20 minute read
Tidewater Kitchen: Pamela Meredith
Fire Up the Grill
It’s that “cooked outdoors” flavor that draws Southerners bearing skewers of meat and vegetables and platters of thick burgers to the grill in summer! The smoky aroma penetrates the air, tempting the neighbors to grill and even prompting friendly conversations between outdoor chefs.
If you’d like something other than the usual grilled entrée, you can impress your guests with recipes like Bleu Cheese & Bacon Burgers. One bite reveals a delicious surprise! Grilled Vegetable Salad, some crusty bread and the special Grilled Pound Cake are all you need to complete the meal.
General Grilling Advice
Allow 1 hour before you want to start grilling. Figure on about 15 minutes to clean and prepare the grill (scraping the rack, emptying
the ashes, setting the fire) and 45 minutes to heat it. Watch the grill at all times ~ not only for safety reasons, but so you can control any flare-ups that occur.
Have all the tools you will need at hand before you begin. Keep the grill clean. Black build-up can give your food an unpleasant taste and can also cause the food to stick. Remember to empty the ashes so that oxygen can flow around the coals and keep them going.
Marinades
The definition of a marinade is a paste or liquid mixture that food soaks in before it is cooked.
Marinating time can be anywhere from 15 minutes to 48 hours. The oil in the marinade helps the food retain moisture, gives it flavor and keeps it from sticking when it is cooked. The acid in the mixture provides the food with tremendous flavor and helps to tenderize it. Common acids in a marinade are wine, vinegar, soy sauce, mustard, citrus juice or even yogurt.
The amount of oil versus acid will depend on the type of food and how tenderized we want it to be. For instance, a piece of flank steak is very tough and will require more acid and more marinating time. Fish, on the other hand, should marinate for a much shorter time in a mostly
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oil-based mixture. This is because acids actually cook the proteins in the fish while it is marinating.
Marinate meat and poultry for up to two hours at room temperature, or in the refrigerator for up to 48 hours. Marinate fish and seafood for no longer than 30 minutes at room temperature or 2 hours in the refrigerator. Always remove the food from the refrigerator 30 minutes before it needs to be cooked. Cold fish or meat will end up overcooked on the outside and raw in the middle.
Marinate in a glass or ceramic dish just large enough to hold the food and marinade. A heavy-duty zip-lock bag will also work. Make sure to force the air out of the bag before sealing it, and be sure to turn the food several times during marinating. Pat the food with a paper towel before grilling to remove excess marinade and help reduce flare-ups.
Any marinade can be used to baste food during grilling. It can also be used to flavor a sauce as long as it is cooked first. Baste only every 5–7 minutes, or once the food has been turned and then once after it is turned again. Dry marinades or rubs made with herbs and spices can add flavor to food without adding liquid. Simply coat the food with oil or clarified butter and then pat the seasonings on generously.
Tips for Cooking Beef
Beef is perfect for grilling. If you
master a few simple techniques, you will be able to grill meat that is tender and juicy inside and has delicious charcoal flavor outside. Always pick good cuts of meat, signified by a prime or choice label. The meat should have marbling throughout, which will baste it from within.
The best steaks for grilling are those from the loin and tenderloin. These include the porterhouse, the T-bone, the New York strip and the filet mignon. Just brush them with oil and grill. Store the meat in the refrigerator, wrapped loosely in wax paper, until you are ready to use it.
Always bring the meat to room temperature before grilling. A cold steak that is put on the grill will be cold in the middle and overdone on the outside. Slit the fat around the edges to prevent the steak from curling, but do not pierce the meat. Sear the steaks with the cover off for 30 seconds on each side. Then grill, turning only once, until they are done. If the steaks are more than 1½ inches thick, cover the grill after searing.
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To check for doneness, make a small slit in the middle of the meat before you think it’s done. Good steaks turn tough if they are overcooked. Don’t pierce the meat with a fork during cooking, as this will cause it to release its juices.
Sirloin, round and flank steaks are tougher cuts of meat. Sirloin is fine for the grill. Marinate it in the refrigerator, bring it to room temperature and then grill on an open grill if it is less than 1½ inches in thickness. Round steak is a poor candidate for grilling since needs a slower form of cooking to become tender, but flank steak is very good grilled. Cook it about 6 minutes per side, then let it rest about 5 minutes before slicing it diagonally against the grain of the meat. The way you slice this cut is very important. If you aren’t sure which way the grain runs, ask your butcher before you buy it. Ribs are also very good grilled. Cook them in the oven at 350 degrees for 45 minutes, then finish them on an open grill for 20 minutes.
To make cross-hatches, simply place the meat on a hot grill and cook it long enough to develop dark char lines. Rotate 90 degrees and allow it to char again. Turn the food over and finish cooking.
Fish and Shellfish on the Grill
Fish and shellfish are perfectly matched with the grill. Correctly cooked, they turn out tender and juicy. The most important rule about fish on the grill is not to overcook it! Fish can go from just done to overcooked in a matter of seconds. A general rule is that a ¾-inch fish fillet will cook in about 8 minutes, or 4 minutes per side. Remember to bring the fish to room temperature before cooking so that it will cook evenly.
Leaner fish like swordfish, halibut, snapper and any delicate fish will benefit from an oily marinade to keep it from drying out. Most other fish, however, will contain enough natural oils to keep it moist during grilling.
Always oil the cooking rack before heating the grill, and be sure to brush fish fillets with oil or clarified butter to prevent sticking. Sear the fish quickly over a hot grill to prevent it from losing any of its juices. You can leave the lid open if the fillets are under 1½ inches thick. Grill thicker pieces or whole fish with the lid closed to avoid overcooking the outside before the inside is done.
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Move the fish as little as possible, turning it only during the searing process and then twice while finishing the cooking. A long spatula is best for this job so that you can slide the fish fillet on and off without breaking it. A fish basket is another useful tool. This holds a large fish together and grills whole fish perfectly.
Fish is done when it flakes apart easily. The flesh should be barely opaque in the center and firm to the touch on the outside. Fish and shellfish are subject to carryover cooking, meaning they continue to cook after they’re removed from the grill. Remove from the heat on the under side of done, as it will continue to cook for a few minutes afterward.
Shrimp, lobster and crab cook quickly on the grill and are done when the flesh turns translucent to opaque. Shellfish such as clams and oysters, if cooked whole in the shell, are done when the shell pops open.
Mixed Grilled Vegetables
Vegetables are ideal for grilling. The dry, intense heat of the
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grill locks in moisture and actually heightens flavor by bringing out the vegetables’ natural sugars. Avoid peeling veggies before putting them on the grill. Instead, brush the skin and flesh with oil. You can also add an herb rub for flavor. Start them in the center of the grill to sear them, and then move to the outside to finish cooking.
Most vegetables require just 15 minutes or so on a covered grill, or 5–10 minutes longer if cooked uncovered. Be creative with the vegetables you choose for grilling. Radicchio quartered, oiled and grilled makes a wonderful warm salad. Don’t be afraid to experiment ~ you may be surprised!
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Carrots: Select fresh, mediumsized carrots with the greens still on. Remove the greens and clean, but do not peel. Rub with oil and grill whole, turning frequently, until tender, about 20 minutes.
Eggplant: Eggplant is really at its best when grilled. Slice into ½-inch rounds and then salt to eliminate the bitterness if you like. Just salt both sides, place on a paper towel and allow to set for 30 minutes. Rinse the eggplant and dry with paper towels. Brush lightly with oil, and grill for 7 minutes per side. Small Japanese eggplants can be grilled whole. It is delicious to top these with fontina cheese while they are on the grill. Remove from the grill when the cheese melts, then serve.
Garlic: Garlic is wonderful roasted and can easily be finished on the grill for a smoky flavor.
Simply place in a small ceramic dish, sprinkle with olive oil, wrap in
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a double thickness of aluminum foil and bake for 30–40 minutes at 400° F. Finish the cooking by moving the garlic to the grill for about 15 minutes. To cook directly on the grill, buy a garlic roaster. Cut the top off the garlic, drizzle with olive oil and surround it with fresh herbs. Place on your grill for 25–30 minutes. Use the garlic on bread or pureed with butter and olive oil to top fish and chicken. handled carefully, will grill well ~ simply rub them with oil and grill, turning frequently, until brown. These make wonderful plate decorations.
Peppers: Roasted peppers can be added to anything from salads to sauces. Toss the whole pepper onto the grill and turn frequently until it is charred and blackened. When it is done, place the pepper in a paper bag, fold over the top and allow it to steam for 15 minutes. Remove it from the bag, peel away the charred skin and clean out the seeds and stem. You can now slice it and use it as you wish. Hot peppers such as the Anaheim and poblano can be prepared in the same way. Another easy method is to toss bell peppers on the grill when you’re finished grilling dinner, cover it and close the air vents. The residual heat will roast the peppers perfectly in about 2 hours.
Potatoes: Potatoes are excellent grilled. They will be golden on the outside and soft and tender on the inside. Denser potatoes such as the red, new and boiling varieties make for the best grilling. Small potatoes can be cooked whole. Simply rub
Mushrooms: Any mushroom, wild or domestic, is wonderful grilled. Brush clean, then skewer mushrooms and cook on a medium-hot grill until they are brown and tender. Dried mushrooms can be skewered and grilled as long as you soak them in warm water for 30 minutes before grilling.
Onions: Quarter or slice larger onions, brush with oil and then skewer to hold them together. Smaller onions can be grilled whole on a skewer. Cook for 15 minutes or until brown and soft when pierced with a fork. Whole scallions, if
them with oil, prick a few times and grill until tender when pierced with a fork, about 30 minutes. Cut larger potatoes into 1-inch slices. Rub them with oil and grill until tender and brown, approximately 15 minutes per side.
Squash: All different types of squash are wonderful on the grill, and summer is a great time to explore unique squashes that we don’t see all year long. Summer squash, yellow or crookneck squash and zucchini just need to be trimmed, oiled and grilled until soft. Choose smaller squash for the best flavor.
Tomatoes: Summer is the time to use as many sweet, vine-ripened tomatoes as you can. Slice larger tomatoes or use cherry tomatoes whole and skewered. Both green unripe tomatoes and tomatillos are delicious cut into thick slices and grilled. Simply oil the tomatoes and grill them until charred and soft, about 10 minutes.
Grilled Fruits
A little fruit prepared over the last glow of the fire is the perfect end to a wonderful grilled meal.
Apples: Slightly firm, tart, juicy apples, such as the Granny Smith, are particularly good grilled. Core and halve the apples, but do not peel them. Rub with a little butter or marinate in oil, white wine vinegar and honey. Grill apples halved, quartered or sliced until tender and browning.
Bananas: Grill with some brown sugar on top, add a side of ice cream, and you’ll be in heaven.
Bananas need to be slightly firm.
Brush with melted butter and honey, and grill until tender. Be careful and turn them only once, as they can fall apart easily.
Cherries: Hot grilled cherries are wonderful served over ice cream. Simply pit and skewer the cherries and grill them until hot and juicy.
Pears: Choose pears like
Bartlett and Anjou for grilling, as they are fine in texture and slightly firmer. Select fruits with smooth skins and no soft spots. Halve and core them, but do not peel. Rub with butter and grill until tender.
Peaches & Pineapple: The natural sugars in peaches and pineapple caramelize during grilling, making these fruits perfect for serving with ice cream or in tarts with lightly sweetened whipped cream. Just trim off the top, bottom and skin, then grill in 1-inch slices or wedges. 124
GRILLED FLANK STEAK SANDWICHES
3 c. dry red wine 3 c. onions, chopped ½ c. dry sherry ¼ c. dark sesame oil 2¼ c. superior soy sauce ½ c. olive oil 8 large garlic cloves, chopped 1 T. dry mustard 1 T. ground ginger 2 flank steaks, about 1 lb. each 6 large bell peppers (red, yellow and orange), julienned 3 large red onions, cut into ½-inchthick rings Grilled sourdough rolls
Combine first 9 ingredients in large bowl. Divide steaks, bell peppers and red onions among large shallow pans. Pour marinade over and turn to coat. Cover and refrigerate 3–6 hours.
Prepare barbecue for high heat. Drain steaks and vegetables. Grill steaks to desired degree of doneness, about 4 minutes per side for
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rare. Transfer to platter. Grill vegetables until they begin to brown, about 4 minutes per side. Slice steaks thinly against grain. Arrange steaks and vegetables on large platter. Serve with grilled rolls, allowing everyone to make their own sandwiches.
BLEU CHEESE & BACON BURGERS
For bleu cheese butter: 4 T. butter 2 T. bleu cheese crumbles (recommended: Treasure Cave)
For the burgers: 1½ lbs. lean ground beef ½ c. bleu cheese crumbles (recommended: Treasure Cave) ¼ c. real bacon pieces (recommended: Hormel) 1 T. Montreal steak seasoning (recommended: McCormick Grill Mates) Salt and freshly ground black pepper 4 onion rolls, toasted Lettuce, tomato, onion For bleu cheese butter:
In a small bowl, mash together butter and 2 T. bleu cheese crumbles with a fork; set aside.
For the burgers:
In a mixing bowl, combine ground beef, ½ c. bleu cheese crumbles, bacon pieces and steak seasoning. Wet your hands to prevent sticking, and shape into 4 patties slightly larger than the buns. Cover with plastic and set aside in refrigerator.
Set up grill for direct cooking over high heat. Brush and oil grate before cooking. Salt and pepper burgers and place on hot grill. Cook for 4 to 5 minutes per side for medium. Serve hot on toasted onion roll. Spread with bleu cheese butter, lettuce, tomato, onion and sliced avocado, if using.
INDOOR: Follow instructions for preparing burgers. Preheat broiler. Place burgers on wire rack over foillined baking sheet or broiler pan. Broil 6 inches from heat source for 4–5 minutes per side for medium.
CHICKEN KEBABS
WITH VEGETABLES
1½ lbs. skinless boneless chicken breasts, cut into 1½-inch pieces 12 cherry tomatoes 1 zucchini 1 squash 12 mushrooms
Tidewater Kitchen 3 T. prepared horseradish 4 T. extra-virgin olive oil 3 medium-large red onions, thinly sliced (about 2 lbs.) 2 sprigs fresh thyme Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 c. red wine ¼ c. honey ¼ c. red wine vinegar 1 garlic clove, crushed 2 T. balsamic vinegar 4 large portabella mushrooms (about 1 lb.), stemmed Lettuce leaves 4 whole grain buns or whole wheat Marinade: English muffins, split and toasted ¼ c. fresh lemon juice 3 T. olive oil Place the yogurt in a paper towel2 green onions, minced lined strainer set over a bowl. Set 4 garlic cloves, minced aside to drain and thicken, about 1 t. basil 60 minutes. Discard the watery liquid. Whisk the horseradish into the
Combine all ingredients in large thickened yogurt. bowl. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate at least 4 hours or overnight.
Prepare barbecue for mediumhigh heat. Thread chicken onto 12 skewers, then thread vegetables on separate skewers. Sprinkle kebabs with salt and pepper. Grill until chicken is cooked through, turning occasionally, about 8 minutes. Vegetables will cook in about 2 minutes per side. Transfer to platter and serve. Serves 4.
PORTABELLA BURGERS
½ c. low-fat plain yogurt
Meanwhile, heat 2 T. olive oil over medium heat in a medium skillet. Add the onions and 1 thyme sprig, and season with salt and pepper to taste. Cook, covered, until the onions have wilted, about 10–15 minutes (stir occasionally to prevent sticking). Add the red wine, and simmer over high heat until most of the wine is absorbed into the onions. Add the honey and red wine vinegar and simmer gently until the onions are jam-like, about 15 minutes.
Preheat a stovetop grill pan over medium-high heat. Whisk the remaining 2 T. oil, garlic and balsamic vinegar in a bowl. Strip and add the leaves from the remaining sprig of thyme. Coat the mushroom caps all over with the flavored olive oil. Grill the mushrooms, turning as needed, until tender but not mushy, about 3–4 minutes per side. Season with salt and pepper.
Sandwich the mushroom between the buns and top with onion jam, lettuce and a dollop of horseradish cream. Serve warm.
GRILLED VEGETABLE SALAD
2 red bell peppers 2 orange bell peppers 2 zucchini 1 large eggplant 1 red onion Italian sea salt and pepper to taste 1 T. balsamic vinegar 2 garlic cloves
Wash the vegetables. Seed the peppers and cut in quarters. Cut the zucchini in half and slice each half lengthwise into 3 pieces. Slice the eggplant into thick rounds. Cut the onion into quarters. Grill the vegetables on the barbecue. Season with salt and pepper. Using an electric mixer, beat the vinegar, garlic, basil and olive oil for 1 minute. Place the grilled vegetables in a bowl, pour the dressing over them and marinate for about 1 hour.
GRILLED POUND CAKE with BERRIES and CHOCOLATE
CHUNK ICE CREAM
Here’s a great idea for a summer dessert. To make preparation even easier, use your favorite cherry or pecan ice cream.
¾ c. any favorite berry 1 c. boiling water 5 T. brandy 1½ pints vanilla ice cream, softened slightly, or your own homemade 132
4½ T. coarsely chopped bittersweet chocolate ½ c. coarsely chopped toasted pecans (optional) 1 16-oz. loaf pound cake or your favorite homemade pound cake ¼ c. (½ stick) unsalted butter, melted
Place berries in medium bowl. Pour 1 c. boiling water over. Let stand until softened, about 10 minutes. Drain and pat dry. Mix the berries and 1 T. brandy in small bowl.
Place ice cream in large bowl. Mix in berries, semisweet chocolate and pecans, if desired. Cover ice cream mixture and freeze until firm, about 2 hours.
Prepare barbecue for medium heat. Cut pound cake into 16 slices, about ½ inch thick. Brush both sides of each cake slice with melted butter. Grill until lightly toasted, about 30 seconds per side.
Place 2 cake slices on each of 8 dessert plates. Place 1 scoop ice cream atop cake slices. If you wish, drizzle 1½ t. brandy over each serving.
Pamela Meredith, formerly Denver’s NBC Channel 9 Children’s Chef, has taught both adult and children’s cooking classes on the south shore of Massachusetts.
For more of Pam’s recipes, visit the Story Archive tab at tidewatertimes.com.
