Revista This is Ecuador September 2012 by One for One

SEPTEMBER 2012

THIS IS ECUADOR

THE MOST COMPLETE GUIDE OF ECUADOR SINCE 1968

www.thisisecuador.com

SEPTEMBER 2012

No 506

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PUBLISHED MONTHLY BY GUSTAVO VALLEJO P. Director

THE MOST COMPLETE GUIDE OF ECUADOR SINCE 1968

SEPTEMBER 2012

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CAROLINA VALLEJO Cover CRISTINA VALLEJO Editor MARÍA ELENA MALO Sales Director ventas@thisisecuador.com 09 822 7499 BELEN MENA Design SOLUCIONES GRAFICAS D&G Layout IMPRENTA MARISCAL Printing

This is Ecuador is protected by law as intellectual property. Registration No. 9, page 3422; February 25, 1969. Total or partial reproduction as well as the use of photographs must be authorized by Gustavo Vallejo Pérez.

Quito: Whymper 777 y 6 de Diciembre Phone: (593 2) 290-8200 / 255-2177 Guayaquil: Padre Aguirre 104 y Malecón Ed. Fortín 4to. Piso Phone: (593 9) 858-4053 info@thisisecuador.com www.exploringecuador.com

Visit our website and virtual magazine at:

www.thisisecuador.com 4

www.thisisecuador.com

This Month’s Cover Illustration inspired by hummingbirds, commonly found in various ecosystems in Ecuador, including urban areas. These amazing birds live all throughout the American continent, and nowhere else. In Andean America, they are commonly called “quindes” (native Quichua language). The largest number of hummingbird species is found in the humid forests of Venezuela, Colombia, Ecuador and Peru. Ecuador and Colombia have the world record with more than 130 species each. For more information, see page 22.

Editor’s Note This is Ecuador is a complimentary guide. It should not be sold by any means. All of the tourist sites that appear on this magazine have been visited by our editors. Moreover, our commercial staff has previously evaluated the tourist services that appear on our publication. If any of these services does not meet your expectations, please let us know. Read our entire guide at www.thisisecuador.com. You can learn about our wonderful country and book premium services through our e-guide. Comments/suggestions: info@thisisecuador.com Phone number in Quito: (593 2) 290- 8200 We appreciate your opinion.

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CONTENTS

Welcome to Ecuador General Travel Information Land Distances Road Map Embassies & Consulates List Whale- Watching Season Made in Ecuador Native Cultures Map National Protected Areas Map This Month’s Remark Quito from the Sky A Birder’s Paradise Tourism News

6 8 10 11 12 13 14 16 17 18 19 22 23 24 26

Galapagos General information Map This Month in Galapagos Premium Services

28 29 33 35

Coast General information Ecuadorian Coastline Map Premium Hotels Guayaquil This Month: Culture & Entertainment Map Premium Hotels Restaurants

38 39 41 43 44 51 52 54 58

Andes General information 60 This Month’s Recommended 61

Premium Haciendas 62 Northern Andes 64 Map 65 Premium Services 67 Quito 68 This Month: Culture & Entertainment 77 Premium Services 79 Premium Hotels 81 Map 84 Restaurants 90 Food & Drinks 93 Central Andes 96 Map 97 Community-based Tourism 98 Premium Services 100 Southern Andes 102 Map 103 Cuenca 105 Cuenca’s surroundings 109 Map 110 Premium Hotels 112 Restaurants 114 Premium Services 115 Loja 116 Premium Hotels 117 Map 118 Amazonia General information Important tips and recommendations Premium Lodging

121 122

Initiative Yasuni- ITT Ecuador by Train

122 124

120

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Ecuador has the greatest biodiversity per area in the world! In a study by Conservation International, Ecuador ranked among the 17 “Mega Diverse” countries, alongside the United States, China, Australia, Brazil and Mexico. With 9.2 species per km2, it occupies the first place in the world in regards to species per area. The richness of Ecuador lies in its DIVERSITY, both natural and cultural. Ecuador has 4 diverse and unique regions: the Amazon Rainforest, the highland Andes, the Coast, and the Galapagos Archipelago. These four regions are subdivided into provinces. Besides its exuberant biodiversity, Ecuador is home to an impressive variety of ethnic groups, including communities which still practice ancient cultural traditions (for more information see page 16).

LOCATION: Ecuador is one of the smallest countries in America. It lies on both the Northern and the Southern Hemispheres and is divided by the Equator, thus the name of the country. It borders Colombia (North), Peru (South and East), and the Pacific Ocean (West).

AREA: about 270.670 km2 or 168.186 square miles. 6

DISTANCE FROM NORTH TO SOUTH: 1.081 km or 672 miles.

POPULATION: approximately 14 million.

LANGUAGE: The first language is Spanish, however, most of the indigenous population speaks Quichua. There are 18 different languages among native communities.

PROVINCES: - Galapagos - Coast: Esmeraldas, Manabi, Los Rios, Guayas, Santa Elena, El Oro. - Andes: Carchi, Imbabura, Pichincha, Santo Domingo de los Tsáchilas, Cotopaxi, Tungurahua, Bolivar, Chimborazo, Cañar, Azuay and Loja. - Amazonia: Sucumbios, Napo, Orellana, Pastaza, Morona Santiago and Zamora Chinchipe.

RELIGION: 95% Catholic. CURRENCY: American Dollar. The Ecuadorian government has also produced a series of local coins that have the same value as the U.S. coins (which are also accepted). Banks are open from 9h00 to 17h00 and on Saturdays only half day. Money exchange is offered every day in main hotels.

GOVERNMENT:

Democratic. Current President is Economist Rafael Correa Delgado.

CLIMATE: The climate throughout the country ranges from tropical equatorial rain in the Amazon to perpetual snow on the top of the mountains. Cities in the highlands have temperatures that vary from 50ºF to 70ºF, while coastal cities’ temperatures vary from 60ºF to 80ºF during the day. The weather in the jungle is constant: rainy, humid and warm. The Galapagos Islands are sunny and warm during the months of December-May; the temperature drops from June to November. WHAT TO WEAR: • In Quito and the highlands the weather is very unpredictable. A common saying is that you can live the four seasons in one day: from intense sun to hail. One needs to look out the window before deciding what to wear each day. During June, July and August the weather is sunnier but windy. During the rest of the year you need warmer clothing such as what you would wear during the fall. A raincoat or jacket is useful all year long, since at night it gets pretty chilly.

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• Guayaquil and other coastal cities: wear summer clothing all year round. During the rainy months, December to May, the weather is still very warm. During the months of June through November the weather is cloudy and a bit colder. Bring along a light jacket. • Galapagos: wear comfortable walking shoes and casual clothing. Shorts, t-shirts and summer clothing will be just fine. Don’t forget a hat, a camera, sun block, and a bathing suit. During the months of June to November the weather is cloudy and a bit colder. Bring along a light jacket. • Amazon or Jungle: wear clothing suitable for rain. If you can get yourself a raincoat (poncho), take it with you, as well as several sets of light pants and long sleeve shirts. Shorts are less useful because of the insects and abundant vegetation that you will walk through on your excursions. A hat, rubber boots and insect repellent are also a must.

TOURIST VISA: Visitors can stay up to 90 days without a visa.

TAXI RATES: Approximately $3 to $6 per ride from the airport to the city. These rates vary among the main cities. TRANSPORTATION: Main cities (Guayaquil, Quito and Cuenca)

have local airports serviced by the local airlines: Tame, Aerogal and Lan, in addition to international airlines. Bus lines offer land transportation where you can just jump on the next bus leaving to your destination. Each city has its own terminal, with frequent departures to each one of the different provinces of Ecuador. (For more information see page 8).

SUGGESTIONS FOR A PLEASANT STAY While the authorities are clearly making significant efforts, it’s necessary to take some precautions. We suggest some recommendations: • Don’t walk at night in badly lit areas. • Leave documentation and valuable things in your hotel room or in the safety deposit boxes. • Carry your backpack at the front, especially if you are carrying a photo camera. • Whenever you sit at a coffee shop, restaurant, Internet cafe, phone booth or any open space, keep your things next to you. • Be aware if someone comes suspiciously too close to you. • Don’t allow any stranger to enter into your room. • It’s recommended not to visit any plaza too late at night. • If you travel on a bus, don’t receive any candy or papers from strangers. • When you are at the airport, pay special attention to your belongings.

• Be careful any time you go to an ATM; it’s better if you go during the day. • Don’t let strangers offer you accommodation. Consult a travel agency.

MOUNTAIN CLIMBING ASEGUIM is the association of mountain climbing guides of Ecuador. We recommend that if you plan to do mountain climbing at any level, you contact them to access professional and certified guides. They also offer rescue operations. Phone: (02) 222-2954, cel 099 822 363, www.aseguim.org

OFFICE OF TOURISM PUBLIC PROSECUTOR: The highest duty of the Ecuadorian Republic is to respect and support human and personal rights; they offer judicial safety to tourists who visit the country. It is free. Monday thru Friday from 8h00 to 12h00 and from 14h00 to 18h00. Quito: 02 2905-053 Guayaquil: 04 2320-685 Cuenca: 07 2844-282 Galapagos, Santa Cruz Island: 05 2526-048 Loja: 07 2572-668 Puyo: 03 2883-767 7

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GENERAL TRAVEL INFORMATION

225-7533 / 4

251-7622

284-5657

LOCAL AIRLINES 1-800 2376425 1800-842526 397-7100

268-7566/216-9023

1800-842526 1800-500800

280-0405/281-5250

262-8899

1800-842526 410-3104

1800-842526

LAND TRANSPORTATION Quitumbe:

381-4810

Carcelén:

381-4840

213-0372

382-4793 / 813

213-0314

283-5717

247-2751 255-9428/382-4751 382-4850/382-4875 222-5315/382-4831

213-0649 213-0638

282-3060 262-5895 / 262-2577 262-0963

228-9509 213-0265

257-0884

CAR RENTALS 330-0979 286-0174

Avis Rent a Car 225-4258/330-0783

BIKE RENTALS Freedom Bike Rental

600-4459/08176-2340

USEFUL NUMBERS 286-7120

/ 258-2482

256-1628

283-2132

262-4212

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10 7

138

418 321

7 Baños

8 Cuenca

428 254

529 710 236

804 710 430 661 926 852 707 286 449

332 236 250 335 291 641 190 260 479 603 353 215 473 490 287 381 576

17 Macará

18 Macas

480 228 481 716

342 439 675

283 380 660 592 163 575 386 705

317 354 592 542 195 609 314 633

134 230 511 446 163 426 272 552 468 335 509 323 706

23 Muisne

24 Nueva Loja

25 Orellana

26 Otavalo

254 319 153

468 131

155

640 800 329

207 284 683

314 616

427 465 470 448 237 140 418 515

452

941 937 499 731 581

328

612

636

689 782

284 381 661 596 314 576 418 702 613 395 659 473 856 130 340 909

683 586 311 537 616 731 515 265 519 919 456 566 300 840 637

42 Tulcán

43 Zamora

126 327

483 453

398 453 828

112 248 386 417 308 409 616 277 979 631 825 626 203 303 150 757 506 598 394 483 491 453 239 434

971

805 742 530 967

967

396 530

305 382 742 831 257 239 382 396 -

409 275 239 805

434 308 444 257

416 398 189 191 401 603 444 275 305

729 833 417 603 831 626 533 626 208 353 519 491 294 462 243 833 434 78

813 262 243 386 401

230 316 674 304 656 395 981 768 705 817 576 861 652 961 453 640 828 698 540 971 626

332 646 590 530 415 253 286 482 262 729

499 140 459 475 489 431 249 562 270 220 587 767 206 215 619 554 415 549 246 174 246 525 428 536 435

41 Tena

436 205 220 187 237 477 240 180 268 287 465 255 154 684 902 430 106 406 211 639 241 381 415 231 371 120 209 656 297 100

207 180 418 368

40 Sto.Domingo

894 634 689 654

371 525 757 576

439 411 482 462 248 191 434 540

721 557 873 240 406 554 198

165 243 561 286 294 112 189 239 698

311 406 686 622 190 604 448 732

331 428 708 644 361 439 470 749

209 330 441 499 253 491

39 San Miguel

517 236 329 449 213 224 209

38 San Lorenzo

381 246 203 768

186 224 268 496 314 415 519 100 416 491 640

621 281 801 605 830 475 208 308 163 761 510 603 399 487 496 441 243 439

481

314 379 213 113 487 525 530 353 297

547 445 379 233 670 405 465 359 197 602 150 356 401 704 488 656 549 523 546 348 232 696 577 830 864 658 120 457 234 988 525 314 499 561 411 813 -

106 215 277 674

508 675 647 449 617 399 988 590 208 565 435 394 961

288 385 665 601 318 581 427 706 617 400 664 477 860 135 344 913

782 458 144 292 329 410 603 234 646 626 209 536 598 652

37 Salinas 576 687 520 884 307 365 861

236

284 163 658 198 327 231 246 150 817

36 Rumichaca

527 362 556 357 265 300

446 267 458 517 330 761 120

562 308 105 482 653 182 151 428 408 391 493 418 366 284 330 372 410 617 113 268 330 165

166 583 250 780 178 387 956 928 664

219 689 420 219 199 236 372 510 457 332 533 120 428 506 861

278

354 369 551 310 236 770 698 512 191 491 300 721 319 463 497 287 458 199 292 647 379 186

902 767

539 710 263 254 527 497 300 366 308 864 554 126 415 174 303 705

505 597 188 324 490 463 265 418 208 830 406

111 391 327 106 307 153 432 373 300 390 204 857 112 57

790 485 171 300 362 408 605 232 557 634 211 554 631 656

640 818 347

151 281 546

150

268 280 421 240

549 928

121 339 809 541 339 319 357 493 475 577 240 654 241 549 626 981

771 339 597 710 448 278 219

790 845 908 188 263 483

35 Riobamba

105 344 488 387 365 154 220 340 637

34 Quito

763 771 845 337 659 721 556 391 830 696 873 689 639 415 825 395

612 355 448 483 332 341 287

200 210 191

180 280 522 291 315 270 319 563 325

463 523

477 356 250 520 287 249 473 566

541 305 491 527 428 801 348 721 894 406 619 979 304

33 Quinindé

689 513 698 818 653

207 212 334 103 332 202 254 375 136 291 166 223 381 365 173 583 513 460 210 305 171 659 339 490 527 341 267 219 144 675 314

524 225 763 121 505 539 355

356

100 299

625 659 411

794 662 589 659 100

866 630 661 625

884 661 589 675

381 396 569 353 171 484 348 143 509 689 128 200 541 485 337 541 324 254 332 446 420 458 508

732 842 678

240 475 613 519

509 583 770 640 482 913 656 956 861 684 587 909

32 Quevedo

132 480

775 346 630 662 456 280 225

645 346 884

491 775

189 759 937 466 132 647 456 675 411 299 356

190 387 318 583 379 277 803 731 554

632 379 472 463 348 365 310 112 308 135 704 178 307 255 270 130 840

380 491 645 866 794 647 288 524 375

481 363

301 350 632 432 512 499 529 480 288 280

599 605 423 736 380 395 762 941 380

300 421 400 602 166 576 170 489 395 919

484 381 551 587 562 860 401 780 884 465 562 856 300

199 102 340 290 163 518

329 420 566 209 675 452 380 466 529 554 559 636 128 460 512 347 182 621 523 664 481 430 206 616 316

398 388 155 383 175 347 433 472 312 593 581 559 328 375 -

453 345 486 398 339 395 189 432 277 315 523 143 173 236

31 Puyo

387 175 842 353 166 354 390 240 664 150 583 687 268 431 659 456

467 564 844 780 348 759 606 889

385 445 428 406 194 180 381 586

396 136 325 373 280 617 197

314 356 407 224 439

565 599 335 556 190 383 732 569 291

429 544 704 899 736 706 350 583 433

576 800 218 583 631 852

670 453 346 218 420 481

152

507 439 704 500 398 924 852 675

178 381 610 346 597 467 924 834 762 759 512 803 593

580 748 287

565 658 495 899 346 339 834

30 Putumayo

227 117 272 470

150 288 547 331 311

759 518 202 270 307 470 581 405 439 604 187 499 576 731

29 Portoviejo 62

343 439 348 163 332 315 106 272 318 670 361 190 220

807 228 575 609 426 364 107

216 782 961 490 152 670 494 699 500 346 380

812 529 424 544 699 486 467 631 209

364 385 347 131 556

222 314 467 199 207 180

222 318 555 248 343 107 360 596

385 310 180

28 Pedernales

27 Playas

541 445 320 544 500 807 399 331

22 Morona

347 385 411 228 469

21 Manta

637 469 500 480 163 195 163

461 392 157 371 180 351 429 494 345 597 583 566 363 380

603 291 582 371 812

729 513 244 191 473

576 686 191 961 748 178

513 413 194 200 637 455 365 160 238 582 176 320

20 Machala

368 313

379 346 133 508 686 215 198 320 351 424 439 495 423 323 301 318 347 678 171 223 369 204

362 313 330 316 133 513 216

313 139 405 346 291 383 198

19 Machachi

625 529 253 479 747 673 528 207 455 861 398 508 244 782 580

16 Loja

184 236 533 316 398 576 353 383 176 180 529 507 658 605 509

157 254 534 470 187 450 295 575 488 312 533 346 729

447

15 Latacunga

321 253 178 375

413 385 445 439 380 354 230 385 318 356 564 102 212 280 111

251 300 488 313 455 449 479 346 238 157

14 Ibarra

47 447 502 642 312 330 861

260 123 334 426 111 301 251 507 184

425

568 428 254 260 696 513 424 213 300 642 236 379

189

501 255 291 191

528 707 190 139 365 461 399 481 386 314 272 385 360 398 606

332 277 209

20 513 347 541 342 283 317 134

297 654 191 301 213 575 362 207 386 260 405 160 392 331 716 705 633 552 347 596 388 889 381 375 563 432 268 706 359 749 732 477 459 702 265

13 Huaquillas

248 335 297

321 335 413 291 111 424 295

12 Guaranda

123 260 470 253 479 661 335 313 200 228 544 444 592 542 446 180 428 224 780 290 103 291 327 177 601 233 644 622 205 368 596 537

406 501 334 696 187 178 747 926 291

11 Guayaquil

625 804 332

Travel through Ecuador with

260 613 209 260 254 534 321 253 430 250 368 194 411 320 675 660 592 511 310 555 407 844 340 334 522 391 227 665 379 708 686 436 418 661 311

271 371 613 382 406 283 413 654 425

458 468 248 283 255 426 513 450 375 673 852 641 313 455

414 225 540

272 540 468 321

368 260 130

437 304 237 272 130 382

280 237 225 458

10 271 332 189 568 157

321 338 371 277

www.budget-ec.com

10 Esmeraldas

292 416 486 304 414

6 Bahia

9 Daule

122 219 499 437

418 212 231

5 Baeza

231 499 486 280

4 Babahoyo

280 212 219 416

3 Azogues

377 280

2 Ambato

1 Aloag

377 418 122 292 138 418

CITY

LAND DISTANCES (KM)

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ROAD MAP

www.budget-ec.com

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EMBASSIES & CONSULATES Argentina

Guayaquil - 593 4

Amazonas Ave. 477 & Roca Phone 2562292

Ave. Las Monjas N.10 & Carlos Arosemena Edif. Hamburgo P.B. Phone: 2208777 - 769

Cuenca - 593 7

Gaspar de Villarroel E9-53 & Av. de Los Shyris Phone: 2469700 República Del Salvador 1082 & Naciones Unidas / Phone: 2276145 / 2273910 / 2273338

Circunvalación Sur 718 & Guayacanes (Urdesa) / P: 2384886

Amazonas N39-123 & José Arizaga Phone: 2277000 Av. Amazonas N41-53 & UNP Edificio Eurocenter 3rd floor Ph: 2455499 / Fax: 2277672

C.C. Dicentro Locales 33-34 Ph: 2277065 / 6017484

Chile

Juan Pablo Sanz 3617 & Amazonas Edif. Xerox / Phone: 2453327

Ave. 9 de Octubre & Malecón Edif. La Previsora 23th floor Of. 2303 / Phone: 2562-995

Colombia

Atahualpa 955 & República Edificio Digicom Phone: 2458012

Francisco de Orellana, Edificio WTC Torre B / Phone: 2630674

Costa Rica

Javier Arauz III y Germán Alemán Phone: 2252330 / Fax: 2252330

Egypt

Tarqui E4-56 & 6 de Diciembre Phone: 2225240 / 2509501

France

General Leonidas Plaza 104 & Patria Phone 2943800

José Mascote 909 & Hurtado Phone: 2328442

Gran Colombia 661 Mezanine Phone: 2837693

Germany

Naciones Unidas Edif. City Plaza, 14th floor / Phone: 2970820

Ave. Las Monjas #10 & Carlos Julio Arosemena Edif. Berlin / Ph: 2206867 - 8

Bolivar 918 & Benigno Malo Phone: 2822783 / 2838836

Great Britain

Naciones Unidas Edif. City Plaza 14th floor / Phone: 2970800 / 801

Gral. Cordova 623 & Padre Solano Phone: 2560400 / 2563850

Israel

Av. Coruña E25-58 & San IgnacioEdif. Atana 5th floor / Phone: 3971500 / 55

Av. 9 de Octubre 729 & Boyacá Phone: 2534503

Italy

La Isla 111 & Humberto Albornoz Phone: 2561077-4

P. Icaza 423 entre Córdoba & B. Moreno / Phone: 2568358 / 62

Japan

Amazonas Ave. N39-123 & Arízaga / Phone: 2278700

Km. 11.5 Vía Daule Phone: 2100600 ext 212

Korea

Ave. 12 de Octubre & Cordero Edif. WTC Tower B 3th floor / Ph. 2909227

Francisco de Orellana WTC Bdg. Tower B / Ph. 2630774 / 75

Mexico

Av. 6 de Diciembre N36-165 & NNUU / Phone: 2923770 / 71

Peru

República Del Salvador N34-361 & Irlanda / Phone: 2468410 / 11 / 04

Francisco de Orellana 501 Edif. Centrum 14th floor / Phone: 2280135 / 2280114

Russia

Reina Victoria 462 & Roca Phone: 2526361 / 2554510

Av. del Bombero Km. 7 1/2 vía la costa Phone: 2991853

Spain

La Pinta 455 & Amazonas Phone: 2555733 / 3226296

Velez & Tungurahua Esquina Phone: 6017460

Switzerland

Amazonas N35-17 & Juan Pablo Sanz Edif. Xerox 2nd floor / Phone: 2434949

Juan Tanca Marengo Ave. Km 1.8 Phone: 2599900 Ext. 034

U.S.A.

Avigiras E12-170 & Eloy Alfaro Phone: 3985000

9 de Octubre Ave. & García Moreno Phone: 2323570 / 2327663

Uruguay

Av. 6 de Diciembre 2816 & Paul Rivet / Phone: 2563762

Junín 114 & Malecón Phone:2311058 / Fax: 2563952

Venezuela

Ave. Amazonas 30-240 & E. Alfaro Phone: 2557209 / 2554483

Chile 329 & Aguirre Phone: 2326600 / 2326579

Austria Belgium Brazil Canada

Quito - 593 2

José A. Campos (Zaruma) 101 & García Avilés / Phone: 2310505 Gill Ramirez Dávalos 1434 y Turuhuaico / Phone: 4089054

Ave. Juan Tanca Marengo & Ave. J. Orrantea / Ph: 2158333 Ave. José Peralta & 12 de Abril Edif. Acrópolis Phone: 4103630

Gran Colombia & Luis Cordero Edif. El Dorado / Phone: 2832807

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MAIN NATURAL EVENTS WHALE- WATCHING SEASON

Humpback Whales off the Ecuadorian Coast Every year during the austral winter (June-October), humpback whales (Megaptera novaeangliae) migrate from the Antarctic to tropical waters off Ecuador and Colombia for breeding. The reason why these whales look for Ecuadorian waters to breed is because the calves need to be born in a warm environment, since they are born with a thin isolating layer. Humpback whales are dark with a great variety of white areas on the ventral part and flippers. They have the largest flippers of all the whales, almost a third part of their body’s length. With 12-15 meters in length and more than 30 tons of weight, humpbacks are the most acrobatic and spectacular of the bigger whales. They like to breach out the water or hit repetitively the surface with their flipper or flukes. It is believed that the sound produced in this form could be used for communications purposes.

Humpback whales are also well known as the singer whales during the breeding season. Males take a vertical position head down and “sing” a complex sound repertory. These songs are structured in themes and can last 20 minutes or more. Singers can repeat the song once and again for hours. All the whales around sing a similar song, although the song is changing as the season progresses. The meaning of the songs is probably related to the reproduction process. The whales that can be found off the Ecuadorian coast belong to one of six Southern hemisphere stocks that were severely exploited during the first half of the XX century. However, recent studies at the central coast off

Ecuador show that the southeastern Pacific humpback whale stock, to which Ecuadorian whales belong, is recovering significantly. During the breeding season it is possible to find these whales almost in every site along the central and northern coast of the country. Since 1994, whale watching has become a popular activity among the tourists that visit the Machalilla National Park and other sites of the Ecuadorian coast. The activity is steadily increasing, as well as the concern about the whales’ welfare. For more information about the Ecuadorian Coast see pages 38-43. Contact our sponsors on page 43 or your favorite travel agency for special whale-watching tours.

Text by: Fernando Felix. Photographs: Cristina Castro – Pacific Whale Foundation. 13

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MADE IN ECUADOR

Fine Aroma Ecuadorian Chocolate: A Delight to the Senses! Within the world of chocolate, Cacao Arriba is one of the most valuable fine aroma cacaos. This delicate fruit has been cultivated for over one hundred years in Ecuador thanks to its exquisite flavor and aroma. Although few countries in the world can offer a native cacao of such high quality as Cacao Arriba, national agriculture has reduced its allotted farm land, favoring inferior varieties or alternative crops. Facing these threats República del Cacao was born, a brand focused on 14

the production and marketing of dark chocolates made exclusively with Cacao Arriba. The development, investigation and determination of the brand is not only focused on the production of high quality chocolates, but extends into the fields and the joint effort undertaken by well over 1,800 farmers in the technification, care and improvement of farm

production and living standards of those who care for the future of Cacao Arriba. Thanks to the creation of a gathering center on the province of Los Ríos, República del Cacao, separates the seed according to its origin, to then be fermented in cherry wood drawers and sun-dried following traditional techniques, before beginning its transformation into chocolate.

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As part of the progress of Cacao Arriba, the brand has created a chocolate bar focused on the producing community of Vinces, assigning 10% of the net profits from each bar to the improvement and modernization of the lands owned by this group of farmers. The effort of República del Cacao in the commercialization of their chocolates, as well as that of Ecuadorian products of the highest quality, is made through its ChocolateBoutiques. Their main store, located in Quito, in the intersection of Reina Victoria and Joaquín Pinto streets, also offers Cacao Arriba based dishes. The promotion of the brands’ products to local and international consumers extends itself to two stores located at the international airport exits in Quito and Guayaquil, showcasing the production process, the achievements accomplished by the country’s Cacao Arriba community and the quality of the products for sale.

The endeavor and relationship of República del Cacao, the cacao farmers and its clientele is focused on the quality of its products, community development and the trust that each chocolate that reaches the final customer reflects the work and passion that a group of Ecuadorians has set for the present and future of their country. The legend of Cacao Arriba Beans The origins of the name “Arriba” given to the “Fine Aroma” Ecuadorian cacao come from a XIX

century legend that tells us about a Swiss chocolatier that while navigating along Guayas River, perceived a strong cacao scent. He felt so impressed by such special fragrance that he decided to ask some workers unloading cacao from their canoes, where does this aroma come from? They responded, “de río arriba” which means “from up the river”. Since then, this variety of cacao is worldwide known as “Arriba” becoming synonym for high quality and fine aroma cacao.

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NATIVE CULTURES ECUADOR’S MOSAIC

America, erroneously called the “new” world, has a rich and ancient cultural tradition that is known as pre-Columbian. The conquering Spaniards saw the ethnic groups that still inhabit Ecuador today as “primitive”. In fact many people have a hard time understanding Native American culture. The XVI century Spanish tried to eradicate indigenous beliefs and customs. Fortunately, many ethnic groups retain their traditional way of life and belief systems. In the colonial era, the Spaniards imposed Catholicism. To this day, many of the indigenous cultures have adopted this faith. However, they maintain their original language, dress and artistic expressions. Especially in the rain forest, many ethnic groups are still isolated and have little contact with Western culture, and to this day, they main-

tain a way of life similar to that of their ancestors from over 500 years ago. In Ecuador, when we speak of mega-diversity we speak not only of our magnificent biological world, but we also refer to the human factor. Our ethnic diversity is rich, with characteristics influenced by the natural environment of the Coast, the Highlands and the Rainforest.

THE CULTURES OF THE COAST The oldest known cultures of America lived on the Ecuadorian coast (8800 to 3500 B.C.). The cultures that subsist practically intact to this day are: the Awá, the Chachis or Cayapas and the Tsachilas or Colorados. They live in the tropical rainforest of the west Andes and possibly settled there after escaping from the Incan invasion from Peru (XV C) or from the Spaniards (XVI C).

THE AMAZONIAN CULTURES Many archeologists maintain that some of the oldest cultures (over 10,000 years old) are actually from this tropical humid rainforest, impossible to reach for many centuries. In the “cosmology” of these indigenous groups, the human being is a part of the “Amazanga” (rainforest) and the human spirit wanders in this forest every dawn. The human spirit can enter an eagle or a serpent or a jaguar, each one a symbol for their nature, according to their beliefs. The rainforest provides their food, medicinal plants, and spiritual richness. To these people, the tropical rainforest is their home, their drugstore, their supermarket, and their church; thus their utmost respect for their environment. They are, according to modern world economical standards very poor. However, they have a rich spiritual

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life and live in peace surrounded by their families, taking from nature only what they need for survival and taking time to meditate and enlighten themselves. To share a few days with them is an incredibly enriching experience.

THE HIGHLANDS The cultures of the highlands are by no means the oldest, but they are the most visited and well known, probably because of their geographical

location with easy access by roads and highways. Many communities that live in the highlands still maintain their cultural manifestations through dress, language (Quichua), and festivities. Just 62 miles north of Quito you can visit the Otavalo Indian Market, a must see for any tourist that comes to Ecuador. This market offers wonderful weavings, tapestry, rugs, bags, artwork and other products made by the indigenous community. These people are hardwork-

ing, skillful, and artistic. Families work together and then sell their work at the fair. Transactions take place quietly with bargaining on the side of the tourist. These are very proud people who have not lost their cultural identity despite the fact that mestizos and whites inhabit the city of Otavalo. The Otavaleños travel all around the world selling their goods.

NATIVE CULTURES’ DISTRIBUTION MAP

Sto. Domingo de los Tsáchilas

Sta. Elena

Awa Chachis Shuar Tsáchila Huancavilcas Épera Negro-afroecuatoriano Cofán

Secoya Siona Huaorani Ashuar Quichuas del oriente Mantas Záparo Quichuas de la sierra

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NATIONAL PROTECTED AREAS AMAZING + DIVERSE

MACHALILLA NATIONAL PARK

With its relatively small territory (109.483 square miles), 0.17% of the planet’s land surface, Ecuador was ranked one of the 17 most biodiverse countries in the world.

Sites” by the UNESCO: the Galapagos Archipelago and the Sangay National Park (Amazonian region).

1. MACHALILLA

WHAT IS THE REASON FOR ALL THIS DIVERSITY?

On the following pages, you will find a brief description of Ecuador’s National Parks. You can locate these Parks on the map on the following page. As you may see on the map, besides these National Parks, Ecuador is home to an additional 21 National Protected Areas. The country also includes other important private protected areas and natural sites.

Firstly, the Andes mountain range dividing the country from North to South; secondly, Ecuador’s geo-

Located in the province of Manabí, Machalilla takes its name from one of the pre-Columbian cultures that inhabited this area. The Valdivia, Chorrera and Manteña Cultures also lived in this land of mild climate and extraordinary landscape. One can still visit archeological sites within the park. We especially recommend Agua Blanca and Salango. The park occupies 136,000 acres. Its yearly average temperature is 75ºF. The influence of the Humboldt Current in the Pacific conserves the amazing tropical humid and dry tropical forests.

Two of Ecuador’s National Parks were declared “World Heritage Natural

One of the main attractions of the park is “Isla de la Plata” (Silver

Ecuador holds more than 11% of all the land vertebrates in the world (mammals, birds, amphibians and reptiles), 16.087 vascular plant species and approximately 600 species of marine fish. There is still a lot to learn about Ecuador’s diversity, especially concerning invertebrates and microorganisms. Among the “mega diverse” countries, Ecuador holds the greatest biodiversity of land vertebrates per area.

graphical location at the Tropic of Cancer, the warmest region of the planet; and finally, the influence of two oceanographic phenomenons: “El Niño”, the warm and humity current that comes from the North, and the “Humboldt” current, which comes from the South and is cold and dry.

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PROTECTED AREAS 40

37 COLOMBIA

44 42

39 36

35 34

PERU

1. Machalilla National Park 2. Sumaco Napo Galeras National Park 3. Yasuni National Park 4. Cotopaxi National Park 5. Llanganates National Park 6. Sangay National Park 7. Cajas National Park 8. Podocarpus National Park 9. Galapagos National Park 10. Limoncocha Biological Reserve 11. Galapagos Marine Reserve 12. Antisana Ecological Reserve 13. El Angel Ecological Reserve

14. Cayambe-Coca Ecological Reserve 15. Cayapas-Mataje Ecological Reserve 16. Cotacachi-Cayapas Ecological Reserve 17. Los Ilinizas Ecological Reserve 18. Mache Chindul Ecological Reserve 19. Manglares-Churute Ecological Reserve 20. Pululahua Geo-botanic Reserve 21. Cuyabeno Wildlife Reserve 22. Chimborazo Wildlife Reserve 23. Pasochoa Wildlife Refuge 24. El Boliche Recreational Park 25. Santa Clara Island Wildlife Refuge 26. El Condor Bi-national Park

27. Cofan-Bermejo Ecological Reserve 28. La Chiquita Wildlife Refuge 29. Rio Muisne Mangroves Wildlife Refuge 30. Corazon Island Wildlife Refuge 31. El Salado Mangroves Wildlife Reserve 32. Arenillas Ecological Reserve 33. Parque Lago Recreational Area 34. El Zarza Wildlife Refuge 35. El Quimi Biological Reserve 36. El Morro Mangroves Wildlife Refuge 37. Esmeraldas River Mangroves Estuary Wildlife Refuge 38. Pacoche Coastal-Marine Wildlife Refuge 39. Fauna Production Coastal Marine Reserve Puntilla de Santa Elena 40. Galeras-San Francisco Marine Reserve 41. Yacuri National Park 42. National Recreational Area Santay Island 43. Pambilar Wildlife Refuge 44. National Recreational Area Los Samanes

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the Cosanga culture are found close to this National Park. UNESCO declared the area surrounding the Sumaco volcano a “Biosphere Reserve” in the year 2000.

3. YASUNI

Island). It was named at the end of the XVI century, when the pirate Francis Drake took treasures from Spanish ships and hid them on this site. “Plata” means silver, but it is also how Ecuadorians commonly refer to money. According to the legend, much of this treasure was never claimed and is still hidden here. The Island is surrounded by coral reefs, so the marine life is exciting and plentiful.

You will find some excellent scubadiving services here. The Island has two guided hiking routes, both with awesome sights. You will find a rare colony of bluefooted boobies, masked boobies, frigate birds and albatrosses, as well as interesting plant life. Guides are well versed on the subject. To visit the park, one must purchase a 5-day pass for a fee of 25 dollars. With this ticket you can visit all the sites of the National Park.

2. SUMACO-NAPO-GALERAS

YASUNI 20

With a surface of 507,181 acres, this National Park houses a wide diversity of ecosystems, ranging from high mountains to cloud and lowland forests. The park’s altitudes range from 1,968 to 12,792 feet. The NapoGaleras mountain range has various rivers and springs running through its deep valleys. The Sumaco volcano (12,792 feet) stands isolated from the rest of the Andes and is surrounded by lowland forest. This National Park is rich in animal species, including spectacle bear, bats, marsupials, armadillos, guams, and many bird, reptile and amphibian species. The most common plants found are cedar, canelo, and rubber trees. Native Indian Quichua communities and the archeological sites of

Yasuni is located in the Napo Province. With an extension of 2,426,281 acres, it is an important biogeographical area where endemic species of plants and animals have been preserved since the Pleistocene Period (20,000 BC). According to UNESCO, more than 700 plant species have been identified, together with 500 bird species and 200 different animals. The Napo River is the main access to the park. Recently, the Huaorani Indians who live here, together with environmentalists, have raised international awareness regarding the controversial petroleum exploration of this area.

4. COTOPAXI The Cotopaxi National Park is named after the highest active snow-capped volcano in the world (19,347 ft). It is located 37 miles from Quito. The Park includes 83,829 acres, and the altitude ranges from 11,152 ft to 19,347 ft above sea level. The Cotopaxi Volcano is one of the most important features of this park. It is the highest active volcano in the world. Adventurous professional mountain climbers are attracted to this site along with many tourists who take pride in attempting to reach the top. The volcano offers climbing experiences for all skill levels. The immense plain that surrounds the volcano offers a wonderful landscape with extraordinary geological conditions and numerous flora and fauna. This park is home to deer, pumas, condors, wild horses and llamas. The Limpiopungo lagoon, located close to the Rumiñahui volcano (15,492 ft), is a good place for camping. The Pucará Ruins are an Incaic fortress that should be visited too. At the foot of Cotopaxi you will also find an Incan Palace built by Tupac

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Yupanqui in the XV century, turned into a monastery by the Catholic Augustinian Order in the XVII century. At this site you will enjoy an outstanding view of the volcanoes. Currently it houses a beautiful hacienda that offers excellent hotel facilities. Hotel Cuello de Luna (see page 100) offers exciting expeditions and excellent lodging in the area.

5. LLANGANATES This park is home to one of the most exotic and inaccessible regions in Ecuador. It includes rough moorlands, deep valleys, rivers, lagoons, and abundant waterfalls. Most of the park is covered by dense vegetation, and the weather is mostly cold and rainy. Cerro Hermoso (15,618 ft) is the highest mountain in the area. The most common animal species found are moorland rabbits, sacha (jungle) rabbit, and weasels. Other common species that are very difficult to spot are the spectacle bear, white-tailed deer, moorland deer, moorland fox, puma, deer, tapir, cock-of-the-rock, and the condor. Throughout history, explorers and adventurers have been attracted to this area in search of the elusive gold of Atahualpa, which according to legend is hidden in the Llanganates. Nobody has found the gold, however all visitors bear witness to the region’s mysteries, and keep the legend alive…

trekking, and climbing. The Sangay Volcano is off limits because it is in permanent eruption, but you can get close enough to take spectacular photographs. Native indigenous communities live in this park: Quichua- Canelos in the north and Shuar in the south.

7. CAJAS This National Park is only 21 miles away from Cuenca. It ranges in altitude from 9,840 ft to 11,480 ft. Its 71,186-acre area includes mountains and 232 glacial lagoons, connected to each other by small rivers and streams. Two of the rivers surrounding Cuenca, the Tomebamba and the Yanuncay, begin in this area. Cajas is home to mammals such as the white-tailed deer, spectacle bear, puma, paramo deer, paramo rabbit, and the Andean tapir. Some of the most important bird species found here are the caracara, the condor, the Andean toucan and spectacle duck. The most common vegetation includes: chuquiragua, paramo grasses, yagual (Polylepis), romeril-

lo, chachacoma, genciana, romerillo and the sarar. The Park also has some archeological Inca sites in the area of Molleturo, which historians believe to have been a ‘tambo’ (resting areas for the Inca couriers from Cuzco to Quito).

8. PODOCARPUS Podocarpus is located in both the Provinces of Loja and Zamora Chinchipe, with an extension of 351.436 acres. This park has two ecological zones, jungle and highland, both with great diversity of flora and fauna. Here you will find exotic orchids, bears, pumas, hummingbirds, toucans, woodpeckers and reptiles. It is the ideal place for botanical, ecological and zoological investigations. If you enjoy long walks, listening to the sounds of birds, running rivers, waterfalls and camping, then this is a place you shouldn’t miss. Photos Courtesy of Miguel Dávila, Marco Cruz & Ministry of Tourism

6. SANGAY Sangay is located between three Provinces: Tungurahua, Chimborazo and Morona Santiago and has an extension of 671,654 acres. Take the Pan-American Highway to Riobamba. When you reach Alao you may ask for tourist information at the park’s administration center- correct paths for mountain climbing, horse rental, etc. There are three main mountains in this park: Sangay (17,154 ft.), Altar (17,446 ft.), and Tungurahua (16,452 ft.). These mountains offer excellent opportunities for hiking,

CAJAS 21

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THIS MONTH’S REMARK Yanacocha cloud forests close to Quito, on the Northwest side of the Pichincha volcano. Of these twenty species, 18 can be found simultaneously at the same altitude. In order for various hummingbird species to coexist, the abundance of epiphyte or parasite plants is vital. These plants seem to be "tailormade" for the hummingbirds’ beaks. Such is the case of many bromeliads in the montane forests on the slopes of the Andes.

America: Land of Hummingbirds Fernando Ortiz, a renowned scientist from Quito, proposed that the name of the continent America be changed. He proposed that it be called something like "Land of the Hummingbirds". This name would stand for a unique characteristic of this continent: the presence of these small, agile, magical birds. Hummingbirds are found throughout the whole continent: from Alaska to "Tierra del Fuego", including the Caribbean islands. They are not found elsewhere in the world.

Ceramic Stamp From The “Guangala” Culture of Coastal Ecuador (200 - 500 A.C) 22

Hummingbirds have been ever present in the American cultures. They have been found in the impressive formations in the Nazca desert in Peru. Aztecs had a warrior god called "hitzilopochtli", a mythical being half man and half hummingbird. Peruvian Polychromic ceramics and antique tapestries depict these birds. Antique cultures that inhabited the Ecuadorian coast represented them in their figurines and ceramic stamps. Every Native American culture had a word to name these birds: "huitzitzil" in nahuatl language, "quinde" in quichua, "guanumbi" in guarani, etc. In Andean America, hummingbirds are commonly called "quindes". The biggest number of species is found in the humid forests of Venezuela, Colombia, Ecuador and Peru. Ecuador and Colombia have the world record with more than 130 species each. To cite an example based in field studies, 20 species coexist in the

In order to feed from the flowers’ nectar, hummingbirds have developed a unique locomotion system, comparable only with that of insects: vibratory flight. This type of flight allows the birds to be suspended in the air in front of a flower, and also fly backwards and switch flying speed as desired. The smallest hummingbirds can move their wings at about 80 wing cycles per second. A hummingbird flies at about 200 times its length per second! The cloud forests in the Northwest of the Pichincha Province, only 1-2 hours North of Quito, are the perfect spot for birdwatchers, especially those interested in hummingbirds. These lively and colorful birds are also a common sight in gardens in the midst of the busy city of Quito and all throughout the Ecuadorian Andes. Hummingbirds are an important part of Quito’s cultural ancestry, as well as that of all America: a "Land of Hummingbirds". Information & photo source: Ortiz, Fernando. 2003. Colibries. Quito, Imprenta Mariscal.

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QUITO FROM THE SKY The Quito TelefériQo (cable cars) and Ecuador Infinito magazine organized the photo contest “Quito from the Sky”, which was open to both professional and amateur photographers from July 9th through 22nd through a Facebook Fan Page. During the two weeks of the contest, more than 100 participants uploaded 400 photos, and the Fan Page received more than 1600 likes. 1

The three winning photographs were: 1. First Place- “Antisana” by Diego Eduardo Andrade Naranjo 2. Second Plae: “Quito 4” by Petrus Andreas De Vuyst Degrauwe 3. Third Place: “Dawn Awakens” by Andreas Gaspar De Vuyst Endara In addition to these 3 winning photographs, 13 more were selected for an exhibit both at Mall El Jardín (which will be open to the public until Tuesday, September 4th), and at the entrance and ticket office of the TeleferiQo. These exhibits hold the best of “Quito from the Sky”. Useful information:

The TeleferiQo is open every day from 8h00 to 20h00. It is the last stop of the Quito Tour Bus.

Address: Occidental Avenue & Fulgencio Araujo. Phone: + 593 2 222 2996 / 222 2997 23

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A BIRDER’S PARADISE

The Cloud Forest: The Fascinating Northwest of Pichincha The Equator – the name brings to mind rain forests, lush dripping forests full of wildlife, mystery and wonder! For some this may mean the wonders of the Amazon – but lush rain forests are also much more accessible – “cloud forests” (montane rain forests) are only one and a half hours from Quito. This fascinating ecosystem, literally cloaking the steep slopes of both sides of the Andes from about 1000 – 2500 meters, is amongst the most diverse ecosystems in the world. This is a true jungle with tall trees decorated with a carpet of delicate orchids, mosses, bromeliads, and other epiphytes. While in some ways similar to the Amazon forests, the steepness of the slopes means that the canopy is very uneven, and hence more light penetrates to the forest floor, giving rise to a dense covering of vegetation there also. The steep slopes 24

also give birth to myriad waterfalls, many of which have never been named – just an example of nature’s undiscovered treasures that await you here! The region of Nono-TandayapaBellavista-Mindo has been declared the first Area of International Importance for Birds in South America, and the area has achieved the highest single day bird count during the worldwide Audubon Christmas Count. So for a birder, this region has to be a prime destination. And every 200 meters or so drop in altitude means a change in the species of birds that live there. Consider that Ecuador, which only covers 0.02% of the earth’s land surface, holds about 10% of all bird species found on the planet – and it is not an exaggeration to state that an inordinately high number of Ecuador’s 1600 species of birds are found in the cloud forests! Just to mention a few, some of which are endemic (unique) to this region: Tanager-Finch, Andean Cock-of-theRock, Plate-billed Mountain-Toucan, Tanagers of all colors, Manakins, Cotingas, etc. And for hummingbirds, the number of different species in the Tandayapa and Mindo

Valleys is perhaps a world record, with various places offering an unforgettable spectacle at very accessible feeders. Clearly the high diversity of birds is also reflected in the high diversity of orchids, butterflies, frogs, etc, etc. For the scientist, it is a certainty that new species are there to be discovered. And for the naturalist, every hike reveals new surprises. Take a trail with a guide or alone, walk a self-guided educational trail, perhaps find a spot to just relax and absorb the peace, the variety of bird calls, the remoteness of nature far away from your daily life. This region also is the home of the Andean Spectacled Bear, and although rarely seen, this is perhaps one of the most intriguing species of mammals in this area. Apart from the trails in the forests, there are places that offer displays of butterflies and orchids, with easy access and knowledgeable interpreters ready to explain the respective ecology. The northwest and its cloud forests are also a perfect area for adventure sports. Horseback riding, mountain

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biking, tubing or, during the rainy season, rafting in the rushing rivers, are just some if the varied options this region has to offer. Imagine a day speeding on your bike down a narrow mountain road with a bubbling stream following you as you ride, then a day hiking in the forest, then a day riding on a well-trained horse, feeling like a pioneer on the little-trodden trails that wind through the hills. And if you are a lover of natural swimming holes, there are various places near Los Bancos, Pedro Vicente Maldonado and Puerto Quito that offer sparkling waters amongst dense foliage, deep pools with waterfalls cascading from above, complemented by comfortable cabins nearby to let you unwind completely. At lower elevations, there are interesting opportunities to visit small scale farming enterprises, with a fascinating variety of tropical fruits and the best cacao in the world. The forests also hide various littlestudied archaeological remains – the most accessible of which is the Tulipe Archeaological Site. Museum.

A series of what were most likely ceremonial pools have been uncovered, and various “tolas” (mounds) are awaiting further investigation. What is doubly special is that this site of the ancient Yumbo culture is still little known, and it is an added fascination for the visitor to realize that he or she is experiencing archaeological discovery first hand. For more information see page 76.

Consider Ecuador’s northwest – the region of the two hemispheres (north and south) crossed by the Equator as a fascinating new frontier, with exuberant nature, fascinating people and culture, and comfortable, original lodging just waiting to be discovered by you! Text and photos courtesy of Bellavista Cloud Forest Reserve.

Nono Cloudforest f

by Inca Holidays

A truly of-the-beaten path destination Day tours and overnight stays incaholidays@yahoo.com • info@incaholidays.com Phone: 593 96 189 559 25

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TOURISM NEWS CHARLES DARWIN FOUNDATION LAUNCHES “DATA ZONE” On May 22nd, 2012, Biodiversity Day, the Biodiversity and Knowledge team of the Charles Darwin Foundation launched “Data Zone”, the most complete and detailed data base regarding the variety of species within a sole ecosystem. This work means a double accomplishment because it is not only a great tool for the conservation of the Galapagos, but also means the execution of one of Charles Darwin’s main scientific objectives, which was the creation of a complete data base of an ecosystem. The data base can be accessed at: www.darwinfoundation.org/datazone/. It is a new, modern and easily accessible tool to explore and learn about the different species that live in the Galapagos. It is available for all: the information is for free and is presented both in English and Spanish.

More than a century after Charles Darwin’s visit to the Galapagos aboard the Beagle, the Charles Darwin Foundation was created in order to assess scientifically for the conservation of the Galapagos. And today, 181 years after Darwin’s visit to the Galapagos, one of his scientific aspirations comes to life thanks to the Foundation with his same name through the publication of Data Zone. Information and photo source: Charles Darwin Foundation

BE PART OF THE CHARLES DARWIN FOUNDATION’S ONLINE COMMUNITY!

By “liking” Charles Darwin Foundation’s Facebook page you can find out about project news, field updates and events as well as download free and exclusive interactive content. Check out: www.facebook.com/darwinfoundation and click “like”

For more information visit www.darwinfoundation.org

QUITO AND ECUADOR WERE PROMOTED AT THE BRITISH BIRDFAIR 2012 Quito and Ecuador were promoted as prime bird watching destinations at the British Birdfair, which took place in the Rutland Natural Reserve from August 17th – 19th. The British Birdfair is considered the most important worldwide encounter regarding this topic. In fact, Great Britain leads the market of birdwatchers worldwide, with the British Royal Society for the Protection of Birds having 1,2 million members, 80% of which travel regularly to practice birdwatching. 26

Quito Tourism and the Amazonia Club shared a stand, and were represented by Murray Cooper and Hugh Yarbrough, local bird experts, who displayed the immense richness of Ecuador in regards to bird diversity. Only Quito includes 542 bird species, including 64 endemic to the region and one endemic to the city.

Information and photo source: Quito Tourism www.quito.com.ec

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This archipelago is a living museum of evolutionary changes. Free and fearless animals, different from any others found elsewhere, make visitors wonder about their very existence on our planet. In 1835, Charles Darwin sailed on the British ship H.M.S. Beagle and visited the islands. The living proof that he found in this unique volcanic archipelago inspired his theory of the Origin of Species, which shook the scientific world. All those who choose to make this unforgettable trip can confirm his observations and studies. UNESCO declared Galapagos a World Natural Heritage Site in 1978 and subsequently a World Biosphere Reserve in 1985.

FLORA AND FAUNA: Galapagos is home to an incredibly high rate of endemic species. Among the animals found are the different species of giant ‘Galapagos’ tortoises that gave the islands their name due to the similarity of their carapaces to a British riding saddle called ‘galapago’ in Spanish. Galapagos is home to a variety of birds: blue footed, red footed and masked boobies, flamingos, frigate 28

birds, albatrosses, unique small penguins and non-flying cormorants, and 14 different varieties of finches. These various finches served as proof for Darwin’s theory of evolution from natural selection. Marine mammals such as sea lions, dolphins and whales are also found; as well as multitudes of colorful fish. The most distinctive plants are mangroves and endemic cacti.

ORIGIN: The islands appeared from lava eruptions that came from the bottom of the ocean and that rise as much as 2,600 ft. Lava from more than 2,000 craters has continuously altered the terrain of the region. Currently, the archipelago includes 13 large islands, 6 minor ones and more than 40 islets. Some of the younger islands still have active volcanoes.

WEATHER: December to May the weather is sunny and warm. During the months of June to November, it’s colder and drier.

LOCATION: 600 miles West off the coast.

NATIONAL PARK ENTRANCE FEE: $100 for international visitors/ Comunidad Andina or Mercosur $50

AIR TRAVEL: There are two airports served by local airlines: on Baltra Island and on San Cristobal Island.

TRANSIT CONTROL CARD (TCT): In order to have a better control of visitors and migration to the islands, INGALA, the Ecuadorian institution that controls migration to the islands, introduced a visitor control card. The control card has a cost of $10, which must be canceled at the INGALA counters located in the Quito and Guayaquil airports.

CRUISE SHIPS: A cruise is definitely the best way to visit many of the islands in a short period of time. Tours are a minimum of four days. There is a wide range of cruise offers, from small sailboats for about 18 passengers to big luxurious cruise ships for more than 100 passengers. Contact your travel agency for more information.

THE GALAPAGOS ISLANDS

2 4 3

PACIFIC OCEEAN

La Casa de Marita Royal Palm Hotel Solymar Hotel Il Giardino Restaurant

THE GALAPAGOS WILDLIFE

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LAND OPTIONS: Another way to visit the Galapagos is to stay in a hotel at one of the inhabited islands. You can travel from one island to the other by light aircraft or boat. The following towns offer facilities for tourists:

Puerto Ayora Santa Cruz Island HOW TO GET THERE: If you hire a cruise, or stay at the main hotels on the island, they will make all your travel arrangements. If you are traveling on your own, book your flight from Quito or Guayaquil with Tame or Aerogal. The airlines provide a bus to the Itabaca canal (10 minute ride). From there ferries take you across the canal to Santa Cruz Island for 80 cents. To continue to the town of Puerto Ayora you either take a bus ($1,80) or a taxi ($15) for a 45 minute drive. Along the way you will travel from the arid coastal area through different ecological zones as you ascend to the highlands and then come back to sea level.

The name Santa Cruz means Holy Cross. The first Spanish visitors gave this island a Christian name. This is the main port of entrance to the Archipelago and home to the majority of human inhabitants (aprox. 10,000). Puerto Ayora is the capital of the island, with exciting places to visit, travel agencies that provide visits to the other islands, visit to the highlands and the beaches, other special tours,etc. At Puerto Ayora you will also find excellent handicrafts, jewelry shops, art galleries, casual clothing, restaurants, bike rentals, kayaking, diving and snorkeling services just by taking a walk down Charles Darwin Avenue.

CHARLES DARWIN FOUNDATION HEADQUARTERS: A visit to the Charles Darwin Foundation Headquarters is a must for any visitor to Puerto Ayora. Here you will be able to discover the conservation efforts of the Charles Darwin Foundation and the Galapagos National Park, and see

the giant tortoises (Elephantopus geochelone) breeding center, as well as a small land iguana breeding center. You will learn about the breeding process of these animals in captivity, as well as other conservation efforts for these endangered species and varieties. During the summer months (January to April) we recommend that you take your visit early in the morning to avoid the heat and sun. Distances within the headquarters are short, so you can walk. On the route you will find Opuntia Cacti (Opuntia echios gigantean), endemic to the Galapagos. Be sure to look out for the tame finches and observe the variety of beaks that led Charles Darwin to his theory of evolution by natural selection. These headquarters are open Monday thru Sunday from 6h00 to 18h00. During your visit, which will take approximately 2 hours, be sure to stop at the following pavilions: 1. Van Straelen Visitors Center: a didactic exhibition on origin, fragility, conservation, geology,

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Española Island. Thus, this variety was saved from extinction. Unfortunately, this was not the case for “Lonesome George”, who was the last survivor of the Pinta Island variety and was not able to reproduce, regardless many efforts with genetically similar females. Lonesome George died on the past month of June 2012, making its species extinct. The National Park announced that the cause of death seems to have been a heart attack, as the body was found in a walking position and the tortoise did not suffer of any sickness. The National Park has also announced that they will embalm Lonesome George so it can be kept for future generations. 4. Land Iguanas Corral: a few protected land iguanas can be found at these corrals. Introduced species such as dogs and cats endanger these iguanas. climate, and other aspects related to the Galapagos. 2. Giant Tortoise Breeding Center: this center houses baby tortoises from every island until they are mature enough to survive with hardened carapaces. Once they reach a certain maturity, they are re-introduced into their island of origin. 3. Tortoises’ corrals: at the corrals you can observe and compare the different shapes of the carapaces according to the varieties. It is interesting to note that “Diego” (Geochelone elephantopus hoodensis) from Española Island has a flat carapace that becomes long at the height of the neck. This tortoise was brought from the San Diego Zoo (thus the name) and was successfully reunited with females from 32

Two land iguana species are endemic to the Galapagos Islands, the Conolophus subcristatus (that is found on six of the islands), and the Conolophus pellidus (found on Sante Fe Is.) Charles Darwin Foundation has a dedicated international staff that works together on research and long-term conservation programs. Visit their website at:

www.darwinfoundation.org TORTUGA BAY Tortuga Bay is a beautiful beach of fine white sand. From your hotel, for $1, take a taxi to where the path to this unique beach begins. A 2.5 km cobblestone path was built in order to reach the paradisiacal beach of Tortuga Bay by foot. A mysterious forest of the tall Opuntia Cactus and volcanic rock surrounds the path, and the view is overwhelming. Throughout your walk you will observe finches, yellow warblers, mockingbirds, and lava lizards. Feel transported to the time when the adventurers and pirates of the XVIII and XIX century visited these enchanted islands. Once your reach Tortuga Bay, you walk into what seems an infinite and desolate beach of white sand. Every now and then you encounter marine iguanas on their way in or out of the water. There are other interesting sites to visit such as the lava tunnels, the twin craters, tortoises in their natural environment (all in the highlands), the grottos (crevasses with refreshing swimming water), or the Garrapatero beach. Be sure to ask you hotel about facilities to visit these sites.

NIGHT LIFE: Puerto Ayora is a quiet, safe, tourist friendly town. On Charles Darwin Avenue one can find almost everything; restaurants, bars,

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ceviches (traditional food), fresh fish, drinks, etc. Night life offers much to enjoy, and safely. You will find a wholesome and fun ambience shared by people from all around the world who either live in or are visiting Puerto Ayora.

Puerto Baquerizo Moreno San Cristobal Island This is the capital of the province, and has the second largest number of inhabitants in the archipelago. From 1836 to 1904, a large portion of the highlands of the island belonged to Hacienda El Progreso, with extensive sugar and coffee plantations owned by M.J. Cobos. Cobos made an empire of his hacienda (it even had its own currency). You can visit vestiges of this hacienda, and also coffee plantations that remain open to this day. The main attractions in the island are: the Interpretation Center; Ochoa Beach, Playa Man, Pitt Pint, El Junco lagoon (the only fresh water lagoon

in the archipelago) and the Lobos Island. You will be surprised by the presence of sea lions in town. A highlight when visiting this island is a tour to Kicker Rock, a stunning rock formation surrounded by abundant sea life (especially sharks). On the same trip you can visit the beautiful Cerro Brujo beach.

Puerto Velasco Ibarra Floreana Island

spite of the fact that it was the first one to be colonized, basically by national and foreign settlers during the first decades of this century. Many legends have been written about its people. Floreana by Margarett Wittmer is a most interesting novel that describes the situations of these settlers! The main attractions are: the historical Post Office Bay and Asilo de la Paz, Punta Cormoran, Corona del Diablo, Enderby and Gardner Bay.

This enigmatic island is the least inhabited of the archipelago, in

THIS MONTH IN GALAPAGOS Max temperature Min temperature Hours of clear skies Sea temperature

24°C / 76°F 20°C / 67°F 2,9 22°C / 71°F

SEPTEMBER • Peak of the dry season. • The air temperature reaches its lowest (19° C / 66°F) • Penguins demonstrate remarkable activity on Bartolomé Island until December. • Sea lions are very active, especially in the western and central areas of the Archipelago. • Most species of marine birds remain active at their nesting sites. Note: The changes of strength and the limits of the ocean currents can affect the climate in the Galapagos; some of the described events above may differ. Source: www.galapagosexplorer.com 33

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lions, rays, eels and sea turtles are seen on almost every dive.

Puerto Villamil Isabela Island This enchanted town has a population of about 2,500, mostly fishermen. Close to town are several impressive sites: a path alongside a reef that is home to several white tip sharks- you can easily observe them from land; “Concha y Perla” Bay; a giant tortoise breeding center; and the amazing volcanoes Sierra Negra and Volcán Chico. Sierra Negra has the second largest crater in the world, with a diameter of 7.46 miles. Volcán Chico has an overwhelming “lunatic” landscape with fascinating lava formations. It’s possible to horseback ride or trek around Sierra Negra’s crater to Volcán Chico. Isabela also has a flamingo lake and several beautiful trails along the way to the “Wall of Tears”. This wall is proof of the genuine human history of the islands. Around 1946, this island was a penal colony. Prisoners were kept busy carrying sharp lava rocks to form this wall.

GALAPAGOS MARINE RESERVE: The interior waters of the islands, plus those within 40 nautical miles measured from the baseline of the Archipelago, were declared the Galapagos Marine Reserve in 1994. This is the only protected coastal marine area in the East Pacific, and the second largest Marine Reserve in the World. 34

Found at the confluence of warm and cold surface currents and deep cold upwelling waters, the Galapagos Marine Reserve is home to fascinating marine life. Its waters are rich with nutrients and the porous lava rocks provide small fish with the protection they would otherwise receive from a coral reef, which are few and far between in these waters. More than 2.900 marine species have been reported in the Galapagos, ¼ of which are exclusive to this reserve (endemic). There are many areas with small submarine volcanoes, which are important feeding zones for marine birds and mammals. Don’t miss the opportunity to snorkel with sea lions, penguins, a variety of colorful fish and even inoffensive sharks! Diving courses and tours are also offered for those who are willing to be adventurous!

DIVING IN GALAPAGOS For many a Galapagos diving trip is the experience of a lifetime as it is one of the last places in the world where you can go diving with large schools of sharks. Although sharks may be the star of the show, these waters are home to much more: manta and leopard rays, dolphins, sea lions, penguins, sea turtles, yellow fin tuna, almaco jacks, codfish, leather bass and blue striped chub… just to name a few. An impressive number of large animals such as sea

Home to over 500 species of fish, 24 species of marine mammals, and 27 shark species including Hammerheads and the enormous Whale Shark, the Galapagos Marine Reserve is a World Natural Heritage Site. Besides all this diversity, several land animals and marine birds depend exclusively on the Galapagos waters for their survival; thus, the conservation of the Marine Reserve is a priority. Galapagos isn’t just for advanced divers; these waters offer something for divers of all skill levels. Intermediate divers will be delighted by daily dive trips to sites like Gordon Rocks, Cousins Rocks, North Seymour and Floreana where hammerheads, Galapagos sharks, giant manta rays, golden rays, morays, fur seal and sea lions are all commonly seen. Contact our sponsors for more information.

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PREMIUM SERVICES - GALAPAGOS

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The Ecuadorian Coast extends from the western slopes of the Andes to the Pacific Ocean. A lower mountain range crosses this region from North to South and it is full of alluvial plains. The Ecuadorian Coast was populated by the oldest known cultures of the country, such as Valdivia (3.5001.800 BC). Ever since then, the region has had the largest agricultural development in the country, thanks to the variety of natural resources such as water, wide plains and fertile soils. The Ecuadorian Coast holds three main ecosystems: the tropical wet forests of the north, the tropical savannas of the center and south east, and the dry forest of the west and southern peninsula. Throughout the coastline there are three additional important ecosystems: the mangroves, the beaches and the rock cliffs.

Two oceanographic phenomena influence the diversity that is found in the country and especially on the coast. The “El Niño” current comes from the North and is warm and humid. The “Humboldt” current comes from the south and is cold and dry. The weather in the Coast is mostly warm; however, there are two seasons, wet and dry. The first is warm and humid, and goes from December to May. The rest of the year is dry and cooler. The two seasons are clearly distinct from the

province of Manabi to the rest of the South. The northern province of Esmeraldas has warm weather all year long, and high levels of rainfall; thus its lush vegetation. During the months of the austral winter (June to September), the Ecuadorian coast has an additional attraction: the presence of Humpback whales (Megapter novoaengliae) that migrate from the Antarctic to tropical waters to mate and give birth to their calves. A favorite spot for whale-watching is the Machalilla National Park in the Manabi Province. The old road from Quito to the coast, the Calacali -La Independencia road, passes through some of the best bird-watching territory in the coun-

try. The other route from Quito is through Santo Domingo de los Colorados, set amid a broad sea of banana and oil-palm plantations, skirting a few tropical wet forests such as the little-explored Reserva Ecológica Mache-Chindul. It is home to the “Tsachilas”, an indigenous culture also called “Colorados” because the men of this culture have painted their hair red for centuries with a vegetable dye taken from the seed of the “achiote”. From Santo Domingo a network of paved roads connects to the major coastal centers of the country. From Guayaquil, you can begin a route through the coastline. The following pages will guide you through this route of beautiful beaches, culture and adventure. PHOTO: CRISTINA CASTRO

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ECUADORIAN COASTLINE

BALLENITA

These pages guide us through the unique nature and history of the Ecuadorian Coast. You can fly either to Guayaquil, Manta or Esmeraldas and drive through the coastline. The following pages will guide you from Guayaquil, traveling Northward. Following this route, nature lovers have the opportunity to explore unique dry forests with their two contrasting seasons, cloud forests and their rare fauna and flora, dive within coral reefs surrounded by exotic sea life, admire the numerous bird species of the region, and submerge themselves in isolated and exotic beaches. The “Chongón-Colonche” Mountain Range at the north of the Guayas province has unique ecosystems with an amazing diversity of endemic plants and birds: one can climb from very dry forests at the coast to lush cloud forests at the top of the hills, only a few kilometers away. For those who are sports

inclined, there are opportunities to fish, sail, surf, ski and dive. In addition, Ecuador’s coastal provinces hold vestiges of an amazingly rich history. The most antique cultures of America settled here on the Coasts of South America. Finally, if you only wish to rest, suntan, and watch the sunset, along this route you will find suitable accommodations and services.

1. “REAL ALTO” IN-SITU MUSEUM: On the way from Guayaquil to Salinas, one can find this museum managed by the community descending from the “Valdivia” culture. The place resembles a ceremonial center of the human groups that inhabited this area from 4.200 -1.500 B.C. Open TuesSunday, 9h00-17h00. Admission fee: $2.00.

2. MUSEUM OF THE “LOVERS OF SUMPA”: Definitely worth visiting is this small but outstanding insitu museum, which is located at the antique settlement village of the “Las Vegas” culture (approx. 8.800 to 4.600 BC). The museum got its name because the burial grounds that were uncovered disclosed the skeletons of a man and a woman that were carefully buried together about 5-6.000 years ago. This museum is the largest cemetery of that time that has been excavated in the new world. Open Thursday thru Saturday, 10h00 to 17h00. Sundays and holidays 10h00 to 15h00. Phone: 294-1020 Admission fee is $ 0.50, includes guide service.

3. SALINAS: Excellent accommodations are found in Salinas, named for the salt that extracted from the region. This site is a corridor for

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migratory bird and marine species. It is a favorite vacation spot for people from Guayaquil. The boardwalk of Salinas is a safe place that offers entertainment day and night. On the Malecon, you can visit the Naval Archeological Museum (open Wednesday-Sunday). This small museum displays the vast archeological richness of the pre-Hispanic cultures that inhabited this region. The museum also displays a representation of the antique “balsas” made from the wood of the same name, with great cotton sails that impressed the Spaniards because of their ability to travel long distances (Mexico-Peru). The museum also displays coins from the Spanish conquest, and some pieces from the “Lady Captain” galleon that sank in 1664.

4. BALLENITA: The “Farallon Dillon” Restaurant- Museum is found at the site. It has a wonderful viewpoint that is the perfect setting for bird and whale watching. The museum displays modern practical artifacts made out of antique marine pieces; most of the artifacts are for sale. 5. VALDIVIA: Close to the town are a museum and an aquarium.

The museum displays archeological pieces of the Valdivia culture. The aquarium is most interesting not only because of the display of exotic sea life, but also because the guides are homeless children; this job enables them to obtain an education.

vegetable oil, and the famous “Panama hats”. Today, the visits of cruise ships and the construction of modern hotels have transformed the city into an important tourist destination. Many foreigners have chosen Manta and the nearby Crucita town as their retirement residence.

6. MONTAÑITA: It is a favorite spot for national and international surfers and young adventurous tourists. This charming town offers a variety of inexpensive hostels, national and international food, and an exhilarating nightlife.

Manta is a modern city, however some antique bamboo and wooden houses still remain as a reminder of the old village. With an average temperature of 77ºF all year long, dry weather and dry tropical forest in its surroundings, Manta is an attractive city to visit. Additionally, Manta offers first class hotel facilities and daily flights are available on Aerogal from the main cities.

7. OLON: The wide beach of Olon is crowned with an outstanding Sanctuary, with open walls and a breathtaking view of the beach.

8. MACHALILLA NATIONAL PARK: This park has various attractions: Isla de la Plata off the coast of Puerto Lopez, Los Frailes Beach, the Archeological Site of Agua Blanca, Salango, and the Beaches of Puerto Rico and Puerto Cayo.

9. MANTA: Until recently, Manta was only known for its important tuna fishing fleet, the production of

The warmth and hospitality of the Manteños contributed to the rapid tourism development of the entire province. Delicious gastronomy is also one of the main attractions of Manta. Don’t miss the seafood “ceviches” or the exquisite “viche de pescado”. Manta is decorated with a wide variety of tree species: ceibos, jasmines, almonds, rubber plants, acacias, and beautiful palm trees. The balsa tree (Ochroma logopus) is native to this

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LEGEND Atacames Tonsupa Súa Same Tonchigüe La Unión Punta Galera Galera Punta Tortuga San Francisco El Salto 11 Muisne

ESMERALDAS San Gregorio

Punta Farallón

Punta Pedernales

Punta Ballena

El Carmen

Flavio Alfaro

Bahía de Caráquez

Punta Charapotó

MANABÍ

San Mateo

Quevedo Pichincha El Empalme

Typical food National Protected Area Beaches Airport Surfing Fishing Water Sports Accommodation Scuba diving Capital of Province Cities / Towns Small Towns Main Road Secondary Road La Ruta del Sol

province. Its light wood allowed the early inhabitants of the region to navigate large distances easily and rapidly. From history books we have learned that the golden jewels and decorations worn by the navigators caught the attention of the first Spanish visitors, who believed that the gold they couldn’t find in the Caribbean was in the South Pacific.

10. BAHIA DE CARAQUEZ: The 8

LOS RÍOS Palestina

L. de Sargentillo

Dos Mangas

Valdivia

GUAYAS

Playa Rosada Colonche

3 2

Daule

Narcisa de Jesús

Barcelona

SANTA ELENA

Durán

city of Bahía de Caráquez is named after the bay and the pre-Columbian residents who came from the sea and settled here. Because of the estuary and the Pacific Ocean around the city, the local nature offers fresh and salt water that allows diverse vegetation. In the area you can find mangrove trees, ceibos forests, and fresh water humidity such as that in La Segua Marsh. A few years ago Bahía became an ecocity as a result of its big Green Movement and because of the community effort to rebuild the city after suffering the earthquakes of 1997. Bahía de Caráquez is one of the few cities in Ecuador that recycles waste, serving as an example for other regions. Traffic is not a problem. Many residents and tourists prefer to use “ecological taxis” which are bikes adapted to transport two passengers. 41

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This province is called "La Provincia Verde" (The Green Province) due to its exuberant vegetation, which also gave it the name of Esmeraldas (Emerald), the precious dark green stone. The Esmeraldas River runs through the province contributing to its paradisiacal tropical beauty, vegetation and fauna.

BAHIA DE CARAQUEZ - MANABI.

PHOTO COURTESY OF PATRICIO TAMARIZ

This keeps the city free from pollution and offers a peaceful place ideal for vacationing.

MAIN ATTRACTIONS Isla Coraz贸n is a mangrove forest refuge comprised of 130 acres, home to one of the largest colonies of Magnificent Frigate birds in all of the South Pacific. Since 1998 the protection of the sanctuary is the responsibility of an adjacent community called Portovelo, that has a mangrove reforestation project. The residents are glad to show you around the island on wooden trails that have been built within the mangroves, as well as on boat tours around the island. La Segua Marsh is a fresh water humidity area of about 172 hectares. In La Segua there are approximately 164 bird species.

Cerro Seco is one of the last tropical dry forests in the world. The Cabo Pasado: Is a remnant of pre-mountain forest which is a geographical transition between the Tumbesian region of dry tropical forest and the tropical rainforest of the Choc贸 Region. It is the only area in South America where you can observe the flora and fauna of both tropical and dry forests coexisting together. It can be toured by horseback or hiking. You will likely see and hear howler monkeys.

11. ESMERALDAS: The Esmeraldas province in the northwest of the country is a tropical and warm region thanks to the Humboldt cold current, which comes from the south and drifts off before reaching Esmeraldas.

Gaspar de Villarroel 1100 & 6 de Diciembre Edificio Ritz Plaza Esquina Phone: (593-2) 336-0887 / 336-0888 / 336-0889 Fax: (593) 2-336-0774

Esmeraldas is a great tourist attraction due to its vast beaches, delicious local gastronomy based on seafood and green plantains, and the hospitality of its people, amongst them being the jovial Afro-Ecuadorian community. A tale of the province tells of the adventure of a ship full of slaves that was heading toward Cartagena, Colombia and was shipwrecked at the coasts of Esmeraldas. These African people found freedom and attractive living conditions in Esmeraldas and settled there. This is a lively community with extraordinary musical manifestations. Tourist facilities are improving and inexpensive hostels, comfortable beach resorts, as well as cabins from budget to high end can now be found in Atacames, Same, Punta Galeras, Muisne and Mompiche, just to mention some of the favorite beaches in this province. Esmeraldas is a favorite vacation spot for people from Quito, as it is one of the closest beaches and the weather and water temperature is warm throughout the year.

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PREMIUM HOTELS - ECUADORIAN COASTLINE

MANTA

ECUADOR

Tel.: 5935 - 2629999 • Fax: 5935 - 2629989 reservas@hojomanta.com • www.ghl.com.co Kilometro 1.5 Via Barbasquillo • Manta - Ecuador

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GUAYAQUIL

Guayaquil, the capital of the Guayas province, is the largest and most populated city in Ecuador. Located on the Pacific coast, it has a tropical climate, and is known as the “Pacific Pearl”. It is the main port of Ecuador, thus, it is of great economic importance to the country. The city was named after an indigenous chief, “Guayas”, and his wife, “Quil”. Both of them chose to die before surrendering themselves to the Spaniards.

Francisco de Orellana founded Guayaquil on the skirts of the Santa Ana Hill on July 25th, 1534. On the top of this hill you can observe cannons that were used to defend the city from pirate attacks. A few houses preserve their original architecture, with defense walls facing the river. Many of these houses were built at different levels on the hill, very common for the Spaniards and Portuguese. The surroundings of the

city offer archeological sites of the pre-Hispanic cultures of Valdivia, Machalilla, Chorrera, Guangala and Manteña. The Gulf of Guayaquil, the river, the monuments, museums, parks, and its exhilarating nightlife are part of the attractions of this city.

MAIN ATTRACTIONS MALECÓN SIMÓN BOLÍVAR On this 1 1/2 mile waterfront walk you’ll find entertainment, culture and nature! Malecón Simón Bolívar includes monuments, museums, gardens, fountains, shopping malls, restaurants, bars, an IMAX theater, as well as docks and viewpoints. Malecón Simón Bolívar is the largest architectural development in the last century of Guayaquil’s history (total surface is 4,942 acres). It runs from Cuenca Street to the south of the city, all the way to “Barrio Las Peñas”

to the north. Your walk up the Malecón Simón Bolívar will take you through three sections:

Northern This section has space for sports, entertainment, science, history and art. Children’s games, space for aerobics and skating, are all surrounded by the historical Plaza de Orellana, Plaza de la Pileta (water fountain) and Plaza del Vagón, with a wagon of an antique Ecuadorian train. In this section you will also find gardens that showcase diverse plant species of the Ecuadorian coast, and the Centro Cultural Simón Bolívar.

Central With the Civic Plaza (10 de Agosto and Pichincha) containing a gallery dedicated to the most outstanding personalities in Guayaquil’s history, this section is mostly historic. You can also admire other monuments:

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Hemiciclo de la Rotonda

HEMICICLO DE LA ROTONDA

This historical monument is a spectacular semicircle commemorating the meeting of two Latin American liberators, Simón Bolívar and San Martin, when it was decided that Guayaquil be annexed to the Gran Colombia. The monument was designed and constructed by the Spanish sculptor Jose Antonio Holms and placed in 1937. From this historical site you can see the Rafael Mendoza Avilés bridge (the largest in Ecuador).

Moorish Clock Tower The clock was bought in England thanks to a loan given by Don Manuel Antonio Lizárraga, a rich Spanish merchant, one of the illustrious figures of the Independence. The clock was inaugurated in October of 1842 just after the terrible yellow fever epidemic in Guayaquil, the worst in its history. In 1903, the clock was moved, tower and all, from City Hall that was demolished to the Town Hall. However, from this location, the tolls that announced the hour could not be heard throughout the city, so two stories were built on to the tower.

In 1920, an Italian engineer built a tower of three prismatic parts entirely made of carved wood. Finally, due to structural flaws, this tower had to be demolished. At this time, the foreign colony residing in Guayaquil together with the City Council constructed a new tower in a pure Mozarabic Style. Also in this section you can visit the four sculptures that represent the elements of nature, as well as the Guayaquil Yacht Club and the Naval Yacht Club. From the pier, the Pirate Morgan Tavern Ship has daily departures for a cruise around the Guayas River.

during the XIX century, is found. To conclude your visit through this section, visit the modern architecture of the new Bahía Malecon Mall, with its terrace of restaurants that offers a spectacular view of the Guayas River.

SANTA ANA HILL This unique hill with its charming and colorful houses is located in the northern part of the city. After climbing 444 stairs you will have the opportunity to visit many restaurants, shops and art galleries. There is also a small church to visit as well as a lighthouse that overlooks the entire city.

“LAS PEÑAS” NEIGHBORHOOD Services include a covered parking lot, security area, rest rooms and a first aid center.

Southern

The old market is found in this section. It was inaugurated in 1907, and its authorship is attributed to the famous French engineer Eiffel. In this section you will find the “Club de la Unión”, the most traditional social center in Guayaquil. As you continue you will come to the Olmedo Plaza, where a monument of José Joaquín de Olmedo, a famous poet from Guayaquil and President of Ecuador

Adjacent to the stairway is “Las Peñas”, the first residential neighborhood of Guayaquil. Its wooden houses hold treasured memories from writers and poets that inhabited this area. Although it existed since colonial times, “Las Peñas” was completely destroyed due to a fire in 1896 (“El Incendio Grande”). It was rebuilt in a neoclassic style. Enjoy a stroll along the charming cobble stoned street “Numa Pompillo Llona”, full of small art galleries. Here you can also witness the influence of the Pacific Naval Yards from the Spanish colonial times.

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MUNICIPALITY PALACE

influence. Beautiful stretches of palm trees lead to the grave of the past president, Vicente Rocafuerte.

SPORT CENTERS Guayaquil is famous for its great sport facilities, including one of the 20 largest soccer stadiums in the world, “Isidro Romero” (seats 85,000 people). This stadium is located at Del Bombero Av. The city also hosts a modern horse track with races every weekend- the Hipódromo Buijo (Samborondón). There are also tracks for go-kart, bicycle, motorcycle and car races; as well as basketball, golf and polo courts and great water sport facilities.

WE ALSO RECOMMEND THAT YOU VISIT

MALECÓN “EL SALADO” Smaller than Malecon 2000, this waterfront walk also offers entertainment, culture and nature. At El Salado you will find a variety of restaurants and bars to chose from; handcraft shops and entertainment for children. It is located at 9 de Octubre & La Ria.

OTHER ATTRACTIONS IN GUAYAQUIL CENTENARIO PARK The park is located at the heart of the city and is also one of the largest in Guayaquil. There are bronze monuments, which represent heroism, justice, patriotism, and freedom. One monument representing the man who fought for independence was designed by a Spanish Sculptor, Agustin Querol, and built by José Monserrat in 1818.

You can admire the statue of the liberator Simon Bolívar. This park is exceptional for its wildlife. You will see fish, a variety of birds, and numerous iguanas. The iguanas of the park have always been one of its main attractions. These animals chose this place to feed on its vegetation, as the town of Guayaquil used to end at this park, the rest being savannah.

The “Guayas and Quil” Monument (Las Americas Ave.), the Municipality Palace (Pichincha 605 and 10 de Agosto), the Governor’s Palace (Malecón and Aguirre), Sucre Square (Pichincha and Clemente Ballén), Rocafuerte Square (Rocafuerte and Junin), and the Planetarium (via Puerto Marítimo).

CENTRO CIVICO This modern center has an information office for tourists, exposition halls, convention halls, and other large areas for musical events, concerts, theaters, and other cultural events. On the upper floor of the civic center one can admire outstanding sculptures of Oswaldo Guayasamin. This center has an artificial lake surrounded by exuberant vegetation. Address: Quito St, between El Oro y Venezuela.

SEMINARIO PARK

GENERAL CEMETERY

Also known as the Bolívar Park or Iguanas Park, it is located on Chile Street between 10 de Agosto and Clemente Ballén Avenues. The park was inaugurated on July 24, 1880.

Although few cemeteries can be considered a tourist attraction, this one is worth admiring. It has outstanding sculptures made of white marble. The style has a strong Italian

CATHEDRAL 47

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CHURCHES

SANTA ANA HILL

THE CATHEDRAL This Neo-Gothic Cathedral was built in 1948. The main altar is made of marble from Cuenca and its stained glass windows are beautiful works of art. It is located on the corner of Chimborazo and Clemente Ballén Avenues. Visiting hours: 9h0012h00, and14h00-17h00 everyday.

SANTO DOMINGO This church is the oldest in Guayaquil, built in the 16 Century. It was later restored in 1938. It is decorated with the famous paintings of Salas. It is located on Rocafuerte and Coronel Ave. Visiting hours: 8h00 to 18h00.

LA MERCED It has a gothic style and a gold covered altar. It is located on Rendón and Pedro Carbo Ave. Open Monday thru Friday 7h-12h00 and 18h19h30. Saturdays 7h-10h00 and 18h-20h00. Free admission.

MUSEUMS CENTRO CULTURAL SIMÓN BOLÍVAR The Centro Cultural Simón Bolívar of the Ecuadorian Central Bank guards a collection of 50.000 archeological pieces and a modern art collection of 3.000 works. It also houses a library of 20.000 publications specializing in art, archeology and anthropology. Additionally, the museum has six exhibit halls, a multipurpose room for conferences and workshops, a document center, a bookstore and a handcraft shop, as well as a cinema with a capacity for 380 people. Free outdoor movie projections are presented periodically.

Open Tuesday thru Saturday from 10h00 to 17h00, Sundays and holidays from 11h00 to 15h00. Address: Malecon Simon Bolivar and Loja (at the Northern part of the

Malecon 2000, next to the Imax theater). Admission fee: WednesdaySaturday $1.50, Sundays free

children, senior citizens and students. Phone: 2300500 / 2304998.

GUAYAQUIL IN HISTORY CASA DE LA CULTURA This museum holds the most valuable pre-historic gold work collection in Ecuador. Most pieces were made by the indigenous inhabitants of our coast. You will see ceremonial pots, snake-shaped bracelets, nose rings, gold pieces that were used on the lips and cheeks, elaborate pins used to fasten clothing, chest shields, ceremonial masks and earrings. The abundance of gold provoked the greed of the Spanish conquerors, who hoarded and sent vast quantities of this precious metal back to Spain. Thus, gold workmanship disappeared due to the Indigenous belief that gold was evil, being the main cause of having Spaniards come to their lands. Archeological objects such as the “Ocarinas” (clay whistles), stone headrests, molds for gold masks and clay seals, apparently have Egyptian influence. There are many colonial paintings from anonymous authors and from well-known artists of this period (such as Goribar and Rodriguez). Address: 9 de Octubre 1200 & Pedro Moncayo. Open Tuesday thru Friday from 10h-18h00, Saturdays 9h-15h00. Admission fee: $1 adults, $0.50

Located at Malecon 2000 under the IMAX Theater, this didactic museum holds a miniature exhibit of the most remarkable scenes of Guayaquil’s history. It is an auto-guided museum (in Spanish) with entertaining explanations and lively music. Open Mondays thru Sundays from 9h00 - 13h30 and 16h00 -20h00. Admission fee: $1,50 adults, $1 children. Phone: 2563078.

THE MUNICIPAL MUSEUM This museum has four divisions: Archeology, History, Colonial Art and Modern Art. You will have the chance to see original “tzanzas” (shrunken heads.) The Shuar culture of the southeast used to shrink their enemy’s head to keep the bad spirits away from them. These miniature heads would not lose their original features when reduced. The mystery of this process has not yet been discovered. Even though the Shuar culture is still alive, the shrunken head tradition is not. Located at the corner of Sucre Street and Pedro Carbo. Visiting

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MALECÓN SIMÓN BOLÍVAR

cionado of Ecuador’s archeology. The pieces belong to three historical periods: Formative (4,200 B.C. – 500 B.C), Regional Development (500 B.C. – 500 A.D.) and Integration (500 A.D.- 1530 A.D.). Open Tuesday thru Saturday from 9h00 to 17h00. Holidays from 10h00 to 15h00. Free admission. Guide service both in English and Spanish. Address: corner of 9 de Octubre and Carchi. Phone: (04) 229 3423.

NAVAL MUSEUM “ALMIRANTE ILLINGWORTH” Malecon & Clemente Ballen (Building of the Provincial Government of Guayas). Open Monday thru Friday from 8h00 to 12h30 and 14h00 to 16h00. Free admission. Phone: 2324274.

THE FIREFIGHTERS MUSEUM “FELIX LUQUE PLATA” Located at the old water distributor in Plaza Colon, close to “Las Peñas” neighborhood.

hours: Tuesday thru Saturday 9h00 to 17h00. Free admission. Identification document is required. Phone: 2599100.

NAHIM ISAIAS MUSEUM Located at the Plaza de la Administracion and part of the process of urban regeneration, the Nahim Isaias Museum’s vision is to promote colonial art through its cultural funds. The complete collection of the Museum includes 2.179 works of art. The second floor holds a permanent exhibition of colonial art. The exhibit is called “Cosmognias”, and is a didactical sample that integrates the most representative works of colonial culture. This exhibit consists of 100 pieces: sculptures, paintings, clothes and accessories of the colonial period. The exhibit is divided into four categories: Fire, Earth, Water and Air.

Open Tuesday thru Saturday from 9h00 to 16h30. Sundays and holidays from 10h00 to 15h00. Free admission. Address: Pichincha y Clemente Ballen Phone: 2324182, 2324283 www.museonahimisaias.com

PRESLEY NORTON MUSEUM “Villa Herlinda”, a two floor manor dating back to 1942, houses the delightful exhibition of “Life and Customs of the Settlers of Ancient Ecuador”. The charming setting and approachably small size of the exhibit, combined with the friendly didactic resources of touch screens and a video, make a visit to this unique museum a most pleasant experience. The museum holds a sample of 129 selected archeological pieces from a collection of over 8,000 artifacts that belonged to Presley Norton, a passionate afi-

Open Tuesday thru Saturday from 10h00 to 17h00. Admission fee: $0.75 adults, $0.25 children. Phone: 230 8565.

SURROUNDINGS BOTANICAL GARDEN This garden holds approximately 700 plant species that have been cultivated to resemble their natural habitat. Among these are trees used for wood, fruit trees, ornamental and exotic plants. More than 80 species of orchids, both native and introduced from other tropical countries, can be observed. An exhibit of native medicinal plants of the Coast is also found. Approximately 75 bird species of the dry tropical forest fly freely in the garden. Jardin Botanico also houses a butterfly-breeding center, with approximately 27 species. Representations of the Valdivia, Manteña and Jama-Coaque cultures are exhibited along the internal roads.

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Located at “Cerro Colorado” in northern Guayaquil, Ciudadela Las Orquideas, Av. Francisco de Orellana. Open every day from 8h00 to 16h00. Entrance fee: $3.00 adults, $1.50 students, children and senior citizens. Guide service is $5.00 for groups up to 20 people. Phone: 2899 689. Workshops and conferences on plant cultivation are offered.

CERRO BLANCO PROTECTED FOREST Protected by governmental decree and run by the Pro-Forest Foundation, Cerro Blanco protects one of the few remaining areas of dry tropical forest in Ecuador with a rich biodiversity, including jaguar, puma, howler, and capuchin monkeys, white-tailed deer, collared peccary, coatimundi and crab-eating raccoon. Cerro Blanco is a bird watcher’s paradise, with 211 species including 22 species of birds of prey and a small population of the threatened Great Green Macaw, the symbol of this Protected Forest. Cerro Blanco’s facilities include an outdoor amphitheater museum, 4 nature trails, picnic and camping area, and the Great Green Macaw Captive Breeding Center. From January to May, the view is completely green and abundant water allows bird nesting. From June to December is the dry season: the leaves’ colors change to brownish red, and trees flower. Don’t miss visiting one of the last remains of this unique ecosystem!

Located at km 16 on the way from Guayaquil to Salinas, in front of Roosevelt Academy School, it can be easily reached by buses of Chongon Company buses or buses that run from the land terminal to the coast, as well as by taxi. Open every day from 8h00 to 16h30. Previous reservation is required for visits during week days. Phone: 287 4946 / 7 – 09 4135 730 Entrance fee: $4 adults, $3 children. Guide service is $10 for groups of up to 8 people. E-mail:bosqueprotector@yahoo.com www.bosquecerroblanco.com Visits Monday thru Sunday from 8h30 to 15h30 without prior reservation.

HISTORIC PARK A natural habitat of mangrove trees, fresh waters of the Daule River, and tropical climate make this 20 acre park the perfect setting to bring the past back to life. In a single day visit, one can encounter the fauna and flora of the region in the “wildlife zone”, the history, cultural manifestations and rural life in the “traditions zone”, as well as the “urban-architectonic zone”, which holds original pieces from Guayaquil’s antique architecture destroyed by fires in the XIX century, bringing the city of the past back to life. On Sundays the Historic Park becomes livelier with cultural and festive activities. Music, traditional food, people dressed up in antique clothes, among other activities, add color and flavor to this cultural set-

ting. Located only 10 minutes from the city, across the Daule River, close to the residential neighborhood of Samborondon #3. Free admission. Open Wednesday to Sunday from 9h00 to 16h30. Guide service is available. You can arrange group visits by calling 283 2958 ahead of time. Transportation service is available next to the entrance of the MAAC parking lot in Malecon 2000 (Malecon & Loja St.).

PUERTO HONDO MANGROVES Through the formation of an Ecological Club, the community is making a united effort to conserve the remaining mangroves in the area. Among its projects, the club offers ecotourism opportunities. Visit this beautiful natural site with exotic flora and fauna! It is located 17 km away from Guayaquil, on the way to Salinas. Open every day from 9h00 to 17h00. Prior reservation is required for visits from Monday thru Saturday. Phone: 091400186. The visitor can choose between a 45 minute trip through the water ($10) or adding on a visit to the Environmental Education Center ($15). E-mail: bosqueprotector@yahoo.com

Photos courtesy of: Municipio de Guayaquil & Parque Histórico.

HISTORIC PARK 50

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CULTURE + ENTERTAINMENT - GUAYAQUIL MUSIC

THEATER

EXHIBITS

Tuesday, September 4th – 19h00

Wednesday, September 12th and Thursday, September 13th – 20h30

Open throughout the month

SOFÍA: Ecuadorian Singer * Place: Teatro Sanchez Aguilar Admission fee: $15

Oriental Antigone - Uruguay

Tuesday, September 11th – 19h00

VAM Jazz Quartet

Light, Color and Design: A Pre-Columbian Vision 33 archaeological pieces belonging to pre- Incan cultures of the Ecuadorian coast. * Place: Centro Cultural Libertador Simón Bolívar / Free admission Open throughout the month

* Place: Teatro Sanchez Aguilar Admission fee: $15 Tuesday September 18th – 19h00

Le Tango - Coffee Concert * Place: Teatro Sanchez Aguilar Admission fee: $15 Tuesday, September 18th – 20h30

Violin Concert - Hilary Hahn

With traces of classical tragedy and testimonial theater, this work shows the Greek myth about Sophocles treated by one of the conflicts of the Uruguayan society. * Place: Teatro Sanchez Aguilar Wednesday, September 19th until Saturday, September 22nd Sunday, September 23rd – 19h30

The Doctor of his Honor- Spain Unsettling and disturbing, this one of the most popular dramas of Calderon de la Barca. * Place: Teatro Sanchez Aguilar Wednesday, September 26th – 19h00

Tales of Don Pascual (Oral tradition from the province of Manabi)

Unlivable Cities

This exhibit reflects the violent and strident component of modern cities. * Place: Centro Cultural Libertador Simón Bolívar / Free admission

SPECIAL EVENTS Wednesday, September 5th until Saturday, September 8th – 20h30 Sunday, September 9th – 19h30

XV International Performing Arts Festival * Place: Teatro Sanchez Aguilar

* Place: Teatro Sanchez Aguilar Tuesday, September 25th – 17h00

* ADDRESSES:

Guayabera Blues * Place: Teatro Sanchez Aguilar Admission fee: $15 Wednesday, September 26th until Saturday, September 29th – 20h30 Sunday, September 30th – 19h30

* Place: Teatro Sanchez Aguilar Admission fee: $15

The Olmedo Knight - Drama * Place: Teatro Sanchez Aguilar

• Teatro Sanchez Aguilar: Av. Río Esmeralda Km. 1,5 on the way to Samborondón. P: (+593 4) 209 7447 • Centro Cultural Simon Bolivar: Malecón Simón Bolívar & Loja (next to the Imax Theater) P: (+593 4) 230 9384 ext.221 51

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NORTHERN GUAYAQUIL

TOURIST ATTRACTIONS 1. Malecon El Salado 2. Las Peñas neighborhood 3. Santa Ana hill Malecon 2000: 4. IMAX 5. Moorish Clock Tower 6. Crystal Palace PARKS & MONUMENTS 7. Historical Park 8. Centenario Park 9. Seminario Park 10. La Rotonda

MUSEUMS 11. Casa de la Cultura

12. Municipal 13. Nahim Isaias 14. Naval Museum 15. MAAC 16. The Firefighters Museum CHURCHES 17. Cathedral 18. La Merced 19. Santo Domingo PUBLIC SERVICES 20. Post Office 21. Communications 22. Guayas Province Government 23. Municipal Palace

TELEPHONE CO.

BANKS & EXCHANGE

HOSPITALS 24. Kennedy 25. General Hospital AIRPORT SHOPPING & HANDICRAFTS 26. Aventura Plaza 27. Mall del Sol 28. Garzocentro 29. Plaza Quil 30. San Marino Shopping

31. Policentro 32. Las Vitrinas 33. Handicraft Market Malecon 2000 34. Handicraft Market Loja HOTELS 35. Sheraton 36. Hilton Colon 37. Howard Johnson 38. Sonesta 39. Oro Verde 40. Grand Hotel Guayaquil 41. Mansión del Río 42. CityPlaza 43. Palace 44. Unipark 45. Continental 46. HM

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DOWNTOWN GUAYAQUIL

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PREMIUM HOTELS - GUAYAQUIL

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Ecuador a click away

• hotel reservations • domestic e-tickets • premium services • articles • maps

www.thisisecuador.com 56

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PREMIUM HOTELS - GUAYAQUIL

GUAYAQUIL-ECUADOR

★ Cable TV ★ Individual aircon control ★ Minibar ★ Safe box ★ Electronic key card ★ Medical assistance ★ In house restaurant ★ Airport shuttle ★ Free wireless internet ★ Laundry service ★ Free parking ★ Meeting room ★ Event room ★ Limousine service Avenida Boyacá 922 y Víctor Manuel Rendón Tel: +593-4-2309209 • Fax: +593-4-2309209 E-mail: reservas@hotelcityplaza.com.ec / info@hotelcityplaza.com.ec

www.hotelcityplaza.com.ec

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RESTAURANTS AND CAFETERIAS - GUAYAQUIL

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Many of the provinces in Ecuador’s highlands are named after the most important mountain or volcano in its territory: Imbabura, Pichincha, Cotopaxi, Tungurahua, and Chimborazo. Most of the names of the mountains have their origin in an indigenous tongue, mostly Quichua. The word “Andes” itself comes from ANTI, which means “where the sun rises”.

The Ecuadorian Andes include several active volcanoes. Ecuadorians have witnessed and still can experience numerous volcanic eruptions. “Tungurahua” comes from “Tunguri” (esophagus) and Awa (fire); and indeed this volcano spits fire! It is an exciting experience to observe the volcano in action, and as for now it is safe, from a distance, of course. The town of Baños, a favorite spot for tourists, is located on the outskirts of the volcano. The Ecuadorian Andes are the only site on the planet where the Equatorial Line crosses over highlands; in the rest of the world, the Equator crosses through dense tropical forests or the ocean. The pre-Incan cultures that inhabited Quito and its surroundings developed their astronomical knowledge with the help of the clear landmarks surrounding the city. Alexander von Humboldt explored the Ecuadorian Andes and their valleys in 1802. He named them “The Avenue of the Volcanoes”. He believed that he had reached the highest point in the world when he attempted to climb the Chimborazo volcano (20,702 ft), since the Himalayas were still unknown in Europe at the time. If measured from the center of the Earth, the peak of the Chimborazo is indeed the furthest

point on the planet’s surface (because the Earth is wider at the Tropics). Ecuador has twelve peaks over 16,000 ft. The country offers opportunities to hike, trek and mountain climb for all skill levels. Ecuador’s Andes hold numerous breathtaking view sites: lagoons, extensive paramos (moorlands), and mysterious cloudforests… Moreover, the indigenous communities of the region are known for their colorful folklore and remarkable weaving abilities. Several activities can be enjoyed: birdwatching, biking, water sports on the lakes, interacting with indigenous communities, visiting rose plantations, savoring delicious traditional dishes, and much more. The colonial cities of Quito and Cuenca have both been declared World Cultural Heritage Sites. Within easy reach from these cities you can visit impressive natural sites.

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THIS MONTH’S RECOMMENDED

Day Trip to the Cotopaxi: Under the Glance of the Colossus Text and pictures by Luis Alberto Cruzatty, national tour guide

It is 7am in Quito and it is a wonderful day: a stunning blue sky, not a cloud in sight. We hope the weather stays like this for our Cotopaxi day trip is about to begin. Backpacks, bottles of water, cameras, jackets, everything is ready for us to take off on the unique experience of visiting the highest active volcano in the world. Parting from the city of Quito, the route offers an impressive central and southern view of the city along the Oriental Avenue. Soon, the city disappears and the landscape invites us to admire and smell the fresh green pastures of the Machachi Valley, one of the main dairy suppliers for the city. One hour later, we are at the entrance to the Cotopaxi National Park, where a native guide is waiting for the group.

Suddenly, the sky turns gray as we drive from 2700m (8850 ft) to the 3500 m (11500 ft) above sea level. Trees vanish, and the “páramo” (Andean ecosystem found above 3500m) appears. The native guide explains to the group that there is no need to be disappointed with the weather: there is an air current at Cotopaxi’s Northern slope with a 90% possibility to see the entire mountain. She is right! Once in the area, the view of the volcano and the Limpio Pungo Lake is outstanding! The name of the lake stands for “clean doors”, and is known for offering a clear sky spot. There it is… the Cotopaxi colossus, in front of us, imposing presence that tempts visitors to climb. On a sinuous road up to 4500m (14760 ft) we finally arrive to the highest spot reached by car, close to the base camp. From this point an hour hike takes us to the base camp. At this altitude, the air is thin, so it is recommended to walk slowly. We arrive feeling the satisfaction of our achievement! On our walk back to the cars we run into a

unique surprise: an Andean Wolf (Lycalopex culpaeus) walking around, afraid of humans, but close… We are excited until we realize that the reason for this animal’s closeness is that it wants to be fed. It is certainly not allowed however people have been doing it. It is sad to see how human presence can change the habits of these animals. A park ranger tells us that some of them have died with indigestion, and some of them are not hunting anymore. Therefore, it is very important to remember never to feed wild animals in natural areas. The Cotopaxi area, easily accessible from Quito, is a magical place… let’s enjoy it and conserve it so that future generations may also enjoy this spectacle of nature!

ANDEAN WOLF (LYCALOPEX CULPAEUS) 61

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HACIENDA PINSAQUI (OTAVALO - IMBABURA)

HACIENDA CUSIN (SAN PABLO - IMBABURA)

First constructed in 1790, with three centuries of history, romantic Hacienda Pinsaqui invites you to be a part of its magic and legends…

Preserving a historic ambiance, Hacienda Cusin’s new English owner established a country inn of 45 guestrooms, suites and gardencottages. Cusin’s terracotta roof tiles, white walls, towers, cobblestone and fountain courtyards nestle beneath a deep-blue sky in a wide, pastoral, lake valley. Nearby Lago San Pablo reflects the 15,000 feet high Imbabura mountain. Located 90 minutes North of Quito and 15 minutes South of Otavalo, it offers: valley/mountain trails, horseback riding, mountain climbing, bird watching, volleyball and squash courts, game room, children’s playground, library, extensive video library, craft & market village tours, and Spanish lessons.

HACIENDA LA COMPAÑÍA (CAYAMBE- PICHINCHA) One of the outstanding features of Hacienda La Compañía is the house built in French Republican style, which dates back to 1919 and has been in the hands of the same family for generations. The charm of the house is complemented with the striking decorations of thousands of roses which are brought from the Flower Farm belonging to the same family. The owners greet visitors personally and serve breakfast or lunch with traditional ingredients and a homey feel. Visitors are then invited to the Rose Farm to admire the wonders behind all of those flowers back at the house: the people, the methods, the care in each detail, and moreover, the special awareness involved in the social and environmental processes.

Reservations & Information: Phone: (593-6) 291 8316 / 317 www.haciendacusin.com hacienda@cusin.com.ec

Prior reservation is required for a visit. Phone: (593 2) 224 7825 Cel phone: (593 9) 769 4174 haciendalacompania@yahoo.com

Hacienda Pinsaqui offers all the facilities for an unforgettable visit: 30 luxurious suites with fireplaces (some with Jacuzzi bath), restaurant, 200 year old gardens with an artificial lake, horseback riding, historical chapel, and a reading room with fireplaces.

Reservations & Information: Phone: (593-6) 294 6116 / 117 Cel phone: (593-9) 972 7652 Address: Panamericana Norte Km 5 www.haciendapinsaqui.com info@haciendapinsaqui.com

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PREMIUM HACIENDAS - ANDES HACIENDA SAN AGUSTIN DE CALLO (COTOPAXI)

POSADA INGAPIRCA (CAÑAR)

HOSTERIA UZHUPUD (AZUAY)

One hour south of Quito nestled within the Avenue of the Volcanoes stands this unique hacienda, San Agustin de Callo, built on the site of an Inca palace, and one of the most important archaeological Inca sites in Ecuador. It is the point furthest north from Cusco of Imperial style construction and constitutes the only lived-in museum of Inca Imperial and Spanish Colonial style. The location of the site at the foot of Cotopaxi, highest active volcano in the world, near Indian villages and local markets, with its historical significance and archaeological value and its architectural blend of unusual styles contribute to make San Agustin a unique and magical place to stay.

Located in the most beautiful and mysterious region in the Province of Cañar, it is a charming and old country house situated 500 meters from the most important archeological complex in Ecuador. You can also explore the Incan and Cañaris ruins, where you can enjoy the Andean landscape, as well as the peace and harmony that nature has to offer. It is an unforgettable experience. Our establishment and staff strive to meet all the needs and any special requests of our clients. It specializes in traditional Ecuadorian cuisine. All rooms are carpeted, with heating & private bathroom. There is also a game room with a fireplace, green areas, bar and restaurant.

A wonderful place in the highlands of Ecuador. Hosteria Uzhupud is located along the banks of the Paute River, thirty minutes from Cuenca. Traditional colonial architecture and nature blend together to remind visitors of the pleasure and privilege of living. Uzhupud means “Hot Chili Pepper Valley”. Hostería Uzhupud is a delightful place to visit and stay. The “Hacienda” has a wonderful history and dates back over 100 years. Eulalia Vintimilla de Crespo, one of the family matriarchs, also produced a recipe book named “El Sabor de los Recuerdos,” quite famous in Ecuador. Enjoy her recipes in the restaurant Doña Eulalia.

Reservations & Information: Phone: (593-7) 282 7401 / 283 1120 Fax: (593-7) 283 2340 Cuenca office: Calle Larga 693 & Borrero www.grupo-santaana.net santaana@etapaonline.net.ec

Reservations & Information: Phone: (593-7) 222 8339 Fax: (593-7) 222 8373 Address: Km 32 Cuenca-Paute road www.uzhupud.com e-mail: ventas@uzhupud.com

Reservations & Information: Quito - (593-2) 290 6157 / 8 Hacienda - (593-3) 271 9160 www.incahacienda.com info@incahacienda.com

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THE NORTHERN ANDES

Mountains, Lakes & Folklore The Northern Sierra offers magnificent scenery of volcanoes, sparkling lakes and patchwork-covered hills. Taking the Panamericana highway north of Quito, the first highlight is the Cayambe volcano (18,997 ft), crossed by the Equator. This snowpeak overlooks the city with the OTAVALO

same name, which in the last decade has grown in importance because of the rose plantations. Flowers are Ecuadorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s fourth largest export. Renowned in Cayambe are the home-made cheese and bizcochos (buttery biscuits). Further north is the province of Imbabura (see map on next page). A visit to Ecuador is never complete without at least a few days spent here, the province of lakes and mountains, inspiring landscapes and folklore. This province is only 50 miles north of Quito on the PanAmerican Highway.

ATTRACTIONS IN IMBABURA SAN PABLO LAKE This is the largest lake in the province. Indigenous people fish 64

early in the morning in their straw canoes, and also bathe and wash their clothes in this lake during the day. There are inns, farms and restaurants where you can spend a weekend or just a day full of entertainment around the lake. You can also take a boat ride around the lake, or enjoy other water sports such as sailing, water skiing, jet skiing, etc.

OTAVALO INDIGENOUS MARKET Otavalo is a small city of about 50,000 inhabitants. It lies at 8,300 ft above sea level in a spring-like valley, situated between the Imbabura volcano (15,118 feet) and the Cotacachi volcano (16,200 feet). The most famous indigenous market in Ecuador is held here. Although the market is bigger on Saturdays, you can visit it any day and find an impressive variety of all kinds of

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NORTHERN ANDES

Tumbabiro

LEGENDS

Gas station Sightseeing Airport Archaeology Handicrafts Typical food Thermal Springs Capital of Province Cities / towns Pan- American Highway Secondary road

TOURIST SITES . LODGING

Mojanda Lake

Cotacachi Leather Market

Hacienda Cusín

Peguche Waterfalls

Hostería Puerto Lago

Hostería Hacienda Pinsaquí

San Pablo lake

Hostería La Mirage

Yaguarcocha Lake

Hacienda La Compañía

Otavalo Indigenous Market

Cuicocha lake 65

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Ecuadorian handicrafts. At dawn you may see indigenous people arriving at the market place from many mountain trails surrounding the city. They come from nearby villages and towns such as Peguche, Agato and Iluman, to sell their products. One may visit the workshops of these local weavers working on back strap and Spanish treadle looms, as well as other artisans at work making felt hats, knitting sweaters or weaving straw mats.

COTACACHI VILLAGE This village is known for its leatherwork. You can find an excellent choice of jackets, skirts, boots, briefcases, bags, riding equipment and wallets. Cotacachi is home to the only high school in Ecuador that teaches leather work. They specialize in shoes, however, they teach the students to make all leather products.

CUICOCHA LAKE The crater lake has an impressive landscape of deep blue waters surrounded by hills. Take a hike around the lake (4 to 5 hours). If you are lucky, you will see a condor.

CONDOR PARK Just 3 miles away from Otavalo, the Condor Park was laid out. This thirtyacre park is managed by a foundation dedicated to the care and rescue of predatory birds such as hawks, eagles, vultures and owls. This park is unique in many ways. It is located on a hill known as the “Pukara Alto”, an energetic center since pre-Columbian times, where ruins remain of a religious pre-Inca

temple. The sights are amazing, 360 degrees around of mountains, lake, valleys and towns. Large cages are distributed along a cobblestone walk through the park to admire a variety of birds such as the Barred Hawk, the King Vulture, the Greater Red-Headed Vulture, the Spectacled Owl, the Arctic Owl, the Mottled Owl, among others. Finally, you will run into the large cage of the impressive but endangered Andean Condor (Vultur gryphus), now easily bred in captivity. Open from Tuesday thru Sunday from 9h30 to 17h00. Admission fee: $3,50 for adults, $1,75 children and senior citizens. Phone: 08 431-1769 info@parquecondor.org www.parquecondor.org

SAN ANTONIO Shortly before entering Ibarra, a right-hand turn leads into San Antonio, the home of expert wood carvers. As you visit the various shops, you will marvel at their talent. Visitors can watch some of the craftsmen at work in their studios.

IBARRA CITY This clean, freshly painted colonial city, capital of the province, is also known as the white city. It lies at 7,000 ft, and has a population of approximately 110,000. Ibarra enjoys one of the best climates of the Sierra. Typical products include arrope de mora (blackberry syrup) and nogadas (a sweet made with walnuts). Don’t miss the delicious “paila” ice creams (whipped natural fruit).

YAGUARCOCHA LAKE This lake is only a short distance from the center of Ibarra. Its name means “blood lake”. Years ago, a bloody battle among indigenous peoples took place at this lake, thus the name. Now Yaguarcocha is home to an auto racetrack. Every so often international car racing events take place here.

ATTRACTIONS IN CARCHI Carchi is the northernmost province of the Ecuadorian sierra. The Province borders with Colombia.

EL ANGEL ECOLOGICAL RESERVE The 15,715 hectares of this Ecological Reserve lie at 11,950 to 15,640 ft. The paramo in El Angel is covered by gigantic “Frailejones” (Espeletia pycnophylla), a plant specie that is only found in the high paramo ecosystem. Another plant species in the reserve are the Polylepis trees, which have many layers covering their trunks for insulation. Given that the layers of these trunks are thin and can be torn like paper, they are locally known as “arboles de papel” (paper trees). El Angel is considered a water sponge as the area provides water for the entire province. Several rivers have their origin at El Angel and join together to form the basin of the Mira and El Angel Rivers. Beautiful lagoons are also found at this Reserve. Photos by: Ministerio de Turismo & Gustavo Vallejo.

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PREMIUM SERVICES - NORTHERN ANDES

Gourmet Restaurant

LA MIRAGE - EL COLIBRI Superb National and International Cuisine

Reservations: (593-6) 2915-237 / 2915 -077 Cotacachi-Ecuador

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QUITO

Quito: First World Heritage Site Photos courtesy of: Quito Tourism www.quito.com.ec

Besides its amazing landscapes, Quito is known for its treasures of colonial churches, paintings, sculptures and carvings. The Spanish Colonial Period extends from the XVI to the XVIII Century. Ecuadorian colonial art combines the European Renaissance and Baroque styles with the indigenous and mestizo influences. With the arrival of the Spaniards, the Roman Catholic Church became the center of religious instruction and the largest patron of the arts. As part of the acculturation of the indigenous people, the Spanish established painting and sculpture

schools where Spanish artists trained the indigenous population in the arts. As a result, the Quitenian School (Escuela Quiteña) became famous in Latin America for its talented artists, including Bernardo de Legarda and the indigenous artists Caspicara and Pampite. Miguel de Santiago, Javier de Goribar, Manuel Samaniego and Padre Bedón were othe outstanding representatives of this art school. Scholars consider their contributions to colonial art as some of the most valuable in America. Thus, the UNESCO declared Quito a “World Cultural Heritage Site” in 1978. However, the history of Quito stretches far beyond the arrival of the Spaniards. Before the Spaniard Sebastian de Benalcázar conquered the city in 1534, the Incas had conquered it in the XV century. At the time when the Incas arrived, they found an organized civilization: the Shyris. Furthermore, recent discoveries have uncovered archeological

sites that date back to 1500 BC. These archeological remains are aligned with the summer solstice and the winter equinox, demonstrating that the native people had an impressive knowledge of the course of the sun. These cultures are believed to have migrated from the Ecuadorian Coast. Quitsato, the original name of the city, means “Middle of the Earth” in the ancient ‘tsafiqui’ language. Quito is the only site on the planet where the Equator crosses over highlands. On the rest of the Earth’s surface, it crosses through jungle or ocean. Therefore, the pre-Inca cultures were able to develop their astronomical knowledge with the help of the clear landmarks surrounding the city: the Pichincha volcano (15,000 ft) to the West, the Antisana (18,700 ft) to the east, and the peak of the snow-caped Cayambe (18,725 ft) to the Northeast, almost precisely on the Equator. The city itself emerges over

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chair, the central painting by Manuel Samaniego and the statues by Caspicara are in neoclassical style. A museum that displays the clothes used by the priests on the XVII century (“casullas”), choral books and silver pieces of the church is open Monday thru Saturday from 9h30 to 17h30. Guided tour is $1.50 for adults and $1 for children. Phone: 257 0371.

9,184 ft above sea level; it is the second highest capital in the world. Thus, Quito could be considered the best natural astronomical observatory. Quito extends along the Eastern side of the Pichincha volcano. The city is long and thin, with a length of approx. 22 miles and a width of 2-3 miles. The temperature in the city varies along the day… in the early morning and at night it can be around 10ºC, and at noon it can reach up to 25ºC. The geographical conditions of the zone give place to a number of ecosystems, thus, Quito’s surroundings offer a diversity of landscapes, each with unique flora and fauna.

SIGHTSEEING We suggest that you to begin your sightseeing at “La Plaza de la Independencia”, from where you can walk to most of the downtown sites. This main plaza is surrounded by four buildings that represent the four ruling powers of the colonial period: the Government Palace to the west, the Municipal Palace to the east, the Archbishop’s Palace to the north, and the Cathedral to the south.

THE GOVERNMENT PALACE It is not possible to visit the interiors of the palace, however, from the entrance door one is able to appreciate the

CENTRO CULTURAL METROPOLITANO

LA COMPAÑIA

Andalusian patios that have halfpoint arches and water fountains in the center. You can see a scale model of the Independence Square displayed at the entrance to the Palace.

THE CATHEDRAL This church holds an interesting collection of sculptures and paintings from the Escuela Quiteña. Among the most important is the “Descending of Christ” by Caspicara. It is a masterpiece of expressionism. As in most Ecuadorian and Latin American churches, many styles are used in the construction of the Cathedral: late Gothic in the arches, Moorish in the ceilings and Baroque in the main altar. The choir, the stone Episcopal

The cultural centre is located on the corner of the Main Square, next to the Government’s Palace. The Jesuits originally constructed this building in the XVII Century. In 1767, when Charles III of Spain banished the Jesuit Order from the colonized territories, the buildings became a public University. In the last decade of the XVIII century, the buildings became the army headquarters of the Spanish Royal troops sent from Lima to repress the early independence efforts. Thus, the building was known as the “Royal Barrack of Lima”. In this building, the heroic efforts for independence ended up in a massacre of a number of patriots from Quito on August 2, 1810. The Alberto Mena Caamaño Museum displays this massacre with life-size wax sculptures, as well as other important scenes of Quito’s history. The Cultural Center also holds a museum of colonial art and the Municipal Library as well. There is also a Contemporary Art exhibit room, which houses temporary exhibitions. Open Tuesday thru Sunday from 9h00 to 18h00. Admission fee to the museum is $1.50; students and senior citizens $0.75; children $0.50. Phone: 295-7062.

EL SAGRARIO

INDEPENDENCE SQUARE

This church was originally the main chapel of the Cathedral, built for the cult of the Holy Sacrament. It has been kept for this service to this day. The stone facade with its ornamented Salomon columns is an excellent frame for a high Baroque that leaves 69

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SAN FRANCISCO

practically no space without ornamentation. This style is typical of Bernardo de Legarda’s sculpture. It is located next to the Cathedral. Visiting hours: Mon–Fri: 9h-17h00, Sat: 07h-20h00, Sun 07h-13h00. Admission is free. For more information, call 228 4398.

SAN FRANCISCO CHURCH AND PLAZA

This complex gave the capital of Ecuador its proper name: San Francisco de Quito. It is the oldest in Quito, built in 1536-1580. San Francisco is the biggest religious architectonic complex in America, with over 8,670 acres, including the convent with 6 internal patios. The atrium running along one side of the plaza opens in the middle to give way to a beautiful staircase. The facade has a style similar to that of the Escorial in Spain. The inside is Baroque style. The coffer ceiling in the narthex has rich Moorish style ornamentation with paintings by Miguel de Santiago. It is interesting to note among the ornate details images of the sun god, the Inca divinity. The main altar holds the original masterpiece by Legarda: “La Virgen de Quito” (Quito’s Virgin). This sculpture is the only winged

image of Virgin Mary in colonial art. The San Francisco Plaza was an antique “Tianguez”, which means ‘market’ in the native Nahuatl language. During Pre-Columbian times, Plaza San Francisco was a lively commercial center, hosting approximately ten ethnic dominations from the neighboring valleys. San Francisco is located between Sucre and Bolívar Streets. Church visiting hours: Friday thru Sunday 17h00-18h00. Free admission. Phone: 2959911.

CANTUÑA CHAPEL Located at one side of the San Francisco atrium. The Calvary woodcarvings on the main altar are some of Legarda’s most outstanding masterpieces. A legend of the chapel says that Francisco Cantuña (the indigenous man that paved the atrium with arge stone blocks) constructed the chapel with the treasures saved from the Kingdom of Quito. Visiting hours: Tuesday thru Thursday 8h00 - 17h00. Free admission. Phone: 2281124.

SAN FRANCISCO MUSEUM Located next to the church at the San Francisco Square. The zaguan (entrance hall), the main cloister,

the renaissance stairway, the chorus and the exposition lounge are now the site of a number of selected works of the Franciscan collection. You can find works of Andrés Sánchez Galque (of indigenous origin), Miguel de Santiago, Mateo Mexía, the European authors Zurbarán and Bernardo de Bitti, with their respective schools, among others of the XVI-XVIII centuries. Among the sculptures, you can find the glass eyes characteristic of the XVIII century. You will also find pieces of furniture from the XVIII century. The museum is called Fray Pedro Gocial in honor of the first painting instructor. Open Monday thru Saturday 09h00 to 17h30, Sunday 9h00 to 13h30. Admission fee: $ 2 adults, $1 children. Phone: 295 2911. MUSEUM OF COLONIAL ART After half a decade of refurbishment, one of Quito’s oldest and most emblematic museums reopened at the end of April 2010. The Museum of Colonial Art houses a fantastic collection of works from the 16th to 19th centuries, ranking among the most important

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in the country. The museum is housed within a beautiful colonial mansion, which dates back to the late XVI century. Located at the corner of Cuenca and Mejía St. Open Tuesday to Friday 9h-17h00, Sat 10h-14h00. Phone: 2282-297. Free Admission. CASA DEL ALABADO MUSEUM OF PRE-COLOMBIAN ART This private museum is housed within a colonial mansion in the Old Town. It is worth visiting just to admire the incredible restoration and regeneration work. It acquired its name from the inscription on the lintel of the front door, which carries an ‘alabado’ or prayer to the house, and states that it was built in 1671 – making it one of the oldest surviving edifications in the capital and in the country. The museum is divided into several spaces and is not ordered chronologically, but rather by themes that focus on pre-Colombian Man’s concept of the cosmos. It’s a true museum-journey through the ancient spiritual past of the country: stimulating, challenging and surprising. Guided tours are available at 10h30,

12h30 and 15h00 in English, Spanish and French (Approx. 45 min) with additional cost. Audio-guides are rented for $2, with explanations both in English and Spanish, plus a selection of music especially composed for the museum. Located at Cuenca N1-41 & Bolívar. Open Tuesday to Saturday 9h30-17h30 Sunday: 10h00 to 16h00. Phone: 228 0940. Admission fee: $3. For children until 12 years old $ 1. http://alabado.org

LA COMPAÑÍA DE JESÚS CHURCH This is one of the richest churches in America. The extraordinary facade can be described as a lacework on stone. Six Salomonic columns in the lower part support a second body of different widths, reminiscent of the Church of Gesu in Rome. The columns are a copy of those by Bernini in the Vatican. The splendor that meets your eye as you go into the church is unforgettable: the vaulted ceiling and the walls with beautiful Moorish ornamentation, the perfect harmony and the richness of the main altar, the reproduction of the

Salomon columns of the facade, the incredible clustered Baroque on the tribunes on both sides of the main altar, in the pulpit, and in the lateral chapels. Everything is covered with gold leaf. It is a magnificent exhibit of foliage, vines, fruits, birds and caryatids. The Holy Trinity in the main altar and the images of Saint Francis and Saint Ignatius in the side altars are works of the famous Legarda. Paintings of the prophets and works of Goribar hang in the majestic archery that divides the aisles. It is located at Benalcazar St. Open Monday thru Friday 09h30 to 17h30, Saturdays and holidays 09h30 to 16h30, Sundays 13h30 to 16h30. Phone: 2581895. Admission fee is US$ 3, and includes guide service.

MARÍA AUGUSTA URRUTIA MUSEUM Located at García Moreno 760. Follow the life and activities of a wealthy and very generous woman of Quito’s early XX century. Observe the architecture of a typical house in colonial Quito. Enjoy the beautifully decorated interiors (especially the French antiques), and the distinctive clothing and artifacts of the time. Open

LA COMPAÑÍA DE JESÚS CHURCH COURTESY OF FRANCISCO CAIZAPANTA J. 71

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students, $1 children and senior citizens. Nighttime tours with theatrical representations upon request. Price: $5 per person (includes a cocktail). Phone: 228 3882/3.

LA RONDA

LA RONDA ST.

Tuesdays to Fridays from 10h00 to 18h00, weekends 9h30 to 17h30. Admission fee: $2 for adults, $1 senior citizens and $0.50 children (includes a guided tour). For more information call: 258-0103.

MUSEO DE LA CIUDAD Located at García Moreno 572 and Rocafuerte, this museum is open Tuesday thru Sunday from 9h30 to 17h30. Follow everyday Quito life through the centuries in this beautiful colonial building that once was the San Juan de Dios Hospital (1565). Entrance fee: $3 adults, $2

A stroll through La Ronda is a great way to get a feeling of traditional life in colonial Quito. Within only two blocks, one finds artisans working on traditional handicrafts such as candles and embroidery, many “tiendas” (small stores), bakeries and traditional restaurants. Moreover, a variety of cultural activities are organized both on the street and inside the different bars and cafeterias. During the late XIX and early XX Centuries, La Ronda was home to several musicians, poets, historians and other important figures of Quito’s history. This neighborhood inspired poetry and some of the most romantic “Pasillos” (traditional music).

Guayaquil Streets. The construction of this church was finished in 1538 and has been remodeled due to earthquake damage. The vault underneath the chorus, the wood carved columns, and the gilded altars are the only remains of the original construction.

SAN AGUSTIN CONVENT The first thing to admire here are the beautiful cloisters in three different levels, the fountain in the colonial patio carved from a single block of stone, the coffer ceiling in the lower cloister, and the huge collection of paintings by the artist Miguel de Santiago. The artist spent most of his life working in the convent to finish the task of painting the scenes of St. Augustine’s life.Open Monday thru Friday 09h0012h30 and 14h30-17h00. Saturday 9h00 to 13h00. Admission is $2, children is $0.50 and senior citizens $1. Phone: 295 5525.

SALA CAPITULAR

BENALCAZAR HOUSE-MUSEUM This museum displays paintings of the XVII century and sculptures of the XVII and XIII century. It is located at Olmedo and Benalcazar St. Open Monday thru to Friday 09h30 to 13h00 and 15h30 to 19h00.

SAN AGUSTIN CHURCH Located at the corner of Chile and

In this same convent you will find one of the most important historical sites in Spanish America. The first Act of Independence was signed here on August 10th, 1809. The Calvary masterpiece by a XVII century Quitenian artist named Olmos is located to the right of this large room. Entrance fee: US$ 1.

JUNÍN STREET This charming street is in the downtown colonial district of Quito. Colorful houses and decorated balconies together with a peaceful atmosphere make it a place worth visiting. Along the street you can visit: Manuela Saenz Museum, the Ecuadorian Architecture Museum, the National Watercolour Museum, the XVI Century San Marcos Church, Engravers from the Quitenian School of Art, and a famous guitar factory.

LA MERCED CHURCH AND CONVENT

LA MERCED 72

One can admire a stone-carved pagan god, Neptune. Also noticeable are Bernardo Legarda’s main altar woodcarvings and the beautiful image of

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Our Lady of Mercy in stone. Visiting hours: Monday thru Saturday from 7h00-12h00 and 14h30-17h30. Free admission. Phone: 2280743.

CAMILO EGAS MUSEUM This museum was created to honor one of the most celebrated Ecuadorian artists of the XX century. It holds a permanent exhibit of Camilo Egas’ paintings, in a display that allows one to learn about the different phases in which the artist worked (indigenism, expressionism, surrealism, cubism and abstraction of the shape) in a didactical and hands-on manner. Address: Venezuela 1302 and Esmeraldas. Open: Thursday - Friday 9h-13h00/weekends and holidays 10h-16h00. Free Admission. Phone: 257-2012

CASA SAN LUCAS This antique manor that dates back to the seventeenth century offers an art gallery with itinerary exhibits, a cafe/bar, a musical room with a large screen where visitors can enjoy music videos, and much more. Visitors can take a tour through the whole house, appreciating antique furniture, silverware and pieces of art. Open Tuesday – Friday 11h00 18h00, weekends 10h30- 19h00. Address: Venezuela 1283 and Esmeraldas. Phone:2950923

SAN DIEGO CONVENT The Saint Francis congregation built this church to provide the priests and laymen with a place of retreat. Along the corridors are paintings dating back to the XVII C, which had been covered with lime for years and are now being restored. A genuine manifestation of syncretism! Open every day 09h30-13h00 and 14h30-17h00. Phone: 295 2516. Admission fee: $2.00.

EL PANECILLO Many historical happenings took place on this natural hill that stands in Quito. “Panecillo” means “little bread” referring to its peculiar size and shape. The

Virgin that stands on the hill, which consists of 7,000 pieces of aluminum, is a modern representation of the famous “Virgen de Quito”, the unique winged dancing Virgin conceived by Bernardo Legarda in the XVII century. (The original masterpiece can be seen at the main altar of the San Francisco Church). There is a balcony in the upper part that provides a beautiful view of the city. Open Monday thru Thursday 9h00-18h00, Friday thru Sunday 9h00- 21h00. The entrance fee to the interior of the monument is $1 for adults, $0.50 for children.

INTERESTING PLACES IN THE NORTH OF QUITO TELEFERIQO Quito’s TeleferiQo (cable cars) is located on Cruz Loma, one of the hills on the slopes of the active Pichincha volcano (15,000 ft). The cable cars take off at 9,680 ft and reach 13,287 ft in 8 – 10 min! On the way up you can observe how the vegetation changes rapidly with the increasing altitude. If you are lucky enough to get one of those clear summer days, you can see the city at your feet and the Andean mountain range in all its splendor! When reaching the top, because of the altitude, make sure to take it easy! A great idea is to drink a hot “te de coca” (coca tea) or get some oxygen at the oxygen bar. In any case be sure to rest before hiking, horseback riding, or any other of the exciting options you have on top. If you are adventurous, you can climb to the summit of the “Rucu Pichincha”. The cost of the cable car is $8.50 roundtrip. Open Monday thru Sunday from 8h00 to 20h00. At the foot

of TeleferiQo you can enjoy VulQano Park, offering carts, roller coasters and other exciting games for children of all ages. Phone: 222 2997

GUAYASAMÍN MUSEUM AND “LA CAPILLA DEL HOMBRE” A stop at Guayasamin’s housemuseum is a must for any visitor to Quito. This museum exhibits an excellent sample of pre-Columbian, colonial and contemporary art from the private collections of the famous Ecuadorian artist Oswaldo Guayasamín (1919-1999). Shortly before his death, Oswaldo Guayasamín donated these collections and his works to the city of Quito. The museum is open Monday thru Friday from 10h00 to 17h00. Entrance fee: $4.00 adults. Close to the house-museum, is “La Capilla del Hombre” (Man’s Chapel). Guayasamín dreamed that his chapel would pay tribute to the American preColumbian man. It is a rectangular construction of two floors, with a strong similarity to Incan temples. Part of the roof is a dome covered with copper plate. Inside it is covered with an unfinished mural of the artist, which was left intact. The altar of the Chapel holds an eternal flame in defense of peace and human rights. Open Tuesday thru Sunday from 10h00 to 17h00. Entrance fee: $4.00 adults, $2.00 senior citizens & students. Phone: (593-2) 333-0722 / 723.

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ANHALZER-VALDIVIESO COLLECTION

MINDALAE- ETHNO-HISTORIC MUSEUM

The showrooms of the AnhalzerValdivieso Collection offer visitors an image of the splendor of ancient Ecuador, with a selected presentation of archeology, popular and colonial art. Open Monday thru Friday from 9h00 to 19h00. Saturday from 10h00 to 18h00. Address: Colón Ave. E10-53. Phone: 25-41315.

QUITO BOTANICAL GARDEN

GUÁPULO CHURCH This sanctuary is located in a little village 1.5 miles heading down from the Hotel Quito. The sanctuary can be reached by car in about 10 minutes or you can walk down a colonial stone paved path which was the route followed by Francisco de Orellana on his exploration that lead to the discovery of the Amazon River. The facade and the dome of the church have a simple neoclassic style. The main altar painted by Miguel de Santiago and the image of our Lady of Guadalupe by Diego de Robles are original masterpieces. Many consider the pulpit carved by the indigenous sculptor Menacho as the most beautiful in America. Open Monday thru Saturday 09h00 to 12h30 and 15h00 to 18h00. Phone: 256 5652. Entrance fee: US$1.50.

CENTRAL BANK MUSEUM This museum is located at the “Casa de la Cultura” on 6 de Diciembre and Patria Avenues. Pre-Colonial, Colonial and contemporary art appear in 1,417 pieces exhibited permanently and in temporary displays. It also presents an opportunity to learn about the origin, evolution and history of Ecuador.

Visiting hours: Tuesday thru Friday 09h00 to 17h00/ Weekends and holidays 10h00 to 16h00. Free Admission. Guide service available. Phone: 222-3258.

MODERN ART AND MUSICAL INSTRUMENTS MUSEUM As you enter the museum, you first encounter an important collection of Ecuadorian paintings from the XIX century with a variety of themes and styles: religion, portraits, landscapes, among others. Continuing the visit, you can find important works of art by some of the most renowned Ecuadorian artists: Oswaldo Guayasamín, Eduardo Kingman, and Camilo Egas, among others. Following this is the Musical Instruments Museum. Many of the displayed instruments date to pre-Columbian times. Next to this exhibit you can find an important ethnographic display of the different indigenous communities of the Ecuadorian Andes. Address: Los Espejos Bldg, located between: 6 de Diciembre, 12 de Octubre and Patria Avenues. There is an entrance at each of the avenues. Open Tuesday thru Friday from 9h00 to 13h00 and from 14h00 to 17h00 / Saturdays from 10h00 to 14h00.

EL EJIDO PARK It is located at the intersection of Patria and Amazonas Avenues. If you like contemporary art, this is the place to be on weekends. A walk in the park will bring you face to face with beautiful paintings and other handicrafts. You may bargain with the artists to get reasonable prices.

Explore the fascinating world of plants! This garden displays more than 1,200 orchid species, along with other unique flora species of Ecuador! It is located at Rumipamba St. inside “La Carolina” Park. Open Monday thru Friday from 8h00 to 17h00. Weekends 9h00 to 17h00. Admission fee: $3.50 adults, $2 children.

LA MARISCAL “La Mariscal” can be considered the entertainment district of Quito, where you find a variety of restaurants, bars, cafes, internet cafes, Spanish schools, and a large range of hosting options. This area is highlighted on the Quito map in a red square. Plaza El Quinde (Reina Victoria and Foch) is one of the most popular meeting points for both Ecuadorians and tourists. Every Wednesday night at 20h30 live music presentations take place at this charming Plaza.

GALERIA ECUADOR GOURMET This unique Galeria holds exclusive quality products 100% made in Ecuador. It also includes a cafeteria. Address: Reina Victoria N24-263 & Lizardo Garcia. Phone: 2239469 / 2258440. E-mail: info@galeriaecuador.com www.galeriaecuador.com

MERCADO ARTESANAL This typical handicraft market offers a variety of handicrafts from all over the country for excellent prices, displayed in more than 100 colorful stands. If you are not able to visit the Otavalo indigenous market in the

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Imbabura province, this market in Quito is a must. It is located at Jorge Washington St. between Reina Victoria and Juan Leon Mera St. Open every day from 10h00 to 19h00.

MINDALAE - ETHNO-HISTORIC MUSEUM OF HANDICRAFTS “Mindalae” is the pre-Hispanic name of the indigenous tradesman who, with his basket tied to his back, walked long distances carrying merchandise to offer at the popular market called “tianguez”. The second floor of the museum holds an exhibit of utensils from Amazonian cultures, as well as handicrafts are available for sale. The third floor presents a display of the origins of the natural fibers used in textiles, such as seeds and wood from native trees. Finally, at the fourth floor, the museum holds a demonstration of indigenous skills in textile production. Open Monday thru Saturday from 9h30 to 17h30. Sundays from 10h30 to 16h30. Located at the corner of Reina Victoria and La Niña St. Admission fee: $3 general, $1.50 students and senior citizens.

ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITES RUMIPAMBA ARCHAEOLOGICAL AND ECOLOGICAL PARK The most antique stone walls found in Quito are those of Rumipamba Park, a 32- hectare complex located in a former private hacienda, now in the heart of the city of Quito. The walls date back to 400 AD. Rumi means stone and pamba, pampas or plains. Rumipamba has some huge stones from the last important eruption of the nearby Guagua Pichincha volcano, which took place in 1660. The Rumipamba site includes a gully that has become a niche for flora and fauna, especially birds. Several flora species including trees, medicinal plants, fruits and others, are found inside the park. It also includes a “culunco”, which is an antique road connecting the highlands with the coast for the commercialization of

products. These roads date back to the Yumbo culture, a pre- Incan civilization that inhabited the cloud forests surrounding Quito. Address: between Occidental, América and Mariana de Jesús Avenues (North West) Open: Wednesdays thru Sundays from 8h00-16h00. Free admission.

LA FLORIDA BURIAL CHAMBERS La Florida Burial Chambers date back to 220 – 640 AD, belonging to the Quitus culture. To this day, the FONSAL has excavated 10 burial chambers, which are 15- 17 meters (49– 56 ft) deep and 2 meters (6.5 ft) in diameter. Large amounts of amazing ceramics, spondylus and other shells, jewelry, wooden objects and gold were found in the chambers alongside hundreds of bodies. The funeral architecture reflects the cosmovision of the Quitus: the human bodies were given back to Mother Earth’s womb. In order to present the archaeological findings in a didactic manner, the FONSAL has done a great job of reproducing one of the burial chambers with 16 bodies and their respective ritual objects. The replica of the faces was done by experts through a systematic reproduction based on the skulls called “forensic medicine”. Moreover, the FONSAL has placed a

“robot” that reproduces images from the original walls of one of the burial chambers on a screen so that visitors can closely admire the traces of the original structure of the chambers. The complex includes a small museum that exhibits original objects found in the burial chambers. Some of the most impressive pieces are the spondylus ponchos, which were worn by only a few of the buried bodies of hierarchical importance. Address: Calle Antonio Costa, between Román and Fernando Corral St., at the San Vicente de La Florida neighborhood in Northern Quito. Open: Wednesdays thru Sundays from 8h00-16h30. Free admission.

SURROUNDINGS THE MONUMENT ON THE EQUATOR It is located approximately 20 minutes away from Quito, at San Antonio de Pichincha. The “Mitad del Mundo City” surrounding the monument includes several restaurants and folklore shops, museums about the missions that measured the Earth, the “Solar Culture Museum” (with a display of the latest investigations about the real middle of the world), and a Planetarium. Inside the monument is an interesting Ethnic Museum. You can shop and place one foot on the northern Hemisphere and the other on the southern Hemisphere. Entrance fee to the

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Open Monday thru Sunday from 9h30 to 17h30. Phone: 2395122. English speaking guides are available. Guided visit: $3 adults, $1.50 children. For more information visit www.museointinan.com.ec

SURROUNDING VALLEYS

INTI-ÑAN SOLAR MUSEUM

“Middle of the World City” is $2.00, to the Ethnic Museum $3.00, to the Planetarium $1.50. Visiting hours: Monday thru Thursday 09h0018h00, Friday, Saturday and Sunday 09h00-19h00. Phone: 239 4804

INTI-ÑAN SOLAR MUSEUM Located 200 meters (650 feet) north of the Middle of the World roundabout on Autopista Manuel Córdova Galarza, this didactic in situ museum allows for visitors to witness and participate in several experiments that give evidence to the fact of being exactly at Latitude 0. Visitors can stand an egg on a nail, witness firsthand the Coriolis effect in the Northern and Southern hemispheres only a few meters away, feel the loss of balance when walking along the Equator line, along with other entertaining and impressive experiences, possible only at the Middle of the World! You can also stamp your passport to document your visit to Latitude 0. Furthermore, the museum also holds a Solar Clock, an Anthropological Totemic Forest of the Andean cultures, typical huts of pre- Hispanic cultures of the region, didactic samples of Ecuadorian cultures, as well as native flora and fauna. 76

The mountains and cliffs surrounding Quito make it difficult for the city to spread out to the sides, thus, it has expanded to the surrounding valleys: Cumbaya, Tumbaco and Los Chillos. Little more than a decade ago, these valleys consisted mostly of open pastures and country cottages. Now they offer all the commodities of a modern city: supermarkets, malls, schools, universities, hospitals, restaurants, good lodging and even movie theaters, but they fortunately have maintained their rustic charm and decidedly slower pace than Quito. Only a few kilometers from the bustling city, but several hundred meters below, the valleys provide warmer weather and a relaxed rural feeling, preferred by young families and many foreigners who live and work in Quito. TULIPE ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE-MUSEUM Tulipe was built by the Yumbo people, who inhabited the north and northwestern valleys and mountains around Quito from around 800 to 1660 AD. It’s thought that the Yumbo people migrated to the Amazon after

a great eruption of the Pichincha Volcano in 1660, and this theory is currently being investigated. Although disregarded by the Spanish chroniclers and subsequent historians, the site at Tulipe, as well as the 2,000 pyramids and mounds now unearthed, point to an important nation. It’s thought that it controlled the crucial trade route between the Pacific coast, the Andes and the Amazon to the east. The remains at Tulipe suggests it was the civilization’s main ceremonial site. It is made up of eight structures, one of which one is of Incan construction, as the conquering Incas built their temple on top of the existing one. Water played a primordial role at Tulipe, with many pools reflecting its ceremonial importance. The “Yumbo People Interpretation Centre” houses didactic information on the site and the Yumbos, and is the starting point for future investigations. Open Wednesday thru Sunday from 09h00 to 17h00. Located between the towns of Nanegalito and Gualea, on the main road Calacali-La Independencia, which heads northwest from Quito. Take the sign-posted road on the right soon after the small town of Nanegalito. Phone: 285-0635. Admission fee: $3 adults, $1 children and students.

TULIPE ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE-MUSEUM

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CULTURE + ENTERTAINMENT - QUITO MUSIC Tuesday, September 4th – 19h30

Israel Chamber Orchestra Concert

* Place: Teatro Nacional Sucre Admission fee: $25 - $60 Sunday, September 9th – 17h00

“Pablo Held Trio” Piano, bass and drums

Friday, September 14th – 19h30

Singing and Piano Recital David Fruci, vocals Daniel Brown, piano * Place: Casa de la Música Admission fee: $5 Saturday, September 15th – 19h00

National Symphonic Orchestra Concert Russian program * Place: Casa de la Música Admission fee: $5 * Place: Casa de la Musica Admission fee: $60 Wednesday, September 5th – 19h30

Piano Recital by Emilio Villacis

* Place: Casa de la Musica Admission fee: $5 Thursday, September 6th – 19h30

“Eugrafías” Dance and Music * Place: Casa de la Música Admission fee: $5 Sunday, September 9th – 18h00

“Strings and Rhythm Machines Concert” by Gilberto Gil

Wednesday, September 19th – 19h30

* Place: Casa de la Música Admission fee: $5 Wednesday, September 12th – 19h30

Singing Recital Gabriela Chiriboga, vocals Daniel Brown, piano * Place: Casa de la Música Admission fee: $5 Thursday, September 13th – 20h00

Maria Tejada and Ronald Regnier New album release * Place: Casa de la Música Admission fee: $10

Folk Music Series * Place: Casa de la Música Admission fee: $5 Sunday, September 23rd – 17h00

Concert in Tribute to the Master Gerardo Guevara * Place: Casa de la Música Free admission Wednesday, September 26th – 19h30

Piano, Viola and Horn Recital by Alarcon trio * Place: Casa de la Música Admission fee: $5

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CULTURE + ENTERTAINMENT - QUITO Tuesday, September 27th – 20h00

Mantra Music Concert by Mirabai Ceiba * Place: Casa de la Música Admission fee: $25 Thursday, September 27th – 19h30

Popular Singing Recital Gabriela Gomez, vocals * Place: Casa de la Música Admission fee: $5 Friday, September 28th – 20h00

National Symphony Orchestra Contemporary Music * Place: Casa de la Música

Fantasy- Encounters Rosario Burbano - Carlos Castillo Two Ecuadorian painters with a wide and recognized career * Place: Aso. Humboldt Free admission

THEATER Tuesday, September 4th until Saturday, September 8th – 19h30

EXHIBITS Open until Sunday, September 9th Monday thru Sunday – 9h00 to 17h30

“Light Intuition” Painting exhibit by Jaime Garces Molineros * Place: Centro Cultural Itchimbía Free admission Open until Monday, September 17th Thursday thru Saturday 09h00 until 17h30 Sunday - 10h00 until 13h00

Mexico Amongst Us 76 black and white images from the National Photographic Library collection of the INAH and the National Autonomous University of Mexico * Place: Centro Cultural Metropolitano Free admission 78

Tuesday, September 11th until Saturday, September 29th Monday thru Friday – 10h00 to 18h00 Saturday – 10h00 to 14h00

Admission fee: $8, Students $6, Children and seniors $4 Thursday, September 13th and Friday, September 14th – 19h30

“Music for Wigs” This play is divided into four separate but complementary scenes, each one of them represents a particular micro-universe includes dance, music, theater, circus elements, scenic and audiovisuals. * Place: Teatro Variedades Ernesto Albán Admission fee: $9 Sunday, September 16th – 18h00

“Oriental Antigone - Uruguay”

“Sudaka, 5th Latin American Theatre Festival” * Place: Teatro Variedades Ernesto Albán Admission fee: $6 Wednesday, September 5th and Thursday, September 6th – 18h00

“Father Mother Infernal Train” Heckmanns's work generates questions that must be answered by looking at what we have done and from that generate a more conscious future. * Place: Aso. Humboldt Free admission

With traces of the classical tragedy and testimonial theater, this work shows the Greek myth about Sophocles treated by one of the conflicts of Uruguayan society. * Place: Teatro Nacional Sucre Admission fee: $10

* ADDRESSES: Thursday, September 13th until Saturday, September 22nd Thursdays thru Saturdays at 20h00

“The Revolt of the Idiots” Inspired by the myth of fallen angels by Rafael Albert. Eros and Thanatos can’t find peace on Earth; they are destined for eternal disgrace in this tragicomedy. * Place: Aso. Humboldt

• Casa de la Música: Valderrama s/n & Av. Mariana de Jesús (Hosp. Metropolitano) P: (+593 2) 226 1965 • Fundación Teatro Nacional Sucre: Manabí N8-131 between Guayaquil & Flores. P: (+593-2) 295-1661. • Centro Cultural Itchimbía: Calle Iquique and José María Aguirre. • Centro Cultural Metropolitano: García Moreno & Espejo, Historic Center • Aso. Humboldt: Vancouver E5-54 & Polonia. P: (+593 2) 223 6910 / 254 8480 • Teatro Variedades Ernesto Albán: Manabí Oe2-04 between Guayaquil & Flores. Plaza del Teatro P: (+593 2) 295 1661 / 2570 299

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PREMIUM SERVICES - QUITO

Visit the

ART WORKSHOP of the author of THIS IS ECUADORâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s covers and get a first hand view of her work!

Whymper 777 y 6 de Diciembre (593 2) 323 8648 / (593 9) 872 5346 caro_vallejo@hotmail.com 79

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* Allways will pick you up in your hotel..!

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PREMIUM HOTELS - QUITO

Stubel Suites & Cafe is strategically located in Quito, just a few minutes from the historical down town area, as from the shopping and bank areas. We offer a homely, modern and relaxing experience to the guests that visit us either for business or pleasure. We offer an ambience of relaxation for all your most important senses from the vision, with the best view of the oriental valley, to your palate with our delicious menu of national and international cuisine in the Cafe Stubel. We invite you to enjoy our facilities and the warm service of our staff. Pasaje Stubel Nro. 1 y León Larrea Tel.: (593) 2 601 3499 • Fax : (593) 2 601 3514 E-mail: reservas@stubel-suites.com • www.stubel-suites.com

Now offering FREE best-in-class Wireless Internet!

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Diego de Almagro 822 & Luis Cordero | Quito - Ecuador | Tel: (593-2) 2222 400 E-mail: reservaciones@hotelsebastian.com | Webpage: www.hotelsebastian.com 81

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B.I.D. Diamond Award - London 2011

A colonial treasure preserved for you... Venezuela 1041 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Quito, Ecuador Tel: (593-2) 228 9120 / 228 5917 Fax: (593-2) 226 5764 E-mail: info@hotelrelicariodelcarmen.com www.hotelrelicariodelcarmen.com

PREMIUM HOTELS - QUITO

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PREMIUM HOTELS - QUITO

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IN DON PORFIRIO EVERY DETAIL HAS A SCENT OF TRADITION

lunch & dinner * private parking Orellana 1172 & Av. Amazonas Reservations: 297 2000 Ext. 6178

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RESTAURANTS - QUITO

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RESTAURANTS - QUITO

Traditional food

The best steaks in town! Portugal 440 & Francisco Casanova Reservations: 333 1943 / 333 1944 E-mail: santelmorestaurante@gmail.com www.santelmorestaurant.com

The greatest national cuisine with live music... The best Ecuadorian experience!!!

Juan Rodríguez 282 y Reina Victoria, Sector la Mariscal (Plaza Foch) Telfs.: (593) 2501 743 • 510 4066 cel.: 093 388 489 Quito - Ecuador

OPEN Monday - Sunday: 12h00 a 22h00

CC. Megamaxi Local 106-110 Av. 6 de Diciembre y Calle Alemán Cel: 09-8362-159 Fax: 2923-958 Tels: 2241-210 / 213 / 214 / 319

Sector La Floresta Calle Julio Zaldumbide N24-763 Tels: 2220-318 / 2220-408

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FOOD & DRINKS - QUITO

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FOOD & DRINKS - QUITO

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CENTRAL ANDES

photograph: PETE OXFORD courtesy of HACIENDA YANAHURCO

QUILINDAÑA VOLCANO - YANAHURCO

The Avenue of the Volcanoes South of Quito, the two parallel chains of the Andes that cross Ecuador from north to south rise to their most dramatic peaks. During his visit to South America in 1802, the German explorer Alexander von Humboldt (XIX C) called this section of the Ecuadorian Sierra “The Avenue of the Volcanoes”. Eight of Ecuador’s ten highest summits are found in this part of the country.

COTOPAXI PROVINCE On a clear day, from Quito you can see the perfectly symmetrical cone shaped Cotopaxi (19,347 ft), the highest active volcano in the world. This snow-capped volcano and its sur96

roundings make up the Cotopaxi National Park. This park offers numerous activities for adventurers and nature lovers, all immersed in an imposing geological landscape. Although Cotopaxi has had at least ten major eruptions since 1742, it’s been fairly quit since its last burst of activity in 1904. Today, it is Ecuador’s favorite climb. Some of the highlights in this National Park are: the Rumiñahui volcano (15,600 ft.), and the Limpiopungo and Santo Domingo lagoons. In both lagoons it is possible to see the reflection of the surrounding volcanoes. The Cotopaxi National Park is home to white-tailed deer, rabbits, lamas, Andean foxes and pumas, and over ninety species of birds.

Cozy hostels and beautiful traditional haciendas in the region offer comfortable lodging and numerous activities such as horseback riding, biking, trekking, and visits to typical country villages, nearby rose plantations and local markets. The Saquisili weekly market (close to Latacunga) is the one of the most exhilarating in the region. Every Thursday hundreds of indigenous people fill the streets to sell their colorful handicrafts as well as their fresh crops and livestock. Further south, taking a right from the city of Latacunga, riding through an extraordinary view of dense patchwork fields, the imposing Quilotoa crater strikes the visitors’ eye with its extraordinary turquoise water. The hike from the border of the crater (11,840 ft) to the lake at the bottom

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CENTRAL ANDES

3 4

6 7

8 9

LEGENDS

Gas station Sightseeing Airport Archaeology Handicrafts Typical food Thermal Springs Capital of Province Cities / towns Pan- American Highway Secondary road

17 18

TOURIST SITES . LODGING

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9

Los Illinizas Cuello de Luna Hotel Cotopaxi National Park Cotopaxi Volcano Hacienda San Agustín de Callo Saquisilí Indigenous Market Quilotoa lake Pujilí Indigenous Market Centro Artesanal Rumipamba de las Rosas

10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19

Luna Rutun Adventure Spa Tungurahua Volcano Samari Spa Resort Chimborazo Volcano Hostería Andaluza Sangay National Park Sangay Volcano Alausí Train Station Hostería La Quinta Devil’s Nose

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(7,446 ft) is approximately 30 minutes; we recommend that you hire a mule on the way back. The nearby Zumbahua town has a very interesting Saturday morning market. Close to the town of Pujilí is the village of Tigua, where many artisans are devoted to the naive art painted on sheep hides, depicting daily life scenes, legends and village fiestas against a bright background of colored mountains and fields. These naive paintings can be found for sale mostly all around the country, and are locally known as Tigua paintings.

TUNGURAHUA PROVINCE The town of Baños is probably the most charming tourist destination in this province. It is located at the foot of the Tungurahua active volcano (16,500 ft). The town of Baños is a favorite spot for national and international tourists. Its pleasant sub tropical climate and its extraordinary landscape and vegetation are very welcoming. Baños is considered the gate to the Ecuadorian Amazonia, as it is nestled between the volcano and the rain forest. The city has plenty of tourist information, and several agencies offer adventure sports. For years, Baños has been the place where Ecuadorians make pilgrimages to honor “Our Lady of the Holy Water”. The walls of the Basilica are covered with paintings depicting miracles that are credited to this Virgin.

Moreover, the summit of Chimborazo is the furthest point from the center of the Earth, as it is crossed by the Equatorial line, where the Earth is wider. Chimborazo is the “Colossus” of the mountains of the region, but on a clear day, other impressive snowcapped mountains can be admired: the Altar, the Carihuairazo, and the Sangay volcanoes.

The town has several hostels for young adventure tourists, but the best accommodations are offered by Samari SPA Resort and Luna Runtun Adventure SPA.

Chimborazo province has the largest concentration of indigenous people in Ecuador. These communities worshiped the Chimborazo as a god. Many of them still preserve their way of life, dress, food, and traditions.

CHIMBORAZO PROVINCE Chimborazo is the highest Ecuadorian peak (20.702 feet), and the third highest in America. 98

Riobamba is the capital city of the province. From here, it is possible to arrange trips to the surrounding mountains. In the city, one encounters indigenous people sharing with mestizos and a minority of white

population. The Religious Art Museum “Madres Conceptas” and the Science Museum of the Maldonado School are definitely worth visiting. The history of Riobamba is marked by the fact that it is the link between the Coast and the Highlands. Riobamba's importance in the last few centuries was highly due to the presence of the train station, the main means of communication in Ecuador at the time. Today, the train is no longer an important means of transportation, but is a unique tourist attraction. From the Riobamba station, the train departs to the most impressive track of the railway through the “Avenue of the Volcanoes”, which ends up at the “Nariz del Diablo” (Devil’s Nose).

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COMMUNITYBASED TOURISM

Inti Sisa Guesthouse “…after travelling around Ecuador for six weeks, my wife and I agreed that Guamote and the Inti Sisa gave us the most unique and "authentic" look into the daily lives of indigeneous Ecuadorians. All this for a very reasonably priced accomodation option. Go for the market but stay longer for what the travel guides can't convey to their readers on paper– the feeling of discovery when there are so few other tourists around.” “simple but clean place, very good value!” “Inti Sisa is an excellent guesthouse, simple clean and comfortable. However it is so much more than this. The proceeds from the guesthouse are used to fund the Inti Sisa project which has been set up for educational purposes.” (taken from tripadvisor) INTI SISA is a nonprofit foundation that organizes workshops in Guamote, a small Andean village at 3056 m asl, centrally situated on the Andes Avenue in the province of Chimborazo. INTI SISA was born out of a living and working experience with the indigenous population who found their secondary education too theoretic and wanted to learn more practical skills. INTI SISA was created with the objective to create opportunities offering high quality training at a low cost. INTI SISA works nonstop with volunteers from Belgium and the Netherlands (volunteers from other countries are welcome too!). INTI SISA joins the local development plan of Guamote that consists of seven strategic areas, amongst them education and tourism. The workshops are given by local teachers, charismatic people who put heart and soul into their job. Following the demand of the local population, INTI SISA has organized the following workshops: computer, sewing and embroidery- fashion and design, Kindergarten, game hall, homework guidance, pedagogic materials, and indigenous music. In order to be largely SELF-SUSTAINABLE, INTI SISA chose the following solution: Do something unique and avoid the already flattened tourist paths! The doors of the INTI SISA guesthouse opened in June 2004. The guesthouse has 8 rooms with private bathroom, a dormitory for 8 people, a local kitchen and a fireplace. They offer hiking trails and horseback riding. Nearby tourist attractions include the train to the “Devil’s Nose” and the Guamote indigenous market.

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PREMIUM SERVICES - CENTRAL ANDES

2905-939

Ecuador a click away

• hotel reservations • domestic e-tickets • premium services • articles • maps

www.thisisecuador.com 100

Feel at home in one of the most charming towns of Ecuador. Eloy Alfaro 121 y Paraguay • Tel: (593 3) 293 0247 E-mail: info@hosteria-la-quinta.com • Alausí - Ecuador www.hosteria-la-quinta.com

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SOUTHERN ANDES

PHOTOGRAPH: FRANCISCO CAIZAPANTA - FPTE COURTESY OF MINISTRY OF TOURISM

ALAUSI

The southern sierra is made up of Cañar, Loja and Azuay Provinces. Some of the reasons for visiting these three provinces are the Incan ruins of Ingapirca, the valley of Vilcabamba and the historic district of Cuenca. The Southern Sierra of Ecuador is a favorite spot for birdwatchers, especially the Cajas and Podocarpus National Parks.

CAÑAR PROVINCE Cañar is rich in history. This region was inhabited by the Cañari culture from which it took its name. Cañar boasts the most important prehispanic monument of the country, the Ingapirca Inca Vestiges. Located about an hour and 45 minutes from Cuenca, these ruins are the most 102

important architectural legacy of the Incas in Ecuador. Ingapirca means “Incas stone wall”. The vast archeological complex includes a roofless fortification, courtyards, terraces, temples, houses and a “castle,” possibly the “Temple to the Sun.” The entrance fee is 5 dollars. A museum is now open at the site, with both archeological and ethnographic displays as well as a scale model of the ruins. Entrance fee is US$6. An excellent option is to stay overnight at the charming Posada Ingapirca (see page 63).

the city in 1548 at the “Cuxibamba” valley. “Cuxibamba” is the indigenous name of the valley.

Phone: (07) 2827-401/ (07) 2831-120.

Surrounded by rivers that flow to the Amazonia or the Pacific Ocean, one finds several green valleys with warm, fresh and dry weather (64 degrees Fahrenheit and higher), such as the Vilcabamba, Malacatos, Quinara and Catacocha Valleys.

LOJA PROVINCE Both the province and its capital city owe their name to the Spaniard Alonso de Mercadillo, who founded

Loja’s indigenous population maintains ancestral traditions and customs. The city of Loja has an important cultural community. Musicians, poets and other writers are nestled within the city. Loja had a large affluence of scientists during the XVII – XIX century, and so it appears in old European maps as “Nambixa”.

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SOUTHERN ANDES

LEGENDS

Gas station Sightseeing Airport Archaeology Handicrafts Typical food

TOURIST SITES . LODGING

Thermal Springs Capital of Province Cities / towns Pan- American Highway Secondary road

1 2 3 4 5 6 7

Sangay National Park Ingapirca Ruins Posada Ingapirca El Cajas National Park HosterĂa Uzhupud El Cisne Sanctuary Podocarpus National Park 103

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CUENCA

PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF VICTOR LARCO ALDAZ

A Cultural Treasure in the Andes Ecuadorians consider Cuenca the most charming city, located in a peaceful and relaxing setting. As you enter the city you can enjoy the outstanding skyline marked by shining church domes. Cuenca’s cobblestone streets, winding rivers, graceful ironwork balconies, and beautiful gardens are part of the pleasant atmosphere of this historical city. UNESCO declared Cuenca a World Cultural Heritage Site in December 1999. The city was first called “Guapondelig”, which in the Cañari language means “a plain as big as

the sky”. The Cañaris were the indigenous group that lived in the region before the arrival of the Incas. In the last decades of the XV century, the Incas built the city of “Tumipamba” (“Tumi” meaning ridge and “pamba” meaning plain), over this Cañari settlement. This city was located along the Inca highway that joined Cusco with Quito. When the Spanish arrived, they called the city “Tomebamba”. Finally, it was baptized as the city of “Santa Ana de los Cuatro Ríos de Cuenca” (Santa Ana of the Four Rivers of Cuenca). Cuenca stands 8,315 feet above sea level, it is the capital of the Azuay province and the third largest city in Ecuador.

perched along the banks of the four different rivers that run through and around the city (Tarqui, Yanucay, Tomebamba and Machángara).

The colonial past from the days of the Spanish Empire are ever present in the artistry of the churches, convents and religious treasures. Many of the beautiful houses are found

A leading industry in Cuenca and its surrounding areas is the manufacture of straw hats. A common misconception among many people is the Panama hat. Originally made in

One of the highlights are the beautiful handicrafts that can be found throughout the city, including embroidered blouses, wool sweaters, gold and silver filigree jewelry and weavings with tie-dyed patterns called ikat. Cuenca is also known for its elegant ceramic dishes and pottery. Crafts and fresh products can be found on sale at the weekly Thursday fair, or the smaller Saturday market, located at the plazas of 9 de Octubre and 10 de Agosto.

105

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PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF VICTOR LARCO ALDAZ

Hermano Miguel streets. Visiting hours: Monday - Friday: 9h0013h00 and 14h30 – 18h00. Saturday 10h00-12h00.

LAS CONCEPTAS MUSEUM Here you will find a great collection of religious art. It exhibits 64 paintings, and more than 200 sculptures, toys, furniture and other samples of craftsmanship. Address: 633 Hermano Miguel St. Visiting hours: Monday to Friday: 9h00 -13h00 and 14h30- 18h30 Saturday 10h00-13h00. Admission fee: US$ 2.

MODERN ART MUSEUM Montecristi, on the coast of Ecuador, the hats were sent north to the workers of the Panama Canal and hence the name Panama hat.

INTERESTING SITES EL BARRANCO The riverfront of the Tomebamba River is the most symbolic site of Cuenca, and serves as the border between the historical and the modern city. The Classical Republican style of the facades of the constructions that surround the river give a special personality to the city. El Barranco is a residential area, as well as a cultural district. The Pumapungo Ruins, the Central Bank and Remigio Crespo Toral Museums, the “Todos los Santos” vestiges, and other sites along this riverfront offer cultural and artistic exhibits.

PUMAPUNGO VESTIGES

106

Located at the left margin of El Barranco, the Pumapungo (“Puma’s Door”) neighborhood was the first developed zone of the Inca city of Tumipamba. The architectural elements of the vestiges of this neighborhood show that it was mainly a religious, military, political and administrative center. The vestiges of Pumapungo include walls, channels, cobblestone corridors, isolated

enclosed areas, an enormous channel, 1,050 feet of length, with some internal bathrooms, a mausoleum within a tunnel, etc. All this is surrounded by terraces that were used for agriculture. This archaeological complex is complemented with gardens of native plants and a small display of birds of the region. It is part of the Central Bank Museum, located on Huayna Capac Ave. across from Calle Larga. It also includes an archeological museum, a numismatic museum (coins), and a very didactical and up-to-date ethnographic display. Visiting hours Monday thru Friday 9h00 -17h00. Saturdays 9h00 -13h00. Entrance fee is $3 for adults and $1.50 for children / students / special groups.

THE RUINS OF TODOS LOS SANTOS Follow the Todos Los Santos Street down the hill. This site has ruins of Cañari, Incan and colonial Spanish constructions. Here you will find the four Incas stonework niches.

CIDAP ARTES POPULARES DE AMERICA MUSEUM This museum is devoted to the handicrafts of South America. It contains art, crafts and beautiful folklore pieces on temporary exhibitions. Address: 3 de Noviembre and

Holding a permanent collection of contemporary art, there are also many artistic activities available for children. The museum additionally hosts the Biannual International Painting Competition. It is located on 1527 Calle Sucre and Coronel Talbot. Visiting hours: Mondays thru Fridays, 9h00 - 13h00 and 15h00 – 19h30. Saturdays and Sundays 9h00 - 13h00. Free admission. Phone: 283 1027 / 282 0838.

ESQUELETOLOGÍA MUSEUM Bolívar 6-57 & Borrero streets. Visiting hours: Monday-Friday: 10h00 -13h00 / 16h00-19h00. Saturday 10h00 - 14h30. Entrance fee is $1,50. Phone: 2821150.

NATIVE CULTURES MUSEUM This museum was built as a homage to the Ecuadorian indigenous cultures and their 15,000 years of existence. It holds archaeological pieces from the first indigenous civilizations in Ecuador up to those that lived in the XVI century, in more than 5,000 impressive pieces. The museum works in a one-floor antique house that is a culturalarchitectonic heritage of the city, built in the XVIII century. In the back of the house one finds this museum, with a private collection that belongs to Dr. Juan Cordero. There are guides in English, as well as the explanation of the pieces.

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Address: Calle Larga 5-24 (7121 & Luis Cordero) / Phone: 283 9181/ 2841540. Open Monday- Friday 8h30-18h00, weekends from 9h0015h00. Admission fee: $2.

EDUARDO VEGA’S WORKSHOP AND GALLERY On the hill of Turi, overlooking the city, 10 minutes by car from downtown Cuenca, is a beautiful place where the reknowned Ecuadorian artist Eduardo Vega has his house, workshop and gallery. Visitors can admire his latest creations in artistic ceramics, ranging from mugs, plaques, jewelry, and plates as well as wonderful murals that show the lushness of the Ecuadorian landscape & traditional costumes. You can also find good books and complimentary coffee and biscuits. Open: Mon-Fri 9h00 -17h30, Sat 9h30- 13h30.

LA ESQUINA DE LAS ARTES

Is a commercial and cultural center for the promotion of the arts. Distinguished designers, artists and artisans have gathered to reveal the different processes involved in the creation of their products, which include ceramics, wood crafts, textiles, glass, embroidery, jewelry straw hats and fashion accessories. Open Monday thru Saturday from 10h00 thru 19h30, Sunday from 10h00 to 14h00. Address: El Barranco / Av. 12 de Abril y Agustin Cueva. Phone: 099978966. On Saturdays from 17h00 to 18h00 enjoy live music and folkloric dance. www.laesquinadelasartes.com

THE SAGRARIO CHURCH (OLD CATHEDRAL)

that belong to the original construction. Priests’ garmets are on exhibit. What calls more the attention are life-size sculptures of Jesus and his 12 apostles, which were manufactured in the year 1900 by the Cuencan artist Pablo Luis Alvarado. The pieces are light weight because they were used for processions. The pulpit’s handrail is worth admiring because it has the shape of human ribs to symbolize Jesus’ passion. It was done by the Cuencan sculpturer Sangurima (XIX C). What also calls one’s attention is the “Piedad”, a copy of the original by Miguel Angel in Rome, done by the Cuencan sculpturer José Miguel Vélez in the XIX C.

It is one of the oldest churches in Latin America (1557). Inca blocks from the Pomango Palace were used in its construction. It has marble floors and a gold-leaf altar. The Geodesic Mission used this place as a reference point to calculate the Earth’s circumference.

The organ from the back was brought from Germany in 1739.

It does not serve as a Cathedral since 1981, and now houses a religious museum. You can ask for a guide at the entrance for an explanation of the details. You can observe part of the original frescos, as well as some metal friezes brought from France

CATHEDRAL OF THE IMMACULATE CONCEPTION (NEW CATHEDRAL)

Open Monday thru Friday from 9h00 to 13h00 and from 13h30 to 17h50. Weekends from 10h00 to 13h00. Admission fee: $2 Address: corner of Mariscal Sucre & Luis Cordero. Phone: 2834636.

This Cathedral’s construction began in 1880, and is one of the largest of America. The Cathedral is made of 107

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alabaster and marble. Its floor is made of pink marble imported from Carrara, Italy. Both Romance and Baroque styles are prominent in its architecture. The stained-glass windows stand out for their beauty. Address: corner of Mariscal Sucre & Benigno Malo.

CHURCH AND MONASTERY OF “EL CARMEN DE ASUNCIÓN” Both have been preserved in their original XVII century condition. A remarkable treasury of religious art pieces can be found here. The Monastery is closed to the public, but one can communicate with the nuns at the entrance and buy traditional handicrafts they produce. It is located near the main square, to the right of the daily flower market.

FLOWER MARKET It is open every day. Most of the vendors are cholas cuencanas. The market is a demonstration of the natural richness of the area throughout the year.

TODOS LOS SANTOS CHURCH This is one of the oldest churches in Cuenca. It is also where the first Catholic mass was celebrated after the Spaniards arrived. The statue of Santa Ana, patron saint of the city, is found here.

for the “unfaithful of the New World”. The Christ sculptures belong to the sculpturer Sangurima, who lived in Cuenca at the end of the XIX century. They have the left over the right foot, characteristic of this author’s Christ figures. Also in exhibit is a room that tells of life in a monastery, close to where a cloister still works. Address: Hermano Miguel 633 & Juan Jaramillo. Museum open Monday thru Friday from 9h00 - 18h30 and Saturdays from 10h00 - 13h00. Admission fee: $2.50 adults, $1.50 children. Phone: 2830625.

HANDICRAFTS ROUTE POTTERY A place where potters still congregate to work is the “Convención del 45”, located at the west side of the city, on the outskirts of the colonial cask area.

WEAVINGS Several artisans in Cuenca are dedicated to manufacturing traditional clothing such as ponchos, skirts, flannels, dresses, embroidered blouses, wool sweaters and weavings with tie-dyed patterns called “ikat”.

BASKET SEWING Baskets and other utilitarian products are displayed mainly in the San Joaquin Parish.

SMITHY The workers keep the tradition of working the iron directly with fire alive. The smithy neighborhood is a recommended place to visit.

TINSMITH’S On the way up to the “Vado” area some tinsmith’s workshops can be found. The products have designs that tell of the blend of cultures that characterizes Cuenca.

TOQUILLA STRAW HATS JEWELRY A very important handicraft in this area because Cuenca is located close to gold and silver mines. Jewelry shops are located along the “Gran Colombia” street.

Most of the “cholas cuencanas” that live in Cuenca and its surroundings still wear these hats with a black hatband. Toquilla straw hat workshops can be found on the way up to the “Vado” area.

COJITAMBO

During the end of the XIX century, it was replaced with the church that currently stands. Address: corner of Calle Larga and Bajada de Todos Los Santos.

MUSEUM OF THE CONCEPTAS The museum is located in a monastery that dates back to the XVI century. It was one of the fist monasteries that were founded in the city of Cuenca, 42 years after the foundation of the city. Its interior gardens are beautiful and peaceful. Currently, the museum holds several exhibit rooms where one finds Nativity scenes, religious pieces and colonial time furniture. Many of the paintings had didactical purposes 108

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CUENCA’S SURROUNDINGS

NABÓN

Beyond Cuenca and its cultural and architectonic charms, there are many places to visit nearby. Wonderful nature as well as small towns and parishes that seem stuck in time, reminding us of their early inhabitants: the Cañaris and later the Incas.

CAJAS NATIONAL PARK Cajas is located 19 miles northwest of Cuenca, at an altitude of 9,000 to 13,000 feet above the sea level. This is a place for those who love the great outdoors. Some of the many things to do and see are camping, fishing, hiking miles of trails through a scenic preserve, and enjoying more than 230 lagoons of glacial origin. A guided tour of the area allows one to admire a breathtaking landscape and unique fauna and flora. Warm clothing is recommended due to the low temperatures (32°F - 47°F).

COJITAMBO Approximately 30 miles from the city of Cuenca, surrounded by an extraordinary landscape, are the ruins of Cojitambo. These constructions belonged to the Cañari indigenous group, who lived in the area before the arrival of the Incas. The ruins lay at approximately 10,000 feet above sea level.

BAÑOS Only 5 miles East of Cuenca, you can find soothing hot spring waters. These thermal waters of volcanic origin reach the surface with a temperature of 158°F and cool down to 95°F -104°F.

GUALACEO This is a subtropical valley, approximately 22 miles away from Cuenca towards the Azogues town. At “El Descanso” take a right to reach Gualaceo. This town is known for its handicrafts, folklore and a beautiful river where you can go for a swim.

CHORDELEG Located 10 minutes from Gualaceo, it is a pre-Incan town where important archaeological objects can be found. This brilliant culture inhabited the area between the years 500 and 1500 BC. The artisans offer Ikat ponchos, pottery, straw hats and jewelry. This is the place to buy the finest gold and silver filigree at a very reasonable price. There is also an excellent ethnographic museum in the square in an old courtyard house, where you can see weavers at work and find good shawls, scarves, belts and embroidery for sale.

NABÓN This little town is located an hour and a half south of Cuenca in a charming valley. Colorful fields welcome visitors to a place where people are always polite and joyful. The Duma-Para Cañari Ruins are located closeby. This was the place where the Cañari Chief Duma was defeated by the Incas, who then susequently ruled the land.

At Nabón one also finds the traditional Ecuadorian Tequila or Chahuarmishqui, a very tasty alcoholic drink that is produced in an artisan way by locals. Another attraction at this site are fine handicrafts made of reed.

OÑA Oña is located 103 km south west of Cuenca, 7,870 ft above sea level. May is a special month at this site as the San Felipe Festival takes place on the 3rd and the celebration of the town’s establishment takes place on the 10th. One of Oña's highlights is the parish of Susudel where people are mostly dedicated to agriculture and handicrafts. There is a gallery where skillful ladies exhibit clothes and other handicrafts made of recycled materials and natural textiles. Susudel has a XVIII Century church, as well as a colonial house that serves as a Cultural Center where children learn information science and have access to the Internet. It’s called the “House of Paris,” after its last owner who was French. 109

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MUSEUMS 1. Modern Art 2. Casa de la Cultura 3. CIDAP Artes Populares 4. Remigio Crespo Toral 5. Medicine History 6. Toquilla Straw Museum-Homero Ortega 7. Esqueletologia 8. Las Conceptas 9. Central Bank 10. Native Cultures 11. Agustin Landivar Museum 12. Folklore Institute 13. Cañari Identity Museum

Esquina de las Artes Shopping

OTHERS

53. Post Office 54. Land Terminal 55. Airport 56. Milenium Plaza Shopping Center 57. Mall del Rio 58. 9 de Octubre Movie Theater 59. Parroquia Baños 60. Esquina de las Artes Shopping

61. And E. Vega Gallery 62. Cuenca Municipality 63. Azuay Province Government 64. Tourism Ministry 65. Planetarium 66. Amaru Zoo

CHURCHES 14. New Cathedral 15. Old Cathedral 16. San Alfonso 17. La Merced 18. Las Conceptas 19. Todos los Santos 20. El Vergel 21. San Blas 22. Santo Domingo 23. San Francisco 24. Santo Cenáculo 25. San Sebastián 26. Corazón de Jesús 27. María Auxiliadora 28. Turi

VESTIGES 29. The Ruins of Todos los Santos 30. Pumapungo Vestiges

HANDICRAFTS 31. Casa de la Mujer 32. Plaza Rotary 33. Mama Kinua Cultural Center 34. San Francisco 35. Plaza del Otorongo 36. Ceramics 37. Concuero (Leather Goods) 38. Homero Ortega (Toquilla Straw Hats) 39. Typical Clothing 40. Smithery 60. Esquina de las Artes Shopping

PARKS 41. Abdón Calderón 42. Plazoleta Victor J. Cuesta 43. Carlos Cueva Park 44. Luis Cordero Park 45. Mary Corile Park 46. San Blas Park 47. Plazoleta de las Monjas 48. María Auxiliadora Park 49. San Sebastián Park 50. Plazoleta de Cruz del Vado 51. El Paraíso Park 52. Parque de la Madre

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HOTELS

FOOD & DRINKS

71. Carvallo 72. Posada del Angel 73. Inca Real 74. Hosteria Durán

67. Oro Verde 68. Crespo 69. San Juan 70. Victoria

75. Akelarre 76. El Pedregal Azteca Restaurant 77. Villa Rosa Restaurant 78. El Tucuman 79. El Jardín Restaurant 80. Restaurante Cuatro Ríos

TOURISM INFORMATION 81. The Travel Center

77 72

80 76

58 63

75 39

71 41 62 47

42 33 79

66 60 81

45 70

52 44 65

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Phone: (593 -7) 409 0000 Fax: (593-7) 409 0001 www.oroverdehotels.com / www.oroverdecuenca.com

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PREMIUM HOTELS - CUENCA

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Calle Larga 693 y Borrero Phone: 2831120/2827401 Fax: 2832340 e-mail: santaana@etapaonline.net.ec / www.grupo-santaana.com Cuenca Ecuador

Padre Aguirre 10-44 next to the Cuenca Park Phone: 07 2850521 // Cel: 099496281

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RESTAURANTS & PREMIUM SERVICES - CUENCA

Direcciòn: Di iò Estèvez de Toral 8-91 y Simon Bolivar Telèfono: 2826233 E-mail: mangiarebenne@hotmail.com

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LOJA

PHOTO BY ESTEBAN YEROVI

History and Botanic Center There are two daily flights from Quito to Loja, overlooking the avenue of the volcanoes. One can also take a bus from the city of Cuenca for a 4hour drive with a breathtaking view, but through a winding road. The airport is located at “La Toma” in the Catamayo valley, 15.5 miles away from the city; an approximately 40 minute drive. You can share a taxi to the city that will charge $12. The buses arrive in the center of the city. The city of Loja stands 6,724 feet above sea level, with an average temperature of 60 to 69 Fahrenheit. 116

Colorful and lively, with a small population of approximately 150,000 the city has an active cultural life and several universities.

large portion of the year, but also has a gothic church dedicated to her, 43 miles from the city.

Two rivers cross through Loja: Malacatos and Zamora, which give a unique personality to the city. It is one of the cleanest and safest cities in Ecuador. The city has streets, plazas, churches and monasteries from colonial times, such as the Cathedral and the Santo Domingo, San Francisco and San Sebastian churches.

ATTRACTIONS IN LOJA

Most Lojanos are extremely religious. It is common to find religious processions at the Main Plaza, or sometimes even popular bands and fireworks. Lojanos are especially devoted to the “Virgen del Cisne” (Virgin of the Swan), a sculpture by the Ecuadorian Diego de Robles (XVI C), which is kept at the Cathedral for a

MAIN SQUARE The buildings of the main civil and ecclesiastic authorities: the Provincial and City Governments, the Episcopal House and the Cathedral surround the plaza. Although the original architecture of most of these buildings has been modified, they still portray a taste of the Spanish legacy. The building that houses the Central Bank Museum still preserves its original architecture.

CENTRAL BANK MUSEUM This museum is most interesting. It holds an archeological display

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(mainly of the Macara and Catamayo cultures), religious art of the XVIII century, an ethnographic exhibit on the Saraguros, and a small display on the history and uses of the “quinina” plant. The museum also houses temporary exhibits on the first floor, and there is a concert every month. Open Monday thru Friday from 9h00 thru 17h00. Free admission. Phone: 2573 004 / 2566 651.

LOURDES STREET A stroll through this street sets you in an old colonial city, especially between Bolivar and Sucre streets. Observe the well preserved wooden balconies, interior patios, cobblestone streets… and stop by at the small shops where you can find a little of everything, including handicrafts. Visit the “Cera” neighborhood to observe the production of ceramic handicrafts.

MUSEO DE LA MÚSICA Located at Bernardo Valdivieso 0942 y Rocafuerte. This museum displays musical instruments, notes, pictures and awards of nationally famous musicians from Loja. Open

Monday thru Sunday from 8h30 to 12h30 and from 15h00 to 19h00. Free admission. Phone: 2561342.

BOTANICAL GARDEN At the South of the city you can find a Botanical Garden that is the only botanical garden at 6,560 feet above sea level in the inter-Andean region. It is over 50 years old and holds more than 1.000 plant species. Open Monday thru Friday 8h0018h00 and Saturdays 9h00 - 18h00.

MALACATOS VALLEY Right to the south of the city, the charming Malacatos town holds colorful wooden houses that surround a main square where live music is played every Sunday. At this site you can visit a sugar cane “molienda”. The “moliendas” are open Monday thru Friday and you can observe the workers throughout the whole process of manufacturing of raspadura (sugar scraping), using the same machinery that has been used for generations. On the way to Vilcabamba, observe a hill in the shape of a “sleeping Inca”. This hill is called Mandango,

and is believed to have been sacred for the Incas.

VILCABAMBA VALLEY This charming valley (at 4,921 ft.) located approximately 1 hour South from Loja city (25 miles) has become a favorite spot for tourists, especially young adventurers on their way to or from Peru. The name Vilka Bamba or Huilcopamba means “Sacred Valley” in the indigenous tongue Quechua. This site was reserved by the Incas for the main noble authorities, as it is a peaceful and quiet place. Perhaps this tranquility is the reason for the old age of the valley’s inhabitants. It is common to find healthy people of over 100 years of age that live here and still work in agriculture. Many investigations have been made to determine the reason for the longevity of Vilcabamba’s inhabitants, and some factors have been identified: temperate weather, a water rich in minerals, a diet low in fat and high in fiber and magnesium, the peacefulness of the valley and extensive physical activity.

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People that suffer from heart disease move to Vilcabamba to imitate the lifestyle of its inhabitants. From Vilcabamba you can arrange horse and bicycle excursions throughout the valley or in the nearby access to the Podocarpus National Park. The Municipality has opened an information office at the corner of the main park.

PODOCARPUS NATIONAL PARK This National Park is located 11 miles South of Loja city. The park was named after a tree species commonly known as “Romerillo” (Podocarpus montanus). This is a

gigantic Coniferous that has adapted to the tropical Andean forests. These trees can reach a height of 131 ft. and live up to 1.000 years. The Podocarpus or Romerillos is in danger of extinction because of the over exploitation of its valuable wood. Now the trees can be found at the Sabanilla region near Loja and at the Podocarpus National Park. Podocarpus NP holds 3,000 – 4,000 plant species and more than 600 bird species (including Macaws, Cock of the Rock, hummingbirds, toucans, tangaras, etc). It holds endemic bird species such as the Jocotoco Antpitta (Grallaria ridgelyi).The park has an area of 361,452 acres, and has sever-

HISTORICAL AND CULTURAL ROUTE OF LOJA CITY

Artesanías Handicraft

Monumento Monument

Iglesia Church

Museo Museum

Información Information

Teléfono Telephone

Información turística Tourist information

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1 2 3 4 5 6

Puerta de la Ciudad. Parque Simón Bolívar - The Simón Bolivar Park. Iglesia de San Francisco - San Francisco's Church. Museo Matilde Hidalgo de Procel - Matilde Hidalgo de Procel museum. Plaza Central o Plaza Mayor de Loja - The Central Square or The largest square of Loja. Iglesia Catedral - Cathedral Church.

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al different ecosystems that range from the Paramo or moorlands at 12,073 ft, down to the low mountain forest at 2,952 ft, passing through the evergreen high-mountain and mountain forests. Among the plant species are: bromeliads, orchids and ferns, as well as the Mascarilla Chincho-na, the Cecropias or Guarumos (Cecropia sp.), and bamboo (Chusquea sp.) From “El Refugio” it is possible to follow any of the four following trekking routes: “Spectacled Bear” 437 yards, “Cloud Forest” 765 yards, “View Point” 1 mile or 3 miles, up to Sabanilla at 11,482 ft., and “Compadres Lagoon” 9 miles where you can find a fluvial system

made up of 105 lagoons, 3 of which are easily accessible. From the Podocarpus NP heading towards the Zamora province, you will encounter impressive hill formations, created through a process of wind and water erosion. Open every day. The entrance fee to the park is $10 and $5 for children under 12. It is better to hire a guide in Loja, since there is no information offered at the park’s entrances. Phone: 3024837.

TAPICHALACA RESERVE A special site for birdwatchers has been built in the Tapichalaca

Reserve that belongs to the Jocotoco Foundation. Tapichalaca has an area of 9,386 acres. It borders the Podocarpus National Park and is located right nexto to the Loja-Zamora Province border. It is named after the Tapichalaca hill. Jocotoco is the common name of a bird species (Grallaria ridgelyi) that was recently discovered (1997) at this site. This bird spends more time “walking” on the bushes than flying, and makes a sound similar to a dog bark. There are bird feeders surrounding the house at the entrance to the reserve, where an amazing diversity of hummingbirds of all colors and sizes welcome visitors.

7 Museo Arqueológico, Histórico y Colonial del Banco Central - The Archaeological, Historical and Colonial Museum of the Central Bank. 8 Museo de Arte Religioso de las Madres Concepcionistas - The Religious art museum of the “Madres Conceptas”. 9 Museo de la Música - Museum of Music. 10 Plaza e Iglesia de Santo Domingo - Santo Domingo Church and Square 11 Plaza de la Independencia o San Sebastián - The Independence Square or San Sebastián Square 12 Iglesia de San Sebastián - San Sebastian Church. 13 Calle Lourdes - Lourdes Street.

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At first glance, the rain forest is a vast green wilderness. However, when one observes carefully, this ecosystem is full of surprises for its visitors. Not only is each tree very different from the next, but also for every tree, there are hundreds of other plant and animal species in constant interaction. Tropical rain forests occupy 7% of the Earthâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s surface, but they hold 50% of the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s biodiversity (Myers 1988; Wilson 1988). These forests are found in Central America, Africa and Asia, but the biggest area extends throughout the South American Amazon. To truly take advantage of the rain forest, one must awaken all five senses to discover how exotic life forms have evolved to live together in a minimal amount of land. The embracing sounds tell of the various birds and insects that keep this living forest in constant change. One must carefully observe the many other animal and plant species, as they have amazing color and texture adaptations that can be easily confused with the scenery. The various smells tell of the chemicals that the plants have developed as a defense from herbivores, and many serve in medicinal use for humans. In contrast to what one may think, the soil of the rain forest is not fertile. The nutrients that supply this exu120

berant ecosystem are the product of a constant interaction between the living and dying organisms on the surface. Decomposition is vital to the dynamics of the forest. Thus, it is important to preserve this ecosystem in its entirety. The temperature in tropical rain forests is quite stable, with a variation between day and night. However, this ecosystem is far from being stable.

Rainfall is seasonal and results in major changes for the living organisms. Disturbances also add to the high dynamics of this ecosystem. Many hypotheses have been made to explain the impressively high diversity in tropical rain forests, and each provides an insight to better understand this complex ecosystem. The competition for resources has led organisms to adapt to unique niches,

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thus resulting in a number of specialized and interdependent organisms.

it is home to less than five percent of the country’s population.

The overwhelming complexity of the forest makes one wonder about the ancestral knowledge of the indigenous inhabitants. These cultures have passed their knowledge from generation to generation as a way to keep the secrets hidden in this magical site.

The Ecuadorian Amazon region is basically divided into Northern Oriente (Sucumbios, Napo and Orellana provinces) and Southern Oriente (Pastaza, Morona Santiago and Zamora Chinchipe provinces).

In Ecuador, the East of the Andes falls into this exuberant ecosystem. Locally the Amazonia is called Oriente, as it lies on the eastern side of the country. It occupies almost half of Ecuador’s territory, however,

The Ecuadorian rainforest is home to nine natural reserves, including the two largest mainland protected areas, Parque Nacional Yasuni and the Reserva Faunistica Cuyabeno. Opportunities to visit primary forests and to interact with local communi-

ties are offered by our sponsors. Contact them to immerse yourself in a splendor of life and discover a different way to look at the world!

CLIMATE: The climate is precisely the one you would expect form the rainforest – hot and humid, with plenty of rain. April to July are the wettest months, but you can expect cloudbursts most days throughout the year, especially during the early afternoon. Typical daytime temperatures fluctuate around 25ºC (77ºF), even though daily highs can reach over 32ºC (90ºF).

IMPORTANT TIPS AND RECOMMENDATIONS WHAT TO BRING: • CASUAL AND LIGHT LONG SLEEVE SHIRTS AND LONG PANTS (BECAUSE OF THE INSECTS AND THE BOUNTIFUL VEGETATION) • HIKING OR COMFORTABLE SHOES • BATHING SUIT • RUBBER BOOTS & RAIN PONCHO (ALTHOUGH MOST FACILITIES HAVE RUBBER BOOTS IN SEVERAL SIZES AND RAIN PONCHOS AVAILABLE FOR THEIR GUESTS) • SUNSCREEN LOTION • INSECT REPELLENT • A HAT • A BACKPACK • A FLASHLIGHT WITH EXTRA BATTERIES • BINOCULARS • CAMERA • WATERPROOF BAGS FOR YOUR BELONGINGS • CASH (BANKING FACILITIES ARE POOR IN THE ECUADORIAN ORIENTE) • EMERGENCY SUPPLIES: MOST LODGES OFFER FIRST-AID KITS, BUT YOU MIGHT WANT TO CARRY YOUR PERSONAL KIT. IF YOU ARE ALLERGIC TO INSECTS, DO NOT FORGET THE NECESSARY MEDICATIONS IN CASE YOU MIGHT FACE A CRISIS • ORIGINAL PASSPORT (REQUIRED AT SOME SPOTS AT THE ECUADORIAN AMAZONIA)

• VACCINATIONS AND MEDICINES: IT IS RECOMMENDED TO CONSULT YOUR PHYSICIAN TO GET THE MOST UPDATED INFORMATION AND ADVICE. FOR SOME SITES DEEP WITHIN THE RAINFOREST, YOU MIGHT BE REQUESTED A YELLOW-FEVER VACCINATION. YOU MAY ALSO WANT TO TAKE MALARIA PILLS; CONSULT YOUR DOCTOR. HOW TO GET THERE: FLIGHTS ARE OFFERED TO THE FOLLOWING CITIES: • COCA – CAPITAL OF THE ORELLANA PROVINCE – ROUNTRIP FLIGHT APROX. $120, SERVED BY THE LOCAL AIRLINE TAME. • LAGO AGRIO – CAPITAL OF SUCUMBIOS, THE NORTHERN-MOST PROVINCE OF THE ECUADORIAN AMAZONIA. THE CITY OF LAGO AGRIO IS NOW OFFICIALLY CALLED NUEVA LOJA. TAME OFFERS DAILY FLIGHTS FOR APROX. $120 ROUNDTRIP • MACAS- CAPITAL OF THE MORONA SANTIAGO PROVINCE. TWO LOCAL AIRLINES OFFER THIS SERVICE: TAME AND SAEREO- ROUNDTRIP APROX $140 * THE CITIES OF TENA AND PUYO CAN BE EASILY REACHED BY LAND (A 3 –6 HOURS DRIVE FROM QUITO).

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INITIATIVE YASUNI- ITT “A Big Idea From a Small Country” The Initiative Yasuní ITT is the insignia project of the Ecuadorian Government in regards to the environment. It aims to prevent the exploitation of an important oilfield in order to protect one of the richest areas in regards to biodiversity in the world, located in the Ecuadorian Amazonia: the Yasuní National Park, declared a world biosphere reserve by UNESCO. A sole hectare in this Park holds more species than the whole of North America! Moreover, properly conserving the Yasuní Park would also allow the Tagaeri and Taromenane peoples to remain in voluntary isolation. The Ishpingo-Tambococha- Tiputini oilfield holds a reserve of approximately 850 million crude barrels. The exploitation of this material would mean the emission of 407 million tons of carbon dioxide. President Correa presented at the United Nations Assembly, in September 2007, the proposal to keep the oil of the Yasuní-ITT field indefinitely in the ground, if the international community contributes with at least the 50% of the opportunity cost of oil extraction. For this purpose, a capital fund administered by the PNUD was created. The state is willing to assume the remaining share of the cost. The fund’s capital will be invested in renewable energy projects in Ecuador, taking advantage of the country’s vast hydroelectric, geothermal, wind and solar potential. It will also be invested to promote social development in the Initiative’s zones of influence, including health, education, training, technical assistance and productive job creation in sustainable activities, such as ecotourism, agriculture and agro-forestry. The voluntary contributions could come from: governments of partner countries and international multilateral organizations, civil society organizations, socially and environmentally responsible private sector companies, and contributions from citizens worldwide. For more information visit www.yasuni-itt.gob.ec YOU CAN ALSO CONTRIBUTE! You can make your donations at: www.yasunisupport.org 122

Gaspar de Villarroel 1100 & 6 de Diciembre Edificio Ritz Plaza Esquina Phone: (593-2) 336-0887 / 336-0888 / 336-0889 Fax: (593) 2-336-0774 email: info@advantagecuador.com www.manateeamazonexplorer.com

FOR SA

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ECUADOR BY TRAIN NARIZ DEL DIABLO (DEVIL’S NOSE)

The Railway to Discover Ecuador The construction of the Ecuadorian railroad began in the late XIX century, and by 1908 the stretch Quito- Guayaquil was completed. Nowadays some of the tracks have been refurbished and offer a unique way to discover Ecuador’s contrasting landscapes. We recommend that you visit the Eloy Alfaro train station in Chimbacalle (Quito). It includes a museum (open Mon-Sun 8h3016h00), and a cafeteria (open MonSun 7h00- 19h00). The train routes that are open at the moment are: Machachi Festivo (Festive Machachi) Quito- Machachi- Quito Itinerary: Thursday to Sunday and holidays/ Departure: 8h15 Dist: 40 km / Duration: 1h 45 min Excursion Standard - Roundtrip $ 15 Standard Plus- $20 Surrounded by gorgeous landscapes and diverse ecosystems, this train ride ends at the fertile valley of Machachi, where tourists can enjoy a variety of recreational activities in a number of haciendas and lodges.

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Páramo Infinito (Infinite Moor) Machachi- Boliche- Machachi Distance: 19 km/ Duration: 4 hours

Itinerary: Saturdays, Sundays and holidays / Departure: 10h45 Excursion standard- $10 Taking off from Machachi, this excursion enters the Cotopaxi National Park, crowned by the outstanding volcano with the same name. Camino al Boliche (On the way to Boliche) Quito- Boliche- Quito Distance: 59 km/ Duration: 8 hours Itinerary: Thursday to Sunday and holidays / Departure: 8h15 Excursion standard- $20 Standard plus- $25 This excursion includes the complete journey from Quito to Boliche (a combination of the two mentioned above). Nariz del Diablo (Devil’s Nose) Alausí- Sibambe- Alausí Itinerary: Tuesday to Sunday and holidays / Departures: 8h00 / 11h00 / 15h00 / Dist: 12 km / Duration: 1 h Excursion Standard - Roundtrip $ 25 Standard Plus- Roundtrip $35 This route through striking Andean landscapes includes a zig zag railroad that at the time of its construction was one of the most demanding engineering works. Although short, the ride is fascinating! Tren de la Libertad (Liberty Train) Ibarra- Salinas- Ibarra Itinerary: Wednesday to Sunday and holidays / Departures: 10h30

Dist: 30 km / Duration: 1 h 30 min Excursion Standard - Roundtrip $ 15 Express Travel (Autoferro Trip/ autoguidance) - Roundtrip $ 6.50 This fascinating journey crosses through a number of bridges and tunnels built by pickaxe and shovel through the mountains and hills. In only 30 km, one passes through a variety of contrasting landscapes, which are home to different cultures. Sendero de los Arrozales (Ricefields Journey) Durán- Yaguachi- Durán Itinerary: Thursday to Sunday and holidays / Departures: 9h00 / 13h15 Dist: 22 km / Duration: 3 h 45 min Excursion Standard - Roundtrip $ 10 Express Travel (autoguidance) Roundtrip $ 3.50 This is the only route that operates in the Coast. Tourists are able to appreciate the local agricultural production, as well as a variety of bird species. The passengers are received by a dance and music presentation by the “montubios”, traditional inhabitants of the region. TICKET POINTS Quito: El Quinde Store / Venezuela & Espejo/ P: 2288696 Guayaquil: Malecón & Calle Aguirre You can also make reservations and book tickets at: www.ecuadorbytrain.com phone: 1-800- TRENES (873637)

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SEPTEMBER 2012

THIS IS ECUADOR

THE MOST COMPLETE GUIDE OF ECUADOR SINCE 1968

www.thisisecuador.com

SEPTEMBER 2012

No 506

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