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Volume fifty seven dec/jan/feb 2017-2018

The Yak Magazine Sophie Digby, Nigel Simmonds, Agustina Ardie, Michelle Lamb Creative Director Stuart Sullivan Sales & Marketing Peta Johnston, Shanty Wijaya Production Manager Evi Sri Rezeki Graphic Designers Irawan Zuhri, Ida Bagus Adi Accounting Julia Rulianti Distribution Made Marjana, Putu Widi Susanto, Gede Swastika, Made Rekayasa Publisher PT. L.I.P Licence AHU/47558/AH/01/01/2011

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Advertising Enquiries Tel: (+62 361) 766 539, 085100431804, 085100431805, 085100431796 e: info@theyakmag.com, sales@theyakmag.com The Yak Magazine, Kompleks Perkantoran Simpang Siur Square, Jl. Setia Budi, Kuta, Bali 80361, Indonesia

OK you know the drill. No part of this publication may be copied or reproduced electronically or otherwise without prior permission from the Publisher. Opinions expressed are those of the authors not the Publisher. The Publisher reserves the right to refuse advertising that does not comply with the magazine's design criteria. The Yak will not be held responsible for copyright infringements on images supplied directly by advertisers and/or contributors. Check us out online, we’re awesome (if we do say so ourselves). Peace.

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contents 20

Good Vibrations

Charity Begins At Home

Yakety yak

one world

Calendar Conundrums

Swadaya Together

Plastic Tide

Whoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s In Now

dates with destiny

causes

new in the hood

out of the box

Productive Times

146 16

Andy Wauman

Erika Pena

people

Kimo Rizky

Yann Beyrie

Polly Purser

Harry Mark

sounds around

people

feature

passions

Sebastiao Salgado

132

90 102

yak fashion

Matahari

oral pleasures

Aya Street

104

Sake No Hana

106

Salazon

110

Ti Moris

112

Chachara

116

oral pleasures

Heritage Indochine

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contents Omnibus, page 86: peace out

118

oral pleasures

MyWarung Ubud

120

Above Eleven

122

La Brisa

124

Happy Hours

128

The Edge

130

Bask

oral pleasures

Big Six

venting in a villa

56 18

132

venting

Ulu Cliffhouse

134

Nagisa

138

Kayumanis

140

Beyond Borders

142

Atlas Pearls

146

TStore

Brands

interiors

over the edge

interiors

118

148

fashion freestyle

Client Clobber

158

F1 Podium Lounge

160

Yak Golf!

162

George Clinton

166

Whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s What

168

Tomorrow Never Dies

102

yak events

sounds around

ad directory

astro yak

120

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So here, as we approach the end of the 2017 freeway, it might just be time to look back, take stock and pop open a bottle of bubbles – be they Freixenet, Albens or Stark . . . or Taittinger (thank you, Red Carpet), even Heineken (ever-indebted, Circle K) … and see what this past (not quite past) year had in store for us without us even knowing . . . Astrologically, according to Nylon magazine, there were gamechanging eclipses when “strength in numbers,” led to sweeping solidarity when it came to doing the right thing – Mount Agung’s grumbling certainly saw people doing the right thing and, as I write, over two thirds of Australia has decided it’s time for people who are in love to consecrate their union – legally! Spiritually, 2017 also hosted some “freaky synchronicity” – which is a weekly, if not daily, occurrence here on the shores of Bali . . . so no news there. Politically, amidst Trumpdom and WH leakage (with a touch of Russian mayonnaise), Brexit and The Ministry of Weakness, it seems the top right-hand corner of Spain wants a divorce from its lower half! WTF? We can all see and feel that 2017 has been a bit of a challenging year. However, and it is possibly what we most love about Bali it is that while we are aware of what goes on around us, it seems that here on this little island, with its massive vibration, creativity still flows. 528Hz is still our favourite solfeggio, sunsets are still a gift, as is the birdsong and Bali ‘true’; the sunrise beach walks and the generous fur-ever home volunteers. Here at The Yak we prefer to focus on the higher vibes, and we opt to pop the bubbles for our amazing magazine – with endless outstanding content, thanks to the uber-talented creatives that mesh their inspirations to form the backbone and muscle of our amazing ‘tome’ in print; our outstanding clients and readers, who continue to love and appreciate what we do. And we include of course our funloving golf events and our foray into Formula 1 at the fabulous Podium Lounge, Singapore F1’s top after-party last September – and yes, we’ve been invited back for Podium Lounge’s Fashion Circuit in 2018, so watch this space! Usually in Yakkety Yak we’d be guiding, nominating and navigating you through each feature, but since 2017 is almost over and it is a year of finding one’s own feet, where “generous Jupiter moves into sexy, mysterious Scorpio for the first time in 12 years and catalyzes an intense blossoming of intuition – or straight-up psychic awareness”, we thought it best to let you explore your newfound sense of hyperawareness. As always, ‘May The Yak be with you’. And have yourselves a fabulous 2018.

yakbak Dear Yak, Just wanted to say I was in Bali recently and managed to grab a copy of The Yak. I love the magazine! Have a good weekend ahead! Regards, Lynn Koh, GHC Asia Singapore

Dear Yak, This latest Yak cover was definitely the best yet – outstanding! Who is the photographer? I already know that this is fashionista Mauricio Alpizar’s second cover. Am I getting a whiff of favouritism? Anon Hong Kong

Oh Ms Koh, you do know how to flatter. Dear Yak, Nice to e-meet you. I’ve been reading The Yak for years and would call myself a true fan of your editorial quality and holistic offering... This email should have been sent along time a go and today’s trigger was seeing The Yak in the CX lounge at Changi airport. Regards, Richard Nilsson Lifestyle Asia Burda International Asia And now we can die happy. Thanks Richard, your App rocks!

Rumbled we are. Yes we are such fans of the iniminitable Mauricio. The shot was by Pepe Arcos, free diving champion to the stars! Dear Yak, Thanks so much – we received all Yak magazines today at the hotel. Should you require further assistance, please contact me. Regards, Kimmie Chan The Ritz-Carlton, Millenia Singapore My we have gotten about a bit this issue. Thanks Kimmie. Please reserve the penthouse for our next trip!

In The Lap Of: Lewis & Co We were spoiled for choice at the F1 in Singapore when it came to celebrity drivers of the fast lane variety. Pursued by Lewis Hamilton we quickly changed gear and instead pressed our esteemed organ into the hands of none other than Giancarlo Fisichella, if only because he was able to handle a set of DJ decks as well as the wheel of a Formula 1 racecar. Next time, Billion Dollar Man!

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giving back

charity begins at home.

AGUNG SIAGA When Mount Agung started rumbling in September, causing the Centre for Volcanology and Geological Hazard Mitigation to raise the volcano’s alert status to the highest level, the immediate concern was to evacuate people living in the exclusion zones. While the response was quick and relatively effective with over 240,000 people evacuated to temporary camps, it soon became apparent that there were much broader social and ecological issues at play. Agung Siaga was formed as an independent response to these issues with the mission of providing relief to evacuees, sharing logistics, and bridging, educating and empowering communities. This volunteer-only group functions as a collective of various organisations, business owners and individuals who are working together to ensure the evacuee’s basic needs are met and that help goes where it is needed the most. Shortly after forming, Agung Siaga set up a logistics hub on Jalan Raya Ubud that serves as a dropping-off point for donations to be distributed to shelter sites with a focus on smaller camps that fall under the radar of the government and other non-profit groups. They began collecting data on the status of the camps, set up a community kitchen to cook up to 200 healthy meals a day for evacuees, coordinated a sanitation education programme, and facilitated disaster relief training for volunteers. At the time of writing, Mount Agung’s alert level has been downgraded to level three, however, there are still over 42,000 people in shelters who cannot return to their homes in the 6-kilometre exclusion area. There is also still a chance the volcano could erupt. Agung Siaga continues to work closely with organisations like Kopernik, IDEP, Bumi Sehat and Mount Agung Relief to provide sustainable support for evacuees and villages that will be affected in the event of an eruption. www.facebook.com/agungsiaga.ubud I’M AN ANGEL I’m an Angel foundation has been serving communities in the Mount Agung hazard zone for over a decade, so when the volcano went on high alert, they were one of the first relief groups on the ground with food, supplies and shelter, sometimes arriving at evacuee camps at the same time as the evacuees. Through their wide-reaching network of supporters, they have raised funds and delivered direct aid to thousands of evacuees including some of the most underprivileged communities affected by the volcano. Founded in 2003 by a group of philanthropic individuals, I’m an Angel’s mission is to empower rural communities to improve their standard of living amidst resource scarcity and socio-economic challenges and to raise funds for development projects that focus on education, healthcare, microfinance, women’s empowerment, environmental awareness, and disaster relief in poverty stricken areas of Bali. As soon as the evacuations started, I’m an Angel wasted no time in setting up donation drop-off points at their headquarters of Bucu Cafe in

Umalas and various locations across South Bali, gathering necessities like fresh vegetables, clothing, mattresses, baby formula and vitamins for the evacuees. Generous donations have allowed them to distribute goods to the poorer areas on the north side of Mount Agung and provide materials for evacuees to build basic facilities like toilets in camps that are lacking. Disaster relief is an on-going effort, and Mount Agung is by no means in the clear. Even for the evacuees who were able to return home, many find themselves in vulnerable positions after being stationed in camps for so long and unable to work or farm. I’m an Angel works tirelessly to ensure aid goes directly to communities in crisis. Your funding can make a huge difference in the lives of people affected by Mount Agung’s recent activity, as well as other rural communities struggling with poverty. www.imanangel.org IDEP Foundation Community-based disaster management and preparedness has always been a key focus for IDEP Foundation, an Indonesian NGO dedicated to ‘helping people help themselves’. Before, during and after disasters, IDEP works with local communities to help increase resilience to disasters in a sustainable way. In times of disaster, such as the recent Mount Agung emergency evacuations, IDEP works with local partners to get people the assistance they need as quickly as possible. In the early stages of the evacuations, IDEP was on the road with partners like Mount Agung Relief, Agung Siaga and Kopernik conducting situational assessments and gathering information to accurately prepare a coordinated response. Soon after, they were working on collaborative efforts to build water and sanitation infrastructure in camps and deliver aid including Family Buckets containing nutritious food, sanitary products, mattresses, blankets, traditional medicine and children’s activity kits. As with all of IDEP’s programs, the aim of their Disaster Management work is to help people become more self-sufficient in the case of an emergency, and they do this through demonstrations and practical hands-on education. They are currently providing information on disaster preparedness, sanitation and health to villages and schools in and around the Mount Agung danger zones, and have created a wealth of educational material including fact sheets and films about what to do in the event of a volcanic eruption. IDEP has also been instrumental in training organisations and individuals looking to increase their skill sets to better help others. Their Training & Consulting Team is committed to ensuring that NGOS and communities have the knowledge, tools and skills they need to develop and implement programs that have concrete and lasting impacts. Trainings include disaster management, permaculture, sustainable development, organizational strengthening and media and advocacy. www.idepfoundation.org

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calendar

fridge magnet fodder for the peripatetic.

DJAKARTA WAREHOUSE PROJECT Party people Ismaya Live are all set to deliver yet another mind-blowing sensory experience at the Djakarta Warehouse Project, Asia’s biggest two-day EDM festival. From December 15th to 16th, an all-star line-up of DJs including Steve Aoki, Richie Hawtin and Tiësto will throw down sick beats amid spectacular light shows and pyrotechnics at the JIEXPO in Jakarta. New this year is a special stage by Ibiza’s Elrow, who are famous for their over-the-top productions. There will also be ample opportunity to refuel at Eats & Beats, a curated collection of the Ismaya Group’s favourite restaurant concepts. www.djakartawarehouse.com

BAU NYALE Come mid-February, Seger Beach in Kuta, Lombok will teem with people searching for colourful sea worms called nyale that only make an appearance once a year. Legend has it there was once a princess named Mandalika who was so beautiful that all the princes of Lombok battled to marry her. However, this violence deeply upset the princess, so in protest she drowned herself in the sea. Locals believe that the nyale worms are the incarnation of the princess and that they bring prosperity and fertility to whoever catches them. Local Sasak people also celebrate Bau Nyale with parades, concerts, sporting competitions and culinary bazaars.

FALLS FESTIVAL If you happen to be Down Under for the end of the year, definitely pencil in the 25th annual Falls Festival, one of Australia’s longest running music events that takes place across four different towns and cities. The milestone celebration will kick off in Lorne on December 28 with over 70 diverse bands and DJs, then make its way to Marion Bay, Byron Bay and Fremantle with three days of epic performances in each. Headliners this year include top acts like Foster the People, Liam Gallagher, Glass Animals and The Kooks. Partygoers can also enjoy art installations, food trucks, pop-up bars and holistic wellness services. www.fallsfestival.com

TAIWAN SKY LANTERN FESTIVAL The end of Chinese New Year in the small town of Pingxi, Taiwan is a dazzling affair when thousands converge to celebrate the Pingxi Lantern Festival. The festival dates back over 2,000 years to the Xing Dynasty when bandits were rampant in the region and villagers would flee to the mountains to escape plundering. Upon returning, the villagers would set off sky lanterns to signal to other refugees that it was safe to come home. This festival will take place on March 2nd with people coming from far and wide to write their wishes for the next year on paper and silk lanterns before releasing them to the stars.

IF YOU’RE IN SINGAPORE… January 17 to January 28 Singapore Art Week: Singapore’s art scene has been on a major upswing the last few years, and one of the manifestations of this is Singapore Art Week. Now in its sixth edition, this 12-day feast for the eyes will feature art fairs, art walks, panel discussions and exhibitions at various venues around Singapore including museums, art precincts and non-profit spaces. Expect an extravaganza of traditional and modern paintings, photographs, sculptures and installations, plus colourful outdoor parties featuring live music, vibrant street art and all manner of eats.

that ended in his demise. Each year the people of Ivrea commemorate this victory by forming teams that pelt oranges at each other to represent the battle between the revolutionaries and the tyrant’s forces.

January 27 St. Jerome’s Laneway Festival: What started as a series of small street parties outside a back-alley bar in Melbourne quickly became an international indie-rock affair with parties taking place across Australia, New Zealand and Singapore. The Singapore edition of the St. Jerome’s Laneway Festival will go down at Gardens by the Bay against the spectacular backdrop of Marina Bay Sands. In keeping with the festival’s original mission to showcase up-and-coming musicians, the headliners include cutting edge acts like Bonobo, Billie Eilish, Wolf Alice and Rolling Blackouts Coastal Fever. IF YOU’RE IN ITALY… January 27 to February 13 Carnival of Venice: Venice is already a magical place, but even more so during Carnevale when residents and tourists alike don elaborate costumes and masks and attend lavish balls, lively concerts, parades, operas and cocktail parties. Be sure not to miss the Mascheranda Grand Ball in a candlelit palace overlooking the Grand Canal and the Best Masked Costume Contest in San Marco Square when a panel of international costume and fashion designers will choose the most spectacular ensemble of the year. February 8 to February 13 Battle of the Oranges (Ivrea): Italy has its fair share of food fights, but the Battle of the Oranges in Ivrea is by far the largest. The festival dates back to the 12th century when a terrible tyrant ruled over Ivrea. One fateful night, the tyrant made the fatal mistake of trying to rape a miller’s daughter, which sparked a revolution 28

March 8 La Festa Della Donna (International Women’s Day): March 8th is a great day to be a woman in Italy, as you can expect to receive bright bouquets of flowers, free admission to museums and archaeological sites, and invitations to lively girl’s nights out in honour of International Women’s Day. The yellow mimosa flower is the unofficial symbol of the day, followed by mimosa cocktails and mimosa cakes. You’ll also find a slew of public performances celebrating inspiring women, restaurants offering set Women’s Day menus, and nightclubs with drink specials just for the ladies. IF YOU’RE IN THE USA… January 6 to February 13 Mardi Gras (New Orleans, Louisiana): So much more than just beads, bared breasts and booze, Mardi Gras is New Orleans’ unique version of the Carnival season celebrating the last hurrah before the fasting period of Lent. The celebrations begin on January 6th with an elaborate masked ball, and over the next six weeks special social clubs called krewes hold colourful parades and decadent balls. The celebrations reach a fever pitch in the weekend leading up to Fat Tuesday when the population of the city doubles with revellers looking to let the good times roll. March 1 to March 4 Wanderlust O’ahu Festival: The spirit of aloha meets the essence of namaste at the Wanderlust O’ahu Festival, a celebration of yoga, mindfulness and holistic living. Start your day with an oceanside yoga class before segueing into inspiring speakeasy talks, vibrant island cuisine, surfing sessions and booty-shaking dance parties under the stars. Every day there will be yoga and meditation classes to suit all levels and styles, an artisan market featuring earth-conscious vendors, outdoor activities galore and plenty of opportunities to socialise with like-minded folk.

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a new tv series aims to highlight indonesia’s powerful grassroots spirit of community.

unity in diversity.

Here’s an interesting game: list the first three things that come to mind when you think of Indonesia’s representation on television. What have you got? News reports on natural disasters and extremism? Weird wildlife? Saccharine Sinetron episodes? Funny how in this incredibly diverse nation of over 260 million people, inspiring stories about human ingenuity and spirit rarely make the list. Now, at a time when Indonesia is rapidly evolving, two passionate visual communicators want to change that with a groundbreaking new television series that aims to show a different side of Indonesia and her people. Swadaya is the brainchild of renowned Indonesian journalist and photographer Rio Helmi and Joe Yaggi, an award-winning producer, director and the driving force behind Indonesia’s Jungle Run Productions. Together they have spent over 50 years documenting Indonesia, and although their career paths have often run parallel courses, this is the first time they have collaborated on a project. The cultural adventure series will feature Rio’s journey by motorbike across Indonesia to uncover exceptional grassroots stories of people creating long-term projects that benefit their communities in life-changing ways. Swadaya means ‘empowered’ in Bahasa Indonesia, and the goal of the series is to inspire and empower people everywhere to have confidence in their own ability to effect positive change. Rio says, “The idea was sparked when I started thinking about what happens when a village is abandoned either by the vagaries of bureaucracy or corruption. When I was younger there was this spirit in Indonesia of working together and solving problems as a community, but this seems to have evaporated with the modern lifestyle. “Over time I’ve seen things change as local cultures get broken down and sucked into the consumer stream. Their sense of pride, self-reliance and self-worth starts to get watered down. Values have shifted to meaningless things, so people get frustrated when they feel they are cheated out of what their rights as citizens are. “But then I started noticing situations where people were taking things into their own hands. When people have their own sense of worth and control over their lives they become stronger, and the power that comes out of that is wonderful.” As Rio pondered more about the cultural and political crossroads that Indonesia faces and the people he had met who were forging their own path to better themselves and their communities, the idea of putting something on film began to form. He got in touch with Joe and the concept expanded. Joe says, “It was interesting for me because Jungle Run has been doing production here for 24 years and we’ve worked on a wide variety of projects, but I realised with this that the last thing I wanted to do was make an NGO film. I thought what we need to do is figure out a way to make this into a broadcast entertainment program. Once we went 32

down that road, it all started making sense.” Joe and Rio decided on a television series of 13 episodes, each one clocking in at 30 minutes and covering a different community project in a different part of Indonesia. Coming up with a list of people and projects to cover was easy considering the storytellers have been travelling the archipelago for decades meeting dynamic characters doing inspiring work. Episodes in the works include the story of a motorcycle gang in Flores that has rallied together to provide transport for midwives in remote areas and teach low-tech solutions to villagers in the mountains. Another episode will explore a village on a remote coast of West Papua where the kepala desa is a whale shark whisperer who convinced his community to build fish and aquaculture farms to support the village. Although the main goal of Swadaya is to showcase these amazing stories and give Indonesians the opportunity to explore and experience the best of their country, there are many broader reaching aspects to the project. Joes says, “If you look at what is going on in Indonesia right now, there is a major consciousness shift happening. The younger generation, who are going to move the country forward, are looking for meaning. So the more people feel connected to other people, the easier it will be to move these transitions forward in a positive way. It’s about connectivity, and local TV is one of the links that is going to move this project forward. “We also realise that for the international market it’s going to be an interesting travelogue because you’ll be seeing Indonesia in a new way and interacting with people in a way that you typically don’t. One of my conditions for moving forward was that we produce it at the level of National Geographic and Discovery. There is so much talent in the industry here, so hopefully Swadaya will also serve as an example of what can be done on the television front in Indonesia.” The response to Swadaya has been overwhelmingly positive. Through crowdfunding campaigns and professional networks, Rio and Joe have already raised roughly US$50,000 of the approximate $860,000 it will take to complete the project. If all goes to plan, the series will be released in mid-2018 on up to 100 television stations across Indonesia, as well as international platforms. Rio says, “It’s exciting that there is this possibility of producing something that can go through layers of audiences. Hopefully people at the grassroots level can respond to it, as well as people on the national and international levels. We like to think of Swadaya as starting a movement, so we’ll see what happens.” S.M. www.swadayafilm.com www.facebook.com/swadayafilm

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FIGHTING THE GOOD FIGHT.

Brothers Gary and Sam Bencheghib kayaked down the world’s most polluted river, the Citaram, to highlight the struggle we face against a tide of plastic. Gary spoke to Stephanie Mee.

Hi Gary, can you tell us a little bit about your background? I was born in Paris, but grew up in Bali. My family moved to the island in 2005 and I attended the Bali International School. After graduating in 2013, I moved to New York to study documentary filmmaking and develop our media start-up Make a Change World. You created Make a Change Bali in 2009 at the age of 14. What prompted you to create the organisation and what were your main goals? While living in Bali I witnessed a slow degradation of the beaches to the point where they were becoming filled with plastic pollution. In 2009, trash was not a hot topic in Bali and there were few initiatives fighting against it, so we started doing weekly beach clean-ups around the island. Our mission was to educate people about the effect plastic has on the environment. We collaborated with schools and musicians and our beach clean-ups quickly grew from four volunteers to over 200 volunteers per clean up. Let’s fast forward to the present. What have you been working on lately? I recently launched my first web series entitled #PickUpAPieceOfTrash where for 30 days I documented 30 changemakers on the island who are fighting for a greener Bali. The series received over 80 million views and was shared by media outlets including Al Jazeera and Business Insider. Seeing how much engagement the videos received really proved that we could amplify positive messages through video. I have also rebranded Make a Change Bali into Make a Change World, combining my passion for filmmaking and the environment. You and your brother Sam recently kayaked down the Citarum River, the most polluted river in the world, in kayaks made out of plastic bottles. What sparked the idea to do this? Many people don’t realise that much of the trash we find in the ocean originates from our rivers and streams. Last year some friends and I sailed down the Mississippi River on a plastic bottle vessel, but we didn’t get strong enough visuals because although the Mississippi is polluted with toxins, the microplastics can only be seen by microscope. This time we wanted shocking visuals. The goal was to shake people’s consciences and make them rethink single-use plastics whilst also showing that plastic can be a resource. Can you tell us a bit about your journey? What shocked you the most? We started our journey in the town of Majalaya, which is one of the most polluted sections of the river. Here factories on both sides dump their wastewater and toxic chemicals in the night when no one is looking. Blue, green and red dyes run directly into the river from open drains. We were also shocked to see so many factories in Bandung dumping their waste in the midst of so much life on the riverbanks. We saw kids flying kites on top of mountains of rubbish next to open fires. The idea that so many people live in these conditions without a proper waste management system in place is horrifying. 36

What kind of reactions did you get from the local people? Many local people were surprised to see two expats on the river, and then curious about our plastic bottle kayaks. It was a great conversation starter to bring up the issue of pollution and the value of plastics as a resource. From this we are excited to be working with Bangkit Bersama to build an army of plastic bottle kayaks for scavengers on the river. The vessels have proven to be cheap to make, easy to transport and easily navigable. Can you tell us about some other individuals and groups you met along the way who are working to clean up the river? We were honoured to partner with Greeneration Foundation and Clean Action Bandung who connected us with our guide Indra Darmawan from the Bening Saguling Foundation. Indra has been working for over 14 years to restore his part of the river, and has created a trash economy for scavengers where he gives them a platform to sell the trash they collect on the river. Indra also started a free school where kids receive milk in exchange for the trash they bring to class. We also met up with various eco villages like Jurig Runtah “Trash Ghosts”, a group of friends and family who spend up to three hours every day cleaning the sewers of Bandung. They dive full-bodied inside the sewers without any gloves or protection and pick up plastic with their bare hands. The videos of your journey quickly reached the Indonesian government, and there are now initiatives in place to clean up the river. How does the government plan to tackle this monumental task? The Ministry of the Environment has a four-month assessment and zoning plan to see which areas of the river need the most attention. They have also met with the Ministry of Maritime Affairs, Ministry of Industries, Ministry of Public Affairs, the West Javanese governor and city mayors to get the plan up and running. The follow-up has been remarkable so far and just proves that Indonesia is at the frontline of the environmental fight against marine debris. In your opinion, what needs to happen for us to start seeing real change? In an ideal world, all single-use plastics would be banned and producers would substitute packaging with sustainable reusable materials. Unfortunately, with the politics of the plastic industry, we may never see this happen. Therefore, we strongly rely on the government’s help in cleaning up the river and enforcing anti-pollution laws. We are very optimistic that change is happening and are excited to revisit the Citarum River in December to see how far these efforts have come along. www.makeachange.world

SANUR GOES ORGANIC Never one to rest on his laurels, Mozaic founder Chris Salans has been hard at work expanding his Spice gastro-bar concepts in Ubud, Sanur and Seminyak with the aim of showcasing Indonesian flavours to a wider audience at accessible prices. Now upping the ante even further, he brings us Sanur Goes Organic, a farmer’s market taking place every Saturday at Spice Sanur. Here visitors can stock up on fresh organic produce from local farmers and take part in free cooking demos with Spice chefs. The chefs use ingredients from the market to create tasty Indonesian dishes and offer free tastings and recipe cards. Definitely worth checking out if you want to add some new healthy dishes to your repertoire. Tel: +62 361 4490411 www.spicebali.com

THE BRUTALIST COLLECTION It’s not often that you think of ceramic tiles as art pieces in themselves, but Philip Lakeman Ceramic is no ordinary ceramics studio. Here inspiration comes from global design influences and every tile is handmade from start to finish using a unique casting process that results in one-of-a-kind pieces with exceptional tone and texture. Their latest offering is the Brutalist Collection, which was inspired by Picasso with nuances of Guernica. These earthy, richly patterned tiles are ideal for feature walls, both indoor and outdoor, and they can be custom glazed and coloured to match your décor. Tel: +62 361 449 0064 www.lakemanceramic.com

JOHN HARDY MASTERCLASSES Luxury jewellery designer John Hardy has just unveiled their Artisan in Residence Workshop Masterclass at their beautiful design headquarters set amid 400 lush acres in Mambal. Masterclass guests will be treated to an exclusive behind-the-scenes tour of the creative hub and get to work in tandem with master artisans to customise a one-of-a-kind piece of John Hardy jewellery. The experience ends with a communal lunch of organic Balinese fare alongside the design team and artisans. Prices vary depending on whether you want the masterclass experience only or the masterclass with your own bespoke piece of jewellery to take home. Tel: +62 361 469 888 www.johnhardy.com

CLIFFTOP HOLISTIC HEALING With endless ocean views from its cliffside locale, Anantara Uluwatu Bali Resort is a prime location for rebalancing the body and mind. New to the resort is a series of unique healing packages designed by high priestess Ibu Jero. Fifth in a long line of Balinese healers, she brings the extensive knowledge and experience of her ancestors to her work. Discover deep meditation practices and enhance your energy through special therapies. Learn to set intentions that improve your life and wellbeing. Listen to your inner voice and achieve balance with the help of this renowned healer. Packages include chakra cleansings at holy temples, Reiki sessions, and blessing and healing rituals for couples. Tel: + 62 361 895 7555 Ext.6900 www.bali-uluwatu.anantara.com

BOY’N’COW MEAT BOUTIQUE Carnivore cravings are quelled at Boy’N’Cow, Bali’s first meat boutique where the beef is dry-aged in house for 28 days and grilled on a custom-made gaucho grill. These guys are serious about their meat, so they only serve grain or grass fed beef sourced from sustainable and organic farms in the US and Australia. From rib eye to striploin, tenderloin and porterhouse, they have your steak needs covered. Also on offer are small plates for sharing like the Burrata Cheese and Tuna Tostada, beefless mains like the Charred Spring Chicken and Barramundi, plus artisan cocktails, single malt whiskies and fine wines from their cocktail lounge upstairs. Tel: +62 361 934 84 68 www.boyncow.com

SUNNIES WITH SOUL More than just stylish shades, Bambusee sunglasses are good for your eyes, good for the environment and good for the craftspeople who make them. Each pair is handmade in Indonesia using eco-friendly materials like recycled wood and natural stone, as well as high-quality lenses that conform to international standards. Bambusee builds on the skills and traditions of local artisans, and employs people living with HIV/AIDS, rehabilitated drug users and other vulnerable groups. Even better, they also partner with the Indonesian Eye Doctor’s Association and NGO Besi Pae to ensure that a portion of your purchase helps support disadvantaged people in Indonesia who suffer from eye problems. www.bambusee.com

NONE KITCHEN & LOUNGE New to Legian is Noné Kitchen & Lounge, a chic new cafe offering both comfort and class. Step inside to find soaring ceilings, huge windows and plush sofas where you can settle in for a while with a coffee or cocktail and Asian-inspired comfort food bites. Already earning accolades are the crispy None Chicken Wings tossed in a tangy Vietnamese sauce, the Rainbow Grilled Cheese Sandwich served with a side of homestyle tomato soup, and the Cioppino seafood stew loaded with fresh fish, mussels, clams, squid and shrimp in a spicy broth. Be sure to save room for sweet treats like the Earl Grey Creme Brulee and Coconut Poke Cake. Tel: +62 361 934 8015 www.nonekitchen.com

MILK & MADU UBUD EDITION The Good Food Brotherhood is at it again with another fab foodie foray. Following the massive success of their Canggu hotspot Milk & Madu, they decided to bring the same barrage of wholesome goodness to the heart of Ubud. Located across from the Royal Palace on Jalan Raya Ubud, this modern greenhouse-style space serves up all the classics that made their flagship famous including flavourful wraps, flatbread pizzas and their oh-so-Instagrammable Super Brekky Bowls. Perfect for after-yoga eats, family brunches or shared plates with friends, Milk & Madu Ubud is a little slice of hipster up the hill. Tel: +62 851 0278 1872 www.milkandmadu.com

IBU SUSU KITCHEN & BAR Pan-Asian cuisine gets a temporary kick at Ibu Susu Bar & Kitchen, a happening new addition to Monkey Forest Road. No attention to detail was spared here from the large windows sporting wooden shutters to the gorgeous blue textiles and handmade ceramics from Japan. Co-owner and head bartender Ketut draws on his years of experience working behind some of the best bars in Melbourne to create dreamy concoctions like the Salted Caramel Espresso Martini and Pandan Colada. Chef Nicolas Lazzaroni of Settimo Cielo collaborated on the menu, which features contemporary dishes like the Butterfish Sashimi, Crispy Soft Shell Crab with basil, and Roast Pork Belly with shaved apple and coconut salad. Tel: +62 361 908 4861 www.ibususu.com

FIRMATO BY ESPEN SALBERG Since debuting at Hong Kong fashion week in 2009, Espen Salberg’s gorgeous designs have been gaining momentum and garnering new fans around the world. His latest collection is titled FIRMATO and celebrates the female form with a cutting edge mix of stretch jersey and mesh along with non-stretch fabrics like silk, tulle and velour. Espen also brings sculptured elements like beading and sequins into his latest collection, which he describes as ‘Stretch-Couture’. You can get a sneak peek of this stunning spring/summer collection at the Espen Salberg Boutique in Canggu. Tel: +62 361 845 0643

INDIAN CUISINE AT ANVAYA To pamper the wide-ranging international palates of its guests, The ANVAYA Beach Resort has recently brought on Ekko Agus Supratikno as Chef De Partie specialising in Indian cuisine. For over seven years, Chef Ekko has been working in an impressive array of Indian restaurants and five-star resorts around the world, and he now brings his wealth of knowledge about India’s traditional flavours and progressive cooking techniques to Sands Restaurant. Must-tries include Chef Ekko’s signature savoury kebabs and aromatic curries with Indian breads. Tel: +62 361 759 991 www.theanvayabali.com 42

SALAZON Salazon is a sleek new edition to the Seminyak dining scene where smooth and smoky barrel-aged drinks are served tableside from a trolley, the chefs cure and smoke their own meats and fish in house, and guests can choose bottles to accompany their meal from a carefully curated wine cellar. We suggest sidling up to the lengthy bar and indulging in signature cocktails like the Burnt Lemon Daiquiri or Grapefruit Margarita before heading to a table for shared plates like the Beef Tartare infused with cured beef fat and chives, Baked Stracciatella Cheese with toast soldiers and the Salt Baked Spanish Mackerel. Tel: +62 361 934 2100 www.facebook.com/Salazonbali/

ANCIENT ROOTS, CONTEMPORARY FLAVOURS Ji Terrace by the Sea is putting a new twist on an ancient culinary tradition with their contemporary Japanese bento boxes available for lunch every day between 12pm and 4pm. While the concept remains the same as the traditional Japanese bento box, the flavour combinations are fresh and innovative. Take for example the Sada Yaiko Bento with chilled soba noodles in a citrus broth, garlic and nori tofu croquettes and zucchini with feta, almond, tempe and lemon in a sake dressing. Wash it down with an Oba Margarita as you enjoy the sea breezes and uninterrupted views of surfers riding waves on the Indian Ocean. Tel: +62 361 473 1701 www.jiatbalesutra.com

COCOON BEER CYCLE Tired of the same old bar scene where you plunk yourself down at a table or bar and settle in for a few hours of low-level excitement? If so, then Cocoon has a new beer drinking adventure that shakes up the routine. Bali Beer Cycle is an open-air trolley modelled on the pedal-powered beer bikes in Europe, but completely motor-powered. Onboard you’ll find two rows of seats and counters with built-in beer holders running the length of the vehicle and a tap at the front for pints of icy cold Bintang. Perfect for parties or just a unique beer drinking experience, Bali Beer Cycle offers a range of packages for all types of outings. Tel: +62 361 731 266 www.cocoon-beach.com 44

GROW UP Earlier this year, Petitenget welcomed Grow to Seminyak’s vibrant dining scene, and we’ve been loving Chef Ryan Clift’s farm-to-table, sustainable cuisine ever since. Favourites on the menu include the Destroyed Avocado brekkie, the Slow-cooked Octopus and the homemade Strozzapreti pasta with 48-hours braised oxtail ragout. Now this fresh-faced space offers a new addition—the Grow Up Rooftop Bar. Featuring an open-air terrace with comfy cushioned chairs and a sheltered bar that invites interaction, this is fast becoming one of our new go-to spots for contemporary cocktails and shared plates. Tel: +62 361 894 7908 www.growbali.com

PALETAS WEY NEWS LOCALES Artisan popsicle producer Paletas Wey has come a long way since opening their small Kerobokan shop three years ago with just four fruity flavours. Since then, the brand has been opening shops left, right and centre across Indonesia and wowing people with their handmade Mexican frozen treats featuring all natural ingredients and no chemicals or artificial flavouring. Their two latest openings are at Bintang Supermarket in stylish Seminyak and at main entrance area of the iconic Tanah Lot temple. Both locales are already drawing in fans with a frenzy of flavours like watermelon-lime, vanilla-Oreo, banana-Nutella, kiwi, durian and chocolate. Tel: +62 361 907 2921 www.paletaswey.com

AYANA KOMODO RESORT Labuan Bajo will soon welcome AYANA Komodo Resort, the first and only five-star resort set on the sands of stunning Waecicu Beach. Slated to open in the summer of 2018, this spectacular property will feature 12 suites and 189 premium guest rooms, each one inspired by open living and offering mind-bending views of white sand beaches, crystal clear waters and green rolling hills. The resort will also feature three pools, a selection of restaurants including an authentic Japanese teppanyaki restaurant and a rooftop bar, and plenty of activities such as excursions to see Komodo dragons, glass-bottom boat rides and luxury yacht voyages on the AYANA Lako d’ia. www.ayana.com/en/labuan-bajo/ayana-komodo

ASIAN BISTRO EATS AT TIGER PALM Brought to us by Will Meyrick and The Sarong Group, Tiger Palm has always been all about authentic Asian flavours, but the menu just got a little bit more vibrant and adventurous under the direction of chef Palm Amatawet. The new modern Asian bistro menu takes influences from the Bali beach lifestyle, as well as contemporary culinary trends happening in the region. Expect lots of light seafood dishes like the Indonesian Fish Salad with tamarind, capsicum, peanut and lime and the Wanasari Crab Cake. Feeling famished? Try the Burmese Lamb Curry or the Slow-Braised Beef Cheek with pomegranate, cumin, tomato, dates and pickled chilli. Tel: +62 812 3634 3386 www.tigerpalmbali.com

NUSANTARA BY LOCAVORE Locavore is renowned for their commitment to locally sourced, seasonal Indonesian ingredients, and they take this passion with them to their newest venture just across the road from their flagship restaurant. Nusantara means ‘archipelago’, which is a fitting name for this eatery that celebrates the rich culinary heritage of Indonesia with dishes from across the nation. The kitchen team consists of chefs from Bali, West Java and North Sumatra, each bringing their knowledge of authentic flavours and innovative artistry to their creations. Expect local seafood, produce and ethical meats in a medley of vibrant plates that represent the heart and soul of Indonesian cuisine. Tel: +62 361 972 973 www.restaurantnusantara.com

WORDS OF WISDOM AT RUMAH SANUR Rumah Sanur just got a brand new look with artist Farid Stevy’s latest red and white work displayed proudly across their front stairs. Farid’s work draws on the wise words of renowned Indonesian journalist and novelist Mochtar Lubis; words that he believes reflect the shared values of Rumah Sanur and free thinkers around the world. This adds to the vibrant atmosphere of the creative hub where innovators, creators and entrepreneurs congregate to connect, collaborate and celebrate. In addition to meeting rooms and office space, the co-working space features a funky cafe and a concept shop selling artisan items made by local designers. Tel: +62 361 282 477 www.rumahsanur.com

DA MARIA

Da Maria Lemoncello. Lemoncello is an Italian lemon liqueur mainly produced in southern Italy. In northern Italy, the liqueur is often referred to instead as limoncino. It is a popular homemade liqueur and great digestive. Da Maria Lioncello is made with local organic lemons and a touch of love. Best served chilled + neat. www. damariabali.com

Handcrafted Natural

CAP: DEUS JONES TRUCKER (NAVY) 365K; PANTS:DEUS FORD PANTS (NAVY) 700K;

Bali Sea Salt.

BELT: JACOPO (CHESNUT) 750K; DEUS NECTAR CREAM) 395K.

www.soultyspice.com

www.deuscustoms.com

www.vdesign-living.com

(teakwood, yellow penshell)

brick fruit bowl stand

MADURA - AMETHYST $230.00

JFF by Vanessa Montiel.

www.bambusee.com

www.jf-f.com

John Hardy Legend Naga Gold and Silver Small Bracelet with Blue Sapphire Eyes $1,795.00;

Turtle Shape Wooden Wristwatch $47.95 www.creativewoodies.com

SELINE bracelet Silver with 18KT layer With black or white diamond and without. www.studioparas.com

John Hardy Legend Naga Silver Small Bracelet with Blue Sapphire, Black Spinel and Blue Sapphire Eyes $1,595.00 www.johnhardy.com/visit-us-in-bali

ONE OF A KIND HUMMINGBIRD ROOT NECKLACE $1585.00 www.nagicia.com

BALIFU SHOP: JALAN ARJUNA (DOUBLE SIX) BLOCK B NO 1 LEGIAN KAJA 80361 BALI INDONESIA TELP: +6285 953 784 088 WWW.BALIFUSARONGS.COM

www.AtlasPearls.com.au

andy wauman by arief Budiatna and felix immanuel.

artist andy wauman has fled these shores in search of the real indonesia. he spoke to tony stanton about his latest ventures in life.

people

Andy, what have you been doing since we last spoke? November last year I decided to stop shooting for brands and moved to Sumbawa with my wife. I shot over 40 campaigns worldwide and it was time to stop and to leave it to the next generation. We got our hands on 50 are of beautiful farm land in Alas Barat, and now we are in the middle of building a chili farm. The house is a traditional wooden rumah pangung on stilts, and in time we’ll most likely put the property on Airbnb so open-minded travellers can come and stay in our traditional house in the real Indonesia. How did you guys meet? I met my wife Baiq Dewi Yuningsih (she’s from the original Sasak tribe in Lombok) a few months ago and everything went on a rollercoaster. We travelled together all over Java, Lombok and other islands, and when we got back to Bali we got married. It’s been the most exciting time of my life. Some of the images you selected for this article are the result of my travels with my wife. Some of them where taken in Malang, in the Mount Bromo area, Sidoardjo, Sumbawa, Lombok … Why did you leave Bali? Honestly it had just got to the point where it was really hard for me to witness what was/is going on. It took thousands of years to build this beautiful and one-of-a-kind culture and now it is completely overwhelmed and destroyed by fashion trends and yoga-headed vegan hipsters … now the surf jet set is kicking in … what is all the fuzz about? All these people running around like chickens trying to be cool for a moment. Real life is elsewhere. What is it like living in Sumbawa? What is a typical day for you there? I naturally wake up around 5am and I start my morning run while the sun rises beyond the mountains. If I don’t do my morning run I go for a swim in the ocean. After that I do a bit of stretching. I spend some time in our garden and water some parts of the land and my wife and I have a nice breakfast. Every second day we go to the local markets to get fresh veggies and other foods. We grow most of the veggies and tropical fruits ourselves on our land. Lots of good fish here as it’s close to the Ocean. In the afternoon I do a bit of Yin Yoga and a bit of Hatha. The rest of the time goes to the property and my work. I’ve been reading into all aspects of Hinduism lately and fully studying everything related to Vedic culture, with full support from a university in Mumbai, India. Recently I started doing pencak silat with a local master here in Sumbawa. After my skateboard career I went into tai chi and fencing for a few years and I started missing that, and pencak silat popped up. It’s been very inspiring. We use Kundalini energy to dance/fight/move and we meditate for hours in caves. Pencak silat was created by local tribes to defend humans from attacks by animals. It’s a beautiful tradition. My Master is trying to find me the right kris. Very exciting. How has the move affected your work? I redirected my energy back onto my contemporary art (www.andywauman. com). Lots of good stuff started moving around. I went into full focus on research and study of tribal cultures, anthropology, alchemy, Buddhism, Hinduism, Yogic culture, Vedic culture … my spiritual and devotional practice became more and more important to me and my contemporary art started shifting.

Just getting to your Gutterdust work, what is it you love so much about palm trees? Or the sea? Or the sand? Or any of the repeating themes you use? The Palm Tree is a metaphor for my ‘Atman’, which is a Sanskrit word that means inner self or soul. In Hindu philosophy, especially in the Vedanta school of Hinduism, Atman is the first principle, the true self of an individual, the essence of an individual. In order to obtain liberation, a human being must acquire self-knowledge (Atman Jnana), which is to realise that one’s true self (Atman) is identical to the transcendent self Brahman. It’s part of the spiritual journey that I am on. When I look back on what I did as an art director / film photographer for www. gutterdust.com I noticed thousands of shots of palm trees, shot on film all over the world during my travels. So I decided to turn Gutterdust into a Palmtree Collective. I closed my Instagram down, removed everything that was related to brands and launched a new website www.gutterdust.com with prints for sale. Everything has been shot on film, and as my friend Ano Mac wrote on the site, “knobs have been twisted, chemicals used and mechanical mistakes made”. [He also wrote: “Splashed with light leaks, and the brush strokes of multiple over exposures the images are authentic and evocative with strong scents of summer breeze and fresh cut lawn. They are a refined collection of wonderfully tactile textures with a top-down wind-in-the-hair feeling that Gutterdust has developed into the Palmtree Collective.”] I’m also about to launch several full editions (prints) with Exhibition A in New York and Twyla in Texas for the US market. Gutterdust Prints are already in a few hotels in the US and Europe. What new directions have you taken? I just had a big show in the Museum of Contemporary Art in Belgium, where I launched my most recent film ‘The Palmtree Diaries’, an experimental silent film shot on Super 8. [check it out here https://filmfreeway.com/projects/941594] Again it forms part of the spiritual journey I am on. We have spoken about the Palmtree Collective aspect of my work, but the second layer in this film includes traces of spiritual writing, where I wrote elements out of ancient texts straight onto the film. The third layer is a collection of sacred symbols from Vedic culture, Hinduism, Buddhism, combined with Runes, an ancient Germanic alphabet used for writing, divination and magic. The film is reverently dedicated to all seekers of truth and lovers of wisdom. Ok we’ll check it out. One final question – who were you in a former life, do you think? That’s easy. In my former life I was a street dog. www.gutterdust.com

people

erika, what a vivacious and lovely person you are. Where does that all come from? Thank you. What a nice thing to say. Basically I was raised in a loving household. I was born in Puerto Rico and at five we moved to Miami, then Fort Myers, Florida. We’re from the Caribbean Dominican Republic and Puerto Rico, so we are happy people by nature! We are taught to laugh and enjoy life and to try to not get caught up in things. My mother is a strong, vivacious and charming woman, always smiling. She taught me that the most beautiful part of a woman is her smile and femininity and to embrace it. Your hometown is having a pretty hard time of it at the moment, what’s the story over there? Puerto Rico was hit by three storms and two of most powerful hurricanes of all time in the Caribbean, and it has really affected the island (and indeed most of the Caribbean islands). Most of the country is still without water and electricity. We are a Territory of the United States so we depend on the US for assistance, but it seems the current government doesn’t care to provide what’s needed to get the country back on its feet. Luckily our fellow American citizens have picked up where the government has failed, and I know Puerto Ricans are so grateful to the brothers and sisters on the mainland and worldwide for coming through in times of needs. This has taught me a great lesson and made me love being American. How can we help? You can visit my friend’s gofundme page here https://www.generosity. com/emergencies-fundraising/maria-puerto-rico-real-time-recovery-fund and here https://www.gofundme.com/CenturyForPR. She’s one of the most inspiring and hardworking women I know, so I feel good knowing she’s in charge. Tell us about your love of clothes, and how you got started in the fashion industry. My mom said that when I was four I told her I was going to be a fashion designer and sell worldwide, so I’ve always wanted to do this. I took a summer program when I was 13 at Parsons in NYC and loved it so when I graduated high school I moved to NYC, attended the school . . . and the rest is history.

What makes Bali special for you? Its people and energy. I feel creative and at peace here. I have designed my creations here, met my soulmate and created my daughter here. It’s home to me. Of course we can’t help noticing you’re going to have a baby pretty soon! Are you excited, scared, nervous? Very excited, grateful that she’s coming soon, nervous and yes scared, since I’ve never been a mother. But I was born to be a mother, so I feel very blessed. Do you already have a clothing line planned out for her? Yes! I’ve been so inspired to create beautiful outfits for Valentina Jules and would like to name the brand in her honour. We had lunch recently and we talked about pregnancy and how it relates to a woman’s age … there’s so much pressure as a girl heads towards the big 40 … how difficult a journey has it been for you? I’ve been trying for many years and I got pregnant but lost three babies, but finally when I let go of the idea of getting pregnant naturally and planned to start IVF, I fell pregnant. What I realised is that I needed to relax and surrender to the universe and let it come naturally with no pressure. The positive energy replaced the stressed/negative energy of the not having instead of the having. My advice to all women is to believe and let go, then it will come. Do you think men have it easy in this regard? Yes in some ways, but also they have it hard having to keep up with us women. Why are the simplest things in the world often so difficult, do you think? Because we over think them and put so much energy into things instead of letting go. Bali has taught me to let go and enjoy.

How would you define the Erika Peña style? Bold, tribal, chic, feminine and timeless. I want women that wear Erika Peña pieces to feel and look like the goddesses we are.

Will you be having your baby in Bali? No, we wanted to be surrounded by family so we’re having the baby in my partner’s hometown.

Where can we buy your clothes? We have two local stores, Erika Peña Boutiques in Canggu on Echo Beach and in Seminyak. We also sell online and ship everywhere from our website www.erikapena.com and we are stocked in stores worldwide.

When is due date? December 28th.

How did you end up in Bali? I went to China for production 10 years ago but didn’t enjoy my time

there or the conditions of the workplaces. So three months later my friends Allison and Grace invited me to Bali where they produced, and as soon as I set foot on the island I knew I would live here.

Erika, we wish you both all the best. Stay groovy. :) www.erikapena.com

Tony stanton engaged with fashion designer erika pena to talk love, clothes and a future filled with hope.

Godess-es.

Style by Erika Pena Asst. Stylist Veronika Pagan Make-up Sofia Selina Photographer Dasha Almazova Shot at Ulu Cliffhouse

sounds around

Deer ouble D d n a izky Kimo R king e brea r a s d Recor ter to fos round g w e n a new tion to c u d o pr music local young f o n atio gener ed him track k a Y e t. Th talen g. hinwa for a c n w o d

face of the future.

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people

Yann, I almost fell off my chair when I read you are a BMX biker! Tell us more. I started at 10 years old, and the adrenaline was so unreal that I fell in love with this hobby and started to take part in competitions every weekend travelling all over the country with dudes and trainer (French contests, European contests etc). I finished third place in my category at the French Championships 2000. First memories of passion? Doing big dirty jumps in the middle of nature with my mates. First memories of pain? Massive fall on the skate park with no helmet (ha, ha). Who was the first person to cut your hair? My grandma, when she saw my messy blondish white curly hair, she took her kitchen scissors and cut it until it looked decent again. In your mind, does competing in BMX have anything to do with hairstyling? Yes, it does. Both are challenging, competitive, and somehow both BMX and hairstyling requires you to use your craft and creativity to stand out from the crowd. What was Paris like for a 19 year old? Any stand out moments? Fun! Funky parties . . . sex, drugs, and rock & roll. Name your mentor and any memories you have of them. Nicolas Jurnjack for being such an inspiring man in the fashion and hair world. You styled for Timberlake, Westwood and Gaultier. Which one was the most diva and why? Gaultier! Because of his ultimate flair of making people look outstanding. He has his own great style and to me the clothes he makes stand out from the rest with a big touch of femininity. Worst hair disaster ever? This young lady from Brisbane moved to Singapore a year ago, called me over the phone and exclaimed, “I’ve just had the worst haircut in my life, I look like a mullet! Can you help me fix it?” We arranged an appointment, she came over to have her hair fixed. After couple of hours she finally felt beautiful, confident and trendy again. Latest award? Women’s Weekly Hair Awards 2017 – Best Haircut in town, and Best In-Salon Treatment. Golden Scissors Award 2017 – Best salon design.

You live in Singapore. Name your top three bars, your top two restaurants and your one guilty pleasure. Top three bars – Manhattan Bar, Atlas, Operation Dagger. Top two restaurants – L’atelier de Joel Robuchon and Beni. Guilty Pleasure – Lemon tarts @ Laurent Bernard. You joined Vidal Sasoon. Tell us a bit more about those formative years in London Town. It was an unforgettable experience. Every single day during and after staff training I perfected my skills and learned something new about hair, suitability, bone structure, shapes … working with amazing individuals in the fashion industry. What was the tipping point that made you move to Asia? Stepping out of my comfort zone. Learning something new. Challenging myself on a new continent. Learn and play. You own a totally fabulous, minimalist, uber-sexy salon in Wisma Atria in Singapore – who designed it? I did the design myself since architecture and interior design inspired me a lot, even in hair and shapes. If I wasn’t a hairdresser, I would be an architect. Out of all the famous people you have preened and primed, was there any great advice you got from any of them? Work hard but always remember to play hard as well. Lastly, is there any amazing advice you can give to us, (follicle or otherwise)? Don’t be afraid of change. Hair is your best expression and personality and your best accessory. Break the boundaries, hair grows… go wow or go home. “ The joy of hair is an art. Thank you for your time Yann! www.yannbeyrie.com

nn a ya on . st ye re li r e po y u ga st m ir t o sin hi his a o h gh o t nd ch cau ip t ke a n o g r e ie t sp lin fr yr nt y y gb st be ce di ir, . re ie a x ph t h bm o s ou of ab ve lo

Bali baby Polly Purser talks to Stephanie Mee about her role as

Director of Heritage and Design at jewellry outfit John Hardy.

hardy heritage.

people

Hi Polly. So let’s start at the beginning. Where were you born and how did you spend your childhood years? I spent my childhood here in Bali, first in Batu Jimbar, Sanur, then in Ubud. My parents came to Bali in the ’60s on a two-week honeymoon that never ended. I remember life with no electricity, just oil lamps lit at sunset, water carried in buckets from the river to bathe in, catching dragonflies with tree sap in the rice fields, and collecting giant shells on the beach. I moved to Australia when I was eight years old, then moved back to Indonesia, first to Java where my father lives and then to Bali to work for John Hardy 16 years ago. At what point in your life did jewellery design become a passion? I’ve always loved beautiful things. As a child I remember looking at my mother’s jewellery collection with awe. She never took her jewellery very seriously – ruby earrings lost in the frenzy of a Balinese ceremony or diamonds left in fruit bowls in our open-bale home in Ubud. I was also fascinated with the Balinese sense of adornment and decoration. I studied Jewellery and Object Design at Sydney University before life took a very different course and I did a double major in Social Work and Community Development, working mainly in Australia and Southeast Asia focusing on women and empowerment. Coming to John Hardy as Design Director and now working in Heritage has been an experience that has come full circle. Creating beauty with a sense of consciousness and social responsibility here in Bali where I began is a blessing. What exactly does the job of Director of Heritage and Design entail? It’s a relatively new position for John Hardy and myself and it is ever evolving. To me it entails identifying and preserving what is so unique and special about what we do here and especially in Bali. It’s about the heritage of the brand and its history and relationship with local culture, tradition and community. My role is to share this rich heritage with people visiting John Hardy on the island and globally. Can you tell us a bit about what makes the brand so special? Each and every piece of John Hardy jewellery is still created by hand. We work with master artisans harnessing traditional techniques intrinsic to Balinese culture. For example, the designs are rendered in the tradition of artists from Batuan and the 3D wax models are carved by talent from villages like Batubulan or Mas where there are long lineages of carvers. We have women whose nimble fingers can move swiftly from weaving traditional offerings to weaving strands of gold and silver link by link, creating our iconic chain bracelets and necklaces. Using this unique craft, it takes four days to create one John Hardy bracelet, and it will be woven almost entirely by Balinese women. What makes Balinese craftsmanship unique compared to other jewellerymaking traditions? The Balinese have a collective spirit, so there is less individual ego and ownership of a piece or project and more openness to work together to get

the best result. A designer can work on an idea then hand it to a wax carver who interprets the design in his own way, adding his spirit and personality, and then a jeweler will assemble and finish the piece. We have 750 artisans at John Hardy working together to create the jewellery, and most of them have been with us for over 10 years. People feel a sense of community and belonging as well as pride to be part of the process. John Hardy aims to be a sustainable company. What green initiatives do you have in place? Our founders John and Cynthia were both, and still are, inspirational ecowarriors way ahead of their time. Our company was founded on principles of sustainability and we remain committed to that from the use of recycled silver in our production, ethical sourcing of all our stones and diamonds, and offsetting carbon emissions by planting bamboo in Bali. This year we celebrated the planting of our one-millionth bamboo. Our next chapter is working with Arief Rabik, son of the late Linda Garland, on an exciting program called 1,000 Bamboo Villages, which takes bamboo planting to the next step by providing economic benefits directly to the communities involved. Although there are John Hardy boutiques in Houston, L.A., New York and Bali, all the magic happens in Mambal. Can you tell us a bit about the workshop? Seeing is believing and feeling is knowing. I invite you to come and experience it yourself. There are not many companies in the world that open their doors to customers to see first-hand how their jewellery is made and then invite you to join the team for a delicious organic farmer’s lunch. The John Hardy boutique, Kapal Bamboo, is like a cathedral of bamboo housing the newest collections. The workshop and boutique are the ultimate expression of the brand’s values of artisanship and community. What new and exciting things are happening at John Hardy that we should know about? We just launched ‘Made for Legends’, a fabulous new ad campaign celebrating the personal power of femininity through the bold philosophy of wearing jewellery to express, empower, and most of all to honour the unstoppable potential of the self. Made for Legends is a call for women to live on their own terms and build their legend, and is embodied by modern day icons Julianne Moore and Adwoa Aboah. Secondly, we are about to launch the John Hardy Master classes here at the Ubud workshop. Guests will have the rare chance to work in tandem with master artisans and customise their own piece of John Hardy jewellery. This intimate experience will include learning about the unique eight-step process, an exclusive behind-the-scenes tour of the workshop, and an organic on-site lunch alongside the design team and artisans. www.johnhardy.com

feature

harry m a r k He shoots . . . he scores. Meet the marvelous Harry Mark, the latest lensman to come out of the surf.

behind the camera.

So Harry. No need to tell you as I am sure you already know – but here goes: your work is awesome. Thanks, I really appreciate the kind words. So what’s your back story? Where are you from and how did you grow up? I was fortunate enough to grow up in Noosa Heads, Australia. A beautiful part of the world with a strong surf culture, which meant growing up in and around the ocean. I’m pretty lucky to base myself in another tropical paradise now – Bali, Indonesia. Which came first, the surfboard or the camera? The surfboard, of course. It was my first love of surfing that made me branch out into photography. Who have you worked for? I’ve had the privilege to work for some incredible companies all around the globe in places like Australia, Indonesia, Japan and United States. Although it hardly feels like work. I am very fortunate in where my “job“ takes me. What are the chances for other surf photographers out there? It must be competitive… Yeah sure the surf photography game is super competitive, but I’d never label myself as one. My work tends to span a much broader range including travel and portraiture. Oh, and I love to shoot motorcycles! A few of the big print titles have gone down in the last couple of years, so I guess most of your work is online these days? Predominately yes. I suppose everyone’s is these days. However I’d much rather have a print article run than online. For me print is a much greater medium – there really is nothing like holding a photo in your

hands. A lot of my work still ends up in print whether it be company books, framed prints or advertisements. I must admit it is especially cool to see you work printed billboard size – definitely beats an iPhone screen, any day of the week! Does the online environment suit you? Absolutely. Although I don’t pursue it as hard as I should, my online presence has helped me land numerous jobs. What’s the scariest thing you have seen while you’re sitting in the water with your camera? Sharks. A few years ago there was an attack on a body boarder out at North Wall Ballina, NSW, and I was stupid enough to swim out a couple days later at the same spot in some really nice waves. I had a shark come real close and circle me, and it was fair to say I’ve never swam to shore so quick! When you hit a destination, what’s first for you? Have a surf or get the camera whirring? Depends if it’s an assignment or personal trip. If I’m on assignment, as soon as the plane wheels touch the ground it’s straight to work, camera at the hip. Personal trips … surfing takes priority straight away. Where’s next on your photo roadshow? I've got a few trips lined up – United States, Japan, Java, Australia and Europe too. I like to keep my options open though, traveling is something I love. Harry, thanks so much for your time and for sharing your work with us. My pleasure guys, thanks! www.harrymarkphoto.com

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if it floats, rides or skates, shoot it.

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the yak sat down with preeminent documentary photographer sebastiao salgado to talk empathy, meaning and truth. Portrait: david kregenow.

the man who has seen it all.

passions

Bali is extraordinary in many ways, not least in its ability to attract gifted scholars, artists and thinkers to its shores. Certainly over the years there have been some greats . . . Walter Spies, Miguel Covarrubias and Pandit Nehru were all beguiled by the island, so why was I surprised to learn that the world’s preeminent documentary photographer Sebastiao Salgado has a house here? For those unfamiliar with the name, surely one glance at some of his more iconic images will stir recognition for his extraordinary projects. Often spending years on each subject, his work has spanned the bleak mudcovered miners climbing hellish pits in the Serra Pelada gold mine in Brazil to oil-soaked workers in the wartorn oilfields of Kuwait, to the epic mountain ranges of the Arctic in Alaska – his work possesses qualities most photographers today seem to have forgotten about in this selfie-dominated world: empathy, meaning, truth. Salgado is truly one of the last great photographers. For more than four decades he has travelled the planet, first capturing human conditions one can scarcely imagine, and, later on, documenting untouched landscapes and civilisations that no one thought real. His oeuvre has included such classics as Workers (1986-1992), Exodus (1993-1999), Genesis (2004-2011) and a special portfolio titled Other Americas (1977 onwards). To understand the man is to understand his work. Born in 1944 on a farm surrounded by forests in Minas Gerais, Brazil – “the most beautiful place on the planet” – he never touched a camera until he was in his mid twenties, yet his birthplace was to play a large part in the rest of his life. “I had incredible light when I was a child in Brazil,” he recalls. “And this light stayed inside me. When I see my own photography, these are my lights from Minas Gerais that I bring with me.” Salgado’s projects, like his style, manifested over time. With a strong background in economics, and having travelled to Africa often for missions as an economist, his passion lies in attempting to understand the world, and our place in it. “I studied macroeconomics,” he said. “It was a mixture of sociology, anthropology and mathematics. And these made a huge contribution to my cultural background.” The grand narrative of Salgado’s work – the brutal impact of globalisation, war and conflict on the poorest people – remains startlingly relevant today. Workers, for example, depicts the plight of the last manual labourers toiling away in an ever more industrialised and globalised world, and Exodus

came naturally after seeing people in developing countries uprooted from their homes by the same global phenomenon. When working on his projects, Salgado spends months, years, with these communities to truly understand and capture the most profound images for the world to see. It hasn’t been without personal cost. Whilst working on Exodus, Salgado saw so much war, death and destruction in Rwanda and the Balkans that he started to physically and psychologically waste away. He saw bulldozers stack mountains of corpses at a cholera-stricken refugee camp; he saw thousands of dying orphans laid out on train tracks and thousands more dying around them. It was killing him. His doctor said his body was giving up, and he had to stop. “I was so upset with the things that I saw,” he said. “I became deeply depressed. I went back to Brazil, and we received the farm from my parents. I thought, ‘No more photography. I’ll become a farmer’.” Yet when he returned Salgado saw that the forested paradise that he grew up in was, like him, mostly destroyed. From what had been 60 percent forest, only half-a-per¬cent was left. Not knowing what to do, it was his wife Lélia who suggested he replant the rainforest. With help from friends and environmental organisations, Salgado was able to completely rehabilitate his land – now known as the Instituto Terra, a non-profit organisation with a mission of reforestation, conservation and education on the environment. Rehabilitating the land also rehabilitated Salgado’s soul. “When we started, we became so close to nature,” he said. “I then had a huge wish to go photograph the planet – to see what was pristine. From there, we conceived the Genesis project.” Salgado is still pushing his cause forward. His current project has taken him back into the Amazon, documenting Indian tribes. “I am working on a story about the tribes of Amazonia,” he told me, “about the rainforest, about the system of water. Amazonia is huge, 3.5 million square kilometres. I am trying to do a body of work to see if I can participate in the protection of the Amazon. The day we destroy the rainforest is the day we will change the system of rain and humidity around the planet. Inside this space we have amazing people, at least 100 groups that have yet to be contacted. These people are living in our pre-history.

passions

Marine iguana Galapagos, Ecuador 2004.

Mudman. Western Highlands Province. Papua New Guinea 2008.

passions above and right: Gold mine of Serra Pelada State of Para Brazil 1986.

passions

“It is not easy to get there, to meet them,” he said. “I have been working for one year to get permission to do this project from the Ministry of the Interior in Brazil. Once authorized, they must send someone to talk to the Indians, to see if they agree. They have many meetings, it takes weeks to reach a decision. And when the decision is taken you are advised and you prepare to go. “First we take a regular flight, then hire a Cessna Caravan, a small plane, to fly to a tiny place and there we must do a medical examination because we cannot carry any diseases to these tribes. “After the examination we have one further week of quarantine, then we jump in a boat and have to navigate the river for five days to reach the base of the Indian reservation, where we must wait two days before walking for a further day to reach the first tribes. Then I will spend around six weeks with them. It’s very isolated. There is no internet, no electricity, nothing. I have a satellite phone which I can use to contact my wife every two days, I have solar panels which I have used all around the world on other projects. It’s so peaceful. Most of these Indians, the last value in their scale of values is violence. They are not violent at all. If there is a conflict, of interest, of position, it is made in a common discussion. “It’s a kind of sterilization of the problem. You have a big meeting, 40 or 50 people sit around, you come in the middle, the person that you are having a conflict with in front of you, and you say you did this, the other replies … but then someone says, excuse me, I was there and I interpreted the situation in this way, a different way. And after two or three hours the issue is finished, and then they have a huge party. The most basic things about the first trips into the forest startled him. “What is amazing when I first started to work with the Indian community I had the impression it would be very difficult for me to be with

them, because I don’t speak the language, because they live in a completely different way, close to nature, everything they have to feed them to take care of them comes from nature and I said my god, how will I, coming from an industrial society, cope with this life? “But then I discovered, in two days, anyone, even you, feels adapted. Do you know why? Because you are going inside your community, a community of homo sapiens, of humans. What is essential for them is essential for me … love, relations inside your family, solidarity, the idea of community, these are the real values in society. When you come – as I did in Genesis – inside a community of lions, gorillas, tortoises, of whales, it’s much more difficult, because everyone has a logical system. It’s a big lie to think we are the only rational species. Every species is deeply rational, but inside the logical system of the species is very difficult for us to identify. But when you come to your own community it is so easy. In two days you are home, and you can do what you want.” His Amazonian adventures are the world laid bare for a man who thought he had seen it all. “In the end, we are the same. Look at our story, the story of homo sapiens. Around 70,000 years ago we left east Africa, and the beginning of the middle east, and from there we spread and we met other humanoids in Flores, but homo sapiens were not able to match with them, biologically, and this species disappeared. But homo sapiens spread further, to Australia, 45,000 years ago, they crossed the ice bridge between Asia and Alaska, they went up to America, to northern Europe, so when the Spanish arrived in America for what they thought was the first time, they met themselves! Same with the Portuguese. It’s amazing! And these guys that we are going to meet in Amazonia, it’s just us that went before, like going to meet us . . . ourselves.”

Yanomami territory State of Roraima Brazil 2014.

passions Drying coffee. Pusat Gayo Higland, Sumatra Island, Indonesia 2014.

Dinka cattle camp, Sudan, 2006.

omnibus

Someone commented recently that she thought my worldview was somewhat dark, I replied that it makes it easier to see the light. Pinpricks and rare flashes that illuminate potential; that polarise (in the sense of lenses that cut through glare) the illusion that brightness brings – mirages conjured by the mendacious and maladroit. It’s been a hell of a year hasn’t it? I’d like to be gobsmacked, astounded and amazed that, as we move towards the end of the year and into 2018, there are people – who apparently know what they’re talking about – actually applying odds to the likelihood of nuclear war. Some as grim as 50/50. But given the grubby qualities of certain national leaders these days, I’m kind of not. I do, however, ponder if “peace” has become passé. What does the concept mean to you? Some might say that peace can be found in the raptures of orthodox religion, so let’s head back in time to the peer-reviewed transcript and all-time best-selling book, The Bible, and its Old Testament God who claims kudos for kicking off the whole human thing . . . and everything else on the place we call Earth. As far as I can make out God suffers from obsessive-compulsive disorder, as revealed in a 10-point plan allegedly printed on stone slabs and delivered to a chap named Moses on the summit of a hill (possibly) located in a place we now refer to as Egypt. Point one: I am the Lord thy (your) God! Thou (you) shalt have no other Gods but me! Not only did He invent the exclamation mark, He just dissed all the other gods who came before him. And probably spent inordinate amounts of time washing his hands of them. Point five: Thou shalt not kill! On the whole an admirable sentiment, except when one considers that God demands unconditional love, and failing that threatens to kill you, your family, and your pets in myriad unspeakable ways. And threatens to unleash an unspecified “pestilence” on all the rest of you who might have an each-way flutter on the nature of faith. Point nine: Do not let thyself lust after thy neighbor’s wife! Yep, fairly obvious, but it raises the (Angel)

Gabriel, (Virgin) Mary and (husband) Joseph-ofNazareth conundrum. Then, in the literary sequel New Testament (with its Gospels, Psalms and letters to The Editor), comes God’s revisionist Son – you know who he is – who basically acknowledges his Father’s propensity for grumpiness but reminds us that He’s got our best interests at heart, and that He created us in His own image. For which we must all give thanks and enter into various existential crises linked with the tricky “free-will” caveat that he threw into the mix as a loyalty test . . . He also suggests that “love” is a good thing (as long as we all love Him) but that when power junkies are kicking lesser mortals in the arse, the righteous thing to do is “turn the other cheek”. Peace in subservience? There are obviously many who have contemplated the nature of “peace” in the intervening period but I will fast-forward to more recent ruminations on what it might be. And contemplate that it is regarded popularly as a comparative concept that only exists in the context of war. Singer, “proto-rapper”, novelist, poet, teacher and civil-rights activist Gil Scott-Heron in Work for Peace writes: “If everyone believed in Peace the way they say they do, we’d have Peace. The only thing wrong with Peace, is that you can’t make no money from it . . . “Peace is not the absence of war, it is the absence of the rules of war and the threats of war and the preparation for war . . .” Perhaps we should pay heed to the words of another African American, Martin Luther King Jr., when he said in a speech (before he was shot to death by someone who didn’t agree with him): “I have a dream that my four little children will one day live in a nation where they will not be judged by the colour of their skin, but by the content of their character.” Sorry, noble friend of humanity, not happening, especially in the country of your birth. Or Mahatma Gandhi: “Nobody can hurt me without my permission. Let others hate you and talk behind your back. Their hate can’t affect you without your consent.” Yes it can. People of my vintage like to reminisce about the

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lyrical genius John Lennon, and his anthem Give Peace a Chance. Unfortunately he didn’t avail us of a follow-up record that expanded on his thesis about the nature of “peace” and how to achieve it. It would be wonderful if all of us could afford to occupy a large bed (not necessarily with Yoko Ono) for extended periods in a swanky Amsterdam hotel suite, smoking a whack-load of weed, and selling another form of dope to a sycophantic celebrity press pack. I’m pretty sure John Lennon was very sincere in his desire that peace might be achievable, if only a more sizable portion of the population advocated for it. “The only thing wrong with Peace, is that you can’t make no money from it . . .” Lao Tzu lived about 2,500 years ago and is credited with being the founder of the Taoist philosophical tradition, and being the author of a text titled Tao Te Ching, in which he says: “Music in the soul can be heard by the Universe”. Perhaps this is the real contribution made by the John Lennons of this world – that, if we are able to find the appropriate tuning and tonal qualities, the Universe reflects upon us a sense of joy and love, no matter who we are in the corporeal scheme of things. Crank up the volume, friends . . . At this point may I beseech you to dial up YouTube and watch a video that features two fabulous musicians – Prince, who left us in 2016, and Tom Petty, who graduated (with Honour) in 2017 – that features a performance of While My Guitar Gently Weeps, celebrating the induction of Prince and (former Beatle) George Harrison into the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame. It might just bring you a few minutes of happiness and reflection. Feel good about the look on Dhani Harrison’s face as Prince rips into a most stunning, theatrical guitar solo. Oh baby, oh yeah! There’s some peace and love in there. “Being deeply loved by someone gives you strength, while loving someone deeply gives you courage,” Lao Tzu says, and also that, “those who do not compete, therefore, no one can compete with them.” Which is a salutary admonishment for those who live in a world that, at an elemental level, is founded upon notions of internecine combat and narcissistic intent. Reflected and reinforced by the electronic reality replacements you are addicted to – that promote a world where productivity is measured moment-bymoment by banal bean counters who appropriate a deep indulgence of the mean, but not the meaning.

Where personal value is a value judgment made by others, ill equipped but validated by a form of words that has been conferred by intellectual cowards. Where subservience is clothed in the silence of those who have every right to speak loudly in resistance to, and in dissent of, the modernist Dickensian entitlement that infests the corporatist commode. Where lies “inner peace”? In the skin tight-but-fashionable pants of a cacophony of calumnious, cracked actors who have created elitist cliques on a formerly “Tranquil Isle”? A place that was my home when “community” was contemplated in the context of what existed before we came. Not as an inexpensive service industry that caters to the base druthers of well-heeled refugees. In contemplating peace and what it might be, I’m at a loss. And the irony is that when I started to write this, I thought I might have something useful to offer on the topic. I don’t. The other day I bumped into an acquaintance of mine during what turned out to be a less than happy day for both of us. We swapped stories about power trippers and control freaks. She came up with a formula that (for redundant gender-based reasons) shocked me at first: “Keep it simple, keep it real . . . and just don’t be a c**t!” I looked at her, she looked at me and we started to laugh, and then we laughed some more. And in our laughter we found a fleeting moment of what might be peace. We continue to laugh now that we have a sign for what transpired between us that day: a two-fingered peace sign held over the heart in horizontal fashion. In the estimation of Lao Tzu it would be an “act without expectation”. And in the context of our shared moment it’s good enough. My hope is that we become friends sometime, but I’m not attached to propensities. May you all find a moment or two of peace that does not require the sacrifice of others as we lurch into another new year. May 2018 be kind to you and yours, and may you find some kindness and love for those who do not share your good fortune. No pressure . . . Andrew E. Hall is a former newspaper editor, journalism academic and Baliphile.

yesterday, all our troubles seemed so far away.

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-l uk & o la m st as d a y v br ke el - a lin yr s is h u t g a n o p - t ile d t -j ec he k ul rea ho on i l รถ a b o be ha ag ac ca ue i ti h r ca on at n g g u

yak fashion

blue one piece by super normal from bali boat shed. jewelry by ozlem esen.

yak fashion

zimmerman bikini from maidenlove. hat stylistsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; own.

one piece by maidenlove.

yak fashion super normal one piece. hat from fallen broken street, bali boat shed.

mara hoffman bikini from maidenlove. rings by christy feaver.

yak fashion bikini stylistsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; own.

Akoiaswim one piece. hat stylistsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; own. earrings just for the money

yak fashion blue and white one piece tie up by mara hoffman.

oral pleasures aya street is the hottest place in town . . . that feels a lot like home. words: sarah douglas. photos: lucky 8.

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If your Mum was a large and gregarious Peruvian, you would probably feel right at home at Aya Street. That is of course if Mum liked to add small rubber toys to her smoky cocktails and pole dance on her bathroom breaks. Oh, and she was an enthusiastic collector of street art. Aya Street is effervescent with loads of street cred and plenty of heart. The welcome is warm, the menu is inspired by Peruvian street food and the atmosphere is charged with friendship, cocktails and a small but very flexible menu. Chef Marco Cueva is at the centre of Aya Street. The restaurant wraps around his open kitchen and he chats to diners as he goes about the business of plating and preparation, adjusting his menu, making suggestions, and infusing the kitchen with his enthusiasm as he works. “I want it to feel like a home. You can rock up and let me know what you feel like and I’ll make it for you. The menu is small so that I can add or change it as I go. I cook the food I grew up with, inspired by my mother and grandmother and the street food of Peru,” explains Marco. “And I want a little of that feeling here, like coming home.” Cocktails, inspired by South American flavours, fly over the bar; adorned by small toys, spiked with chili or smoking with dry ice. The cocktail menu plays large in the dining experience. Sitting at the counter overlooking the large open kitchen (where chef Marco is the link between the menu and the guests) is recommended. The former La Favela chef, a native Peruvian, is familiar to many of his guests. As are his fellow partners. Junanjo Suarez is behind the successful Shelter café and Nalu Bowls, while fellow director Rafael has been supplying some of Bali’s best chefs with a range of superfoods for the last few years. Aya Street often feels like a collective of their many friends. People know each other, wave, call across the bar. If Marco has seen you before he very likely remembers what you ate and will suggest something new. With this crew, it’s little wonder that Aya Street feels like a party every night, and if you didn’t know anyone when you arrived, chances are you’ll have made new friends by the time you leave. Aya Street’s menu is literally just a two-sided card with a great selection of Peruvian favourites; from the national dish, ceviche, to a vibrant, vegetarian toradito (Peruvian sashimi), to a host of grills, stir fries and some lighter dishes. “I have adapted the dishes I grew up with. I bought some seeds over and a friend grows them for me. The yellow chili from Peru is quite distinctive in taste and I am growing it here. The only thing I import is the beef. For the rest, I want to support local businesses and also show the local chefs how to create these recipes with ingredients they can find here,” explains Marco. Sitting up at the bar watching the food being prepared is a lot of fun. The chef has a station at the edge of the hot kitchen where he painstakingly finishes every dish. Watching where every spot of spicy mayonnaise goes, piling the grilled meat just so, creating mosaics with seafood and vegetables. The plates reflect the volcanic elements of the restaurant.

Dark and moody and the perfect foil for the vibrant colours found in the food. Peruvians have an innate knowledge of all the culinary elements at play in their diverse country. A meal at home may well combine elements of Spain, Italy, Japan, China and Peru all in one plate. This is possibly the most multicultural of all cuisines. We had heard the ceviche here was good and our meal began with this, but not before we were served a welcoming soup. A traditional fish stock made with wine, herbs and chili was delightful and warming and set the scene for a dinner that wakes the palette up to new flavour combinations. The ceviche was every bit as good as advertised, one of the best I have had. With large chunks of firm white fish, the famous tiger’s milk – a broth created from the salting and marinating of the fish – mingling with fresh radish, sliced red chili and burnished baby corn. The tiradito followed, glistening slices of watermelon “cooked” sous vide, then roasted, layered with asparagus and hazelnuts and topped with a truffle mayonnaise. According to the chef he created the dish for vegetarians so they could feel they were having something ‘meaty’. Vegans can omit the mayonnaise. We had started with cocktails. A Funky Duck for me, with a cute little yellow duck floating on top, the refreshing cocktail is inspired by the signature pisco sours of Peru. A coconut mojito, long and cold with a bright red chili as garnish, for my partner. From there we moved on to house wine. The happy hour from 6-8pm every night offers cocktails at Rp65k, so it’s worth arriving early. The house wine, a quaffable Spanish table wine, is priced at Rp95k. Dishes continued to be replaced with almost lightning speed. There’s a lot to take in at Aya Street as people come and go, dishes are plated and replaced, wait staff and the chef check in with you and a lively sound track plays out. Street inspired art adorns the wall and a trip to the bathrooms is literally ‘a trip’. Next up was a famous Peruvian dish, la causa, a kind of spicy mashed potato. Marinated with yellow chili and mingled with avocado, it’s usually served alone or with seafood, while ours was served with spicy, char-grilled chicken, a side of Kalamata mayo, and a tangle of fried potato to add another textural element. A Peruvian mixed grill followed; a beautiful, pink, charred steak is laid out over a smear of potato, scattered sautéed mushrooms glowed with chimichurri, a quinoa risotto side, topped with a brilliant sesame foam. Full on flavours, textures, spices and a world of culinary influences play off each other, like a block party on a plate. The chef explains the origins, as we go, “this is Peruvian/Med, this one is Asian…” Dessert brings it all together with one of South America’s most famous exports, chocolate, oozing out of a perfect, little volcano cake, served with a refreshing side of mango sorbet. Aya Street is all it promises, eclectic, energetic, casual and fun. Peruvian street food meets the streets of Bali with a cracking good beat to wash it all down.

beats, street art and bespoke cocktails at Aya.

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legendary japanese restaurant sake no hana comes to Bali courtesy of our friends at the Hakkasan group. words: stephanie mee. The Japanese word shun has no English equivalent, but it refers to the exact moment when an ingredient is at its peak. Take for example asparagus in the summer when it bursts with flavour or tuna caught in the winter when the flesh is marbled with fat. Shun is so deeply ingrained in Japanese culture that chefs bow to it, markets revolve around it and many restaurants change everything down to the tableware with the seasons. Here in Bali an extraordinary new restaurant is celebrating shun in all its glory.

maximise the panoramic views of the Indian Ocean.

Perched high on a limestone cliff overlooking some of the best surf breaks on the planet, Sake no Hana is Bali’s newest Japanese dining experience brought to us by the globally renowned Hakkasan Group. This dynamic hospitality group is responsible for worldclass dining and nightlife venues across the globe including the over-the-top OMNIA nightclub in Las Vegas and namesake Hakkasan Michelin-starred Chinese restaurants.

Indulgences at Sake no Hana include a selection of premium seafood, meats and vegetables subtly seasoned and cooked to smoky perfection over a charcoal grill, toban style meals cooked in a ceramic skillet and served at the table to share, and kamameshi rice pot dishes, as well as obscenely fresh sushi and sashimi prepared to order at the sushi bar. Complementing the culinary delights are premium sakes, handcrafted cocktails and fine wines from around the world.

Sake no Hana and the adjoining OMNIA Dayclub are the Hakkasan Group’s first foray in Southeast Asia, and they are already upping the ante on the luxury dayclub experience. Situated on a 100-metre plateau on the eastern edge of Alila Villas Uluwatu, this luxury leisure venue boasts jaw-dropping views you won’t find anywhere else on the island, sublime sushi and modern Japanese eats and a drink list to rival even the swankiest of nightclubs. Step into Sake no Hana and you can tell from first glance that this is no ordinary eatery. Framed by nature, the stunning open-air space features wooden latticework by Singapore-based eco-architectural firm WOHA. Working in collaboration with New York firm Rockwell Group, they designed the dining room to merge seamlessly with the stepped lounges of OMNIA Dayclub below. This unique layout mimics Bali’s terraced rice paddies and was perfectly planned to

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The restaurant itself originated in London where it quickly became a darling of the dining scene for the culinary team’s meticulous attention to detail and focus on the perfection of ingredients – everything plucked, picked, harvested and served just at the right time. Guests of Sake no Hana in Bali can expect this same devotion to shun with contemporary menus inspired by nature and the changing seasons.

Spread out below the restaurant is OMNIA Dayclub with its glittering infinity pool overlooking the ocean, terrazzo cabanas with private plunge pools, a swim-up bar, and an array of VIP areas where guests can enjoy bespoke service. After dark, the exclusive Cliff Bar makes for the ultimate insider experience with entrance limited to Sake no Hana diners and the lucky few who make the guest list. If the concept of shun can be extended beyond food, then Sake no Hana and OMNIA Dayclub have it in spades. From the understated elegance of the design to the unparalleled views, exquisite cuisine and next-level service, the commitment to perfection here is palpable, and that is very shun indeed. www.omniabali.com www.sakenohana.com/bali

freshest of the fresh.

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oral pleasures BURNISHED AND BRAVEN AT SALAZON.

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THE LATEST RESTAURANT TO JOIN THE BALI FRAY LIFTS THE BAR FOR FINE DINING. words: sarah douglas. photos: lucky 8.

Smoke, mirrors and creatures large and small are all part of the dining experience at Salazon, one of Bali’s most ambitious new restaurants. You have to be brave, or crazy perhaps, to stand up every night in front of a full dining room of high-flying patrons and put it all out there. There’s nowhere to hide for this kitchen crew and chief conductor, Australian chef Paul Lewis. Dishes that are a sum of their intricate parts are as courageous as the team. Smoke, time, fire, fermentation, marinades, dehydration and animals sourced from land and sea, all mix and mingle on a decidedly masculine menu. One that can change at a moment’s notice. Dining at Salazon is an event and the extensive bar opposite the kitchen counter plays its part in this theatrical experience. A mobile bar drives drinks right to your table, often mirroring notes of the menu. Fire, coffee, wood, herbs and spices add depth and warmth to signature cocktails like the Old Fashioned and the Salazon Negroni. Classic cocktails are twisted and tweaked to add flamboyant flavours that stand up to the robust dishes. A startling moment arrives with our very first plate. Dry-aged tuna is a restrained dish by Salazon standards, in that it looks very pretty. Thankfully being so close to the chef allows me to check that it’s in fact OK to let your tuna hang out in the fridge for a couple of weeks before roughly chopping its tender flesh, mingling it with lively herbs and serving it raw on top of a buttery potato scone, a little sea urchin action giving it extra impact. As if it didn’t have that already!

“That’s how the Japanese do it,” explains Chef Paul in the almost languid way he has. He adds that it’s important to know what you’re doing. I bet! He is all over this kitchen and for the most part is the calm in the storm. Until, that is, a chef puts a step wrong. Gordon Ramsay moments happen here. It’s all part of the show. The former culinary director of W Maldives is in his element here. The glowing dining room is large, so it’s perfectly acceptable to grab a table removed from the kitchen encounters. Personally I love a bit of action with my dinner so the counter is my favourite spot. Large and small tables dot the glamorous dining room and sofas line the wall, providing options for couples or groups. We hardly have time to stare longingly through the rear window, where birds, beasts and sea creatures hang out absorbing time, smoke and flavour, before our next dish is served. This time featuring baby squid that has been flashed over the fire, retaining its firm freshness and the depths of its koji marinade. Tentacles are tumbled in the centre of the plate beside a quenelle of sour cream, a smear of smoked tomato yoghurt and sea herbs. The divide between mind and mouth becomes wider as you realize the best course of action is to simply enjoy it. Don’t try to understand it, there’s no point. It’s another delicious and engaging dish and that’s all you really need to know. The amount of preparation that goes into each dish can boggle the casual cook. This is a chef who brings a bundle of experience and personality to the kitchen. He’s on a constant search for new ingredients and ways to heighten the natural flavours.

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Without taking great leaps, brilliance can never be achieved, and flashes of it show up regularly on the plates at Salazon. It’s not without its missteps but when you go out on a limb like this, there are bound to be some scrapes. Flavour, big and bold, is the ambition that drives every dish. Take our duck. This local, organic duck has been through numerous processes, before it is flash roasted in the massive fiery wood-burning oven. It’s been dry-aged, smoked and roasted, and these are just the steps I remember. It’s full on. Almost black on the outside, the crisp skin reveals meat that falls from the bone. The smoke has permeated every fibre. The side of fermented pumpkin mash is almost as interesting as the star of the dish. The duck fat whipped with green pepper and cumin leaf is absolutely sinful, while the burnt honey sauce somehow makes its presence known regardless. My partner and I thank ourselves for choosing to share. It’s a full frontal assault on every level and plays to every sense. It’s also incredibly rich. There’s a definite MOFO element to sitting at the kitchen counter. Stracciatella cheese melted over burnt pears and caramelised walnuts with fine slices of lardo under brilliant green chervil oil, was lying in wait for another diner when I spied it. A couple of innocent slices of raisin toast sat on the edge of the plate, crying out to scoop the messy loveliness. I had to have it. Thinking that I could fit this in as an aside was sheer madness, but who among us can resist a plate of oozing cheese? Not me. Salazon takes no prisoners. Smoke, time, fire, fermentation, marinades ... dining at salazon is an event.

Wine has to feature in a dinner like this and the waiters are absolutely on top of this, educated in the finer aspects of pairing. A lovely Spanish Malbec proved too rich for me so I softened the evening with a delightful Australian Pinot Noir. My partner was having none of it, she wanted the full on flavor and to be sure, the duck required it. This isn’t my first time at Salazon and each time has been an experience. There is enough on the menu to satisfy a more conservative diner, including some excellent

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dry-aged steaks and even a burger. Naturally it is no mere burger and it reads very well on the menu. Making a choice is one of the most challenging things at Salazon, the menu is loaded with interesting dishes, and you can easily eat here multiple times and never have the same thing. If you think it won’t spoil your dinner, try the sourdough bread as well. It’s served warm and crusty with house-made whipped butter and pork rillettes, or bone marrow jus, depending on the evening. That and a salad would suffice in a pinch. Although meat is the star here, Salazon plays very nicely to the seafood crowd as well, and I was sorely tempted by a whole Canadian lobster, baked and served with pistachio and green tomato pesto, finished with beurre blanc. The heritage pork leg, a local beast, was another close call, while the tomahawk, 28-day aged pork chop is definitely on my list. Vegetables of interest are included with most dishes, while additional sides include a bloody good Hasselback potato with smoked sour cream; a butter head lettuce salad with walnuts and grapes; and a spring onion confit in beef tallow with salmon roe. Desserts are simple but continue the theme of the main courses, including a mind-blowing smoked pineapple number that isn’t the prettiest dish but punches well above its weight. Designed by the celebrated and distinctive Caroline Usher, who also designed the interiors at Mama San, the dining room is vast and impressive. It’s safe to say that a restaurant of these proportions hasn’t opened outside of a five star hotel in recent memory. The location, in the middle of Oberoi Road, places it well above its more casual neighbours, going some way to restoring ‘Eat Street’ to its former glory. Come armed with an appetite, an open mind and a reservation, Salazon aims to impress and it certainly does that. @salazonbali

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Mauritian gold.

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Ti Moris brings food from the island of Mauritius to the island of the gods. photos lucky 8.

Mark Twain once wrote, ‘Mauritius was made first and then heaven, heaven being copied after Mauritius’. It sounds exotic, and there is something heavenly about the food, the service, the smiles and the cocktails at Bali’s first Mauritian restaurant, Ti Moris.

cocktails are classic, classy and best of all, affordable. Did I mention they are also strong. We started with a chilitini and a margarita and they definitely added a smile to lunch.

It looks like a café but it doesn’t eat or drink like a café. Bold, colourful and deeply delicious flavours play together on the menu at Ti Moris in Batu Belig and for anyone who hasn’t tasted Mauritian food, you’re in for a spicy surprise.

Main courses arrived in the shape of a traditional Mauritian chicken curry, cari poulet Mauricien, made without coconut milk, and rougaille ala ti moris, a creole style tomato-based dish with aromatic herbs. It can be served as a vegetable or fish dish, ours was made with fish.

Chef Ayushi and the team at this bright and happy eatery have created a little slice of paradise in Bali, where the hospitality is as warm as the temperature. Just when you get to thinking there is nothing new under the sun, along comes a place that sends you a little sideways. Ayushi is Mauritian but honed her trade in European capitals and on cruise ships where precision and consistency are her keys to success.

Both dishes were beautiful, served with rice, salads and home-made chutneys. The peanut chutney served with the chicken curry was so good we begged for some to take home. The fish dish was light and fresh and one of their most popular, but I preferred the punch of the vindaye we had on our tasting plate. The chicken curry was excellent and unusual and it took a few guesses before we identified the fenugreek she had used.

She is gregarious and loves to chat and it is soon apparent that she listens and instinctively adjusts to the temperature of her guests. A quick look at the menu, and a few questions had her returning with a tasting plate of some of her key dishes, tailor made according to our interest.

Also on the small menu is a chop suey, with stir fried pork, a bol renverse, a sort of Mauritian fried rice, and a selection of grilled meat, seafood and vegetables.

These included two slow cooked dishes off the dinner menu, normally not offered at lunch. A lamb daube and a beef salame combine both French and Indian influences, think wine and spices. Also included in the chef’s ‘island hopping’ platter was a delicious fish curry with barramundi, blackened skin adding flavour and texture, served with a spice paste of mustard seeds and turmeric. We really loved this dish. The fourth dish on our tasting plate was a vegetarian dish that was a delightful surprise. Crunchy chickpea balls, gato pima, a staple snack in Mauritius, are broken up and mixed with tomato, onion, coriander and spices to make a kind of salad. The textures are delicious and despite not being a fan of coriander, the flavours were so beautifully balanced that it mingled rather than overtook the dish. Nicely played.

At this point, we have the measure of things. We’ve met everyone, checked the various spice pastes and chutneys, sampled more cocktails and found out everyone’s life history – these things happen at Ti Moris apparently. Therefore we were unsurprised when dessert arrives and it’s a flambee’d pineapple with a delicious rum-flavoured caramel. We are talking the tropics after all. Walking in off the street, the bright and open venue appears unassuming. An air-conditioned interior leads to an outdoor courtyard painted white with bright, pop art, adding colour and a little whimsy to the space. A large dodo in bright hues dominates the wall. The kitchen overlooks the courtyard and here the diminutive chef, Ayushi, sows her creative seeds and leads a local team to create deeply delicious spice pastes and curry blends that are at the heart of Mauritian dishes.

The brilliance of the island hopper is that it can be tailored to each guest. Ayushi says she loves to take the measure of the guest and then head to the kitchen and create plates for each taste, showing herself to be both experienced and intuitive. I wonder if she’ll have time for this when they get busy, but she clearly has commitment and enthusiasm for this project. Served with bread to dip and mop up the sauces, the island hopper is a great way to experience several dishes at once.

Influenced by the native Indian population, the Chinese, French and Creole communities, the food of Mauritius is warm and welcoming, with just the right hint of spice. This is soul food, and if you’re in the mood for something casual and fun, affordable and friendly; a place you can relax and make a little noise, and enjoy some delicious food, Ti Moris will suit you well. Flair, flavor and fun combine here to elevate Ti Moris above the mere café. Mauritius is looking good to me, have you been? Sarah Douglas.

Our lunch however was just beginning and we were only two cocktails in. The

www.timorisbali.com

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There’s a lot of chitchat about Bali’s dining scene at the moment, and a growing list of serious contenders for international awards and best-of lists. Chachara may well slide in to one of those lists and it won’t be the first time chef and founder Willy Trullas Moreno has grabbed the spotlight. He’s something of an extroverted expert. Despite the name, which means chitchat in Spanish, Chachara opened down a lane off Jalan Batubelig with little more than a neon sign over a dark doorway. The sensory explosion happens once you navigate the funky entrance. It’s a bit like arriving at a surprise party; you really do not expect what lies within. Partly because the El Willy phenomenon had escaped me, happening largely in Shanghai where the colourful signature of Barcelona-born chef Willy is celebrated. He has since made an impact on diners from Hong Kong to Manila and now it’s Bali’s turn. Chachara is a Spanish-inspired tapas restaurant, to put things simply, but with an Italian behind the stoves, crossing borders is not a problem. That’s the other thing about this group; they aren’t just outside the box, they blew it up. They love colour, art, music, fashion, graphics, out of the way places, sex and food. They have serious culinary cred, so underlying the colorful interiors and cheerful chitchat is a sensational menu. Chef Willy’s brother handles design and Chachara’s inspiration is both retro and contemporary. It’s a curated space to hang out with friends, throw a party, drop in for some explosive snacks (more on that later) and sing along to some great live music. But don’t be misled by the quirky décor. The team behind Chachara have worked in restaurants as revered as Georges Blanc in Paris, Aquavit in New York, from Greece to China, Australia to the UK. Diner’s Club lists El Willy in Shanghai among the 50 best restaurants worldwide. The menu is extensive, with almost 60 tapas dishes alone. It’s divided into bites, snacks and explosions, slow cooks, barbecues, pizzas, fried plates, fired dishes, home-crafted pastas and paella, seafood, meat, vegan and vegetarian options, and that’s before we arrive at dessert. Orange and turquoise are the theme colours, with flashes of neon. There is an open kitchen, a neon orange VW van serving drinks and coffee, a large open courtyard, a sleek bar and an air-conditioned dining room that can be sectioned off for private events. Cocktails are as sexy as the tapas menu, and a great list of wines and beers complete the picture. Chef Pancio, Alberto Panciera, makes his way to our table among a flotilla of explosive dishes and test plates for the upcoming Halloween. We sampled a chorizo choux, a tiny pastry stuffed with a quail egg, a slice of grilled chorizo languishing on top with a crown of scrambled egg white. We then got into the explosions. The ‘air baguette’, is a signature, a filled bread case that explodes as you bite into it; our retro and contemporary.

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first was filled with a melting raclette-style cheese with a thin slice of steak on top – a play on a cheese steak. An avocado explosion followed with fresh guacamole inside, topped with slices of avocado and a glisten of chili. The ‘balik’ salmon explosion has already made culinary headlines, a slice of salmon on a pastry base stuffed with honey and truffle that literally explodes as you bite into it. It’s all created to be happy, sexy and delicious, prepared with skill and made to look simple, despite the often intense preparation involved. It is easy on the eye and easy to eat. Fingers are encouraged as are chopsticks, cutlery or whatever works for you. A truffle croquette followed, a fragrant, crispy bite of scented cheese, and then Chef Pancio’s signature suckling pig arrived; a sous vide pork belly, crisped in the oven and served with carrot cream, grilled leeks, sweet potato chips and dressed in a beautiful demi-glace. Best of all, it isn’t heavy or stodgy, just very good. “When I first met Chef Willy he seemed crazy, it was so different working in his kitchen, it felt like a family, and like jumping off the high board. Whatever you asked him to do, he would find a way to make it happen, I liked that. If it seemed impossible, we would do it anyway,” recalls Chef Pancio. To pull this off takes a forward thinking chef who just says, bugger this, I’m going to have some fun. Willy isn’t the first to throw off the shackles of white tablecloths and haughty waiters. His infectious attitude has filtered through though to the entire team, and Bali’s Chachara beams with skill, enthusiasm and irreverence. Pancio’s signature dessert is already a bit of an Instagram star. Carved up on a wooden board, little pieces of sweetness are artfully placed amid fresh fruit and chocolate. There’s a little panna cotta, brownie bites, tiny ice cream scoops and jewel-like fruit tarts. All sprinkled with a dust of icing sugar and perfect for sharing. Chef Pancio likes sharing. The whole experience is fun. It’s a clever concept that will go down well with Bali diners who often prefer to hang out and drink more than they eat. Serious food lovers can go the full marathon. Thursday nights offer live music programs. The night we visited a soulful singer/guitarist was performing, having been plucked from the crowd during a previous performance. He was quirky, talented and quietly accomplished, a little like this venue. With a line-up of international friends from the fields of music, food, fashion and art, Chachara has more surprises up its sleeve. I think I’ll be back to try the Sunday brunch, the Sangria nights, the happy hours and possibly for no reason at all, just because it is a happy place. S.D. @chacharabali

Spanish-inspired Chachara boasts serious culinary chops and a funky attitude to boot. Photos: Lucky 8.

“they aren’t just out of the box; they blew it up.”

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W BALI - SEMINYAK PRESENTS

WOOBAR BY DAY Complimentary pool access Chill eclectic beats Cocktails, tapas Unmatchable views

WOOBAR OPEN DAILY 10AM - LATE For reservations +62 361 4738 106 b&f.wbali@whotels.com Â©2016 Marriott International, Inc. All Rights Reserved. W and its logos are the trademarks of Marriott International, Inc., or its affiliates.

starfishbloorestaurant.com

oral pleasures dim sum days.

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Heritage IndoChine Dim Sum is a hot find for Chinese classics, succulent dim sum and epic Vietnamese morsels, writes ondy sweeting. photo: lucky 8.

Tucked away in a strip of shops on Jalan Kerobokan heading out of Seminyak near the legendary landmark of Warisan, this 12-hour purveyor of dim sum adds some eclectic design sparkle to the area with full wall murals, a painted gold ceiling, a mash up of chairs and hip bordello-style lighting at night. It also has parking, which is a huge bonus for this busy street. The menu delivers a steady stream of freshly produced dim sum in all their historic forms; steamed, fried, roasted, stewed and poached. The signature Heritage basket is a bamboo bushel packed with fluffy edibles – succulent prawn ha gow, prawn and opaque chive crystal dumplings plus two types of Indonesia’s favourite Chinese snack siew mai – a chicken and a prawn. They are made fresh to order from rice wrappers hand crafted in the restaurants buzzing kitchen, so don’t expect the food to land on the table within moments of ordering. The house-made chili oil is crunchy and subtly spiced with heat. It is a tasty balance to the lush dim sum. Fans of soupy xiao long bao – those steamed pods filled with soup and mince pork which explode a sensational broth when bitten – will welcome these babies as an addition to the signature starter. Heritage’s Chinese menu is more comprehensive than the Vietnamese and offers ever-popular meat plates bearing roasted duck, crispy pork belly, roast chicken and sweet char siu pork. Local duck is used and is tender and delicious. Heritage chefs clearly paid close attention to the tutorials of the Hong Kong Dim Sum master who was retained by the restaurant to train the local cooks. Expect other delights like salmon clay pot, rice porridge congee, spring rolls stuffed with duck or vegetables, kailan with garlic and bok choy with oyster sauce. Yang chow rice is created with various forms of meats with

vegetables and made to order. The Vietnamese menu launches immediately into four types of pho in broth slowed cooked over 10 hours adding depth and character to the soup. On offer is the Vietnamese breakfast, lunch and dinner favourite of beef pho that is topped with fine slivers of beef, crisp fresh bean sprouts, mint, basil, fresh lime and sliced chili, the bowl is heavy with rice noodles. It also comes with chicken, or plain vegetables as well as an elaborate beef version with imported beef shank and beef balls. Expect to see Saigon fried rice with lap xuong pork sausage, chicken curry and rice, beef stew with fragrant rice and banh chung – rice paper wrapped with bamboo leaves and packed with pork salted egg yolk and sausage. Banh cuon – delicious fresh spring rolls that are bursting with flavour of fresh vegetables, vermicelli noodles and a couple of succulent poached prawns is always popular, so order early. The beloved vermicelli noodles also make an appearance with grilled pork served with herbs, bean sprouts and cucumber as bun cha with pickles and nouc mam dressing. A Heritage feast is well finished with a feather light steamed bun containing heavenly warm custard, which, unlike many Asian desserts, is not overly sweet for a western palate. Heritage, which has a bar and is set over three levels with a rooftop that overlooks the area, hits a sweet spot for a dim sum destination that serves from 10am until 10pm and later on the weekends. www.facebook.com/heritageindochinedimsum 117

oral pleasures

take the humble warung and mix it with a world class chef and you’ve got a restauraunt that’s going places. photo: lucky 8.

Ubud may have a reputation as a vegan-friendly haven, but a new warung in town is shaking things up with carnivorous offerings like succulent steaks, super stacked burgers and crispy coconut charcoal grilled chicken that would make even the most steadfast plant-based eater look twice. MyWarung has finally made its way up the hill from the south shores of Bali, and meat eaters in Ubud couldn’t be happier. Like many great ideas, the MyWarung concept grew out of a desire to take something familiar and elevate it whilst still retaining its original ethos. Indonesian-born Juan Pierre Anthony spent much of his life living abroad, but every time he returned home to Bali, he would always frequent his favourite local warung. He began to think about how he could combine the humble warung concept of freshly cooked food at affordable prices in a laidback space with world-class culinary standards and a varied menu to suit all tastes. A chance meeting during a surfing session led Juan to team up with French-Canadian chef Hugo Coudurier. With years of experience working in illustrious fine dining restaurants including the three-Michelin-starred Guy Savoy Paris, where he was Executive Chef, Coudurier was looking for something a little more casual and MyWarung fit the bill perfectly. The first MyWarung restaurants opened in Canggu, Echo Beach and Batu Belig in 2017 and have been receiving rave reviews ever since. MyWarung Ubud is situated in the middle of all the action on Jalan Raya Ubud just across from Puri Lukisan, and it is already garnering a major buzz. We stopped in on a Friday night and every table in the house was either full or sporting a ‘Sorry Gorgeous, I’m Taken’ reserved card. For the smart diners who call ahead, you have the option of dining downstairs and watching the bartenders in action, or upstairs amid hanging plants and quirky larger-than-life artworks. Cocktails are always the first order of business, and MyWarung has all the classics plus a few special signature creations. We like to think we’re pretty special, so we opted for the Rujak Martini with a spicy chilli rim and sassy vodka, triple sec and lemony fruit juice mix. The MyWarung

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Spritz with Cynar, sparkling wine, soda and citrus was refreshing and light, but the winner was definitely the Espresso Martini with vodka, Kahlua and espresso brewed with freshly ground beans from The Moose Espresso. Fans of MyWarung in the south will be happy to know that the Ubud menu features all-time favourites like the L’Entrecote Australian rib eye steak, Coconut Sugar & Mustard Marinated Pork Chop and the Rosemary Grilled Lamb Chops with your choice of sauces and sides like crispy French fries and a walnut salad. Unique to the Ubud location are new items like the Crispy Pork Belly with spicy mayo and Prawns Spaghetti with chilli, garlic and tomato. Our meat-centric feast included the Wagyu Beef Tri Tip perfectly charred on the outside and medium rare on the inside, served with a side of rosemary potatoes, creamy béarnaise sauce and a tangy Thai nam jim jaew’sweet chilli sauce. We also had to try their famous K Burger, which came on a buttery bun piled high with a substantial grilled beef patty, cheddar, pickles, tomato and onion and golden fries on the side with dijonnaise and homemade tomato ketchup for dipping. While steaks and burgers may be the main draw here, vegetarians won’t feel left out, as there are plenty of tempting veggie dishes on the menu. A meat-free meal could include the Burrata with grilled zucchini, cherry tomato and rocket to start, followed by the Roasted Pumpkin Salad with shaved fennel, Korean pear, parmesan and pumpkin seeds or the Penne Pesto with basil, cherry tomatoes and rocket. Hip new spots that do things a bit differently are always a welcome addition to the Ubud dining scene, and MyWarung Ubud ticks off all the right boxes with an artsy, eclectic space, a great mix of hearty and healthy dishes that appeal to all tastes and won’t break the bank, and a good-vibes-only kind of atmosphere. Not surprisingly, this contemporary warung is already becoming a fast favourite with the foodie set. S.M. www.mywarung.com

all yours at mywarung,

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WE experienced Above Eleven, where Peruvian food scales new heights. photo: lucky 8.

peru through and through.

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Getting your head around Peruvian food takes a little while. It’s wonderful, full of flavour and familiar in a fresh way. There’s culture and history to macerate, geography and politics to imbibe, and it’s more than a mouthful. In the annals of culinary history, Peruvian food is divided into two eras: Before Gaston and After Gaston. They refer to the celebrated chef Gaston Acurio who led Peru on a quest to define the national cuisine that encompasses influences from Asia, Europe and the native population. BG (Before Gaston), according to The Washington Post’s Nick Miroff, was a time of darkness, confusion and ketchup. Following the opening of Gaston’s first restaurant in 1994, Lima was hailed as the new culinary capital of South America. Above Eleven introduces Bali diners to Peruvian food in a beautiful spacious rooftop restaurant that offers sweeping views across Jimbaran Bay, a large bar, a confusing maze-like entrance and a chef with an impressive culinary pedigree. Chef Renzo Piero left Peru, like many local chefs, in search of an education he was unlikely to find at home. From an Italian/German family who had migrated to Peru, he had been in love with food since he was a small child and already exposed to lots of different influences at home, where both his grandmother and his father were wonderful cooks. “I have been passionate about food since I was a child. My parents were of Italian/ German origin and food was always a focus of our family life. My grandmother and my father were both great cooks and I knew from an early age this is what I wanted to do,” chef Renzo explains. After an extended argument with his mother, who felt cooking was a dead-end profession, she agreed to fund his culinary college before he headed off to see the world and hone his craft. Firstly he headed to Germany where he worked a variety of career openings before landing a job at the Peruvian Embassy. From there he headed to London where his arrival coincided with a wave of enthusiasm for Peruvian food. “My arrival in London coincided with a time when Peruvian food was just starting to appear on the menus. London was amazing at that time and I worked with some exciting restaurateurs there, it was inspirational. After a few years in London, I was inspired to return to Lima and open my own restaurant,“ he explains. His adventures in Asia began when the Soho Group, who opened their first Above Eleven on a Bangkok rooftop, advertised for their Bali restaurant and the gregarious chef sniffed an adventure. He sold up in Peru and moved to Bali, sight unseen. “I fell in love with Bali and I think I’ll stay forever. I have connected with some great suppliers and adapted my recipes when needed and I’m learning more about local food and sometimes incorporating local flavours as well. It’s exciting to be doing something in a new part of the world and inspiring local chefs.”

The most impressive part of Above Eleven, once you get past the view, is the huge seafood counter. Sushi sits beside ceviche on the Peruvian menu, incorporating native flavours in the popular Nikkei cuisine, inspired by the large Japanese population in Peru. Tigers milk, or leche de tigre, isn’t as frightening as it sounds, and it binds the cultures in an interesting way. The sharp and spicy liqueur has nothing to do with tiger’s – disappointing I know – rather it’s the liquid that is expelled in the ceviche process. A heady mix of lime, ginger, chili, coriander and the liquid derived from the fish by the addition of salt, it becomes a dressing for varieties of sushi and sashimi, giving them a distinctive flavor. Peruvians are bound by their love of seafood. There is however another geographic influence at play – the mountains. Hundreds of different potato varieties are found in Peru, and a section of the menu is devoted to la causa, a popular potato dish adapted with various ingredients, seafood, meat or vegetables. We tried the tuna, a topping of fresh tartare mixing with the creamy potato, creating an unusual dish that mixes earth and sea beautifully. This is real comfort food after the fresh and lively flavours of sushi and sashimi, or tiraditos in Peruvian. The Chinese have played their part in Peru’s culinary history and are represented by wok-fried dishes called saltado, which appear on the menu. The Italians have also left a culinary legacy and Above Eleven has some classy pasta on their menu, including a standout bucattini con pato, featuring a Peruvian duck ragout. Every Peruvian I have met talks longingly of the grilled chicken found on almost every street corner, cooked over coals and dressed with a spicy green sauce known as huacatay. Anticuchos refers to the grilled skewers inspired by this local favourite. On Above Eleven’s menu they offer two anticuchos that feature heart, a popular delicacy in Peru, along with small animals that are best left unmentioned. For purists beef heart is skewered and grilled with three Peruvian sauces or mingled with chicken teriyaki, octopus, crushed potatoes and Peruvian sauces. This pretty much represents modern Peruvian cuisine on a plate. It is a mouthful, but skillfully prepared, the flavours, textures and very different styles of cooking, or marinating in many cases, results in dishes that are fresh and complex, interesting and deeply flavoured. It’s modern but it also plays with ancient culinary influences. It’s all quite brilliant really and one can see why Peru’s capital Lima is showing up on many of the world’s top restaurant lists. As a dinner venue, Above Eleven is quite beautiful. It’s equally good for sunset cocktails and party nights, including a private area for events. From sushi to ceviche, from wok-fried dishes to pastas, potatoes done in lots of ways and grills with chili-infused sauces, Peruvian food really is a melting pot. Above Eleven raises the bar for Jimbaran offering a sophisticated, elevated insight into this complex cuisine. I have also become mildly addicted to their national drink Pisco, but that is a tale for another day. S.D. www.aboveeleven.com

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sarah douglas feels the ocean vibe at canggu’s newest addition to the ‘la’ collection. photos: lucky 8.

fresh, flavour-packed food by the sea

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If Hollywood is La La Land, then perhaps Bali is La Land? La Favela, La Plancha, La Sicilia, La Laguna . . . and now La Brisa has opened, there’s a lot of La. La Brisa is the latest in the signature collection of venues and there’s a tenuous Hollywood connection here, in the form of Ernest Hemmingway. I spotted his likeness twice, staring out from weathered boards, a kind of patron saint of La Brisa . . . And it makes some sense that he would be watching over this venue, at least as much sense as anything in this interesting jumble of buildings that are tied together by their homage to the sea. Fact is he’d love this place that echoes the ocean and is created from the soul of old boats. Over 400 have been dismantled and recycled for the building. La Brisa is all about the ocean, from the location, to the design details, right down to the food. Like all the other ‘La’ venues, it’s fascinating and busy and recycled and it somehow all fits together, as if there were a plan. Even though it appears there never really was. What distinguishes all the venues in the collection is the way they source and weave recycled materials into creating their themed venues. They start with a kind of a blueprint and the finished product depends on what they can source and when. La Brisa is a tangle of buildings facing the surfswept Echo Beach. With a pool at the centre, it is their first real “beach club”. Although La Plancha sits right on Seminyak beach and La Laguna overlooks a sweeping beach as well, this is the first to have a pool and absolute beachfront. The decorations are reclaimed; some from the sea, some from fishermen, some from scrap collectors. Everywhere you look there is something of interest. There are levels and steps, lights and different areas to hang out in, bridges to navigate and places to perch or lounge or parade. Inspired by the breeze, there are an abundance of places to enjoy it. The crowds have discovered it already and everywhere you look people are posing for selfies and setting up their hero instagram shots. It’s a destination that will be bookmarked again and again by visitors to Bali. It’s already Insta-famous and it’s still early days. It would be easy to write these guys off as a fluke, a passing fancy, if they didn’t create winning venues again and again. Few have been more prolific, nor

as successful. And every single one plays perfectly to a theme. There is a vision, a definitive style and a fabulous philosophy running through the venues, right down to state of the art clean-water systems and an admirable commitment to recycling and sustainable practices. They put their money where their mouths are in every one of the venues. And although most punters don’t see it, there is another very serious side to the group, and part of it is their commitment to fabulous food. A late afternoon meal at La Brisa had me almost licking the plate. The menu is still small and will grow as a more formal restaurant space is finished, but fresh, flavour-packed seafood in all its different forms flows perfectly here. One thing I can tell with full confidence, if the homemade ciabatta rolls ever come off the menu, there will be a riot. This bread is so good you would order the prawns just to dip the hot, crusty and chewy rolls into it: served in a broth created with wine and tomatoes and garlic, the little school prawns soak up all the goodness. Then there are little tapas-style plates of marinated feta, tomatoes and olives, also delicious. Black cod croquettes are a creamy, crunchy, flavourful dish that came highly recommended by the Spanish General Manager. Squid, in the form of calamari, is one of their most popular dishes while the sliced, home-cured salmon is also deliriously good. So far, they are keeping things simple, but delicious. Dive into the refreshing white Sangria, bubbling with prosecco, a perfect mood enhancer. The menu also offers clams and shellfish, cooked, cured or raw and some lively and delicious salads. The dishes served tapas-style are a treat on a sunny afternoon, lounging about on the top deck, enjoying the breeze and the surf. La Brisa is still the new kid in the group and there’s a lot of space to grow. A series of three new pools and a deck are being built on the adjoining land, buildings and playgrounds are still being constructed. Underlying it all is a commitment to showing people a really good time. Warm, vibrant hospitality and a thorough professionalism keep the madness and the good times flowing like Sangria. La Brisa is a great addition to the Canggu line-up. www.labrisabali.com

big six

There’s nothing like a reason to get happy, or none at all. Bali’s venues are tempting us with better and better cocktails, at very happy prices.

Kiln When cocktails are part of your DNA, you want to be able to get them out fast. Kiln has introduced Bali’s first cocktail tap and put four majorly good cocktails on their Tappy Hour menu and they are all deliciously different. From 4-7pm every day, at just 50k++ they are not to be underestimated. My personal favourite is the Piña Colada. Rum infused with pineapple and coconut water, is released from the tap looking slightly cloudy before it settles as a clear drink, then topped with frothy coconut meringue, which is burnished before being delivered. It’s a fabulous cocktail. The ‘gin and chronic’ could only have been invented by an Englishman (take a bow Albie); gin is topped with a homemade tonic infused with black lime, clove and nutmeg. The ‘mule’ is peppered with fresh young ginger juice and the fourth, a white Sangria, is made for those who like their cocktails a little floral. Combined with their delicious wraps on Wednesday, also just 50k++, there’s lots to like here, good music, good food, good times. Tel: +62 361 4733054 www.kilnbali.com Yak Map N.6 40 Thieves If you can’t find 40 Thieves then you are definitely one of “them”. This is one of the grooviest cocktail bars in town run by a crazy cat, Shah Dillon, who loves his cocktails. He’s very keen on whisky as well. Being just doors away from one of our other favourite speakeasy-style bars, Baker Street Social, makes this a busy area for those who believe their drinking habits are nobody’s business. Except that you will probably feature on their social media because they are very social at 40 Thieves. Tuesday to Thursday the cocktails are 150k for 2, and on Friday and Saturday night from 10-12midnight, 2-for-1 cocktails are offered. It’s perfect if like me you aren’t staying up late. Only problem is that as 40 Thieves fills up and the music starts to build, this is a damn hard place to leave. Tel: +6287862267657 Yak Map U.3 Fat Gajah and Arang Sate Bar Is this the longest happy hour in Bali? When you start ordering your second jug of icy, tart margaritas you know you’re probably in trouble but you are beyond caring. Chef Agung Nugroho has always had a flair for cocktails and in both his venues, Arang Sate Bar in Ubud and Fat Gajah in Seminyak, he loves nothing better than a lock in. Every day from 12-6pm is happy hour and the cocktails are flowing, at just 58k++ for signature cocktails that never hold back. Order up by the jug to save even more. Thankfully at both venues, great food is never far away. Luckily it’s coming into rainy season and what is better than a very long lunch that involves many cocktails. Go on, you know you want to. Tel: +6285101688212 www.fatgajah.com Yak Map T.9

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Lacalaca and Lacalita There’s some crazy shit doing down at both of these crazy, colourful Mexican venues and that’s the way they like it. If Margaritas and Mojitos are your cocktail of choice then you might want to hit one of the luscious Laca venues (there’s a new one about to open in Ubud folks, Lacasita is on the way). Caipioskas and Sangria also feature on the list, the perfect foil for a large plate of quesadillas or some of their tantalising tacos. Every Sunday they celebrate the classic Bloody Mary with 2-for-1 all day until sunset. Make it fiery if Saturday night was a bit of a killer, the spicier the better. Tel: +6282247312218, +6282247312217 www.lacalongtime.com Yak Map T.8 Winehouse When we say that a glass of wine is often a very big indulgence, wine lovers will all be nodding as they read. The Winehouse introduced their famous happy hours a couple of years ago and then it all went south and we were left wondering where the hell our top shelf Pinot Noir was coming from, where to find that steely little Reisling you fell in love with last year, or where we simply get a properly handled quality wine by the glass without having to sell an organ? Join the enthusiastic crowd every Friday at the Winehouse where you will find a range of hand-picked wines by the glass offered at fabulous prices from 5-7pm every Friday. At 2-for-1, this Happy hour is the salve for your wine loving soul. Tel: +62 361 737217 www.winehousebali.com Yak Map V.4 Settimo Cielo You might want to sit down for this sophisticated happy hour where the canapés flow as freely as the delicious cocktails. This heavenly little neighborhood Italian restaurant, Settimo Cielo, has introduced Apericena to give grown ups a chance to mix and mingle and indulge in some classic cocktails for just Rp77k. It’s a lovely Italian-themed affair offering a delightful mix of rustic pleasures and quiet sophistication. If you’re easing into Friday, planning a lovely dinner somewhere or simply want to indulge in some cocktails and conversation, this is a very relaxed, easy way to spend Friday night. The canapés come regularly enough to threaten to spoil your dinner but it’s easy enough to slip into one of their comfortable booths and order a main course without having to go anywhere. Tel: +62 361 4741117 www.settimocielobali.com Yak Map R.5

VENTING in a villa

the edge out of this world luxe. lordy!

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Katie Truman heads south and discovers super luxe The Edge has undergone a fabulous new property expansion – adding some swanky facilities now open to outside guestS For those not in the loop, aptly-named The Edge is a lavishly luxurious boutique villa estate, super-secluded 162-metres-high on cliff tops along Uluwatu’s wild coastline in the Bukit peninsula. Debuted 2009 by the Mesa Hotels and Resorts stable as one of Indonesia’s leading five-star villa properties – in fact, one of Bali’s new breed of ‘Super Villas’ – accolades include “Conde Nast Johansen’s Reader’s Choice Award 2017” and a select few – including celebs, VIPs and high-flyers from across the Asian region – savouring a sublime taste of the high life, on what appears like the edge of the world. Expect round-the-clock services of professional Magnum-trained butlers, one assigned to each villa for the entire stay (and the same butler on return visits), doubling as a personal assistant-cum-concierge and on hand for anything from unpacking suitcases to pouring the Champagne. And expect high-calibre food and beverage: the recently expanded stellar wine collection now amounts to 2,000 Old and New World labels, validated with Wine Spectator Award of Excellence 2017 and customized gourmet dining based on individual preferences – from group seafood barbecues to proposalworthy dinners à deux – served by the butler anywhere on the estate. Blissful days start with extravagant breakfasts (inclusive of rates), that could feed a small army and if you request a young coconut drink, a staff member will shin-up a nearby coconut tree and cut one down. The team of estate chefs and kitchen operations are overseen by Balinese Executive Chef Nyoman Suasa, armed with a prolific pedigree as Sous Chef at The Beverley Wilshire Hotel, Los Angeles and instrumental in the launch of Wolfgang Pucks’ acclaimed restaurant, CUT, while F&B Manager, Nyoman Suwinda Yasa, AKA Best Sommelier Bali, worked prior stints at Ku De Ta, Luna2 and Metis. The original Edge comprises four palatial-sized villas, sprawled across 1.5 hectares of estate, each built modern Indonesian style, like a home yet sumptuous, tastefully decorated with island objets and hand-picked art works, and secluded in high walled gardens for the ultimate private villa experience. Guests are totally indulged with such treats as natural stone swimming pools and outdoor bale, expansive indoor-outdoor living and dining areas, state-of-the-art, fully integrated audio-visual systems (including MiniMac and Apple TV) and all, on or near the cliff edge, providing gob smacking Indian Ocean views, even from master suites. Nearest to the cliff-edge, one-bedroom The Villa, boasts an absolute cliff front deck totally private for intimate weddings, plus there’s a couple of gorgeous two-bedroom villas. However, The View is hands-down the showstopper: a five-bedroom villa on two levels and a whopping 3,500-square-metres; originally designed as the owners’ private holiday residence, and so-named, as elevated high on a private cliff-top section at the heart of the estate it provides off- the-charts panoramas – especially from the monstersized cliff-edge deck and two pools book-ended with bales. Most important however, The View is totally diva-worthy, with its cavernous wine cellar and cigar room, home movie theatre, children’s playroom, nanny’s (or if you must, bodyguard’s) quarters, expansive service kitchen-bar and upper and lower floor living rooms. In-house facilities exclusive to villa guests extend to a mini-gym, Cliff Bar with adjoining pool and sundeck and award-winning spa, designed ultra-contemporary as one open-plan, sensuous shaped chamber, with mini steam pods and surreal “liquid floor” – permanent ankle-deep water, bringing the ocean within. This year, The Edge reaches even dizzier heights in hospitality with its jaw-dropping property expansion on an elevated cliff-top plain to the west of the original property, with a new wing of four villas and facilities scheduled to open, latest early 2018 – joining a

burgeoning band of elite new offerings for the Uluwatu neighbourhood. Mirroring the original section’s design and concept, with a combined eight villas spread over three hectares, guests are lavished with extra villa options and space, besides some seriously “out-there” facilities, adding even more benefits while holed-up here. Available by the end of 2017, these four new wow factor villas bear individual lay out and highlights, but still provide The Edge’s trademark format, ocean views and luxurious details, highlighting extravagant spaciousness, opulent master suites and bathrooms, butler kitchens, ample-sized stone pools and all the latest technologies. The One Villa stands out, literally, for its expansive timbered deck positioned at the extreme edge of the estate’s clifftops, perfect for mega-private, intimate wedding ceremonies and celebratory parties; additionally, this one-bedroom bolt-hole has direct access to The Palms, The Edge’s new and exclusive, open-air events deck for receptions and ceremonies accommodating maximum 300 guests – The Palms, located within The Breeze, another one-bedroom Villa, albeit placed further back. As the name suggests, duplex, two-bedroom villa, The Ocean, catches some stunning ocean views, while The Ridge, set further back on a natural ridge, is the largest and grandest of the four, sized at 500-square-metres with two-floors and three bedrooms. With its private salon, bar and recreation room, extravagantly sized rooftop bale and vast gardens containing extensive pool, lawns and fish pond, The Ridge goes a level higher, literally, for an exceptional private hideaway for families or special occasions. For those unable to pursue the high life, you can, however, still go “over the edge,” courtesy of two in-house destination venues open for discreet public consumption. Not a beach club per se, game-changing oneeighty° is a celebration of sophisticated beach culture, a cliff-edge club that delivers the beach to what is now, arguably, Uluwatu’s loftiest entertainment venue. Oneeighty’s° bar-restaurant itself is a super contemporary designed, circular stone building with all-glass frontage providing seated dining options and The DJ Lounge above, a semi-open casual area with DJ booth for elevated 180° panoramas and welcome sea breezes. By day, oneeighty° guests can indulge in chilled sounds and all-day classic beachsideinspired global fare, either at the Sand Lounge, a sandy bottomed playpen dotted with palm trees and sunbeds, or at adults-only VIP Lounge, nestled on a lower, absolute cliff-front open-air section for jaw-dropping, unobstructed ocean views from shaded banquettes. Or perhaps play alongside in the series of aquamarine pools cascading down into a glass-bottom Sky Pool, dramatically protruding 6.5-metres over the cliff edge (rest assured, built to Australian safety standards) looking down onto the pounding surf below – surely, Bali’s most Instagram-worthy spot and relegating standard infinity pools to ‘so last year’ status. Aglow with up-lit palm trees, fire pits and moonlight, by nightfall, oneeighty° is the place for curated cocktails and star-gazing, but for dinner, head to Atas, standing just behind: a high-end, dinner-only restaurant, mirroring the same circular style design as its neighbour. Above swish kitchens, Atas welcomes as an intimate, interactive dining space showcasing modern Indonesian cuisine that combines archipelago culinary heritage and traditional Balinese recipes with contemporary flair. If this new expansion doesn’t catapult The Edge at the forefront of Bali’s new “Super Villa’s” then nothing will! www.mesahotelsandresorts.com/theedge

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venting in a villa

BASK on Gili Meno has been turning heads for its modernist beach aesthetic. Stephanie Mee spoke to CEO Greg Meyer about the vision and how he plans to bring it to life.

First things first – why did you choose Gili Meno for the location of BASK, as opposed to Bali or neighbouring Gili Trawangan or Gili Air? We were looking for an emerging location with substantial and growing tourist numbers where we could create a new standard of resort offering, and the Gili Islands represented this. I selected a sunset site on underdeveloped Gili Meno because, aside from the beauty of the site, having 300 metres of beachfront and lakefront its close proximity to vibrant Gili Trawangan offered great appeal. Why is now a good time to invest in the Gili Islands? The popularity of Gili Meno has surged over the past two years thanks to increased recognition of its unique natural beauty and relaxed atmosphere. Independent five-year projections show significant growth and on-going strength for the Gili Islands. BASK’s luxury resort villas represent an exceptionally good investment opportunity, seeing as how the land value in the Gili Islands is still very sensible and much lower than that in the prime areas of Bali, where comparable luxury property to BASK Gili Meno sell between US$4,000 to US$6,000 USD per square metre. By comparison, BASK villas start at US$2,850. BASK Gili Meno just hosted its ground breaking ceremony in March, but you’ve already earned 11 awards including Best New Hotel Construction & Design Indonesia from the Asia Pacific Property Awards and Best Landscape Architectural Design from the Indonesia Property Awards. What is it that makes the design so special? Our goal was to create a very modern yet relaxed island feel. I believe that our architect Gary Fell has met the brief perfectly with his tropical interpretation of mid-century modernist design. All villas are individual and create a feeling of space, while the main beach club offers a variety of spaces to relax in and enjoy the beautiful outlook and sunset. When it’s finished BASK Gili Meno will feature 87 fully furnished luxury villas available as part of an innovative rental pooling system. Can you tell us a bit about this system and what benefits villa owners can expect? BASK offers a fully managed investment whereby the investor is afforded the luxury of a hassle-free investment. A four per cent sinking fund goes to ensure that long-term maintenance will be to the highest standard, and investors receive a guaranteed percentage of the incoming revenue as opposed to a percentage of net profit that is outside of their control. So certainty and

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integrity are key features. Sustainability is one of your top priorities at BASK Gili Meno. What ecofriendly initiatives do you have planned for the resort? Yes, sustainability is one of BASK’s key values. At Gili Meno we are implementing a coral rejuvenation program and mangrove propagation and conservation project. These are just two of the initiatives currently being implemented. We will also be a plastic-bottle-free resort and will be composting vegetable waste to be recycled and used in the BASK vegetable and herb garden. Several other sustainable and nature conservation projects are on the drawing board. What kind of market do you expect for BASK Gili Meno? BASK Gili Meno will set a new standard in luxury accommodation and food and beverage service. The discerning traveller will enjoy the opportunity of this new standard of offering. The youthful and modern environment is certain to be enjoyed by many fans of the Gili Islands as well. The villas at BASK Gili Meno have already attracted high-profile interest including celebrity actor and musician David Hasselhoff. Besides piquing the Hoff’s interest, what has the response been like so far in terms of sales and investment? BASK has attracted quite a lot of publicity due to its design and awards; consequently we have attracted many investors from across the world that are seeking the balance of a quality investment return and a lifestyle destination they can enjoy every year. We expect with the current interest and sales that all villas will be sold by early 2018. Last but not least, in your personal opinion, what is it that sets BASK Gili Meno apart from other luxury villa resorts in the region? The BASK values and vision include “quality overarches everything we do”. We are focused on design and quality with first class food and beverage being key. We like to do new things and have an appreciation for art and music. NEST by Jason DeCaires Taylor is the start of BASK’s support of artists and authenticity. In addition, nature and sustainability will be integrated into some of our activities making for a complete modern holiday experience. www.baskgilimeno.com

the hoffâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a fan.

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venting

a cut above.

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Sarah Douglas levitates above the waves at Ulu Cliffhouse as it sets out to redefine the beach club experience in Bali.

Once upon a time a young Englishman sat on a rock and stared out over an endless sea, dreaming of a time when he could invite his friends to share this magical place. He imagined a place where musical friends created fabulous soundtracks and surfer friends would emerge from perfect barrels to tell tall tales over bitingly cold beers. A place where the gin and tonics flow as freely as chilled French rosé and floral cocktails, where the barbecued prawns sing of the clear green sea below and every sunset is a celebration. It is easy to wax lyrical about Ulu Cliffhouse because, aside from being a stunning venue, it’s a place with a beautiful story and generous hosts. Uluwatu is a place of dreams. When the early surfers discovered it, they called it heaven. Movies like Morning of the Earth spread the legend far and wide, books were written about this rugged coast and the perfect waves, and the early days of Bali tourism. The Englishman, Josh Forrow, is older, wiser and has travelled to some of the world’s best beach clubs and is thrilled with the way his favourite rock has been transformed. He wanders easily among old friends and new, barefoot and smiling. It is part of the warmth and appeal of the day/night club that is in equal parts a club, restaurant, beach club, a music venue and a collaboration. The coast of Uluwatu has changed dramatically from the early days when the only way to access the waves was by motorbike and a long, hot walk. Some of the world’s best surfers, including more than a few Balinese legends, have beaten this path. Resorts, villas, warungs, restaurants and clubs have opened since then. Roads wind through the rugged coast and local villages have grown rich from the visitors. Surfers still make up a large part of the community, alongside hoards of tourists who come for the sunsets and the cliff top views. They stay and play and eat and drink. They visit the legendary temple where the kecak dancers entertain sell-out crowds and large groups fill the famous beaches in search of Julia Roberts and a defining Bali moment. Walking through the entrance of Ulu Cliffhouse takes your breath away. Thankfully it isn’t because of the thousand steps, at Ulu Cliffhouse you walk straight in from the car park and the magic begins; the views are uninterrupted and it almost feels as though you are floating high above the sea. A brilliant blue pool at the centre of the venue offers a chance to cool off, while the breeze brings welcome relief on a hot day. There are two bars, a host of seating options from wide lounges overlooking the view to oversized armchairs, bar stools and sunbeds scattered throughout. The WiFi is good enough to post to Instagram but not fast enough to encourage

business conversations. It’s the perfect opportunity to switch off and enjoy the available distractions, of which there are many. Music is central to the experience but rather than being overwhelming, it is a soundtrack that is designed to entertain. Some hot talent has played here already and with the opening of their professional studio, we can expect a lot more in the future. The well-travelled team who have taken this raw idea and polished it up is Out & Out Hospitality, who are behind Singapore’s much-loved venues Operation Dagger and Oxwell & Co. They opened Kiln in Seminyak to get the feel of operating in Bali while Ulu Cliffhouse was being built. Where Kiln is fiery and fun, an urban concept where locals, expats and tourists can gather over food, drinks and music, the Cliffhouse plays to its natural elements; the cliffs, the sea, wide open spaces and cool tones in cream and blue. It’s sophisticated without being arrogant, it’s polished without being precious and everyone is welcome. The biggest downside here is leaving, it is very difficult to tear yourself away and a date for lunch can easily turn into a late night session. It isn’t only the views and the music that are creating a buzz about Ulu Cliffhouse. One of the world’s hottest chefs came on board to create menus with a difference. Diego Munoz is on the pointy end of Peruvian cuisine and currently ranked among the world’s best chefs. His menus have been interpreted by a young Brit who finds himself in an elevated position beyond his expectations but is handling it with great style. No doubt things will change on the menu front but for a flying start they are serving delicious food that is filled with freshness. From large, fresh salads to delicious grilled seafood and beach club classics like burgers, tempura and club sandwiches that are tweaked to add interest but still play well to a crowd. The Rock Bar, accessed by a flight of wooden stairs, offers a chance to get close to the sparkling sea. Built on a wooden pontoon, a bar, lounges and deep sofas line the edge. It’s a beautiful location overlooking the long stretch of sand that lines Thomas beach and offers a VIP view of surfers riding the perfect waves. Ulu Cliffhouse is ultimately a lifestyle venue. Rock up for the day to swim, eat, drink, hang out, enjoy the views and settle in with some great soundtracks. This is the Uluwatu lifestyle many of us have imagined, no sand, no stairs, loads of cool spots to hang out and a great list of wine, cocktails and local and imported beers to wash away our cares and add a little glamour to our beach days. www.ulucliffhouse.com

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brands

the yak spoke to Nagisa CEO Lina Shimizu about villas, beaches and respect.

So tell us Lina, how did Nagisa come about? The story began in 2006 when my husband Yosuke Shimizu (who is now the acting founder) and I were relaxing at Sanur Beach. We were talking about our life plans and came up with the idea to create a villa company. We both love Bali beaches, so we decided to call the company ‘Nagisa’, which means ‘seashore’ in Japanese. This concept carried through to our logo, which incorporates the colours of sand, waves and blue sky. What is the main philosophy behind Nagisa? The main philosophy of our company is to always treat people with respect, to appreciate each other and to build trust. We believe that little things matter and we aim to implement our values of sincerity, passion and trust not only to our customers and guests, but also to everyone we meet. How has the villa market in Bali changed since Nagisa was established in 2006? In 2006 there were many foreign villa owners including many Japanese, but now that has changed to mostly Indonesian or Chinese owners. The guest demographics have also changed, not to mention the global political and economic situations. This has really affected our planning and working culture, as we’ve had to make adjustments to meet different expectations and character types. However, our team is strong enough to handle any change that comes our way. We don’t see these changes as obstacles, but rather as challenges, and we believe that our success is directly related to our internal company efforts. What does it take for a villa to become part of the Nagisa portfolio? We always do an inspection at each villa to make sure they meet the criteria of what our guests expect from a luxury villa. Some things we look at include facilities,

building trust a Nagisa Bali Villa Management.

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layout, design and location. I also meet with the owners to assess their character, expectations, and their belief in Nagisa to see whether we can form a long-term working relationship. For me nothing is more important than creating a good relationship, so if see that our characters are vastly different or that the villa owner is finding it hard to trust us, then I might make the decision that it’s better not to move forward. Nagisa has won numerous awards over the years. In your opinion, what is it that makes Nagisa stand out from other villa management companies? I think Nagisa Bali stands out because our company puts a great deal of value on teamwork. We have a strong foundation and are dedicated to our work, yet we still strive to improve and remind ourselves every day to be sincere, passionate and trustworthy. Our strong teamwork comes naturally from this openness, honesty and support for each other. What can we expect to see from Nagisa in the future? Do you have any plans for expansion? We do have a company targets and plans for the future, but most importantly it’s about doing our best every day and going with the flow. We are proud to have grown and expanded this far and to have the staff working with us that we do. My aim is to make sure the staff are happy and feel successful in what they do, because that means the company will also be successful. So really what I would like to see for the future is a company that promotes happiness and a place where we can grow and celebrate our success together. www.nagisa-bali.com

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ITDC Complex lot N5, Bali 80363 | +62 361 849 2888 | H9078-FB11@sofitel.com | www.sofitel.com 135

exotic & idyllic retreat ...where life is a private celebration

Sanur I Ubud I Nusa Dua I Jimbaran P. 62 361 705 777 F. 62 361 705 101 E. experience@kayumanis.com

kayumanis

kayumanisresort

brands

Kayu manis Life is a private celebration at Kayumanis properties. Katie Truman experiences the magic.

a world of sweet cinnamon.

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Since 2002, Indonesian Kayumanis hotel group has successfully nurtured an exceptional concept of luxury all-villa boutique resorts in Bali for discerning, culture-thirsty travellers – despite stiff competition and more private villa resorts on the island than you can shake a bamboo stick at. As a sweet, scaled down alternative to some of the bigger brand resorts, there are however a stack of reasons which set the Kayumanis villa properties apart from the rest, which not by accident happen to be in some of Bali’s loveliest locations and top tourist highlights – Jimbaran, Sanur, Nusa Dua and Ubud. Although located in diverse localities, each offering their own unique characters and natural settings to suit the wildest of individual preferences, all four Kayumanis bijou properties are equally gorgeous, serene and intimately sized – no larger than 23 villas. And follow a distinct Kayumanis blueprint, ensuring villa stays are in utter privacy in luxurious comforts with personalized, toasty-warm service. Despite the “exclusive’ touch, it’s all about the small details and immersing guests in authentic Balinese traditional lifestyle, culture and charming local traditions. All starting with the reception front desk – or lack thereof; rather, a miniscule semi-open bale (pavilion) doubling as the lobby, and after being greeted with a traditional Hindu offering, whisked away pronto by your personal butler for a private villa check-in. There’s no massmarket intrusions or facilities overload here, albeit each property houses a divine little spa. Even with contemporary infusions and luxuriously appointed – including at least two flat-screen TVs and gourmet kitchenette per villa – to various extents, all villas follow a traditional Balinese architectural lay-out, purposely designed to emulate the Balinese family compound set-up and that irresistible semi-open style of island living. Villas are super-secluded and serene, tucked away behind high walled gardens providing heaps of space and privacy, with a generous-sized private pool and stone sundeck, and standalone pavilions combining indoor-outdoor living and air-conditioned bedroom suites, topped with alang thatched roofs. None of the villas are numbered; rather individuallynamed relating to a cultural or nature-related theme. Guests get to experience excellent destination-related cultural activities, anything from in-villa full moon blessing dinners, early morning Barong dance performance and sunset fishing expeditions with the locals. In Bahasa, Kayumanis means “cinnamon” and a tasty recurring theme extends to cinnamon-scented bath products and breakfast toast. Like their pretty villa gardens, the Kayumanis brand has grown organically. The first, Kayumanis Ubud Private Villa & Spa, debuted in 2002 with just nine villas in Sayan village, nestled amongst paddy fields and aromatic cinnamon trees overlooking tropical rainforests and Ayung River. Kayumanis Ubud has since undergone a major expansion, now with a total of 23 villas: this back-to-nature hideaway now the jewel in the Kayumanis crown and super-romantic for loved-up couples – hence a “no children under 12” policy. Perhaps created as an antithesis to its monster-sized, resort neighbours, Kayumanis Nusa Dua Private Villa & Spa welcomed its first guests in 2004, submerged in luscious botanical plantations, a short stroll from Nusa Dua’s golden sands and Kayumanis private beach facility. Like Ubud, there’s a distinct romantic vibe with a no kid’s policy and Honeymoon Suite Villa, and a traditional Balinese ambiance, but here infused with some contemporary design elements. Spread across grounds of manicured gardens and waterlily ponds, the 20 units of one, two and three-bedroom pool villas reveal interiors with a strong local feel, contrasting with a contemporary glass wall design – design elements extending to two, super-stylish in-house restaurants. Established 2006, Kayumanis Jimbaran Private Estate & Spa, hidden down a quiet Gang and set amidst a vast coconut grove, comes inspired by the surrounding traditional fisherman’s village. This magical 20-villa property is super family friendly, with kid’s services and amenities, (anything from kid’s spa menu to mini-bathrobes) while the sheer size of the estate and shaded lawns, and Jimbaran Bay itself, with its gentle waters positively lends itself to family activities. Down at the beach, a brief bike ride away, there’s no

Kayumanis branded beach facility, however complimentary shuttles to Kayumanis Nusa Dua beach facility are provided. Kayumanis Jimbaran signature restaurant, specialising in authentic Indonesian cuisine, is housed within a traditional Javanese joglo replica crafted from sustainably sourced hardwood, complete with wrap-around veranda overlooking coconut palms. Alternatively, butlers can set-up a five-course set dinner on a floating platform on villa pools. And finally, originally launched in 2005 in Sanur, as The Gangsa Private Villa & Spa, this fourth Kayumanis property of just 11 villas is the smallest and the most aesthetically traditional: it also signifies a significant milestone in the brand’s history: rebranding in April 2017 as Kayumanis Sanur Private Villa & Spa, it marks the consolidation of Kayumanis as four named luxury properties in four key locations, besides a concerted push to reignite Sanur as a quality destination. Following the rebranding, Kayumanis Sanur discreetly underwent some low-key enhancements and upgrade of existing services and facilities throughout the year; all 11 villas spruced up with several aesthetic upgrades resulting in a fresh designer look – exteriors bear lighter hues and all wooden fixtures white washed – plus additional flourishes of contemporary-style furnishings and décor. Naturally, it’s imperative I check this all out, discovering, ironically, despite the name change and subtle facelift, idyllic Kayumanis Sanur, concealed down a back lane in a leafy hamlet in southern Sanur, in a stone walled compound crammed with mature trees, is still evocative of an old Balinese community, nurturing with lovely warm village charm and strong traditional spirit. No wonder guests return year after year. In fact, if you’ve got a bit jaded with the island, this is a magical spot to reconnect with the Bali you used to love. Hidden away behind lofty stone walls, the one, two and three-bedroom villas may be housed in contemporary-style buildings but again, the style is inspired by centuriesold Balinese family-style compounds. There’s not just thatch on the roofs but atop the imposing black wood entrance gate. Each villa is named after a Balinese orchestra musical instrument showcased in the living-dining pavilion. Kayumanis Sanur also offers a familyorientated environment; three-bedroom villas can sleep up to six, there are family-friendly services, tours and kids activities, and Sanur beach, just two kilometres away by private car shuttles, offers shallow, calm and safe waters protected by coral reefs. Suffice to say my 24-hours holed-up here is bliss. My butler escorts me to my gorgeous one-bedroom villa with a young coconut welcome drink: along with the hugesized swimming pool set in vast gardens, this affords a far larger amount of space than normal and feels like a second home – there’s even an additional studio upstairs for extra beds, yoga or meditation. Post-swim, my (overworked) butler serves up complimentary afternoon tea, a pot of lemongrass iced tea and home-baked cakes, prior to my complimentary half-hour back and shoulder massage at the in-house spa, a heavenly stone sanctuary centred around a pond. I snack on a jar of yummy cinnamon-spiced cookies thoughtfully placed in the villa – so addictive, they should come with a government health warning. Dinner at sweet-yetupmarket Gong Restaurant, a rustic-inclined, semi-open wooden pavilion, is a treat for all the senses: not just for the traditional Balinese cuisine and age-old recipes simmered with local served by impossibly nice, batik-clad waiting staff, but also for the utter romance, at night, providing tables set on shaded lawns overhung with colourful hanging lanterns. Next day, am whisked off at the crack of dawn in a private car – one from their new fleet – to Kayumanis exclusive beach facility on Sanur’s white sands. Life is indeed a private celebration in Sanur and all the other Kayumanis gems; all you need to do is decide on which one. Despite their popularity and ever-increasing awards – and forays into the Chinese market – for the time-being, Kayumanis remain focused on quality rather than quantity, sticking firm with their original concept and core values. www.kayumanis.com

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interiors

Furniture sans frontiers Beyond Borders applauds the heritage and craft of handmade furniture.

“There is no excuse for doing anything that is not strikingly beautiful”, said textile designer, poet and novelist William Morris. This idea resonates in Bali where everyone seems to possess some sort of artistic skill whether it be painting, weaving or woodworking. This is also a key concept at Beyond Borders Imports, a global furniture company that draws on Indonesia’s rich artistic heritage to create stunning handcrafted furniture and accessories. What is now an internationally recognized company with a client list spanning continents, Beyond Borders got its start as a small familyrun furniture business in Louisiana. Co-owner Rebekah Osborn says, “It began 11 years ago when I jumped feet first into the furniture world. I had no knowledge of furniture, retail or even running a business at that point, but things quickly evolved and made sense. After one year, I decided to venture overseas to see how and where all these beautiful products were being made.” Rebekah’s travels took her to India where she encountered master craftspeople creating exceptional pieces made with exotic hardwoods. This is where she started creating bespoke items for the business and discovered a passion for manufacturing. Four years later her ventures led her to Indonesia, where she fell in love with the people, the land, and the capabilities of production in Java and Bali. Today all of Beyond Borders’ furniture is produced in their factory in Java where Rebekah oversees a talented creative crew, checks quality control and works on product development. She says, “Our inspiration really comes from all over. We have a team of designers who create and develop completely original concepts, and we are also inspired by antique products or antique elements that are repurposed, as well as everything from French, Swedish and Asian influences. “We have almost 1,000 diverse designs, so it’s a vast collection that features many different styles and types of products. Our export customers can mix all of these items in one container, which is a very valuable offering, and our retail customers can come to one shop and find Rustic, French, Industrial, Swedish,

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Coastal and Tropical designs. There truly is something for all design styles.” What sets Beyond Borders apart from other furniture companies is their belief in preserving the heritage and craft of handmade furniture. Nothing is mass produced here, but rather made one piece at a time using locally sourced materials and techniques that have been passed down through generations. And while they enjoy playing with new ideas, they never lose sight of function or the human element that goes into each piece. Sustainability is also a core value, which is why Beyond Borders is focusing on putting eco-conscious designs and practices in place. Top priorities include controlling waste, repurposing and recycling materials, and sourcing natural materials that are plentiful and ever-renewing. They are also working towards becoming a member of the Sustainable Furniture Council. Rebekah says, “Being a member of the Sustainable Furniture Council alone is not enough, but we are striving to impact the furniture industry and become more involved in the steps needed to continue the sustainable process. We also have several initiatives in place for 2018 regarding planting trees and adding recycling options near our factory location.” Other plans for the future include developing a major warehouse in the States that will feature their top 50 best-selling designs, and expanding the Beyond Borders factory in Java, which will allow the company to increase their capacity for shipping, reduce production time and get goods out faster. They are also renovating a large space in the middle of the furniture district in Bali, which will triple their offerings in Bali. For the time being, visitors in Bali can stop by their stores in Seminyak and Canggu for furniture and accessories that are at the forefront of global design trends. As Rebekah says, “Typically we see trends happening in Bali that don’t hit the States for a couple of years, so Bali helps us predict international influence of design better than anything else.” “Our Bali locations are open to anyone – wholesalers, designers and retail customers. There is always a wide variety of furniture and décor in stock, and new designs are frequently popping in. In fact, we have wholesalers that continue to use our Bali shop as a resource when they need to quickly fill containers, so our inventory is always changing, which makes the Bali shops exciting, fun and ever-evolving.” S.M. www.beyondbordersimports.com

over the edge

pearl fun in flores.

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The Tale of a Gender Fluid Oyster and Other Stories . . . sophie digby heads east.

Our story begins on a Bali to Labuan Bajo flight. One hour, an unsavoury bun and a flick through the inflight magazine later and the massive airport lettering claims Bandar Udara Komodo. And into the dragons lair we step, but sadly for my colleague who has yet to come face to face with one or two of these prehistoric monitor lizards we are here on another mission – so we will not be heading to Rinca or Komodo, the dragon islands that sit to the west of Labuhan Bajo on the island of Flores. Our journey is one of pearls, bats and synodic permaculture. To give you a little insight into Labuan Bajo, western-most port of the island of Flores: it is a dusty frontier town with an as-yet-undeveloped hotel industry but boasts a highly developed diving industry… PADI signs all round! A multitude of mobile motorbike “shops” park, immobile, portside. Bananas by the bunch load and heads of naked corn ripen or dry on blue and white tarps on the floor… boatmen shout to one another and the market smells, pungent, with stalls and stalls of fresh and drying fish. The latter, enterprisingly, also seem to sell “Pulsa” (mobile top up vouchers). Bizarre, but eerily enough, comforting at the same time since we are so far from our ‘hood’. Our captain pops his head up across the market place and hurries us out of the odorous warehouse into a waiting speedboat. Instead of dragons, we are heading to visit one of God’s original transgender creations – the humble oyster in its current habitat, on one of the Atlas Pearls farms. (These are also located in North Bali, in Punggu – Flores and in Alyui, Alor and Lembata in West Papua). Oysters, transgender? You muse. Stacey Connel of Rodney’s Oyster House in Ontario states, “Oysters are protandrous hermaphrodites. They have this fluid approach to sexuality and gender. They change from male to female and back again, depending on their community. If there are too many males, they can switch to females.” So saying we head over to Atlas Pearl’s farm to see the process of pearl creation by both genders of these bi-valve molluscs. To give you a brief background, Atlas have been pearling for over 20 years, in fact they are a global leader in eco-pearling, and from breeding to jewellery design there are about 3,000 hands that nurture the whole process from beginning to end. This ‘evolution’ is made up of eight steps, namely breeding, grow-out, seeding, pearl farming, harvesting, grading, matching and design. Here on Atlas’ Punggu island, visitors get to enjoy an expeditious immersion into the world of Pinctada, a genus of the saltwater oyster that is able to produce a pearl within the ‘mantle’. Since the charming Atlas Pearls’ family invites you all to visit their farms for free, I’d rather not have to issue a spoiler alert. But to round off the half-day trip the knowledgeable staff takes us through the eight steps, demonstrate how to extract a pearl then whisk us into the air-conditioned show room to have a go at grading. There is more to grading than meets the eye (from D-A and even A-AAA) and since Atlas has the experience then we’re happy for the assist. Just to let you into a secret, worldrenowned Mikimoto purchases some of their high quality pearls from this very company, but I digress. Complimentary lunch – with the thankfully mandatory cold towels – is served on the terrace. The view of the azure blue sea overlooking the farm and towards Flores is blissful, breezy and relaxing so when the captain once again pops his head up, this time over the verandah, it’s obvious our number is up and it’s time to boat it back to Bajo.

I always wonder if one doesn’t dive or snorkel in LB then what on earth is one supposed to do all day? Part of the day has not only been fun, educational with a lovely boat trip, surprisingly it was also 100% complimentary and dry, impressive! (I believe there is a small charge for those wishing to join the Atlas Treasure Hunt. Having booked one day in advance and bringing their own snorkeling gear they can try their luck out in the lagoon to find their very own spherical nacre). So now we best get about sorting our Part 2? Back to port and a quick rendezvous at Bajo Bay Fishermen’s Club, well located to the north of the whole port complex with a fabulous view over the harbour. We are meeting up with the owner and crew of Aqua Luna Selini, a traditional Indonesian sailing phinisi. Its five cabins will actually stay unoccupied as our trip is limited to a sunset cruise to the magical Kalong Island; next time, we dream, and there will definitely be a next time. Wine in the cooler and tapas prepared on the comfortable cushioned deck and we once again leave harbour, alongside a few other sunset cruise boats, mostly phinisi, as part of a band of marine gypsies in their brightly painted, wooden water-caravans. Kalong Island merits zero attention during the day, however at sunset just offshore the gypsies gather, boat engines lulling, all eyes are on this well-forested island. Bated breath and cameras at the ready. As the sun dips, the sky turns orange and the band gets impatient, the sky starts filling with now one, now two, then a few flying foxes. Over the next few minutes the sky above darkens with the hundreds possibly even thousands of fruit bats leaving the mangroves of Kalong heading in the direction of Bajo. Nature as always impressing us to our core. Twilight and we are to make one last stop on our non-aquatic agenda (nonaquatic as in no snorkeling and no diving). Portside, transport awaits (NB: no taxis in LB so private drivers are the only option or public transport – bemo). Our destination is a venue called MadeInItaly. Can someone please explain? (And no it’s not a typo, it’s written as one word). Located on the fringes of Bajo, on Jl. Pantai Pede, Trip Advisor gives MadeInItaly a #4 out of 29 restaurants in this frontier town. Personally, this band of gypsies can only ever give it a #1. Without doubt it is some of the best food I have ever put in my mouth, and it is visually delightful too. More importantly the owner is so passionate about quality and provenance that he has created his very own synodic permaculture farms. To “blow your hippy noodle” is the salad with 21 edible micro leaves and edible flowers, all planted in line with the phases of the moon – hence synodic. The antipasti, secondi piatti, pastas, pizzas and desserts that we try are just divine. Absolutely no clue as to how chef-owner Mario can reach this level of perfection all the way out here! Plus the wine list is nothing to be sneezed at either. Definitely impressed. So wrapping up our “not getting wet” day in Flores? Atlas, Aqua Luna Selini and MadeInItaly, it really has been su-pearl-ative! (Groan). www.AtlasPearls.com.au Komodo.showroom@cipindo.com Pearls by @atlaspearlsbali Bats by @aqualunaselini Synodic Permaculture by @miiflores

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interiors

Things just got a whole lot more sophisticated for retail therapy and die-hard fashionistas in Bali with the launch of pioneering designer hub, TStore. By Katie Truman. When hip TS Suites Bali Hotel launched in 2014 in southern Seminyak, the Indonesian TownSquare Group – owners and management behind such lifestyle developments as TS Suites Surabaya and Jenja Nightclub Jakarta – unleashed their distinctive lifestyle concept here too; TS Suites Bali Hotel courtyard complex earmarked as a Jakarta-style dining, entertainment and lifestyle hub, with a dozen or so carefully selected venues doing business alongside their star player, Jenja Nightclub Bali (still regarded as one of the island’s hottest nightspots) – an entirely new and exciting urban concept for our tropical island. Fast forward to 2017 however and the TownSquare Group switched their attentions to the fashion world, with TS Suites Bali Hotel courtyard complex conceptualized as a sophisticated fashion and style epicentre, and launching in May, TStore: “A Designers’ Hub,” a whopping, 1,600-square-metres large, glassencased store monopolizing most of the premises. Super cool and uber-contemporary TStore offers a one-stop shopping experience and Designers Hub, the first of its kind in Bali, if not Indonesia. “Bali’s first and most exclusive designer collection store with curated handmade fashion pieces, for the most prestigious evening wear besides timeless elegant casual daywear,” states the TStore blurb, and located in, where else, but Seminyak, the island’s forefront neighbourhood of cosmopolitan creativity and fashion cool. Besides answering fashionistas’ prayers and the ultimate in retail convenience and style, with an endless array of apparel, accessories and jewellery all under one roof (not to mention, ample underground parking), TStore’s primary goal is to showcase Indonesia designers and their high-end designs besides promoting Bali and Indonesia’s fashion industry and increasing public awareness to a broader market – Bali the perfect fit for this, not only as an international resort destination, but increasingly, the haunt of jetsetters and the creative and fashion savvy. Plus, as the name implies, at this “Designers’ Hub,” fashion designers can meet with buyers, promote their designs and develop crucial business networks. There are actually around 150 designers, an impressive mix of celebrated Indonesian designers, including Susan Budihardjo, Angeliqa Wu, Oka Diputra, Asti Kaleta, Monika Weber, Raramac, Ali Charisma, Neli Gunawan and Putu Aliki, and young Indonesian talents, just starting out on their fashion careers – many, members of the Indonesian Fashion Chamber (IFC) organization and originating from Jakarta, Surabaya, Bandung, Semarang, Yogyakarta and of course, Bali. TStore also collaborates with a handful of Bali-based, international designers, with familiar names that include Milo, Espen Salberg, KMO and Nagicia.

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What’s in TStore TStore’s open-plan and vast retail space is conveniently divided into four retail zones – casual wear, resort wear, cocktail wear and evening wear – each stunningly showcasing the designers curated fashion designs alongside coordinating shoes, bags and jewellery pieces, displayed chic yet minimalist style on hanging racks, wall shelves and centerstage glass cabinets – along with a few sofas for retail time-out. These eclectic collections are continually refreshed on a monthly basis keeping abreast of the latest trends; a brilliant kaleidoscope of colours and styles running from beach to ballroom that should accommodate even the most discerning tastes and fashionably challenged – and for a high-end designers’ hub, all surprisingly well-priced. Dresses range from cute resortstyle sun dresses to formal style, red-carpet-ready evening gowns in frothy organza silks, sequined cocktail frocks and even divine bridal gowns – some of these super-elegant creations part of exclusive haute couture collections from prominent designers like Dimas Dwitanto, Ali Charisma and Oka Diputra. Day wear runs from multi-coloured, batik hand-stamped shirts and matching sandals to bold statement pant suits, while amongst the bag collections, snapup anything from lurid-hued, ethnic print shoulder bags to smart leather totes and quirky numbers designed like a well-heeled boot. TStore additionally offers the ultimate fashionista fantasy, personalized shopping and styling services, what you’d normally expect in world-renowned high-class stores, the likes of New York’s Saks Fifth Avenue or Galeries Lafayette in Paris, but now, folks, available in downtown Seminyak – another Bali first. Twice monthly on Friday afternoons, TStore hosts a two-hour “Fashion Friday” (by sought-after, personal invitation only), attracting a like-minded coterie of Bali’s fashion community – models, designers, industry movers and shakers et al. A fabulous opportunity over a glass of wine to catch-up, network and take-in a fashion show – a select number of designer collections modelled by snake-hipped, exotically tattooed lovelies sashaying down the improvised runway to infectiously catchy beats from the DJ deck. A fine way to sign-off the week. And if you can’t get your well-honed derriere over to this innovative hub, TStore is also available on-line – the hottest fashions a mere click away. www.tstore.co.id

TSTORE: fashion floor plan.

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fashion freestyle

www.deuscustoms.com

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www.bambusee.com & www.thefranksland.com

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fashion freestyle

www.johnhardy.com/visit-us-in-bali

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Balinese pro-surfer Dyah Rahayu www.atlaspearls.com.au

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fashion freestyle

www.annamichielan.com

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www.bambooblonde.com

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fashion freestyle

www.paulropp.com

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www.espensalberghaute.com

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fashion freestyle

www.balifusarongs.com

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www.torigolf.com

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yak events

f1 trackside with the yak we sprinkled some yak fairy dust on the biggest formula 1 after party in an annual collab with the inimitable robbie hoyes-cock. see you in september!

all star cast.

How very Yak of us to head over to Singapore where we curated the fashion shows for the city state’s biggest and most glamorous Formula 1 weekend after party at the Ritz-Carlton, Millenia Podium Lounge. The glitzy event entertained 10,000 guests over three nights and included such talents at Macy Gray, Giancarlo Fisichella and Fierce Angel who performed live along with an auction of authenticated f1 memorabilia.. Celebrity guests included Mercedes Formula 1 driver Valtteri Bottas; Prince Mateen of Brunei; ex-Formula 1 driver David Coulthard; Australian Rules Hall of Fame footballer Glenn Archer; ex-Formula 1 and A1 driver Alex Yoong; Singaporean Pop/R&B singer and former Singapore Idol Tabitha Nauser, award-winning TV and radio presenter Dominic Lau; E! News Host, Raymond Gutierrez; MTV Host, Hanli Hoefer; and Fox Sports Asia TV presenter Paula Malai Ali amongst others. Kicking off the Formula 1 party weekend, the creator of Hed Kandi, Mark Doyle and the Fierce Angel collective put on a stunning performance which included ‘Fierce Diva’ Soraya Vivian on vocals, as well as London’s most 158

sought-after celebrity saxophonist Lady V and Cuban percussionist Pablo Calzado on the drums. Each night at The Podium Lounge, five-star luxury resort Karma Resorts presented The Nightly Fashion Circuit (curated no less by The Yak Magazine) which featured established Hollywood celebrity designer M The Movement with a host of international celebrities walking the show including Khanngoen “Khan” Nuanual from ThaiAmerican hip hop music group, Thaitanium; hip hop/R&B Malaysian all-girl group, De Fam; Maureen Wroblewitz, winner of Asia’s Next Top Model 2017 and the first Filipina to win the popular modelling search; Alicia Amin, a finalist on Asia’s Next Top Model 2017; as well as the 10 finalists of Miss World Singapore 2017. Sunday night’s fashion finale heralded the inaugural show in Singapore for Bali-based New York Fashion Week designer Mauricio Alpizar who presented his stunning new resort collection “Modern Asia”, accentuated by our very own Erika Peña Jewelry & Accessories. www.podiumlounge.com/sg

FINE CARS GALLERY & BUILT UP CARS SERVICE CENTER

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yak events

The fourth in our series of yak golf events kicked off at handara golf resort bali, backed by a full stable of golfers and sponsors. More on the way in 2018! Volcanic activity … meh, we headed up to the hills and smashed small white balls around a magnificent caldera course at Handara Golf Resort Bali, truly a spectacular setting in the north of Bali. #weareinbalinow

#albenscider #anantaraseminyak #balifusarongs #kykullo #deuscustoms #kingkebabbali #lillalane #nadiaautograha #elkabron #freixenet #atlaspearls #balidinastyresort #balifoodsafari #skytours #baligreenbikes #royaltulip

VIP celebrity chef Farah Quinn joined us courtesy of @exoticridesbali who provided a superb fourdoor Maserati as transport from the Bali National Golf Villas in lieu of our regular Sky Tours helicopter, sadly in for service this weekend.

As ever, winners were grinners, and with such great support from sponsors there wasn’t an empty hand in the room when it came to prize giving. No-one went home alone.

But speed was not the issue, and the event saw 50 players battle it out for the top prize of Heligolf – a trip with the Bali Adventure Tours helicopter at their leisure up and back down again including lunch. The day started with our regular busy set up – giving the golfers among us a chance for an extra round before Practice Day on Friday the 13th, which saw an enthusiastic group carry on their play to the new clubhouse at Handara. Jaguar and Range Rover cars were beautifully provided by PT Nadia Graha Auto. Proudly sponsored by Albens Cider and Stark Beer, the evening was terrific fun and gave some of our keener participants something to think about in the morning tee off at 8am. The weather was spectacular for both days, with glorious sunshine flooding the course and giving all players a great opportunity to score well. Along the way there was entertainment from our sponsors to keep us well fueled until the awards show in the afternoon, beautifully decorated by Bloomz and sponsored by El Kabron with awesome tapas, King Kebab with tasty kebabs, Plaga and Hatten Wines, and Freixenet Cava, as well as great Mexican ice creams from Paletas Wey. Prizes were sponsored by hotels and resorts, as well as Sunbrella, Atlas Pearls and Deus Ex Machina. We would like to thank all our great supporters, who gave us such awesome prizes, not only for the main categories but also for raffle prizes. Our thanks go specifically to #paletaswey #oakley #plataranresorts #supaprintbali #ripcurlschoolofsurf #sunbrella #torigolfbali #wakaganggaresort #theungasan #waterbombali

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The best prizes of course went to the winners, and here they are: BEST TEAM WINNER OVERALL Sponsored by Bali Adventure Sky Tours. Winners Are Grinners: Dave Nicholls, Hans Shults, Nuno Taixeira, Moyo Moyo: Average Stableford: 36.75 FIRST RUNNER UP Sponsored by Freixenet Cava, Bali Food Safari and Deus Ex Machina, Team Rudi Rudi Santoso, Tut De, Anom Triana, Udino Average Stableford: 35.5 SECOND RUNNER UP Sponsored by Ripcurl School Of Surf, Team King Kebab Thomas Andrew, Jenny De Blecourt, Robbert Wille, Ronald Jenkens Average Stableford: 35.25 BEST PLAYER MEN’S Sponsored by The Ungasan Made Ade, 2 over par, Stableford: 39 BEST PLAYER WOMEN’S Sponsored by Soori Bali, Neneng, 6 over par, Stableford: 38 BEST DRESSED TEAM Sponsored by Oakley, Team Farah Quinn NEAREST TO THE LINE Sponsored by St Regis Jenny De Blecourt, Hole 5 LONGEST DRIVE MEN’S Sponsored by Tori Golf, Hans Shults, Hole 15 LONGEST DRIVE LADIES Sponsored by Tori Golf, Lidya Chandra, Hole 15 NEAREST TO THE PIN Sponsored by Waka Hotel and Resort, Made Ada, Hole 2 NEAREST TO THE PIN Sponsored by Bali Dynasty Resort, Hans Shults, Hole 4 NEAREST TO THE PIN Sponsored by Anantara Seminyak, Panchaud, Hole 14

great days are made of this.

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SOUNDS AROUND

The Yak tracked down none other than the Grandfather of Psychedelic Funk music, George Clinton . . . everybody get up!

So George, your first time to Bali? Any first impressions? Yes, it‘s my first time ever. It’s a beautiful place here and the impression is good. Was your family musical? Not really, my mother liked music and my dad sung in church, but I fell in love with music in Jersey in the early ’50s, with Franky Lymon and The Teenagers when rock n roll first started, Chuck Berry, Little Richard, Jerry Lee Lewis, all of that was my introduction to music, so I decided right then when I first heard Why Do Fools Fall in Love, that I was going to become a singer, but I couldn’t sing worth a fuck (laughing) . . . anyway I made my mind up I was going to do it. So that was teenage years? Did you learn an instrument? Well, I just sang, I don’t play. I still don’t play and can’t even keep a beat – I can sing and I can hum it, but I don’t play. I was in a five-man group like The Temptations, yeah, The Parliaments, then Motown came around and I was a part of that and that was the beginning of really being a professional and when Motown came along we changed our name to Parliament, then came Funkadelic and we added that to it and from then on, you know the rest of the story. You have worked with a lot of large formations of the group – is that hard to keep together? Not now because we’ve done got used to it, but in the beginning it used to be, yeah, we was all over the place, and it still gets like that sometimes, but everyone is pretty used to it and has grown now. How do you see the advent of the internet and how it’s affected the music industry? That’s a whole ‘nother career for us. With the internet, we’re actually able to put out new music and get it on the internet which is like the radio stations of today, but before we wouldn’t get on the radio in the ’70s, but now with the internet you can, you can put your cell phone on Youtube and we’ve actually taken advantage of that. Yeah, we reinvented ourselves, we’re actually brand new, it’s like our third wind. So you see it as a positive thing? Oh yeah, everything that has happened to me has been positive, you just have to figure out what you want to do, and we just had figure out our place in it. 162

Moving forward to today, how do you see the current state of world? Oh, you mean Trump Face? I see him the same way like everyone else does, as a butt. Trump Ass . . . he’ll be outta there in a minute . . . he’s gonna stay there while people throw darts at him, but he’s too crazy to leave, he should just leave, people are just going to be talking until he gets his ass outta there, he’ll leave on his own, ain’t nobody paying attention to him anymore. Do you think there was more that the music community could have done to protest or raise opposition? No, stuff like that happens when it’s supposed to, you know, somebody will start it off and get the ball rolling, you can’t say what should have happened. I know I was saying it from the beginning, he was in from the beginning, but saying it gave him power. The people who like him, they don’t like him for him, they just like it ‘cause it’s someone sticking it to the government, so he’s letting them have it their way for a minute, anybody would take advantage of that if they’ve got a good shot at it, but he’s on his way out now, it’s just a matter of time. But get his people out first, because he put a lot of stupid people in there, that’s what’s really messed up, they should actually take the whole GOP out, all of them, ‘cause they backed him, and they did it for money, which is what he’s basically doing – he’s just an ass. Any new collaborations in the pipeline? I’m probably going to do something with Childish Gambino, yeah, matter of fact one of the records he’s got out right now is from one of our songs – the one that sounds like Prince? I Would Rather Be with You with Bootsy Collins. What’s your dream? Be on that space ship that’s going to Mars? It’s supposed to leave in the next five years! I wanna take the band on there and we can perform for the crew. Favorite footwear? Hmmm, what’s the name of these guys – Vans? Yeah. Thanks so much for your time George. You are a true inspiration. www.georgeclinton.com

advertiser's directory 166

EVENT ORGANISER Pro Motion Events Tel: +623614725190 www.pro-motion-events.com Page 165 HEALTH, SPAS & SALONS Blow Bar Tel: +623613350600 www.blowbarbali.com Page 35 Yak Map R.8 Cocoon Medical Spa Tel: +628113882240/41 www.cocoonmedicalspa.com Page 123 Yak Map E.7 Glo Day Spa Tel: +62361738689/ 282 826/ 934 8844/7015600 www.glospabali.com Page 167 Yak Map L.1, X.10 Kayu Manis Tel: +62361705777 www.kayumanis.com Page 136 Yak Map E.16 Toni&Guy Tel: +623614741811 www.essensualshair.com Page 100 Yak Map P.7 HOTELS & VILLAS Alila Manggis www.alilahotels.com/manggis Page 6-7 Alila Seminyak www.alilahotels.com/seminyak Page 6-7 Yak Map. N.5 Alila Ubud www.alilahotels.com/ubud Page 4-5 Alila Villas Uluwatu www.alilahotels.com/uluwatu Page 6-7 Bali Handara Golf Tel: +62361288944 www.handaragolfresort.com Page 136 Four Seasons Jimbaran Tel: +62361701010 www.fourseasons.com Page 33 Yak Map F.15 Karma Beach Tel: +62370630982/+62361848 2202 www.karmaclub.com www.karmagroup.com/karmabeach Page 21 Yak Map F.15 Sandat Glamping Tel: +623618946388 www.glampingsandat.com Page 29 Sofitel Hotel & Resort Tel: +623618492888 www.sofitel.com Page 135 Yak Map G.16 The Anvaya Beach Resort Bali Tel: +62361759991 www.theanvayabali.com Page 73 Yak Map C.13

The Edge/Mesa Hotel & Resort/oneeighty Tel: +6236188470700/+623618470700 www.mesahotelsandresorts.com www.oneeightybali.com Page 141 Yak Map G.15 The Ungasan Clifftop Resort Tel: +623618482111 www.theungasan.com Page BIC Yak Map G.16 Tugu Hotel Tel: +623614731701 www.tuguhotels.com Page 84 Yak Map C.1 Ulu’s Cliffhouse Tel: +62813-3881-2502 www.ulucliffhouse.com Page 10-11 Yak Map F.16 W Retreat & Spa Tel: +623614738106 www.wretreatbali.com Page 114 Yak Map K.4 MEDIA / PRINTING Supa Print Tel: +623618475740 www.supa-print.com Page 165

Yak Map C.7

MISCELLANEOUS Bali Landscape Tel: +6281805661227 www.balilandscapecompany.com Page 6 Yak Directory Yak Map P.1 Bali National Golf Club Tel: +62361771791 www.balinational.com Page 126-127 Freixenet Page FIC Hatten Wines Tel: +623614721377 www.hattenwines.com Page 144 Yak Map G.12 International Global Health Tel +62361737317 www.internationalglobalhealth.com Page 41 Yak Map Z.1 Lakeman Ceramic Tel +62361281440/4490064 www.lakemanceramic.com.com Page 164 Mahallati Interior Design Tel: +62817551414 www.mhllt.com Page 26 Yak Map Y.11 Mason Adventure Tel +62361721480 www.masonadventures.com Page 137 Yak Map G.11 Nadia Auto Graha Tel +623614713333 www.exoticridesbali.com Page 159 VDesign Hospitality Essentials Tel: +62361285137/+6281380285725 www.vdesign-living.com page 2 Yak Directory

Waterbom Bali Tel +62361755676 www.waterbom-bali.com Page 115

Yak Map C.12

PROPERTY Elite Havens www.elitehavens.com Page 1

Yak Map P.8

RESTAURANTS & BARS Azul Beach Club Bali Tel: +62361765759 www.azulbali.com Page 43 Yak Map C.9 Chachara Tel: +6281934699559 Page 45 Yak Map K.2 Da Maria Bali Tel: +6282237733099 www.damariabali.com Page 47 Yak Map. T.3 El Kabron Tel: +6285100803416 www.elkabron.com Page 27 Luigi’s Hot Pizza Page 65 Yak Map M.1 Mase Kitchen & Wine Bar Tel: +62361739090 www.macavillas.com Page 37 Yak Map R.5 Motel Mexicola Tel: +62361736688 Page 101 Yak Map N.6 MyWarung Seminyak Tel: +6281238059687 www.mywarung.com Page 64 Yak Map S.3 MyWarung Ubud www.mywarung.com Page 109 None Kitchen www.nonekitchen.com Page 100 Yak Map V.14 OMNIA Dayclub Bali www.omniabali.com page 4-5 Red Carpet Tel +62369342794 Page 163 Yak Map T.8 Salazon/En.Vie Lane Tel: +623619342100 www.envielane.com Page 34 Yak Map R.8 Ulekan +62 813-3921-1466 www.ulekanbali.com Page 25 Yak Map O.1 Queen’s Tandoor Tel: +62361732770/765988 www.bali.queenstandoor.com Page 164 Yak Map.B.13/T.10 Sundays Beach Club Tel: +628119421110 www.sundaysbeachclub.com Page BIC Yak Map G.15

The Bistrot Tel: +62361738308/7162325 www.bistrot-bali.com Page 39 Yak Map S.8 The Butchers Club Tel: +623618974004 www.thebutchers.club/steakhouse-bali Page 165 Yak Map Q.3 Ti Moris Tel: +623613167129 www.timorisbali.com Page 30 Yak Map M.2 SHOPS Atlas www.atlaspearls.com.au Page 53 Yak Map J.4 Bamboo Blonde www.bambooblonde.com Page 19 Yak Map S.8, U.11 Balifu Sarong Tel: +6285953784088 www.balifus.com Page 52 Yak Map S.13 Bambusee www.bambusee.com Page 22 Yak Map F.7 Beyond Borders Imports Tel: +62857 8207902 www. beyondbordersimports.com Page 85 Yak Map X.3 Biasa www.biasagroup.com Page 15 Yak Map V.12 Supply and Demand Bali Tel: +6282237596863/+6281337036177 www.supplyanddemandbali.com Page 12-13 Deus Ex Machina www.deuscustoms.com Page 8-9 Yak Map O.8 Firmato Espen Salberg Tel: +623618450643 www.firmatoespensalberg.com www.espensalberghaute.com Page 23 Yak Map V.1 John Hardy Tel: +62361469888 www.johnhardy.com Page 17 Yak Map B.15 Paul Ropp Tel: +62361701202/730212/730023/974369/8 496908 www.paulropp.com Page BC Yak Map T.8 Paletas Wey www.paletaswey.com Page 125 Yak Map W.4 Periplus www.periplus.com Page 167 Yak Map F.13/P.7 Sensatia Botanicals Tel: +6236323260 www.sensatia.com Page 72 Yak Map P.7 Sunbrella www.sunbrella.com Page 31

FOR VANITY & SANITY! BEAUTY • SALON • SPA • NAILS • BRIDAL • BARBER

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SEMINYAK: Kunti Plaza – Jl. Kunti No 119 Seminyak, Bali, Indonesia Tel. (+62) 361 738 689

SANUR: Gopa Town Square – Jl. Danau Poso 57 Sanur, Bali, Indonesia Tel. (+62) 361 282 826

Glo Day Spa & Salon CANGGU: Jl. Subak Sari No 90 Canggu, Bali, Indonesia Tel. (+62) 361 934 8844

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glodayspa_bali NUSA LEMBONGAN: Sandy Bay Lembongan, Bali, Indonesia Tel. (+62) 6289 701 5600

11/10/2017 12:06:12 PM

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moodofthemoment By Dr Deepak | astro-deepak@usa.net | www.astronlp.com | Skype: drdeepakvidmar

Forces of shock and change at odds with forces of stability and endurance this year. More of last yearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s floods and hurricanes and economic crises to add to the mix. Problems with government fracturing and dysfunctional and not being able to handle all of this. The best hope is that nations and tribes learn to cooperate and help each other.

aries

Uranus transit in Aries continuing until April 2019. Affecting most now those born around the 15th of April. Freedom now is your first priority, no matter what the cost, even if you have to chew your foot off to get out of the trap. Time to follow your own path, not the herd.

taurus Strong energies to go deep with what you know and to expand your horizons of beliefs and spiritual, philosophical visions. Maybe good to take a course or program. Maybe even better to travel to foreign lands. Maybe you yourself become the teacher. Good to take a little time and correspond with people far away in different parts of the world. gemini Those of you born the first week of June may be feeling lost and confused about who you are, what you are doing, and where you are going. Nothing is wrong. Neptune transit aspect. This is what Neptune does. It doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t feel comfortable, but by dissolving, melting the boundaries of your ego, you become more fluid and melt with the other and the sea. cancer

Strong times for you now. Saturn just went opposite Cancer into your house of relationship and others. Some loneliness and learning to be on your own. Some of you will welcome a period of retreat. Slow moving Pluto grinding away and bringing crises with others. Maybe power or dominance or even death issues. Meeting powerful persons.

leo

Busy, busy, lots of work for the job and lots of things to do around the house. Good time to clean out the closets and cluttered drawers. Good time to get those medical checkups you have been putting off and to follow your diet and nutrition routine. The work on your job good and meaningful, but maybe some control or dominance issues with co-workers.

virgo Neptune transit opposite Virgo during this time may leave your brain feeling confused and gah gah, particularly if born around the first week of September. Enjoy the relief from that relentless logical mind of yours that separates you from the universe with categories and proper nouns and conclusions that separate This from That. Enjoy Kindness in your life. libra The emphasis during this time is on the home, your sense of security and your base of operations in the world. There may be some things

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that need to be fixed and put right again. It is time for that which has gotten old or worn out to be replaced or improved. Money supply seems to be abundant, but you may end up spending most of it.

scorpio

Your life is about to go through a major change, but it is more than a year away. In preparation for that, now is the time to travel, go to parties, meet new people, learn new jokes, expand your horizons and see the world. It is a Jupiter transit in your sign that happens only once every 12 years. Write about your experiences and send your travel blog around.

sagittarius

A restructuring of your finances now might be a good idea so that you can finally, finally begin to plan for the future which maybe you have not done so far. What is particularly lucky about you is that you tend to be in the right place at the right time. Good fortune now to help those less fortunate than you.

capricorn

Your life was never about fun any way, but this period of time may be too much, even for you. The positive intention is to help you become stronger and to endure what it takes to get to the top of the mountain. Pluto is still grinding away bringing crises that need to be salvaged. Now Saturn has entered Capricorn for a couple of years to teach you to do it alone.

aquarius For most of your life you have been logical and aloof, apart from mundane day-to-day affairs. Friendly, but detached. Now, half the planets are in your 12th House stirring the unconscious, dreamworld mind. Good to be subjective instead of objective for a while. Try the experience of writing down your dreams as soon as you wake up and then tell them to someone. pisces Precious beloved gentle one, this long Neptune transit continues to dissolve any little bit of ego you ever had. You may be feeling lost without direction or sense of firm identity who you are. What this transit is teaching you is that you are everyone. They are the mirror reflection of you and you are the mirror reflection of them. Good to melt and be loved.