Tromso Travel Magazine by Markedskompetanse Nord AS

FREE MAGAZINE WINTER 2018-2019

DOG SLEDDING

Say hello to a bunch of eager huskies!

SNOWMOBILE SAFARI A breathtaking adventure in the driver’s seat of a snowmobile.

NORTHERN LIGHTS RESORT

A whole menu of activities. Everything is withIn walking distance of the resort.

RECOMMENDED

// restaurants // cafés // // bars // adventures // // activities // sightseeing

MAGAZINE

Who knoWs A city better? Who knows a city better than its local taxi drivers? Whether you need a cab from the airport to your hotel or you want to check out the whales in Kaldfjorden, Tromsø Taxi is at your service 24/7. Tromsø Taxi is Northern Norway’s largest taxi station. We have 123 vehicles, including 10 maxi taxis seating 9-16 passengers and can transport up to three wheelchair users per vehicle. As well as transporting you from A to B, we offer sightseeing tours. You decide what you want to see, or your driver can be your guide and show you the best sights in and around the city!

Tromsø Taxi – GeT where you’re GoinG fasTer

booKinG 2

Phone 1: +47 03011 | Phone 2: +47 776 03 000 | aPP: TaxiFix (Download free in AppStore and GooglePlay) e-mail: taxi@tromso-taxi.no | websiTe: www.tromso-taxi.no

Rent a Car Get off the plane at TromsĂ¸ airport, and go directly to our counter to get the key for your rental car. Check out our website and choose the model you prefer.

(+47) 97 59 30 00 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; reservation@sixt.no

www.sixt.com

bussring.no

– takes you all the way from door to door

- brings artists and equipment to shows all over Scandinavia

Benefit from our local knowledge of how to operate in the Arctic, and 35 years of experience as a high quality coach service operator.

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- takes you to all our winter activities in the TromsĂ¸ region

Tromso Travel Magazine Winter 2018/19 (9th edition) Publisher

Markedskompetanse Nord AS post@mk-nord.no Editor

John A. Angelsen john@mk-nord.no Contributing authors

Hans Olav Eriksen, Jan-Are K. Johnsen, Ruth Norstrøm, Tor Petter W. Christensen, John A. Angelsen, Ron Røstad, Jonny Hansen, Halvar Ellingsen, Thor A. Angelsen, Inger Storli, Peter Reinholdtsen, Gavin Tanguay

Welcome to the Outpost of Civilisation

Design/layout

Thor A. Angelsen/ Ruth Norstrøm Marketing & advertising

Hans Olav Eriksen hoeriksen@gmail.com Ruth Norstrøm ruth@mk-nord.no Advertising design Amedia Ressurs AS MK Nord Distribution

The magazine can also be downloaded as an app at App Store and Google Play Circulation

25 000 printed copies Print

Polaris Trykk AS English translation

Gavin Tanguay gavint-oversetting.no Photos

Marius Fiskum mariusfiskum. no, Ole Salomonsen arcticlightphoto.no, Sweet Films sweetfilms.no, Marius Hansen, David Gonzales, Lloyd Rehnlund, Peter Reinholdtsen, Tom Benjaiminsen Cover photo Audun Rikardsen audunrikardsen.com 6

his is the end of civilisation, and the beginning of the largest uninhabited wilderness area in Europe. The Municipality of Tromsø has a population of around 70,000, approximately 60,000 of whom live in or nearby the city of Tromsø. Tromsø is by far the largest city in Northern Norway, and is also the largest Nordic city north of the Arctic Circle. Tromsø has its own university and brewery. No other universities or breweries in the world are located this far north. The city is surrounded by hundreds of islands, dramatic mountains and deep fjords, and is only a twohour flight from Oslo, the Norwegian capital. The university provides many opportunities for scientists from all over the world, studying the Northern Lights, the Arctic environment, fisheries, climate change, oil resources in the ocean, and many other topics. As a result of this activity, there are several museums dedicated to the Arctic life and nature, as well as an Arctic experience centre and aquarium. Tromsø, the Gateway to the Arctic, was founded in 1794, and from 1850 the town was central in fisheries and other marine-based activity. In the early 20th century, the town was also the starting point for several famous expeditions in the Arctic waters and in the race to be the first person on the North Pole.

The activity a century ago led to a flourishing cultural life. The finer ladies in Tromsø could afford to wear the latest fashions from Paris and other cultural centres in Europe. In the Nordic countries this gave Tromsø the nickname “Paris of the North”. The growing population and status as an Arctic capital, with a lasting boom in the cultural life, has maintained this image to this day. Tromsø has its own professional theatre, an international film festival, and many other festivals, concerts, and events throughout the year. Taking into consideration the size of the city, the nightlife in the many restaurants and bars is extraordinary. You will find restaurants serving everything from sushi to traditional Norwegian dishes. Tromsø is where civilization meets the wild and enormous Arctic environment. You can take the cable car up to a mountain more than 400 metres above sea level and admire the panoramic view of the islands and high mountains surrounding the city.

John A. Angelsen, Editor

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Join Tromso Travel Adventures on an adventure you will remember for the rest of your life. We offer adventurous activities between Tromsoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s beautiful mountains and fjords, in deep snow-covered valleys and beneath dancing Northern Lights that will simply take your breath away. Ask us about dog sledding, reindeer sledding, snowmobile

safaris or Northern Lights chases, to mention but a few of our wide range of activities.

BOOKING tromsotravel.com post@tromsotravel.com +47 48402732

Church

You will find us in the middle of Tromsoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s main pedestrian street. Drop in or visit us online at tromsotravel.com

Each year, around

passengers use Avinor Tromsø Airport

ambulance flights movements at Tromsø Airport

Tromsø Airport is responsible for around

Tromsø Airport is located

2,2 million

40,000

aircraft movements per year

only a short drive from town.

Tromsø Airport has around

Visit our shops and

from about 25 different companies

our variety of local produce

650 employees

5,500

restaurants and check out and global brands!

Avinor's role in society is to own, operate and develop a national network of airports.

avinor.no/en/airport/tromso-airport/ Avinor is the official Avinor app ! Offers up-to-date flight departure and arrival information for all of Avinor’s 45 airports in Norway.

DIRECT FLIGHTS: Direct regular flights to: London, Stockholm, Copenhagen, Helsinki, Gdansk, Frankfurt, München, Gran Canaria and Alicante.

TROMSØ AIRPORT has several daily flights from Oslo (OSL), the Norwegian capital. Flight time from Oslo International Airport (OSL) is 1hr 50min.

OSLO AIRPORT (Gardermoen) Approximate flight times: London 1 hr 20 min Berlin 1 hr 55 min Rome 3 hr 10 min Madrid 3 hr 45 min Paris 2 hr 25 min Brussels 1 hr 55 min 9

BE A MUSHER Say hello to a bunch of eager huskies that are ready for action.

DESTINATION Camp Tamok DURATION 4.5 hours +

Download the app LYNGSFJORD ADVENTURE

DOG Sledding T

he dog sledding adventure starts with meeting the dogs and preparing for the trip. You will receive instructions on how to drive a dog team. You then drive the dog sled on your own into the white landscapes, through the beautiful Vass Valley, a side valley connected to the great Tamok Valley. You will at first see Camp Tamok on your way out in the wild. The trails you follow have a total distance of approximately 15 km. The area where you lead the sled is totally uninhabited, with a landscape of mountains and forest. Out in the wilderness, these dogs are in their right environment. You will drive in pairs, one driver and one

passenger on each sled, with opportunity to switch places half way. After the adventure, you will return to Camp Tamok and a hot meal will be served in our heated lavvu (Sami herdsmen’s tent). INCLUDED ■■ Transportation by bus/minibus ■■ A hot meal ■■ Insulated body suit ■■ Boots, gloves and headwear ■■ English-speaking guide ■■ Evening trips will give you a chance to see the Northern Lights RECOMMENDED ■■ Warm under garments (wool or fleece is recommended) ■■ Vegetarian food will be provided if advance notice is given

SEASON:...........................................November 15 – March 31 DEPARTURE DAYTIME:................. 09:00 outside the Ishavshotel. (Return: 16:00) DEPARTURE EVENING:................17:00 outside the Ishavshotel, (Return: 24:00) PRICE:................................................NOK 1,895 (children 7-15 years: 50% discount)

DESTINATION Camp Tamok DURATION 4.5 hours + transport, 7h total

BOOKING:........................................www.lyngsfjord.com +47 77 71 55 88 (09:00 - 17:00)

Keep both hands on the sled at all times.

Brake by using your feet.

Assist the dogs when going uphill.

In sloping terrain, stand on the top ski.

Passengers: Keep your arms and legs inside the sled at all times.

Timetable Lyngsfjord Adventure

WINTER ADVENTURES

24/7

lyngsfjord.com

TROMSØCITY

09:00

10:15

16:00

14:45

Departure

Arrival

►►MID DAY BREAK & ACTIVITIES Camp stay Ice Fishing With Snowshoeing Ski School

17:00

18:15

24:00

22:45

Departure

Arrival

Please show up at the bus 10 minutes before the scheduled departure time. The bus departs at the exact time to ensure full value of your day.

►►DAYTIME ADVENTURES Dog sledding Snowmobile safari Reindeer sledding Ice Fishing Arctic Trucks

►►EVENING ADVENTURES Dog sledding Snowmobile Reindeer sledding Northern Lights visit Arctic Trucks ►►OVERNIGHT Sami tent Timber cabin Aurora chalet Gamme Char Cabin

that there is no transfer back to Tromsø 10:15 * Note City following the overnight stay. Spending the night in camp requires that you have booked both an evening excursion before the overnight stay and a daytime excursion after the overnight stay.

THE PERFECT SETTING

Analysis of the records dating back to 1981 shows there is an 18% chance that the weather in Skibotn will be perfect for seeing the lights.

Tromsø lies wedged between rugged mountains and the extensive mountain plateaus of Lapland. It’s a perfect setting for observing the Northern Lights.

From beyond the large islands that surround Tromsø, polar storms come in off the high seas. Coastal weather patterns can change rapidly, varying from a snowstorm to a cloud-free sky, overcast and calm conditions to high winds and raging storms. Once inside the fjords, however, the weather becomes calmer and drier.

STABLE WEATHER

Beyond Tromsø and the innermost fjords, we find the mountain plateaus, which stretch far and wide and as far as Siberia. Here, the weather remains stable over long periods. With a short distance into the fjords as well as to the more unstable weather on the coast, if you have Tromsø as your base you will almost always be able to see the Northern Lights. The best places and conditions are normally found deep in the fjords, but if it clouds over then it’s just a quick change of location with a short trip towards the coast. Tromsø lies on the exact latitude that statistically is perfect for observing the

Northern Lights. If, for example, you were on the same longitude as Finland, which lies further south, you would have to travel to the northernmost part of Finnmark, the northernmost county of Norway, to see the lights. The Northern Lights appear each and every night, but solar activity and atmospheric conditions determine whether or not they are visible to the naked eye. Changeable, local conditions within the same region provide better opportunities to see the Northern Lights. If there is something the locals in Tromsø are used to, it’s the changeable weather.

IDEAL LOCATION

There is one place within driving distance of Tromsø that enjoys particularly favourable conditions for viewing the Northern Lights. Analysis of the records dating back to 1981 shows there is an 18% chance that the weather in Skibotn will be perfect for seeing the lights. No other location has more than 6% chance for perfect conditions.

It has been shown that Skibotn enjoys the best conditions throughout Scandinavia. It must be an interaction in and around the mountainous landscape that draws the moisture out of the air. It causes a so-called `dry rain shadow ́. Camp Tamok in Tamokdalen, where Lyngsfjord Adventure is based, has similar weather conditions to Skibotn.

A BETTER CHANCE

The Northern Lights Observatory has looked at several areas in Scandinavia to find out which provides the best chance of experiencing the Northern Lights. The conditions are fairly similar. The Northern Lights guides in Tromsø have a better chance of finding the lights than their contemporaries in other areas. They can drive towards the drier Norwegian fjords, up towards the mountain plateaus or in the opposite direction towards the coast, depending on where the most favourable conditions are at that exact time.

Book and Pay Online Simply visit our website lyngsfjord. com and choose from the different excursions and programmes on your chosen date.

system for secure payments online. You do not need to create an account, and Epay accepts all major credit cards. If you still run into any kind of problem, contact us by email or phone, and we will assist you.

After booking your adventures, you progress to the next step; payment. All transactions go through Epay, a global

You can read more about terms and conditions on our website. Note that the excursions need to be prepaid for your booking to be confirmed, as it is not possible to pay at

the wilderness camp. If you are already in Tromsø and want to book and pay, please e-mail or call us first to check availability. Be aware that some excursions might be fully booked during the peak season (December to February). After talking with our staff, you may visit our website via your smart phone, laptop or simply by using a computer at your hotel reception. 15

A STROLL THROUGH THE PAR Tromsø is a metropolis by name, if not by fact, a place that has grown from being a tiny village into a small “big city” with a population rapidly approaching 100,000. The population was only 80 in 1794 when the king in Copenhagen granted a town charter to the small settlement on the island of Tromsøya. Around 221 years later, the population is approaching 75,000 and growing rapidly. Tromsø is a metropolis in name because ever since the mid 19th century the town has had a nickname that brings to mind the big metropolises of the world. “Paris of the North” was in fact a name Tromsø inherited because its residents – and primarily the women – always dressed in the latest fashion. Yes, the women of Tromsø dressed like many of the women of Paris dressed. That was due to fact that the latest fashions quickly came to Tromsø by the mode of transport of the day – boats - transporting fish products from our latitudes and to continental Europe.

FRENCH PAVEMENTS

It was not only in the area of women’s fashion that inspiration from Paris rubbed off on the locals of Tromsø. It also became quite common to use French terms in everyday language. In Tromsø, the Norwegian equivalent of pavement was never used. Instead, the paved areas beside the streets were called trottoir, just like Frenchmen described the pavements of Paris. When Tromsø got two breakwaters to protect the inner harbour from strong currents and strong winds on harsh autumn and winter days, they were not referred to by the Norwegian name. No, they got the French name jetee, which is still used to this day.

Tromsø History 16

The latest fashions from Paris. The upper class and working class walked on opposite sides of Storgata.

ARCTIC COUNCIL

In recent years, Tromsø has become an important city internationally. In 2013 Tromsø was chosen as the permanent secretariat for the Arctic Council. This is an intergovernmental forum among Arctic countries promoting cooperation and coordination on common Arctic issues, in particular in relation to sustainable development and environmental protection.

The member countries of the Arctic Council are Canada, Denmark including the Faroe Islands and Greenland, Finland, Iceland, Russia, USA, Sweden and Norway. In other words, Tromsø is not only the capital of Northern Norway, but also the capital of the Arctic. This council secretariat is housed in the Fram Centre, and this is a natural starting point for a city walk through Tromsø.

IS OF THE NORTH

POLARIA

The Fram Centre and adjacent Arctic experience centre Polaria were both completed just before the turn of the millennium.

The famous author Cora Sandel in the latest French fashion.

In addition to its unique architecture, the content of Polaria is of interest to the residents of Tromsø and the hundreds of thousands who visit Tromsø each year. Seals swim round in their own pool and there are aquariums containing fish species from the northern latitudes. Many have asked how the building ended up with its unique design. The answer is easier than you may think. The architect sat in his office one afternoon playing with a marker pen in search of an idea to create a building that illustrated the activity inside as well as one that the residents of Tromsø would develop a positive attitude towards. His pen suddenly stopped working. The architect fiddled with his pen to try to get it to work again. When he looked at the paper, he suddenly discovered that the lines he had drawn resembled the pack ice, which is a well known phenomenon in the Arctic. Aha, thought the architect. That was an idea he could develop further.

POLSTJERNA

A glass building housing the historic Arctic vessel Polstjerna stands right next door to Polaria. This sealing vessel served a total of 33 seasons in the West Ice and East Ice in the Arctic. Apparently more than 100,000 seals were caught from the vessel, which constituted an important part of the Arctic industry that at one stage was of great significance to Tromsø. A memorial to Helmer Hanssen, Tromsø’s polar explorer who was Roald Amundsen’s right hand man on all Amundsen’s expeditions, has been erected adjacent to this building. These expeditions included the conquering of the Northwest Passage, the South Pole and their attempt to reach the North Pole aboard Maud. The memorial was unveiled on 14 December 2011, 100 years to the day that Roald Amundsen and his crew reached the South Pole.

BAKER TURNED BREWER If you continue northwards along Storgata, it won’t take you long to reach what until a few years ago was the world’s northernmost brewery. Mack’s Brewery produced beer and soft drinks in huge quantities on this site from the brewery’s establishment in 1877 up to 2013 when production was moved to the neighbouring municipality Balsfjord. The brewery premises remain as they have since the late 19th century. Over the past couple of years, the former brewery has hosted the World Chess Olympiad in 2014 and European Bridge Championship in 2015. All the matches in both events were overseen by the man who established Mack’s Brewery in 1877, Ludwig Mack, whose bust adorns the building’s exterior.

TRAINED AS A BAKER

His family originated from Germany but moved to Tromsø in the mid 19th century and started a bakery. Ludwig Mack was to overtake his father’s bakery, so he returned to Germany to train as a baker and confectioner. However, while back in Germany, he dreamt of establishing his own brewery. He was aged just 35 on 17 May 1878 when he realized his dream and the first bottles of Bayer beer were produced. His brewing business, which still produces beer to this day, was underway.

EMPLOYED 320 PEOPLE

For a long time, the brewery was a major employer in Tromsø. In the

Tromsø History 18

Ludwig Mack outside his brewery in Storgata late 1980s, around 320 people were employed at the brewery and adjacent pub Ølhallen (The Beer Hall), which has been very popular since it opened its doors on the Leap Day in 1928.

DRANK HAIR TONIC

Ludwig Mack had actually tried many years earlier to get permission to open an indoor taproom, but the temperance movement in Tromsø was very strong so he failed to get the required permission. However, his successor as director, son-in-law Lauritz Bredrup, eventually succeeded. He visited every councillor at their home in an attempt to persuade them to let him open an indoor taproom. That didn’t help the first time he tried in

1924 despite the fact that there were no controls on drinking outdoors. Some local gangs known as the ”Denna gangs2 often sat outside and drank what was locally referred to as denna. This was a mixture of denatured alcohol and Salicylic acid, a fat-free hair tonic. Needless to say, the consumption of such beverages created uncontrolled situations, but this was insufficient to convince the temperance movement. They didn’t believe that permitting the brewery to open an indoor taproom would change the outdoor drinking pattern. But Lauritz Bredrup didn’t give up. He repeated his round of visits to the local politicians in 1927. On this occasion he was successful and Ølhallen became a reality.

AMUNDSEN’S LAST STAY Continuing north along Storgata, it is natural to stop outside the house at Storgata 42. This was the house in which polar explorer Roald Amundsen slept for the last time.

Amundsen arrived in Tromsø in the early hours of 18 June 1928 on the flying boat Latham. He was en route to the polar ice to search for Italian Umberto Nobile, whose airship Italia had disappeared after flying over the North Pole. Italia had crashed and an organised search began on a scale the world had scarcely seen before. Amundsen, who was commander of the airship Norge that flew over the North Pole in 1926 with Umberto Nobile at the controls, wanted to participate in the search. Amundsen’s good friend, pharmacist Fritz G. Zapffe, lived and worked at Storgata 42. Whenever Amundsen was in Tromsø, he always stayed with Zapffe. He even had his own room, which was later called the Amundsen room.

SUPPORTED BY MUSSOLINI

Amundsen slept here for a few hours before he and his French-Norwegian crew departed on Latham to search for Nobile. The Italian had embarked on his expedition with the airship Italia because he and Italian dictator Benito Mussolini believed that Italy had received too little attention for their role with the Norge expedition a few years earlier. That was the reason why Nobile built his own airship, christened as Italia and embarked on his adventurous expedition.

A stamp honours Roald Amundsen´s contribution to aviation history. Pictured: The ”Latham”.

Storgata 42

CRASHED

As history shows, Amundsen was unsuccessful in his attempt to find Nobile. Instead, his airship Latham crashed somewhere between the Norwegian mainland and the island of Bjørnøya. The only wreckage ever found was a float, which demonstrably was from Latham.

Zapffe celebrates after climbing up the church spire.

ZAPFFE’S CLIMB Zapffe’s son, Peter Wessel Zapffe, also lived at Storgata 42. Zapffe junior was lawyer, philosopher and author. He was also a fearless mountaineer. In the mid 1930s he worked as a lawyer at the office of the urban district court judge. He suddenly became bored with legal papers, went to the Tromsø Cathedral and decided to climb to the top of the church tower. People who witnessed this man climbing up the steep church tower – without any form of safety measures – were shocked, to put it mildly. Nevertheless, Zapffe reached the top with minimal effort and clung on while the city’s photographer preserved it all for posterity. In so doing, he secured evidence that Zapffe had actually climbed up the virtually impregnable church spire. Throughout the more than 150-year history of the Tromsø Cathedral, Peter Wessel Zapffe is the only person to perform this dangerous stunt.

ROCKET KIOSK

GESTAPO ALLEY Another house associated with several historical events is located on the northern side of the cathedral.

about the German battleship Tirpitz, which lay damaged in the Kåfjord near Alta.

The house at Bankgata 13 was built in 1880 by the whaler Johannes Giæver and was the first residential building in Tromsø built of stone. Another reason why it’s unique is that the famous writer Cora Sandel lived here during her childhood. During World War II the Gestapo took over the house and used it as a venue to torture people suspected of fighting against the interests of the occupying power Germany.

HEROIC DEED

REPORTED ON THE TIRPITZ

One of the people linked to this house was Norwegian resistance fighter Karl Rasmussen. He had been involved in sending messages from Alta to London

Tromsø History 20

After his arrest, Rasmussen was taken to Tromsø for very tough questioning inside this house. During a break in the questioning, he jumped out of a window on the second floor of the house and took his own life instead of divulging secrets to the Germans about his resistance comrades. This heroic deed is one of the reasons why every morning on 17 May, Norway’s national day, the scout parade stops briefly outside Bankgata 13 to lay a wreath to commemorate the victims of the Gestapo during World War II.

If we continue walking northwards along Storgata, we reach a tiny building that has characterized the town square since 1911. It is the small Løkkekiosken (the Løkke kiosk), which in recent years has been called Rakettkiosken (the rocket kiosk), apparently because it looks like a rocket. The kiosk was built by an 18-year-old woman named Margit Løkke - hence the name Løkke kiosk. It has survived for more than a century, including the big city fire in the spring of 1969 that engulfed several blocks with flames. Despite being in the midst of a sea of flames, the tiny kiosk survived. It is now the centre of a major music festival called RakettNatt (rocket night) in honour of the tiny rocket kiosk.

SKANSEN The last stop on our city walk is Skansen, the place in Tromsø with the longest history.

VERDENSTEATERET If you continue slightly further along Storgata, it’s natural to stop at Northern Europe’s oldest cinema in continuous operation.

It’s called Verdensteatret (the theatre of the world), and 2015 marks the 100th anniversary of the building of the cinema building. The first movie screened at the historic cinema was Sons of Destiny on 4 June 1916. Ever since, films starring the likes of Charlie Chaplin, Clark Gable, Elizabeth Taylor, Richard Burton and many, many more have entertained the residents of Tromsø, who have always filled this cinema regardless of whether war dramas or films about love and romance were screening.

building that still stands to this day and is simply referred to as Skansen. Construction began in 1789 and was completed in 1793 – the year before Tromsø received its town charter. It The history of Skansen stretis considered to be Tromsø’s ches right back to 1000 AD or oldest building. perhaps even further back. As well as serving as a CustSkansen was originally a medioms house, it has been a school eval fortification designed to building, nursing home and defend the people and buildcity museum. The building is ings of the time. the City of Tromsø’s residence No one knows with any for entertaining and was also certainty who built the fortifichosen as Tromsø’s millennium cation, but one cannot discount Olav Haraldsson, who was king site. of Norway between 1015 and 1030. Modern day excavations CULTURAL RELIC show that the fortress was sur- This building caught fire in the rounded by a 4-5 m wide moat, winter of 2003 but, owing to which in all likelihood was filled the tenacious efforts of the fire fighters, the building was saved. with water. It was later restored and is still a magnificent building. THE OLDEST BUILDING Skansen is considered to be In 1787, the Customs Service the best preserved fortified established itself in Tromsø, place in Northern Europe. It’s and Skansen was chosen as the obvious place as it offered a unique cultural monument the Customs officers an excel- in the city centre. If you look a little behind the facades, you lent view of the strait. One of will soon discover that it is a the first constructions was a museum in its own right.

This article is written by Johnny Hansen. In addition to a long career as an author, Hansen has been executive editor of the largest and oldest newspapers in the Tromsø region, iTromsø and Nordlys, for a total of 20 years. Hansen is considered to be one of the leading authorities on Tromsø’s modern history.

INTO THE WHITE Camp Tamok is the starting point for a breathtaking adventure in the driverâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s seat of a snowmobile.

Download the app LYNGSFJORD ADVENTURE

DESTINATION Camp Tamok DURATION 4.5 hours +

SNOWMOBILE Safari

o previous skills are required to drive a snowmobile. All you need is a regular driving licence, and it is just as easy as it is fun. The trail is 15 km each way, 30 km in total. The starting point is at an altitude of 250 m above sea level, and the guide brings you up to an elevation of 875 m. Imagine the views you will have during this snowmobile trip. We begin with a thorough safety introduction. You will drive in pairs, one driver and one passenger on each snowmobile, with opportunity to switch places during the trip. Due to the dramatic topography, a reduced speed is held during parts of the tour. On flat land and frozen lakes, you can speed up. The top point of the trail is a frozen lake. If time and weather

permit, you can try ice fishing on this lake. The second half of the excursion brings you back down again, ending up at Camp Tamok, our wilderness camp, where you will be served a hot meal in our lavvu (Sami herdsmen’s tent). INCLUDED

■■ Transportation by bus/minibus ■■ A hot meal ■■ Helmet ■■ Insulated body suit ■■ Boots, gloves and headwear ■■ English-speaking guide ■■ Evening trips will give you a chance to see the Northern Lights

RECOMMENDED

■■ Warm under garments (wool or fleece is recommended) ■■ Vegetarian food will be provided if advance notice is given

SEASON:...........................................December 1 – March 31 DEPARTURE DAYTIME:................. 09:00 outside the Ishavshotel. (Return: 16:00) DEPARTURE EVENING:................17:00 outside the Ishavshotel, (Return: 24:00) PRICE:................................................NOK 1,895 (children 7-15 years: 50% discount)

DESTINATION Camp Tamok DURATION 4.5 hours + transport, 7h total

BOOKING:........................................www.lyngsfjord.com +47 77 71 55 88 (09:00 - 17:00)

The throttle lever is on the righthand side, operated by your thumb.

Keep your feet and legs inside the protective metal skirts The break at all times. handle is located on your left-hand side.

Lean to the right If you feel insecure, just let when making a right go of the throttle and hand turn, and lean to the left when making a left break. The snowmobile will then gently slow down. turn.

The Arctic Spa and Adventure Boat A traditional Norwegian fishing boat transformed into a unique adventure vessel with Arctic spa and excellent restaurant on board.

vulkana.no

BRUNCH & SPA: NOK 895 FJORD CRUISE WITH LUNCH: NOK 1,995 FJORD CRUISE WITH DINNER: 2,495 PRIVATE CRUISE: Price on request

MALI ARNSTAD

Age: 45 Civil status: Married, children Lives in: Detached house Typical weekend food: Pizza Favourite café/bar: Risø kaffebar Tips for tourists: Hike up and take the cable car down Typical Sunday activity: Hike in the forest or go on a bike ride

The People of Tromsø

THE TYPEWRITER COLLECTOR Mali Arnstad’s day job is digital communication, but in her spare time she visits flea markets in search of Norwegian design treasures to sell to overseas buyers. Even though Norway is not as well known for design as Sweden and Denmark, there are many treasures in the Norwegian design history. “Norwegian vintage pillows and tablecloths, teak figures or Figgjo porcelain are desired by many people around the world. I find these items at flea markets and resell them with a small profit. It’s mostly a hobby,” says Arnstad. While at flea markets, Arnstad also looks for typewriters. She buys these too and has started a collection. Typewriters are also in demand. “I sent a Hermes typewriter to USA, which was used at a wedding. Guests used the typewriter to write messages of congratulations to the bride and groom.

NO GUARANTEE OF SUMMER

Summer in Tromsø this year was com-

I think children should learn to walk on the ice. 28

pletely average. In other words, the fine warm days were few and far between, and Tromsø residents need to travel south in order to find real summer weather. Arnstad and her family have found a good solution. “House swapping allows us to swap houses with people from all over the world. This summer we were in Normandy, while the French family were cold, grey Tromsø. I think they were just as satisfied as we were.” Using a house swapping service is a bit like the lottery. “If you don’t have a specific destination in mind, but for example want a beach and warm weather, you never know where you could end up. We have been in Belgium, Spain and Sardinia.”

SEPTEMBER IS THE BEST TIME

The best time of year in Tromsø is early autumn. “In September you can pick mushrooms and wild berries and it’s a great to hike in the countryside. It still hasn’t got really cold yet.” The Polar Night in Tromsø is something you have to accept as a challenge. The lack of daylight when the sun does not rise above the horizon can cause sleep disorders. Even though there is no evidence that this darkness causes depression, it is important to get some daylight, especially in terms of wellbeing. “I’m part owner of Reddi, which produ-

ces web content for clients. It’s important to get out of the office in the middle of the day when there is at least some light.” Some workplaces have introduced schemes to help the staff get some light. “Employees at the County Council get an extra break in the middle of the day so they can go outside when it’s light,” says Arnstad.

ARCTIC CHILDHOOD

Arnstad has three daughters of primary school age. Having children in the north involves several practical adjustments. “I don’t buy crampons for my children. I think children should learn to walk on the ice. Learning to walk on icy roads is just a matter of practicing and this is an important skill if you live in Tromsø. Tourists who are not used to walking on ice and snow make a lot of basic mistakes and fall easily,” she says. One way to adapt to the climate is not to keep children inside all the time. “If children are allowed to stay inside when the weather is bad, they would virtually never go outside,” she says. Children in Tromsø play outside regardless of the weather. Children at kindergarten are expected to have warm and waterproof clothes so they can play outside no matter whether it’s cold or wet. It’s important to have your equipment in order. “Lighter summer gloves and hat are a necessity in Tromsø.” by Ron Røstad

PROUD SUPPLIER OF VIEWS SINCE 1961 Opening hours: 1 June – 31 July: 10:00 – 01:00 1 August – 31 May: 10:00 – 23:00 Departures on the half hour

Tickets: Buytickets on the spot at Fjellheisen ground station Transport: Bus number 26 from Tromsø city centre

Web: fjellheisen.no Visit us: Solliveien 12, Tromsdalen

A Sami family poses by a lavvu 100 years ago.

PEOPLE OF THE NORTH The Sami history and ancient religion are full of tales and mysteries. A long time before any national borders existed, the Sami people of Arctic Europe lived in a wide area that stretches over the regions now known as the northern parts of Norway, Sweden, Finland and the Russian Kola Peninsula. This area is internationally best known as Lapland, but the Sami people of Norway call their area Sapmi.

LARGEST POPULATION

Norway is the country with the largest population of Sami people, around 40,000. In the village of Karasjok in Northern Norway, the Sami people have their own parliament, working to represent the Sami population, and to protect and promote their unique culture. The Sami flag has a circle as symbol for the sun (red) and the moon (blue). These colours may also be found in the characteristic detailed embroidery on the traditional Sami clothing. Most of all the Sami people are known 30

for their free semi-nomadic mountain lives, constantly moving reindeer flocks between the summer grazing land by the coast and the Lapland tundra in the winter. There are about 100,000 reindeer in the Norwegian part of Lapland. The very tasty reindeer meat is considered to be healthy.

DUOJI

The clothing and traditional handicraft of the Sami people (known as duodji) shows that their society has always been very aesthetically oriented. Regular artefacts have been decorated and richly ornamented. Duodji training used to be a natural part of the upbringing and from ancient times was known as a Sami specialty. In the old days, the Sami shamans (known as noaiddit) had a lot of respect in the area, also from other Norwegians. There are countless stories of shaman achievements, both in terms of clairvoyance and their abilities to use witchcraft. by John A . Angelsen

Pictured is Sami man Roar AndrĂŠ Kemi Nyheim, who owns the reindeer used in the tourism activities at Camp Tamok for Lyngsfjord Adventure. Nyheim is renowned for his exciting stories, which he will gladly share with the guests around the open fire at Camp Tamok. Photo: Sweet Films

S E I T I V ACTI ALS T N E R D AN

EXCITING ACTIVITIES / THE RIGHT EQUIPMENT / PROFESSIONAL ADVICE Tromsø Outdoor AS is an activity and rental centre specialising in outdoor activities for individual guests and groups. It is also the only company in Tromsø renting out topnotch equipment for most outdoor activities through the year. Passion, love for our nature, being outdoors, being active, good equipment, friendship, time out, learning new skills, local development and lifestyle, good work environment, professional advice. This is what we do and wish to share with our guests in Tromsø. You will find winter clothes and boots, touring and cross-county skis, splitboards, tripods, camping gear and five trips for individual guests every day. Trips for groups of up to 150 people available on request.

INTRODUCTION TO SKI TOURING 3-3,5 hours, NOK 1499 pp Try the Randonee equipment and challenge yourself with a small ascent and easy descent. GUIDED SNOWSHOE TRIPS 2-hour trip, NOK 795 pp The best way to start your day! Fun and short trip in easy terrain, perfect for novices and families with children. 5-hour trip, NOK 1195 pp Good choice for those wishing to explore more! A challenging hike and encounter with North Norwegian elements at their best.

on prepared trails surrounded by scenic environment. Always great fun! SUMMER ACTIVITIES We offer guided hiking and biking trips. Touring, road, mountain, city and electric bikes for rent. EXPLORE TROMSØ BY E-BIKE 3-hour trip, 995 NOK pp Relaxing activity in a small group with a passionate guide. Experience the fun and freedom of electric bicycles while finding our favourite sites.

GUIDED CROSS COUNTRY SKIING Beginners ski course 3-hour trip, NOK 995 pp A trip planned with novices and beginners in mind. Skiing on flat terrain, mostly

Opening hours: June-August and November-April 9:00-18:00 every day September-October and May: week days 9:00-16:00 / weekends 10:00-15:00 October: week days 9:00-16:00, weekend closed tlf +47 975 75 875 • post@tromsooutdoor.no

www.tromsooutdoor.no 31

SAMI ENCOUNTER The reindeerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s majestic steps in their natural habitat, pull the sled through the snow.

DESTINATION Camp Tamok DURATION 4.5 hours +

Download the app LYNGSFJORD ADVENTURE

Reindeer Sledding R

eindeer sledding is the oldest form of transport in the north, and an ancient part of Sami culture. The reindeer’s majestic steps in their natural habitat move the sled through the snow. The sledding trail crosses the Tamok Valley. You will drive in pairs, with one sled for each reindeer. People of all ages can participate on this very “soft” adventure. This cultural adventure includes trying lasso-throwing, the way the Sami people still catch their reindeers when they are rounded up for marking or slaughter. You will also visit a Sami lavvu (herdsmen’s tent) and you will learn about Sami culture and history with an introduction to traditional Sami handicraft. To conclude this excursion, you will be served a hot meal.

Daytime trips give you an amazing view of the wild mountains in the area, and evening trips in the period November - March will provide a good chance to experience the Northern Lights. INCLUDED ■■ Transportation by bus/minibus ■■ A hot meal ■■ Insulated body suit ■■ Boots, gloves and headwear ■■ English-speaking guide ■■ Evening trips will give you a chance to see the Northern Lights RECOMMENDED ■■ Warm under garments (wool or fleece is recommended) ■■ Vegetarian food will be provided if advance notice is given

SEASON:...........................................November 15 – March 31 DEPARTURE DAYTIME:................. 09:00 outside the Ishavshotel. (Return: 16:00) DEPARTURE EVENING:................ 17:00 outside the Ishavshotel, (Return: 24:00) PRICE:................................................NOK 1,795 (children 4-15 years: 50% discount)

DESTINATION Camp Tamok DURATION 4.5 hours + transport, 7h total

BOOKING:........................................www.lyngsfjord.com +47 77 71 55 88 (09:00 - 17:00)

REINDEER AS CA The bow gate of the landing craft "Sørøysund” opens as the vessel approaches Balsnes ready to devour the Oskal family’s reindeer herd.

RGO The cargo of live reindeer travels under the Tromsø Bridge on a Wednesday afternoon in April. There was space for around 600 reindeer on this journey to the summer pasture.

The modernized landing craft could carry six tanks, each weighing 50 tonnes. In comparison, the Oskal family’s reindeer is lightweight cargo.

he reindeer migration occurs every spring in April-May. The winter pasture is left behind as the Oskal family ’s reindeer run in a herd down by the sea at Balsnes, a 30-minute drive from downtown Tromsø. They will be ferried to Vågnes, which is located on the mainland between Skittenelv and Tønsvik, which is 30 km away as the crow flies. The method that was used, and is still in use in some areas, was to row a reindeer in boat and let the herd swim behind. But the vessel approaching Balsnes is much larger. In fact, it ’s 61.6 m long, 10.3 m wide and weighs 907 tonnes. “ The new breakwater is a great help,” says First Officer Johannes Sørensen to Commanding Officer Ken Bjørnar Johansen on the landing craft “Sørøysund”.

MOVING CLOCKWISE

The landing craft is a former Norwegian Navy vessel. The Norwegian government used its landing craft for tasks other than moving tanks and military equipment. When the Navy scrapped the vessels and sold them to a civil company, the contract to ferry reindeer from summer pasture to winter pasture and vice versa was part of the deal. A ramp is lowered like a big tongue onto the breakwater, while the crew prepare the deck for their live cargo.

The Oskal family ’s reindeer are not the same as other reindeer. They circle around in a herd like a hunted fish shoal – clockwise. The herds normally circle anti-clockwise. “I’ve heard that a herd in Russia goes the same way as our herd. Researchers are unable to determine why our reindeer circles in the opposite direction to other herds,” says Tore Oskal.

STORMING ONBOARD

The Sami reindeer herder enters the wheelhouse of “Sørøysund” to chat with Commanding Officer Johansen. Both men have a twinkle in their eye and can’t stop smiling. But Tore Oskal can’t stay there for long. The cargo is about to be loaded on board, which involves around 600 animals stomping onto the steel deck. They will sound like large hailstones hitting a tin roof. That ’s when the circus breaks loose. A small group of the herd is separated and led towards the vessel, which looks like its mouth is wide open waiting to swallow them. About 100 reindeer sprint down the stone breakwater, before they slow down and view the ship and crew with scepticism. Sami reindeer herders near the back of the herd start shouting to speed up the animals and suddenly they storm through the open gate and continue right to the back of the vessel.

"Sørøysund” approaches the shore at Vågnes and its bow gate opens.

The landing craft’s ramp is lowered and the reindeer are chased on board in groups of around 100 at a time.

The waves of reindeer storming onto the deck continues until “Sørøysund” is full and Commanding Officer Johansen decides it ’s time to set off. Ferrying the live cargo from Balsnes to Vågnes takes an hour and a half. “ The reindeer and us are both longing for the summer pasture. It has been a long winter,” says Berit Oskal, one of several women who are involved in the sea-based spring migration. “Initially, my grandmother and 38

The crew on board “Sørøysund” and the reindeer herders herd the reindeer into several enclosures on the vessel.

I took part, but I now have many sisters-in-law who are also involved,” says Oskal with a smile.

RED SEA It has been a bad year for the Oskal family ’s reindeer herd. The frost arrived in Inner Troms in early November and has remained until late March. Wolverines and lynxes have killed their share of the reindeer and then some. It has taken one week to lead

the herd to Balsnes. As “Sørøysund” approaches the shore at Vågnes and its bow gate opens, it marks the end of the most strenuous months of the year. But the shoreline is too long. The vessel bobs towards the shore, but needs to stop a few metres from firm ground. However, First Officer Sørensen believes that it ’s close enough. Reindeer are excellent swimmers and are unlikely to have anything against

The Oskal family’s reindeer disembark “Sørøysund” to graze on their summer pasture on the coast.

This reindeer was exhausted and didn’t want to walk under its own steam. Luckily the crew lent a helping hand. The vessel is equipped with a sick bay where exhausted animals can relax during the journey.

getting their hooves wet. The crew leads the reindeer out in groups and the reindeer disembark the vessel just as they boarded – with a loud stomping noise on the steel deck. The animals splash into the sea and continue up towards the hillside above. But it proved too much for one reindeer. It collapsed just metres from its long awaited summer pasture, and the shallow water near the shore turns red.

“Sørøysund” was one of two identical vessels that the Norwegian Navy sold to a civil company. The contract to ferry reindeer was part of the deal.

“Do you think it was revolting to watch us kill it,” asks Berit Oskal. She is worried about how the episode will be perceived by those who read the article. “ This sums up the course of nature. Some animals simply can’t manage anymore,” she explains. With what looks like a wide open mouth, “Sørøysund” reverses away from Vågnes. The vessel heads back towards Balsnes to pick up the re-

mainder of the Oskal family ’s reindeer herd. NB! This article has been published in the newspaper iTromsø, and is reproduced here with the permission of the newspaper.

by: Thor A nders A ngelsen, Marius Hansen (photo)

tromsø’s top Fjord & fishing Experience

THE FJORDS IN THE ARCTIC ARE ALIVE. It’s an exciting adventure to explore with Pukka Travels for a day of sailing and sightseeing in the fjords. Spot wildlife, see what’s biting at one of our favourite fishing spots & enjoy a home-cooked meal while out at sea with the crew on a comfortable, safe and warm catamaran.

This “Arcti c Sail Sa fa ri” Opera tes Dail y. 09:00-14:00. 1700 NOK Per Person. Childre n 850 NO K

www.pukkatravels.com Oh My Cod! Get in touch with our team via email, on our website or stop by our base camp support@pukkatravels.com Kirkegata 1. Tromsø, Norway 9008 in central Tromsø to reserve your spot today. +47 993 71 010

THE MAGIC OF

SAMI EXPERIENCE Come and experience our magic winter wonderland with the most charming Arctic animal – the reindeer! Santa Claus got the idea of harnessing a reindeer and jumping on the sled from us! Floating across the snowy landscapes behind a furry bum is truly a unique adventure that we want to offer you during your visit to Tromso and Northern Norway. Our Sami camp is situated in a breathtaking landscape, which is another good reason to go on an excursion with us. You will pass picturesque Arctic mountains, fjords and small rural villages spread along the seashore. We want to welcome you to our magical, happy place where you can see colourful traditional Sami costumes, hear the bells from the reindeer and crackling snow under the reindeer’s feet and feel the reindeer’s curious nose.

at our camp. Maybe you will capture the best selfie with Santa’s helper, Rudolph, at the same time! We believe we can give you the most unforgettable holiday experience focusing on the traditional Sami culture, which goes back hundreds of years. You will be served traditional food and stories by Sami reindeer herders and witness an ancient singing tradition while warming yourself with a hot drink in a traditional Sami herdsmen’s tent, a lavvu.

Our Sami family is delighted to give you an insight into life in the Arctic, past and present. The reindeer sledding safari is a genuine and family-friendly activity where all you need to do is sit on the sled and relax. We will also give you the opportunity to be surrounded by hundreds of swarming reindeer while helping us feed the herd

To book a trip with us, please visit one of the shops and booking offices in Tromso, call us directly on +47 918 57 635, send us an e-mail to post@tromsolapland.no or check our website www.tromsolapland.no.

We are proud to share our culture with our guests and truly hope you will get some precious memories from your excursion with us.

Download the app LYNGSFJORD ADVENTURE

IDEAL LOCATION At Camp Tamok, you find stable dry weather and excellent chances of spotting the frail rays of the Northern Lights.

DESTINATION Camp Tamok DURATION 4.5 hours +

Nortern Lights Visit/Chase T

he Northern Lights visit at our f the sky is cloudy or there is no sign of wilderness camp is an excursion the Northern Lights, we will head off on with the main purpose of watching a Northern Lights chase by minibus. There the Northern Lights - Aurora are several hotspots within a short driving Borealis. Camp Tamok is located distance of the camp. a 75-minute drive inland from the centre of the coastal city of Tromsø. Northern Lights, you will still have The camp is therefore located in a different climate zone. Here, you find good value for money. A trip to the stable dry weather with many days of wilderness camp is an adventure in itself. The dark and quiet surroundclear sky. ings, a genuine Arctic atmosphere. Due to the stable climate of this INCLUDED: location, the persistent Aurora watcher will have excellent chances of ■■ Transportation by bus/minibus spotting the frail rays of this majestic ■■ A hot meal ■■ Insulated body suit beauty. As this is an uninhabited ■■ Boots, gloves and headwear area, no artificial light will disturb ■■ English-speaking guide your experience as you attempt to ■■ Evening trips will give you a chance to capture the Aurora Borealis with see the Norther Lights your camera. During the visit you will be served a hot meal and enjoy a social time around the open fire in the big lavvu (Sami herdsmen’s tent). If the sky is cloudy or there is no sign of the

RECOMMENDED:

■■ Warm under garments (wool or fleece is recommended) ■■ Vegetarian food will be provided if advance notice is given

AVAILABILITY:.................................Every day DEPARTURE:....................................17:00 outside the Ishavshotel, (Return: 24:00) PRICE:................................................NOK 1,195 (children 4-15 years: 50% discount)

DESTINATION Camp Tamok or chase DURATION 4.5 hours + transport, 7h total

BOOKING:........................................www.lyngsfjord.com +47 77 71 55 88 (09:00 - 17:00) 44

Ice Fishing With Snowshoeing D

o you want to join an adventure most people never get to try? This activity includes a snowshoeing walk to a frozen lake, drilling holes in the ice, ice fishing, and tasting the self-caught fish grilled on a bonfire. You will be transported to our wilderness camp where you will receive thermal suits, gloves, boots and hats to keep you warm. You will then have a short ride to the frozen lake before you put on your snowshoeing gear and walk out into the winter wonderland. Enjoy a hot cocoa while fishing, sit back and relax while hopefully catching lots of trout and Arctic char. The activity includes approx. 90 min of ice fishing. The fish you catch will either be prepared on the spot or in the Sami lavvu (Sami herdsmens tent) back at the wilderness camp. Taste your self-

caught catch of the day and/or enjoy our hot meal before heading back to Tromsø. Pick-up by bus or minibus in downtown Tromso, outside the Scandic Ishavshotel by the quayside. The transfer time is 75 min each way to Camp Tamok, the start and end point for your excursion. INCLUDED: ■■ ■■ ■■ ■■ ■■

Transportation by bus/minibus A hot meal Insulated body suit Boots, gloves and headwear English-speaking guide

RECOMMENDED:

■■ Warm under garments (wool or fleece is recommended) ■■ Vegetarian food will be provided if advance notice is given

SEASON:...........................................January 1 – March 31 DEPARTURE DAYTIME:................. 09:00 outside the Ishavshotel. (Return: 16:00) AVAILABILITY: Every day, minimum 2 people PRICE:................................................NOK 1,395 (children 7-15 years: 50% discount)

DESTINATION Camp Tamok DURATION 4.5 hours + transport, 7h total

BOOKING:........................................www.lyngsfjord.com +47 77 71 55 88 (09:00 - 17:00)

AN ARCHITECTURAL MIX Perhaps the first thing you will notice in Tromsø is the wooden houses. In contrast to many other towns in North Norway, Tromsø was not destroyed during the war. It was not only the working class who lived in these wooden houses. Up to the start of last century, monumental buildings were often built of wood. This is modelled on big cities, and in downtown Tromsø you can find traces of Moscow, Athens, Amsterdam, Istanbul, Italy, Bergen and Tokyo. Even the small sausage kiosk on the main market square complete with its onion dome was based on similar buildings overseas. However, despite the attempt to be international, when you wander in Tromsø you will not think for a second that you are actually in Vienna or Paris. In an effort to create a more unique local identity, some buildings have been inspired by nature, such as the Arctic Cathedral with its ice-like, white facade. The Arctic experience centre Polaria and the hotel The Edge also have ice and the cold as themes. While this may be cool, you can also ask yourself if we have enough ice and cold as it is.

HAPPY AMATURERS

The do-it-yourself builder has left their mark on Tromsø. There are many solutions that are clearly built by happy amateurs. This is particularly visible in residential areas, where you can see creative solutions for stairs, balconies or extensions. While some may think this is ugly, it has become part of our cultural heritage. The climate means that you think practically rather than aesthetically. The city has its fair share of non-aesthetic, but practical solutions, which has led to Tromsø having a reputation as an ugly and chaotic city. Ugly or not, once you are here take a look at the buildings that we have built, which we live and work in. In Tromsø, it’s not so common to draw the curtains at night. Feel free to take a discreet peek into our homes because one thing is certain, in Tromsø the inside of the houses is more important than the outside. It’s inside the houses that we spend the most time, and this is where we really put our pride into making it nice.

DOWNING STREET?

As you stroll along, it’s worth taking a closer look at the doors of the old wooden houses. They are often painstakingly made and inspired by antiquity, as was often the case elsewhere in the world at that time. Sjøgata 10 is a good example. This door has columns carved in the wood and you can see a certain resemblance to the front door of a famous number 10, namely Number 10 Downing Street. by: Ron Røstad

FROM CINEMA TO LIBRARY

When Focus cinema opened in 1973, it was a modern and funky building. Nevertheless, this large cinema rapidly became outdated. In 2003 the entire old cinema building was demolished apart from its characteristic roof. A new library was built under the roof, and this new library is well worth a visit. You can warm up while enjoying a nice view of the city. If you visit the small bar Perez in the north of the city centre, you can sit on the old cinema seats.

DEBATE ABOUT HIGH-RISE BUILDINGS Building a high-rise hotel on this site has been planned since the early 1990s, but the height was so controversial that for a long time the municipal council opposed it. Every time high-rise buildings are proposed, it triggers debate. However, high-rise buildings have one undisputed advantage: the view from the top. A visit to the hotel’s Sky bar is recommended.

OLDEST STREET

Sjøgata is the oldest street in Tromsø and Northern Norway. This was the main street in Tromsø until Storgata took over in the late 19th century. Many of the buildings were destroyed during the big fire in 1969, but thankfully some were preserved.

PLUSH TOWN

If you wander in the streets slightly above the city centre, you will find the so-called “plush town”. In the late 19th century, the privileged residents built their summer residences here. It was a never-ending party during the brief but bright summers. It was not uncommon for the people here to go from house to house looking for a party without giving a thought to the time. Someone was always awake. In time, these houses became permanent residences year-round, but to this day this is considered a better part of town.

WHAT TROMSØ WAS LIKE

A SQUARE TO WARM UP IN

Tromsø is a region that is rich in food. If you visit Kystens Hus, you can buy fish, meat and other products from traditional, local producers or enjoy local food in the restaurant. The big stairs in the middle of the building provide visitors the opportunity to sit down and watch life go by without freezing or sitting at a café. The architecture is controversial. Some think the black facades are sad, while others perceive it as a stylish, modern building. The Coastal House unites two things that are important to Tromsø: fish and controversial architecture.

Unlike Stockholm or Tallinn, Tromsø does not have an Old Town. Actually, all of downtown Tromsø is an old town. The oldest houses, which are up to 200 years old, are spread fairly evenly across the entire city. At the northern end of the city centre, you will find an area that is characterized by modern architecture to a lesser extent than otherwise. You will also find a street that is built on the model of Tromso in the 19th century. Several older wooden houses have been moved to this area and the street has streetlights that resemble the earliest electric street lights. The street is “macadamised” and not asphalted. The pavement, or trottoir as it was called in Tromsø in the old days, consists of slate slabs and the gutter is made of cobblestones.

FIRST LINE OF DEFENCE

The history of Tromsø dates back to the 13th century when a church and a fortress were established here. The fortress was originally situated on an islet with a clear view of the strait. In all likelihood, the fortress was surrounded by a palisade. Today, the fortress is not quite as impressive. There are no towers and walls, but there is a circular earth wall. Modest or not, this was Norway’s first line of defence against a possible attack from Novgorod. It’s fair to say that Skansen was the Western European civilisation’s absolute outpost in the north and east and the beginning of 800 years (so far unfounded) of fear of Russian aggression.

Polar Night Half Marathon

FESTIVALS AND EVENTS IN TROMSØ 2019

5 Jan

Around 1,700 people take part in races of various distances in Arctic winter conditions during the Polar Night. Last year, around 700 people from 46 different countries travelled from overseas to take part. Those travelling from abroad were excited about running in wintry conditions with snow, wind and an icy surface. www.msm.no

Northern Lights Festival 25 Jan-3 Feb An international music festival presenting high quality concerts and performances to a broad audience. The festival’s goal is to make Northern Norway an attractive destination. www.nordlysfestivalen.no

There’s something special about Tromsø. The city has an international touch, with a well-known university, an excellent scientific environment, the highest concentration of bars per capita in Norway and last, but not least, a range of festivals and cultural events throughout the year. Tromsø International Film Festival 14-20 Jan The Tromsø International Film Festival is a popular film festival for both local and visiting audiences, and is anw important meeting point for the Norwegian and international film industries. www.tiff.no

Sami Week

Feb

The annual Sami Week in Tromsø coincides with the Sami National Day on 6 Feb. During a week packed with activities, you have a unique chance to experience Sami culture, including reindeer racing, in the middle of a modern city. www.msm.no

Midnight Sun Marathon

22 June

Welcome to the Arctic city of Tromsø at 69°N and the Midnight Sun Marathon, the world’s northernmost AIMS-certified marathon. Choose between five different distances: Marathon, Half Marathon, TINE 10K Race, Coop Mini-Marathon (4.2km) and the Children’s Fun Run (Labb og Line løpet). www.msm.no

Rakettnatt 23-24 Aug In late August, when the Aurora Borealis has started its dance in the heavens, one of the best festivals inside the Arctic circle happens in Tromsø. The city has an energetic art and music scene, a wealth of locally-sourced fine food and drink and a surrounding landscape that is not only spectacular but also so beautiful that is actually “sexually provocative”. www.rakettnatt.no

Bukta Open Air Festival

Smak Festival

18-20 July

This is one of the best outdoor rock festivals in Norway, with a vision to create a unique festival experience for the public, volunteers, artists and collaborators. The focus is rock, beer and seafood at the city’s beach, Telegrafbukta, within walking distance of the city centre. The festival presents quality local, regional, national and international artists. www.bukta.no

Sept

SMAK is the food festival for Northern Norway, arranged in the middle of Tromsø. Hosted by award-winning food producers, high quality cultivating products, great restaurants and food education to be proud of. SMAK aims to be Norway’s leading food festival, showcasing the diversity of the amazing ingredients, food culture and the expertise that exists in the Arctic region. www.smakfest.no

Insomnia Festival Oct Insomnia is a festival for innovative electronic music, which means music created with electronic contraptions. Tromsø is renowned for breeding innovative artists within the field of electronic music. The Insomnia Festival seeks to develop the creative energy this has given rise to by creating a platform for new electronic music and techno culture. www.insomniafestival.no

2 01 8 / 2 019

Concerts in the

Arctic Cathedral winter 2018/2019 New Years Eve Concert

Northern lights concerts

December 31 2018 at 21:00 Duration 45 minutes Tickets NOK 300 / 50

Every night Thursday to Sunday February 07 to March 31, 2019 Starts at 23:00. NOK 195/50

Photo: Yngve Olsen SĂŚbbe

Tickets at entrance or online www.ishavskatedralen.no

Galleri

nord

GALLERI / RAMMEVERKSTED / ATELIER

Welcome to Galleri NORD at SjĂ¸gata 7 in the heart of TromsĂ¸. At our gallery, you will find pictorial art, handicrafts and design products from local and national artists. We also sell photographs of Northern Norway taken by award-winning photographers, art cards and other gift articles. We are open every day, including Sunday. W W W. H I L D E S L E T@gallerinord VO L D. N O /gallerinord

PER MARTINSEN

Age: 51 Civil status: Married, children Lives in: Apartment in an old hose in the city centre Favourite café/bar: Verdensteateret Bar og Kafé Tips for tourists: Visit the suburbs of Stakkevollan, Håpet and Kroken Typical Sunday activity: Go on a hike or a city walk with a cup of coffee

The People of Tromsø

THE ARCTIC DJ Per Martinsen is a DJ and musician who lives in Tromsø. His interest in music started when he at age three he started playing single records on his mother’s old portable record player. “The first record I bought myself was one by T-Rex. I bought it at the local grocery store in 1972. Back then it was normal to sell LPs at grocery stores. I like the idea that music was classed alongside food as a primary need,” says Martinsen. Martinsen grew up in Tromsø in the 1970s. Things were a lot different back then. “We didn’t have much access to information. There was only one TV channel and one radio channel.” Martinsen did not think there was anything unusual about growing up in Tromsø. “It was only when I started to watch American youth films that it struck me how many toys and other things there were in what were supposed to be normal American children’s bedroom. The rooms were overflowing with things. This was before the

When I listened to Kraftwerk for the first time, the lights started flashing all over Tromsø. 54

wealth came to Norway along with oil in the 1980s and we did not have so many things,” says Martinsen. However, hobby electronics was one thing that existed. “I built my own FM radio, video games and other things. I was a real ‘hardware hacker’ who liked to unscrew things. My mother’s old record player ended up in small pieces and was never reassembled.” He discovered electronic music through the German band Kraftwerk. “When I listened to Kraftwerk for the first time, the lights started flashing all over Tromsø. There were a number of small power cuts in the city, as if it was a sign from the beyond. I realized that electronics and music could unite. Electronic music was for me,” says Martinsen.

ARCTIC SOUND

There was an electronic music wave in Tromsø in the 1990s, with names such as Bel Canto, Biosphere and Röyksopp. Martinsen lived in London at the time and produced industrial electronica without a hint of the Arctic, but he does not rule out that the environment influences the music of artists with links to Northern Norway. “Music friends from London have described North Norwegian electronica and ambient music as distinctive. There are blankets of sound and more space. It may be related to the environment here. The darkness, the sky and the openness. Biosphere (Geir Jenssen) is best known for this,” he says. However, the Arctic winter is not only dark. “When I think back to my childhood, I don’t remember the winter as being dark. I perceived it as light. Perhaps it’s because the snow changes the perception of darkness.

The darkest evenings I experienced were in Tanzania and India.”

LITTLE TOWN BLUES

Martinsen loves big cities. However, he moved back to Tromsø in 2005 after 20 years, including periods living in Oslo and Berlin. He has settled down with his wife and children. “We moved back to Tromsø at a time when a lot was happening with the cultural life in the city. An art academy was established here and many cultural people moved here.” Martinsen is married to Aggie Frost Peterson, who is also a musician, and they do a lot of things together. “Among other things, we made music for silent films in conjunction with the Tromsø Film Festival. We went on a tour of Russia with the music. It has been an exciting time in Tromsø, but the big cities beckon constantly. As father of young children, he thinks Tromsø is a good place for children, but other places also have qualities. “The whole family lived in East London for a few months and we enjoyed life there. They have made a major effort to make the area better for children and young people, including by building nice children’s play areas. I have a daughter and she cried when she saw the little slide at the play area at Strandtorget in Tromsø,” says Martinsen. If you want to find the essence of Tromsø, Martinsen recommends walking along the quayside. “This is where you can see Tromsø’s character best. You can see the city, the boats, the Tromsø Bridge and landscape.” by: Ron Røstad

The NorTherN LighTs FesTivaL 2019 The Northern Lights Festival, which runs from 25 January to 3 February, will feature around 60 exciting concerts and high-quality performances in downtown Tromsø. This is a large-scale dance and music festival where we guarantee everyone will find something of interest. The inaugural Northern Light Festival in 1988 focused on classical music. Since then, the festival has evolved to cover a broad range of styles and artists and is now a 10-day music festival. Over the years, the Northern Lights Festival has presented an impressive list of performers, soloists as well as orchestras. World-class artists and ensembles guest the festival each year, with highlights including the international ballet and opera stars of the Bolshoi and Mariinsky. International stars from the world of jazz, classical music and entertainment have also guested the festival, alongside leading national, regional and local performers. The Northern Lights Festival is a bold music

festival that presents a unique and varied programme of music and dance.

acoustically and focus on the lyrics. This promises to be a memorable evening.

“We aim to be an arctic music festival that engages a wide audience, and where you can experience performances you would otherwise never have had the opportunity to experience in our region,” says the Director of the Northern Light Festival, Line Fusdahl.

That is also likely to be the case when father and daughter Eberson come to Tromsø with their new jazz band. Their debut album Empathy is scheduled for release in November, so you will have plenty of time to hear the band in advance.

The 2019 edition of the festival features everything from a comprehensive classical programme to modern hip-hop with a new twist.

This is only a tiny taste of our diverse programme, which you are welcome to read about in more detail on our website, www.nordlysfestivalen.no/en/. We guarantee you will find something of interest.

Among many highlights, the Norwegian group Barokksolistene will play two completely different concerts during the festival. The first is Purcell Playground at the Tromsø Cathedral with soloist Berit Norbakken Solseth, while a few days they will transform The Edge into a brown pub when they perform Alehouse Sessions. It’s also worth mentioning that the rapper Klish will appear at the festival like you have never seen him before. Along with brilliant musicians, he will break down his songs

NORDLYS FESTIVALEN

Here are some of tHe performances you can experience during tHe 2019 nortHern LigHts festivaL: 25 January: eberson // 30 January: KLisH acoustic // 31 January: aLeHouse session // 1 February: tHe cavern beatLes // 1-2 February: baLLet gaLa 55

MEMORIES FOR LIFE, PROVIDED BY LOCAL EXPERTS

Sleep in a cozy cabin in the wilderness, yet close to the joys of the urban city life. Enjoy a delicious breakfast with views of the river and surrounding mountains. Refreshed after a great night’s sleep, go dog sledding like a real musher, snowmobiling in spectacular scenery, hunt for the Northern Lights, or go whale watching in nearby fjords. We know all the fun stuﬀ to do, and we will gladly help you with your planning! TROMSØ LODGE & CAMPING - THE PERFECT BASE FOR YOUR ARCTIC DREAM HOLIDAY!

free parking

free wi-ﬁ

sauna

bar

open all year

www.tromsolodgeandcamping.no | +47 776 38 037 | post@tromsocamping.no 56

L o c a l c r a f t s , n e w N o r w e g i a n d e s i g n , i n t e r i o r, s o u v e n i r s a n d g i f t i t e m s .

Norwegian design

Tradition and renewal

Norsk Flid Husfliden in Tromsø has an outstanding selection of local crafts, new Norwegian design, interior, souvenirs and gift items. The traditional Norwegian bunad, the national costume, is the backbone of the Norwegian chain with over 30 shops all over Norway, and in Tromsø we specialize in manufacturing and delivering complete traditional bunads from Northern Norway such as the Nordlandsbunad for both men and women, the Tromsbunad for both men and women, the Balsfjordbunad, Malangsdrakten and the Tromsø Festdrakt. Every week throughout the year we sew meters and meters by hand at our local shop, creating these treasured traditional costumes. This way we hope to carry this local costume history on to the next generation. You’ll also find a wide range of accessories for bunad, such as silk scarves, hair bands, shoes and silverware. Norsk Flid Husfliden also features a large selection of yarn, handmade clothing and footwear, wooden items, ornaments and quality gift items. All products are of traditional or modern, high quality Norwegian design.

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With its superbl y firm white meat, this giant of the sea ranks among the most impressive and exquisite shellfish you can ser ve. King Crab

ARCTIC DISHES Produce grown in the Arctic develops a unique taste. This may be attributed to several reasons: sun around the clock, a cold climate and a lack of pollution.

rctic produce has always been highly sought after. Some of our produce is renowned far beyond the countr yâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s borders, while others are virtually unknown and are ready for a larger audience. Here are a few details about some of the best known:

LAMB

The lambs are released onto the pastures in June and the North Norwegian summer, which is rarely too hot, provides an abundance of food and nourishing herbs. Sheep and lamb are a bit fussy about their diet, but find many of their favourite foods in the Arctic regions. They enjoy a varied diet and often wander from mountain peak down to the seashore, which we have a lot of. This generates ver y fit lambs with plenty of marbled fat and lots of flavour. You can almost taste the North Norwegian

nature when you eat the lamb. They wander in the g reat outdoors almost from their birth until they are slaughtered and they consume minimal quantities of g rain feed. Since it is impossible to find better g rowing condition, lamb from the Arctic is among the ver y best in the world.

KING CRAB

For a long time, there was major debate about whether the king crab was actually welcome along

Pan roast of cod loin

The moose is Norway’s largest wild deer species. There is little commercial sale of moose meat, but the moose hunting season each autumn generates large revenues. Moose meat is lean and the taste varies according to the animal’s diet.

Ing redients (4 ser vings) 4 loins Norwegian cod fillets 1 kg potato, new 400 g g reen beans 1 lemon 4 cloves garlic 10 leaves sage 4 tbsp olive oil Pe pper, fresh cracked salt

Procedure

Moose

SPAWNING COD

Cod is perhaps the main reason why people live in the Arctic. It has been the most important commodity since time immemorial, for e xport as well as domestic

in olive oil and sage. Squeeze in lemon juice, tuck in the lemon skins and garlic cloves.

3. Season with a little salt and pepper

The Old Norwegian is a primitive and extremel y old species of shee p. The y are descendents of shee p that have existed in Norway for more than 3000 years. Combined with other shee p species , the Old Norwegian is light-footed and fast and can g raze outside all year round.

the Norwegian coast. One thing that is not up for debate is that it is a fresh ing redient from the ver y top shelf. The king crab is a versatile ing redient that can be prepared in a variety of ways. It is on a par with Norway lobster and the European lobster. Its legs are crammed full of delicious, juicy meat without a lot of bones and cartilage. As it has no enemies, the king crab has made its entr y along the entire North Norwegian coast and is thriving in our clean, unspoiled and cold waters.

1. Preheat oven to 200*C 2. In large roasting tin, toss potatoes

and roast in oven for 15 minutes.

4. Whilst potatoes roast, blanch green beans in a pan of boiling water for 3-4mins.

5. Drain well then toss through the

potatoes, ensure they are coated in oil.

6. Lay fish fillets on top and season consumption. Cod – and in particular the spawning cod in winter – remains a ver y important part of the North Norwegian livelihood. When the cod (known as skrei in Norwegian) finally reach the coast in Januar y/Februar y after a long mig ration from the Barents Sea, it is in e xcellent physical condition and ready to

with a little more salt and pepper. Drizzle fish with a little olive oil and roast in oven for around 12 more minutes or until fish is opaque and cooked through (cooking time may vary depending on your fillet size).

7. Serve immediately, pouring over the delicious roasting juices.

Cod

Cloudber r y

The famous North Norwegian chef Adolf Henrik Lindstrøm, partisipated on expedtitions with Roald Amundsen and Fridtjof Nansen. Lindstrøm is the inventor of the dish ’steak á la Lindstrøm”.

spawn. Owing to the long mig ration, the loin is much thicker and the meat quality is far higher than for other cod. It is packed full of flavour and has a wonderful te xture. The meat is as white as chalk and full of nutrients. The Arctic spawning cod is an ing redient that chefs worldwide recognize as something special. It is right up there with the likes of truffle, caviar and foie g ras. It’s a real luxur y product.

HALIBUT

Halibut is another fish with a long histor y in our Arctic region. It is also called hellefisk (translated as holy fish), which is derived from the Norse name heilag r fiskr. This indicates the status this fish has had throughout histor y. Rock art that is more than 10,000 years old has been found, which celebrates the halibut as a fish of the gods. Halibut was often eaten on

Halibut 60

Fish farm

special occasions and remains a luxur y item. Halibut can be ver y large and it is not uncommon to catch halibut weighing well over 100 kg. The record for the largest halibut ever caught is 314.5 kg.

SHRIMPS

Shrimps from clean Arctic waters have plentiful access to food. As a result, the shrimps can g row big and fat and develop plenty of flavour. They almost taste a bit sweet. Shrimps can be eaten in the traditional manner with bread and mayonnaise or can be prepared in many different ways. Raw shrimps – shrimps that have not been boiled – have a sweet taste and can be perceived almost like fat on the palate. They are perfect for frying and very receptive to taste. Try shrimp in sushi or salad or perhaps in a wok dish.

In 2014 Norway’s exports of salmon and trout totalled NOK 46.2 billion. The average price for fresh whole salmon was NOK 41.06 per kilo, which re presented a 3.4% rise from the previous year.

CLOUDBERRIES

These small orange flavour bombs g row almost e xclusively in the Arctic. They thrive best in marshlands, but can also g row in common heath. They have a sweet characteristic, intense flavour that is a little reminiscent of peaches, but a completely unique and distinctive taste that simply must be e xperienced. Cloudberries are quite susceptible to weather and frost can destroy an entire cloudberr y crop. It takes a long time for cloudberries to ripen and they are often not ready to pick until the late summer or early autumn.

VEGETABLES/POTATOES Not all vegetables are suited to g rowing in the Arctic, but the vegetables that do g row here develop an e xceptional flavour.

Stockfish

Steak à la Lindstrøm

Ing redients

400 g mince 1 tsp salt 1/4 tsp pe pper 1 egg 100 ml milk 2 boiled potatoes (diced) 2 T finel y chopped onion 2 T finel y chopped pickled beetroot 2 T gherkin (chopped) 1 T ca pers 2 T butter or cooking oil for fr ying

This article is written by Halvar Ellingsen. He has been a regular member of the Norwegian Culinary Team since 2009. Inspite of his young age, Ellingsen has won several awards. Ellingsen works at the well reputed Palace Grill restaurant in Oslo.

Procedure

Mix the mince with salt and pepper and stir in the milk and beaten egg.

2. Stir the potato, onion, beetroot, gherkin and capers into the mixture.

3. Form into eight high patties. Melt the

butter in a frying pan and fry the patties over moderate heat for 2-3 minutes on each side. Serve with fried potatoes, fried egg and pickled beetroot. Reindeer

Slightly cool summers and slightly harsh growing conditions help the vegetables to develop far more flavour than vegetables that grow elsewhere. North of the Arctic Circle, we cultivate a wonderful potato called gulløye (literally translated as “yellow eye”). It has a delicate yellow flesh, a slightly floury texture and a strong potato flavour.

REINDEER

If there is one ing redient that is truly Arctic then it has to be reindeer. Large areas with abundant food make the Arctic perfect for reindeer. The reindeer is well equipped to sur vive the cold and snow in the north and it has few enemies. Reindeer meat is lean and full of flavour. The meat is tender and can be cooked in a

host of ways, ranging from stews and barbecues to pan-fr ying as steak. These are but a few of the wonderful ingredients we have here. The excellent ingredients enable the chefs to create delicious dishes based on local ingredients.

EMMAS DRØMMEKJØKKEN

Dreamful cuisine at på Drøm deg bort

Emma’s Dream Kitchen Emmas Drømmekjøkken With its midnight sun in the summertime and the aurora borealis in the winter months, Tromsø, Paris of the North, is a city which attracts royalty and commoners alike. The restaurant Emma’s Godt hjulpet av mange års matstell, en entusiastisk og profesjonell stab og en Dream Kitchen in Tromsø´s city center is another local institution that manages to attract patrons imaginær drømmekvinne, har Anne Brit Andreassen skapt et høyt renommert spisefrom all layers of society with charm. sted hvor detits er homely det høyt under taket og latteren sitter løst. Emmas Drømmekjøkken i Kirkegata 8, vis-à-vis den domkirken i Tromsø With the invaluable helpligger of an experienced, enthusiastic andvakre not least, professional staffsentrum. and not forgetting the imaginary perfect hostess, Brit Andreassen has established highly renowned restaurant with a most HYGGEAnne OG KOS Å innta et måltid på Emmasakan være både intimt og høytidelig, men welcoming atmosphere,først Emma’s Dream Kitchen. It is situated across the road from the beautiful wooden cathedral og fremst hjemmehyggelig og avslappende. Den veltilberedte maten er alltid in the center of Tromsø, velsmakende. in Kirkegata 8.

Comfort and Cosy Sjenerøsitet, omsorg og kjærlighet blandet med høy faglig ekspertise er noen av Dining in Emma’s can besuksessfaktorene both intimate and formal, but above all homely relaxing. The perfectly preparedskal food is always hos Emma og hennes stab. and De yter maksimalt for at gjestene tasty. Emmas and the staff want to ensure that it will be a joy and pleasure to dine at the Dream Kitchen. Generosity, care, kose seg og at det skal være en glede og fest å spise hos dem. love and consideration, together with extremely high expertise have been the main factors behind the restaurant’s success. ÆRLIG MAT FISK I FOKUSdining Emma er vel bevandret i den store franske They do their utmost to EKTE ensureOG their guests haveMED a most enjoyable experience. mattradisjonen, og merker seg trender og moter innen kokkekunsten. Gode ideer fra Genuine and honestverdenskjøkkenet food har hun sans for. Tross dette setter hun størst pris på det som Emma is well versed in traditional French cuisinemat; and also keeps abreast of the latestslik trends, nordpå heter skikkelig veltillaget av lokale råvarer, vårefashion mødreand og culinary beste- skills. She is always open to good ideas from the kitchen around the world, but above all she appreciates as they say in the north, mødre lagde det. Boknafisk av skrei og fiskegrateng er to autentiske nordnorske “real food”: well preparedretter local produce, just like our mothers and their mothers before them used to make. Boknafisk of som ikke tas av menyen selv om man endrer andre sesongbaserte retter minst skrei (short-dried cod) and au gratin areEkthet two such North Norwegian always remain on 5-6fish ganger per år. ogauthentic ærlighet er andre stikkorddishes. for denThey gode opplevelsen påthe menu even though the other dishes are changed at least 5-6 times a year, according to season. Honesty and authenticity are two Emmas Drømmekjøkken. more keywords used to describe the dining experience at Emma´s Dream Kitchen. FOLKELIG OG UPRETENSIØS Emmas Under ligger på gateplan. Der restauranten i øvre down to earth and unpretentious etasje har en klassisk eleganse, har de på Emmas Under grepet tidsånden og skapt Emma’s UNDER is on the ground floor (street level). While the restaurant upstairs has a classic elegance, in Emma’s UNDER et upretensiøst og folkelig spisested. Velkomponerte og svært rimelige menyer ukethey have captured the spirit of a time gone by and created a down to earth and unpretentious restaurant. One can enjoy dagene gjennom er blitt en suksess. Man kan i tillegg få de samme retter på Emmas a meal in relaxed surroundings at prices all can afford. These well composed weekday menus have been a success and are Under som på Emmas Drømmekjøkken om kvelden. Fiskegrateng har blitt stedets very popular with the folk in Tromsø. In the evenings, the dishes served in the Dream Kitchen are also available downstairs signaturrett, og til lunsj serveres denne og flere andre lette og raske retter til svært in Emma´s UNDER. Fish au gratin has become the restaurant´s signature dish. This and many more light, quickly-served hyggelige priser. dishes are included in the lunch menu.

opening hours emmas drømmekjøkken: Åpningstider Emmas Drømmekjøkken: Monday – Thursday from 18.00 Mandag – torsdag Friday – Saturday from 17.30 fra 18.00 Fredagunder: – Lørdag fra 17.30 opening hours emmas Åpningstider Emmas Under: Monday – Saturday 11.00 – 22.00

Mandag – lørdag 11.00 – 22.00

emmas drømmekjøkken

Emmas Drømmekjøkken, 8, 9008Tromsø Kirkegata 8, Kirkegata 9008Tromsø

Telefon: +47 Phone: +47 77 63 77 3077 63 77 30. www.emmas.as www.emmas.as www.facebook.com/EmmasDrommekjokken www.facebook.com/EmmasDrommekjokken

Ã¸

63 63

Welcome to Amtmandens Eftf, a cosy café & bar in the heart of Tromsø, with a wide selection of local beverages. The food at Amtmandens is as simple as it is delicious. Tasty cheeses and charcuterie from Italy, France and Spain combined with local ingredients served on a board. Amtmandens Eftf. Grønnegata 83, 9008 Tromsø www.amtmandens.no

Mon – Thur: 15:00 – 01:00 Friday: 15:00 – 02:00 Saturday: 12:00 – 02:00

ARCTIC TASTING We welcome you to The Arctic Tasting Experience, a vibrant and tasty hour-long session during which you will taste exclusive food and drinks from local producers north of the Arctic Circle. The tasting will be accompanied by interesting stories about Arctic life and nature presented by our host through photos, film and music. Advance bookings are essential for this event.

Starting point: 2pm (14.00) Monday-Saturday Duration: 1 hour Price : NOK 499 per person Booking: post@amtmandens.no www.amtmandens.no

Bardus Bistro & Bar is at its heart a Northern Norwegian experience. A traditional Northern kitchen & cocktail bar dedicated to combining the finest products in the region to produce the highest quality experience. Big flavours and casual service is what defines Bardus, whether itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s serving the finest local produce such as reindeer, king crab, moose or fresh fish in the Bistro or the finest Arctic cocktails in the Bar.

OPENING HOURS SEE MATHALLENTROMSO.NO

BOOKING POST@MATHALLENTROMSO.NO P H O N E + 47 77 6 8 01 0 0 MATHALLENTROMSO.NO

THE RESTAURANT

THE DELI

Ingredients hand-picked by our chef are the secret behind our tasty lunches and delightful restaurant experiences. Menu items may change, but we always offer the absolute best in locally-sourced, seasonal meat and fish dishes, inspired by traditional northern Norwegian culinary tradition.

Mathallen offers great tasting, locally sourced products including fresh fish, meat products, cheeses, hams, and other delicious treats. In short: the best the culinary world has to offer.

FIND US AT GRÃ&#x2DC;NNEGATA 58/60

LEGENDARY PIZZA

ARCTIC PIZZA, TAKO PIZZA, YONAS SPECIAL AND MANY MORE... Yonas ﬁrst turned on its pizza oven in 1974 and has ever since been the “real thing” when it comes to pizza in Tromsø. With its 43 years of operations, generations have grown up with Yonas pizza and Yonas still continues to serve and delight the local incrowd with fresh, home-made pizzas.

With over 200 seats, its location at the waterfront and its view over the Arctic Cathedral, One can enjoy a wide variety of tasteful combinations! No reservations needed, just come in and make yourself comfortable. Did you know that pizzas from Yonas are so popular that we sent them by express all over Europe?! OPENING HOURS: Monday – Sunday 11:00 – 23.30 Samuel Arnesens gate 10, Tromsø Phone: +47 77 66 66 66 www.yonas.no

ALSO OPEN FOR DELIVERY! PLEASE VISIT YONAS.NO TO SUBMIT YOUR ORDER! 68 68

From the moment you walk through the doors at Presis Tapas, you forget that you are in Tromsø. The feeling of a warm summer’s day in the tropics or a cosy backyard in Spain hits you with love.

“Presis - where it’s always summer” The food we serve combines locally sourced produce with inspiration from the Arctic and Spain. The whole restaurant screams summer and love. Come and enjoy Sangria and delicious food with your favourite people.

Tue - thu 16:00 - 22:00, fri 16:00 - 23:00, sat 18:00 - 23:00 Storgata 36, above Circa - presistapas.no - presistapas@gmail.com - +47 77 68 10 20 69

W E L C OM E T O T H E STA RT OF YOUR NORTHERN LIGHTS JOURNEY IN TROMSÃ&#x2DC;!

E-mail: info@northernlightstromso.no / Phone: +47 911 955 18 / www.northernlightstromso.no 70 70

We offer a range of Northern Lights chases to fit everyone’s needs. Our main focus is small groups. Our personal touch ensures your experience will be unforgettable. Let us take you out to wherever the weather is the best to maximize your chances of seeing the most beautiful light show nature has to offer. Photos from the tour are always included in the price!

SMALL GROUP CHASE:

NOK 1.270 per person

PRIVATE GROUP:

NOK 9.970 per car

CHASE BY BUS:

NOK 940 per person

For further information and online booking, please visit our website www.northernlightstromso.no

NORTHERN LIGHTS TROMSØ 71

Where your Arctic adventure begins Welcome to TromsĂ¸â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s brand new Official Tourist Information Centre at Prostneset Port Terminal. We offer the widest selection of activities. We love to give you information and to help you choose the perfect activities to make your stay unforgettable. You can also book your activities right now online at Visittromso.no.

We look forward to seeing you!

STAY SMART IN TROMSØ

Our budget hotel Smarthotel Tromsø opened April 2013 right in the middle of Tromsø city center. We are proud of our Nordic interior design and want you to feel welcome and at home with us. We are collaborating with the best arctic companies, and will make sure your chances of seeing the northern light is at its best. We will of course help you book your whale safari, midnight sun or dog sledge excursion, and don’t forget to visit the famous Fjellheisen where you will get the best view over Tromsø. Our concept is to provide you with cheap accommodation, with high quality, simplicity and comfort.

Order your next stay at smarthotel.no and get a delicious Scandinavian breakfast included.

WHAT ARE YOU PLANNING FOR YOUR NEXT

HOLIDAY? Few places can match the beautiful and undiscovered hidden winter fjords of Northern Norway. The rough and mighty alps rise directly from pristine fjords up to high snow-capped peaks. Even in the darkest period of the Polar Night, the blue pastel colours in the Arctic sky are magnificent. Adding an extra dimension, on clear evenings the mysterious landscape is often illuminated by the legendary Northern Lights.

HIDDEN FJORD CRUISE

HIGHLIGHTS: -

Experience the Arctic & Polar Night on the small expedition ship M/V Quest

Amazing opportunities to see the Northern Lights

Possibilities for Northern Light photography (tripod) from the shore

Northern Norwegian wildlife including White-tailed Eagles, Orcas and Humpback Whales

Beautiful snow-capped mountains and pristine wilderness

Polar city of TromsĂ¸ & remote Norwegian villages

READY TO BOOK?

Experience the life North of the Arctic Circle in the Polar Night

Selections of local harbours with possibilities to experience local history, culture and lifestyle.

Availability: 11 January â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 15 March Price: from NOK 4,250 per person per day Includes: Accommodation, full pension, guiding every day, snowshoe hike and programme on the boat. Coffee/tea/water always available.

WHALE SAFARI CRUISE AND ARCTIC RIB EXPERIENCE Combine a whale watching safari with a rigid inflatable boat (RIB) trip and enjoy the best out of both worlds. Join us on the regular whale cruise on the catamaran Aurora Explorer out from Tromsø and, just before we reach the area where the whales normally are, it’s time to dress warmly and hop into the RIB for an authentic Arctic close-up encounter with these beautiful big mammals. Availability: Price:

Daily from 26 October until 31 January NOK 1,800 per person

WHALE SAFARI CRUISE From late October to mid-February some of the world’s biggest mammals visit the coast outside Tromsø to feed on herrings. The most common whale species we see are the humpback whale, killer whale (orca), harbour porpoise and sometimes even the fin whale. You are invited on board for a close-up look at the feast. We depart every day at 9:00 from downtown Tromsø – Kystens Hus. We stay in the whale feeding area for up to 90 minutes. Please note: Whale sightings cannot be guaranteed. Availability: Includes: Duration: Level: Price: Children: (under 12)

Daily from 26 October until 31 January Transportation, life jacket, hot drink, biscuits and winter warm suit. 5-7 hours (daily at 9.00) Easy / Family NOK 1,400 per person from NOK 700

You can buy cold drinks and food onboard.

SVALBARD CRUISE TO BARENTSBURG AND PYRAMIDEN During the summer we are based in the Norwegian High Arctic in Spitsbergen. We run daily sightseeing trips on the Isfjord, one of the largest fjords in the Svalbard archipelago. Highlights include glaciers, characteristic layered and flat-topped mountains, a rich bird life and cultural relics from all Svalbard’s historic eras. We offer daily departures from Longyearbyen to Barentsburg and Pyramiden on our comfortable high-speed vessel MV Aurora Explorer. ONE-DAY TOUR: Longyearbyen – Barentsburg – Longyearbyen – Pyramiden – Longyearbyen Adult: NOK 2,900 Child (age 2-14): NOK 1,450 Child (under 2): Free Longyearbyen – Barentsburg – Longyearbyen Adult: NOK 1,500 Child (age 2-14): NOK 700 Child (under 2): Free Longyearbyen – Pyramiden – Longyearbyen Adult: NOK 1,800 Child (age 2-14): NOK 850 Child (under 2): Free

NORTHERN LIGHTS CRUISE Cruise out from downtown Tromsø with Arctic Explorer in the evening in safe and calm waters to enjoy beautiful views of the city, mountains, fjords and the Northern Lights (aurora borealis). The different locations we visit on this cruise provide different views of the sky with several possibilities of spotting the Northern Lights. We cruise in a high-class comfortable and very stable boat with space inside and outside. Includes: Duration: Level: Price: Children: (under 12):

Transportation, life jacket, hot drink, biscuits and winter warm suit. 4 hours Easy / Family NOK 1,400 per person from NOK 700

You can buy cold drinks and food onboard.

For booking: www.arcticexplorer.no. For enquiries, please call +47 918 00 000 or e-mail booking@arcticexplorer.no 77

SMØRTORGET was the hub of activity for more

than 200 years. Smør torget (The Butter Market) was where butter and other dair y products were sold in the 19th centur y, and was also the site of Tromsø’s first roundabout. Today, the buildings of Smør torget have been revived, and filled with love to comprise a lively ar tistic environment. Search for second hand treasures from the last centur y in Edel's vintage shop, where you can find furniture, porcelain, glassware, silver, fun retro clothes, unusual trinkets, beautiful textiles and more. Enjoy the smells and f lavours of homemade pastries and savour hot and cold lunch dishes, porridge, soup, organic drinks and espresso-based local coffees in the café.

IN 2013, Smør torget returned to life when the founders took the initiative to create a common square: the new Butter Market. By establishing the 78

new Smør torget, the desire was to contribute to new life in the square. The old market has a long tradition of exchanging , trading and socialising , and the co-location of several businesses has helped to maintain this feeling. The vision was to create a vibrant atmosphere with ar tistic and creative activity, where aromas from the café blend with exciting products of the shop. You can enjoy a cup of coffee and search for vintage treasures at the same place.

TODAY , Smør torget is the result of love for old objects and a fascination with modern inf luences. Used furniture stands side by side with modern elements, and local products are created in this inspiring environment. Smør toget, Sjøgata 11, 9008 Tromsø

www.facebook .com/Smor torget

a declaration of vintage love

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appointment booking 79

THE MONEYSPINNER Tromsø was born in the stench of fish waste, cod liver oil vapour and herring oil. The stench is long gone, but you can still smell large amounts of money in the air.

Håkon Robertsen had his first day at sea in 1960. Working as a commercial fisherman is almost 16 times more dangerous than working in the building

he city is based on value harvested directly from the sea. The fishermen have landed their catches. The city has then earned good money on processing the catch and trade. Even through the city has grown, fisheries remains Tromsø’s main industry. However, this stretches well beyond fish and trade. Research and administration also constitute an important part. National giants such as the Norwegian Seafood Council, the Norwegian College of Fishery Science and the Marine 80

Research Institute account for the academic expression of the fisheries industry.

SIGNING ON AS CREW

“Do you have fresh haill (a distinctly Norwegian concept of improving your fishing luck by recently having had sex)? The journalist and photographer both answer evasively. “It does not bode well,” says the skipper, Håkon Robertsen. We signed on as crew of Robertsen’s

fishing boat “Eisterbåen” at 4:53 am on a Monday morning from the small fishing village of Tromvik, about 50 km from Tromsø. We wanted to feel first-hand what until now we had only experienced on TV programmes like Deadliest Catch. “This is not like a reality TV show. You won’t be voted out. If you are on board when we set off, you will remain on board until we return. That will probably be at about 3pm,” says Håkon Robertsen, as the chosen ones from the newspaper board his boat.

and construction industry. Moreover, Troms County is actually the most dangerous in Norway in which to be a commercial fisherman. He would prove to be wrong. Perhaps it was related to the haill.

A STORM IS BREWING

“Eistebåen” is a solid 42-foot seagoing vessel. In the early morning hours, the sea in Tromvika is as flat as a living room floor. It promises to be a wonderful winter’s day. We hear the weather forecaster from the Norwegian Broadcasting Corporation (NRK) –Norway’s answer to the BBC – through the noise from the Volvo Penta engine down in

boat’s bilge. We hear the weather forecaster mumble something about gale over the speaker in the wheelhouse. None of us stalwart chaps down in the cabin really appreciate the significance of this. The smart ones among us are eating, but the journalist and photographer don’t fit into this category. We are heading out to “Nordhålla”, which is around a 90-minute boat trip from Tromvika. It is still pitch black outside. Robertsen navigates through the numerous rocks. It stops snowing and the

moon appears. The sea is calm and there are very few waves. “This is what we call a great winter’s day. No waves to mention and excellent weather for pulling up the halibut longline. It’s hard to imagine it being better than this,” says crew Johnny Jenssen (56).

1500 CITY FISHERMEN

The other crew member on the boat is Hakon’s son, Dan Ørjan. They are among the approximately 1500 full-time and part-time 81

commercial fishermen in the Municipality of Tromsø. Johnny and Dan Ørjan live in the city’s suburbs, which is becoming increasingly common among the fishermen. People such as them make Tromsø one of the country’s largest fishing municipalities. The first-hand value of the catch they land equates to well over NOK 2 billion of fresh money, harvested straight out of the sea. It’s almost impossible to calculate the total value after everyone has earned their share based on the work of the fishermen. While Dan Ørjan is surfing on Facebook, we have a chat with the skipper and ship owner Håkon. Johnny takes over the helm of the 42-foot fishing boat. “I had my first day at sea on 22 June 1960. It was three days after my confirmation graduation and after all I had become a grown man. I have been involved in fishing ever since, although I have taken some time out in between to study, run a shop and a fish processing factory. This is a profession that I really enjoy, says Håkon Robertsen.

CHAT ON THE OUTER COAST

It’s now 5.30am and the fishermen still characterize it as a good winter’s day at sea. This is in spite of the fact that the swell is strong that the bed linen rises in the gusts and even the heaviest of us have trouble keeping our bums firmly on the bench. “It’s not even a fresh breeze yet,” says Håkon Robertsen in an attempt to calm us. We clamber up on deck nevertheless in an attempt to orient ourselves. Jenssen turns on the autopilot and helps to point out the cardinal points, while the moon dances across the sky behind him like angry wasp. “It’s difficult for us to get the decision-makers in the city to fully appreciate our needs. Take for instance a simple thing like planning an operation. One day when the weather was a bit rough, I fell on board and injured my shoulder. I’m struggling a bit with that,” says Håkon Robertsen about his shoulder, which causes him real pain especially when it’s really cold outside. The ship owner is responsible for his employees and their families. When he out of service, they have zero earnings. Fishing is seasonal work. After being on a waiting list for a long time, he was finally scheduled to undergo an operation in August. “I then received notification that plans had changed and the operation had been postponed until December. That’s impossible for me since the cod fishery starts on 2 January. The annual cod fishery provides our livelihood. The rest is mostly employment. I can’t take time off then and leave my employees unemployed. Consequently, I just have to battle on in pain,” says Robertsen. 82

VOMITTING INTO A HEADWIND

Others to battle on were the journalist and photographer. One is kneeling and the other fed the crabs – into a headwind – even though it was only 5.39am. Being a commercial fisherman is the most dangerous job you can have in Norway. It’s almost 16 times more dangerous than working in the building and construction industry. Moreover, Troms County, of which Tromsø is part of, is actually the most dangerous county in Norway in which to be a commercial fisherman. Among the fishermen, those employed on small fishing boat are most at risk of fatal accidents. We were about to get a sad

reminder not only is it dangerous to work at sea, it’s also a dangerous place to fall ill. It turned out that the photographer was far sicker than the usual seasickness that he was already severely affected by. Robertsen has hauled in three of the 10 “skates”, a fishing term for the units of hooks attached to a halibut longline. He assesses the situation as so critical that he decides to turn back. It’s a difficult but correct decision. The photographer was admitted to hospital the same day with gastrointestinal complications. “It’s good it went well with the man. It’s very difficult to get an air ambulance out

I had my first day at sea on 22 June 1960. It was three days after my confirmation graduation and after all I had become a grown man. I have been involved in fishing ever since.

Johnny Jenssen in the wheelhouse of the 42-foot fishing boat from Tromvik – one of Tromsø’s fishing communities. He found his sea legs when he was a young boy. The experienced fisherman is crew on board the Tromvik fishing boat “Eistebåen”.

here. Air ambulance helicopters need to be arranged from Banak (an airport at Lakselv in Finnmark County). And in such dense snow conditions as we experienced here, it would be difficult for them to spot us,” says Håkon Robertsen a couple of days later. NB! This report was first published in the newspaper iTromsø in December 2010. The journalist and photographer made it safely ashore and the photographer was declared fit after a brief stay in hospital. by Peter Reinholdtsen (text and photo) 83

Tromsø’s finest traditional Pub Located centrally next to the international Radisson Blu Hotel in Tromsø, in an ancient Norwegian fishing cottage, “Rorbua Pub” welcomes her guests with warm, local northern Norwegian hospitality. Nationally famous for hosting Norways leading standup comedy show on television for 15 consecutive years the intimate and sociable atmosphere are part of the DNA of Rorbua Pub. Live music from Wednesday to Sunday nights makes Rorbua the spot in Tromsø with the greatest frequency of live concerts - 52 weeks a year! Rorbua Pub is open 7 days a week from 12 noon.

Opening hours: Monday – Tuesday

12:00 – 00:30

Wednesday – Sunday

12:00 – 01:30

Rorbua Pub Samuel Arnesens gate 12, 9008 Tromsø Phone: +47 77 75 90 86 Mail: anne-lise.hansen@radissonblu.com www.facebook.com/RorbuaPub Age limit: as of 20 years

BRYGGERI 13 Welcome to our microbrewery at the city’s most charming café, where you can enjoy homemade food and drinks in a friendly and relaxed atmosphere. Come and taste our local brews, hear about our history and have a bite to eat.

TASTING SESSIONS We can host groups of up to 40 for tasting sessions at our microbrewery in the heart of Tromsø. We will offer you an introduction to the craft of brewing and simple training about how to taste the brew and what the various brews should taste like. Group size: 20-40 people NOK 400 per person Duration: 2-2.5 hours

OPENING HOURS Monday 9-15.30 Tuesday – Thursday 9-21 Friday 9-24 Saturday 18-24 Address: Skippergata 15, 9008 Tromsø Contact details www.bryggeri13.no Phone: +47 91 86 11 51 E-mail: post@bryggeri13.no

WELCOME TO THE NORTHERNMOST MAGIC ICE! Magic Ice is an art gallery and bar made completely of ice. Inside Magic Ice, you can discover the history of Tromsø through ice sculptures. This year’s theme is about life in the Arctic; famous Arctic explorers, expeditions in the Arctic, Arctic wildlife, costal life and Sami culture. Magic Ice is the perfect outing for all ages. Welcome to an enchanting and magical adventure, a sub-zero experience that you’ll never forget! Step inside and be amazed as you come face to face with some of Norway’s most historic and famous explorers while you experience what life is like inside the Arctic Circle. We’ll give you a winter poncho and gloves

FOR MORE INFORMATION: www.magicice.no/listings/tromso-norway www.facebook.com/magicicetromso E-mail: tromso@magicice.no Address: Kaigata 4, 9008 Tromsø Phone: + 47 413 01 050 Open Every Day - All Year! 86

to wear inside and the chance to sip from an ice glass as we serve our signature drink based on Arctic Crowberry at the icebar. Snap away! Who can get the best selfie with one of our tremendous sculptures? We’re located in the heart of Tromsø – Kaigata 4 (on the quayside at Prostneset). We look forward to seeing you at Magic Ice!

Franklin D. Roosevelt pictured in 1900, the year before he visited Tromsø.

Tromsdalen (Troms Valley) with the mountain Tromsd

ROOSEVELT’S DRAMATI A sitting American president has never visited Tromsø, but the ties between the White House and Tromsø abound nevertheless.

Americans with the title of President and Vice President have visited the city at nearly 70˚ North – both before and after serving in the famous house with the Oval Office. Way back in 1901, the first man with links to the White House was in Tromsø – 32 years before becoming president. It was the legendary Franklin D. Roosevelt, the only man to have three periods as president owing to World War II. At age 19, he and his mother, Sara, were on a journey that took them to Norway’s North Cape. They were passengers on the German cruise ship Prinzessin Victoria Louise, which sailed along the Norwegian coast, giving the passengers great experiences of “Norwegian fjords”, mountains, towns and villages. They also experienced daily life in larger towns and smaller settlements. Roosevelt and his 88

mother walked around among the locals without the locals having the slightest inkling that this 19-year-old would one day become one of the most powerful and famous men in the world.

Roosevelt arrived in Tromsø on 1 August 1901. One of the first things he noticed from the deck of Prinzessin Victoria Louise was the mighty mountain east of Tromsøya island – Tromsdalstind. Franklin D. Roosevelt was a sporty young man, and he decided there and then to climb to the top of the mountain. If he had said that he wanted to climb to the top of the mountain, then that would be the case. Accompanied by classmate Theodore Douglas Robinson and two others who were on the same cruise, he made his way across the strait to Tromsdalen and walked up the valley before the ascent to the top of the mountain started. It proved to be a dramatic hiking trip, at least if we are to believe Sara Roosevelt. She claimed that her son came close to losing his

Franklin D. Roosevelt visited Tromsø and the city’s famous mountain, Tromsdalstind, many years before he became the President of the United States. The book Nordens Paradis by former editor Jonny Hansen was published in autumn 2017. With the author’s permission, here is an excerpt from the book (translated to English).

alstind in the background.

C HIKE IN TROMSØ life on Tromsdalstind. He fell so badly that it was a matter of life and death for young Franklin, she claimed. One of those who was told the story of the dramatic mountain climb was the former Norwegian Foreign Affairs Minister, Halvdan Koht. He was on an official visit to the United States in 1937, four years after Franklin D. Roosevelt became president. He was invited to the Roosevelt home in Hyde Park, New York. The topic of discussion was the state of international affairs. Adolf Hitler had long been in power in Germany, and the developments were ominous. Consequently, it was quite natural for the American President and Norwegian Foreign Affairs Minister to discuss the state of international affairs. The present’s mother was also in attendance. When it was mentioned that Halvdan Koht had lived in Tromsø during his childhood, it was inevitable that both mother and son would raise their journey of 1901 to the North Cape and the visit to Tromsø and Tromsdalstind. “Franklin fell down the mountain near the top and could have

killed himself,” said Sara Roosevelt to Halvdan Koht, referring to the diary she had written at the time: Franklin and Teddy and 2 others climbed a high snow-covered hill and got back very late, much exhausted. A dangerous experiment, she wrote. So, the question is where did Roosevelt fall so badly that his life was in danger? It was unlikely to have been the so-called “north face”. Nor the route that goes up from the south. Neither of these are so dangerous that a life could be at risk. But perhaps Roosevelt and his hiking companions had chosen a different route to those that are now marked trails. In that case, he may have fallen and “been in mortal danger”. No matter what: This dramatic mountain hike provides a permanent link between Tromsø and the 32nd President of the United States of America. by Jonny Hansen 89

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BlĂĽst was established in 2002, and has become a natural stop for visitors to the Paris of the North. The owners blow glass at the workshop virtually every day, and it might be possible to see the transformation from molten glass to the most beautiful objects. Be aware, it will be as hot as a sauna. Production includes everything from drinking vessels of all kinds to vases and bowls for the more sculptural and unique items. All glass blowers participate in the formulation and design. Most likely, you will find something to your liking.

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10a

Rober t F. Scott

Helmer Hanssen

Fridtjo f Nanse n

Roald Amun dsen

POLAR HEROES The city of Tromsø has always been a hotspot for polar expeditions. Several of the most famous polar heroes were trained by local trappers. Perhaps the best known polar hero is Roald Amundsen. Amundsen led his famous expedition in the race to reach the South Pole in 1911. His rival was the British explorer Robert Falcon Scott. Amundsen’s right-hand man was Helmer Hanssen from Tromsø. Hanssen was a navigator and a highly skilled musher. Since only a short distance remained, Hanssen made it seem as if his dogs were tired so that Amundsen would become the first man to reach the South Pole.

THE TRAGEDY

Englishman Scott and his companions reached the South Pole a month later. They died on the way back from disap96

pointment, cold, exhaustion and scurvy. Hanssen was full of admiration for Scott’s achievement and thought that in terms of sheer willpower his expedition was far greater than the Norwegian expedition. Scott and his crew pulled the heavy sledges themselves for great distances, while the Norwegians had learned from the Eskimos and used dogs to pull their sleds. Describing Amundsen’s expedition, Hanssen wrote in his memoirs: “Amundsen’s brilliant planning, our comrades’ careful preparatory work and our dogs’ endurance had made the journey into a recreational trip.”

AMUNDSEN DIES

Like the other famous explorers, Amundsen learned seamanship from Tromsø’s many trappers. Most of his polar expeditions started in Tromsø, including what proved to be his final expedition - a rescue mission to save his Italian colleague, Umberto Nobile. Nobile went missing in the far north in 1928. Amundsen went on a rescue mission using a seaplane. The plane

Roald Amundsen (left), Helmer Hanssen, Sverre Hassel and Oscar Wisting. Photo taken by the team’s fifth member Nils Bjaaland.

soil. A landing from a ship was added directly into the train that transported the Italian out of the country.

TRICKERY

The port of Tromsø in June 1928. One of the last known photos of Amundsen and his seaplane "Latham". was last seen as it took off from the port of Tromsø in June 1928. No one has been able to find the wreck of Amundsen’s seaplane, but Nobile was found in good shape. When he arrived in Norway, the grief of losing Amundsen was felt so badly that Nobile did not step onto Norwegian

The great explorer and Nobel Peace Prize winner Fritdjof Nansen also had Tromsø as a starting point. Nansen financed an expedition for Amundsen to conduct research in the Arctic. Amundsen had other plans, and just after the ship had left the dock he told the crew that the destination was the South Pole. Nansen never forgave Amundsen for this, although the South Pole expedition was a success. Ironically, Scott is the reason we can state with certainty that Amundsen’s expedition was the first to reach the South Pole. The finding of Scott’s tent, and thereby Scott’s diary and photographs of Amundsen’s tent, provides the proof that Amundsen had been to the South Pole.

by T hor A . Angelsen 97

y ne ur Jo s O

Explorations of the first North Norwegian

Tromsø The Wite Sea

Wessex

OTHERE’S JOURNEY In the late 9th century, a man named Ohthere (or Ottar in Norwegian) visited King Alfred the Great of Wessex. He told the king that he lived “north-most of all Norwegians”.

perspective – ranging from ancient Assyria to the author ’s own time. The work began with a brief geographical overview. However, this overview only covered the part of the world that Orosius had personal knowledge of; namely Europe south of the Alps.

Othere’s descriptions of the life in the northernmost part of the Viking ’s world, about different ethnic groups and travel routes, the aristocracy and trading places, make his account an invaluable contemporary source. Ohthere’s account is one of our most important and most frequently cited sources from the Viking Age. Ohthere’s account is a contemporary account of the latter part of the 9th century AD. It has survived as an addition to an anonymous translation into an Anglo-Saxon, or Old English, version of a Latin historical book written early in the 5th century by Paulus Orosius called Historiarum Adversum Paganos Libri VII or Seven Books of History Against the Pagans. His work was a historical overview – from a Christian

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100

In conjunction with its translation into Old English, and possibly also as part of King Alfred’s own programme of education, the original work was supplemented by a description of Europe north of the Alps. It is in this context that we find Ohthere’s account. It is believed that the account was recorded in writing by scholars at King Alfred’s court in connection with a journey Ohthere made at some stage during Alfred’s reign, in the period between 871 and 891 AD.

LENGTHY VOYAGE

En route to England, Ohthere visited two of Scandinavia’s

This article is written by Inger Storli. She is the head of the Department of Cultural Sciences at the Tromsø University museum. Storli has a long list of publications on topics including the political conditions in Northern Norway from the 3rd to 10th century AD.

most important marketplaces, Skiringssal and Hedeby. Skiringssal was located in what is now the Norwegian county of Vestfold, while Hedeby was located in Schleswig in what is now Germany, just south of the border with Denmark. Details in the account can indicate that this was not the first time Ohthere completed a journey of this distance. He had also undertaken a lengthy voyage north and east, all the way to the White Sea, to explore lands unknown and also due to the walruses, “because these are very fine bone in their tusks – they took some such tusks to the king – and their skin is very suitable for ship’s ropes”. Consequently, we can see for ourselves that the journey to the White Sea was undertaken before the journey to England precisely to obtain tusks that he could sell at markets, and which he also presented to King Alfred.

VIKING IN THE TRUE SENSE

No explanation is given in the text about Ohthere’s

motives for travelling to England or for visiting King Alfred. The trading places were clearly among his intended destinations, but we should not rule out the Original page from Othere’s possibility that he also plun- journey in the "Seven Books of dered when the opportunity History Against the Pagans". arose. Admittedly his account contains no information about the Viking raids but, among the Vikings, dealings usually went hand in hand with plundering and robbery. In the Viking ’s world, travels were of great importance for a man’s good reputation and were crucial for his political and social position. The travels were quite simply part of their refinement and created clever and wise men. In that sense, Ohthere was a Viking in the true sense of the word. 101

GIANTS OF THE SEA

The sea outside Tromsø offers several locations where there is a high probability of observing these large and majestic marine mammals. Some of the best locations for whale observations are Sommarøy (see page 82), located west of Tromsø City, and of the coast of the large island Senja (see page 84), southwest of Tromsø. Both these locations offer the opportunity to join guided tours with experienced crews. The humpback whale and killer whale are the most common species found in shallow water close to the coast. There are also populations of smaller whales, several species of seal and a rich bird life.

THE HUMPBACK WHALE

The humpback whale, which reaches a length of between 15 and 18 metres, can weigh up to 50 tonnes. The female is a little bigger than the male. Humpback whales are easily distinguished from other whales by their 5 m long flippers and the hump on their backs. The bumps found on the head are called tubercles. Each tubercle contains a single hair follicle, similar to a cat’s whisker. The humpback whale varies in colour from grey to black with white markings on their underside. The varying patterns on the tail flukes are sufficient to identify individuals. Humpbacks sing some of the most complex animal songs ever recorded. The sounds consist of a complex series of whistles and deep calls sung in a specific order, which may last for several minutes or sometimes as long as half an hour. Their songs are not inborn – they learn them from each other. The whales feed on krill (small shrimp-like animals) and small fish and eat up to 1.5 tonnes of food a day. Their food is trapped to be swallowed by baleen plates, not teeth.

THE KILLER WHALE

The killer whale (Orcinus orca), also referred to as the orca, is a toothed whale of the dolphin family. These whales are found in all the world’s oceans. A typical killer whale has a black back, white chest and sides, and a white patch above and behind the eye. Killer whales typically range from 5 to 8 metres in length and can weigh up to six tonnes. Some feed exclusively on fish, while others hunt marine mammals such as sea lions, seals and walruses. Sometimes a group of killer whales might even attack other whales. Orcas are apex predators, meaning that they lack any natural predators.

FAMILY GROUPS

Orcas (killer whales) live in family groups called pods, each containing up to 40 individual killer whales. A pod may contain up to four generations of orcas. Interestingly, most males never leave their mothers. The average life span of a killer whale in the wild is 50 to 80 years. The lifespan of killer whales in captivity is typically significantly shorter, usually less than 25 years. However, a few have reached their 40s. Killer whales have their own culture, since their hunting techniques and vocalisations are passed down generations. Each group of whales has a unique dialect of calls. In general, their language. by John A . Angelsen SEASON: 15 OCTOBER - 15 FEBRUARY CAPACITY: MINIMUM 2 PAX, MAXIMUM 40 PAX 102

RØST KOMMUNIKASJON

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18 MAY -31 AUG 10:00-19:00 1 SEP-23 DEC

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24 DEC

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TRAINING AND FEEDING OF THE SEALS EVERY DAY 12.30 & 15.30

visit us online polaria.no 103

Photo: Even Tryggstrand

NATURE’S LIGHT SHOW It appears like a glowing light, constantly moving and changing its form, strength and colour. The sun, the moon and the stars belong to the everlasting and predictable in the universe. On the other hand, the majestic Northern Lights – or Aurora Borealis – are illusive, changing and unpredictable. The cosmos demonstrates electric and magnetic fields, showing unique movement and colours. The Northern Lights is not something you may experience on the TV. To get the full experience, you need to escape the bright city light, so-called “light pollution”, and head somewhere dark. To improve the chance of Northern Lights sightings, you also need to avoid the coastline in order to find dry weather conditions. Camp Tamok, a 75-minute inland drive from Tromsø, provides the optimal conditions, as you can see on the photo beside.

WHAT IS IT?

It is a phenomenon that occurs when the solar winds originating from the sun are more powerful than usual, sending charged particles towards the earth. The particles are electrons and protons, glowing when colliding with the earth’s atmosphere. The Northern Lights occur at a height of more than 100 km above the ground, and may be observed in the night sky in a belt around the Magnetic North Pole. It is often in a wave movement, sometimes filling the sky with blue, green, red and orange light. Aurora Polaris (polar light) is called Aurora Borealis in the northern hemisphere and Aurora Australis in the southern hemisphere.

SEASON FOR SIGHTINGS

The Northern Lights is present year-round, but may only be observed when it is dark. During summer in the far north, the sun never sets and it is light around the clock. The mystical Northern Lights are visible again from September and on many clear evenings right up to the middle of April. From mid-April, the amount of darkness each day reduces sharply and from May 21 you can see the Midnight Sun in Tromsø. The contrasts are enormous in the Arctic.

by John A. Angelsen 104

VISIT

OTHER ANIMALS

RED DEER Booking polarpark.no +47 77186630

MOOSE

SEASON: 1 December - 31 March

MUSKOX DEPARTURES: Daily departures on coaches from TromsÃ¸ and Narvik. 105

Regional Map

Vollan Gjestestue For locally produced and developed food with homemade cakes and bread, pay a visit to Vollan Gjestestue. Malangen Resort For modern accommodation and a high quality restaurant right by the fjord, stay for a night or maybe a week at Malangen Resort. 106

Aurora Spirit Visit the world's northernmost distillery Aurora Spirit, overlooking the spectacular Lyngen Alps, and join a guided distillery tour and other exciting activities. Lyngsfjord Adventure, Camp Tamok For Northern Lights, dog sledding, reindeer sledding or snowmobile safaris, go on an exciting excursion to Camp Tamok with Lyngsfjord Adventure.

Mountain Village At the heart of Troms county you will find Målselv Mountain Village, surrounded by beautiful white mountains. The inland climate here is perfect for Northern Lights, skiing and snow activities. Elements Arctic Camp The camp is located by the seashore on the island of Rebbenesøya north of Tromsø. There is no road access or electricity.

Two-day arcTic camp w i T h winTer kayaking

E x p E r i E n c E a u n i q u E p r i v at E a n d p E r s o n a l i s E d t r i p ! Our trips are all inclusive. You will have the camp for yourself, stay in a warm and cosy yurt, paddle in magnificent scenery, enjoy local food and have a close-up experience with the Arctic wildlife and coastal life. Our camp is located by the seashore on the Island Rebbenesøya, north of Tromsø, and has no road access or electricity. This is the place to experience calmness, silence, changeable weather and the colours and uniqueness of the various seasons. Paddling in the dark is a special experience and, if we are lucky, the Northern Lights will suddenly start dancing over your head. No previous paddling experience is required, but you must be in reasonable physical shape. We will pick you up in downtown Tromsø or the surrounding area. We also offer three-day trips and customised trips. t w o - d ay t r i p : Monday, Wednesday or Friday, depart 13.00 (1 p.m.) and return following day at 18.00 (6 p.m.) Group size: maximum 4 (for larger groups, please contact us) Prices per yurt for a two-day trip: 1-2 people: NOK 11.270 3 people: NOK 15.008 4 people: NOK 18.745 107

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THE AURORA DESTINATION OF TROMSØ

The AurorA DesTinATion of Tromsø Malangen Resort is a destination in itself - a modern hotel with a high-end restaurant, the wilderness of Camp Nikka, waterfront cabins intimate Naust bar. Malangen Resortcentre is a destination in itself. A modern hoteland withthe a high-end restaurant,

the wilderness centre of Camp Nikka, seaside cabins and the intimate Naust bar. BUT MOST IMPORTANT OF ALL – A WHOLE MENU OF ACTIVITIES. EVERYTHING IS WITHIN WALKING DISTANCE OF THE RESORT. BuT mosT imporTAnTA whole menu of AcTiviTies.

everyThing in wAlking DisTAnce of The resorT.

THE NORTHERN LIGHTS AT MALANGEN Malangen ResortlighTs is located one of the The norThern AT in mAlAngen most visited Northern Light hotspots in visitMalangen Resort is located in one of the most the TromsøLight area, and has developed theand ed Northern hotspots in the Tromsø area, Northern Lights Watch. Lights Watch. has developed the Northern “The Watch” enhances opportunity “The Watch” enhances your your opportunity of seeingof the seeing the guide lights. willmorning be up until lights – your willYour be upguide until early every early morning every day ready to wake you day ready to wake you up with our Aurora Alarm to up with make sureour thatAurora a singleAlarm nightly to dance on the sky will ensure thatyour a single not slip pass eyes. nightly dance in the sky will not slip past your eyes.

ACTIVITIES DAILY FROM THE RESORT The nights are dedicated to finding the AcTiviTies DAily from The resorT Northern Lights, but that doesn’t mean you The nights are dedicated for finding the Lights, but shouldn’t enjoy as daylight well! that doesn’t meanthe youdaylight shouldn’thours enjoy the Drive own team of huskies through hours your as well! the peaceful feel the thrillthe ofpeaceful Drive your ownforest team oforhuskies through snowmobiling some of the most amazing forest or feel the in thrill of snowmobiling in some of the scenery you could ever a most amazing sceneries youimagine. could ever Relax imagine.inRelax private Jacuzzi by at the witha aview view of in a private Jacuzzi theseaside, seaside, with of the the Malangen Malangen fjord. fjord.

www.malangen.com / +47 77 65 58 00 / booking@malangenresort.com www.malangen.com / +47 77 65 58 00 / booking@malangenresort.com

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DAY

ADVENTURES You can now visit spectacular Malangen Resort on a memorable day adventure from TromsĂ¸. Enjoy a scenic round-trip to this North Norwegian gem set on the shores of a beautiful fjord, surrounded by snow-covered mountains.

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DOG SLEDDING Keen to try dog sledding? Lead a team of eager huskies through the snowcovered Arctic landscape while admiring the breathtaking scenery. Did you know

that Malangen Resort is one of few dog sledding providers in Northern Norway where the huskies can wander freely in the dog yard instead of being chained up?

www.malangen.com / +47 77 65 58 00 / booking@malangenresort.com 111

DAY

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SAMI CULTURE Join us on a journey through Sami culture. Hear fascinating stories about the way of life of the indigenous Sami people, enter a traditional Sami herdsmenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s tent, taste authentic Sami food and meet and feed the reindeer that graze near Malangen Resort.

www.malangen.com / +47 77 65 58 00 / booking@malangenresort.com 113

Norwegian fjords, Swedish ice hotel and Finnish Lapland

in Arctic Trucks

Our four-day expedition in Arctic Trucks - specially rebuilt vechicles for extreme conditions - will take you from Tromso (Norway) through Sweden and Finland before heading back to Norway.

Challenge yourself in the Arctic wilderness During the expedtion, you will sleep in an gamme - a modern igloo-style tent - go dog sledding in Sweden and snowmobiling in Finland. To top it all: we will cross the Lyngen fjord in Norway in a RIB boat and conclude our tour with a visit and over-

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night stay at Aurora Spirit, the world's northernmost distillery. Bookings are open for expeditions in the winter 2018-19. Welcome on an experience that will exceed your wildest imaginations!

CONTACT DETAILS:

post@arcticcircleexpedition.com +47 777 15588

www.arcticcircleexpedition.com

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It’s easy to get to Målselv Mountain Village.

> WE PROVIDE DAILY BUSS FROM TROMSO AND NARVIK FROM DECEMBER TO MARCH.

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WELCOME TO THE MOUNTAINS! In the heart of Troms you will find MÃ¥lselv Mountain Village, surrounded by beautiful white mountains and powerful nature. The inland climate here is perfect for northern lights and snow activities. Here you can experience unforgettable Northern Lights dancing in the sky at night combined with skiing in good trails for cross country and downhill skiing. We provide ski lessons also for beginners. Enjoy a magical day in the company of our friendly huskies, try snowmobile safari, ice fishing or meet

the Sami people and their reindeers. All in a breathtaking landscape. Try the unique experience of sleeping under the stars, inside in the Aurora tent, where the roof is of glass. Or choose modern apartments or cabins, some of them with sauna and outdoor jacuzzi. We will do everything to make Your stay fantastic. Welcome!

ACTIVITIES

MONDAY

TUESDAY

WEDNESDAY

THURSDAY

FRIDAY

SATURDAY

SUNDAY

CROSS-COUNTRY SKIING SKI LESSONS CROSS-COUNTRY DOWNHILL SKIING SKI LESSONS DOWNHILL DOG SLEDDING NORTHERN LIGHTS EXPERIENCE SAMI EXPERIENCE SNOWSHOEING WITH GUIDE MOOSE SAFARI KICKSLED RENTAL SLEDGE RENTAL SNOWSHOES RENTAL

Morning/aftern. Morning/aftern. Aftern./evening Evening Morning/aftern. Morning Morning Morning/aftern. Morning/aftern. Morning/aftern.

Morning/aftern. Morning/aftern. 12.00-20.00 12.00-20.00 Aftern./evening Evening Morning/aftern. Morning Morning Morning/aftern. Morning/aftern. Morning/aftern.

Morning/aftern. Morning/aftern. 12.00-20.00 12.00-20.00 Afternoon Evening Morning/aftern. Morning Morning Morning Morning/aftern. Morning/aftern.

Morning/aftern. Morning/aftern. 10.30-18.30 10.30-18.30 Morning/aftern. Morning/aftern.

Morning/aftern. Morning/aftern. 10.30-16.00 10.30-16.00 Morning/aftern. Morning/aftern. Morning/aftern.

All activities depend on weather conditions.

BUY ONLINE AT www.mountainvillage.no | booking@mountainvillage.no | +47 9414 0000

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MAGNAR GULLIKSTAD JOHNSEN

Age: 37 Civil status: Married Lives in: Detached house Favourite café/bar: Bardus Bar and Verdensteateret Bar og Kafé Tips for tourists: Northern Lights exhibition at Tromsø Museum Typical Sunday activity: Relaxing on a sofa with coffee and a newspaper

The People of Tromsø

THE NORHERN LIGHTS RESEARCHER The solar activity that causes the Northern Lights has an 11-year cycle. We are now entering a solar minimum, the quiet phase. “We have heard that cruise lines have cancelled cruises because they thought the Northern Lights had finished for this cycle,” says Johnsen, who is a researcher at the Tromsø Geophysical Observatory at UiT The Arctic University of Norway. Solar minimum means there are fewer solar storms or, to use more technical terms, fewer solar flares or coronal mass ejections. “The Northern Lights can be seen in Southern Norway when there is major solar flare activity, but in Tromsø every day no matter where in the cycle the sun is. The Northern Lights in Tromsø are caused the day to day activity on the sun. This means although there will be less Northern Lights in the south, that will not be the case in Tromsø,” he says.

THE NORTHERN LIGHTS OBSERVATORY

The Geophysical Observatory is continuing the legacy of the former Northern Lights Observatory, which has a long history. “The observatory was founded in 1928 using money from the Rockefeller Foundation. We hold continuous data from that time up to the present day. One of our most important tasks is collecting observations and maintaining

Tromsø is a centre of Northern Lights research. 118

continuity with this,” says Johnsen. The observatory is located on top of the island of Tromsøya within walking distance of downtown Tromsø. The original buildings and measuring instruments are located here. “Considering how close this is to light pollution from the city, there are good conditions for observing the Northern Lights up there.” Johnsen’s department only has eight employees, but they do an important job. “We monitor and forecast space weather. The electromagnetic radiation from space can affect compasses. The oil industry uses compasses when drilling for oil. The further north the excavation work is taking place, the more vulnerable the compasses are to interference from the sun. We help them to adjust for such interference.”

THE CARRINGTON EVENT

The forces that create the Northern Lights can be dangerous. “Strong solar flares create beautiful Northern Lights, but they can also cause damage to, for instance, the power grid,” he says, adding: “In 1989 Quebec was hit by a major power failure when a transformer station was overloaded by radiation from space. As a result, six million people were without power.” The largest solar storm we know of occurred in 1859 and is known as the Carrington Event. It was so powerful that apparently telegraph lines started to produce sparks. “We have not experienced anything like it since then, but we would be much more vulnerable in today’s society. We are unsure exactly what could happen, but it has the potential to hit satellites and create long power outages,” says Johnsen.

NORTHERN LIGHTS RESEARCH

Johnsen is originally from Røros, an historic mining town in Trøndelag that is inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List. Røros is so far south that Northern Lights activity is rare there although it does occur. “My first memory of the Northern Lights was at home in Røros. My parents woke my brother and I up at night so we could see the Northern Lights.” Although Johnsen’s main interest is the underlying physics, he is also fascinated by the visible Northern Lights. “The dynamics and colours are unlike any other natural phenomenon and every aurora is unique, which means you never get tired of it.” Johnsen lives in Tromsø with his wife, they are expecting their first child and he has no immediate plans to move back to Røros. “Tromsø is a centre of Northern Lights research. If there’s an alternative, it may be Fairbanks in Alaska. It is located at the same geomagnetic latitude as Tromsø and consequently has just as much Northern Lights activity. But Fairbanks does not have the Gulf Stream so the winters there are much colder than here,” he says. Johnsen is fond of Tromsø and he takes advantage of the nature areas as well as the cultural offerings. But one place stands out as his favourite in town. “The observatory. It’s full of history. There are instruments there from the early 1920s. Some of these were in use right up to the digitalization in the late 1980s,” says Johnsen.

by Ron Røstad

Welcome to Vollan Gjestestue! Just a one-hour drive from TromsĂ¸. Close to nature and the Lyngen Alps.

We have been serving traditional homemade food here since 4 July 1948. We offer comfortable and affordable accommodation. 32 hotel rooms/63 beds 8 studio apartments/11 beds for self-catering All rooms feature private bathroom, free Wi-Fi and TV. Guests enjoy free parking and free access to the gym. Book online for our best room rates! For exciting activities, please visit our website.

Monday - Friday Saturday Sunday

Cafe

Reception/Bar

Breakfast

07.00 - 21.30 09.00 - 21.30 10.00 - 21.30

06.30 07.00 07.00

06.30 - 10.00 07.00 - 11.00 07.00 - 11.00

23.00 01.00 23.00

Vollan Gjestestue - Torgveien 2, N - 9040 Nordkjosbotn - +47 777 22 300 www.vollangjestestue.no - post@vollangjestestue.no - facebook.com/VollanGjestestue

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A visit to Scotland inspired the founding of the world’s northernmost distillery, situated at an old NATO base in Lyngen in Troms County in Northern Norway.

THE WORLD’S NORTHERNM T he story behind the Lyngen distillery is interesting in itself. Hans-Olav Eriksen was a general practitioner who started with adventure tourism – Lyngsfjord Adventure – in 2008. It soon became apparent that the tourism industry needed a quality standard, and Eriksen travelled to Scotland in 2010 to investigate their Quality Assurance scheme. The trip proved to be an eye opener.

RESEMBLES SCOTLAND

Eriksen observed that the Scottish fauna, landscape and nature had a 120

striking similarity to where he grew up by the Lyngenfjord near Tromsø. The nature was the raw material for the Scots’ most important product: whiskey. Hence, it was entirely transferable to the conditions in the cold north. Eriksen toyed with the idea of creating an Arctic whiskey, but others regarded this idea as a joke. ”However, the first batch of gin was finished in September 2016 and the whisky will be ready for storage in the middle of November, Tor Petter Christensen says. He is the CEO at

the newly constructed distillery Aurora Spirits at Årøybukt in Lyngen in northern Norway. The distillery has its name from the aurora borealis, more commonly known as the northern lights.

SWEETER INGREDIENTS

The world’s northernmost distillery is built on a former NATO coastal fort from the Cold War and stores its casks in old tunnels once used for military purposes. Christensen thinks the combination of cold climate and arctic ingredients will produce a unique

AURORA BOREALIS IN NORSE MYTHOLOGY ■ ■ During the cold and dark winter months, the Aurora Borealis- northern lights- might be seen waving across the sky in the polar night. ■ ■ The ancestors of the Norwegians, the Vikings of the north, called the Northern Lights Bivrost.

OST DISTILLERY Norwegian line of spirits. “Ingredients are sweeter in northern Norway because of the midnight sun. Arctic berries, grains and herbs will shape our products together with our water source: Meltwater from the surrounding glaciers.,” says Christensen.

IDEA FROM SCOTLAND

Scottish distilleries directly inspired the creation of the distillery.. “We saw how distilleries shape the identity of local Scottish communities and attract tourism, and we wondered why we

weren’t doing the same,” Christensen admits. He is now using Auroras visitor centre to actively promote the identity, culture and heritage of the Arctic. “The people of northern Norway are extremely social, outgoing and fun, but we still have a way to go in telling that story to the world. That’s changing fast, and I’m very optimistic about the future,” the CEO concludes.

■ ■ They regarded it as a magical path from our world to Asgard, the realms of the gods in norse mythology.  ■ ■ At the end of this shimmering northern light bridge resided the gatekeeper Heimdall. ■ ■ By lighting red fire in Bivrost he protected Thor, Odin, Frey and the other gods from trolls and other unwanted creatures.  ■ ■ But Bivrost was something more. It was used as a bridge to the human world, where the gods went from Asgard down to Midgard where the Vikings lived.

by Thor A. Angelsen, David Gonzales (photo) Petter Formo (photo) 121

LYNGEN ALPS The wide chain of peaks starts out on the tip of the Lyngen Peninsula, between the two big fjords, the Ullsfjord and the Lyngen Fjord. The peninsula between the fjords is 15-20 km wide, and in both fjords mountains higher than 1000 m drop vertically down in the blue water.

100 KM LONG

The mountain chain continues on the peninsula, all the way to the Swedish border. This makes the Lyngen Alps more than 100 km long, depending on definition. Between the peaks, there are also more gentle hills and plateaus. Here you find 122

The Lyngen Alps are famous for off-piste skiing. You can literally ski from the summits down to the sea.

beautiful valleys, forests, cascading rivers, and countless lakes. Still the area is dominated by the wild peaks, several glaciers and deep ravines. The highest mountain, Jiehkkevarri, is 1833 m above sea level. And â&#x20AC;&#x153;above sea levelâ&#x20AC;? in the Lyngen Alps area means that the sea it self is the foot of the mountain.

EXTRAORDINARY WILDLIFE

The first signs of settlement are from the Stone Age, but the first churches in the area came as late as the 18th century. The population in the area today is still low and scattered. The largest settlement, Lyngseidet, has a population of approximately 800.

The wildlife is extraordinary, with whales, seals, white-tailed eagles and a wide variety of other bird species, as well as all kinds of Arctic mammals on land. You can catch cod, coalfish, wolf fish and haddock in the fjord. In the mountain lakes you can catch trout and Arctic char.

OFF-PISTE

The Lyngen Alps are famous for off-piste skiing. You can literally ski from the summits down to the sea. Several companies provide return transfers by boat to the most fabulous locations.

by John A . Angelsen

Guided tour of distillery Under the Lyngen Alps, Aurora Spirit has established the most modern distillery in the world. This is also the world’s northernmost distillery.

The Lyngen Alps, the fjords and the Arctic wilderness gives en excellent frame for a guided whiskey tour. At our spectacular visitor centre Bivrost Lounge you can learn about making alcohol under the Northern Lights.

DISTILLERY GUIDED TOUR OF AURORA SPIRIT You will be guided through the process of manufacturing various types of spirits such as vodka, aquavit, gin and whisky in the worlds northernmost distillery. Season: 10th December- 31st March Price per person: NOK 1 495 Duration: 7 h 15 min including tranfers and a meal Pick-up in Tromsø: Every day at 8.45 at Scandic Ishavshotel. Return to Tromsø 16.00. Included: Transfer, a plate of local produce at Bivrost Lounge, distillery tour, suovenir glass

MORE INFORMATION AND BOOKING: www.lyngen.com I Phone- all services: +47 919 04260 FOR UPDATES PLEASE SEE FACEBOOK: Aurora Spirit Norway 123

RIB fjoRd touR On this fjord tour by rigid inflatable boat (RIB), you will experience an exhilarating mode of transport while enjoying the beautiful sights of the wonderful Lyngenfjord. Round off this adventure with lunch and a guided tour at Aurora Spirit, the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s northernmost distillery.

Our experienced captain will guide you safely to a secluded bay where vertical mountains reach for the sky straight out of the sea. In this beautiful spot, you will experience the unique polar light that appears during daytime in the Arctic. Our guide will share fascinating local stories and, if you are lucky, you may spot the majestic whitetailed sea eagle in its natural habitat. This majestic adventure takes place in complete wilderness far away from civilisation. Pick-up by bus in the city centre of Tromso, outside the Scandic Ishavshotel by the harbour. Transfer time is 90-minutes to Aurora Spirit: a fantastic journey through the Lyngen Alps.

MORE INFORMATION AND BOOKING: www.lyngen.com I www.auroraspirit.com I Phone- all services: +47 900 96 170 124

Season: Availability:

December 1 - March 31 Daily, from 2 to 12 guests

Departure:

08:45 outside The Scandic Ishavshotel by the harbour, Tromso town centre. Return: 15:45

Duration:

7 hours including transfers

Price:

NOK 2 195 per person (children 4 - 15 years: 50% discount) Booking by request. FOR UPDATES PLEASE SEE FACEBOOK: Lyngen I Aurora Spirit 125

PHOTO: JAN OLIVER KOCH

SEASON:

November- February*

PRICES FROM: NOK 1,890 p.p. (2,390 from TromsĂ¸) Starts: 10:45 from Lyngseidet Duration: 4-7 hours Route: Snow track Age limit: 14** Level: Beginner-intermediate Requirements: Winter boots, warm clothes

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*Season and weather dependant ** Each child under 18 must be accompanied by an adult

Lyngen is home to many easily accessible frozen waterfalls that allow for top-roping. Accompanied by our certified guides, virtually anyone can try ice climbing. Hike with us through winter woodlands, warm yourself in the lavvu and try ice climbing on a frozen waterfall. Our experienced guides will ensure that you have a safe, yet thrilling experience on the ice. We keep our groups small (max 4 guests per guide) to ensure we can provide personal service and attention. It’s advisable to book well in advance. REQUIREMENTS • Guests are expected to be in normal physical shape. This activity includes a 1.3 km hike on snow in each direction. Although ice climbing is a sport where technique beats brute force, it can get pretty tiring. • Warm winter clothing, positive attitude (we will stay out in the cold for an extended period) • Maximum 4 guests/minimum 2 guests INCLUDED • Personal experience (max 4 guests per guide) • Return transfers from Tromsø or Lyngseidet • All necessary climbing equipment • Certified ice climbing guide • Hot drinks and food

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ARCTIC TRUCK DRIVING Camp Tamok is the starting point for a breathtaking adventure in the driverâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s seat of an Arctic Truck.

DESTINATION Camp Tamok DURATION 4.5 hours +

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Arctic Truck Driving C

amp Tamok is the starting point for a breathtaking adventure in the driver's seat of an Arctic Truck. You will drive on-road and off-road, and the latter can be somewhat challenging.

the deep snow. This widens the tyre surface and increases the vehicle's ability to float on the snow. Your Arctic Truck experience will involve both uphill and downhill driving in challenging terrain.

You will be surprised how the Arctic Truck navigates through the snow. Before setting off, you will receive thorough instructions of how to operate the vehicle. You will drive with one or two passengers in addition to the guide. You will be able to switch places during the trip, so everyone gets the opportunity to drive.

After an exciting driving session, we will return to Camp Tamok and you will be served a hot meal in our heated lavvu (Sami herdsmen's tent). Note: If you can drive a normal car, you can drive an Arctic Truck. All you need is a regular driving licence and a sense of adventure.

You will drive about 20 km on the road before heading off-road. As your guide will explain, you must deflate the tyre pressure before driving into

Pick-up by bus or minibus in downtown Tromso, outside the Scandic Ishavshotel by the quayside. The transfer time is 75 min each way to Camp Tamok, the start and end point for your excursion.

Feeling more adventurous? Why not try Arctic Circle Expedition: Fours days through three countries and the Arctic wilderness with Arctic trucks. More information: www.arcticcircleexpedition.com. SEASON:...........................................December 1 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; March 31 DEPARTURE DAYTIME:................. 09:00 outside the Ishavshotel. (Return: 16:00) DEPARTURE EVENING:................17:00 outside the Ishavshotel, (Return: 24:00) PRICE:................................................NOK 2,195 (children 7-15 years: 50% discount)

DESTINATION Camp Tamok DURATION 4.5 hours + transport, 7h total

BOOKING:........................................www.lyngsfjord.com +47 77 71 55 88 (09:00 - 17:00) 131

To some the term Arctic light is synonymous with the Northern Lights. But to award-winning nature photographer and film maker Ole Salomonsen, it is a collective term for all the magical light you can experience in the Arctic – or north of the Arctic Circle – in winter. Arctic photographer Ole Salomonsen’s long commitment to photography in the Arctic has given him a unique insight into photography in these conditions, not to mention knowledge of the region and this part of the world. In time his work has become a major branded article for Tromsø and the region. For many years Norway’s national tourism authority, Visit Norway, has used Salomonsen’s films to showcase the most outstanding the region has to offer to potential tourists and visitors. In this article, Salomonsen shares advice that will help you to take better photos in the Arctic Light.

ARCTIC LIGHT PHOTOGRAP

CAPTURING TWO SEASONS

Trying to put all this beautiful light into words is difficult. It’s something you simply have to experience. It begins with the onset of autumn in September signalling the arrival of the Northern Lights and darkness and ends with the return of daylight and the Midnight Sun in April. Capturing photos of the Northern Lights together with the colours of a sunset is simply amazing, and for many this is the ultimate photo (check out the cover photo). Perhaps this is because capturing two seasons in the same photo is so exotic to achieve.

GOLDEN HOUR

During the winter, the sun disappears for a two-month period (in Tromso from 27 November to 21 January). This period is widely known as the Polar Night, but this name is somewhat misleading because it’s never completely dark during the day although the sun is always below the horizon. In fact, it is before, during and after the Polar Night that the most beautiful Arctic winter light appears in all its glory. During this period, you can experience that white mountains turning pink from the low sun combined with a purple, pink or bright red sky. The so-called “golden hour” is a popular time for photographers as it provides the most magical, best light. At these northern latitudes, this “golden hour” extends for many hours and often a whole day. In addition, this Arctic light is more beautiful than any other light or sunset, especially as a backdrop to the Arctic nature, leaping 132

Ole Salomonsen recently completed a two-week expedition around Svalbard and into the pack ice whales, mountains and dead calm fjords.

THE RIGHT LIGHT

In other words, this long period of low sun and the absence of sunlight provide the basis for wonderful Arctic light by day, complemented by the dancing Northern Lights by night. It is simply amazing for

photographers and is something that people can quickly become addicted to. Take me for instance. The very best foundation for great photos is the right light. This applies no matter what type of photography you are doing. If you visit our region, you will be in a unique position to

hunting photos of polar bears and Arctic nature. experience and photograph possibly the world’s most beautiful light.

MILD CLIMATE

As well as being wonderful, the Arctic Light in the north of Norway is also easily accessible. Northern Norway and Tromsø have an extremely well developed infra-

Photo: Ole Salomonsen structure with an international airport just a short drive from all amenities, many hotels and many activities and guides. Perhaps most important of all, despite being situated so far north Tromsø has a relatively mild climate. This mild climate may be attributed to the Gulf Stream that warms the entire

coast year-round. Another advantage of Tromsø as a base for hunting the Arctic Light is the convenient location and proximity to both the coastal and inland climates. If the weather is poor and cloud is forecast on the coast, you are only 1-2 hours away from the colder inland climate which often leads to better weather. 133

THE BASICS Shooting photos in a cold environment can be demanding, but you lay a better foundation if you come well prepared.

NORTHERN LIGHTS PHOTOGRAPHY – WHEN AND WHERE?

Some people opt to hire a guide to show them around, while others prefer to explore and travel around on their own by car. Many good guides are available who will do their utmost to ensure you get great photos. However, for many it’s best to explore independently with the freedom that provides. In that case, the first thing to do is to learn a bit about the region. Surf the internet, look at other people’s photos and note down nice locations and how to get there. Basically landscape photography in winter is no different to in summer. It’s all about capturing the right light and the moment, which can require waiting, time and patience. Consequently, having the right clothing is particularly important in winter. You need warm, windproof and waterproof clothes, while good footwear is a must. Even though Tromsø’s climate is relatively mild, you will feel it in your legs if you have to stand outside for hours on end waiting for the Northern Lights to appear. A warm jacket and hat are of little help if you if your legs are freezing. This will spoil your evening and in many cases you will need to head back.

Location, location, location. This basic rule of photography remains just as relevant as ever. The coast of Troms County offers everything you could wish for a wonderful landscape photo: fjords, mountains, valley, frozen lakes and snow-covered trees. The possibilities are only limited by your own imagination. Spend time before you come to find good locations and mark them on your map. You can photograph the Northern Lights here from September to March. Each of the periods has their own charm. Some people prefer full winter and snow, while others prefer the autumn darkness and silhouettes. Sometimes the Northern Lights are stronger round the autumn and spring equinoxes, but the entire season provides good opportunities to take good photos of the Northern Lights. It’s a good idea to plan by using websites with long-range Northern Lights forecasts. This is achieved by monitoring so-called coronal holes on the surface of the sun. Such holes cause strong Northern Lights and often follow the sun’s 27-day rotation. Don’t be afraid to use the moon when planning to photograph the Northern Lights. Some moonlight helps to illuminate the foreground, which is often be too dark. 134

THE TECHNICAL STUFF Luckily, you don’t need the best equipment in the world to photograph the Northern Lights or winter light. Good equipment certainly helps, but it’s not essential. Most modern cameras are equipped for taking good photos in winter conditions. The most important feature is the aperture, which determines how much light enters your camera. The aperture or

brightness is described by an f-number, which should be f/2.8 or less. By reducing the f-number, you increase the light intensity. The following equipment is important for taking successful photos of the Northern Lights and winter light:

• • • • •

Good camera and lens Tripod and tripod mount Remote shutter release Extra battery Extra memory card

TIPS FOR WHALES If you are photographing whales in the Arctic light, it’s important to use a fast shutter speed. As with Northern Lights photography, you should not be afraid to use a high ISO. A wide aperture is important. A typical lens used for this type of photography is 70200 mm and an aperture of f/2.8. You can also use a lens with an aperture of f/4.0.

TIPS FOR LANDSCAPES AND THE NORTHERN LIGHTS Try to create a good composition at your chosen location. You won’t always get the Northern Lights where you want, but be patient. A well composed landscape in which the Northern Lights are one of the elements is nicer than a Northern Lights photo in which the landscape is clearly secondary. Remember to set your camera before you head out. Use manual settings, the widest possible aperture and infinity focus. You can use tape to lock the focal length and focus. It’s easy to touch these settings when you are out in the darkness,

which can lead to damaging your photos. A typical lens used for Northern Lights photography is a 14 mm wide angle and fast aperture of f/2.8. Be careful not to overexpose the highlight values so the

Northern Lights appear burned out. Moreover, don’t be afraid to use a high ISO value. A photo with a little image noise due to high ISO is often better than a photo with unnecessarily long exposure.

This article is written by Ole Salomonsen. He is an award-winning nature photographer and film maker based in Tromsø, Norway. Ole has hunted the Arctic light with his camera for the past decade and his images and films have been seen by millions around the world. In particular, his films and images of the Northern Lights have attracted international attention with his work being used by international heavyweights such as BBC, Apple, NASA, National Geographic, Discovery Channel and CNN to name but a few. Many consider Salomonsen to be among the very best in the world in his field. You can see more of his work at: arcticlightphoto.no

Unwritten rules and customs

Unwritten rules include showing consideration with headlamp and vehicle lights and not leaving any rubbish. When you visit places like Tromsø for photography, it’s important to be considerate to others. If you are driving a car, so remember to switch off the motor and lights. There may be other photographers nearby who you don’t see, and you run the risk of inadvertently damaging their photos by unnecessary use of headlamps and car lights. Be considerate to others and nature. Remember to leave nothing but footprints and to take all rubbish with you when you leave. 135

FAIRYTALE ISLAND Senja is Norway’s second largest island and is located a short di tance southwest of Tromsø.

in the eastern and southern parts of the island is somewhat milder and the mountains have more rounded tops. The inland valleys contain small villages and farms.

and experienced hikers alike. All hiking trails on Senja are well marked in the terrain and on hiking maps available from the local tourist information office.

You can reach Senja from Tromsø via ferry in the summer. It is also possible to access Senja year round by a bridge further south. The island covers an area of 1,600km² and has a population of nearly 8000. Senja is well known for its varied landscape. The island’s outer coast, the part that faces west and north towards the open sea, is characterized by dramatic mountains and beautiful sandy beaches. Some fishing villages are scattered on the few spaces of flat land. The eastern side of the island, which faces the mainland, is dominated by rolling hills and birch forests. The landscape

CONTRASTS

SUMMER HIKES

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The island offers a rich array of natural and historical attractions. On a drive of a few hours around the island, visitors will experience dramatic and varying landscapes. There is a high chance that you will see the white-tailed eagle while you are exploring by car or from your doorstep if you stay overnight. The seasons in the Arctic provide contrasts with the Midnight Sun in the summer months and the majestic Northern Lights in winter. The distance from the coast to the highest mountain peaks is short, offering excellent hiking opportunities for novices

Ideal ways to explore this exciting island include hiring a bike, kayak or boat. There is a wide range of guided adventures on offer all year round, and the surrounding sea is a paradise for deep-sea fishing and whale watching safaris. Senja offers exciting and varied accommodation options, and the many mountain peaks are perfect for summer hikes and winter ski ascents, all of which are rewarded with spectacular views.

By John A . Angelsen

Mefjord Brygge on Senja ISland Northern Lights, Arctic Boat Safari and Snowshoeing on Senja island – explore the Authentic Fishermen Village and Photogenic Wilderness!

Located by the waterfront

! s e c n e i r e p x e e l Unforgettab

Mefjord Brygge is a leading tourism company on Senja island. We provide memorable experiences, comfortable accommodation by the waterfront , transfer and traditional local food. We are located by the fjord between the sea and stunning mountains, which rise directly from the fjord. We are easily accessible from both Tromsø and Bardufoss airports. Express boat or private transfer. Our winter trips run throughout the winter season from October until April. We are ready to surprise you. Where the road ends, the adventure begins! Contact us and book your activity package now - booking@mefjordbrygge.no +47 77-85-89-80 / www.Mefjordbrygge.no / Mefjordvær, Senja Island 137

STAY AT CAMP TAMOK

Camp Tamok is located in the Tamok Valley, a 75-minute drive from downtown Tromsø. This is the wilderness camp belonging to Lyngsfjord Adventure. It consists of several lavvu (Sami herdsmen’s tents), timber cabins, an outdoor hot tub and sauna, toilet facilities, a husky yard and a reindeer enclosure. 138

The heating and lighting is by open fire, wood stoves and oil lamps. It is primitive, but accordingly authentic and genuine, with a special atmosphere. It is never impersonal, as there are only guided tours with a limited number of guests and staying at the camp is an Arctic experience in itself.

EXCURSIONS

In wintertime the camp is the starting and

ending point for excursions by dog sled, snowmobile and reindeer sled. The trails start from the camp and lead into wilderness areas with no signs of human activity. The camp’s large lavvu and main cabin are where the hot meals are served after sledding, ski school, snowshoeing and other winter excursions. Camp Tamok is located in an area with optimal conditions for experiencing the Northern Lights. Although Camp Tamok is located only a 75-minute

THE WILDERNESS CAMP OF LYNGSFJORD ADVENTURE drive from downtown TromsĂ¸, it is in a different and drier climate zone, with clear inland mountain weather. The dry climate generates many cloud-free night skies in winter, as well as during summer.

GOOD SNOW CONDITIONS

The campâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s location away from the bright artificial lights and inhabited areas makes it perfect for your own Arctic experience - especially also for taking photos of the

Northern Lights. Camp Tamok is of course the destination for a guided Northern Lights visit. You can also choose to spend the night at the wilderness camp. The camp is situated 280 m above sea level, with stable snow conditions. You can often go dog sledding in the period October-May, when down at sea level is often no snow at all at the same time.

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OVERNIGHT Programme L

yngsfjord Adventure, unlike other adventure providers, gives you the opportunity to tailor your own experiences.

On our website you may choose the excursions and accommodation option you prefer. You may sleep in a heated lavvu (Sami herdsmen’s tent), a timber cabin or in a private chalet (small heated wooden hut for two people).

Would you like to spend a day at Camp Tamok with adventures daytime and evening, or rather spend a night in the camp with evening and daytime adventures?

INCLUDED:

■■ ■■ ■■ ■■ ■■

Just pick and choose the adventures and accommodation options that you prefer and we will handle the rest. All overnight programmes include an evening adventure and a daytime adventure the following day - three experiences in one.

Transportation by bus/minibus 3 meals (2 hot) Insulated body suit Winter sleeping bag English-speaking guide

RECOMMENDED:

■■ Warm under garments (wool or fleece is recommended)

SEASON:...........................................November 15 – March 31 DEPARTURE:....................................17:00 outside the Ishavshotel. (Return: 16:00 following day) MINIMUM:.........................................2 guests PRICE: Depends on choice of excursions

DESTINATION Camp Tamok DURATION 19,5 hours + transport, 23hours total

BOOKING:........................................www.lyngsfjord.com +47 77 71 55 88 (09:00 - 17:00) 140

ACCOMMODATION NIGHT IN WILDERNESS CABIN (NOT PRIVATE) Not private 6 rooms/12 guests The cabin has four bedrooms and two lofts and can accommodate up to 10 guests. Staying in the cabin can therefore be very social, as you can expect to meet and get to know other guests from all over of the world. Price: NOK 1,195 per person Children 4-15 years: 50% discount.

NIGHT IN AURORA CHALET (PRIVATE - 2 PAX) Private-2 pax 3 cabins/6guests The Aurora Chalet is our private accommodation for two guests. These are small cabins are heated but do not have running water. One of the roof sides has a window with a bed placed right under the window, at a perfect angle for watching the Northern Lights! Price: NOK 1,295 per person Children 4-15 years: 50% discount.

NIGHT IN THE GAMME (PRIVATE- 2 PAX) Private-2 pax 3 Gammes/4 guests The gamme is a private Sami-style tent for two guests. It is heated to keep the gamme warm and cosy, but there is no running water. Each gamme is equipped with double bed, table and two chairs. Price: NOK 1,295 per person Children 4-15 years: 50% discount.

NIGHT IN SAMI TENT (NOT PRIVATE) Not private 6 berths/12 guests You will sleep in our winter sleeping bags on top of reindeer skins. The lavvu has a capacity of 12 guests. Please note that you will be sharing the lavvu with other visitors, but you will have your own sleeping berth. Not recommended for children under 12. Price: NOK 1 195 per person Children 12-15 years: 50% discount.

NIGHT IN THE CHAR CABIN (PRIVATE FOR 2-4 PAX) Privatef for 2-4 pax The Char Cabin is a private cabin located about 100m from the camp. It is perfect for 2-4 people, and has everything a proper cabin should, including a loft where you will sleep. There is no running water. Price: NOK 1,495 per person Children 4-15 years: 50% discount.

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AN ENGLISH SPEAKER’S GUIDE TO TROMSØ

Although Tromsø and the surrounding area are now popular tourist destinations virtually year-round, most place names and signs remain largely in Norwegian. Some common expressions get translated rather literally, too. This article is designed to provide English-speaking visitors with useful background information to add an extra dimension to the Tromsø experience.

THE SPERMING CLUB IN KARLSØY

ROAD FINANCED BY ALCOHOL SALES

The place name once voted as the county’s funniest is Våtræva (wet arse), a large rock in Kvæfjord municipality near Harstad in South Troms. Another contender is Sædingsklubben in Karlsøy municipality. Named after an old dialect name for a breed of sea gull, the name of the hill literally means “the sperming club”.

A major road in Tromsø, Dramsveien (dram road), was financed by the sale of alcohol in the 19th century. The term dram (a small measure of whisky) is also used in Scotland. Well before the establishment of the government-owned Vinmonopolet (Wine Monopoly), the Tromsø Samlag for Brændevinshandel (The Tromsø Cooperative for Liquor Sales) opened two sales outlets and three pubs in 1878.

THE STREETS OF TROMSØ Storgata is the Norwegian version of the English high street. The section of Storgata in the city centre is a gågata (pedestrian street). Other street names in Tromsø include Tromsø’s oldest street, Sjøgata (sea street), Midnattsolvegen (Midnight Sun road), Nordlysveien (Northern Lights road), Idrettsveien (sports road), Havnegata (port street), Bankgata (bank street) and Turistvegen (tourist road), which leads to Fjellheisen (the Cable Car).

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THE NAMES AND MEANINGS OF TROMSØ’S MANY ISLANDS NOT REINDEER AND WATER ISLAND

...ØY = ISLAND Tromsø is named after Tromsøya, the island on which the city centre is situated. The second part of the word means “island”, while the first part was probably derived from the word straumr meaning “strong stream”. Some believe that the island was originally called Lille Tromsøya (Little Tromsøya) because it’s beside a much larger island, now called Kvaløya. That island was previously called Store Tromsøya (Big Tromsøya) due to the characteristic mountain known as Tromma (the drum).

Two other nearby islands, Reinøya and Vannøya, have names that are often incorrectly translated into English. The former is often called “Reindeer island” but was originally named after another meaning of the word rein and actually means the “island with mountain ridges”. Many assume the rocky island Vannøya (also called Vanna) is named after a lake as vann means “water”, but the name is derived from varna meaning a “place giving protection”.

WEEKEND ISLAND?

Another nearby island Helgøya, no longer has a permanent population, but the picturesque wooden homes on the islands are popular holiday homes. A direct translation of helg (weekend) would now be an appropriate name. However, the name means den hellige øy (the holy island) from the Old Norse word helgi (holy). Helgøya has been a church site since the 13th century. The current church was erected in 1888 after being moved from Hamn i Senja. Hamn (harbour) was an old trading post with a natural harbour and is now a popular tourist resort.

SOMMARØY = SUMMER ISLAND

A popular excursion from Tromsø is to the island of Sommarøy, which can be reached by bridge from Kvaløya. The name “Summer Island” originates to an historic Sami farm, part of which was only used during the summer months. To this day, Sami reindeer husbandry involves winter pastures in the inland and summer grazing areas on the coast.

SEAL FJORD ON WHALE ISLAND

A highlight on Kvaløya is Ersfjord, a narrow fjord surrounded by high mountains rising directly from sea level. It was originally spelt Ertzfjord as ertz was an old name for the grey seal, which was a common sight near the island. Hence, there is a “seal fjord” on “whale island”.

KVAL = WHALE

Kvaløya, which is accessed by bridge from near Tromsø Airport, is commonly referred to as “Whale Island”. The name is appropriate given the large numbers of whales spotted off the coast of the island in recent years. Many local tour guides simply refer to it as Whale Island. The island is 737 square kilometres, making it Norway’s fifth largest island. The sixth largest island, Ringvassøya, is reached by tunnel from Kvaløya. The 10 km long lake Skogsfjordvatnet (forest fjord lake) is the largest lake on an island in the country. Literally translated, Ringvassøya means “Circle Lake Island”.

FUGL = BIRD

Further north is the island NordFugløya (North Bird Island). The island is protected as a nature reserve owing to the rich bird life. Birds nesting here include white-tailed eagle, puffin, the eider duck and the razorbill. People venturing out to the island on organised boat trips can also see otters and grey seals and in the autumn can pick the golden coloured cloudberry.

SKITTENELV = DIRTY RIVER

Other place names near Tromsø include Laksvatn (salmon lake), Skittenelv (dirty river), Grøtfjord (porridge fjord), Storsteinnes (large rock on a headland) and Skogsvika (forest bay).

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AN ENGLISH SPEAKER’S GUIDE TO TROMSØ

NORWEGIAN IS A DIALECT LANGUAGE

I'll write it behind my ear!

Don’t be surprised if Norwegians greet you by saying “Takk for sist” (Thank you for last time). They really mean “Nice to see you again”! If your waiter says “Håper det smaker” (Hope it tastes) when serving your meal, they mean “I hope you enjoy your meal”! By the way, a vacuum cleaner is a “støvsuger” (dust sucker), a fridge is a “kjøleskap” (cooling cupboard) and an electric kettle is a “vannkoker” (water boiler). If a Norwegian says she will “write something behind her ear” (skriv noe bak øret), it’s a direct translation. She really means he will make a mental note or remember it.

If a Norwegian says she will “write something behind her ear” (skrive noe bak øret), it’s a direct translation. She really means she will make a mental note or remember it.

STENGT = CLOSED

Common signs in shop windows are åpen (open) and stengt (closed). Opening hours are written using the 24-hour clock, usually stating weekdays followed by Saturday opening hours in brackets. Shops are generally closed on Sunday. An example of this is 08-22 (09-18), meaning the shop in question is open from 8 a.m. to 10 p.m. on weekdays and from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. on Saturdays. It’s worth noting that some shops and offices have different opening hours in summer and winter and reduced opening hours on the last day before a public holiday.

ROOF AVALANCHE

BLOOD ON YOUR TOOTH

Perhaps the most important sign of all for visitors to Tromsø to understand is Fare for takras (Risk of snow sliding from the roof). You can ignore this if you visit in summewr. However, if you are here in winter or spring, it’s not a good idea to walk near a slanted roof full of snow and ice as it may suddenly slide down in milder weather creating a “roof avalanche”. Pavements below such roofs should be cordoned off when there is a genuine risk, but this is quite rare in Tromsø. Although cases of people being killed by a “takras” are rare, people being covered by snow or damage to parked cars are far more common.

If If someone says you have “blood on your tooth” (blod på tannen), they really mean you are “inspired or driven to do something”. And if they tell you to have “ice in your stomach” (is i magen), they are just saying to bide your time or not to rush.

HIGH PARKING FINES It’s common to see parking signs stating “Maks 2 timer” (Maximum 2 hours). Obviously, the number of hours may change. As parking fines in Tromsø can be high, it’s inadvisable to take any chances.

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FARTS(HAHA!)DEMPERE = SPEED BUMPS Don’t try to stop a bus stating Ikke i rute (not in service) or use a cash dispenser that is i ustand (out of order). Many English-speaking tourists are highly amused by the street sign Farts dempere (speed bumps) and the automated sign stating Din fart (your speed). To avoid a hefty fine, it’s advisable to stick to the fartsgrense (speed limit).

THE NORWEGIAN WORD FOR SUIT IS DRESS You may think business people in Tromsø are casually dressed. It’s not uncommon to turn up for work wearing jeans and a casual shirt. However, people here save their finest clothes for holidays. Virtually everyone celebrates Christmas, New Year and perhaps even Easter wearing a suit or dress. Just to add to the confusion, the Norwegian word for suit is dress!

WHY DID YOU SAY ”BRA”? If a Norwegian says “bra” to a female visitor, he is probably not asking to see her underwear. Instead, he simply means it’s “good”.

TO BE OR NOT TO BE IN THE BUTTER’S EYE If your guide does not speak English so well and says you are in “the middle of the butter’s eye”. Don’t worry, he/ she won’t throw butter at you. They are simply translating the common Norwegian expression (Å være midt i smørøyet) literally and really mean you’re in the “best possible spot”, e.g. to see the Midnight Sun.

If you enter someone’s house, it’s customary to remove your shoes and enter wearing socks.

WHAT’S UNDER YOUR LIP?

This Guide is written by Gavin Tanguay. Gavin originates from New Zealand but has lived in Tromsø for many years. He runs a local company translating tourism-related texts (including this magazine) from Norwegian to English.

At first glance, you could be excused for thinking many Norwegian men (and some women) have a serious gum disease. It’s probably “snus”, a moist powder tobacco, which many put under their upper lip instead of smoking.

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JØRN-HÅVARD EDVARDSEN

Age: 29 Civil status: Single Lives in: Apartment building Typical weekend food: Pizza Favourite café/bar: Compagniet Bar Tips for tourists: The Cable Car Typical Sunday activity: Relax with friends

The People of Tromsø

A WINDOW TO HEAVEN Jørn-Håvard Edvardsen drives a taxi in Tromsø. After recently investing in a new car, he can offer an attraction out of the ordinary. “I think it’s important to enjoy my work and to have satisfied customers. In order to achieve this, I want to offer something extra. My new car has a panoramic window in the roof so passengers can see the Northern Lights without being outside in the cold,” says Edvardsen. Tourists wishing to see the Northern Lights are usually transported by bus. “When you arrive after a bus trip, you watch the Northern Lights for 10 or 15 minutes before you head back, but some tourists wish to be out longer than that. Last winter I had three Chinese tourists with expensive cameras and tripods. I was out with them for three hours and they got to see and photograph the Northern Lights. They had originally planned to be out for an hour and a half, but

Tromsø is a lively city and people go out every night. 146

they decided to spend longer,” says Edvardsen. They appreciated the panoramic window. “It was cold outside so they could sit inside and warm up but still check the sky,” says Edvardsen.

LIVELY CITY

Driving a taxi in Tromsø involves a lot of night work and meeting different people. Most passengers are permanent residents keen to get home after being out on the town. “Tromsø is a lively city and people go out every night of the week. Driving at night means I get to hear a lot about people’s lives. People tell many things about themselves, especially when they are drunk. Sometimes I feel a bit like a hobby psychologist.” Edvardsen is young and single, and he likes to go out too. “The best days are Thursday and especially Saturday. On Friday, people often go out right after work and get tired early. There is less activity on Friday evenings than on Thursday or Saturday,” he says.

TROMSØ IS UNIQUE

For people from out of town, Tromsø seems like a challenging city to drive in. This is particularly the case in winter with slippery roads. “I use non-studded winter tyres and have no trouble getting around. The biggest annoyance isn’t ice and snow,

but the rule about giving way to the right that applies in many intersections around the city,” he says. Regardless of where in the world you are driving, there is one thing that always applies. “Drive calmly. You won’t live any longer if you get agitated about things in traffic. The passengers also appreciate the driver being calm”.

REASONABLY PRICED

Visitors from other parts of the country experience some peculiarities when they travel by taxi. “A survey a couple of years ago confirmed that Tromsø has the cheapest taxi fares in Norway. I have had passengers from Southern Norway who have been surprised by the price level. The other thing is that many people, especially Americans, ask if Uber exists in Tromsø. I haven’t heard of it here. Perhaps the market isn’t big enough here.” Edvardsen enjoys life in Tromsø and has no plans to move. “I especially enjoy the summer. I cycle a lot and go on mountain hikes. I lived for part of my childhood in Henrikvika, which is located just outside Tromsø. The nature there is wonderful and the hike up the mountain Nattmålsfjellet is great,” says Edvardsen. by Ron Røstad

R EN E W ED & R ENOVATED I N T H E CI T Y CEN TER OF T ROM SØ RADISSON BLU HOTEL, TROMSØ IN NORWAY HAS SPENT THE SUMMER MONTHS RENOVATING ALL GUEST ROOMS AND SUITES. FROM BEFORE, THE ENTIRE MEETING AND CONFERENCE AREA, THE RECEPTION AND THE FACADE HAVE BEEN RENEWED. WELCOME TO THE BEST POSSIBLE HOTEL EXPERIENCES IN THE ENTIRE TROMSØ!

RADISSON BLU HOTEL Sjøgata 7, P.O. Box 928, N-9259 Tromsø, Norway T: +47 77 60 00 00 F: + 47 77 65 61 10 radissonblu.com/hotel-tromso

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Tromso Travel Magazine

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The World's Northernmost Distillery

An English Speaker's Guide to Tromsø