifestyle eventually kills most feelings

American, an Ozzie or whoever from the rest of the world.

freedom from life in the grey concrete jungle. Some were

of overachieving. “I became too lazy to bother,” says Pyotr

If you’re in Indonesia, throw in Masha and The Bear, an

actual sportsmen, spending most of their time riding the

Scherbatov, a graphic designer from Moscow. “Russia just

inexplicably successful cartoon series depicting the abusive

waves and napping in hammocks somewhere on the Bukit.

felt so far away anyways.”

relationship between a bitchy Slavic female and her hairy

Others were digital nomads – a term that hadn’t even

admirer. So what can all these stereotypes possibly tell you

been invented back then – surfing in the early hours and

about Russians as a race? Pretty much nothing that would be

spending the rest of the day behind a monitor, coding or

any close to truth.

doing graphic design for their clients back home. Later on,

It’s one thing if you meet Russians in their natural habitat – flashy, trendy Moscow, or snowy Siberia (should I try and count how many people I have met who are shocked to discover that Siberia is actually part of Russia, not a fairy-tale kingdom somewhere in the Arctic) – but it’s a completely different story if you meet them in a tropical playground such as Bali. That’s when all those questions start popping up: why are there so many of them? Why are they here at all?

the wave of young programmers flocking to Bali to ‘work

Russians don’t enjoy belonging to a community. We don’t

specialist without compromising on life quality. Say no to the

have an equivalent of those signs that declare “Proudly

office cubicle and gloomy skies of St. Pete or Tomsk, say yes

owned by Australians”. We don’t gather in large groups to

to papaya for breakfast, Bintang for lunch and a longboard

celebrate national days. If two Russians randomly bump

session to release muscle tension after a day in front of the

into each other in Carrefour, they will pretend to be from

screen.

anywhere but the same country. It’s not that we are

phenomenon: the ‘young brain drain to Asian paradise’. The

and heavily-inked dj Anton M started slaying island dance

Russians were going to be big in Bali.

trend was clear: you can still earn good money being a tech

To start with, Russians are not all Viking-type macho men

sorts of races – even Asian. When long-haired dark-skinned

Ten years ahead of the curve this guy knew that one day

The only thing he didn’t know was that, unlike Australians,

Back then each and every Russian media, from snobby Forbes

the massive Soviet Union had collapsed), it is home to all

the Russian community – owned, peculiarly, by a Tasmanian.

under the palm tree’ became stronger than Ulu’s rip curl. The

What are they doing here? Let’s have a closer look.

and leggy blonde bombshells. Russia is so vast (even after

There was once even a proper Russian magazine catering to

to hip Afisha, served up at least one article covering this sun, the sea, the joy of being barefoot around the clock, the private villa with a pool, the maid, the Go-Jack-it-all service. It all really seemed too good to be true. But most of all,

ashamed of being associated with our country, not really – however, most of us don’t enjoy discussing Putin over a jug of vodka. We also (generally) do not own pet bears. Shocking, I know. The actual reason why Russians avoid each other abroad, Bali included, is that most of them came such a long way to disconnect from their previous reality that the idea of

there was the intoxicating sense of freedom – something

automatically hanging out together is well, ridiculous.

us Russians discovered only recently. “For ages,” says Ksenia

To all of us, Bali feels like a different planet when compared

Valeeva, a successful make-up artist and an island resident of

to the place we came from. Yet the island welcomed us

six years, “we as a nation have been trapped, not only literally,

with Koreans. And yep, it’s still Russia – even though

and allowed us to play in its sandpit. “It felt like home

but figuratively speaking as well – trapped in the cage of our

geographically-speaking it’s kinda Japan. “It happens all the

immediately,” says Katya Kasatkina, a model whose face

own fears. And there is no wonder if you look back at our

time, almost every night,” says Anton. “The most amusing

history, which may repeat itself any day, you know?”

you have surely seen on the billboards, everywhere. “The

floors, the international party crowd refused to believe he was Russian. And yet his hometown is the island of Sahkalin, where the local population has historically mixed

part is that even Russians won’t believe me sometimes,

first breath I took when I landed in Bali 13 years ago tasted

Another Moscovite, a gay artist and a fashion designer, once

like home, even though I had never been here before and

confessed to me that he decided to leave Russia because

hadn’t seen anything of the island. I just stepped out of

despite being a very religious person, he always felt like a

the plane and I was at peace. I cannot explain it logically.

sinner – thanks to his good old Orthodox beliefs. He grew

And now it feels like home because it is home. I still catch

Then, there’s the big deal of Russian-speaking folks who

tired of feeling in danger, literally at risk for his life, so he

myself in moments of absolute happiness when I’m driving

actually come from Ukraine, Belorussia or Kazakhstan. They

moved to Bali where religion can’t be bothered with your

my scooter, walking my dog on the beach or staring at the

may share one common language, and some of them

sexuality. Oddly enough, even with the ever-increasing crime

moon at night.”

might be loud, hot and grumpy in ‘the Russian way’ but they

rate, Bali has always felt a safer place than the motherland.

especially if they are drunk enough. I always reply: why are you so shocked, mate? Like you didn’t know our country has an ass of every colour?”

would firmly correct you if you casually call them ‘Russky’. Try calling a true-blue Catalan ‘Spanish’, or label an Irish person as ‘English’. You’ll get a similar reaction – or maybe a friendly slap in the face. When I moved to Bali more than a decade ago, the core of 90

Surprise, surprise: it turns out Russians love Bali for exactly

It took only a few years for those first Slavic digital nomads

the same reasons as others. “Whether you can feel at home

to realize that working under the palm was more of a pain

here or not depends on who you are as a person, regardless

in the ass than a blissful solution. The Bali heat makes it

of your nationality,” says Katya, and I generally can’t think

impossible to concentrate (unless you’re paying for air

of better words to put a big fat dot at the end of this story.

conditioning), the visa runs and other joys of the local

Russians - we're just people. Now let the bears out!

Fedor Belogai Film Maker Siberia

Regina Gorlanova painter From Ekaterinburg (Ural, Russia).

left: Mariia zubashchenko from khabarovsk, right Tina Ivanova from moscow. models with balistarz.

Mariia zubashchenko.

spas

spa me baBy go on, you deserve it. here's the yak's best pampering experiences.

Blow Bar Bali.

Apurva Spa, Kempinski, Nusa Dua Overlooking the magnificent Indian Ocean, Apurva Spa embodies a unique pampering experience that is inspired by ancient Javanese healing traditions. Beyond that, their Signature Journeys are a collection of treatments offering a personalised holistic approach and revolve around the four stages of life: Remaja (Adolescence), Dewasa (Adulthood), Mahligai Kasih (Married Life), and Tenteram (Post-Adulthood). This famous spa is the most luxurious venue to reinvigorate your senses, with a wide range of options available. Kempinski’s Apurva Spa offers classical services of therapeutic massages to rebalance and rejuvenate your body– such as Prana Yoga, an oil free massage combining acupressure, shiatsu, body stretches and breathing exercises – an invigorating therapy that relieves muscular tension, loosens joints and opens energy channels. Choose from an array of brightening body wraps, and firming body scrubs, combining time-honoured rituals and modern techniques to create the most memorable spa experience on the island. A sanctuary of calm where the bodies and minds of global travellers are soothed and rejuvenated, a heavenly journey of renewal and relaxation across 14 treatment rooms, surrounded by sculpted walls with Javanese figures, ornate wooden doors, elegant patung carving, and a vista of the golden sandy bay. The Gending Apurva signature massage treatment is worth taking: it starts and ends with the striking of singing bowls, the ringing sound reverberating through the room. There’s a warm footbath and scrub with peppermint salts, then a body massage that combines Balinese techniques. From beauty rituals to infuse guests with a radiant glow, energizing treatments employing the healing properties of bamboo charcoal, freshly grated ginger and other warming spices, Apurva Spa Signature Journeys are designed to revitalise and refresh over several hours of scrubs, massages, and facials, reducing stress levels over two to five days. www.kempinski.com

Banyan Tree Resort and Spa, Ungasan Bali Situated on top of a high cliff at the Southern Ungasan Peninsula, Banyan Tree Resort and Spa is set amongst a natural forest, with traditional architecture, finely landscaped gardens and private beach. Blessed with panoramic views of the Indian Ocean and the mystic charm of its natural surroundings, the spa pavilion is tailor-made for romance and relaxation. Like the tropical and sacred tree from which it got its name, Banyan Tree Spa offers guests a Sanctuary for the Senses with its own range of products and Eastern-based therapies a place for physical, mental and spiritual renewal. To achieve this, the spa focuses on a non-clinical and holistic approach, emphasising a ‘high-touch, lowtech’ technique that celebrates the human touch, while using natural herbs and spices, native flowers and fruits. It’s time to indulge yourself Bali style achieve wellness through time-honoured Indonesian remedies and enter a state of peace with the Spa's Signature Range of Asian based healing therapies in the restful sanctuary of their opulent treatment pavilions. Turns out, Spa therapists receive formal training at Banyan Tree Spa Academies in Phuket in Thailand or Bintan in Indonesia, ensuring that each spa experience is seamlessly delivered. Signature treatments include, Sense of Place, where muscles are soothed and skin restored to its natural balance. This deeptissue Balinese massage is complemented by a relaxing face and head massage, which relieves tension. The Royal Banyan delivers eastern and western massage techniques to improve blood circulation and ease muscle aches: featuring a warm herbal pouch dipped in sesame oil. And the popular Rainmist, allows guests to unwind in sensory pleasure of a trickling Rain Shower bringing you perfect tranquility as tension is kneaded away by the healing touch of the therapist. www.banyantree.com

Blow Bar, Seminyak This glamorous haven in Seminyak is a blow-wave experience like no other. A modern bar that provides spritzers along with your hair styles and serves martinis with your manicure as you perch on a bar stool socializing in the upscale suburb of Seminyak, (directly behind the fashion store Bamboo Blonde). Their focus is not just on creative hair but a total social experience. With a bar running down the centre space, and hair stations wrapped around the edges, feel free to order dreamy headmassages and blow dry’s that sound like cocktails: from your ‘Classic’ signature blowout, or ’ The Bombshell’ big time curls. We recommend making a day of it, and taking your partner or friends. That’s not all, Blow Bar isn’t just for ladies, if your bloke is sick and tired of the regular barber experience, why not invest in a Beard Trim, Bro Dry or sample a Bubbling Bellini while stationed at the upmarket bar. This popular Manicure and Pedicure Boudoir seats six guests in crescent shaped booths and offers the latest in SNS Nail Treatments, Gel and Chrome Mirror Nail systems. The salon uses Davines hair products from Italy, a natural, sustainable, eco-friendly beauty brand changing the world one step at a time. Expert stylists are armed with glamorous tools using rose gold GHD straighteners and copper trimmed hair dryers, with filtered water for your hair. Whether you're celebrating a hen party or just fancy a few drinks at the bar, drop in and enjoy a relaxing cream bath, or treat yourself to foils, up-dos and make-up. The atmosphere is fun and the cocktails are naughty! www.blowbarbali.com

Chakra Spa, Samsara Ubud Right in the middle of a tropical haven lies Samsara Ubud – a popular destination for guests seeking absolute tranquility and relaxation. Chakra Spa is a temple of wellbeing fully dedicated to the art of pampering, offering a magical combination of experienced therapists and treatments featuring soothing massages and rejuvenating body scrubs to enliven your soul. As you are shown to one of Chakra Spa's three luxurious double treatment rooms, you will begin your journey towards total relaxation. This Temple Of Wellbeing is dedicated to complete relaxation and rejuvenation, with a range of Signature therapies that include soothing Balinese massages, healing reflexology and restorative body scrubs: away from Bali’s hustle and bustle. Chakra Spa also offers pampered guests a garden and outdoor yoga area, so why not rest your weary legs, forget about the world and achieve a perfect state of peace in the hands of Chakra Spa’s experienced therapists? The spa provides a range of Signature therapies including the famous "Chakra Massage" which focuses on sevenchakras of your body while performing intensely relaxing massage techniques–not forgetting the welcoming singing bowl, believed to help balance the body’s energy more seamlessly. The Spa’s Bamboo Massage uses warm bamboo to relieve tight and sore muscles, focusing on legs, arms and back: this treatment is the perfect combination of heated, warm and smooth bamboo tools with deep tissue techniques designed to reactivate circulation and relieve sore muscles leaving you in a state of relaxation. Other Signature treatments include Foot Reflexology, Back, Neck & Shoulder Massage, Deep Tissue Massage, and Volcano Hot Stone Massage. Surely the most serene spa in Ubud. www.samsaraubud.com

spas

Heavenly Spa by Westin, The Westin Resort Nusa Dua Why not explore a whole range of relaxing options at Heavenly Spa and let the serenity of this beautiful resort renew your spirits. Elevate your emotions with their unique Rollerssage or Signature Heavenly Massage, custom-designed to pamper your body and soul. Indulge in Westins new In-Room Spa Service, aimed to take guests through the ambience of Heaven, surrounded by earthy colours and decorative openings within the comfort of their room. Encompassing 16 wellness-oriented, natureinspired, treatment rooms, guests can enjoy an elaborate menu of body and beauty rituals. Enjoy exquisite massage techniques like shiatsu and manual lymphatic drainage treatment, with ‘Healing Hands,’ in combination with exclusive wet treatment rooms. Signature therapies to exfoliate and refresh the skin make Heavenly Spa a true wellness destination. Locally sourced ingredients such as seaweed elemental wraps, sea salt and coffee scrubs offer delightful therapies, inspired by ancient healing practices. Throughout the spa experience, therapists engage guests across seven senses: the five physical senses of sight, sound, touch, taste and scent, as well as the psychological senses of emotion and meaning. Their Heavenly Signature Massage uses comforting heated compresses, inviting your back muscles to relax before a Swedish massage leaves you feeling physically rested and mentally uplifted. Young spa-goers will love Westin Kids Spa, giving everyone the chance to be pampered with mini facials, and fun fruity cream baths for kids, making hair as smooth as a prince or princess with a choice of strawberry vanilla, blueberry mint, avocado honey and milky orange cream bath. Temporary tattoos, manicures and pedicures get kids beach-ready with fun hair braiding too! www.heavenlyspabali.com

Montigo Resort and Spa, Seminyak Where better to begin your pampering experience than Montigo Resort, located within a stone’s throw from the island’s best shops, art galleries, restaurants, and bars: combining tropical and modern concepts to provide the ultimate Seminyak hideout for spa treatments. Inspired by Balinese heritage and complemented by natural, locally produced products, Montigo Spa’s expertly-trained therapists provide individual consultation for each guest to create an exceptional experience, completely tailored to your individual needs. Spend quality time with your loved ones relaxing and indulging in the wide range of massage treatments, manicures, pedicures and salon services across 10 treatment rooms: available for individuals, couples, mothers, daughters, fathers and sons. Montigo Spa’s Traditional Balinese Massage is incredibly relaxing, but at the same time applies firm pressure, offering an instant relief to melt all your aches and pains away. If you want to try other signature treatments, they have everything from facials, flower baths to kids spa day packages and at the end of your treatment, a glass of warming ginger and honey tea gives your immune system a gentle boost. With its friendly, yet highly skilled therapists, this calm and restorative haven is open daily from 9am to 11pm: good news for those who enjoy a post-sunset massage in the comfort of their hotel. Montigo Spa offers various treatments managed by professionally trained therapists based on their unique high-touch, low-tech approach. To enhance the benefits of the spa journey, the resort also has spa suites that include a specially designed cocoon with rain shower and aromatherapy scents: simply the ultimate pampering experience! www.montigoresorts.com

Sensatia Botanicals And if you feel like a pampering session in the comfort of your home, Sensatia Botanicals brings a premium spa experience to your door with their new Body Care Collections. From humble beginnings, Indonesia’s leading natural beauty care brand, Sensatia Botanicals, was founded in the small, quiet fishing village of Jasri, Karangasem, on the east coast of Bali. Staying true, honest and focused, they are committed to using high quality ingredients in their collections, delivering a professional, quality Spa Experience to customers. The Collection features Sea Salt Scrubs, Massage Oils and Body Butters, each available in four different exquisite aromas: Lemongrass & Mandarin range that is infused with the luscious scent of wild lemongrass and sun-kissed mandarin oranges. Relaxation features an herbalfresh, flowery blend of sweet essential oils. The combination of Australian mandarin, geranium, lavender and chamomile help to soften skin and balance the body and mind. Seaside Citrus is reminiscent of a fresh summer breeze across the open ocean and provides the perfect synergy of grapefruit peel, French lavender, and Spanish rosemary essential oils. Tropical Wildflower is an exquisite floral line that takes inspiration from the fragrant breezes of Bali’s flowerspeckled tropical hillsides. Go on, surrender to the intoxicating blend of grapefruit, French lavender, geranium, ylang-ylang, chamomile, and jasmine blossom. These luxurious collections are formulated with natural textures and scents to achieve an indulgent, premium Spa Experience. The special-blend aroma helps you relax and retreat into a blissful wellness experience while reminiscing your best memories on the island of Bali. Available at all Sensatia store island-wide. Sounds delightful. www.sensatia.com

Spa ESC, Radisson Blu Uluwatu Attracting a wide range of guests from chic honeymooners to surfers, Radisson Blu Uluwatu is perched on a dramatically beautiful limestone cliff that lines the rugged coastline of Bali’s southern Bukit Peninsula. The area is blessed with idyllic white sand beaches including PadangPadang Beach. With its motto “Escape-Reboot-Recover,” Radisson’s world-class Spa ESC offers an extensive array of global wellness, inspired by Balinese architecture and space planning. The spa features an inner 'floating courtyard' where guests are able to reboot and recover pre and post-treatment. And that’s not all, their modern Zenlike design, Spa ESC uses Babor beauty products for facial treatments, focusing on natural and innovative, active ingredients. The spa features seven private treatment rooms, including two express rooms for those on the go, and two doubles with private steam showers. And in addition there are two express massage rooms, and a yoga/stretching room, accompanied by a range of artisan wares, an extensive menu of global wellness and beauty products, and a relaxation room to de stress: ideal for those looking for pampering within the hotel grounds. Try their 60-minute Blu Signature Stress Relieving Massage, utilising a blend of local products: including aromatic cempaka, frangipani and sandalwood oils. With warm hospitality and attentive staff, Radisson Blu is the perfect choice for visitors to get totally pampered in peaceful, tropical surroundings. www.radissonhotels.com

clockwise from top left: Samsara Ubud, Bali; The Apurva Kempinski Bali; Radisson Blu Bali Uluwatu; The Westin Resort Nusa Dua, Bali; Sensatia Botanicals; Montigo Resorts, Seminyak.

venting in a villa

living the life at conrad, bali.

major renovations have put conrad into the top tier of bali resort properties, as stephanie mee discovers on a weekend layover.

One of the best things about living in Bali is that any time you’re feeling a bit blasé about the everyday, you can skip off on a staycation to some pretty awesome resorts. Such is the case for myself and a mate around the Lunar New Year, so we set our sights on a getaway to sunny Nusa Dua. Our destination is Conrad Bali, a sublime seaside resort that recently underwent renovations.

All that swimming is sure to work up an appetite, and Eight Degrees South is the perfect place for a bite. Located at the edge of the pool and overlooking the ocean, this open-sided spot serves fresh global fare like vibrant salads, grilled seafood and roasted meats. Gluten-free and vegetarian dishes are clearly marked on the menu and there is a special selection of dishes for little ones.

The Asian holiday season is in full swing when we arrive, so the resort has plenty of happy travellers milling about to give the place great energy. Yet despite the fact that the lobby is buzzing, the service is spot on. We’re immediately brought cold towels and refreshing welcome drinks and the check-in is swift and hassle-free from start to finish.

Seeing as it’s the eve before the Lunar New Year, we decide to celebrate with a decadent sushi dinner at RIN. The Japanese restaurant is set in a quiet corner of the resort and has a cosy atmosphere with plenty of dark wood, Asian prints on the walls and tables lit softly with lanterns. The á la carte menu is enticing, but we decide to go omakase style and let the chef surprise us with an array of dishes.

Our Lagoon Suite is one of the newly renovated spaces in an exclusive wing of the resort and it’s pretty spectacular. It has scads of space including a separate living room and dining area with sofas, a huge TV, a dining table, and a guest bathroom. The bedroom features a plush king bed and a gorgeous bathroom with an oversized bathtub. The best part though is the wrap-around terrace with sun loungers and steps that lead directly into the pool.

Our multi-course meal includes insanely fresh sashimi expertly sliced and artfully displayed on ice, nigiri sushi featuring premium cuts of fish, miso soup with scallops, and wagyu steaks served with a sizzling hot stone so we can cook them right at the table. By the time the ginko panna cotta and macha roulade make it to the table, we’re close to sated, but somehow manage to finish the last dish.

You can’t talk about Conrad Bali without bringing up the lagoon pool. This massive free-form body of water winds its way around the Lagoon Wing of the resort. Start from your own steps or either end of the wing and swim your way past the suites, under bridges and up to the pool bar. Conveniently placed steps allow you to get out at various points and explore the lush gardens or head off to the beach in front of the property.

The new year starts with a new experience: a floating breakfast served in the pool in front of our room. Again, the chefs have gone all out with an opulent spread that includes granola and yoghurt, poached eggs on toast with fried tomatoes and bacon, waffles topped with strawberries and icing sugar, and a basket of freshly baked pastries. Everything is served on a huge tray that floats, so you can cool off in the pool while you eat.

If you really want to treat yourself, a visit to Jiwa Spa is a must. Follow a series of winding pathways through the gardens and past a series of ponds and you reach the spa building surrounded by lush greenery. Treatments include soothing massages with essential oils, rejuvenating facials, body wrap infusions, and flower baths. There are also special therapies designed specifically for men, as well as fun children’s treatments. On my stroll back to the suite, I walk along the beach and pass Conrad’s unique Infinity Wedding Chapel. This striking triangular structure has glass windows on all sides that offer views of the Indian Ocean. I can see how it would make for an incredibly memorable spot to tie the knot. For those considering a wedding in Bali, Conrad offers tailored packages that include nuptial ceremonies in the chapel, on the beach, or in the gardens. Throughout our stay, I’m struck by how elegant, yet easy-going the resort is and how even though it’s clearly a popular spot, it never feels crowded. Everything adds up to a phenomenal beachfront getaway from the beautiful poolside suite to the warm service, and the indulgent eats and spa treatments. Congratulations are in order to the Conrad for creating a fabulous place to which anyone can escape the ordinary. www.conradbali.com

over the edge Jacopo, what inspired you to build Magia II? In my family we’ve always been fascinated with wooden boats. My grandfather owned several Sangermani boats, and now I do as well. Sangermani is a shipyard located in Lavagna, Italy, on the northern Tyrrhenian coast, and within the sailing world it is regarded as having produced some of the most beautiful and elegant boats between the 1950s and 1970s. The boats were built in collaboration with some of the most prominent architects of the time. Today my family sails with Magia, a 1960s yawl designed by Sparkman & Stephens. I’ve lived in Asia most of my life, and in the past three years, I’ve spent as much time as possible in Indonesia, which has among its many treasures some of the last standing craftsmen in the world who are able to build wooden boats. I wanted to have the experience of building a wooden boat and following the project from the start. The design for Magia II was inspired by the 1960s motor yachts, because in my opinion, that period of time was when some of the most iconic boat designs were produced. I believe they were the result of the optimism that the West was feeling after World War II. Lastly, Indonesia has 18,000 islands and undoubtedly the best way to discover the nation is from the sea, so we built a boat. Can you tell us a bit about Magia II’s birthplace and how she was built? She was built in Bira, south Sulawesi, an area that is dedicated to shipbuilding where the trade has been passed down through the generations. The craftsmen know how to build boats with only a few tools and most follow their instinct rather than calculations. This produces boats with a soul, unique pieces for one to care for and experience.

There may be some imperfections but then what is perfect? It took over six months for the structure to be built. The hull had already been built by the same shipyard, but we completely changed the design of everything else, so we consider it a new build. She was then transferred to Bali to complete the interior and installation of the plumbing, electricity, machinery and sailing instruments. The interiors are pretty spectacular. Can you tell us a bit about some of the curated pieces? I’m glad you asked this because we tried to bring as many elements as possible that will allow our guests to feel like they are surrounded by beauty and comfort. We also did our best to match local crafts with elements from abroad. All the fabrics are Indonesian, as I believe that no other place on the planet, or at least not many, have as much variety in design and colour combinations. In the VIP cabin we have an antique batik hanging behind the bed. In the master cabin there is a Japanese painting that my father bought, and in the guest cabins there are two vintage prints representing maps of Asia. In the living room we installed hand-painted wallpaper from France, and the silverware, crystal glasses and lamps are from Italy. We also have some Indonesian pieces, such as a lacquerware and chests that are beautifully decorated. Last but not least, we installed the frame of a Balinese door to separate the kitchen from the rest of the boat. What is your absolute favourite destination that Magia II cruises to and why? So far I’ve only been to Komodo and Flores, but soon I will visit Raja Ampat and the Spice Islands. The Indonesian

islands are truly unique and mysterious and the sea is richer than anywhere I have seen. The people are pure and kind as in few other places in the world, but then I suppose they are born in paradise. Every island has its own culture, language and unique patterns displayed on the fabrics. They cover several time zones and harbour different religions. I hope that the people will be able to protect this country and the nature. It is their duty as much as it is the visitors'. In your opinion, what sets Magia II apart from other luxury cruisers in Indonesia? Every boat owner has a particular relationship with his boat. When it comes to wooden boats, I have the impression they are alive. The wood is a moving element and this makes wooden boats different from the metal ones. I will not talk of plastic boats, because if the Lord wanted us to sail on plastic, he would have made the trees of plastic (this is a famous quote that is well known among wooden boat owners, lol). Magia II is a work of love and care, and she has a design that I have not seen anywhere else. While building her, we always had comfort and beauty in mind, so our guests have the best possible experience while exploring the archipelago. She also shares the name of my first boat in the hopes that she brings a little bit of Mediterranean magic to the Indonesian seas. This also marks the fact that she is part of our family and we will take good care of her. Oh, and I believe we are the only boat that has a Jacuzzi on the terrace, so there’s that too. www.themagicsailing.com

Inspired by pleasure craft of the 1960s, Magia II is a stunning teak luxury yacht that sails to exotic islands and dive sites around the Indonesian archipelago. Owner Jacopo sat down with us to give some insight into the inspiration behind the unique design, decor, and destinations.

pure Magic.

passions

the family that surfs together stays together. luiz sanchez meets hugo and indra from In Da Surf Camp Canggu, where a sense of community and family reigns supreme. images: nikola kostic.

indra, hugo and bebs.

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Bali is full of great surf schools. Over the past decade surf camps have sprung up across the island offering surf safaris and accommodation for backpackers and budding surfers, and this has proven to be a wildly popular venture. Six years ago, Hugo – a Russian lady from Vladivostok – and her Balinese partner Indra sought to start their own surf camp in Canggu when they realized that surf camps by and large were lacking in something they saw as essential: a sense of family and community. The result – In Da Surf Camp & School – became unique in this regard . . . because it's designed to be more like a home than a business. “We didn't consider it a business at all," said Hugo, "we just wanted to share our vision, knowledge and lifestyle with our friends and other travelers. I know it isn’t typical to start a business without a concrete business plan, a budget or experience, but our desire to try was strong. When people asked us what the plan was, we were like, well, we have no plan, we are just going to try it out and see how we go. We basically expanded our home and welcomed people there.” “Seven years ago I was living in Russia working for a Korean government organization,” Hugo recalls. “Life was hectic and I was unhappy, so I decided to travel around and found myself in Bali.” Hugo met her partner Indra at the airport on her arrival. He was assigned to pick her up and the two quickly formed a deep connection. What was meant to be a holiday ended as a permanent stay when the two rented their first home and Indra considered opening his own surf camp. Indra has been a surfer his entire life. His passion for the island, his culture, and the sea had a definitive impact on the vision they had for their business. This would be a surf camp that would espouse core tenets of Balinese philosophy: family, community and the environment. “We don’t want to just make money,” Indra explains. “We wanted to create a community. We have many guests that have been coming back often for the past six years because they feel at home here. We cook together, surf together and teach them about Balinese culture and customs.” The couple have two children who have been raised at the surf camp. Their kids were a welcome addition as guests and staff quickly became surrogate family to the children. Guests staying at In Da Surf can expect to be welcomed warmly by both Hugo and Indra, but they will also find that everyone there is keen to showcase local Bali culture. “We don’t run official events very often,” Indra explains. “But we cook a lot and host movie nights, or if there are

special celebrations like Galungan or Nyepi we make sure to include our guests in them. Often after a big surf our instructors will go to the market and buy fresh ingredients to cook their meals, and the guests are curious about it and want to try the food. It's not uncommon for our guests to end up in the kitchen with us learning how to make different kinds of sambal, or to sit with our staff to learn about the canang sari offerings we put out every day.” To Hugo it is vitally important to impart this knowledge on the tourists visiting the island. “Bali has so much culture, and such a rich history that many people coming here don’t get to experience properly,” Indra says. “I love this island and we really want our guests to see the real Bali, and to appreciate the culture that is so welcoming to outsiders.” Hugo and Indra’s approach to life is quite different. Hugo’s dedicated work ethic makes her perfectly suited to running a business, whereas Indra’s more laid back and carefree demeanor, coupled with his passion for surf and love of Balinese culture, allowed for the creation of an environment that was really warm and welcoming to guests. In their personal lives these approaches have also helped both of them learn a great deal about how to tackle life. “I would say Indra has taught me how to relax and not stress so much, while he has become a really hard worker that really steps up for the family,” Hugo says. All of their surf instructors have first aid certifications, as well as several International Surfing Association certifications. “We are very curious people and love to learn,” she says. “We have grown a lot over the past six years both professionally and personally, and we expect the same from our team. We want to be surrounded by strong, professional people that are hungry for knowledge and growth.” Hugo and Indra support their staff by giving them constant training and education. “I want people who work for us to feel good here,” Indra says. “If we have a cohesive team and a good atmosphere then our guests will feel it and enjoy their stay even more.” In Da Surf is not your typical surf camp. This isn’t an instagrammeable place with smoothie bowls and avocado toast. It’s a home, a community, a place you stay at to learn how to surf, yes, but one which you leave with a deeper respect for the culture of Bali, and a new place to call home. www.indasurf.com

join the passion project at in da surf, canggu.

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venting in a villa luxe out under canvas at sandat glamping tents, where originality and flair meet in the ricefields. words: ondy Sweeting. images: Stefano ScatĂ .

glamp.

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Tucked deep in the forest of Ubud is a glamping destination where luxury and nature converge in exquisite Italian design. Sandat Glamping Tents – Bali’s original glamping destination, is a passion project that sizzles with the personal style and a flare for interiors of owners Emanuela and Frederico. It is an elegant destination that exudes ample chic and is as welcoming as it is casual. It delivers a romantic interlude enveloped in splendor and the landscape. Sandat has five uniquely designed glamping tents and three traditional Indonesia lumbungs – two-level rice store houses – with a series of hidden away spaces where couples can get cosy or singles can chill in privacy. Garden pathways to the tents meander through stone steps and jungle foliage. In the grassy lawn beside an mesmerising succulent garden is an antique day bed bedecked with a dozen cushions and veiled with sheer curtains while on the other side of a massive bamboo structure that is the restaurant, are more tucked away corners. At the centre of Sandat is a captivating bamboo structure that houses the restaurant, bar and kitchen. Soaring ceilings are juxtaposed against the most elegant of interiors with a gently serpentine staircase mirrored by a curved wall where 101 mirrors of different shapes and style are hung and defends guests’ glorious vision from the busy kitchen. The toilet is a tribute to the owners love of cycling with the wash basin sunk into an entire vintage push bike and other retro memorabilia decorating the walls.

The tents have screen windows with canvas curtains that are tied back to let in the gentle breeze, capture the lush green views and the ambient sound of nature the floods the space. Banishing TV was an excellent decision. Every tent has a private pool, which is bigger than a plunge pool, plus sun lounges and an open air ‘sexy shower’. Occasionally it is possible to hear a new arrival marvelling at their smarts for booking such a place, but that quickly dies down as the birds chirp, monkeys chatter and the breeze whispers through the tropical forest. It is inside the Sandat tents that the true luxury of the retreat declares itself with leather and steel chairs, and a circular centre bed, original art, powerful air conditioner, a fridge and implements for tea and coffee making. Copious fresh flowers uplift the room as do the canang sari – or little Balinese offerings to the gods which are packed with goodies such as flowers, fruit and rice. Little bedside lamps made from shells dot the low tables and a fabulous big-top circus style shower curtain in bold black and white stripes conceals a fully equipped power shower above a stone floor carved to contain and drain water. It’s shockingly fabulous with a marvel of an antique wire framed chandelier perched above the entire fantastic scene. A canvas wardrobe, with a safe and swirlingly girlish wire coat hangers, separates the bedroom from the bathroom. All five tents are individually designed and one has opulent two peacock chairs either side of a coffee table while another has bamboo wardrobes, a four poster bed and strings of pearls and cocktails jewels as decorative accents.

Sandat is quirky and fun. An interior tree has dozens of decorative mirrored mobiles dangling from every branch in the dining room that has a long central shared dining table plus seating for couples and groups of four. A library is tucked into a corner with a soft sofa and coffee table loaded with candle twinkling in the night light. This elegant building was created with the help of an architect and local artisans helping Emanuela and Frederico realise their dream of creative a peaceful escape. They had already made a success of their first glamping venture in the rural borders of Venice in Italy.

Tropical safari with more than a dash of Italian style is in full flight at Sandat where every convenience is located deep in nature.

The tents are dotted throughout the property in such a way that maximises privacy and the beautiful jungle views. Access is via small paths that wind through flowering gardens and mature trees. Indigenous Indonesian wooden rattles are used to attract the attention of staff, who will come at dusk to light candles upon the path and timber deck upon which the tent is secured. Waking at night to see these tiny lights is like a fantasy dream.

With a capacity to accommodate about 20 people throughout the tents and the lumbungs – which has a large shared swimming pool, Sandat has to be one of Bali’s most beautiful wedding destinations.

Dining at Sandat is a must with the local chef well versed in Italian cuisine and executes an excellent spaghetti carbonara. The level of detail is impressive from glittering glasses to jugs of chilled water provided on arrival, to the series of healthy vitamins supplements are available at the impressive breakfast buffet. Massages are booked to order directly to the tent and yoga instruction can be arranged.

www.glampingsandat.com

a true original.

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sounds around bali's most famous cliff club turns two. and what a ride it's been, writes Luiz Sanchez.

omnipotent.

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omnia Bali has been around for nearly two years, and is already an iconic staple in Uluwatu. The now famous cliff club hit the ground running when it first opened, securing world famous djs Martin Garrix, Marshmello and Richie Hawtin for their grand opening. Then just six months later they stunned the crowds with an unforgettable set by none other than Dj Tiesto.

Hugo is going to continue unveiling new concepts and contents for Omnia this year. “In March we have our first big weekend, which will be a fully programmed weekend with performances by Above & Beyond (March 7) and Black Coffee (March 8).” Omnia is also introducing yoga sessions, as well as extreme golfing that uses 100% biodegradable golf balls made of fish food.

Omnia includes their iconic Cube bar, the club itself and the delectable Sake no Hana restaurant. All three have won a series of awards since they opened, a marker of their initial and continued success in Bali. As Omnia nears its second year of operation, I sat down with venue head Paul Hugo to talk about the past two years and the amazing success the venue has enjoyed.

Omnia is also gearing up to partner with a host of hotels, as well as cross-promotional activities with local businesses in an effort to support local enterprise. “We are really trying to encourage our guests to come and stay in Uluwatu for the weekend,” Hugo says. “It is truly a wonderful part of the island, with so much to explore and discover, and great places to stay.” With Omnia in Uluwatu of course, great food and parties can be added to that list. “We have so many more ideas and exciting projects coming up, we are just getting started.”

Back in 2018, in their first year running Omnia got off to a great start, winning The Yak Magazine’s award for Best Newcomer, Best Bar and Best Restaurant. In 2019 they also won Best Event for Phoenix Sundays, which curated an all-day experience combining food, fun and funky beats. Hugo remains humble about the continued success. “We didn’t set out to win awards,” he says. “Our aim is always to provide the best experience possible for our guests and a positive working environment for our employees, but of course it is always nice to be recognized for all the hard work that the team puts into running the venue.” Running a tight ship is one of Omnia’s strengths. Their staff are not only being constantly trained to provide guests with the best experience possible, but they are also respected and well taken care of, creating a work environment that is both extremely professional and feels like a coherent family unit. Every year new clubs rise and fall across the island, each bringing with them their own unique edge trying to get ahead of the competition. Not content to rest on their laurels, Omnia has big plans for the future. “We still consider ourselves new to Bali,” Hugo says. “We have a lot to learn, and we hope a lot to offer as well. We are striving to improve all the time and our goal is to craft a worldclass experience for our guests from the moment they arrive at the venue to the moment they leave; we are constantly working on all aspects of the business to continuously improve and evolve.” This year Omnia invited the global streaming service platform Cercle to come and broadcast Lee Burridge performing at the Cube at sunset. With hundreds in attendance and over four million views, the event was a smashing success. “It was spectacular,” Hugo recalls. “Holding special events like this really pushes our boundaries and helps us to continue to evolve and build a broader international awareness of the venue.”

Omnia is part of the Hakkasan group, which operates dozens of venues and restaurants around the world including the original Omnia nightclub in Las Vegas. This connection is what has allowed Omnia to pierce the market so quickly, attracting so many talented Djs to their venue in such a short amount of time. “We are lucky to have the power that brings behind us,” Hugo says. “But beyond that artists love playing at our venue. Literally everyone that has played here has been amazed by the space. For context, we sit atop a cliff, 100 meters above the Indian Ocean, we are blessed with a positive climate more or less all year round, and our venue is world-class in terms of design and production values.” Indeed, Omnia’s brand presence has skyrocketed over the past two years, becoming a recognized destination venue. “We have major artists coming to us to perform at Omnia all the time now, and those who have played here before love to come back,” Hugo says. Omnia’s two-year anniversary is coming up in April, and this year they have really outdone themselves. April starts with a live performance by the hip hop star Tyga on Saturday, April 4. Then on April 11 the award-winning Dj and producer Zedd will grace the stage. The following Friday Martin Garrix returns to Omnia to rock the house, followed by Yellow Claw on Saturday. “We will round the month off with one of the biggest names in the house music scene, Claude von Stroke, on Sunday, April 25,” Hugo says. “We pride ourselves on our diverse programming, and hopefully our anniversary month delivers something for everyone.” www.omniaclubs.com/bali

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taken not stirred

Karen Donald talks to Christophe Beau, Managing Director of Diageo Indonesia, about why the company believes so passionately in local culture. photo: ryerson anselmo, costes portrait.

diageo's new tabanan offices.

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Christophe, can you tell us what is Diageo and how does it operate within Indonesia? Diageo is a British multinational alcoholic beverage company with a 180 offices worldwide, including Indonesia. Diageo Indonesia produces world-renowned brands such as Smirnoff Vodka, Captain Morgan, Smirnoff Ice, Mr Dowell’s and Gilbey’s at our Bali production office. In addition, Diageo Indonesia has been very successful in brewing Guinness locally for many decades through our partner MBI, and successfully commercialising it through our associate’s PT DIMA. How big is the demand for alcohol from the Indonesian market? Diageo always believed in the Indonesian market. When we realised there was a demand from here, we chose to produce through a third party: PT Multi Bintang, and through our own facility in Bali. But in addition to this, Diageo always puts effort into making sure our consumers have access to quality alcohol, and we promote ‘positive drinking’ through a responsible drinking campaign. In addition, we also educate and train the frontline (bartenders) to be more responsible when serving, especially our brands. Why did Diageo decide to establish roots in Bali? Diageo is very proud to be in Indonesia and foresees a lot of great opportunities for our business to grow in this market. We all know that Bali is the centre of the entertainment and leisure ‘pulse’ in the country. By establishing our roots here we are getting closer to Bali, and can apply various objectives, including cutting carbon emissions from our distribution process. How does Diageo collaborate with local communities? Diageo is extremely conscious about leaving a positive impact on the local community. On our first business trip we spent hours with Balinese village leaders discussing what they wanted, and how we could help them grow. One expectation was regarding Diageo’s responsibility to manage the operation: whether in maintaining quality of water or managing our waste. We have continued to strengthen the community relationship through some of our initiatives, such as our Ecotourism Sustainable Development Programmes where Diageo and partners develop skills of people in the nearby Nyambu Village in Tabanan (where our office is located) to establish an ecofriendly new tourism spot in Bali. Why did Diageo recently renovate the Bali office? The newly renovated Bali office shows a commitment to improving the Diageo working environment by reflecting our position as a ‘creative and innovative thinking hub’, allowing all employees access the same opportunities, to express themselves and contribute to the business. We wanted to be seen as a 21st century company respecting local culture in line with our global strategy. Diageo is also committed to running its business in Indonesia responsibly and it has a significant and long-term positive impact to stakeholders as the one of best providers of Consumer-Packaged Goods. Tell us about the concept of the new office? Our new office design is in line with Diageo values, with a big

focus on the community. We want to make sure people feel at home in a modern space; motivated and valued for their own diversity. Everybody is here to communicate with each other and facilitate the flow of information and knowledge, and we believe – as we have tested in our market – that this model is an effective way to do business today. I am personally proud because the manufacturing industry is not an easy environment to transform. How does Diageo Indonesia’s new office promote Indonesian culture? We worked with the Bali-based interior designer Melati Danes to bring our office to life and achieve an ‘authentic look and feel’ from Indonesia. Diageo is not here to promote British culture, we are here to learn from an amazing country of 17,000 islands, each of which shows us how to value diversity and ethnicity, as the motto ‘Unity in Diversity’ suggests. We incorporated the batik graphic into some of our Guinness packaging and regional songket, carvings, and rattan handicraft ensures that when people come to the office, it’s obvious they’re visiting Diageo Indonesia in Bali. How do you create a stimulating workplace environment? We employ people with a variety of personalities, experiences and perspectives. Diageo is at the forefront of bringing gender diversity into the workplace with 40 percent of the leadership team being women. We also have a progressive parental-leave policy to support quality parenting. Under the policy, new mothers have 26 weeks paid leave and new fathers have four. By giving both mother and father leave we help them enjoy the birth of their child, adding to a healthy workplace environment when they return. You have an office bar and Happy Hour? How does that work? Certain activities like our ‘Diageo Bar Night’ encourage employees to enjoy a relaxed way of interacting and sharing ideas in an informal environment. What really matters to us is fostering the team in a healthy culture and if you want to build culture you have to socialise, and we believe that because of our industry what better opportunity during the week than to have a ‘One Day A Week Happy Hour’. It helps people to get know each other better and disconnect from work. We incentivise our employees to bring a friend because we want people to know more about Diageo and discover our product. It’s also a great opportunity to infuse the team with knowledge on responsible drinking. How has Diageo raised levels of employee engagement? We managed to elevate employee engagement to 84% because employees look forward to learning and contributing to Diageo. They feel proud to work for us. To declare “I work for Diageo in Indonesia” is not always easy because there can be a social stigma attached to working for an alcohol beverage company. But when an employee wants to be an ‘ambassador’ it's easier for them to feel proud. We live by the motto 'Celebrating life, every day, everywhere'.

Christophe Beau.

www.diageo.com 109

taken not stirred katrina valkenburg delves into the dark past of the world's most intoxicating cocktail.

red devil.

There is nothing humble about the Negroni, it belongs to an esteemed group of cocktails with a traceable history that goes back to the beginning of the 20th century. Many drinks historians have unearthed snippets of its beginnings but none to date are definitive. The most commonly held belief is that it all began at Bar Casoni in Florence in 1920 where Count Camillo Negroni, who was a regular, ordered an Americano – sweet vermouth, Campari and club soda from the bartender, Fosco Scarselli, but asked him to beef it up with gin to replace the soda. We know that it was around October 1920 as a letter from a friend at that time suggests that "he must not take more than 20 Negronis in a day”!

After this time, there is little mention of the Negroni until the end of WWII, when Mussolini and his fellow Fascists, who had ruled Italy from 1922-1945, had been ousted. Not long after that the heady cocktail resurfaced in Italian publications. During the war, a period of austerity, even the word ‘cocktail’ had been banned. Such degenerate and foreign habits such as cocktail-drinking were way too loose and lively for the strictly-disciplined brown shirts. By 1947 an actual recipe was printed in Cocktail Portfolio and it’s the Classic Negroni: 1/3 gin, 1/3 vermouth, 1/3 Campari, on the rocks with a twist of orange and a splash of soda.

Other patrons of the bar, many of them American tourists, then began to order ‘the drink of Count Negroni’ and the ascent of the Negroni to the international stage of mixology began.

At the end of this same year, Orson Welles, who was filming in Rome, wrote to the American gossip columnist Erskine Johnson about the ‘Negronis’ he was drinking where he described the drink accurately, adding that the “bitters are excellent for your liver, the gin is bad for you” and that “they balance each other out”. Johnson added the note in his column which was widely syndicated.

Count Camillo Negroni, who had English blood and had just returned from the Wild West of Montana and Alberta in the United States where he rode broncos, was a tough man by all accounts and the simple Americano was just not cutting it. He was also a professional gambler and a fencing instructor in New York.

Italian-American bartenders took to the Negroni like the proverbial duck to water – besides being an incredibly well-balanced drink, it’s also a cocktail that’s almost impossible to make badly. No matter whether you’re in a restaurant or bar in Bali, a local cafe on the banks of the Mekong in Luang Prabang or a chic up-town bar in New

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York, you’re bound to find a Negroni. The vibrant red hue of the drink is both sophisticated and simple at the same time and is definitely for a grownup palate, being too bitter for many. It has a complex, somewhat challenging flavour and makes the perfect aperitif. The recipe given above is the standard but as Alice Lascelles adds in her Ten Cocktails, “If you’re feeling really cocky, you can even alter the balance of the formula without putting yourself in mortal danger – just make sure you always observe that holy trinity of earthy/spicy (vermouth), bittersweet/syrupy (Campari) and strong/clean gin, vodka or even blanco tequila can work – although gin is always the best, I think.” There are only a small number of no-no’s when it comes to making a Negroni: never shake with ice, never add lemon and try to keep the ratios even. Do serve in an Old Fashioned glass, use a chilled cut-crystal beaker to stir the spirits, pour over an orb of ice and char the orange skin to release more of the essential oil and voilà, a great quaff is guaranteed. Look out for the Negroni Week event in Bali, 31st of May. TBC.

oral pleasures

In deepest Seminyak is the wackiest burger joint in town. images: lucky 8. words: Ondy Harvard. pretty in pink at wah wah burger.

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ravioli or pumpkin ravioli, sun-dried tomato pesto gnocchi and truffled porcini basil gnocchi. The spaghetti ‘bol’ is made from crushed tempe, zucchini, carrot, shallot, garlic and tomato.

Where else in Bali can a fat juicy vegan burger compete with a wagyu burger adorned with foie gras? Wah Wah Burger in not really a streetside restaurant but an institution of creativity and fun. It dishes up delicious vegan food and meaty delights with wonderful wine and icy beer.

The menu is complex and creative enough to delight the most die-hard of Canggu’s vegan community. It pleases the most prickly diner with multiple gluten-free and dairy-free dishes while MSG, fake colouring and fake flavours are banished from the kitchen.

Expect huge images of Eisenstein, glittering shell chandeliers, neon pink lights, Chesterfield-backed banquettes, big mirrors, black and white-striped cushions and a bird's eye view for people watching. Look out for an Insta-swing that is in the planning stages.

The five-in-one topless baby wagyu burger tasting platter is a long-held favourite that has two-bite sliders with mini-Australian prime wagyu patties topped with delicacies like quail egg and foie gras. This dish comes in lighter versions where you can select three, four or five mini slider versions of Wah Burgers' premium wagyu range.

The motto at Wah Wah Burger is: ‘Vegan vs Carnivore – who is to say? Vegetarians R Rabbits – Carnivores R Not Human”. It’s all good fun and makes great Insta optics. The menu is vast and embraces dairy-free, gluten-free, vegetarian, vegan and pure omnivore. Drinkers of fine wines, cocktails, beers and those who are tee-total will also rejoice.

For those who do not want a burger – then why are you at Wah Wah Burger? – the menu is packed with choices from BBQ pork ribs to soups and truffled mac and cheese. There is even a degustation menu of Wah’s most popular dishes paired with wine. Wah Wah’s wine list is a pretty picture and has some classic choices by the glass to match this amazing burger experience.

“I took my son for lunch at a vegan restaurant and I said “no meat” and my son was miserable," says the owner Wah, a Bali expat of decades standing. "I’ll never take him to a vegan restaurant again." Wah is a people person with a tonne of hilarious charm that is sometimes a trademark among restaurant owning and entrepreneurial Hong Kong Chinese. Emblazoned on the staff polo shirts is the aphorism ‘Wah d’ f#@*’.

Inside the front cover of the menu, both bad and good Trip Advisor reviews have been reprinted without fear or favour with Wah explaining how the big ticket prices for premium items come about by using the best ingredients, with some simple dishes such as potato wedges going through as many as five steps before landing in front of a guest.

“We want the best of both worlds for vegans and carnivores. There is no place where everyone can be happy. So I took the idea to my kitchen and said that we need a place where a couple – a vegetarian or vegan girl and meat-eating boyfriend can go together and both enjoy it,” says Wah.

“No corners are cut and no expense is spared down to the smallest detail of the pink rock salt from the Himalayas,” says Wah who noted his burgers will never be made from a frozen beef patty of DNA unknown.

The result is pretty spectacular. The Deep Purple Burger is possibly the best vegan burger around with a thick veggie patty whose recipe is a closely kept secret. However, it is possible to detect plenty of herbs , purple kale, broccoli, purple sweet potato, roasted pumpkin, sunflower seeds topped with a rich tomato reduction, caramelised onion, fresh rucola and a mustard mayo. This is one meaty burger that is pure vegan. It is so big that one order could easily feed two, if not three yoginis. The two leading vegan burgers are colour coded with the One & Only Green Burger being free from GMO with a patty made from tempe and corn fritter and served with papaya and carrot pickles, a vegan mustard mayo and caramelised onion. The “Schroom” burger patty is a mix of crushed cauliflower and zucchini, sweet potato, roasted garlic, chives, shallots and a shitake mushroom compote. Also on the vegan menu is a smashed spicy tempe burger that is packed with herbs and pan-roasted. More vegan choices include mushroom gluten-free

Omnivores are deluged with choice burgers that include butterfish, pulled pork on a charcoal bun, philly steak burger, sea crab thermidor burger and zero fat chicken burger. Desserts also stretch to accommodate vegans with dairy free gelato sundae and black rice pudding while flexitarians can go for dark chocolate lava cake or sticky date lava cake. Vietnamese street food has a place on the menu with young papaya pickle Banh-Mi, Corn fritters Banh-Mi, grilled GMO-free tempe Banh-Mi.

from top: Wagyu sliders, beer humour and vegan choices.

A sneaky vegan pho soup also pops up on the menu. In Wah lore it is created from an ancient Buddhist recipe of shitake mushrooms, bean sprouts, seaweed, coriander, holy basil, mint and parsley in a soup with rice noodles. Why would we not believe him? https://wahrepublic.com 113

oral pleasures

h e av e n s e n t get your ducks in line at bebek timbungan, WHERE ORIGINAL BALINESE CUISINE IS AHEAD OF THE CROWD, writes stephanie mee. images: lucky 8

Bebek Timbungan on Sunset showcases the very best of local flavours.

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It’s funny how authentic Balinese cuisine isn't as prevalent as you would think at restaurants in Bali. Sure you can find ayam betutu or babi guling at select spots, but most dishes at your typical restaurant or warung actually come from other parts of Indonesia. If you really want to sample true Balinese flavours and recipes that originated on the island, you have to specifically seek them out. Bebek Timbungan is one of only a handful of restaurants in Bali dedicated entirely to Balinese culinary heritage. The restaurant first opened in the Secret Garden complex in Bedugul with the goal of showcasing the uniqueness of Balinese cuisine from all over the island, and it became so popular that the owners later opened a second location on Sunset Road. The menu at Bebek Timbungan takes its inspiration from the Dharma Caruban, an ancient lontar scroll that outlines how to make various Balinese dishes including basa gede, the spice paste that is central to so many recipes. Many of the dishes are traditionally eaten during special occasions or were reserved for royalty in the past, so they are different to what you usually find at your run-of-the-mill warung. All of the menu items are designed to share, so the best way to experience the restaurant is to come with family, friends or colleagues and order a variety of dishes. That way you get a great balance of cooking styles and flavours and a better understanding of the diversity of Balinese cuisine. The Sari Segara Sup Bening is a great start to the meal. This clear seafood soup features squid, snapper, prawn and subtle hints of ginger, lemongrass, lime and basil. The Sup Ares & Calon Ayam is another good option with chicken meatballs and tender slices of young banana leaf topped with crispy garlic and shallots. Moving on to mains, the signature dish is the eponymous Bebek Timbungan. Bebek means duck and timbungan refers to a style of cooking where meat or fish is mixed with spices and herbs and placed in a bamboo tube and slow cooked for hours over charcoal. The result is beautifully smoky, moist duck that falls off the bone. It comes with sides of long beans and three different types of Balinese sambal. Other enticing mains include the crispy duck with vegetables tossed with shredded coconut, the Ayam Betutu (smoked chicken), and the Sapi Panggang Sambal Matah, which features slices of grilled sirloin topped with a raw sambal made with sliced chilies, shallots, lemongrass, shrimp paste and lime juice. For sides,

the blanched starfruit leaf salad makes for a tasty and toothsome addition to the meal. The seafood selection is also superb with offerings like local mussels grilled over charcoal and topped with a sweet peanut sauce, wok-fried crab seasoned with lemongrass, lemon juice sauce and salted duck egg, and the Ikan Tambusan Bali Lawas Genit, a whole fish marinated in basa gede, then baked and served with spicy water spinach and sambal. If you do come with a group, we highly suggest trying the Megibung set menu. Megibung refers to a communal style of eating where people come together to share a variety of dishes served on banana leaves. It dates back to the 17th century when the king of Karangasem insisted on eating with his soldiers during war time to promote a spirit of togetherness and equality. The megibung menu at Bebek Timbungan starts with a refreshing herbal drink called Lolo Daun Cemcem, then a massive platter of dishes including the restaurant’s famous Bebek Timbungan, deep fried prawns, seafood soup, two different types of Balinese satay lilit with minced fish and minced chicken, two kinds of vegetables, yellow rice, and three kinds of sambal. A visit to Bebek Timbungan wouldn’t be complete without trying at least one of their Balinese desserts like the rujak with sliced tropical fruits in a spicy palm sugar dressing or the bubur injin, a black rice pudding with coconut and palm sugar. Pair it with a Black Eye coffee made with Indonesian beans roasted on site. The Pisang Goreng Panas Dingin is the chef’s own creation and it features fried bananas rolled in piping hot caramel, then dunked into ice water to give the bananas a crunchy, cool exterior while keeping them warm inside. It adds a modern touch to a menu that is otherwise steeped in history and makes for a unique way to finish a meal of authentic dishes you won’t find in many other places. www.facebook.com/bebektimbunganbali

the real deal.

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oral pleasures beach brunch at mano. yes.

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a hungover stephanie mee nurses her soul at the always wholesome mano beach club. images: lucky 8.

If there’s any better way to spend a Sunday afternoon than brunching by the beach, I don’t know what it is. There’s just something about the combination of indulgent food and drinks with ocean breezes and views that immediately puts you in relaxation mode. Plus, it’s a great hangover remedy, which is exactly what I needed on a recent Sunday after a few too many libations the night before. With an equally hungover friend in tow, we set off to find something laid-back and unpretentious where we could linger leisurely over great food and maybe have a few hairof-the-dog drinks. A spectacular setting was also a bonus, and we were thinking some chill music would soothe our sore heads. Mano Beach House was the perfect solution. Set on a quiet stretch of Petitenget Beach, Mano Beach House has always been somewhat of a hidden gem. It’s close to all the action of Seminyak, yet far enough removed from the bustle that you almost forget that you’re in one of Bali’s busiest areas. Even the entranceway and building subtly blends into the beachy surroundings with natural, earthtoned materials. Step inside and you find yourself in a brilliant bohemian styled space. Bleached wood and white stone abound and African-inspired artworks grace the walls of the open-sided dining room. A large patio has a plunge pool, beanbag chairs and sun shades made from thatch. While the sun loungers at the front look enticing, we make a beeline to the bamboo-covered deck that offers direct views of the sand and sea.

Throughout the week, Mano is open from breakfast until late and offers up a contemporary menu of international dishes made from premium local ingredients. However, on Sundays there is a special à la carte brunch menu that runs from 9am to 3pm and includes all sorts of enticing eats ranging from brekkie classics like eggs benny and avocado toast to fresh salads, burgers, and seafood.

We’re also huge fans of the Reuben toastie, which features sourdough bread filled with house made beef pastrami, tangy pickled cabbage and gooey Emmental cheese. It’s grilled like a panini and served with a dollop of garlic aioli. We pair ours with a side of the loaded fries, which are a tad gluttonous, but so worth it. The crispy fries are topped with pulled pork, spicy mayo and aioli. Definitely a good hangover helper.

Add the Bottomless Drinks option to your brunch and you can enjoy unlimited alcoholic drinks for two hours. The select drinks include mimosas, spritzers, sangria, cold beers, glasses of bubbly and Bloody Marys. They also have a great cocktail menu if you decide not to do the Bottomless Drinks, but still feel like a bevvie or two.

Live music can often be hit or miss, but the musician who comes on while we’re dining plays easy-going tunes that are smooth, soulful and not so loud that we can’t have a conversation. It actually adds to the experience instead of distracting from the beachside ambiance. In between his sets, a DJ takes over with feel-good beats.

We’re onboard with making our brunch boozy, so we start with a round of Bloody Marys that we can honestly say are some of the best we’ve had on the island. They come in tall glasses rimmed with cayenne pepper and salt and have the perfect ratios of ice to tomato juice, a healthy shot of vodka and dash of hot sauce. To top them off, each one gets a celery stick and a curl of crispy bacon.

Mano Beach House is one of those places that suits all types from families with kiddos who want to splash in the ocean or pool, couples on a Sunday brunch date, or hungover writers looking to get sorted after a big night out. They have tons of space including an upper level with additional seating, which also makes it a great option for groups. Reservations are recommended for larger groups or those who want to grab primo sea-facing tables.

The open-faced omelette is a solid choice if you’re in the mood for breakfast food. Big enough to share or fully sate one ravenous diner, the fluffy eggs are interspersed with chorizo, bacon, mushrooms, chunks of potato, and spinach. Parmesan cheese makes it melty and adds another layer of richness, and the grilled focaccia on the side is great for mopping up every last buttery bite.

www.manobali.com

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karen donald visits a fun bistro that combines fresh produce with a well deserved reputation for great french food.

O Lala Bistronomy is located right within the friendly community of Umalas, presenting simple homemade French cuisine with Mediterranean influences and a little tropical twist. It was created by Fabrice Capron, former chef at La Tomate on Réunion Island and proprietor Aurélien Chevalier to offer an “after work rendez-vous” for those living in the neighbourhood. Despite opening the same month as Mount Agung’s eruption in November 2017, Bali’s French gem has been immensely popular from day one. Located in the emerald paddy fields between Kerobokan and Canggu, O Lala has a great atmosphere with beautiful décor. Sit at the bar for a discussion among loved ones or dine out on authentic French food and excellent wine. “Fabrice and I have been friends since art school”, Aurélien recalls. “We are from the north of France; I worked previously as a movie director and online art director for my company and DDB. Fabrice had his clothes company – Stylist – and a restaurant on Réunion Island. We visited Bali for the first time 20 years ago and have lived here for six years now.” The restaurant's atmosphere is modern with rustic features to mimic traditional French country interiors. It seats 60 customers, including at the bar; a combination of open windows and A/C keeps the venue cool. Arrive at 6pm for a quiet meal, or 9pm to mix with a fun-loving crowd of expats and tourists. Fabrice and Aurélien believe in “Bistronomy”, which is all about enjoying quality ingredients and superb cooking in a warm, friendly environment. Bistronomy puts the emphasis back on using the best produce. There is no need for luxurious ingredients, it’s much better to use locally sourced, seasonal produce, supporting independent farming along the way. At O Lala you will find fresh, healthy ingredients made by French expats. According to Aurélien: “Bistronomy is a mix between Bistro and Gastronomy. Bistro food with a gastronomic twist. We include Mediterranean influences, (Italian, Spanish, North African) because they are important in French food. It makes sense to include them when you live under the sun!”

clockwise from top: traditional french bistrot fare (by lucky 8); unique interiors; streetwise in umalas and chef fabrice at work.

– melting in the mouth – while the wholesome Onion Soup with rustic bread is full of flavour. For the mains – you will not be disappointed with the classic Entrecôte Béarnaise (250gr of beef), the Tuna Tartare, or Limande Meuniere; try hearty Hachis Parmentier Beef with comforting mashed potatoes, candied onions, bacon crisps, and a Lyonnaise wine sauce, or the Moussaka Verde, definitely a hit on the menu for vegetarians. The Burrata & Rucola Salad with homemade burrata cheese will tickle your taste buds, alongside fresh tomato carpaccio, roasted cherry tomatoes with balsamic caramel. Not forgetting Lamb Medallions, with garlic cream, hazelnut oil, pea puree and asparagus. The menu is quite extensive, with daily specials like the fresh oysters from Java (six or 12 Pieces) to accompany your Champagne. Desserts are beautifully presented: Opera Cake is tempting, with classic French treats such as Lemon Meringue Tart, Caramel Custard, and Chocolate Fondant. Atmosphere and ambiance in the restaurant is cozy. Decked out with murals, soft lightning, a large bar and low tables for diving into an iced Expresso Martini or some Octopus Lemon & Olive Oil or Chorizo Con Tomate Tapas. Sip wine in comfort, with lanterns and sofas alongside French cuisine-lovers – a great place to mingle and meet the friendly expats of Bali. After dinner it gets lively, especially at weekends. If you’re looking for a busy place, then O Lala Bistronomy is an ideal spot. “Our only goal is that people have a good time,” Aurélien says. “We created the décor and mural ourselves. I did the artwork for the mural with Ogut (a Balinese painter). The interiors were created by Fabrice. We have DJ’s on Friday’s playing retro and post-modern tracks until 1am,” says Aurélien. “Funk, hiphop, disco and house music: it’s a Friday party! We have live acoustic guitar on Saturday nights, blues, Latin, jazz, and flamenco.” Cozily nestled in the village of Umalas – O Lala is among the best traditional French food options on the island, without a doubt. www.olalabali.com

Aurélien is often at O Lala to discuss the menu with customers or highlight the weekly specials and wine list. As per the Proprietors recommendation, try tasty entrées such as Scallops Au Gratin or Foie Gras Ravioles. The homemade Fish Ceviche is made to perfection, the Escargots Bourguignon-style are soft and smooth

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seafood sensation on the bukit.

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karma

stephanie mee greets the ocean at karma's new artisan seafood experience.

It’s pretty hard to top the feeling you get when you’re riding an inclinator down the side of a limestone cliff and watching a pristine white sand beach and aquamarine lagoon open up below you. I’ve been to Karma Beach Bali before and the grand entrance experience never gets old, but this time the anticipation is even more heightened because this beloved Bali beach club has recently undergone an impressive transformation. Karma Beach Bali is part of the Karma Kandara Resort, a spectacular clifftop playground featuring private-pool villas overlooking the Indian Ocean, a Mediterraneaninspired fine dining restaurant with an infinity pool, and the Cliff Spa with breezy relaxation bales that offer 180-degree views of sea and sky. The exclusive beach club sits far below on a powdery crescent of sand sheltered by the towering limestone cliffs.

One thing that hasn’t changed is the sublime beach fronting the restaurant and lounge. This little slice of paradise has to be one of the prettiest beaches in Bali, and thanks to Karma’s policy of only allowing a certain number of people in a day, it never gets crowded. Shade seekers can grab a lounger under an umbrella, sun seekers can settle into a beanbag on the sand, and water babies can head straight to the reef-protected lagoon to swim, snorkel, or do some stand-up paddling or sea kayaking. We’ve come around lunch time, so we grab a seat in one of the cushioned booths on the deck and peruse the newly upgraded menu. The culinary offerings are inspired by various Karma resort destinations around the world and feature fresh local ingredients including plenty of seafood. There are enticing small plates to share, as well as fresh salads, wood-fired pizzas, and hearty mains like pasta, whole fish, chicken and steak.

To be honest, I thought the previous incarnation of Karma Beach needed no improvements, but the new version takes the space to a whole new level. The expansive ocean-facing dining room now has more space with communal tables under a soaring thatched roof and bar seating lining the front of the restaurant. The expanded deck features semi-circular benches just a few steps up from the sand. Rustic wooden tables, beige and blue cushions, and a bamboo awning add to the beach-chic vibes.

We start with the salt and pepper calamari, which comes lightly battered and fried until golden crispy on the outside and tender on the inside. The squid ink aioli has just enough richness to complement the saltiness of the squid. The croquettes are another superb choice if you’re feeling indulgent. Each crunchy orb is skewered with a sundried tomato and cherry tomato and features an ample portion of smoked lamb leg inside. A smear of tzatziki under each croquette adds a refreshing touch.

New to the beach club is also a dedicated bar and lounge area with huge swinging chairs facing the water, wooden stools and tables, and a DJ booth where world-class artists spin soulful beats throughout the afternoon and into the evening. This is a great spot to chill out with a fresh juice or one of Karma’s tiki-style cocktails like the South Seas Punch, a heady mix of dark rum, apricot brandy, falernum, passion fruit purée, pineapple juice, bitters, and lemonade.

Karma’s artisan pizzas are a great choice if you’re looking for something to share at the table or want to please little ones. Each handmade pizza features a thin crust and fresh toppings that range from simple and straightforward to downright decadent. We opt for the latter and dig into slices topped with prosciutto, caramelised onions, truffle cream, hon jameji mushrooms, mascarpone, rocket, parsley and truffle oil.

Our final dish was the grilled local lobster and it was by far the star of the meal. Ringing in at 300 grams, the lobster is butterflied and grilled in the shell so the meat retains its succulence and flavour. It comes artfully plated on top of a colourful salad of baby potatoes, cucumber and cherry tomatoes. The side of tarragon aioli is tasty, but we don’t really need it considering the lobster is pretty much perfection on its own. After a leisurely lunch at Karma, there’s nothing better to do than enjoy the sun, sea and sand. I highly suggest staying on to catch one of the legendary sunsets that the Bukit is famous for. Plus, you can enjoy great Golden Hour drink specials every day from 5:30pm to 6:30pm. Karma also has regular special events like movie nights on the sand, beach bonfires, a bamboo seafood BBQ, and beach parties with killer beats by world-class DJs. I have to admit, riding the inclinator back up the cliff is bittersweet. Yes, the views are just as spectacular going up, but it’s not easy to leave this little corner of paradise. That being said, I know I’ll be back again soon. If you haven’t been to Karma in a while or have yet to make a trip there (gasp!), it’s time to add the new and improved Karma Beach Bali to your bucket list. www.karmagroup.com/karma-beach

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share the majesty.

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sarah douglas steps into the resplendent past at plataran canggu.

It’s a mystery to many why Indonesian food doesn’t have a higher profile around the world. One theory is that plating is not really a thing here. On this I have to disagree, the vibrant presentation of food for celebrations and ceremonies is truly awesome. The other theory is that there is no single Indonesian cuisine. This is true. Across the far-reaching archipelago each region has a distinctive cuisine, sometimes similar to others yet often strikingly different. Plataran, a locally-grown resort company with luxurious properties across Bali, Java and Flores, began with a restaurant and function centre in Jakarta. Sourcing their menus predominantly from Java (even within Java there are regional dishes that shine), the food is polished, sophisticated and delicious. Plataran Canggu now brings the menu from the capital to its beautiful main building, formerly the lobby, to create a new restaurant that showcases the very best Indonesian cuisine. Overlooking the terraced property, with views over the pool, large windows welcome the light and classical architecture brings sets the scene for elegant casual and formal meals. The menu is made for sharing. With many of the bestknown Indonesian dishes featuring here. From regional rice dishes to classic soups like the buntut (oxtail) to Garam Asem ( a thick, fragrant chicken soup with turmeric, chili and lemongrass), to the Pindang Serani ( salmon, carambola, pineapple, chili and tomato), the ingredients are often a revelation to those not familiar with these dishes. Having lunch with two Dutch students here highlighted what a journey eating this way is for the uninitiated. Many of the dishes tell fascinating stories of a time and place that are as compelling as they are exotic. For the Indonesians eating out is an occasion. The table is laid with a multitude of dishes, rice and crackers are laid out and guests create their own meal according to their personal taste. Plataran’s menu is laid out in this way, you can choose from the signature menu, 6-8 recommended dishes, or select from the à la carte menu.

In the shade of a traditional joglo, over 250 years old, an ornate central chandelier and a long, colonial-style bar, we enjoyed dishes both new and familiar. We began with a selection of appetisers. Bola Bola are fried croquettes made with chicken, squid celery, leek and coriander served with an intensely-flavoured peanut dipping sauce; Salad Putri Dewi is a refreshing mix of guava, jicama and oven-dried tomato with a sweet and spicy dressing. The salads sing with unusual ingredients that combine sweet, salty and spicy in beautiful harmony. For main course we chose from a number of favourites including a beautifully cooked Ayam Betutu, a Balinese dish made with chicken that is spiced, steamed and grilled in banana leaf. It was perfectly cooked and turned out to be a favourite with everyone at the table. We also chose a delicious basket of fried prawns, Udang Ramayana, redolent with garlic, and another chicken dish, Ayam Dharmawangsa which combined breaded chicken thigh with mango, pomelo and a sweet and spicy sauce. As a base, we ordered the red rice over the white and as tradition dictates, we were served crackers and sambal. Sitting here in this light-filled dining room with two guests whose experience with Indonesian food is mostly the nasi goreng or warung-style nasi campur (mixed rice), gave me a new appreciation of the intricacies of the menu and the inspired dishes. As this resort is located in Bali, a number of classic Balinese dishes feature on the menu including the Betutu. Javanese dishes tend to be milder, sweeter and more balanced where Balinese food is often quite fiery. It’s a matter of taste and that is what makes this culinary tradition a source of endless discovery. There is something for everyone and here in Bali, with so many locals coming from other regions, we have almost every cuisine represented.

architecture and culture in the most graceful way. With 21 villas, a beautiful spa, some truly magical events spaces and stunning landscapes, it’s a perfect introduction to Indonesia. The original villas and the gardens were designed by the late Made Wijaya, creator of some of the island’s most famous gardens and author of a number of books on Balinese architecture. The conversion of the former lobby into a restaurant space, is genius. The outlook is leafy and green, with the statue-lined pool below framed by tropical foliage, is an elegant venue for casual lunches, family events and romantic dinners. Indonesian sweets can be very sweet and so we took the advice of the Plataran team, and ordered a selection. Surprisingly they were subtle in flavour and beautifully presented. My lunch companions had a great laugh trying to figure out how to eat the Es Daluman, a traditional (and slippery) mix of green grass jelly, coconut milk and palm sugar. It takes a little practice. The Dadar Gulung, a pandan pancake stuffed with grated coconut sweetened with palm sugar, is a favourite among Indonesians and unlike any pancake the girls had tried before. While the Pisang Bakar Plataran was unexpectedly good – this was a new one for me as well. It’s a combination of roasted banana with cheddar rösti, almost like a toasted sandwich with layers of sweet and salty. Lunch at Plataran Canggu is a journey of discovery, of food that is both creative and traditional. It introduces elements of Thai cooking, exotic ingredients, skilful preparation and lots of dishes worthy of conversation. Each of us took something away from our lunch. Beyond the food, this really is an experience and a wonderful introduction to the more sophisticated side of Indonesian cuisine, for those that know and those that don’t. www.plataran.com

Plataran Canggu, tucked away in a quiet corner of Canggu, surrounded by jungle with a pretty river running through it, is a homage to Indonesian 125

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sarah douglas meets the duo tasked with defining the culinary journey at cafĂ&#x2030; del mar bali. images: lucky 8.

building dreams at CDM bali.

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Refining and defining a venue as large as Bali’s Café Del Mar is the job of many. Almost a year after they left their chilly London kitchens in search of new culinary adventures and warmer climes, Chefs Graeme Palmer and his long-time workmate Lani Greenhalgh are exhausted, exhilarated and still pouring all their creative juices into one of the biggest jobs of their lives. “We were well over London and we’d been following our friend, Chef Justin Dingle-Garciyya who was appointed as pre-opening chef at Café Del Mar, and starting to feel a little itchy to get back on the road. Bali was always on the menu for us so when he rang and asked us to join, we were in, no questions asked,” explains Australian-born pastry chef Lani. “We imagined farms and meeting fishermen, a proper adventure,” laughs Graeme, a Brit who has cooked around the world including Norway and Byron Bay. While naturally they were familiar with Ibiza’s Café del Mar, they imagined it quite differently. Instead of farms and ocean adventures, they arrived to find a construction site on the popular Berawa Beach. It was to be many months before Bali’s homage to Ibiza began to take shape. They cooked on their lap tops for many months, imagining a Mediterranean-inspired, Asian-influenced menu using local produce they would discover on their travels around the island. Before opening, Justin was off on another adventure (he’s currently at Six Senses Uluwatu), as Graeme and Lani were just finding their feet. Today, the beach club menu is done and the punters are loving it. At the sleek seaside restaurant within Café Del Mar a new menu is building on dreams and local ingredients to create destination dining that draws on its Spanish roots and looks to the future. With its 40th birthday coming up this year, there is a strong sense of tradition behind the beach club, and a venerable musical history. Combine this with Graeme’s love of ‘world food’ and Lani’s playful flavour combinations and it all adds up to a destination that plays skilfully from day to night. The beach club at Café Del Mar is vast, decked out in colours that mirror the original. The long horizon pool overlooking the beach is dotted with circular seating, a popular spot for VIPs. Sun beds spread out around the pool, mirroring the blue and white theme of the venue. A massive shell-like stage is home to international and local acts, playing out the house soundtracks that reflect the venue’s original Ibiza roots. At the opposite end a bistro leads to the airy white restaurant. With the bistro and the poolside Al Fresco menus ticking along, all the attention is now on the restaurant, due to open before the big birthday bash plays out on the shores of Berawa Beach. In a tribute to coastal dining, massive arches frame the sea views and an outdoor terrace is washed by sea

breezes and sunlight plays off the striking interiors of the stunning new restaurant space. This is where Graeme and Lani and their local team play out a time-honoured ritual that mingles menus and dishes in a challenge to create something original, unique and ultimately delicious. It’s not the first time these two have created a venue from the scratch. Graeme began his career with Gordon Ramsay at Claridges in London before moving on to the Mondrian and then crossing borders to work at Elements at Bryron Bay, where he teamed up with Lani and Justin. Next stop was the the prestigious Hayman Island resort. Both venues reflect Modern Australian cooking that shines in a seaside setting. Graeme and Lani teamed up again to create a fine dining restaurant on a converted fishing boat in Norway, before packing up their knives and heading to London where Graeme took on the role of head chef at the eclectic fine dining restaurant, Scully. Lani drifted into her role as pastry chef having worked at some of Australia’s best restaurants including Cutler & Co, Estelle and Fleet before signing up for Elements of Byron. It is there that Lani found her strength in the pastry kitchen. She then had the chance to really let fly in Norway before becoming the toast of London for her creative tarts at The Laughing Heart in London’s Hackney. Both claim they are well over fine dining and instead are now focussed on ingredient-driven food that veers more towards rustic. It’s clear that one of their favourite parts of this job is working with new ingredients, discovering new flavours and building on them. “It’s too easy to rely on expensive imported ingredients when we have some incredible produce to play with here, and new flavours to experiment with,” explains Lani. “ It also fits with the modern philosophy of using ingredients grown close to you. It’s more sustainable and reduces air miles, it’s also more challenging.” Feeding such a wide variety of people, from Indonesians and Asians to Europeans and Australians, comes with its own set of challenges. There is also the confusing concept of Instagram food, which adds a whole new element to plating. “I sometimes think guests are more interested in photographing the food than eating it,” laughs Graeme. Graeme grew up in a vegetarian household, his Dad is a vegan, so Café Del Mar’s menu features a delicious menu of dishes designed for vegans and vegetarians. With the increasing demand for plant-based menus, his dishes are bold and thoughtful rather than an afterthought. Early in his career the talented British chef underwent hypnosis to start eating meat again. “I used to taste the

dishes I was cooking but couldn’t come to actually eating it. One day after the hypnosis, I was chowing down on a steak. It worked,” he explains. He has perfected a vegan XO sauce which is used on some of his favourite dishes. He also has a non-vegan version. The menu features his jackfruit san choi bao along with a vegan ragù he has created using cauliflower and taro. Slow cooked, the result is every bit as satisfying and delicious as the meaty version. Lani has created her version of a vegan es telor, using natural food colouring on the distinctive layers. She favours natural colouring always and shuns the shiny, iridescent pastry shop offerings. Playing to the crowds, the beach club menu favourites include dramatic platters of wood-fired prawns with a locally-inspired flavoured butter; fried chicken with a house-made fermented chili sauce and the bestselling truffled wild mushroom pizza with mascarpone. Here you’ll also find a host of seafood dishes, including Graeme’s fish of the day, vibrant seafood platters, alongside classics from ceviche to burgers, steaks and tapas-style dishes that compliment beautiful, fresh salads and house-made charcuterie plates. Whimsical desserts featured include a playful Golden Gaytime, fashioned on the famous Australian ice cream. Here it appears as an ice cream sandwich with a brownie base, mingled with honeycomb. It’s Lani on a plate; familiar, rustic and creative. Her take on a Beng Beng, the local candy bar, is toothy, gooey and slightly salty all at once, something for the men she explains. The menu also features a few classics for crowd appeal, including the sublime Spanish Crème Catalan and a creative take on a tiramisu. “The tiramisu is made with coconut cream and brem to bring it in line with our philosophy of keeping it local,” explains Lani. Brem and arak are put to good use in this kitchen, as marinades and to fire up dishes. They have also been experimenting with local cheeses. They aren’t the same as the imported cheeses, but that is the point, they agree. The flavours are different and finding ways to incorporate them into their recipes, both sweet and savoury, is a journey of discovery. Together with an army of staff, including local chefs I Gede Ariwijaya (ex Mejekawi Restaurant) and Wirya Purnama (ex Potato Head/Katamama), shaping this new dining experience is no small task. The challenges involved with turning this incredible seaside dining room into a world class venue are what drives this team to continue evolving, creating, sampling new ingredients and creating a menu that they fully intend will be the talk of the town. www.cafedelmarbali.id

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Ondy sweeting checks out the menu at bali's newest nightspot.

Shi Shi Bali is the island's newest and most elegant clubbing destination with a superb supercharged restaurant delivering a crossbred Asian menu that is the food of gods. Under the talented direction of English-born and long-time Bali-based chef James Ephraim the kitchen is on fire and turning out wicked plates of delicately flavoured steamed wontons, Korean Fried Chicken, freshly shucked oysters, sushi, gyoza and real-deal caviar.

thought ‘what is pan Asian?’ and decided to narrow it down. A lot of the menu is Japanese inspired because it is so light and delicious,” says James. Expect to experience bonito flakes paired with truffle, miso with yams and turnip yuzu. Weaving these delectables with delicate white fish, rich slow cooked Wagyu beef cheek and briny shell fish is a master stroke that deserves a culinary medal.

Korean-style fried lamb rack is butter soft and flavour is enhanced with a dash of garlic and soya off set with the famed Anglo addition to lamb of mint. While wild The entire menu has been developed around the premise that guests will take a ride up Shi Shi’s dramatic mushroom matched with truffled noodles is meaty and delicious. A course of local slipper lobster in a sensuous glass elevator for some post prandial booty shaking in garlic and miso butter is simple and superb. the awesome nightclub and are not likely to want to eat a lavish curry before hitting the dance floor. The amuse bouche has yellow fin tuna topped with caviar served in a cone, while the sushi – which comes James spent months devising, developing and testing in some brilliant blends including grilled tiger prawn, dozens of dishes for the Asian bistro and late night tobiko and spicy lump crab – is served on a customdiner and it was almost set in print. Then he had a made, hand forged stand that is as beautiful an art form change of direction. as the sushi. “Just before we opened, I came into the kitchen and announced everything we had done was going. I didn’t As one would expect from James, condiments such as pickles, dipping sauces and hot roasted chili sauce are want it and we would start again,” says James. made in the kitchen from hand-picked produce that Such a move would likely traumatise most kitchen staff has to be the up to mark. who has practiced the menu from steaming buns to “I have always been mad about excellent ingredients. perfection right down to the positioning of the micro herbs when plating. But the Shi Shi team pulled behind They are the backbone of flavour and the best way to coax out the complexity of a particular dish. There is no him and back to the drawing board they went. point creating a dish if you do not have the right mix of The results are the evidence of a master manipulator of quality ingredients,” says James, who uses only specific types of chili for his piquant sauce. When it is at its best, ingredients and inspiration. he makes the chili sauce in bulk to ensure supply. Shi Shi’s menu is a series of share plates that showcase Shi Shi has a late night supper menu that is sectioned Ephraim’s skill at integrating Japanese cuisine into a into cheekily named ‘Foo King fried rice' and ‘Koo broader Asian menu. King noodles’; a section from the ocean and the land while entrees are named and shamed as ‘foreplay’. Shi “We had originally planned a pan-Asian menu – but

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Shi has six different types for ‘dirty Asian dumplings’, including two dishes that are vegan. In fact, given the upscale dining of Shi Shi, vegans have a great choice that covers tempe and mushrooms, vegetable fried rice, sushi rolls and wok-seared edamame. These dishes have been developed to deliver an intense energy hit packed with flavour that will underpin a night of carousing in the club and prep the guest to go back for more without feeling weighed down. Two desserts are on the late night supper menu including the astonishing yuzu cheesecake where James puts lime curd, honey shortbread, mango sorbet, lemon basil and olive crumble in the same glass and the flavours coalesce seamlessly. Shi Shi, which is in Petitenget, is a stunning multifunction destination set over several levels with various bars and a chic nightclub that has leather banquettes overlooking the dance floor. Given the popularity of these limited spots, it is best to get in early and reserve one for the night. Throughout the venue the abundant staff are well trained and know their subjects well from matching a wine with a spicy laksa to delivering chilled French champagne and caviar to a night club table. Nothing is too much trouble. The elegant interiors of Shi Shi are fashion forward down to the curve of the bar and the fabulous lighting. It is design porn at its best and addicts will want to explore Shi Shi as much as gourmets will explore the menu. Both aim to deliver pleasure. Both succeed. www. shishibali.com

the cocktails aren't too shabby either.

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taken not stirred

IWA bar

top: iwa bar at tugu bali. l-r: cocktails tambora, krakatau &merapi.

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sarah douglas discovers a cultural treat with cocktails to match the scene that engulfs batu bolong.

The contrast could not be more remarkable. The Canggu street that attracts a legion of surfers, hipsters and digital nomads overshadows the visionary Tugu that once held pride of place on this windswept surf beach. Tugu Hotel is a cultural island amidst the tourism wave that has all but swallowed it. A step to the right off Batu Bolong takes you into a world that is as mythical as it is vibrant, as fascinating as it is unique. It tells stories of another time and stands as the perfect antidote to the barely clad, the modern tribe that (dare we say it?) seems to ignore all cultures but their own. Pulling up to Tugu, a girl brushes past me. Wearing nothing but bright pink headphones and a tiny bikini, she strides purposefully towards the beach. She disappears quickly into the streetscape that is crowded with billboards and bars, busy cafes buzzing with conversation and Bintangs, with swarms of motorbikes creating a familiar soundtrack. This graceful hotel feels like a parallel universe; a tribute to Indonesian and Balinese culture, it was created to tell the stories of years gone by, of a culture that survives and thrives alongside the onslaught of tourism wherein worlds collide. For the first time visitor it can come as a shock that something this beautiful and reverential exists here. Tugu’s vast lobby has been transformed recently. Walls have been knocked out to reveal its serenity to the street, inviting unsuspecting travellers to discover what lies within. The huge bale that houses the lobby envelopes its guests with scattered seating, an atmospheric cocktail bar, art, antiques and offerings, which are all overseen by a towering stone Garuda. Created by an art lover, an impressive personal collection fills each space with timeless tales and mythical references. Beyond the lobby, lotus ponds, coral walls and reclaimed buildings from Bali and colonial Java create a resort that is as magical as it is beautiful. While Ji’s terrace restaurant upstairs is a popular setting for sunset and sushi, the lobby below has been transformed into an inviting space for all day dining, special events, cultural evenings and cocktails. Iwa is the space renamed and it’s a revelation. Scattered seating surrounds the central joglo, awash with soft cushions, vibrant

flowers and the tang of incense. A bar has replaced the reception desk that once dominated. Overlooking Iwa, it’s as scented and exotic as the space itself. The name Iwa is derived from an ancient Balinese legend from the 12th century. A Balinese couple prayed for a son and when finally he arrived, Kobo Iwa was no ordinary child. He loved his food and grew into a giant of a man. No house was big enough to shelter him and so he created a giant ‘Bale Agung’. It inspired the 15 metre high bale where Iwa is housed. It is the spiritual home of Kobo Iwa, and the lobby of the Tugu Hotel. General Manager, Jenny, explains that redesigning this space has been a priority for the hotel management. “We knocked out the walls to let in more light but also to reveal it to the street. Those that venture into Tugu are amazed that something like this exists in Canggu’s Batu Bolong, so we wanted to make it more visible and more accessible, to invite more people in to enjoy it,” she explains. \The results are breathtaking. We are introduced to Iwa’s dining concept, where guests can choose from a menu of 8 courses served in a vessel called a Congklak, a beautifully carved platter that is traditionally used in a Javanese game, or enjoy a la carte dishes from the all-day menu. The bar has been created, as all things Tugu, from reclaimed pieces, carved and coloured by time and tradition. The cocktail menu looks to local botanicals and exotic spices and fruit for their inspiration. Each is named for a volcano which highlights the delightful irony that is inherent in the Indonesian character. ‘Batur’ bubbles over with dry ice. Torch ginger garnishes the heady cocktail that is spiced with cinnamon and ginger and spiked with chiliinfused whisky, Grand Marnier and a hint of pineapple. It’s worthy of a photo and the tangy flavours are beautifully balanced. Our second cocktail is the ‘Rinjani’, a creamy mingle of melon and Midori, coconut and Malibu with vanilla-infused vodka, lime and palm sugar. Two very different cocktails and luckily my drinking partner and I have very different tastes. I choose spice, she chooses the smooth and creamy.

Cocktails and conversation go together and my partner, who has never walked through the entrance of the Tugu, is keen to discover more. The staff are more than happy to entertain with legends and history. We dive in to try another cocktail and this time we are served a ‘Tambora’, a rum based cocktail with vodka, mango and passionfruit, together with a ‘Bromo’, with cinnamon-infused rum, tamarind, passionfruit, almond syrup and pomelo. The sun is about to set and yet we aren’t tempted to head upstairs to Ji. We’ve succumbed to the hedonistic pleasures of Iwa, our cocktail exploration and the promise of a walk through the grounds of the hotel. The cocktail list goes on with a list of exotic concoctions that play on local coffee and chocolate, star-anise infused gin and pandan among the many ingredients. The mighty volcano Agung will have to wait, along with Krakatau, Raung and Sinabung, each sound as seductive as those that have gone before. While Tugu looks to the past for its inspiration, it continues to evolve to lure the modern traveller. Hospitality here is as sparkling and fresh as the day it opened. The spaces that echo with timeless pieces are a siren for those who want to sample the culture of the country they are visiting. Something that can seem sparse in modern Canggu. Whoever said that this modern tourist hub lacks culture has clearly never been to Tugu, it is the beating heart of Indonesia, home to authentic dances and memorable dining experiences. The spa is a shrine to ancient therapies that soothe the modern soul. The rooms hide modern conveniences behind a veil of history and art. It is and experience that goes well beyond the price of a cocktail. www.tuguhotels.com

A bamboo basket of traditional crackers and a spicy Balinese sambal are served at our table overlooking the lobby and the lotus ponds that lead to the rooms beyond. 131

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oral pleasures

the edge There is something unique about arriving at a five star villa resort when rain falls and the sky is not its usual dazzling Bali blue. It requires thought and creativity. The Edge in Uluwatu is very stylish. It’s also rather exclusive with only eight villas and a public exclusion zone on its jaw dropping mega-Insta friendly swimming pool that has a clear five-metre long lip that oversteps the cliff face. It’s simply dazzling. The public flow in from the stroke of 11am, which marks the end of the time sanctioned for guests only. However, guests do have a VIP section separated from the day-rate cliff club goers and Insta-obsessed travellers that descend daily at 180 °. When it’s cloudy and raining the crowds do not swoop. It’s free reign for the villa guests which leads to a whole lot more than meets the eye. The Edge also has a two lane bowling alley and a cinema room in the club house. There is a natural underground cave that is earmarked to be turned into elegant underground dining, two restaurants, a tennis court and unique spa where the floor is ankle deep in water that seamlessly meets the big ocean view. Given the rains, we double down inside The Breeze villa with a private butler on hand to produce fruit skewers and stonkingly good coffees. The view over the immense lawn was a white out. All we could see was the stone doorway of the second entrance, the super glam pool and the wooden deck dance floor and that was not seeing any action. An enormous flat screen TV beckoned as the impressive pool copped a drubbing. The Breeze is beautifully designed with clear lines and comfort as key. Traditional glass-candle style chandeliers 134

have been used as stretchers for white fabrics in a nod to a Miss Haversham aesthetic in the open plan dining area while in the living space the lights are like flipped ballet tutu’s that have abandoned tulle to embrace an elegant white shade that captures the eye and imagination. Settling down in to a very comfortable ‘L’ shaped sofa it was time to explore the settings of the TV. Netflix. Banzai! After a couple of hours lost in a mini-binge, it was time for dinner while the rain had held off. A fresh stroll to Seas, which is The Edge’s signature restaurant, passes through tropical gardens and walkways that overlooks a stream the leads to the famous pool. The restaurant, which is now open for lunch with a two packages, had an evening menu that explores classic Indonesian cuisine. The degustation menu features betel leaf stuffed full of smoky salmon, coriander and salty roe while the beef cheek rendang was outstanding. An appetiser of fried lotus chips and Thai coriander shoots in tempura delivered a lush earthy flavour with added crunch began the dining experience, which ended in delicate little pandan pancakes topped with gold leaf, sweet jackfruit, mango and banana with coconut. Back in The Breeze for a night cap before hitting the silky smooth bed, I note a sitting area and big flat screen TV in the bedroom. A dressing room separates the bedroom from the bathroom and delivers privacy, which is ideal given that The Breeze’s only bedroom has three direct entrances to the pool, which means three ceiling-to-floor glass walls. One discreet entrance to the pool is bounded by a soaring wall and the

ondy sweeting luxuriates at the edge, where there's more going on than insta-friendly cliff views.

bedroom. The depth of the pool is shallow, creating a sultry space for sipping champagne and star gazing. Blue tooth speakers tune in to any smart phone and a single tap controls blackout curtains remotely. Bathroom lighting is automatic and has movement sensors. The bathroom is fresh and modern with glass walls separating the tub and double washstands from the shower, wc, and an outside garden shower creating an infinite mirror effect. Toiletries are the posh French brand Hermès and the bathrobes are lined with soft faux lambs wool and are spread on the bed at night by the butler. Privacy is a hot issue at The Edge. The Breeze villa has two entrances – one to the villa and another to the garden which is an outstanding wedding or party venue and in front of every villa doorway is a stand-alone sign announcing that the villa is ‘private property’ and must not be entered. The Edge is a grand resort, despite having only eight exclusive villas, and staff zip about in golf buggies. There are also two bars that are unequalled on the island. One has clear panels on the floor so guests can spot passing sea turtles and gentle dugongs that often reside in the ocean below. There is also a Sky Bar, where guests can lounge around for sundowners after a heavy day in the perfect pool. www.theedgebali.com

seas restaurant at the edge.

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venting in a villa Baliâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s hottest new epicurean destination is The Ungasan Clifftop Resort in Uluwatu, writes Ondy Sweeting.

epicurean ungasan

cooking up a storm at ungasan's villa ambar.

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The Ungasan’s new executive chef Josh Tyler has brought the magic of a CV that was birthed in Australia’s Batemans Bay and scored him a coveted ‘chef’s hat’ plus some serious tutelage from one of Sydney’s greatest chefs, Peter Doyle. He also had several years cooking up a storm in France’s elite alpine resort of Chamonix-Mont-Blanc. The alchemy of this culinary melange and Josh’s fully honed craftsmanship and creativity should not be underestimated. What started as an overnight review of the resort, which is under the outstanding stewardship of GM Brenden Peace, soon morphed into an exceptional culinary tour triggered by an in-villa barbeque. Villa Ambar – a five bedroom cliff top estate in The Ungasan – is utter gorgeousness with a timeless old school Balinese open pavilion with big living spaces, stone floors, a sunken lounge and exquisitely hand-carved doors, panels, partitions and exotic Indonesian antique artefacts. A private butler waits in her kitchen to deliver endless chilled water, pots of tea, cool gin and tonics and ruby red wine. She also unpacked our bags and cooled our rooms. The soft grass lawns are expansive while a long infinity pool meets the massive view of the Indian Ocean and sky. It’s little wonder that Villa Ambar is a go-to wedding destination.

barramundi cooked with an XO sauce. The meat falls of the tasty short ribs while a tender dish of butterflied baby chicken is lush. All is matched with a light pinot noir delivering what is possibly the best BBQ in Bali. Clearly something very special is going on at The Ungasan – and that is down to chef Josh Tyler who becomes animated when our discussion leads to ingredients and purity. “We make everything in-house. We made a stock recently and it didn’t go according to plan but the result was so good that we created a new dish for the stock,” says Josh who started his kitchen career washing dishes to finance his surfing habit and was apprenticed more than 20 years ago. Josh has also developed a new in-villa dining menu that includes lamb shoulder, ceviche, wagyu steak, whole roasted duck and grilled rock lobster plus basics like ham and cheese toasties, pizza, pasta and a burnt honey and ricotta cheesecake with caramelised figs. He has also created a neat four-course degustation lunch menu. It was looking like we would never leave this blissful villa.

Appetizer salads climax with an ambrosial salt-baked beetroot and carrot salad with creamy burrata cheese crowned with fragrant dukkah. The bread is housemade San Francisco-style sour dough served warm with cultured butter. The potato salad of baby chats is mixed with crisp prosciutto, egg and a light garlic aioli. The green salad is crunchy organic leaves from the hill country of Bedugul. Each dish hits its mark.

Relaxing in Villa Ambar is easy with a four-sided lounge area for socialising and two dining tables that can join or separate out so one is for the kids since the villa is large enough to house two or three families. The bedrooms have cloud-like beds and maximise the water views. The big bathrooms are well planned with deep tiled baths – in the master suite the tub fits two people and looks out to sea. Toiletries are from Bali’s leading natural skin care range Sensatia Botanicals. The master suite is a cave-like escape down a secret staircase. Twin outdoor showers are partly hung with vines and partly open to the night sky. It has a private cushioned pavilion on a deck, and external walls are hewn from the local limestone. Throughout the property, tropical gardens abound – indoors and outside with bright pink and orange bougainvillea, fragrant frangipani trees and pots of beautiful white orchids on every worthy surface.

Coconut husks are burnt for the barbeque and deliver a light smoky flavour to the juicy meat of the little marrons’ basted in shellfish butter and soft baby

The Ungasan, where each villa is wildly different from each other, is also home of course to the popular Sundays beach club. Under the eagle eye of Brenden,

Before sunset a team of staff arrive to set up the barbeque on A-frames made from tree branches and overhung with vintage-style Tungsten light. They laid a candle-lit, white linen dining table overlooking the cliffs and the sea while the sky blazed orange and purple at sunset.

The Ungasan’s star is shining bright. The morning delivers Bali’s long absent wet season and an in-villa breakfast of yoghurt with Javanese honey comb squeezed over it, house-baked bread and pastries and cured smoke salmon. Add in smoothie bowls, eggs your way, an omelette, charred kale, ricotta hotcakes, a salmon bowl and local favourite of rice porridge and nasi goreng. As sheets of rain whip the cliffs, two massage therapists arrive and in the vastness of the living area we enjoy a deep tissue massage to the sound track of tropical rain and chirping birds. Usually such a soundscape is only ever delivered through ear pods, making this massage an unforgettable experience. Lunch rolls around to the Tyler degustation which starts with a chicken and pork pie - where the newly invented stock forms the jell base over a pastry case sprinkled with pork floss. For a tiny amuse-bouche this little pie is packed with flavour and is a worthy culinary creation. It is closely followed by a yellow fin tuna tartar, an insanely good glazed pork belly with fermented black garlic, dark chocolate and milk skin. Slivers of wagyu striploin is served with shitake mushroom, a miniature turnip and a mustard jus. The wine is well paired to the dishes and traverses from Australia to France and back again. Dessert is a triumph of unadulterated French caramel cheese custard combined with highly un-French local passionfruit and mangosteen served in misty dry ice and paired with a luscious Sauterne. With Josh Tyler and Brenden Peace – a former chef – onside, The Ungasan has landed with great skill on Bali’s culinary map and demands a vaunted position among the greats of the island. With such a gastronomic tour placed before us, we did not actually leave the villa once in a 24-hour staycation, and yet we felt like explorers who had uncovered something truly unique. Bravo. www.theungasan.com

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big six

sarah douglas flames on with foods that are all fired up.

Karma Beach On a moonlit night with the waves washing the shore, the bamboo pavilion on Karma Beach hosts a Saturday night beach barbecue that marries the freshest seafood with local flavours to create an atmospheric feast. Sitting around the open fire is extra special in this amazing location and chef Joseph Astonishek gathers a world of inspiration to Karma’s Saturday night barbecue dinners. This is a chef who brings innovation to every aspect of this delicious dining experience. He claims to be a bit of a closet engineer, so the self-designed barbecue is complete with pulleys to find just the right heat depending on what’s cooking. Expect a Jimbaran-style array of fresh seafood, from local prawns to slipper lobsters, from mahi mahi to gindara. Dessert gets the treatment as well, with strings of pineapples dancing over the flames ready to be transformed into happy and delicious endings. Pull up a bean bag, take your place around the fire and settle into a dinner soundtrack. On a beautiful evening, there are few things better. Tel. +62 361 8482202 www.karmabeach.com Yak Map D.16 The Meat Emporium Meat lovers will rejoice that finally we have a proper butcher shop, tucked away in the leafy streets of Jl Bumbak in Umalas. Those who have lugged their packages of sausages and legs of lamb through customs will share the relief in knowing that an Australian has opened the doors to a meat emporium that brings us all the cuts we love. From lamb chops to home-made sausages, smoked ham on the bone, dry-aged T-bones steaks and air-dried beef pastrami, the meat counter is full of quality meats at surprisingly good prices. The Australian tradition of barbecuing your own meat, a pub favourite, has also found a home at The Meat Emporium. A barbecue is fired up all day so that punters can make their purchase at the counter and enjoy it at the surrounding tables, built under a shaded canopy. Salads and baked potatoes are on the menu along with soft drinks and cold beer. You can even bring your own bottle of wine and make a night of it. While Europeans may find this practice a little weird, for Aussies, Kiwis and Brits, it’s all too familiar. Eat in or take away, the meat is all flown in from Australia and the neighbourhood butcher, Bruce, is on hand to make recommendations on the best ways to cook up your meat feast. Tel. +62 361 9347956 www.themeatemporium.store Yak Map Q.1 Nusantara Cooking over fire is nothing new to the Indonesians and Nusantara puts their wood-fired grill front and centre to dramatic effect. A project created by the team from Locavore, Nusantara puts authentic Indonesian dishes on the table at the fiery restaurant. It’s the grill that catches your eye the moment you arrive. The flames leap as whole fish, pork, chicken and even local goat, are spiced up with local flavours before being grilled to add some earthy and familiar flavours to the menu. A great selection of Indonesian classics, all with Locavore’s stylish signature, sambals and sides, make this an event for lovers of Indonesian food and a culinary journey of discovery for those who are yet to be initiated. As Locavore does, everything is sourced locally, the meat is prepared by their own butcher shop, sustainable seafood is delivered daily and vegetable dishes are organic and exciting. Chef Putu, one of the original Locavore cooks, heads up a multicultural team of Indonesian chefs who bring their own regional specialties to Ubud diners. Tel. +62 361 972973 www.locavore.co.id/nusantara 138

Mason The modern dining space that is Mason has earned its place on the Batu Bolong strip for bucking the trend. It’s neither vegan, nor vegetarian, and there’s no sign of a smoothie bowl, although there are some nice options for the meat free diners. Slow cooked lamb shoulder, beautifully pink aged duck breast and pork belly are stars on this menu and go perfectly with not so traditional sides. The wood-fired grill adds flavour to some of the best menu items, from perfectly grilled prawns, to one of my favourites, the char-grilled chicken served simply with a side of fresh lemon, aioli and jus. The wood-fired grill is both barbecue and oven and is used throughout the menu, pimping up dishes like the wood-fired carrots that shine with personality accompanied by yoghurt and dukkah and the house-made ricotta and spinach tart, prepared in a cast iron pan atop the flames. Integrated into the garden terrace at the back, the flavour literally floats on the breeze as barramundi fillets sizzle, beef short ribs cook long and slow and a 5+ wagyu ribeye does a quick trot on the flame to arrive perfectly charred and medium rare. Tel. +62 857 9250 5028 www.masonbali.com Yak Map P.1 Pig Satay Under The tree Swear to God, that is the translation. Satay Babi Bawah Pohon began life as a satay stall under a tree in Legian. The grill grew longer and longer until someone decided to put up a tarpaulin and call it a restaurant. As far as pork satay goes (and that is pretty much what they sell, not much else), this is as authentic as it gets, and locals will point you in this direction if you look ready to go street-side. Aside from being delicious, this is as much a cultural experience as anything. The satay comes and goes so quickly that it’s as fresh as a warung gets. Seeing the perfectly sized satay sticks lined up in a row, licked by the flames, seasoned and spiced to the last bite, is enough to make you forget the plastic covered tales, the pedestrian wooden chairs and the lack of air conditioning. Nestled away off Jalan Dewi Sri, follow your nose, and the crowds, to find this tuckedaway slice of local life. www.thebanjarbali.com Hog Wild by Chef Bruno If you’ve ever taken the drive up Jl Batubelig (and probably got stuck in a traffic jam) then you’ve definitely had a taste of what Hog Wild offers, as the smell of ribs cooking on the open grill is as distinctive to this area as the twists and turns in the road. Hog Wild was fashioned on Ubud’s famous Naughty Nuri’s before branching off into their own territory. Chef Bruno honed his skills in America (although he is a Frenchman) and there is a taste of the USA in these ribs, along with the unmistakable in-your-face Asian spice. It’s a glorious combination. Naturally you don’t have to order the ribs, but you’re mad not to, they are every bit as good as they smell. The smoke coming off this grill and floating across the street has been known to turn diners into, well, pigs! They do a smashing porn corn as a side ( that will surely spice up your dinner) along with rice or jacket potatoes. There is a full menu of appetizers, mains and desserts as well and don’t miss their shaking cocktails, they are memorable. Tel. +62 361 8476722 www.hogwildwithchefbruno.com Yak Map M.3

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Settimo Cielo Tel. +62 361 474 1117 – 4741118 www.settimocielobali.com Page 105 Shi Shi Tel. +62 81918888059 www.shishibali.com Page 13 Vault Bali Tel. +62 817612959 www.vaultbali.com Page 70 SHOPS Bamboo Blonde www.bambooblonde.com Page 18 Deus Ex Machina www.deuscustoms.com Page 2-3 Yak Map O.1/O.8 Kokoon Silks Tel. +62 8123604294 www.kokoonsilks.com Page 39 Yak Map V.4 Hatten Wines Bali Tel. +62 361 4721377 www.hattenwines.com Page 123 John Hardy Tel. +62 361 469888 www.johnhardy.com Page 6 Paul Ropp Tel. +62 361 701202/730212/730023/ 974369/8496908 www.paulropp.com Page Back Cover Yak Map X.3 Periplus Bookstore Tel. +62 21 46821088 www.periplus.com Page 151 POD Chocolate Tel. +62 3618496229 www.podchocolate.com Page 7 Yak Map S.8 Rip Curl www.ripcurl.com Page 19 Sensatia Botanicals Tel. +62 363 23260 www.sensatia.com Page 23 The Bali Florist Tel. +62811388270 www.thebaliflorist.com Page 4 Yak Directory

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horoscope

astroyak

Astrologer Dallas Kalmar hits the charts to give us the latest cosmic intel. Virgo full moon in your chart’s intuition corner on the 7th, you’ll know just what to say to pave the way (although you’d benefit from an active listening exercise or two before a big meeting or bearing of the soul–i.e., ”this is what I heard–is that what you meant?”). On April 22, count your blessings. An attitude of gratitude breeds more reasons for the same, so be intentionally receptive with a list and fresh perspective when the new moon lands in your investment zone. Ask, believe, receive!

Don’t wanna take a chance on your paper romance (anyway). Happy solar return, Ram! Your personal new year officially begins at the March 24 new moon (remember to set those intentions!). However, thanks to sumptuous Venus in your lush (and seemingly ‘flush’) fiscal house, the festivities find you early this year – and sparing no expense. Luckily, another new moon in the same sector on April 23 can help to clear the decks; just make sure said decks are completely metaphorical and avoid any temptations to gamble! This includes giving/accepting a loan (be it materially charged or love-laden) more substantial than your mammoth heart can authentically afford, especially around May 14.

scorpio

Money, power, respect. Venus saunters into your sign on March 4, just in time to make you feel all shiny and new for birthday season, yes–but more importantly, for the mammoth career phase coming your way! On March 30, go-getter Mars fires up your professional sphere for 6 weeks, so prepare for the best of ample opportunities (and some exhaustive communication while you sift through them) by fortifying your inner life with a strong meditation practice. From April 4, your house of money and self-worth grows brighter. One’s net-worth is only as great as one’s network as they say, so make a relevant wish on May 22 and call in a favor.

sagittarius

aries

taurus

Man plans and God laughs. March could find you in comprehensive recovery mode, as infomania planet Mercury (your ruler) finally concludes its Reject Step routine between your travel and career spheres on March 9. You may have to weather a professional squall or think outside your inbox, but the next three new moons–especially March 24 in your communal house of technology and startups (then April 23 & May 23)– will breathe fresh, solution-based versatility into your stalled missions. On April 3, Venus embarks on a staycation in your sign until August, bestowing you with ample glitz and gumption to transcend any company or couple-related curveballs.

gemini

Shake what your mama gave ya. Your maternal fourth house is activated in March, offering up some introspective moments for healing any unresolved ‘stuff’ with the women/mother(s) in your life. Saturn here through July 1 blows the whistle on the way you divvy up your own mothering energy–towards others and yourself. The March 24 new moon hits ‘refresh’ on your wellness zone, and this theme is echoed a month later on May 7, when you’ll have lunar carte blanche to shift your focus back to where it came from. Think of this full moon as your very own half-birthday gift from the Cosmos–even if it takes a couple of weeks (or months) to unwrap it. Oh, no time to rest–Just do your best. ‘A watched pot may never boil,’ but the powers-that-be been watching you simmer since September. The Virgo full moon on March 9 illuminates your career corner, and with both Jupiter (expanding) and Mars (cranking up the heat) in your money-kitchen until mid-May, some of your most solid innovations could runneth over into ‘brilliant’ territory. You’ll be nothing short of an evangelical powerhouse, but beware the over-share in your closest partnerships. To skirt any irreparable damage, Venus retrograde in Gemini emphasizes the act of listening. Especially where love and finances are concerned, don your Don (Miguel Ruiz) by being impeccable with your word.

It’s magic… Ablaze with excitement are your long-distance travel and romance sectors, which could play out well beyond May. Whatever’s been brewing since late August of last year is about to come to a head–be it a trip, legal issue or simply the wrap-up of a big project or degree, courtesy of the full moon on March 9. With Venus in your (gl)amour house until April 3, Romance on the High Seas could also be in store! In traditional Taurus, you should channel your inner Doris Day or Omar Sharif equivalent and gear up for some sultry, old-school magic in affairs of the heart.

capricorn A rooster needs a sunrise before he rises up and sings. With ‘me-first!’ Aries all fired up on your house of honors and professional reputation in March, you could experience a belief breakthrough, divine idea or emotional epiphany that catapults you to pioneer status in your career. If you’re in the helping professions, this could result from something you experienced directly/first-hand, perhaps painful–but ‘wounded healer’ Chiron here is sitting pretty to ensure it’s for a good cause. Beginning April 4, Venus kicks off a lengthy period of deeply transformational insights to your relationships until August, with May providing a cathartic opportunity for some introspective reveries.

cancer

leo ‘Cause we all have wings. Before you read any further: book your career coach, then your therapist/psychic/energy worker. Beginning March 4, Venus looks to primp up your career house for prestige and prosperity in April, when you’ll have ample cosmic support to finally get this thing off the ground! Mars in your partnership zone until May 15th gives your most soul-stirring venture(s) wings, but Saturn’s 4-month station here on March 21 won’t let you fly with the wrong allies. To facilitate your ascent on the right path, a sparkling, opportune new moon lands – you guessed it – in the same professional sphere on April 23. Set some clear intentions, then heed May’s Mercurial message for quantum self-care. virgo Try and give yourself some rest. You may need to address (or get a second opinion about) an ailment and/or test results you received prior to March 15–think digestion (avoid hot or highly acidic foods!), inflammation, circulation, bones/joints, to name a few. Or, perhaps you must revisit a contract/work assignment you thought was SO done. Stickler Saturn marches in here on March 21, bringing these concerns to the undeniable fore until July. When Mars barrels in on March 30 for 6 weeks, you’re at risk of overdoing it. Prioritize balance and don’t let it get to that point, because ‘20/20 hindsight’ is the last thing you want to be feeling when it comes to your work and health zone in 2020. I got the kind of love That’s gonna make you higher baby. March is outwardly about the ‘we’-factor, but you’ve got the upper hand all month long. With a

libra

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Nothing’s fast or slow. If you think you haven’t had a chance to #getitsorted by the March 21 equinox, brass-tacks Saturn bids Mars farewell and sets up camp in your sign to align you with a preview of what that means until July 1. Hint: while ‘they’ may say it only takes three weeks to form a habit, the Zodiac’s life-structure foreman reminds you that the soundest foundations are built one brick at a time–and three years is more like it! Mars in your sign acts like free PR until mid-May. Bring your A-game around May 7, and the full moon in your professional corner might give you reason(s) to celebrate soon enough.

aquarius

pisces Oughta be prayin.’ April finds you in a notably introspective and perhaps exhausted state, with expansive Jupiter in your networking sphere and Mars igniting your ‘soul-itude’ house of cathartic release until mid-May. Meanwhile, paternal Saturn is camping with Mars until July, so this could be a time of epic restructuring in your relationship with the masculine–dad, mentor, within, or otherwise. Conversely, the May 22 new moon in your maternal home zone holds the space for you to set a restorative intention for domestic harmony, be it where you live now or with the one who brought you into this world. Inner work, deep healing, and just plain sating the Neptunian energy within primes you for a year of happy synchronicities. Personalized, printable natal charts & interpretations | Available for live readings via Zoom | Email likethecity@me.com to request an appointment.