beginner polymer clay
Add a lustrous finish to translucent color blends to give polymer clay the look of glass. by Nancy Pollack
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olorful slices of extruded clay can be layered on any bead shape to add pattern and visual interest. By including slices of translucent clay, these patterns achieve more visual depth. For a subtle effect, combine closely related colors; for more
contrast, mix complementary colors. You can find inspiration by looking at the color palettes and patterns in lampworked glass. To make colorful clay slices like the ones in this project, a hand-crank pasta machine and a clay extruder are well worth the investment. Instead of using the large, triggerstyle extruder shown with the project, you can purchase a smaller, twist-action version.
Bull’s-eye-patterned beads are buffed and sealed to mimic lampworked glass.
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opaque clay
well
alcohol-based ink
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conditioned Using a pasta machine to condition clay is an efficient and effective method for making pliable sheets of clay that are free from air bubbles. Follow the steps below for easy clay conditioning.
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• Roll the clay into a ball, flatten it, and roll it into a snake. Fold the snake in half, and twist it. • Flatten the twist into a slab, and run it through the pasta machine on the thickest setting. • Fold the sheet of clay in half, and run it through the pasta machine again, fold-side first. Continue to fold and run the clay through the pasta machine at progressively thinner settings for approximately ten passes. • After you’ve conditioned a color, clean the pasta machine’s rollers by running a folded baby wipe or paper towel through the machine. This step removes excess clay stuck to the rollers and prevents unwanted color contamination. Another way to minimize color contamination is to condition the light colors first and then progress to darker colors.
Condition the polymer clay. Separately condition each clay color, starting with the translucent and progressing to the white, the pearl, and the opaque colors. For tips on using a pasta machine to condition clay, see “Well Conditioned,” above. Set the sheet of pearl aside. Divide the translucent clay. Use a tissue blade to cut the sheet of
translucent clay in half, and set one half aside to use in steps 3 and 7. Cut the remaining half-sheet into four equal-sized sheets. [1–2] Make colored translucent sheets. To color translucent sheets so that they complement your opaque colors, add a small amount of opaque clay to one of the translucent sheets [1], and run it through the pasta machine. You can also add color with alcohol-based inks. Add a few drops
of ink to a translucent sheet [2], and then allow it to dry before running it through the pasta machine to achieve a solid translucent color. Prepare the colored translucent sheets. Cut each colored translucent sheet into two or three equalsized sheets. Then, run the sheets through the pasta machine, using various settings to make them various thicknesses. [3] Cut clay disks. Select a circle cutter with a diameter that is slightly smaller than the diameter of the clay extruder’s barrel. Using the circle cutter, cut disks from the opaque and colored translucent sheets, the reserved translucent half-sheet, and the white sheet. [4] Stack the disks to create a variegated pattern. Stack the disks, starting with a white disk. Randomly add a few opaque and colored translucent disks, and end with a translucent disk. Repeat until you’ve used all the disks.
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8 [5] Extrude the stack. Insert the stack into the barrel of a clay extruder. Extrude the clay according to the manufacturer’s instructions. This will create a compressed rope that reveals bull’s-eye patterns when it’s cut crosswise.
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9 remaining translucent clay through the pasta machine on the second thinnest setting, and then layer the translucent clay over the bead [7]. Trim the excess translucent clay, and smooth the edges.
Form a bead with scrap clay. Roll some scrap clay into a ball that is approximately 3 ⁄8 in. (9.5mm) smaller in diameter than the diameter you’ve chosen for the finished bead.
[8] Cut the extruded clay. Use a tissue blade to cut the extruded clay into approximately ½-in. (13mm) pieces to reveal the bull’s-eye patterns. Using a tissue blade, cut very thin slices from the pieces.
[6–7] Cover the bead with pearl and translucent clay. Run the conditioned pearl clay through the pasta machine on the third thinnest setting. Wrap the pearl clay around the bead [6], trim the excess pearl clay, and smooth the edges. Run the
[9] Add the bull’s-eye slices to the bead, and shape it. Arrange a few of the slices on the bead, and roll the bead smooth [9]. Continue to add slices until you have a pattern you like. Smooth the bead and roll it into a ball or any other shape.
10 [10] Make a hole in the bead, and bake it. With one hand, place the tip of a needle tool against the bead where you want to make a hole. Place the index finger of your other hand where you estimate the needle tool will poke through the clay [10]. Use a twisting motion with as little pressure as possible to push the needle tool through the clay. Once the tip of the needle tool pokes a tiny hole through the bead, stop pushing, and gently remove the tool. Insert the needle tool into the tiny exit hole, and gently twist the needle tool through the bead. Remove the tool, and bake the bead according to the clay manufacturer’s instructions.
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Process photos by Nancy Pollack.
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[12–13] Buff the bead. Use a soft cloth to buff the bead by hand. Or, use a buffing machine with a stitched cloth buff [12]. Another option is to use a Dremel tool or flex shaft with a buff on a screw mandrel attachment. Regardless of the method you use, use light pressure for a short amount of time to prevent the clay from being overheated or damaged. The buffed bead will have a slight sheen [13].
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Sealer: water-based polyurethane Bamboo skewer Flat-tip paintbrush
*Dedicated to nonfood use.
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[11] Sand the bead. Using 320-grit wet/dry sandpaper, sand the bead under water. Further refine the surface by using progressively finer grits of sandpaper.
Polymer clay: ■ 4 oz. (112g), translucent ■ 2 oz. (56g), white ■ 2 oz. (56g), pearl ■ 2 oz. (56g) each, three opaque colors Alcohol-based inks (optional)
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Pasta machine* Nonstick work surface Baby wipes or paper towels Tissue blade Circle cutter Clay extruder Needle tool Oven* Sandpaper, wet/dry: 320, 400, 600 grit Finishing items (choose from): ■ Soft cloth ■ Buffing machine and stitched cloth buff ■ Dremel tool or flex shaft with buffing attachment
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Jacquard Piñata Colors, alcohol-based inks (Sax Arts & Crafts, 800.558.6696, saxarts .com) Clay extruder and tools (polymerclayexpress.com), Makin’s clay extruder (theclaystore.com) Varathane Diamond Wood finish (local hardware stores or flecto.com)
Contact Nancy Pollack through her Web site at npolyclay.home .comcast.net.
Seal the bead. Adding a coat or two of water-based polyurethane sealer to the bead will give it a shiny, glasslike surface. Place the bead on a bamboo skewer, and use a flat-tip paintbrush to apply a coat of sealer. Allow the sealer to dry completely, and then add a second coat.
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