2 | ON THE COVER
Editor-in-Chief/ Creative Director Design Production/ Typography Contributing Fashion Editor Contributing Technology Editor Contributing Art Editor
Jacqueline Carlisle Samm Jordan Vanessa Voltolina Erich Zainzinger Madelaine Lutterworth
Contributing Architecture and Design
Karyn Linnell
Logo Design
Sunny Fong
Site Services
Mychol Scully
ON THE COVER
Paper Cuts Afternoon project by Thomas Modeen
ISSUE 002
| 3
Think magazine’s second issue called for an in depth glimpse not only into the aesthetic value of design but how the function of a product can make an impact after it’s been disguarded. Conscious shoppers are happily educating intelligent choices are being offered. What we wear, build, or drive is now dependent upon other factors that impact our lives. Will this dress end up in a landfill, will my vehicle expel too much omissions? Is my house healthy? This issue aptly called function takes a look at what we need to function and how it’s possible to do that sustainably. Hetty Rose a cobbler dedicated to giving women beautiful well fitting handmade shoes whilst providing a quality product and
IN THIS
ISSUE
themselves on intelligent purchasing as more
quality service is determined to educate her clients by re-using vintage Japanese kimonos. As well as Ikan an architect consulting firm that guides developers through the ease of building sustainably long before it was a growing trend. Ajna a clothing designer also on a quest for ethical elegance inspired by nature designed her latest collection based upon the Banaue landscapes. Her mission is to see mills convert to making ethical fabrics therefore being the only standard available in the fashion industry. We continue to follow the growth of wearable technology by reporting on clothing that brings you messages via light. And last but not least we take a look at Thomas Modeen an artist
Fashion connecting to nature hetty rose
4
Technology lighting up
16
Art cutting away
23
Architecture building the future
29
using paper to express pictures of significance. The functionality is just as important as the aesthetics in these times, we need to have a greater understanding of impact shopping and make wiser choices that will not only fulfil our visual appetite but also lessen landfills already swelling heaps of disposable goods.
Connecting to Nature Ajna’s designer Beryl Man talks about her collection, fabrics and her worldview. Designer Beryl Man, founder of Ajna, is all about connecting with
designs use more draping, more depth of the shapes and steps of
nature. She aspires for her to have her label of environmentally
darts,” she says. She has also added more textures and contrast of
friendly and chic aesthetic fashions act as an escape for those who
hard and soft visuals using drop-needles knitting technique.
wear it. Despite all of the new sustainable materials that have hit the market, Man, a Hong Kong native, was handpicked by Donna Karan to
Man still considers one hundred percent organic cottons the most
work at her label upon graduation from the Royal College of Art
important sustainable material. “We will make such a huge impact
in 1994. There, Man worked on her craft, and later was employed
to the environment if we change the way of conventional farming
by Hussein Chalayan at Tse Cashmere and Calvin Klein before
practices,” she says. “Currently, a million tons are traded every
returning to lead Karan’s knitwear department. In 2007, the
year. Organic Cotton also is easier for consumers to understand
designer forged out on her own to find Ajna, her very own label.
through mainstream marketing. So for me, this is the foundation of the collection.”
Ajna’s spring 2008 collection featured an ethic chic bohemian vibe, with fabrics from India’s hand weaving industry. The Himalayan
Ajna’s designer loves “Ahimsa Silk,” a kind of wild natural silk that
Mountains inspired the fall 2008 styles, with cashmere made in
harvest without harming the silk worms and give irregular, natural
Nepal.
and raw looks to each piece. Her second favorite is biodegradable viscose, a kind of rayon processed in a ‘close loop’ and recycled
“I regard my signatures as artisanal knitwear through innovative
spinning method derived from wood pulp rather than petroleum.
drapings, original stitches and knitting techniques, new shapes
Her collections rely on mixing a variety of materials with different
inspired by nature’s forms and shapes, and new dimensions of
weights and textures, as well as experimenting and playing with
sculptural shapes,” Man says. This way, the designer can work with
contrasts.
artisans in Peru, Nepal and around the globe to support fair trade practices. Her goal is to teach them to advance their techniques in
THE FUTURE: CHINA
order to compete for the global economies. For her other pieces,
Now that many labels are offering gorgeous designs from organic
including the wovens and cut jerseys, “I want to achieve a very
and sustainable materials, Man thinks that this is a good foundation.
organic look not only using organic materials, but constructed in
However, “the deeper challenges are how to work with the sewers,
an abstract, sculptural way. They should be giving us a sense of
knitters and makers in a higher standard of working condition,
‘freedom’ and to feel amazing wearing it and not be constrained—
particularly in the third world developing countries where people
meaning that they are lofty, roomy, and loose.”
deserve their wages and really inject dollars into their communities/
CARVING NEW COLLECTIONS
country,” she says. Also, a challenge still exists in how to teach this
For the past 20 years, a guiding light for Beryl Man has been fashion
the needs of the global market.
icon and idol Yohji Yamamoto. His elegant, serene, intelligent, and
In the future, Man also thinks that more conventional textiles
well-crafted styles exude a yin-yang, East meets West balance
mills in Italy and China will offer and produce more varieties of
that has always appealed to her. “It’s just everything I love and
organic materials with higher quality and better textiles design
feel connected to,” she says. While freedom and balance may
and choices. “It is my dream to see that everything provided from
be pervading themes for Man, her spring 2010 collection will be
conventional mills to luxury and high fashion designers is organic
distinct from previous collections.
and sustainable, produced in an environmentally friendly way,” she
community to produce higher quality products to compete with
says. “At this point, nothing would have to be defined as organic or Spring 2010 is inspired by Nepal’s Banau landscape in which
not because everything would be!”
mountains are carved into steps by the indigenous peoples in order
Man also has faith in China. She says that while China has the
to adapt to nature with the wisdom to solve the problems, Man
reputation of being a polluted, minimum wage country, many
tells Think. “The main design objective is ‘carve,’ which means the
products are made here, and the people are powerful
Connecting To Nature TEXT: VANESSA VOLTOLINA - contributing fashion editor consumers who buy the most famous luxury labels from the Western world. “I can envision the changes, the cleaning, way,” she says.
VISION THROUGH EXPERIENCE Man says it is her life experiences that have helped her evolve as a designer. “Spreading a message through fashion is such a powerful tool to exhibit and express ones point of view, particularly my vision towards transformative lifestyles, seeing things differently, and wearing clothes in a different manner,” she says. Man stresses that we have entered a very important time and era in the economy, environment, and politics, which are facing challenges that are impacting us all collectively. “Fashion reflects the time in which we are living. And when everything is very connected, I want to devote all of my time and energy to focus on designing and making something new, meaningful and something that makes us feel very happy by wearing the item.” In the future, Man would love to collaborate with Horst Rechelbacher, either of Aveda or Intelligent Nutrients, because both carry a vision of beauty: Intelligent Nutrients on the inside with organic food and supplements, and Aveda on the outside with hair, makeup and fragrances. Ideally, Man would like to produce a beauty editorial using all organic and sustainable materials, or a fashion show, since this would be a complete vision. Collaboration with Vegan show designers may also be in her future, she says: “It would complete the looks.”
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Hetty Rose “If the style is versatile and the shoes have been made to measure, in theory the shoes will be wearable forever.” Hetty Rose
HOW DID YOU ARRIVE AT MAKING SHOES? I have been very interested in shoes and design from a very small age. My mother says I noticed shoes and would talk about them a lot when I was a child. I am interested in their construction and how you can make a design into reality, it’s like wearable sculpture. I like to experiment and be free with my creativity. Prior to my footwear degree, I spent my art foundation year, after high school, de-constructing shoes and experimenting. This led to the degree at London College of Fashion where I explored more ways of creating the kind of shoes I wanted to and ultimately shaped the direction I took towards bespoke footwear. The concept of the company has grown from research and development conducted during my degree. I was travelling in Japan 6 years ago and came across some tiny shops selling vintage kimono fabrics. These fabrics have already been un-picked and are panels, which lend themselves to shoe patterns. I left my clothes in Japan and filled up my case with kimono fabrics and started to experiment with them in my workshop. I love it when I find a really beautiful piece of fabric. As the fabrics are one-offs they cannot be re-produced, so when I find something gorgeous, I have to do it justice by making it into something really wonderful. I go back each year to source more fabrics and be inspired by the beauty of the country.
DID YOU STUDY TO BE A COBBLER, IF SO WHERE? I did a 4-year degree at London College of Fashion in Footwear and a gap year spent with shoe designer Georgina Goodman in London whilst studying.
HOW LONG HAVE YOU BEEN MAKING SHOES? Around 3 years
WHAT WAS YOUR INSPIRATION FOR CREATING THIS
COLLECTION? I keep everything that inspires me or that could be useful. The idea of wasting something which could be transformed into something functional and beautiful is the reason I do what I do. Objects, places, shapes, colours and dreamt-up ideas inspire me. Buildings, colours, shapes and shadows, I can be inspired by many things.
ARE YOUR SHOES ENTIRELY MADE FROM RECYCLED MATERIALS? As much as possible; the uppers are recycled fabrics, where I can, I source vintage leather for the linings. The rest of the components are ethical and local to the studio.
IS THE SUSTAINABLE GROWING?
ACCESSORIES
MARKET
Yes massively I believe it to be one of the fastest growing markets. The move to fashionable sustainable clothing and accessories made accessible both on the high street and online has been very noticeable over the last few years. I think people are more aware of what they are buying, where it comes from, who made it and how. The first market to really impact from these purchasing habits was the food
Hetty Rose TEXT: JACQUELINE CARLISLE - editor
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develop the brand, be reliable and build credibility through providing a quality product, excellent service with definitive branding. By creating an experience for customers, I aim to gain loyal customers and buyers. I aim to design the Hetty Rose trans-seasonal collections with the ethos of making a collection which has a typical signature style to be recognisable as the Hetty Rose brand. This will enable customers to grow alongside the company and be loyal and enjoy each collection. market, now fashion, cars, housing and looking to the future, almost everything will be affected by the consumer change in attitudes and buying habits. The shift towards eco/ethical sensitive products and production is a strong market; retailers know they can make money from this shift. By offering eco/ethical products retailers are appealing to the market and leading the way. It makes sense to give the consumers what they want and what they will want. It’s about predicting the future and the future says we all have to take responsibility for what we produce, use and dispose.
DO YOU HAVE A CERTAIN WOMAN IN MIND WHEN YOU’RE MAKING SHOES? Occasionally, I think of my clients and the kind of thing they would like combined with my own tastes. The kind of women who have shoes made for them are the type of ladies who appreciate something hand made and unique. They love art, timeless fashion and the feeling of having something especially made for them. They love to invest in shoes and accessories which they will use for a long time. They also feel good about the ecological sensibilities attached to re-using vintage Japanese kimono fabrics to make something new and beautiful. The designs are simple yet provocative, with colour being the overriding attraction to the shoes. The collection is trans-seasonal and consists of signature style, peep hole styles with hand stitching detail, simple silhouettes and functional elegance. The uppers are all made using vivid vintage kimono fabrics; these are colourful, eyecatching and get you noticed. The function and point of the brand concerns the customer, the design and creativity both the designer and consumer believe in.
ANY PLANS TO GROW YOUR COMPANY? I plan to steadily build up my business and profile. Through ongoing research of the market and materials, I aim to
I like to collaborate with other designer/makers to create something really unique, and I would like to carry on doing this within many varied disciplines. I would like to expand to a shop in the UK and then abroad in Europe, US and Japan.
WHERE CAN WE BUY YOUR SHOES? Online at www.hettyrose.co.uk and directly with the designer.
STOCKISTS: A selection of the collection is stocked at exclusive footwear boutiques; Last Boutique, 3 Pool Valley, Brighton, BN1 1NJ. www.lastfootwear.com Cerise Boutique, 94 Columbia Road, London, E2 7QB. www.ceriseuk.com Louis De Gama Boutique, 5 Cheshire Street, London E2 6ED. www.louisdegama.com Vase Boutique, 1-7-7 Kamimeguro, Meguro-ku, Tokyo, Japan. Eve Boutique, 21 Club Street #02-10, 069410, Singapore www.eve.com.sg
ONLINE BOUTIQUES FEATURING HETTY ROSE: The Natural Store; www.thenaturalstore.co.uk Che Camille: www.checamille.com
Clothing which suddenly lights up, never misses the surprised effect from unsuspecting bystanders.
Turn signal jacket by Leah Bechley Assistant professor at M I T
Lighting Up TEXT: ERICH ZAINZINGER - contributing technology editor
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Lighting Up COLOR AND LIGHT
Changing ones outfit like a chameleon is the dream of fashion
promotional companies to create high impact, surprising attention outfit for events, promotion and stage shows.
designers and fashionistas alike. Colors play an important role in our lives, any objects we buy can reflect our mood and personality when selecting the color of a product.
Philips has developed the most advanced textile illumination technology available today called Lumalive. Soft, bendable textile displays, attached underneath a specially developed garment is able
Light symbolizes not only life and happiness but also provides a sense of feeling safe, protected (by light). Small children often need light to
to create colorful light pattern, text, logos and short animations at any place in a dress or jacket.
feel safe in the bedroom when they prepare to sleep. Light is essential for life.
The Lumalive illuminated textile is soft enough to follow the movement of the garment, making it invisible when switched off but
Without light in shopping malls, offices and even advertising, life
‘taking people by surprise’ (Philips tag line) when the textile lights up.
would come to a standstill after sunset like in the dark ages of our history. We need street lights and lights on our vehicles to navigate around safely.
The advanced Philips Lumalive technology can be found on exhibitions, promotion events and commercial activities, available via selected event organizing companies in Europe and the US.
Light radiates a magical power, is used to create an atmosphere in which we feel good and secure, two elements which are very closely connected to our clothing as well; give protection and being used to express our mood.
LIGHT FOR LIFE
While products like the Lumalive technology is rather complex and too expensive for the consumer market, simpler but very helpful applications using light emitting textiles have come to the market
So it is no wonder why illuminated textiles have such a great appeal in fashion as well as the functional clothing area. Two early adapters in the clothing industry, one in the advertising/ event industries and the other one in the functional clothing market of fitness apparel started to make use of the benefits of merging active
to address safety needs for fitness enthusiasts such as cyclists and runners. Sadly enough these two categories of fitness activities are much too often victims of tragic accidents in low light conditions like fog or after sunset.
illumination technology with textiles. Although reflective clothing has been in the market for many years, Active illumination means the light can be controlled via on/off, allowing adjustment of light intensity as well as color changes. Passive illumination, like it is used in safety vests for example, is made of soft,
their look is detached from being fashionable, and has the earlier mentioned disadvantage to become active when hit by another light source.
reflective plastic ribbons sewn on a garment. Reflective technology needs another (active) light-source to light up, to reflect and amplify incoming light.
Textile illumination offers a huge improvement in fitness apparel, especially for activities that intersect with public traffic like cyclists and runners in dark areas like parks or side streets.
TAKING PEOPLE BY SURPRISE
Clothing which suddenly lights up, showing ornaments, light pattern or animations never misses the surprised effect from unsuspecting bystanders. This effect of magical surprise was picked up by
Various fitness apparel brands started to offer jackets, shorts, head, wrist or ankle bands with integrated LED light embedded into soft textiles to make them suitable for wear, comfort, and looking good.
Powered by small, button cell batteries, the illumination effect can
for our smart clothing by harvesting electrical energy during daylight
last for 20 or more hours.
via integrated flexible solar cells and give back the light energy for safety or for a functional purpose after sunset.
Illuminated technology enable clothing is capable of contributing to more safety in outdoor activities like cycling as the design concept
Chameleon fashion might still be a dream for now but important steps
from Leah Buechley, Assistant Professor at MIT demonstrates. Her
have been made in this direction, making some valuable inroads by
DIY project called ‘Turn signal Jacket’ adds next to light elements,
enabling surprisingly attractive event outfits and to serve as safety
embedded into the back of a cycling jacket in form of arrows pointing
enhancement for fitness apparel.
left and right, motion sensors integrated into the jackets sleeves. www.talk2myshirt.com When the cyclist raises the respective arm, the motion sensor sends the command to the corresponding arrow element to indicate clearly the intention to change lanes or turn left/right.
BRIGHT FUTURE
Integrating active light elements into clothing does not only surprise people, it has the advantage to be an extension of our body, close to it, attractive and protective. It is more convenient as no additional safety light devices have to be attached (and often misplaced or lost). It will enable us to alter our outfit without changing clothes, adjusting our outfit ‘on the fly’ to adapt to different environmental conditions. Technology enhanced clothing of the future will generate the power
paper cuts afternoon
Cutting Away “The Paper cut Collection is an (still ongoing) attempt to fuse the more tactile (hands-on) crafts to those using computers.�
paper cuts shadow
Cutting Away TEXT: MADELAINE LUTTERWORTH - contributing technology editor
| 25
Thomas Modeen a partner in the firm Small
an organic appearance taking inspiration from
Architecture took it upon himself to combine the
the ocean, geography and architecture but
technical styling’s of architectural construction
adhere to Dr. Modeen’s training in structure.
and art in a series simply entitled Paper Cuts.
The idea is always to change the viewers
This complex yet playful expression of moving
relationship with something as simple as
sculptures uses paper to create
paper, the history of paper
methodological
by
invented for communication
laser cutting it into technical
stems back to A.D. 105 China or
windows, strips and shadows.
even earlier as the information
The
is a little unclear, Thomas
pieces
works
are
haunting
ethereal works of art that force
Modeen’s
the viewer to look deeper and
not deviated from its original
deeper yet the simplicity is
intention only this time his use
enough to warrant satisfaction
is to communicate a feeling or a
with what you’ve seen. Finnish
mood to demonstrate a different
born UK/US trained designer
direction for paper. The thin
and architect Dr. Modeen’s
magical strips draw you into a
natural
training
journey of visual delights with
led him to experiment with
colours, archipelagos swerves
paper in an understated and
and curves Exhibits were held
talent
and
paper
series
has
dramatic way that only the Scandinavians
at LaFontaine Centre for Contemporary Arts,
can accomplish. Using a computer to map out
Bahrain, Dar Al-Funoon Gallery, Kuwait, and
patterns and later hand weaving the layers the
Asia House, London during the period of 2008-
visual affect are rich in texture. The pieces have
2009.
paper cuts afternoon
bubbles with shadows and skull
THINK
Palm Jebel Ali Towers, Dubai
Building The Future
Ikan Consulting, LLC takes architecture to new levels of innovation through sustainable design I walk down a city block and can almost hear the earth shuddering under the pavement as another piece of land has been wrestled away from nature by the hands of modern convenience. Commerce, industry and progression beckon, and we disrupt another ecological cycle as our buildings gorge themselves on resources and energy in order to produce a pound of product and a ton of waste. We are more than willing to justify the means by our ends. While the earth loves mankind and its creativity, it groans under the weight of our selfishness. The average citizen wants to protect the environment, but not if it requires any significant time, money, or lifestyle changes. Believe it or not, being kind to the earth does not mean returning to the Middle Ages. Imagine having the insight needed to create beautiful contemporary structures that provide a healthy environment for their users while dramatically reducing the ecological
Building The Future TEXT: KARYN LINNELL - contributing architecture and design editor
impact to the earth.
| 31
Five years ago two
in Energy and Environmental Design (LEED)
entrepreneurs, Jacob Kandefer, 29, and DeAnna
Green Building Rating System, Ikan has brought
Butler, 28, formed Ikan Consulting, LLC, with
its industry knowledge to many diverse projects
the vision to take their knowledge of highly
nationally and internationally.
effective yet environmentally friendly building
includes the visually stunning Palm Jebel Ali
practices to the world. Working with designers,
Towers in Dubai, the sustainable Energy City in
architects, engineers and construction teams,
Qatar, the Frito Lay building in Rochester, NY,
Ikan Consulting, LLC steers its clients away from
and the award-winning YMCA Camp Greenkill
the traditional methods of designing and building
Lodge in Orange County, NY. Along with the
toward energy-efficient, green practices. From
Frito Lay building, the beautiful YMCA Camp
the methods of construction to the energy
Greenkill Lodge is LEED Gold Certified, and
sources and materials used, the impact to the
utilizes such features as passive solar design,
Its portfolio
Facility Project Management, Dubai
environment is significantly lessened both
tankless hot water heaters, native landscaping
throughout the building process and over the
requiring no irrigation, and recycled materials
course of time. While the final product displays
including denim, wheat and paper money.
the beauty and strength essential to great architecture, individuals and businesses who
Combining intelligence, economics and an
take advantage of the experience and insight of
environmental conscience, Ikan Consulting,
the team at Ikan create structures that are gentler
LLC, is leading the way in new developments that
to the earth, significantly more cost effective,
allow our modern societies to achieve their full
structurally secure, and healthier for the people
potential in industry, technology, and commerce
who live and work inside of them.
without making another destructive dent in our
Based in New York, Ikan has been highly
global ecosystem. As I gaze at these powerful
successful in fulfilling its vision.
Accredited
and glorious images of progressive architecture,
by the Unites States Green Building Council
I can hear the earth breath a sweet sigh of relief.
for its thorough knowledge of the Leadership
Energy City, Qatar
www.mothestudio.com