ROLLS-ROYCE ENTHUSIASTS’ CLUB
THE PURSUIT OF EXCELLENCE
BAREFOOT PHILOSOPHY Thierry Rabotin
SHOE DESIGNER THIERRY Rabotin arrived in Italy
process. “The way we work is based on more than
in 1985 with a vision – to create shoes that put
30 years’ experience,” says Karl. “For example,
timeless, understated elegance and comfort above
we make our own lasts – the model on which
high fashion and passing fads. The French designer
a shoemaker works. They’re the base of everything.
chose Parabiago, a municipality near Milan, as his
We are one of the few who use artisans, we go
base. The region’s shoe-making craftsmanship is
to the local last makers and sit with them, adding
widely recognised as being among the finest in the
a little here and taking a bit off there.”
world, and luxury brands such as Louboutin and Chanel also do most of their manufacturing there.
“Giovanna Ceolini, our partner, tries them on to
Thierry Rabotin’s luxury comfort shoes – from
see if she likes them,” says Karl. “Based on this
elegant peep-toe wedges to versatile pumps –
we develop the next collection.” These shoes are
are designed with such care that they are said to
stocked in more than 50 countries and have a loyal
give the sensation of walking barefoot. The leather
following of professional women who will pay
is sourced from the best tanneries in Italy, while the
a premium for comfortable shoes that serve them
extra-soft memory foam used for padding comes
well in the office and out. “They’re not for young
from the US and the shoes are assembled in the
girls,” says Karl. “It’s a shoe you buy for your
brand’s own factory.
own pleasure – you like it because it feels good
“Each pair of shoes is a fine balance between form and function,” says Karl Schlecht, Thierry Rabotin’s business partner and the “philosopher”
but people will not know that it’s a comfort shoe. It’s like a cashmere sweater.” Thierry Rabotin often works in close
behind the brand. “But the performance of the
collaboration with its customers who might come
shoe always comes first.”
up with specific requirements. “Over the years,
The “sacchetto” technique used by the brand
we’ve specialised in made-to-order footwear,” says
requires nearly 200 production stages for each pair
Karl. “We can adjust colours and heel heights as
of shoes and guarantees a particularly comfortable
requested.” And the use of artisanal workshops
product. This traditional method makes the shoes
means that a one-off pair can be produced quickly
lighter and better cushioned, and allows the
and efficiently.
foot to move more freely. “Sacchetto had nearly
260 THE PURSUIT OF EXCELLENCE
After this work is done, a trial pair is produced.
The care and attention that Thierry Rabotin
disappeared by the 1990s,” explains Karl, “but
and his team put into their shoes is clearly paying
when we started to develop the luxury comfort
off and plans are afoot to hone the manufacturing
concept it was an obvious choice because it
process even further. As Karl says: “We have the
produces soft, flexible and lightweight footwear.”
entire supply chain under our control in order to
Each shoe’s journey from sketchbook to
make sure that the high-quality shoes we make
shoe box is long and involves many hands, so
are the best they can possibly be.”
knowledge and care are vital at every stage of the
— www.thierryrabotin.us
ELEGANT ATTIRE
261