dwjtbtr5rgg magzus.org by Thomas Swift

WILD GASSER-STYLE ’66 CHEVELLE WAGON

PRO STREET LIVES 938HP BLOWN BIG-BLOCK ’71 Z28 CAMARO

CAMARO CONVERSION, PART 1 USING EARLY SECOND-GEN SHEETMETAL ON A ’78 DO IT! 1,200HP 5.3L SHORT-BLOCK JUNE 2022 ISSUE 18 $8.95 I N T H E G A R AG E M E D I A .C O M

LAYMAN’S GUIDE TO EFI

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DEPARTMENTS

TECH

FIRING UP

'78 CAMARO STEEL BUMPER CONVERSION Part 1: How to Get a Late Second-Gen Looking Like an Early ’70s Model

PARTS BIN

CHEVY CONCEPTS

A LAYMAN’S GUIDE TO EFI Understanding the Terms, Sensors, and Systems

BOWTIE BONEYARD

PROJECT STOCKER We Build a 5.3 LS Short-Block Capable of 1,200 Reliable Horsepower

FEATURES ON THE COVER “Pro Street Lives” is a headline that’s been used on magazine covers for decades, and Jay Breitmaier’s totally badass ’71 Camaro confirms that Pro Street is in fact alive and kicking. Check out the full feature starting on page 16. Photo by Tommy Lee Byrd

HEY BUDDY, GOT A JUMP? Personal-Sized Battery Jump Boxes Serve a Purpose

SHOW AND GO Jay Breitmaier’s '71 Camaro

JAILBAIT AJ & Tina Schwichtenberg’s '66 Chevelle

SPECIAL FEATURE 66

TERM PAPER Part 1: Restomod and Day Two Resto

MAXSTREET Lou Jasper’s '69 Camaro RS

HIGHER GROUND Joey Dean’s '66 Chevelle Wagon

HEALTHY ADDICTION John Griffith III’s '67 Chevelle OFFICIAL OE REPLACMENT PARTS OF

All Chevy Performance ISSN 2767-5068 (print) ISSN 2767-5076 (online) Issue 18 is published monthly by In the Garage Media, 370 E. Orangethorpe Avenue, Placentia, CA 92870-6502. Postage paid at Placentia, CA. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to: All Chevy Performance c/o In the Garage Media, 1350 E. Chapman Ave #6550, Fullerton, CA 92834-6550 or email ITGM at subscription@inthegaragemedia.com. Copyright (c) 2022 IN THE GARAGE MEDIA. Printed in the USA. The All Chevy Performance trademark is a registered trademark of In The Garage Media.

ALL CHEVY PERFORMANCE

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VOLUME 2 • ISSUE 18 • 2022

2021 RECIPIENT OF THE HRIA BUSINESS OF THE YEAR AWARD

EDITORIAL DIRECTOR BRIAN BRENNAN bbrennan@inthegaragemedia.com EDITOR-IN-CHIEF NICK LICATA nlicata@inthegaragemedia.com SENIOR EDITOR ROB FORTIER rfortier@inthegaragemedia.com PUBLISHER TIM FOSS tfoss@inthegaragemedia.com ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER & OPERATIONS MANAGER YASMIN FAJATIN yfajatin@inthegaragemedia.com MANAGING EDITOR & AD COORDINATOR SARAH GONZALES sgonzales@inthegaragemedia.com ART DIRECTOR ROB MUNOZ rmunoz@inthegaragemedia.com EDITORIAL TEAM Wes Allison, Tommy Lee Byrd, Ron Ceridono, Grant Cox, Dominic Damato, John Gilbert, Tavis Highlander, Jeff Huneycutt, Barry Kluczyk, Scotty Lachenauer, Jason Lubken, Steve Magnante, Ryan Manson, Jason Matthew, Josh Mishler, Evan Perkins, Richard Prince, Todd Ryden, Jason Scudellari, Jeff Smith, Tim Sutton, and Chuck Vranas – Writers and Photographers IN THE GARAGE MEDIA ON THE WEB AllChevyPerformance.com ClassicTruckPerformance.com ModernRodding.com InTheGarageMedia.com SUBSCRIPTIONS subscription@inthegaragemedia.com (833) 985-9171 ADVERTISING Travis Weeks Advertising Sales Manager Mark Dewey National Sales Manager Patrick Walsh Sales Representative ads@inthegaragemedia.com BACK ISSUES inthegaragemedia.com “Online Store” For bulk back issues of 10 copies or more, contact store@inthegaragemedia.com EDITORIAL CONTRIBUTIONS info@inthegaragemedia.com Editorial contributions are welcomed but editors recommend that contributors query first. Contribution inquiries should first be emailed to info@inthegaragemedia.com. Do not mail via USPS as we assume no responsibility for loss or damage thereto. IN THE GARAGE MEDIA reserves the right to use material at its discretion, and we reserve the right to edit material to meet our requirements. Upon publication, payment will be made at our current rate, and that said, payment will cover author’s and contributor’s rights of the contribution. Contributors’ act of emailing contribution shall constitute and express warranty that material is original and no infringement on the rights of others.

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Nitroactive.net Orange, CA nitroactive.net Autobooks-Aerobooks Burbank, CA (818) 845-0707 autobooks-aerobooks.com Hot Rod Paper Company Youngstown, OH (800) 676-3026 gadmak@aol.com Pasteiner’s Birmingham, MI (248) 646-2886 pasteiners.com Reader’s World (616) 396-4600 readersworldbookstore.com Horton Hot Rod Parts Ontario, Canada (905) 876-2124 hortonhotrod.ca Graffiti Publications Victoria 3450 Australia graffitipub.com.au One56 Björklinge, Sweden one56.se

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1. THROTTLE BODY TRIO

2. LS TO L79 3. SMALL-BLOCK INTAKE

FiTech’s 3x2 throttle body system is a great way to fuel your muscle car. Now you can finish the system with a trio of classic air cleaners. These all-new, D-shaped air cleaners deliver great looks with a high-quality cast-aluminum finned top and sturdy base designed specifically for FiTech’s unique 500-cfm throttle body. The assembly measures 7.125x4.75 inches and only 4 inches tall for added hood clearance. An efficient cotton/gauze element is included to ensure only clean air enters the throttle body.

Lokar’s new GM L79-style intake kit, part of their LS Classic Series line of products for Chevrolet LS engines, emulates the look of a classic L79 engine found in ’60s Chevelles and GTOs. This kit gives you everything you need to adapt a GM 92mm throttle body and vintage carb-style intake manifold to your LS engine. The intake kit includes a single-plane aluminum intake manifold, billet aluminum fuel rails, chrome dual-snorkel air cleaner, 4150 carb adapter plate, all mounting hardware, and gaskets.

Summit Racing’s cast-aluminum dual plane manifolds feature a runner design that delivers improved power from idle to 5,500 rpm right smack in the powerband most street engines operate. They accept squarebore-type four-barrel carburetors and are available for ’55-86 smallblock Chevys, ’87-95 small-block Chevys with TBI, and ’96-02 small-block Chevys with Vortec heads in your choice of natural, black powdercoated, or polished finishes.

For more information, contact FiTech by calling (951) 340-2624 or visit fitechefi.com.

For more information, contact Lokar by calling (877) 469-7440 or visit lokar.com.

For more information, contact Summit Racing by calling (800) 230-3030 or visit summitracing.com.

ALL CHEVY PERFORMANCE [10] VOLUME 2 • ISSUE 18 • 2022

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PARTS BIN

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4 5

4. WASTEGATE HEAT SHIELD DEI’s Wastegate Heat Shield features high-tech composite materials with superior thermal insulating properties to help turbos run as efficiently as possible. Thermal protection starts with a Titanium LR Technology outer layer encasing multiple stainless steel and silica inner layers. Stainless mesh and thread ensure durability even on the hottest engines, while stainless wire and true riveted tie-downs allow for a secure, simple installation. The DEI Wastegate Heat Shield is lightweight for high-performance applications, controlling extreme heat for improved turbo system efficiency and function. For more information, contact DEI by calling (800) 930-7940 or visit designengineering.com.

5. SLICK ACCESSORIES

6. TOTALLY TUBULAR

Putting a new engine in an older car or truck, or installing a new front clip, can often present lubrication issues. Chances are that Aviaid can provide a solution to the problem. Aviaid manufactures a comprehensive assortment of wet sump and drysump oil pumps, oil pans, tanks, and accessories— not to mention over 40 dedicated and universal mounting brackets and pump drives. Systems are available for Chevy LS/LT, big- and small-block, and a wide variety of other brands.

Strengthen your suspension and improve handling with these tubular lower control arms for your ’64-72 Chevelle from Performance Online. Manufactured from 1.625 OD DOM tubing, these control arms are specifically designed to run with coilover shocks and offer added geometry to make your ride perform at its best. The ball joint area is greatly strengthened to eliminate the problems found with the OEM factory units and have been re-positioned to help knock out binding.

For more information, contact Aviaid by calling (818) 998-8991 or visit aviaid.com.

For more information, contact Performance Online by calling (866) 605-1453 or visit performanceonline.com.

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CHEVY CONCEPTS

1969 CHEVROLET CAMARO ALL CHEVY PERFORMANCE

[14] VOLUME 2 • ISSUE 18 • 2022

InTheGarageMedia.com

TEXT & RENDERING BY TAVIS HIGHLANDER

he boys at Born Vintage Hot Rods know how to put their own brand of styling “seasoning” on every build that rolls through their shop. One of the latest projects, a ’69 Camaro, is no exception with just the right amount of spiciness. That attitude comes from many elements, but

the custom tube chassis equipped with Heidts IRS is the backbone of the build. A built LS7 backed by a TREMEC six-speed offers up the go while Wilwood brakes bring the slow. The stance will be nice and low thanks to that tube chassis. A set of Forgeline VX1S monoblocks tuck into the fenders and are finished in a satin charcoal. Custommachined hood vents now face forward and act as mini scoops. All these subtle little bits add up to another build with substantial character. @TavisHighlander TavisHighlander.com Vehicle Build by: Born Vintage Hot Rods, Bakersfield, CA

ALL CHEVY PERFORMANCE

[15] VOLUME 2 • ISSUE 18 • 2022

ALL CHEVY PERFORMANCE [16] VOLUME 2 • ISSUE 18 • 2022

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BY TOMMY LEE BYRD

PHOTOGRAPHY BY THE AUTHOR

ro Street got its start with the idea of implementing features from a Pro Stock drag car into a vehicle that could be driven on the street. After about 20 years of evolution and innovation, the Pro Street movement lost a lot of its popularity, largely because of the lack of actual performance associated with these fat-tired freaks of nature. However, a dedicated following has kept Pro Street alive and, if anything, it’s gone back to its radical roots with excessive horsepower and tire-torching capabilities. This incredibly brutal ’71 Camaro Z28 is a fine example of modern Pro Street goodness, as it boasts giant rear tires and four-digit horsepower to match the aggressive drag car appearance.

JAY BREITMAIER’S ’71 CAMARO PROVES THAT PRO STREET IS ALIVE AND WELL

ALL CHEVY PERFORMANCE

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Jay Breitmaier owns the Camaro; he bought it from a friend a few years ago. It was a turnkey car but Jay had several ideas to take it to the next level. Jay is based out of Somersworth, New Hampshire, and said that his Camaro was originally built by MVA Customs in Long Island, New York. The Northeast is known for its over-the-top Pro Street builds and this one is no different, as it really jumps out and grabs your attention with the giant BDS Dominator scoop and brilliant candy paint. The sounds generated by the 10-71 supercharger, giant roller camshaft, and 4-inch exhaust certainly turns heads as well. Underneath, the car still has a lot of Camaro elements, including the original front subframe, but it has been upgraded with tubular control arms and coilovers. Out back is where it gets really interesting, as the rear section of the floor and frame were completely tossed aside in favor of new framerails and wheeltubs that provide clearance for the widest street tires that Mickey Thompson offers. Fitting the 33x22.5 tires also required stretching the wheel openings to keep the proportions right. The narrowed Dana 60 is indestructible and transfers power from a stout 565ci big-block.

VOLUME 2 • ISSUE 18 • 2022

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FEATURE

Lukovich Racing Engines is responsible for the big-inch rat that utilizes a Dart Big M block, forged internals, and Dart 335cc cylinder heads. All of this is combined with a Comp custom-grind camshaft, designed specifically to work with copious amounts of boost. In typical Pro Street fashion, part of the “wow” factor comes from a roots-style supercharger topped with dual Holley carburetors. The engine was bolted to the dyno at Lukovich Racing Engines where it cranked out 1,017 hp in its original configuration. After upgrading the blower to a 10-71, Jay strapped the car to the chassis dyno at Performance Dyno in Loudon, New Hampshire. With 93-octane pump gas in the tank, the Camaro laid down 938 hp and 810 lb-ft of torque to the rear wheels. A nitrous system with dual color-matched bottles takes this combination over the edge in the best possible way. As for aesthetics, the engine bay features custom close-out panels for a smooth look and lots of satin black paint and powdercoating for the perfect sinister attitude. Behind the big-block is a Rossler TH400 automatic transmission, which features a billet valvebody with a trans brake, and a Coan torque converter that stalls to 3,800 rpm.

ALL CHEVY PERFORMANCE [18] VOLUME 2 • ISSUE 18 • 2022

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ALL CHEVY PERFORMANCE [19] VOLUME 2 • ISSUE 18 • 2022

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FEATURE Although the giant engine commands most of the attention, it’s the Candy Brandy paint that really makes this car pop. All the trim has been treated to satin black paint, which works nicely with the dark-tinted windows and black wheels. An open door reveals a custom black interior with a mixture of leather and suede materials. A 10-point rollcage is a little difficult to navigate, but it keeps the chassis stiff and protects Jay if things get a little hairy. Once he’s in the driver seat, visibility is marginal, due to the 7-inch cowl hood and protruding scoop, but that’s part of the Pro Street game. Custom bucket seats and a custom console provide a little splash of comfort in this radical secondgeneration Camaro, but it’s obvious that comfort and convenience are not at the top of Jay’s priority list.

ALL CHEVY PERFORMANCE [20] VOLUME 2 • ISSUE 18 • 2022

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ALL CHEVY PERFORMANCE [21] VOLUME 2 • ISSUE 18 • 2022

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FEATURE

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TECH OWNER: Jay Breitmaier VEHICLE: ’71 Camaro Z28 Engine TYPE: Big-block Chevy DISPLACEMENT: 565 ci COMPRESSION RATIO: 9.4:1 BORE: 4.600 inches STROKE: 4.25 inches CYLINDER HEADS: Dart Pro1 335cc by Lukovich ROTATING ASSEMBLY: Forged with Wiseco gas-ported pistons VALVETRAIN: T&D shaft rocker arms CAMSHAFT: Custom grind Comp Cams roller with 0.808/0.775-inch lift INDUCTION: Blower Shop 10-71 Supercharger with dual Holley 1050 carbs IGNITION: MSD Pro-Billet with MSD 7AL-2 box EXHAUST: Lemons headers with MagnaFlow mufflers, 4-inch pipes ANCILLARIES: Electric water pump, custom-plumbed nitrous system OUTPUT (at rear wheels): 938 hp and 810 lb-ft of torque Drivetrain TRANSMISSION: TH400 by Coan Engineering, billet valvebody with trans brake, 3,800 stall REAR AXLE: Narrowed Dana 60 with spool, Moser 31-spline axles, 4.11:1 gears Chassis FRONT SUSPENSION: QA1 coilovers, tubular control arms, manual rack-and-pinion steering REAR SUSPENSION: Custom four-link with QA1 coilovers BRAKES: Wilwood discs Wheels & Tires WHEELS: Sanders 15x4 and 15x15 with beadlocks TIRES: Mickey Thompson Sportsman Radial, 26.0x6.00R15 front and 33x22.5R15 rear Interior UPHOLSTERY: Custom with diamond inserts MATERIAL: Suede/leather SEATS: Custom bucket seats STEERING: Billet Specialties SHIFTER: B&M DASH: Original INSTRUMENTATION: Auto Meter AUDIO: N/A HVAC: N/A Exterior BODYWORK: MVA Customs (Long Island, NY) PAINT BY: MVA Customs PAINT: Custom mixed Candy Brandy HOOD: Glastek 7-inch cowl, stretched GRILLE: Painted BUMPERS: Color matched

We ran across Jay’s Z28 at an event that was geared toward Pro Street cars, and it was a true standout, even in a sea of big tires and blowers. The attention to detail and the overall look grabbed our attention, but it was the fact that he entered the burnout contest that really sold us on Jay’s commitment to using the horsepower for all the right reasons. Splattering rubber onto the quarter-panels didn’t seem to bother Jay in the least, and it certainly pleased the crowd. Jay’s ’71 Camaro has all the qualities of a show car with all the horsepower of a drag car, and it can cruise the boulevard, boil the hides, and put a smile on hot rodders’ faces everywhere it goes. ALL CHEVY PERFORMANCE [22] VOLUME 2 • ISSUE 18 • 2022

ACP TECH

BY ALL CHEVY PERFORMANCE STAFF

’78 CAMARO STEEL BUMPER CONVERSION PART 1: HOW TO GET A LATE SECOND-GEN LOOKING LIKE AN EARLY ’70S MODEL

he collector car market continues to grow year after year, making a lot of the cars we know and love harder to obtain. While spit balling one night, The Installation Center owner Craig Hopkins and friend Bill Crabtree were hanging out after a long day’s work and started discussing this very topic. In the background sits a derelict ’78 Chevy Camaro. Hopkins looks at Crabtree and sees the wheels turning. Hopkins asks, “What’s the scheme?” This is where it gets good. Crabtree suggests, “Why can’t we take that old Camaro and turn it into a steel bumper car?” Hopkins, with his vast experience, immediately knew that this had to be done. Why not? The ’74-81 Camaro is vastly more available than that of the ’70-73 cars. Anyone who has restored an early second-gen Camaro knows that the entry point on one of these cars continues to climb. Crabtree continues, “If we can swap the front and rear and turn that car into an earlier version, that opens a whole realm of cars available at a considerable cost reduction.” After a good night’s sleep, Hopkins can’t get the idea out of his head. So, he immediately contacts the guys at Auto Metal Direct (AMD); after all, AMD is the go-to place for all his restoration parts and body panel needs. He lets them know the idea and checks to see what they have available to tackle this project. AMD has it all—the panels, the glass, the trim, the lights, bezels, grille—everything needed to make it happen. Hopkins immediately places his order and away we go.

ALL CHEVY PERFORMANCE [24] VOLUME 2 • ISSUE 18 • 2022

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1. First step is to get the front end off the car. It is mostly bolt on components, so no need to show you disassembly. Here is where we are going to pull the suspension and front end to prep prior to going onto the table.

2. With our car on the table, we will begin disassembly of the rear of the car. The Installation Center focuses on this work and has the tables ready to go to make this process turnkey. If you are doing this at home, get the car stripped and level to achieve the same results.

3. Deconstruction begins with removal of the taillights, rear spoiler, rear bumper, and decklid. Get all the glass, gaskets, wiring, and interior out of the way. Getting down to the metal is the goal. We are removing most of the back end of this car so crossbraces can be installed to maintain structural integrity.

4. With everything cleared out, Hopkins starts with removing the quarter-panels. He prefers melting the lead joints and using a wire brush. This cuts down on the harmful side effects when working with this material.

5. We are going to reuse the roof skin and most of the roof structure. A cut-off wheel is used just below the seam to retain the roof. 6. The air chisel is used to get the rest of the quarter-panels loose. A quick pass around the perimeter makes this process go by faster. ALL CHEVY PERFORMANCE [25] VOLUME 2 • ISSUE 18 • 2022

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7. With most of the quarter-panel removed, you can see what we will be removing next. We will be retaining the doorjamb, rocker panel, package tray, and rear framerails. The rest has got to go.

8. Hopkins and Crabtree tag team the removal. Take careful consideration at this step, you don’t want to remove any material that you are going to keep.

10.

9. Hopkins assesses the detail removal to keep the package tray intact. A little time spent here can save you time and money by not removing anything still needed.

11.

10. Meticulous removal of the rear panels continue; you want to save those rear framerails. 11. With careful planning, Hopkins knows where to cut larger sections without worry of overstepping. ALL CHEVY PERFORMANCE [26] VOLUME 2 • ISSUE 18 • 2022

1967 Chevy Nova Builders/Owners: Scott & Brian Hughes

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12.

12. Crabtree is just as particular as Hopkins; he gets the wheelhouses removed with the framerail ready for final cleanup.

13.

13. Hopkins uses the air chisel to peel back the layers on the framerail. Control is key when using this tool. It can be very effective when done with patience. 14. Crabtree moves to the other side and starts removing the trunk floor at the inside of the framerail.

14.

15.

15. The air chisel makes quick work of the trunk floor. Also, note the straps retaining the package tray, these are used to keep it from collapsing once the other wheelhouse is removed.

16. 16. Remove the trunk floor extensions on the outside of the framerail.

ALL CHEVY PERFORMANCE [28] VOLUME 2 • ISSUE 18 • 2022

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Hopkins then contacted us here at All Chevy Performance magazine to see if it was something our readers would want to see. Heck yeah! This is right up our alley. So, we are starting this multi-part process with some of the basics. This is going to be an involved project, but if you follow along in the next few issues we are confident that you too can do this at home, or at least bring the idea to your favorite hot rod shop to handle the process. Let’s dive in and get started. We take you to The Installation Center in Cleveland, Georgia, where Hopkins will show us the ins and outs of how to make a later second-gen Camaro look like the more desirable early second-gen (’70-73) Camaro.

18.

In this article, we are going to cover the basics of car prep and teardown. Here we go!

17. Crabtree peels back the metal attached to the framerail as Hopkins preps the bumper bracket reinforcement for removal. 18. Crabtree moves back to the passenger side as Hopkins removes the bumper reinforcement. 19. With all the panels removed, you can see there isn’t a whole lot left. Framerails, roof, package tray, rockers, and doorjambs are still intact and ready for primer. Don’t worry, rebuild will be a breeze. Stay tuned, we will cover it all right here in the next issue of All Chevy Performance .

19.

SOURCES AUTO METAL DIRECT (833) 404-4777 autometaldirect.com THE INSTALLATION CENTER (706) 348-6653 amdinstallation.com ALL CHEVY PERFORMANCE [30] VOLUME 2 • ISSUE 18 • 2022

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A GIRL, A ’66 CHEVELLE, AND TOO MUCH FUN

“Hey, there goes Jailbait Tina!” Those were the words photographer John Jackson humorously blurted out while at GoodFellows Classic Cars in Phoenix to shoot this gorgeous yet brawny ’66 Chevelle. It wasn’t because there was an underage girl behind the wheel, but due to the front license plate that reads JAIL B8. The story of the plate goes back to when Tina’s husband, AJ Schwichtenberg, owner of GoodFellows, had a ’62 bubbletop with that California plate. As AJ tells it, “I wanted to get that same plate for the Chevelle I was building for my wife, Tina, but the Arizona DMV wasn’t having it.” AJ kept the original and put it on the front of the Chevelle, which got Jackson’s attention as Tina was moving the car in position for the photo shoot.

ALL CHEVY PERFORMANCE [33] VOLUME 2 • ISSUE 18 • 2022

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FEATURE

AJ has built and owned dozens of vintage Chevelles and found this one a few years back that a buddy of his was less than fond of, so he was selling it for a mere $1,500. Before it got in AJ’s hands, the prior shop deemed it unfixable—the rear quarters were welded in with a 1¾-inch difference in height on each side of the car and the driprails were cut off the wrong way. Being the owner of a hot rod shop had its perks– one being having the talented crew who can pretty much fix anything related to vintage cars; having so much experience with Chevelles made it even easier. GoodFellows’ shop foreman Victor Hebert ditched the old quarters and stitched in a fresh set of sheetmetal from Original Parts Group. From gap to gap, Hebert prepped the body, massaged the wheel openings, and tubbed the rear inner fenders in preparation for massive rubber. He got the body back on track prior to dousing the classic in PPG Cortez Silver. Royal Plating in Tucson freshened up the stock bumpers, which now look better than new, and in GoodFellows fashion, Hebert tucked ’em to the body because they just look better that way. Hebert dropped the whole enchilada on an Art Morrison GT Sport chassis complete with their triangulated four-bar rear suspension arrangement. Strange coilover shocks and 250-pound springs take up residence out back, while Art Morrison Sport IFS control arms, modified C6 steering knuckles, Strange coilover shocks, 450-pound springs, and power rack-and-pinion steering reside up front. AJ staggard the Budnik SKO wheels old school like and went with 18s up front and big ol’ 20s out back, then wrapped the quartet in Pirelli rubber. Although the wheels are modern in size, they possess enough vintage styling to preserve the Chevelle’s ’60s aura. Not vintage are the massive Wilwood disc brakes on all four corners, giving the Chevelle the ultimate in modern stopping power. A hydro-assisted Wilwood master ensures minimal effort for a smooth and predictable pedal. AJ has been a big fan of the LSA 376ci engine for years and informed us inventory on these mills is just about depleted, but he was able to rathole one away for his wife’s special build. The mostly stock bullet carries all the standard GM goodness with a stock bore and stroke, yet AJ upped the performance with a Texas Speed Stage 2 LS3-B cam. The American Billet LSA Two Tone Diamond Cut accessory drive kit features a black finish with silver accents, which comply with the custom GoodFellows valve covers and Eddie Motorsports hood hinges. GoodFellows’ Conor Jackson, who runs the fab shop, built and plumbed the custom cold air intake up to the cowl for a healthy dose of fresh atmosphere, which AJ claims is “worth 20 hp right there.” The spent greenhouse makes quick exit via the custom GoodFellows headers, 3-inch stainless custom exhaust, and Spintech mufflers. AJ’s efforts reward the Chevelle with 725 hp and 700 lb-ft of torque. A GM 4L75E-HT automatic four-speed trans accepts the LSA’s fury and is backed by a 2,800-stall converter. A TAD 3-inch aluminum driveshaft dispenses power to a Strange 9-inch rearend loaded with a limited-slip posi, 4.56:1 gears, and 35-spline axles. ALL CHEVY PERFORMANCE [34] VOLUME 2 • ISSUE 18 • 2022

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TECH OWNER: AJ & Tina Schwichtenberg, Phoenix, Arizona VEHICLE: ’66 Chevy Chevelle Engine TYPE: GM LSA DISPLACEMENT: 376 ci COMPRESSION RATIO: 9.1:1 BORE: 4.065 inches STROKE: 3.622 inches CYLINDER HEADS: Aluminum L92-style port ROTATING ASSEMBLY: Forged crankshaft, powdered metal rods, hypereutectic aluminum pistons CAMSHAFT: Texas Speed Stage 2 LS3-B 0.641/0.649 lift and 235/235 duration at 0.050 INDUCTION: 1.9L Eaton TVS supercharger EXHAUST: GoodFellows custom headers, 3-inch stainless exhaust, 18-inch Spintech mufflers ANCILLARIES: American Billet accessory drive system, PRC radiator, custom GoodFellows valve covers, GoodFellows custom air intake, Eddie Motorsports hood hinges, Odyssey batteries OUTPUT: 725 hp and 700 lb-ft Drivetrain TRANSMISSION: GM 4L75E TORQUE CONVERTER: GM 2,800 stall REAR AXLE: Strange 9-inch rearend, limited-slip posi, 4.56 gears, Strange 35-spline axles Chassis & Brakes CHASSIS: Art Morrison GT Sport chassis FRONT SUSPENSION: Art Morrison Sport IFS control arms, C-6 spindles, Strange coilover shocks, 450-pound springs, adjustable spline sway bar, rack-and-pinion steering REAR SUSPENSION: Art Morrison triangulated four-bar, strange coilover shocks, 250-pound springs

BRAKES: Wilwood 14-inch rotors, six-piston calipers front and rear, Wilwood master cylinder, Wilwood proportion valve Wheels & Tires WHEELS: Budnik SKO (18x10 front, 20x12 rear) TIRES: Pirelli 275/35R18 front, 325/35R20 rear Interior UPHOLSTERY: Double loop black carpet, custom leather upholstery SEATS: Stock bench, custom black leather and blue stitched cover STEERING: ididit steering column, stock SS steering wheel SHIFTER: American Billet Modified C10 column shifter DASH: Stock, leather dashpad DOOR HANDLES: Clayton Machine Works PEDALS: Clayton Machine Works INSTRUMENTATION: Dakota Digital HVAC: Vintage Air Exterior BODYWORK AND PAINT: Victor Hebert of GoodFellows PAINT: PPG Cortez Silver HOOD: AMD cowl MIRRORS: Billet Rides (St. Petersburg, FL) GRILLE: Stock TRIM PIECES: OPGI BUMPERS: Stock, trimmed and tucked PLATING: Royal Plating (Tucson, AZ) TAILLIGHTS: LED

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AJ formed a fairly modern-styled cabin that confidently navigates the vintage ’60s vibe. The black leather door panels provide a sporty impression while upholding the Chevelle’s classic roots. That’s a stock dash populated with Dakota Digital gauges. Although the Bluetooth head unit looks factory, the twin set of 300-watt amps wired to a quad arrangement of 6x9 speakers ensure it’s not. The black double-loop carpet is repro, and the Vintage Air HVAC unit blows through the factory vents. The stock seat was covered in leather with blue accent and custom stitching. AJ preferred the stock bench seat so “Tina can snug up next to me when I take the wheel,” AJ playfully confirms. The American Billet column shifter, Clayton Machine Works interior door handles, window cranks, and pedals certainly add some performance panache. AJ and Tina are excited to point out that the car recently won the Builder’s Choice award at the 2022 Goodguys Spring Nationals in nearby Scottsdale

and are currently looking forward to taking the Chevelle on several cruises this summer. A trip to Nashville and Reno’s Hot August Nights are circled in the dog-eared Thomas Guide so far. “We just like cruising with some good friends,” AJ says. “To us, that’s what this hobby is all about.” Without giving away Tina’s age, we confess that she’s a few years beyond jailbait in every state in the union, but with her heavy right foot and tenancy to flex the LSA’s muscle, she’s on the fast track to hot water with local law enforcement. So, if you see a Cortez Silver ’66 Chevelle cruising the streets of Phoenix there’s a good chance that’s “Jailbait Tina” behind the wheel–a gal known to leave a lasting impression and a haze of tire smoke.

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BY RYAN MANSON

PHOTOGRAPHY BY THE AUTHOR

A LAYMAN’S GUIDE TO

lectronic Fuel Injection (EFI) systems can be a daunting mystery of sensors, wires, and components to those of us with a more “analog” background. Tuning by turning screws or swapping jets might seem second nature to some, but when it comes to fuel maps, electronic sensors, and laptop tuning, it starts to seem more like rocket science. But a familiarity to the science behind how an EFI setup works isn’t completely necessary to understand the gist of such a system. A basic understanding of the sensors involved and what they do and how they communicate with the computer (ECU) to provide the necessary fuel requirements can go a long way to gaining a grasp of how a modern EFI system works.

EFI

UNDERSTANDING THE TERMS, SENSORS, AND SYSTEMS

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2. MANIFOLD ABSOLUTE PRESSURE (MAP) SENSOR Single bar MAP sensors are typically installed from the factory on naturally aspirated applications. These sensors report barometric pressure times one, which is approximately 14.7 psi (atmospheric pressure). Boosted applications require a MAP sensor with more range since the turbo- or supercharger is increasing the pressure inside the intake. The amount of boost being introduced dictates the range of the MAP sensor. For example, a blower making 8 pounds of boost can see intake pressures around 22.7 psi, requiring a 2-Bar MAP sensor, which is capable of reading up to twice atmospheric pressure (29.4 psi).

SECTION 1: 1. SPEED DENSITY Speed density metering is the simpler of the two and determines fuel needs based on engine speed and air pressure. A manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor mounted on the intake or throttle body reads the intake manifold’s air pressure and, in conjunction with engine speed (rpm) read from the ignition coil or crank position sensor, this information is processed by the ECU and compared to a preprogrammed data table to determine engine airflow and, hence, fuel needs. Speed density metering is common among aftermarket four-barrel throttle body-type EFI systems like this Holley Super Sniper due to its simplicity of installation. 3. Here’s a Holley Terminator Stealth throttle body with the side bowl removed showing the hidden fuel injectors, MAP sensor, and fuel pressure sensor. The sensor on the left side is the throttle position sensor.

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Like a carburetor measures and delivers fuel to a hungry engine via 4. jets, ports, valves, metering blocks, and so on, an EFI system does the same by using a myriad of electronic sensors and a sophisticated computer (ECU) that gathers the information from said sensors, collates it, and compares it to a preprogrammed fuel map. Using the gathered specifics, the ECU determines when and for how long each fuel injector should open (known as pulse width). At idle, each fuel injector fires at a specific time (as programmed in the ECU) for a very short pulse width since the engine needs very little fuel to maintain a 14:1 air/fuel ratio. As engine speed increases, so does each injector’s pulse width, keeping up with the engine’s increasing fuel needs. The amount of time the fuel injector is opened is known as its duty cycle and is measured as a percent. So, if an injector has a 50 percent duty cycle, that injector is being held open an equal amount of time as it’s being held closed. A duty cycle over 80 percent is not recommended as that injector is reaching its maximum capacity and will soon SECTION 2: become “static” or held wide open. This can result in a lean condition 4. MASS AIRFLOW (MAF) that can cause catastrophic engine damage. It should be mentioned A mass airflow metering system uses a mass airflow (MAF) sensor mounted in front of the throttle that on most EFI systems, the fuel injectors operate using a “firing body to determine engine airflow and uses a preprogrammed data table to determine an engine’s order” similar to an ignition system, with each injector opening for the fuel needs based on the noted airflow. The MAF sensor measures airflow using a heated wire that maintains a determined temperature that is above ambient inlet air temps. Air passing over the wire same duration (duty cycle) at a predetermined time. That said, if one draws away the heat, the change in temperature is computed by the ECU, and the amount of current injector is reaching a certain percentage duty cycle, it can be assumed needed to heat the wire back up to its operating temp is converted and calculated into the amount of that the other injectors are doing the same. So, when it comes to duty airflow entering the inlet tract. Unlike speed density, mass airflow measures actual airflow, thus making it a more precise and flexible design when it comes to moderate engine changes (cam swap and so cycle, it’s typically referenced to as a single reading for the system. In on). The need for additional plumbing in front of the throttle body to mount the MAF sensor and an most cases, decreasing the duty cycle to a more manageable number external airbox/filter makes MAF metering designs slightly more cumbersome and difficult to install in a tight package, such as a vintage muscle car. is as simple as increasing injector size and adjusting the tune to suit. 5-6. MAF SENSOR A mass airflow system requires the MAF sensor to be mounted a certain distance from the throttle body in the inlet tract and can make for a difficult installation in a tight engine compartment. In this example, the MAF is installed in front of the alternator in the straight section of the inlet tract.

7. SECTION 3: ADDITIONAL SENSORS In addition to each system’s specific sensors, there are a handful of other sensors that may or may not be used, depending on the application, brand, and so on. These sensors work in conjunction with each other to provide different information to the computer to aid it in creating the best overall picture as it relates to the engine’s fuel, and even ignition, needs. Here’s a quick look at some of those sensors, where they are typically located, and what they do: 7. THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR (TPS) A throttle position sensor is mounted on the throttle shaft of the throttle body and is used to determine throttle position and provide further information to the ECU to determine engine airflow. ALL CHEVY PERFORMANCE [40] VOLUME 2 • ISSUE 18 • 2022

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8. INTAKE AIR TEMPERATURE (IAT) SENSOR An intake air temperature sensor measures the temperature of the incoming air stream in the intake manifold to determine changes in the air density.

9-10. OIL PRESSURE SENSOR Some OE and aftermarket EFI systems can monitor the engine’s oil pressure and make necessary adjustments to protect the engine in the case of a low-pressure situation (go into “limp mode” for instance). Most GM engines feature a port at the top of the rear of the block that accepts an oil pressure sensor, while LS-series engines have a block-off plate just above the oil filter that can be modified or replaced with a different plate that will also accept an oil pressure sensor.

11. COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR (CTS) The amount of fuel that an engine requires changes due to its operating temperature, so it’s necessary for the EFI system to know the temperature of the engine’s coolant to determine how much fuel the engine needs. Cold start situations require different fueling requirements as opposed to hot start situations, for example. Many aftermarket EFI systems will not go into closed loop until the engine reaches a set operating temperature, so a CTS is very important for proper, reliable operation. Electric fans controlled by the EFI ECU are also dependent on accurate cooling temps to turn on and off at the proper time. Coolant temperature sensors are usually mounted in the intake or cylinder heads with direct access to the coolant passage.

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12-13. O2 SENSOR Most modern EFI systems use wideband O2 sensors, either single or a pair, mounted on either side of the exhaust. These measure the ratio between oxygen and fuel levels exiting the engine and send this information to the ECU, where it can react quickly and make the appropriate changes to the fueling of the engine.

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14. CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR The Crankshaft Position Sensor is located on the passenger side rear of LS engine blocks and sends a signal to the ECU relating to engine rpm and crankshaft angle or position. The Crankshaft Position Sensor is triggered by either a 24x or 58x reluctor wheel mounted on the crankshaft inside the engine block, just visible at the bottom of the photo. ALL CHEVY PERFORMANCE [42] VOLUME 2 • ISSUE 18 • 2022

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15-16. CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR The camshaft position sensor relies on a hall effect sensor and a reluctor wheel mounted on the camshaft to deliver precise camshaft position to the ECU. Many early LS engines and some late truck blocks had the camshaft position sensor mounted at the top rear of the block, near the aforementioned oil pressure port. When GM introduced the 58x crank reluctor to increase the resolution of the previous generation’s 24x, they moved the camshaft position sensor to the front of the block and increased it to what’s known as a 4x trigger. 17-18. KNOCK SENSOR A knock sensor detects sounds and vibrations inside the engine block and sends that information to the ECU where it is processed and determined to be detrimental or not. Using the information gleaned from a knock sensor allows the ECU to detect issues such as detonation and react responsively (retard timing and so on), preventing potential engine damage. These are common on modern engines, such as the LS and LT line, and can be found mounted in the valley cover under the intake manifold or on each side of the engine block (LS3, for example). 19. This LS3 swap features a drive-by-wire throttle body that has an internal TPS as well as an electronically driven butterfly valve controlled by the ECU. Directly behind the throttle body is the MAP sensor and mounted in front of the throttle body, along the straight portion of the inlet tract, is the MAF sensor.

When it comes to modern EFI systems, the two most common methods of metering and maintaining the proper air/ fuel ratio are speed density and mass airflow. Most aftermarket EFI kits utilize the speed density method, as it’s the simpler of the two when it comes to packaging and allows for a more userfriendly installation. Mass airflow, on the other hand, while technically more accurate, can be difficult when it comes to retrofitting into an older muscle car due to specific air inlet requirements. Let’s take a closer look at the two different methods and how they control the fueling requirements of a modern engine.

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SOURCES CHEVROLET PERFORMANCE chevrolet.com/performance-parts CLAMPDOWN COMPETITION clampdowncomp.com HOLLEY PERFORMANCE PRODUCTS (866) 464-6553 holley.com ALL CHEVY PERFORMANCE [44] VOLUME 2 • ISSUE 18 • 2022

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BY JOHN MACHAQUEIRO

PHOTOGRAPHY BY THE AUTHOR

MAXST LOU JASPER’S ’69 PENSKE “BLUE MAXI”–INSPIRED CAMARO

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TREET A

utomotive tastes come in various forms and are often influenced by those around us. For many of us, once that interest is ignited, a lifelong journey begins. In Lou Jasper’s case, his late Uncle Joey ignited his passion for all things automotive. He recalls, “When I was about 5 years old, he pulled into our driveway in a ’71 ’Cuda. It had a 440 with a six-pack and I thought it was the greatest car.” By 15 he was wrenching on a 400 small-block to drop into a ’77 Chevelle, however, at that age his mind was set on something smaller and lighter, and he eventually landed a Fathom Green ’69 Camaro. “It looked good from about 20 feet,” he explains. “It had rust in the quarters and floor and the trunk was rusted out.” He eventually put the restomod-flavored Camaro on the road with the 400 and often indulged in some drag racing at Maryland’s 75-80 Dragway. It saw very limited use during his college years, and it wasn’t until his family and career were in place that he was able to get back to it. A new house allowed him to finally store the car, but a month after moving it there, he went for a ride and parked it at a train station–that was the last time he saw it. “I parked it there for the day, when I came back it was gone,” he recalls. That theft was devastating, and as a result his appetite for most things automotive soured.

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After a decade away, his wife, Michele, once again ignited that flame with another ’69 as a birthday gift. “She bought it because she knew that I loved my first ’69 and that I was heartbroken when it was stolen,” he explains. “We knew building the new car would be a great opportunity to bond with my sons, Kyle and Landon, and to teach them how to work with their hands and minds. We just planned to restore it and have fun driving it.” As fate would have it, she found another Fathom Green ’69 Camaro that was RS flavored. Its condition mirrored his previous one with the same rust issues. They completely dismantled the car and began a rotisserie restoration in their home garage. He recalls, “My boys and I completed extensive metalwork on the structure, frame, and body. We also began restoring all the mechanicals and rebuilding the engine.” A casual encounter in 2012 drastically altered his direction. He recounts, “I met Brian Garfield at my wife’s high school reunion. We were talking about racing and my restoration project and he asked if I considered SCCA Solo.” At the time Garfield was on the SCCA’s Washington D.C. Region (WDCR) committee and was instrumental in pointing Lou toward the C-Prepared (CP) category. That category was a struggle for Lou because most CP cars are not streetable when fully prepped and he didn’t want to alter the iconic look of the ’69 Camaro. In late 2013 the SCCA introduced the Classic American Muscle (CAM) class for 2014. It was a perfect fit because it allowed for almost unlimited upgrades without sacrificing the identity of the car. Having charted his path, he found plenty of information on the Pro Touring forums and websites, however, his biggest source of inspiration came from the Penske Camaro campaigned by Mark Donohue in the Trans Am series in 1969, along with the “Blue Maxi,” which was a project between Car and Driver magazine and Penske’s racing organization in an effort to create the ideal American GT. Toward the end of 2014, with the bodywork finalized, the Camaro reached the paint stage. Blue was the desired choice and he settled on a shade of blue from Sherwin-Williams called Deep Blue Metallic. From there the emphasis shifted to the suspension and weight reduction. For that he retained the reinforced stock subframe but added weld-in connectors from Detroit Speed and 16-gauge steel reinforcements to a few stress points on the unibody structure, along with a set of custom-fabricated rear wheeltubs. The suspension plan focused on handling and fitting the most rubber possible under all four corners. Attached to that front frame were Speedtech Performance A-arms, CPP spindles, Viking dual-adjustable coilovers, Unisteer power rack-andpinion, and a Hotchkis antiroll bar, while the rear was treated to a set of Viking Crusader dual-adjustable shocks, a Hotchkis antiroll bar, and a modified SpeedTech torque arm. This combination’s main purpose was to allow the fitment of the Boze Lateral-G wheels and Yokohama Advan A052 skins. Up front they measure 18×9.5 and wear 275/35R18 rubber, and out back they measure 18×11.5 with 315/30R18. Braking was sorted out with Baer hardware at all four corners with their Pro Plus 14-inch rotors and six-piston calipers up front, while at the rear SS4+ 13-inch rotors and four-piston calipers were fitted. ALL CHEVY PERFORMANCE [48] VOLUME 2 • ISSUE 18 • 2022

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TECH OWNER: Lou Jasper, Westminster, Maryland VEHICLE: ’69 Chevrolet Camaro RS Engine TYPE: Dart Machinery SHP block DISPLACEMENT: 400 ci COMPRESSION RATIO: 11.5:1 CYLINDER HEADS: Dart Machinery Pro-1 230CC ROTATING ASSEMBLY: Callies forged crankshaft, Callies H-beam forged connecting rods, ICON forged aluminum pistons VALVETRAIN: Harland Sharp shaft-mount rockers CAMSHAFT: Comp Cams custom grind ASSEMBLY BY: Maryland Performance Center (short-block), Lou Jasper (top end) INTAKE: Edelbrock Super Victor 2 (street), Offenhauser Cross Ram (race) INDUCTION: Holley Terminator 950-cfm Stealth with HP ECU and 1-inch CNC A1 aluminum spacers from High Velocity Heads, single Terminator unit for street use, dual Terminator units for road race IGNITION: MSD 6AL, MSD billet distributor EXHAUST: Dynatech MuscleMaxx headers stepped 1¾ to 17/8 primaries with 3.5-inch collectors, 3-inch stainless round tubing with MagnaFlow mufflers, an H-pipe (street) by Lou and Landon Jasper, 3.5-inch stainless oval tubing, side exit, Jet-Hot coated to match headers, no mufflers (race) by Quality Custom Rides (Lancaster, PA) ANCILLARIES: Billet Specialties valve covers, four-row aluminum radiator, Moroso aluminum water pump, OEM fan, Powermaster 120A alternator, Tanks Inc. EFI fuel tank, Summit 14-inch round air cleaner (street), reproduction Crossram oval air cleaner (race), Billet Specialties pulleys, Detroit Speed power steering pump, K&N air filters, Braille 21-pound AGM battery, American Autowire Classic Update harness, Newport Engineering wiper motor OUTPUT: 621 hp at 6,800 rpm, 546 lb-ft torque at 5,700 rpm Drivetrain TRANSMISSION: TREMEC T56 Magnum six-speed, McLeod Racing aluminum flywheel with steel insert, McCleod RTX twin-disc clutch, Quicktime SFI-rated bellhousing DRIVESHAFT: 3.5-inch aluminum from Precision Shaft Technologies REAR AXLE: Redbird Speed 9-inch, 4.30:1 gears, Wavetrac limited slip, 35-spline Moser axles, Baer Tracker full floater hubs

Chassis & Suspension CHASSIS: Modified factory subframe, fully welded seams, reinforced suspension connection points, Detroit Speed subframe connectors, custom-fabricated rear wheelwells; all fabrication by Lou and Landon Jasper FRONT SUSPENSION: Speedtech Performance high-clearance A-arms, CPP spindles, Viking double-adjustable coilovers, Unisteer power rack-and-pinion, Hotchkis antiroll bar REAR SUSPENSION: Viking Crusader double-adjustable shocks, Hotchkis Sport Suspension antiroll bar, modified SpeedTech torque arm by Lou and Landon Jasper BRAKES: Baer Pro Plus 14-inch rotors, six-piston calipers (front), Baer SS4+ 13-inch rotors, four-piston calipers (rear) MASTER CYLINDER: Baer Remaster Wheels & Tires WHEELS: Boze Lateral-G, 18×9.5 front, Boze Lateral-G 18×11.5 rear TIRES: Yokohama Advan A052 275/35R18 (front), Yokohama Advan A052 315/30R18 (rear) Interior UPHOLSTERY: Custom upholstered Procar seats covered with vinyl to replicate the look of ’69 OEM comfort weave seats, reproduction GM seatbelts (street), Corbeau five-point harness (race), original restored door panels, reproduction carpet. Rear seat upholstery by DMA Upholstery (Westminster, MD). All other upholstery work performed by owners. STEERING: GM steering column, Grant removable steering wheel hub, Grant steering wheel SHIFTER: TREMEC DASH: Stock with modified ashtray to accept an Auto Meter wideband O2 gauge INSTRUMENTATION: Auto Meter Sport Comp 2 and Elite Exterior BODYWORK: Lou, Kyle, and Landon Jasper PAINT: Sherwin-Williams Automotive basecoat/clearcoat Custom Deep Blue Metallic and Ivory White PAINTED BY: Joe MacInnes, Chris’ Classic Restorations (Frederick, MD) BODY MODS: AMD 2-inch aluminum cowl induction hood, AMD aluminum front lower valence panel and fender extensions, smoothed firewall, fabricated transmission tunnel, mini-tubs, custom-fabricated cowl hood vent GRILLE: Reproduction RS with Detroit Speed 12V motor assemblies BUMPERS: Front and rear reproduction TRUNK LID: AMD reproduction GRAPHICS: Mike Snyder, AutoXGraphics.com (Colorado Springs, CO)

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Weight reduction was a constant, so items like the A/C were deleted, while the steel hood and lower valance gave way to AMD aluminum replacements. Those weight savings also carried over into the interior. He replaced the stock seats with Procar units stitched in a comfort weave to mimic the factory look. The rest of the original Midnight Green interior was also swapped out with new black replacements. Auto Meter gauges and a Grant steering wheel with a removable steering wheel hub were also installed.

Victor 2 intake with a Holley Terminator Stealth EFI or a modified Offenhauser Cross Ram with a pair of 950-cfm Terminator Stealth units. The last item on the drivetrain list was the rear. For that he opted to go with a Redbird Speed Ford 9-inch full-floater stuffed with 4.30:1 gears, Wavetrac limited slip, and 35-spline Moser axles. Dynatech MuscleMaxx headers handle exhaust duties with 3-inch stainless round tubing mated to a pair of MagnaFlow mufflers for the street, while 3.5-inch Stainless oval pipes with side exits are used for track days.

Underhood the 350 was in exceptionally good condition with some mild aftermarket upgrades, however, the single-plane intake and oversized carb weren’t suitable for track use. Like the rest of the car, it was also given a refresh that Lou performed in his garage. The addition of a dual plane intake and the appropriately sized carburetor and headers were a game changer. When it came to a gearbox, the stock TH350 never factored into the equation, so he went with a TREMEC T56 Magnum six-speed. In 2017 the 350 was retired. It had served its purpose by giving Lou a runner-up spot in the WDCR region CAM class in 2016. The new mill started with a 400ci Dart SHP block fitted with a Callies forged rotating assembly, including H-beam connecting rods and ICON forged aluminum pistons. Induction was upgraded with either an Edelbrock Super

Beyond the competition, the Camaro has also been used to raise cancer awareness for the St. Baldrick’s Foundation. “My wife saw a story in the paper of a girl who needed a bone marrow transplant,” he explains. “We were moved by the story and went to see if we were suitable donors. We weren’t, but we began volunteering at annual fund-raising events and have continued for the last 11 years. The car’s graphics are designed to be reminiscent of the Penske ’69 Camaro, but now represent a cause we deeply care about.”

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The Camaro is a work in progress, with future plans calling for a rollcage and more performance improvements to make the car even more capable in a wide variety of racing events, while keeping it as a family oriented endeavor.

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BY JESSE KISER

PHOTOGRAPHY BY THE AUTHOR

he LS engine has long been the king of high-output budget builds. Grab a junkyard truck engine, add a cheap turbo, and make quadruple-digit power. We start our supercharged 1,200hp LS build with a short-block capable of considerable, reliable power on a budget. There are millions of forum pages dedicated to the topic of LS budget builds, so tread lightly. The sloppy fans will tell you the true budget LS is one that goes straight from the junkyard in between the fenders of your hot rod. There’s some truth to that, as the LS features many architectural improvements over its predecessor, the small-block Chevy. Advancements include a Y-block design with six main bolts (four vertical, two horizontal), extra-long head bolts, a taller deck, better flowing heads, larger cam journals, and a cam centerline that’s higher in the block. “The GM engineers have done a very good job. If you don’t get too far off the map from OE, you shouldn’t have to make many more changes,” Dennis Borem, owner of Pro Motor Engines (PME) says. “These engines are built to last hundreds of thousands of miles.” Record chasers have made around 1,200 estimated flywheel horsepower with stock bottom ends, and around 1,800 hp with stock blocks. But, we want this

engine to remain versatile with the ability to street drive and use for later testing, so we need a better rotating assembly that can reliably handle the abuse. “You can make that kind of power with a stock engine, but it takes a very skilled tuner and an optimized setup,” Tick Performance owner Jonathan Atkins says, who volunteered to build this engine in conjunction with PME. “The better rods and pistons may survive a tuning misstep that stock parts would not, but really they’ll perform better and last much longer.” It seems 1,200 hp is that rough maximum for the basic aftermarket support. “When you start climbing over that power range, the price of the components goes significantly higher,” Atkins says. Companies like Summit Racing and ARP make bolt-in components to help bring us to that level of reliable power. The complete iron-block 5.3L engine was $300 from a friend, with unknown details. Depending on the condition, a complete and running LS runs between $300 and $1,200. So, we’re off to a good start. We initially thought it to be a run-of-the-mill Gen III LM7 engine due to its valley cover (Gen III valley covers feature two large holes for the knock sensors), but once we pulled the heads, we realized it uses Gen IV head bolts (Gen III uses two different length bolt, and Gen IV uses all the same length).

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1. Purchased from friend Matt Goins, we believed our $300 LS was a Gen III LM7 5.3L but discovered it’s a Gen IV 5.3L with a Gen III valley cover. This reminds us of the important lesson: always check before ordering parts. We didn’t want Active Fuel Management or DOD and didn’t care about the rods since we planned to change them anyway, however, if you’re doing a stock-bottom-end setup you want Gen IV LS rods, as they’re stronger.

2. We took the block back home and performed a ½-inch head stud upgrade with a Tick Performance ½-inch head stud fixture kit. This allows us to perform a machining job on our home workbench with a basic cordless drill. We borrowed the fixture from Tick Performance owner Jonathan Atkins, which didn’t hit our total bill and saved us additional machining costs. Plus, ½-inch head studs are cheaper than standard head studs. We mount the large aluminum fixture on the block using leftover head bolts.

3. We measure the depth of the holes and the top of the threads. We position the supplied bushing in place, finger-tight the setscrew, drill to the bottom of the hole with the smaller 27/64-inch drill bit, and check the depth against our measurement to make sure we fully drilled the hole. Then, swap the bushing, set the stop on the 33/64-inch drill based on the depth of the threads from the top of the block. We drill to the stop, it’s under an inch in the hole. Of course, we blow out the holes with compressed air in between drilling, use cutting fluid on the drills, and tap and repeat the process on all holes.

4. Finally, we slide a bushing onto the provided spiral flute tap (a beautiful tool designed to push the metal up and out as it taps) and tap the hole by hand. We repeat the process for the entire block, swapping out head bolts for new ½-inch head studs to hold the fixture in place. It’s the same process for aluminum blocks, but much easier on the hands.

5. Pro Motor Engines (PME) weighs the new Summit Pro Series rod and piston kit and uses that data to balance the crank. The formula is the rotating assembly “big end,” two rods, and two pairs of bearings, plus 50 percent of the reciprocating weight, which is a calculated total of the other end of the rods and everything on top of them (rings, pistons, and so on). Then add 3-5 grams to account for oil. That weight is added to the crank and then balanced. “Some people overbalance a race engine, but not for this,” Dennis Borem, owner of PME says. “They’ll do that with higher-rpm applications for better harmonics, but it’s kind of a science and people have their theories. For street applications, 50 percent of reciprocating is the standard here.” ALL CHEVY PERFORMANCE [53] VOLUME 2 • ISSUE 18 • 2022

6. It’s recommended to perform the ½-inch head stud upgrade before final machining, but according to Tick Performance customers have done it after, too. PME decked, magnafluxed for cracks, checked the main and cam bearing surfaces, and line honed. The block was bored 0.025 over and then honed an additional 0.005 inch (for a total of 0.030 over). It’s common to bore an iron block to LS1 sizing (3.898-inch LS1 bore versus 3.780inch 5.3L bore), but we don’t need the extra cubes or extra machining costs as the price increases when boring more than 0.030 over. To get started with assembly, we install ARP main studs (PN 234-5608, $229.99) along with new Sealed Power bearings (PN SLP-7298MA10, $84.99). Atkins has already installed the cam bearings before we arrived, Dura-Bond Cam bearing set (PN CHP-23, $40.99).

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7. Atkins measures the crank journals with a mic and finds them all very close to 2.5485 inches—exactly like we expected as PME turned the crank 0.010 inches. We transfer that measurement to the dial bore gauge and check the journals. We discovered all are within a couple tenths of 0.0030-inch clearance. “For something you’d drive a lot, I’d say around 0.0025 clearance,” Atkins says. “But, if you’re shooting for a big number, 0.0030 would be good, but it’s getting a little on the loose side.” With an aluminum block LS, we’d run 0.0005 tighter, as clearances get looser when the engine warms up. The nodular iron crank will have some flex when making power, so clearance will allow for some movement. We make no changes to our bearings and lay the crank in place with Red Line assembly lube. 8. According to Summit Racing, the Pro Series Rod and Piston kit is tested to over 1,200 hp. We opt for the standard 3.622 stroke with a 2cc dome piston. This will net us with around 10.4 to 11:1 compression, depending on the head chamber size. To the old-school guys that may seem high for a boosted application, but modern experience has shown otherwise. PME offers cylinder heads in various chamber sizes, so we have some freedom moving forward.

9. On the bench, we measure the ARP rod bolts for stretch, then torque them per the instructions, starting with 30 lb-ft and then a final pass of 50 degrees (77 lb-ft per our torque wrench). The bolts are within the recommended 0.004- to 0.005-inch stretch. So, to make our job easier, we simply torque all rod bolts to 30 lb-ft then 50 degrees. We torque every rod with our King Bearings Rod Bearings (PN KGB-CR807HPN010). Our ideal range is 0.002 to 0.0025 inch, and most measure around 0.0025 and 0.0026 inches. Like the crank, our rod clearances are a bit on the loose side, but that’s fine for our 1,000-plus hp street application.

ALL CHEVY PERFORMANCE [54] VOLUME 2 • ISSUE 18 • 2022

VISION REALIZED

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10. The kit includes Summit Racing file-fit piston rings, which are advertised to provide maximum ring seal, reduced friction, and tensions optimized for wet sump engines. The bore is about 0.003 and 0.0035 clearance—spot-on for what PME expected—and the oil rings have the minimum 0.015 inch, as advertised. Taking experience and a couple different recommended instructions into account, we decide on a ring gap of 0.024 inch top and 0.026 inch for the second. A little wider than recommended street blower application but it gives us freedom for increased boost. “Heck, you can run over 0.030 and it’ll run good, just use more oil,” Atkins says.

11. The 2618 alloy pistons are great for boost and nitrous applications, with maximum ring land thickness and pressure-fed pin oiling with durable chromium steel wristpins. Specially profiled and coated piston skirts make for a tight piston-to-wall clearance. Generous valve reliefs for extra piston-to-valve clearance in case we run a radical cam.

12. Finally, we check compression height, as the block has been decked. We find 0.002 in the hole, which is important when we find the right heads. ALL CHEVY PERFORMANCE [56] VOLUME 2 • ISSUE 18 • 2022

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HARD PARTS BRAND ARP

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All Machining Costs Engine Assembly

$900 $750

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TOTAL

$1,650

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PRICE $164.99 $99.99 $49.99 $59.99 $389.99 $764.95

GRAND TOTAL $4,575.87* *Short-block only, does not include lifter and head gaskets. Prices subject to change.

13. The hard part is done, but it’s arguably not a short-block until the cam, lifters, and front cover are installed. Lifters are another area of great debate as they can range greatly in price. The LS7 drop-line lifters have long been the go-to performance lifter for under $200, but they tend to be on backorder. Morel makes a great drop-in lifter at around $200 retail (PN MRL-7717). We’ll likely tune the engine for 800 rwhp for street use, so the Morel 7717 would work. But to make 1,200 hp comfortably—the point of the article—we’ll likely spend the extra dough for link-bar lifters. Morel Tie-Bar-style hydraulic roller lifters are $498.37 (PN 5290) and Johnson Tie-Bar slow leak down lifters cost $848.68 (PN 2116LSR). It’s up to an extra $500 in this build, but it’s the one area where performance LS engines seem to have the most failures, so it’s extra insurance.

A set of stock-style pistons would cost around $300, but for only $900 more we can upgrade to the Summit Racing Pro Series forged rod and piston kit. PME magnafluxed and ground the stock crank 0.0010 inch, so we opted to save some money and keep it. This kit is great for boosted applications and includes pistons, piston rings, wristpins, ARP rod bolts, and both PME and Atkins have had experience with the kits. Boost is the answer, no matter the question. Another technique for keeping boost in the engine is upgrading from factory 11mm head bolts to ½-inch ARP head studs. We use the Tick Performance DIY ½ Head Stud Fixture Kit, which allowed us to do the job at home and save on machining costs. This upgrade is another heavily debated topic, likely because you can’t perform this operation easily on small-block Chevys as the boltholes are too close to the water jackets. The LS does not have this problem, and there’s plenty of meat in our iron block. “You’re clamping two parts together, so you’re increasing clamping force. It’s cheap insurance for a boosted application,” Borem says. The stock head bolts and studs torque at lower yields than the ½ inch, which require a final torque of 120 lb-ft. It requires much more force to lift the head with these studs compared to stock size. We start by stripping the engine and sending the block to PME in Mooresville, North Carolina. They’re known for circle-track race engines, supplying Super Stock Late Model, NASCAR, and Trans Am TA packages. They provide sealed engines to various series, including the Trans Am TA2, which uses an LS2, so they know their LS stuff. PME stripped and cleaned the block by heating off the gunk and tumbling it.

SOURCES AUTOMOTIVE RACING PRODUCTS (800) 826-3045 arp-bolts.com PRO MOTOR ENGINES (704) 664-6800 pmeengines.com SUMMIT RACING (800) 230-3030 summitracing.com TICK PERFORMANCE (336) 719-0599 tickperformance.com

ALL CHEVY PERFORMANCE [58] VOLUME 2 • ISSUE 18 • 2022

Go Low With AME! 1948 Chevy Fleetline built by MetalWorks

Get A Custom CAD-Engineered Chassis With Air Spring-Plus™ Suspension For Your Ride For many enthusiasts Art Morrison Enterprises is known primarily for its series of GT Sport chassis that provide corner-carving handling, performance and a contemporary stance with bolt-on convenience. But if you dig deeper, you’ll see that AME is also a pioneer in air suspensions dating back to the late 1990s, when Art and the AME engineering team developed one of the industry’s ﬁrst successful classic truck/street rod air suspension packages. And it has evolved ever since, employing the latest technologies.

1971

The important thing to remember is that AME’s engineering and manufacturing team can design a custom chassis to your exact needs, and build it with industry-leading craftsmanship. If you want to tackle your build incrementally, AME can custom-build front and rear clips to your requirements. And don’t forget that an investment in a Morrison chassis pays big dividends in performance, driving enjoyment and vehicle value.

2021

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BY SCOTTY LACHENAUER

PHOTOGRAPHY BY THE AUTHOR

ALL CHEVY PERFORMANCE [60] VOLUME 2 • ISSUE 18 • 2022

JOEY DEAN SENDS HIS ’66 CHEVELLE WAGON SKYWARD

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oey Dean has always been a big fan of ’66 Chevelles. In 2009 he came across a rust-free Chevelle wagon from California and he instantly fell in love. It was something different and he knew right away that he had to have it.

Joey has always enjoyed building things that were unique to what the other guys were doing. “I started as a youngster with Legos, erector sets, and model cars. I graduated to garbage picking bikes and rebuilding them and then moved onto go-karts and minibikes. When I went to the 1974

New York Auto Show, it was a big mind-bender. It all was influential and still inspires me when I build my hot rods today,” Joey states. Like many of us, Joey’s love of all things Chevy commenced at a very young age. “Both my older sister and brother had ’68 and ’69 Camaros as their first cars,” Joey remembers. “That made me want a Camaro of my own.” However, it was another hot ride that finally gripped Joey’s heart and just wouldn’t let go. After spotting his neighbor’s boyfriend rolling up in a sweet ’66 396 SS Chevelle, his love affair with that year and model took off.

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At age 16, young Joey snatched up his first ’66 Chevelle. He jumped right in and proceeded to rebuild the ride in his parents’ garage. During the resto, he brought its 327ci mill to his Votech school and rebuilt the small-block into a feisty powerplant. Once finished, the car hit the street as his high school ride. Though that car is long gone, it started a bond between man and home-brewed machine, which continues to this day. The ’66 wagon that Joey was smitten with was a no-brainer for him to buy. “I quickly struck a deal with the owner and brought it home. I just wanted to get it out on the road as soon as possible,” Joey says. Having all the skills necessary to get this long-form Chevelle back on the street, Joey dug in and got to work. “At first I just did some basic hot-rodding to it to get it out on the road—the bare-bones necessities,” Joey states. “I drove it that way for years but deep down I knew it was destined to become a full-fledged gasser!”

Joey did a photoshopped rendition of it early on, showing the wagon with a straight-axle and typical gasser amenities. He hung that picture on his wall as a reminder of what needed to be done. Finally, that day in 2019 arrived and he was ready to roll. Having amassed a good collection of parts for the build, Joey started the transformation in September of 2019. However, there are a few things that he didn’t need to buy since he prefers to build his own parts whenever possible. That started at a young age due to not being able to find what he needed or just couldn’t afford. Once Joey got rolling, the first job at hand was getting the massive fenderwell headers to fit. The straight-axle came next, then welding in the spring perches and getting the geometry uniform. Typically, with gassers the steering needed some figuring out as well. “I shortened the column 3 inches and installed three universal joints to get around those giant headers,” Joey informs.

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TECH OWNER: Joey Dean, Rahway, New Jersey VEHICLE: ’66 Chevelle Wagon Engine TYPE: First-gen small-block Chevy DISPLACEMENT: 327 ci COMPRESSION RATIO: 10.1 BLOCK: Stock cast BORE: 4.000 STROKE: 3.250 CYLINDER HEADS: 350 LT1 ROTATING ASSEMBLY: Steel crank with Manley pistons and rods VALVETRAIN: Lunati lifters, push rods, roller rockers, and valvesprings, 2.02/1.60 valves CAMSHAFT: Lunati Voo Doo cam 0.489/0.504 intake/exhaust lift INDUCTION: Edelbrock Dual Quad RPM air-gap intake manifold with two Edelbrock 500-cfm Performance carburetors IGNITION: MSD EXHAUST: Hooker Competition fenderwell headers with electric cutouts and full exhaust with Flowmaster mufflers ANCILLARIES: Stock fuel tank with handmade fuel sump welded in and aluminum fuel line connected to a high-volume fuel pump OUTPUT: 400 hp estimated Drivetrain TRANSMISSION: Muncie M20 four-speed, billet steel flywheel, Ram HDX clutch and Lakewood scatter shield REAR AXLE: GM 12-bolt posi with 3.42 gears

Chassis SUSPENSION FRONT: WACS custom width chromoly tube axle made to owner specs, parallel leaf springs with custom-built hangers SUSPENSION REAR: Custom-built 6½-feet ladder bars connected to a custom weld-in subframe, Panhard bar, performance stock-style coil springs with height adjustability, stock four-link arms removed BRAKES: GM front disc and calipers, line-lock, rear drum WHEELS: Halibrand knockoffs, 15x4 front, 15x10 rear TIRES: Hoosier Pro-street 26x7.50R15 front 29x12.5R15 rear Interior UPHOLSTERY: Stock with custom diamond pattern door panels MATERIAL: Vinyl SEATS: Stock STEERING: Stock steering box with custom steering links SHIFTER: Hurst Competition Plus with reverse lockout DASH: Stock INSTRUMENTS: Column-mounted Sun Super Tach, analog Auto Meter Autogage cluster under the dash AUDIO: Modern stock appearing radio, two 6x9 speakers behind front door panel and two 6x9 speakers in rear panel HVAC: Stock Exterior PAINT: By previous owner with additional paintwork by owner and George Ladis HOOD: 2-inch cowl hood modified by owner to accept factory ’66 SS hood inserts EXTRAS: Tailgate factory trim and badging removed, tow-tabs fabricated as NMW tow tab appearance BUMPERS: Stock FABRICATION: All fabrication, engineering, building, and assembly by owner

ALL CHEVY PERFORMANCE [64] VOLUME 2 • ISSUE 18 • 2022

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Other major issues included cutting back the frame for the wagon’s drag link and relocating the rearend to build the suspension. “I figured out the ladder bar length and placement and then built a one-off subframe and welded that in,” Joey points out. That subframe has mounting points for the ladder bars and a driveshaft loop for added safety. It also has cutouts for the exhaust and tabs for the narrowed crossmember. And what about those homemade ladder bars? Powdercoated vivid yellow, they prominently stand out. “I built them one piece at a time. Tube-notched and TIG-welded, they are about 6½ feet long!” Joey says with a grin. Other add-ons include taller spring perches so he could run stock tailpipes and coil springs, and new upper shock mounts to make room for Panhard bar and mounts. So, what did Joey choose for motor-vation in this gassed up wagon? Remember that engine he built at Votech? Well, that Chevelle is long gone, but its 327 found a new home in the wagon. And why not? He had built it up right from the start using ported LT1 heads, an Edelbrock dual-quad Performer air-gap intake, and a Lunati Voodoo cam. A pair of Edelbrock 500-cfm Performance carbs feed the little beast all the juice it can handle. Those nasty headers are from Hooker and Joey added some electric cutouts to let everyone know when he’s comin’ through! All this power is shifted through a built Muncie M20 and sent to a Chevy 12-bolt stuffed with 3.42 gears. GM front discs give some extra stopping power to the stock Chevy drums out back. On the exterior, Joey was lucky enough to save the paintjob that came on the wagon, though he needed to do some touch-ups and paint the new hood. This beautiful bonnet is a piece he fabricated himself. “It’s probably the only 2-inch cowl hood in the world with the factory ’66 SS grilles fabricated into it. I’ve never seen another,” Joey says. As far as the interior goes, it’s got a Hurst Competition shifter with reverse lockout bangin’ the behemoth through the gears. Other period add-ons include the Sun Super Tach on the column and an Auto Meter analog Autogage cluster installed under the dash. The rest of the interior is relatively stock, keeping the period-perfect look. The wagon hit the ground running in 2020, making waves at the local car shows and meetups. The Chevelle never fails to grab a gaggle of onlookers mesmerized by the jacked-up war wagon. Are there any upgrade plans for the wagon in the future? “Right now, I’m happy with the car in every way, however, I can see an infusion of power coming at some point,” Joey quips. “I can see stuffing a built-to-the-hilt 427 big-block underhood coming sooner rather than later. ALL CHEVY PERFORMANCE [65] VOLUME 2 • ISSUE 18 • 2022

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TERM PAPER

PART 1: RESTOMOD AND DAY TWO RESTO

BY NICK LICATA, JEFF SMITH, STEVE MAGNANTE & TONY HUNTIMER PHOTOGRAPHY BY TOMMY LEE BYRD, GRANT COX, RYAN MILLER, SCOTTY LACHENAUER, RICHARD PRINCE, CHUCK VRANAS & TODD RYDEN

JEFF SMITH Jeff has been the editor at Car Craft, Hot Rod, and Chevy High Performance magazines, and is a current contributor to All Chevy Performance along with a plethora of other ventures he’s got cooking, including the Car Guy Confessions podcast that you can also subscribe to on YouTube.

As the history of vintage muscle cars remain anchored in time, it further distances itself from its origin. This separation can sometimes lend itself to muscle car terminology becoming a bit askew. But let’s keep in mind that while muscle car modifications shift, so should the definitions.

STEVE MAGNANTE Steve Mags began writing for car magazines back in 1991 and was technical editor at Hot Rod magazine and since then has editorially contributed to more magazines and websites than we can count, written multiple automotive books, and was host of Motor Trend TV’s Junkyard Gold and Steve Magnante’s Super Models. His vast knowledge is most evident while on the block during the Barrett-Jackson collector car auction. Listen to his podcast Steve Mags Muscle Car Show and catch his always-informative column “Bowtie Boneyard” in this here magazine.

s time moves forward it tends to distance itself from historical accuracy. In the vintage muscle car world [we] have a plethora of documentation through good old-fashioned magazines from the early days of hot rodding, but while the images hold visual truth, the spoken words of those present at the time tend to become a bit distorted as the stories get passed down from generation to generation—not intentional, it’s just a natural progression, or regression in this case.

So, we’ve reached out to a few knowledgeable and respected industry gearheads who have been on the editorial side of the car magazine world for decades to get their interpretation of some terminology common with muscle car build styles, and if said terms are subjective, standardized, or simply need a bit of updating. In part one of our terminology series, we’ll introduce our panel of experienced hot rod types and let them share their interpretation of Day Two Restos and Restomods. As always, we encourage you to chime in with your thoughts, so send an email to: nlicata@inthegaragemedia.com.

TONY HUNTIMER Tony has written automotive books on upgrading vintage Camaros, contributed numerous technical articles to a multitude of publications, including having a regular column in the now-defunct Camaro Performers magazine. Today, he owns Camaro.Family, the largest Camaro-only IG page with close to half a million followers, and he also manages social media for the Big Red Camaro. His knowledge of muscle cars, especially Camaros, is extensive. So, let’s get started.

ALL CHEVY PERFORMANCE [66] VOLUME 2 • ISSUE 18 • 2022

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DAY TWO RESTO Jeff Smith: My take on this term is what you would typically do to your car on the second day you own it. This is very generational. I couldn’t afford much on my first car, a ’66 four-speed GTO, because it had most of what I wanted. I added a stereo because it needed tunes, but I quickly learned it wasn’t fast enough and those parts all cost money. On my second car, a big-block ’66 Chevelle four-speed 360hp Rat with 4.10 gears, all it needed were bigger rear tires that I immediately bolted on. From there, I just tuned and raced it. It wasn’t until 15 years later that I added power steering and front disc brakes. All of these are Day Two mods. I think for the serious guy, nitrous would probably make a great Day Two addition. I don’t think a blower or turbo is a Day Two swap. It’s more like week 10 or perhaps a year into the build before I would get that serious. Steve Magnante: As the name describes, a Day Two Restoration is a car constructed to look as if was a brand-new factory unit that was then given modifications typical to the period, in our case typically the years 1960-1975. It’s a fact that few muscle cars remained 100 percent factory stock for very long after delivery to their first owners. But let’s not let the term “Day Two” fool us into thinking these modifications were simple enough to be completed–literally–on “day two” of vehicle ownership. Rather, the term implies modifications owners were eager enough to make that they started turning wrenches within days of vehicle purchase, but in most cases, the evolution of the car could take months or even years to complete. The engine was one of the first areas of improvement. Things like tubular steel exhaust headers, aluminum intake manifolds, openelement air cleaners (when not factory supplied, i.e. Z/28, L78 396/L72 427, and so on), high-capacity spark plug wires (usually in bright colors for increased look-at-me value), plasticblade flex-fans, and finned aluminum or chromed valve covers, are the underhood hallmarks of a Day Two muscle car. And we can’t forget the body, suspension, and interior. Though most muscle cars came with plenty of external “plumage” in the form of stripes and metal or plastic emblems, taking things a step further, Day Two body additions typically included hood scoops (not necessarily, but preferably functional), foglights, trunk spoilers, and (unfortunately) aftermarket sunroofs, sliced into the expanse of the factory roofskin in an effort to grab some convertible vibes on the cheap (a “crime” usually committed by the second or third owner of the car, though some dealerships peddled sunroofs as an after-sale profit center). ALL CHEVY PERFORMANCE [67] VOLUME 2 • ISSUE 18 • 2022

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Underneath, suspension add-ons typically included traction bars (ladder-type on coil-sprung cars, slapper bars on leaf-sprung cars), rear axle lift kits via pneumatic bags or air shocks–complete with Schrader valve inflation points cut into the rear bumper or hidden inside the trunk or behind the hinged rear license plate (if so equipped). On leaf-sprung cars, extra-length shackles increased rear ride height. In most cases, the jacking of the rear suspension was done to allow fitment of fatter rear tires mounted to wider rims. Though the handling characteristics of “jacked up” muscle cars are rarely enhanced, the look can be very effective. Wheel and tire upgrades are another classic Day Two issue. But it’s crucial to use period-correct items to get the job done correctly. That means classic aftermarket wheel types. Good choices are Cragar S/S, American Racing Torq Thrust, Keystone Classic, Radir, Fenton slots, and so on. For tires, non-radial, bias-ply, or belted tires with square shoulders and brash white sidewall lettering are mandatory to achieve the time-warp look. Another classic touch– of debatable taste–is the application of bright or contrasting colors to brake drums, axle housings, suspension members, and even the entire frame (on non-unitized models). Inside, classic Day Two touches include an aftermarket vintage tachometer and three-dial gauge cluster–typically fastened to the underside of the dash. A replacement steering wheel with a wood or colored metalflake plastic hoop is typical. Factory-issued transmission controls are usually replaced by aftermarket items—regardless of manual or automatic configuration—for more accurate execution of upshifts and downshifts. Finally, we need an aftermarket 8-track tape player with box speakers lashed to the rear package tray. Paint the bulb in the dome lamp red or green and you’re ready to properly enjoy Deep Purple’s “Highway Star;” “… eight cylinders all mine … it’s a killing machine … gonna race it to the ground … big fat tires and everything …”. Yeah. That’s the problem. So many Baby

Boomers drove their SS 396s, Z/28s, heavy Chevys, and Nova Super Sports extra hard after adding Day Two modifications, a lot were quickly used up. But we can’t deny that a properly executed Day Two muscle car really stands out from the sea of look-alike 100-point restorations. Tony Huntimer: Day Two builds are typically centered around muscle cars from the ’60s to early ’70s; if I had to narrow it down even further, maybe 1967-73. Day Two refers to a car (of the years previously mentioned) that was purchased new at the dealer and driven home. On the second day of ownership, that car is in the garage up on jackstands getting a bunch of speed parts bolted on. Since those cars are ’67-73, that would mean the bolt-on parts would only be limited to what was available over the counter during those years. So we’re talking Lakewood traction bars, Cragar S/S wheels, Accel ignition coil, Sun tachometer, Edelbrock tunnel ram, Mr. Gasket velocity stacks, Hooker headers, Mickey Thompson finned aluminum valve covers … and much more. RESTOMOD Jeff Smith: I have never really liked this term because it seems like it’s just another version of a hot rod or modified car. But I suppose everything has to have a label. Labels make it quick and easy to identify a certain type of machine, so I guess it has its place. But if you modify it, it’s not stock anymore so it’s not restored. But perhaps it could mean a car that is modified but not quite as heavily as a Pro Touring car. Steve Magnante: Restomods–as the name describes–blend equal parts “restoration” and equal parts “modification” in one vehicle, which is generally configured to look stock while packing superior acceleration, cruising, handling, and braking capabilities. Builders of Restomods seek to leave the body and most visible areas looking stock, but with hidden upgrades to improve the aforementioned ability to drive on a daily basis–and maybe even surprise a few modern muscle cars with a show of taillights.

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Favorite powerplants include modern LS and LT crate engines up to and including the latest supercharged monsters. Those builders who choose traditional smalland big-blocks virtually always rely on adapted factory EFI or one of the many excellent aftermarket systems. Carburetors are lumped in with pocket calculators and pay phones, they’re gone, gone, gone. Superchargers are growing in popularity as are turbos on the more power-hungry efforts. Behind any proper Restomod engine we find overdrive transmissions with five or six gears (manual) or four to eight (automatic). Suspension systems are first class with coilovers replaced by air springs capable of sticking corners like a Z06 while allowing variable ride height and stance adjustments to suit road conditions. Brakes are strictly disc type with the possibility of rotors as big as the 15-inch wheel rims we used to think were state of the art. A key factor in allowing the modern suspensions and brakes to fully bloom is the new wave of 18- to 20-inch tires. Many are Z-rated and their ultra-thin sidewalls and foot-plus tread width give traction better than a ’60s Formula 1 race car. Inside a proper Restomod we’ll find digital gauges in tastefully arranged pods and clusters, which can be bought pre-assembled from multiple aftermarket sources. Seating is a key factor in a car capable of over 1 g and numerous sources of high-back, fully bolstered bucket seats–upholstered in fine leather, no less–are readily available. Over the past two decades, the Restomod build aesthetic has established itself as perhaps the most popular way to render any vintage car. In fact, it isn’t uncommon to see shops take Bloomington award-winning Corvettes (and equally prime Novas, Chevelles, Camaros, Impalas, and so on) and rebuild them with full-boat

Restomod touches. Though the end result runs and drives far better than any showroom stocker, the level of modification is so extreme these cars are pretty much beyond any hope of return to stock. To some, this is a scary proposition, as every “stock” Chevy that’s permanently modified is “another one gone,” the greater outcome is the car’s ability to be driven and enjoyed has mushroomed. We love ’em both. How about you? Tony Huntimer: The term Restomod is the conglomeration of the two words, restoration and modification. It originated solely to describe the restoration and modification of muscle cars (typically from the early ’60s to the mid ’70s) produced by the Ford Motor Company. I say early ’60s to include early Ford Falcons. Restomod’s earliest beginnings came from Mustangs Plus in Stockton, California. They still use the term in their literature. When the term started, the Ford enthusiasts were more interested in keeping their cars original or at least limiting the modifications of their car to bolt-on performance engine and suspension parts that made the car perform better but could be removed in order to put their cars back to stock … to retain the originality value for a future owner. Since that time, Restomod has bled over into more permanent performance upgrades that would take more than a wrench to reverse the modifications. In the next installment, we’ll dig into the terms Pro Touring, Pro Street, and Street Freak–all good stuff.

ALL CHEVY PERFORMANCE [70] VOLUME 2 • ISSUE 18 • 2022

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BY JEFF SMITH

PHOTOGRAPHY BY THE AUTHOR

F HEY

BUDDY, GOT A JUMP? PERSONAL SIZED BATTERY JUMP BOXES SERVE A PURPOSE

rom the day of the first dead car battery 100 years ago, resuscitating a flat battery requires a set of jumper cables, a secondary power source (like another car), and sufficient room to place the cars close enough to connect the cables. Even then, the effort was not always successful. Often, cables were either too short or featured such tiny cables that amperage just didn’t flow, and the inert battery remained flat. Worse yet was the feeling of helplessness when you’re standing there with jumper cables in your hand and no one offers to help. All of that should now be placed firmly in the past. With the development of powerful lithium-ion batteries, a sharp engineer came up with the idea to build a portable battery pack that could fit in your hand with enough power to crank a near-dead battery even when hooked to a large V-8 engine. When these units first appeared, we were skeptical, but performance has actually proven their worth. We’ll take a look at how these units can deliver tremendous starting power from a small package. We chose one of Antigravity’s XP-10 jump packs from Summit Racing as our test unit. Veteran hot rodders will remember older starter packs as heavy, bulky, and oftentimes more of a hassle than they were worth. They had to be constantly charged and maintained and often were still not up to the challenge. This was mainly due to the use of conventional lead acid batteries as the power source. The introduction of lithium-ion batteries offers a major energy density advantage over their lead acid cousins.

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A lithium-ion battery produces power in a range from 50- to 260-watt hours per kilogram (Wh/kg) compared to a typical lead-acid battery with a rating of 30 to 50 Wh/kg. With up to five times the power for the same weight it became possible to house sufficient starting power in a lightweight package. Another reason is that in addition to greater energy density, lithium-ion batteries offer the ability to transfer large amounts of amperage very quickly even when the jump battery charge state is less than 50 percent. Lead acid batteries quickly falter when the voltage drops but lithium-ion batteries are able to deliver high-amperage loads effortlessly. This is a major advantage and one reason why these new jump packs are so powerful despite their compact size. For example, the unit we’ve chosen to test is from Antigravity Batteries and is the second largest version in the Micro-Start line of jump boxes. This unit offers several features, but we will first look at the power specs because they require some explanation. Every car guy knows that it takes lots of current to spin a starter motor on a big V-8 engine. These portable jump boxes do not have the energy to do this on their own but do work very well to transfer a large amount of amperage to the existing car battery when it needs some help to crank the engine. If the battery is completely hammered (below 3 V), it’s likely that in a coldstart situation a jumper box will not be able to start the engine. However, if the

battery is sufficiently discharged that it won’t start the engine on its own, this is where these boxes can be very helpful. Let’s begin with some of the specs from this Micro-Start 10XP. The company lists this unit’s starting amperage at 400 amps that can peak to as much as 600 amps. These numbers will be available even if the jump box battery is not fully charged. However, due to their small size, they cannot deliver this amperage for more than about 3 to 5 seconds at a time. The XP-10, as with most similar packs, employs a safety circuit that prevents overheating the battery in the jumper if operated at full output for more than the 3- to 5-second limit. This may be slightly frustrating for the user, but it prevents damage to the jumper. Peak amperage is a rating of the maximum amount of amperage the unit can deliver. Note that the largest capacity unit is the XP-10HD, which offers another 50 amps of peak to 650 amps compared to the XP-10. The largest number is achieved by activating the “boost” button on the cable adapter. Capacity is a different rating scale. This references how long the unit can sustain a constant amperage draw. The larger the capacity number means it can withstand several more starting attempts before running out of power. The XP-10 is rated at a capacity of 18,000 milli-amps per hour (mAh).

1. The Micro-Start XP-10 kit includes the battery pack, specific jumper cables with 6 AWG cables, adapters to charge numerous laptops and cell phones, along with a home charging adapter and cigarette lighter adapter to charge the unit in the car. All this comes in a nice carrying case.

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The milli-amp hour rating indicates how much of a charge this unit can maintain and allow multiple attempts at starting a car. For example, the 8,000 mAh rating of the smaller XP-3 is probably sufficient to start a 5.7L V-8 on a warm, 70-degree day. However, it may be challenged with starting that same engine with a heavily discharged battery at a much chillier 20 degrees F. This occurs because all batteries are rated at their ideal temperature of 80 degrees F. All batteries lose efficiency when the temperature either exceeds or drastically drops below its rated temperature. This loss of performance in cold climates occurs because as the temperature drops, all batteries are less efficient at delivering the amperage and voltage required to start the engine. This is especially true with lead acid batteries. This is why most times a completely dead battery is much more of a challenge to jump with one of these boxes than a battery that is merely discharged but still retains some power. At 32 degrees F, a lead acid battery loses 20 percent efficiency; at -22 degrees F, this plummets to 50 percent of its cold cranking capacity. So, a battery with 600 cold cranking amps (CCA) at 77 degrees F will fall to barely 300 amps when the temperature drops below 0. Adding to this challenge, the engine itself will be more difficult to spin, requiring more starting power to do so. This is when a battery jump pack can kick the existing battery with enough power to start the engine even in the coldest weather.

2. There are five green lights on the side of the battery pack to indicate its state of charge. Each light indicates an additional 20 percent charge. The power switch is the red button. Next to the power switch is the round charge input connector. Next to that are the 19- and 12V outputs connected with a supplied adapter. The unit will turn off automatically when not in use. 3. For our starting test, the battery in our V-8–swapped S-10 truck dropped down to 11.9 V with the outside temperature in the low 20s. The battery had enough juice to engage the starter but barely turned the engine over. Note that our battery is located in the bed of the truck.

Actual battery temperature for the lithium-ion batteries is another factor. If the jumper is kept in the car where it will be instantly accessible to start a cold engine with a discharged battery, it will be at the same temperature disadvantage as the main vehicle battery. Nevertheless, lithium-ion batteries generally retain more starting power in cold temperatures than lead acid batteries.

4. So, when it is time to use the battery pack, it will not offer 100 percent capacity with the first attempt to start the engine. This is compounded by the fact that the jump battery is also cold. That first attempt will warm everything as current flows through both batteries. This is why a jumper will often succeed on the second or third attempt to start the engine. Jump starters can deliver most of their rated amperage even if the battery pack retains a less than 50 percent state of charge, something lead acid batteries cannot offer. In addition to the power for starting, jump packs, like the Antigravity Micro-Start, also offer several safety and highly useful features. For example, the adapter plug will indicate if the jumper cables are improperly connected, preventing damage to the jumper box. It also has a built-in safety feature that prevents overheating the box from excessive discharge rates. The XP-10 unit we obtained from Summit Racing also features several adapters to charge items like a cell phone, laptop, or tablet from the jumper box. The Micro-Start line also features an LED flashlight for times when you need illumination. As mentioned, Micro-Start line of jump boxes also offers a series of lights to indicate its charge level from 20 to 100 percent. Plus, the Micro-Start includes both mobile and home chargers. ALL CHEVY PERFORMANCE [74] VOLUME 2 • ISSUE 18 • 2022

4. We hooked the XP-10 jumper cables to the half-flat battery and successfully cranked the engine over to start. We started the engine a total of three times, being careful to wait two minutes or so in between attempts. This waiting period prevents overheating the batteries in the jumper pack.

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5. This is the TPI engine in our small-block S-10 truck. It’s a 9.2:1 compression 355 with a mild roller cam, Dart heads, and a factory ECU. 6. Just to illustrate the chill factor, we summoned the temperature in nearby Des Moines at 18 degrees F. We are slightly south, and our thermometer called it 20 degrees F. Brisk is a descriptive word.

7. We connected the jumper pack to a battery on the bench inside the shop to show the green light that indicates the connections are correct with positive to positive and negative to negative. If the green light flashes, the main battery voltage is very low. Pushing the boost button (arrow) will summon maximum amperage from the jumper pack.

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According to our friends at Summit, the Antigravity units are among their best-selling units and that’s why we decided to try this unit in a dedicated cold-start test. We’ve recently completed a move to the Midwest and a sub-0 cold snap hit our V-8-powered S-10 really hard and hammered the existing battery. Our battery had some power, but at 11.9 V it had less than 25 percent charge—not near enough to crank the engine.

Our first test tried the Micro-Start after storing it in the shop at 50 degrees F. The Micro-Start easily cranked the engine, allowing it to start. We tried and started the engine three times, all successfully. Our next test placed the Micro-Start in the truck overnight with its near 0 temperature and we did not recharge the unit. Our test the next morning revealed how this unit performs when subjected to low temperatures. Because cold batteries are less efficient, our first attempt at jump starting our 355ci small-block Chevy met with a too-slow roll of the starter motor. The second attempt tried but still failed so we ended that attempt. By this time, current flow had warmed the jumper pack slightly and the third attempt met with success and cranked the engine with enough speed to successfully get it running.

8. All Micro-Start units come with adapters to allow charging your cell phone from the USB ports. 9. The XP-10 is also fitted with a bright, LED flashlight along with two different USB connections. The blue connector (right) is for quick charging other devices while the left one (white) is for more sedate charging.

By this time, we had only depleted the battery in the Micro-Start to 80 percent and it still had sufficient power to start the S-10 after multiple attempts in 18 degrees F weather. The patent company Antigravity Batteries claims this XP-10 unit is capable of as many as 45 starts on a single charge, depending upon the amperage draw from the repeated attempts. One concern with these jump packs is that they do not have a long-term lifespan. Antigravity admits that all lithium-ion batteries begin to lose effectiveness from birth. Antigravity claims that the average battery lifespan is about 3 to 3½ years, although they recommend that if the owner uses the battery pack to charge small components like cell phones or laptops (as opposed to sitting idle) this will increase the battery’s potential length of service.

10. Our XP-10 kit comes with both a 110V charging adapter as well as one for the car to charge while driving. It’s highly recommended to not leave the unit unattended when charging and to not allow the unit to drop below 20 percent charge. If the battery pack is allowed to reach zero charge, it cannot be resuscitated.

10.

Hopefully this evaluation has been of some assistance in your search for a jump pack that is small enough to easily store in your car and has the power to bail you out of a no-start situation. PARTS LIST DESCRIPTION Antigravity Micro Start Sport Antigravity Micro Start XP-1 Antigravity Micro Start XP-3 Antigravity Micro Start XP-10 Antigravity Micro Start XP-10HD

PN AGXPSPTBLK XP-1 XP-3 XP-10 XP-10-HD

SOURCE Summit Racing Summit Racing Summit Racing Summit Racing Summit Racing

SOURCES

MODELS FROM ANTIGRAVITY

Sport XP-3 XP-1 XP-10 XP-10HD

START AMPS 150 200 200 400 400

PEAK AMPS 300 400 4001 600 650

MILLIAMP-HOUR CAPACITY (AMPS) 7,500 (7.5) 8,000 (8.0) 2,000 (12.0) 18,000 (18.0) 18,000 (18.0)

ENGINE SIZE (MAX) 4.0L V-6 gas 5.7L V-8 gas 6.0L V-8 gas 7.0L diesel 7.3L diesel

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ANTIGRAVITY BATTERIES (310) 527-2330 antigravitybatteries.com SUMMIT RACING (800) 230-3030 summitracing.com

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FEATURE

BY NICK LICATA

PHOTOGRAPHY BY JASON MATTHEW

eing an enabler is typically considered a bad thing when it comes to unhealthy addictions, but if it’s your pops and grandpops doing the pushing, it’s likely to be something positive. In the case of John Griffith III, he pretty much had little choice in the matter when it came to the horsepower addiction. “I inherited the affection for power from my father and grandfather,” John admits. “It started with motorcycles in my early teenage years, then naturally grew in the direction of muscle cars soon after.”

JOHN GRIFFITH III’S ’67 CHEVELLE GOES FROM STRIP TO STREET

That passion gripped John pretty hard, so he aimed that spirit toward building something vintage. He was particularly fond of the attitude associated with a classic Chevelle. “My dad’s friend, Rob Concato, built a ’67 for drag racing back in the early ’00s and he eventually sold it to a guy in Maryland,” John says. “After a few years the guy wasn’t doing much with the car and was willing to sell it to me, so I jumped on it. “When I got the car it was in fair condition but was bare bones and needed some modern upgrades and a lot of attention cosmetically,” John remembers. “It had a simple interior, poor turning radius, and ill-equipped brakes. Going straight was about the only thing it did well.”

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HEALTHY ADDICTION

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FEATURE

John stuck with the stock chassis and addressed the handling issues up front with an SC&C Sport Touring package consisting of SPC adjustable upper and lower control arms, Chris Alston’s Chassisworks spindles, double-adjustable VariShock QS2 shocks, SPC Performance springs, and a Hellwig sway bar. Out back John bolted in a set of Currie Curretrack upper and lower control arms, shock tower brace, VariShock QS2 double-adjustable shocks, and SPC Performance springs. Stopping obligations are handled by Baer Brakes, consisting of 13-inch rotors and six-piston calipers up front with 12-inch rotors and four-piston arrangement out back. John also went with a Baer Remastar brake master cylinder for a superb pedal feel. Rushforth Super Spoke wheels play right into the theme with a sporty split five-spoke design in a brushed finish and modern diameters (19x8 front, 20x10 rear) not too long ago considered out of place but today look right at home wrapped in pavement-hugging Nitto rubber–an appropriate choice for John’s ambitious driving habits. John pulled no punches when it came to powering this A-body. He formed an impressive alliance around a Dart block and brought Bill Ceralli of Ceralli Competition Engines (Paterson, New Jersey) on board to massage and assemble the healthy powerplant. Ceralli armed the bullet with a Callies 4.250 stroked crankshaft, 10.5:1 JE Pistons slugs, Manley rods, Comp Cams CB Special roller cam, and AFR aluminum heads. CFM (Checkered Flag Machine) ported and polished the heads prior to topping off the Edelbrock Victor Jr. intake with an AED Performance 1050 Pro Street carburetor. The big-inch mill

exhales through a set of Lemons 2¼- to 21/8-inch stepped headers, 3-inch custom exhaust, and Spintech 9000 Super Pro Street mufflers–the sound is a dead giveaway that this Chevelle is a no-nonsense brawler ready to take on any situation when provoked. One look under the hood confirms all suspicions that this Chevelle has plenty of bite to back up its bark. The engine bay carries a clean yet threatening appearance thanks to the Williams Fabricating valve covers, Jones Racing accessory drive system, K&N open element air cleaner, Saldana Racing Products custom aluminum radiator, Baer Remaster brake booster, and Eddie Motorsports billet hood hinges. With 825 hp on tap, all that grunt has to go somewhere, so an FB Performance Stage 3 AOD transmission readily accepts the challenge backed up with a 3,800-stall converter. A B&M Quicksilver shifter manages gear changes, while a custom 4-inch aluminum driveshaft sends twist to a Moser 12-bolt rearend stuffed with a Truetrac posi unit, 4:11 gears, and Moser 33-spline axles. Inside the Chevelle John relies on a relatively stock setting with the exception of the Classic Dash insert occupied by a set of Auto Meter Cobalt Series gauges. A trio of underdash gauges offer additional vitals and some old-school flavor. A stockappearing SS steering wheel sits atop an ididit steering column, and Ringbrothers window cranks and door handles wake up the factory-looking ensemble. John gave the interior the full Dynamat insulation treatment prior to laying down the ACC black cut pile carpet. Those are stock bucket seats separated by the still-present stock center console. John left out the stereo and fancy touch-screens as the sound of the big-block blaring at 5,000 rpm is all the music he needs.

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TECH OWNER: John Griffith III, Nutley, New Jersey VEHICLE: ’67 Chevy Chevelle Engine TYPE: Dart block DISPLACEMENT: 555 ci COMPRESSION RATIO: 10.5:1 BORE: 4.560 inches STROKE: 4.250 inches MACHINING: Ceralli Competition Engines CYLINDER HEADS: AFR aluminum ported and polished by CFM South ROTATING ASSEMBLY: Callies crankshaft, Manley rods, JE Pistons CAMSHAFT: Comp Cams CB Special roller cam, 0.734/0.680 lift, 266/279 duration at 0.050, 112 LSA INDUCTION: Edelbrock Victor Jr. intake, AED Performance 1050 Pro Series Dominator carburetor ENGINE ASSEMBLY: Ceralli Competition Engines (Patterson, NJ) EXHAUST: Lemons Headers, custom 3-inch exhaust, Spintech 9000 Super Pro Street ANCILLARIES: Saldana Racing Products Radiator, K&N air cleaner, MSD ignition, Jones Racing accessory drive system, Eddie Motorsports hood hinges TUNING: Bill Ceralli at Ceralli Competition Engines OUTPUT: 825 hp at 6,700 rpm, 730 lb-ft at 5,100 rpm Drivetrain TRANSMISSION: FB Performance Stage 3 (Baywood, NY) TORQUE CONVERTER: PTC 3,800 stall REAR AXLE: Moser 12-bolt, Truetrac limited-slip differential, 4.11:1 gears, Moser 33-spline axles Chassis FRONT SUSPENSION: SC&C Sport Touring package, SPC Springs, VariShock QS2 doubleadjustable, Chris Alston’s Chassisworks spindles, Hellwig sway bar, Lee Power Steering System REAR SUSPENSION: Currie upper and lower billet arms, shock tower brace, VariShock QS2 double-adjustable shocks, SPC Performance springs, Hellwig sway bar BRAKES: Baer 13-inch rotors, six-piston calipers front, Baer 12 rotors, four-piston calipers rear, Baer Remaster master cylinder Wheels & Tires WHEELS: Rushforth Super Spoke (19x8 front, 20x10 rear) TIRES: Nitto 555 G2; 235/35R19 front, 285/30R20 rear

Ultimate Auto Body took the shell from “fair” to exceptional condition by replacing sheetmetal that was too far gone, then smoothed and filled the pieces that caused the least resistance. Ultimate’s Tony Nese sprayed layers of deep, PPG black pigment then unleashed some mile-deep clear to bring the car to a show-quality finish. John’s Chevelle was what he calls an “off and on” four-year project that couldn’t have happened without the help of his father and a knowledgeable group of gearheads consisting of Bob Concato, Mark Spencer, Bill Ceralli, and George Farkouh. “This ride came out better than I ever thought it could. Without these guys on board, it would have been only half the car it is today,” John states. Building cars also builds memories and so far John’s favorite outing with the Chevelle came in September 2021 at a car show in Wayne, New Jersey. “Everyone was ecstatic over the car, which confirmed all my hard work paid off,” John says with a mile-wide grin.

Interior UPHOLSTERY: ACC black pile DOOR PANELS: Stock HARDWARE: Ringbrothers window cranks and door handles SEATS: Stock bucket STEERING: ididt column, stock-style SS steering wheel SHIFTER: B&M Quicksilver DASH: Classic Dash insert INSTRUMENTATION: Auto Meter Cobalt Series HVAC: None AUDIO: Radio delete Exterior BODYWORK AND PAINT: Ultimate Auto Body (Nutley, NJ) PAINT: PPG black by Tony Nese HOOD: Auto Metal Direct 2-inch cowl INNER FENDERS: Fiberglass OUTSIDE MIRRORS: Ringbrothers DOOR HANDLES: Ringbrothers HOODPINS; Ringbrothers BUMPERS: Stock HEADLIGHTS: Delta Tech TAILLIGHTS: Stock with LED inserts

John was handed down a passion for horsepower and applied that intensity to a ’67 Chevelle that is now one helluva hot rod that has awoken the sleepy streets of Nutley, New Jersey. ALL CHEVY PERFORMANCE [86] VOLUME 2 • ISSUE 18 • 2022

Designed for C1, C2, C3 Corvettes & GM A Bodies – easy to install!

Compact! Lightweight! High Performance!

• 600 lb.-ft.torque capacity • Capable of 8,000 RPMs with shifts at 7,500 RPMs • Superior shifting – multi-cone synchronizers & sintered bronze / carbon hybrid synchronizer rings • Noise, vibration, & harshness minimized with gear layout & supported by caged needle bearings to reduce end play on the gears • Special grade steel (ASTM 4615) gears / shafts & billet aluminum shifter

• Three-piece aluminum housing provides increased structural strength and eliminates gear deﬂection. • Mechanical & Electronic Speedometer output • Bolts to factory Munice Bellhousing; direct ﬁt with Corvettes & only minor tunnel mods on some A Bodies • Available as a Tru-Fit Complete Conversion Package

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MARVELOUS MONZAS

The Monza nameplate was used on bucket seat Corvairs in the ’60s but the name is the only link with the ’75-80 model. This ’76-ish Monza 2+2 hatchback looks better with each passing year. But when new, the bulky bumpers were a recent phenomenon mandated on all cars to serve in lame bumper laws aimed at minimizing low-speed body damage. In theory, bumpers had to sustain no visible damage from a 5-mph impact. The wedgeshaped wraparound taillamps add Camaro mojo. BY STEVE MAGNANTE

PHOTOGRAPHY BY THE AUTHOR

een by many as either a pint-sized Camaro or a grown-up Vega, the Monza was a product of GM’s response to the 1973 OPEC Oil Embargo. When the Organization of Petroleum Exporting Countries decided to deprive Uncle Sam of oil for mainly political reasons, Americans panicked as the price of gasoline (and all other petroleum-based products, from home-heating oil to plastic spoons) jumped dramatically. All over America, lightly used SS 396 Chevelles, Z28 Camaros, and virtually every other type of high-performance V-8 machine was rendered nearly worthless. By 1975, tens of thousands of people traded in SS454 Monte Carlos, 409 Impalas, 327 Novas, and the like as partial payment on Honda Civics, Volkswagen Rabbits, Chevy Chevettes, and other compact and subcompact offerings. In most cases, trade-in allowances were well below 20 percent of the new car’s sticker price. At GM, 1975 brought the Monza (H-body). Offered in coupe, hatchback, and station wagon body styles (all of them two-doors), the Monza was loosely based on the Vega but with many exclusive details. In particular–and of lasting importance to Camaro enthusiasts–the Monza’s rear suspension and rear axle were different than the Vega’s four-link setup. While Vega (introduced in 1970) used a scaled-down version of the dual upper/dual lower control arm, the coil spring rear suspension seen under

Chevelles since 1964, Monza retained the vertically oriented coil springs but eliminated the twin upper control arms that ran from the axle tubes to the chassis. In their place went a transverse-mounted “track bar” and a simple torque arm running next to the open driveshaft from the nose of the rear axle housing to the tail of the transmission. The change was meant to cure Vega’s poor handling on rough surfaces by extending the instant center (the point at which the pivot points of the upper and lower control arms converge) from under 2 feet to nearly 6 feet (see the illustration on page 90 for details)! The Monza’s torque arm rear suspension worked so well it was used (with minimal changes) under all Camaros from 1982-2002. So was the Monza’s lightduty 10-bolt, Salisbury-style rear axle–with a ring gear diameter boost from 7.5 to 7.62 inches on V-8 performance models in the mid ’80s. In this installment of Bowtie Boneyard, let’s explore some marvelous Monzas found at Desert Valley Auto Parts in Arizona (866-942-2821, dvap.com). One quick note to longtime DVAP fans is that urban sprawl forced the closure of DVAP’s traditional location in Phoenix to a new location in Black Canyon City, Arizona. The new spot is about 30 miles from the old location but is just as cool. In fact, most of the inventory was painstakingly moved to this new location in a monthlong thrash. Give DVAP a call if you need rust-free metal of any variety.

ALL CHEVY PERFORMANCE [88] VOLUME 2 • ISSUE 18 • 2022

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This one-piece injection-molded urethane fascia was only used on 2+2 hatchbacks and adds a sinister vibe, especially when the headlight recesses were blacked out of the Z01/Z02 Monza Spyder variant. Bill “Grumpy” Jenkins helped inflate Monza’s performance image when his NHRA Pro Stock Grumpy’s Toy XIII Monza appeared on the cover of the Dec. ’75 issue of Hot Rod magazine. Similar 2+2 hatchbacks were also sold as the Buick Skyhawk, Oldsmobile Starfire, and Pontiac Astre as GM (and Detroit) embraced “badge engineering.” The most radical Monza was the ’77 Mirage. Like most ’70s “muscle,” it was basically an appearance package. Converted off campus by Michigan Auto Techniques (MAT), 4,097 were built with plastic body extension panels mimicking the look of IMSA road racers. The 145hp 305 two-barrel was the hottest powerplant in the catalog. Most non-Mirage Monzas came with inline-four or V-6 power. The Monza was also sold as the formal roof Town Coupe with a more conventional greenhouse and enclosed trunk compartment with a steel decklid seen on this ’77 model. Though Monza shared Vega’s 97-inch wheelbase (and front suspension), Monza’s larger body dimensions increased curb weight from 2,558 pounds (Vega 2+2 hatchback with standard 2.3 OHC four-cylinder) to 2,664 pounds (Monza 2+2 hatchback with standard 2.3 OHC four-cylinder), and as much as 3,043 pounds (Monza 2+2 with optional V-8). No Vegas were ever offered with factory installed V-6 or V-8 power. All were four-cylinder powered. As with the same-era Chevelle Malibu/Chevelle Laguna marketing scheme, the Monza Town Coupe and Monza 2+2 hatchback had very different grilles. Unlike the 2+2’s sinister “raccoon face,” the Town Coupe’s fascia is simple and wears an exposed aluminum bumper. Headlamps also differ drastically; the 2+2’s quartet of rectangular units being GM’s first departure from the traditional round sealed beam lamps seen on Town Coupes. The chrome-plated egg crate grille is plastic. While GM honcho and (acquitted) cocaine kingpin John DeLorean called the 2+2 hatchback the “Italian Vega” for its intentional resemblance to the contemporary Ferrari GTC-4– right down to the louvered roof pillar–the Town Coupe was strictly middle America. The Town Coupe’s conventional layout makes it 136 pounds lighter than the more complex 2+2 hatchback. The Town Coupe’s rectangular taillamps and exposed rear bumper differ greatly versus the sleeker 2+2 hatchback. Base prices (1976) were $3,359 (Town Coupe) and $3,727 (2+2). A base six-cylinder Camaro was just $35 more in 1976 ($3,762) but was about 15 percent thirstier at the gas pump. Stoplight Grand Prix spotters learned to examine the Monza’s front fender emblem. This one reads “V8 5.0 Litre,” a sign the 145hp Chevy 305 two-barrel V-8 was originally ordered. New in this 1977 example, the 305 replaced the 262ci Chevy V-8 offered in 1975–76 as a $224 upgrade over the base OHC 2.3L four. In 1975 (only) California and high-altitude Monza buyers could order a Chevy 350 V-8. But don’t get too excited. Radically detuned, it produced an anemic 125 hp. Over its six-model year run, 731,504 Monzas were produced. Perhaps 10 percent were V-8 powered. ALL CHEVY PERFORMANCE [89] VOLUME 2 • ISSUE 18 • 2022

ACP BOWTIE BONEYARD

InTheGarageMedia.com

Bits of the factory-installed Chevy 305 V-8 litter the interior. The HEI distributor and aluminum-blade viscous drive fan were once considered high-performance items but became standard measures to improve efficiency by the late ’70s. 1977 marked the final year for the troublesome Vega-sourced aluminum block 2.3L OHC four. The Pontiac-designed 151-cube Iron Duke push rod four replaced it in 1978 and beyond. Unfortunately, no V-8 Monzas were factory assembled with manual transmissions. All were three-speed automatics. It’s not a Monza but it has Monza’s torque arm rear suspension. One of just 3,508 were built in 1975 and 1976, this ’75 Cosworth Vega is a sleeper collectible (in more ways than one, as we shall see). Imagined by GM as a “halo” model to attract Vega customers, the Z09 Cosworth Vega’s truly exotic 2.0L DOHC four (smaller than Vega’s base 2.3L SOHC four) featured GM’s first ever electronic fuel injection and advance installation of Monza’s torque arm rear suspension to tame Vega’s notorious axle hop. The original gold-colored Cosworth wheels have been replaced by Centerlines here.

Inside, every Cosworth Vega featured a Firebird Trans Am–inspired engine-turned instrument panel finish plate, 120-mph speedometer (in a Vega!), 8,000rpm tachometer, and manual transmission (four-speed in 1975, five-speed overdrive in 1976). The big problem was price. At $5,916, it was twice as expensive as a base Vega. Just $634 more would buy a base Corvette roadster. Worse yet, air conditioning, power steering, power brakes, and an automatic transmission were strictly not available. Here, less was not more. Surprise! Somewhere along the way a Chevy small-block V-8 ousted the exotic Cosworth four popper. A shame or an improvement, you choose. The good news here is how this Cosworth Vega’s Monza-sourced torque arm rear suspension likely tamed the inevitable axle hop in this four-speedequipped V-8 giant killer. This is why V-8 Vega builders know to base their swaps on ’76-77 Vegas, all of which got the Monza/ Cosworth rear suspension upgrade regardless of original engine.

A golden dash plaque tells us this is car number 2,006 of the 3,508-car run. The plaque helped build exclusivity but couldn’t compensate for the DOHC 2.0’s mere 110 hp and 107 lb-ft of torque. Original plans called for over 200 hp but engineers failed to meet emissions standards and were forced into radical detuning. Though designed with input from England’s Cosworth racing, each 16-valve engine was hand-assembled in the same Tonawanda, New York, clean room used for the ’69 ZL1 aluminum 427 program.

This GM-supplied illustration from the Apr. ’75 issue of the now-defunct Road Test magazine shows the new ’75 Monza’s torque arm rear suspension (also shared on the ’75 Cosworth Vega). The nearly 6-foot-long torque arm tamed axle hop. This basic layout–including the 10-bolt rear axle–was used under all ’82-02 Camaros and Firebirds.

Ignore the home-brewed dual exhaust system and you’ll see the Cosworth’s special 7.5-inch 10-bolt rear axle with bolt-on torque arm extending toward the transmission tailshaft housing and transverse track bar (aka Panhard bar). If that’s the original rear axle, it packs 3.73 gears. The hottest non-Cosworth Vega axle ratio was 3.42. When the five-speed overdrive transmission arrived in 1976, the Cosworth axle ratio bumped to a fun 4.10:1. Unfortunately, Positraction was an extra cost option on all Vegas, Cosworth included. ALL CHEVY PERFORMANCE [90] VOLUME 2 • ISSUE 18 • 2022

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