Western Tidewater Living Summer 2016

Western Tidewater

Living

Marking History A tour of Western Tidewater using historical markers as guideposts

Growing Gardens

Profiles on area gardeners and their tips for making your garden a success this year

Catching up with...

A father’s lessons carry writer through rough seas

SUMMER 2016 • vol. 7, no. 2

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4 western tidewater living

Western Tidewater

Living

Summer is upon us in Western Tidewater. That means it’s time to fire up the barbecue, head to the beach or ballpark and enjoy the sun.

If you don’t mind getting your hands dirty for some fresh produce, meet three local gardeners who will give their tips for making your garden as colorful and plentiful as can be. You’ll be the envy of your neighbors.

If trips to museums are your idea of fun, save your money and drive around the countryside looking for Western Tidewater’s 23 historical markers. With some dating as far back as 1930, there’s plenty of local history to be found along our roadways. Some are hidden

introduction pretty well, too, so keep your eyes peeled.

If you’re looking something to spice up your neighborhood cookouts, one local’s recipe for gazpacho will have your mouth watering and other party-goers wanting to kiss the cook.

And, lastly, we hope you celebrate your freedom with the 4th of July jamboree in Windsor. Antique car shows, a children’s parade and fireworks will light up the sky for one day, and we have your itinerary for fun.

We hope you make the most of the beautiful summer weather and that you enjoy reading Western Tidewater Living.

Andrew Lind

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Come explore the timeliness treasures and natural beauty of Murfreesboro!

western tidewater living

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contents summer 2016

Cover photograph

by Andrew Lind ON THE COVER: The Historical marker for Rosenwald School in Courtland added in 2015

Western Tidewater

Living

Tony Clark Publisher

INSIDE THIS EDITION

6

PARTY PIX

Photos from barbecues, family reunions, graduation and 5K events featured in this edition

Rebecca Chappell Staff Writer Stephen Cowles Staff Writer Andrew Lind Staff Writer / Sports Editor Ryan Outlaw Designer Loretta Lomax Editorial Assistant Mitzi Lusk Advertising Director Sameerah Brown Advertising Representative Rachel Lassiter Advertising Representative

MARKING HISTORY

A tour of Western Tidewater using historical markers as guideposts

26

20

SUMMER FUN

A revamped summer calendar features a fitting recipe and a feature on fireworks

Western Tidewater Living is published four times a year by Tidewater Publications, LLC P.O. Box 497, Franklin, VA 23851 757-562-3187 Advertising rates and information available upon request to ads@tidewaternews.com.

Subscriptions are $20 annually in-state, $24 annually out of state and $30 annually overseas.

where am I? In each edition, our magazine staff provides a challenge of sorts for readers, testing how much of Western Tidewater they really know.

We photograph a scene in Western Tidewater that is visible to motorists or pedestrians.

Whoever can identify the location pictured above will be entered for a chance to win a $25 gift certificate.

So, if you discover where this edition’s photo was taken, let us know. If you’re right, you could be a winner.

Email your answers to magazine@tidewaternews.com Get out there and enjoy Western Tidewater!

catching up with...

JOHN RAILEY John at a Raleigh meeting with sterilization victim Lela Dunston, who died waiting for compensation. Photo courtesy of Ted Richardson

J

GROWING GARDENS

Profiles on area gardeners and their tips for making your garden a success this year

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40 western tidewater living

32

ohn Railey loves the water. It grounds him and brings clarity and focus to his mission. Every couple of months, like clockwork, he pushes eastward through the vegetation covering the dune slopes of Wrightsville Beach to reach the shore.

With the precision of a captain’s compass, he plots a course to the beach, walking a footpath through sea oats as he makes his way to his habitual afternoon walk along the water’s edge.

Nothing stands a chance of keeping John from the sea.

He pauses to look out over the vastness of the great Atlantic, entranced by the ocean, its “wild power, mystery and limitless horizons.” That’s what his father used to say. Deep in thought, he walks south along the shore then stops again to take in that place where the sky meets the water. He almost misses a wave rolling in. But instinctively, he turns his body sideways and digs his toes deep into the sand to remain erect

Tell us where our photographer took this photo and get a chance to win a gift certificate.

For the spring edition, Andrew Lind took a photo of Southampton Motor Speedway in Courtland.

story by Desiree P. Urquhart

Michelle Gray Office Manager Meagan Barnes Administrative Assistant

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30 western tidewater living

A father’s lessons carry writer through rough seas against the approaching wave.

Digging deep and remaining on his feet are some of those life Richard E. Railey Sr. lessons this respected and celebrated investigative journalist learned from his father decades ago on their summer trips to Nags Head.

John Railey, editorial page edi-

tor at the Winston-Salem Journal, is no stranger to oceans and rivers. The youngest of four children born to Richard E. “Dick” Railey Sr. and his wife, Hazel Bradshaw Railey, John grew up in Courtland, Virginia, and remembers Southampton County as a beautiful community where he fished and paddled on the Nottoway River. “It was cool to be the baby in the family; everyone doted over me,” John jokes. “I followed my father everywhere.”

Dick was a lieutenant in the Navy in the South Pacific during WWII. After the war, he established the family’s law

Catching up with John Railey

party pix

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Camptown Family Reunion Top left: Nadia Smith, 10, with Diane Leonard at the picnic. Top center: Tink Williams wears a T-shirt with the picture of her grandmother, Martha Taylor, who died at age 92 back in February. Williams said that what she remembers best about growing up in Camptown has been her family.

Top right: Annette Giles, left, and Tammy Watson. Bottom left: Jay Wylie protects himself from the heat of the day by wearing a scarf and a hat standing under the shade. Bottom center: Keshon Rawlings, 13, and Malik Lee, 14. Bottom Right: Clyde and Judy Turner Taylor of Carrsville.

PHOTOS BY STEPHEN H. COWLES

western tidewater living

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8 western tidewater living

party pix

Camptown Family Reunion Top: Nick Ingram is seated at left with Bertha Pope and Jean Russell. Middle: Imani and Breon Lee of Richmond with their son, B.J. Lee, 2. Bottom: Camanche Pope, Tiffani Pope, S.J. Pope-McDaniel in the arms of Wanda Martin and Della Rainey Stokes.

Both Camanche and Della said they are daughters of Otelia J. Rainey, for whom the community center is named in the Camptown community.

PHOTOS BY STEPHEN H. COWLES

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Hunterdale Beef BBQ continued Top: Miranda Tillett of Franklin, left, and Tasha Hedgepeth of Zuni. Middle: From left are Robert Lindsay and Bobbie Joe Lindsay, both of Ahoskie, North Carolina, with Heather Francis and Brian Francis, both of Capron. Bottom: Jonathan and Robin Hudgins with their friend, Kenny Gay. PHOTOS BY STEPHEN H. COWLES

party pix

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Hunterdale Beef BBQ continued Top left: Laurie and Andy Fox of Courtland. Middle left: Chrissy Joyner and Judy Beale, both of Franklin.

Middle center: At left, Brittany Johnson with her mother, Brenda Reed, both of Courtland. Middle right: David Whitley stands behind Beth Mattucci, left, and Brooke Young, both of Franklin. Bottom left: Chris Howell, left, Angela Sproul of the Franklin YMCA, Stephanie Sproul of the Children’s Center, and Justin Forrest. Bottom right: Stephanie Ricks, left, with Tara Williams, Michelle Cleaton and Alison Holt.

PHOTOS BY STEPHEN H. COWLES

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Hunterdale Beef BBQ continued Top left: Eliese and Sean DeGroff with their son, Henry, 3. Top right: Kyle Johnson, left, and Mitch Radford, both of Chowan University in Murfreesboro, North Carolina.

Middle: Debra Brock and Coochy Drake take their dinner orders to go. Bottom left: From left are: Billy Gomer of Prince George County; Andrew Allgood; Tamara Jamison and Weston Jamison, both of Carrsville; and Bobby Merricks of Carson, Virginia. Bottom right: Pam and Timmy Moore of Courtland.

PHOTOS BY STEPHEN H. COWLES

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party pix

Southampton Academy graduation Top: Christopher Fly walks to received his diploma. Middle: From left are Caleb Bradshaw, Haley Bunch, Jordan Crowder, Madison Dunn, Aleena Edwards, Seth Edwards, Christopher Fly, Morgan Garris and Ashten Hinkle.

Bottom: From left, Jack Orton, Harrison Pope and William Jackson “Jack” Smith IV, Rickia Sykes and Morgan Trahan, are about to graduate from Southampton Academy.

PHOTOS BY WALTER FRANCES

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party pix

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Windsor 5K Run Left: Benjamin Montoya with his children, James, 1, and Hannah, 3. Right: Kristin Grass and her nephew, Lennox Weaver, at the inflatable for the children’s Fun Run. Below: Members of the Suffolk Fire and Rescue line up for a photo before the race. From left are Jason Belaire, David Creekmore, Todd Helmick, Lucas Weaver, David Devine and Dwight Leidy.

PHOTOS BY STEPHEN H. COWLES

party pix

western tidewater living

Franklin High School graduation Upper left: Franklin City Public School Administration stop for a picture before graduation. Pictured are Director of Teaching, Learning and Accountability Kelvin Edwards Sr., Superintendent Dr. Willie Bell and Director of Human Resources Gail Wade. Middle left: Graduates show off the year they graduate. Pictured are Kaliyah Walloe, Latrina Cross, Javonte’ Baker and Jaquan Walton. Bottom: Franklin High School class of 2016 pause for a picture before walking into graduation.

PHOTOS BY REBECCA CHAPPELL

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120a

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124 24 124

102

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123 131 20

126

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116 122

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r u ter a w 260 191

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23 stories and photos by Andrew Lind composition by Ryan Outlaw

western tidewater living

W

ith their black text on a silver background of more than nine square feet in diameter, the 23 Virginia Historical Markers that dot Western Tidewater’s roadways are hard to miss. From Adams Grove to the banks of the Blackwater River and from the North Carolina State Line to Isle of Wight Courthouse, each marker was erected to commemorate historical people, places or events that occurred nearby.

“They spark a curiosity and appreciation of history in our young people, expose visitors to local events that have helped to shape the world around us, and serve as a source of pride for local residents,” Southampton County Administrator Mike Johnson said.

The Commonwealth began its historical marker program in 1927, making it the oldest such program in the nation, by installing the first markers along U.S. Route 1 between Richmond and Mount Vernon. Most of these markers described either historically significant white men or important military events, such as battles during the Revolutionary or Civil wars.

The idea was conceived by Richard Wight, an amateur historian, whose intent was to attract tourists to the state by highlighting its many historical attributes.

A group of historians, known as the History Advisory Committee, was originally responsible for selecting the person, place or event to be honored, and paid $45 from the state fund for each marker.

However, as the program gained popularity, local residents began to request markers for specific subjects of local interest.

The first marker in Western Tidewater was erected in 1930, marking the estate of Major Thomas Ridley. His home, one mile north of Southampton Parkway near Capron, was made a place of refuge for Nat Turner, who spend the night in hiding following the Insurrection of 1831.

A marker was placed along Meherrin Road, south of Courtland, to commemorate Turner’s insurrection just one year later.

A number of different state agencies have managed the program, including the Conservation and Economic Development Commission beginning in 1927; the Virginia Department of Highways in 1949; the Virginia State Library in 1950; the Virginia Historic Landmarks Commission in 1966; the Division of Historic Landmarks in 1985; and the Department of Historic Resources since 1989. The signature line at the bottom of the markers indicates what department authorized the sign and the year it did so.

The Virginia Department of Transportation assumed responsibility

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22 western tidewater living for installing and maintaining the markers in 1949, and has done so through each successive transfer of management. “[The Virginia Department of Historic Resources currently] handles the application process and the fabrication of the signs. They then alert VDOT when one needs to go up,” VDOT spokeswoman Laurie Simmons said. “VDOT surveys the area they want the marker installed, and we place it in the appropriate place along our right of way, taking into safety concerns.”

The state no longer pays for the markers, and the only cost VDOT incurs is the man hours involved in placing the sign posts into the ground.

“The Commonwealth has not provided funds for the manufacture of new or replacement markers since the mid-1970s,” VDHR Highway Marker Program Manager Jennifer Loux said.

“We have relied on private sponsors and federal transportation grants to get new markers fabricated.”

New markers are established through

a process where an applicant submits a proposal to the VDHR, at which time is researched and reviewed by an editorial committee. The committee then formally presents the proposal to the Board of Historic Resources for approval. Once approved, the marker is manufactured and shipped to the appropriate local VDOT office for installation and, thereafter, is maintained by the department.

“We help the VDHR in identifying markers that might need to be replaced based on our visual inspections of routes during day-to-day operations,” Simmons said. “We then pass that list onto the VDHR, [who makes] the final determination of which ones will be replaced. They will then fabricate those new signs for us and we will replace the old sign on the right of way.”

Loux added that the state has set aside “recreational access funds” for fiscal years 2017 and 2018 that are to be used for the refurbishment or replacement of deteriorated or damage markers, but not for adding brand new markers to

the system.

There has been a push in recent years from the Department of Historic Resources to fund and create markers honoring African-Americans, Native Americans and women to better represent the breadth of Virginia’s history. Both the Nottoway Indian (2000) and Rosenwald School (2014) markers in Courtland were erected at or after the turn of the century as a result.

The cost of these markers is still covered by the state thanks to the Federal Highway Administration’s Transportation Equity Act for the 21st Century.

There have been more than 2,500 historical markers erected throughout the state, and 20 to 40 new markers are added each year.

“Older markers, particularly those from the 1920s-1950s, are now regarded as important artifacts and, in some cases, as community landmarks,” Loux said. “Some residents have grown quite attached to them.”

No. 124 — Nottoway Indians (Installed in 2000) 23350 Southampton Parkway, Courtland The inspiration for the nickname of Southampton High School’s athletic teams, the Nottoway Indians were among the first Native Americans to have contact with English colonists. In 1694, the Nottoway tribe moved its main settlement from closer to the coast to the mouth of the Assoamoosick Swamp in Southampton County. By 1713, most of the land was sold to white settlers.

western tidewater living

No. 260 — Boykin’s Tavern (2000) 17146 Monument Circle, Windsor

Boykin’s Tavern is named for Francis Boykin, who served as a lieutenant under George Washington at Valley Forge. Boykin built the structure in the late 18th century, and donated it to Isle of Wight County in 1800. It is the only remaining structure associated with the old Isle of Wight Courthouse, as it provided food and accommodations for people attending court. photo by Stephen H. Cowles

No. 3 — William Mahone’s Birthplace (1932) 27301 Smith’s Ferry Road, Franklin

William Mahone was best known as a Confederate general whose counterattack at the Battle of the Crater turned into a disastrous defeat for the Union. He was also prominent in the building of railroads throughout the state, holding the title of chief engineer of the Norfolk and Petersburg Railroad. Mahone and his wife, Otelia, are credited with having named the towns along Route 460, with inspiration from the book, “Ivanhoe.”

No. 55 — Rosenwald School (2015) 25499 Florence St., Courtland

Built in 1928, the Courtland Rosenwald School building is one of eight former Rosenwald Schools in Southampton County. Used primarily for the education of African-American children in the 20th century, Rosenwald Schools were jointly financed by the Julius Rosenwald Fund and the local communities.

It stands today as the Courtland Community Center.

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No. 19 — Seven Confederate Brothers (1998) 80 E. Windsor Blvd., Windsor

At the beginning of the American Civil War, six sons of Benjamin and Mary Ann Roberts enlisted in the 16th Virginia Infantry Regiment. Mills, John, Sylvester, Benjamin, Francis and Nathaniel all joined their older brother, 1st Lt. Stephen Roberts of the 11th North Carolina Infantry, in fighting for the Confederates.

Every brother was wounded in service, but all returned to Windsor following the war.

No. 20 — Blackwater-Franklin Line (2000) 485 Carrsville Highway, Franklin

The Blackwater River was a major Confederate thoroughfare during the American Civil War. Several skirmishes happened nearby as Confederate forces were posted at the crossing into Franklin, but no large battles were recorded. It’s most notable for being the crossing point of Confederate Gen. John Bell Hood’s division on the way to aid Lt. Gen. James Longstreet’s seige of Suffolk in April 1863.

No. 116 — The Hand Site (2011) 28101 General Thomas Highway, Franklin

Just east of the marker, near the Nottoway River, stood a Cheroenhaka (Nottoway) Indian settlement, a place where the tribe lived, traded goods, harvested crops and buried loved ones. Archaeologists found shards of pottery, carved stones and skeletal remains at this site, which are now archived in the Smithsonian Institution in Washington, D.C.

western tidewater living

No. 125 — Camp Manufacturing Company (2009) 485 Carrsville Highway, Franklin

Founded in 1887 by three brothers — Paul, James and Robert — the Camp Manufacturing Company was a sawmill on the banks of the Blackwater River. It expanded rapidly, merging with Union Bag and Paper Company to produce paper, paperboard, lumber and particleboard. It was acquired by International Paper in 1999, and the paper mill closed in 2009; it reopened two years later.

No. 115 — Buckhorn Quarters (1930) 21299 Southampton Parkway, Courtland

Buckhorn Quarters was the estate of Major Thomas Ridley. His home, one mile north of Southampton Parkway near Capron, was made a place of refuge for Nat Turner, who spent the night in hiding following the Slave Insurrection of 1831.

No. 122 — Nat Turner’s Insurrection (1931) 29101 Meherrin Road, Newsoms

The leader of the Insurrection of 1831, Nat Turner believed that he was chosen by God to lead his people out of slavery. He and his followers marched through Southampton County toward Jerusalem, the county seat, killing about 60 whites. In the aftermath, many were hanged, including Turner, though he was not captured for nearly two months. 

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SUMMER IN WESTERN what to do SATURDAY, JULY 2

THURSDAY, JULY 7

Carrsville Community Day: The 31st Carrsville Community Day will be from noon to dusk in the Knight Memorial Park. Bring your grills, food and family.

Vendors are welcome. For more information, call 562-5304.

TUESDAY, JULY 5

Bingo night: The Newsoms Ruritans will have bingo night at 7 o’clock in the Ruritan building, 29204 S. Main St. Doors open at 6:30. There will be hot dogs, chips and drinks available for purchase. For more information, call Betty Darden at 6546355.

Craft week: Craft week will be held Tuesday, July 5, through Saturday, July 9, at Walter Cecil Rawls Library in Courtland. Visit anytime of the week to pick up a fun craft to complete at home.

Cut It Out, Matisse: On Monday, July 11 through Friday, July 15, from 9 to 11:30 a.m., students will cut out their own stencils and create collages in an Henri

MONDAY, JULY 11

YMCA opens new spray park story by Rebecca Chappell

Photo courtesy of YMCA

The James L. Camp Jr. YMCA has opened a new spray park that is located next to the pool and will follow the pool’s same hours.

“The new spray park is 0-depth to 1-foot and is for children under 40 pounds,” said Becca Hart, the aquatics director.

The park will include pipes

that spray water, as well as a mushroom sprinkler and a bucket that will fill up and dump water out.

“As the new membership director, I’m always interested in seeing what more we can offer to the community,” Angela Sproul said. “We are excited about what the park will bring to the YMCA. I also think the

parents will be excited about it.

A baby will be able to sit in the park a lot easier than they can in the pool. This pool is going to be a great addition for everyone.”

The pool and the spray parks hours for the summer are Monday through Friday, 11 a.m. to 7 p.m.; Saturday, 11 a.m. to 5 p.m.; and Sunday, 1 p.m. to 6 p.m.

western tidewater living

RTIME

N TIDEWATER Matisse-style of art exploration at the Rawls Art Museum, 22376 Linden St, Courtland.

For more information, call 6530754.

TUESDAY, JULY 12 Bingo night: The Walters Ruritan Club will have bingo night beginning at 6 o’clock in the Walters Ruritan Building. There will be instant games, food and drinks. For more information, call Mike Perry at 6420833.

WEDNESDAY, JULY 20

Paws to Read: Practice reading with a trained therapy dog from 10 a.m. to 1 p.m. Sign up for a 15-minute session at Walter Cecil Rawls Library in Courtland.

FRIDAY, JULY 22 Job and Career Fair: The Suffolk Job and Career Fair will be from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. at Kings Fork Middle School, 350 Kings Fork Road. Job seekers will have access to employers seeking talented candidates.

This event is sponsored by Suffolk Redevelopment and Hous-

ing Authority and the Suffolk Workforce Development Center. For more information, call Mike Smith at 925-6496.

WEDNESDAY, JULY 27 Riptide: Come to Walter Cecil Rawls Library in Courtland from 10 to 11:30 a.m. to meet the Norfolk Tides mascot and design your week 5 prize.

WEDNESDAY, AUG. 3 Sock Rockerz: Come party with the Sock Rockerz at Walter Cecil Rawls Library in Courtland at 10 a.m. and at 2 p.m.

Gazpacho by Dot Gwaltney of Windsor The first four ingredients should be finely chopped: • ½ cup green peppers • ¼ cup celery • ½ cup cucumbers • ½ cup onions • 1 cup peeled tomatoes. I don’t peel mine, though • 2 teaspoons fresh chopped parsley • 1 tablespoon chives • 1 to 3 tablespoons wine vinegar

2 tablespoons olive oil 1 teaspoon salt ¼ teaspoons pepper ½ teaspoon Worcestershire sauce • 1 large can (quart size) of tomato juice • 1 large can (quart size) of V8 juice • 3 cloves of garlic with toothpicks run through them

MONDAY, AUG. 8 Quiltmaking: Sew, what is so awesome about Faith Ringgold? On Monday, Aug. 8 through Friday, Aug. 12, from 9 to 11:30 a.m., students ages 5-14 will be exposed to techniquest of storytelling through quiltmaking. Campers will make a small paper quilt and also sew paper and cloth for unique creations to tell the story of their heart at the Rawls Art Museum, 22376 Linden St, Courtland. For more information, call 6530754.

An example of gazpacho

• • • •

Combine all ingredients in a glass or stainless steel bowl. Cover and chill for at

least four hours. Remove the garlic. The toothpicks will help you find them.

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Celebrating the Fourth of July in style story by Stephen H. Cowles

photos by Laura Zabinski

If all goes as it should on Independence Day in Windsor — and wherever there are Americans — the sun will shine with all its might and the skies will remain clear through the night when it’s time for fireworks.

For both Windsor and Smithfield, which will observe the holiday on Sunday, July 3, the multi-colored display will be done courtesy of American Fireworks Co., which is based in Hudson, Ohio. The company goes back about 100 years, according to Don Robertson, spokesman for Isle of Wight County.

He said the fireworks for both localities have been contracted out for a number of years. Previously, these were done inhouse via the Department of Parks and Recreation.

Firefighters and EMT personnel will be on hand.

“We always have public safety people on standby in case something might go awry,” he said.

In Windsor, the annual celebration is sponsored by the Town, civic organizations and friends. Festivities begin at 5 p.m.

Church Street will be closed from the intersection with Route 460 to the main entrance at Windsor High School beginning at 4:30 p.m.

Handicap parking will be available on the Duke Street parking lot, accessible from Court Street to A Street to Duke Street.

The following events will take place on Church and Duke streets: • Music by Island Boy from 6 to 9:30 p.m.

• Antique Car Show and Awards from 5 to 8 p.m.

• Children’s inflatables and activities from 5 to 7:30 p.m.

• Children’s patriotic parade, beginning at the entrance to Windsor High School at 6 p.m.

• Dinner at 7 p.m.

• Fireworks when the sky is dark.

• Attendees are asked to bring a dessert to share.

• Also, don’t forget to bring a chair or towel.

• The timing of the events may be moved up if inclement weather is approaching.

• Sorry, no pets are allowed at this function. 

Genuine Smithfield exudes the charm and graciousness of bygone eras. Long known for its world- famous hams, this river town also boasts a rich history, picturesque Main Street and a vibrant arts scene.

Visit our website to plan your visit around our many special events. “Jazz Anyone?� by Elly Condit Windsor Castle Park by Jennifer Lycke

Western Tidewater Ad June 2016

VisitSmithfieldVA.com

30 western tidewater living

where am I? In each edition, our magazine staff provides a challenge of sorts for readers, testing how much of Western Tidewater they really know.

We photograph a scene in Western Tidewater that is visible to motorists or pedestrians.

Whoever can identify the location pictured above will be entered for a chance to win a $25 gift certificate.

So, if you discover where this edition’s photo was taken, let us know. If you’re right, you could be a winner.

Email your answers to magazine@tidewaternews.com Get out there and enjoy Western Tidewater!

For the spring edition, Andrew Lind took a photo of Southampton Motor Speedway in Courtland.

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How does your ‘Just messing' with his garden

R

eturning from a road trip on a recent weekend, Felton Beale, 60, of Windsor discovered the rain and wind from earlier that day and the one before had let his garden down.

“All the beans are flattened out,” he said by telephone.

But Beale was confident that a day or so of sunshine will dry them out.

Growing up, he said, there had always been a garden in his family. But it was only about five years ago, Beale said, that he decided to do one.

He’s got his produce growing in a 20 foot by 60 foot space behind the deck and porch of his home.

“Just messing with it,” as he

puts it.

Back on April 17, his grandchildren came to help with planting. Beans (“My grandkids love green beans.”), cucumbers, a variety of peppers, okra — which had to be replanted — and tomatoes, of course. Some canning will be done, such as making “a pile of pickles.”

“Even my wife [Melanie] does much of that,” he added.

All that produce eventually saves a little money on the grocery bill.

Last year there was a fall garden, which included broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, collards (“I love them.”) and kale.

He’ll do the same again this year.

Felton Beale gets help from his grandchildren in planting the garden this past spring. At left with him are Brantley Beale, Peyton Spady, 6, and Barrett Spady, 3. Photo courtesy of Marrisa Spady.

western tidewater living

garden grow? stories by Stephen H. Cowles

Beale’s best directions for newcomers: • When it comes to enriching the soil, Beale will seek out horses for the manure.

The people who have the stables, he said, are “tickled to death to give you some. I brought in a couple loads of topsoil and mixed in the horse manure.”

• Squirrels have been a particular nuisance for him this year, so it's come down to guns and traps.

• For bugs, Beale suggests Seven Dust in a powder or liquid spray form.

Felton Beale reaches down to help plant seeds with two of his grandchildren, Barrett and Peyton Spady. The garden is kept by the side of his home in Windsor. Photo

by Marrisa Spady.

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Decades of experience

G

ilbert Branche, 77, knows a thing or two about gardening, having done so since he was big enough to handle the necessary tools to dig, hoe, till and whatever else is required to raise butter beans, corn and potatoes to fruition. Married to Mildred Branche for 55 years this July, he figures to have had a garden of his own for at least 50 of those years.

In spring, Branche planted butter beans, cucumbers, kale, snaps, squash, tomatoes and, for something different, he said, some onions and radishes. Tomatoes, as you might expect, will be canned and some of it given away. Sweet potatoes are new this year; Branche hasn’t done them in a long time.

When he and his wife come back

from a stay at the beach, there’ll be time for crowder peas.

Branche said he used to do cabbage and collards, but the bugs got to be so bad. In his farming days, there would also be sweet corn, but he doesn’t mess with that anymore. No fruits either. Melons used to be in the garden, but it’s become cheaper to buy than grow.

Planting this year has been a bit tricky, if not outright difficult at times because of rain during several weeks in April and May. The ground needs to be at 60 de-

grees, better germination he said, and the cooler weather has delayed him.

“The rain has put me three weeks behind on my garden,” Branche said, adding that he has had to do second plantings, such as for snaps.

The good news is that he’ll be able to cultivate and harvest right up the first frost.

He recalled there were what he called old folks’ traditions about putting seeds in the soil based on the phases of the moon. His mother had once said something to the effect of planting crops that grow underground on light nights, and those above on dark ones. Branche watches that only a little, but it’s not easy to keep up with the schedule, especially if weather is a factor.

Gilbert’s Growing Advice: • With the skies seeming to finally clear up, there’s still an opportunity now for a person to plant a garden of most anything, Gilbert Branche said.

Many crops take about 60 days to mature (“string beans 50 to 60; pole beans about 80”), but a novice gardener should still check his or her calendar.

• When it comes to soil, light sandy soil will work, but “the darker the land the better,” he said.

• Once you’ve designated the area, use Round Up to first kill the grass, which should take 10 days to two weeks. That will keep the grass from overtaking your garden later. After that’s gone, you can start the planting.

• Branche used to use 5-10-10 fertilizer, but now 10-10-10 does the job of giving the important nutrients for growth.

• Another factor to consider when doing a garden will be pests. “Groundhogs have been my biggest problem,” he said.

Shooting has been one method and trapping another, but those critters, Branche added with a bit of a smile, “seem to be smarter then I was.” An electric fence is another option that’s had results.

• A good size of garden for a newbie is 24 feet by 24 feet.

western tidewater living

Garden will ultimately yield plentiful harvest

O

Merrell Carr uses a hoe to till the garden, which aerates the soil and keeps it rich. This year he has devoted a total of 50 feet to his personal project behind his home in Ivor.

The summer squash is coming along.

n a recent rare Sunday that wasn’t raining buckets of rain, Merrell Carr of Ivor took advantage of the reprieve to do some tilling in his garden behind the house. As he goes all around, the hoe aerates the soil, which Carr said will aid growth. That’s all the better for those relatives, neighbors and friends who will eventually share in the bounty.

As with so many fruit and vegetable gardeners, Carr, 55, doesn’t keep all that he grows behind his house in Ivor. If you’ve ever had a garden, then you know how it can yield sacks of one vegetable or another.

“I’ve always had a big garden, and I enjoy giving a lot away,” he said, adding that his mother, Barbara Carr, will be ready to begin canning.

This year there’s eggplant, which sadly hasn’t been faring too well so far; tomatoes and

yellow squash are also among the variety of vegetables; no fruits, though.

His garden arrangement is not a traditional rectangle. This year’s space measures 50 feet total, but there’s a long row for the tomatoes, with a strip of summer squash and zucchini and snaps and cucumbers at a 90-degree angle on one side.

A foot or two apart is a line of green beans.

“I enjoy messing with it,” Carr said about his garden which is strictly his; wife Jennie has her own projects.

All of the planting was done by the first of May. Usually in the past he’s started by midApril. While the rain’s been a challenge for him as well, Carr anticipates harvests until the first frost, probably sometime in late October; that’s when he’ll clean up the space for next spring. 

Carr’s counsel for new gardeners: • To enrich the soil, Carr uses lime and 10-10-10 fertilizer, but cautions in its use. “It'll burn if you put too much,” he said. Three handfuls spread around every three weeks seems to work for him.

• Do no more than you can handle in size.

• Speaking words of encouragement to the plants seems to work for him. It can’t hurt. Perhaps they know he’s — heh, heh — rooting for them.

• For seeds and other supplies, Carr has used Grayson and Emma’s in Courtland and Windsor Hardware on a 50-50 basis. “I’ve had real good luck with both places,” he said.

• Keep the area clean of weeds, and watch out for bugs and pests, such as “wascally wabbits,” as cartoon character Elmer Fudd would describe Buggs Bunny. They're not cute when they're nibbling on your carrots or lettuce.

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36 western tidewater living

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40 western tidewater living

catching up with...

JOHN RAILEY story by Desiree P. Urquhart

John at a Raleigh meeting with sterilization victim Lela Dunston, who died waiting for compensation. Photo courtesy of Ted Richardson

J

ohn Railey loves the water. It grounds him and brings clarity and focus to his mission. Every couple of months, like clockwork, he pushes eastward through the vegetation covering the dune slopes of Wrightsville Beach to reach the shore. With the precision of a captain’s compass, he plots a course to the beach, walking a footpath through sea oats as he makes his way to his habitual afternoon walk along the water’s edge. Nothing stands a chance of keeping John from the sea.

He pauses to look out over the vastness of the great Atlantic, entranced by the ocean, its “wild power, mystery and limitless horizons.” That’s what his father used to say. Deep in thought, he walks south along the shore then stops again to take in that place where the sky meets the water. He almost misses a wave rolling in. But instinctively, he turns his body sideways and digs his toes deep into the sand to remain erect against the approaching wave. Digging

A father’s lessons carry writer through rough seas deep and remaining on his feet are some of those life lessons this respected and celebrated Richard E. Railey Sr. investigative journalist learned from his father decades ago on their summer trips to Nags Head.

John Railey, editorial page editor at the Winston-Salem Journal, is

no stranger to oceans and rivers. The youngest of four children born to Richard E. “Dick” Railey Sr. and his wife, Hazel Bradshaw Railey, John grew up in Courtland, Virginia, and remembers Southampton County as a beautiful community where he fished and paddled on the Nottoway River. “It was cool to be the baby in the family; everyone doted over me,” John jokes. “I followed my father everywhere.”

Dick was a lieutenant in the Navy in the South Pacific during WWII. After the war, he established the family’s law firm, Railey & Railey, which his eldest

western tidewater living

son, Richard Jr., heads and continues the practice in Courtland today. Dick survived typhoons and ships being blown up beside him.

“That experience at sea built the character of a man with guts and a commitment to endurance,” says John.

“Traits I believe he wanted to pass on to me.”

“My father never saw the ocean until he was a grown man, so he felt it important to start taking me to Nags Head when I was a child in the 1960s to teach me how to respect the power, beauty and endless horizons of the deep blue sea,” John says. “My father was strong; he used to tell me stories of how he willed himself not to get seasick when his ship was on turbulent waters.”

John got the message.

He moved to the Piedmont-Triad Region of North Carolina in 1986 and married his wife, Kathleen Haggerty, in 1995. He joined the W-S Journal in 1997, and for almost two decades has continued living the lessons taught by his father. John achieved national recognition when he used the power of his profession to fight against waves of injustice by giving voice to victims of genocidal eugenics who could not stir the attention of authorities who would rather have kept their heads stuck in the proverbial legal sand.

John joined a team of journalists that dug up the sand to uncover the records of North Carolina’s dark and shameful history of an aggressive program of forced and coercive sterilization of countless numbers of its poor and minority citizens. In 2002, the newspaper published a series of articles, “Against Their Will,” which led to an official state apology to victims and a legislative effort to compensate them.

Victim compensation became John’s cause. In 2015, Wipf & Stock published

John and former state Rep. Larry Womble, a main ally in the fight. Photo courtesy of Kathleen Railey his book, “Rage To Redemption in the Sterilization Age: A Confrontation with American Genocide,” in which he chronicled his partnership and journey with Nial Cox Ramirez, made barren in 1965, to reopen her case against the state and to ultimately help win reparations for her and more than 200 other sterilization victims. John also joined forces with former state Rep. Larry Womble, a main ally in the fight. (Larry is still recovering from a car wreck that almost killed him during the fight).

Dubbed a “watchdog, crusader, storyteller and wordsmith, John has won numerous awards for his editorial writing and column writing, but his book’s energetic first-person participatory writing style has garnered him praise across the pantheon of writers of history and ethics. His Gonzo-like journalism, a style made popular by Hunter S. Thompson in 1970 in which a reporter actually becomes involved in the action of the story, gave John “both a front-row seat and a front-door access to the history as it unfolded,” according to author Edwin Black in the book’s

foreword.

“There is no better man in the nation to tell the story as both a warning and a reminder to humanity to the victimization the best and the brightest can commit when they are convinced they alone carry the burning truth and are willing to immolate all who stand in their way,” writes Black.

So how did John’s personal commitment to reporting truth evolve?

This Southampton County native attended Courtland Elementary and confesses to having said “white trash” with and about his classmates, but did not use the “N-word.” His parents forbid it.

He attended Southampton Junior High and graduated from Southampton Academy, but laments that he wasted through a year at the University of Virginia before transferring to the University of North Carolina-Chapel Hill. At UNC, he joined the Sigma Alpha Epsilon Fraternity, the only existing national social fraternity founded in the Antebellum South, a distinction of which he’s not proud now. He

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“There’s no place to have a bad paddle. And there’s no place to be closer to God than on the water.”

John on the new bridge over the Nottoway River in Courtland on Christmas Day 2015.

Photo courtesy of Kathlee Railey

earned his Bachelor of Arts in English at Carolina.

He says he was “wild” in college and remembers a time when he used to tell and laugh at racist jokes. Those leanings gradually dissipated, especially as he developed a correspondence with the Pulitzer Prize-winning William Styron, who wrote “The Confessions of Nat Turner,” about the leader of the slave revolt in Southampton County.

He made one of his few trips to New York to attend Styron’s funeral several years ago.

Eventually, as John’s writings began to expose inequalities based on class and race, his life began to arch. After much soul-searching and self-assessment, he admits to finally understand-

ing and accepting his white privilege, and in time, “overcame my white guilt and fought back my ‘inner south.’”

John continued to reflect upon the lessons learned on the beach at Nags Head. Despite the ocean’s wild power and its mystery, he remembered the elder Railey teaching him that the ocean had a limitless horizon.

“My father always said, ‘Sometimes, what is right and what is practical have a way of aligning. The main thing is, no matter what the challenge, never surrender to the waves. Dig deep, stand your ground, keep fighting.’”

And fighting to get at the truth has been and remains John’s mantra. When asked if he had one last cause on which to fight, John declares without hesita-

tion that it would be three things in his state: restoring full support for public education, restoring full voting rights and effecting criminal justice reform to ensure the innocent are not imprisoned and the guilty don’t go free.

Asked when he would retire, he emphatically declares, “Never; I intend to work till I drop, just like my dad.” This, coming from a man who humbly says his epitaph should simply read: “Son, Husband and Father. Fair and Honest Journalist.” Until that day, he looks forward to enjoying more time reading, talking politics and paddling on the river or the ocean.

“There’s no place to have a bad paddle. And there’s no place to be closer to God than on the water.” 

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