White House Cookies
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roland mesnier
a s a n er a of electronic books begins, Thornwillow has embarked on its libretto series, dedicated to the belief that physical books– tangible, aehetically pleasing, letterpressprinted, and beautifully bound–have a new and even more important place in our lives: as repositories of permanence in an increasingly ephemeral world of letters. The series will regularly feature the work of celebrated writers – both eablished greats and dazzling up - a nd - come rs – of ion a nd nonion, from prose to poetry. The Thornwillow Libretto: A growing colleion of voices commemorating our times for times to come.
thornwillow press Ars Omnia Tuetur
contents
1.
Introduction
11
Brandy Snaps
17
11. Chocolate Almond Macaroon Cookies
19
iii. Ginger Cookies
23
iv. Hazelnut Soufflé Cookies
27
v. Palets aux Raisins
31
vi. Peanut Butter Cookies filled with Concord Grape Jelly
35
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Yet again I had recalled the taste of a bit of madeleine dunked in a linden-flower tea which my aunt used to give me… immediately the old gray house on the street where her room was found, arose like a theatrical tableau… marcel proust Remembrance of Things Past
C
o okies are almost everywhere synonymous with celebration: gingerbread at Christmas, butter cookies at weddings, oatmeal raisin at Thanksgiving, chocolate chip on birthdays. Whether you are German, Kenyan, or Vietnamese, whether you take your madeleines with tea, your biscotti with espresso, or dunk your chocolate chip cookie in milk, it is a fact beyond doubt that there is a cookie for every occasion. And nowhere has that fact been more tested than the pastry kitchen of the American White House. From George Washington to Barack Obama, from elegant State Dinners to midnight snacks, the cookie, in all its many manifestations, has been
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the hallmark of hospitality and courier of comfort in the presidential home. James Buchanan liked his apees, Teddy Roosevelt his Sagamore Hill sand tarts, Ronald Reagan his coconut macaroons. Unlike cake or custard, cookies are personal, intimate. Much more than a mere treat, a cookie has the power to transport our memories back to a place of joy. No one knows this better than me. My 25 years as the executive pastry chef for the White House have taught me that food, and especially sweet food, brings people together–and when people gather together, memories are made. During those years, my signature confections landed on the taste buds of thousands of state and foreign dignitaries, kings, queens, prime ministers, actors, artists, and writers, as well as countless security details, gardeners, housekeepers, and other devoted White House staff members. Each year I produced an abundance of sumptuous desserts. In one year, I used 500 pounds of sugar and 300 pounds of chocolate to make tens of thousands of bite-sized treats, along with 40 additional pounds
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of chocolate and 90 pounds of gingerbread to create a Christmas castle, complete with towers and bridges and surrounded by an edible forest. Born in France in 1944, I received my training at a range of culinary establishments throughout Europe, from Germany to London to Paris, learning everything I could from each place I went. It wasn’t until 1979 that First Lady Rosalynn Carter hired me to be the White House pastry chef. I was the first executive pastry chef appointed to presidential staff. For the next 25 years, I dutifully served five presidents, their families, and their guests, developing a reputation not only for the exceptional quality of my confections, but the effort I made to add a creative, personal flair to every dish. I scrupulously studied the eating habits of the members of the first families, crafting dishes tailored to the particular likes and dislikes of each. Attention to detail was essential. At State Dinners I tried to take into consideration the culture and personality of those in attendance. I once sculpted two chocolate tango dancers for President
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Carlos Menem of Argentina. At a State Dinner for the Kenyan President Mwai Kibaki, my dessert was a kind of menagerie including blown-sugar giraffes and chocolate coffee mills. I even created a chestnut ice-cream replica of the Two Towers in Bologna, the hometown of Italian Prime Minister Romano Prodi. During my time as executive pastry chef, the White House saw a tremendous change in the quality and quantity of its desserts. When I began, I worked in a small corner of the main kitchen and adjoining hallway. My budget was limited. Seasonal, fresh ingredients were not yet de rigueur, and cookies and other such confections were often ordered from local bakeries and delivered. However, I quickly took control, gradually introducing quality ingredients and signature desserts. By the mid80s, no dessert left the kitchen without my approval, and there was not a single cookie, cake, or scoop of ice cream served at the White House that was not made in the White House. My efforts earned me my own pastry kitchen and chocolate room in 1989, while my commitment to craftsmanship
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earned the respect and appetites of thousands of presidential guests. I retired in 2004, but with White House Cookies, I invite you back into my White House Kitchen, divulging the secrets to six of my favorite cookie recipes. Each recipe has been thoughtfully selected for its unique flavor and functionality: traditional brandy snaps for a holiday staple, nutty chocolate almond macaroons for a rich indulgence, zesty ginger cookies for a warm delight, light hazelnut soufflé cookies for an after-dinner dessert, sublime palets aux raisins for a delicate treat, and lastly, charming peanut butter cookies filled with concord grape jelly for a nostalgic return to childhood. Cookies take us back. It starts with the simple pleasure of mixing the ingredients, shaping the dough, watching them bake. Then comes the anticipation, the excitement of the first bite. We recall not just the cookies–the textures, the tastes, the smells – or where we were when we first had them, but also the people we shared them with. Cookies are experiences, and, later, memories. With these six recipes, I bring to life the richness of my own
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personal and culinary memories, memories intimately connected to the White House and my 25 years spent serving the first family and their guests. Similarly, I hope that this book will serve you and that each recipe will become part of a memory you and yours forever cherish and share.
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1. brandy snaps
A
traditional cookie that is important to have at Christmas. It’s very unusual in its shape and crunch. First Ladies loved to have this cookie during the holidays to honor their guests as it was something you would not normally find in your corner bakery. ingredients 4 ounces unsalted butter 4 ounces granulated sugar 5 ounces corn syrup ½ ounce molasses 4 teaspoons ground ginger zest of 1 lemon ½ cup brandy 6 ½ ounces all-purpose flour
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white house cookies is the eighth in our series of Libretti. The edition was set in Jenson, printed letterpress and limited to 4,850 copies bound in paper wrappers and 150 copies on husk paper bound in leather with pastepaper made especially for the edition and signed by the author. The edition was designed & produced under the direion of Luke Ives Pontifell libretto viii
thornwillow press Ars Omnia Tuetur
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Winner of 1 8 gold medals for his pastry creations in competitions around the world, roland mesnier lays claim to France’s highest accolade, membership in the French Legion of Honor, as well as a place in the Chocolate and Pastry Hall of Fame. He is the author of numerous books, and he frequently travels the world giving speeches, judging pastry competitions, and participating in fundraising events. p l e a s e l o ok f o r other Thornwillow Libretti by Lorin Stein, Peter Matthiessen, Lesley M. M. Blume, Adam Gopnick, Lewis H. Lapham, and other celebrated artis and writers. thornwillow.com []