Volume 60 sep/oct/nov 2018
slow down liar liar felliniesque #bali blow rock st r pads tropicola IDR100,000 : S$11 : HK$60 : A$10 : â‚Ź6
B I A S A G R O U P. C O M | B A L I S E M I N Y A K - S A N U R - U B U D - B A T U B E L I G | J A K A R T A K E M A N G
Photo JEFF ZWART
Surprisingly different...
ULTIMATE FRIENDS’ DAY OUT AT ALILA UBUD Gather your friends and escape to Alila Ubud for the Ultimate Friends’ Day Out. No indulgence has been spared. Stay a night in our luxurious 252 sqm Two Bedroom Terrace Tree Pool Villa, where you can swim above the treetops in your own private pool, and relax outdoors on the spacious terrace, soaking up the rainforest views. Breakfast, lunch and dinner are included, along with unlimited pampering spa treatments, and a free flow of wine and bubbles crafted experiences by Alila and return transfer. An unforgettable way to celebrate a special occasion, or simply spoil yourselves www.alilahotels.com/ubud
ALILA VILLAS ULUWATU . BALI
ALILA UBUD . BALI
ALILA MANGGIS . BALI
ALILA SEMINYAK . BALI
SELF-STYLED HOLIDAYS AT ALILA BEST RATES + PRIVILEGES Bali offers a spellbinding mix of relaxation and adventure, history and culture, age-old traditions and modernity. Discover its many unique sides in one complete experience with Alila. Style your travels any way you want, encompassing a stay in any or all of our four hotels in Bali....
Be an Alila Discovery member and reap the benefits : www.alilahotels.com/alila-discovery Share your Alila Moments from your instagram and hashtag the Alila hotels to be featured on www.alilamoments.com
Your package includes complimentary airpor t transfers and transfer between proper ties, daily breakfast. Stay at a minimum of two proper ties for a minimum of 4 nights in total. Enjoy more pampering benefits when you stay 5 nights and above.
For more information email : social@alilahotels.com
www.alilahotels.com
WELCOME TO MYWARUNG®, 5 DIFFERENT RESTAURANTS ACROSS BALI. EPIC FOOD, THE BEST COFFEE, HAPPY PEOPLE. PREMIUM MEATS & POULTRY, CURATED MOCKTAILS, COCKTAILS & WINES. TO CHECK EACH RESTAURANT MENU, PLEASE VISIT MYWARUNG.COM
MyWarung® Berawa Canggu 11 am - midnite Subak Sari 80, berawa 0823 3912 0880
MyWarung® Echo Beach 8 am - 10 pm Batu Mejan 78, Echo Beach 0822 6602 9978
MyWarung® Batu Belig 8 am - 11 pm Batu Belig 8A, seminyak 0812 3805 9687
MyWarung® Ubud 11 am - 11 pm Galleria Menara Ubud No 8 Jalan Raya Ubud, Gianyar 0813 3956 7708
MyWarung® pasar Petitenget 6 pm - midnite Lebak Sari 18A, Petitenget Seminyak 0822 3500 5718.
coming soon Harmoni, Central Jakarta Menteng , Central Jakarta Yogyakarta
www.theyakmag.com
Volume sixty SEP/OCT/NOV 2018
The Yak Magazine Sophie Digby, Nigel Simmonds, Agustina Ardie, Michelle Lamb Creative Director Stuart Sullivan Sales & Marketing Shanty Wijaya, Amik Suhartin Production Manager Selma Aulina Graphic Designers Irawan Zuhri, Ida Bagus Adi Accounting Julia Rulianti Distribution Made Marjana, Putu Widi Susanto, Gede Swastika, Made Rekayasa, Kadek Eri Publisher PT. L.I.P Licence AHU/47558/AH/01/01/2011
Cover by gianluca fellini.
Advertising Enquiries Tel: (+62 361) 766 539, 0851 0043 1804, 0851 0043 1805, 0851 0043 1796 info@theyakmag.com sales@theyakmag.com Snail Mail & Walk Ins The Yak Magazine, Kompleks Perkantoran Simpang Siur Square, Jl. Setia Budi, Kuta, Bali 80361, Indonesia
OK you know the drill. No part of this publication may be copied or reproduced electronically or otherwise without prior permission from the Publisher. Opinions expressed are those of the authors not the Publisher. The Publisher reserves the right to refuse advertising that does not comply with the magazine's design criteria. The Yak will not be held responsible for copyright infringements on images supplied directly by advertisers and/or contributors. Check us out online, we’re awesome (if we do say so ourselves). Peace.
Magazine printed by Gramedia Outdoor assets by Supaprint © PT Luxury In Print www.theyakmag.com
The Yak Magazine
@theyakmagazine
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Archives, additional content and more at www.theyakmag.com
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HANDCR AF T ED MODERN CHAIN
Visit our Jewelry Workshop and Boutique in Ubud For inquiries and appointments, please contact Tel: +62 (0) 361 469 888 Email: visit@johnhardy.com international.johnhardy.com/visit-us-in-bali @JohnHardyJewelry
@JohnHardyJewelry
@JohnHardy
Kapal Bamboo Ubud Boutique | Mulia Resort & Villas | AYANA Resort & Spa | DFS Bali Airport & Domestic Terminal
contents 18
The Big Six O.
28
Diary Days
30
Hope & Hospitality
32
Who’s In?
Yakety yak
dates with destiny
one world
new in the hood
42
Stuff Of Champions
48
Gianluca Fellini
56
out of the box
culture vulture
people
Badara Official
56 14
58
Hanalei Swan
60
Byron Kelleher
64
Deniz Reno
66
CĂŠsar Fernandez
people
people
sounds around
artsake
68
Matthew Bater
76
The Slow Road North
82
brands
travel
yak fashion
Primary C
48
92
Pika and Pascal
94
Noku Beach House
96
Ropp's Landing
102
ministry of interiors
venting in a villa
ministry of interiors
oral pleasures
Tropicola
106
Ibiza In Bali
108
SugarSand
112
66
oral pleasures
oral pleasures
overnighting
New & Notable Hotels
60
contents Omnibus, page 72: liar liar pants on fire
110
Roosterfish
116
Karma Wellness
118
A Capella
122
Aperitif
124
oral pleasures
Spas
oral pleasures
oral pleasures
oral pleasures
Dumbo Pizza
64
126
The Seminyak
128
Kaum
130
Playing With Fire
132
Chocolate!
134
oral pleasures
oral pleasures
oral pleasures
Big Six
taken not stirred
Blown Away
76
138
Halal Botanicals
140
On Point
148
The Yak Golf 6.0
152
What’s What
154
Skull It.
96
brands
fashion freestyle
yak events
ad directory
last word
91 laurina paperina.
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www.theanvayabali.com
INSPIRED BALINESE ELEGANCE ON KUTA BEACH
yakbak Did you know that there are no less than 498 icons for the word “collaboration” on the flaticon.com site? All arranged in seven, neat packs for both personal and commercial use. Work together, team up, join forces or play ball – we’re all doing it. In fact that is definitely what this last decade has been about. Collaboration is the “fuel” of any business. Thoughtfarmer.com defines it as, “Two or more people working together towards shared goals”. Technology, they go on to add, only fits in as an addition, using social software amongst a big group of people does not equate to “collaboration”. However we here at The Yak always have been, and always will be, about collaboration. Two or more people … working together … towards shared goals. Our goals? To bring the who, the what and the where of Bali direct to your appreciation nodes. In this issue, as with each, we take a moment in One World to join forces with various well-meaning and selfless charities. (Pretty sure you have heard about the devastation in Lombok? Please see our preferred Lombok links or donation accounts at the bottom of this piece). Next up, is the massive collab that it takes to bring new businesses to life – that is all in our New In The Hood, and then if you go on into our Out Of The Box, you will find a gorgeous assemblage of creative coproduction. We put some very co-functioning humans under a bit of a spotlight in People (Gianluca Fellini; the heady and heighty designer, model, creative director, Badara; the ever-so young Hanalei; the previously unstoppable Byron Kelleher; singer Deniz Reno; uber-talented artist César and Warisan Furniture’s new blood, Matthew Bater), before we head off into the inner workings of Bali’s luxury tome – this issue’s Omnibus takes Gava Fox into the world of “bendable truth”! Co-peddaling into the distance the Deus boys take us into the hills of Ubud, before our Yak Fashion spread goes into bold and block colours curated by stylist Glamazoid. Next up is our Ministry of Interiors feature, with notes from a creative trio about their own houses; Pika from Sardine, fashion mogul Paul Ropp about his pad in Jimbaran and last of all we introduce you to Seminyak’s newest uber-luxe villa on the beach – Noku. All showing that it always takes more than just one man, or woman, to build a house or two! Beach Club bohemia is next, we have definitely reached the tipping point for all things beach club – officially, Bali is the Ibiza of the East! Moving on, we come to one of our favourite types of alliances – those that happen in kitchens … and so to Ubud we go with Capella, Dumbo and Aperitif – all of which we have fallen in love with! Then head down south to Seminyak Resort’s Sanje, Kaum by Potato Head and W Retreat’s fabulous Fire, they all feed us with an amazing diet of outstanding food, unforgettable sea views and fabulous sunsets. It certainly takes a village to get us gals ready for a night out, so where better than Blow Bar in Seminyak? It is the ‘go-to’ place for our locks to get teased as behind the bar, the bar-team joins forces to create some excellent cocktails. Nearing the end of our time with you, we are thrilled to bring you Fashion Freestyle and instead of our usual AstroYak, this issue we introduce “Last Word” – in which Bali Burner and Skull co-founder Rhett Hutchence gives us the highs and lows on life and how it is for him. So saying this September and on, let’s join forces and truly collaborate. Let’s team up to help rebuild Lombok. As ever, May The Yak be with you! Our preferred Lombok donation destinations: www.gofundme.com/help-lombok-communities I’m an Angel Foundation (www.imanangel.org) Yayasan Bali Angel CIMB NIAGA BALI Account number 4340100479006 CIF Number B227589 Jl. Bypass NGURAH RAI No 88 KUTA BALI 80361
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Dear Yak, Copies have arrived. Thanks again! Wonderful. Especially the Earth images, well printed, very nice. We are happy. Big smile from Berlin to Bali. Best regards, Sinta + Thomas Germany If you haven't checked out the work of Sinta Tamsjadi and Thomas Schmidt we urge you to do so here: www.theyakmag. com/ashesearth Dear Yak, Another great golf day – especially liked the Haka as performed by your VIP All Black Byron Kelleher. Enjoyed watching him on the pitch back in the day! Cheers, Steve, Bali Don't miss our next event at Bali Handara in Bedugul on Oct 6!
Dear Yak, Another awesome and creative issue, keep up the great work! Best, Jane Williams, UK. Thanks Jane for being such a sport. See you soon in Bali and congratulations on your wedding! Dear Yak, I'm looking to intern with a magazine in Bali later this year and I wondered if you are involved in any student programs that I could join. Regards, Billie Clarijs Holland Yes Billie! We work with a number of student organisations but we would recommened www. belindointernships.com
In The Lap Of: The Beckhams The Beckham family arrived in Bali this August – only to be greeted by disturbing tremors underfoot as the earthquake season got into full tilt. Not too worried about the shaky start however they spent some time here before heading east to the fabulous Nihiwatu resort in Sumba, featured in our last issue which is strewn about the resort in multiple locations. Yak On!
A hidden slice of paradise, Discover the magic of sleeping in a safari tent!
LUXURY RESORT IN BALI
KARMA BEACH BALI INTERNATIONAL DJS • HIGH SEASON EVENTS • BEACH & WATERSPORT ACTIVITIES SIGNATURE COCKTAILS • MEDITERRANEAN CUISINE • FRESH SEAFOOD • SUSHI BAR FAMILY FUN • YOGA BALE • OCEAN SPA
T: +62 (0)361 848 2205 | E: info@karmabeach.com |
karmabeachbali |
we create...
karmabeachclubs | WWW.KARMAGROUP.COM/KARMABEACH
experiences
calendar
fridge magnet fodder for the peripatetic.
FORMULA 1 SINGAPORE Rev up your engines because the Formula 1 Singapore Grand Prix will be tearing up the Marina Bay Street Circuit from September 14th to September 16th. This is the 10th anniversary of the world’s first and only Formula 1 night race, so you can expect to see tons of action both on and off the track. Besides exhilarating races there will also be star-studded parties, over-the-top fashion shows, and fist-pumping performances by world-renowned artists like The Killers, Liam Gallagher, and Martin Garrix. If you can only make it to one after-party, hit up the Podium Lounge on Sunday for what’s sure to be a high-octane performance by Taboo from the Black Eyed Peas. www.singaporegp.sg www.podiumlounge.com/sg/ THE YAK GOLF INVITATIONAL Get set for more Yak-backed golf on October 6th, this time at the fabulous Bali Handara Golf Club in Bedugul. If you’ve haven’t experienced golf within the confines of a long dormant volcano… now’s your chance. As usual the day will be backed by a series of great food and beverage sponsors, including Heineken, Albens Cider and Sky Vodka. There will also be a helicopter arrival, terrific prizes and golfing fun. Watch the Yak website for more details, or await our emailer coming out in September. Golf enthusiasts will know to arrive a day early for a practice round, then stay the night before the tournament on the following day. Fore! www.theyakmag.com
IF YOU’RE IN THAILAND… November 21 to November 23 — Loy Krathong and Yi Peng (Chiang Mai): The full moon in November marks not one, but two dazzling light festivals in Chiang Mai. Loy Krathong is the night when Thai people float colourful offerings topped with candles down the river as a symbolic release of negative emotions. On the same evening they also celebrate Yi Peng by releasing paper lanterns fuelled by candles into the night sky along with wishes for good luck in the year ahead. The festivals take place all over Thailand, but Chiang Mai attracts the biggest crowds, which also makes it the most spectacular to see with thousands of lights twinkling in every direction. December 12 to December 16 — Wonderfruit (Pattaya): Thailand’s biggest eco-friendly music festival is back with another round of art, rhythms, food, and ideas. Held over four days at the Siam Country Club in Pattaya, this groovy gathering aims to encourage innovative solutions for sustainable living and bring together a global community. The eclectic line-up includes drum and bass maestro Goldie, renowned rockers Fleetwood Mac, and Tuvan throat singers to name just a few. You can also expect innovative art installations, tasty Thai street food, wellness treatments, and inspirational talks and workshops. IF YOU’RE IN ARGENTINA… October 6 to October 18 — Summer Youth Olympic Games (Buenos Aires): If you want the inside scoop on the next generation of Olympic stars, head to Buenos Aires this October when thousands of young athletes will descend on the city to test their mettle at the Summer Youth Olympic Games. Categories include roller sports, archery, swimming, and karate, and unlike the adult Olympics, many categories have mixedgender and mixed-nationality teams. 28
UBUD WRITERS & READERS FESTIVAL Now in its 6th edition, the Ubud Writers & Readers Festival has grown to become one of Southeast Asia’s leading literary celebrations, attracting authors, artists and activists from around the globe. This year the festival will run from October 25th to October 29th with a slew of eclectic events including thought-provoking discussions, hands-on workshops, literary lunches, and debates. Throughout the five-day festival guests can engage in talks with speakers from locales as diverse as Makassar, Nigeria, India, Australia, and Jakarta, as well as live music performances, art exhibitions, book launches, and youth programmes. www.ubudwritersfestival.com JOGJA INTERNATIONAL HERITAGE WALK See Jogja from a whole new perspective on the 10th annual Jogja International Heritage Walk. This interactive event celebrates sports, the environment, and culture, and attracts about 3,000 people from 20 different countries every year. Held over three days, the 5, 10, and 20-kilometre walks set out for Prambanan temple along winding roads that skirt rice fields and traditional villages and offer views of Mount Merapi. The three-day festival also includes parades, cycling and swimming challenges, tree-planting sessions, batik classes, and friendship dinners. The JIHW starts on November 16th and culminates with a vibrant farewell party on November 18. www.jogjaheritagewalk.com
November 10 — LGBT Pride Parade (Buenos Aires): Cosmopolitan Buenos Aires has been named the most gay-friendly city in Latin America, so it should come as no surprise that the city plays host to the biggest LGBT pride parade in the region. From its humble beginnings in 1992 with just a smattering of people, the parade has now grown into an all-out extravaganza that attracts upwards of 100,000 people every year. There will be plenty of parties in the days leading up to the parade, which kicks off on November 10th at 1pm in the Plaza de Mayo with music, dancing, and a no shortage of flair. IF YOU’RE IN THE USA… October 5 to October 7 & October 12 to October 14 — Austin City Limits (Austin, Texas): When a music festival has to expand to two weekends instead of just one, you know it has to be something pretty damn special. Austin City Limits offers a mindblowing line-up of musicians playing on eight stages over two different weekends with headliners like Paul McCartney, Odesza, Metallica, and the Arctic Monkeys. And when you’re not rocking out to sick rhythms, you can grab local bites and beers, take the kids to their own mini-fest, or get involved with local organisations committed to making the world a better place. November 8 to November 15 — DOC NYC: If documentary films are your bag, then DOC NYC should be on your bucket list. This annual film fest burst onto the Big Apple scene in 2010, and by 2014 had become the biggest documentary film festival in America. Film buffs can choose from over 300 movies ranging from reportage to memoirs, history, and humour, along with inspiring talks and events featuring over 200 special guests. The festival is also an Academy-qualifying festival for short films, so you may just catch an award-winning flick before it hits the mainstream.
giving back
charity begins at home. stephanie mee.
AGUNG SIAGA If you were in Bali in the end of July or early August, then you no doubt felt the rolling earthquakes and aftershocks that wreaked havoc on Lombok. At the time of writing, thousands of people in Lombok have lost their homes and more than 400 people have died. Local Bali relief group Agung Siaga were quick to respond, and currently have volunteers working on the island to assess damage, help rebuild, and facilitate transportation and distribution of supplies. They need all the help they can get. Agung Siaga was formed shortly after Mount Agung erupted in September. This collective of various organisations, business owners, and individuals began with the goals of providing relief to villagers who had been evacuated from the mountain, sharing logistics about evacuee camps, and educating and empowering communities about volcano safety. When the first earthquake hit Lombok, they shifted their focus, and already had volunteers on the ground when the second 6.2 magnitude earthquake hit. Much like they did in Bali with the Mount Agung disaster, this tireless team is assessing needs and the potential for effective support on Lombok, as well as building relationships with communities and organisations, helping to clear rubble, rebuild homes, and distribute essentials such as food, water, clean clothing, sleeping mats, medicines, and tarps. They are also raising awareness about Lombok’s overwhelming need for support through their social media networks. Agung Siaga is a non-profit organisation that runs entirely on volunteers, so fundraising is crucial to their efforts. Donations of any kind are much appreciated, but cash donations are most useful for purchasing items that are critical to rebuilding and helping the people of Lombok recover. You can donate directly via bank transfer to BCA KCP Ubud, account number: 1350461431, account name: Kusumorini Susanto. www.facebook.com/agungsiaga.ubud www.gofundme.com/help-lombok-communities BALI PINK RIBBON According to records from Sanglah Hospital, there are 200 new cases of breast cancer in Bali every year, and those are just the ones that are detected. Sadly, many more women develop the disease without realising until it is too late. Bali does have hospitals that offer screening and breast cancer treatment, however, there is little infrastructure for raising awareness about the disease. Bali Pink Ribbon aims to shorten this gap in knowledge. BPR was founded by Gaye Warren, a breast cancer survivor who lived in Bali for a number of years. During her time here, Gaye was part of the Bali International Women’s Association, so she convinced them to start a fundraising campaign to raise awareness about breast cancer. Gaye drew on her experiences with the Pink Ribbon Walks in the UK, and together with four friends created the first Bali Pink Ribbon Walk in 2009. Now celebrating their 10th year, the Bali Pink Ribbon Walks help
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disseminate knowledge about breast cancer and raise funds for the Bali Pink Ribbon Foundation, which develops programmes to inform, support, and empower women and their families in Bali and outer islands. The foundation also runs a Breast Cancer Support Centre where women can receive information and treatment from medical professionals in Indonesia and overseas. The next Bali Pink Ribbon Walk and Run takes place on October 18th at the ITDC Hotel complex in Nusa Dua. Tickets sales will go towards setting up a centre in Denpasar where out-of-town patients can transit while waiting for treatment, purchasing a second-hand mini-bus for transporting patients, and financing seminars and screening road shows in 2019. Besides the walk, there will also be free screenings for participants, food trucks, market stalls, and entertainment for the whole family. www.bpr.balipinkribbon.com JOHN HARDY 1000 BAMBOO VILLAGES So much more than just a luxury jewellery company, John Hardy is dedicated to working in harmony with nature and local communities. From the materials used in each piece of jewellery to the construction and operation of the workshop in Bali, and their latest environmental projects, sustainability is woven into every aspect of the brand. In 2006, John Hardy unveiled their Wear Bamboo, Plant Bamboo campaign to offset its carbon emissions and benefit local communities. Since then, a percentage of sales from each piece of their Bamboo jewellery collection has been allocated to buying bamboo and planting it in Bali. In 2017, the company celebrated its 10th anniversary and one million bamboos planted. Bamboo has many benefits for the environment and communities. Stands of bamboo release 35% more oxygen than equivalent stands of trees, help maintain water tables, and can be harvested for building purposes much faster than any equivalent wood. This makes it a viable alternative to rainforest wood and plantation options. Bamboo can also help boost the economy, as local people can use bamboo for buildings, crafts, and ceremonial objects. In 2018, John Hardy began the 1000 Bamboo Villages project to kick-start a bamboo nursery that will donate seedlings to propagate 280,000 bamboo plantings in three villages in Flores by 2020. The programme will also teach local farmers sustainable bamboo forestry techniques so villagers can grow and harvest their bamboo and sell it for a profit to identified and secured business owners. With these projects, John Hardy remains committed to being a force for change and ensuring that sustainability of community, artisanship and the environment continue to be part of who they are in Bali and internationally. www.johnhardy.com
T H E B AT H E S S E N T I A L S T H AT A R E G O O D FOR YOU AND THE ENVIRONMENT A L L N AT U R A L . B I O D E G R A D A B L E . S U L FAT E F R E E
K A R A N G A S E M . U B U D . D E N P A S A R . S A N U R K U T A . S E M I N Y A K . C A N G G U . N U S A D U A SHO P ON L I N E AT SE N SATI A . C O M
AFTERNOON DELIGHT There are few places in Ubud where you can enjoy classic afternoon tea, so the Afternoon Delight package at the stunning Sthala hotel in Lodtunduh is a much welcome addition. For just IDR 125.000++ per person, you can indulge in a delectable selection of finger foods, savoury pastries, and sweet treats paired with quality international teas and coffees. Even better, you can have your tea at three different locations including the Green Abing Terrace overlooking the Wos River, the Naga Rooftop Bar, or the elegant Sungai dining room. Advanced reservations are highly recommended. Tel: +62 361 301 8700 www.sthalaubudbali.com
SOH29 THE EPIC If you’re planning to be at the Ubud Writers & Readers Festival in October, you won’t want to miss the launch of SOH29 The Epic, an interactive web-book telling a riveting tale of love, hate, envy, ignorance, and the inevitability of fate. The story is performed by Balinese children from the dance school founded by Balinese dance master Ida Bagus Oka Wirjana, and is loosely based on the Ramayana and Shakespeare’s Othello. The web-book will feature 32 photographs complete with animations, music scores and voice-overs weaving the tale. www.syndicaat.org/soh29-the-epic/
RIJSTTAFEL FEASTS Klass & Brass, a whisky and wine bar and private dining room at The Seminyak Beach Resort & Spa has just launched regular Rijsttafel feasts, and we can’t wait to try their authentic specialties from around the Indonesian archipelago. Each dish pays homage to Indonesia’s rich culinary heritage and features an elaborate blend of fresh ingredients, intricate flavours and aromatic spices. Only premium local ingredients are used, fresh sauces are made in house, and spices are ground by hand. The rijstaffel feast is available for a minimum of 8 people with reservations made one day in advance. Tel: +62 361 730 814 www.theseminyak.com
EARTH-FRIENDLY DOG TREATS Spoil your dog and do your part for the environment with Dog.Ma, a new Bali startup that’s providing an eco-friendly alternative to the use of single-use plastics in pet products. Their grain-free, hand-made dog treats are produced using top-grade, natural ingredients and come in reusable glass jars or plastic-free refill packets. You can grab them in three flavours (roast chicken with herbs, steak and mushroom, and babi guling) at the Sunset Vet Clinic in Kuta, BAWA (Bali Animal Welfare Association) shop in Ubud, or online on Tokopedia. Tel: +62 815 980 1613 32
SUGARSAND Carving a unique spot in the vibrant Seminyak beach scene, SugarSand is an exquisite two-level creation overlooking the Indian Ocean. Reinventing Japanese elements and taking inspiration from Bali's wild nature, the structure resembles a ‘jukung’ fishing boat, reflecting its connection to the surrounding land and sea. So much more than just a beachside bar and restaurant, this stunning space features poolside daybeds for basking the day away, a beach bar and terrace where you can dip your toes in the sand, and an open-air roof lounge to enjoy the sunset while sipping sexy cocktails and snacking on innovative Nikkei-influenced bites. Tel: +62 361 209 9999 www.sugarsandbali.com
JI KABUKI During the Japanese occupation of Indonesia in the first part of 20th century, local plays directed and trained by Japanese soldiers were often arranged to entertain the soldiers who were far away from home. Inspired by this piece of history, Ji at Hotel Tugu Bali is bringing the tradition back to life with an exciting new dining experience that includes Kabuki-inspired costumes, samurais, geishas, comical poems and music, not to mention delectable contemporary Japanese cuisine. The dinner takes place in the dramatic Bale Sutra, a private Kang Xi period temple from 1706, and is available with prior booking for a minimum of 6 people. Tel: +62 361 473 1701 www.jirestaurantbali.com
WARISAN For over 29 years, Warisan has been crafting high-end furniture for the international hospitality scene with gorgeous pieces gracing some of the most interesting venues in the world. Thanks to its long-established in-house factory process and fruitful relationships with talented designers and prestigious properties, the company now has more global presence than ever before. Whether it’s a full scope contract boutique hotel project or a home refurbishment, Warisan helps enhance every space with a timeless approach. Visit their showrooms at Warisan Living in Kerobokan or Warisan Casa in Jimbaran to discover their ample collection of unique masterpieces. Tel: +62 361 421 752 www.warisan.com 34
THE MOOSE ESPRESSO BAR Located in the funky environs of My Warung Batu Belig, The Moose Espresso Bar is a hip spot to start your day off right with an aromatic artisan coffee. The company was founded in Seminyak in 2013 with the mission of sourcing the best quality green coffee in the most sustainable way. They invest countless hours into direct trade sourcing, visiting the origins of the beans at least three times a year and fostering relationships with the farmers. In addition, the talented team of baristas are continually working on how they approach green coffee as they aim to translate the coffee’s unique taste and heritage into every cup. Tel: +62 812 3805 9687 www.mywarung.com
STEP UP YOUR SWING Golfers in Bali now have a great opportunity to improve their skills at The Leadbetter Golf Academy in the Bali National Golf Club. Philippe De Busschere, LGA master and director says, “We are highly motivated to establish a first class golf academy in Bali not only to help individual golf players but also to raise the level of golf in Indonesia. Of special importance is our youth program, an essential cornerstone in our program.” The academy has programmes to suit all ages including group clinics, private lessons and playing lessons, plus the latest technology like Trackman, Gasp software, and the famous Leadbetter exercises and training aids. Tel: +62 822 6611 2828 www.leadbetterbali.com
JACKSON LILY’S For the past two years, chef Dean Keddell of the highly-acclaimed Ginger Moon Asian Canteen has been working on a new restaurant, and it’s finally ready for action. Situated on Seminyak’s main strip, Jackson Lily’s is a vast cathedral of innovative Asian cuisine. On the ground floor there is an open kitchen, lavish pastry display, and long, welcoming bar. Head upstairs and you’ll find a breezy dining room and all-weather balcony perfect for early morning bites, sunset drinks and evenings dining under the stars. The cuisine takes inspiration from Asian home cooking with contemporary twists and is complemented by an assortment of tropical cocktails, fresh juices, and a punchy wine list. Tel: +62 361 474 0121 www.jacksonlilys.com
WAKE UP CALL AT THE W Always thinking outside of the box, W Hotels has just announced the global roll out of WAKE UP CALL, the brand’s signature music festival series that will make stops at three W Hotels this year including W Bali – Seminyak from October 4th to October 6th. Combining the brand’s long standing passion for music with its signature Whatever/ Whenever® philosophy, WAKE UP CALL is available exclusively for members of Marriott International’s Starwood Preferred Guest and Marriott Rewards loyalty program, and will include performances throughout the hotel by Phantogram, Charli XCX, Martin Solveig, Gorgon City, Sam Feldt and Angus & Julia Stone. Tel: +62 361 300 0106 www.wretreatbali.com
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TIDES OF GOOD VIBES Follow the sound of the waves to the newly unveiled Ocean Bar at Alila Manggis. Nestled right by the ocean, this cosy al fresco lounge and bar is a relaxing destination to enjoy sunset cocktails or drinks under the stars after dining at the resort’s Seasalt restaurant. Guests can choose from an extensive menu of signature cocktails made with fresh ingredients from the organic garden, plus cold beers, fine wines, and delectable bar bites like finger-licking fish and chips and Balinese favourite Iga Bakar Babi. You can also learn how to mix the perfect cocktail at the bar’s hands-on mixology class. Tel: +62 361 848 2166 www.alilahotels.com/manggis
DA MARIA
Impiana Private Villas Cemagi Impiana Private Villas Cemagi is a gorgeous villa enclave set on the glistening black sand beach of Cemagi - just to the north of Seminyak and Berawa. This very generous one hectare property hosts only six exclusive, beach-front villas, ranging from one to six bedrooms. Built in the renowned architectural "Bali style”, each one features Balinese doorways, Palimanan stone floors, high ceilings with alang alang roofs, spacious sitting and dining areas, romantic four poster beds with billowing mosquito nets and indoor/ outdoor bathrooms. Impiana’s new five star property takes it to the next level of luxury with landscaped gardens, a tennis court, an 18 meter infinity pool, billiard table, yoga, cooking classes and horse riding along the beach at sunrise. There really isn’t a better place to stay. www.impianacemagi.com
SOUL SANCTUARIES Soul Sanctuaries recently re-launched with a range of exclusive health and wellbeing holidays across Asia. This luxury travel company was formed in 2012 to offer customised yoga, fitness, and detox holidays around the region, and they have now added mindfulness, stress relief, weight loss, and spiritual retreats to their roster. Guests can meditate in a sacred cave while trekking in Bhutan, practice yoga at a luxury island hideaway in Indonesia or train like an athlete in Thailand. And as if that wasn’t enticing enough, a percentage of each holiday booked goes towards helping children living in poverty in Asia. Tel: +852 8191 2707 www.soul-sanctuaries.com
KAYUMANIS SEASIDE SANUR If it’s a scenic spot for a leisurely lunch or dinner you’re after, look no further than Kayumanis Seaside Sanur. This charming venue celebrates the essence of Sanur and its strong connection to the ocean with a number of elegant areas to soak up the breezes and sea views. Dine in the cool air-conditioned interior, catch some rays on a daybed, or snag a seat on the al fresco terrace for meals under the skies and stars. With a menu that introduces guests to the diversity of Indonesian cuisine alongside classic beach club fare, this is the perfect place to while away a few hours drinking, dining, and unwinding. Tel: +62 361 6200 777 www.kayumanis.com/kayumanis-seaside-sanur/
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W BALI - SEMINYAK PRESENTS
WOOBAR BY DAY Complimentary pool access Chill eclectic beats Cocktails, tapas Unmatchable views
WOOBAR OPEN DAILY 10AM - LATE For reservations +62 361 4738 106 b&f.wbali@whotels.com ©2016 Marriott International, Inc. All Rights Reserved. W and its logos are the trademarks of Marriott International, Inc., or its affiliates.
starfishbloorestaurant.com
GET HIGH OVER UBUD The Chedi Club is now offering a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to see Bali from a bird’s eye view with their new hot-air balloon experience. This is the only ballooning experience available on the island, and the first such initiative launched by a resort. Three times a day, guests can climb into the wicker basket and soar 50-metres above the rice paddies and forests whilst soaking up views of Mount Agung. The tethered flights are scheduled at dawn, sunset, and just after the moon rises, and each can hold up to two adults and two children with a certified pilot. The final flight of the day also includes dinner for two. Get in while you can, because the flights are only on offer until the end of November. Tel: +62 361 975 685 www.ghmhotels.com/en/tanah-gajah
BIASA’S LATEST COLLECTION Each season, BIASA presents unique styles that transcend time and trends. The latest collection is inspired by dolce far niente, the art of basking in sheer indulgent relaxation. The colour palette mirrors the African Sahara landscape with rich tones ranging from golden camel beige to earthy orange, hues of glittering sand, and the rich blues of garments worn by the Tuareg people. Women can luxuriate in soft, natural fabrics with free flowing shapes and artisanal techniques like fringe work,and handmade block prints, while men can sport simple shapes like 50’s inspired short-sleeves or go a bit bolder with the ever-loved Hawaiian shirt. Tel: +62 361 730 3088 www.biasagroup.com
WEEKEND ESCAPE AT ANVAYA Reward yourself after a hard week of work with the Weekend Escape Package at The ANVAYA Beach Resort Bali. This exclusive deal includes a two-night stay in a deluxe room just steps from Bali’s famous Kuta Beach, daily breakfast for two at Kunyit Restaurant, a 60-minute Urut Bali Aga Massage at Sakanti Spa for two people, daily refreshments from the in-room minibar, return airport transfers and complimentary late check-out until 3pm. Guests can also enjoy fab facilities like the well-stocked wine cellar, swimming pool, Kids Club, soothing spa, meeting rooms, state-of-theart ballroom, and in-house fitness room. Tel: +62 361 759 991 www.theanvayabali.com
BEACHFRONT BEAUTIES Looking for a sweet seaside getaway? Nilamani Hotels has not one, but three beachfront properties to suit all types. The Camakila Legian Bali sits on a 500-metre stretch of sand along the legendary Legian beach and offers four-star comfort in the midst of some of South Bali’s most happening restaurants, bars, and cafes. The Sakala serves up pure luxury with romantic suites and villas along the white sands of Tanjung Benoa, and the Tanjung Benoa Beach Resort is an oceanfront playground for all ages with access to tropical gardens, water sports, and sublime seafood restaurants. Tel: +62 361 775 170 www.nilamanihotels.com 40
the right stuff.
SUMBA BLACK JADE IDR 3.500.000 www.bambusee.com sun shorts idr 1.000.000 www.thefranksland.com
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top: John Hardy Asli Classic Chain Link Silver Necklace - IDR 36.174.000; john Hardy Asli Classic Chain Link Silver Earring - IDR 7.176.800 www.johnhardy.com above: Barrettes available in Tamarind & Rosewood; Chanangs available in Tamarind & Rosewood www. sayadesigns.com
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left: A Water Bottle For Our Time right: the jacket idr 1.450; tge tshirt idr 575.00
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www.stfp.co.uk www.mauricioalpizar.com
Relaxation Bubble Bath - 300ml; relaxation massage oil - 150ml; black volcanic sand natural soap -125gr; black volcanic sand natural soap -25gr
shirt: bjorn canggu tee - 420k; short: floyd short - 680k. available in sand, army, navy colors (28-34).
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www.sensatia.com
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INDOOR | OUTDOOR | CUSTOM
Hospitality and residential furniture since 1989
www.warisan.com
Your oasis
in bustling
seminYak, bali
offering services from the heart
Jl. Kayu Aya, Seminyak Beach Bali 80361, Indonesia theseminyak.com
T. + 62 361 730 814 info@theseminyak.com
The Seminyak Beach Resort & Spa
culture vulture
image maker Gianluca Fellini and his one man outfit bluedreamescapes travels the world with his camera to seek out new vibes for conscious brands. we caught him between planes.
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beach bum.
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culture vulture gentlemen ...
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Gianluca, first off, where are you from and how did you grow up? I am from Italy, and I grew up in a small city called Rimini on the east coast, three hours south of Venice. And when did imagery become part of your life? Both photography and video came into my life through a love of freedom and travel. Photography about 14 years ago and video about 10 years ago. Tell us about Blue Dream Escape? I was tired of living in a city, and I was looking for a commercial outlet that would set me free from living in a specific place. My idea was that brands that loved my style and current location could simply send me their goods and I would use them to create content, either as photographs or video. I saw that it would cut the cost of production and bring a freshness to their products. How do you marry brands to your creative vision? Lately I have been more into 'conscious' brands, if this is the correct word ... projects that allow me to send out a message that resonates with my inner state. How hard is it in today’s world to make images that truly stand out? Really I have no idea! All I know is that more people are educated about images and beauty than ever before, thanks to social media. All I can do is love the images I make. I work on the idea that if I love them then so will others. How scheduled is your time? You seem to wander the world pretty freely. (We see on your website that you use the quote 'the shortest path to one’s self first leads around the world’. In fact this is my credo ... it's what allows me to be who I am today. I believe freedom is the most precious
element in life and I truly believe it allows me to grow continuously, and with that so does the quality of my work. What are the narratives that tend to repeat in your work? I think a love of beauty and light when they are united to the specific landscape I am in. That and a massive love and respect for our planet and of life itself. My narratives flow freely with the elements that surround me. What do you do when you’re not shooting? Mostly I spend time in the water. I love surfing, and the ocean is my biggest master. Also I love practicing music and yoga, I am a trained yoga propagator. I also love having people around when they come with their sparkle. I love laughter and eating and great sex! I guess we all do, if we are honest. When did Bali become part of your life, and how long do you spend on the island, generally? Bali was the place I visited the first time I ever took a plane and flew out of Italy, when I was 21 years old. So I think of Bali as part of my life ... the lifestyle, the culture, the possibilities ... they are very familiar to me. I came here with the idea of healing myself and taking back control of my life on my terms ... and she provides! I decided to move here full time last year. What are the trends that you see coming through in branding images, now that the hipster vibe has started to wane? I think the new trends are nomadic ... living a nomadic life allows for change and for a mix of different styles, colours and textures. Representing the world, in its totality. We are understanding more and more that there are no borders. We are one.
What’s next for Blue Dream Escape? More and more conscious work, environmental work, social work, I want to tell stories that can inspire change. And I want to live freely and love life. I am about to shoot a documentary about a world soccer champion, an exquisite story. He had to go through many difficulties in life, like all of us perhaps, but he beat them to become a great player and now he is giving back by helping with social change. He is working with an organization in Bulgaria to help children change their lives ... they live in the sewers under the city, mostly because it's too cold above ground in the winter. Parada, the organisation, helps them to rediscover life through the circus. It's wild. Sounds incredible. And finally, who is the most interesting client you have worked with? The most interesting? They are always yet to come. www.bluedreamescape.com
gianluca.
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sneak peaks
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culture vulture
nightmoves.
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people Senegalese fashionista Badara Ndiaye is nearly seven feet tall with a heart and outlook to match. photo: oscar munar.
from basketball court to catwalk: badara official.
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Badara, you were born in Senegal? What was early life like for you? Yes, I was born in Kaolack, Senegal. I was just the shy, quiet kid who wanted to stay away from the spotlight due to my popular parents, especially my father who is an actor and a women`s rights activist. In my early teenage years, I became taller than most people around me; my friends, my teachers, my parents . . . like most teens who happen to be tall, I felt a bit out of place because I found myself mixing more with adults than with other teens, something I learned to appreciate later on in life. You stand at two meters 11cm … all we can say is, wow! But being so tall must have had its downs and well as ups? Anything and everything has its ups and downs. I won’t even mention the ups because we can imagine what they are, but one of the main disadvantages is that nothing is made for people of my size. This may sound unfair to some people, but sometimes you enter a place that is not 'tall proof' . . . which automatically puts me or anyone else in my circumstances at a handicap. Growing up, I was considered different and at the same time I was just like the other kids. I played most sports, even gymnastics . . . I had many friends, but also was made fun of due to my height. In many cultures and societies, people make fun of anything which is different. I was called names like 'stretch' and more, but luckily for me I had a supportive family. For other parents out there, be kind to your children because the rest of the world may not be. When did you leave Senegal, and how did that happen? I started basketball very late, at the age of 17. The main reason was that all my friends started playing basketball, and I found myself without a single friend to go play other sports with. I was left with no choice other than to start the game. On my first day on the court, the head coach of the Senegalese basketball team happened to be around, and boy was I in trouble. He wouldn't leave me alone. The fact that he was friends with my parents didn’t help. Somehow he convinced me that I should be practicing twice a day: early morning and evening. Thanks to that, I attended a few international basketball camps with some NBA players and coaches, and some division one college coaches as well. It quickly turned into me being recruited to go play basketball in the USA at the age of 21. What was it first like arriving in America, and how did you spend your time there? My first experience was certainly challenging because there I was in a new land with new customs and new social codes that I had to process and incorporate into my new life. I couldn’t even speak English at all in 2005, so go figure how my interaction was with the people around me. I quickly started taking ESL classes . . . English as a Second Language. My time was mostly spent between my studies, basketball and travels. Your life took a turn after you were injured … were you ‘discovered’ by the fashion world, or was it something that you always had in mind to do? I had micro fracture knee surgery during my senior year, after which I had to forget this "on court" dream. Then I met the late fashion photographer Prescott McDonald at a party and he invited me to do a test shoot at his studio. That was my first glimpse into the fashion world. Later on in the year 2012, I met a friend who introduced me to the world of social media through his online magazine where I was helping out as a contributor for men’s fashion. That’s how BADARAOFFICIAL was born. You’re very active on Instagram, with a strong profile. Do you consider yourself a model or a social media influencer? Thank you! I actually consider myself a Creative/Artistic Director. Almost 90 percent of content on my platform is conceptualized and directed by myself. I also do creative consulting for some of the brands that I work with. I found myself enjoying that more and more over the past two years, and I can’t wait to expand and do more all over the world.
What’s important to you in life, and what code do you live by? Integrity and respect are two codes I live by. They are simply fundamental because selfrespect and self-love dictate everything else around one’s life. How did you come to see Bali, and what has struck you about the island? I came to Bali for the first time in February 2018, and I have been back every few weeks since. I am about to complete my fourth trip to Bali in a couple of weeks. I first came to Bali to visit a hotel that is being built on Nusa Penida and fell in love with the bubbly energy and landscape that exists here. I found Bali to be a land of opportunities, based on what I have seen and the experiences I have had. The place is a creative paradise, and those who appreciate creativity in all senses will find themselves in heaven in Bali. I think almost anyone who has visited the island would agree with me. I’d love to do more work in Bali or in Indonesia in general as the “Tall Model” , and as a creative director. People say the USA is the land of opportunity, but I think that Bali is another land of opportunity with its never ending growth in hospitality, art, fashion … the list goes on. If you’re not here, where do you spend your time? Mostly between Miami, Paris, and Ligueux. How do you find clothes to fit you? I find clothes anywhere even though I am tall. My issue is that often I can’t find the right length. That has pushed me to make some of my own clothes, and I was able to develop that aspect with a sartorial design company as a design consultant. Ok here’s one for you … you’re out in the desert in a canyon late at night. It’s four hours back to the nearest town. There’s a large injured animal blocking the road …. what do you do? I know this answer is expected, but I want to believe that most people are good and would do the following: If I can transport the animal without hurting him or her, then I would. In the case that I can’t, I would call for help. What is your idea of perfect happiness? My idea of perfect happiness is that life starts with yourself. Start it within yourself and then spread it around. Which living person do you most admire? I admire anyone who strives in life. People who you look at and see that they are hard working people. That’s who I admire. On what occasion do you lie? Only if I know the truth will cause a cardiac arrest. If not, I’d say: say it like it is. If you could change one thing about yourself, what would it be? Hmmm. There are definitely things we, as people, constantly need to work on. Mine would be wanting to do everything. You just can’t do everything, and this is something I am working on. Badara, stay perfect and many thanks for your time! Thank you to The Yak team. @badaraofficial
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people
Hanalei Swan may be 11 years old but she's packed more bags and trotted the globe far beyond the wildest dreams of many adults. photo: ryerson anselmo for costes portrait.
With 36 countries down and still counting, Hanalei the artist, fashion designer, model and international speaker calls Bali home. She spreads a positive message of self-love and confidence to other kids and parents through her regular talks and her Instagram page, which has over 46,000 followers. “I am open to the idea that as a kid I can accomplish many things and through social media I can leave a mark on this world. I post about fashion and me and mom write my posts so they always include a life lesson or an inspiration,” Hanalei says. The dynamic tween believes that her parents Rhonda and Brian are responsible for her ability to recognise the epic possibilities that life offers the young. “Most kids are asked what they want to be when they grow up, but I was never asked that. I was asked what I want to do now. This question changed my perspective of what I can do and taught me that I don’t have to wait until I am 20 to become a fashion designer,” she says. Hanalei admits that being an only child offered her long hours drawing and sketching the beautiful places that she visited. But it wasn’t until the family arrived in Bali that her design skills became apparent. “I was discovered by a fashion designer from LA called Karen. We had a power out and went to stay in a hotel. My mom and dad started chatting with Karen and I fell asleep on the sofa in the restaurant. When mom asked Karen what she did for a living in Bali and she said she was a designer, apparently I
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woke up immediately and said: ‘I’m a designer, too!’ “Karen asked to see my sketch book and said my work was like nothing she had ever seen and that it should be made. It's how I got started,” she says. Rhonda and Brian built the Canggu studio as Hanalei’s creative space and they have five staff producing collections, which will soon be available through TS Stores as well as outlets in the USA and UK. Hanalei’s lines include kids' wear with funky hoodie dresses and boots that are named after Bali dogs, plus the resort collection. She has a fitness and yoga range in development. The Australian swimwear label Veve want to stock Hanalei’s resort wear and the child is making customs boots for The Beautiful Girls – the all-male hipster Australian roots band. She is also designing a piece for the ultra-glam androgynous crossdresser, Kyle Farmery. “I want to create more than a company, I want to create a movement. There is a message behind my collection and that is to inspire people to accomplish many things. With the ways of the internet, kids can make money from making a video about toys and billions of people can see it,” she says. She wants to bring kids interested in fashion and design into her studio to teach them production skills. “We can help them with the process of creating a product from the first drawing through to a finished piece.” As an international speaker, Hanalei has learned at
the knee of her mother – a motivational speaker who builds brands and is an international marketing consultant. “I run events for entrepreneurs through our Unstoppable Family business and within that is Hanalei’s Unstoppable Kids program. Hanalei devised that program. It teaches kids how to think as entrepreneurs rather than employees and we will develop it to become an online program,” Rhonda says. Hanalei started speaking at her mother’s events when she was six years old and her talks are based in fashion and art. A personal goal is to deliver a TED Talk. “We aim to teach kids how to be their best self and to live their best life possible,” Rhonda says with echoes of Oprah. Hanalei is home schooled with her business HS Styles acting as her classroom. “I have the opportunity to show Hanalei the world and to create a business. She learns accounting and payrolI. I love to work with her. She’s my favourite client,” says Rhonda. “I have been to schools in many countries but I feel that I am learning through the real world right now," Hanalei says. "I’m doing math through fashion and measuring and handling the real world issues of running a business.” Having been a catalogue model, she now eschews that world in preference of self-discovery. “I want to know who I am and I need to develop as a human with a message before returning to the industry.” The world awaits. O.S.
prodigal swan.
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people nz rugby legend byron kelleher talked to tony stanton about life post all blacks and what it meant to pull on the famous jersey. photo: jason reposar.
boy from the black stuff.
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Byron, what was it like pulling on the All Blacks jersey for the very first time? It's a privilege to represent your country in any sport, of course. A real honour. But in New Zealand, rugby and the All Blacks are a national religion. It’s what every boy and girl aspires to. So my first experience was a special one, made more so by the fact I was standing next to Jonah Lomu, the biggest legend in the game. I was so proud I never wanted to take it off. What was the road to that moment like for you? How did you grow up? It was about working hard to get results and to get ahead in life. I had to make so many sacrifices to stay on top and wear the jersey week in, week out. It was all about doing extra work to be better than my opponents. Growing up was tough but I had loving family that supported me through the journey. When did you first learn to do the Haka, and how important is Maori culture to rugby in New Zealand? In New Zealand as soon as you can stand up as a child you're taught to do the Haka. It is sacred and religious and historical – it's who we are. You used to room with Jonah, what was that like? He was a mentor to me but the early years I had to prove myself in the team, so I had to carry and do little jobs for him whenever he asked. You couldn't say no to Jonah Lomu. A very nice and humble person. Of course I have many more stories but I don’t think we should discuss those here! RIP my friend Jonah. What was a typical day like during the season? Early mornings with two to three trainings a day except match day and the day before. Regular media interviews during the week, signing sessions with the public, dinners with the major sponsors and living in hotels... and then travel by plane or bus to more training. There were the occasional beers in the changing rooms with the team after winning ... a guitar and good singalong. What was the hardest thing about being an All Black? Public expectation. And winning of course.
You travelled the world and were celebrated for the game ... who was the most interesting person you met? We met a lot of very famous people ... royalty, actors, musicians and other athletes. But the one that sticks in my mind was talking to Nelson Mandela. What would you consider the pinnacle of your rugby career while wearing the All Black shirt? I played in three rugby world cups but I really enjoyed playing against the British Lions during their tour to New Zealand and winning all three test matches – a very proud moment. Why is New Zealand so passionate about rugby? It’s our national sport and we have been the number one team in the world for 125 years. As soon as you are born in New Zealand, boy or girl, you’re given a rugby ball or an All Black jersey. We love the game. You moved to France after leaving the New Zealand squad, how did you adapt to life there? I had to learn another culture and another language so it was difficult at the beginning but I won two national French championships and was named player of the year. We also went on to win a European championship as well so it could not have been better. Toulouse was passionate and mad about rugby too. What have you been doing since retiring from the sport in 2012? I do Ambassador work for Airbus and Capgemini, some French commentating for rugby on the radio and I owned a sports bar. I lived in Monaco for about four years then decided to travel back to good old New Zealand. I love Asia too. How did Bali become part of your life? It’s a beautiful part of the world and not too far away to escape to from New Zealand during winters. I also do promotional work in Asia, so having the rugby world cup on next year in Japan I need an Asian base. Bali just ticks all the boxes. Byron, thanks for your time! @ByronKelleher
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WWW.ATLASPEARLS.COM.AU
sounds around singer deniz reno has been there and done that. twelve million downloads later she's found peace in bali. photo: oscar munar.
Dress by Authentica Wear @authetica_wear.
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Deniz, you grew up in a creative environment … your father was a sculptor from Kazakhstan, your mother too … tell us about life in your home as a child. I had quite an unorthodox upbringing. My father, Vagif Rakhmanov, is a well-respected sculptor and academic in Kazakhstan and internationally. His lifelong devotion to his sculpture and his work ethic have always inspired me. My mother, Marina Reshetnikova, is a tour de force. She is a sculptor and a respected film industry scenic artist. She is the hardest working person I know, as a mother, as a woman, as an artist. When I was little she spent every ounce of energy and every last penny she had kindling my interest and unlocking my abilities in various disciplines. One of the highlights of this year for me was hearing her name being read out in acknowledgement for her scenic contribution to the set decorating team on Guillermo Del Toro’s Shape of Water at this year’s Academy Awards. You've also worked as a scenic painter, and been recognised in various other fields … were you one of those kids who could play any instrument, make any sculpture or paint any painting? I have worked as a scenic painter and sculptor in the film industry in Toronto, Canada, for nearly eight years. Not many people are familiar with the term “scenic artist”. Scenics work under the direction of the production designer and the art director to bring their artistic visions to life, or to set, rather. This can involve anything from painting sets to producing intricate works of art and sculpture, collaborating with the prop, set dec. and costumes departments. Working in the industry seemed like a natural continuation of my upbringing as a visual artist. Back in Kazakhstan, I started painting and making little sculptures at the age of three. By the age of 10 I had participated in many solo and group shows and sold a number of my artworks to international collections. My parents had me study flute for four years and I was always singing. At the time no one had any idea what my casual passion for singing would turn into, and neither did I. When did you realise you could sing? I think I always knew that I loved music, I just didn’t think anything of it in terms of turning it into a career. Where I grew up, it was and still is widely believed that if you wish to amount to anything in any creative field you have to start honing your skills as early as at four or six years old. So I naturally thought I was going to be a visual artist and nothing else. The realization came when other people started stopping me around the ages of 12 and 14 and telling me I had a voice. Then one day my father produced a cassette tape recording from when I was a few weeks old. He said “I always said you’d be a singer!” Tell us about some of the things in your life that have shaped or affected you … whether recently or in the past. There are so many. I feel like I’ve lived nine lives. My life before coming to Canada, and then several that came after. I would say in the past, having to fight for my dreams shaped me. My journey up as a singer was full of challenges. Songwriting did not come as easy to me as painting, I had zero connections in the music industry. I had to work at it for years. Having to work multiple jobs from the age of 13, trying to believe in myself when no one else would. Being rejected over and over and over again after giving it my all and told that only one in a million people succeed in the industry I’ve chosen. But a voice inside me always said “keep going”. In terms of life-transforming experiences, you get so caught up in the race you forget that our time on this earth is limited and none of us know when we’ll leave this place or how. A year and a half ago I lost my fiancé Graham Dickinson, in a BASE wingsuit crash. When Graham died I felt like the child in me, my trust in life, my trust in people, all perished. Last year was a year of massive spiritual transformation. I thought I had life all figured out and then this hurricane hits and you’re the only one left standing and you have this choice: to slowly die inside,
poison your body or lash out at the world to ease the pain, or somehow come out of it. My dad always told me growing up, “Deniz, you’re a dragon, no matter what happens to you, you get up and you carry on.” So I made a pact with myself to rise for the both of us and carry on with all the amazing things we had planned together. We had a shared vision of helping make this world better, kinder. When you lose someone you are deeply and unconditionally in love with it breaks parts of you forever, but I believe that what remains can either be used to hurt or to heal others. I chose to use the pain as fuel to be of service to this world. You’ve worked with some big names in the music industry and your cover of Chris Isaak’s Wicked Games went viral … it all sounds very glamorous, but does it start out that way? What is your songwriting process? In 2013 I got in touch with Anton Ishutin, one of the biggest artists to come of out of Russia’s deep house scene at the time. He asked me if I wanted to do a cover of Wicked Games and we made it happen. I had recorded the vocals literally on a portable mic setup in my bedroom closet. What neither of us predicted was that on YouTube alone that cover would be streamed more than 12,000,000 times. That track ended up blowing up in Eastern Europe and all over the world. For me it led to more collaboration opportunities. I’ve most recently worked with Keys N’ Krates on a track called Something Wonderful off their new EP Cura, also with Matt Lange and many others. As in film so in music, the glamour of it all comes post-release when you’re promoting material, selling the dream so to speak, going to parties, doing interviews. But the reality of being a recording artist and what truly matters is days on end spent in the studio with a producer or sometimes by yourself, crafting the sound, writing lyrics, recording vocals. There’s nothing glamorous about the process, but it nourishes my soul like nothing else. What are you working on at the moment? I have just released a music video for my brand new single Fly on my label Taksu Records. It features incredible wingsuit flights from some of the top talent in the skydiving, wingsuit and base communities, amongst them my friends Jokke Sommer, Gabriel Lott, Carlos Pedro Briceño, and epic footage by Shams at Big Kids Cartel, Brandon Timinsky and Ruben Sabotatge. The song and video are really my show of solidarity and appreciation to anyone who’s ever followed their passion in life, lived and sacrificed believing in the beauty of their dreams. What attracted you to Bali, and what has kept you coming back? I ended up in Bali a couple of years ago by sheer accident, or so I thought. Like many who come to this island I just needed a place to heal and reset. It took me three days to fall in love with this island and a couple of weeks to meet a handful of very special people who are now dear friends of mine. The immense gratitude for the ways in which this island has helped me tap into my authentic self and the relationships it has given me cannot be put into words. Every day spent in Bali I am in awe of its rich artistic and spiritual culture. I am in awe of the Balinese people, their traditions and compassion to all who come here and all who choose to stay. Ok last bit not least … your favourite footwear? I prefer to walk barefoot, which is one of the things I absolutely loved about living in Australia for a time. It’s incredibly grounding and makes me feel more present in my body and happier in general. That being said, unless I’m in nature or on a beach you’ll most likely find me in some sort of flats, whether it be flip flops or ballerina flats. And at events I’ll always be rocking a slick pair of heels. @denizreno
www.denizreno.com
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artsake
inside the strung out world of CĂŠsar Fernandez. Photos Jemma Scott and Kane Kennar . Words Ano Mac.
string theory.
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César Fernandez is an Avilés, a city in Asturias Spain, born artist who takes a straight line and bends your mind around it. Quick with a smile and armed with a truck load of that amazing Spanish charm it is hard to believe he spends literally months of his life by himself sewing string onto canvases before coating the entire thing in fiberglass resin. The results project balance and purpose while retaining soft translucent properties overlayed with a wholly accessible beauty. In his latest installation of pieces, César set out to immerse the observer, not only into his aesthetic world but also the Bali exhibition space where he interwove his works within an installation of complex compositions of thread, creating a large and complex matrix. The Yak caught up with him for some hard and fast questions. César, can you tell us where you came up with the concept for your series ‘Linescapes’? Linescapes is a collection that I created after an intense study around the emptiness in pictorial art. In my pieces I try to work with the simplicity of the line to generate a varied and complex structure, a series of paintings and installations that encompass an interactive geometric space where the viewer is left to interpret their own experience. Abstract and highly suggestive linear compositions enhance the use of line, and the concept of 'less is more' works perfectly in this exercise in combining the four elements predominantly used in my work – point, line, geometry and space. This has allowed me to elaborate and expand on my style and identity, managed with great care in modeling a plastic and aesthetic artistic expression. At the same time, a primordial part of my art is negative space; the presence of emptiness is the basis that unifies my work, which is why the installations are such a major part. To connect the viewer on a three-dimensional level creates rhythm and harmony between my pieces and the audience.
impasto textures and generate a whole range of tonalities. Recently you created these spiderweb installations as part of the exhibition ... why do you do that? My installations are the continuation of my work, a very important part as it carries the art to another dimension. When I’m working on a canvas I usually only work two-dimensionally, however with the combination of the installation, the three dimensional use of space completely changes the perspective. At different standpoints the viewer is open to ambiguous interpretations of the art and are able to interact and connect through that space as well as the art pieces themselves. I always try to work with this abstract visual perception in each of my exhibitions, as it offers a place to interact and engage. Personally I find it a lot more exciting than looking at a canvas screwed to the wall. I want to offer a greater interaction where each viewer experience is unique. You have been in Bali now on and off for quite a few years, has that helped you as an artist? The creative culture encompassing this island, and Canggu in particular, makes it an incredible place to work and grow as an artist. Bali is special in that it has a
Who, or what, are the major influences behind your work? I have a strong predilection for architectural figureheads like Frei Otto and Antoni Gaudí, these timeless figures are largely responsible for the direction my work is heading. However inspiration comes to me from many other aspects of my life, such as seeing my wife design her clothing collections, visiting cities, museums and meeting new artists, everything influences the way in which I work. One of the most beautiful things about being an artist is that you never stop learning, with this open state of mind we are able to seek, and find, inspiration in everyday banalities. Can you describe the process for completing a canvas? The process behind completing a canvas is, well … it's complicated! To really break it down though, I suppose I divide it into three parts – idea, creation and finish. Conceptualising the idea is the most complicated part, it can take weeks until I’m satisfied with the ideal concept and idea. The creation of my work is solely the production. The fine threads that I hand-sew to the canvas definitely takes time, for me it has almost become a form of meditation. Depending on how the flattened geometric shape and the idea behind the work flow together, I’m usually sewing between a period of two weeks or two months. To complete a piece … just thinking about it gives me a migraine, no doubt it is the most technical part of my work. This is where I take fiberglass resin and catalyst adding them together, in the same way surfboard and boat builders do. If the amount of catalyst is at a higher percentage then there is a chemical and heat reaction with the resin and the picture burns and becomes unusable. However if the dosage is too small the resin does not crystallize, also making it unusable. There is a small threshold between the ideal aesthetic and complete ruin; after two months of hard work I pray for the latter! In turn, this process is incredible to work with and witness, it is the resin itself that allows me to create
young, open-minded and creative community that really encourages you to push boundaries. I am very lucky that I have been able to surround myself with people I admire, such as the Gorrow family, Andrew Wellman, Crille Rask, Javier Soto and a long list of artists who, in their different disciplines, do incredible things. Where is your art taking you? My art has enabled me to travel and experience a respectable variety of places, meet a lot of creatively unique people and most importantly, it has taught me to relax and enjoy this absolute rollercoaster of life. There is no money that can buy this kind of experience, fellow artists will know what I mean … to be so immersed in an idea or project and then come out the other end months down the track with a finished piece is the most rewarding part. Thanks for your time César. www.cesar-fernandez.com 67
brands
Warisan's new blood ONDY SWEETING meets matthew bater, the new man at famous furniture brand warisan. photo dasha almazova.
Matthew Bater has a timber business card that does not bend and crumple and bears the name of an inspiring Bali success story: Warisan. The former London city financial whizz is now the third tine – as a director and shareholder – in the finely tuned fork that is among Bali’s bestknown exports. While Matthew maybe new to Bali, he has been with the outfit for years. He opened a Warisan Studio in Cape Town more than 10 years ago and in 2015 he opened Warisan Outdoor in South Africa. In fact, he went down the Warisan rabbit hole in 2005 while on holiday. “The first time I came to Bali, I visited the Jimbaran showroom and bought some furniture and that ended up with me opening the studio in Cape Town, which is where I moved to after leaving London’s financial sector where I had worked for 16 years,” says Matthew. It didn’t take long for his role in South Africa to expand to the UK and include international marketing for the company that is virtually a household name in Italy and has an arresting roll call of exclusive retreats and hotels that posses their collections – including Four Seasons, Rosewood, Six Senses and Kudado in the Maldives. Warisan founding partners Gianpaolo Nogara and Lucio Brissolese have been steering the company to great success over the past 29 years and now with consuming passions for boat building and surfing, they have long been whispering about stepping back from the daily running of the company. “Last year Gianpaolo asked if I would consider moving to Bali to learn the management and move in to a role that takes the pressure off him and Lucio. It’s now a three-way partnership,” he says. While Warisan is a much-loved Bali brand, it is the rapidly developing global hotel business that recognizes and embraces the outstanding quality and elegant designs of quality wooden furniture crafted in Indonesia. “Furniture export is a very important industry in Indonesia so we will have to meet increasing demand and mechandise our Java factory. Every year fewer people are entering the traditional furniture making business, which is typically handed down from generation to generation in Indonesia. Now children are less likely to follow their father’s craft as they have in the past. However, Warisan will never be fully mechanized but there is only so far we can grow and keep our range hand made,” said Matthew. The answer to this conundrum is to explore the computerization of the wood cutting stage of the process, which will compliment Warisan’s
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trademark hand finished style. It will be both traditional and efficient for growth. It hasn’t taken long for Matthew to take root in the business. In just a year he has contributed to expanding the Banguwangi factory in East Java by 10,000 square metres creating a space the size of three and a half rugby fields. A further 5,000 square metres has been added in Dalung which comprises the head office and the original factory. A total of 500 people work across the operation, including the landmark showroom on Jalan Raya Kerobokan near Seminyak. This growth underpins Matthew’s plans to push Warisan deeper into its core market of the hospitality business globally. He has targeted the USA, the Caribbean, the Maldives and the emerging markets of South America. At a time when China is mass-producing furniture very cheaply, the team at Warisan is dedicated to their long-held philosophy of using only sustainable wood. This unrivalled quality has attracted the interest of the rich and affluent from Indonesia to India with the company increasingly in demand to furnish the mansions of Mumbai and the apartments of the Jakarta elite – not to mention elegant expats. The days of furniture buyers looking only for price point have all but disappeared with buyers from Asia more interested in excellent craftsmanship and sophistication – qualities that Warisan has in abundance. When he is not growing factories and developing global business Matthew is reading about his new home. “I’ve really been leaning about the culture of Bali and Java to understand how to interact with our workforce and have a handle on the local mores of the different social systems. It’s good to embrace local cultures and the sooner the better.” He is supporting his investigations by learning Bahasa Indonesia twice a week in his office as well as enjoying the odd game of golf, the fabulous restaurants and outstanding lifestyle of our island paradise. As with many choices that Gianpaolo Nogara and Lucio Brissolese have made since launching Warisan in 1989, time and consideration is key to their success and securing the skills of Matthew Bater aligns with that tradition. “I really have bought into the ethos of the company in more ways than one.” www.warisan.com
matthew bater.
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tropicola. beach club.
hottest new beach club in bali! tropicola.info
open now. seminyak.
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winning by a nose.
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gava fox gets to grips with the facts about fibbing.
THE great American writer Mark Twain is frequently credited with saying “a lie can travel half way around the world while the truth is putting on its shoes”. Ironically, he never said it. Metaphors regarding the momentum of mendacity and the tardiness of truth have a long literary history, but the real author of the expression is said by academics to be the English satirist Jonathan Swift, writing in 1710 that “falsehood flies, and the truth comes limping after it”. The truth is everyone lies, but why do we do it, when do we do it, how did we learn to do it, and is it ever acceptable? Biblical literalists will tell you the first lie was spoken by Satan in the slithering guise of a serpent in the Garden of Eden when he told Eve “ye shall not surely die” if she ate the forbidden fruit. It wasn’t instant death that God had threatened, but rather the loss of immortality, and Satan’s forked tongue meant from that day forward humans would know the difference between good and evil - a loss of innocence that would result in millennia of conflict. One of the 10 commandments specifically addresses lying - thou shalt not bear false witness against thy neighbour - yet the Bible contains dozens of examples of mendacity in both the old and new testaments including, non-believers say, the biggest of all: Mary’s claim of immaculate conception. In the 5th Century, Saint Augustine of Hippo argued that every lie was a sin and every sin should be avoided. Even lies told with the best of intentions were still sins. Augustine, of course, lived in the Dark Ages, the period of economic, demographic and cultural stagnation that followed the fall of the Roman Empire. A lie could apparently be detected by touching someone’s tongue to a red-hot poker; if it stuck and burned, it was a lie, but if the accused escaped unscathed, they were telling the truth. There is some veracity to that test. Science has shown that we are likely to become dry-mouthed when lying, but telling the truth provides the saliva
necessary to insulate against being scorched. It was during the Renaissance that people first began to become more realistic about what it takes to get on in the world. Lies became part of the fabric of society. As regional kingdoms proliferated, they attracted obsequious courts that served only to flatter the monarchy in the hope of royal reward. The system is best summed up by the Hans Christian Andersen story “The Emperor’s New Clothes” about a pair of tailors who promise his imperial highness a suit of clothing that will be invisible to anyone unfit for their position. Of course they dress the Emperor with nothing, but as he walks naked before his subjects they nevertheless lie by telling him he is wearing the most beautiful outfit ever seen. It is only when a child shouts “but he is wearing no clothes at all” that the charade is exposed. The Emperor still continues his procession, fearful that admitting the truth would show him to be an unfit ruler. In the movie “The Invention of Lying”, British comedian Ricky Gervais presents a world where the idea of even the most innocent white lie doesn’t exist. It makes for cruel watching. When the protaganist asks his blind date “how are you”, she replies “disappointed that you are short and fat with a snub nose”. An advert for Coca-Cola proclaims “it has too much sugar and can give you diabetes”, while a tramp holds a sign reading “I’m lazy and alcoholic and will spend your money on booze”. Then the character played by Gervais has an epiphany and learns to lie, with tragicomic results. At first he lies only for good. He convinces his dying mother that paradise awaits, he talks a neighbor out of suicide, and stops a friend from being arrested.
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But things escalate rapidly. Spotting a beautiful women walking in the street, he tells her “the world will end unless you have sex with me”. “Oh my goodness,” she replies, “do we have time to find a motel or should be do it right here on the pavement?” The denouement comes when Gervais, a very public atheist in real life, has his character invent religion as he grows more comfortable in lying. As he teaches others to follow suit, social cohesion breaks down and it is only when everyone learns to lie that normalcy is restored. Bella DePaulo, one of the world’s leading experts on the subject, says most adults lie at least one or two times a day. There are basically four reasons why people do it - to protect themselves, to promote themselves, to affect others (either in a good or bad way) or for pathological (disease-caused) reasons. Most lies, DePaulo says, are intended to protect the feelings of others. For example, as every man knows, there is only one correct answer to the question “does my bum look big in this”? While anyone would consider this a very minor fib, studies by DePaulo and colleagues suggest most people at some point will tell one or more serious lies, such as denying an illicit relationship or making false claims on a job application. In his scholarly essay “Why we lie: The science behind our deceit”, author Yudhijit Bhattacharjee says the universal talent for deception shouldn’t surprise us. Researchers speculate that lying as a behavior arose not long after the emergence of language and the ability to manipulate others without using physical force likely conferred an advantage in the competition for resources and mates, akin to the evolution of deceptive strategies in the animal kingdom, such as camouflage. He quotes Sissela Bok, an ethicist at Harvard University and one of the most prominent thinkers on the subject: “Lying is so easy compared to other ways of gaining power. It’s much easier to lie in order to get somebody’s money or wealth than to hit them over the head or rob a bank.” But while everyone lies, not everyone is good at it. According to experts, liars frequently give themselves away with visual or verbal clues. If someone touches their face - particularly their nose there is a good chance they are not telling the truth. If someone moves objects between you while you’re talking, they are likely hiding something. If someone uses contractions less often than normal in speech - saying “I did not” instead of “I didn’t” - they are likely trying to make you believe a falsehood. In fact, less than five percent of people are what you might call accomplished liars, but that doesn’t mean we aren’t taken in by many more untruths. The reality is human nature means we tend to believe what people tell us. “If you say to someone, ‘I am a pilot,’ they are not sitting there thinking: ‘Maybe he’s not a pilot’,” wrote Frank Abagnale, whose talent for impersonation and forgery was the inspiration for the Leonardo Dicaprio movie “Catch Me If You Can”. “People are not expecting lies, people are not searching for lies. A lot of the time, people want to hear what they are hearing.”
As an idea for a still-to-be-published book called “The Complete Kant” - a reference to the eponymous philosopher’s claim that every lie was morally wrong - Welshman Cathal Morrow spent a year in which he claimed he never lied once. This, of course, proved difficult - telling his four-year-old there was no Santa Claus was particularly tough - but overall his relationships with family and friends improved significantly, he said. Scientists say that children learn to lie between the ages of two and five, and while the behavior may infuriate parents, it is actually a sign that their developmental growth - like walking and talking - is on track. Studies suggest that people lie most between the ages of nine and 17 often creating absurd whoppers - but truthfulness increases with age as our actual achievements catch up to our boasts. It’s those who never stop lying that become sociopaths, but a surprising number of them live fully-functioning lives - usually as politicians. America’s first president, George Washington, is famously mythologized as saying “I cannot tell a lie ... I did it with my little hatchet” when confronted by his father about damage done to a cherry tree. The White House, however, has long been the birthplace of scandalous lies. Richard Nixon resigned in disgrace in the ’70s as a result of the Watergate scandal when he denied knowledge of the affair by proclaiming “I am not a crook”. Two decades later, Bill Clinton narrowly survived impeachment despite blatantly lying about a relationship with White House intern Monica Lewinsky. “I did not have sexual relations with that women,” Clinton said emphatically, although later he admitted that his definition of sex did not include getting a blow job, as their genitals had not made contact. And then we come to Donald Trump. Perhaps no-one in modern history lies as glibly, easily, frequently and shamelessly as the current U.S. President. The Washington Post has a fact-check team dedicated to the task of chronicling Trump’s mendacity, and since his inauguration on January 20 last year has recorded an astonishing 4,229 lies, half-truths, misrepresentations and exaggerations - at a rate of nearly eight a day. Trump started his presidency with a lie, insisting his inauguration crowd was the biggest in history when actually it was dwarfed by Barack Obama’s. On July 5 alone, Trump told 79 lies - either in speaking or via Twitter, his favorite medium - while June was his most productive month with some 532 lies in 30 days. “I study liars and I’ve never seen one like President Trump,” wrote DePaulo in The Washington Post. “He tells far more lies, and far more cruel ones, than ordinary people do. “By telling so many lies, and so many that are mean-spirited, Trump is violating some of the most fundamental norms of human social interaction and human decency. Many of the rest of us, in turn, have abandoned a norm of our own - we no longer give Trump the benefit of the doubt that we usually give so readily.” If the bible was the origin of lying, perhaps Trump - and all of us - would be best served by reading from the Gospel of John, chapter 8, verse 32: “The truth shall set you free.”
life in trumpton.
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travel
Surfers are often pigeonholed as a rather one dimensional lot. When the surf goes flat the common perception is that they slip into the Deus Temple’s backyard to sit with their mates and sink an entire afternoon's supply of Bintangs ... before stumbling out into the night to sample the myriad evening distractions Canggu has to offer these days. And I’d be a liar if I said it's never happened. Recently though, with the bleak forecast of no waves for a full three days, Harrison Roach and Matt Cuddihy asked if they could borrow a couple of the pushbikes we have here at the Temple. Curiosity got the upper hand and we said we’d join them, loading up one of our trucks and heading for the hills, up into the cooler climes of the mountains where we were to forget all about belting back beers, at least for a little while. Straight up, conventional
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we are not. No one would ever mistake us as coming from the serious side of bicycling. For one thing, the bikes that we were riding, flaunting single speeds, definitely aren’t your normal multi-geared road pushies ‑ built more in the vein of the old Dutch bikes you see plying their way about Amsterdam, simple steel frames with single speed ratchet cogs, hand pull brakes mounted on swept back handlebars and the old flying V hard leather seats ‑ anything but comfortable after more than a couple of hours. The other item to set us aside from the serious art of bicycling was a paucity of lycra. Shorts and tees. Sneakers and caps. No point in changing your attire just to go for a ride in the mountains, right? Who would do that? We rang our friends at Villa Puri Tupai to see if there was a vacancy, and we were in luck. Their compound, a beautiful
collection of Javanese and Balinese traditional houses, is just far enough south of the bludgeoning Ubud centre so as not to be caught up in what Ubud has inescapably become ‑ a swarming mini metropolis of outlet stores, market stalls, new restaurants and alternative cafes plied, packed and crammed with tourist coaches and hire cars then puddle splashed against a backdrop of yoga and meditation set in the breathtaking Balinese vistas that drew them all up there in the first place. No, that wasn’t what we were there for. We could have stayed on the coastal plains for that. We wanted to roam around the fringes, we were seeking that Bali that you see on old postcards, steeped in tradition and smothered in simplicity. Places where green is the predominant colour and you have the time and disposition to define a couple of thousand variations.
wheels in motion.
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travel ringside.
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Clockwise from top left: Matt Cuddihy; boys from the green stuff; Harrison Roach; uphill climb; Forest gump; Villa Tupai pool; night moves.
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We wanted to be in valleys that grabbed onto the morning mist until well after 10. Afternoons where you chased the last rays of the day in a desperate game of hide and seek down the hill. There was method to our madness in our lad’s choice of vehicles, for all of us, this was a calm away from the storm. A chance to get off grid and between you and us, we found it. Though not initially. First, we went up behind villages and down random tracks that were either badly broken road that would have played hell with our tyres or carried a constant stream of powered vehicles, both of which would have thwarted our efforts to find our own peddling paradise. We made a couple of phone calls and got onto the crew at Bali Road Bike. They brought that last missing piece of the puzzle to the table - local knowledge. Theirs was the good oil on where to go, without which we’d have found ourselves stranded amongst the back streets. Once you get away from the coast, and the hustle and bustle of the built-up areas, it is amazing to see how quickly life slows down. The days took on an almost instantaneous predictability. We rode, we walked, we talked and we laughed ourselves silly in that close friend puerile fun way. We found a few of those hidden gems of uncrowded corners of Bali life. We took the time to stop, look out in awe over the fertile tropical carpet laid in front
of us and appreciate the moment before we slungshot ourselves down the hills. It wasn’t plain sailing, and more than once we nearly came a cropper with wheel slips along perilous road edges, equipment malfunctions (like the one that rendered Harrison’s bike brakeless). But we washed these off in fits of more childish humour cajoling and coaxing each other on and on into more and more perilous positions. There’s a lot to be said for pumping pedals uphill and gliding down beautifully smooth roads. For one thing, it is a bloody excellent cardio work out. We came across steep sections of uphill that forced us to dismount and allowed us the opportunity to reacquaint ourselves with the power of matey conversations. It took on a liquid form passing back and forth peppered with laughter and voices raised in jest that echoed against the auditorium walls of the jungle that towered about and embraced us. We also found it a nice change to switch out our fast but, let’s face it, rather loud four stroke motorbikes, our goto mode of transport when we are in Bali, for the light clicking sound thrown off of the single speed cog on the rear axle and the more sedate and finite speed that comes with bicycles. The feeling of the wind is still there, though on a bicycle it mingles with the light perspiration built up along the uphill exertion to create
a cooling effect, an undershirt AC, maintaining our equilibriums and leaving us open to the thrill of working hard for simple rewards. Is it just as sweet as being astride a powered engine? Sometimes. Nights we welcomed like an absent lover. We embraced them in their entirety. Fatigued from long days in the saddle we shrugged off the ordeal in the stylishly simple yet sumptuously comfortable confines of the Puri Tupai Villa compound. Delicious, nourishing feasts filled with fresh produce grown in the gardens melted the aches in our stomachs before one by one we retired ... but not before grabbing something from the rather unexpected treat of a little library sprinkled with gems such as D.H Lawrence and even a Jack Kerouac. As expected though, none of us were too many pages in before silently drifting off. You’ve heard the saying before, what goes up, must come down. We can’t defy gravity and we're no different. Our time ran out and the magic of the past three days disappeared in the mere 40 minutes it took to drive back to our base in Canggu. We left empty handed, but not empty headed, we couldn’t. We’d all experienced something that left us yearning for more. www.puri-tupai.com www.baliroadbike.com
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Zadeh from Escalier. Dress by Maryam Nassir
Necklace Farah Khan.
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photographey oscar munar styling angie anggoro mua Ariya Gunawan model zohara even assistant frogo martinez
yak fashion
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yak fashion white paillet jacket and chiffon pants by Farah Khan. earings from Les biches.
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undercover reversible top. necklace by Farah Khan. leggings, H&M.
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yak fashion red slip on and raincoat byLes biches. necklace farah khan.
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silk velvet dress by undercover from escalier.
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yak fashion safron chemise by namu, skirt by farah khan, earrings from les biches, python orange sandals stylist's own.
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multi colour paillet shirt by farah khan, skirt by maryam nassir zadeh
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JOIN THE FUN 10 AM - 7 PM
EXPERIENCE BALI’S COOLEST NEW BEACH CLUB LOCATED ON THE BEAUTIFUL PANDAWA BEACH NO COVER CHARGE / NO MINIMUM SPEND QUIRKY. FUN. PLAYFUL
Jl.Pantai Pandawa, Bali 80361
ministry of interiors
pika&PASCAL Ondy Sweeting visits the stunning home of pika and pascal chevillot. photos: dasha almazova.
unique in every way.
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Bali is an amazing playground for those with a penchant for fine aesthetics and a sybaritic lifestyle. Restaurateurs Pika and Pascal Chevillot have distilled myriad cultural threads to create a Kerobokan villa that is part art museum, part travelogue and a superbly comfortable home. The couple have transposed more than a few design features from their award winning restaurant Sardine, which is a stylish open-walled affair overlooking the kitchen gardens. “We like to take advantage of the natural environment and make the most out of the indoor/outdoor living that we have. The house is similar to Sardine in the way that both are designed to allow us to live in a beautiful garden all year round,” says Pika. A vast wooden joglo is the main living space and a dining table well suited for big family meals sits in the centre with plush couches to the side where a wall houses tribal PNG canoe paddles. The kitchen is minimalist with a red Boretti fridge – complete with a wine cooler – and matching custom cylindrical extractors above a sleek cooker that is a simple line of four burners. Beyond this room is an expansive back of house and quail hatchery. A massive antique Javanese carved timber wall can be pulled across the front of the kitchen as a wall. “I studied stage design in Buenos Aries but moved to the Caribbean where there are not many theatres," said Pika. "I turned to restaurant and nightclub design. It’s all connected because I am setting a stage and making a playground for a purpose. I have done the same here but it had to be comfortable and practical with a nice ambiance,” she says. Three suite-size bedrooms and Pika’s art studio dot the grounds as individual buildings. A traditional Javanese gladak house, with the original paint work and the most beautiful roof tiles that required restoration before the space was livable. Glass has replaced large parts of the timber walls to add light to the living space that flows into a modern bedroom extension. The gladak is guarded by an ancestor statue from Flores, which the couple bought in Bali in 2002, shipped to their then home in LA where it resided for seven years and then returned to Bali where a it spent six years in a crate until it found its appropriate place by Pascal’s mothers residence. Texture and colour changes are provided by stonewalls quarried from different types of stones. “The stonewalls I did with three Javanese workers and we used five types of stone –
all very different. I made a composition of the stones on the ground and changed them around like a puzzle until I was happy. Then it went up and I’d change a few more stones around. We liked it so much that we used it throughout the house.” The master bedroom is really another joglo with a bar, lounge and a walled-in aquarium. Evidence of Pika’s painterly talent is on the walls alongside a fine collection that includes an original Quint on a concrete wall and photography from Nacivet. There is also a small mirror disco ball and a huge massage chair. The Joglo is fused to a big contemporary bedroom with bright yellow plantation louvers on the windows, a massive TV and a huge bed. The walls are cupboard space, in the fine minimalist tradition of hiding the detritus of life. The leafy view is serene and includes the sculpture garden on the roof of the studio. The dressing rooms and bathroom are chic with a stunning stand-alone steel covered tub and double outdoor showers. Double steel sinks are set on a bench made of bone marquetry by Ecole Des Beaux-Arts in Paris trained Etienne De Souza. This is Pika’s favourite space. “I love our room and spend most of my time here. It is where we catch up and chat, watch movies together and relax. We designed the whole property to create spaces with privacy in mind. Pascal’s mother lives with us and the kids come and go.” The guest room is beneath the master suite and has decorative tribal posts from Kalimantan and Timor woodcarvings as wardrobe doors. The bathroom bench is enameled lava stone set against the raw concrete of the exposed retaining wall, which is hung with a natty backlit mirror. Perfect for entertaining, the villa has big gardens planted with fruiting pomegranate and coconut palms on miniature bluffs and ridges landscaped into the garden, which has ponds and a citrus grove of Myanmar lemons. The long rectangular pool has an al fresco dining space under an opulent canopy of flower-strewn vines and grapes. A large outdoor Jacuzzi is fenced by series of antique wooden horses that Pika repurposed into carousel ponies. “Like most things here, I found them myself but the horses came from Jl. Kunti II. I put holes through them and added the poles. While sipping wine with her two sweet Rottweiler’s Vodka and Bella loping around her feet, Pika admits the couple has acquired a unique collection. “There is a story attached to everything here but nothing is particularly expensive. It is simple and casual and things can get dirty. It is a house that is lived in and enjoyed.” 93
venting in a villa
blue is the colour at noku.
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Noku Beach House is set to disrupt the status quo of ultra luxe villas and the design lists dedicated to them globally. It’s time for a rewrite boys. The extraordinary multi faceted six-bedroom ocean front villa has a private spa, waterfront pool and a tennis court. Noku is opulent six star luxury for the new jet set where dialing ‘four’ for room service is unwarranted.
By Ondy Sweeting a beach front estate fitting for our times.
All 24/7 whims are met by the unrivalled corps of staff trained in the art of high service by leading villa management and marketing organization Elite Havens, which was selected exclusively to handle the property. In fact, Elite Havens secured award-winning designer Alex Zabotto-Bentley to bring to life this important refurbishment that is integral to the famous landscape of Seminyak beach Zabotto-Bentley has taken a Seminyak shell and created arguably Bali’s hottest new villa … make that estate. Moroccan flourishes are set into a contemporary Zen domain. The house is to be the first villa in the Noku brand, which will span the globe starting with Bali. “We want our guests to walk in and really connect with the space and make it their own,” says Alex, who caught up with The Yak while tending the villa before its launch back in August. Noku has a curated colour palette of light turquoise and blue and is apparent from the woven deck chairs, love swings through to soft furnishings. Even the portable roll-out tennis court – which is a full-size court – is in camouflage colours of blue on blue with a drizzle of grey. This is the Noku colour scheme that will be used in each new property as they blossom. The massive swinging entrance door of Noku Beach House is ancient teak carved with
geometric patterns that breeze throughout the house – check the master bedroom wall and drinks coasters for the repetition of the design. A sleek pond and a jigsaw like sculptural wall of moveable pieces of polished teak reminiscent of Buddhist spinning prayer wheel walls border the minimalist entry hall. It offers a tantalizing peak into the spa room and oasis pool. The spa is no ordinary massage destination but a full service retreat where serious facials, IV nutrition through to Botox and fillers can be booked. It is designed based on the riad’s of Marrakesh with a central tiled pool in Noku colours, hanging gardens and walls dotted with Moorish alcoves. At night a movie screen drops across the spa window and sets the scene for a movie night. Noku’s immense living spaces are oriented towards the sea, which acts as the final frontier of the estate. Three massive folding glass doors create an indoor/outdoors living for which Bali is famed. Deeply comfortable couches, tables made of 20-million-year-old fossilized wood, occasional tables, lighting, a dining table for 14 people and a full service bar of Italian travertine and all custom designed by Alex and his team. Everything from the teapots, serving plates and bowls are artisanal made in a small village in Bali, which took 18 months to appropriately fill the cupboards. The garden is a rambling tropical oasis with a long column swimming pool – a shallow end hosts 20 sun bathers – the rest stretches the length of the garden to the beachfront. Extensive lawns house the tennis courts – or a game of football. Swinging lovers chairs dot the garden, which has its own kitchen and dining area crafted from a 10-year-old Borneo pier with a charismatic patina from a century of dents from boats landing. The top floor is a cool rooftop space with a big sea view.
The art collection includes original Matt Neville photography and dazzling out sized tribal beads and shell work from Papua. More than 50,000 plants were gardened into the grounds over 6 months. The retro Tropicalismo lighting popularized in Rio in the 1970s turns the garden mint green at night. Six contemporary and elegant bedrooms with beautiful bathrooms are on the top floor and have every luxury from marshmallow towels to cloud-like bed. Balconies embrace the views – water or kitchen gardens. In fact, the bathrooms have been herringbone tiled with tens of thousands of tiny finger tiles that are white in the master bedrooms and become progressively darker in the rear rooms creating a lush and leafy Ubud ambience. Toiletries are bespoke and a zero plastic policy has Noku water in glass bottles. Kimonos, headscarves and sarongs are of a unique Noku batik design. A private bridal suite is set back from the bedrooms and has a private terrace and direct access to stairs to a long rooftop garden, which makes a perfect space for nuptials overlooking the ocean. The Noku élan includes a smack down Void sound system, a private radio station spinning curated tunes from the some of the world’s most celebrated DJ’s. The wine room is well stocked and the staff fabulously trained. The two kitchens are verging on commercial and will deliver cocktails at 2am or a health tonic at 6am. Gluten free, keto, vegan, paleo and haute cuisine are all catered for. Noku Beach House can stage events from ten to more than 200 people ensuring it will be a sensation when it comes to fun in the sun for the awesome and affluent. www.nokubeachhouse.com
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R O P P'S LANDING Paul Ropp makes it grander in a simpler form of living space Photos: Ryerson Anselmo for Costes Portrait words: Ondy Sweeting
upstairs with paul.
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New York-born, Bali-based artist, icon and fashion designer Paul Ropp has devolved from living in expansive tropical mansions to a contemporary take on a Chinese shop house. Since empty nesting a few years ago he has downsized his living environment to a curated Jimbaran ‘landing strip’ purpose built for a life style of globe trotting, creating and seeking inspiration. “I used to have very big, very expensive villas and I was travelling a lot and my kids had finished university and were travelling themselves. It was time to rethink my environment,” he says. Paul connected to the Chinese notion of the shop house – the simple economy of living at the back and above one’s own commercial enterprise. Like the famous shop houses of Singapore, Penang, Phuket and Shanghai – Paul Ropp now lives above his Jimbaran store. “The Chinese have the business bringing in money while they live upstairs. It’s a Chinese concept and it works. We’ve improvised this concept in Jimbaran and we’ve done the same in Thailand with two bedrooms at the best beach in Phuket,” says Paul. Life with an army of staff also ended with the arrival of a simplified version of life. “There were seven people looking after me, but I decided to end that way of living. I decided to let go of that concept of living - which I had enjoyed a lot for a very long time. I moved toward a new environment – like the Chinese have been doing for centuries,” he says. While few, if any Chinese shop houses have a beautiful garden and swimming pool, Paul does acknowledge that his Jimbaran and Phuket pads are perhaps a little
more sophisticated than the digs of your standard Chinese shopkeeper. “My house is completely different to anything that you have ever seen. It is a unique example of taking creativity into home furnishings but not as furniture, but as art,” says Paul. As Bali’s most vibrant designer creating dresses of dreamy colours in fabrics sourced in India and stitched with sparkling beads and delicate buttons, his home mirrors both the man and his mania “My environment is my art form. I design everything, absolutely everything and my team puts it together for me. I make it from little off cuts of fabrics from my collections. It’s like how I dress my collection of dolls,” the designer points to a series of feminine effigies clad in whimsical fashion. “My home is a gallery full of work by talented artists. Artists I have grown up with, such as the great Dutch artist Nico Vrielink and the wonderful Davina Stephens. I have access to these artists as friends and their work adorns my walls,” he says. Location is a big consideration for such a man on the move. “I have lived in Bali for more than 40 years and always moved to neighbourhoods where there were no foreigners. Originally it was Legian but then foreigners came and I moved on. But when the kids moved on it was important to be near an airport,’ he says.
what a doll.
He even calls his apartments ‘landing strips’. “I need a place to land – the plane lands in the airport and my body lands in my home. My home is the landing strip. shop.paulropp.com 97
ministry of interiors life is for living at ropp's jimbaran base.
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Tropicola – forever Summer.
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Think ice blocks and coconut oil, summer songs and blue-tiled pools. Yes, the da maria crew has done it again, this time turning our heads beachside with a splash of colour and a patina of style at Tropicola, writes Sarah douglas.
There is no doubt that the multi-layered beach club and restaurant, decked out in brilliant white with bold primary colours, is going to set heads turning. The inspiration is a little bit Hollywood, a splash of Miami, shaken with some Acapulco and stirred with burst of Bondi. Centre stage is the deep blue-tiled pool with staggered bleachers dressed in stripes. It’s easy to imagine taking residence here, sipping cocktails and ordering from the all-day grazing menu, soaking up the rays with friends while the super cool soundtracks sets the mood for days of sunshine and good times. The art of making something look blissfully simple is a skill this crew has mastered. Years of thought, research, travel, planning and design have preceded this anticipated opening. Every element, from the sounds to the sizzling outdoor grill, the meticulously pre-mixed blends of curious and creative cocktails to the carefully curated food is managed in minutiae. This ensures that the customer never sees or feels the back end, it flows as it was designed to flow. “We do what we love, create places we want to hang out in and we make the food we want to eat. That’s the recipe,” explains Group Executive Chef Steve Skelly, who headed up one of Sydney’s most revered seafood restaurants, The Pier in Rose Bay, before coming to Bali and joining the group. Here he plays to his strengths with a menu that sings with fresh seafood dishes, a nod to Mexico, and the best of beach club classics. “We travelled extensively through amazing beach clubs in Miami, Acapulco, Palm Springs, Tulum and Playa Del Carmen and then wove all our favourite elements into a "drink and dine" beach club unique to Bali,” continues Skelly. Tropicola rises above the sandy beachside like a giant lifeguard tower. With layered decks and outdoor kitchens, bars and bleachers, verandahs and sparkling white woodwork like something out of Malibu or the Hamptons. Primary colours in blue, yellow and red evoke memories of seaside piers and ocean
pools. It’s nostalgic yet fresh and playing in the background the history of these boys from Oz peeps through with tones from the days of public pools and kiosk classics. The menu is loaded with fresh seafood, raw dishes, crisp salads and classics like burgers and hot dogs that are as fresh as the decks are white. “We’ve played with this menu to make it a lot fresher and healthier with organic dishes, crunchy salads and wood-fired grills," says Skelly. "Amongst it all are spit-roasted pork stuffed into fresh tacos; ‘dude food’ but decked out with loads of fresh vegetables and spiced sauces. It’s classic but fresher and lighter,” the British-born chef says. Skelly explains his menu is going for light flavours with tartares, ceviches, prawn cocktails, cold and warm salads, hand-picked vegetables for the plant-based plates, licked by the grill and dressed to dance. Fresh bread, brioche and bagels, from Skelly’s own Farine bakery, will add tang and interest to burgers and hot dogs while a range of dressings from sambals to jalapeño salsas are the perfect pick me up. The feeling throughout is bold and contemporary, from the menu, to the latininspired soundtracks and the cocktails. With Beverage Director Denny Deluca Del Paso curating the drinks and Argentinian DJ Juan Ego creating a ‘left of field Tropicola’ soundtrack, the venue is designed as a space that flows from day into night without missing a beat. Speaking of beats, Ego brings a ray of sunshine into his tunes; no house, just a lot of good vibe music. From NYC clubs to Big Day Out, and sunset sessions in Tulum, DJ Juan will set the tone for a day at the pool. As the sun edges closer to the sea, the music follows the sun, finally settling into a post sunset dinner mood. Beverage Director Denny plans to play on classics with cocktails like the Tropicolada, using jackfruit in place of pineapple, the Arak N Roll, a blend of the finest Bali arak mixed with Kintamani coffee, rum, and tequila-based cocktails loaded with exotic fruit and spices alongside a cooling mix of coolades, freezies, shakes and jugs of icy cocktails.
There are lots of fresh, fruity flavours that are a perfect match for sunny days, choose the non-alcoholic version, or add a chaser. Not to be underplayed is the fabulous beachfront location. Nestled along the golden shoreline, along from the W, Alila Seminyak and stretching beyond to La Laguna and, rumour has it, a Bali-based Café Del Mar, Batu Belig beach is long, wild and unspoiled. Staff decked out in red and white, the open kitchen hums with energy, the bars are loaded up with vibrant fruit and even the bathrooms are special; with a green and white theme scented with fresh peppermint. This is just phase one. Where food, music, good times, pool moments and cocktails all merge into one experience. Open daily from 11am, lunch is served from 12-3pm, dinner from 7pm until midnight and in between, an all-day grazing menu is available. “We know that sunset is going to be peak time for us. Times when we expect to be pumping, we want to keep it simple but it will be fresh, creative and delicious. During more traditional dining times we can really focus on the quality of the food,” concludes Skelly. Phase two will be an upstairs restaurant, and phase three will culminate in a multi-storey hotel offering affordable seaside luxury. With designer James Brown behind this project, who also designed Motel Mexicola and Bondi’s Bucket List, there is a confidence in the design that resides in the human experience. It isn’t all show – there is a lot of substance. The design avoids any awkward moments and wherever you choose to sit, on loungers, at tables on the decks or surrounding the pool, you still enjoy views across the ocean and an experience that is as cool as it gets, by design. Tropicola is what it feels like. www.tropicola.info
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colours of the playground at tropicola.
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ibizainbali
sarah douglas arrives with reservations – and leaves wanting to make one. welcome to a new classic in jimbaran.
Ibiza in Bali blazes a bright white trail to a beach rarely visited by tourists and delivers a fresh and fantastic destination to Bali’s hedonistic world of food, wine and azure sea. Located on Kelan beach in Jimbaran, the fresh and intimate beach club and restaurant is so unexpected it takes a moment to adjust. A bumpy road with no name leads to what is essentially a fishing village, at the airport end of Jimbaran beach. The detailed concrete façade gives nothing away but once you walk through the door, the view changes dramatically. A sea of white and turquoise leads the eye to one of the prettiest seascapes Bali has to offer. The restaurant interior is scattered with tables surrounded by white chairs and deeply cushioned sofas, a long bar looks out towards the bay. Terraced steps lead to the sandy beach, interrupted by a turquoise pool that reflects the stunning colours of the water beyond it. This is a beach club and restaurant where you can swim in a beautiful clear, calm sea, and its just steps away from the sun deck. “This is where Paris Hilton chose to swim when she came to Bali,” announced Franklin Firdaus, part of the Ibiza in Bali team and owner of fashion label Franksland. I can see why she chose to swim here; I just wonder how she discovered it? Despite my decades on the island, this delightful slice of beach has eluded me. Owned by a group of Spanish friends, mostly from Barcelona, with ties to the UNESCO protected Balearic island Ibiza and its world famous mega clubs, are behind the venue. The chic design and the obvious commitment to music – the DJ booth overlooks the entire venue – says a lot about their style and background, but it is the food that wins out. “A beach club should first of all be on a beach, there should be food, drinks and good music. In the early days of Ibiza people went to the beach to swim but once music, food and drinks were introduced they found themselves staying on,” explains one of the partners Alejandro (Alex). “They would eat some lunch, share some wine, the music gets them dancing, cocktails follow and before you know it day turns into night and you’re still there, dancing in your bathing suit, making friends and it turns into a party. This is what we want at Ibiza in Bali,” he continues. Joan is another founding partner. A development consultant, he discovered this little slice of Bali that even residents didn’t know existed while here on a stopover. “I was staying in Jimbaran and I realized there was nowhere to really go, to eat lunch, to hang out, to swim. At night there is very little to choose besides the seafood barbecue restaurants. There was nowhere to get a nice cocktail or have a dinner outside of the five star hotels,” he tells me. He stumbled across this spot and convinced a few like-minded friends to get involved. It’s quickly apparent that these guys are no slouches when it comes to the business of beach clubs. Ibiza in Bali was created and it is both unexpected and refreshingly different. Despite its many levels, Ibiza in Bali is intimate by beach club standards. It comfortably holds 150 people on the decks, in the restaurant and on the mezzanine floor. A rooftop bar will host events and parties overlooking all of Jimbaran Bay and the graceful aircraft taking off and landing. The chef Ruben Orti is also from Barcelona and he has jumped hurdles to create food that tastes so authentic you can feel Spain in every bite. Ortiz’ illustrious career to date includes Four Seasons in Ibiza. The restless, talented chef is constantly tweaking his classic 106
dishes, working on new dishes, rarely satisfied and striving for perfection, according to his partners. We start with tapas; four dishes that are a clear indication of how Ortiz interprets traditional dishes with confidence and skill. Patatas Bravas, a standard on every Spanish menu, is served as bite-sized potato gems, tender inside and crisped outside, with garlic aioli topped with a hint of spicy tomato sauce. The flavours are bold and the different textures make this take on the classic a winner. The croquettes, another standard, were anything but. The creamy chicken filling is breaded and fried perfectly. With not a hint of oiliness, everything perfectly seasoned; you could eat these all day. We also try a crisp vegetable salad, shredded like coleslaw but without the cloying, thick mayonnaise. Instead it’s lightly dressed and topped with dehydrated tomato skins. It’s modern but it’s Spanish through and through. The fourth tapa is the Spanish take on a Russian salad, Ensalada Rusa, sandwiched between two thinly sliced croutons. These are simple, rustic dishes that are perfectly executed. The menu offers three versions of paella; the popular version with seafood and chicken; Arroz Negro, a black rice version with squid ink; and a simple Aroyo seafood, which we were served. Brought to the table in a classic paellera, it’s a picture of rustic perfection. This paella is pared back to the basics; the rice is baked in the large flat dish over a flame. A flavourful seafood stock is poured over and left to absorb, producing a sticky, caramelised base. Jewel-like pieces of fresh prawn and octopus stud the plump, gleaming rice to create a dark, earthy and delicious dish. Clams are added at the last minute to open and cook just before serving. Unlike so many paella, this one takes 12-15 minutes to cook and wow, if you haven’t fallen in love with the food of Spain, this will convert you. “In Spain beach clubs and bars are for everyone, and we want to have a mixed crowd here. It’s not designed to be stiff or pretentious, we want to bring the spirit of the old Ibiza here where everyone is welcome to come and have a good time,” continues Alex. The partners hope to create a destination at Kelan. Perfectly located between Kuta and Nusa Dua, it’s an easy trip from Sanur along the bypass and perfect for those coming down from Uluwatu. In the spirit of the Spanish they plan to open early and close late; long lunches, late dinners followed by a party, or a quick stop for a glorious sunset and tapas. It’s designed for all day grazing, swims in the sea or the glass-fronted pool, lazing on day beds, dancing through sunset and chilling out with the family. As this is the first in what they aim to be other destinations clubs across Asia, they are happy to let the customers dictate what flows and what doesn’t. “We chose the name for the associations,” explain Joan, “for many people Ibiza is more than a place, it’s a lifestyle.” Before leaving the desserts arrive on two wooden plates crusted with caramelised sugar, one a take on the classic crème Catalan, the other a pineapple jelly floating in a flavoured custard. I arrived with reservations, I left wanting to make one. Without any expectations, Ibiza in Bali, a little white jewel sitting on a calm turquoise beach with a flotilla of colourful fishing boats on the horizon, looks like a slice of Bali mingled with the free spirit of Ibiza. www.ibizainbali.com
it's all you need.
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sugarsand brings a cool new creative vibe to one of bali's most evolving beachfront stretches.
There’s a cool new sound bringing a fresh groove to the energetic beachfront in Seminyak between Dhyana Pura and Double Six. Over the tinny din of beach bar hi-fi systems and competing tunes of guitar groups entertaining the sunset crowds, there's a sophisticated beat in the background and a whole new way of looking at this iconic seafront. SugarSand is a beachside bar and restaurant that brings a much-needed taste of sophistication to this hectic stretch. It’s a sigh of relief, an intelligent voice, a place to play, eat and drink that feels as though it was always there … and yet is so brand new that we didn’t even know we needed it until it arrived. Located on the beach, in front of the stunning designer Hotel Indigo, SugarSand shares a chef and an entrance with the five star resort but carves out its own identity on the beachfront between Gado Gado and Double Six. SugarSand eschews the beach club tag, rather it is a restaurant and bar, a two-level space with a beautiful oceanfront pool that flows through a range of experiences, effortlessly and beautifully. This is a very intelligent venue. And with two well-known hospitality professionals running the show, the team has been chosen as carefully as the design. SugarSand's dream team spent four years working together at Potato Head. Michele Griffo is a familiar face to many, having also served his time as part of the opening team of Mrs Sippy before heading up to Sunday’s Beach Club at The Ungasan. As General Manager he brings his Italian flair and meticulous eye for detail to SugarSand. Helping to curate the experience is his former
colleague, Lady FLiC, one of the island’s bestknown DJs and one of the few females behind the decks. Here FLiC expands her role to encompass music, art, evolving creative spaces and sets the tone for what looks set to become one of Seminyak’s most intimate lounges by night. “It’s great having someone I can trust who is taking care of the music, the art, the artists and creating events so that I can focus on making this an amazing experience for our guests,” explains Griffo. For FLiC the chance to expand her role beyond music is a welcome opportunity. Indeed for each of them, the chance to work together again was a factor in taking on this project. The spaces at SugarSand, designed by Singaporean company EDG, flow effortlessly from one to the other, each with its own identity but connected. The colours are warm, inspired by elements of Japan and Bali, with shots of colour that pop throughout the venue. The design team took on the project from the initial drawings through to the furniture, the plates, cups, even the taps behind the bar, giving it a flow that makes absolute sense. SugarSand is a series of intimate spaces and open areas that invite the curious to explore and can easily transport guests from day to night without having to leave. Beautifully designed changing rooms with showers and lockers are located beneath, so moving from the pool to the dining room or upstairs to the lounge bar is a matter of bringing a change of clothes, and an attitude. The all day menus are based on Nikkei cuisine, the popular food of Peru that combines the best of Japanese food with Latin flair. Downstairs a
robata grill adds flame to flavour while upstairs, a cold kitchen rolls up sushi and slices sashimi often piqued for flavour with Tiger's Milk, the citrusbased marinade used in ceviche. Australian Chef Nic Philip’s fresh seaside menu sites excellence as its inspiration. Lunch and dinner menus will be more structured and the venue plans to introduce breakfast after soft opening. From morning to late night the bars will shine with contemporary cocktails, coolers and all things refreshing and different from master mixologist, Singaporean Sufian Mahmoud. With FliC curating the creative experience, the excellent sound system will carry a soulful tune by day from ambient to jazz, from rare groove to soulful techno, from jazzy hip hop to disco by night. Her brief includes art and installations, with constantly evolving shows from pop up art events to animation featured on the screens inside. With a pool deck overlooking the ocean, a beach deck, an upstairs terrace, seated restaurant spaces, an upstairs lounge, and a bar that converts at night to an intimate cocktail venue with regular music events, SugarSand brings a new sense of style to Seminyak Beach. The warm, intimate spaces pop with colour and are awash with natural light by day. Moody conceptual lighting in the evenings creates a space that invites you to come in, sit down and make yourself at home. It feels good to be here, it speaks volumes about great design and the professional, passionate team that infuses it with warmth and creativity. www.sugarsandbali.com
@sugarsand.bali
Spaces flow effortlessly from one to the other, each with its own identity yet still connected.
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beach club carry on courtesy of roosterfish.
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Roosterfish Beach Club – part of the fun of a trip to renaissance resort in uluwatu – joins the fray on south Bali’s beautiful Bukit peninsular. Ondy Sweeting explores.
As part of the opulent Renaissance Bali Uluwatu Resort & Spa – and a mere 10 minutes away by the hotel’s shuttle – beach club Roosterfish doesn’t miss a beat when it comes to delivering breezy dishes, snacks and icy drinks. The menu is not enormous but fun and well matched to the location with plenty of fresh seafood, wood-fired pizza, juicy burgers, interesting salads plus a smattering of Balinese favourites. Much more than beers come in a bucket at Roosterfish including fresh king prawns, spiced chicken and onion wings and three variation of chips: sea salt, cheese and chilli. Seated in this big open-air wooden joglo watching locals go fishing in their timber outrigger boats may trigger travelling foodies to want to explore the flavours of Balinese cuisine. They are well catered for with the classic roast piggy dish babi guling with all the trappings prepared daily as well as ayam pelalah – chilli and lime shredded chicken. The Roosterfish platter is also a great starting point to taste local food, with half a chicken spiced in the local betutu that uses tamarind, turmeric, ginger, galangal and candlenut, alongside a banana leaf baked baby snapper. Diners can also go Indonesian-light and hit the beef rendang grilled sandwich with tomato and onion served on sourdough for a unique cultural fusion. The crafted salads are crisp and fresh and include a Balinese lawar variety of local long green beans chopped with bean sprouts, shallots, chili and lime. The roasted pumpkin salad comes dressed with marinated feta cheese, spicy rocket with crushed cashew nuts and drizzled with balsamic vinegar. The beach club’s 10-inch pizza selection avoids the banal by offering a unique pizza of chilli crab with coriander and mint topping; spiced lamb with onion, feta and mint cucumber yoghurt or the more traditional Italian meatball with parmesan, blistered tomatoes and fresh oregano. The charcuterie board, packed with Parma ham, duck rillette, salami, cornichons, pickled onion, mustard and grilled bread, is a classic. Ceviche fiends have a choice of yellow fin tuna or red snapper, which is line -caught and whipped up with avocado, coriander, tomato, chilli and balanced with fresh citrus juice. The five desserts deliver a lush caramelized banana split and rich chocolate mousse but the most impressive number is the Roosterfish take on the Indonesia treat called es campur – shaved ice. This Asian delicacy includes lots of shaved ice topped with syrup such a vanilla sauce, coco pandan and sweetened
Carnation condensed milk. Then throw in strawberries, grass jelly, cassava, sago pearls or jackfruit. The club serves up tasty chilled cocktails, American sized signature drinks, ice filled buckets of cold beers and a range of freshly pressed fruit and veggie juices. The wine list has Moet Chandon brut by the bottle and a tight but pleasing selection of reds from Australia, France, California plus a German Riesling. In fact, the liquid delights list is long and features multiple types of caffeine packed quaffers from cold brew Bootstrap coffee to an espresso martini. There are iced teas, ciders, bubble tea for the kids, local beer plus Indonesia’s Stark craft beer and a full bar of spirits that registers 10 types of vodka and six different tequila from the standard Jose Cuervo Gold to the fabulous Patron Silver. Unusually, the bar is stocked with Campari, Pimms, Ricard, Sambuca and Pernod, which will keep our European friends happy. The upshot is that the cocktails are impressive with a broad range from the classic Cosmo and Planters Punch through to some cool inventions like the Roosterfish Bowl that has light and dark rum, fresh pineapple juice, orange juice, grenadine, lime and curaçao and is meant to share. Expect to be constantly distracted by the point blank ocean views from this perfectly placed but barely there building. Roosterfish is a few metres from the golden sands of Pandawa Beach – which has enormous statues of Balinese Hindu deities recessed into caves cut in to the cliff face at ground level. This bizarre outburst of creativity is so spectacular that it makes a trip to Roosterfish a must. For those motivated to burn off some of that energy, Roosterfish has plenty to keep people buzzing with a big pool full of huge bean bags, a swim-up bar, sunbeds, a sandy beach volleyball court near the restaurant and a grassy lawn flanked by those ubiquitous Balinese pavilions called bales. Take a walk down the beach – or have a body surf on the gentle waves, which up until recently has been among Bali’s best kept secrets and a go-to place for the owners and vacationers staying in the millionaire row villas at the top of the hill. Or, for those who are looking for a more private experience, Roosterfish can also host gatherings, private parties and weddings. Enjoy! www.roosterfishbeachclub.com
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top: radisson blu. this image: renaissance.
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ne w and notable a clutch of new hotels open in bali to bring more choice in the high stakes world of resort luxury, writes ondy sweeting.
Aryaduta bali The Aryaduta Bali boasts a spanking location for urbanites and families who long to be downtown and beachside. Jaded suburbs and sleepy countryside be gone and welcome to southern Bali with buzzing restaurants, street side bars, colourful markets, nightclubs, air conditioned malls, cinemas and some of Indonesia’s best activities. Aryaduta has four styles of accommodation covering many bases including family friendly interconnecting rooms and balconies that open to the green tropical gardens. Even the smallest rooms are 40 square metres and can easily fit a family of two parents and two young kids. Thoughtful touches include international power terminals and sarongs and slippers in every room plus the standard IPTV and satellite TV. They also have plenty of in-room storage for suitcases. Superior rooms mostly face the famous Kartika Plaza Street while deluxe rooms are mainly interconnected and have a sofa and oversized bathrooms. The Executive rooms are 70 square metres with a sitting area and dedicated workspace. The award winning Waterbom Park – which is an incredibly serene place with beautiful gardens and no booming music – is minutes away, as is Segara beach. The popular Henry’s Grill and Bar is an Australian and New Zealand-style BBQ with tender steaks and crisp salads, home style sausages that are all cooked to perfection on ‘The Beast’ – Henry’s wood-fired grill. Aryaduta also has a well-chilled sports bar with an old school pinball machine, a snooker table and lounges as well as a constant feed of international sports on mounted TV’s. A great city hotel in the South Kuta style. www.aryaduta.com DevinSky Hotel seminyak The name nails it for this devine sky hotel that sits in Bali’s hip urban centre of Petitenget that borders Seminyak. The rooftop pool and social space is home to the Blu Sky restaurant-bar-lounge where electric blue and white pool side pods overlook town to the horizon and catch the famous Bali sunset in all of the its colours. The restaurant has wrap around windows to make the most of this aerie and dining spills outdoors on to timber decks and the long bar. The zone is sheltered from sun and rain by large white shade sails attached to a central tent that delivers a fun circus vibe. The rooftop retreat is also home to regular movies plus cooking, fruit carving, flower offerings and, rather uniquely, nail art demonstrations.
The rooms in this four-star hotel are spacious and combine fresh and modern styling with every comfort including rain showers and marble bathrooms. Ten Superior rooms cover a full 30 square metres while the 38 deluxe rooms swing in at 42 square metres, some with stage beds. The suites are the size of a standard Paris apartment and have a whirlpool separate from the bathroom. DevinSky reserves two quadruple rooms with four single beds in a row. The beautiful Petitenget Balinese Hindu temple, shopping malls, dozens of restaurants, bars and nightclubs including the iconic gay bar Bali Joe Bar and its sensational drag shows are all within easy reach. DenvinSky’s Nari Spa has a relaxing Aquatonic signature treatment that uses heated water for a jet massage triggering relaxation and a release of muscle tension. The aim is to improve blood circulation so it’s a hot treatment for jetlag. DevinSky has meeting rooms, a small library, gym and a business centre plus a tours, transport and rental office. www.devinskyhotel.com Hotel Indigo Bali Seminyak Beach Expect arrested movement upon entering the lobby of this dazzling design destination with museum style creations from the stacked wooden ceiling to the hand-crafted artifacts. Indigo has perfected fusing daily Balinese design with avantgarde panache. Every niche, chair, painting, lamp, cushion and cup is an artful replica of uniquely Balinese pieces including the ubiquitous tajen chicken cage, bokor boxes, parasols and ceremonial paraphernalia plus those fabulous fabrics and metal krupuk – or cracker – containers. This is love at first sight and an artisan collection that demands more than a 24-hour stay. The architectural use of black volcanic stone is taken to a heavenly level and set against lush green gardens and subak sari-style water features. High art photography is on display beside master carvings and an interior design that deserves a standing ovation. Quirky and fabulously chic it is and the five-star luxury is seamless. Accommodation encompasses Balinese neighbourhood themes that have an epic cocktail corner – complete with shaker, citrus press and oranges – and bespoke ceramics plus a cloud-like bed. However, the final word in opulence is the two-bedroom pool villas, which are set out like a local banjar – or village council – over 800 square metres. Indigo facilities are equally stellar with three
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pools, including a Secret Garden pool, and a beachfront lagoon, a health club with fitness programs and equipment that includes TRX and weightlifting while classes embrace yoga and martial arts. The ritzy Sava Spa has 10 treatments rooms, a nail bar and a reflexology lounge. Dining at Indigo’s Salon Bar is the go-to place for a trek through organic produce and beautifully crafted menu of contemporary dining with Indonesian flourishes. The four course degustation menu – paired with unique and heavenly cocktails that use aged rum, cacao nibs, wild honey and vodka – is a perfect starting point. Crushed scallop mixed with smoked coconut and bengkuang – or white yam – with a light sambal is lightly briny and an alluring hint of what is to come. All fish is caught daily by traditional fisher folk on Nusa Penida so it changes every 24 hours and delivers unrivalled freshness and quality – two words that aptly describe the entire 4.7-hectare that are Hotel Indigo. www.seminyak.hotelindigo.com Renaissance Bali Uluwatu Resort & Spa Big skies, epic views and an imposing reception wildly flaunts every perspective of a grand position and regal services. This is the Renaissance Uluwatu. Everything about this addition to the Marriot chain speaks of large-scale style overlaid with cool contemporary lines. Guests can throw clay and learn pottery from a master in an air-conditioned studio complete with potter’s wheels after enjoying a buffet breakfast that delivers dishes from a delicate dim sum to a hearty full English at Clay Craft restaurant – the resort's all day diner. With two immense salt-water infinity pools – which have a great stash of pool toys and a separate kids pool – the resort has 207 rooms and a village atmosphere with the restaurants, bars and pools as the town square. Guests can enjoy that big ocean view from a glassed-in 24/7 gym, the pool bar, the restaurants or over an indulgent afternoon tea and cocktails from R Bar in the palatial open lobby. The accommodation is cutting edge contemporary with minimalist lines and every luxury. The huge bathrooms have freestanding tubs and rain showers with jungle and water views. Artfully designed interiors harness Indonesia’s famous ikatweave patterns on tiles and textiles and Balinese statements fuse wooden floors, bamboo and butter soft bedding with sculptural features. The Double Ikat restaurant is designed with each table surrounded by a huge loom complete with threads and an Indonesian dining experience delivering superb renditions of local cuisine. Every dish can be curated for kids as half size and half price dishes and spiced to order. It also has a cooking studio teaching the techniques and secrets of Indonesian cuisine. Roosterfish Beach Club is the resort’s beach club that is a 10 minute shuttle away at the beautiful Pandawa beach. See our review on page …. www.marriott.com/hotels/travel/dpsuw-renaissance-bali-uluwatu-resort-and-spa/ Radisson Blu Bali Uluwatu There is a special wow factor when you arrive at this beautifully intimate hotel – particularly if you arrive at dusk when flames dance upon a reflection pond that borders the discreet reception. As the first Radisson Blu hotel to open in Indonesia, the location in Pecatu, Uluwatu, is a 10-minute walk to the beach and the views from the hotel capture
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the blue colour spectrum of breaking waves and the surfers who ride the ocean. Radisson Blu is a design dope's paradise with timber lines, rope accents and a layout that echoes a traditional Balinese village blueprint. The serene public spaces and guest rooms honour the ornate design of Balinese homes. Interiors are influenced by the detailed patterning of Bali’s ancient ‘lontar’ texts, which contain the traditional laws of Balinese life from religion to crafts that are finely inscribed onto folding manuscripts of dried leaves and string. Tenganan village – home the Bali’s first people - in the north-east Karangasem regency is the reference for the building materials and methods used to create Radisson Blu. It is no surprise the property is owned by an architect. The guest rooms have private balconies on the upper floors and private sundecks on the lower levels while 14 gorgeous suites with huge rooftop terraces have glorious views of the sea or the pool and verdant gardens. Filini restaurant is a casual Italian diner with an excellent wine stock, delicious dishes and fresh pizza but be warned . . . the ‘small plates’ are very generous. All-day dining is at Artichoke, which does a good pork belly, and poolside snacks and quenchers come from Choka cafe. Pop the kids into the Eureka Kids Club and make use of the fragrant spa and gym or jump on to the revolving daily activities that include yoga classes. www.radissonblu.com Saranam Resort and Spa In the spirit of Europe’s grand mountain resorts and spa retreats, Saranam Resort has a tone of old world glamour. Soaring above the incredible views in the lush hills of Bedugul, Saranam delivers dreamy views and is a place to take a breather and enjoy nature at its finest. With a choice of luxury suites, deluxe suites or hilltop chalets, every room is beautifully appointed with wide verandahs that overlook the grounds that cascade down the hill, mirroring the surrounding rice terraces. While the temptation is to just relax and enjoy the scenery beside its riverside pool there is also a fitness centre, an elevated yoga and meditation room, spa plus a dining room and poolside café. Bedugul itself has a lot to offer the curious traveller and even the adventurous. The half-day trip to the Ulan Danu Temple on Lake Beratan is well worth taking. The ancient Hindu temple sits on the lake surrounded by mountains and colourful ceremonies are common. Check out the growers market where the aroma of heady spices fills the air and fresh fruit and vegetables are piled high. Bedugul is home to Bali’s Botanical gardens, with orchid gardens, a cactus forest and the popular Treetops Adventure Park, where everyone becomes a kid again flying from tree to tree on zip lines. The kiddy friendly ‘squirrel’ run is just a metre off the ground while the adrenaline-packed SAS style Black circuit is not for the feint hearted. Bali Handara Golf Course is jaw-droppingly beautiful and a challenging course for lovers of the game. Lakes, farms, mountains and rice fields surround Bedugul, it’s a truly beautiful part of Bali and leaving the resort is not easy as the crisp mountain air and luxury triggers a yogic calm. www.saranamresort.com
Clockwise from top left: aryaduta rooftop; hotel indigo; devinsky; henry's at aryaduta.
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karmawellness sarah douglas visits karma kandara's latest spa options for a hedonistic and healthy lifestyle.
The inclinator that transports you down to Karma Beach is, to my mind, one of the world’s best mood enhancers. Edging closer to the clear blue water that laps the beach, looking out towards the endless horizon … pure bliss. Karma Kandara is defined by its spectacular location. Spacious pool villas are spread out across the cliff face, surrounded by coral walls. Stone paths meander through beautiful gardens and glimpses of the expansive views frame the experience. Karma has always had a strong commitment to wellness, with a fabulous curated spa, a range of wellness packages, yoga and fitness programs, visiting health practitioners offering different modalities and optional health-based menus.
Next in line is a Sleep Ceremony Ritual to help sleep deprived guests unwind and sleep soundly. As well, a ‘Screen Escape’ to help counter issues caused from staring at a screen all day and includes a warm ginger compress to reduce inflammation in the body. It goes without saying that all ingredients used are local, organic and sustainable.
The Cliff Spa has a philosophy of welcoming guests from outside the resort, with people regularly coming from all over the island to enjoy their signature spa. With spectacular views across the ocean and windows that open wide to welcome the breeze, it’s one of the most geographically blessed spas on the island.
Unique are the Segara Spa Safaris where your customized experiences are cocreated with the team of bodyworkers. Feeling overloaded? Your Spa Safari may include an organic sea salt scrub with warm coconut oil to cleanse the skin followed by a divine massage delivered slowly to calm the nervous system. Suffering sleep issues? The team will curate a series of therapies to help ground your body and mind to help you rebalance. The packages include a choice of Mediterranean or wellness lunch starting at Rp 2.250.000++.
Down the newly renovated hill tram is Karma Beach, the resort’s private beach and the location of the new Segara Ocean Spa, fashioned from a rustic reclaimed fisherman’s hut. Here guests experience sea-infused cures and treatments, soothed by the sounds of lapping waves.
You start your three-hour Sunrise Segara with a one hour yoga or meditation session in the seaside yoga bale, followed by a choice of facial hydration, scrubs and facials followed by a sublime super food breakfast, free flow coconut water, juices and herbal teas.
Nearby, the seaside Yoga Bale, offers complimentary yoga, as well as tai chi, pilates and muay thai Boxing classes, as well as Sunday Thai Massages in the open-air bale overlooking the ocean. Taking a class, whether it is yoga or pilates or something more active, with the sound and the spray of the waves just a few feet away is as close as you get to a natural high.
Sunday has always been a popular day to enjoy the amazing Karma Beach, cool off in the clear blue sea at one of the island’s best swimming beaches, enjoy an international line up of DJ’s playing beach-inspired tunes and indulge in their Mediterranean-based menus together with a great wine and cocktail list.
The introduction of Sunday Wellness invites guests coming to Karma Beach to enhance their day of relaxation, world class DJs and cuisine, by taking advantage of complimentary yoga and optional healthy brunch. Muay thai boxing, tai chi, pilates and TRX classes are also available at an additional cost. Sunday Wellness begins with one hour of yoga flow from 9-10am. This is followed by a plant-based vegan brunch complete with wellness tonics. The package costs Rp550,000++ for outside guests and includes entrance to the stunning Karma Beach Club. As one of the island’s leading spas, Karma has won countless prestigious awards, including two Yak Awards. Curated by leading international Spa Consultant Judy Chapman, treatments here evolve in response to the guest’s needs and demands. Expect to experience a range of uplifting sea-inspired therapies inclusive of Feel-
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Good Facial, Salty Glow warm sea salt scrub and a Cool It aloe-vera hydration treatment.
The new wellness packages speak to those who want to take their health a bit more seriously, trade the sunbathing for something a little more active, cut back on the booze and celebrate a healthier way of living. Yoga, pilates and fitness classes are offered daily at Karma, along with healthy spabased menus, so you don’t have to wait until Sunday to sample what makes this destination spa so special. The new offerings, the bale, the ocean Spa and the Cliff Spa are open sevens days a week from sunrise to sunset. Naturally this will also appeal to the hedonists among us, because you can have it all. With this latest offering, Karma is simply addressing the balance between indulgence and wellness, a time-honoured route to holistic happiness, for this writer at least. www.karmagroup.com
@karma.kandara.bali
clean and natural at karma kandara's ocean spa.
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A capella jungle wonderland capella is a sensational addition to ubud's resort elite.
A Capella
natural spring pools, exquisite fresh food, and right, api jiwa ... capella raises the bar.
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Nestled in the rolling rice paddies and rainforest ravines of Keliki, Capella Ubud, Bali is now open with 23 luxury tented retreats and two distinctive dining concepts that are destinations in themselves. I, for one, couldn’t wait to experience this exotic outpost, so just a month after their grand unveiling I find myself at the intimate dining den of Api Jiwa under the care of award-winning culinary director Matt McCool. Architecture aficionados will swoon over this five-star property designed by internationally acclaimed resort designer Bill Bensley. Inspired by the first European explorers to settle in Bali in the 1800s, this sprawling property features custom-designed tents with saltwater pools, stone pathways lit at night by old-fashioned camp lanterns, and open-sided dining venues that offer views of lush greenery in every direction. Mads Lange is the main restaurant and a pretty spectacular spot with huge teak beams, an arched ceiling adorned with scenes from the Ramayana, and a massive deck that overlooks the resort’s infinity pool on the edge of the ravine. The ethos here is homegrown and home-made with contemporary European dishes inspired by the spice trade and colonial recipes. Think premium meats salted, brined and dry-aged in house, fresh local produce, and unique touches like honey from the resort’s own bee colonies! Follow the winding stone stairs down a level and you reach Api Jiwa, a theatrical Asian BBQ concept that boasts touches of the ancient Japanese robatayaki tradition. Done up in dark wood, this 16-seat restaurant centres around a C-shaped island where diners can watch the chefs assemble and char-grill each morsel. There are no printed menus, rather guests can enjoy tailored omakase menus with an array of courses thoughtfully explained by chef Matt and his team. As my dining companions and I sit down at the long wooden counter, the servers set us up with cold towels and glasses of sparkling sake. Other drink options include house-made sodas, small-batch craft beers, and boutique wines. Chef Matt is on the other side of the counter and immediately puts us ease with a bit of banter and a brief intro to the menu, which he explains is meat and seafood-driven and centred around seasonal ingredients. Coming to us by way of Australia, Matt has over 12 years of experience working in
acclaimed restaurants including the iconic Quay in Sydney, Gordon Ramsay’s Maze, and Aria in Shanghai. His playful, contemporary approach to incorporating prime Australian ingredients into Asian cooking is his signature, and he brings this flair to Mads Lange and Api Jiwa, but with a focus on local flavours and imaginative creations that tell a story. Our meal starts with bite-sized canapes representing an array of Asian cuisines. In true Balinese style, crispy pork belly is topped with thin slices of fried garlic and sits atop steamed cassava leaves. Moving onto Japan, we indulge in a creamy chawanmushi egg custard with prawns and soybeans served in a delicate eggshell. And in a nod to Thai street food, skewers of smoky grilled squid are served with a fragrant green curry emulsion and garnished with corn kernels. As the meal moves forward, the dishes get heartier and the flavours get bolder. A favourite all around is the hamachi marinated in yuzu, rolled in kombu, and served with an umami-packed XO sauce of pork, shrimp, scallops, and chilies. Minced duck satay is topped with kimchi and eaten wrapped up in a cabbage leaf. The chicken wings win the prize for engaging all the senses. Stuffed with chicken mousse and a green spice blend, they come on a bed of herbs that are lit with charcoal to create fragrant curls of smoke. Even the desserts are unique and rooted to the region. Take for example, a delicate red dome that when cracked open reveals Japanese cheesecake with soy espuma and pineapple chutney. When all the elements are eaten together, we get a slightly spicy kick from the chili-infused candy coating. Then there are edible ‘stones’ filled with creamy yuzu and chocolate infused with black Korean chili paste. From start to finish, the meal is an interactive adventure. Not only do you get to see every dish prepared in front of you, but you can also chat with chef Matt and his team and ask questions about the dishes and the inspiration behind them. In fact, you may just find that your meal is so engaging that you forget to gaze out at the amazing scenery around you. That is until you tear yourself away from the cosy confines of Api Jiwa and remember that you’re in the midst of the jungle wonderland that is Capella Ubud, Bali. www.capellahotels.com/en/capella-ubud
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oral pleasures
apertif at the viceroy bali brings the glamour and decadence of the 1920s to Ubud, writes stephanie mee. photos lucky 8.
all the best vices.
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Ubud is already widely known as a world-class dining destination, and this September it gets another feather in its culinary cap with the unveiling of Apéritif restaurant and bar. Set on the grand grounds of the Viceroy Bali, this sophisticated spot steps up the game with opulent colonial design and decor, incredible views over the jungle-clad Petanu River gorge, and a contemporary menu that excites and delights from start to finish. A note on the Viceroy Bali for those who don’t know: this intimate five-star resort has recently undergone some changes to add even more wow-factor to the guest experience. New private-pool villas enhance the collection of thatched-roofed sanctuaries perched on the edge of the ravine, and Apéritif joins awardwinning CasCades restaurant as another spectacular dining venue, albeit with a distinctly different vibe. Apéritif takes inspiration from the glamour and decadence of the 1920s with soaring ceilings, antique cast iron chandeliers, black and white checked floor tiles, and huge arched colonial windows and doors. Head inside to the elegant bar for a selection of fine wines, top-shelf whiskies, cognacs, aperitifs, and craft cocktails designed by Ran Van Ongevalle. Guests at the bar are also treated to gourmet canapés served on custom-designed silver canapé trees. Step into the spacious dining room and you find a glass-encased wine cellar with handpicked bottles from the Old and New Worlds, intimate tables draped in crisp white linens, and large windows that offer views over the ravine. The open kitchen allows guests to watch executive chef Nic Vanderbeeken and his team work their magic amid state-of-the-art equipment unlike any you’ll find on the island, or across Indonesia for that matter. The eight-course tasting menu at Apéritif is a perfect example of Nic’s flair for combining classic European sensibilities with contemporary global influences. Take for example the delicate ceviche consisting of fresh line-caught fish dusted with seaweed powder
and served with homemade coconut milk infused with fragrant kaffir lime oil. The heirloom tomatoes are another refreshing starter that fire up the taste buds with subtle hints of kombu, Parmesan, and black garlic. As the gastronomic journey continues, the dishes get increasingly more decadent, like the venison wellington wrapped in golden pastry and sliced tableside to reveal layers of foie gras and melt-in-your-mouth venison. Each slice is served on top of shimeji mushrooms with a rich mushroom rendang reduction drizzled over top. Another memorable main is the tender duck Magret with heirloom beetroot and a spiced orange sauce. Local ingredients factor into each dish, while other delicacies come from places renowned for particular products. Chef Nic says, “Whenever possible we work with local farmers and producers to source ingredients from Bali and the region. However, we won’t compromise on quality, so if something isn’t up to par here, then we’ll import.” Take one taste of the tender New Zealand venison or Canadian lobster, and you can forgive them for sourcing abroad. The meal ends on a high note with playful desserts that harken back to the chefs’ childhood memories. We’re huge fans of the PB & J, a gorgeous concoction of silky peanut butter in a meringue shell sprayed with Monggo chocolate and topped with a tart and tangy mulberry sorbet. The dessert also comes with a brown paper bag labelled with your name; just like the packed lunch your mum might have given you for school. Dying to know what’s inside? You’ll have to visit yourself to find out. Chances are you’ll probably want to linger for a while after your meal, either with a nightcap at the bar or a scotch and cigar on the balcony. After all, you’ll want to savour every moment of the experience, from the striking architecture and design to the exquisite food and drink, and the impeccable service. And if you really want to make a night of it, you can always book into one of the luxe villas just a few steps away. www.aperitif.com www.viceroybali.com
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dumbo pizza
When you think vegetarian restaurant, what comes to mind? A no-frills, crunchy granola sort of place serving up spirulina and tofu bowls? Well Dumbo aims to flip that notion on its head with a stylin’ new spot in Sanggingan. You won’t find rougharound-the-edges digs and simple rabbit food here. Instead it’s all about high-end design, innovative Italian gastronomy, and modern mixology. You may know Dumbo’s owner, former DJ Jono Russell, from other vegetarian venues like Cafe Zucchini in Seminyak, Green Ginger Noodle House in Canggu, or The Elephant, a wildly popular Ubud institution just next door. For the past 10 years, Jono has been striving to create avant garde vegetarian fare that breaks away from the same-old salad drill. Dumbo is his latest venture, and it’s already earning cred with vegetarians and meat-eaters alike. Jono says, “Ubud has quite a few vegetarian cafes and restaurants, but no upscale sort of spots, so when vegetarians like myself want to have a nice meal with a few glasses of wine, we usually end up going to places where our dining options are limited. With Dumbo I wanted to create a stylish space where people can enjoy a sophisticated dining experience and vibrant food that also happens to be meat-free.” As soon as you saunter through Dumbo’s elegant glass and wood doors, you can tell you’re in for something special. On the ground floor is a swank bar and lounge where baristas man the La Marzocco espresso machine by day and bartenders whip up craft cocktails by night. Also behind the bar is Jono’s impressive vinyl collection, procured over many years and shipped in from Australia with no small amount of effort.
stephanie mee visits an ubud vegetarian restaurant like no other. photos: lucky 8.
Head up the staircase made of huge black bamboo pillars, and you reach the main dining room with it’s soaring ceiling and unique stacked brick walls. Tables line the asymmetrical space, and open sides in one corner allow for views of the Campuhan Ridge. At the other side of the room, the open kitchen boasts a towering wood-fired oven. Don’t be surprised if soon after you sit down, one of the staff rocks up with a rolling drink cart and offers to shake up cocktails right at your table.
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We opt for an apple lemongrass margarita that gives a refreshing herbaceous kick, and Dumbo’s twist on the old fashioned with aromatic Indonesian spices, burnt orange, and a smouldering cinnamon stick. Ibu Metri helms the kitchen and puts out hearty Italian food made with organic ingredients, the majority coming from spring-fed gardens in Bedugul and on the slopes of Mount Batukaru. Jono says, “It’s been such a great experience visiting the gardens with the staff and showing them the source of our produce so they have a real connection with the food.” “We also aim to create as little waste as possible, so we use as many parts of the vegetables and roots that we can. For example, we use fronds in our sauces and reductions and peels as garnishes in our cocktails. They add unique nuances of flavour that you miss out on if you throw away those bits.” The menu items are designed to be shared with dynamic small plates to start and bigger plates for mains. We kick off our meal with an antipasto platter packed with light bites like Parmesan crumbed mushrooms, roasted veggies, and wedges of fluffy frittata. Other tempting starters include the cheesy polenta chips with romesco and tempura zucchini flowers with ricotta, lemon, mint and green chilli mayo. Mains include imaginative pastas like the bon-bon shaped caramelle pasta stuffed with beetroot, spinach and ricotta finished with burnt sage butter, and the creamy mac n’ cheese cooked in the oven until bubbling and crispy on top. Thin-crust pizzas also round out the menu. Our pick is the Bianca Jagger with potato, rocket, rosemary, black olives, roasted garlic and a dusting of dried chilli. It should be noted that neither my dining companion nor I are vegetarian, but we don’t feel like we’re missing a thing. The space is chic and has an almost urban vibe, the food is moreish and creative, and not a single diner shoots us a holier-than-thou look. We can definitely see ourselves coming back to sample more of the menu and have a cocktail or three. www.dumbobali.com
let's not meat.
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oral pleasures
the seminyak shines with new blood in the kitchen, the seminyak beach resort carves a niche in bali's iconic beach enclave.
There’s a definite divide in Seminyak between the old school elegance of resorts like The Oberoi, and the new breed of sleek, modern resorts like Alila and W. The Seminyak Beach Resort and Spa bridges both, providing modern luxury with the classical charm that is the hallmark of Balinese hospitality. Set on four hectares across a stunning beachfront, The Seminyak resides where once an older resort sat, and despite the land size, the resort is relatively small with just 150 suites and 12 private pool villas, ensuring that it retains its character as a tranquil oasis in bustling Seminyak. The appointment of a relatively young chef with a solid restaurant background, as opposed to a classically trained hotel chef, speaks volumes about where the owners are positioning themselves on this competitive strip. Chef Josh Job knows a thing or two about running successful restaurants. The Byron Bay native has been working the kitchens of Watercress and Milk and Madu in recent years. Before that he did stints in Nusa Lembongan and at The Beach House in Gili Trawangan. As Executive Chef of Good Food Brotherhood, the group behind the vibrant venues that expanded to include street food classics Ulekan, Bangkok Hustle and Schmurger Burger, Josh knows how to please a crowd. At The Seminyak he takes on his most challenging role to date and is relishing the opportunity. “I have a pretty firm philosophy about food. It has to be honest first of all, whether you’re talking about a rijstaffel banquet or a salad. I lean towards a healthier style of cooking, lighter and more modern but if my guests want Indonesian or Thai, I want to make sure it’s authentic,” he explains over lunch at the resort’s main dining room, Santan. The resort has two restaurants, a stunning intimate cocktail and wine bar and a private dining room where a string of events are planned. “ The private wine dinners are where we can really show off and we have some great chef events planned. For the main menus I want to make sure that more than anything the flavours are true and authentic. We offer a good wine list and some creative cocktails,” he continues. After months of tweaking the existing menus and revising the recipes in line with his healthier approach to modern dining, he is ready to roll out the first of his new menus. First up is breakfast at the resort’s beach club. Sanje is a hidden gem, with a fabulous position overlooking the ocean, it welcomes outside guests who can walk in off the beach. The laid back beachfront restaurant and bar, Sanje, is a find for those who want an alternative to the glamorous venues that line this stretch of beach. With a beautiful pool, weathered wooden furniture in a mix of styles, day beds, large and smaller tables and sun beds, it offers a fresh and modern menu and a laid back charm. It borrows its influences from Santorini and Sicily, mingling fresh flavours, big salads, a barbecue grill offering lemon and herb-scented seafood and meat with casual beach bar classics. Without the high priced minimum spend, guests can stop in for breakfast, lunch, sunset cocktails or simply a coffee and a swim. With his background, you just know that breakfast will be a highlight here. The chance to linger and enjoy the sun and a swim in the beautiful pool is a bonus. With a swim up bar tucked away in one corner and spacious day beds lining the sand, it’s a 126
fairly sure thing that once discovered, this little gem won’t be forgotten. Although the rain prevented us from sitting at Sanje, we ordered off the menu. I chose a delicious seafood pasta, a perfect tangle of spaghetti generous with tender scallops, fresh prawns, mussels and tuna. It tasted of the sea. The chef also chose a pasta, a creamy carbonara, al dente and brightened up with the addition of fresh asparagus. The main hotel dining room, Santan, is a large open wantilan where Asian food is the mainstay of the menu. Here Josh wants to focus on both Thai and Indonesian recipes, keeping it authentic and retaining the charm of a Balinese resort. “This is what a lot of our guests really want. As part of the Luxury Hotels groups, we get a lot of guests from Europe and Australia as well as Asia. The bar is set high and they expect quality as well as honesty, integrity and authenticity,” explains Josh. This is also where various cultural events are staged, as well as the themed evenings held on the sprawling lawns overlooking the sea. Aside from bringing his health-oriented fresh menus to Sanje to create a beach bar and restaurant that will cater to both in house guests and visitors, Josh is quietly excited about the new venue he is creating at the front of the property. Klass and Brass is the intimate cocktail bar that has its own entrance at the front of the resort. Josh is re-launching Klass and Brass as a speakeasy cocktail bar, with a hidden entrance, a password to gain entrance and a menu of top shelf cocktails. “This project is going to be a lot of fun, perfect for a girls’ nights out, party and celebrations and also a place to come for an intimate cocktail. The concept doesn’t really exist in this part of Seminyak, a real alternative to the bigger clubs and nightlife destinations in the area,” he continues. Off the bar is a beautiful private dining room and wine room. This is where he can really play, and yes, “show off”. “We’ve done a few already and we have had some Michelin-starred chefs come in as guests so far and we plan to do more events in the future.” The stunning room sports a long table that easily seats 12. Lined by wine fridges on one side and large windows along the front, with formal curtains to create an intimate space. This is also where he has introduced the rijstaffel dinners. The traditional Indonesian feast will require a minimum of four guests, up to 12, and will offer multiple courses of beautifully prepared Indonesian dishes. The departure from hotel chef to a forward-thinking restaurant chef sets The Seminyak Resort and Spa apart from its neighbours and is a sure sign that the resort owners want to introduce a modern food philosophy to the luxurious property. Attracting outside guests to a very crowded and competive part of Seminyak will be no mean feat. With Ku De Ta to one side, The Legian, The Samaya and La Lucciola to the other, this is a big leap. One that Chef Josh Job is approaching with his signature cool, calm, organized and creative style. There’s a palatable excitement within this stylish resort and it feels as though its time to shine has arrived. S.D. www.theseminyak.com
time to shine at the seminyak.
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oral pleasures
local hero.
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ondy sweeting takes An evocative culinary Journey through the archipelago at Kaum.
Potato Head Beach Club can blindside you. It’s big, it’s funky, it’s gregarious and yet it’s also got pockets of difference, places to tuck yourself away and it’s charming in its details. It is the sum of its parts. Kaum, it’s lofty Indonesian restaurant is a little like that. As you wander into Potato Head, awash with bodies gleaming in the sun, a soulful soundtrack with a sturdy beat plays and the sun and the surf work their part. You don’t expect a discreet stairway to deliver you to a level that is markedly different than the one you just departed, yet that’s exactly how it feels. There’s more than a nod to Alice in this wonderland. Kaum is quite rightfully, upstairs. It is a cut above the humble warung, although many of its dishes sing the same songs. It has earned its place among Bali’s better Indonesian restaurants, delivering a culinary experience that sits squarely between fine dining and street food. Illuminated by its many windows that overlook the grassy grounds, the swimming pool and the surf, Kaum is light, modern and casual by day. By night, the lights reflect the moonlit sea and a calm settles over the club below. The atmosphere changes but the food and the service are equally good. Chef Wayan hails from Nusa Penida. He gained a world of experience before coming to take this post. His deft hand with dishes that are often heavy in their traditional garb is skillful and restrained, bringing modern relevance to dishes that are time-honoured and true to their regional roots.
a side of free range boiled eggs and garlic crackers, it was among the best versions I’ve tried. Most I wouldn’t order again. To be honest, it is not a dish I would ever order, so I was put to rights with this one. Goldilocks came to mind with the spice level, it was just about at the heat I could manage, not too hot, not too mild. Just right. It arrived with a plate of sparkling fresh tuna, gohu ikan tuna, marinated in coconut oil with kenari nuts, ginseng leaves and rice crackers. This dish is inspired by the Maluku islands and it was just a little too tangy for my taste but very fresh, like an Indonesian-inspired ceviche. Lovers of coconut oil will adore it. With our starters cleared away by accomplished wait staff, our chilled beaujolais a surprising match for the dishes. First up is a smouldering satay set with charred pork belly, Bali-style. A delicious sambal accompanies the satay babi kecap, made with sweet soy, eschallot and chili. There was no mistaking the flavours came from Bali. Delicious. Beside it was a soup made with beef short ribs and black nuts. The beef was soft and gelatinous while the soup was rich yet mildly spiced. This dish, sop konro, hails from South Sulawesi where the flavours tend to be sweeter. The traditional rice cakes soaked up the spices and melinjo crackers added texture. The final dish in the medley of mains was bebek bengel from West Java. A generous half of crispy duck served with a green mango and red chili relish. The duck was delicious, not in the pink French way but rather a robust market-style.
Lunch is delightful and both the single tables and the long sharing table are filled with animated diners, enjoying a culinary journey through the archipelago.
Aside from the cooking technique, the ingredients themselves are allowed to shine, which brings the local dishes up to restaurant quality. The duck, for instance, was not the tastyyet-stringy local duck but a full-bodied beast. It was meaty and flavourful, accompanied by a fragrant pot of aromatic yellow rice with the traditional fried shallots to add texture.
Three set menus offer a taste of East Indonesia, Bali and Java, or regional dishes from around Indonesia. There is also an à la carte menu. We chose to travel far and wide with the Indonesian menu. The dishes are offered family style, with two entrees, three main courses and a dessert alongside traditional sides and sambals. In fact there is a whole section of the menu dedicated to sambal, this alone is a highlight for the spice adventurers.
I make no apologies for our request to switch desserts. While the lapis jadoel, a spiced layer cake with caramelized pineapple jam, lemon curd and sorbet sounded very fresh, the East Indonesian menu offered a kue coklat from Flores and I am very happy to say it ticked all my chocolate boxes. An oozing, warm fondant-style dessert, it was served with shredded coconut cream and a coconut caramel sauce. The plate was expertly cleaned up so that no one need ever know we’d done the switch. It was fantastic.
‘ From ancient rice terraces to untouched coastlines, Indonesia’s evocative landscapes are an endless source of inspiration for the Kaum kitchen,’ the menu informs us. And so our journey begins.
The set menus are very well priced, with an average cost of Rp350,000 per person. The wine list is generous with a choice of wines by the glass or carafe as well as full bottles. Sitting up here watching the bronzed bodies beneath us soak up the sun and cool off in the pool overlooking the ocean is a reminder that Bali is a holiday island and even those that have work to do can still bask in the glory of the endless summer, which makes it all feel so much better.
Gado Gado is a dish much loved around the world, originating from Jakarta, we are told. This dish sets Kaum apart from the start. The signature spiced peanut sauce can be gloopy and thick, here it is light and tangy, the flavours are beautifully balanced. A tangle of garden vegetables sits prettily on the plate, blanched lightly to retain their freshness, with
www.kaum.com
@kaumrestaurant
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oral pleasures
Play ing with Fire
steak your claim.
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sarah douglas dines at w resort's seamless steakhouse fire and loves it.
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Outside the sunset washes the sky with pastel colours. Palm trees cast their final shadows. Couples mingle on the terraces and a smooth beat carries on the breeze. Arriving at the W Bali at this time of day is always spectacular, it is after all the ultimate playground for grown ups. It’s with more than a little excitement that we wander into the glowing dining room that is Fire. Staggered tables rise towards the inspired chandelier, the grill chefs are busy with their prep in the open kitchen and our hostess wonders would we like to enjoy the last light outside or take an inside table? I always sit inside at Fire. It is one of my favourite places to eat and watching the chefs at work, masters of the grill, is my idea of entertainment. Dining here really is theatrical. Fire has been inspired by Bali’s famous Kecak dance, it’s a little bit New York steakhouse meets Balinese ballroom, on a smaller scale. There is more to this menu than steak but it’s hard to go past the amazing selection, at least for me. Menus arrive; tall leather bound wine lists, a cocktail menu and a food menu. The waitress pours a little wine and waits for approval before filling our glasses, and little canapés arrive to tease the taste buds before the main event. The service is seamless, and it all feels very sophisticated for a holiday resort. Another waiter arrives with a large platter displaying the various cuts and grades of steak. From fillets to a large tomahawk, at least 10 steaks fill the board. Some are aged, some are graded wagyu, some are organic, dry aged, or grass fed. It’s not an easy choice but we decide on one of the cheaper cuts, an aged organic rib-eye from Australia. It comes from one of the oldest organic beef suppliers in Australia and is aged in house. From there on it’s a matter of choosing the sauce and the sides. Beef jus wins my vote along with truffled creamed potatoes and spinach cooked with garlic topped with parmesan. I add a sliver of pan-fried foie gras, a treat I can’t resist. Putting his own stamp on the W dining experience is a balancing act for this classically trained chef. With so many repeat visitors, the transition from one chef to the next has to be seamless, changes take time and have to be subtle in execution. Just over a year on, Richard Bias has done that and it remains a work in progress. His most personal project is creating a more sustainable kitchen and his series of pop up ‘Scrap your dinner’ events has brought one of the world’s best sustainable chefs to the W already with another celebrity dinner planned for November.
Stalks, skins, peels, yesterday’s bread, wilted greens, bones and offcuts are transformed into restaurant quality dishes and creative cocktails. It’s clever and clearly a passion for this chef. This year Mads Refslund, co-founder of Copenhagen’s astonishing restaurant Noma and author of ‘Scraps, Wilt and Weeds”, joined Bias in the kitchen and the next event promises to be another highlight for food lovers. Meanwhile our steaks arrive and we are introduced to the knife selection. This is impressive, with names like ‘the gangster’, ‘the Italian job’ and ‘the butcher’ it’s a little tonguein-cheek but impressive nevertheless. There is one more flourish to attend to firstly as our waitress introduces the signature salt and pepper collection. A crystal of pink salt is grated over our plates along with black or pink and green peppercorns. It’s deliciously camp in its way but adds to the theatre of this dining experience. Steaks are perfect, charred outside, glistening pink inside and full of flavour with just enough fat. It’s my kind of steak, which is the way the menu is designed. To each their own. The other great thing about dining at Fire is that the W’s Culinary Director, in this case Chef Richard, is based in this kitchen, and takes his time to talk food, menus, steak, world politics, local growers or whatever you have on your mind. Starfish Bloo, the W’s Oceanside restaurant has Chef de Cuisine, Ashley Garvey, manning the stoves and the floor, so Richard rules the W’s culinary experience here. W has a host of dining options, both casual and formal in addition to the room service menus. The lounge at the entrance, Fuel, has a healthy all-day menu that Richard is revising as a plant-based menu, there’s also the decadent afternoon tea straight out of Alice in Wonderland with giant cakes and cookies served alongside pretty teapots. I hate to mention the home-made candy that sits wickedly on the bar because I have yet to walk past without eating two or three. All day and night, from breakfast and the famous weekend brunches through to late-night dining, there is always something of interest on the menu. Throughout it all is a renewed commitment to sustainable dining that is perfectly in tune with the W brand. Happily wined and dined, we make our way out of the W, a sprawling hive of activity even post dinner. Whatever, whenever you visit, W is always a treat and tonight at Fire was no exception.
sweet.
www.wretreatbali.com
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big six
sarah douglas searches out bali's best quality chocolate producers.
Indonesia is the planet's third largest producer of cocoa beans and yet only recently did artisan makers begin producing quality chocolate here. Stylish, deeply delicious and true to its origins, making chocolate is not only a business, it is a labour of love and we, the consumers, are the winners, with an increasing number of unique local labels. Here are six of our favourites. Pod It began as a question. Why did Indonesia, one of the world’s biggest producers of cacao, not produce any quality chocolate? Australian Toby Garritt turned his considerable experience in the restaurant business into a full-blown quest to find out if it could be done. It may have started as a curiosity but the results can now be seen on shelves throughout Bali and if Toby has his way, soon the world. It took three years to turn this backyard experiment into a full-blown chocolate company but it is without doubt one of Bali’s most stylish brands. Richard Millar, during his time as chef at Bali’s W Resort, threw his full support behind Pod and it turned the company around. Today they produce tons of plain and flavoured couverture chocolate with machinery to rival the Swiss and the Italians. The nectar range includes selections like the best selling sea salt and cacao nibs, coconut, mint and fruit and nut varieties. Supporting local communities, using pure lontar nectar to sweeten his dark varieties, Pod is beautifully packaged, smooth, delicious and absolutely world class. A stop at their chocolate factory is a delicious break on the journey into the hills of Bedugul. www.balichoklat.com Krakakoa Another brand built from the farm up that continues to support local farmers is Krakakoa. Founded in Sumatra by Sabrina Mustopo and Simon Wright, a South African, they work with local farmers to lift the process from quality to control pests – which, not surprisingly, love the cocoa beans as much as humans do. Krakakao pulled off a major coup when they won a total of six medals at the 2017 Academy of Chocolate awards in London, pitted against some of the top chocolate makers in the world. Founded in 2013, the company rebranded in 2016 and now has a beautiful shop on Seminyak’s main road. The chocolate ranges from a 100% dark chocolate to bars flavoured with sea salt and pepper, creamy coffee and other delicious varieties including an inspired classic range. www.krakakoa.com
Elevated Cacao One of the best things about chocolate, apart from its mood-elevating deliciousness, is that it is also considered a superfood. Elevated Cacao is created by a couple of friends from Melbourne who gave up their careers to move to Bali and start making ‘super’ chocolate. The stylish little bars they create are raw, vegan and laced with superfoods and it’s hard to choose one over the others as an absolute favourite. They might be good for you but that’s almost beside the point. This is artisan chocolate at its finest. Amanda and Paul met in Bali on a yoga retreat. Paul was an experienced raw chocolatier and he convinced Amanda to throw her lot in with him and Elevated Cacao was born. While it isn’t possible to create a purely raw chocolate, as the cacao butter is extracted using heat and the coconut sugar must be boiled for days to produce a solid, their beans are fermented only, not roasted, and this is where the purity of flavour comes from. Add in seven varieties of superfoods 132
from goji berries to acai berries, lucuma, sea salt and more, and a true passion for the farmers they work with, this is pure pleasure. And best of all you can share it with your vegan friends. www.elevatedcacao.com Mason Chocolates The Mason family has played an integral role in Bali tourism – as the founders of Bali Adventure Tours, now Mason Adventures, they have hosted millions of people over the decades since they set up business. Their latest venture includes a chocolatier, housed in a beautiful bamboo structure in a stunning location in Taro near Ubud. There are endless adventures to be had here, with one of the island’s safest fleets of Jungle Buggies, ATVs that follow a track through the jungle, the Koko Bamboo poolside restaurant and their gourmet chocolate factory on site. The Masons travelled to Italy to watch the masters at work and purchased high-end equipment to create their filled chocolates. The smooth chocolates are packed with delicious flavours; fruity, spicy or exotic, they add another dimension to the adventures found in the hills and jungles in this unspoiled pocket of Bali. www.masonchocolate.com Big Tree What began as a small family-run crop farm has become one of Indonesia’s largest organic food enterprises working with over 14,000 farmers to create their range of organic products, including chocolate. The three-tiered bamboo structure, located close to the Green School and mirroring its architecture, houses the Big Tree chocolate factory. The educational, and delicious, tour takes you through the process from bean to bar. Chefs often call on Big Tree for the chocolate mass, the paste produced after the beans have been fermented and ground. For master bakers like Will Goldfarb from Room4Dessert, the paste gives them the flexibility to add their own flavours and control the sweetness. Big Tree is one of the forerunners in the organic coconut sugar production, so naturally their products are sweetened with it. Local chocolate producers often use the rich, caramel-like coconut sugar to give their products a unique taste. Big Tree produces a wide range based on the cocoa beans, from raw beans to roasted beans, nibs, drinking chocolate and plain and flavoured bars. https://bigtreefarms.com Uforia and Sorga The labels on Uforia Chocolate defy the seriousness of this Balinese-owned brand of chocolate. Made Rutana and Wayan Suwita are as home grown as it comes but that didn’t stop them drawing on international experts when they decided to create their own chocolate company. Made Rutana’s family owned cacao farms in Karangasem although it was not a path he planned to follow. Until he met Wayan who had travelled and tasted some of the world’s best chocolates and fell in love with the idea of starting a business on home soil. Wayan set up the factory in 2011 and started producing Uforia and Sorga under PT Bali Chocolate. Made answered a vacancy advertisement and the two have gone from strength to strength. By reducing the mixing time for their chocolate, they claim their range retains more of its natural properties and tastes more alive. The factory in the east Bali village of Jasri is worth a stop. www.sorgachocolate.com
LIVE BALINESE DANCE & MUSIC SHOW
SUNDAY SEASIDE BRUNCH
Hotel Tugu Bali, Every Thursday, 19.30 A rare performance designed to revive the disappearing culture, traditional dances, music and costumes of Bali. Rotating dances performed at the majestic hall based on ancient Balinese architecture, this evening of magical Bali is not to be missed. Free Admission - A la carte dinner
Sundays in Bali are to be celebrated with an amazing long brunch by the sea. With 180 degrees of ocean view frontage, chill DJ tunes, endless choice of scrumptious Japanese inspired-brunch dishes, freeflow fine wines and Ji’s signature cocktails, Ji Terrace by the Sea is the ultimate brunch place in Canggu.
bali@tuguhotels.com or +62 361 473 1701
ji@tuguhotels.com or +62 81 239 652 695, +62 361 473 1701
HOTEL TUGU BALI Jl. Pantai Batu Bolong, Canggu Beach, Bali www.tuguhotels.com
JI RESTAURANT BALI Jl. Pantai Batu Bolong, Canggu Beach, Bali www.Jiatbalesutra.com
Ji Restaurant Bali
@jirestaurantbali
tuguhotels
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@tuguhotels
taken not stirred
b l o w n
a w a y Having a quick nail polish will never be the same after entering the wild world of Blow Bar. writes Ondy Sweeting. photos: lucky 8.
armchair expert.
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blow Bar is a hair and beauty destination – of a rare kind – with a central bar in the classic French style: as an island placed in the middle of the space for all to see. Glasses hang overhead with top shelf libations above. Oversized ice buckets house bottles of premium champagne such as Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin, while tucked into the icy under counter fridges are bottles of Bintang – Bali’s famous lager. Blow Bar has been part of the legendary Eat Street for little over a year and is already a popular hangout for expats and visitors. There are no tribes here. Canggu hipsters will pop in to arrange some dread management and stay for hours while lovely Aussie blokes will shoot the breeze and beers while their beloved enjoys a treatment. Blow Bar, given its sizzling location in central Seminyak, is a pumping starting point for a night out – with the impressive menu of beauty treatment virtually ignored or used merely for entertainment. I have seen possibly the world’s longest hair while sitting at the bar and the whir of activity imbues the place with a dynamic vibe. It’s a magnet for parties and friends looking for a blast off with style. The cranking air conditioning is a chilled escape from the heat. And what a place to perch with lush studded leather barstools created for comfort and a view. As much thought and has gone into providing pleasure for bar dwellers as has gone into the zones dedicated to locks and fingers. Bag hooks are discreetly placed against the black bar alongside multiple powers points – you’ll never have to worry about running the phone battery down and sparing the happy snaps and vacay selfies. Black and white tiles in a herringbone pattern enhance the unequivocally upscale interior. Blow Bar’s curated music swings from funky 70s R&B such as Earth Wind & Fire and feel good disco tunes through to Amy Winehouse and avant guard sampling. The cocktail list has 14 classic creations including the ever-popular Negroni and Espresso Martini to the more curious Pink Bikini – a mix of raspberry, lime and vanilla topped with cheese foam. Martinis are offered as dry or Rosso style and are served with an olive or a twist. The Bloody Mary is the real deal with Worchestershire sauce, Tobasco, a secret spiced tomato mix plus salt n pepper. The Dragon Sling harnesses the goodness of Bali’s delicious red dragon fruit and blends it with gin, cherry brandy, DOM, pineapple juice, Angostura bitter and lime. Spanish-style sangria is made for the tropical climate and presented in a well-known red wine base with fruit as well as white sangria, which is packed with passion fruit, mint and citrus.
Blow’s Bellini – Aperrol spritz with sparkling wine, orange juice and olive – is a refreshing treat while Puttin’ On The Spritz is passion shrub, sugarcane and bubbles and tastes of sweet dreams. Quaffable and premium wines by the bottle comes in a choice that covers most bases with a Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Grigio, Chardonnay, Rosé, Pinot Noir and a Malbec. Not everything is heavy on the hooch with a good selection of mocktails. Kids will love the eternally popular Shirley Temple of lemonade, lime and grenadine, or a Sour Vanilla, which is a brew of house-made vanilla, lime and soda. Adults will love the Virgin Mary, which is packed with the same delicious spices as its alcoholic sister and the Virgin Mojito is a sweet winner too. Check out the Layered Colibri – a blend of pineapple, orange and lime juice with a splash of grenadine and coke. Blow Bar is Insta-ready with searing polished concrete walls relieved by a huge wooden panel with back-lit Blow Bar signage. High ceilings showcase a recessed accent of pressed tin panels with a Victorian flavour. It mirrors the shape of the bar and connects what could potentially feel cavernous – Blow Bar is a warehouse style space turned into an intimate and convivial destination. Ceiling-to-floor street art has been brought inside from the landmark ‘I Want Your Hair’ painting on Blow Bar’s external wall that pays homage to artists like Banksy and My Dog Sighs, but executed à la Indonesia.
No short cuts.
The afro graffiti art makes its way into the nail parlour where it packs a punch of boho chic to the boudoir-style circular banquet that is a customized space for a bag, phone and that all important cocktail. @blowbarbali
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Kayumanis Seaside Sanur intimate Indonesia bistro From sunrise breakfasts by the beach to all-day dining experiences cooled by the ocean breeze, our stylish bistro will introduce you to the culinary delights of Indonesia with an exceptional menu of flavourful cuisine.
Jl. Segara Ayu, Pantai Sindhu Sanur, Bali, Indonesia P. 62 361 6200 777
FIND US
Kayumanis Seaside Sanur
SEMINYAK KUTA QUEEN’S TANDOOR T. +62361 732 770
QUEEN’S OF INDIA T. +62361 765 988
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NUSA DUA UBUD QUEEN’S OF INDIA T. +62361 771 344
QUEEN’S OF INDIA T. +62361 977 399
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FOR VANITY & SANITY! BEAUTY • SALON • SPA • NAILS • BRIDAL • BARBER
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SEMINYAK: Kunti Plaza – Jl. Kunti No 119 Seminyak, Bali, Indonesia Tel. (+62) 361 738 689
SANUR: Gopa Town Square – Jl. Danau Poso 57 Sanur, Bali, Indonesia Tel. (+62) 361 282 826
Glo Spa Bali_AdYak57.indd 1
Glo Day Spa & Salon CANGGU: Jl. Subak Sari No 90 Canggu, Bali, Indonesia Tel. (+62) 361 934 8844
glodayspa_bali NUSA LEMBONGAN: Sandy Bay Lembongan, Bali, Indonesia Tel. (+62) 6289 701 5600
11/10/2017 12:06:12 PM
brands
halal botanicals
au naturel.
Bali’s favourite all-natural beauty-care brand, Sensatia Botanicals, earned yet another accolade with the announcement that their products are officially halal certified. This means that every single bar of soap, fragrant bottle of shampoo, and any other divine product you pick up in their stores and the online shop is made with all-natural, plant-based products that adhere to Islamic qualifications. Sensatia Botanicals has always been so much more than just a luxe cosmetics company. The story begins when a young Michael R. Lorenti Jr. washed up on the shores of Jasri, Karangasem in East Bali. He immediately fell in love with the laid-back lifestyle, epic surf, and the villagers, who quickly became like family to him. It wasn’t long before he started dreaming of how he could build something meaningful with his newfound family. In 2000, Michael and just three employees began making natural handmade soaps with local ingredients. Almost immediately, a large US chain store group picked up the brand. It was a logical leap to start experimenting with other products, and after just a year, Sensatia Botanicals had 23 employees and were distributing to various clients and countries. From the beginning, Michael wanted to promote equality and ensure that the people he worked with also benefitted from the company’s success, so he set Sensatia up as a profit-sharing cooperation. To this day, each Sensatia Botanicals employee has 20 per cent shares in the company. And with a wildly successful collection of over 200 products sold in 40 countries worldwide, this has made a huge difference in the lives of many. What also sets Sensatia apart from other brands is their commitment to
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quality products that truly adhere to the eco-friendly, all-natural ethos. This means minimising the company’s environmental footprint by using pure, natural ingredients to create products that are cruelty-free, free of parabens, palm oil, synthetic dyes and artificial fragrances. Before any products go out the door, Michael and his team source the freshest ingredients to create samples, then work with a pharmacist at the Sensatia lab to test the samples and ensure they meet GMP (Good Manufacturing Process) standards. In fact, Sensatia is the first and only GMP certified cosmetic company in Bali. With such care for what goes into their products, it should come as no surprise that Sensatia applied for halal certification. Michael says, “Since 2000, we have been committed to producing high quality cosmetic products. As an extension of our understanding of the special needs of our Muslim consumers in Indonesia and throughout the world, we started the application for halal certification in mid-2017.” To become certified here in Bali, the LPPOM MUI Bali (Assessment Institute for Foods, Drugs and Cosmetics - The Indonesian Council of Ulama Bali) must do a thorough examination of all ingredients, production processes, and implementation of the Halal Assurance System (HAS) within the production facility. Not surprisingly, Sensatia passed the audit with flying colours. On April 4th, the Fatwa Commission of the Indonesian Council of Ulama Bali officially affirmed that all Sensatia Botanicals products are officially halal-certified, giving us yet another reason to love this homegrown brand. www.sensatia.com
fashion freestyle
www.biasagroup.com
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www.deuscustoms.com
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fashion freestyle
www.bambooblonde.com
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Balinese pro-surfer Dyah Rahayu www.atlaspearls.com.au
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fashion freestyle
www.paulropp.com
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www.bambusee.com & www.thefranksland.com
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www.johnhardy.com/visit-us-in-bali
yak events
fairways to heaven All Blacks legend Byron Kelleher opened proceedings at the sixth Yak Golf Community Cup, this time at Bali National Golf Club. The fun started with a chipping competition that saw various countries represented – victory going finally to the English with The Yak's own team player Richard Simmonds placing the ball inches from the hole. As ever our sponsors gave us a great sideline in food and beverage, and the fun carried on post golf with an awards ceremony that saw a large proportion of the 120 players recieve special gifts and prizes. More is planned! We’ll see you at the next tournament on October 6th, 2018 at Bali Handara. Fore! www.theyakmag.com/golf
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Specializing in custom hand made tiles
PHILIP LAKEMAN
C E R A M I C
advertiser's directory
EVENT ORGANISER Pro Motion Events Tel: +623614725190 www.pro-motion-events.com Page 153 HEALTH, SPAS & SALONS Blow Bar Tel: +623613350600 www.blowbarbali.com Page 35 Yak Map R.8 Glo Day Spa Tel: +62361738689/ 282 826/ 934 8844/701 5600 www.glospabali.com Page 137 Yak Map L.1, X10 Kayu Manis Tel: +62361705 777 www.kayumanis.com Page 136 Yak Map E.16 Spoiled Hairdressers Tel: +623618475141/+6281999288555 www.spoiledhairdressers.com Page 8 Yak Directory Yak Map R.1 HOTELS & VILLAS Alila Manggis www.alilahotels.com/manggis Page 6-7 Alila Seminyak www.alilahotels.com/seminyak Page 6-7 Yak Map L.6 Alila Ubud www.alilahotels.com/ubud Page 6-7 Alila Villas Uluwatu www.alilahotels.com/uluwatu Page 6-7 Yak Map G.16 Capella Ubud, Bali Tel: +623612091888 www.capellahotels.com Page 62 Impiana Private Villas Tel: +62361730840 www.impianaseminyak.com Page 100 Yak Map W.11 Karma Beach Tel: +62370630982/+62361848 2202 www.karmaclub.com www.karmagroup.com/karmabeach Page 24 Yak Map F.15 Renaissance Tel: +623612003588 www.renaissancebali.com Page 91 Yak Map F.16 Sandat Glamping Tel: +623618946388 www.glampingsandat.com Page 22 Sthala, A Tribute Portfolio Hotel, Ubud Bali Tel: +623613018700
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www.sthalaubudbali.com Page 90 The Anvaya Beach Resort Bali Tel: +62361759991 www.theanvayabali.com Page 17 Yak Map C.13 The Edge/Mesa Hotel & Resort/ oneeighty Tel: +6236188470700/+62 3618470700 www.mesahotelsandresorts.com www.oneeightybali.com Page 121 Yak Map G.14 The Seminyak Beach Resort & SPA Tel: +6236730814 www.theseminyak.com Page 47 Yak Map N.8 The Ungasan Clifftop Resort Tel: +623618482111 www.theungasan.com Page 10-11 Yak Map G.15 Tugu Hotels www.tuguhotels.com Page 133 W Retreat & Spa Tel: +623614738106 www.wretreatbali.com Page 39 Yak Map K.4 MEDIA / PRINTING Supa Print Tel: +623618475740 www.supa-print.com Page 153 Yak Map C.7 MISCELLANEOUS Balinale www.balinale.com Page 54 Baliprod Tel: +6281239280201 www.baliprod.com Page 120 Bali Landscape Company Tel: +623618975105 www.balilandscapecompany.com Page 6 Yak Directory Yak Map P.1 Bali National Golf Club Tel: +62361771791 www.balinational.com Page 26-27 Freixenet Page BIC Leadbetter Golf Academy Tel: +62361773852 www.leadbetterbali.com Page 137 Mason Adventures Tel: +62361721480 www.masonadventures.com Page 101 Yak Map G.11
New Kuta Golf www.newkutagolf.com Page 150 Yak Map F.16 The Podium Lounge www.podiumlounge.com/sg Page 139 Ubud Writers & Readers Festival www.ubudwritersfestival.com Page 55 Waterbom Bali Tel +62361755676 www.waterbom-bali.com Page 25 Yak Map C.12 PROPERTY Elite Havens www.elitehavens.com Page 1
Yak Map P.8
RESTAURANTS & BARS Aperitif Tel: +62361971777 Page 21 Da Maria Bali Tel: +6282237733099 www.damariabali.com Page 37 Yak Map T.3 Dumbo Tel: 081238389993 www.dumbobali.com Page 71 Ibiza In Bali www.ibizainbali.com Page 29 Yak Map F.14 Motel Mexicola Tel: +62361736688 Page 41 Yak Map N.6 MyWarung Tel: +6281238059687 www.mywarung.com Page 8-9 Yak Map S2, Q5 OMNIA Dayclub Bali www.omniabali.com Page 15 Yak Map F.16 Queen’s Tandoor Tel: +62361732770/765988 www.bali.queenstandoor.com Page 136 Yak Map C.13, T.10 Sandy Bay Beach Club Tel: +6281337570624 www.sandbaylembongan.com Page 3 Yak Directory SugarSand Beach Club Tel: +623612099999 www.sugarsandbali.com Page 19 Yak Map P.13 Sundays Beach Club Tel: +628119421110 www.sundaysbeachclub.com Page 10-11 Yak Map G.15
Tropicola Beach Club Bali Tel: +623619343636 www.tropicola.info Page 70 SHOPS Atlas Pearls www.atlaspearls.com.au Page 63 Yak Map J.4, U.10 Bamboo Blonde www.bambooblonde.com Page 33 Yak Map R.8, U.11 Bambusee www.bambusee.com Page 23 Biasa www.biasagroup.com Page FIC Yak Map V.12 Deus Ex Machina www.deuscustoms.com Page 2-3 Yak Map O.8 Hatten Wines Bali Tel: +623614721377 www.hattenwines.com Page 20 Yak Map G.12 Hi Sugars Bali Tel: +6282247655656 www.hisugars.com Page 4 Yak Directory John Hardy Tel: +62361469888 www.johnhardy.com Page 13 Yak Map B.16 Multi Bintang Tel: +623617420712 www.multibintang.co.id Page 147 Paul Ropp Tel: +62361701202/730212/730023/974369 /8496908 www.paulropp.com Page BC Yak Map S.8 Periplus www.periplus.com Page 153 Philip Lakeman Ceramic Tel: +62361281440 www.lakemanceramic.com Page 151 Sensatia Botanicals Tel: +6236323260 www.sensatia.com Page 31 Yak Map P.7 Warisan Furniture Tel: +62361421752 www.warisan.com Page 46
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last word
With a nod to Vanity Fair, we've opted to close this issue with the Proust Questionnaire, which has its origins in a parlour game popularized by Marcel Proust. He believed that in answering these questions the subject reveals his or her true nature. We put Skull Shop owner Rhett Hutchence to the test. photo: oscar munar.
skull it.
What is your idea of perfect happiness? A roof over my head, warmth, health, means to get by, and someone to share life with. What is your greatest fear? Relapse. What is the trait you most deplore in yourself? Indifference in some matters. What is the trait you most deplore in others? Dishonesty. Which living person do you most admire? Bernie Sanders. What is your greatest extravagance? Eating out breakfast, lunch and dinner. What is your current state of mind? Chilled. What do you consider the most overrated virtue? Justice. On what occasion do you lie? When not to hurt more. What do you most dislike about your appearance? My bald patch. The work of the devil. Which living person do you most despise? Colin Thomas Diamond, the man who stole and sold my brothers intellectual property-rights. What is the quality you most like in a man? Chivalry. 154
What is the quality you most like in a woman? Expression of feelings and communication. Which words or phrases do you most overuse? She'll be right mate. What or who is the greatest love of your life? Travel. When and where were you happiest? Two to 10 years old, Hong Kong. Which talent would you most like to have? A magician’s. If you could change one thing about yourself, what would it be? Smoking. What do you consider your greatest achievement? Discovering I can be an artist. If you were to die and come back as a person or a thing, what would it be? A deadly virus that attacks the 1%. Where would you most like to live? Bali ticks most of the boxes. What is your most treasured possession? The family photos. What do you regard as the lowest depth of misery? Addiction. What is your favourite occupation? Travelling artist.
What is your most marked characteristic? Humour. What do you most value in your friends? Loyalty. Who are your favourite writers? Douglas Adams, Bill Bryce, Chuck Palahniuk. Who is your hero of fiction? Bond, James Bond. Which historical figure do you most identify with? William Burroughs. Who are your heroes in real life? My brother Michael. What are your favourite names? Banjo and Toxey (male). Max and Monty (female). What is it that you most dislike? That as humans, we cannot coexist without greed and war, and that we have fucked up our planet. What is your greatest regret? Arguing with and not seeing my brother two days before he passed. How would you like to die? Older and peacefully (not screaming). What is your motto? Rise above it. www.facebook.com/skullbali