This is Ecuador August 2010 by One for One

AUGUST 2010

THIS IS ECUADOR

AUGUST 2010

No 481

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www.thisisecuador.com

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CONTENTS

Welcome to Ecuador A Birder’s Paradise Land Distances Road Map General Travel Information Handmade in Ecuador Gourmet Ecuador Native Cultures Map National Protected Areas Map Thermals & Spas

3 5 6 7 8 10 13 16 17 18 19 22

Galapagos General information Map This Month in Galapagos Premium Services

23 25 29 30

Costa General information Guayaquil Map Culture & Entertainment Premium Hotels Restaurants Ruta del Sol (Sun’s Route) Map Whale-watching season Premium Hotels & Services

34 36 42 44 45 48 50 51 53 54

Andes General information Premium Haciendas Northern Andes Map Premium Services This Month’s Recommended

56 57 60 61 63 64

Quito Celebrating Freedom: Bicentenary of the Quito Culture & Entertainment Recommended Books Restaurants Map Premium Hotels La Mariscal District: Premium Hotels Shopping Food Premium Services Central Andes Map Premium Services Southern Andes Map Cuenca Restaurants Premium Services Map Premium Hotels Cuenca’s surroundings Loja Map Premium Hotels

66 76 78 79 80 82 85 88 90 91 92 94 95 97 98 99 100 104 105 106 108 110 111 112 115

Amazonía General information 116 Important tips and recomendations 117 Initiative Yasuni- ITT 118 Premium Lodging 118 Adventure in the Amazon 120 Embassies & Consulates List 122

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AUGUST 2010

PUBLISHED MONTHLY BY GUSTAVO VALLEJO P. Director CAROLINA VALLEJO Cover CRISTINA VALLEJO Editor CAMILA VENEGAS Sales Director info@thisisecuador.com (593 9) 9813 7553 BELEN MENA Design SOLUCIONES GRAFICAS D&G Layout IMPRENTA MARISCAL Printing

This is Ecuador is protected by law as intellectual property. Registration No. 9, page 3422; February 25, 1969. Total or partial reproduction as well as the use of photographs must be authorized by Gustavo Vallejo Pérez.

Quito: Whymper 777 y 6 de Diciembre Phone: (593 2) 290-8200 / 255-2177 Guayaquil: Padre Aguirre 104 y Malecón Ed. Fortín 4to. Piso Phone: (593 9) 858-4053 info@thisisecuador.com www.exploringecuador.com www.thisisecuador.com 2

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This month’s cover Illustration inspired in the Amazonia’s flora. Ecuador embraces four worlds: Galapagos, Coast, Andes and Amazonia. Occupying only 0.17% of the Earth’s land surface, Ecuador holds 10% of the world’s vascular plant species. Indeed, the country has the largest biodiversity in the world in regards to its area. For more information about the Ecuadorian Amazonia, see pages 116- 121.

Editor’s Note This is Ecuador is a complimentary guide. It should not be sold by any means. All of the tourist sites that appear on this magazine have been visited by our editors. Moreover, our commercial staff has previously evaluated the tourist services that appear on our publication. If any of these services does not meet your expectations, please let us know. Read our entire guide at www.thisisecuador.com. You can learn about our wonderful country and book premium services through our e-guide. Comments/suggestions: info@thisisecuador.com Phone number in Quito: (593 2) 290- 8200 We appreciate your opinion.

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Ecuador has the biggest biodiversity per area in the world! In a study by Conservation International, Ecuador ranked among the 17 “mega diverse” countries, alongside the United States, China, Australia, Brazil and Mexico. With 9.2 species per km2, it occupies the first place in the world with regards to species per area. The richness of Ecuador lies in its DIVERSITY, both natural and cultural. Ecuador has 4 diverse and unique regions: the Amazon Rain forest, the highland Andes, the Coast, and the Galapagos Archipelago. These four regions are subdivided into provinces. Besides its exuberant biodiversity, Ecuador is home to an impressive variety of ethnic groups, including communities who still practice ancient cultural traditions (for more information see page 16).

LOCATION: Ecuador is one of the smallest countries in America. It lies on both the Northern and the Southern Hemispheres and is divided by the Equator, thus the name of the country. It borders Colombia (North), Peru (South and East), and the Pacific Ocean (West).

AREA: about 270.670 km2 or 168.186 square miles.

DISTANCE FROM NORTH TO SOUTH: 1.081 km or 672 miles. POPULATION: approximately 13 million.

LANGUAGE: The first language is Spanish, however, most of the indigenous population speaks Quichua. There are 18 different languages among native communities.

PROVINCES: - Galapagos - Coast: Esmeraldas, Manabi, Los Rios, Guayas, Santa Elena, El Oro. - Andes: Carchi, Imbabura, Pichincha, Santo Domingo de los Tsáchilas, Cotopaxi, Tungurahua, Bolivar, Chimborazo, Cañar, Azuay and Loja. - Amazonia: Sucumbios, Napo, Orellana, Pastaza, Morona Santiago and Zamora Chinchipe.

RELIGION: 95% Catholics CURRENCY: American Dollar. The Ecuadorian government has also produced a series of local coins that have the same value as the U.S. coins (which are also accepted). Banks open from 9h00 to 17h00 and on Saturdays only half day. Money exchange is offered every day in main hotels.

GOVERNMENT:

Democratic. Current President is Economist Rafael Correa Delgado.

CLIMATE: The climate throughout the country ranges from tropical equatorial rain in the Amazon to perpetual snow on the top of the mountains. Cities in the highlands have temperatures that vary from 50ºF to 70ºF, while coastal cities’ temperatures vary from 60ºF to 80ºF during the day. The weather in the jungle is constant: rainy, humid and warm. The Galapagos Islands are sunny and warm during the months of December-May; the temperature drops from June to November.

WHAT TO WEAR: • In Quito and the highlands the weather is very unpredictable. A common saying is that you can live the four seasons in one day: from intense sun to hail. One needs to look out the window before deciding what to wear each day. During June, July and August the weather is more sunny but windy. During the rest of the year you would need warmer clothing like those you would wear during the fall. A raincoat or jacket would be useful all year long, since at night it gets pretty chilly. • Guayaquil and other coastal cities: wear summer clothing all 3

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year round. During the rainy months, December to May, the weather is still very warm. During the months of June to November the weather is cloudy and a bit colder. Bring along a light jacket. • Galapagos: wear comfortable walking shoes and casual clothing. Shorts, t-shirts and summer clothing will be just fine. Don’t forget a hat, a camera, sun block, and a bathing suit. During the months of June to November the weather is cloudy and a bit colder. Bring along a light jacket. • Amazon or Jungle: wear clothing adequate for rain. If you can get yourself a raincoat (poncho), take it with you, as well as several sets of light pants and long sleeve shirts. Shorts are less useful because of the insects and abundant vegetation that you will walk through on your excursions. A hat, rubber boots and insect repellent are also a must. For pictures, you need high-speed film.

AIRPORT TAX: $28,27 for anyone leaving the country from Guayaquil, and $40,80 from Quito.

TOURIST VISA: Visitors can stay up to 90 days without a visa. TAXI RATES: Approximately $3 to $6 per ride from the airport to the city. These rates vary among the main cities.

TRANSPORTATION: Main cities (Guayaquil, Quito and Cuenca) have local airports serviced by the local airlines: Tame, Aerogal, Icaro and

Lan, besides international airlines. Bus lines offer Land transportation where you can just jump on the next bus leaving to your destination. Each city has its own terminal, with frequent departure to each one of the different provinces Ecuador. (For more information see page 8).

SUGGESTIONS FOR A PLEASANT STAY While the authorities are clearly making significant efforts, it’s necessary to take some precautions. We suggest some recommendations: • Don’t walk at night in badly lit areas. • Leave documentation and valuable things in your hotel room or in the safety deposit boxes. • Carry your backpack at the front. Especially if you are carrying a photo camera. • Whenever you sit on a coffee shop, restaurant, Internet, phone box or any open space, keep your things next to you. • Be aware if someone comes suspiciously too close to you. • Don’t allow any stranger to enter into your room. • It’s recommended not to visit any plaza too late at night. • If you travel on a bus, don’t receive any candy or papers from strangers. • When you are at the airport, pay special attention to your belongings. • Be careful any time you go to an ATM; it’s better if you go during the day.

• Don’t let strangers offer you accommodation. Consult a travel agency.

MOUNTAIN CLIMBING ASEGUIM is the association of mountain climbing guides of Ecuador. We recommend that if you plan to do mountain climbing at any level, you contact them to access professional and certified guides. They also offer rescue operations. Phone: (02) 222-2954, cel 099 822 363, www.aseguim.org

OFFICE OF TOURISM PUBLIC PROSECUTOR: The highest duty of the Ecuadorian Republic is to respect and support human and personal rights; they offer judicial safety to tourists who visit the country. It is cost free. Monday thru Friday from 8h00 to 12h00pm and from 14h00 to 18h00 Quito: 02 2905-053 Guayaquil: 04 2320-685 Cuenca: 07 2844-282 Galapagos, Santa Cruz Island: 05 2526-048 Loja: 07 2572-668 Puyo : 03 2883-767

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A BIRDER’S PARADISE No other country in the world has as many bird species in such a small land area. With a list of over 1630 species, Ecuador ranks fourth in the world in bird diversity. You don’t need to be an expert to experience the exhilaration of encountering such a variety of birds… Their amazing assortment of colors and intriguing habits are irresistible!

Fourteen species are found only within the boundaries of Ecuador. Such is the case of the Black-breasted Puffleg, the official bird of Quito, which is only found on Pichincha Volcano. Another 260 species are found only in Ecuador and its neighboring countries. Hummingbirds have an overpowering attraction to observers due to their iridescence and acrobatics. In the Andes, these birds are commonly known as “quindes” (from the indigenous Quichua word). More than 130 species live in Ecuador, including the stunning Sword-billed Hummingbird and the Fiery Topaz. An outstanding example of diversity is seen at hummingbird feeders on the west slope near Mindo where up to 28 species have been seen in one day, a world record! More than 100 sites of special importance of bird diversity have been identified in Ecuador. These sites are known as IBAs (Important Bird Areas), and are part of an international program designed to protect sites of exceptional importance for bird conservation. In Ecuador, this program is coordinated by Aves & Conservación, a partner of BirdLife International. The main criteria for the identification of these sites are the presence of endangered and / or endemic species and the presence of migratory and gregarious bird species.

distinct bird species in such close proximity. The Choco is best accessed from Quito and in a one-week trip you can see over 300 species. The main birding areas in the Choco are the Tandayapa Valley, Mindo Valley, Milpe Bird Reserve, Rio Silanche Bird Reserve and the Canande region of far Northwest Ecuador. The Amazon region also offers superb birding opportunities and excellent local guides. Contact our sponsors to experience the exhilaration of bird watching combined with excellent accommodations and service! Recommended reading: The Birds of Ecuador by Bob Ridgely and Paul Greenfield. For more information contact Aves & Conservación Corporation: 02 2249968 / 02 2271800 Info courtesy of: Aves & Conservación. Photos courtesy of: Mitch Lysinger.

Ecuador’s IBAs are found not only in national protected areas, but also in urban sites. More than 50% of Ecuador’s IBAs already have tourist facilities, and are growing in infrastructure. Moreover, Ecuador holds the world’s top two Endemic Bird Areas (EBAs), the Choco and Tumbesian, within a short distance from each other. Nowhere else in the world are such 5

122 219 499 437

292 416 486 304 414

138

418 321

6 Bahia

7 Baños

8 Cuenca

428 254

529 710 236

804 710 430 661 926 852 707 286 449

332 236 250 335 291 641 190 260 479 603 353 215 473 490 287 381 576

17 Macará

18 Macas

317 354 592 542 195 609 314 633

134 230 511 446 163 426 272 552 468 335 509 323 706

25 Orellana

26 Otavalo

468 131

155

254 319 153

640 800 329

452

941 937 499 731 581

314 616

427 465 470 448 237 140 418 515

463 523

636

328

612

689 782

284 381 661 596 314 576 418 702 613 395 659 473 856 130 340 909

683 586 311 537 616 731 515 265 519 919 456 566 300 840 637

42 Tulcán

43 Zamora

894 634 689 654

126 327

721 557 873 240 406 554 198

371 525 757 576

483 453

398 453 828

112 248 386 417 308 409

971

805 742 530 967

967

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533 626 208 353 519 491 294 462 243 833 434 79

439 411 482 462 248 191 434 540

165 243 561 286 294 112 189 239 698

209 330 441 499 253 491

332 646 590 530 415 253 286 482 262 729

186 224 268 496 314 415 519 100 416 491 640

230 316 674 304 656 395 981 768 705 817 576 861 652 961 453 640 828 698 540 971 626

314 379 213 113 487 525 530 353 297

517 236 329 449 213 224 209

499 140 459 475 489 431 249 562 270 220 587 767 206 215 619 554 415 549 246 174 246 525 428 536 435

41 Tena

381 246 203 768

508 675 647 449 617 399 988 590 208 565 435 394 961

436 205 220 187 237 477 240 180 268 287 465 255 154 684 902 430 106 406 211 639 241 381 415 231 371 120 209 656 297 100

207 180 418 368

40 Sto.Domingo

481

782 458 144 292 329 410 603 234 646 626 209 536 598 652

311 406 686 622 190 604 448 732

106 215 277 674

284 163 658 198 327 231 246 150 817 446 267 458 517 330 761 120

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219 689 420 219 199 236 372 510 457 332 533 120 428 506 861

278

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166 583 250 780 178 387 956 928 664

57 236

539 710 263 254 527 497 300 366 308 864 554 126 415 174 303 705

39 San Miguel

505 597 188 324 490 463 265 418 208 830 406

38 San Lorenzo -

121 339 809 541 339 319 357 493 475 577 240 654 241 549 626 981

547 445 379 233 670 405 465 359 197 602 150 356 401 704 488 656 549 523 546 348 232 696 577 830 864 658 120 457 234 988 525 314 499 561 411 813 -

902 767

790 485 171 300 362 408 605 232 557 634 211 554 631 656

288 385 665 601 318 581 427 706 617 400 664 477 860 135 344 913

527 362 556 357 265 300

151 281 546

37 Salinas

36 Rumichaca 1

763 771 845 337 659 721 556 391 830 696 873 689 639 415 825 395

200 210 191

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790 845 908 188 263 483

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884 661 589 675

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14 57

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150

35 Riobamba 268 280 421 240

477 356 250 520 287 249 473 566

34 Quito

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689 513 698 818 653

180 280 522 291 315 270 319 563 325

381 396 569 353 171 484 348 143 509 689 128 200 541 485 337 541 324 254 332 446 420 458 508

732 842 678

300 421 400 602 166 576 170 489 395 919

509 583 770 640 482 913 656 956 861 684 587 909

33 Quinindé

190 387 318 583 379 277 803 731 554

132 480

775 346 630 662 456 280 225

645 346 884

491 775

189 759 937 466 132 647 456 675 411 299 356

380 491 645 866 794 647 288 524 375

481 363

301 350 632 432 512 499 529 480 288 280

599 605 423 736 380 395 762 941 380

207 212 334 103 332 202 254 375 136 291 166 223 381 365 173 583 513 460 210 305 171 659 339 490 527 341 267 219 144 675 314

632 379 472 463 348 365 310 112 308 135 704 178 307 255 270 130 840

32 Quevedo

207 284 683

385 445 428 406 194 180 381 586

484 381 551 587 562 860 401 780 884 465 562 856 300

199 102 340 290 163 518

329 420 566 209 675 452 380 466 529 554 559 636 128 460 512 347 182 621 523 664 481 430 206 616 316

398 388 155 383 175 347 433 472 312 593 581 559 328 375 -

453 345 486 398 339 395 189 432 277 315 523 143 173 236

31 Puyo

227 117 272 470

387 175 842 353 166 354 390 240 664 150 583 687 268 431 659 456

467 564 844 780 348 759 606 889

150 288 547 331 311

396 136 325 373 280 617 197

314 356 407 224 439

30 Putumayo 62

759 518 202 270 307 470 581 405 439 604 187 499 576 731

565 599 335 556 190 383 732 569 291

429 544 704 899 736 706 350 583 433

576 800 218 583 631 852

670 453 346 218 420 481

152

507 439 704 500 398 924 852 675

178 381 610 346 597 467 924 834 762 759 512 803 593

580 748 287

565 658 495 899 346 339 834

216 782 961 490 152 670 494 699 500 346 380

812 529 424 544 699 486 467 631 209

364 385 347 131 556

343 439 348 163 332 315 106 272 318 670 361 190 220

807 228 575 609 426 364 107

29 Portoviejo

28 222 314 467 199 207 180

222 318 555 248 343 107 360 596

385 310 180

480 228 481 716

28 Pedernales

283 380 660 592 163 575 386 705

24 Nueva Loja

27 Playas

342 439 675

23 Muisne

637 469 500 480 163 195 163

461 392 157 371 180 351 429 494 345 597 583 566 363 380

541 445 320 544 500 807 399 331

347 385 411 228 469

313 139 405 346 291 383 198

603 291 582 371 812

729 513 244 191 473

576 686 191 961 748 178

22 Morona

21 Manta

368 313

513 413 194 200 637 455 365 160 238 582 176 320

379 346 133 508 686 215 198 320 351 424 439 495 423 323 301 318 347 678 171 223 369 204

362 313 330 316 133 513 216

20 Machala

625 529 253 479 747 673 528 207 455 861 398 508 244 782 580

19 Machachi

184 236 533 316 398 576 353 383 176 180 529 507 658 605 509

16 Loja

447

157 254 534 470 187 450 295 575 488 312 533 346 729 82

413 385 445 439 380 354 230 385 318 356 564 102 212 280 111

251 300 488 313 455 449 479 346 238 157

15 Latacunga

47 447 502 642 312 330 861

260 123 334 426 111 301 251 507 184

425

14 Ibarra

568 428 254 260 696 513 424 213 300 642 236 379

321 253 178 375

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189

501 255 291 191

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332 277 209

248 335 297

321 335 413 291 111 424 295

13 Huaquillas

20 513 347 541 342 283 317 134

123 260 470 253 479 661 335 313 200 228 544 444 592 542 446 180 428 224 780 290 103 291 327 177 601 233 644 622 205 368 596 537

406 501 334 696 187 178 747 926 291

12 Guaranda

458 468 248 283 255 426 513 450 375 673 852 641 313 455

11 Guayaquil

625 804 332

Travel through Ecuador with

260 613 209 260 254 534 321 253 430 250 368 194 411 320 675 660 592 511 310 555 407 844 340 334 522 391 227 665 379 708 686 436 418 661 311

271 371 613 382 406 283 413 654 425

321 338 371 277

414 225 540

272 540 468 321

368 260 130

10 271 332 189 568 157

437 304 237 272 130 382

280 237 225 458

www.budget-ec.com

10 Esmeraldas

418 212 231

9 Daule

231 499 486 280

5 Baeza

4 Babahoyo

280 212 219 416

377 418 122 292 138 418

377 280

3 Azogues

1 Aloag

2 Ambato

CITY

ECUADORIAN DISTANCES (KM)

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ROAD MAP

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GENERAL TRAVEL INFORMATION

299 3370 / 75

251-7622/23/24

284-5657

LOCAL AIRLINES 281-5250/281-0789

1-800 2376425 1-800 883-567

3905-060

281-1450

1800-101075 397-7100

1800-101075 1800-500800

1800-101075 286-6400

262-8918/262-8899

262-7363 1800-101075

INTERNATIONAL AIRLINES

227-3686 1800-101075

230-3211

284-2970

1800-101075

397-0370

259-8060

LAND TRANSPORTATION Quitumbe: Carcelén:

3988-261 3961-600 3988-248 2988-236/2557-133 398-8268 222-5315

214-0314

2835-717

227-1847 214-0638

282-3060 262-0963

2289-509 213-0265

398-8229

CAR RENTALS 330-0979 286-0174

Avis Rent a Car 225-4258/330-0783

USEFUL NUMBERS 286-7120

/ 258-2482 8

256-1628

283-2132

212-8138

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HANDMADE IN ECUADOR

Cotacachi: Quality Government, Quality Leather By Carolina Matheus, for Olga Fisch Folklore.

Who would have thought that a little city, in a small province of a developing nation, would have international recognition? This is the case of Cotacachi, in the province of Imbabura, Ecuador. Cotacachi is the proud winner of the Participative Democracy, Dubai 2000 prize, which is given to a city that has: “One of the most sound environmental, social 10

A FOCUS ON DIVERSITY AND EDUCATION

ethnic diversity and has therefore created an assembly in which black, Indian and mestizo, as well as urban and rural people, all participate as part of the local government. Perhaps the fact that he is one of the first Indigenous mayors in Ecuadorian history has given him a unique perspective. As a result, the Cotacachi people are becoming active citizens who are learning to take responsibility for what occurs in their city and region. This work hasn’t gone unnoticed and, consequently, the prizes mentioned above.

As you walk towards the Cultural Center, or through the main plaza, you will run into bustling Otavalo Indians; mestizos diligently working in their shops; and, occasionally, local black people selling products as well. The current mayor, Auki Tituaña, an Otavalo Indian, has realized the importance of Cotacachi’s

In a country in which presidents remain in power for an average of two years, it is exceptional that Mayor Auki Tituaña has been in office for ten years (democratically reelected). His persistence and the system’s continuity have allowed him and his assembly system to obtain improve-

and economic practices in its local government.” This isn’t the only prize it has received. In 2002, the Unesco honored it with the City of Peace prize for its dedication to dialogue and democracy. So, why does it have so much attention? As you are on your way to Otavalo, you must visit Cotacachi because of its cultural diversity, alluring vistas, its unique democratic government and, most of all, its beautiful leather crafts.

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ments for his people. For example, 37% of the budget goes towards environmental cleanup; 22%, towards education; and, 28%, towards social development. This is a one of kind financial plan, in a country in which the less than 6% of the budget goes towards education! These efforts have positive results, such as better public health and being the only illiteracyfree county in Ecuador, in 2005. Protecting the environment is also a priority in Cotacachi. One leather shop worker explains that in the last decade, they have been forced to use more environmentally friendly products for leather dying and they aren’t allowed to dump toxic waste into the rivers. He comments: “This is all for the best. We need to take care of our rivers for the future generations.” Cotacachi has the impressive Cotacachi-Cayapas Ecological Reserve, which protects a wide range of endangered species. In a country in which environmental degradation is rampant, the fact that local governments are emphasizing environmental protection is uncommon and admirable.

BEAUTIFUL LEATHER CRAFTS

the open air but without direct sunlight and it takes between 24-48 hours. At this point, grease or linseed oil is evenly applied, (previously, guarango oil, which is extracted from a type of acacia, was used). This is a key aspect in order to ensure durability and flexibility in the leather. Next, the leather is dyed in an infinite myriad of colors. Today, most of these dyes are of better quality and biodegradable. A key step occurs at this point: the leather is cut in very thin slivers. It must be done with a steady hand and with special machinery in order to ensure uniformity and a thin cut. If it’s too thick, the leather will be too rough, and if it’s uneven, it will have a very sloppy look. If the leather passes quality control, it is then ready to become a jacket, suitcase, purse, saddle, belt, wallet or any other garment conjured up by the designer’s imagination. A lacquer is applied to protect and give shine, and the garment is finally ready! It will make its way to the various shops on the 10 de Agosto Street in Cotacachi. There are some variants to the process. For example, some stretch the leather and then beat it in barrels in order to make sure it becomes very soft. However, the artisans and knowledgeable customers all agree: hand-selected and hand-cut pieces are incomparable to industrially assembled leather.

Not only are the Government and population quite exceptional, the fine leather crafts elaborated in Cotacachi are also outstanding. This is because the artisans take great care in the elaboration process, they renovate their designs, and they offer competitive prices.

A FAIR PRICE

Though other areas of Ecuador also specialize in leather goods, Cotacachi is unique because great skill is put in to the entire elaboration process. All Cotacachi artisans buy already tanned leather because this highly polluting process is not consistent with the mayor’s environmentally friendly philosophy. It requires a trained eye to buy good tanned leather. Once purchased, the leather must be carefully washed and softened. Drying the leather is the next step. This must be done in

Because the process is mostly handmade, as mentioned above, it is time consuming and, as a result, large volumes cannot be obtained. For example, the owner of one of the larger and fancier shops, explains that they produce an average of 100 to 150 garments a month. Therefore, their prices aren’t as cheap as industrial-made leather goods. However, some of his suede vests and jackets -which cost around $150- would easily go for $500 in Europe or the USA. Unfortunately, he explains, many tourists want to obtain high

quality garments for $30. He tells us: “This is impossible because of the care and time we put into our products!” In some other areas of Ecuador, leather products can be obtained at lower prices, yet the quality may be questionable. About fifteen years ago, most leather products in Cotacachi had little creative design. There was only one jacket style, purse style and wallet style …not so, today. The designers are constantly traveling to Quito to buy fashion magazines and surfing the Internet to see what’s in style. Another artisan explains: “The Internet has been a great help for us! Also, we test out different designs and see how consumers react. Ultimately, the costumer has the last word on our designs.” At some shops, you can have a jacket or saddle custom-made! This is a luxury that would be extravagantly priced in a developed country. “We have to evolve and renovate all the time, or we die!” says another storeowner, while proudly showing a cow-skin and leather purse, which could easily be found in pricey boutiques in New York or L.A.

HOW IT BEGAN Most entrepreneurs aren’t exactly clear on how the business developed, yet all seem to agree that saddle making was the basis. One artisan who has been working with leather since he was 13 explains: “Our grandparents and parents made leather saddles and reigns because horses were used to bring in the cattle and as a means of transportation. We made our own saddles for our personal use.” Little by little, people began to see that their goods were appreciated in other parts of Ecuador and the sales began. During World War II, change purses and belts were made and, in the 1960’s, leather jackets came in style. At one point, many Colombian tourists poured into northern Ecuador and were great clients. However, after the dolarization in 1999, Ecuador became too expensive, so they stopped coming. 11

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Today, most of the products are for local tourists and for shops in Quito and, to some extent, for foreign tourists. Legend has it that the Cotacachi Mountain was very flirtatious and, though she married the powerful Rucu (Old) Pichincha, she had an affair with the younger and more handsome Imbabura Mountain. In revenge, Rucu Pichincha stole their first-born son, Guagua Pichincha. Because of this, Cotacachi cries every day and thus produced the Cotacachi Lake from her bitter tears. It’s not surprising that Cotacachi has charmed so many lovers, for she is

very attractive and so is the city beneath her. Many people become captivated by Cotacachi’s cultural richness, striking scenery, its dedication for a better government and its lovely leather crafts. Be sure to pass by on your visit through Imbabura!

TIPS FOR BUYING A GOOD LEATHER PRODUCT: Though the quality largely depends on the raw material and the elaboration process of the leather itself, there are some telltale signs when buying. Also, remember there is a wide range of quality and prices in Cotacachi itself:

•Leather should be soft and flexible. •Leather should be thin, (unless it’s vaqueta, used for saddles, some briefcases and belts, which is thick and sturdy). •The finish must be good. Check the buttons and zippers: are they very cheap? Are they stitched on securely? •For a leather jacket: check if it is assembled by several pieces, like a ‘quilt’, or is it made of only a few pieces. In this case: “Less is more.” •You can bargain and haggle, but not too much. Remember all the labor that goes into the product. Bargaining too much is insulting.

Bibliography: Journal “Cotacachi 146 años: Multicultural, diversa, universal.” July 2007. Personal Interviews: August 2007 - Julio Morales. - Pedro Caiza. Photograph: Iván Ceballos.

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GOURMET ECUADOR

Quality Ecuadorian Chocolate: an Artisanal Delight! Ecuador’s diversity gives place to an array of flavors and scents, and chocolate is certainly not the exception! Traditionally, the country has been characterized for the production of the best “Cacao” (chocolate beans) in the world; years ago it was the first top economy income in the nation.

The weather, soil, temperature, and laborious hands of men and women from the tropical regions of Ecuador give way to an excellent Cacao that is appreciated worldwide. Did you know that some of Europe’s topquality brands are made with Ecuadorian cacao? Yes, they are! In fact, there is a legend that tells that at the beginning of the last century a Swiss who was traveling on a boat on the Guayas River saw another boat transporting cacao sailing down the river. He was amazed by the aroma and asked where the cacao came from. Local people answered “río arriba” (from up the river), and that is where the denomination Cacao Arriba began for one of the finest chocolate bean type. Today, Ecuador produces various kinds of fine chocolate. Some of the best are

now available at Galeria Ecuador Gourmet, a new place in the city dedicated to people who enjoy life’s pleasures, presenting 100% Ecuadorian quality artisanal products. Of course, Galeria Ecuador Gourmet had to have a space for fine chocolates: Gabianny: different kinds and flavors decorated with beautiful photos of the country, ideal for any special occasion because they can be personalized. Pacari: Premium organic chocolate, first ones made in Ecuador, the best ingredients are selected to assure you an unforgettable experience of flavor. They are very rich in antioxidants, made with “Cacao Arriba”. Pacari has a direct relationship with producers and carries out community development programs. 13

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tion with only fifty families. Kallari produces and sells gourmet organic fairly traded dark chocolate bars. Fino de Aroma: As it name suggests, it is elaborated with the finest kind of pure Ecuadorian chocolate. Different presentations are offered, such as in the shapes of PreColombian Ecuadorian art mythical animals and figures that were worshiped by our pre-Inca cultures. Also this chocolate is organic and supports the local producers’ families. Caoni: Elaborated with Cacao Arriba from different tropical areas in Ecuador, a very fine taste and aroma combined with tropical fruits flavours, 100% organic, natural and does not need some additives such as vanilla to change flavour because it is hand harvested and processed. Delight yourself with Ecuador’s finest chocolates at Galeria Ecuador Gourmet! This unique Galeria is strategically located in the midst of La Mariscal, the entertainment district of Quito. Visitors are invited to savor Ecuador’s most exquisite products… A journey through the finest tastes, smells and textures of this wonderfully diverse country!

Hoja Verde (Green Leaf): High quality chocolate 100% natural, the purest chocolate flavor made with Cacao Arriba, with worldwide recognition due to its delicate aroma’s combination of coffee, citric, cinnamon, blackberry, and flowers from the rainforest. Chocolateca: Over 30 years of experience has made Chocolateca a specialist in the art of making good chocolate, hard and soft. Their philosophy is to maintain a production process that guarantees a homemade taste. 14

Cacaoyere: It means “Cacao’s garden”. They developed their skills to get all standards required for exportation. Their main targets are United States, Germany, England and Chile. Keeping some ranges of concentration of pure cacao in their products such as: from Amazon 63%; Esmeraldas 71%; Bolívar 82%; Pichincha 91%. Kallari: 850 families from the Amazon jungle area (Napo river) produce intense flavor chocolates, and delicate fruit touches. It is a sustainable income for the Kichwa families who started this activity and associa-

Useful information: Address: Reina Victoria N24-263 & Lizardo Garcia Phone: 2239469 / 2258440 E-mail: info@galeriaecuador.com

www.galeriaecuador.com

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NATIVE CULTURES ECUADORâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S MOSAIC

America, erroneously called the "new" world, has a rich and ancient cultural tradition that is known as pre-Columbian. The conquering Spaniards saw the ethnic groups that still inhabit Ecuador today as "primitive". In fact many people have a hard time understanding Native American Culture. The XVI Spanish tried to eradicate indigenous beliefs and customs. Fortunately, many ethnic groups retain their traditional way of life and belief systems. In the colonial era, the Spaniards imposed Catholicism. To this day, many of the indigenous cultures have adopted this faith. However, they maintain their original language, dress and artistic expressions. Especially in the rain forest, many ethnic groups are still isolated and have little contact with Western culture, and to this day, they maintain a way of life similar to

the way their ancestors lived over 500 years ago. In Ecuador, when we speak of mega-diversity we speak not only of our magnificent biological world, but we also refer to the human factor. Our ethnic-diversity is rich, with characteristics depending on the natural environment of the Coast, the Highlands and the Rainforest.

THE CULTURES OF THE COAST The oldest known cultures of America lived on the Ecuadorian coast (8800 to 3500 B.C.). The cultures that subsist practically intact to this day are: the AwĂĄ, the Chachis or Cayapas and the Tsachilas or Colorados. They live in the tropical rainforest of the west Andes and possibly settled there escaping from the invasion of the Incas from Peru (XV C) or from the Spaniards (XVI C).

THE AMAZONIAN CULTURES Many archeologists maintain that some of the oldest cultures (over 10,000 years old) are actually from this tropical humid rainforest, impossible to reach for many centuries. In the "cosmology" of these indigenous groups, the human being is a part of the "Amazanga" (rainforest) and the human spirit wanders in this forest every dawn. The human spirit can enter an eagle or a serpent or a jaguar, each one with a symbolism as to their nature according to their beliefs. The rainforest provides their food, medicinal plants, and spiritual richness. To these people, the tropical rainforest is their home, their drugstore, their supermarket, and their church; thus, their utmost respect for their environment. They are, according to modern world economical standards, apparently very poor. However, they have a rich

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spiritual life and live in peace surrounded by their families, taking from nature only what they need for survival and taking time to meditate and enlighten themselves. To share a few days with them is an incredibly enriching experience.

THE HIGHLANDS The cultures of the highlands are by no means the oldest, but they are the most visited and well known, probably because of their geographical

location of easy access by roads and highways. Many communities that live in the highlands still maintain their cultural manifestations through dress, language (Quichua), and festivities. Just 62 miles north of Quito you can visit the Otavalo Indian Market, a must see for any tourist that comes to Ecuador. This market offers wonderful weavings, tapestry, rugs, bags, artwork and other products made by the indigenous community. These people are hardwork-

ing, skillful, and artistic. Families work together and then sell their work at the fair. Transactions take place quietly with bargaining on the side of the tourist. These are very proud people who have not lost their cultural identity despite the fact that mestizos and whites inhabit the city of Otavalo. The Otavaleños travel all around the world selling their goods.

NATIVE CULTURES’ DISTRIBUTION MAP

Sto. Domingo de los Tsáchilas

Sta. Elena

Awa Chachis Shuar Tsáchila Huancavilcas Épera Negro-afroecuatoriano Cofán

Secoya Siona Huaorani Ashuar Quichuas del oriente Mantas Záparo Quichuas de la sierra

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NATIONAL PROTECTED AREAS AMAZING + DIVERSE

EL ALTAR VOLCANO - SANGAY NATIONAL PARK

With its relatively small territory (109.483 square miles), 0.17% of the planet’s land surface, Ecuador was ranked among one of the 17 most biodiverse countries in the world. Ecuador holds more than 11% of all the land vertebrates in the world (mammals, birds, amphibians and reptiles), 16.087 vascular plant species and approximately 600 species of marine fish. And there is still a lot to learn about Ecuador’s diversity, especially about invertebrates and microoganims. Among the “mega diverse” countries, Ecuador holds the biggest biodiversity of land vertebrates per area.

WHAT IS THE REASON FOR ALL THIS DIVERSITY? First of all, the Andes mountain range divides the country from North to South; secondly, Ecuador’s geo18

photograph: MIGUEL DAVILA P.

graphical location in the Tropic of Cancer, the warmest region of the planet; and finally, the influence of two oceanographic phenomenons: “El Niño”, the current that comes from the North and is warm and humid, and the “Humboldt” current, which comes from the South and is cold and dry.

Archipelago and the Sangay National Park (Amazonian region).

1. MACHALILLA

On the following pages, you will find a brief description of Ecuador’s National Parks. You can locate these Parks on the map on the next page. As you may see on the map, besides these National Parks, Ecuador is home to another 21 National Protected Areas. The country also includes other important private protected areas and natural sites.

Located in the province of Manabí, Machalilla takes its name from one of the pre-Columbian cultures that inhabited this area. The Valdivia, Chorrera and Manteña Cultures also lived in this land of mild climate and extraordinary landscape. One can still visit archeological sites within the park. We recommend especially Agua Blanca and Salango. The park occupies 136,000 acres. Its yearly average temperature is 75ºF. The influence of the Humboldt Current in the Pacific conserves the amazing tropical humid and dry tropical forests.

Two of Ecuador’s National Parks were declared “World Heritage Natural Sites” by the UNESCO: the Galapagos

One of the main attractions of the park is "Isla de la Plata" (Silver Island). It was named at the end of

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PROTECTED AREAS COLOMBIA

PERU

1. Machalilla National Park 2. Sumaco Napo Galeras National Park 3.Yasuni National Park 4. Cotopaxi National Park 5. Llanganates National Park 6. Sangay National Park 7.Cajas National Park 8. Podocarpus National Park 9. Galapagos National Park

10. Limoncocha Biological Reserve 11. Galapagos Marine Reserve 12. Antisana Ecological Reserve 13. El Angel Ecological Reserve 14. Cayambe-Coca Ecological Reserve 15. Cayapas-Mataje Ecological Reserve 16. Cotacachi-Cayapas Ecological Reserve 17. Los Ilinizas Ecological Reserve 18. Mache Chindul Ecological Reserve

19. Manglares-Churute Ecological Reserve 20. Pululahua Geo-botanic Reserve 21. Cuyabeno Wildlife Reserve 22. Chimborazo Wildlife Reserve 23. Pasochoa Wildlife Refuge 24. El Boliche Recreational Park 25. Santa Clara Island Wildlife Refuge 26. El Condor Bi-national Park 27. Cofan-Bermejo Ecological Reserve 28. La Chiquita Wildlife Refuge 29. Rio Muisne Mangroves Wildlife Refuge 30. Corazon Island Wildlife Refuge 31. El Salado Mangroves Wildlife Reserve 32. Arenillas Ecological Reserve 33. Parque Lago Recreational Area

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culture are found close to this National Park. The area surrounding the Sumaco volcano was declared "Biosphere Reserve" by the UNESCO in the year 2000.

3. YASUNI

the XIVth century, when the pirate Francis Drake took treasures from Spanish ships and hid them on this site. "Plata" means silver, but it is also how Ecuadorians commonly refer to money. According to the legend, much of this treasure was never claimed and is still hidden here. The Island is surrounded by Coral Reefs, so the marine life is exciting and plentiful.

You will find some excellent scubadiving services here. The Island has two guided hiking routes, both with awesome sights. You will find a rare colony of bluefooted boobies, masked boobies, frigate birds and albatrosses, as well as interesting plant life. Guides are well versed on the subject. To visit the park, one must purchase a 5-day pass for a fee of 25 dollars. With this ticket you can visit all the sites of the National Park.

2. SUMACO-NAPO-GALERAS With a surface of 507,181 acres, this National Park houses a wide diversity of ecosystems, ranging from high mountains to cloud and lowland forests. The park’s altitudes range from 1,968 to 12,792 feet. The NapoGaleras mountain range has various rivers and springs running through its deep valleys. The Sumaco volcano (12,792 feet) stands isolated from the rest of the Andes and is surrounded by lowland forest. This National Park is rich in animal species, including spectacle bear, bats, marsupials, armadillos, guams, and many bird, reptile and amphibian species. The most common plants found are cedar, canelo, and rubber trees. Native Indian Quichua communities and the archeological sites of the Cosanga 20

Yasuni is located in the Napo Province. With an extension of 2,426,281 acres and is an important biogeographical area where endemic species of plants and animals have been preserved since the Pleistocene Period (20,000 BC). According to the "UNESCO", more than 700 plant species have been identified, together with 500 bird species and 200 different animals. The Napo River is the main access to the park. Recently, the Huaorani Indians who live here, together with environmentalists, have raised international awareness regarding the controversial petroleum exploration of this area.

4. COTOPAXI The Cotopaxi National Park was named after the highest active snowcapped volcano in the world (19,347 ft). It is located 37 miles from Quito. The Park includes 83,829 acres, and the altitude ranges from 11,152 ft to 19,347 ft above sea level. The Cotopaxi Volcano is one of the most important features of this park. It is the highest active volcano in the world. Adventurous professional mountain climbers are attracted to this site along with many tourists who take pride in attempting to reach the top. The volcano offers climbing experiences for all skill levels. The immense plain that surrounds the volcano offers a wonderful landscape with extraordinary geological conditions and numerous flora and fauna. This park is home to dears, pumas, condors, wild horses and llamas. The Limpiopungo lagoon, located close to the Rumiñahui volcano (15,492 ft), is a good place for camping. The Pucará Ruins are an Incaic fortress that should be visited too. At the foot of Cotopaxi you will also find an Inca Palace built by Tupac

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Yupanqui in the XVth century, turned into a monastery by the Catholic Augustinian Order in the XVIIth century. At this site you will enjoy an outstanding view of the volcanoes. Currently it houses a beautiful hacienda that offers excellent hotel facilities. Hotel Cuello de Luna (see page 97) offers exciting expeditions and excellent lodging in the area.

5. LLANGANATES This park is home to one of the most exotic and inaccessible regions in Ecuador. It includes rough moorlands, deep valleys, rivers, lagoons, and abundant waterfalls. Most of the park is covered by dense vegetation, and the weather is mostly cold and rainy. Cerro Hermoso (15,618 ft) is the highest mountain in the area. The most common animal species found are moorland rabbits, sacha (jungle) rabbit, and weasels. Another common species that are very difficult to spot are the spectacle bear, white-tailed deer, moorland deer, moorland fox, puma, deer, tapir, cock of-the-rock, and the condor. Throughout history, explorers and adventurers have been attracted to this area in search of the elusive gold of Atahualpa, which according to the legend is hidden in the Llanganates. Nobody has found the gold; however, all visitors bear witness to the region’s mysteries, and keep the legend alive…

ties to hike, trek, and climb. The Sangay Volcano is off limits because it is in permanent eruption, but you can get close enough to take spectacular photographs. Native indigenous communities live in this park: Quichua- Canelos in the north and Shuar in the south.

grasses, yagual (Polylepis), romerillo, chachacoma, genciana, romerillo and the sarar. The Park also has some archeological Inca sites in the area of Molleturo, which historians believe have been a ‘tambo’ (resting areas for the Inca couriers from Cuzco to Quito).

7. CAJAS

8. PODOCARPUS

This National Park is only 21 miles away from Cuenca. It ranges in altitude from 9,840 ft to 11,480 ft. Its 71,186-acre area includes mountains and 232 glacial lagoons, connected to each other by small rivers and streams. Two of the rivers surrounding Cuenca, the Tomebamba and the Yanuncay, begin in this area.

Podocarpus is located in both the Provinces of Loja and Zamora Chinchipe, with an extension of 351.436 acres. This park has two ecological zones, jungle and highland, both with great diversity of flora and fauna. Here you will find exotic orchids, bears, pumas, humming birds, toucans, woodpeckers and reptiles. It is the ideal place for botanical, ecological and zoological investigations. If you enjoy long walks, listening to the sounds of birds, running rivers, waterfalls and camping, then this is a place you shouldn’t miss.

Cajas is his home to mammals such as the white-tailed deer, spectacle bear, puma, paramo deer, paramo rabbit, and the Andean tapir. Some of the most important bird species found here are the caracara, the condor, the Andean toucan and spectacle duck. The most common vegetation includes: chuquiragua, paramo

6. SANGAY Sangay is located between three Provinces: Tungurahua, Chimborazo and Morona Santiago and has an extension of 671,654 acres. Take the Pan-American Highway to Riobamba. When reaching Alao you may ask for tourist information at the park’s administration center: about the correct paths for mountain climbing, horse rental, etc. There are three main mountains in this park: Sangay (17,154 ft.), Altar (17,446 ft.), and Tungurahua (16,452 ft.). These mountains offer excellent opportuni-

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THERMALS AND SPAS The use of water for therapeutic means dates back to antique tribes that lived in caverns. They observed how animals, when sick or injured, go to hot or mineral water springs to heal. On the XXth century, the social circumstances and the scientific discoveries led to a better understanding of the benefits of hydrotherapy. Today, the accelerated rhythm of modern civilizations, and the stress this brings about, awakened a special interest for thermal therapies. The need for relaxation and the boom of aesthetics have brought about the development of a new technique called SPA, which comes from the Latin "Salutem per aqua" (health through water). SPAs are places where aesthetic and relax treatments are carried out through the use of

water, usually enriched with additives. SPAs also offer a diversity of treatments with clay, aromatherapy, medicinal plants and massages. Ecuador, home to several active volcanoes, has extraordinary thermal waters that naturally sprout from hot springs, with high temperatures and rich in minerals. As an energetic center in the middle of the world, Ecuador has also become a special site for the development of modern and sophisticated SPAs. Luna Runtun- the Adventure Spalocated at the foot of the active Tungurahua volcano, offers an exfoliation treatment with the ashes of the volcano, and has an organic garden where the natural products for the different treatments are cultivated.

LA MIRAGE Garden Hotel & SPA

Phone: (593-6) 2915-237/561 Fax:(593-6)2915-065 e-mail: mirage1@mirage.com.ec www.larc1.com US Replarc ( 1800-327-3573) Cotacachi-Ecuador

They offer special hair treatments with avocado & aloe-vera. La Mirage Spa has created a unique ambiance for each of the therapies they offer. Every detail is carefully designed to contribute to the client’s comfort, relax and pleasure… in a most exclusive atmosphere. Additionaly, La Mirage offers a therapy that combines the ancestral knowledge of a native witchdoctor (Shaman) with modern SPA techniques. Both thermal waters and SPAs are a treat… an escape from stress of the busy world of today… an opportunity to indulge oneself and renovate both the body and the spirit.

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This Archipelago is a living museum of evolutionary changes. Free and fearless animals, different from any others found elsewhere, make visitors wonder about their very existence on our planet. In 1835, Charles Darwin sailed on the British ship H.M.S. Beagle and visited the islands. The living proof that he found in this unique volcanic archipelago inspired his theory of the origin of species, which shook up the scientific world. All those who choose to make this unforgettable trip can confirm his observations and studies. The UNESCO declared Galapagos a World Natural Heritage Site in 1978 and subsequently a World Biosphere Reserve in 1985.

FLORA AND FAUNA: Galapagos is home to an incredibly high rate of endemic species. Among the animals found are the different species of giant ‘Galapagos’ tortoises that gave the islands their name due to the similarity of their carapaces to a British riding saddle called ‘galapago’ in Spanish. Galapagos is home to a variety of birds: blue footed, red footed and masked boobies, flamingos, frigate

birds, albatrosses, unique small penguins and non-flying cormorants, and 14 different varieties of finches. These various finches served as proof for Darwin’s theory of evolution from natural selection. Marine mammals such as sea lions, dolphins and whales are also found; as well as multitudinous colorful fishes. The most distinctive plants are mangroves and endemic cacti.

ORIGIN: The islands appeared from lava eruptions that came from the bottom of the ocean and that rise as much as 2,600 ft. Lava from more than 2,000 craters has continuously altered the terrain of the region. Currently, the archipelago includes 13 large islands, 6 minor ones and more than 40 islets. Some of the younger islands still have active volcanoes.

WEATHER: December to May the weather is sunny and warm. During the months of June to November, it’s colder and drier.

LOCATION: 600 miles West off the coast.

NATIONAL PARK ENTRANCE FEE: $100 for international visitors/ Comunidad Andina or Mercosur $50

AIRFARE: There are two airports served by local airlines: on Baltra Island and on San Cristobal Island. The price of the roundtrip flight for foreigners for either destination is of $410.70 from Quito and $361.05 from Guayaquil.

TRANSIT CONTROL CARD (TCT): In order to have a better control of visitors and migration to the islands, INGALA, the Ecuadorian institution that controls migration to the islands, introduced a visitor control card. The control card has a cost of $10, which must be canceled at the INGALA counters located in the Quito and Guayaquil airports.

CRUISE SHIPS: A cruise is definitely the best way to visit many of the islands in a short period of time. Tours are a minimum of four days. There is a wide range of cruise offers, from small sailboats for about 18 passengers to big luxurious 23

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cruise ships for more than 100 passengers. Contact your travel agency for more information.

travel from the arid coastal area through different ecological zones as you ascend to the highlands and then come back to sea level.

LAND OPTIONS: Another way to visit the Galapagos is to stay in a hotel at one of the inhabited islands. You can travel from one island to the other by light aircraft or boat. The following towns offer facilities for tourists:

Puerto Ayora Santa Cruz Island HOW TO GET THERE: If you hire a cruise, or stay at the main hotels on the island, they will make all your travel arrangements. If you are traveling on your own, book your flight from Quito or Guayaquil with Tame or Aerogal. The airlines provide a bus to the Itabaca canal (10 minute ride). From there ferries take you across the canal to Santa Cruz Island for 80 cents. To continue to the town of Puerto Ayora you either take a bus ($1,80) or a taxi ($15) for a 45 minute drive. Along the way you will

The name Santa Cruz means Holy Cross. The first Spanish visitors gave this island a Christian name. This is the main port of entrance to the Archipelago and home to the majority of human inhabitants (aprox. 10,000). Puerto Ayora is the capital of the Island, with exciting places to visit, travel agencies that provide visits to the other Islands, visit to the highlands and the beaches, other special tours,etc. At Puerto Ayora you will also find excellent handicrafts, jewelry shops, art galleries, casual clothing, restaurants, bike rentals, kayaking, diving and snorkeling services (see our services guide) just taking a walk down the Charles Darwin Avenue.

CHARLES DARWIN FOUNDATION HEADQUARTERS: A visit to the Charles Darwin Foundation Headquarters is a must

for any visitor to Puerto Ayora. Here you will be able to discover the conservation efforts of the Charles Darwin Foundation and the Galapagos National Park, and see the giant tortoises (Elephantopus Geochelone) breeding center, as well as a small land iguana breeding center. You will learn about the breeding process of these animals in captivity, as well as other conservation efforts for these endangered species and varieties. During the summer months (January to April) we recommend that you take your visit early in the morning to avoid the heat and sun. Distances within the headquarters are short, so you can walk. On the route you will find Opuntia Cacti (Opuntia Echios Gigantean), endemic of the Galapagos. Be sure to look out for the tame finches and observe the variety of beaks that led CharlesDarwin to his theory of evolution by natural selection. These headquarters are open Monday thru Sunday from 6h00 to 18h00. During your visit, which will take approximately 2 hours, be sure to stop at the following pavilions: 1. Van Straelen Visitors Center: a didactic exhibition on origin, fragility, conservation, geology, climate, and other aspects related to the Galapagos. 2. Casona Exhibition Center: graphic exhibits of all the different varieties of giant tortoises, their different carapaces and the two extinct varieties that inhabited Fernandina, Floreana and Santa Fe Islands. 3. Giant Tortoise Breeding Center: on the right hand side of the Casona Exhibition is the center that houses smaill tortoises from every island until they are mature enought to survive with hardened carapaces. Once they reach a certain maturity, they are reinserted in their island of origin.

THE GALAPAGOS ISLANDS

1 2 3

4 5

PACIFIC OCEEAN

Royal Palm Hotel Finch Bay Eco Hotel Angermeyer Waterfront Inn Silberstein Hotel Solymar Hotel

1 2 3 4 5

THE GALAPAGOS WILDLIFE

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4. Tortoises’ corrals: at the corrals you can observe and compare the different shapes of the carapaces according to the varieties. It is interesting to note that “Diego” (Geochelone- Elephantopus hoodensis) from Española Island has a flat carapace that becomes long at the height of the neck. This tortoise was brought from the San Diego Zoo (thus the name) and was succesfully reunited with females from Española Island. Thus, this variety was saved from extinction. Unfortunately, this was not the case for “Lonesome George”, who is the last survivor of the Pinta Island variety, and has not been able to reproduce, regardless of the many efforts. Lonesome George now lives with two closely genetic related females from the Wolf Volcano (Isabela Island), but has not been able to reproduce succesfully. 5. Land Iguanas Corral: a few protected land iguanas can be found at these corrals. Introduced species such as dogs and cats endanger these iguanas. Two land iguana species are endemic to the Galapagos Islands, the Conolophus subcristatus (that is found at six of the islands), and the Conolophus Pellidus (found at Sante Fe Is.) Charles Darwin Foundation has a dedicated international staff that works together on research and long-term conservation programs. Visit their website at:

www.darwinfoundation.org TORTUGA BAY Tortuga Bay is a beautiful beach of fine white sand. From your hotel, for $1, take a taxi to where the path to this unique beach begins. A 2.5 km cobblestone path was built in order 26

to reach the paradisiacal beach of Tortuga Bay by foot. A mysterious forest of the tall Opuntia Cactus and volcanic rock surrounds the path, the view is overwhelming. Throughout your walk you will observe finches, yellow warblers, mockingbirds, lava lizards. Feel transported to the time when the adventurers and pirates of the XVIII and XIX century visited these enchanted islands. Once your reach Tortuga Bay, you walk into what seems an infinite and desolate beach of white sand. Every now and then you encounter marine iguanas on their way in or out of the water. There are other interesting sites to visit such as the lava tunnels, the twin craters, tortoises in their natural environment (all in the highlands), the grottos (crevasses with refreshing swimming water), or the Garrapatero beach. Be sure to ask you hotel about facilities to visit these sites.

NIGHT LIFE: Puerto Ayora is a quiet, safe, tourist friendly town. On Charles Darwin Avenue one can find almost everything; restaurants, bars, ceviches (typical food), fresh fish, drinks,s etc. Night life offers much to enjoy, and safely. You will find a wholesome and fun ambience shared by people from all around the world who either live at or are visiting Puerto Ayora.

Puerto Baquerizo Moreno San Cristobal Island This is the capital of the province, and has the second largest number of inhabitants in the archipelago. From 1836 to 1904, a large portion of the highlands of the island belonged to Hacienda El Progreso, with extensive sugar and coffee plantations owned by M.J. Cobos. Cobos made an empire of his hacienda (it even had its own currency). You can

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visit vestiges of this hacienda, and also coffee plantations that remain to this day. The main attractions in the island are: the Interpretation Center; Ochoa Beach, Playa Man, Pitt Pint, El Junco lagoon (the only fresh water lagoon in the archipelago) and the Lobos Island. You will be surprised by the presence of sea lions in town. A highlight when visiting this island is a tour to Kicker Rock, a stunning rock formation surrounded by abundant sea life (especially sharks). On the same trip you can visit the beautiful Cerro Brujo beach.

Puerto Velasco Ibarra Floreana Island This enigmatic island is the least inhabited of the archipelago, inspite of the fact that it was the first one to be colonized, basically by national and foreign settlers during the first decades of this century. Many legends have been written about its people. “Floreana” by Margarett Wittmer is

a most interesting novel that describes the situations of these settlers! The main attractions are: the historical Post Office Bay and Asilo de la Paz, Punta Cormoran, Corona del Diablo, Enderby and Gardner Bay.

Puerto Villamil Isabela Island This enchanted town has a population of about 2,500, mostly fishermen. Close to town are several impressive sites: a path alongside a reef that is home to several white tip sharks- you can easily observe them from land; “Concha y Perla” bay; a giant tortoise breeding center; and the amazing volcanoes Sierra Negra and Volcán Chico. Sierra Negra has the second largest crater in the world, with a diameter of 7.46 miles. Volcán Chico has an overwhelming “lunatic” landscape with fascinating lava formations. It’s possible to horseback ride or trek around Sierra Negra’s crater to Volcán Chico. Photos Shutterstock

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Isabela also has a flamingo lake and several beautiful trails along the way to the “Wall of Tears”. This wall is proof of the genuine human history of the islands. Around 1946, this island was a penal colony. Prisoners were kept busy carrying sharp lava rocks to form this wall.

GALAPAGOS MARINE RESERVE: The interior waters of the islands, plus those within 40 nautical miles measured from the baseline of the Archipelago, were declared the Galapagos Marine Reserve on 1994. This is the only protected coastal marine area in the East Pacific, and the second largest Marine Reserve in the World. There are many areas with small submarine volcanoes, which are important feeding zones for marine birds and mammals. Don’t miss the opportunity to snorkel with sea lions, penguins, a variety of colorful fish and even inoffensive sharks! Diving courses and tours are also

offered for those who are willing to be adventurous!

DIVING IN GALAPAGOS For many a Galapagos diving trip is the trip of a lifetime as it is one of the last places in the world where you can go diving with large schools of sharks. But although sharks may be the star of the show, these waters are home to much more: manta and leopard rays, dolphins, sea lions, penguins, sea turtles, yellow fin tuna, almaco jacks, bacalo, leather bass and blue striped chub… just to name a few. An impressive number of large animals such as sea lions, rays, eels and sea turtles are seen on almost every dive. Found at the confluence of warm and cold surface currents and deep cold upwelling waters, the Galapagos Marine Reserve is home to a fascinating marine life. Its waters are rich with nutrients and the porous lava rocks provide small fish with the protection they would otherwise receive from a coral reef, which are few and far between in these waters.

More than 2.900 marine species have been reported in the Galapagos, ¼ of which are exclusive to this reserve (endemic). Home to over 500 species of fish, 24 species of marine mammals, and 27 shark species including Hammerheads and the enormous Whale Shark, the Galapagos Marine Reserve is a World Natural Heritage Site. Besides all this diversity, several land animals and marine birds depend exclusively on the Galapagos waters for their survival; thus, the conservation of the Marine Reserve is a priority. Galapagos isn’t just for advanced divers; these waters offer something for divers of all skill levels. Intermediate divers will be delighted by daily dive trips to sites like Gordon Rocks, Cousins Rocks, North Seymour and Floreana where hammerheads, Galapagos sharks, giant manta rays, golden rays, morays, fur seal and sea lions are all commonly seen. Contact our sponsors for more information.

THIS MONTH IN GALAPAGOS Max temperature 24 °C / 76°F Min temperature 19 °C / 66°F Hours of clear skies 3.3 Sea temperature 22 °C / 71°F

AUGUST • The Galapagos hawks court on Española and Santiago islands. • Masked boobies and swallow tailed gulls nest on Genovesa island. • Temperature of the ocean descends to 18° C (64°F), which obviously varies according to the geographic zones among the islands. • Migrant shore birds start to arrive, and stay on the islands until March. • Giant tortoises return to the highlands of Santa Cruz. Source: www.galapagosexplorer.com 29

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PREMIUM SERVICES - SANTA CRUZ ISLAND

MALDONADO JEWELRY, GALAPAGOS. EXCLUSIVE DESIGNS HAND MADE Address: Av. Charles Darwin y Tomás de Berlanga, Santa Cruz. Phone: (593) 5 2527071 E mail: carlosmaldonado@joyeriamaldonado.com

www.joyeriamaldonado.com 30

Principal Colón E 10-53 y Caamaño Sucursales •Quito Quicentro Shopping Hotel Patio Andaluz •Pinsaqui Hosteria Hacienda Pinsaqui

•Guayaquil Village Plaza •Galapagos Av. Charles Darwin e Isla Seymour

folklore@olgafisch.com Tels: +593 2 256 3085 +593 2 254 1315.

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PREMIUM SERVICES - SANTA CRUZ ISLAND

Cel Phones: 09 4724-955 09 2164-720 Email: tangermeyer@yahoo.com Punta Estrada - Puerto Ayora Santa Cruz - Galapagos Islands

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The Ecuadorian Coast extends from the western slopes of the Andes to the Pacific Ocean. This region is crossed from North to South by a lower mountain range and is full of alluvial plains. The Ecuadorian Coast was populated by the oldest known cultures of the country, such as Valdivia (3.500-1.800 BC). Ever since then, the region has had the largest agricultural development in the country, thanks to the variety of natural resources such as water, wide plains and fertile soils. The Ecuadorian Coast holds three main ecosystems: the tropical wet forests of the north, the tropical savannas of the center and south east, and the dry forest of the west and southern peninsula. Throughout the coastline there are two additional important ecosystems: the mangroves, the beaches and the rock cliffs.

Two oceanographic phenomenons influence the diversity that is found in the country and especially in the coast. "El Ni帽o" current comes from the North and is warm and humid. The "Humboldt" current comes from the south and is cold and dry. The weather in the Coast is mostly warm; however, there are two seasons, wet and dry. The first is warm and humid, and goes from December to May. The rest of the

year is dry and cooler. The two seasons are clearly distinct from the province of Manabi to the rest of the South. The northern province of Esmeraldas has warm weather all year long, and high levels of rainfall; thus its lush vegetation. During the months of the austral winter (June to September), the Ecuadorian coast has an additional attraction: the presence of Humpback whales (Megapter novoaengliae) that migrate from the Antarctic to tropical waters to mate and give birth to their calves. A favorite spot for whale-watching is the Machalilla National Park in the Manabi Province. The old road from Quito to the coast, the Calacali -La Independencia road, passes through some of the best bird-watching territory in the coun-

try. The other route from Quito is through Santo Domingo de los Colorados, set amid a broad sea of banana and oil-palm plantations, skirting a few tropical wet forests such as the little-explored Reserva Ecol贸gica Mache-Chindul, and home to the "Tsachilas", an indigenous culture also called "Colorados" because the men of this culture have painted their hair red for centuries with a vegetable dye taken from the seed of the "achiote". From Santo Domingo a network of paved roads connects to the major coastal centers of the country. From Guayaquil, you can begin the "Ruta del Sol" taking the road throughout the coastline. The following pages will guide you through this route of beautiful beaches, culture and adventure.

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GUAYAQUIL

Guayaquil, the capital of Guayas province, is the largest and most populated city in Ecuador. Located on the Pacific coast, it has a tropical climate, and is known as the ‘Pacific Pearl’. It is the main port of Ecuador, thus, it is of great economic importance to the country. The city was named after an Indigenous Chief, "Guayas", and his wife, "Quil". Both of them chose to die before surrendering themselves to the Spaniards.

Francisco de Orellana founded Guayaquil on the skirts of the Santa Ana Hill on July 25th, 1534. On the top of this hill you can observe cannons that were used to defend the city from pirate attacks. Few houses preserve their original architecture, with defense walls facing the river. Many of these houses were built at different levels on the hill, very common for the Spaniards and Portuguese. The surroundings of the

city offer archeological sites of the pre-Hispanic cultures of Valdivia, Machalilla, Chorrera, Guangala and Manteña. The gulf of Guayaquil, the river, the monuments, museums, parks, and its exhilarating nightlife are part of the attractions of this city.

MAIN ATTRACTIONS SANTA ANA HILL This unique hill with its charming and colorful houses is located on the northern part of the city. After climbing 444 stairs you will have the opportunity to visit many restaurants, shops and art galleries. There is also a small church to visit as well as a lighthouse that overlooks the entire city.

houses hold treasured memories from writers and poets that inhabited this area. Although it exists since colonial times, "Las Peñas" was completely destroyed due to a fire in 1896 (“El Incendio Grande”). It was rebuilt in a neoclassic style. Enjoy a stroll along the charming cobble stoned street “Numa Pompillo Llona”, full of small art galleries. Here you can also witness the influence of the Pacific Naval Yards from the Spanish colonial times.

MALECÓN SIMÓN BOLÍVAR

"LAS PEÑAS" NEIGHBORHOOD

On this 1 1/2 mile waterfront walk you’ll find entertainment, culture and nature! Malecón Simón Bolívar includes monuments, museums, gardens, fountains, shopping malls, restaurants, bars, an IMAX theater, as well as docks and viewpoints.

Adjacent to the stairways is "Las Peñas", the first residential neighborhood of Guayaquil. Its wooden

Malecón Simón Bolívar is the largest architectural development in the last

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century of Guayaquil’s history (total surface is 4,942 acres). It runs from Cuenca Street on the south of the city, all the way to "Barrio las Peñas" on the north. Your walk up the Malecón Simón Bolívar will take you through three sections:

NORTHERN This section has space for sports, entertainment, science, history and art. Children’s games, space for aerobics and skating, all these surrounded by the historical Plaza de Orellana, Plaza de la Pileta (water fountain) and Plaza del Vagón, with a wagon of the antique Ecuadorian train. In this section you will also find gardens that hold diverse plant species of the Ecuadorian coast, and the Centro Cultural Simón Bolívar.

CENTRAL With the Civic Plaza (10 de Agosto and Pichincha) containing a gallery dedicated to the most outstanding personalities in Guayaquil’s history, this section is mostly historic. You can also admire other monuments:

HEMICICLO DE LA ROTONDA This historical monument is a spectacular semicircle commemorating the meeting of two Latin American liberators, Simón Bolívar and San Martin, when it was decided that Guayaquil be annexed to the Gran Colombia. The monument was designed and constructed by the Spanish sculptor Jose Antonio Holms and placed in 1937. From this historical site you can see the Rafael Mendoza Avilés bridge (the largest in Ecuador).

MOORISH OR CLOCK TOWER The clock was bought in England thanks to a loan given by Don Manuel Antonio Lizárraga, a rich Spanish merchant, one of the illustrious figures of the Independence. The clock was inaugurated in October of 1842 just after the terrible epidemic yellow fever in Guayaquil, the worst in its history. In 1903, the clock was moved, tower and all, from City Hall that was demolished to Town Hall.

However, from this location, the tolls that announced the hour could not be heard throughout the city, so two stories were built on to the tower. In 1920, an Italian engineer built a tower of three prismatic parts entirely made of carwood. Finally, due to structural flaws, this tower had to be demolished. At this time, the foreign colony residing in Guayaquil together with the City Council constructed a new tower in a pure Mozarabic Style. Also in this section you can visit the four sculptures that represent the elements of nature, the Guayaquil Yatch Club and the Naval Yatch Club. From the pier, the Pirate Morgan Tavern Ship has daily departures for a cruise around the Guayas River. Services include a covered parking lot, security area, rest rooms and a first aid center.

SOUTHERN The old market is found in this section. It was inaugurated in 1907, and its authorship is attributed to the famous French engineer Eiffel. In this section you will find the "Club de la Unión", the most traditional social center in Guayaquil. As you continue you will come to the Olmedo Plaza, where a monument of José Joaquín de Olmedo, a famous

poet from Guayaquil, President of Ecuador in the XIXth century, is found. To conclude your visit through this section, visit the modern architecture of the new Bahía Malecon Mall, with its terrace of restaurants that offers a spectacular view of the Guayas River.

MALECÓN “EL SALADO” Smaller than Malecon 2000, this waterfront walk also offers entertainment, culture and nature. At El Salado you find a variety of restaurants and bars to chose from; handcraft shops and entertainment for children. It is located at 9 de Octubre & La Ria.

OTHER ATTRACTIONS IN GUAYAQUIL CENTENARIO PARK The park is located at the heart of the city and is also one of the largest in Guayaquil. There are bronze monuments, which represent heroism, justice, patriotism, and freedom. One monument representing the man who fought for independence was designed by a Spanish Sculptor, Agustin Querol, and built by José Monserrat in 1818.

SEMINARIO PARK Also known as the Bolívar Park or Iguanas Park, it is located on Chile Street between 10 de Agosto and 37

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vegetation. Address: Quito St, between El Oro y Venezuela.

GENERAL CEMETERY Although few cemeteries can be considered a tourist attraction, this one is worth admiring. It has outstanding sculptures made of white marble. The style has a strong Italian influence. Beautiful stretches of palm trees lead to the grave of the past president, Vicente Rocafuerte.

SPORT CENTERS Guayaquil is famous for its great sport facilities, including one of the 20 biggest soccer stadiums in the world, “Isidro Romero” (seats 85,000 people). This stadium is located at Del Bombero Av. The city also hosts a modern horse track with races every weekend- the Hipódromo Buijo (Samborondón). There are also tracks for kart, bicycle, motorcycle and car races; as well as basketball, golf and polo courts and great water sport facilities.

Clemente Ballén Avenues. The park was inaugurated on July 24, 1880. You can admire the statue of the liberator Simon Bolívar. This park is exceptional for its wildlife. You will see fish, a variety of birds, and numerous iguanas. The iguanas of the park have always been one of its main attractions. These animals chose this place to feed themselves from its vegetation, because the town of Guayaquil used to end at this park and all the rest was savanna.

CENTRO CIVICO

This modern center has an information office for tourists, exposition halls, convention halls, and other large areas for musical events, concerts, theaters, and other cultural events. On the upper floor of the civic center one can admire outstanding sculptures of Oswaldo Guayasamin. This center has an artificial lake surrounded by exuberant

Municipality Palace (Pichincha 605 and 10 de Agosto), the Governor’s Palace (Malecón and Aguirre), Sucre Square (Pichincha and Clemente Ballén), Rocafuerte Square (Rocafuerte and Junin), and the Planetarium (via Puerto Marítimo).

CHURCHES THE CATHEDRAL This Neo-Gothic Cathedral was built in 1948. The main altar is made of marble from Cuenca and its glass stained windows are beautiful works of art. It is located on the corner of Chimborazo and Clemente Ballén Avenues. Visiting hours: 9h0012h00, and14h00-17h00 everyday.

SANTO DOMINGO This church is the oldest in Guayaquil, being built in the 16th Century. It was later restored in 1938. It is decorated with the famous paintings of Salas. It is located on Rocafuerte and Coronel Ave. Visiting hours: 8h00 to 18h00.

WE ALSO RECOMMEND THAT YOU VISIT

LA MERCED

The “Guayas and Quil” Monument (Las Americas Ave.), the

It has a gothic style and a gold covered altar. It is located on Rendón

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and Pedro Carbo Ave. Open Monday thru Friday 7h-12h00 and 18h19h30. Saturdays 7h-10h00 and 18h-20h00. Free admission.

MUSEUMS CENTRO CULTURAL SIMÓN BOLÍVAR The Centro Cultural Simón Bolívar of the Ecuadorian Central Bank guards a collection of 50.000 archeological pieces and a collection of modern art of 3.000 works. It also houses a library of 20.000 publications specialized in art, archeology and anthropology. Additionally, the museum has six exhibit halls, a multipurpose room for conferences and workshops, a documental center, a bookstore and a handcraft shop, as well as a cinema with a capacity for 380 people. Free outdoor movie projections are presented periodically. Open Tuesday thru Saturday from 10h00 to 17h00, Sundays and holidays from 11h00 to 15h00. Address: Malecon Simon Bolivar and Loja (at the Northern part of the Malecon 2000, next to the Imax theater). Admission fee: WednesdaySaturday $1.50, Sundays free

CASA DE LA CULTURA This museum holds the most valuable pre-historic gold work collection in Ecuador, Most pieces were made by the indigenous inhabitants of our coast. You will see ceremonial pots, snake-shaped bracelets, nose rings, gold pieces that were used on the lips and cheeks, elaborate pins used to fasten clothing, chest shields, ceremonial masks and earrings. The abundance of gold provoked the greed of the Spanish conquerors, who hoarded and sent vast quantities of this precious metal back to Spain. Thus, gold workmanship disappeared due to the Indigenous belief that gold was evil, being the main cause of having Spaniards come to their lands. Archeological objects such as the "Ocarinas" (clay whistles), stone

headrests, molds for gold masks and clay seals, apparently have Egyptian influence. There are many colonial paintings from anonymous authors and from well-known artists of this period (such as Goribar and Rodriguez). Address: 9 de Octubre 1200 & Pedro Moncayo. Open Tuesday thru Friday from 10h-18h00, Saturdays 9h-15h00. Admission fee: $1 adults, $0.50 children, senior citizens and students. Phone: 2300586.

GUAYAQUIL IN HISTORY Located at Malecon 2000 under the IMAX Theater, this didactic Museum holds a miniature exhibit of the most remarkable scenes of Guayaquil’s history. It is an auto-guided museum (in Spanish) with entertaining explanations and lively music. Open Mondays thru Sundays from 9h- 13h30 and 16h-20h00. Admission fee: $1,50 adults, $1 children. Phone: 2563078.

THE MUNICIPAL MUSEUM This museum has four divisions: Archeology, History, Colonial Art and Modern Art. You will have the chance to see original “tzanzas” (shrunken heads.) The Shuar culture of the south- east used to shrink their enemies head to keep the bad spirits away from them. These miniature heads have not lost

their original features when reduced. The mystery of this process has not yet been discovered. Even though the Shuar culture is still alive, the shrinking heads tradition is not. Located at the corner of Sucre Street and Pedro Carbo. Visiting hours: Tuesday thru Saturday 9h00 to 17h00. Free admission. Identification document is required. Phone: 2599100.

NAHIM ISAIAS MUSEUM Located at the Plaza de la Administracion and inserted in the process of urban regeneration, the Nahim Isaias Museum`s vision is to promote the colonial art by means of its cultural funds. The complete collection of the Museum includes 2.179 works of art. The second floor holds a permanent exhibition of colonial art. The exhibit is called “Cosmognias”, and is a didactical sample that integrates the most representative works of the colonial culture. This exhibit consists of 100 pieces: sculptures, paintings, clothes and accessories of the colonial period. The exhibit is divided in 4 routes: Fire, Earth, Water and Air. Open Tuesday thru Saturday from 10h00 to 18h00. Sundays and holidays from 11h00 to 15h00. Admission fee: $1.50, Sunday free. Address: Pichincha y Clemente Ballen Phone: 2324182, 2324283 www.museonahimisaias.com

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PRESLEY NORTON MUSEUM “Villa Herlinda”, a two floor manor dating back to 1942, houses the delightful exhibition of “Life and Customs of the Settlers of Ancient Ecuador”. The charming setting and suitable small size of the exhibit, added to the friendly didactic resources like touch screens and a video, make of a visit to this unique museum a most pleasant experience. The museum holds a sample of 129 selected archeological pieces of a collection of over 8,000 artifacts that belonged to Presley Norton, a passionate of Ecuador’s archeology. The pieces belong to three historical periods: Formative (4,200 B.C. – 500 B.C), Regional Development (500 B.C. – 500 A.D.) and Integration (500 A.D.- 1530 A.D.).

NAVAL MUSEUM “ALMIRANTE ILLINGWORTH” Malecon & Clemente Ballen (Building of the Provincial Government of Guayas). Open Monday thru Friday from 8h00 to 12h30 and 14h00 to 16h00. Free admission. Phone: 2324274.

THE FIREFIGHTERS MUSEUM “FELIX LUQUE PLATA” Located at the old water distributor in Plaza Colon, close to “Las Peñas” neighborhood. Open Tuesday thru Saturday from 10h00 to 17h00. Admission fee: $0.75 adults, $0.25 children. Phone: 230 8565.

SURROUNDINGS BOTANICAL GARDEN

Open Tuesday thru Saturday from 9h00 to 17h00. Holidays from 10h00 to 15h00. Free admission. Guide service both in English and Spanish. Address: corner of 9 de Octubre and Carchi. Phone: (04) 229 3423.

This garden holds approximately 700 plant species that have been cultivated resembling their natural habitat. Among these are trees used for wood, fruit trees, ornamental and exotic plants. More than 80 species of orchids, both native and introduced from other tropical countries, can be observed. An exhibit of native medicinal plants of the Coast is also found. Approximately 75 bird species of the dry tropical forest fly freely in the garden. Jardin Botanico also houses a butterfly-breeding center, with approximately 27 species. Representations of the Valdivia, Manteña and Jama-Coaque cultures are exhibited along the internal roads. Located at "Cerro Colorado" in northern Guayaquil, Ciudadela Las Orquideas, Av. Francisco de Orellana. Open every day from 8h00 to 16h00. Entrance fee: $3.00 adults, $1.50 students, children and senior citizens. Guide service is $5.00 for groups up to 20 people. Phone: 2899 689. Workshops and conferences on plant cultivation are offered.

CERRO BLANCO PROTECTED FOREST 40

Protected by governmental decree

and run by the Pro-Forest Foundation, Cerro Blanco protects one of the few remaining areas of dry tropical forest in Ecuador with a rich biodiversity, including jaguar, puma, howler, and capuchin monkeys, white-tailed deer, collared peccary, coatimundi and crab-eating raccoon. Cerro Blanco is a bird watcher’s paradise, with 211 species including 22 species of birds of prey and a small population of the threatened Great Green Macaw, the symbol of this Protected Forest. Cerro Blanco’s facilities include an outdoor amphitheater museum, 4 nature trails, picnic and camping area, and the Great Green Macaw Captive Breeding Center. From January to May, the view is totally green and abundant water allows bird’s nesting. From June to December is the dry season: the leaves’ colors change to brownish red, and trees flower. Don’t miss visiting one of the last remains of this unique ecosystem! Located at km 16 on the way from Guayaquil to Salinas, in front of Roosevelt Academy School, it can be easily reached by buses of Chongon Company or buses that run from the land terminal to the coast, as well as by taxi. Open every day from 8h00 to 16h30. Previous reservation is required for visits during week days. Phone: 287 4946 / 7 – 09 4135 730 Entrance fee: $4 adults, $3 children. Guide service is $10 for groups of up to 8 people. E-mail:bosqueprotector@yahoo.com www.bosquecerroblanco.com Visits Monday thru Sunday from 8h30 to 15h30 without prior reservation.

HISTORIC PARK A natural habitat of mangrove trees, the fresh waters of the Daule River, and the tropical climate of the place are the perfect setting to bring the past back to life in this 20 acre park. In a one day visit one can encounter the fauna and flora of the region in the "wildlife zone", the history, cultural manifestations and rural life in the

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"traditions zone", and the "urbanarchitectonic zone", which holds original pieces from Guayaquil’s antique architecture destroyed by some fires in the XIXth century, to bring back to life what the city once was. On Sundays Historical Park becomes livelier with cultural and festive activities. Music, typical food, people dressed up with antique clothes, among other activities, add color and flavor to this cultural setting. Located only 10 minutes from the city crossing over the Daule River, close to the residential neighborhood of Samborondon #3. The entrance fee is $3 for adults, $1.50 for children and $1 for senior citizens. On Sundays the fee is $4.50 for adults and $3 for children. Open Wednesday to Sunday from 9h00 to 16h30. Guide service is available. You can arrange group visits by calling 283 2958 previously. Transportation service is available next to the entrance of the MAAC parking lot in Malecon 2000 (Malecon & Loja St.).

PUERTO HONDO MANGROVES Through the formation of an Ecological Club, the community is making a united effort to conserve the remaining mangroves in the area. Among its projects, the club offers ecotourism opportunities. Visit this beautiful natural site with exotic flora and fauna! It is located at km.17 on the way from Guayaquil to Salinas. Open every day from 9h00 to 17h00.

Prior reservation is required for visits from Monday thru Saturday. Phone: 091400186. The visitor can choose between a 45 minutes trip through the water ($10) or this same trip plus a visit to the Environmental Education Center ($15). E-mail: bosqueprotector@yahoo.com Photos courtesy of: Municipio de Guayaquil, IMAX MAAC & Parque Histórico.

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NORTHERN GUAYAQUIL

TOURIST ATTRACTIONS 1. Malecon El Salado 2. Las Pe単as neighborhood 3. Santa Ana hill Malecon 2000: 4. IMAX 5. Moorish Clock Tower 6. Crystal Palace PARKS & MONUMENTS 7. Historical Park 8. Centenario Park 9. Seminario Park 10. La Rotonda

MUSEUMS 11. Casa de la Cultura

12. Municipal 13. Nahim Isaias 14. Naval Museum 15. MAAC 16. The Firefighters Museum CHURCHES 17. Cathedral 18. La Merced 19. Santo Domingo PUBLIC SERVICES 20. Post Office 21. Communications 22. Guayas Province Government 23. Municipal Palace

TELEPHONE CO.

BANKS & EXCHANGE

HOSPITALS 24. Kennedy 25. General Hospital AIRPORT SHOPPING & HANDICRAFTS 26. Aventura Plaza 27. Mall del Sol 28. Garzocentro 29. Plaza Quil 30. San Marino Shopping

31. Policentro 32. Las Vitrinas 33. Handicraft Market Malecon 2000 34. Handicraft Market Loja HOTELS 35. Sheraton 36. Hilton Colon 37. Howard Johnson 38. Gold Center Hotel 39. Oro Verde 40. Grand Hotel Guayaquil 41. Las Pe単as 42. Hampton Inn 43. Palace 44. Unipark 45. Continental 46. Marriot 47. Orilla del Rio

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DOWNTOWN GUAYAQUIL

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CULTURE + ENTERTAINMENT - GUAYAQUIL EXHIBITS

PERMANENT ATTRACTIONS MALECÓN SIMON BOLIVAR

Tuesdays-Saturdays 9h00-17h00 Holidays 10h00-15h00

Engravings, workshop directed by the artist Walter Páez Place: Museo Presley Norton

Open until Tuesday 20th

Open until Sunday 8th Tuesdays-Saturdays 9h30- 16h30 Sundays and holidays 11h00-1530

Estéticas de lo innominable By: Julio Mosquera – María José Machado Place: MAAC

Painting Exhibit by the German artist Hanz Michaelson Place: Centro Cultural Simón Bolívar Tuesdays thru Saturdays 9h00-17h30

Sacred Art, a Journey through Faith Place: Museo Municipal Free admission Wednesday thru Saturdays 10h00-17h30 Sundays 10h00-15h00

Julio Jaramillo’s Popular Music Place: Museo de la Música Popular Julio Jaramillo Free admission Wednesday thru Saturdays 10h00-17h00 Sundays 10h00- 15h00

Guayaquil’s Beer History Place: Museo Pilsener Free admission Mondays thru Saturdays 9h00-17h00

Life and costumes of Antique Ecuadorian settlers Place: Museo Presley Norton Free admission 44

Horse Carriages Departure from Malecón & Sucre St.

Open until August 22th Mondays- 13h00 to 18h00 Tuesdays to Fridays- 08h30 to 18h00 Weekends -10h00 to 18h00

Dinosaurs in Malecon 22 replicas of prehistoric animals, 35 species of current age and Ecuadorian fossils Place: Malecón 2000 Admission fee: $2 general; seniors, children $1,50 Monday 16th to Thursday 19th;

Guayaquil Gourmet Exposition of Guayaquil’s gastronomic industry Place: Centro de Convenciones de Guayaquil

PERMANENT EXHIBITS Guayaquil at the beginning of the XXth C Place: Malecón 1900, Parque Histórico Ancestral Medicinal Wisdom Place: Ethnobotanic Garden, Parque Histórico

IMAX Movie Theater For information about movie schedules log in www.imaxmalecon2000.com Santay Island A 2.5-hour boat ride from the Simón Bolivar jetty. Recommendations: Wear light clothes, insect repellent, sunscreen. Take bottled water. Inexpensive rubber boot rental is available at the Island. The island floods every 15 days, therefore to visit we recommend contacting the tide advisors (at the Malecón) and not to travel in tidal water. For more info contact: Discovery 2304831.

ADDRESSES: • Museo Presley Norton: Corner of Av. 9 de Octubre & Carchi. P: 229 3423 • Centro Cultural Simón Bolívar / MAAC: Malecón Simón Bolívar & Loja (next to the Imax Theater). P: 230 9384 ext. 221 • Museo Municipal: Sucre Street & Pedro Carbo P: 259 9100 ext. 7402 • Museo de la Música Popular Julio Jaramillo/ Museo Pilsener: Puerto Santa Ana Edificio Nº 3, Piso 2º • Parque Histórico: Km 1/2 vía Samborondón, Av. Esmeraldas. P: 283 2958 www.parquehistoricoguayaquil.com • Centro de Convenciones de Guayaquil: Avenida de Las Américas, former airport.

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PREMIUM HOTELS - GUAYAQUIL

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PREMIUM HOTELS - GUAYAQUIL

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La Taberna Libanesa Address: C.C. Las Terrazas, Ave. Esmeraldas & Ave. Central, local 6A, V铆a Samborond贸n Phone: 2837 564

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RESTAURANTS - GUAYAQUIL

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RUTA DEL SOL

Guayas, Santa Elena & Manabí Provinces This route guides us through the unique nature and history of the coastal provinces of Guayas, Santa Elena and Manabí. You can fly either to Guayaquil or Manta, and drive through the coastline. The following pages will guide you from Guayaquil, traveling Northward.

Following this route, nature lovers have the opportunity to explore unique dry forests with their two contrasting seasons, cloud forests and their rare fauna and flora, to dive within coral reefs surrounded by exotic sea life, to admire the numerous bird species of the region, and submerge in isolated and exotic beaches. The "ChongónColonche" Mountain Range at the north

of the Guayas province has unique ecosystems with an amazing diversity of endemic plants and birds: one can climb from very dry forests at the coast to lush cloud forests at the top of the hills, only a few kilometers away. For those who are sports inclined, there are opportunities to fish, sail, surf, ski and dive. In addition, these two provinces hold vestiges of an amazingly rich history. The most antique cultures of America settled here on the Coasts of South America. Finally, if you only wish to rest, suntan, and watch the sunset… along this route you will find suiting accommodations and services.

1 "REAL ALTO" IN-SITU MUSEUM: on the way from Guayaquil to Salinas, one finds this museum managed by the community descendant of the "Valdivia"

culture. The place resembles a ceremonial center of the human groups that inhabited this area from 4.200 1.500 B.C. Open Tues- Sunday, 9h00-17h00. Admission fee: $2.00.

2 MUSEUM OF THE "LOVERS OF SUMPA": definitely worth visiting is this small but outstanding in-situ museum, which is located at the antique settlement village of the "Las Vegas" culture (approx. 8.800 to 4.600 BC). The museum got its name because the burial that is uncovered disclosed the skeletons of a man and a woman that were carefully buried together about 5-6.000 years ago. This museum is the largest cemetery of the time that has been excavated in the new world. Open Thursday thru Saturday, 10h00 to 17h00. Sundays and holidays 10h00 to 15h00. Phone: 294-1020 Admission fee is $ 0.50, includes guide service.

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3 SALINAS: excellent accommodations are found in Salinas, called this way because salt is extracted from the region. This site is a corridor for migratory bird and marine species. It is a favorite vacation spot for people from Guayaquil. The boardwalk of Salinas is a safe place that offers entertainment day and night.

On the Malecon, you can visit the Naval Archeological Museum (open Wednesday-Sunday). This small museum displays the vast archeological richness of the pre-Hispanic cultures that inhabited this region. The museum also displays a representation of the antique "balsas" made of the wood of the same name, with great cotton sails that impressed the Spaniards because they traveled long distances (Mexico-Peru). The museum also displays coins from the Spanish conquest, and some pieces from the "Lady Captain" galleon that sank in 1664.

7 6 Dos Mangas

Sinchal

Valdivia

Loma Alta

El Suspiro

Barcelona

Playa Rosada

4 BALLENITA: The "Farallon Dillon" Restaurant- Museum is found at the site. It has a wonderful viewpoint that is the perfect setting for bird and whale watching. The museum displays modern practical artifacts made out of antique marine pieces; most of the artifacts are for sale.

Colonche

3 2

5 VALDIVIA: close to the town are a

museum and an aquarium. The museum displays archeological pieces of the Valdivia culture. The aquarium is most interesting not only because of the display of exotic sea life, but also because the guides are homeless children; this job enables them to obtain an education.

6 MONTAﾃ選TA: it is a favorite spot for national and international surfers and young adventure tourists. This charming town offers a variety of inexpensive hostels, national and international food, and an exhilarating nightlife. 7 OLON: the wide beach of Olon is crowned with an outstanding Sanctuary, with open walls and a breathtaking view of the beach.

LEGEND

Typical food National Protected Area Beaches Airport Surfing Fishing Water Sports Accommodation

Capital of Province Cities / towns Small towns Main Road Secondary Road La Ruta del Sol Scuba diving 51

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8 MACHALILLA NATIONAL PARK: This park has various attractions: Isla de la Plata off the coast of Puerto Lopez, Los Frailes Beach, the Archeological Site of Agua Blanca, Salango, and the Beaches of Puerto Rico and Puerto Cayo (see page 18).

9 MANTA: Until recently, Manta was only known for its important tuna fishing fleet, the production of vegetable oil, and the famous “Panama hats”. Today, the visit of cruise ships, the aerial base rented to the US Air Force for anti-narcotics operations, and the construction of modern hotels, have transformed the city into an important tourist destination. Many foreigners have chosen Manta and the nearby Crucita town as their retirement residence. Manta is a modern city, however, some antique bamboo and wooden houses still remain as a reminder of the old village. With an average temperature of 77ºF all year long, dry weather and dry tropical forest in its surroundings, Manta is an attractive city to visit. Additionally, Manta offers first class hotel facilities and daily flights on Icaro and Aerogal from the main cities. The warmth and hospitality of the Manteños contributes to the rapid tourism development of the entire province. Delicious gastronomy is also one of the main attractions of Manta. Don’t miss the seafood “ceviches” or the exquisite “viche de pescado”.

Manta is decorated with a wide variety of tree species: ceibos, jasmines, almonds, rubber plants, acacias, and beautiful palm trees. The balsa tree (ochroma logopus) is native to this province. Its light wood allowed the early inhabitants of the region to navigate large distances easily and rapidly. From history books we have learned that the golden jewels and decorations worn by the navigators caught the attention of the first Spanish visitors, who believed that

the gold they couldn’t find in the Caribbean was at the South Pacific.

have been built within the mangroves, as well as boat tours around the island.

10 BAHIA DE CARAQUEZ: The city

La Segua Marsh is a sweet water humidity area of about 172 hectares. In La Segua there are approximately 280 thousand bird species.

of Bahía de Caráquez is named after the bay and the pre-Columbian residents who came from the sea and settled here. Because of the estuary and the Pacific Ocean around the city, the local nature offers sweet and salt water that allows diverse vegetation. In the area you can find mangrove trees, ceibos forests, sweet water humidity such as that in La Segua Marsh. A few years ago Bahía became an ecocity as a result of its big Green Movement and because of the community effort to rebuild the city after the earthquakes suffered in 1997. Bahía de Caráquez is one of the few cities in Ecuador that recycles waste serving as an example for other regions. Traffic is not a problem. Many residents and tourists prefer to use “ecological Taxis” which are bikes adapted to transport two passengers. This keeps the city free of pollution and offers a peaceful place ideal for vacationing.

MAIN ATTRACTIONS: Isla Corazón is a mangrove forest refuge comprised of 130 acres and is home to one of the largest colonies of Magnificent Frigate birds in all the South Pacific. Since 1998 the protection of the sanctuary is the responsibility of an adjacent community called Portovelo, that has a mangrove reforestation project and are glad to show around the island on wooden trails that

Cerro Seco is one of the last tropical dry forests in the world. The Cabo Pasado: Is a remnant of pre-mountain forest which is a geographical transition between the Tumbesian region of dry tropical forest and the tropical rainforest of the Chocó Region. This amazing combination of climates and microclimates is the result of both the “el Niño¨ (hot) current running from north to south and the Humboldt (cool) current running from south to north, meeting precisely in front of the Cabo Pasado. The result is the only area in South America where you can observe the flora and fauna of both tropical and dry forests coexisting together. It can be toured by horseback or hiking. It is very probable to see and listen to howler monkeys. Photos shutterstock

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NATURAL MAIN EVENTS WHALE- WATCHING SEASON

Humpback Whales off the Ecuadorian Coast Every year during the austral winter (June-October), humpback whales (Megaptera novaeangliae) migrate from the Antarctic to tropical waters off Ecuador and Colombia for breeding. The reason why these whales look for Ecuadorian waters to breed is because the calves need to be born in a warm environment, since they are born with a thin isolating layer. Humpback whales are dark with a great variety of white areas on the ventral part and flippers. They have the largest flippers of all the whales, almost a third part of their body’s length. With 12-15 meters in length and more than 30 tons of weight, humpbacks are the most acrobatic and spectacular of the bigger whales. They like to breach out the water or hit repetitively the surface with their flipper or flukes. It is believed that the sound produced in this form could be used for communications purposes.

Humpback whales are also well known as the singer whales during the breeding season. Males take a vertical position head down and “sing” a complex sound repertory. These songs are structured in themes and can last 20 minutes or more. Singers can repeat the song once and again for hours. All the whales around sing a similar song, although the song is changing as the season progresses. The meaning of the songs is probably related to the reproduction process. The whales that can be found off the Ecuadorian coast belong to one of six Southern hemisphere stocks that were severely exploited during the first half of the XX century. However, recent studies at the central coast off Ecuador show that the southeastern

Pacific humpback whale stock, to which Ecuadorian whales belong, is recovering significantly. During the breeding season it is possible to find these whales almost in every site along the central and northern coast of the country. Since 1994, whale watching has become a popular activity among the tourists that visit the Machalilla National Park and other sites of the Ecuadorian coast. The activity is steadily increasing, as well as the concern about the whales’ welfare. Contact our sponsors from La Ruta del Sol (pages 54-55) for information about whale-watching tours.

Text by: Fernando Felix. Photographs: Cristina Castro – Pacific Whale Foundation. 53

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PREMIUM HOTELS - RUTA DEL SOL

MANTA

ECUADOR

Tel.: 5935 - 2629999 • Fax: 5935 - 2629989 reservas@hojomanta.com • www.ghl.com.co Kilometro 1.5 Via Barbasquillo • Manta - Ecuador

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PREMIUM HOTELS AND SERVICES - RUTA DEL SOL

Km. 51/2 vía Bahía - Tosagua Phone: (593 5) 2399 399 Email: info@casaceibo.com www.casaceibo.com Bahía de Caráquez - Manabí - Ecuador

Tel.: 5935 - 2629999 • Fax: 5935 - 2629989 reservas@hojomanta.com • www.ghl.com.co Kilometro 1.5 Via Barbasquillo • Manta - Ecuador 55

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Many of the provinces in Ecuador’s highlands are named after the most important mountain or volcano on its territory: Imbabura, Pichincha, Cotopaxi, Tungurahua, and Chimborazo. Most of the names of the mountains have their origin in an indigenous tongue, mostly Quichua. The word “Andes” itself comes from ANTI, which means "where the sun rises".

The Ecuadorian Andes include several active volcanoes. Ecuadorians have witnessed and still can experience numerous volcanic eruptions. "Tungurahua" comes from "Tunguri" (esophagus) and Awa (fire); and indeed this volcano spits fire! It is an exciting experience to observe the volcano in action, and as for now it is safe, from a distance, of course. The town of Baños, a favorite spot for tourists, is located precisely at the skirts of the volcano. The Ecuadorian Andes are the only site on the planet where the Equatorial Line crosses over highlands; in the rest of the world, the Equator crosses through dense tropical forests or the ocean. The pre-Incan cultures that inhabited Quito and its surroundings developed their astronomical knowledge helped by the clear landmarks surrounding the city. Alexander von Humboldt journeyed the Ecuadorian Andes and their valleys in 1802. He named them "The Avenue of the Volcanoes". He believed that he had reached the highest point in the world when he attempted to climb the Chimborazo Mt. (20,702 ft), since the Himalayas were still unknown in Europe at the time. If measured from the center of the Earth, the peak of the Chimborazo is indeed the furthest

point on the planet’s surface (because the Earth is wider at the Tropics). Ecuador has twelve peaks over 16,000 ft. The country offers opportunities to hike; trek and mountain climb for all skill levels. Ecuador’s Andes hold numerous breathtaking view sites: lagoons, extensive paramos (moorlands), mysterious cloudforests,… Moreover, the indigenous communities of the region are known for their colorful folklore and remarkable weaving abilities. Several activities can be enjoyed: birdwatching, biking, water sports on the lakes, interacting with indigenous communities, visiting rose plantations, savoring delicious typical dishes, and much more. The colonial cities of Quito and Cuenca have both been declared World Cultural Heritage Sites. Within easy reach from these cities you can visit imposing natural sites.

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PREMIUM HACIENDAS - ANDES LA MERCED BAJA, A WELL KEPT SECRET (IMBABURA)

HACIENDA PINSAQUI (OTAVALO - IMBABURA)

HACIENDA CUSIN (SAN PABLO - IMBABURA)

In the Zuleta Valley, surrounded by mountains and Andean scenery, away from the main roads and known primarily for those who live there, one finds Hacienda La Merced Baja. Its main productive activity is dairy cattle. In addition, the owners are devoted to livestock bulls and maintenance of an important Andalussian Horse selection, winners of various national awards. Moreover, the cultivation of cereals and other Andean agricultural products complement the farming work jointly with forestation. The visitor can closely observe these activities and even participate in some of them. A cow moos or horse neighs are sure to awaken you.

First constructed in the year of 1790, with three centuries of history, romantic Hacienda Pinsaqui invites you to be a part of its magic and legends… Hacienda Pinsaqui offers all the facilities for an unforgettable visit: 30 luxurious suites with fireplaces (some with Jacuzzi bath), restaurant, 200 year old gardens with an artificial lake, horseback riding, historical Chapel, and a reading room with fireplaces.

Preserving a historic ambiance, Hacienda Cusin’s new English owner established a country inn of 45 guestrooms, suites and gardencottages. Cusin’s terracotta roof tiles, white walls, towers, cobblestone and fountain courtyards nestle beneath a deep-blue sky in a wide, pastoral, lake valley. Nearby Lago San Pablo reflects 15,000 ft Imbabura mountain. Located 90 minutes North of Quito and 15 minutes South of Otavalo, it offers: valley/mountain trails, horseback riding, mountain climbing, bird watching, volleyball and ssquash courts, games room, children’s playground, library, extensive video library, craft & market village tours, spanish lessons.

Reservations & Information: Phone/fax: (593-6) 266 2138 Cell: (593-9) 139 8969 www.haciendamercedbaja.com chiribogamercedbaja@hotmail.com

Reservations & Information: Phone: (593-6) 294 6116 / 117 Cel phone: (593-9) 972 7652 Address: Panamericana Norte Km 5 www.haciendapinsaqui.com info@haciendapinsaqui.com

Reservations & Information: Phone: (593-6) 291 8316 / 317 www.haciendacusin.com hacienda@cusin.com.ec

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HACIENDA LA COMPAÑÍA (CAYAMBE- PICHINCHA) One of the outstanding features of Hacienda La Compañía is the house of French Republican style, which dates back to 1919 and has been in the hands of the same family for generations. The charm of the house is complemented with a striking decoration of thousands of roses which are brought from the Flower Farm belonging to the same family. The owners greet visitors personally and serve breakfast or lunch with typical ingredients and a homey feeling, and then visitors are invited to the Rose Farm to admire the wonders behind all those flowers on vases at the house: the people, the methods, the carefulness of each detail, and moreover, the special awareness in social and environmental processes. Prior reservation is required for a visit. Phone: (593 2) 224 7825 Cel phone: (593 9) 769 4174 haciendalacompania@yahoo.com

HACIENDA SAN AGUSTIN DE CALLO (COTOPAXI)

HACIENDA HATO VERDE (LASSO - COTOPAXI)

At the foot of the Cotopaxi volcano, close to the llinizas, lies the former Inca Palace built by Emperor Tupac Yupanqui (XVth century) and converted into a monastery by the Augustinian Order (XVth century). Today, this unique family hacienda provides a warm atmosphere with fireplaces in the bedrooms, luxurious bathrooms and an excellent cuisine to savor in the Inca dining room. Two or more days are recommended to enjoy horseback riding lessons and excursions: trekking, biking, and visits to local markets, typical country villages and rose plantations.

Hacienda Hato Verde is part of an antique large dairy farm. Its elegant 120-year old farm house was reconstructed in 2000 preserving its rustic materials such as pumice-stone, decorations and style. The countryhouse has nine thoughtfully decorated bedrooms, each with fireplace and a beautiful view of the farm. Within its 40 hectares you can do a variety of activities including horseback riding, biking or hiking. There is a dining room with a cozy oven, perfect for baking home-made bread and pizzas. While the time goes by in the living rooms, fine cuisine is being prepared in the kitchen and delicious tea and coffee are always available.

Reservations & Information: Quito - (593-2) 290 6157 / 8 Hacienda - (593-3) 271 9160 / 271 9577 / 271 8048 Fax: (593-3) 271 9510 www.incahacienda.com info@incahacienda.com

Reservations & Information: Phone/fax: (593-3) 271 9902 / (593-3) 271 9348 Address: Panamericana Sur Km. 55 entrance to Mulaló Lasso, Cotopaxi www.haciendahatoverde.com info@haciendahatoverde.com

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PREMIUM HACIENDAS - ANDES HOTEL HACIENDA ABRASPUNGO (CHIMBORAZO)

POSADA INGAPIRCA (CAĂ&#x2018;AR)

HOSTERIA UZHUPUD (AZUAY)

The wonderful Hacienda Abraspungo is located at 2,754 meters above sea level and is surrounded by the magnificence of the Ecuadorian Andes. Abraspungo is adorned with old photographs and illustrations of Andean landscapes, which today constitutes as a testimony to eras gone by. The antiques on display in the social areas give a colonial flavors as well as a feel for the pre-Colombian cultures of the region. The visitor can truly appreciate the richness of the natural resources offered by the Chimborazo Province and Ecuador in general. The Hacienda offers 40 luxurious rooms, restaurant, beautiful gardens and social areas, and many activities.

In the mysterious and beautiful region where the CaĂąaris and Incas inhabited, and where their most important monument in Ecuador stands, one finds this beautiful resting spot in an enchanting antique hacienda house.

A wonderful place in the highlands of Ecuador. Hosteria Uzhupud is located along the banks of the Paute River, thirty minutes from Cuenca. There, traditional colonial architecture and nature blend together to remind visitors of the pleasure and privilege of living.

Reservations & Information: Phone: (593-3) 236 4274 / 5 Cell (593) 0976 83450 www.haciendaabraspungo.com info@haciendaabraspungo.com

La Posada Ingarpica offers comfortable rooms, excellent typical food, and a unique ambience.

Reservations & Information: Phone: (593-7) 282 7401/ 283 1120 Fax: (593-7) 283 2340 Cuenca office: Calle Larga 693 y Borrero www.grupo-santaana.net santaana@etapaonline.net.ec

Reservations & Information: Phone: (593-7) 225 0339 Fax: (593-7) 225 0373 Address: Km 32 Cuenca-Paute road e-mail: uzhupud1@cue.satnet.net

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THE NORTHERN ANDES

IMBABURA VOLCANO

Mountains,Lakes & Folklore The Northern Sierra offers a magnificent scenery of volcanoes, sparkling lakes and patchwork-covered hills. Taking the Panamericana highway north of Quito, the first highlight is the Cayambe volcano (18,997 ft), crossed by the Equator. This snowpeak overlooks the city with the

same name, which in the last decade has grown in importance because of the rose plantations. The flower industry is Ecuadorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s fourthlargest export. Renowed in Cayambe are the home-made cheese and bizcochos (buttery biscuits). Further north is the province of Imbabura (see map on next page). A visit to Ecuador is never complete with out at least a few days spent here, at the province of lakes and mountains, of inspiring landscapes and folklore. This province is only 50 miles North of Quito on the PanAmerican Highway.

ATTRACTIONS IN IMBABURA SAN PABLO LAKE This is the largest lake in the province. Indigenous people fish 60

early in the morning in their straw canoes, and also bathe and wash their clothes in this lake during the day. Inns, farms and restaurants where you can spend a weekend or just a day full of entertainment surround the lake. You can also take a boat ride around the lake, or enjoy other water sports such as sailing, water skiing, jet ski, etc.

OTAVALO INDIGENOUS MARKET Otavalo is a small city of about 50,000 inhabitants. It lies at 8,300 ft above sea level in a spring-like valley, situated between the Imbabura volcano (15,118 feet) and the Cotacachi volcano (16,200 feet). The most famous indigenous market in Ecuador is held here. Although the market is bigger on Saturdays, you can visit it any day and find an impressive variety of all kinds of

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NORTHERN ANDES

Tumbabiro

LEGENDS

Gas station Sightseeing Airport Archaeology Handicrafts Typical food Thermal Springs Capital of Province Cities / towns Pan- American Highway Secondary road

TOURIST SITES . LODGING

Mojanda Lake

Cotacachi Leather Market

Hacienda Cusín

Peguche Waterfalls

Hostería Puerto Lago

Hostería Hacienda Pinsaquí

San Pablo lake

Hostería La Mirage

Hacienda Zuleta

Hacienda La Merced Baja

Otavalo Indigenous Market

Yaguarcocha Lake

Cuicocha lake

Hacienda La Compañía

San Antonio de Ibarra (carved wood handicrafts)

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Ecuadorian handicrafts. At dawn you may see indigenous people arriving the market place from many mountain trails surrounding the city. They come from nearby villages and towns such as Peguche, Agato and Iluman, to sell their products. One may visit the workshops of these local weavers working on back strap and Spanish treadle looms, as well as other artisans at work making felt hats, knitting sweaters or weaving straw mats.

COTACACHI VILLAGE This village is known for its leatherwork. You can find an excellent choice of jackets, skirts, boots, briefcases, bags, riding equipment and wallets. Cotacachi is home to the only high school in Ecuador that teaches leather work. They specialize in shoes, however, teach the students to make all leather products.

CUICOCHA LAKE The crater lake has an impressive landscape of deep blue waters surrounded by hills. Take a hike around the lake (4 to 5 hours). If you are lucky, you will see a condor.

CONDOR PARK Just 3 miles away from Otavalo, the Condor Park was laid out. This thirtyacre park is managed by a foundation dedicated to the care and rescue of predatory birds such as hawks and eagles, vultures and owls. This park is unique in many ways. It is located on a hill known as the “Pukara Alto”, an energetic center since pre-Columbian times, where ruins remain of a religious pre-Inca

temple. The sights are amazing, 360 degrees around of mountains, lake, valleys and towns. Large cages are distributed along a cobblestone walk through the park to admire a variety of birds such as the Barred Hawk, the King Vulture, the Greater Red-Headed Vulture, the Spectacled Owl, the Arctic Owl, the Mottled Owl, among others. Finally, you will run into the large cage of the impressive Andean Condor (Vultur gryphus) at an endangered status however easily bred in captivity. Open from Tuesday thru Sunday from 9h30 to 17h00. Admission fee: $3,50 for adults, $1,75 children and senior citizens. Phone: 06-2924429 condor@accessinter.net www.parquecondor.org

SAN ANTONIO Shortly before entering Ibarra, a right-hand turn leads into San Antonio, the home of expert wood carvers. As you visit the various shops, you will marvel at their talent. Visitors can watch some of the craftsmen at work in their studios.

IBARRA CITY This clean, freshly painted colonial city, capital of the province, is also known as the white city. It lies at 7,000 ft, and has a population of approximately 110,000. Ibarra enjoys one of the best climates of the Sierra. Typical products include arrope de mora (blackberry syrup) and nogadas (a sweet made with walnuts). Don’t miss the delicious “paila” ice creams (whipped natural fruit).

YAGUARCOCHA LAKE This lake is only a short distance from the center of Ibarra. Its name means “blood lake”. Years ago, a bloody battle among Indigenous peoples took place at this lake, thus the name. Now Yaguarcocha is home to an auto racetrack. Every so often international car racing events take place here.

ATTRACTIONS IN CARCHI Carchi is the northernmost province of the Ecuadorian sierra. The Province borders with Colombia.

EL ANGEL ECOLOGICAL RESERVE The 15,715 hectares of this Ecological Reserve lie at 11,950 to 15,640 ft. The paramo in El Angel is covered by gigantic “Frailejones” (Espeletia pycnophylla), a plant specie that is only found in the high paramo ecosystem. Another plant species in the reserve are the Polylepis trees, which have many layers covering their trunks for insulation. Given that the layers of these trunks are thin and can be torn like paper, they are locally known as “arboles de papel” (paper trees). El Angel is considered a water sponge as the area provides water for the entire province. Several rivers have their origin at El Angel and join together to form the basin of the Mira and El Angel Rivers. Beautiful lagoons are also found at this Reserve. Photos by: Ministerio de Turismo & Gustavo Vallejo.

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PREMIUM SERVICES - NORTHERN ANDES

Gourmet Restaurant

LA MIRAGE - EL COLIBRI Superb National and International Cuisine

Reservations: (593-6) 2915-237 / 2915 -077 Cotacachi-Ecuador

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THIS MONTH’S RECOMMENDED

ANAHI BOUTIQUE HOTEL: Unique, Stylish and Distinctively Ecuadorian At Anahí, a new unique lodging option in Quito, each suite is a world of its own. Each has its topic, all related to Ecuador: the sixteen rooms are a genuine work of art! Ethnic fabrics and stylish art pieces combine with first class facilities and state of the art technology. 64

The rooms’ topics are divided into: history, regions and richness of Ecuador. The historical rooms include the Inca, Hacienda and Colonial. Each one has been carefully designed to transport visitors to that period of time. Take the Inca, for example… The stones used in the construction were sculpted to fit together exactly by repeatedly lowering a rock onto another and carving away any sections on the lower rock where the dust was compressed. It transports you to an Inca temple while featuring modern facilities. As per the regions, the Amazonas Room definitely stands out. Spacious and clear, with paintings of exuberant tropical flora on the walls,

beautiful furniture that also refer to the rainforest’s flora, and a stunning bathroom designed by the famous Ecuadorian artist and ceramist Eduardo Vega. The suites belonging to the “richness of Ecuador” section use an array of Ecuadorian materials that tell of the country’s amazing diversity, and combine Ecuadorian artists’ talent with designers’ creativity in order to create unique ambiances: Bambú, Totora, Cerámica, Pop, Metal Fusion, Etnos, Mimbre and Vitro Fusion Rooms. Each is amazingly artistic! Furthermore, Anahí is at a great location in Quito. Still part of La

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Mariscal neighborhood, but away from the busy nightlife, it is within walking distance to the financial and commercial centre of the city as well as Quito’s best restaurants. Its centric location is not far from the colonial centre of the city either. Although the feel is that of a bed & breakfast, Anahí has a restaurant, a cava and a complete spa that offers wonderful treatments such as Thai Reflexology, Bodywork Ayurveda, Deep Tissue Massage, and many more. Yet the personalized service and homey feeling prevails. Anahí is a wonderful retreat from Quito’s busy traffic and every day life. Anahí is located in a restored antique house and in a tranquil private spot that boasts style. Moreover, its upper terrace has a wonderful view of the city and surrounding volcanoes. Anahí is not only a hotel but a stylish experience of Ecuador’s diversity and richness. Useful information: Address: Tamayo 687 & Wilson Telefax: 593-2-2900323 / 593-2-2501421 E-mail: info@anahihotelquito.com www.anahihotelquito.com

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INDEPENDENCE SQUARE

First World Cultural Heritage Site Photos courtesy of: Quito Tourism www.quito.com.ec

Besides its amazing landscapes, Quito is known for its treasures of colonial churches, paintings, sculptures and carvings. The Spanish Colonial Period extends from the XVI to the XVIII Century. Ecuadorian colonial art combines the European Renaissance and Baroque styles with the indigenous and mestizo influences. With the arrival of the Spaniards, the Roman Catholic Church became the center of religious instruction and the largest patron of the arts. As part of the acculturation of the indigenous people, the Spanish established painting and sculpture

schools where Spanish artists trained the indigenous population in the arts. As a result, the Quitenian School (Escuela Quiteña) became famous in Latin America for its talented artists, including Bernardo de Legarda and the indigenous artists Caspicara and Pampite. Miguel de Santiago, Javier de Goribar, Manuel Sama-niego and Padre Bedón were othe outstanding representatives of this art school. Scholars consider their contributions to colonial art as some of the most valuable in America. Thus, the UNESCO declared Quito a "World Cultural Heritage Site" in 1978. However, the history of Quito stretches far beyond the arrival of the Spaniards. Before the Spanish Sebastian de Benalcázar conquered the city in 1534, the Incas conquered it in the XV century. At the time when the Incas came, they found an organized civilization: the Shyris. Furthermore, recent discoveries have uncovered archeological sites

that date back to 1500 BC. These archeological remains are aligned with the summer solstice and the winter equinox, demonstrating that the native people had an impressive knowledge of the course of the sun. These cultures are believed to have migrated from the Ecuadorian Coast. Quitsa-to, the original name of the city, means "middle of the Earth" in the ancient ‘tsafiqui’ language. Quito is the only site on the planet where the Equator crosses over highlands. On the rest of the Earth’s surface, it crosses through jungle or ocean. Therefore, the pre-Inca cultures could develop their astronomical knowledge aided by the clear landmarks surrounding the city: the Pichincha volcano (15,000 ft) to the West, the Antisana (18,700ft) to the east, and the peak of the snow-caped Cayambe (18,725 ft) to the Northeast, almost precisely on the Equator. The city itself emerges over 9,184 ft above sea level; it is the second highest

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ues by Caspicara are of neoclassical style. A museum that displays the clothes used by the priests on the XVII century ("casullas"), choral books and silver pieces of the church is open Monday thru Saturday from 9h30 to 16h00. Guided tour is $1.50 for adults and $1 for children. Phone: 257 0371.

capital in the world. Thus, Quito could be considered the best natural astronomical observatory. Quito extends along the Eastern side of the Pichincha volcano. The city is long and thin, with a length of aprox. 22 miles and a width of 2-3 miles. The temperature in the city varies along the day… in the early morning and at night it can be at 10ºC, and at noon it can reach up to 25ºC. The geographical conditions of the zone give place to a number of ecosystems, thus, Quito’s surroundings offer a diversity of landscapes, each with unique flora and fauna.

CENTRO CULTURAL METROPOLITANO

LA COMPAÑIA

SIGHTSEEING We suggest that you to begin your sightseeing at "La Plaza de la Independencia", from where you can walk to most of the downtown sites. This main plaza is surrounded by four buildings that represent the four ruling powers of the colonial period: the Government Palace on the West, the Municipal Palace on the East, the Archbishop’s Palace on the north, and the Cathedral on the south.

THE GOVERNMENT’S PALACE It is not possible to visit the interiors of the palace, however, from the entrance door one is able to appreciate the Andalusian patios that have half-point arches and water fountains

in the center. You can see a scale model of the Independence Square exposed at the entrance to the Palace.

THE CATHEDRAL This church holds an interesting collection of sculptures and paintings from the Escuela Quiteña. Among the most important is the "Descending of Christ" by Caspicara. It is a masterpiece of expressionism. As in most Ecuadorian and Latin American churches, many styles are used in the construction of the Cathedral: late Gothic in the arches, Moorish in the ceilings and Baroque in the main altar. The choir, the stone Episcopal chair, the central painting by Manuel Samaniego and the stat-

The cultural centre is located on the corner of the Main Square, next to the Government’s Palace. The Jesuits originally constructed this building in the XVII Century. In 1767, when Charles III of Spain banished the Jesuit Order from the colonized territories, the buildings became a public University. On the last decade of the XVIII century, the buildings became the army headquarters of the Spanish Royal troops sent from Lima to repress the early independence efforts. Thus, the building was known as the "Royal Barrack of Lima". In this building, the heroic efforts for independence ended up in a massacre of a number of patriots from Quito on August 2, 1810. The Alberto Mena Caamaño Museum displays this massacre with real size wax sculptures, as well as other important scenes of Quito’s history. The Cultural Center also holds a museum of colonial art as well and the Municipal Library. There is also a Contemporary Art exhibit room, which houses temporary exhibitions. Open Tuesday thru Sunday from 9h00 to 17h00. Admission fee to the museum is $1.50; students and senior citizens $0.75; children $0.50. Phone: 295-7062.

EL SAGRARIO

SAN JUAN VIEWPOINT

This church was originally the main chapel of the Cathedral, built for the cult of the Holy Sacrament. It has been kept for this service until these days. The stone facade with its ornamented Salomon columns is an excellent frame for a high Baroque that leaves practically no space without ornamentation. This style is typical of Bernardo 67

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SAN FRANCISCO

de Legarda’s sculpture. It is located next to the Cathedral. Visiting hours: Mon–Fri: 9h-17h00, Sat: 07h-20h00, Sun 07h-13h00. Admission is free. For more information, call 228 4398.

SAN FRANCISCO CHURCH AND PLAZA This complex gave the capital of Ecuador its proper name: San Francisco de Quito. It is the oldest in Quito, built in 1536-1580. San Francisco is the biggest religious architectonic complex in America, with over 8,670 acres, including the convent with 6 internal patios. The atrium running along one side of the plaza is opened in the middle to give way to a beautiful staircase. The facade has a style similar to that of the Escorial in Spain. The inside is Baroque style. The coffer ceiling in the narthex has rich Moorish style ornamentation with paintings by Miguel de Santiago. It is interesting to note among the ornate details images of the sun god, the Inca divinity. The main altar holds the original masterpiece by Legarda: "La Virgen de 68

Quito"(Quito’s Virgin). This sculpture is the only winged image of Virgin Mary in colonial art. The San Francisco Plaza was an antique "Tianguez", which means ‘market’ in the native Nahuatl language. During Pre-Columbian times, Plaza San Francisco was a lively commercial center, hosting approximately ten ethnic dominations from the neighboring valleys. San Francisco is located between Sucre and Bolívar Streets. Church visiting hours: Friday thru Sunday 17h0018h00. Free admission. Phone: 2959911.

CANTUÑA CHAPEL Located at one side of the San Francisco atrium. The Calvary woodcarvings on the main altar are some of Legarda’s most outstanding masterpieces. A legend of the chapel says that Francisco Cantuña (the indigenous man that paved the atrium with arge stone blocks) constructed the chapel with the treasures saved from the Kingdom of Quito. Visiting hours: Tuesday thru

Thursday 8h00 - 17h00. Free admission. Phone: 2281124.

SAN FRANCISCO MUSEUM Located next to the church at the San Francisco Square. The zaguan (entrance hall), the main cloister, the renaissance stairway, the chorus and the exposition lounge are now the site of a number of selected works of the Franciscan collection. You can find works of Andrés Sánchez Galque (of indigenous origin), Miguel de Santiago, Mateo Mexía, the European authors Zurbarán and Bernardo de Bitti, or their respective schools, among others of the XVI-XVIII centuries. Among the sculptures, you can find the glass eyes characteristic of the XVIII century. You will also find pieces of furniture of the XVIII century. The museum is called Fray Pedro Gocial in honor to the first painting instructor. Open Monday thru Saturday 09h00 to 17h00, Sunday 9h00 to 12h00. Admission fee: $ 2 adults, $1 children. Phone: 228 1124.

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MUSEUM OF COLONIAL ART After half a decade of refurbishment, one of Quito’s oldest and most emblematic museums reopened at the end of April 2010. The Museum of Colonial Art houses a fantastic collection of works from the 16th to 19th centuries, ranking among the most important in the country. The museum is housed within a beautiful colonial mansion, which dates back to the late 16th century. Located at the corner of Cuenca and Mejía St. Open Tuesday to Friday 9h-17h00, Sat 10h-14h00. Phone: 2282-297. Admission fee: $2 foreigners; $1 Ecuadorians; $0.50 students under 18. CASA DEL ALABADO MUSEUM OF PRE-COLOMBIAN ART This private museum is housed within a colonial mansion in the Old Town. It would be worth visiting just to admire the incredible restoration and regeneration work. It acquired its name from the inscription on the lintel of the front door, which carries an ‘alabado’ or prayer to the house, and states that it was built in 1671 – making it one of the oldest surviving edifications in the capital and in the country. The museum is divided into several spaces and is not ordered chrono-

logically, but rather by themes that focus on pre-Colombian Man’s concept of the cosmos. It’s a true museum-journey through the ancient spiritual past of the country: stimulating, challenging and surprising. Located at Cuenca St. 335 between Bolívar and Rocafuerte. Open Tuesday to Saturday 9h30-17h30 Sunday: 10h00 to 16h00. Phone: 228 0940. Admission fee: $4. Free for children 6- 12 www.precolombino.com

LA COMPAÑÍA DE JESÚS CHURCH This is one of the richest churches in America. The extraordinary facade can be described as a lacework on stone. Six Salomonic columns in the lower part support a second body of different widths, reminiscent of the Church of Gesu in Rome. The columns are a copy of those by Bernini in the Vatican. The splendor that meets your eye as you go into the church is unforgettable: the vaulted ceiling and the walls with beautiful Moorish ornamentation, the perfect harmony and the richness of the main altar, the reproduction of the Salomon columns of the facade, the incredible clustered Baroque on the tribunes on both sides of the main altar, in the pulpit, and in the

lateral chapels. Everything is covered with gold leaf. It is a magnificent exhibit of foliage, vines, fruits, birds and caryatids. The Holy Trinity in the main altar and the images of Saint Francis and Saint Ignatius in the side altars are works of the famous Legarda. Paintings of the prophets and works of Goribar are hung in the majestic archery that divides the aisles. It is located at Benalcazar St. Open Monday thru Friday 09h30 to 17h30, Saturdays and holidays 09h30 to 16h30, Sundays 13h30 to 16h30. Phone: 2581895. Admission fee is US$ 2, and includes guide service.

MARÍA AUGUSTA URRUTIA MUSEUM Located at García Moreno 760. Follow along the life and activities of a wealthy and very generous woman of Quito’s early XXth century. Observe the architecture of a typical house in colonial Quito. Enjoy the beautifully decorated interiors (especially the French antiques), and the distinctive clothing and artifacts of the time. Open Tuesdays to Fridays from 10h00 to 18h00, weekends 9h30 to 17h30. Admission fee: $2 for adults, $1 senior citizens and $0.50 children (includes a guided tour). For more information call: 258-0103.

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LA RONDA STREET

LA RONDA ST.

A stroll through La Ronda is a great way to get a feeling of traditional life in colonial Quito. Within only two blocks, one finds artisans working on traditional handicrafts such as candles and embroidery, many “tiendas” (small stores), bakeries and typical food restaurants. Moreover, a variety of cultural activities are organized both on the street and inside the different bars and cafeterias. During the late XIX and early XX Centuries, La Ronda Street was home to several musicians, poets, historians and other important figures of Quito’s history. This neighborhood inspired poetry and some of the most romantic “Pasillos” (typical music).

MUSEO DE LA CIUDAD Located at García Moreno 572 and Roca-fuerte, this museum opens Tuesday thru Sunday from 9h30 to 17h30. Follow Quito’s everyday life through the centuries in the beautiful colonial building that once was the San Juan de Dios Hospital (1565). Entrance fee: $3 adults, $2 students, $1 children and senior citizens. Nighttime tours with theatrical representations upon request. Price: $15 per person (includes a cocktail). Phone: 228 3882/3.

BENALCAZAR HOUSE-MUSEUM This museum displays paintings of the XVII century and sculptures of the XVII and XIII century. It is located at Olmedo and Benalcazar St. Open Monday thru to Friday 09h30 to 13h00 and 15h30 to 19h00.

SAN AGUSTIN CHURCH Located at the corner of Chile and Guayaquil Streets. The construction of this church was finished in 1538

and has been remodeled due to earthquake damage. The vault underneath the chorus, the wood carved columns, and the gilded altars are the only remains of the original construction.

SAN AGUSTIN CONVENT The first thing to admire here are the beautiful cloisters in three different levels, the fountain in the colonial patio carved from a single block of stone, the coffer ceiling in the lower cloister, and the huge collection of paintings by the artist Miguel de Santiago. The artist spent most of his life working in the convent to finish the task of painting the scenes of St. Augustine’s life.Open Monday thru Friday 09h00-12h30 and 14h30-17h00/ Saturday 9h00 to 13h00. Admission is $1, children and senior citizens $0.50. Phone: 295 5525.

SALA CAPITULAR In this same convent you will find one of the most important historical sites in Spanish America. The first Act of Independence was signed here on August 10th, 1809. The Calvary masterpiece by a Quitenian artist named Olmos from the XVII century is located to the right of this large room. Entrance fee: US$ 1.

JUNÍN STREET This charming street is in the downtown colonial district of Quito. Colorful houses and decorated balconies together with a peaceful atmosphere, generate a place worth visiting. Along the street you can visit: Manuela Saenz Museum, the Ecuadorian Architecture Museum, the National Watercolour Museum, the XVIth Century San Marcos Church, Engravers from the Quitenian School of Art, and a famous guitar factory.

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One can admire a stone-carved pagan god, Neptune. Also noticeable are

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Bernardo Legarda’s main altar woodcarvings and an image of great beauty of Our Lady of Mercy in stone. Visiting hours: Monday thru Saturday from 7h00-12h00 and 14h30-17h30. Free admission. Phone: 2280743.

CAMILO EGAS MUSEUM This museum was created to honor one of the most celebrated Ecuadorian artists of the XXth century. It holds a permanent exhibit of a collection of Camilo Egas’ paintings, in a display that allows one to learn about the different phases in which the artist worked (indigenism, expressionism, surrealism, cubism and abstraction of the shape) in a didactical and hands-on manner. Address: Venezuela 1302 and Esmeraldas. Open: Thursday - Friday 9h-16h00/weekends and holidays10h-16h00. Price: $0.25 including guide service.Phone: 257-2012

CASA SAN LUCAS This antique manor that dates back to the seventeenth century offers an art gallery with itinerary exhibits, a cafe/ bar, a musical room with a large screen where visitors can enjoy musical videos, among others. Visitors can take a tour through all the house, appreciating antique furniture, silverware and pieces of art. Open Tuesday – Friday 11h00 18h00, weekends 10h30- 19h00. Address: Venezuela 1283 and Esmeraldas. Phone:2950923

in Quito. "Panecillo" means "little bread" referring to its peculiar size and shape. The Virgin that stands on the hill, which consists of 7,000 pieces of aluminum, is a modern representation of the famous "Virgen de Quito", the unique winged dancing Virgin conceived by Bernardo Legarda in the XVIIth century. (The original masterpiece can be seen at the main altar of the San Francisco Church). There is a balcony in the upper part that provides a beautiful view of the city. Open Moday thru Thursday 9h-17h00, Friday thru Sunday 9h- 21h00. The entrance fee to the interior of the monument is $1 for adults, $050 for children.

INTERESTING PLACES IN THE NORTH OF QUITO TELEFERIQO Quito’s TeleferiQo (cable cars) is located on Cruz Loma, one of the hills on the slopes of the active Pichincha volcano (15,000 ft). The cable cars take off at 9,680 ft and reach 13,287 ft in 8 – 10 min! On the

way up you can observe how the vegetation changes rapidly with the increasing altitude. If you are lucky enough to get one of those clear summer days, you can see the city at your feet and the cordillera in its splendor! When reaching the top, make sure to take it easy because of the altitude! A great idea is to drink a hot “te de coca” (coca tea) or get some oxygen at the oxygen bar. Anyway, make sure to rest before hiking, horseback riding, or any other of the exciting options you have on top. If you are adventurous, you can reach the summit of the “Rucu Pichincha”. The cost of the cable car is $8.50 roundtrip. Open Monday thru Sunday from 8h00 to 20h00. At the foot of TeleferiQo you can enjoy VulQano Park, offering carts, roller coasters and other exciting games for children of all ages. Phone: 2221996 / 2221320

GUÁPULO CHURCH This sanctuary is located in a little village 1.5 miles heading down from the Hotel Quito. The sanctuary can be reached by car in about 10 minutes or you can walk down a colonial

SAN DIEGO CONVENT The Saint Francis congregation built this church to provide the priests and laymen with a place of retreat. Along the corridors are paintings dating back to the XVII C, which had been co-vered with lime for years and are now being restored. A genuine manifestation of syncretism! Open every day 09h30-13h00 and 14h30-17h30. Phone: 295 2516. Admission fee: $2.00.

EL PANECILLO Many historical happenings took place on this natural hill that stands

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EL EJIDO PARK It is located at the intersection of Patria and Amazonas Avenues. If you like contemporary art, this is the place to be on weekends. A walk in the park will bring you face to face with beautiful paintings and other handicrafts. You may bargain with the artists to get reasonable prices.

ANHALZER-VALDIVIESO COLLECTION The showrooms of the AnhalzerValdivieso Collection offer visitors an image of the splendor of ancient Ecuador, with a selected presentation of archeology, popular and colonial art. Open Monday thru Friday from 9h00 to 19h00. Saturday from 10h00 to 18h00. Address: Colón Ave. E10-53. Phone: 25-41315.

QUITO BOTANICAL GARDEN GALERIA ECUADOR GOURMET

stone paved path which was the route followed by Francisco de Orellana on his trip to his discovery of the Amazon River. The facade and the dome of the church have a simple neoclassic style. The main altar painted by Miguel de Santiago and the image of our Lady of Guadalupe by Diego de Robles are original masterpieces. Many consider the pulpit carved by the Indigenous Sculptor Menacho as the most beautiful in America. Open Monday thru Saturday 09h00 to 12h30 and 15h00 to 18h00. Phone: 256 5652. Entrance fee: US$1.50.

MODERN ART AND MUSICAL INSTRUMENTS MUSEUM

This museum is located at the “Casa de la Cultura” on 6 de Diciembre and Patria Avenues. Pre-Colonial, Colonial and contemporary Art appear in 1,417 pieces exhibited permanently and in temporary displays. It also presents an opportunity to learn about the origin, evolution and history of Ecuador.

As you enter the museum, you first encounter an important collection of Ecuadorian paintings of the XIX Century with a variety of themes: religious, portraits, landscapes, among others. Continuing the visit, you find important works of art by some of the most renowned Ecuadorian artists: Oswaldo Guayasamín, Eduardo Kingman, and Camilo Egas, among others. Following is the Musical Instruments Museum. Many of the displayed instruments date to pre-Columbian times. Next to this exhibit you find an important Ethnographic Display of different indigenous communities of the Ecuadorian Andes. Address: Los Espejos Bldg, located between: 6 de Diciembre, 12 de Octubre and Patria Avenues. There is an entrance at each of the avenues.

Visiting hours: Tuesday thru Friday 09h00 to16h00/ weekends and holidays 10h00 to15h00. Admission

Open Tuesday thru Friday from 9h00 to 13h00 and from 14h00 to 17h00 / Saturdays from 10h00 to 14h00.

CENTRAL BANK MUSEUM

fee: $2. Guide service available. Phone: 222-3258.

Explore the fascinating world of plants! This garden displays more than 1,200 orchid species, along with other unique flora species of Ecuador! It is located at Rumipamba St. inside “La Carolina” Park. Open Monday thru Friday from 8h00 to 17h00. Weekends 9h00 to 17h00. Admission fee: $3.50 adults, $2 children.

LA MARISCAL “La Mariscal” can be considered the entertainment district of Quito, where you find a variety of restaurants, bars, cafes, internet cafes, Spanish schools, and a large range of hosting options. This area is highlighted in the Quito map in a red square, and pages 88-91 hold a guide of premium services in La Mariscal. Plaza El Quinde (Reina Victoria and Foch) is one of the most popular meeting points for both Ecuadorians and tourists. Every Wednesday night at 20h30 live music presentations take place at this charming Plaza.

GALERIA ECUADOR GOURMET This unique Galeria holds exclusive quality products 100% made in Ecuador. It has two floors divided in 11 showrooms, each with its topic:

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coffee & chocolate, liquor & cigars, delicatessen, seafood, diary products, handicrafts, jewelry, books, music & video, fashion, ceramics. Visitors are invited to savor Ecuador’s most exquisite products… A journey through the finest tastes, smells and textures of this wonderfully diverse country! It also includes a cafeteria. Address: Reina Victoria N24-263 & Lizardo Garcia. Phone: 2239469 / 2258440. E-mail: info@galeriaecuador.com www.galeriaecuador.com

MERCADO ARTESANAL This typical handicraft market offers a variety of handicrafts from all over the country for excellent prices, displayed in more than 100 colorful stands. If you are not able to visit the Otavalo indigenous market at the Imbabura province, this market in Quito is a must. It is located at Jorge Washington St. between Reina Victoria and Juan Leon Mera St. Open every day from 10h00 to 19h00.

MINDALAE- ETHNO-HISTORIC MUSEUM OF HANDICRAFTS “Mindalae” is the pre Hispanic name of the indigenous tradesman who, with his basket tied to his back, walked long distances carrying merchandise to offer at the popular market called “tianguez”. The second floor of the museum holds and exhibit of utensils from Amazonian cultures. At this same floor there are also handicrafts for sale. The third floor presents a display of the origins of the natural fibers used in textiles, such as seeds and wood from native trees. Finally, at the fourth floor, the museum holds a demonstration of the indigenous skills in textile production. Open Monday thru Saturday from 9h30 to 17h30. Sundays from 10h30 to 16h30. Located at the corner of Reina Victoria and La Niña St. Admission fee: $3 general, $1.50 students and senior citizens.

ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITES RUMIPAMBA ARCHAEOLOGICAL AND ECOLOGICAL PARK The most antique stone walls found in Quito are those of Rumipamba Park, a 32- hectare complex located in a former private hacienda, now in the heart of the city of Quito. The walls date back to 400 AD. Rumi means stone and pamba, pampas or plains. Rumipamba has some huge stones from the last important eruption of the nearby Guagua Pichincha volcano, which took place in 1660. The Rumipamba site includes a gully that has become a niche for flora and fauna, especially birds. Several flora species including trees, medicinal plants, fruits and others, are found inside the park. It also includes a “culunco”, which is an antique road connecting the highlands with the coast for the commercialization of products. These roads date back to the Yumbo culture, a pre- Incan civilization that inhabited the cloud forests surrounding Quito. Address: between Occidental, América and Mariana de Jesús Avenues (North West) Open: Wednesdays thru Sundays from 9h - 16h00. Free admission.

LA FLORIDA BURIAL CHAMBERS La Florida Burial Chambers date back to 220 – 640 AD, belonging to

the Quitus culture. The site- museum is located in the middle of the city, in a small piece of land (800m) that used to be part of a large hacienda, with a wonderful view of the city of Quito; on a clear day it is possible to see the Cayambe volcano. To this day, the FONSAL has excavated 10 burial chambers which are 15- 17 meters (49– 56 ft) deep and have 2 meters (6.5 ft) of diameter. Large amounts of amazing ceramics, spondylus and other shells, jewelry, wooden objects and gold were found in the chambers alongside hundreds of bodies. The funeral architecture reflects the cosmovision of the Quitus: the human bodies were given back to Mother Earth’s womb. In order to present the archaeological findings in a didactic manner, the FONSAL has done a great job reproducing one of the burial chambers with 16 bodies and the respective ritual objects. The replica of the faces was done by experts through a systematic reproduction based on the skulls called “forensic medicine”. Moreover, the FONSAL has placed a “robot” that reproduces images from the original walls of one of the burial chambers on a screen so that visitors can closely admire the traces of the original structure of the chambers. The complex includes a small museum that exhibits original objects found in the burial chambers. Some

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MONUMENT ON THE EQUATOR

of the most impressive pieces are the spondylus ponchos, which were worn by only a few of the buried bodies of hierarchical importance. Address: Calle Antonio Costa, between Román and Fernando Corral St., at the San Vicente de La Florida neighborhood in Northern Quito. Open: Wednesdays thru Sundays from 9h- 16h00. Free admission.

SURROUNDINGS THE MONUMENT ON THE EQUATOR It is located approximately 20 minutes away from Quito, at San Antonio de Pichincha. The “Mitad del Mundo City” surrounding the monument includes several restaurants and folklore shops, museums about the missions that measured the Earth, the "Solar Culture Museum" (with a display of the latest investigations about the real middle of the world), and a Planetarium. Inside the monument is an interesting Ethnic Museum. You can shop and place one foot on the northern Hemisphere and the other on the southern Hemisphere. Entrance fee to the “Middle of the World City” is $3.00, to the Ethnic Museum $3.00, to the Planetarium $1.50. Visiting hours: Monday thru Thursday 09h00-18h00, Friday, Saturday and Sunday 09h00-19h00.

Chillos. Little more than a decade ago, these valleys consisted mostly of open pastures and country cottages. Now they offer all the commodities of a modern city: supermarkets, malls, schools, universities, hospitals, restaurants, good lodging and even movie theaters, but fortunately they have maintained their rustic charm and decidedly slower pace than Quito. Only a few kilometers from the bustling city, but several hundred meters below, the valleys provide warmer weather and a relaxed rural feeling, preferred by young families and many foreigners who live and work in Quito. TULIPE ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE-MUSEUM Tulipe was built by the Yumbo people, who inhabited the north and northwestern valleys and mountains around Quito from around 800 to 1660 AD. It’s thought that the Yumbo

people migrated to the Amazon after a great eruption of the Pichincha Volcano in 1660, and this theory is currently being investigated. Although disregarded by the Spanish chroniclers and subsequent historians, the site at Tulipe, as well as the 2,000 pyramids and mounds now unearthed, point to an important nation. It’s thought that it controlled this crucial trade route between the Pacific coast, the Andes and the Amazon to the east. The remains at Tulipe suggests it was the civilisation’s main ceremonial site. It is made up of eight structures, one of which one is of Incan construction, since the conquering Incas built their temple on top of the existing one. Water played a primordial role at Tulipe, with many pools reflecting its ceremonial importance. The “Yumbo People Interpretation Centre” houses didactic information on the site and the Yumbos, and is the starting point for future investigations. Open Wednesdays thru Sundays from 09h00 to 16h00. Located between the towns of Nanegalito and Gualea, on the main road Calacali-La Independencia, which heads northwest from Quito. Take the sign-posted road on the right soon after the small town of Nanegalito. Phone: 285-0635. Admission fee: $2 adults, $1 children and students.

SURROUNDING VALLEYS The mountains and cliffs surrounding Quito make it difficult for the city to spread out to the sides, thus, it has expanded to the surrounding valleys: Cumbaya, Tumbaco and Los 74

TULIPE

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GUAYASAMÍN MUSEUM AND "LA CAPILLA DEL HOMBRE" A stop at Guayasamin’s house-museum is a must for any visitor to Quito. This museum exhibits an excellent sample of pre-Columbian, colonial and contemporary art from the private collections of the famous Ecuadorian artist Oswaldo Guayasamín (1919-1999). Shortly before his death, Oswaldo Guayasamín donated these collections and his works to the city of Quito. The museum is open Monday thru Friday from 10h00 to 17h00. Entrance fee: $3.00 adults. Close to the house-museum, is "La Capilla del Hombre" (Man’s Chapel). Guayasamín dreamed that his chapel would pay tribute to the American preColumbian man, who has quietly kept 500 years of resistance and still struggles to recover his values. The artist started the construction of this Chapel in 1995, but unfortunately he died before his masterpiece was finished. With the effort of his heirs, through the Guayasamín Foundation, the artist’s dream has come alive. The Chapel itself occupies about 4.000 meters of construction. It is a rectangular construction of two floors, with a strong similarity to Incan temples. Part of the roof is a dome covered with copper plate. On its inside it is covered with an unfinished mural of the artist, which was left intact. The altar of the Chapel holds an eternal flame in defense of peace and human rights. Open Tuesday thru Sunday from 10h00 to 17h00. Entrance fee: $4.00 adults, $2.00 senior citizens. Address: Museum: José Bosmediano St. NE15.68, Bellavista. Phone: (593-2) 244-6455 Capilla del Hombre: Mariano Calvache y Lorenzo Chavez Phone: (5932) 2448 492 email: guayasam@uio.satnet.net 75

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2 de Agosto de 1810

Celebrating Freedom: Bicentenary of the Quito Revolution More than two hundred years have gone by since the “First Cry for Independence” took place in Quito. On August 10th, 1809, a group of 76

Quiteño revolutionaries organized an uprising against the Spanish authority after centuries of colonial government and repression. The group of revolutionaries included intellectuals, doctors, marquises, and creoles (European descendants born in America). This historical episode is a milestone as it was one of the pioneer movements in Latin America. It marked the beginning of a series of revolts against the Spanish crown that took place on the XVIII century and after some years of struggle, gave birth to new nations. Some of the reasons for this revolution in Quito: the increasing tension due to the separation of the political power managed by the Spanish and the commercial power manager mostly by creoles. These last were looking for the precise moment to rise up against the crown and it

arrived as Spain lived through a terrible crisis: Napoleon Bonaparte’s invasion. The group of Quiteño revolutionaries gathered the night of August 9th 1809 at Manuela Cañizares’ house, where they drafted the final version of the Revolution Act. During this meeting the Junta Soberana de Gobierno (Supreme Government Committee) was established, with Juan Pío Montúfar, Marquis of Selva Alegre, as president, and doctors Morales and Quiroga and don Juan Larrea as State Secretaries. On the morning of August 10th, 1809, Dr. Antonio Ante presented the Statement to the Conde Ruiz de Castilla. The Statement pointed out that the Junta Soberana takes over control of the territories of Quito, Guayaquil, Popayán, Pasto,

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Barbacoas and Panama, which at the moment depended of the Lima and Santa Fé Viceroyalties. From that moment onwards, the occasion is celebrated every August 10th as a national civic date. Ever since 2007 Quito’s authorities organize an event known as “La Velada Libertaria” (Liberty Eve), that starts on August 9th evening and gathers thousands of people on plazas and streets in the old town to live a cultural festival that includes: music, dance, opera, literature, and scene arts; on 2009, this celebration was even more important because of the celebration of the Bicentenary of the Quito revolution. This year, other important facts in our history are also celebrating their bicentenary: Unfortunately, the government of the Junta Soberana lasted only 77 days because of the lack of leadership and support of the other provinces. Thus, it was easy for the Spanish to

regain the power and control. Conde Ruiz de Castilla took up his position again, promising not to take reprisals against the rebels. However, he did not follow his promise. The troops arrived from Lima to Quito on November 24th, 1809 and began to stop insurgents from December 4th. On August 2nd, 1810 a group of Quiteños attempted to liberate the Patriots of August 10th, but it resulted in a terrible massacre that took place between August 2nd and 4th and left over 300 victims. One of the consequences of that oppress reaction by the colonial government in opposition to Quito’s courage, was the popular rebellion that on November 1810 rejected the new President of the Royal audience, Joaquín Molina. As a result of that negative to accept new Spanish authorities, appeared our first try as an independent republic, the constitution of State of Quito.

to 2012, an important year in history when Carlos Montúfar, Selva Alegre Marquis’s son, arrived from Spain to calm the repression ambience that still was in Quito, and created a Constituent Congress to redact the first constitution of Quito. This revolution wasn’t an isolated fact that uniquely impacts the local reality, it changed the whole LatinAmerican history. This rebellion was followed by a series of autonomist movements that started the process of independence against Spanish Authorities in the whole region. Don’t miss this year’s Liberty Eve and other celebrations regarding the Bicentenary of the Quito Revolution! For more information: www.quito.com.ec www.quitoverano.com

The Bicentenary celebrations of Quito’s revolution will go on at least

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CULTURE + ENTERTAINMENT - QUITO MUSIC Friday 13th - 20h00

Daniel Barenboim and The West- Eastern Divan Orchestra The orchestra is made up of the same number of Arab and Israeli musicians as a symbol of how culture and music can promote dialoge and mutual understanding. Place: Casa de la Música

FOLKLORIC DANCE Every Wednesday - 19h30

Jacchigua Place: Teatro Demetrio AguileraCasa de la Cultura Ecuatoriana Price: $30 Every Friday - 20h00

Saruymanda Place: CC Pasaje Arzobispal Price: $2

THEATER Thursday 5th to Saturday 7th - 20h30 Sunday 8th - 18h30

De Amor Nadie Se Muere (Nobody Dies of Love) Didactic monologue that analyzes the love topic Place: Patio de Comedias Admission fee: $10 General, $7 students, $5 seniors Thursday 12th to Sunday 29th Thursday to Saturday - 20h30 Sunday - 18h30

“Continúan las Historias de Amores Imposibles con Finales… o No” (The Stories of Impossible Loves with Endings.. or Not... Continue") Place: Patio de Comedias Admission fee: $10 General, $7 students, $5 seniors 78

EXHIBITS Wednesday to Sunday 09h00 to 16h00

Tuesdays thru Sundays 10h00- 20h00

Invento para mi Ciudad (I Invent for my City) Children 5 - 13 years old show their paintings, drawings and collages, offering their ideas to solve some problems like pollution in Quito. Place: MIC (Interactive Science Museum) Admission fee: free, (some other exhibition beside $3)

The Quito Revolution Inside the stunningly-restored former Military Hospital in the San Juan neighbourhood in the Old Town, the Bicentenary Building offers an in informative historical show, relating the important characters and events which surrounded the uprising of Quito’s citizens and the subsequent years of struggle for Independence. The exhibition invites the public to discover and learn about the history of the times through images, stages, videos, literature and interactive tools. Place: Edificio El Bicentenario Prices: Adults $2; students $1; children and senior citizens $0.50

Wednesday to Sunday 09h00 to 16h00

Todos Somos Uno (We are all one) Interactive exhibit about nature and its rights. Place: MIC (Interactive Science Museum) Admission fee: free, (some other exhibition beside $3) Open until August 29th

XPOSICION 2010 Graduated art students from the Ecuadorian Central University present their final job to get their degree Place: Centro Cultural Itchimbía. Free admission Tuesday to Sunday - 09h00 to 17h00

From Quito To Ecuador, 1700 to 1835 Celebrating the Bicentenary of the Quito Revolution and all important events in the struggle for freedom and independence. Place: Museo Alberto Mena Caamaño. (Centro Cultural Metropolitano). Admission fee: $1,50; students $0,75; seniors 0.50

www.revolucionquito.com

ADDRESSES: • Casa de la Música: Valderrama & Mariana de Jesús. Phone: 226 1965 / 226 3975 • Casa de la Cultura Ecuatoriana: 6 de Diciembre Av. & Patria Street. • CC Pasaje Arzobispal: Main Square, colonial Quito. • Patio de Comedias: 18 de Septiembre E4-26 y 9 de Octubre Phone: 256 1902 • MIC: Barrio Chimbacalle, Calle Tababela Oe1-60 & Antonio De Latorre. P: 261-7141 Ext. 122 • Centro Cultural Itchimbia: Itchimbía Park. P: 322 8407/8/9 • Centro Cultural Metropolitano: García Moreno y Espejo Phone: 258-4362 / 258-4363 • El Bicentenario Building: Luis

Dávila y Venezuela (Antiguo Hospital Militar), San Juan neighborhood

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RECOMMENDED BOOKS OF THE MONTH

The Story of the Wolf Author: Gustavo Toaquiza Cuenca, Songs of Stone and Water Author: Catalina Sojos Publisher: Trama Ediciones Ecuador & the Galapagos Islands Publisher: Lonely Planet Ecuador Infinito Publisher: Trama Ediciones Guía Viva Ecuador & Galápagos Author: Pilar Ortega Publisher: Anaya Touring Club My Dearest Ecuador Author: Patricio Hidalgo Pérez Publisher: Hojas y Signos Nariz del Diablo y Monstruo Negro Author: Karl Dieter Gartelmann Publisher: Trama Ediciones The Rough Guide to Ecuador including the Galápagos Islands Publisher: Rough Guides The High Andes of Ecuador Author: Jorge Anhalzer Publisher: J. Anhalzer 79

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IN DON PORFIRIO EVERY DETAIL HAS A SCENT OF TRADITION

lunch & dinner * private parking Orellana 1172 & Av. Amazonas Reservations: 297 2000 Ext. 6178

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Stubel Suites & Cafe is strategically located in Quito, just a few minutes from the historical down town area, as from the shopping and bank areas. We offer a homely, modern and relaxing experience to the guests that visit us either for business or pleasure. We offer an ambience of relaxation for all your most important senses from the vision, with the best view of the oriental valley, to your palate with our delicious menu of national and international cuisine in the Cafe Stubel. We invite you to enjoy our facilities and the warm service of our staff. Pasaje Stubel Nro. 1 y León Larrea Tel.: (593) 2 601 3499 • Fax : (593) 2 601 3514 E-mail: reservas@stubel-suites.com • www.stubel-suites.com

Ecuadorian Cuisine, 40 years of experience

Av. 6 de Diciembre & Germán Alemán C.C. Megamaxi • Local 106 • Phone: 2241-210 / 213 / 214

Monday-Friday: 12h00-16h00 19h00-22h00 – Live music starting at 19h30 Weekends: 12h00-16h00 12 de octubre Ave. N24-551 Phone: 223-0839 / 250-7901 / 09-9820705 email: lachoza1@uio.satnet.net www.lachozaec.com

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Portugal 440 & Francisco Casanova Reservations: 333 1943 / 333 1944 E-mail: santelmorestaurante@gmail.com www.santelmorestaurant.com 85

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Ecuadorian Cuisine, 40 years of experience

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Portugal 440 & Francisco Casanova Reservations: 333 1943 / 333 1944 E-mail: santelmorestaurante@gmail.com www.santelmorestaurant.com 85

PREMIUM HOTELS - QUITO

RESTAURANTS - QUITO

Ecuadorian Cuisine, 40 years of experience

Av. 6 de Diciembre & Germán Alemán C.C. Megamaxi • Local 106 • Phone: 2241-210 / 213 / 214

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Portugal 440 & Francisco Casanova Reservations: 333 1943 / 333 1944 E-mail: santelmorestaurante@gmail.com www.santelmorestaurant.com 85

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JosĂŠ Luis Tamayo 687 & Wilson La Mariscal, Quito, Ecuador Phone: (593-2) 25 01 421 E-mail: ecuahotel@ecuahotel.com www.ecuahotel.com www.anahihotelquito.com

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Diego de Almagro 822 & Luis Cordero | Quito - Ecuador | Tel: (593-2) 2222 400 E-mail: reservaciones@hotelsebastian.com | Webpage: www.hotelsebastian.com 89

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LA MARISCAL ENTERTAINMENT DISTRICT

GALERIA LATINA

Alpaca Clothing Silver & Stone Jewelry Wall Hangings Traditional Folk Art

ART WORKSHOP Juan León Mera N23-69 and Veintimilla Phone: + (593 2) 254 0380 & 222 1098 Fax: + (593 2) 250 4206 Whymper 777 y 6 de Diciembre (593 2) 323 8648 / (593 9) 872 5346 caro_vallejo@hotmail.com

galeria@galerialatina-quito.com www.galerialatina-quito.com QUITO – ECUADOR

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SHOPPING & FOOD - QUITO indulge your senses... exclusive handicrafts & gourmet ecuadorian cuisine GUARANTEED QUALITY AND UNIQUE DESIGNS

Amazonas Ave. N-2157 / N-2181 & Robles St. Phones: (593 2) 2906849 (593 2) 2500155 ethnic@uio.satnet.net www.ethniccollection.com Quito - Ecuador

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PREMIUM SERVICES - QUITO Dr. Reza Shapourifar DC, D.A.B.C.O. DIPLOMAT AMERICAN BOARD OF QUIROPRACTIC ORTOPEDICS SPECIALIZED IN USA Av. Gaspar de Villarroel y 6 de Diciembre Edif. Plaza 6 - 5to. Piso, Oficina 51 Telfs.: 2274 195 / 087 293 793 Metro Quito: 2555 000 • Rec.: 37834 • Quito-Ecuador

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CITY TOUR PASS (Daily- Semi private ) (5 hours) Guapulo + Plaza Grande + San Francisco Panecilo hill + Line Equator + Teleferico

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COTOPAXI or OTAVALO or MINDO or PAPALLACTA (8 Hours - Daily- Semi private)

$ 65.00

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OVER NIGHT TOURS (2 Days-Daily ) RIOBAMBA with train and Highlands BAÑOS with Cotopaxi and waterfalls OTAVALO with Ibarra and Cotacachi MINDO with Cloud Forest and Cannopy

$ 240.00

* Allways will pick you up in your hotel..!

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CENTRAL ANDES

photograph: PETE OXFORD courtesy of HACIENDA YANAHURCO

QUILINDAÑA VOLCANO - YANAHURCO

The Avenue of the Volcanoes South of Quito, the two parallel chains of the Andes that cross Ecuador from north to south rise to their most dramatic peaks. During his visit to South America in 1802, the German explorer Alexander von Humboldt (XIX C) called this section of the Ecuadorian Sierra "The Avenue of the Volcanoes". Eight of Ecuador’s ten highest summits are found in this part of the country.

COTOPAXI PROVINCE On a clear day, from Quito you can see the perfectly symmetrical cone shaped Cotopaxi (19.347 ft), the highest active volcano in the world. This snow-capped volcano and its sur94

roundings make up the Cotopaxi National Park. This park offers numerous activities for adventurers and nature lovers, all immersed in an imposing geological landscape. Although the Cotopaxi has had at least ten major eruptions since 1742, it’s been fairly quite since its last burst of activity in 1904. Today, it is Ecuador’s favorite climb. Some of the highlights in this National Park are: the Rumiñahui volcano (15600 ft), and the Limpiopungo and Santo Domingo lagoons. On both lagoons it is possible to see the reflection of the surrounding volcanoes. The Cotopaxi National Park is home to white-tailed deer, rabbits, lamas, Andean foxes and pumas, and over ninety species of birds.

Cozy hostels and beautiful traditional haciendas in the region offer comfortable lodging and numerous activities such as horseback riding, biking, trekking, and visits to typical country villages, nearby rose plantations and local markets. The Saquisili weekly market (close to Latacunga) is the one of the most exhilarating in the region. Every Thursday hundreds of indigenous people fill the streets to sell their colorful handicrafts as well as their fresh crops and livestock. Further south, taking a right from the city of Latacunga, riding through an extraordinary view of dense patchwork fields, the imposing Quilotoa crater strikes the visitors’ eye with its extraordinary turquoise water. The hike from the border of the crater (11.840ft ) to the lake at the bottom

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CENTRAL ANDES

LEGENDS

Gas station Sightseeing Airport Archaeology Handicrafts Typical food Thermal Springs Capital of Province Cities / towns Pan- American Highway Secondary road

22 23

TOURIST SITES . LODGING

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12

Hostería San Mateo Hacienda Hato Verde Hacienda Yanahurco Los Illinizas Cuello de Luna Hotel Cotopaxi National Park Cotopaxi Volcano Hacienda San Agustín de Callo Saquisilí Indigenous Market Quilotoa lake Pujilí Indigenous Market Llanganates National Park

13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24

Baños de Agua Santa Tungurahua Volcano Samari Spa Resort Luna Runtún Spa Resort Chimborazo Volcano “Estrella de Chimborazo” Mountain Lodge Hostería Abraspungo Sangay National Park Sangay Volcano Alausí Train Station Hostería La Quinta Devil’s Nose

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(7.446ft) is of approximately 30 minutes; we recommend that you hire a mule on the way back. The nearby Zumbahua town has an very interesting Saturday –morning market. Close to the town of Pujilí is the village of Tigua, where many artisans are devoted to the naive art painted on sheep hide depicting daily life scenes, legends and village fiestas against a bright background of coloured mountains and fields. These naïve paintings can be found for sale mostly all around the country, and are locally known as Tigua paintings.

TUNGURAHUA PROVINCE The town of Baños is probably the most charming tourist destination in this province. It is located at the skirts of the Tungurahua active volcano (16.500 ft). The town of Baños is a favorite spot for national and international tourists. Its pleasant sub tropical climate and its extraordinary landscape and vegetation are very welcoming. Baños is considered the gate to the Ecuadorian Amazonia, as it is nestled between the volcano and the rain forest. The city has plenty tourist information, and several agencies offer adventure sports. For years, Baños has been the place to which Ecuadorians make pilgrimages to honor "Our Lady of the Holy Water". The walls of the Basilica are covered with paintings depicting miracles that are credited to this Virgin. The town has several hostels for young adventure tourists, but the best accommodations are offered by LUNA RUNTUN, The Adventure SPA, (see page 59).

CHIMBORAZO PROVINCE

The Chimborazo is the highest Ecuadorian peak (20.702 feet), and the third highest in America. Moreover, the summit of the

Chimborazo is the furthest point from the center of the Earth, as it is crossed by the Equatorial line, where the Earth is wider. The Chimborazo is the "Colossus" of the mountains of the region, but on a clear day, other impressive snowcapped mountains can be admired: the Altar, the Carihuairazo, and the Sangay volcano. Chimborazo province has the largest concentration of indigenous population in Ecuador. These communities worshiped the Chimborazo as a god. Many of them still preserve their way of life, dress, food, and traditions. Riobamba is the capital city of the province. From here, it is possible to arrange trips to the surrounding mountains. In the city one encounters indigenous people sharing with mestizos and a minority of white

population. The Religious Art Museum "Madres Conceptas" and the Science Museum of the Maldonado School are definitely worth visiting. The history of Riobamba is marked by the fact that it is the link between the Coast and the Highlands. Riobamba's importance in the last few centuries was highly due to the presence of the train station, the main means of communication in Ecuador at the time. Today, the train is no longer an important means of transportation, but is a unique tourist attraction. From the Riobamba station, the train parts to the most impressive track of the railway through the "Avenue of the Volcanoes", which ends up at the "Nariz del Diablo" (Devil’s Nose).

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PREMIUM SERVICES - CENTRAL ANDES

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Feel at home in one of the most charming towns of Ecuador. Eloy Alfaro 121 y Paraguay • Tel: (593 3) 293 0247 E-mail: info@hosteria-la-quinta.com • Alausí - Ecuador www.hosteria-la-quinta.com

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www.thisisecuador.com cuador.com 97

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SOUTHERN ANDES

PHOTOGRAPH: FRANCISCO CAIZAPANTA - FPTE COURTESY OF MINISTRY OF TOURISM

ALAUSI

The southern sierra is made up of Cañar, Loja and Azuay Provinces. Some of the reasons for visiting these three provinces are the Inca ruins of Ingapirca, the valley of Vilcabamba and the historic district of the city of Cuenca. The Southern Sierra of Ecuador is a favorite spot for birdwatchers, especially the Cajas and Podocarpus National Parks.

CAÑAR PROVINCE Cañar is rich in history. This region was inhabited by the Cañari culture from which it took its name. Cañar boasts the most important prehispanic monument of the country, the Ingapirca Inca Vestiges. Located about an hour and 45 minutes from Cuenca, these ruins are the most 98

important architectural legacy of the Incas in Ecuador. Ingapirca means "Incas stone wall". The vast archeological complex includes a roofless fortification, courtyards, terraces, temples, houses and a “castle” possibly the “Temple to the Sun.” The entrance fee is 5 dollars.A museum is now open at the site, with both archeological and ethnographic displays as well as a scale model of the ruins. Entrance fee is US$6. An excellent option is to stay overnight at the charming Posada Ingapirca (see page 58).

founded the city in 1548 at the “Cuxibamba” valley. “Cuxibamba” is the indigenous name of the valley. Loja’s indigenous population maintains ancestral traditions and customs. The city of Loja has an important cultural community. This city nestles musicians, poets and other writers. Loja had a large affluence of scientists during the XVII – XIX century, and so it appears in old European maps as “Nambixa”.

LOJA PROVINCE

Surrounded by rivers that flow to the Amazonia or the Pacific Ocean, one finds several green valleys with warm, fresh and dry weather (64 Fahrenheit and higher).

Both the province and its capital city (Loja city) owe their name to the Spaniard Alonso de Mercadillo, who

Such is the case of the Vilcabamba. Malacatos, Quinara and Catacocha Valleys.

Phone: (07) 2827-401/ (07) 2831-120.

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SOUTHERN ANDES

LEGENDS

Gas station Sightseeing Airport Archaeology Handicrafts Typical food

TOURIST SITES . LODGING

Thermal Springs Capital of Province Cities / towns Pan- American Highway Secondary road

1 2 3 4 5 6 7

Sangay National Park Ingapirca Ruins Posada Ingapirca El Cajas National Park HosterĂa Uzhupud El Cisne Sanctuary Podocarpus National Park 99

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CUENCA

PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF VICTOR LARCO ALDAZ

A Cultural Treasure in the Andes Ecuadorians consider Cuenca the most charming city, located in a peaceful and relaxing setting. As you enter the city you can notice the outstanding skyline marked by shining church domes. Cuenca’s cobblestone streets, winding rivers, graceful ironwork balconies, and beautiful gardens are part of the pleasant atmosphere of this historical city. The UNESCO declared Cuenca a World Cultural Heritage Site on December 1999. The city was first called "Guapondelig", which in the Cañari language means "a plain as big as the 100

perched along the banks of the four different rivers that run through and around the city (Tarqui, Yanucay, Tomebamba and Machángara).

sky". The Cañaris were the indigenous group that lived in the region before the arrival of the Incas. In the last decades of the XV century, the Incas built the city of "Tumipamba" ("Tumi" meaning ridge and "pamba" meaning plain), over this Cañari settlement. This city was located along the Inca highway that joined Cusco with Quito. When the Spanish arrived, they called the city "Tomebamba". Finally, it was baptized as the city of "Santa Ana de los Cuatro Ríos de Cuenca" (Santa Ana of the Four Rivers of Cuenca). Cuenca stands 8.315 feet above sea level, it is the capital of the Azuay province and the third largest city in Ecuador.

One of the highlights are the beautiful handicrafts that can be found throughout the city, including embroidered blouses, wool sweaters, gold and silver filigree jewelry and weavings with tie-dyed patterns called ikat. Cuenca is also known for its elegant ceramic dishes and pottery. Crafts and fresh products can be found on sale at the weekly Thursday fair, or the smaller Saturday market, located at the squares titled 9 de Octubre and 10 de Agosto.

The colonial past from the days of the Spanish Empire are ever present in the artistry of the churches, convents and religious treasures. Many of the beautiful houses are found

A leading industry in Cuenca and its surrounding areas is the manufacture of straw hats. A misconception among many people is the Panama hat. Originally made in Montecristi,

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tains art, crafts and beautiful folklore pieces on temporary exhibitions. Address: 3 de Noviembre and Hermano Miguel streets. Visiting hours: Monday - Friday: 9h0013h00 and 14h30 – 18h00. Saturday 10h00-12h00.

LAS CONCEPTAS MUSEUM

PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF VICTOR LARCO ALDAZ

on the coast of Ecuador, the hats were sent north to the workers of the Panama Channel and hence the name Panama hat.

INTERESTING SITES EL BARRANCO The riverfront of the Tomebamba River is the most symbolic site of Cuenca, and serves as limit between the historical and the modern city. The Classical Republican style of the facades of the constructions that surround the river give a special personality to the city. El Barranco is a residential area, as well as a cultural district. The Pumapungo Ruins, the Central Bank and Remigio Crespo Toral Museums, the "Todos los Santos" vestiges, and other sites along this riverside offer cultural and artistic exhibits.

PUMAPUNGO VESTIGES Located at the left margin of the Barranco of the Tomebamba River. The Pumapungo ("Puma’s Door") neighborhood was the first development zone of the Inca city of Tumipamba. The architectural elements of the vestiges of this neighborhood show that it was mainly a religious, military, political and administrative center. The vestiges of Pumapungo include walls, chan-

nels, cobble stoned corridors, isolated enclosed areas, an enormous channel of 1.050 feet of length with some internal bathrooms, a mausoleum inside a tunnel, etc. All this surrounded by terraces that were used for agriculture. This archeological complex is complemented with gardens of native plants and a small display of birds of the region. It is part of the Central Bank Museum, located on Huayna Capac Ave. across from Calle Larga. It also includes an archeological museum, a numismatic museum (coins), and a very didactical and up-to-date ethnographic display. Visiting hours Monday thru Friday 9h00 -17h00. Saturdays 9h00 13h00. Entrance fee is $3 for adults and $1.50 for children / students / special groups.

THE RUINS OF TODOS LOS SANTOS Follow the Todos Los Santos Street down the hill. This site has ruins of Cañari, Incas and colonial Spanish constructions. Here you will find the four Incas stonework niches.

CIDAP ARTES POPULARES DE AMERICA MUSEUM This museum is devoted to the handicrafts of South America. It con-

Here you will find a great collection of religious art. It exhibits 64 paintings, more than 200 sculptures, toys, furniture and craftsmanship. Address: 633 Hermano Miguel St. Visiting hours: Monday to Friday: 9h00 -13h00 and 14h30- 18h30 Saturday 10h00-13h00. Admission fee: US$ 2.

MODERN ART MUSEUM It holds a permanent collection of contemporary art. There are many artistic activities available for children and the Biannual International Painting Competition is held here. It is located on 1527 Calle Sucre and Coronel Talbot. Visiting hours: Mondays 14h30 - 18h30, Tuesdays thru Fridays, 9h00- 13h00 and 14h30 – 18h30. Saturdays 10h00 13h00. Free admission. Phone: 283 1027 / 282 0838.

ESQUELETOLOGÍA MUSEUM Bolívar 6-57 & Borrero streets. Visiting hours: Monday-Friday: 10h00 -13h00 / 16h00-19h00. Saturday 10h00 - 14h30. Entrance fee is $1,50. Phone: 2821150.

NATIVE CULTURES MUSEUM This museum was built as homage to the Ecuadorian indigenous cultures and their 15,000 years of existence. It holds archeological pieces from the first indigenous civilizations in Ecuador up to those that lived in the XVI century, in more than 5,000 impressive pieces! Address: Calle Larga 5-24 / Phone: 283 9181. Open Monday- Friday 9h00-18h30 & Saturday 9h00-13h00. Entrance fee: $2.

EDUARDO VEGA’S WORKSHOP AND GALLERY On the hill of Turi, overviewing the 101

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city, 10 minutes by car from downtown Cuenca, we find a beautiful place where the re-known Ecuadorian artist Eduardo Vega has his house, his workshop and gallery. The visitor can admire his latest creations in artistic ceramics, ranging from mugs, plaques, jewelry, and plates up to wonderful murals that show the lushness of Ecuadorian landscape & costumes. You can also find good books, and complimentary coffee and biscuits. Open: Mon-Fri 9h00 -17h30, Sat 9h30- 13h30. “TOQUILLA STRAW HAT" MUSEUM-WORKSHOP: Belonging to the company “Homero Ortega & Hijos”, this complex includes a factory, a gallery, and a store of the famous “Panama hats”. Take a view from its sightseeing terrace. Call 280 9000 to arrange a guided tour. Address: Gil Ramírez Dávalos 3-86.

LA ESQUINA DE LAS ARTES is a commercial and cultural center for the promotion of the arts. Distinguished designers, artists and artisans have gathered to reveal the different processes involved in the creation of their products, which include ceramics, wood crafts, textiles, glass, embroidery, jewelry straw hats and fashion accessories. Open Monday thru Saturday from 10h00 thru 19h30, Sunday from 10h00 to 14h00. Address: El Barranco / Av. 12 de Abril y Agustin Cueva. Phone: 099978966 www.laesquinadelasartes.com

CHURCHES OF SPECIAL INTEREST THE SAGRARIO CHURCH (OLD CATHEDRAL) It is one of the oldest churches in Latin America (1557). Inca blocks from the Pomango Palace were used in the construction. It has marble floors and a gold-leaf altar. The Geodesic Mission used this place as a reference point to calculate the Earth’s circumference. Address: corner of Mariscal Sucre & Luis Cordero. Phone: 2834636.

CATHEDRAL OF THE IMMACULATE CONCEPTION (NEW CATHEDRAL) This Cathedral’s construction began in 1880, and is one of the largest of America. The Cathedral is made of alabaster and marble. Its floor is made of pink marble imported from Carrara, Italy. Both Romance and Baroque are prominent in this architecture. Address: corner of Mariscal Sucre & Benigno Malo.

CHURCH AND MONASTERY OF "EL CARMEN DE ASUNCIÓN" 102

Both have been preserved in the original condition since the XVII

century. A remarkable treasury of religious art pieces can be found here. Located near the main square, to the right of the daily flower market.

TODOS LOS SANTOS CHURCH This is one of the oldest churches in Cuenca. It is also where the first Catholic mass was celebrated after the Spaniards arrived. The statue of Santa Ana, patron saint of the city, is found here. During the end of the XIX century the church that is currently found there replaced it. Address: corner of Calle Larga and Bajada de Todos Los Santos.

CHURCH AND MONASTERY OF THE CONCEPTAS The entrance of the church contains 17th century tombstones. The monastery was constructed in the 16th century and later became a museum of religious art. They are located on the corner of Presidente Cordova and Presidente Borrero Streets. Museum open Monday thru Friday from 9h - 18h30 and Saturdays from 10h- 13h00. Admission fee: $2.50 adults, $1.50 children. Phone: 2830625.

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Calle Larga 693 y Borrero Phone: 2831120/2827401 Fax: 2832340 e-mail: santaana@etapaonline.net.ec / www.grupo-santaana.com Cuenca Ecuador

Padre Aguirre 10-44 next to the Cuenca Park Phone: 07 2850521 // Cel: 099496281

The real Spanish cuisine in Cuenca

General Torres 8-40 st. between Sucre & BolĂvar Phone (593-7) 2823 636 / 2825 571 Fax: 2840 699 E-mail: indigosag@mixmail.com

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PREMIUM SERVICES - CUENCA

Direcciòn: Di iò Estèvez de Toral 8-91 y Simon Bolivar Telèfono: 2826233 E-mail: mangiarebenne@hotmail.com

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MUSEUMS 1. Modern Art 2. Casa de la Cultura 3. CIDAP Artes Populares 4. Remigio Crespo Toral 5. Medicine History 6. Toquilla Straw Museum- Workshop 7. Esqueletologia 8. Las Conceptas 9. Central Bank 10. Native Cultures 11. Agustin Landivar Museum 12. Folklore Institute 13. Cañari Identity Museum

OTHERS 53. Post Office 54. Land Terminal 55. Airport 56. Milenium Plaza Shopping Center 57. Mall del Rio 58. 9 de Octubre Movie Theater 59. Parroquia Baños 60. Cajas National Park 82. Esquina de las Artes Shopping

61. And E. Vega Gallery 62. Cuenca Municipality 63. Azuay Province Government 64. Tourism Ministry 65. Planetarium 66. Amaru Zoo

CHURCHES 14. New Cathedral 15. Old Cathedral 16. San Alfonso 17. La Merced 18. Las Conceptas 19. Todos los Santos 20. El Vergel 21. San Blas 22. Santo Domingo 23. San Francisco 24. Santo Cenáculo 25. San Sebastián 26. Corazón de Jesús 27. María Auxiliadora 28. Turi

VESTIGES 29. The Ruins of Todos los Santos 30. Pumapungo Vestiges

HANDICRAFTS 31. Casa de la Mujer 32. Plaza Rotary 33. Mama Kinua Cultural Center 34. San Francisco 35. Plaza del Otorongo 36. Ceramics 37. Concuero (Leather Goods) 38. Homero Ortega (Toquilla Straw Hats) 39. Typical Clothing 40. Smithery 82. Esquina de las Artes Shopping

PARKS 41. Abdón Calderón 42. Plazoleta Victor J. Cuesta 43. Carlos Cueva Park 44. Luis Cordero Park 45. Mary Corile Park 46. San Blas Park 47. Plazoleta de las Monjas 48. María Auxiliadora Park 49. San Sebastián Park 50. Plazoleta de Cruz del Vado 51. El Paraíso Park 52. Parque de la Madre

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HOTELS

FOOD & DRINKS

71. Carvallo 72. Posada del Angel 73. Inca Real 74. Mansión Alcázar 75. Patrimonio

67. Oro Verde 68. Crespo 69. Santa Lucía 70. Victoria

76. El Pedregal Azteca Restaurant 77. Villa Rosa Restaurant 78. Eucalyptus Cafe 80. El Jardín Restaurant 81. Casa Alonso Restaurant - Le Bar 83. Restaurante Cuatro Ríos

TOURISM INFORMATION 79. The Travel Center

77 72

76 81

78 63 39

71 41 62

69 47

42 33 79

66 82 80

45 70

52 44 65

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Phone: (593 -7) 409 0000 Fax: (593-7) 409 0001 www.oroverdehotels.com / www.oroverdecuenca.com

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COJITAMBO

CUENCA’S SURROUNDINGS CAJAS NATIONAL PARK Cajas is located 19 miles northwest of Cuenca, at an altitude of 9.000 to 13.000 feet above the sea level. This is a place for those who love the great outdoors. Some of the many things to do and see are camping, fishing or hiking miles of trails to choose from through a scenic preserve, and more than 230 lagoons of glacial origin. A guided tour of the area allows one to admire a breathtaking landscape and unique fauna and flora. Warm clothing is recommended due to the low temperatures (32°F - 47°F ).

COJITAMBO Approximately 30 miles from the city of Cuenca, surrounded by an extraordinary landscape, are the ruins of Cojitambo. These constructions belonged to the Cañari indigenous group, which lived in the area before the arrival of the Incas. They lay at approximately 10,000 ft of height.

BAÑOS

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Only 5 miles East from Cuenca, you can find soothing hot spring waters. These thermal waters of volcanic origin reach the surface with a temperature of 158°F and cool down to 95°F -104° F.

GUALACEO This is a subtropical valley, approximately 22 miles away from Cuenca in direction to the Azogues town. At "El Descanso" take your right to reach Gualaceo. This town is known for its handicrafts, folklore and a beautiful river where you can go for a swim.

CHORDELEG Located 10 minutes from Gualaceo, it is a pre-Incan town where important archeological objects can be found. This brilliant culture inhabited the area between the years 500 and 1500 BC. The artisans offer Ikat ponchos, pottery straw hats and jewelry. This is the place to buy the finest gold and silver filigree at a very reasonable price. There is also an excellent ethnographic museum on the square in an old courtyard house, where you can see weavers at work and find good shawls, scarves, belts and embroidery to buy.

HANDICRAFTS ROUTE POTTERY A place where potters still get together to work is the “Convención del 45”, located at the west side of the city, on the outskirts of the colonial cask area.

JEWELRY is a very important handicraft in this

area because Cuenca is located close to gold and silver mines. Jewelry shops are located along the “Gran Colombia” street.

WEAVINGS Several artisans in Cuenca are dedicated to manufacture traditional clothing such as ponchos, skirts, flannels, dresses, embroidered blouses, wool sweaters and weavings with tie-dyed patterns called “ikat”.

BASKET SEWING Baskets and other utilitarian products are elaborated mainly in the San Joaquin Parish.

SMITHY The workers keep alive the tradition of working the iron directly with fire. The smithy neighborhood is a recommended place to visit.

TINSMITH’S On the way up to the “Vado” area some tinsmith’s workshops are found. The products have designs that tell of the blend of cultures that characterizes Cuenca.

TOQUILLA STRAW HATS Most of the “cholas cuencanas” that live in Cuenca and its surroundings still wear these hats with a black hatband. Toquilla Straw hats workshops can be found on the way up the “Vado” area.

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LOJA

LAGUNAS DEL COMPADRE

History and Botanic Center There are two daily flights from Quito to Loja, overlooking the avenue of the volcanoes. One can also take a bus from the city of Cuenca for a 4hour drive with a breathtaking view, but through a winded road. The airport is located at “La Toma” in the Catamayo valley, 15.5 miles away from the city; an approximately 40 minute drive. You share a taxi to the city that will charge $12. The buses arrive into the center of the city. The city of Loja stands 6724 feet above sea level, with an average temperature of 60 to 69 Fahrenheit.

Colorful and lively. With a small population of approximately 150 thousand, the city has an active cultural life, and has several universities.

C), which is kept at the Cathedral for a long period of the year, but has a gothic church dedicated to her, 43 miles from the city.

Loja is crossed by two rivers: Malacatos and Zamora, which give a unique personality to the city. It is one of the cleanest and safest cities in Ecuador. The city has streets, plazas, churches and monasteries of the colonial times, such as the Cathedral and the Santo Domingo, San Francisco and San Sebastian churches.

ATTRACTIONS IN LOJA

Most Lojanos are extremely religious. It is common to find religious processions at the Main Plaza, or sometimes even popular bands and fireworks. Lojanos are especially devoted to the “Virgen del Cisne” (Virgin of the Swan), a sculpture of the Ecuadorian Diego de Robles (XVI

LOURDES STREET A stroll through this street sets you in an old colonial city, especially between Bolivar and Sucre streets. Observe the well preserved wooden balconies, interior patios, cobble stoned streets… and stop by at the small shops where you find a little of everything, as well as handicrafts. Visit the “Cera” neighborhood to observe the elaboration of ceramic handicrafts.

MAIN SQUARE The buildings of the main civil and ecclesiastic authorities: the 111

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Province and City Governments, the Episcopal House and the Cathedral surround the plaza. Although the original architecture of most of these buildings has been modified, they still portray a taste of the Spanish legacy. The building that holds the Central Bank Museum still preserves its original architecture.

CENTRAL BANK MUSEUM The Museum is most interesting. It holds an archeological display (mainly of the Macara and Catamayo cultures), religious art of the XVIII Century, an ethnographic exhibit on the Saraguros, and a small display

on the history and uses of the “quinina” plant. The museum also houses temporary exhibits on the first floor, and each month there is a concert. Open Monday thru Friday from 9h00 thru 17h00. Free admission. Phone: 2573 004 / 2566 651.

MUSEO DE LA MÚSICA Located at Bernardo Valdivieso 09-42 y Rocafuerte. This museum displays musical instruments, notes, pictures and awards of nationally famous musicians from Loja. Open Monday thru Sunday from 8h30 to 12h30 and from 15h00 to 19h00. Free admission. Phone: 2561342.

BOTANICAL GARDEN At the South of the city you find a Botanical Garden that is the only botanical garden at 6560 feet above sea level on the inter-Andean region. It is over 50 years old and holds more than 1.000 plant species. Open Monday thru Friday 8h- 18h00 and Saturdays 9h- 18h00.

MALACATOS VALLEY Right off the city to the South, the charming Malacatos town holds colorful wooden houses that surround a main square where live music is played every Sunday. At this site you can visit a sugar cane “molienda”. The “moliendas” are open Monday

HISTORICAL AND CULTURAL ROUTE OF LOJA CITY

Artesanías Handicraft

Monumento Monument

Iglesia Church

Museo Museum

Información Information

Teléfono Telephone

Información turística Tourist information

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1 2 3 4 5 6

Puerta de la Ciudad. Parque Simón Bolívar - The Simón Bolivar Park. Iglesia de San Francisco - San Francisco's Church. Museo Matilde Hidalgo de Procel - Matilde Hidalgo de Procel museum. Plaza Central o Plaza Mayor de Loja - The Central Square or The largest square of Loja. Iglesia Catedral - Cathedral Church.

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thru Friday and you can observe the workers throughout the whole process of elaboration of raspadura (sugar scraping), using the same machinery that has been used for generations. On the way to Vilcabamba, observe a hill in the shape of a “sleeping Inca”. This hill is called Mandango, and is believed to have been sacred for the Incas.

their way to or from Peru. The name Vilka Bamba or Huilcopamba means “Sacred Valley” in the indigenous tongue Quechua. This site was reserved by the Incas for the main noble authorities, as it is a peaceful and quiet place. Perhaps this tranquility is the reason for the old age of the valley’s inhabitants. It is common to find healthy people of over100 years of age that live here and still work in agriculture.

VILCABAMBA VALLEY This charming valley (at 4.921 ft.) located approximately 1 hour South from Loja city (25 miles) has become a favorite spot for tourists, especially young adventurers on

Many investigations have been made to determine the reason for the longevity of Vilcabamba’s inhabitants, and some factors have been identified: template weather, a water

7 Museo Arqueológico, Histórico y Colonial del Banco Central - The Archaeological, Historical and Colonial Museum of the Central Bank. 8 Museo de Arte Religioso de las Madres Concepcionistas - The Religious art museum of the “Madres Conceptas”. 9 Museo de la Música - Museum of Music. 10 Plaza e Iglesia de Santo Domingo - Santo Domingo Church and Square 11 Plaza de la Independencia o San Sebastián - The Independence Square or San Sebastián Square 12 Iglesia de San Sebastián - San Sebastian Church. 13 Calle Lourdes - Lourdes Street.

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up of 105 lagoons, 3 of which are of easy access. From the Podocarpus NP heading towards the Zamora province, you will encounter impressive formations of hills through a process of wind and water erosion. Open every day. The entrance fee to the park is of $10 and $5 for children under 12. It is better to hire a guide at Loja City, since no information is found at the park’s entrances. Phone: 3024837.

TAPICHALACA RESERVE

rich in minerals, a diet low in fat and high in fiber and magnesium, the peacefulness of the valley and the physical activity. People that suffer of heart disease move to Vilcabamba to imitate the lifestyle of its inhabitants. From Vilcabamba you can arrange horse and bicycle excursions throughout the valley or in the nearby access to the Podocarpus National Park. The Municipality has opened an information office at the corner of the main park.

PODOCARPUS NATIONAL PARK This National Park is located 11 miles South of Loja city. The park was named after a tree specie commonly known as “Romerillo” (Podocarpus montanus). This is a gigantic Coniferous that has adapted to the tropical Andean forests. These trees can reach a height of 131 ft. and live up to 1.000 years. The Podocarpus or Romerillos are in danger of extinction because of the over exploitation of their valuable wood. Now they can be found at the Sabanilla region nearby Loja City 114

and at the Podocarpus National Park. Podocarpus NP holds 3.000 – 4.000 plant species and more than 600 bird species (including Macaws, Cock of the Rock, hummingbirds, toucans, tangaras, etc). It holds endemic bird species such as the Jocotoco Antpitta (Grallaria ridgelyi).The park has an extension of 361.452 acres, and has several different ecosystems that range from the Paramo or moorlands at 12.073 ft, down to the low mountain forest at 2.952 ft, passing through the evergreen high-mountain and mountain forests. Among the plant species are: bromeliads, orchids and ferns, as well as the Mascarilla Chinchona, the Cecropias or Guarumos (Cecropia sp.), and the bamboo (Chusquea sp.) From “El Refugio” it is possible to follow any of the 4 following trekking routes: 1) “Spectacled Bear” 437 yards, 2) “Cloud Forest” 765 yards, 3) “View Point” 1 mile or 3 miles, up to Sabanilla at 11.482 ft. 4) “Compadres Lagoon” 9 miles where you find a fluvial system made

A special site for birdwatchers has been built in the Tapichalaca Reserve that belongs to the Jocotoco Foundation. Tapichalaca has an extension of 9386 acres. It borders the Podocarpus National Park and is located right off the border of the Loja Province with the Zamora Province. It is named after the Tapichalaca hill. Jocotoco is the common name of a bird specie (Grallaria ridgelyi) that was recently discovered (1997) at this site. This bird spends more time “walking” on the bushes than flying, and makes a sound similar to a dog bark. There are bird feeders surrounding the house at the entrance to the reserve, where an amazing diversity of hummingbirds of all colors and sizes welcome visitors.

JOCOTOCO

Photos courtesy of: Rodrigo Tapia, Fernando Sornoza

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At first glance, the rain forest is a vast green wilderness. However, as one observes carefully, this ecosystem is full of surprises for its visitors. Not only is each tree very different from the next, but also for every tree there are hundreds of other plant and animal species in constant interaction. Tropical rain forests occupy 7% of the Earthâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s surface, but they hold 50% of the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s biodiversity (Myers 1988; Wilson 1988). These forests are found in Central America, Africa and Asia, but the biggest area extends in the South American Amazon. To truly take advantage of the rain forest, one must awaken all five senses to discover how exotic life forms have evolved to live together in a minimal extent of land. The embracing sounds tell of the various birds and insects that keep this living forest in constant change. One must carefully observe the many other animal and plant species as they have amazing color and texture adaptations which can be confused with the scenery. The various smells tell of the chemicals that the plants have developed as a defense for herbivores, and many are of medicinal use for humans. In contrast to what one may think, the soil of the rain forest is not fertile. The nutrients that supply this exu116

berant ecosystem are the product of a constant interaction between the living and dying organisms on the surface. Decomposition is vital to the dynamics of the forest. Thus, it is important to preserve this ecosystem in its entirety. The temperature in tropical rain forests is quite stable, with a variation between day and night. However, this ecosystem is far from being stable.

Rainfall is seasonal and results in major changes for the living organisms. Disturbances also add to the high dynamics of this ecosystem. Many hypotheses have been made to explain the impressive high diversity in tropical rain forests, and each provides an insight for better understanding this complex ecosystem. The competition for resources has lead organisms to adapt to unique niches,

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thus resulting in a number of specialized and interdependent organisms.

it is home to less than five percent of the country’s population.

The overwhelming complexity of the forest makes one wonder about the ancestral knowledge of the millenarian indigenous inhabitants. These cultures have passed their knowledge from generation to generation as a way to keep the secrets hidden in this magical site.

The Ecuadorian Amazon region is basically divided into Northern Oriente (Sucumbios, Napo and Orellana provinces) and Southern Oriente (Pastaza, Morona Santiago and Zamora Chinchipe provinces).

In Ecuador, the East of the Andes falls into this exuberant ecosystem. Locally the Amazonia is called Oriente, as it lies on the Eastern side of the country, It occupies almost half of Ecuador’s territory, however,

The Ecuadorian rainforest is home to nine natural reserves, including the two largest mainland protected areas, Parque Nacional Yasuni and the Reserva Faunistica Cuyabeno. Opportunities to visit primary forests and to interact with local communi-

ties are offered by our sponsors. Contact them to immerse in a splendor of life and discover a different way to look at the world!

CLIMATE: The climate is precisely the one you would expect form the rainforest – hot and humid, with plenty of rain. April to July are the wettest months, but you can expect cloudbursts most days throughout the year, especially during the early afternoon. Typical daytime temperatures fluctuate around 25ºC (77 ºF), even though daily highs can reach over 32ºC (90ºF).

IMPORTANT TIPS AND RECOMMENDATIONS WHAT TO BRING: • CASUAL AND LIGHT LONG SLEEVE SHIRTS AND LONG PANTS (BECAUSE OF THE INSECTS AND THE BOUNTIFUL VEGETATION) • HIKING OR COMFORTABLE SHOES • BATHING SUIT • RUBBER BOOTS & RAIN PONCHO (ALTHOUGH MOST FACILITIES HAVE RUBBER BOOTS IN SEVERAL SIZES AND RAIN PONCHOS AVAILABLE FOR THEIR GUESTS) • SUNSCREEN LOTION • INSECT REPELLENT • A HAT • A BACKPACK • A FLASHLIGHT WITH EXTRA BATTERIES • BINOCULARS • CAMERA • WATERPROOF BAGS FOR YOUR BELONGINGS • CASH (BANKING FACILITIES ARE POOR IN THE ECUADORIAN ORIENTE) • EMERGENCY SUPPLIES: MOST LODGES OFFER FIRST-AID KITS, BUT YOU MIGHT WANT TO CARRY YOUR PERSONAL KIT. IF YOU ARE ALLERGIC TO INSECTS, DO NOT FORGET THE NECESSARY MEDICATIONS IN CASE YOU MIGHT FACE A CRISIS • ORIGINAL PASSPORT (REQUIRED AT SOME SPOTS AT THE ECUADORIAN AMAZONIA)

• VACCINATIONS AND MEDICINES: IT IS RECOMMENDED TO CONSULT YOUR PHYSICIAN TO GET THE MOST UPDATED INFORMATION AND ADVICE. FOR SOME SITES DEEP WITHIN THE RAINFOREST, YOU MIGHT BE REQUESTED A YELLOW-FEVER VACCINATION. YOU MAY ALSO WANT TO TAKE MALARIA PILLS; CONSULT YOUR DOCTOR. HOW TO GET THERE: FLIGHTS ARE OFFERED TO THE FOLLOWING CITIES: • COCA – CAPITAL OF THE ORELLANA PROVINCE – ROUNTRIP FLIGHT APROX. $120, SERVED BY THE LOCAL AIRLINE TAME. • LAGO AGRIO – CAPITAL OF SUCUMBIOS, THE NORTHERN-MOST PROVINCE OF THE ECUADORIAN AMAZONIA. THE CITY OF LAGO AGRIO IS NOW OFFICIALLY CALLED NUEVA LOJA. TAME OFFERS DAILY FLIGHTS FOR APROX. $120 ROUNDTRIP • MACAS- CAPITAL OF THE MORONA SANTIAGO PROVINCE. TWO LOCAL AIRLINES OFFER THIS SERVICE: TAME AND SAEREO- ROUNDTRIP APROX $140 * THE CITIES OF TENA AND PUYO CAN BE EASILY REACHED BY LAND (A 3 –6 HOURS DRIVE FROM QUITO).

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INITIATIVE YASUNI- ITT “A Big Idea From a Small Country” The Initiative Yasuni ITT is the insignia project of the Ecuadorian Government in regards to the environment. It aims to prevent the exploitation of an important oilfield in order to protect one of the richest areas in regards to biodiversity in the world, located in the Ecuadorian Amazonia: the Yasuni National Park, declared a world biosphere reserve by UNESCO. A sole hectare in this Park holds more species than the whole of North America! The Ishpingo-Tambococha- Tiputini oilfield holds a reserve of approximately 850 million crude barrels. The exploitation of this material would mean the emission of 407 million tons of carbon dioxide. The Ecuadorian Government seeks for a compensation of the international community of at least half the income that this oil exploitation would produce. The other half would be the Ecuadorians’ contribution. If this dream is accomplished, the Government of Ecuador commits to indefinitely refraining from exploiting the oil reserves in this area. What are the direct benefits of the Yasuni-ITT Project? • 407 million tons of CO2 will be prevented from being emitted into the atmosphere. • The enormous biological wealth of the Yasuni National Park will be preserved. • Respect to the indigenous cultures of the peoples living in voluntary isolation within the Yasuni Park. • Social development projects will be implemented in the project’s area of influence, addressing health, education, and sustainable employment. • Support for Ecuador’s transition from an extractive economy to a sustainable development model, with the widespread use of renewable energy sources, respect for biodiversity and social equality. • The reinvestment of the donated funds into renewable energy sources will reduce or eliminate the generation of electricity from petroleum derivatives, which currently accounts for 47% of all electric power in the country. For more information visit: www.yasuni-itt.gov.ec 118

info@advantagecuador.com www.manateeamazonexplorer.com

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ADVENTURE IN THE AMAZON

HAKUNA MATATA What a wonderful place! In the heart of Ecuador, off the beaten tourist paths, you will find a place where nothing is obligatory, but everything is possible! From absolute relaxation to total adrenaline… (taken from www.hakunamat.com)

Popularized by Disney’s movie “The Lion King”, Hakuna Matata is a Swahili phrase that is literally translated as “There are no worries”. Rudolf (Rudy) Hoeberigs and Marcellina 120

Braem, owners of a private hacienda of approximately 150 ha (370 acres) in the Ecuadorian Amazonia, share this philosophy with their guests. Attention to detail guarantees a most pleasant stay: delicious food carefully presented, comfortable beds, impeccable cleanliness, great facilities, fun activities, and over all: personalized attention by the owners and / or the hosteria’s staff, whose kindness and great service is without doubt the hosteria’s greatest asset!

Location Hakuna Matata lies at the shores of the crystal-clear Inchillaqui River, at an altitude between 1900 and 2800 feet. Only 10 km (6.2 miles) away from the city of Tena, capital of the Napo province, this hosteria is only a 3- hour drive from Quito. Moreover, the road from Quito to Tena is a wonderful display of Ecuador’s breath-

taking natural diversity: on the way you pass through Andean moorlands and dense cloud forests until you reach the rain forest. A treat for nature lovers! Just before reaching Tena, you come to a PS gas station. Turn right immediately after the bridge over the Misahualli river. Here you take a secondary road to your right hand side following Hakuna Matata’s signs for 3.9 km/ 2.4 miles (Via Chaupi Shungo). To reach the hosteria, the car must cross a pending bridge: quite an experience!

While there… Once you reach Hakuna Matata, a most welcoming staff will make sure to make the best of your stay. While the comfortable beds and bathrooms, inviting hammocks, large pool, nearby sandy beach and cozy restaurant and bar cre-

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ate an ambiance for relaxation, there are a number of activities to enjoy: rafting and horseback riding for the most adventurous; self- guided hikes; visit to the frog breeding center; observation of the Procolumbian petroglives within the property, and more… Hakuna Matata is sure to delight you no matter your hobbies or age! The horseback riding excursion is unique! Suited both for beginners and advanced riders, this excursion is a genuine jungle adventure. Excellent guides instruct you on the basic riding skills necessary for this excursion, and introduce you to the horse you are to ride. The animals are well taken care of and have comfortable saddles. Helmets are available for those who require them. The adventure includes slopes, crossing rivers on horseback and breathtaking rainforest views. The rides are organized within the Hacienda’s property.

Swimming pool Hakuna Matata has a unique swimming pool for guests only. Archidona's hallmark is its tall hardwood palm tree, called 'chonta', so the pool has been designed as a 'chonta', but one that's 88 feet long and 72 feet wide! Spring water (at a temperature of about 77° F, or 25° C) flows into the pool night and day. With a depth ranging from 1 to 7 feet the pool is great for swimming, diving

or just splashing around. Around the pool, there are deck chairs and off to one side there is a special spot for relaxing, with hammocks and a massage bench. From the pool, there is a spectacular view of the Llanganati mountains. Ideal for 'dolce far niente' after a long trip or before you take off for yet another hike!

Food and drinks But undoubtedly, one of the best treats of Hakuna Matata is its restaurant Pangea, which serves delicious international meals with topquality products. Dinner is served in an exceptional manner and beautiful presentation that make it especially romantic and inviting. The restaurant is surrounded by rainforest vegetation, birds and hummingbirds are often seen around, and the sounds of the river and/ or the rain complete a unique ambiance. The bar offers soft

drinks, fresh juices, cocktails, beers, and a unique selection of wines.

Accommodation There are three types of accommodation: 'Cabañas Hakuna Matata', 'Hakuna Lodge' and 'Hakuna Supreme'. Hakuna Supreme are the most spacious rooms, perfect for honeymooners or couples. The cabañas are more suited for families or groups of friends. All are impeccable and have excellent mattresses, hot water, amenities, and fans. Live the Hakuna Matata experience at the Ecuadorian Amazonia! Useful information: Tel./Fax: (+593) (0)6 28 89 61 7 Mobile:(+593) (0)9 33 77 44 1 E-mail: info@hakunamat.com, ecuadorparadise@gmail.com www.hakunamat.com

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EMBASSIES + CONSULATES Quito - 593 2 Amazonas Ave. 477 & Roca Phone 2562292

Austria

Gaspar de Villarroel E9-53 & Av. de Los Shyris Phone: 2469700

Jorge Pérez Concha 718 & Guayacanes. / Phone: 2384886

Belgium

República Del Salvador 1082 & Naciones Unidas / Phone: 2276145 / 2273910

Juan Antonio Campos 101 & García Avilés / Phone: 2310505

Brazil

Amazonas N25-23 & Colón Phone: 2563141 Av. Amazonas & UNP 4153 Edificio Eurocenter 3rd floor Ph: 2455499 / Fax: 2277672

C.C. Dicentro Locales 33-34 Ph: 2277065 / Fax: 2293046

Argentina

Canada

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Guayaquil - 593 4 Av. Las Monjas N.10 & Carlos Arosemena Edif. Hamburgo P.B. Phone: 2208777 - 769

Cuenca - 593 7

Gill Ramirez Dávalos 1434 Phone: 4089054

Av. Juan Tanca Marengo & Av. J. Orrantea / Ph: 2296837

Chile

Juan Pablo Sanz 3617 & Amazonas Edif. Xerox / Phone: 2249403

Av. 9 de Octubre & Malecón Edif. La Previsora 23th floor Of. 2303 / Phone: 2562-995

Colombia

Av. Colón 1133 & Amazonas Edificio Arista 7th floor Phone: 2222486

Francisco de Orellana, Edificio WTC Torre B / Phone: 2630674

Costa Rica

Isla San Cristóbal N44-385 & Guepi Phone: 2256016 / 09700080

Egypt

Tarqui E4-56 & 6 de Dic. Phone: 2225240

France

General Leonidas Plaza 107 & Patria Phone 2943800

José Mascote 909 & Hurtado Phone: 2328442

Gran Colombia 661 Mezanine Phone: 2837693

Germany

Naciones Unidas Edif City Plaza, 14th floor / Phone: 2970820

Av. Las Monjas #10 & Carlos Julio Arosemena Edif. Berlin / Ph: 2206867 - 8

Bolivar 918 & Benigno Malo Phone: 2822783

Great Britain

Naciones Unidas Edif City Plaza 14th floor / Phone: 2970800

Gral. Cordova 623 & Padre Solano Phone:2560400

Holland

12 de Octubre Ave. 1942 WTC Phone: 2229229

Israel

Av. Coruña E25-58 & San IgnacioEdif. Altana 5th floor / Phone: 3971500-1

9 de Octubre Ave. 729 & Boyacá Phone:2534503 / Fax: 2328196

Italy

La Isla 111 & Humberto Albornoz Phone: 2561077-4

P. Ycaza 423 entre Córdoba & B. Moreno Phone: 2566658

Japan

Amazonas Ave. N39-123 & Arízaga / Phone: 2278700

Km. 11.5 Vía Daule Phone: 2100600 ext 212

Korea

Av. 12 de Octubre & Cordero Edif. WTC Tower B 3th floor / Ph. 2909227

Francisco de Orellana WTC Bdg. Tower B. Of. 1005 Ph. 2630774

Mexico

6 de Diciembre Ave. N36-165 Phone: 2254467

Peru

República Del Salvador N34-361 & Irlanda / Phone: 2468410

Francisco de Orellana 501 Edif. Centrum 14th floor / Phone: 2280135 / 2280114

Russia

Reina Victoria 462 & Roca Phone: 2526375

Clemente Ballén 2703 Phone: 2451361

Spain

La Pinta 455 & Amazonas Phone: 2555733 / 2945111

Velez & Tungurahua Esquina Phone: 6017460

Switzerland

Amazonas 3617 & Juan Pablo Sanz Edif. Xerox 2nd floor / Phone: 2434949

Juan Tanca Marengo Ave. Km 1.8 Phone: 2681997

U.S.A.

Avigiras E12-170 & Eloy Alfaro Phone: 3985000

9 de Octubre Ave. & García Moreno Phone: 2323570 / Fax: 232-1152

Uruguay

6 de Diciembre Ave. 2816 Phone: 2563762

Junín 114 & Malecón Phone:2311058 / Fax: 2563763

Venezuela

Av. Amazonas 30-240 & E. Alfaro Phone: 2557209 / 2554032

Chile 329 & Aguirre Phone: 2326600

Av. José Peralta 1019 Edif. Acrópolis Phone: 2881989

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AUGUST 2010

THIS IS ECUADOR

AUGUST 2010

No 481

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