Tierney Kelman 1103597 EFMM1003 Group B1B Brand & Retail Management
Contents. History Of Jaeger. 4-5 Current Retail Portfolio. 6-7 Key Performance Indicators. 8 Current Image. 9-13 Branding. 14-15 Themes, Stories & Concepts. 16 Trimmings & Details. 17 Product Categories. 18-19 Key Shapes. 20-21 Existing Competitors. 22 New Competitors. 23
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Countries Of Origin. 24 Fabrics By Product Category. 24 Pricing Architecture. 25 Assortment. 26 Customer Profile. 27 Psychographic Profile Graph. 28 SWOT Analysis. 29 Rationale. 30-31 Bibliography. 32 References 32
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History Of Jaeger. Jaeger is a luxury British brand renowned for designing stylish, innovative and superb quality womenswear, menswear and accessories. The cornerstones of all Jaeger’s collections are its coats, tailoring and knitwear; the majority of which are made from luxurious yarns and natural fibres. 1880
1884
1885 1902
Dr Gustav Jaeger’s first edition of ‘Health Culture’ was released in German. He supported the health benefits from wearing clothing made from animal fibres such as merino wool alpaca and cashmere. Lewis Tomalin translated ‘Health Culture’ into English. Dr Jaeger’s Sanitary Woollen System Company was founded by Tomalin. First store was opened on Princes Street London, W1..
Dr Gustav Jaeger and his book ‘Health Culture.’
Charles Dawson, Art Nuveau artist and architect designed catalogues and stores and advertisements. Jaeger introduced woven camel hair as a clothing fabric.
Figure 2.
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Figure 1.
Expanded into sportswear and fashion items.
1910’s
Awarded the Royal Warrant to supply to King Edward VII Stables.. Dr Jaeger’s Sanitary Woollen System Co. was reduced to just Jaeger Co. Ltd.
1910
Lewis Tomalin died at 85 and left his son Henry the business.
1902
1923
New retail depot opens on Oxford Street.
1924
Humphrey Tomalin becomes Managing Director.
1930
Maurice M Gilbert, came from Selfridges to Jaeger as a Director. First retailer that runs independently in Selfridges.
1935
Flagship store opened on Regent Street and the triple line “Straw” logo was launched.
Figure 4.
1908
1940’s
By now, Jaeger had stores in India, South Africa, New Zealand and Jamaica.
1950’s
Washable synthetic fibres were put into sportswear and Marilyn Monroe wore Jaeger. Young Jaeger was launched for 17-25 year olds..
1960 1961
Jaeger is now a PLC.
1967
The Coats textile group acquired Jaeger.
1970’s
Sales increased to £100million
1984
Jaeger celebrates 100 years by parading down Regent Street.
1990’s
Jaeger grew to new markets including Dubai, Taiwan and Chile.
1995
Dame Judy Dench wore Jaeger in her roles in the ‘James Bond’ films.
2003
Jaeger was sold to Harold Tilman, a fashion entrepreneur. He appointed Belinda Earl Chief Executive a year later.
Figure 5.
1914
‘Jaeger London’ was launched featuring Erin O’Connor.
2005
‘Jaeger Black’ and their website was introduced.
2006
Jaeger London was shown at London Fashion 2008 Week in February. Celebrating its 125 anniversary, ’125 limited collec- 2009/10 tion’ launched alongside ‘Boutique by Jaeger’ Relaunches e-commerce site and see further expansion internationally. Asked to create uniform for Kensington Palace’s front of house team.
Figure 3.
2011
Figure 6.
Figure 7.
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Current Retail Portfolio. Jaeger have over 90 stores and concession in the UK along with delivering to the following countries: Saudi Arabia, Australia, Israel, Singapore, Austria, Italy, Bahrain, Japan, Slovak Republic, Jordan, Spain, Belgium, Kuwait, Sweden, Canada, Switzerland, China, Lebanon, Czech Republic, Lithuania, Turkey, Luxembourg, United Arab EmirDenmark, Finland, Mauritius, ates, Netherlands, United States of France, Norway, America, France, and United Kingdom Greece, Poland, (including Channel Hong Kong, Portugal, Ireland, Qatar, Islands Figure 8.
Figure 17. Figure 9.
Figure 13.
Jaeger has concessions in these department stores.
Figure 10.
Figure 11.
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Figure 18
Figure 19.
Figure 14.
Figure 15.
• Jaeger have both a facebook and twitter account. • They offer a loyalty card to their frequent shoppers who gain rewards every time they purchase.
Figure 16.
Figure 12.
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Figure 20.
Jaeger has 21 Outlet stores across the UK offering garments at a discounted price. 7
Key Performance Indicators.
Current Image.
• Jaeger has recently reported a slump in profits by two-thirds and a number of stores making a loss. • The business does not pay out any dividends therefore the profit has been put into reserves (Jaeger Accounts Document 2012). • The company has extended its £18.2 million bank facility with Lloyds Bank to June 2013 ( Telegraph 2012).
Turnover Cost Of Sales Gross Profit Admin Expenses Exceptional Items Other Operating Income Operating Profit Interest Receivable & Similar income Interest Payable & Similar Charges Profit on ordinary activities before taxation tax on profit on ordianry activites Total Profit for Financial Year Turnover for the year ending February 2011.
North America, 500,000
Rest of Europe, 3,784,000
United Kingdom, 82,702,000 Figure 22.
2011 £'000 2010 £'000 88,886 83,376 -36,320 -30,944 52,566 52,432 -50,974 -50,185 -794 n/a 1,103 712 1,901 2,959 366 130 -831 -858 1,436 2,231 n/a n/a 1,436 2,231 Turnover for the year ending February 2010.
Rest of Europe, 3,445,000
North America, 10,000
United Kingdom, 78,649,000 Figure 21.
These two pie charts show that the turnover in the UK, rest of Europe and North America has all grown however the profits have declined, partly down to the bad weather which occurred in December 2010. 8
Figure 23.
Figure 24.
Figure 25.
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• Jaeger’s current image is classy, smart and elegant. • As a higher-end brand, the stores convey this through the luxurious interior, fixtures and fittings. • Clothing is hung with even spacing and displayed on racks which allows the customer to see the garments from all angles.
Figure 32.
Figure 33.
Figure 31.
Figure 26.
Figure 27.
Figure 30.
Figure 28.
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Figure 29.
Figure 34.
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• Mannequins display outfits with accessories so that it enables customers to have a complete visual idea, therefore making them more likely to purchase. • Accessories are laid out in an inviting way to provoke a consume into believing they need them to enhance to their outfit. • Stores were calm with gentle music in the background
Figure 38. Figure 36.
Figure 39.
Figure 37.
Figure 35.
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Figure 40.
Figure 41.
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Branding. • Jaeger is a private brand with four own labels including Jaeger, Jaeger London, Jaeger Black and Boutique by Jaeger. These raise the profile of the retailer and add value for Jaeger’s customers. • The carrier bag is a highly visual symbol of a brand. Jaeger’s carrier bag is bold and clearly advertises the brand to potential customers as soon as a consumer leaves the store.
Figure 48.
• Swing tickets and brand labels in clothing follow the same design which continues the branding of Jaeger consistently.
Figure 49.
Figure 47.
• The fixtures differ in store concession stands. • This is because the retailer, in this case John Lewis, leases space within their store to Jaeger. To enable John Lewis to keep consistency within their stores, each concession have the same fixtures.
Figure 50.
Figure 42.
Figure 51.
Figure 43.
Figure 44.
Figure 52. Figure 45.
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Figure 46.
Figure 53.
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Themes, Stories & Concepts.
Trimmings & Details.
Figure 58.
Figure 54.
Figure 55.
Within Jaeger stores there are several noticeable stories and themes to each sub-brand.
This dress is simple in shape which is flattering to majority of figures. The ruffling around the neckline, gathering in the sleeve and ties at the cuff enhance the dress whilst still keeping it elegant.
Figure 59.
The embroidery on is the main detail on this soft cotton chambray blouse. This delicate and pretty floral needlework creates a cut out feature on the sleeves and front injecting a design to an otherwise basic item.
• Figure 23 shows a smart work wear collection from the Jaeger London range with each garment having matching items enabling the customer to create an entire look. • Figure 20 shows another story again from Jaeger London with more relaxed day wear. Key colours are lemon, navy, cornflour blue and white. A strong trans-seasonal range giving maximum use to the wearer • Figure 22 is from the younger ‘Boutique’ collection which has a youthful design and modern cut.
Figure 60.
Figure 56.
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Figure 57.
Buckle detail gold eyelets and edging to the buttons add sophistication and glamour to this stretch cotton pencil skirt. The wrap over effect also gives the garment an easy fit to a curvaceous body part.
Figure 61.
This cosy trench cardigan with revere collar has buttons and knitted detailing on the front ‘storm flap’ sections. Two front pockets, cape sleeves and belted at the waist, this item is both practical and flattering. 17
Product Categories.
Figure 63. Figure 62.
Figure 69.
Figure 70.
Jewellery
Knitwear
Blouses
Figure 73. Figure 64.
Figure 65.
Figure 66.
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Coats
Figure 67.
Dresses
Shoes
Trousers
Figure 71.
Skirts
Tops
Belts Figure 68.
Scarfs
Figure 72.
Jackets
Figure 74.
Shorts
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Key Shapes.
Figure 79.
Figure 75.
Sheath dress- slightly gathered at waistband with a line skirt falling just at knee, this dress is smart for work.
Flared hem and prom dress style- flattering to many shapes and creates the ultimate hourglass figure.
Collarless jackets- a chic style that exudes elegance and sophistication compliments a range of outfits.
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Wide leg trouser- balances out top heavy shapes can be worn both day and night.
Trench coat- a classic wardrobe staple, this coat is essential whether cropped and colourful or long and original.
Figure 76.
Figure 81.
Figure 77.
Long sleeved blouse- in a floaty fabric can be worn for both work and play.
Figure 80.
Figure 82.
Figure 78.
A-line skirts- perfect for summer they skim over hips and create an illusion of a smaller waist, great for pear shapes.
Pencil skirts- offering an easy way for a tailored and refined appearance, they make the most of a woman’s shape. 21
Existing Competitors.
New Competitors.
ON TREND STYLE
LOW PRICE
ON TREND STYLE
HIGH PRICE
CLASSIC STYLE Figure 83.
• The graph shows the stores and brands which Jaeger competes with at present. • Jaeger’s main rivals are Hobbs, Phase Eight, Whistles as they sell similar items and approximately the same price range.
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LOW PRICE
HIGH PRICE
CLASSIC STYLE Figure 84.
• The graph shows the stores and brands which Jaeger should aim to competes with. • The new competitors could include Reiss, Ted Baker but continue with Phase Eight because Jaeger has a strong ranges in their London and Black collections yet seem to aim garments at the 17-25 year old market but fail to sell garments to them as they have little marketing tools advertising this.
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Countries Of Origin.
Pricing Architecture.
Jeager clothing is manufactured in the following countries: • Portugal • Turkey • China • Hong Kong • France • Italy
Price Band Matrix for Jaeger Product Categories 2012 Product Category Dresses Blouses Tops Skirts & Shorts Trousers Jackets Figure 85.
Fabrics By Product Category. • Jaeger’s clothing is made from various compositions of fibres. • The main fibres are natural including: wool silk, cotton, flax, linen. Product Category
Fabric
Product Category
Dresses
• • • • • •
Cotton Silk Polyester Cotton/Polyamide Cotton/Silk Linen/Flax
Trousers
Blouses
• • •
Silk Cotton Linen/Flax
Tops
• • • •
Skirts
Jackets
Fabric • • • • • • • •
Wool Viscose Elastane Triacetate Polyester Linen/Flax Polyamide Cotton
Shorts
•
Cotton
Viscose Elastane Cotton Elastane
Coats
• • • • •
Linen/Flax Polyurethane Cotton Elastane Polyester
• • • • • • • • •
Cotton Wool Triacetate Polyester Viscose Elastane Acrylic Linen/Flax Polyamide
Knitwear
• • • • • •
Cotton Silk Wool Polyester Metal Fibre Cashmere
• • • • • • •
Accessories Triacetate Polyester Viscose Wool Elastane Cotton
• • • • • • •
Leather Cotton Silk Elasttane Brass Zinc Polyurethane
Coats Knitwear Shoes & Accessories Price£ 30
60
Entry Price Median Price Point Exit Price
90
120
150
180
210
240
270
300 Figure 86.
Average Lowest Price Point Average Highest Price Point
Figure 87.
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Customer Profile.
Assortment. 2
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3 1 3 3 2 1 2 A 3 1 2 B 2 1 3 C 1 2 3 D 1 E 2 F 1 Figure 88.
• Jaeger can be classed as holding broad and shallow amount of stock as they have a good choice of styles and options however there is a small selection of colours, fabrics and sizes. • Most lines are larger in breadth than depth. This is a possible area which jaeger are failing at due to the significant amount of sale items they have at any one time.
Figure 89.
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Figure 90.
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Psychographic Profile Graph.
SWOT Analysis. Strengths
Weaknesses
• Established in 1884, it is an iconic British brand with strong heritage
• Many potential customers believe that the goods are overpriced
• Reputable for their luxurious yarns and natural fibres
• There was a fall in profits by two-thirds from the year ending February 2010 to February 2011 (Jaeger Accounts Document 2012). • Too much focus on ‘boutique’ range in-store
BARGAIN HUNTERS
LATE FEEDERS
LATE ADOPTERS
EARLY ADOPTERS
INNOVATORS
• Retail prices match the quality of the garments • Great quality products that are long lasting • Have celebrity followers • Garments were featured in James Bond film by Dame Judy Dench
LAUNCH
4%
20%
39%
30%
7%
WITHDRAWAL
My Customer Profile
• Of the people questioned in survey, only one was close to actual age of Jaeger therefore the business doesn’t make enough emphasis on its heritage and age
• Celebrated it 125th anniversary in 2009 with a publication of a book documenting its century and a quarter in business
Opportunities
Threats
• Extending and reducing the retail prices of the ‘Boutique’ collection for the 17-25 year age range could bring a younger market into the store
• Risks to Jaeger include possible financial issues for example exchange, credit, liquidity and interest rate risk. The business put into place financial risk management to minimise these (Jaeger Accounts Document 2012).
Figure 91.
This graph shows the average Jaeger customer falls into the ‘Late Adopters’ category on a psychographic profile graph.
• Focusing on the expansion worldwide will improve jaeger’s position • Develop the flow of collections around the store
• Hobbs are a close competitor and are expanding at a successful rate possibly overtaking Jaeger. • As Jaeger’s profits have slumped this could repeat itself, consequently
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Rationale. Jaeger is a company with a great amount of history. The brand has been strong throughout its years, however recently it has lost its direction and needs to re-think how the business is branded and marketed. The main reason why Jaeger need to create a fresh look and feel is because their product lines are strong in themselves, yet, they are not marketed to the correct target audience. For example the ‘Boutique’ collection is for a young market. yet the retail prices do not reflect this in addition to the fact that very few people have knowledge that Jaeger do such a range.This contrasts to the intial thoughts that jaeger is a brand for the more mature lady with sophisticated garments in luxury fabrics and higher price points than the majority of the high street. If Jaeger were to define their main target market it would; improve their understanding of their customer, aid them financially as capital would be unecessarily spent on advertising to the wrong age group and help the business to reinforce their history and heritage as a unique selling point to new consumers. The ways in which Jaeger should re-brand is by: • Create a more streamline business • Focus more on one age range • Keep it simple • Stick with the elegant and classy look • Reinforce the British Heritage of the brand • Go back to using luxurious yarns and natural fibres • More marketing yet not to make it a brand which everyone has to keep exclusivity.
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Figure 92.
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85. http://www.climate-zone.com/img/ world.gif 86. Graph created in Adobe Illustrator 3.3.2012 87. Graph created in Adobe Illustrator 3.3.2012 88. Graph created in Adobe Illustrator 3.3.2012 using images from www. jaeger.co.uk
91. Graph created in Adobe Illustrator 3.3.2012
89. Assortment created in Adobe Illustrator 3.3.2012 90. Own Picture taken 12.2.2012 Customer profile created in Photoshop 3.3.2012 using: • James Morrison http://3. bp.blogspot.com/_T2vKEh_ fZwc/ TO_gIrqmgAI/AAAAAAAAAPA/ EUYHhy3GvHs/ • 600/%255BAllCDCovers%255D_ jamesm _ orrison_youm _ ake_it_real2_ 008_retailc_ d-front.jpg Wine glass http://2.bp.blogspot.com/7ByHaL2CGas/ToF2UJONcJI/ AAAAAAAARrU/Fk56ENtZfQE/ s1600/cheap-wine-glasses-11. • •
•
•
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jpgG Skiing http://www.ski-austria.com/ images/indeximg1.jpg Dog http://www.facebook.com/ media/set/?set=a.10150183142 087475.308483.538352474&ty pe=3#!/photo.php?fbid=1015025 8675707475&set=a.10150183142 087475.308483.538352474&typ e=3&theatert Lipstick http://www.boots.com/ en/CHANEL-ROUGE-ALLUREVELVET-Luminous-Matte-Lip-Colour_1234412/ iPad http://c0588112.cdn. cloudfiles.rackspacecloud.com/ Reeder%20for%20iPad%20-%20
Landscape.png • iPhone http://www.hitechreview. com/uploads/2010/06/iphone4_ hero.jpg • Chicago http://hazeldinecoltas.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2009/04/dipc_ hicago_leaf. jpg • Diary http://everystockphoto. s3.amazonaws.com/plannerb_ inder_ ring_261350_l.jpg • App http://a2.mzstatic.com/us/ r1000/062/Purple/f6/cf/c9/mzl. lvojzlje.1024x1024-65.jpg
92. http://www.jaeger.co.uk/JaegerB_ lack
References. Posner, Harriet (2011). Marketing Fashion. Laurence King Publishing pages 39,98, 99,133
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