Time Out BA N21

AR $100

FOTO RUTA

www.timeout.com

Contents

Time Out Buenos Aires Published by Malacara Publishing SA Pasaje Soria 5012, 1a C1414BLD Buenos Aires +54 11 4831 1539 info@timeoutba.com

Published under the authority of and in collaboration with Time Out International Ltd London UK. The name and logo of Time Out are used under license from Time Out Group Ltd, 251 Tottenham Court Road, London W1T 7AB, UK +44 (0)20 7813 3000 www.timeout.com © Copyright Time Out Group Ltd 2015 Time Out Buenos Aires Team Director Mark Rebindaine Director Gonzalo Gil Editor Emily Jensen – editor@timeoutba.com Deputy Editor Rosie Hilder Food and Drink Editor Allie Lazar Wine Editor Sorrel Moseley-Williams Proofreader Emma Clifton Fact-checker/Intern Jenna Fuentes Graphic designer Sofía Iturbe Distribution Mau Banach – mau@timeoutba.com Administration Mau Banach – mau@timeoutba.com Time Out Group Founder Tony Elliott Chief Financial Officer Matt White Chief Marketing Officer Sarah Bartlett Chief Technical Officer Dave Cook International Managing Director David Woodley Global Editor-in-Chief Marcus Webb Art Director, Brand Anthony Huggins International Account Manager Tim Webb Contributors Jenna Fuentes, Benjamin Harris, Rosie Hilder, Orlando Jenkinson, Emily Jensen, Allie Lazar, Sophie Lloyd, Sorrel Moseley-Williams, Sorcha O’Higgins, Sophie Parker, Mark Rebindaine.

Photography Diego Quiroga.

Contributing Photographers Mauro Dann, Emily Anne Epstein, Emily Jensen, Maria Laffitte Lautaro Mendez, Ezequiel Poccard, Janina Terreno, Mark Vam der Aa. Additional Images Aldo’s Vinoteca y Restorán, Alo’s, Anselmo, Apuesto, Il Ballo del Mattone, Bárbaro Bar, The Brick Hotel, Ciudad Cultural Konex, Club One, Comité, Crizia, Cubreme, Dadá, Del Toro, Delicias de Alicia, , Dinamarca, Ebylife, Elementos Argentinos, Fiesta Jolie, Foto Ruta, Fukuro Noodle Bar, Full City Coffee House, Graffitibaires, graffitimundo, Gran Dabbang, The Haig, Hierbabuena, Home Hotel, Hotel Clásico, Hotel Panamericano, Hotel Pulitzer, Humans of Buenos Aires, Janio, Jessica Kessel, K&S Films, Ministerio de Cultura CGBA, Misscasiopea, Mite, Museo Participativo de Ciencias, Nuss Hotel, Oleana, On Tap, Osaka, Paladar, Palo Santo, Paraje Arévalo, Puerto La Pista, Roux, Salmón Tienda, Terrazas al Mar, Villa Ocampo, Vincent, Yeite.

Features

Out and about

6 City beat

19 Food & Drink

The word on the street in BA

8 Dates for your diary

The best festivals and events

10 Cristina’s curtain call

A look at CFK’s presidency

12 BA from above See the city from a new perspective

14 Expat entrepreneurs

Foreigners share their insights on starting a business in BA

OVER TO YOU We’d love to read your comments on this issue, or your thoughts on places we should consider including in the next one.

Drop us a line at editor@timeoutba.com

20 Cafés 25 Restaurants 70 Food and drink index

71 Nightlife

72 Bars 86 Clubs 91 Nightlife index

93 Shopping

94 Shopping 109 Health and beauty 110 Markets 110 Shopping index

111 Arts & Leisure

112 Around town 118 Museums 121 Art 124 Film and media 125 Fitness and sports 127 Gay and lesbian

Illustrations Gustavo Guevara.

Cover Photo Jocelyn Mandryk Front Cover Thanks to the staff at Olsen for their help and cooperation

129 Music 131 Performing arts 133 Tango

135 Where to Stay 136 Hotels 146 Apart-hotels 147 Hostels 148 Telos (love hotels) 148 Hotels index

149 Getting Away

150 Summer getaways 152 Day trips 153 Estancias

155 Resources

156 Useful information 157 Sticking around 158 City map 160 Transport and Subte map

©Copyright Time Out Group Ltd 2015 While every effort and care has been made to ensure the accuracy of the information contained in this publication, the publisher cannot accept responsibility for any errors it may contain.

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, without prior permission of Time Out. ISSN 9771851562015 00021

Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015/16 1

MARC VAM DER AA

Follow me Time Out’s picks for who to follow on Instagram Humans of Buenos Aires @humansofba

City Beat

As you’ve probably guessed, Humans of BA’s candid portraits capture the daily life of the city’s residents.

Lautaro Mendez @lautaro1989

Porteños contemplate their next head of state

What would you do if you were the president of Argentina?

Photographer Lautaro Mendez captures dramatic contrasts in lighting and shadows on BA’s streets.

Graffitibaires @graffitibaires

As Argentina welcomes a new president, Time Out asks locals what they would do if they had the top job I wouldn’t allow any street, building or bank note to be named after an Argentinian politician who has lived in the last 50 years.

Silvia, 62, language course coordinator I would ban the unnecessary use of car horns.

Nico, 30, musician

I’d get Tom Waits to play a free concert in the Plaza de Mayo.

José, 33, communication consultant I would amend migration laws to prevent illegal immigration and get more serious as a country.

Sebastián, 38, systems engineer I’d legalise abortion and decriminalise drug consumption.

Luis, 33, administrator I’d shut up. I think Argentinians would welcome a period of silence from their head of state. I’d spend this time painting the Casa Rosada a camper shade of pink, simultaneously

I would start nutrition classes in schools and provide subsidies on healthy foods, to prevent problems such as obesity and malnutrition.

Andrés, 32, editor I would change the prison sentence for some crimes, as I think a lot of criminals are not charged properly or fairly, especially when they commit more serious crimes.

Augusto, 15, student I would change the situation for indigenous people and recognise their land and their rights.

Marlene, 24, student I would install urban gardens like they have in other countries and add art to the streets – pieces that people could interact with.

Giovanna, 23, industrial designer

collect and transport grain, which is the basis of the Argentinian economy.

If the roads were in good condition, there would also be fewer accidents.

Tomás, 17, student I would pay people to lurk in the shadows and identify dog owners who don’t scoop their pet’s poop. They would be given machines to suck up the offensive stools, then follow the guilty party home and blow the smelly excrement through their letter box.

Kris, 48, TV producer

My Beautiful Air @mybeautifulair

I would make every person contribute to the reconstruction of the national railway plan. We have a huge, beautiful country that more foreigners get to see than people who actually live here, due to the cost of transportation. It would also help Argentinians understand that not all of society is like Buenos Aires.

Cintia, 27, fashion designer

I would restore democracy.

Uriel, 38, financial manager

I’d modernise the education system by emphasising humanist topics, encouraging more free play and integrating science and philosophy.

Alejandra, 54, caterer

I would improve all the roads in the country, as they are the only way to

I’d sell the country to the English.

Anonymous

6 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015/16

Andy Klingelfuss, aka Street Art Hunter, roams the streets of BA capturing striking graffiti murals, which often serve as a commentary on porteño culture.

@MISSCASIOPEA

I would pass a law that prohibits government propaganda during football matches.

Silvia, 44, architect

burnishing my LGBTQ-friendly and working class hero credentials.

Matt, 40, writer

My Beautiful Air reposts photos from other Instagrammers of all the people, places and things that make Buenos Aires so beautiful.

February

Torneo Final Track down tickets to see Boca Juniors, River Plate, or your team of choice at this local football tournament, which brings the regular Division One season to an end.

Feb-May. Various locations (www.afa. org.ar).

Dates for your diary

Argentina Open Catch a clay-court match on a sunny afternoon in Palermo at the year’s most important event for Argentinian tennis fans.

Feb 6-14. Buenos Aires Lawn Tennis Club, Olleros 1510 (www.argentina openatp.com).

Chinese New Year Bid farewell to the year of the sheep and welcome in the monkey with a colourful day of food and fireworks in Belgrano’s recently revamped Barrio Chino (Chinatown).

Feb 8. Along Arribeños 2000-2200.

Dancers at Ciudanza impress the crowds at the Usina del Arte (see p132)

What’s on when Time Out’s pick of the best events to see and be seen at, up to April 2016

November

Fuerza Bruta To celebrate its ten year anniversary, this postmodern theatre troupe will be touring 50 cities. Fortunately, the international tour will include multiple showings in Fuerza Bruta’s hometown, Buenos Aires.

From Nov (check website for details).

Centro Cultural Recoleta, Junín 1930 (www.fuerzabruta.com.ar).

Buenos Aires Jazz Catch nightly jam sessions as international and local jazz musicians take over town.

Nov 10-15. Various locations (www. buenosairesjazz.gob.ar).

January

Ultra Music Festival Big name DJs like Nicolas Jaar and Monika Kruse spin electronic, dubstep and trance while crowds dance for hours.

Late Feb. Costanera Sur (www. ultrabuenosaires.com).

Buenos Aires Fashion Week The carpet rolls out for high-style BA as the winter collections of top local designers grace the catwalk.

Late Feb. La Rural, Avenida Santa Fe 4201 (www.bafweek.com.ar).

March

Creamfields International and local DJs hit the decks for the 15th anniversary edition of this dance music festival.

Nov 14. Costanera Sur (www. creamfieldsba.com).

Carnaval del País Argentina’s answer to Brazilian carnival takes place in Gualeguaychú in the province of Entre Ríos (3.5 hours from Retiro). Book a hotel room well in advance, or plan to stay up all night and catch up on sleep when you get home.

Every Sat, Jan 9-Feb 27.

Gualeguaychú (www.carnaval argentina.com.ar).

Festival Internacional de Tango Queer Same-sex dancing partners have a ball at this week-long international queer tango festival.

Nov 16-22. Various locations (www. festivaltangoqueer.com.ar).

Verano en la Ciudad Over 300 free events, from open-air rock concerts to outdoor milongas, distract from the city’s summer heat.

Jan-Feb. Various locations (www. festivales.gob.ar).

Marcha del Orgullo Boys and girls (and everyone in between) come out to play at BA’s annual gay pride parade. Serious partying follows in the city’s most debauched nightclubs.

Nov 7. Plaza de Mayo (www. marchadelorgullo.org.ar).

Campeonato Argentino Abierto de Polo Cheer on men in white trousers at BA’s biggest polo competition; stay on afterwards for sporting gossip, people watching and champagne.

Nov 21-Dec 12. Campo Argentino de Polo, Avenida del Libertador y Dorrego (www.aapolo.com).

Día de la Tradición A trip to the small country town of San Antonio de Areco (see p152) for this annual festival of gaucho tradition is a must for all those into horses, folklore, steak or rugged Argentinian cowboys.

Nov 7-8. San Antonio de Areco.

La Noche de los Libros Crowds throng literary artery Avenida Corrientes one night a year as bookstores and cafés stay open late, literary events are staged and prices are slashed.

Late Nov. Avenida Corrientes, entre Callao y Talcahuano.

Carnaval Porteño Percussion bands (murgas) perform in BAFICI the streets and open spaces every This independent film festival shows weekend. Join works from in the dancing Argentina, Latin and foam America and all spraying at over the world celebrations and regularly held throughout packs out Nov 27 Day of Buenos Aires. cinemas. Many National Sove Dec 8 Day of re Every Sat and showings are the Immaculat ignty e Conception Sun, Jan free, but be sure De c 25 Christmas 23-Feb 28. to get tickets in Ja n 1 New Year’s Da advance.

Various y Feb 8-9 Carnav Apr 13-24. locations al Mar 24 Day of Various locations (www.carnaval Re m em br ance for Truth and Ju (www.festivales. argentina. stice M ar 25 Good Fr gob.ar). com.ar).

Apr 2 Veterans iday ’ Day

Gran Premio Nacional The huge stadium smack in the middle of Palermo fits 100,000 people, and fills up every year for this major horse racing event.

Nov 7. Hipódromo Argentina de Palermo, Avenida del Libertador 4101 (www.palermo.com.ar).

8 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015/16

Ciudanza Groups of dancers make the urban landscape their stage in parks, plazas and other public spaces across the city.

Early Mar. Various locations (www. ciudanza.gob.ar).

Lollapallooza Big names in rock, pop and indie get the crowd moving at San Isidro’s hippodrome. Headliners include Florence and the Machine, Eminem and Mumford & Sons.

Mar 18-19. Hipódromo de San Isidro (www.lollapaloozaar.com).

April

Public holid ays

CRISTINA’S CURTAIN CALL? As Cristina Fernández de Kirchner prepares to leave office in December 2015, Orlando Jenkinson reflects on the the charismatic and controversial president.

Illustration by Gustavo Guevara

‘

We have political will and the courage to face whatever we have to face,’ said Cristina Fernández de Kirchner in her final speech to congress in March 2015. And seeing as Cristina, as she is often referred to locally, has faced a multitude of crises and scandals during her eight-year presidency, it’s fortunate that she’s had willpower in buckets from an early age.

Argentina’s outgoing president was born and raised in La Plata, a city near the capital known as a hotbed of student activism. Cristina enrolled to study law at the local university with little idea that she’d soon fall for Néstor Kirchner and eventually accompany him to the presidency as first lady in 2003, before succeeding him four years later. At university, she immersed herself in campus politics.

‘She was the same as now’, Olga Wornat, a biographer of the president who knew her during this time of fiery student union debates, told Reuters in 2012. ‘She argued things to the death. She argued with her own party bosses. She detested anyone who tried to impose anything on her.’

Now in her sixties, Cristina has lost little of her passion. Indeed, in the viper’s nest of Argentinian politics, it has bloomed anew. Her legacy, whatever you may think of her, contains some admirable achievements. And while they sit alongside a plethora of scandal, claims of corruption, and mishaps, they form the cornerstone of an ultimately complex legacy – in part inherited from Néstor, but equally forged afresh by her own ‘political will.’

THE GOOD The remarkable reduction in Argentina’s poverty rate (though it remains a serious problem) is surely one of Cristina’s biggest accomplishments.

Continuing in the wake of her husband, she maintained social programmes like the Universal Child Credit, and helped dramatically reduce poverty in Argentina far below the 50-60 percent it reached after the country’s 2001 financial crisis.

Putting many of the criminals of the 1976-83 dictatorship on trial was another welcome bridge between Kirchners I and II, something Cristina and her late husband pursued despite obstinate conservative opposition. Then there’s the underappreciated fact that she’s Argentina’s first elected female president, and won by huge margins in both 2007 and 2011 – no mean feat in a country notorious for its machismo culture. Her bravery in securing marriage equality in 2010, was similarly impressive, and made Catholic Argentina the first country in Latin America and the tenth worldwide to legalise same-sex marriage.

Another courageous move was Cristina’s stand against the ‘vulture funds’ seeking extortionate returns on government bonds that they purchased after the 2001 debt crisis. These achievements have won her praise from international human rights groups, as well as academic heavyweights such as

Noam Chomsky and Nobel Prize-winning economist Joseph Stiglitz.

THE BAD With the first whiff of scandal occurring a few months before her election in 2007, Cristina is no stranger to controversy. Suspicions of corruption began when a Venezuelan businessman claiming ties to Hugo Chávez was apprehended at Argentinian customs with almost US$800,000 stashed in a briefcase. Speculators suggested Chávez was trying to finance Cristina’s campaign in an attempt to swing the election in favour of his pal Néstor’s would-be successor. Although the maletinazo scandal ultimately became bogged down in legal bureaucracy and remains unresolved, it set a tone for Cristina’s presidency.

Subsequent controversies range from the aborted cap on beef exports (don’t mess with the farmer’s union and their fleets of tractors), the appointment of a dictatorship-era suspected repressor as head of the army in 2013, to a questionable ballooning of Cristina’s personal wealth (up 15 percent in 2013 alone, to US$6.6m, according to the Financial Times). But it was the untimely and shocking death of prosecutor Alberto Nisman in January 2015, just 24 hours before he was scheduled to accuse Cristina of diplomatic deviancy in front of congress, that caused the biggest media storm.

While the jury remains out on at least two of these cases, Cristina’s left-field choice of selfproclaimed ‘rockstar’ Amado Boudou for Vice President in 2011, proved to be a particularly poor decision, and not just because of Boudou’s cringe-worthy insistence on clutching his guitar at rallies. His apparent involvement in a huge money-laundering scheme, for which he’s still under investigation, emerged in 2014, and has proved a stain almost impossible to remove for team Cristina.

Then again, Boudou’s tactical withdrawal from the front line media barrage and a sanzaru monkey approach from the government (see no corruption, hear no corruption, speak no corruption) helped deflect some of the attention away from the affair, for a time at least – a pirouette of political spin as artful as it was slimy.

AND THE UGLY The Argentinian presidency isn’t what it used to be.

Balcony addresses are, according to the Peronist playbook at least, as much a part of the top job as ever. But now, a tech-savvy know-how (or at least a hidden team of social media gurus) is fast becoming as important as the old-school fire and brimstone speeches Cristina has regularly delivered throughout her presidency (often for hours on end) on official state media cadena nacional. What’s more, any offhand comment or throwaway line is likely to be picked up by either a bedroom blogger or a news anchor, something Cristina has discovered

10 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015/16

during her tenure.

A most spectacular example comes from Cristina’s Twitter account.

While on a vital trade mission to China, she switched ‘r’ for ‘l’ in a tweet mocking her hosts’ accents, saying, ‘Did they only come for the lice and petloleum?’ This bizarre slip of casual racism was tactfully ignored by the Chinese, but not by the international media or her almost-four-million Twitter followers (she’s the third most-followed leader on the continent according to www.twiplomacy.com).

The now infamous Beijing tweet was by no means a one-off, and was preceded by a host of ill-advised sound bites, ranging from Cristina labelling diabetes a ‘rich person’s disease’, to confessing she didn’t even bother watching one minute of Argentina’s 2014 World Cup heroics.

Cristina’s many gaffes are too numerous to list here, but her address to meat industrialists in 2010 deserves special mention: ‘The consumption of pork improves sexual activity. Besides, I think it’s much more satisfying to eat barbecued pork than it is to take Viagra. Let me tell you, I’m crazy about pork.’

POST-PINK HOUSE Ex-presidents are a rare species in Argentina. Many left the country in tatters, and historically were either forced into exile or imprisoned, á la former dictator Videla. Others, like Néstor, died soon after their terms ended. The precedent Cristina faces is novel in this sense. But as exhausted as she is likely to be after eight years of a truly relentless job, it’s hard to imagine Cristina simply taking her curtain call and exiting stage left. And while a two-term limit prevents her from standing again in 2015, non-consecutive third terms are allowed. In the meantime, with Cristina’s son Máximo on the verge of starting his formal political career and her vision for the country under threat from dissident Peronists (Sergio Massa) and neoliberals (Mauricio Macri), she seems unlikely to fade into the background. She certainly won’t be closing her Twitter account anytime soon.

Plaza G端emes

BUeNOs aIRes from

BOsQUes De PaleRmO

PaleRmO CHICO

Photography by Foto Ruta Foto Ruta is a photo experience company founded in Buenos Aires that helps visitors explore the city creatively, through the medium of photography (www.foto-ruta.com).

la BOmBONeRa

ReTIRO

Plaza saN maRTÍN

BelGRaNO R

PaNameRICaNO HOTel sPa

la BOCa

Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015/16 21

Argentinians would be our clientele. We have probably 80 percent Argentinian clients now, which is exactly what we wanted. We wanted to introduce New Orleans cuisine to Buenos Aires.

LIZA PUGLIA Owner and chef of NOLA Gastropub Hometown New Orleans, USA

How did you end up in Buenos Aires? I was living in New York before and I wanted to get out and get some fresh air. I met an Argentinian, Francisco, while backpacking and when I ended my trip in Buenos Aires, I couldn’t believe the amount of business opportunities there were. I’ve always felt that in Buenos Aires I would be a bigger fish in a small sea, whereas if I were in the States, I’d be the smallest in the biggest.

How did you break into the local restaurant scene? The pop-up restaurant is what started getting my name out there. That went on for almost a year, a weekly pop-up. There was a lot of compromise, sacrifice, and that’s really hard when you want to control everything. Luckily my boyfriend has a beautiful house here that allowed us to do a puerta cerrada.

Why did you decide to open the gastropub?

The low season is low with puerta cerradas. There are three or four months where there’s very little request. So we toyed around with the idea of something that would be open to the public, where

Was it difficult to get Argentinians to try Cajun cuisine? When we were doing the puerta cerrada we had a fried chicken and beer night that went down very well with the locals. So because they were responding well to fried chicken as well as other types of rustic southern food, we weren’t so intimidated by the idea of serving Cajun food to Argentinians. And I mean it’s fried chicken how can you not like it? The hardest factor is just that people don’t know what Cajun or Creole food is, so that can be a little misleading for them.

Have you had to adapt your recipes to local cuisine and ingredients? I’m not really a fan of that. Some locals do find our chicken spicy because we put pepper on it, but that’s never going to change. And we put the majority of our spice in condimentos on the side, so everyone can control their spice level. In New Orleans we use a lot of andouille, a smoked pork sausage used in gumbo, and I can’t get that here, but luckily the local chorizo colorado is a great substitute. And we’re all about utilising local ingredients, but not to the extent that it’s going to compromise the dish in a negative way.

Do you think porteños have opened up their palates? I think people are getting bored. And in no disrespectful way, I think porteños are followers when it comes to global trends, and they see what’s going on in other countries and they want to get on the same bandwagon.

14 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015/16

Why did you decide to feature craft beer? It’s funny because Argentina is a wine country, but the capital is all about beer drinking. And when it comes down to it, the majority of people are drinking Quilmes or Stella or Heineken, which are not that great beers. There are a lot of good craft beers being made in Argentina, especially in Patagonia, but it’s not very easy to find draught beer. Francisco’s always been a massive of fan of craft beer and so he started brewing. We really wanted to focus on what was missing in the city.

How do you manage Argentina's economic uncertainty? We keep our prices low and whenever ingredients are starting to increase in price, we look for a distributor that’s going to offer us a lower price. It’s really simple, but it’s also due to just having five things on the menu. We’d rather have five really good things than ten, twenty, thirty mediocre things.

Where would you like NOLA to be in five years?

I really like how things are now. We’ve been offered a lot in regards to opening up franchises, and we’re saying no to it all because we like keeping it small and intimate. And we know that when we start giving power to other people, greed’s going to come with that, as well as the chance of our product being served in a way we don’t want it to be. We have a NOLA community and that’s incredibly special, I wouldn’t trade that for anything.

How do you feel about the word expat? It has a nasty reputation. But I don’t know if it’s in Buenos Aires specifically, maybe because the majority of expats here are younger and just trying to live the student life still. But I much prefer foreigner.

writing a weekly news round up for The Argentina Independent and it became very popular.

ADRIAN BONO Founder and CEO of The Bubble Hometown Palma de Mallorca, Spain

When did you first come to Buenos Aires? My mum is Argentinian, so I spent my childhood going back and forth between Spain and Argentina, and then after living in the US and Europe for a while, I decided to finally settle in Buenos Aires in 2005. I had lived in BA back in 2001, but I still considered myself a visitor.

What were you doing before you settled here?

I was working as a ski instructor and ski technician in Colorado. It sounds so douchey, but it’s true. My first job was in politics, I was working for the Spanish government and became very disillusioned with everything I saw. And I just decided, I don’t want to do this anymore, so I started travelling and moving around.

Why did you start The Bubble? I ran into a lot of foreigners who’d been living here for a considerable amount of time, and didn’t even know the name of the president. I was talking to these two guys at a party once, and I thought: How do I make these guys read about the news? My goal was to help them become part of the society they’re living in. I started

What are the challenges of running an English-language site in Argentina? We are an Argentinian company, we’re a part of this culture, but a lot of people think we’re Americans trying to brainwash them. But the good thing is that we very quickly got a lot of Argentinian readers who get that we’re being humorous. We used to just write for expats, but now we write for everyone.

How do you manage the economic uncertainty here? I don’t think it really is that unstable, but being in an unstable environment you have to take into account so many variables. Argentinian professionals are so well regarded in the world, because you’re given so little to work with and still expected to be successful, that you become this sort of MacGyver of business. There’s a saying in Spanish, ‘lo atamos con alambre,’ which means, ‘we tie it with wire.’ If something doesn’t work, you don’t aim for the perfect way of solving it, you just tie it up with a wire, and that’ll hold.

Where would you like The Bubble to be in five years? We want The Bubble to become the number one source of information for people who speak English here in Argentina. Our goal is to expand all over Latin America – The Bubble Brazil, The Bubble Chile, The Bubble Mexico.

Would you ever put Spanish-language content on the Bubble? You’d have to be very careful about how you do it. Even though the site is in English, we target a Latin American audience, and even though most people speak Spanish in Latin

things that were more elaborate. And there are so many women that knit here, so it was very easy to find those artisans. Most of the artisans I work with are immigrant women from Bolivia and Peru.

LIZ GLEESON Owner of URSA Hometown Philadelphia, USA

What brought you to Buenos Aires? I had just graduated from art school, where I studied printmaking and ceramics. I didn’t plan on moving here, I just came to check it out. I always thought: I’ll just stay here until I feel like it’s time to move on, and I never really felt that way, so I just kept staying. After I gave birth to my first child, I was like, ‘I think I live here now.’

Why did you start URSA? Around 2010 I started playing around with making clothes. My boyfriend’s family has a textile factory and I was fascinated by the factory and everything behind it.

The textile industry here is backwards in a lot of ways. The garment industry is alive and well, but the more humane side of it is just completely forgotten. So many of the best materials and the best products are for export. There are really nice clothes made here, but they’re not made for this public, and I’ve always been so bothered by that.

How did you get into ethical, handmade fashion? I started out using a lot of reclaimed fabrics that I would source from factories and their deadstock. But then I really wanted to start doing

What are the challenges of selling ethical fashion in Argentina? There’s this general attitude that things made in Argentina aren’t better.

There are factories here where they’ll put a ‘Made in China’ tag because people think it’s better quality. Because it isn’t a really big thing here, trying to commercialise the products can be really difficult. People are kind of shocked by the price tag that comes along. I’m starting to sell more in the United States, and there it’s such a selling point that it’s made in Argentina.

Do you think ethically-made clothing will become more valued? In the food scene it’s totally changed, people want to know where their food comes from, there’s a lot more organic food available. In the best world, fashion will follow on the heels of the food scene. I think it will happen, it’s just a matter of how long it will take. It’s not just about buying a product; it’s about everything that goes into it, and taking that story with you when you buy something.

Where would you like URSA to be in five years?

I would like to expand to other parts of Latin America. I think it’d be great to work with other cultures and artisan traditions and put my own spin on that. And here, there’s a lot of work to be done on the sustainability side. I would love to be using 100 percent sustainable, renewable resources and producing a lot more, but still make everything by hand and maintain that close connection with the artisans.

America, they don’t all speak the same Spanish. So the kind of tone that works in Argentina would not work in Mexico. It’s a mistake to assume that just because everyone speaks Spanish, it’s all the same.

What would you like to see from the local media scene? I would love for the polarisation to go away. It’s like you’re living in two different countries, one says black, one says white, and you don’t know who to believe. I think that’s why a lot of people come to The Bubble. We like to explain the news.

What do you look for in a potential employee?

Personality is very important, and obviously they have to be good writers. I like younger people who care about the future of media, who understand the importance of social media.

Why do you think Argentina attracts so many foreigners, especially English-speakers? The Economist just selected Buenos Aires as the most liveable city in Latin America. A friend of mine likes to say that Buenos Aires has the perfect amount of chaos. It’s very much like Europe or the US, but at the same time there are cultural differences that make it attractive. Argentinians are more lax, social life is so important here, and that doesn’t happen everywhere.

Do you think foreigners will continue to flock to BA? I think Latin America will become a cultural powerhouse in the next ten years. It’s a peaceful region and, except for its economic problems, it’s still a great place to live. I think Latin America is becoming a hub, especially for younger people, who want to have a more relaxed lifestyle.

How do you manage economic uncertainty in Argentina? I have made the decision to base my company in Philadelphia as well as here. I have success selling things in shops here, and I feel like that’s good, but it’s not enough. Production costs are really high, it’d be so much easier and cheaper to make everything in Peru and send it right to the US and just bypass Argentina, but I have faith in it.

I do feel like it’s a big gamble a lot of the time, but it’s a passion project.

Why do you think Argentina attracts so many foreigners, especially English-speakers? It’s pleasantly unstructured here. I often feel like Buenos Aires is a place where people come to live out their dreams. I feel like I can do whatever I want, not because I have a lot of money, but because this is a do-it-yourself kind of place, for porteños as well. Everything I know about business I’ve learned along the way, and I really attribute that to the place I’m in. I think there’s something really appealing about that, and that will never cease to attract people to Buenos Aires.

What advice would you give to foreigners interested in living in Argentina? I think the best thing you can do is involve yourself with the local culture and integrate yourself. Without having people that can help me along when it comes to working and the legality of everything, it would be really confusing.

How do you feel about the word expat? I feel like it’s a word that needs to be reclaimed. It carries so much attitude and otherness. When I think of expats, I think of people who are grouping themselves together and creating their own bubble. I guess I prefer the word foreigner.

Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015/16 15

AYAZ SHAH AND LIYANLETH CARRILLO Owners of The Factory Hometowns Copenhagen, Denmark; La Victoria, Venezuela

How did you end up in Argentina? We were going to open an English academy in Venezuela, but then we got robbed in our home. The irony of it is that we lived in Caracas at first but moved to La Victoria because we thought it would be safer, and that’s where we got robbed. After that we wanted to stay in Latin America, but in a safer place.

Why did you decide to open a juice bar? When we were in Venezuela, we were talking about it, but there it didn’t seem like a good idea. When it comes to health awareness, Buenos Aires is maybe 15 years behind Europe, but Venezuela is 50 years behind. When you start something like that, if you hit the right time, then it’s really good. But if you’re five years too early, then you will be the pioneer that no one knows afterwards, the one that tried but didn’t succeed.

What was the porteños’ reaction to the juice bar? The first person that entered the store asked for orange juice and a tostado con jamón y queso, and we don’t sell orange juice, and we don’t sell ham. The client didn’t buy anything. We have a

What brought you to Buenos Aires?

I had just graduated art school, where I studied printmaking and ceramics. I didn’t come planning on moving here, I just came to check it out. I always thought, I’ll just stay here until I feel like it’s time to move on.

MARINA CHARLES After I gave birth to my first child, I was like ‘I think I live Co-Founder of graffitimundo Hometown here now.’Wirral, UK When did you first come to Buenos Aires? In June 2008. Before that, I worked in marketing and advertising in London.

Why did you decide to start graffitimundo? I wanted to share the stories behind the incredible Buenos Aires street art scene with as many people as possible.

What’s the easiest thing about starting a business in Argentina? The hardest? The easiest part is how open people are and how ready to help out, share their contacts and offer their support. The hardest part is the bureaucracy and red tape that all businesses in Argentina are forced to navigate.

Why do you feel street art is so prolific in Buenos Aires? Street art is part of the fabric of society in Buenos Aires. As a form of protest, as a means of communication, as a way of expressing beliefs, it has been used by the public and the state for over 100 years. Artists have been welcomed and supported by the community to work outdoors. Obviously there’s a distinction to be

sign that says ‘Juice, no sugar, no water’ and people would ask, ‘How in the world is it possible to make juice with no water and no sugar?’ But part of our concept is to make the juice in front of customers, so in that way we feel we have broadened people’s mindsets. And it’s deliberate that we don't sell orange juice, because if we had that, porteños would never have tried anything else.

How much of your clientele is Argentinian versus foreign? With the first store, it took more than half a year before the Argentinians started coming. And then we saw more and more coming, and we dared to open in Recoleta, which is a much more porteño neighbourhood. In the Palermo store, the majority are still foreigners, and in Recoleta it’s almost only porteños.

What was the biggest challenge in opening up the first juice bar? Getting all the equipment was a huge challenge. In the beginning, we were using a machine we bought here that was made in Brazil, and wasn’t cheap. But it was really bad quality; to make one juice took five minutes. Now we have an industrial machine that was handmade in France, which we bought in Denmark.

What surprised you most about opening a business in Argentina? There’s an unhealthy focus on the dollar in Latin America. In Palermo, the prices rise with the dollar, which for us is an unrealistic way to do business, because you’re in Argentina, you shouldn’t think about the dollar.

And what people expect to make in profit here is extremely high. So if people really knew our numbers, most would think, that’s a bad business, but that’s why we can keep the quality high.

made between graffiti writing and street art or muralism, but basically there is so much art because people have freedom to paint, and artists are inspired by this.

What are the challenges of bringing street art to a more traditional gallery space in Galería UNION? Representing the energy and dynamism of the artists on four walls can be challenging. We don’t necessarily bring street art inside though – we offer artists who have historically worked in an outdoor setting an opportunity to push themselves by working in a different environment.

Where would you like to see graffitimundo and Galería UNION in five years? We’d love for graffitimundo to be working with more Argentinian institutions, with educational bodies and with porteños, to inspire more people through the local street art movement. We also aim to have more Galería UNION artists represented internationally through Argentinian urban and contemporary art exhibitions and projects happening around the world.

What would you like to see in the local art scene in the future? I’d love to see more support for urban and contemporary artists from the art world, to allow them to further develop their talents, and more spaces open to them to paint inside and out. More support for younger artists who are just starting out would be great too.

Besides Buenos Aires, what other cities do you think have an exciting street art scene?

To be honest, we’re not massively excited by a lot of the street art out there. Due to the rise of street

16 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015/16

How have you been able to survive the economic uncertainty? The reason it’s not driving us crazy is because we’re Muslims, so we believe that our belongings are predetermined.

When we arrived the blue dollar was at 7.5 pesos to the dollar, and four months later it was 12. So at that point if you don’t believe your wealth is predetermined, you would probably be pretty bitter.

And here there is strife, but people spend. If you find a hole in the market, people will spend there.

Do you see yourselves having more stores?

We talk every day about what’s the next neighbourhood. That’s what we love about Buenos Aires, it’s a city that gives you so many opportunities. You have to really find the good deals, the opportunites, but there are so many people in this city, so if you find the right place, no matter the neighbourhood, it will work.

Would you like to expand the menu? We have juice, sandwiches and coffee. We like that we are specialised, we want to be famous for the juices.

And when it comes to the coffee, we feel like we’re part of this movement of serving good coffee in Buenos Aires. We always say that in Buenos Aires, the more pretty and classic a café looks, the worse the coffee tastes.

What advice would you give to foreigners who are thinking of starting a business here? If you are not from South America, or you do not have a partner from South America, we wouldn’t recommend it. The moment they ask where we’re from and we say ‘Denmark’, suddenly it’s a different price, but if we say ‘Venezuela’, they say, ‘Ok, we can work with the price.’

art festivals and online image sharing, street art has become increasingly globalised and generic.

We’re more interested in street art that plays an important role in society. In Middle Eastern countries such as Egypt, Palestine and Jordan, the work of street artists has taken on huge symbolism. In the current political climate of those countries, young people are painting on walls as a message of protest.

Do you expect more foreigners will continue to make their home in BA? As western cities become more homogenised and expensive, I think it will certainly encourage people looking for adventure to leave and settle somewhere friendly and creative like BA. What advice would you give to foreigners who are thinking of starting a business here? As someone else told me, seize the moment! Do as much as you can while you are full of the initial excitement and inspiration, set things up then – that’s when the magic happens.

What do you think London could learn from Buenos Aires, and vice versa? If London pinched a little of BA’s friendliness, I think there could be so many more interchanges between interesting people. Buenos Aires could do with being a little bit more reliable; not always, just some of the time.

How do you feel about the word expat? It’s a bit archaic and colonial, isn’t it? I think it’s a restrictive term that was more appropriate in the pre-digital age of foreign postings. Nowadays, so many people travel and live abroad through choice.

We’re living in an age of global citizenship.

Food & Drink

Photograph: Paraje Arévalo

Cafés

20

Restaurants

25

Food & Drink index

70

Cafés

THE BA COFFEE MAP

1. In Bocca al Lupo (Bonpland 1965, y Nicaragua) 2. LAB (Humboldt 1542, y Gorriti) 3. Lattente (Thames 1891, y Nicaragua) 4. Full City Coffee House (Thames 1535, y Pasaje Soria) 5. Felix Felicis & Co (Cabrera 5002, y Serrano) 6. Pain et Vin (Gorriti 5132, y Thames) 7. Ninina (Gorriti 4738, y Armenia) 8. Birkin Coffee Bar (República Árabe Siria 3061, y Cabello) 9. Señor Café (Cabrera 3517, y Mario Bravo) 10. Import Coffee Company (Libertad 1150, y Arenales) 11. Delicious (Laprida 2015, y Pacheco de Melo) 12. Barrio Cafetero (Florida 833, y Lavalle) 13. Negro Cueva de Café (Suipacha 637, y Viamonte) 14. Coffee Town (Bolívar 976, y Estados Unidos) 20 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015/16

BA has a strong café culture, but unfortunately with terrible coffee.

Time Out shows you where to find the city’s best brews

The basics

HOW TO USE THE LISTINGS This section presents our selection of the city’s best cafés. !denotes a place we particularly recommend.

NEW is for a café that has opened in the last six months or so.

Dsignals free Wi-Fi for customers.

The Centre Café Tortoni Argentina’s oldest café is everything you’d expect it to be: grand, charmingly ceremonial and full of vintage photos.

Since opening in 1858, this glorious place has played host to the depths of BA’s bohemia, the heights of its literati and the full political spectrum. Today, it’s teeming with camera-wielding tourists, but Café Tortoni is still a must.

Beyond the wooden tables and marble floor, a salon hosts tango shows every evening at 8pm (AR$260).

Avenida de Mayo 829, entre Piedras y Tacuarí (4342 4328/www.cafetortoni. com.ar). Subte A, Piedras/bus 2, 7, 8, 9, 10, 17, 64, 86, 111, 126, 129 146.

Open 8am-midnight daily. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map C4. D

NEW Los Dos Chinos Historic confitería Los Dos Chinos – which opened in 1862 and closed during 2001’s crisis – is back, with a new location, new owners and a modern, hipster look. The classics, such as the café’s famed pan dulce, are still there, but celebrity chef Narda Lepes has merged modern and traditional with the savoury menu, and the array of cakes and sweet treats is nothing short of impressive. Time Out enjoyed an artichoke tart with a fresh lemonade, followed by the Capuchino 1862, a creamy concoction laced with dulce de leche and cinnamon. We’re not the only ones hoping this café is back for good.

Avenida Callao 1025 y Marcelo T de Alvear (4519 8166/www.losdoschinos.

Cafés

BA’s traditional cafés are well worth visiting, but you’d be wise to try something other than a café con leche, unless you like your coffee bitter. A new wave of coffee shops are slowly but surely entering the scene, and many are now offering coffee to take away, once a novelty in this city. Use our map (see left) to hunt down BA’s best coffee, whichever barrio you’re in.

Proving that traditional cafés can be given a modern makeover and still retain their charm, old-school confitería Los Dos Chinos (see below) is back with a brand new look and menu, much to the delight of many locals.

Over in Palermo, small but perfectly formed Felix Felices & Co (see p22) is the newest addition to the scene, while the neighbourhood’s favourite juice bar, The Factory (see p22), has now opened up its second branch in the heart of Recoleta.

If you like your coffee in interesting surroundings, don’t miss our selection of BA’s cafés that are hiding behind other exciting spaces (see p23).

com.ar). Subte D, Callao/bus 10, 29, 37, 39, 60, 95, 101, 102, 108, 150.

Open 8am-9pm Mon-Fri; 10am-9pm Sat. Credit MC, V. Map D4. D Grand Café Adding a splash of colour and panache to the Plaza San Martín area, this New York-style café, opened by the owners of Gran Bar Danzón (see p42), is primarily aimed at office workers. A pot of French press coffee and a dulce de leche éclair is just one of the many merienda (tea) options, while on the savoury side, the chalkboard menu promises falafel veggie burgers, smoked salmon sandwiches and fresh salads for lunch.

Basavilbaso 1340, entre Juncal y Avenida del Libertador (4893 9333/ www.grandcafe.com.ar). Subte C, Retiro/bus 10, 17, 28, 92, 93, 100, 101. Open 8am-8pm Mon-Fri; 10am-4pm Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D6. D Pani Pani’s decadent delights are poised for a citywide takeover. The café chain has opened its newest location on a beautiful corner of the Galerías Pacífico shopping centre (see p95). The café is filled with cushioned banquets, velvet curtains and has a fully-stocked bar, but the stars of the show are still Pani’s signature cakes, brownies and just about every other sweet under the sun. Snag a seat up against the windows and dig into a slice of cheesecake studded with Oreos and dulce de leche. In case it wasn’t obvious already, minimalism is certainly not in Pani’s vocabulary.

Viamonte 501, y San Martín (4516 0665/www.pani.com.ar). Subte B, Florida/bus 20, 45, 152. Open 9am-10pm Sun-Thu; 9am-11pm Fri, Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map C5. D Other locations Vicente López 2065, Recoleta (4804 3210); Nicaragua 6044, Palermo (4772 6420).

San Telmo Bar Británico Bar Británico has sat proudly on an iconic San Telmo corner since time immemorial – that is, for pedants, since 1928. Named after the British railway workers who frequented the bar in its early days, it briefly changed its name to El Tánico during the Malvinas (Falklands) war. Days blur into nights at this BA café-bar, where you can nurse a coffee or beer for as long as you like, while you and the taxi drivers watch the world go by through huge picture windows. A change of ownership and a refurbishment had the whole barrio up in arms a few years back, and though it’s not exactly as it once was – the old-school, Spanish Civil War waiterowners are gone, and the toilets are now fit for use – this place still, without exaggeration, encapsulates the very essence of BA café culture.

Brasil 399, y Defensa (4361 2107).

Bus 22, 24, 29, 61. Open 6.30am-2am Mon-Thu; 6.30am-4am Fri-Sun. No credit cards. Map A4. D Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015/16 21

Cafés

DIEGO QUIROGA

New in town Named after Harry Potter’s ‘lucky potion’, Felix Felicis & Co has worked some magic into the local coffee scene. Located on a quiet corner a couple blocks away from buzzing Plaza Serrano, this little café brews the same quality Colombian beans as fellow Palermo coffee connoisseur Lattente (see p23). Highlights include the expertly made flat white, pistachio biscuits and brownie bites. On Saturdays, local vendor El Tosi sets up shop outside to serve home-made pastrami and vegetarian sandwiches. Whatever the day, snag a spot by the window at the wooden bar to study, watch the people of Palermo go by or merendar with friends. Cabrera 5002, y Serrano (4776 4414). Bus 15, 34, 55, 110, 141. Open 9am-8pm Mon-Sat; 10am-8pm Sun. No credit cards. Map G2. D

!El Federal Having celebrated its 150th year in business in 2014, El Federal is one of BA’s most historic bars, with magnificent cash registers, faded lamps and a collection of old advertising posters. There’s a standard set of coffees, beers and spirits and a long list of snacks and sandwiches – the lomo completo beef sandwich comes with all, and we mean all, the trimmings. If you’re lucky, you’ll catch an ad hoc performance of tango standards; if you’re really lucky, it’ll be by Ana, one of the finest singers in San Telmo, who sings bar to bar, hat in hand.

Carlos Calvo 599, y Perú (4300 4313/ www.barelfederal.com.ar). Bus 9, 10, 17, 22, 24, 28, 29, 86, 93, 126, 130, 143, 152, 159, 195. Open 10ammidnight Mon-Sat. No credit cards.

Map B4. D

Tea Connection This airy, modern teahouse is a very good place to detox from the bus fumes, ciggies and espressos that fuel the porteño engine. Wash it all away with a delicious tea or an infusion, served with a timer to ensure the leaves are perfectly drawn. Connoisseurs can sniff the full range from samples in bell jars on the long counter. A great breakfast menu plus sizeable salads, wraps and sandwiches make this a popular weekend hangout.

Uriburu 1597, y Pacheco de Melo (4805 0616/www.teaconnection.com. ar). Bus 10, 17, 59, 60, 92, 102, 110, 118, 124. Open 7.30am-midnight Mon-Thu; 9am-1am Fri, Sat; 9ammidnight Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map E5. D Other locations Montevideo 1655, Recoleta (5199 0363); and branches throughout the city.

Palermo

Felix Felicis & Co

Bar Plaza Dorrego With outdoor seating in atmospheric Plaza Dorrego, this century-old watering hole perfectly embodies the tanguero spirit of San Telmo. Inside, a pale lemon hue is cast over the dusty bottles and etched walls, while tango crackles out over black-and-white images of the one and only Carlos Gardel. It’s an ideal spot to drain a frosty chopp (a small glass of draught beer) while dismembering handfuls of complimentary monkey nuts.

Defensa 1098, y Humberto 1° (4361 0141). Bus 4, 8, 9, 20, 22, 28, 35, 53, 62, 64, 86, 93, 195. Open 8am-11pm Sun-Thu; 8am-3am Fri, Sat. No credit cards. Map B4. D

Other location El Salvador 4995, Palermo (6379 8765).

Mercadito Latino This bright café is in a prime people watching spot right opposite San Telmo’s market. Here you’ll find flavoursome food and drink influenced by all things Latin American. Start the day with a feast in the form of the huevos rancheros: a crunchy tortilla topped with two fried eggs, chips, a fresh avocado salad and butter beans mixed with chorizo and bacon. Stop in later for the daily lunch special (AR$95), or a taste of the tropics in the form of fresh fruit juices and arepas. With all that and more on the menu, Time Out is thankful this spot is open for breakfast, lunch, dinner and drinks.

Carlos Calvo 488, y Bolívar (2004 1056). Subte C, Independencia/bus 24, 29, 93, 126. Open 10am-midnight daily. No credit cards. Map B4. D

Recoleta La Biela A stone’s throw from Recoleta Cemetery, the terrace of this historic, Parisian-style café is a good bet for people-watching. It’s named after the connecting rod in car engines, testimony to the fact that famous motor racing drivers hung out here in the 1950s, as are the framed pictures of race cars still hanging on the walls.

Nowadays, the massive rubber tree outside shelters a terrace packed to the brim with tourists and Recoleta’s most monied residents.

Avenida Quintana 596, y Ortiz (4804 0449/www.labiela.com). Bus 10, 17, 59,

22 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015/16

60, 61, 62, 92, 93, 95, 101, 102 108.

Open 7am-2am Mon-Sat; 8am-2am Sun. Credit AmEx, V. Map E5. D Be Juice This bright, stylish Recoleta café has a range of revitalising juices, smoothies and flavoured waters. Sit at the yellow communal table and flip through art and architecture magazines or use the solar-powered charger to power up your phone while sipping a Super Vitamin juice and enjoying a freshly made tuna or chicken salad. After all that healthy goodness, there’s room to indulge in a slice of decadent beetroot and chocolate cake.

Barrientos 1586, y Pacheco de Melo (4806 7712/www.bejuice.com.ar). Bus 10, 92, 93, 95, 102, 108, 110, 118.

Open 10am-8pm Mon-Sat. No credit cards. Map E5. D

NEW The Factory Having successfully introduced the juice craze to the people of Palermo, Danish-Venezuelan couple Ayaz Shah and Liyanleth Carrillo have brought their juicer to Recoleta. Time Out loves the All Green, a creamy blend of avocado, lemon and apple, and those not on the liquid diet will enjoy the veggie and salmon sandwiches. If you still prefer the caffeinated variety of the pick-me-up, order an espresso made with beans from Full City Coffee House (see p23).

Riobamba 1174, y Arenales (3979 4624). Bus 39, 59, 60, 95, 111. Open 9am-8pm Mon-Sat. No credit cards.

Map E4. D

La Alacena A little off the main tourist route of Palermo, La Alacena is stylish and cosy.

On the menu, you’ll find an array of light lunches with twists on the traditional. Highlights include any of the toasted sandwiches, and Saturday’s brunch option of toast topped with a fried egg, bacon, spinach and ricotta.

Finish off a meal with a dark chocolate and sea salt mousse straight out of the oven, and consider taking a piece of La Alacena home in the form of the tasteful ceramic crockery or delightful home-made jams. You can also stop by in the day to pick up a loaf of La Alacena’s bread, and at night to sample the new evening menu.

Gascón 1401, y Honduras (4867 2549). Bus 36, 39, 106, 110. Open 8.30am-7pm Mon-Wed, 8.30am11.30pm Thu, Fri; 10am-5pm Sat, Sun. No credit cards. Map F3. D Bartola Every weekend Bartola’s inviting pink and blue patio chairs are filled to the brim with chatty locals and foreigners.

The colourful exterior may be responsible for attracting the crowds, but the friendly staff, jugs of the best lemonade in town and all-round buena onda keep them coming back time and time again. Highlights include juicy hamburgers with caramelised onions or pillow-soft ciabatta sandwiches stuffed with grilled chicken, rocket, guacamole and cream cheese. Lighter appetites will be satisfied by a dazzling array of fresh, generous salads. If this spot is full, try the other member of the Bartola family across the street (though these days both are likely to have a queue snaking out the door).

Gurruchaga 1795, y Costa Rica (4833 6522). Bus 39, 41, 67, 93, 152. Open 8.30am-9.30pm Mon-Wed, Sun; 8.30am-1am Thu-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H3. D Other location Gurruchaga 1806, Palermo (4831 3079)

ensures coffee connoisseurs a perfect brew every time. Treat yourself to a freshly baked pastry to accompany an espresso; Time Out couldn’t resist the scrumptious white chocolate and raspberry cookie. To learn the tricks of the trade, opt for a Barista Amateur Class (AR$600), or those with more advanced skills should enquire about classes for more experienced coffee makers.

Humboldt 1542, entre Gorriti y Cabrera (4843 1790/www.labcafe.com. ar). Bus 34, 39, 108, 111, 168. Open 8am-8pm Mon-Fri; 10am-8pm Sat, Sun. Credit AmEx, V. Map H2. D

Lattente This bright little café serves smooth-as-Fonzie Colombian roast, whipped up by Argentina’s champion barista Daniel Cifuentes. Lattente is one of the few places in the city where you can get a top-class (and takeaway) cappuccino, macchiato, mocha, flat !Full City Coffee House white and Americano. Along with Buenos Aires isn’t exactly known for arty doodles on top of your cuppa Joe, its quality service or coffee. Full City Cifuentes has been known to do Coffee House filled that void and became the caffeine addict’s favourite spiked versions with Baileys, Malibu and sambuca. While Lattente doesn’t locale when it opened in Chacarita, serve food at the weekends, keep your and fans anxiously awaited its eyes peeled for vendors lurking re-opening in Palermo Soho in 2013. outside selling freshly made cannoli The English-Colombian owners are and New York-style bagels. bona fide coffee connoisseurs, Thames 1891, entre Nicaragua importing full-bodied arabica y Costa Rica (4833 1676/ beans from Colombia and www.cafelattente.com). roasting them in Bus 34, 39, 55, 57.

Buenos Aires. Coffee is Stay till late Open 9am-8pm the star here, but the Can’t tear yourself away?

Mon-Sat; 10am-8pm fresh juices made from Cafés La Alacena (see Sun. No credit cards. exotic Colombian left), Malvón (see p24), Map G3. fruits, arepas, paninis Ninina Bakery (see right) and salads are equally and Bartola (see left) delicious. Ask about Mark’s Deli & are all open for courses to improve your Coffee House dinner. coffee making technique.

This long-time Palermo Thames 1535, y Pasaje Soria favourite occupies one of the best (4833 6774/www.fullcitycoffeeco.com). corners in the neighbourhood – and Bus 34, 39, 140, 151, 168. Open shows no sign of giving it up. Whether 10am-8pm Tue-Sat; 11am-6pm Sun, you come for the rich slices of cake, Mon. Credit MC, V. Map G2. D ice-cold lemonade, or the corner view of Palermo’s hustle and bustle, Mark’s In Bocca al Luppo is the perfect place to loiter away an The name, the coffee, the menu and afternoon. For a heartier lunch, sink the radio are all Italian at this your teeth into a large smoked salmon unpretentious café. Inside, it’s all sandwich, or munch on giant psychedelic sofas, quaint teacupchocolate-chip cookies, while watching shaped lights, cream walls and that the massed ranks of MacBook-owning comforting hum of an espresso foreigners and fashion identicats – machine at work. But it’s the interior mostly young, female and leaning patio that really makes this little spot towards the uppermost end of the special, with its exposed brick walls beauty spectrum. and sunshine – a perfect oasis in the El Salvador 4701, y Armenia (4832 middle of Palermo Hollywood. The 6244/www.markspalermo.com.ar). Bus lasagne and panini make for a 15, 34, 36, 39, 55, 106, 140. Open delightfully filling lunch, while the 8.30am-9.30pm Mon-Sat; 10.30am-9pm custard-filled cornetti (Italian Sun. No credit cards. Map G3. D croissants) accompanied by Illy coffee are the perfect morning pick-me-up.

Meme Bonpland 1965, entre Costa Rica y Meme fills a gap in the Buenos Aires Nicaragua (4774 3692). Bus 39, 93, lunch scene with its tantalising array 108, 111. Open 9am-11pm Tue-Fri; of globally inspired soups and rolls, 9.30am-8pm Sat, Sun. Credit AmEx, all of which are made to order and MC, V. Map H3. D accompanied by little bowls of dressing, sauce or spice. Time Out LAB Tostadores de Café particularly enjoyed the Leche de This ultra-modern café is an asset to Tigre, a delightfully tangy ceviche Palermo’s buzzing coffee scene. With soup, the gazpacho topped with shavings of parma ham, and the an extensive collection of freshly crispy Vietnamese rolls, which are roasted beans and five different brewing methods to choose from, LAB stuffed full of juicy shredded pork,

TOP TIP!

mushrooms, rice noodles and crab paste. Can’t decide what to try? Order a desgustación sopaholic of three soups of your choice with a home-made lemonade or iced tea.

With all of that for under AR$100, it’s no wonder the locals keep coming back for more.

Gorriti 5881, y Ravignani (4770 9234). Bus 39, 57, 93, 108, 111, 140.

Open 9.30am-5pm Mon, Wed-Sat. Credit V. Map H2. D Ninina Bakery This stunning Palermo bakery uses minimalist, Brooklyn-esque decor to create a delightful spot for sipping on excellent coffee or unusual juices in healthy combos like carrot, orange and ginger. Building on the popularity of main dishes like the to-die-for vegetarian burger, which comes with about 50 different topping options, Ninina Bakery is now open for dinner.

Gorriti 4738, entre Malabia y Armenia (4832 0070/www.ninina.com). Bus 15, 39, 55, 57, 140. Open 8am-midnight Mon-Thu; 8am-1am Fri; 9am-1am Sat; 9am-midnight Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2. D Oui Oui This gorgeous French-style café is one of the nicest places Time Out knows

for breakfast, lunch, tea or any of the other possible daytime repasts. The main draw is undoubtedly brunch, which thanks to its generous portions and a well-priced menu, sees queues out the door and plates of eggs Benedict, French toast and waffles flying out to every table. Croissants, baguettes, salads and pain au chocolat are all listed on the blackboards that preside over the jolly, pastel-painted interior; and despite the cake stands and floral prints, there’s nothing overly twee about this place.

Nicaragua 6068, entre Arévalo y Dorrego (4778 9614/www.ouioui.com. ar). Subte D, Ministro Carranza/bus 39, 41, 57, 60, 67. Open 8am-8pm Tue-Fri; 10am-8pm Sat, Sun. No credit cards. Map H3. D Other location Nicaragua 6099, Palermo (4776 4442).

Pain et Vin Stocking boutique Argentinian vintages from wineries such as Altos Las Hormigas, Bodega del Desierto and Domaine Bousquet, Pain et Vin offers up the perfect drinking scenario: relax with a bottle around the communal table while tucking into a still-warm loaf baked from scratch.

The varieties of bread – choose from

Café doble These cafés contain more than meets the eye, doubling as shops or hiding the entrance to a secret bar

Yeite

Yeite Typically, coffee and high-end designer clothing stay as far away from each other as possible, but café Yeite and designer shop JT by Jessica Trosman (see p108) happily share a space. Just don’t expect to take your sandwich with you as you peruse Trosman’s edgy pieces. See p24.

Pehache It’s hard to walk into Pehache’s home decor shop and not feel a tinge of envy that your own flat isn’t decorated with artisanal ceramics, hand-knitted blankets and miniature succulents. Linger over tea and scones in the shop’s café to pretend you do live in such a splendid place, at least for an afternoon. See p100.

Victoria Brown Early birds enjoying Sunday brunch at this tiny café might have no idea that behind

the brick wall is a steampunk-themed cocktail bar. The night owls returning for a meal the morning after can clue you in of course. See p82.

Libros del Pasaje Nothing goes together quite so well as books and coffee. Grab a volume of Borges to enjoy alongside a café con leche and a slice of cheesecake at the bookshop’s recently redesigned café, Bar del Pasaje, and consider it an afternoon well spent. See p100.

Paul Walk into Paul’s narrow entryway to find plants, furniture, ceramics, kitchenware and a delightful tea shop with the superior Tealosphy tea, and somewhere in the midst of all that, the shop’s small in-house café, Decata.

Gorriti 4865 (4833 2209/ www.pauldeco.com).

Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015/16 23

Cafés

!Birkin Coffee Bar BA café culture is something of a paradox: there are charming cafés on every street corner, two meals a day are dedicated to coffee and sweet treats (breakfast and merienda to the uninitiated) and yet, the coffee is terrible. Birkin Coffee Bar is an exception, with the richest, strongest cappuccino in town. Oh, and there are also fresh pastries, old school marble countertops, zigzag tiled floors, cushy banquet seats, decadent brunch options and a rack of fashion glossies to flip through while you merendar. There’s a small selection of wine and aperitifs for the happy hour crowd, an all-round cool vibe and good food, but it’s all about the coffee here.

República Árabe Siria 3061, y Cabello (4843 7470). Bus 10, 57, 60. Open 9am-9pm Tue-Fri; 10am-9pm Sat, Sun. No credit cards. Map G4. D

Cafés

streets. Both cafés are open late, so what started as a merienda can easily turn into dinner and drinks till the small hours.

Serrano 789, y Aguirre, Villa Crespo (4774 2563/www.malvonba.com.ar).

Bus 19, 34, 55, 65, 71, 76, 90, 106.

Open 9am-1am Tue-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G1. D Other location Lafinur 3275, Palermo (4807 1458).

Full City Coffee House (see p23)

farmhouse, olive, nut and rye – are all baked in a wood-burning oven that the husband-and-wife team built. Drop by for a lunchtime BLT sandwich on rustic country bread or pop in for an ‘it’s uncorking time’ splash of the sacred grape with some bread and cheese on the patio.

Gorriti 5132, y Thames (4832 5654).

Bus 39, 108, 140. Open noon-10pm Tue-Sat; noon-7pm Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2. D Le Pain Quotidien The rustic chic decor and communal table concept of Le Pain Quotidien may be nothing new to the international traveller, but the Belgian chain is a welcome addition to Palermo’s merienda scene. Your bread basket will still come with dulce de leche, but you’ll find salmon tartines and flaky croissants in favour of tostadas and medialunas. You can choose an individual table over communal, but the weary single traveller may appreciate the company of fellow diners. In any case, be sure to grab a fresh baguette or pistachio-pear madeleine on the way out.

Armenia 1641, entre Honduras y El Salvador (4831 5709/www.lepain quotidien.com.ar). Bus 36, 39, 140.

Open 9am-9pm daily. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3. D Other locations Jerónimo Salguero 3075, Palermo (4807 2098); Sucre 2151, Belgrano (4788 4738); Posadas 1402, Recoleta (4811 6391).

Il Posto Mercato This sandwich joint, almacén and butchers is a one-stop shop for all your lunch and picada needs. The deli sources the highest quality cheeses and cured meats the city has to offer, and what the selection of sandwiches lacks in options, it makes up for in quality. Highlights include the red pepper baguette, which is layered

with mortadella (a pork-based Italian sausage) and cheese. Whether you order your food to take away or enjoy it on the patio with a glass of wine, if you live nearby, you may soon find yourself visiting Il Posto regularly.

Soler 5502, y Humboldt (2067 8882/ www.ilpostomercato.com). Bus 34, 39, 57, 93, 95, 108. Open 11am-9pm Mon-Wed; 11am-10pm Thu-Sat. Credit MC, V. Map H3. D Voltaire This cosy country kitchen, located on the corner of its pretty namesake street, serves up simple, tasty and reasonably priced nosh for breakfast and lunch. The fresh pumpkin salad with poached egg and sun-dried tomatoes might just be one of the best light meals available in the city. There’s a cute café on every corner of this barrio, but fortunately Voltaire’s food and drink is as charming as the location. For, as Voltaire himself once wrote, ‘Nothing would be more tiresome than eating and drinking if God had not made them a pleasure as well as a necessity.’

Carranza 1946, y Voltaire (4777 4132). Bus 39, 57, 93, 108. Open 9am-7pm Tue-Sun. No credit cards.

Map H3. D

Almagro and Villa Crespo Café Crespin On any given day, this sign of the trendification (or Palermification) of Villa Crespo is packed with a tribe of twenty- to thirtysomethings clicking away on MacBooks and young parents out for a leisurely brunch with the baby. Maybe they come for the diner decor and the free Wi-Fi, but Time Out’s betting the menu has something to do with it. The intriguing mash-up

24 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015/16

of greasy-spoon hangover food is mixed with a healthy selection of breakfasts, salads and sandwiches.

Crespin’s crowning accomplishment is the American bakery; highlights are the New York-style cheesecake and cinnamon rolls. Fans of Café Crespin should try sister café Don (Vera 601).

Vera 699, y Acevedo, Villa Crespo (4855 3771/www.cafecrespin.com.ar).

Sube B, Malabia/bus 15, 19, 24, 106, 109. Open 8am-8pm Tue-Fri; 9am-8pm Sat; noon-7pm Sun. Credit MC, V. Map G3. D !La Crespo Despite boasting the world’s seventh largest Jewish population, Argentina lacks solid options for homesick Jewish-cuisine aficionados (the Kosher McDonald’s in Abasto Shopping Centre doesn’t quite cut it). Luckily, there’s hope in this hidden Villa Crespo gem of a café. One of the few places in the city to offer a decent bagel, La Crespo serves up house specialities like knishes (dumplings), strudel and potato latkes. The hot pastrami sandwich is a must: stacked high with 200g of thin pastrami slices, served with pickled cucumbers, caramelised onions and Dijon mustard – all on multigrain bread.

Thames 612, y Vera, Villa Crespo (4856 9770/www.lacrespo.com). Bus 19, 34, 55, 65, 71. Open 11.30am8pm Tue-Fri; 11.30am-6pm Sat, Sun. No credit cards. Map G1. D !Malvón This café-cum-bakery’s eclectic menu covers both the sweet and savoury, with nutella-filled French toast for the former and New York-inspired pastrami sandwiches and bagels for the latter. Malvón also has a second location in the gorgeous Palermo Botánico neighbourhood, meaning you’ll be able to walk off a weekend brunch with a stroll through the leafy

Las Violetas Opened in 1884, used as a secret meeting place for political revolutionaries in the ’80s, abandoned by its owner and taken over by squatters in the ’90s, only to be reclaimed by the neighbourhood and completely revitalised just before the 2001 crisis – well, needless to say Las Violetas has an interesting history, and it’s showing no signs of stopping.

Soaring ceilings, exquisite stainedglass windows and pristine whitejacketed waiters combine to make this an extra-special café spot.

Avenida Rivadavia 3899, y Medrano, Almagro (4958 7387/www.lasvioletas. com). Subte A, Castro Barros/bus 5, 86, 104, 105. Open 6am-1am daily.

Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map E1. D Yeite Bringing a breath of fresh air to a slightly downtrodden area of Villa Crespo, stylish and modern Yeite is the creation of pastry specialist Pamela Villar and has a star-studded list of collaborators – designer Jessica Trosman, whose shop JT (see p108) is next door, and top chef Fernando Trocca of Sucre (see p64), to name but two. Yeite’s menu changes fortnightly and focuses on fresh, seasonal ingredients combined in unusual and exciting ways. Whatever you choose from the pick-and-mix menu be sure to save some space for Villar’s stunning desserts. Past creations include an exquisitely tangy orange tart and melt-in-your-mouth pistachio, lemon and mascarpone profiteroles. The secret is out on this charming café, so be prepared to queue during the weekend brunch rush.

Humboldt 293, y Murillo (4855 6777).

Subte B, Dorrego/bus 19, 34, 42, 55.

Open 9am-7pm Tue-Sun. No credit cards. Map H1. D

Belgrano Nolita While esconsed at a corner table enjoying a cup of Illy coffee and a freshly baked blueberry muffin, imagine yourself teleported from the sleepy streets north of Buenos Aires’s Barrio Chino (Chinatown), to happening NYC district North of Little Italy – this cosy café’s namesake. With a variety of deli-style sandwiches and a trendy red-brick and recycled wood interior, Nolita and all its elements are true to its New York theme.

Franklin D Roosevelt 1806, y 11 de Septiembre (4786 8690/www. nolitabakery.com). Bus 15, 29. Open 11am-7pm daily. No credit cards. D

DIEGO QUIROGA

Restaurants

La Cresta pulls in the punters with its tempting array of wraps and hamburgers

Gourmet to go No longer are formal, sit down restaurants the guardians of BA’s best food and drink. Allie Lazar swings by the casual joints that are shaking things up

I

n this culinary conservative city filled with classic cafés and parrillas, an unfamiliar player is making a big impression. Comida al paso, fast food con onda, gourmet takeaway, trendy rotisseries – call it what you will, this new type of eatery is spreading across the city faster than you can say ‘para llevar, por favor’. You can barely walk a block in Palermo without coming across a hipster bar offering burgers and artisanal beer, and bitter coffee in staid cafés is quickly becoming a thing of the past. The best thing about this edible revolution? You don’t have to spend much, or wait long to get a taste of it.

TEMPTING TAKEAWAY The model looks like this: a young chef opens a small, casual space outside of the main Palermo circuit, and serves a reduced menu of fresh internationally-inspired dishes that change almost daily. You pay at the counter and wait for your food while standing, and then either head home to stuff yourself in private, or eat in-house in a small dining area or on a bar stool.

Tasty fast food joints with no table service might be totally normal in other parts of the world, but in Buenos Aires, they’re a novelty. El Banco Rojo (Bolívar 914, 4362 3177) burst onto the scene in San Telmo four years ago, and has since garnered a devout following of customers who praise its take on

international street food. Try the Big Harvey prawns on pita, fried spicy lamb empanadas or the Korean barbecue tacos. Another pioneer in the movement, La Cresta (Bulnes 829, Almagro, 4864 4417 also Bolívar 865, San Telmo, 4977 3731) is a small takeaway spot that opened in Almagro in 2012. The owners, Englishman Stuart Dove and his Argentinian wife Samanta Gonzalez, opened the unorthodox rotisserie with the aim of bringing something completely different to the neighbourhood. The juicy chicken and meat wraps, covered in a secret mix of spices, flame roasted and served with inventive salads and sides proved an instant hit, and in 2015, La Cresta opened a second, larger location in San Telmo.

New ventures following a similar model include Kon Kon (Juan Ramírez de Velasco 942, 4858 1489) in Villa Crespo. Chef and sommelier couple Pablo Abramovsky and Ivana Piñar – of the acclaimed puerta cerrada Paladar (see p51) – opened this spot in 2015. All the dishes, many of them involving Middle Eastern flavours inspired by Abramovsky’s travels, are cooked in a wood fired oven to order. You can’t go wrong with the shawarma, the braised pork sandwiches or one of Kon Kon’s hearty stews, though you may have a hard time choosing from the extensive list of sauces and flavour combinations.

Over in Barrio Norte, the chefs at Panachef (Sánchez de Bustamante 1470, 4961 3782) use a hot plate to cook up all manner of Venezuelan street food wonders. This hole-in-thewall joint serves wraps, arepas and sandwiches bursting with colourful fillings in the week, but the real action happens on Saturdays, when the Caribbean party flows out onto the calle. In Palermo, VinoTinto Cocina Andante (Julian Álvarez 1602, 4861 4941) was created for the busy food-lover looking to take home simple yet great home cooked meals that won’t break the bank.

The food on display changes every day, depending on what the owners find at the market, and there’s also a fridge stocked with tasty vacuumpacked dishes.

The gastro-pub is a fairly new concept in Buenos Aires, and NOLA Gastropub’s (see p80) simple yet winning formula makes it the leader in the movement. Order at the bar, watch the cooks fry away in the open kitchen until your name is called, and then fight for a spot at the bar to devour these edible gifts from the gods: New Orleans-style fried chicken and craft beer.

Over in the centre, DOGG (San Martín 657, 4516 0288) has mixed up the lunchtime scene with BA’s first real hot dog. A far cry from the typical sad pancho boiled in dirty water at a kiosko, DOGG’s hot dogs are home-made, grilled and popped

in fluffy buns with fresh toppings and condiments (including an impressive wall of imported hot sauces). Also in the centre, new joint Del Toro (see p28) serves up impressive beef, pork and lamb burgers, which are freshly made each morning on-site.

COFFEE CRAVING Even though BA has a strong café culture, sipping a cup of the good stuff on the go was never a thing in this city. But times have changed, and a new generation of baristas is showing the locals that coffee can be high quality, even in a Styrofoam cup. Small Microcentro joint Barrio Cafetero (Florida 833, 4313 5669) opened thanks to award-winning barista Rodrigo Rochas. Rochas travelled across the world in search of the best cuppa Joe, and it shows.

A few blocks away, newcomer Negro Cueva de Café (Suipacha 637, 4322 3000) has a window facing the street so downtown workers can grab a caffeine fix on the go. Coffee Town (www.coffeetowncompany.com) in the San Telmo market (see p110) has been a long time proponent of a quick cup of the good stuff, while LAB Tostadores de Café (see p23), over in Palermo Hollywood, serves a killer combination of a flawlessly made flat white served with a soft chocolate chip cookie.

Nowadays, you can even get a decent coffee while you wait for the underground at Plaza Italia, as Lattente (see p23) recently opened the city’s first quality coffee shop in a Subte station. Lattente’s original Palermo location is still going strong and also hosts the best bagel (okay, probably the only bagel) to hit BA’s streets in 2015. Sheikob’s Bagels (www.facebook.com/sheikobsbagels) is run by New York bagel maker Jake Eichenbaum-Pikser, who serves up scrumptious bagels with cream cheese from his bicycle outside Lattente on Sundays, and outside LAB on Fridays.

Top burgers The Mexican burger at Burger Joint Guacamole, cheese and jalapeños give this flavour-packed burger a substantial kick of heat. Olé. See p44.

Create your own burger at 180 Burger Bar Good luck choosing from the thousands of options including bacon, crispy provoleta and tzatziki sauce.

Suipacha 749.

TDN Deluxe at Tierra de Nadie A burger stuffed with cheese and topped with bourbon? Yes please. Avellaneda 588.

The Chilli-provoleta at The Sandwich Bar This newcomer keeps it real with a meat-packed burger topped with ground beef, chilli and cheese. Talcahuano 379.

The Dry-aged burger at Pony Line Bar BA’s premier burger doesn’t come cheap, but the combination of beef dry aged for 45 days and Lincoln cheddar cheese is pure bliss. See p76.

Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015/16 25

Restaurants

The essentials

As our feature suggests, the gourmet fast food trend shows no sign of slowing down in BA, and it seems that a new hamburger joint opens up almost every week, especially in Palermo. New joint Del Toro (see p28) is bringing the burger trend to BA’s centre, while in San Telmo, Spanish celebrity chef Borja Blázquez sticks to tradition with his classic restaurant, Casa Borja (see p34). Also in San Telmo, new charity puerta cerrada Delicias de Alicia (see p66) offers home-cooked vegetarian fare with plenty of flair.

Aside from these new openings, several other restaurants are branching out into their second, or even third locations. Fans of the cocktail bar Florería Atlántico (see p74) will be pleased to hear that a sister restaurant, Brasero Atlántico (see p32), has now opened up next door, while stunning new joint Brandon (see p42), from the owners of Miranda (see p46), is wowing the crowds in Palermo.

And it doesn’t stop there. Burger bar Dean & Dennys (see p40) is now in Palermo Hollywood, La Esperanza de los Ascurra (see p64) has recently set up another Spanish tapas joint in Recoleta and Buenos Aires Verde (see p68) is now bringing its vegetarian delights to the people of Belgrano.

If you’re after the basics of Argentinian food, check out our writers’ recommendations for where to sample classic dishes on page 36. And if you want to try lots of dishes in one

place, see our box on BA’s best food events (see p31). There really is no reason to go hungry in Buenos Aires.

HOW TO USE THE LISTINGS This section brings together our pick of the city’s restaurants.

Prices are represented by peso signs: $ indicates a rough range of under AR$120 for main courses, although some restaurants have special dishes on their menus that can be much more expensive; $$ is AR$121-$160; $$$ is AR$161-$220; and $$$$ indicates AR$221 and above. Prices given here do not include extras such as wine, starters, dessert or coffees. ! is for restaurants we particularly recommend.

NEW signals a restaurant that has opened in the last six months or so.

A marks a restaurant whose bar is worth a visit on its own, whether or not you stay for dinner. ! marks our top spots for bargain dining – they’re not always the cheapest places, but they nevertheless represent good value for money.

V is for restaurants with good options for vegetarians, or which are entirely veggie.

The Centre

ARGENTINIAN – TRADITIONAL

Club del Progreso Dating from 1852, this hidden treasure in the heart of Congreso features a menu based on traditional dishes that have been reinvented for modern times and are served in an unassuming

Dadá

26 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015/16

paradise. In fine weather, relaxing in the lovely garden is an excellent option.

Try the suckling pig cooked in the outdoor adobe oven, or opt for the succulent salmon.

Sarmiento 1334, entre Talcahuano y Uruguay, Congreso (4372 3350/ www.clubdelprogresorestaurante.com).

Subte B, Uruguay/bus 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 12, 24, 60, 100, 111, 115, 129, 140, 146, 150, 151, 168, 180. Open noon-4pm daily; 8pm-midnight Mon-Thu; 8pm-1am Fri, Sat. Main courses $$$$.

Lunch AR$130. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D4. A ARGENTINIAN – MODERN

!Dadá Dadá is one of the hottest spots in the city and is also one of the most frequently recommended places to chow down. Set in a small and cheerful space, the owner Paolo and his family weave their magic, managing to charm and serve clients with a menu that is as imaginative as the lighting and furnishings that adorn the restaurant.

The menu often changes but the classics remain. If you’re looking for a light bite, the delicious houmous and guacamole dips are fabulous finger foods, or if you’re feeling a little bit more peckish, the lomo Dadá or the salmon with polenta never fail. Chilled lagers, good cocktails and a fine boutique wine list complete a very pretty picture.

San Martín 941, entre Marcelo T de Alvear y Paraguay, Microcentro (4314 4787). Subte C, San Martín/bus 5, 6, 7, 9, 20, 33, 62, 93, 152, 180, 195.

Open noon-3am Mon-Sat. Main courses $$$. Lunch AR$165. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D6. A Tomo I Those hankering after the good ol’ days, when eating out was more about quality than keeping up with trends, need to pay a visit to the ever-reliable Tomo I. This elegant restaurant within downtown’s Hotel Panamericano serves up what might just be the best tasting menu in the city; the nine courses change constantly, but could just as easily include ostrich ravioli as beef tenderloin. A soft warm glow, spotlessly white tablecloths and jazz tunes make this a romantic place for a tête-à-tête, while the restaurant’s proximity to the Teatro Colón means you’ll likely see opera singers in their glad rags swanning in for a postperformance feast. Red wines served in crystal decanters by suited staff add a glamorous touch to a night out; reservations and sharp dress are recommended, if not essential.

Hotel Panamericano, Carlos Pellegrini 521, y Tucumán, Microcentro (4326 6695/www.tomo1.com.ar). Subte B, Carlos Pellegrini/bus 5, 6, 9, 10. Open noon-3pm Mon-Fri; 7.30pm-midnight Mon-Sat. Main courses $$$$. Lunch AR$650. Tasting menu AR$1200.

Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D5.

ITALIAN

Chiuso You may not have high hopes for a restaurant whose name translates as ‘closed’, but rest assured that small and

Restaurants Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015/16 27

ECLECTIC

Restaurants

NEW Del Toro Influenced by his Spanish roots, Pedro Bello Arias teamed up with chef and Madrid-native Yago Márquez to create this tribute to the strength and energy of the bull (toro). Although the menu includes breakfasts, sandwiches and salads, it’s the burgers that are the star here. Time Out’s favourite is the Del Toro, a juicy lamb burger oozing with caramelised onions, roast aubergines and curry mayonnaise. Add the papas soufflé – a fluffy take on chips – and a pint of artisanal beer made by local brewery Grunge, and you’ll realise why this place is always packed to the gills.

Happy hour is from 5pm to 7pm.

Bernardo de Irigoyen 366, y Moreno, Monserrat (5368 6388). Subte C, Moreno/bus 10, 29, 39, 60, 100, 126.

Open 8am-10pm Mon-Wed; 8ammidnight Thu, Fri. Main courses $.

No credit cards. Map C4.

JAPANESE

Del Toro

simple Chiuso is sure to remain a fixture in the neighbourhood. Those familiar with the owners’ former restaurant, Doppio Zero, know that Chiuso is the place to make Argentina’s Italian ancestors proud. There’s no soggy pasta or bland risotto here, instead you’ll find white salmon with caponata and risotto infused with saffron and topped with gorgeous prawns. The raciones are ideal for sharing and as seafood features heavily on the menu, opt for a crisp white wine or an Aperol spritz.

San Martín 1153, entre Florida y Avenida del Libertador, Retiro (4311 7652/www.chiusoristorante.com). Subte C, San Martín/bus 23, 26, 28, 33, 45.

Open noon-4pm, 8-11.30pm Tue-Sat. Main courses $$$. Lunch AR$170.

Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D6. !

El Cuartito El Cuartito is a taste of BA in its tango heyday, and little has changed since 1934, when it started serving thick-crust, topping-heavy pizzas (except perhaps the prices, nowadays AR$140 for a whole pizza). In the fierce debate over the city’s best pizzeria, this cavernous, no-frills joint is a serious contender for the top spot. One bite of the fugazzeta (cheese and onion pizza) and you might agree, or opt for the Tabasco-laden Atómica. Don’t let the queues put you off: if you’re too

famished to wait for a table beneath the photos of local sporting heroes, march up to the cash register and order a slice of whatever you fancy to devour at the counter. For a taste of El Cuartito’s competitors, it’s a mere five blocks to the city’s pizza-parlour heartland of Avenida Corrientes. There you’ll find Las Cuartetas (Avenida Corrientes 838) and Güerrín (Avenida Corrientes 1368).

Talcahuano 937, y Paraguay, Tribunales (4816 1758). Subte D, Tribunales/bus 10, 29, 152, 180.

Open 12.30pm-1am Tue-Thu, Sun; 12.30pm-2am Fri, Sat. Main courses $. No credit cards. Map D5. ! V !Filo With Argentina’s constant inflation, it’s no easy task to keep prices in check.

Filo, which celebrated its 20th anniversary in 2014, has managed to do just that, and as a result is a popular lunchtime restaurant. Come 1pm, even the bar stools are occupied by rows of financial advisers chowing down on large pizzas topped with every combination of cheese, vegetables and meat imaginable. With a cool, urban interior accented by slashes of red and yellow, a lengthy menu that includes pastas, seafood, salads and more, oversized bread baskets on every table and a traditional brick oven, it’s an obvious contender for one of the best places to grab a bite downtown. Nab a

28 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015/16

chair early and pair your pizza with a salad made from delicious, flavoursome steamed vegetables.

San Martín 975, entre Marcelo T de Alvear y Paraguay, Retiro (4311 0312/ www.filo-ristorante.com). Subte C, San Martín/bus 10, 50, 93, 180. Open noon-2am daily. Main courses $$.

Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map C6. A María Fedele Squirrelled away inside the unassuming Associazione Nazionale Italiana, this discreet restaurant would get the nod of approval from even the most discerning Italian mother. Make the charming waiters’ day by managing to eat with relish all four delicious courses on the set menu – not an easy task, it should be noted. The table positively groans with plates of delicacies like smoked roasted peppers, velvety duck pâté, home-made cured hams, and after the fresh pasta course, meat course, and home-made dessert platter, your stomach may well be groaning too. Fortunately, the complimentary digestif, a delicious and liberally poured fennel-infused grappa, should sort things out.

Alsina 1465, entre San José y Luis Sáenz Peña, Congreso (4381 2233/ www.ristorantemariafedele.com). Subte A, Sáenz Peña/bus 6, 60, 86. Open 8pm-midnight Wed-Sat. Set menu AR$270. No credit cards. Map C4.

Wasabi’s The downtown location of Wasabi’s is open for lunch during the week, with both a seating area and takeaway options. The sushi joint’s newest location peddles the same quality Japanese cuisine at prices that are hard to believe. Soups, sushi combos, Thai and Peruvian fushion dishes are all served fast and on the cheap, with delivery options available as well. The classic rolls are all there, but Wasabi’s certainly isn’t bogged down by tradition; the Malbec roll is salmon and spring onions with Philadelphia cheese, wrapped in smoked salmon and sprinkled with a malbec reduction sauce. The original Palermo branch is still going strong in the evening.

San Martín 986, y Marcelo T de Alvear, Microcentro (4515 0675/www. wasabis.com.ar). Subte C, San Martín/ bus 5, 7, 20, 22, 93, 99, 100. Open 11am-4pm Mon-Fri. Main courses $.

No credit cards. Map D6. !

Other location Thames 1810, Palermo (4832 9346).

PERUVIAN

!Chan Chan Tucked behind the magnificent Palacio Barolo (see p114), sweet and simple Chan Chan continues to wow punters with its brilliant, spicy Peruvian food at affordable prices. Among the long list of Andean classics, look out for the excellent chicharrón de pescado (battered fish) and the causa de salmón ahumado – a colourful stack of salmon-and-potato-based joy. A popular dessert is the torta de tres leches (a three milk sweet treat). Chan Chan is a genuine bargain, and the large portions are ideal for sharing, which means the budget can stretch to a pisco sour or two.

Hipólito Yrigoyen 1390, y San José, Congreso (4382 8492). Subte A, Sáenz Peña/bus 39, 60, 100, 101, 102, 151.

Open noon-4pm Tue-Sun; 8pm12.30am Tue-Thu; 8pm-2.30am Fri, Sat; 8pm-11.30pm Sun. Main courses $.

No credit cards. Map C4. !

Other location Hipólito Yrigoyen 1386, Congreso (4382 8689).

Restaurants Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015/16 29

Restaurants

EMILY ANNE EPSTEIN

Aldo’s (see p31)

Coya Though this local haunt is located in the backstreets of Microcentro, don’t let the daytime chaos or night-time ghosts put you off eating here.

Abundant platters of ceviche made of fresh juicy mariscos soaked in a red onion, coriander and lemon juice marinade make for a refreshing starter to share, but a meal here wouldn’t be complete without a sweet and hard-hitting pisco sour. The decor and ambience is simple, but locals visit again and again for the great food.

Tucumán 874, y Suipacha, Microcentro (4393 1709/www.comidaperuanacoya. com). Subte B, Diagonal Norte/bus 5, 29, 59, 67, 70, 91, 99, 100, 109, 111.

Open noon-midnight Wed-Mon. Main courses $. Lunch AR$65. Credit V. Map C5.

Rawa Having seen queues of disappointed people file away from BA classic Chan Chan (see p28), owner María and her family decided to open this restaurant to catch the overfill. Hearty standards like chupe de mariscos, ají de gallina and lomo salteado are popular in the winter, while in hotter weather degustaciones de ceviche and papas a la huancaína reign supreme. Lime-green tablecloths, plastic plants and a towering Machu Picchu on the wall mean Rawa is thankfully just as kitsch as Chan Chan.

Talcahuano 447, entre Lavalle y Avenida Corrientes, Tribunales (4519 8629). Subte D, Tribunales/bus 10, 24,

26, 29, 67, 70, 91, 99, 100, 109, 111, 132, 146. Open noon-4pm, 8pmmidnight daily. Main courses $. No credit cards. Map D5.

late-night steak blowout at this legendary San Telmo parrilla. Staffing the joint are bloody-apron-wearing, knife-wielding cooks and cheeky waiters, and the mix of foreigners and locals makes for a boisterous and friendly scene. If you want to feel part of the action, get a table in the main ARGENTINIAN – TRADITIONAL restaurant rather than in the annex out La Brigada the back. By Sunday evening, after the If you’ve ever had dinner in San Telmo, tourist hordes have worked up an you know what it’s like to be packed appetite at the street market, the wait in tightly with eager patrons awaiting can be long – better to go on a quieter their steak and papas fritas. The weekday, or drop in for a juicy difference at La Brigada is that you’re more likely to bump elbows with gents empanada, filled with chicken or beef, to devour as you walk down the street. discussing wine than with the usual Defensa 855, entre Avenida jumble of backpackers and young Independencia y Estados Unidos lovers. Though refined, this (4300 9081). Subte C, parrilla is traditionally Independencia/bus 10, Argentinian to its core.

24, 29, 33, 61, 64, 74, One floor of the 50 best 86, 93, 152, 159, 195. multi-tiered dining room Ten Argentinian Open noon-1am is covered with framed restaurants made it on Tue-Sun. Main courses football jerseys, while to Latin America’s 50 $$. Lunch AR$90. Credit further upstairs is a best restaurant list (Mon-Fri only) MC, V. massive wine case with in 2015.

Map B4.! zigzagging bottles. Yet more bottles line the staircase leading Gran Parrilla del Plata downstairs to the cavernous wine With a great location on a picturesque cellar, a veritable vino lover’s haven. corner, fine cuts of beef and Estados Unidos 465, entre Bolívar rustic-style decor, the Gran Parrilla y Defensa (4361 4685/www.parrilla del Plata has established itself as a labrigada.com.ar). Bus 8, 22, 24, 28, barrio classic and gets packed out 29, 33, 61, 64, 74. Open noon-3pm, most nights. All the cuts of meat are 8pm-midnight daily. Main courses exquisite; but the ojo de bife (ribeye) $$. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map B4. and the tasty entraña (skirt steak) are the ones most recommended by the El Desnivel friendly, multilingual waiters. Equally High on the list of fun things to do in BA without taking your clothes off is a worth sampling is the Argentinian

San Telmo

30 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015/16

TOP TIP!

comfort food, like the milanesas and home-made pasta. Still hungry? A hefty slice of tiramisu or the torta guilt – brownie, chocolate mousse, dulce de leche and meringue – should just about tip you over the edge.

Classy but welcoming, this steakhouse is always reliable.

Chile 594, y Perú (4300 8858/www. parrilladelplata.com.ar). Subte E, Belgrano/bus 24, 29, 33, 86, 93, 152, 159, 195. Open noon-4pm, 8pm-1am Mon-Sat; 12.30pm-1am Sun. Main courses $$. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map B4.

Manolo This friendly neighbourhood joint is buzzing most nights with a loyal clientele who come to feast on both excellent parrilla standards, and parrilla standards with a twist – a ham and mozzarella-stuffed steak, for example. Besides steak, there are local favourites such as milanesas and home-made pastas. Most dishes are more than enough for two, so moderate your gluttony if you dream of handling one of the many delicious desserts; you’ll be thankful you saved room for home-made flan with dulce de leche or a large slice of tiramisu.

Bolívar 1299, y Cochabamba (4307 8743/www.restaurantmanolo.com.ar).

Bus 4, 8, 10, 22, 53, 61, 62, 64, 74, 86, 93, 126, 129. Open from 6pm Mon-Thu; from noon Fri, Sat; noon-4pm Sun. Main courses $$.

Lunch AR$100-$180. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map B4.!

BA food events

BA FOOD WEEK This week of pure food indulgence sees around 40 restaurants offering a set lunch and dinner – including a starter, main and dessert – at bargain prices. The event has struck a chord with local food-lovers, so be sure to make reservations in advance.

April and September. Various locations (www.bafoodweek.com).

BUENOS AIRES MARKET Line your kitchen cupboards with local delicacies at this popular food market.

Expect the likes of freshly baked bread, artisanal cheese, Patagonian trout pâté and organic wine. If being surrounded by so much food makes your stomach rumble, try a fresh smoothie, veggie stir-fry or soy meat empanada from one of the takeaway stands.

Monthly. Various locations (www.buenos airesmarket.com).

LE PETIT MERCADO Satisfy your inner Francophile with a trip to this bona fide French market to feast on crêpes, canelés, eclairs, croquemonsieurs, macarons and, of course, wine and cheese. Eat a meal on-site and enjoy the live music, or stock up on goodies to take home.

Monthly. Various locations (www.facebook. com/lepetitmercadodebuenosaires).

SEMANA DEL MALBEC While the rest of the world celebrates World Malbec Day on April 17, Argentina dedicates a whole week to its favourite tipple. Expect wine tastings and talks, plus promotions and vino-laced menus at participating bars and restaurants.

Mid April. Various locations.

ARGENTINIAN – MODERN

Aldo’s Vinoteca y Restorán At this Russian doll of a restaurant within a wine store within a hotel (the Moreno, see p140), celebrity sommelier Aldo Graziani has made vino the star of the show: 500 quality labels adorn the modern art-deco restaurant. All the wines are selected at blind tastings and sold at retail price, converting this into a fabulous wine store that happens to have a stellar kitchen attached. An exquisite modern Argentinian menu includes tenderloin steak in a rich red wine sauce, vegetable soufflés and chocolate volcanos with dulce de leche, just to name a few. Take advantage of

Restaurants

FERIA MASTICAR Locals queue up round the block to get into this food fair, where the city’s top restaurants have food stands serving miniature portions of their fine cuisine.

This is your chance to sample Buenos Aires’s gourmet offerings without splashing out on a whole meal, and to pick up a range of quality pantry goods (think organic mushrooms, speciality teas and artisanal jams). There are also talks and classes run by local celebrity chefs and bartenders.

April. El Dorrego, Zapiola 50 (www.feria masticar.com.ar).

the Tuesday wine tastings and Wednesday evening happy hour to find your favourite grape juice, and then come back every other night.

Moreno 372, entre Defensa y Balcarce (4343 0823/www.aldosvinoteca.com).

Subte A, Perú/bus 29, 56, 64, 74, 111, 129, 195. Open noon-midnight daily.

Main courses $$$. Lunch AR$200.

Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map B5. ! Astor – Manduque Porteño This modern bistro has recently relocated from Colegiales, and is at the top of its game. The name, Astor, as in Piazzolla the tango king, is a nod to the BA of yesteryear, while manduque porteño translates as ‘BA grub’. The contemporary Argentinian menu changes weekly according to what’s fresh at the market, but expect it to be playful as chef Antonio Soriano is a fan of conceptual cuisine (on Time Out’s visit, the tasting menu was inspired by the arrival of spring). The restaurant has several touches that make it extra special, including the maté gourd and kettle brought to every table as an appetiser, which is filled with a refreshing cocktail.

Humberto Primo 777, y Piedras (4361 2944/www.astorbistro.com). Bus 10, 17, 61, 67, 129, 194. Open from 8pm Tue-Sat. Main courses $$$. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map B4.

El Baqueano Awarded 15th spot in the 2015 Latin American edition of the World’s 50 Best Restaurants competition (a highly coveted prize), this San Telmo eatery is no longer the hidden secret it once was.

The theme here is ‘carnes autóctonas’, meaning native meat. El Baqueano’s is perhaps one of the few menus in town that doesn’t include beef; chef and owner Fernando Rivarola instead favours Argentina’s more exotic fauna.

And yes, that means llama is on the menu, but in this case served in delicate slivers of carpaccio. Less famous meats include yacaré (caiman) enveloped in a gyoza dumpling with preserves from the yacaratiá tree, and smoked rhea with braised yucca. Original and surprisingly delicious, the tasting menu allows diners to savour delicacies like a millefeuille of duck and cream-cheese tart with strawberries, with wines to accompany each dish. Look out for monthly specials, when a top South American chef takes over the kitchen.

Chile 499, y Bolívar (4342 0802/www. restoelbaqueano.com). Subte C, Independencia/bus 29, 86, 93, 103, 111, 126, 159, 195. Open 8pmmidnight Tue-Sat. Set menu AR$650.

Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map B4.

Café Rivas Set on possibly the prettiest corner in San Telmo, Café Rivas has the air of a tearoom. Inside, it’s all retro wood and cake stands, and the occasional dramatic flash of fire as the chef does his thing in the open kitchen. The no-nonsense menu is a mix of classic Argentinian and comfort food – think milanesa, neat beef medallions and butternut squash raviolis, served with Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015/16 31

Restaurants

DIEGO QUIROGA

New in town Brasero Atlántico

Having already created one of BA’s best bars, Florería Atlántico (see p74), Tato Giovannoni has stepped into the restaurant scene. With a long bar in lieu of tables and a paired-down menu, Brasero Atlántico adopts a forward-thinking approach to the classic parrilla. Order a few entradas and for the main, pick from beef, chicken or pork and a selection of scrumptious grilled or pickled vegetables, and the chefs will assemble your custom plate as though you were at a friend’s Sunday asado. While modern in presentation, Brasero takes plenty of cues from the past; menu items like the negroni, mushrooms and bread pudding are courtesy of Giovannoni’s family recipes. And despite the small menu, the option to customise your main dish makes it one of the more vegetarian-friendly parrillas. Arroyo 882, y Suipacha, Retiro (4393 7450). Subte C, San Martín/bus 22, 60, 75, 90, 108, 150, 152. Open 11.30am-3.30pm, 6.30pm-1.30am Mon-Sat. Main courses $$$. Credit MC. Map D6.

a smile. But the place really comes into its own as a haven from the teeming streets of San Telmo on a Sunday afternoon; dart in here for a break from the street market madness for a coffee and decadent brownie or cupcake.

Come Thursday night, relax to the magical tinkling of a piano being played on the mezzanine floor.

Estados Unidos 302, y Balcarce (4361 5539). Bus 22, 24, 29, 130. Open 9am-midnight Tue-Sat; 11am-8pm Sun. Main courses $$. Lunch AR$120.

Credit AmEx, V. Map B4.

Caseros Passing Caseros on the street it is hard to resist going inside; huge windows open up to a blue and white dining room and kitchen that look to have been lifted straight out of a bistro in the French countryside. In lieu of flowers, bowls of lemons and oranges top each table for a pop of colour floating on white tablecloths. The cuisine matches the rustic-chic decor; if menus came with sound effects, Caseros’s carta would open to the thrum of a bustling market and the sound of grannies humming at their chopping boards. Everything is freshly made with locally sourced ingredients,

from the warm bread with herb butter, to the fresh prawn and tomato raviolis and ceviche. On a brisk day, nothing is more comforting than Caseros’s rich chocolate cake and rice pudding.

Avenida Caseros 486, entre Bolívar y Defensa (4307 4729/www.caseros restaurante.com.ar). Bus 24, 28, 29, 39, 46, 53, 61. Open 12.30-3.30pm, 8.30pm-midnight Tue-Sat. Main courses $$. Lunch AR$105. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map A3.

Chochán Slang for chancho in Spanish, Chochán pays a special tribute to the king of swine. The casual San Telmo spot welcomes pork-lovers with its kitsch design, communal tables and large chalkboard menus displaying a selected number of appetisers and sandwiches. Young chef Naiara Calviño uses every part of the pig to pump out oinking dishes like pulled pork, milanesa with a fried egg, home-made ham and purple pickled eggs, headcheese and blood sausage potato croquettes. An orgy of sauces are also dropped off at the table, including a spicy Sriracha mayonnaise that gives dishes a nice added heat.

Don’t miss the daily happy hour from

32 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015/16

7pm to 9pm, which features wine and aperitif specials.

Piedras 672, y Chile (4307 3661).

Subte E, Belgrano/bus 8, 10, 17, 29, 45, 53. Open 8pm-midnight Mon-Sat; noon-4pm Sun. Main courses $. No credit cards. Map B4.

Club Social This beautiful, cosy restaurant, with candles on the tables and an all-round French feel, is a popular spot for romancing couples. The menu is devoted to contemporary Argentinian comfort food such as grilled salmon with cream and white wine, and the ever-popular lomo in malbec sauce. The best of the puddings is the volcán de chocolate. With quietly efficient staff, a well-balanced wine list and a range of cocktails, this is a classy joint for drinks or dinner.

Avenida Caseros 442, entre Defensa y Bolivar (4307 1919). Bus 28, 29, 39, 152, 168. Open from 8pm daily; noon-4pm Fri-Sun. Main courses $$.

Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map A3.

Panadería de Pablo has found a way to mix elegance with a vibrant, lively atmosphere. The open-air terrace with a cocktail bar certainly doesn’t hurt the vibe, nor does the addition of a different DJ every Thursday night. Good music and drinks aside, the food is forever the star here. As is to be expected of a Pablo Massey venture, the menu is sophisticated and concise; smoked salmon bruschetta and margherita pizza are fresh and light, while the ribeye marinated in rosemary and thyme will satisfy the foreigner hankering after quality Argentinian steak. To unwind after a long week, there’s a varied Sunday brunch menu with the likes of a sophisticated goat’s cheese frittata and down-to-earth hash browns.

Defensa 269, y Moreno (4331 6728/ www.lapanaderiadepablo.com). Subte A, Plaza de Mayo/bus 29, 50, 61, 62, 64, 111, 129, 130, 143. Open 9am-6pm Mon-Wed; 9.30am-midnight Thu, Fri; 9am-midnight Sat; 10am-7pm Sun. Main courses $$. Lunch AR$189.

Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map B5.

La Panadería de Pablo Elegant, white linen filled restaurants often conjure up images of stodgy diners and fussy plates, but La

La Popular This colourful place is exactly what it claims to be: popular. The decor stands out here; you can find a bike and

Restaurants

you didn’t know you’d been craving – which is served with custard and vanilla ice-cream.

Carlos Calvo 571, y Perú (4300 7515/ www.casaborja.com). Bus 8, 24, 29, 93, 126, 152. Open from 8pm Thu-Sun; 12.30-4.30pm Sun. Main courses $$$.

Credit V. Map B4.

VEGETARIAN

Hierbabuena

vintage Cinzano adverts adorning the walls. The ambience is family friendly and the menu boasts healthy and delicious options. It doesn’t scream originality, but the ojo de bife and mushroom risotto are simply scrumptious. The prices are reasonable and the happy, down-to-earth clientele has made this a staple of the San Telmo dining scene.

Avenida Caseros 500, y Bolívar (4307 6040). Bus 29, 39, 70, 93, 152, 159.

Open 9am-5pm Mon; 9am-5pm, 8pm-12.30am Tue-Sun. Main courses $$$. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map A3. !El Refuerzo Pocket-sized El Refuerzo is basically a local’s ‘anti-fashion’ joint, but you get the impression the quirky, laid-back San Telmo regulars are happy to share their favourite spot with you. It’s the perfect place for an aperitif accompanied by quality cured hams, olives, local cheeses and hearty salads.

The four satisfyingly simple main dishes change daily, but expect beef and pasta to play a starring role. The wine list, scrawled on the blackboard, is excellent and well priced. With its black and white tiled floors, antique counter and cluttered wooden tables, this locale feels like a late-night hangout in post-war Rome – you half expect Marcello Mastroianni to scoot up on a Vespa and start flirting with the punters. If you can get enough of El Refuerzo, recreate its magic at home with supplies from the restaurant’s new shop El Refuerzo Provisiones (Estados Unidos 758).

Chacabuco 872, entre Avenida Independencia y Estados Unidos

(4361 3013). Subte C, Independencia/ bus 2, 10, 17, 29, 59, 86, 100. Open 10am-2am Tue-Sun. Main courses $$$. No credit cards. Map B4. !A FRENCH

essential here unless you’re planning to slip in for a quick bite at noon. During the daily lunch rush, chef Leandro Cristóbal fashions inventive tapas and pastas from the likes of sun-dried tomatoes, brie and seasonal vegetables, while his mother pours the wine. The daily menu is scrawled on chalkboards that are hauled around from table to table, resplendent with homely dishes like courgette-rich fettuccine, and meaty fare like ojo de bife and pork.

Avenida San Juan 450, y Bolívar (4300 1112). Subte C, San Juan/bus 4, 8, 22, 24, 28, 29, 33, 53, 61, 74, 86, 93, 126, 129, 130, 143, 152, 159.

Open 12.30-4pm Tue-Sun; 8pmmidnight Tue-Thu, Sun; 8pm-1am Fri, Sat. Main courses $$$$. No credit cards. Map B4.

Other location Chile 474, San Telmo (4300 9344).

Brasserie Petanque Brasserie Petanque is as French as it gets this side of the Atlantic; bottles of wine and Ricard pastis are stacked to the ceiling and the menu bristles with the sort of Gallic standards that are hard to tire of. All the bistro classics make an appearance, from boeuf bourguignon to escargots, served by a corps of efficient and friendly waiters.

For desserts, the crème brûlée sampler of vanilla, orange and pistachio is a refreshing take on the French standard.

If it’s Sunday, pitch up early or you won’t so much as get a glimpse of the confit de canard, not least since Petanque lies smack in the heart of San Telmo’s NEW Casa Borja Sunday market. Those Classic, unpretentious Brunch time travelling on through and extremely high Celebrate the weekend quality, Casa Borja, the Chile will have to stop at with brunch at Osaka first restaurant from Brasserie Petanque’s (see p40), Sucre (see Spanish celebrity chef Santiago branch. p64) or UCO (see Defensa 596, y México Borja Blázquez is p52).

(4342 7930/www. everything it should be. brasseriepetanque.com). Bus The rabas (deep fried squid) 24, 29, 86, 93, 103, 111, 126, have that perfect combination of a 129, 130, 143, 195. Open 12.30-4pm, light, juicy inside encased by a crunchy 8pm-midnight Tue-Sun. Main shell of goodness, the tortilla española courses $$. Lunch AR$160-$300. is simply heavenly and the bondiola Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map B4. (pork shoulder) is cooked for four hours and served with roast fennel and SPANISH sweet potato mash. Accompany your meal with one of the fine wines from Café San Juan the carefully curated list, and be sure to Café San Juan is no longer the bargain it was when it first opened, but leave room for the torrija de pan reservations are still more or less brioche – a cinammony bread pudding

34 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015/16

TOP TIP!

Hierbabuena While not strictly vegetarian (you’ll find the odd fish or chicken dish), cute, French-style Hierbabuena serves up sophisticated healthy grub. At this cosy San Telmo joint, colour abounds on every plate with vegetables so bright and fresh, even the pickiest kid (or most devoted carnivore) couldn’t resist. And for anyone who thinks vegetarian food can’t be filling, think again: hearty options like the tri-mushroom veggie burger, or home-made pizzas topped with caramelised onions, roasted aubergine, rocket and cherry tomatoes will satisfy every glutton (although Hierbabuena has plenty of freshly baked goods to round off a meal should you be left wanting more). It goes without saying that any meal, vegetarian or otherwise, calls for a jug or two of one of the famous fruit-infused lemonades. Visit on the weekend for the popular brunch menu or, to take some of that Hierbabuena goodness home with you, pop next door to the bakery and almacén.

Avenida Caseros 454, y Defensa (4362 2542/www.hierbabuena.com.ar). Bus 10, 29, 39, 70, 93, 129, 130, 143, 152, 195. Open 9am-5pm Mon; 9am-midnight Tue-Sun. Main courses $$. Lunch AR$150. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map A3. V

La Boca

ARGENTINIAN – TRADITIONAL

El Obrero El Obrero (literally ‘the worker’, which tells you a fair bit about the ambience of this place) is one of the city’s most famous restaurants, and celebrities from Bono to Wim Wenders have eaten at this living, thriving museum piece in the heart of the old port neighbourhood.

(The area is gritty, verging on lawless, so go with company and take a taxi there and back.) The decor is busy with photos of boxing and football stars, the paint is peeling and the toilet is a glorified outhouse, but this is a classic spot for a three-hour lunch or dinner.

Most people go for the parrilla items on the chalkboard, but there are also fair pasta and fish dishes, and the selection of old-style desserts like the sweet flan should finish you off nicely.

Agustín Caffarena 64, entre Ministro Brin y Caboto (4362 9912). Bus 25, 29, 68, 130, 152, 159, 168. Open noon-4.30pm, 8pm-1.30am Mon-Sat. Main courses $$$. No credit cards.

ITALIAN

Il Matterello The food takes centre stage in this crisp, clean, cantina-style La Boca eatery. A mixed plate of warm and

Restaurants Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015/16 35

Restaurants

cold antipasti serves to enliven the taste buds impressively in preparation for an excellent, al dente tagliatelle with rocket and a truly sumptuous fazzoletti alla carbonara. Straight-to-thepoint service and unpretentious decor help to accompany, but not out-twinkle, the star here, which shines brightly from the kitchen. Tourists can also get a bite of fresh pasta and tiramisu without the long trek to La Boca at Il Mattarello’s branch in Palermo Soho.

Martín Rodríguez 517, y Villafañe (4307 0529). Bus 8, 25, 29, 64, 86.

Open 12.30-3pm Tue-Sun; 8.30pmmidnight Tue-Sat. Main courses $$$.

Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map B2.

Other location Gorriti 5102, Palermo (4831 8493).

Constitución ARGENTINIAN – TRADITIONAL

Miramar Beloved by its barrio and by the mix of actors and local celebrities that frequent it, Miramar is an unpretentious restaurant boasting a well-stocked wine cellar and amiable and experienced waiters. It’s in one of the lesser known and less reputable parts of the city, but for something different and authentic, it’s worth the trip. The cooking is predominantly Spanish, and it’s extremely good.Sample rabbit in white wine, tortillas and oysters or prawns in garlic, while listening to

Local favourites Our contributors give us their picks for the best of BA’s food scene

Favourite empanada The pikachu at La Cocina (Avenida Pueyrredón 1508). This hole-in-the-wall serves my favourite empanada, which is filled with cheese and a hint of spice.

Favourite pizza The margherita at Siamo nel Forno (see p58). A taste of Naples made with fresh tomato sauce, fresh mozzarella cheese and olive oil.

Favourite cut of steak The entraña at Don Julio (see p46). I don’t know what grillmaster Pepe does, but the entraña (skirt steak) with just salt, chimichurri and salsa criolla is what dreams are made of.

Favourite sandwich The burger at Pony Line Bar (see p76). The cost might be in the triple digits, but it’s absolute perfection on a bun.

Favourite neighbourhood spot La Cresta (see p25) played a huge role in my decision to move to Almagro.

– Allie Lazar, freelance eater and writer Favourite cut of steak Ojo de bife (ribeye). My husband now grills like a local, though he hasn’t yet mastered cutting the bife with a spoon...

Favourite cocktail The Gauchito Gin from Rey de Copas (see p80). Gin with yerba maté: it’s sweeter than it sounds and is drunk through a bombilla, which beats a paper umbrella any night.

Favourite ice-cream Limsau from Jauja (Avenida Cerviño 3901). Like many of Jauja’s flavours, this elderflower and lemon concoction is unusual, fruity and extremely delicious.

Favourite sandwich Bondiola. The best ones, like that from La Pulpería (Uriarte 1667), are stuffed full of flavourful, falling-apart, slow-cooked pork.

Favourite neighbourhood spot Helena (Nicaragua 4816). My go-to local – complete with lovely staff – for a lazy breakfast or tasty sandwich and home-made lemonade.

– Sophie Parker, freelance writer Favourite empanada The humita from Cümen Cümen (Paraguay 4423). Light and subtle, the sweetness helps offset the heavier empanada flavours.

Favourite malbec Los Arboles. It won’t break the bank and always goes down very smoothly.

Favourite beer The Honey Beer at Jerome 36 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015/16

Brew Pub (Malabia 1401). It’s pricey, but at 8 percent alcohol content you don’t exactly need many.

Favourite sandwich The Jamaican at Burger Joint (see p44). There’s stiff competition from all the burgers at this place, which is hands down the best of its kind in the city.

Favourite neighbourhood spot Jerome’s beer garden. The good courtyard and happy hour offset the price tag.

– Orlando Jenkinson, journalist and writer Favourite empanada The creamy chicken and mushroom empanada from Bakano (Fitz Roy 1906) is a great hangover cure.

Favourite cut of steak I’m not a big fan of fatty meat so it’s a tie between entraña and lomo. I particularly love the entraña at Parrilla Secretito (Dorrego 2720).

Favourite malbec Hey Malbec. I’m a sucker for cool label designs, but I also really like the wine.

Favourite beer Anything on tap at Cervecería Nacional (see p78).

Favourite cocktail Smoked Bloody Mary at Olsen (see p61) – best drunk on a Sunday morning in this spot’s garden.

Favourite ice-cream Nutella from Rapanui (Arenales 2302) – just try it.

Favourite neighbourhood spot Blanch restaurant (see p54) for tapas.

– Sophie Lloyd, personal shopper Favourite empanada The ossobuco at Perón Perón (see p48). Juicy, meaty, tasty and succulent in one sexy little package. So what if it’s a stewing meat?

Favourite pizza Guerrín (Avenida Corrientes 1368). Even if I cross Corrientes, the pull of a Guerrín muzzarella will draw me back every time like a cheesy magnet.

Favourite cut of steak For a smoked beast, La Carnicería’s (see p48) daily special. For a classic, bleeding ojo de bife or entraña, Don Julio. For a dry aged something special, Elena (see p40), and for something photogenic, La Cabrera (see p44).

Favourite neighbourhood spot Cocina Sunae (see p51). In full disclosure, Christina Sunae is one of my best friends, but for a while I was her most regular paying customer.

– Sorrel Moseley-Williams, writer and sommelier

Restaurants Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015/16 37

Restaurants

mendocino – a smoky-crusted version with tomatoes, herbs and a fresh, tangy farmer’s cheese – among the pick of the pizzas. The regional foods shop, a changing roster of artwork by locals, theatre and frequent live music keep the place lively and there’s also a terrace for special events and outdoor seating.

Avenida Boedo 880, entre Estados Unidos y Carlos Calvo (4932 4299/ www.panyarte.com.ar). Subte E, Boedo/ bus 56, 75, 86, 115. Open 9ammidnight daily. Main courses $$.

Lunch AR$120. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D1.

Puerto Madero ARGENTINIAN – MODERN

Le Grill While traditional local steakhouses flourish in BA, not many spots have mastered modern parrilla food.

Overlooking the beautiful Puente de la Mujer bridge in Puerto Madero, Le Grill offers a unique spin on steak – it specalises in dry aged beef. Grass fed Hereford and Aberdeen Angus cattle are locally sourced from the Tandil countryside, and every cut is aged in a climate controlled room, located underneath the restaurant, for at least 28 days. Navigating the large menu may be a challenge, but start with an elaborate picada, a charcuterie platter of wonderful cheese and cured meats, before tucking into goat’s sweetbreads and the house speciality, a dry aged T-Bone steak. Wine lovers rejoice: the impressive cellar boasts a selection of over 3,000 bottles, and an exclusive private room for wine tastings.

Avenida Alicia Moreau de Justo 876 (4331 0454/legrill.com.ar/eng). Subte A, Plaza de Mayo/bus 64, 74, 86, 91, 93, 99, 103, 105, 109, 111, 126, 130.

Open 12.30-3pm, 7pm-midnight Mon-Fri; 7pm-1am Sat; 12.30-3pm Sun. Main courses $$$. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map B5.

Crizia (see p48)

crackly tangos. The joint’s famed rabo de toro (oxtail stew) has a limb-warming quality that’s verging on narcotic. You can also tuck into fresh centolla (king crab) on the weekends, or keep it light and split a cheeseboard and a bottle of wine.

Avenida San Juan 1999, y Sarandí (4304 4261). Subte E, Entre Ríos/bus 4, 12, 37, 50, 53, 62, 84, 90. Open 8am-1am Sun-Thu; 8am-2am Fri, Sat. Main courses $$. Lunch AR$100$200. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map C2.

ARGENTINIAN – MODERN

Aramburu Despite the rather dubious surroundings, it’s well worth ducking into this hothouse of culinary innovation to embark on a tastingmenu journey through Paris-infused Argentina. Diners are well taken care of here, as clued-up and friendly staff can decode the complex menu descriptions, and the open kitchen

allows chefs to come out and greet guests. Creativity abounds in every dish on a menu that changes seasonally. It’s that kind of innovation that draws food-lovers out to this rather neglected neighbourhood, which tourists rarely visit.

Salta 1050, y Humberto 1˚ (4305 0439/www.arambururesto.com). Subte C, San Juan/bus 9, 10, 12, 39, 45, 51 53, 59, 60, 67, 70, 102, 126, 154, 168, 195. Open 8.30-10.30pm Tue-Sat. Set menu AR$850; AR$1400 with wine. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map B3.

Aramburu Bis The second instalment from Gonzalo Aramburu (of the great Aramburu restaurant, see left), Bis sets the tone for a new kind of simple yet contemporary Argentinian bistro. The menu focuses on local seasonal ingredients and features daily specials and inventive house favourites (like ribeye and arroz con leche), while

38 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015/16

Argentina’s top sommelier, Agustina de Alba, carefully curates the spectacular wine list. Argentinian products and kitchen equipment fill the bright open space, with penguin shaped pitchers, spices, bottles of olive oil, freshly baked breads, aperitif bottles and shelves stacked with a range of wines.

Humberto 1˚ 1207, y Salta (4304 5697/www.aramburubis.com). Subte C, San Juan/bus 10, 51, 60, 67, 70, 79.

Open 12.30-3.30pm, 8.30-11.30pm Mon-Sat. Main courses $$. Lunch AR$150. No credit cards. Map B3.

Boedo

ARGENTINIAN – TRADITIONAL

Pan y Arte The oft-forgotten barrio of Boedo has become a hotspot for the food and art cognoscenti. Pan y Arte stands out as perhaps the only producer of Mendozan cooking in town, with pizza al campo

i Central Market This Puerto Madero multispace is perhaps the only place in Buenos Aires where you can indulge in a five-star meal at a luxury restaurant and get your grocery shopping done all in one space. This spot gracefully combines an ice-cream shop, deli, bakery, café and restaurant in one fell swoop, and is as much a feast for the eyes as it is for the stomach. Quality is the name of the game at i Central (the ‘i’ pronounced ‘eee’, meaning ‘to eat’ in Mapuche), and whatever you go for, it’s guaranteed to be fresh and additive-free. Sit by the restaurant’s long glass windows, watching the world of Puerto Madero rollerskate by while tucking into a ribeye steak. The original branch, i Fresh Market, is just up the way at Azucena Villaflor and Olga Cosettini.

Pierina Dealessi, y Macacha Güemes, Dique 4, Puerto Madero Este (5775 0330/www.icentralmarket.com.ar). Bus 4, 7, 180, 195. Open 8am-midnight Sun-Thu; 8am-1am Fri, Sat. Main courses $$$ in the restaurant; $ in the deli and tearoom. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map B6.

Restaurants

DIEGO QUIROGA

Dean and Dennys

El Mercado Loved, lauded and occasionally criticised, El Mercado tends to split opinions. But no one can deny that Philippe Starck was at his most inspired when he put El Mercado together: glittered portraits of local pop idol Sandro, Maradona and Che Guevara sit effortlessly against a collection of porcelain toy soldiers and judiciously selected lighting shines perfectly over the wooden tables and chairs. The centrepiece is an open-air parrilla, where choice cuts like a 17 oz. flank steak are cooked. Paired with grilled mushrooms, baby potatoes and poached egg, it makes for a perfect meal for two. You haven’t tried the full spectrum of empanadas until you’ve tried El Mercado’s lamb version.

Although two empanadas here may cost the same as a dozen elsewhere, hey, you’re only in Argentina, and for that matter, Faena, once.

Faena Hotel Buenos Aires, Martha Salotti 445, Dique 2 (4010 9200/www. faenahotelanduniverse.com). Subte B, LN Alem/bus 2, 111, 130. Open 7am-1am daily. Main courses $$$$.

Lunch AR$600. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map B5.

JAPANESE

Osaka This uber-stylish Peruvian-Japanese restaurant has the kind of chic decor to keep up with the nearby Faena Hotel (see p140). The samurai suit of armour adds a quirky touch to the interior, but

otherwise it’s pure, sleek minimalism. words. It’s eco-friendly with recycled materials used in the decor, social Sit by the bar, at one of the lacquered media savvy thanks to its heavy use of wood tables, or on the terrace outside Facebook, Twitter and Instagram, and order the tiraditos, creative sushi vegetarian-friendly with a doublerolls, or the excellent degustación de ceviches. The cocktails are arguably the decker mushroom-based mush burger and even pet-friendly to boot, with best BA has to offer. Try the ‘dog parking’ on-site and a Cucumber del Pacífico (gin, saké, dedicated menu for pooches. cucumber, pineapple and Hot dogs and salads are lychee), the most other stomach fillers, refreshing concoction Best vinos while the milkshakes Time Out’s ever gulped Time Out’s top, good make for a sweet finish down in one. Osaka is value wines include to any meal. also now offering Las Perdices’s malbec Junín 1721, y Vicente brunch, so you can stop and Nicasia’s López, Recoleta (4807 by for waffles with duck, cabernet franc.

4065). Bus 10, 17, 37. topped with honey and a Open noon-1am daily. fried egg, or other brunch Main courses $. Credit favourites with Osaka’s unique AmEx, V. Map E5. twist. Traditionalists can still enjoy Other locations. Malabia 1591, the normal sushi menu.

Juana Manso 1164, y Azucena Villaflor Palermo (4834 6101); Fitz Roy 1912, (5352 0404/www.osaka.com.pe). Bus 2, Palermo (4775 0141).

4, 20. Open 12.30-4pm, 8pm-midnight ARGENTINIAN – TRADITIONAL Mon-Thu, Sun; 8pm-12.30am Fri, Sat. Cumaná Main courses $$$$. Credit AmEx, Cumaná is the kind of restaurant that MC, V. Map B5. makes you feel hungry as soon as you Other location Soler 5608, Palermo walk in the door. Surrender to the (4775 6964). tantalising aromas, settle in at one of the rustic tables, and order some of the hearty, regional cuisine. Here’s your chance to try locro (a thick Argentinian stew), home-made empanadas, Argentinian-style tamales and lovely AMERICAN local wine. With reasonably priced food Dean & Dennys served piping hot from the horno de Providing fast food with a conscience, barro – a domed adobe oven used in Dean & Dennys hits all today’s buzz the north of Argentina – this country

TOP TIP!

Recoleta and Barrio Norte

40 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015/16

kitchen is hard to beat. Popularity like this comes at a cost: be prepared to queue for around an hour at weekends.

Rodríguez Peña 1149, entre Avenida Santa Fe y Arenales, Recoleta (4813 9207). Subte D, Callao/bus 12, 39, 60.

Open noon-5pm, 8pm-midnight daily.

Main courses $. No credit cards.

Map E5. !

ARGENTINIAN – MODERN

Elena Being Felix de Alzaga’s beloved wife Elena can’t have been bad. The opulent Louis XIII-style La Mansión (now part of the Four Seasons Hotel, see p141) was built for her in 1920, and 92 years later, the hotel restaurant has been named in her honour. Despite belonging to one of Buenos Aires’s fanciest hotels, the tone is refreshingly unpretentious: diners are encouraged to walk through the open kitchen to enter the restaurant, and the marble butcher’s table and glass dry-ageing case are on display just steps away from the tables. Top chef Juan Gaffuri dishes up the likes of glazed pork belly and Argentinian beef, while sommelier Sebastián Maggi matches wine to each dish. The charcuterie platters, piled high with tangy cheeses and finely sliced meats, are the especialidad de la casa, as is the home-made Sicilian ice-cream branded Dolce Morte (sweet death).

Posadas 1086/88, y Avenida 9 de Julio, Recoleta (4321 1748). Bus 70, 93, 100, 101, 106, 124, 129, 130, 152.

Restaurants Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015/16 41

Restaurants

DIEGO QUIROGA

provolone and onion ‘pizza’ – a creamy foam accompanied by a teaspoon of olive jelly. Can’t get enough? Book a room at the boutique hotel upstairs, Hub Porteño (see p141), and you can dine here every night.

Rodríguez Peña 1967, y Posadas, Recoleta (6091 2160/www.tarquino restaurante.com.ar). Bus 39, 60. Open 12.30-2.30pm, 8-11.30pm Mon-Sat. Main courses $$$$. Lunch AR$480$550. Tasting menu AR$950-$1300.

Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map E5. A INDIAN

New in town Brandon

Palermo has no shortage of stylish eateries to pick from, but take a stroll past Brandon and it’s hard not to be captivated by the elegant marble bar, striking light fixtures and soaring ceilings. The menu is equally captivating, with both elegant takes on Argentinian classics – goat’s cheese provoleta with almonds, rocket and sundried tomatoes – and international influences – breaded coconut shrimp with sriracha. And though almost every kind of meat makes an appearance, there are plenty of vegetarian and vegan options as well.

Open for every meal of the day (in BA that’s breakfast, brunch, lunch, merienda and dinner), Brandon is consistently packed out at each one. Fitz Roy 1722, y Honduras (4776 2014/www.brandonrestaurant.com). Bus 39, 57, 93, 108, 111, 140, 151. Open 8.30am-1am Sun-Thu; 8.30am-2am Fri, Sat. Main courses $$$. Lunch AR$120-$170. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H2. A V

Open 7-11am, 12.30-3.30pm, 7.30pm-12.30am daily. Main courses $$$$. Lunch AR$325. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D5. !Gran Bar Danzón The contemporary, cosmopolitan menu at this resto-bar includes only the most luxurious, and sometimes exotic, ingredients: grilled lobster over banana blintzes, veal sweetbreads – and those are just the starters. Main courses like herb-crusted rack of lamb and home-made prawn linguini in a saffron broth continue the theme, and there are sushi and sashimi options for a lighter meal. There’s a lounge-like ambience to this space, replete with low sofas and glowing candles. An extensive wine list includes good options by the glass – just as well, since the prices weigh in at the upper end of the scale. Cocktails, both classic and original, will quench your thirst. Try the Sushi Mary – a Japanese take on the bloody mary with saké and wasabi – served with a pretty little sushi roll.

Libertad 1161, entre Avenida Santa Fe y Arenales, Recoleta (4811 1108/ www.granbardanzon.com.ar). Subte D, Tribunales/bus 39, 70, 75, 100, 102, 140, 150, 152. Open Restaurant 7pm-1am Mon-Fri; 8pm-1.30am Sat, Sun. Bar from 7pm daily. Main courses $$. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D5. A

Harturo Tucked down a quiet cobblestone passageway away from the city’s clamour, the beautifully renovated Harturo restaurant (previously known as Sirop Folie) is the perfect hideaway for a leisurely but indulgent meal.

Elegance and comfort are entwined at this charming restaurant, and though the menu is seasonal, you can always expect locally-influenced rich flavours.

Time Out devoured a goat’s cheese crème brûlée and a succulent Milanese-style pork rib with a cheese and sage crust. Just be sure to save room for one of the irresistible desserts; the Belgian chocolate fondant with salted toffee is heavenly.

Weekends offer an enticing brunch menu of classic dishes like ratatouille, gravlax and eggs Benedict.

Unit 12, Vicente López 1661, y Montevideo (4813 5900). Bus 37, 39.

Open noon-4pm, from 8pm Tue-Fri; 11am-4pm Sat, Sun; from 8pm Sat. Main courses $$$. Lunch AR$160.

Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map E5.

Roux There’s something deceptively simple sounding about the dishes at this white-tablecloth bistro. Plates like couscous and prawn salad and trout with green quinoa seem easy enough, but in chef Martín Rebaudino’s hands, even the most humble cauliflower

42 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015/16

purée becomes an artful amuse-bouche.

Save room for a dessert topped with home-made ice-cream, particularly if you spot one of the refreshing sorbets like grapefruit and orange-pineapple.

Rebaudino honed his skills at Oviedo (see p44), and it shows in the exquisite seafood-based dishes and presentation at Roux. The front of house service is impeccable, and the wine list includes varieties not often seen in BA, like pinot noir, cabernet franc and sémillon.

Peña 2300, y Azcuénaga, Recoleta (4805 6794/www.rouxresto.com). Bus 10, 17. Open 12.30-3.30pm, 8pmmidnight Mon-Sat. Main courses $$$$. Credit AmEx, V. Map E4.

Tarquino Named after the daddy of Argentinian meat (Tarquino was the first bull brought from the Scottish highlands to the Argentinian pampas), this gourmet restaurant is an elegant homage to its mother country. From the llama textile walls to the smooth leather tabletops, everything was hand-picked from artisans across the country, but the pièce de résistance is the 70-year-old ficus tree, sprouting through the restaurant’s glass ceiling. Showing off the skills he picked up at Spain’s internationally acclaimed El Bulli restaurant, head chef Dante Liporaci lets his imagination run wild with delightfully quirky dishes such as

Tandoor One of very few Indian restaurants in BA, Tandoor has happily satisfied many a craving for food from the subcontinent. The restaurant’s modern, authentic dishes are enhanced by an airy environment, which makes eating here a pleasure.

Spices are imported from India, as are the chefs and the tandoor oven. As well as classics like chicken tikka masala, the menu includes several tasty lamb dishes.

Laprida 1293, y Charcas, Barrio Norte (4821 3676/www.tandoor.com.ar).

Subte D, Agüero/bus 12, 39, 92, 111, 118, 140, 152. Open noon-3.30pm, 8-11.30pm Mon-Fri; 8pm-midnight Sat, Sun. Main courses $$$. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map E4. V ITALIAN

La Locanda It took a true Sardinian to show Argentinians how Italian food should be done. Chef and owner Daniele Pinna makes Italian food come to life thanks to his boisterous personality and passion for cooking, feeding and pleasing stomachs with his rustic home-style food. Pinna brings a slice of Italy to Buenos Aires in the form of perfect pillows of gnocchetti in a lamb ragu, fresh grilled octopus and porcini mushroom risotto. Food aside, La Locanda’s home vibe has made it a favourite barrio joint among locals. For a special private dining experience, book the chef’s table in the basement.

Pagano 2697, y Tagle, Recoleta (4806 6343). Bus 60, 92, 93, 110, 118, 128, 130. Open 8pm-midnight Tue-Sat; noon-4pm Fri-Sun. Main courses $$$.

Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map F5.

Piola With locations scattered across the Americas, this Treviso-born pizzeria chain has gourmet pie-tossing down to a science: roll the thinnest crust possible, top with fresh greens and sharp cheeses, and serve in a slick space. Salads and authentic pasta are on the menu too, but your best bet is a signature pizza – the smoked salmon and rocket-topped Rimini, or the leafy Praga, a white pizza piled with rocket, chicken and parmesan shavings.

Libertad 1078, y Avenida Santa Fe, Recoleta (4812 0690/www.piola.it). Bus 39, 60, 67, 111, 132, 140. Open noon-2am Mon-Fri; 7pm-3am Sat; 7pm-2am Sun. Main courses $$.

Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D5.

Other location Gorriti 5751, Palermo (4777 3698).

Restaurants Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015/16 43

Restaurants Il Ballo del Mattone (see p56)

PERUVIAN

La Causa Nikkei In a city full of cheap and expensive Peruvian restaurants, La Causa Nikkei fills a gap by serving up well-priced Peruvian fusion food in the heart of Recoleta. The decoration is modern and industrial with an open kitchen, a large patio, booth seating and shelves stacked with large, multi-coloured bottles. As for the food – it’s mainly Peruvian, the lomo salteado, ají de gallina, and seco de carne all come in large portions, while there’s a long list of Japanese sushi fusion specials and ceviches for those on a healthier diet.

Brisk service and well-executed, delicious cocktails make this a fine option. Book in advance if possible as this place gets busy.

Avenida Callao 1290, y Juncal, Recoleta (5218 0900/www.lacausanikkei.com).

Bus 12, 17, 60, 93, 106. Open noon-3.30pm, 8pm-midnight daily.

Main courses $$. Lunch AR$144.

Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map E5.

SPANISH

Oviedo Oviedo has a bit of a clubbish atmosphere and is a favourite with businessmen and political hacks. But never mind the clientele. Here, classic Iberian dishes are prepared with great care and attention to detail. Tortilla a la española, grilled chipirones, baked clams and oven-baked white fish are savoury reminders of the old country,

each one faithful to tradition but still Muu Lechería This diner-style café brings special in its own right. For locally Americana to Palermo with its hot sourced fish, try the bacalao (cod). The dogs, cupcakes and cheery interior. staff are of the old-fashioned variety: The Chubby Checker burger comes attentive, professional gentlemen in with gruyère, onion rings and bow ties, while the wine list is barbecue sauce, but there one of Buenos Aires’s best. are also substantial Beruti 2602, y Ecuador, salads for those Barrio Norte (4822 Try it all hankering after 5415/www.oviedoresto.

For a taste of all of something lighter. The com.ar). Subte D, Argentina’s best food, milkshakes are Pueyrredón/bus 12, 64, head to The Argentine unmissable and the 152. Open noonExperience (www.the breakfast choices midnight Mon-Sat. Main argentineexperiinclude pancakes and courses $$$. Credit ence.com).

French toast. While the AmEx, MC, V. Map E4. prices aren’t quite out of the 1950s, Muu is an original and family-friendly option.

Armenia 1810, entre Nicaragua y AMERICAN Costa Rica (4831 3168/www.mundo Burger Joint muu.com.ar). Bus 15, 34, 36, 39, 55, Bringing food porn to the burger 57, 168. Open 9.30am-midnight scene, BJ offers perfectly cooked daily. Main courses $. Credit burgers, like the spicy Mexican or AmEx, MC. Map G3.

Jamaican, hand-cut French fries and Other location Recoleta Mall, home-made curried ketchup, which Recoleta (4802 8126). are all firm favourites of expats and ARGENTINIAN – TRADITIONAL locals. Owner Pierre Chacra pleases the Palermo crowds with a cool and Las Cabras kitsch spot where diners take their Meat-lovers have been queuing up to burger-and-fries-induced creativity to get tables at this parrilla since it the walls, writing and drawing opened. It’s been a great success in the messages alongside movie posters overcrowded Palermo eating scene for and pop culture references. the simple reason that it serves good Jorge Luis Borges 1766, y Costa Rica quality food, and lots of it. The prices (4833 5151). Bus 15, 34, 36. Open may seem high, but considering the noon-midnight daily. Main courses immense portion sizes, this parrilla offers the most bang for your buck. $. No credit cards. Map G3. !

TOP TIP!

Palermo

44 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015/16

The mixed grill has enough meat for three and includes two types of chorizo and all the offal you can imagine.

Vegetarians are catered for too, and even the wine list ticks the value-formoney box. Colouring crayons are provided so that you or your children can doodle away on the paper tablecloths. With all this to offer, this place is popular: if you’re going at the weekend, get there before 9.30pm or forget it.

Fitz Roy 1795, y El Salvador (4774 5617). Bus 39, 57, 93, 108, 111, 140.

Open noon-1am daily. Main courses $$. No credit cards. Map H2. !

La Cabrera Listed in just about every guidebook and blog, it’s safe to say La Cabrera is a reliable place to experience a traditional Argentinian parrilla. On an attractive corner site that used to be a general store, professional staff serve extra-large portions of expertly prepared meat. Standouts include flank steak, steak-sized sweetbreads and stuffed pork shoulder. Though traditional to its core, La Cabrera adds some twists to its side dishes, such as the quail egg potato salad. Don’t order too much: half portions will be fine for even the hungriest, especially as every cut of beef comes with a smattering of sides, like mashed potatoes and pumpkin. The sister restaurants, La Cabrera Norte and La Cabrera

Restaurants

Boutique, have helped cut waiting times, but now more than ever, a reservation is advised.

Cabrera 5127/5099, entre Thames y Uriarte (4832 5754/www.parrillala cabrera.com.ar). Bus 34, 39. Open 12.30-4.30pm, 8.30pm-midnight Mon-Fri; 8.30pm-1am Sat, Sun. Main courses $$$$. Lunch AR$220.

Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2.

Other location Cabrera 5065, Palermo (4832 2259). !Don Julio Don Julio doesn’t mess with parrilla classics; the buzzing Palermo grill just does them to perfection, and its panache was recognised in 2015, as it entered the Latin America 50 Best Restaurants list for the first time. A basket of fresh bread and chimichurri will warm up your appetite before you pick out your favourite cut of meat from the excellent selection (the lomo and entraña are exquisite). And thanks to owner Pablo, who sends his waiters to wine school, your server will know just how to help you choose the malbec or cabernet that best complements your beef. For vegetarians, a glass of wine will equally complement a hearty plate of pumpkin-stuffed sorrentinos. The decor is rustic-chic, and the leather tablecloths and exposed brick walls stacked with signed wine bottles add to the warm atmosphere.

Guatemala 4691, y Gurruchaga (4831 9564/www.parilladonjulio.com.

ar). Bus 15, 34, 36, 39, 55, 57, 110.

Open noon-4pm, 7pm-1am daily.

Main courses $$$. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3.

and it’s no wonder Las Horas is a firm hit with locals.

Paraguay 4601, y Thames (4773 2078). Subte D, Plaza Italia/bus 10, 29, 59, 60, 152. Open noon-5pm, 7.30pm-midnight daily. Main courses $$$. Lunch AR$140-$150. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3.

La Dorita In this parrilla kitted out with junk chandeliers and pop-art mixed media, families rub elbows with local celebs.

But the A-list star here is the Lo de Jesús meat. A tabla de carnes (three This upmarket parrilla beef cuts of your choice) began life in 1953 as a arrives sizzling in its own grocery store-cum-bar juices. Grilled provolone Hidden restaurants run by a Spaniard called cheese – crisp on the To find out about the Don Jesús Pernas. Since outside, oozing within – cooks inviting strangers then, it has had a and fried potatoes with round for dinner, see complete makeover, but onion make the perfect www.cookapp. retains its old-school side dishes. The wine list is com. charm. Over 270 wines line short but knowing, with many the shelves, the walls are covered of the quality mid-range malbecs in vintage photos and the original available in half-litre jugs.

Humboldt 1892, y Costa Rica (4776 wood panelling and black and white 5653/www.parrillaladorita.com.ar). chequered floor have been retained.

Bus 39, 93, 108. Open 8am-2am daily. Try the ojo de bife with malbec or opt Main courses $$. Lunch AR$150. for the bargain lunch deal during the Credit V. Map H3. week – three courses and a drink for just AR$160.

Las Horas Gurruchaga 1406, y Cabrera (4831 Set in a renovated mansion, Las 1961/www.lodejesus.com.ar). Bus 39, Horas is an elegant new addition to 55, 57, 110. Open noon-4pm, the Palermo parrilla scene. Though 7.30pm-1am daily. Main courses $$$. the menu offers all the usual Lunch AR$160. Credit AmEx, MC, V. suspects, there are also options for Map G2. the adventurous asado-lover, including a vegetable parrilla and a Minga salad of sun-dried tomatoes, dried As a steakhouse with trendy boutiques figs, mozzarella and rocket. Add and cafés for neighbours, it’s only that to impeccable service and fitting that Minga is elegantly outfitted hunks of carne cooked to perfection, with beige, glass and distressed wood

46 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015/16

TOP TIP!

furnishings. Large slabs of steak are still the star, but are presented on elegant cutting boards with tiny saucers of chimichurri and garlic.

Accompaniments like grilled goat’s cheese with rocket and a creamy potato gratin are presented just as beautifully in individual cast iron skillets. Minga pushes the boundaries of the parrilla, but purists need not despair: the menu still offers all the traditional Argentinian staples.

Costa Rica 4528, entre Armenia y Malabia (4833 5775/www.minga parrilla.com.ar). Bus 39, 55, 168.

Open from noon daily. Main courses $$. Lunch AR$130-$150. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H3.

Miranda This fashionable contemporary parrilla is a steakhouse for the trend-conscious carnivore: instead of chips or mashed potatoes, the solomillo de cerdo (pork loin) and Patagonian lamb come with caramelised vegetables and fruits. The Jacinta salad, tossed with grilled chicken and squash, and the polenta, provolone cheese and vegetable stack are just two of many highly recommendable dishes on offer. This parrilla’s quality and creativity pull in the punters week after week.

Costa Rica 5602, y Fitz Roy (4771 4255/www.parrillamiranda.com). Bus 34, 39, 57, 93, 111, 140, 151, 168.

Open 9am-1am Mon-Thu, Sun; 9am-2am Fri, Sat. Main courses $$$.

Lunch AR$134. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H3.

Restaurants

Perón Perón Only in Argentina would anyone dream up a restaurant like Perón Perón: an all-guns-blazing tribute to Argentina’s original power couple and the working class Peronist movement. Historic photos, political graffiti, portraits of power couple Cristina and Néstor Kirchner and antiques from the 1940s and 1950s cover every inch of the place, while taking centre stage is an elaborate Evita shrine. The menu too is peppered with cheeky political references; the house wine has a picture of Perón himself on it and even the beer here is Peronist. Both make for a refreshing way to wash down a plate of freshly-fried ossobuco empanadas or the pacú – a fish caught locally. Stick around long enough and you’re bound to hear the Peronist march blasting from the jukebox, with at least some customers singing and clapping along.

We can’t imagine a Maggie Thatcher themed restaurant having quite the same following.

Carranza 2225, entre Paraguay y Guatemala (4777 6194). Subte D, Ministro Carranza/bus 12, 15, 29, 39, 41, 55, 57, 60, 67, 93, 108, 111, 152.

Open 6pm-3am Mon-Thu; 6pm-4am Fri; 7pm-4am Sat. Main courses $$.

No credit cards. Map H3.

El Preferido de Palermo Regarded as a site of historical interest by the city of Buenos Aires, this is a no-frills, highly authentic restaurant set

within a traditional grocery store. fried egg. If a trip to La Carnicería isn’t already on your to-do list, you’d better Argentinian comfort foods are rewrite your agenda. favourites here; plates like the fabada Thames 2317, entre Charcas y Güemes asturiana (white beans, chorizo sausage and bacon), and the cazuela de (2071 7199). Subte D, Plaza Italia/bus 10, 12, 29, 39, 60. Open 8pmmariscos a la provenzal (seafood stew) midnight Tue-Sun; 1-3.30pm Sat, Sun. are not likely to be updated anytime Main courses $$$. Credit AmEx, soon. Sip on excellent local wine and graze on assorted Spanish tapas while MC, V. Map G3. you make a mental note to read Borges Casa Cavia in the original, now that you’ve dined Originally designed in 1927, by the on the corner where the author claims Norwegian architect Alejandro that BA began.

Chirstophersen, Casa Cavia is Guatemala 4801, y Jorge Luis now a beautifully restored Borges (4774 6585). two-storey town house Subte D, Plaza Italia/bus that includes a 34, 36, 39, 160. Open restaurant, bar, bookshop Street feast noon-4pm, 8pmThe out of town Feria de and library with a florist midnight Mon-Sat. Mataderos (see p110) and perfumery tagged Main courses $$. is a great place to gorge onto the open courtyard.

Credit AmEx, MC, V. on Argentinian Star chef Pablo Massey Map G3. street food. and Inés de los Santos have taken care of food and ARGENTINIAN – MODERN drink respectively, and the menu La Carnicería includes artichoke risotto with crispy Small and stylish La Carnicería is a bacon and a divine ojo de bife with parrilla with a modern twist. The meat roasted tomatoes and a fresh herb is glorious enough on its own, but the chimichurri sauce. If you don’t fancy a side dishes have such panache it’s only whole meal, you can always stop by for a matter of time before every parrilla a cocktail in the lovely courtyard. in the barrio produces a copycat. A bife Cavia 2985, y Castex (4801 9693/ de chorizo or slab of pork might come www.casacavia.com). Bus 37, 67, 102, with pumpkin and orange mash, a 110, 128, 130, 188. Open 8.30amcreamy jacket potato or a paste of 9.30pm Mon-Wed; 8.30am-11.30pm fresh dates, while a classic provoleta is Tue, Thu, Fri; 10am-9.30pm Sat. Main topped with a slice of peach and the courses $$$. Credit AmEx, MC, V. chorizo is adorned with peas and a Map G5. A

48 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015/16

Crizia A high-ceilinged, New York-style dining room, sophisticated cocktails and a long oyster bar set the scene for a Sex and the City-style get-together with your besties (the elegant ones that dress and behave well, that is). If you’re in the mood for a date night, the dining room’s soft lighting and mellow tunes keep things thoroughly romantic, making it an ideal spot to take someone special (as an added bonus, Crizia’s oyster bar is also a standout). The impeccably presented cuisine is

EZEQUIEL POCCARD

Don Julio (see p46)

TOP TIP!

Casa Cruz Long standing Casa Cruz has relaunched and reloaded under the careful eye of Aldo Graziani, of popular joints Aldo’s Vinoteca (see p31) and BeBop (see p130), serving a modern take on porteño classics with speciality house cocktails and impressive wines, all in a luxurious and comfortable setting. Mains include spiced pulpo (octopus), lomo with wild mushrooms on a bed of mashed potato and the best of the bunch; a 400g bife de chorizo with fried egg on an onion patty. Extra tip: be sure to take lots of selfies in the impressive bathroom with its wine cava views.

Uriarte 1658, y Pasaje Santa Rosa (4833 1112/www.casacruz-restaurant. com). Bus 34, 39, 55, 108, 140, 151, 166, 168. Open noon-4pm, from 7pm Mon-Sat. Main courses $$$. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2.

Janio Just across the road from Plaza Armenia and replete with outdoor seating and a huge, multi-tiered interior, Janio is located in the equivalent of the executive corner office of Palermo Soho.

A block that sees countless tourists and locals on a daily basis has to offer a little something for everyone, and Janio, (with dishes like beef stir-fry, lasagne and milanesa on its menu) certainly does.

Lunch specials are well-priced for the neighbourhood, but Janio has clientele at just about every hour of the day enjoying a generous glass of malbec and watching Palermo go by.

Malabia 1805, y Costa Rica (4833 6540/www.janiorestaurant.com). Bus 15, 36, 39, 55, 57, 106, 110, 111.

Open 8am-1am Sun-Thu; 8am-4am Fri, Sat. Main courses $$$. Lunch AR$95. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3.

Museo Evita Restaurante Museum restaurants can be hit or miss, but the lunch experience at Museo Evita’s restaurant is a far cry from standing in a cafeteria-style queue for overpriced bottled water and a grilled panini. Housed in the same ritzy antique residence that once served as a women’s shelter run by Eva Perón’s foundation, the restaurant offers two appealing venues – a black-and-white tiled courtyard and the cosy-chic dining room, decorated with tasteful Evita memorabilia. The rocket salad with figs, brie, artichoke and jamón crudo makes for a sensational and sophisticated lunch. The dinner menu tends towards heartier dishes like risotto, pastas and steaks. On balmier nights on the patio, a passionfruit mousse and a generous glass of malbec are well worth lingering over. You can also pick up souvenirs, from dedicated bottles of wine to Evita T-shirts, in the museum’s excellent shop.

Juan María Gutiérrez 3926, y República de la India (4800 1599/www. museoevitaresto.com). Subte D, Plaza Italia/bus 10, 12, 15, 29, 108, 110.

Open 9am-midnight Mon-Sat; 9am-7pm Sun. Main courses $$$.

Lunch AR$140-$190. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G4. V NC Freud & Fahler There’s a real neighbourhood feeling to this fine restaurant and patisserie. Set on a quiet corner with plenty of good wines (try the Animal chardonnay) and fresh bread, it makes for an elegant spot for lunch or a night out. An impressive flip clock from an Italian train station hanging on the wall is just one example of the restaurant’s semi-industrial 1950s aesthetic, with a

straightforward decor of white marble tabletops and low-hanging bubble lamps. Stop by for the wickedly good torta húmeda de chocolate amargo in the afternoon, or treat yourself to the exotic dishes inspired by chef and owner Pablo Lykan’s travels. The Patagonian lamb proves that beef most definitely isn’t the only meat worth sampling in Argentina.

Cabrera 5300, y Godoy Cruz (4771 3652). Bus 34, 39, 55, 93, 140. Open 12.30-3.30pm, 8.30pm-1am Mon-Sat. Pastelería from 12.30pm Mon-Sat. Main courses $$$. Lunch AR$120$210. No credit cards. Map G3.

Restaurants

Mediterranean-Argentinian fusion, with just a splash of oriental. There’s plenty of tempting seafood on the menu, but for a meal to warm you up on a cold winter night, try the braised Patagonian lamb followed by chocolate soufflé with white chocolate sauce.

Gorriti 5143, entre Uriarte y Thames (4831 4979/www.crizia.com.ar). Bus 34, 39, 55, 108, 140. Open 7.30pm1am Mon-Sat. Main courses $$$$.

Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2. A

!Paraje Arévalo Cited as many a restaurant reviewer’s favourite spot, Paraje Arévalo has certainly gained a glowing reputation among Buenos Aires’s food-lovers. It’s no surprise really, seeing as chefowners Matías Kyriazis and partner Estefanía di Benedetto met during their stint at the Michelin-starred Fat Duck in the UK. They certainly learnt a thing or two, as the tasting menus (choose from six to ten courses) feature innovative dishes such as pepper and coriander crusted sirloin and salmon cooked at 55 degrees in beetroot juice.

As for the decor, it’s charmingly understated: the tiled black and white floor, crisp white linen tablecloths, blackboard menu and vintage bike propped against the wall give the place a cosy, unpretentious feel, while the knowledgeable and friendly staff make sure every customer is extremely well looked after.

Arévalo 1502, y Cabrera (4775 7759/ www.parejaarevalo.com). Bus 39, 93, 108, 111, 140, 151, 168. Open from 8pm Tue-Sat. Tasting menus $$$$.

Credit V. Map H2. !Las Pizarras Tucked away in a quiet part of Palermo, this tiny restaurant is almost invisible from the outside, but once inside the black cast iron doors, there’s a warm, glowing ambience, buzzing with the low hum of conversation and clinking wine glasses. This stylish but laid-back restaurant has no menu, just a list of creative concoctions made from whatever owner and chef, Rodrigo Castilla (ex chef tournant to Gary Rhodes), has bought fresh from the market that day. Those concoctions are scrawled on huge chalkboards (pizarras) hung around the walls; sketches of ducks, corn stalks, carrots and rabbits next to the descriptions can give you a clue of the ingredients if your Spanish fails you. Although dishes are often based on Argentinian classics, this restaurant is truly one of a kind. If you are feeling adventurous, ask Rodrigo to order for you.

Thames 2296, y Charcas (4775 0625/ www.laspizarrasbistro.com). Subte D, Plaza Italia/bus 10, 12. Open from 8pm Tue-Sun. Main courses $$.

Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3.

Ralph’s Jorge Fernández Moreno had a dream.

An upmarket bar and bistro where the well-heeled could enjoy an entire Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015/16 49

Restaurants

Paladar

Behind closed doors Time Out’s pick of Buenos Aires’s best puertas cerradas

A

rriving at a chef’s home is a bit like going to a dinner party, but everyone’s a stranger – at least for the first few minutes.

Puertas cerradas (closed-door restaurants) offer set menus for a fixed price (take cash as credit cards are rarely accepted) and booking is always required – addresses are provided when you reserve.

Barraco This gorgeous puerta cerrada is the latest venture from the chef of award-winning restaurant Paraje Arévalo (see p49). Step past the sliding doors of the restaurant’s vinoteca to a semi-private dining room, and grab a seat at the bar to watch the chefs work their magic.

The nine-course tasting menu has dishes that sound humble enough – burrata and cherry tomatoes, cured beef with potatoes, and yoghurt and strawberries – but the decadent burrata is made in-house, the meat is perfectly-cooked and garnished with wholegrain mustard and the strawberry-flavoured yoghurt is flash-frozen with edible flowers.

! Location Palermo (4773 6119/ parajearevalo@gmail.com). Bus 39, 41, 151, 168. Open enquire about reservations. Set menu AR$580.

Casa Coupage At Casa Coupage you can expect the drinks to be every bit as spectacular as the food. The brains behind the outfit, Santiago Mymicopulo and Inés Mendieta, are both sommeliers, so alongside your dainty portions of melon gazpacho, Camembert ravioli and confit lamb shoulder, there are specially selected wine pairings. As well as the set menus there are à la carte options and wines by the glass. ! Location Palermo (4777 9295/ www.casacoupage.com). Bus 34, 39, 108, 111. Open from 8.30pm Wed-Sat. Set menu AR$560.

Casa Felix At Casa Felix, Diego and his wife Sanra invite guests into their Chacarita home for a five-course tasting menu. Each dish, usually vegetable or fish based, is made from exotic produce sourced during

50 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015/16

the couple’s travels – and often from the back garden. Past menus have included sopes (thick, fluffy corn tortillas) with guacamole, and figs stewed in malbec to start, and for a hearty main course, home-made tamales. A small selection of Argentinian wines are available to purchase, and the couple also offer cooking classes. ! Location Chacarita (mobile 15 4147 8100/www.colectivofelix. com). Bus 39, 72, 90, 111, 127.

Open from 9.30pm Thu-Sat. Set menu AR$390. V Casa Saltshaker Chef and sommelier Dan Perlman cooks up a different five-course meal each week for the ten privileged guests who sit round the communal table of his lovely home.

The delicately balanced, exquisite dishes blend Mediterranean and Andean flavours and are paired with five delectable Argentinian wines.

Past menus have included baked sea bass with spicy artichoke purée and fluke ceviche with yellow chilli and passionfruit.

! Location Barrio Norte (www. casasaltshaker.com). Subte D, Pueyrredón/bus 59, 60, 92, 93, 101. Open from 8.45pm Wed-Sat. Set menu AR$800.

La Cocina Discreta Since opening in 2007, La Cocina Discreta has been a pioneer in the closed-door dining scene, but despite its success it remains as ‘discreet’ as ever. Success does have its perks of course, as chef Ale Langer was recently able to relocate his private dining room from Villa Crespo to a more ample home on the edge of Palermo. The gorgeous pehache doubles as a speakeasy, art gallery and event space, so stop by for cocktails, tapas and live music or get the full Cocina Discreta experience with the eclectic four-course menu. Langer mixes Argentinian flavours with international cuisines like French, Indian and Brazilian, so the menu may include anything from spicy samosas to tenderloin with carmelised fennel.

! Location Palermo (4772 3803/ www.lacocinadiscreta.com). Bus 39, 140, 151, 168. Open from 8pm Thu-Sat. Set menu AR$360.

i Latina In a city where tropical flavours are scarce, i Latina satisfies many a craving with its Caribbean-Latin American seven-course menu. Held in a magnificent house, this upscale dining experience headed by the Colombian Macías brothers is just as much about presentation and service as it is about gourmet food.

While the set menu changes weekly, you can expect playful dishes such as octopus ceviche Nikkei with an avocado foam, or coffee-braised lamb in a green plantain cream. ! Location Villa Crespo (4857 9095/www.ilatinabuenosaires.com).

Bus 15, 55. Open from 8pm TueSat. Set menu AR$900; AR$1380 with wine.

Jueves a la Mesa Thai, Moroccan, Caribbean and Mexican are just a few of the cuisines US expat Meghan Lewis and her team cook every week.

The menu changes fortnightly, but consistently offers creative, unpretentious vegetarian cuisine.

The communal table and open kitchen means there’s no divide between diners and chefs, and guests can converse while passing around bottles of organic wine.

Dessert comes in the form of home-made dark chocolates, often infused with spices like pink pepper. ! Location San Telmo (mobile 15 6200 0004/www.juevesalamesa. wordpress.com). Subte E, Belgrano/bus 24, 28. Open from 8.30pm Thu. Set menu AR$250. V Kensho Named after the Buddhist term for awakening, minimalist Kensho is housed in a building made from recycled materials and focuses on

Restaurants

Cocina Sunae Every week Christina Sunae Wiseman cooks up a new medley of South-east Asian flavours at her gorgeous Colegiales home. The four courses rotate between Thai, Vietnamese, Philippine and occasionally Malaysian or Indonesian dishes, but the mix of spicy, sweet, salty and sour is always perfectly harmonised. Thai tom kha soup and Vietnamese spring rolls will whet your appetite for main courses like braised pork doused in a coconut curry. Spice fiends can ask for an extra bit of heat, although if you overdo it, Time Out recommends the ginger kamikaze cocktail as a way to put out the flames. A pot of hot tea and a stunning dessert are lovely ways to end a satisfying meal. ! Location Colegiales (mobile 15 4870 5506/www.cocinasunae. com). Subte B, Tronador/bus 21, 76, 87, 93, 127, 140. Open from 8pm Wed-Sat. Set menu AR$350. V

vegan, organic, gluten-free and raw food. Self-taught Argentinian chef, Maximo Cabrera, uses agroecological products and innovative methods to create delicious, filling and flavourful five-course menus that change monthly. Past dishes include a sweetcorn tostado topped with asparagus and caramelised fennel, a mushroom kebab with a mint, cucumber and cashew sauce and desserts such as a chocolate, marscapone and citric tiramisu. ! Location Chacarita (mobile 15 5661 8130/www.kenshococina. com). Subte B, Dorrego/bus 19, 39, 42, 71. Open from 9.30pm ThuSat. Set menu AR$400. V Ocho Once Argentinian chef Gonzalo Bazterrica juggled Michelin stars and molecular gastronomy before chucking it in for something more organic in the comfort of his own beautifully renovated home. His artfully presented five-course tasting menus give a French twist to South American classics: the sliver of raw fish in a passionfruit salsa is a nod to Peruvian ceviche, while the organic beef served with a cauliflower and caramelised onion purée in a port sauce doesn’t stray far from the pampas. Fruit-based desserts are waistline-friendly and the wine cellar is extensive. ! Location Palermo (mobile 15 3614 5719). Bus 39, 93, 108.

Open from 9pm Wed-Sat. Set menu AR$300 for three courses; AR$350 for five courses.

Paladar Husband and wife team, chef Pablo and sommelier Ivana, offer up to 16 guests an intimate dining experience in their Villa Crespo home. The five-course tasting menu changes every week and the selected winery every month. The focus is on combining fresh, local products with skilful cooking techniques. Although some of the most noted dishes are meat or fish based – breaded prawns with a coconut and coriander dressing for example – vegetarians, coeliacs and raw-foodists can also be catered for. ! Location Villa Crespo (mobile 15 5797 7267/www.paladarbuenos aires.com.ar). Subte B, Malabia/ bus 15, 55, 57. Open from 9pm Thu-Sat. Set menu AR$250-$400.

Treintasillas At Treintasillas in Colegiales, diners enjoy a five-course set menu that changes weekly, but is always based on the premise of using high-quality ingredients to produce delicious, memorable meals. Past delights have included a risotto with roasted prawns and cured ham, grilled ribeye steak with caramelised fennel and a chocolate and pistachio marquise. ! Location Colegiales (mobile 15 4492 7046/www.treintasillas.com).

Bus 39, 42, 63. Open from 8pm Thu-Sat. Set menu AR$330.

Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015/16 51

Restaurants

evening’s pleasure: cocktails, fine dining and good music. Ralph’s is the result, and it’s simply divine. Chef Hernán Taiana of Astrid y Gastón fame makes stunningly presented, exquisite food, the staff are attentive yet discreet and the interior is all plush furnishings and low lighting. From Wednesdays to Saturdays, a DJ mixes jazz as socialites pose on the patio. The menu changes with the equinox, but whatever the season, you won’t forget an evening at Ralph’s.

Gurruchaga 1830, y Costa Rica (4832 8940). Bus 15, 34, 36, 39, 55, 110, 111, 141. Open 8pm-3am Tue-Thu; 8pm-4am Fri, Sat. Main courses $$$$.

Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3. A !Tegui Although Tegui was ranked at number seven in Latin America’s 50 Best Restaurants (www.theworlds50best. com) in 2015, it remains discreet.

Tucked behind an eye-catching, deliberately graffitied wall and unassuming black door lies Argentina’s top-rated restaurant. Inside is a more sumptuous affair: a wine cellar spans the entire front wall, forming an impressive backdrop to the larger-thanlife ceiling. The open kitchen allows diners to peer in on the catering process, and the VIP room, which borders the kitchen, presents guests with an exclusive dining experience, compliments of head chef Germán Martitegui (who acts as a judge on the local version of MasterChef when not

in Tegui’s kitchen). A brief but exquisite menu changes weekly, utilising whatever techniques or ingredients have caught the chef’s fancy (the likes of sweetbreads, fresh gnocchi and ossobuco are certainly no strangers to the menu). In the evening, you can opt for the eight-course menu for AR$1200 (AR$1600 with the addition of wine pairings).

Costa Rica 5852, entre Ravignani y Carranza (4770 9500/www.tegui.com. ar). Bus 39, 57, 93, 108, 111, 168.

Open 8.30pm-12.30am Tue, Wed; 8.30pm-1am Thu-Sat. Main courses $$$$. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H3.

Uco Irish chef Ed Holloway brings an eclectic menu to the revamped restaurant at the Fierro Hotel (see p142). The best way to sample Uco’s fresh take on Argentinian cuisine is with the AR$550 tasting menu, but the attentive waiting staff will happily help you order à la carte if you’re not in the mood to splurge. Fish-lovers shouldn’t miss the trout smoked in Argentinian quebracho wood accompanied by a zingy fennel salad or the ceviche-style salmon carpaccio, while true carnivores will rejoice at the glazed ribeye steak or the 18-hour slow cooked shoulder of Patagonian lamb.

For dessert, the French-style apple tart is a must. Start the evening off early on the patio with two-for-one cocktails from 6pm to 8pm.

Soler 5862, entre Ravignani y Carranza (3220 6800/www.ucorestaurant.com).

La Fábrica de Taco (see p62)

52 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015/16

Subte D, Ministro Carranza/bus 12, 39, 57, 60. Open 8am-11pm Mon-Sun. Main courses $$$. Lunch AR$225.

Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H3.

BRAZILIAN

Boteco do Brasil So many Brazilian restaurants outside of Brazil get it wrong, either serving up triple-fried heart attacks on a plate or charging you the equivalent of an airfare to Rio for a caipirinha. Boteco do Brasil has avoided all those pitfalls, meaning it’s been the top-reigning Brazilian spot in Buenos Aires for years on end. Its good-value menu serves a stunning rendition of the Brazilian national dish, feijoada, and seafood-lovers will rejoice with the coconutty bobó de camarão and flaky empadinha de camarão, both made with quality prawns. Its success allowed Boteco to upgrade from a single-room restaurant to a larger, brighter space that’s packed every night. Along with colourful paintings and a beautiful terrace with cushy white benches, Boteco also has a bar that serves the best caipirinhas in town. Check the Facebook page for information and updates on the fun and funky live Brazilian music nights.

Honduras 5774, entre Bonpland y Carranza (3979 2970/www.botecodo brasil.com). Bus 39, 57, 93, 108, 111.

Open 11am-midnight Tue-Thu; noon-1am Fri, Sat; noon-midnight Sun. Main courses $. No credit cards.

Map H2. !A

BRITISH

Chipper For a country with 5000km of Atlantic coastline, fish is surprisingly overlooked on most Argentinian restaurant menus.

Little wonder then that Buenos Aires’s first traditional fish and chips eatery is netting a roaring trade. The owner may be Irish (there’s Guinness on the menu) and the chef Peruvian, but this is the real British deal: think flaky, deep-fried cod in a crispy batter served with thick-cut potato chips and a wedge of lemon. Add a choice of home-made dipping sauces – tartare, mushy peas, spicy curry or blue cheese – and you’ve got yourself a gourmet fishy feast.

Grilled salmon and salads are healthier options, while hearty pies, beefburgers and chicken nuggets ensure pescaphobes are catered for. The nautical-style interior is a feat in itself; it’s all blue-and-white decor and shimmery tropical fish. Takeaway and delivery are offered, but you’d be wise to eat in – and fast – if you go for the delectable deep-fried ice-cream.

Humboldt 1893, entre Costa Rica y El Salvador (4777 6760/www.chipper fishandchips.com). Bus 34, 39, 57, 93.

Open 12.30-4pm daily; 7.30pmmidnight Mon-Thu, Sun; 7.30pm-1am Fri, Sat. Main courses $$. Lunch AR$120-$130. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H2.

ECLECTIC

Azema Exotic Bistró Run by twinkly-eyed, amiable chef-owner Paul Jean Azema, this

Restaurants Gran Dabbang

restaurant is a word-of-mouth wonder.

Loosely themed on the cuisine of French and formerly French territories, which gives meaning to the ‘Exotic’ part of the restaurant’s name, the menu features dishes from the South Pacific, the Caribbean, various parts of Asia, and even Réunion, Azema’s native Indian Ocean island. The globe-trotting cuisine means you could see a Vietnamese pho and pâté de campagne on a baguette on the same menu, and fortunately at Azema you know they’ll both be cooked just right. You can pick up a copy of BA’s French newspaper, Le Trait d’Union, while you’re there.

Carranza 1875, entre Costa Rica y El Salvador (4774 4191). Bus 39, 57, 93, 111, 166. Open 8.30pm-midnight Mon-Sat. Main courses $$. No credit cards. Map H3.

Blanch Palermo dwellers ought to be thankful this Asian-inspired tapas spot has moved from Las Cañitas to their barrio.

Chef Diego ‘Tatu’ Rizzi cooks up a diverse menu of delicacies, like pork meatballs with a Thai peanut sauce, spicy potato-stuffed samosas and a tangy vegetable salad dotted with prawns. Climb upstairs to the

renovated terrace to enjoy some of Blanch’s refreshing jugs of aperitifs under the stars. Visit with a group (or a very large appetite) so you can order as many items as possible. And with bottles of quality wine available for market prices, why not order a few of those as well?

Carranza 2181, y Guatemala (4771 4440). Subte D, Ministro Carranza/bus 29, 39, 93, 111. Open 8.30pmmidnight Tue-Sat; 12.30-4pm Sat, Sun. Main courses $$. No credit cards.

Map H3. A Butchers It’s rare to get every element right on your first foray into food, but newly minted restaurateurs Max and Pablo have managed to do just that with their chic Palermo sandwich shop. The two act as chefs, sommeliers and waiters, but keep the service swift and friendly with a creative menu of sandwiches, salads and cheese plates. Sandwiches with crisps and coleslaw sound like the kind of dish you’d find at a school canteen, but these crisps are made in-house, the delicate red cabbage coleslaw is topped with black sesame seeds and sandwiches are filled with the likes of spiced lamb and feta

54 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015/16

cheese. Add to that a selection of boutique wines, and stark and stylish decor and Butchers is surely a winner.

Costa Rica 5863, y Ravignani (4775 1872). Bus 39, 57, 93, 95, 108, 111, 140, 151, 168. Open noon-3pm Tue-Fri; 8.30pm-midnight Wed-Sat. Main courses $$. No credit cards.

Map H3.

Comité The exposed brick ceiling and refurbished decor of this compact restaurant are more chic than rustic, while a tick-the-box tapas menu ticks all the boxes: Time Out loved the salmon tartare with dill mayo and white radish pickles. For mains, the halibut with endives and oyster mushrooms in a saffron broth was a favourite. Owner and chef Pablo Dellepiane’s stint in Catalonia’s Michelin starred restaurants shows in the creative menu, but it’s his passion for pastries that leaves the sweetest taste. The rich chocotortas and melt-in-the-mouth lemon pies are works of art. And the ice-cream of the day – it could be ginger, jasmine tea or wasabi – leaves a tasty impression too.

Gorriti 5900, y Ravignani (4774 1595). Bus 39, 57, 93, 108, 111, 140,

151, 168. Open 9am-midnight daily.

Main courses $$. Lunch AR$98-$148.

No credit cards. Map H2.

Gran Dabbang Chef Mariano Ramón and his wife Philippa Robson have created a gourmet oasis on a busy street just a few blocks away from the trendier parts of Palermo. With experience in the kitchens of Thailand, India and London, Ramón returned to his native Argentina to provide a mix of South-east Asian, Middle Eastern and Indian cooking never seen before in Buenos Aires.

While the menu changes frequently, the crunchy fried chard pakoras with sweet carrot chutney are a mainstay, as are the rich and flavoursome curries. The intimate setting lends itself well to a date or small group and the dishes are perfect for sharing.

Scalabrini Ortiz 1543, y Honduras (4832 1186). Bus 15, 36, 39, 55, 57, 110, 140. Open 8pm-midnight Mon-Sat. Main courses $. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3. ! V FRENCH

A Nos Amours This Parisian bistro – with its high windows, black-and-white

Restaurants Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015/16 55

Restaurants

EZEQUIEL POCCARD

photographs, vases filled with fresh flowers and French poetry books resting on each table – is a suitable spot to indulge in a romantic candlelit dinner. A large chalkboard announces the limited yet carefully chosen in-season menu, including favourites such as squash ragu, grilled octopus, risotto or fish of the day; the wine list is equally well curated, with bottles from various regions of Argentina, each hand-picked by the charismatic French owner. Tempting desserts like lemon tart make it almost obligatory to end the meal on a sweet note.

Gorriti 4488, y Aráoz (4897 2072).

Bus 39, 140, 151, 168. Open from 9pm Mon-Sat. Main courses $$.

Credit AmEx, V. Map G2.

La Paris Since its opening, La Paris has done much to popularise the local hippodrome. The attraction is a combination of a beautiful circular salon bathed in light, quintessential French deco, and Jean Paul Bondoux’s (of La Bourgogne fame) mixed menu of café classics and stylish dishes like salmon with Moroccan risotto and Patagonian lamb accompanied by chickpea Mousseline and vegetables.

Unfortunately, a rather out-of-date law prohibits the consumption of alcohol in the restaurant during race meetings.

Avenida del Libertador 4101, y Dorrego (4778 2880/www.palermo. com.ar). Bus 10, 34, 37, 57, 64, 130, 160, 166. Open 9.30am-1am Sun-Thu; 9.30am-3am Fri, Sat. Main courses $$$. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H4.

ITALIAN

Il Ballo del Mattone Wildly popular, family-owned Il Ballo del Mattone is just as well known for its pasta dishes as it is for its cool, arty decor. The speciality is fusilli scarparo, a deliciously simple parmesan, tomato, garlic and basil pasta. Expect chalkboard menus, kitsch art scattered about and helpful staff. The laid-back, quirky and fiercely hardworking owners deserve the success they have garnered – and they still find the time to host art exhibitions and film screenings. Check the Facebook page for the latest news and events.

Gorriti 5737, entre Carranza y Bonpland (4776 4247/www.ilballodel mattone.com). Bus 39, 108, 111. Open noon-4pm, 8pm-1am Mon-Sat. Main courses $$. Lunch AR$109 Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H3. !

Other location Gorriti 5950, Palermo (4776 8648).

Blanch (see p54)

56 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015/16

Cucina Paradiso The closest you’ll get to Italy without hopping on a plane, this cosy, part café, part restaurant has hungry punters queuing at the door. Inside, wooden tables are crammed together while shelves are stacked with top quality Italian produce ranging from celebrity chef and owner Donato de Santis’s brand of extra-virgin olive oil to bottles of imported grappa. Chefs cut fresh pasta at the counter, while food-lovers salivate over mozzarella, marinated olives and rosemary focaccia at the deli.

The clinking of wine glasses, the strains of ‘O Sole Mio’, the rich aroma of Illy coffee and animated discussions enjoyed over platefuls of authentic Italian pasta (try the gnocchi with pesto and mascarpone) will provide solace to any homesick Italian.

Arévalo 1538, y Cabrera (4770 9406/ www.dadonato.com). Bus 39, 151, 168.

Open 8am-midnight Mon-Sat. Main courses $$$. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H3.

Fornería Easily the best dining option on Plaza Armenia, this restaurant has carved out a niche for itself as a refuge from the busy fashionista thoroughfares.

With its elegant French-style bar, exposed brickwork and retro-chic simplicity, Fornería attracts the laptop-affixed workaholic by day and an unaffected Palermo crowd by night.

For something substantial, you can’t go wrong with a wood fired-oven pizza and eclectic salad. Although perhaps resist ordering the delicious sounding Beso Prohibido pizza (topped with plenty of cheese, garlic, olives and basil) if you’re on a date.

Malabia 1825, entre Nicaragua y Costa Rica (4831 5447/www.forneria.com.ar).

Bus 39, 55, 57, 111, 141, 151. Open 6pm-2am Mon; 8pm-2am Tue-Sun. Main courses $$. Lunch AR$120.

Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3.

Guido’s Bar This pea-sized trattoria is the kind of place one always looks for but rarely finds in Italy. With every inch of the letterbox-red walls plastered in movie poster kitsch, featuring real Italians (Mastroianni and Caruso) alongside honorary ones (Sammy Davis Jr), Guido’s is as much an evocation of an era as it is a culture – and in 2009 was the alleged meeting place of smitten South Carolina governor Mark Sanford and his local lover. There’s nothing sordid about owner Carlos’s passion for Italian food, though. The tasting menu is splendid: waiters force-feed you a parade of colourful appetisers followed by home-made pasta and dessert, until you say, ‘basta!’

República de la India 2843, entre Cabello y Gutiérrez (4802 2391).

Subte D, Plaza Italia/bus 29, 39, 152.

Open 7am-1am Mon-Fri. Tasting menus AR$400. No credit cards.

Map G4. !Guido Restaurant A narrow stairway leads up to this intimate space, a little piece of Italy on a quiet street, where red and white chequered tablecloths, mismatched wall art and Italian tunes help pull the scene together. Inviting you to ‘mangia sano, mangia italiano’, the menu’s great selection of pasta, creative sauces and pizzas ensures just that: good, healthy Italian dining. The menu’s star plates include the seafood platter for two and the agnolottis stuffed with braised lamb, truffle cream and porcini mushrooms. There’s also now a sushi bar for those who fancy Japanese-style fish. Those tired of malbec should try one of the artisanal beers available on

Restaurants Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015/16 57

Restaurants

tap for a welcome change. An excellent bar serving up classic cocktails, live music on Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays and a pleasant outside patio, make this the perfect spot to enjoy a warm evening.

Avenida Cerviño 3943, y República de la India (4802 1262/www.guido restaurant.com.ar). Bus 10, 93, 118, 161, 188. Open from 7pm Tue-Sun. Main courses $$. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G4. A Siamo nel Forno This place has superb service and airy, thin-crust pizza made to order – no mean feat in Buenos Aires, where pizza can often mean thick slabs of reheated, cheese-laden dough, slapped on a countertop. At this little Palermo restaurant, you’ll only find authentic Neapolitan-style pizza, meaning chewy crusts, fresh mozzarella and a drizzling of quality olive oil. A huge brick oven in the centre of the dining room gives diners a mouth-watering view of every pizza from its inception to the final product. Standouts include the Patate, a simple potato pizza, and the Spinaci, with three types of cheese and fresh spinach leaves. Siamo nel Forno’s specials change nightly, often with less conventional toppings like asparagus and octopus. There is a small, savvy wine list, and for dessert, be sure to save room for a wonderfully decadent Nutella-laden pizza.

Costa Rica 5886, entre Ravignani y Carranza (4775 0337). Bus 39, 57,

108, 111, 168. Open 8pm-midnight Tue-Sun. Main courses $$. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H3.

JAPANESE

Fukuro Noodle Bar Palermites are slurping up the home-made ramen at BA’s first ever noodle bar. Fukuro owners Vanessa and Matías Camozzi travelled extensively to noodle shops across Japan, the United States and South-east Asia to perfect their house recipe and introduce porteños to soul warming ramen noodle soup. The bright coloured space is decked out with a cool stencil graffiti motif designed by local street artist Cabaio. Hop onto a bar stool and choose from a reduced menu where everything is made from scratch: pork buns, gyoza, hand-pulled ramen noodles, 24-hour simmered broth, spicy dipping sauces and creative desserts like marshmallow cereal biscuits.

Costa Rica 5514, y Humboldt (3290 0912/www.fukuronoodlebar.com). Bus 34, 39, 57, 108, 111, 166. Open 8pm-midnight Tue-Thu; 8pm-1am Fri, Sat. Main courses $. No credit cards. Map H3.

Tenkuu Sushi This sushi spot in Palermo balances the subtle class of Japanese tradition with the culinary vitality of contemporary Peruvian fusion food.

The extensive menu includes mouth-watering sashimi and excellent

nigiri, as well as a range of Pacific flavours such as Thai chicken and superb Peruvian brochettes. Be sure to book in advance as the space is intimate to say the least, but those who do manage to secure a table will enjoy good service overlooked by Japanese paintings. Top it all off with some saké and you’ll see why Tenkuu is a solid spot for sushi.

Cabello 3370, y Paunero (4801 8042/ tenkuusushi.com.ar). Bus 57, 59, 60, 67, 92, 93, 95, 102. Open 8-11pm Mon-Sat. Main courses $$. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map F4.

MIDDLE EASTERN

Mishiguene Sophisticated but never stuffy, Mishiguene is most definitely not your grandmother’s Jewish cuisine. The menu takes its inspiration from classic Middle Eastern dishes, with an emphasis on Israeli and Jewish food, but is never afraid to innovate.

Appetisers include a stunning deconstructed babaghanoush, while the signature main course is a pastrón cooked for 36 hours. Stick around after your meal for a round of cocktails from the chic bar, or, for a really special evening, book a spot at the private chef’s table for a multi-course meal served straight from the kitchen to your table by the chefs.

Lafinur 3368, entre Seguí y Avenida del Libertador (3969 0764/www. mishiguene.com). Bus 10, 37, 57, 67, 102, 110, 128, 130, 160, 188. Open

7.30am-10.30am, noon-4pm, from 8pm Mon-Fri; 7.30am-4pm Sat, Sun; from 8pm Sat. Main courses $$$. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G5. A PERUVIAN

La Mar Cebichería Fans of the original Lima location waited for months for the new branch of this internationally-acclaimed Peruvian cevichería. The BA outpost is a feast for the senses – you can smell it from a block away, the outside bar and dining area’s tropical paradise vibe is sure to get you in the holiday mood, while inside you can watch the chefs at work in the open kitchen. And then there’s the food. Order anything on the menu – whether it’s freshly caught seafood cooked in a lemon, garlic and hot pepper sauce, spicy ceviche or an enormous fish to share – and your taste buds are sure to be delighted. Wash the food down with a silky smooth cocktail, then end on a light note with the queso helado – cinnamon ice-cream with coconut foam, flowers and mint.

Arévalo 2024, y Nicaragua (4776 5543/www.lamarcebicheria.com.ar).

Subte D, Ministro Carranza/bus 39, 57, 95, 111. Open 12.30-3.30pm, 8pm-midnight Tue-Sat; noon-5pm Sun. Main courses $$$. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H3. A M Bar Part art gallery, part sushi bar, part bistro, M Bar pleases everyone with a menu that is as diverse as it is EZEQUIEL POCCARD

Filo (see p28)

58 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015/16

Restaurants Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015/16 59

Restaurants

delicious. The M stands for mar (sea): much of the menu is pescatarian, with standout Peruvian dishes such as the tiradito limeño – tangy, limey sole strips with ají amarillo – and creative sushi, like the salmon nigiri with rocoto sauce, ginger and garlic. But fish-phobes need not despair, as there are pasta, burgers and steak on the menu too. Sit at the sushi bar or grab a table by the art-covered wall and dine under stylish hanging lamps to the sound of sizzles from the open kitchen.

El Salvador 5783, y Carranza (4778 9016/www.mbuenosaires.com.ar). Bus 39, 93, 108, 111. Open noon-3.30pm Mon-Fri; 8pm-midnight Mon-Sat. Main courses $$$$. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H3.

Olaya Olaya isn’t just another spot serving Peruvian-Japanese fusion food. Instead, executive chef José Castro Mendivil, also responsible for Osaka (see p40) and Sipan (see below), pays tribute to over 500 years of Peruvian food culture and immigration, combining its culinary legacies with world cuisines: Japanese, Chinese, Indonesian, French and Italian. The extravagant space features a massive mural by famous Argentinian artist Milo Lockett, pisco bottles on display and a whole fish on ice next to the open kitchen. Portions are hefty, as are the prices, making it a draw for trendy Palermo big spenders who want to enter a world of elaborate and sophisticated Peruvian flavours.

Humboldt 1550, entre Gorriti y Cabrera (4843 1751). Bus 39, 93, 108, 111. Open 8pm-midnight Mon-Wed; 8pm-1am Thu-Sat; Main courses $$$$. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H2.

Páru Who knew sliced fish could taste so good with parmesan cheese? Peru-born chef Jann Van Oordt, co-creator of Osaka (see p40), has gone it alone here to produce a successful joint which, after a dream run in upscale Palermo Hollywood, relocated to the even more upscale, uber-exclusive Racket Club tucked away in the Palermo woods.

Park yourself on the terrace and expect temptation to strike under each heading on the menu – and on the excellent pisco-dominated drinks list.

Racket Club, Valentín Alsina 1450 (4778 3307/www.paru.com.ar). Bus 15, 29, 42, 55, 59, 60, 64, 118, 130.

Open from 8pm Mon-Sat. Main courses $$$. Credit AmEx, MC, V.

Comité (see p54)

60 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015/16

Sipan Located in the trendy Palermitano hotel (see p144), Sipan, with its funky decor, open kitchen, impeccable service (not a given in Argentina) and stellar pisco bar is a winner on the Peruvian cuisine circuit. Bow down before the Señor de los Milagros cocktail, a uniquely Peruvian mix of pisco, purple corn and lime, before getting started on an array of ceviche and sashimi. Time Out’s favourites include the octopus in black olive cream and the tiracuyá – a creative take on the traditional tiradito, with fresh pink salmon, miel de maracuyá (passionfruit honey) and

POLISH

Krakow Polish comfort food finds a home in Argentina in the form of Krakow, hidden away in the lovely Polish community centre. Here you’ll see Argentinians of Polish descent enjoying the country’s classics, such as potato-filled pierogies, cabbage stuffed with beef and veggies, and hearty portions of meat and potatoes. The dining area boasts a beautiful indoor patio that you’d never know was hidden away among Palermo Soho’s bars and clubs. Those with gluten allergies would be wise to take note of this quiet little spot: Krakow’s very extensive menu includes many gluten-free options.

Jorge Luis Borges 2076, y Soler (4775 3950/www.krakow-resto.com.ar). Bus 15, 36, 39, 55, 57. Open from 8pm Tue-Sat. Main courses $$. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3.

SCANDINAVIAN

Olsen Olsen has been going strong for ten years; it was one of the first chic haunts to come to Palermo Hollywood, a barrio that is now swimming with similar places. Nonetheless, Olsen’s uber-stylish, minimalist design, (think hanging copper lamps and an ivy-covered patio lounge) manages to remain a highlight in the neighbourhood. The Scandinavian cuisine matches the stylish interior, with the smørrebrød (comprising smoked salmon, pastrami, smoked cheese, langoustine and more) being a favourite. No trip to Scandinavia would be complete without a bit of vodka; Olsen’s 60-plus vodka shots are the house speciality, but the liquor is put to particularly good use in the house cocktail Mint – Absolut vodka, passionfruit and…you guessed it, mint.

On a weekend afternoon, spend a few hours nursing a bloody mary while lounging in the patio, and you’ll understand why Olsen is here to stay.

Gorriti 5870, entre Carranza y Ravignani (4776 7677). Bus 39, 57, 93, 108, 111, 168. Open 12.30pmmidnight Tue-Sat; 10am-midnight Sun. Main courses $$. Lunch AR$120.

Credit V. Map H2. AV SOUTH-EAST ASIAN

Green Bamboo The popular Vietnamese restaurant Green Bamboo balances the five essential elements of sweet, salty, bitter, spicy and sour tastes in a way that’s likely to keep even the most sophisticated palate interested. You can build your own plate with your choice of noodles, rice and meat, or order from an array of perfectly balanced dishes

that includes the likes of fried wontons filled with steamed tofu and aubergine, ginger and sweet chilli squid, decadent short ribs and fish of the day marinated with tamarind, basil and shallots, wrapped up in a bamboo leaf and barbecued. One of the exotic fruit-inspired cocktails, like the delicate litchi martini or a grapefruit-laced Hemingway daiquiri, is an absolute must to round out a meal. With your stomach thrilled by the spicy delights, the bar area will keep your eyes amused with what some might describe as kitsch tat, all under the watchful gaze of Ho Chi Minh.

Costa Rica 5802, y Carranza (4775 7050/www.green-bamboo.com.ar). Bus 39, 57, 93, 95, 108, 168. Open from 8.30pm daily. Main courses $$$.

Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H3. AV

Restaurants

crispy filo pastry.

Uriarte 1648, entre Honduras y El Salvador (4833 9383/www.sipan restaurants.com). Bus 34, 39, 55, 108, 140, 151, 166, 168. Open noon-4pm daily; 8pm-midnight Tue, Wed, Sun; 8pm-1am Thu-Sat. Main courses $$$$. Lunch AR$180. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2. A Other location Paraguay 624, Microcentro (4315 0763).

!Sudestada Minimalist and sophisticated, yet artfully unpretentious, Sudestada has spent over a decade at the forefront of the local gastronomic scene – a tough job in this country. Main courses include Thai noodle dishes, a rotating selection of curries, grilled Asian beef, stir-fried chicken with cashew nuts and tonsil-tingling Indonesia-style stir-fried egg noodles. The lunch special, available on weekdays, remains good value. You’ll be hard pressed to find starter, main and wine for AR$120 anywhere else in the neighbourhood.

Guatemala 5602, y Fitz Roy (4776 3777). Subte D, Palermo/bus 15, 93, 108, 111, 152, 194. Open noon3.30pm, 8pm-midnight Mon-Sat. Main courses $$$. Lunch AR$115. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H3.

VEGETARIAN

Arevalito With mismatched tables and chairs, paper lamps and handwritten menus, this vegetarian joint is hippy-chic to the core, but charming decor aside, it’s the home-made food that plays the starring role. Each day sees a new menu that changes between lunch and dinner, typically featuring a vegetable tart, a salad of the day and numerous desserts. The pastry on the leek and potato tart Time Out had was close to perfect: crumbly, thick and tasty.

Expect to see unique creations as well, like a vegetable-stuffed chapatti topped with a poached egg, accompanied by a huge, fresh green salad. Just as spectacular and delicious is the refreshing grapefruit pomelade.

Arévalo 1478, y Cabrera (4776 4252).

Bus 39, 93, 108. Open 9am-midnight Mon-Sat; 12.30-5.30pm, 8.30-11pm Sun. Main courses $. Lunch AR$60-$90.

No credit cards. Map H2. !V Bio Bio was the first organic restaurant in Buenos Aires, and has been serving vegetarian, vegan and raw food dishes to a loyal clientele for over a decade.

And while raw or vegan options might sound cold and clinical to some, Bio infuses plenty of warmth and spices into its plates, with creative combos like curried rice and almond soup and classics with a twist, like quinoa risotto Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015/16 61

Restaurants

and cashew nut cheese pizza. In order to spread the organic love, Bio also offers cooking classes and sells organic goodies like fig coffee and wine in-store. Plenty more eateries have jumped on the organic food trend in the past ten years, but Bio is the real deal.

Humboldt 2192, y Guatemala (4774 3880/www.biorestaurant.com). Bus 12, 15, 29. Open 10am-midnight daily.

Main courses $$. Lunch AR$110.

Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H3. V

Las Cañitas AMERICAN

Kansas Basking in the presence of the nearby, splendid Hipódromo de Palermo racetrack, Kansas has its own grand entrance and glamorous appeal. The queue can easily top an hour any day of the week, and the bar is often so packed there may not even be a place to enjoy a caipikiwi while you wait for your table. Once seated however, summon your appetite, roll up your sleeves and get ready to dig in to a hearty American meal with all the trimmings. The classic cheeseburger is perfection and the Houston barbecue ribs are finger-lickin’ good, and a massive and messy affair just the way they should be. If there’s still room, try the chocolate fudge brownie; and if there isn’t, wriggle that top button loose and order that dessert anyway.

Avenida del Libertador 4625, entre

Benjamín Matienzo y Jorge Newbery (4776 4100/www.kansasgrillandbar. com.ar). Bus 64. Open 11.45ammidnight Sun-Thu; 11.45am-1.30am Fri; 11.45am-2am Sat. Main courses $$$.

Credit AmEx, MC, V. A ARGENTINIAN – TRADITIONAL

Parrilla el Primo Locals flock to this prime Las Cañitas spot for its fantastic location, high quality meat and friendly and efficient staff. Come for a long lazy lunch in the sunshine, and watch the world go by as you stuff yourself silly on hunks of meat served on a sizzling tabletop grill.

Delicious sauces like chimichurri and salsa criolla will get your tonsils tingling, and are ideal slathered on top of a succulent steak or a juicy sausage.

In the evening, make a reservation to avoid waiting for a table as this joint fills up quickly.

Báez 302, y Arévalo (4772 8441/www. parrillaelprimo.com.ar). Bus 10, 15, 29, 39, 41, 55. Open from 7pm Mon-Thu; from noon Fri-Sun. Main courses $$.

Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H4.

MEXICAN

La Fábrica del taco Adding some spice to this alreadybustling neighbourhood, this branch of La Fábrica del Taco is slightly more upscale than the original Palermo joint.

Like the original, it is decked out in fun Mexican decor – talaveras and candles mixed with colourful homages to lucha libre – which makes for a festive

62 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015/16

Once KOREAN

Bi Won Unimposing to the point of being invisible, this Korean restaurant is set in a neighbourhood better known for its fabric wholesalers than for fabulous dining experiences. Don’t be put off by the ice-cream freezers that greet you as you enter, or the chintzy wallpaper: the place might have had a style bypass, but a glance at the customers should reassure you that the food here is authentic. The mandu guk is a huge bowl of broth with meat and vegetable-filled dumplings, while the sengson chigue is a spicy seafood stew made to share. If you

like your eating experiences interactive, go for the bul gogui, sweet-tasting macerated meat with a tabletop grill for DIY cooking, plus a host of side dishes including pickled vegetables and succulent anchovies.

Junín 548, y Lavalle (4372 1146).

Subte B, Pasteur/bus 50, 60. Open noon-3pm, 7.30pm-midnight Mon-Fri; 7.30-11.30pm Sat. Main courses $$$.

No credit cards. Map D4.

Villa Crespo and Almagro ITALIAN

Salgado Alimentos ‘Panza llena, corazón contento’ (full belly, happy heart) is the slogan of this Italian neighbourhood gem, and night after night satisfied customers roll out of here with a pasta-sauce smile. With its fluorescent lighting, diner-style decor and fresh pasta counter, this restaurant is definitely substance over style – but oh, what substance! The chicken cannelloni in a creamy mustard sauce and raviolis de jamón crudo are divine. Reasonable prices mean there’s room in the budget for dessert; go for panza-padding portions of cheesecake, chocotorta and tiramisu.

Juan Ramírez de Velazco 401, y Aráoz, Villa Crespo (4854 1336/www. salgadoalimentos.com.ar). Subte B, Malabia/bus 24, 110. Open noon-4pm

FOTO RUTA

Janio (see p49)

experience that is as enjoyable for the playful ambience as it is for the fantastic food. Spicy tomato salsas of various heat levels add real flavour to the fresh tacos. For those with a more sensitive tongue, the house speciality taco al pastor – strips of marinated pork with a tasty home-made sauce – is a firm favourite and best washed down with a wonderfully spicy michelada or tequila-based cocktail.

Báez 246, entre Arévalo y Andrés Arguibel (4832 0815/www.lafabrica deltaco.com). Bus 10, 12, 15. Open from 1pm Tue-Sun. Main courses $.

No credit cards. Map H4. !

Other location, Gorriti 5062, Palermo (4832 0815).

Restaurants Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015/16 63

Restaurants Buenos Aires Verde (see p68)

Mon; noon-midnight Tue-Sat. Main courses $. Lunch AR$110. No credit cards. Map G1. !H MIDDLE EASTERN

Sarkis Good things come to those who wait, and you’re guaranteed both good things – and a wait – at perennially popular Sarkis, repeatedly cited as one of Buenos Aires’s best spots for Middle Eastern cuisine. Despite the barely translated menu, Sarkis has drummed up such a following that waits can easily top an hour (fortunately, there are plenty of Villa Crespo and Palermo bars nearby to duck into for a drink while your table opens up). Don’t be afraid to ask the staff for recommendations if you’re not familiar with the names of the Middle Eastern plates – with food this good, you’re unlikely to get a dud. The decor leaves much to be desired, but something keeps pulling the punters back; Time Out’s putting its cash on the food and the value. Arab-style empanadas, houmous, shish kebab, falafel, kofta, tasty salads and excellent desserts arrive in generous portions; and while years of inflation mean the prices might no longer be as rock bottom as they once were, Sarkis definitely still represents good value for money.

Thames 1101, y Jufré, Villa Crespo (4772 4911). Bus 19, 34, 39, 55, 90, 108, 151, 166, 168. Open noon3pm, 8pm-1am daily. Main courses $. No credit cards. Map G2. !V

SPANISH

VENEZUELAN

!La Esperanza de los Ascurra Arepera This Spanish-style tapas bar is as The clue’s in the name, kids. Arepera poetic as it sounds. Paintings (some is your cheap and cheerful one-stop by co-owner Martín Beraldi) hang on shop for tasty Venezuelan arepas. a washing line and are for sale; while Think of the arepa as Latin recycled tables and colourful chairs, America’s answer to the hamburger: each decorated by a different artist, a round, cornmeal-based patty give the place a bohemian vibe. After stuffed to the crusts with all manner a shopping stint at the nearby Villa of fabulous fillings. Anything with Crespo outlets, duck in for a miniature avocado, marinated chicken, cañita (draught beer) and tapas at the caramelised onion and plantain hits long bar, or make a meal of it with the spot and is best washed down Cinzano-based cocktails and raciones. with one of the pitchers of fresh Time Out loves the gambas al ajillo juices, like bittersweet lemon and (garlic prawns), boquerones sugar cane. (anchovies) and jamón crudo serrano Estado de Israel 4316, y Pringles, (the real deal, imported from Spain).

Almagro (mobile 15 6463 1229). Bus An Illy coffee and flan make for the 19, 36, 90, 92, 99. Open perfect end to any meal, large or 7pm-midnight Tue-Thu, Sun; small. The newest Recoleta 8pm-1am Fri, Sat. Main branch gives plenty of courses $. No credit esperanza (hope) that cards. Map F2. tapas are here to stay in Dine al fresco Other location Buenos Aires.

Make the most of the Aguirre 526, entre summer with an outdoor Esmeralda 612, Malabia y Scalabrini Microcentro (5237 2913). table at Ralph’s (see Ortiz, Villa Crespo p49), Blanch (see p54) (2058 8313/www. or Comité (see esperanzaascurra.com.ar). p54).

Subte B, Malabia/bus 15, 24, ARGENTINIAN – MODERN 55, 106. Open 6.30pm-midnight Pura Tierra Tue-Sat; 12.30-4.30pm Sat. Main As its name – ‘pure earth’ – suggests, courses $$. Lunch AR$88. Credit the focus here is on fresh produce AmEx, V. Map G1. ! and clever use of the restaurant’s Other locations Fitz Roy 1818, adobe-mud oven to create the perfect Palermo (3533 7122); Unit 15, Vicente López 1661, Recoleta (3533 balance of colour, taste and texture.

7122).

The menu dares to mix sweet and

64 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015/16

TOP TIP!

Belgrano

savoury in unusual combinations, for example the mollejas (sweetbreads) are drizzled with molasses and fennel seeds, and for dessert there’s candied squash with turmeric cream, white chocolate, vanilla ice-cream and arrope (Spanish grape syrup).

Indecisive diners can opt for a nine-course tasting menu to sample a bit of everything – and every animal, with rabbit, lamb and pork all on the roster. The sweet-toothed will do well to remember that this doubles as one of the city’s finest pastelerías: Kao. 3 de Febrero 1167, entre Avenida Federico Lacroze y Teodoro García (4899 2007/www.puratierra.com.ar).

Subte D, Olleros/bus 15, 29, 41, 42, 55.

Open 8pm-12.30am Mon-Sat. Main courses $$$$. Tasting menus AR$550-$720. Credit AmEx, MC, V. !Sucre If you can swing a ringside seat at Fernando Trocca’s dramatic, high-ceilinged Sucre, preferably at a high table beside the wide open kitchen, then do. The cuisine is international – Italian, Japanese and Peruvian, among others – meaning there are no limits to what the chefs can produce. The exemplary staff are only too happy to talk you through the menu and select a bottle of wine from one of the 350 options, or help you decide on a cocktail from the list of innovative and delicious concoctions.

The wonderful parrilla meats are cooked with local firewood, giving

Restaurants Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015/16 65

Restaurants

Recommended Delicias de Alicia

Sitting around the communal table of Delicias de Alicia, you’d be forgiven for thinking this was just another puerta cerrada, albeit an excellent one.

Guests are welcomed with a cocktail and crostinis, and then served three delightful courses full of vegetarian goodness – think pumpkin cakes with ginger and lime, mushroom lasagne with feta, broccoli and roasted tomatoes, and chocolate and beetroot cake – and the setting is a beautiful San Telmo home. But the restaurant’s owner and chef, British expat Alicia Amende, has a not-so-hidden agenda. Amende works with charity Etf to run cooking workshops for local kids from a small, marginalised community in La Matanza, teaching them about alternatives to their usual diet of maté, bread and fizzy drinks. She also runs a subsidised shop, selling nutritious food to community members. As 100 percent of Delicias de Alicia’s profits goes to Etf, not only will you leave with a full belly and some new friends, but also a handmade thank you note from the kids Amende works with.

Charity has never felt so good. Address provided at time of booking, San Telmo (mobile 15 3831 3286/www.deliciasdealicia.org). Bus 10, 24, 29, 60, 151, 168. Open Enquire about reservations. Set menu AR$250. No credit cards. Map A3.

them a special, smoky taste. There’s also a fine fish selection, and an extensive tapas and dessert menu to start and finish a meal.

Sucre 676, entre Avenida Figueroa Alcorta y Castañeda (4782 9082/www. sucrerestaurant.com.ar). Bus 28, 34, 37, 42. Open 11.30am-4pm, 8pmmidnight Sun-Wed; 11.30am-4pm, 8pm-1am Thu-Sat. Main courses $$$$. Credit AmEx, MC, V. A CHINESE

Hong Kong Style Arguably the best place for Chinese food in Barrio Chino, if not all of Buenos Aires, this Chinatown hotspot serving dim sum and Cantonese favourites is presided over by chef Lui Cheuk Hung and his wife Lily. Service may be slow, but all the food is ultra fresh and made to order, ensuring customers leave extra happy and extra full. Go with a large group so you can try a bit of everything: dumplings, sweet and sour soup, whole

fish in oyster sauce and salt and pepper prawns are all must orders.

Montañeses 2149, entre Mendoza y Juramento (4786 3456). Bus 15, 29, 42, 44, 55, 60. Open from 8pm Mon, Tue, Thu; noon-4pm, from 8pm Fri-Sun. Main courses $$. No credit cards.

FRENCH

Pipí Cucú Fresh flower petals strewn across crisp white linen tablecloths, oversized vintage artwork and intimate corner tables make this French-style restaurant a romantic spot for couples on date night. Delicate starters include warm, gooey Camembert or tender sweetbreads with tomato confit and rocket, but for a heartier meal, go for the delicious pork bondiola with honey cane and cinnamon. Rather skip dinner and just do drinks and dessert? Indulge in the delicious pistachio crème brûlée.

Then prop up the bar and make friends with the charming bartender, who will

66 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015/16

happily craft you a cocktail not found on the menu.

Ciudad de la Paz 557, entre Olleros y Maure (4551 9314). Subte D, Olleros/ bus 68, 152, 160, 161, 168, 194. Open 12.30pm-1am Mon-Sat. Main courses $$. No credit cards.

PERUVIAN

Contigo Perú Had enough steak already? Then let the technicolour-waistcoated waiters at this cool cantina bring you a short, sharp citric shock in the shape of a plate of ceviche and a brace of pisco sours. The extensive menu has every variety of ceviche, along with a range of seafood mains – including various creations with pulpo (octopus). Traditional Peruvian desserts include suspiro limeño and passionfruit mousse.

Crowded with diners looking to transport themselves to Cuzco, Contigo Perú represents global cuisine at its most splendidly parochial. This spot is

great fun – and cheap to boot.

Echeverría 1627, y Montañeses (4780 3960/www.contigo-peru.com.ar). Bus 15, 29, 42, 44, 55, 60, 63, 64, 65.

Open noon-4pm, 8pm-midnight Mon-Sat. Main courses $. Lunch AR$80. No credit cards.

SOUTH-EAST ASIAN

Lotus Neo Thai Fans of Thai cuisine will find all their favourite dishes here, but with the added bonus of slurping the tom kha soup under the visage of psychedelic painted flowers climbing the walls. Or opt for a table on the candlelit terrace to eat amid real plants, flowers and bamboo. Consider the elegant Lotus cocktail as a starting point – a mix of vodka and passionfruit, sugar and ice; then go for the delightful kaeng pehd ped yang – roasted duck and pineapple in a red curry sauce – or the mango

Restaurants Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015/16 67

Restaurants Alo’s

salad if you want something lighter. Most dishes can be prepared gluten-free on request, and fans of Thai cuisine will really rejoice when they find out that Lotus Neo Thai also offers delivery and the occasional cooking class.

Arribeños 2265, entre Olazábal y Mendoza (4783 7993/www. restaurantelotus.com.ar). Bus 15, 29, 42, 44, 60, 63, 64. Open from 8.30pm Mon; 12.30-3.30pm, from 8.30pm Tue-Sun. Main courses $$.

Lunch AR$140. Credit AmEx, V. V VEGETARIAN

NEW Buenos Aires Verde Vegetarian cuisine goes sophisticated at Buenos Aires Verde’s new Belgrano restaurant.

Like at the original Palermo outpost, vegan, vegetarian and raw dishes are abundant and colourful, only here with a more elegant setting and presentation. Asian-inspired dishes like mushroom-stuffed Chinese buns and sushi made with yamani rice are among the standouts of the extensive menu, and though local palates are often sceptical of anything without meat, veggie takes on traditional dishes like locro and

choripán prove Argentinian cuisine filled triangolini) to the scrumptious and vegans can get along just fine. ice-cream. Sit at the bar so that you Time Out highly recommends can order the tasting menu and stopping at the almacén to pick up a watch the chefs work their magic in bottle of organic wine and Buenos the open kitchen.

Aires Verde’s delectable home-made Blanco Encalada 2120, y Julián salad dressing.

Navarro, San Isidro (4737 0248/ Vidal 2226, y Mendoza (4787 www.alo-s.com.ar). Bus 168.

1375/www.bsasverde.com).

Open 9am-11.30pm Subte D, Juramento/bus Tue-Sat. Main courses 29, 60, 68, 80, 107, $$. Lunch AR$170.

113, 133, 151. Open Escape the city Credit AmEx, MC, V. 9am-12.30am Mon-Sat. For more great dining Main courses $$. No options outside of Oporto Almacén Argentina’s capital, credit cards.

A beautiful corner spot see our Getting Away Other location Gorriti with cutting-edge section on page 5657, Palermo (4775 interior design and 150.

9594). over 500 wines at store prices make Oporto Almacén a lovely spot for a lazy afternoon lunch, far away from bustling downtown BA. Prices are sufficiently ARGENTINIAN – MODERN affordable to tempt customers to pick Alo’s generously from the menu, which The only downside to this bistro is changes every four months. Time Out shared a chicken salad with that it’s not in BA proper – aside poached egg on a bed of watercress from that, Alo’s is a gourmet’s and a selection of tapas, all washed paradise. Chef Alejandro Féraud down with several glasses of local and his team make just about sauvignon blanc. Add to that crisp everything in-house, from the fresh and polite service and this spot is breads and pastas (try the meat-

TOP TIP!

Further afield

68 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015/16

well worth the journey from the city centre.

11 de Septiembre 4152, e Irlanda, Núñez (4703 5568/www.oporto almacen.com.ar). Bus 28, 29, 117.

Open noon-midnight Tue-Sun. Main courses $$. Lunch $270. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Urondo Bar Named after Francisco ‘Paco’ Urondo, a radical poet who became one of Argentina’s ‘disappeared’ during the military dictatorship, this off-thebeaten-track spot is run by his grandson Javier and nephew Sebastián. The former mans the kitchen, turning out dishes that fuse Argentinian and intense South-east Asian influences. Start with the copetín, a mixed platter of cheeses, meat and vegetables. Mains include dishes like ossobuco or grilled lamb served with lentils, fennel and mint.

Sebastián handles the front of house and manages the impeccable wine list.

Beauchef 1204, y Estrada, Parque Chacabuco (4922 9671). Subte E, Moreno/bus 4, 7, 134. Open from 8.30pm Tue-Sat. Main courses $$. No credit cards.

Restaurants Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015/16 69

Food and Drink index Eclectic

Restaurants

Azema Exotic Bistró Blanch Brandon Butchers Comité Del Toro Gran Dabbang

French

A Nos Amours Brasserie Petanque La Paris Pipí Cucú

Indian

Tandoor

Italian

Il Ballo del Mattone Chiuso El Cuartito Cucina Paradiso Filo Fornería Guido’s Bar Guido Restaurant La Locanda María Fedele Il Matterello Piola Salgado Alimentos Siamo nel Forno

Japanese

Fukuro Noodle Bar Osaka Tenkuu Sushi Wasabi’s

Osaka (see p40)

Korean

Cafés La Alacena Bar Británico Bar Plaza Dorrego Bartola Be Juice La Biela Birkin Coffee Bar Café Crespín Café Tortoni La Crespo Los Dos Chinos The Factory El Federal Felix Felicis & Co Full City Coffee House Grand Café In Bocca al Luppo LAB Tostadores de Café Lattente Malvón Mark’s Deli & Coffee House Meme Mercadito Latino Ninina Bakery Nolita Oui Oui Pain et Vin Le Pain Quotidien Pani Il Posto Mercato Tea Connection Las Violetas Voltaire Yeite

Argentinian – traditional 22 21 22 22 22 22 23 24 21 24 21 22 22 22 23 21 23 23 23 24 23 23 22 23 24 23 23 24 21 24 22 24 24 24

Restaurants American

Burger Joint Dean & Dennys Kansas Muu Lechería

44 40 62 44

La Brigada Brasero Atlántico Las Cabras La Cabrera Club del Progreso Cumaná El Desnivel Don Julio La Dorita Gran Parrilla del Plata Las Horas Lo de Jesús Manolo Minga Miramar Miranda El Obrero Pan y Arte Parrilla el Primo Perón Perón El Preferido de Palermo

Argentinian – modern

Aldo’s Vinoteca y Restorán Alo’s Aramburu Aramburu Bis Astor - Manduque Porteno El Baqueano Café Rivas La Carnicería Casa Cavia Casa Cruz Caseros Chochán Club Social Crizia Dadá Elena Gran Bar Danzón Le Grill Harturo i Central Market

70 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015/16

30 32 44 44 26 40 30 46 46 30 46 46 30 46 36 46 34 38 62 48 48

31 68 38 38 31 31 31 48 48 48 32 32 32 48 26 40 42 38 42 38

Janio El Mercado Museo Evita Restaurante NC Freud & Fahler Oporto Almacén La Panadería de Pablo Paraje Arévalo Las Pizarras La Popular Pura Tierra Ralph’s El Refuerzo Roux Sucre Tarquino Tegui Tomo I Uco Urondo Bar

Brazilian

Boteco do Brasil

British Chipper

Chinese

Hong Kong Style

Closed-door restaurants Barraco Casa Coupage Casa Felix Casa Saltshaker La Cocina Discreta Cocina Sunae Delicias de Alicia i Latina Jueves a la Mesa Kensho Ocho Once Paladar Treintasillas

49 40 49 49 68 32 49 49 32 64 49 34 42 64 42 52 26 52 68

52

Bi Won

Mexican

La Fábrica del Taco

Middle Eastern

Mishiguene Sarkis

Peruvian

Chan Chan La Causa Nikkei Contigo Perú Coya La Mar Cebichería M Bar Olaya Páru Rawa Sipan

Polish Krakow

Scandinavian 52

Olsen

South-east Asian 66

50 50 50 50 50 51 66 51 51 51 51 51

51

Green Bamboo Lotus Neo Thai Sudestada

Spanish

Café San Juan Casa Borja La Esperanza de los Ascurra Oviedo

Vegetarian

Arevalito Bio Buenos Aires Verde Hierbabuena

Venezuelan Arepera

52 54 42 54 54 28 54 54 34 56 66 42 56 26 28 56 28 56 56 56 42 28 34 42 62 58 58 40 58 28 62 62 58 64 28 44 66 30 58 58 60 60 30 60 61 61 61 66 61 34 34 64 44 61 61 68 34 64

Nightlife

Photograph: Gran Bar Danz贸n by Diego Quiroga

Bars

72

Clubs

86

Nightlife index

91

Bars

72 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015/16

Bars

The basics

The battle between beer, wine and fernet for dominance over the local drinking scene rages on. Wine bars have every block of Palermo covered, but beer is making its strongest showing ever, with a slew of craft beer bars arriving just in time for summer (see p84). If you’re determined not to give up your vino even in the summer heat, check out our picks for the best rosés (see p107). And while it’s far from trendy, the beloved combo of fernet and Coke still makes an appearance at every social gathering, bar and even street corner.

There’s also a new liquor in town shaking things up: saké. The Japanese liquor, until now practically unheard of in BA, is the starring player at new bar Kiboo (see p76). Kiboo also joins the ranks of many cocktail bars with discreet or ‘secret’ entrances. Keep your eyes peeled for punters entering Frank’s (see p78), Victoria Brown (see p82), Ferona Club Social (see p78) and others.

BASA Bar Created by the discerning owners of Gran Bar Danzón (see p42), this basement resto-bar is all about moody lighting, comfy sofas and damn fine cocktails. The diverse 25-strong cocktail list, compiled by head barman Ludovico De Biaggi, is guaranteed to hold your attention for the night. Don’t miss the Moscow Mule – a classic cocktail rarely seen on BA menus – mixed with house-made ginger beer. In addition to all the classics there are quirky drinks like the Penicillin, designed to be drunk straight from the bottle wrapped in a paper bag, and above average bar food.

Basavilbaso 1328, entre Avenida del Libertador y Juncal (4893 9444/www. basabar.com.ar). Bus 101, 108, 152, 195. Open noon-3.30pm, from 7pm Mon-Fri; from 8pm Sat. Credit MC, V. Map D6. D

!Florería Atlántico And the award for BA’s most original resto-bar goes to… Florería Atlántico, a florist, wine shop and speakeasy rolled into one. Walk in and smell the

The Centre Bar Calixto Just a few metres from Avenida 9 de Julio, in the terrain of polluting buses and incessant noise, lies a little door leading down to an establishment called Bar Calixto. A complete rarity in Buenos Aires, this subterranean bar is small, narrow, and invitingly cosy.

Unlike certain other drinking destinations, there’s none of the secretive speakeasy hassle; Bar Calixo is just a bar with simple decor, extremely well-made and original cocktails, friendly staff and smooth jazz sounds. Happy hour is from 7pm to 9pm daily.

Marcelo T de Alvear 965 y Carlos Pellegrini, Retiro (5217 9871). Subte C, San Martín/bus 10, 17, 23, 129, 150.

Open from 7pm Wed-Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D5. D Bárbaro Bar In 1969, a group of local bohemian artists founded BA’s first pub and covered its walls, windows and ceiling with their artwork. Today, the original artwork remains and this classic bar has stood the test of time by firmly resisting change. Have an aperitif or an artisanal beer on the quiet cobbled street, or head inside to spot hidden design details and listen to live music in the basement. Bárbaro is also a great place for anyone whose stomach can’t adjust to the local timetable; its kitchen is open all day and all night. Round up a group of friends to try all 12 of the tapas or the enormous picada Bárbaro, and settle in for a night of fun.

roses, then head downstairs to the narrow, romantically lit space. Inspired

by Buenos Aires’s rustic port bars of the 1900s and their immigrant clientele, the drinks menu, devised by co-owner Tato Giovannoni, is divided into countries. Under ‘Poland’ is the signature cocktail Bocharov: Belvedere vodka, rosehip, orange juice and tabasco. Giovannoni’s beautiful wall sketches of mythical sea monsters contrast with sleek, minimalist furniture, making this one of Time Out’s top spots. While you’re in the neighbourhood be sure to check out Florería’s new sister restaurant, Brasero Atlántico (see p32).

Arroyo 872, y Suipacha, Retiro (4313 6093). Bus 6, 39, 93, 129, 130, 152.

Open 7pm-2am Mon-Wed; 7pm2.30am Thu; 7pm-4am Fri; 8pm-2.30am Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D6.

Shout Brasas & Drinks Don’t be put off by the slightly seedy surrounding streets – Shout Brasas & Drinks is an elegant French-style mansion with quality cocktails and cuisine. Small plates like patacones (twice-fried plantains), pork croquets and sweetbreads are all perfectly executed in the open kitchen, as are the delicious mains. As for the drinks, you might have trouble deciding what to DIEGO QUIROGA

HOW TO USE THE LISTINGS This section presents our selection of the city’s best bars. ! denotes a place we particularly recommend.

NEW means the bar has opened in the last six months or so.

D signals free Wi-Fi for customers.

Tres Sargentos 415, y Reconquista, Retiro (4311 6856/www.barbarobar. com.ar). Bus 9, 20, 26, 61, 109, 132.

Open 9am-2am Mon-Sat. No credit cards. Map C6. D

order: the entire wine list is available by the glass and the locally-inspired cocktails are equally tempting. Go for one of the tererés served in a maté gourd, or ask the friendly staff to help you choose. If you can’t wait until nightfall, enjoy the new Shout Café & Espresso bar during the day from Monday to Friday.

Maipú 981, y Marcelo T de Alvear, Retiro (4313 2850). Subte C, San Martín/bus 10, 29, 92, 106, 152, 195.

Open from 6pm Mon-Fri; from 8pm Sat. Credit AmEx, V. Map D5. D

San Telmo Doppelgänger ‘This is not for everyone’, Doppelgänger’s wall proudly proclaims, and there’s no point beating around the bush about it – there’s no beer here, no soft drinks, and the only wine you’ll find has been artfully mixed with a variety of spirits. Instead, you’ll find over 100 cocktails made from both classic and exotic liquors. Never tried the saffron-infused Strega? Opt for the Pie-O-My – cardamom flavoured vodka, saké, Strega, orange bitters and lemon peel. As you imbibe, you can graze on tapas or tuck in to a full meal. Or, ask for a Humpty Dumpty and the expert bartenders will fix up a cocktail based on your flavour and liquor preferences.

Juan de Garay 500, y Bolívar (4300 0201/www.doppelganger.com.ar).

Subte C, San Juan/bus 159, 168, 195.

Open 7pm-2am Tue-Thu; 7pm-4am Fri; 8pm-4am Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map B4.

Gibraltar This authentic British pub is as much of a favourite with the after-officethree-pints-and-home-to-the-wife crowd as with the multitude of drink-till-youdrop expats and backpackers. It serves up well-priced beer in pint glasses and an exhaustive collection of whiskies.

Try the beef and ale pie or the heavenly fish and chips, and you’ll have to prepare to loosen a belt notch for the Full English Breakfast. The pub is packed on weekends, when it gets louder and louder until, after midnight, it turns into a standing room-only, noisy, flirtatious little hotspot. Happy hour specials are offered from noon to 10pm daily.

Perú 895, y Estados Unidos (4362 5310). Bus 8, 22, 24, 29, 70, 86, 159.

Open noon-5am daily. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map B4. D

Trova (see p82)

74 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015/16

Krakow Krakow’s reasonable prices and fun atmosphere help bring many visitors to its doors. Befitting its Polish theme, Krakow’s menu boasts an impressive range of beers and vodkas, and if your favourite cocktail isn’t listed, the friendly staff will happily make it for you. Watch sports on the big screen, play Jenga or Nintendo and sample hearty European dishes like Polish sausage. You’ll have to turn up early if you want to bag one of the comfy sofas,

DIEGO QUIROGA

México 355, entre Defensa y Balcarce (4331 1086). Bus 2, 29, 86, 93, 152.

Open noon-4pm Mon-Fri; from 6pm Tue-Fri; from 9pm Sat. No credit cards. Map B5. D

Puerto Madero Bars

The Library Lounge One of the city’s hands-down sexiest bars, the Library Lounge at Faena Hotel Buenos Aires (see p140) effortlessly meshes the classic (crystal chandeliers, leather sofas) and postmodern (stuffed antelope heads).

Befitting the plush setting, cocktails feature the likes of champagne and Grey Goose vodka (and have the prices to match), and during the afternoon there’s English High Tea. Faena Hotel Buenos Aires, Martha Salotti 445, Dique 2, Madero Este (4010 9000/www.faena.com). Bus 2, 111, 129. Open 10am-2am daily.

Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map B5. D

Recoleta

New in Town Kiboo

A discreet sign marks the entrance to Buenos Aires’s first (and so far, only) saké bar, where the JapaneseArgentinian owners make the case for Japanese saké and Korean soju concoctions as the city’s next cocktails of choice. Try the Go cocktail, a refreshing mix of saké, lime, kiwi, sesame, cucumber and aloe vera juice that pairs perfectly with the tender pork ribs marinated in Ichiban beer. It’s not just the liquors, but the ambience that sets Kiboo apart; hip but tranquil sounds from the in-house DJ make it a perfect dinner date or after office spot. Sample imported bottles of saké and soju like Ozeki and Jinro Gold at the bar, sit Japanese style – yes, that means on the ground – on the mezzanine level or take in views of Palermo from the rooftop terrace.

Honduras 5248, y Uriarte (4831 2456/www.kiboosakebar.com.ar). Bus 34, 39, 55, 108, 111. Open 8pmmidnight Tue, Wed; 8pm-3am Thu-Sat. No credit cards. Map G2. D

but think twice before attempting a drinking contest with vodka-enthusiast co-owner Tadeusz. If you’re after more Polish comfort food, check out Krakow’s Palermo restaurant (see p61).

Venezuela 474, entre Defensa y Bolívar (4342 3916/www.krakow-cafe.com.ar).

Subte E, Belgrano/bus 2, 29, 45, 130.

Open 5pm-3am Mon-Thu; 5pm-5am Fri; 6pm-5am Sat; 6pm-3am Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map B4. D La Poesía Having been closed since the late 1980s, romantic La Poesía opened again in 2008, under the deft management of the crew from nearby El Federal (see p22). This cosy, warmly-lit café-bar gathers an eclectic clutch of San Telmo regulars and tourists who visit for a coffee and a chat, for the extensive menu of picadas and mains, and for the generally pleasant ambience.

Chile 502, y Bolívar (4300 7340/www. cafelapoesia.com.ar). Bus 29, 45, 86.

Open 8am-2am Mon-Thu; 8am-4am Fri, Sat; 8am-1am Sun. No credit cards. Map B4. D

La Puerta Roja La Puerta Roja (‘the red door’, which is all that marks the spot) is a pleasure: a classic, no-nonsense bar. The prices are set to attract the youngsters, backpackers and resident foreigners who pack the place out till late. The space is large, the music eclectic, the decor simple and there isn’t a cocktail umbrella in sight. Happy hour on certain spirits and microbrewery beers – try the Kingston stout – lasts all the way from noon to 10pm. The menu features cheap, tasty and filling food such as nachos, hamburgers and spicy chicken wings.

Chacabuco 733, entre Chile y Avenida Independencia (4362 5649/www.la puertaroja.com.ar). Subte C, Independencia/bus 24, 67, 98, 100, 129. Open noon-4am Mon, Sun; noon-5am Tue-Sat. No credit cards.

Map B4. D Rubik Tucked away on calle Bolívar in an area more known for smoky parrillas and dusty cafés, Rubik bar has done a fair job attracting a mix of local hipsters and foreigners from the nearby hostels.

76 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015/16

They come for the pool table, the live footy matches and most of all, for the convivial and friendly atmosphere. A menu featuring pints at AR$60 and American-style comfort food like tacos, nachos, chips and mini-burgers (sliders) ensure a busy bar area. There are no bells and whistles here, this is just a fun, back-to-basics pub.

Bolívar 825, y Avenida Independencia (www.rubikba.com). Bus 61, 74, 130.

Open 6pm-4am Mon, Wed, Thu; 6pm-5am Fri, Sat. Credit MC. Map B4.

Será de Dios When you need a direct line to the Holy Spirit, look no further than Será de Dios (Will of God). Perhaps it’s the stained-glass windows or the wall of bottles backlit by fairy lights that’s like an incandescent, boozy shrine, but this place make you want to seek solace in hard liquor. Two-for-one cocktails until 10pm makes that an easy enough task, and hearty bar grub is a godsend when stamina starts to run low. The Rolling Stones and Stereophonics are the soundtrack to a night of lounging about on devilishly red couches.

!Milión Almost certainly the most beautiful, graceful bar in Buenos Aires, Milión is over a decade into its reign and still outshining the competition. From your very first sight of the place, the sense of elegance and occasion is dazzling.

Happy Hour from 6pm to 9pm is the perfect way to end a hard day’s work on a glamorous note, and it’s easy to continue in style on Saturday mornings thanks to Milión’s brunch offerings.

Paraná 1048, entre Marcelo T de Alvear y Avenida Santa Fe (4815 9925/www.milion.com.ar). Bus 5, 10, 12, 101, 150. Open noon-2am Mon-Wed; noon-3am Thu; noon-4am Fri, Sat; 8pm-2am Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D5. D Pony Line Bar Inspired by polo, the sport of kings, and kitted out in brown leather and riding motifs, the Pony Line Bar at the Four Seasons Hotel (see p141) feels classy rather than kitsch. Prop yourself up at the bar and choose from an eclectic cocktail menu designed by master mixologist and sommelier Sebastián Maggi. Time Out loves the light-green concoction Descoya, with Absolut Vodka, torrontés wine, San Germain and pisco, served up in a martini glass complete with a delicious little green olive.

Posadas 1086/88, y Avenida 9 de Julio (4321 1730/www.elenaponyline.com).

Bus 17, 60, 75, 101. Open 11am-3am Mon-Fri; 6pm-3am Sat; 5pm-1am Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D5. D The Shamrock Loud music, happy hour until midnight and excellent value drinks: what more could you want? This Irish bar is very much a BA classic, particularly with the young student crowd. From Thursday to Saturday you should take care to arrive early if you want to grab a bar stool. The pub gets filled to the brim as a pre-drinking spot for Shamrock Basement (see p91), which is

Bars

welcome addition to the plethora of Palermo Soho nightspots. However, the real pull here is the spectacular VIP terrace. You’ll need a password to get in, which can be found on Facebook, but once there you’ll find chic, low-lit tables and stunning views of the surrounding barrio.

Armenia 1439, entre Gorriti y Cabrera (4833 1141). Bus 39, 55, 57. Open 6pm-1am Tue-Thu; 6pm-3.30am Fri; 8pm-4am Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2. D Cervecería Nacional Cervecería Nacional packs the plus points into its small, simple interior. It draws a crowd every night it’s open thanks to its quality happy hour deal (two pints for AR$70 between 6pm and 8pm). On tap are a rubia, roja and IPA, and there are also 50 other varieties of bottled beer stacked high on the shelves. Soak up all that booze with a stellar lamb empanada or Tuesday night’s special of bondiola y papas bravas.

Arévalo 1588, y Gorriti (4771 3383).

Bus 39, 57, 93, 108. Open 6pmmidnight Tue-Thu; 6pm-1am Fri, Sat. No credit cards. Map H2. D

Bárbaro Bar (see p74)

conveniently located downstairs. The owner spends his life researching music and it certainly pays off: this place plays some of the best music in Buenos Aires.

Rodríguez Peña 1220, entre Arenales y Juncal (4812 3584). Subte D, Callao/ bus 37, 39, 59, 101, 102, 111, 124, 132, 152. Open from 6pm Mon-Fri; from 10pm Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map E5. D

Palermo Antares Real ale-lovers, rejoice: this place is a haven for beer fans craving a proper pint, and the adventurous who want to try something different. Antares’s mission is to introduce customers to the delights of its various brews, including Scotch ale, honey beer and cream stout.

The bar attracts folks of all sorts, from brew connoisseurs to lager louts who don’t care where the beer comes from.

The food is mostly hearty Bavarian fare, but also includes tapas, tablas de picadas and main courses cooked using the house beers.

Armenia 1447, entre Gorriti y Cabrera (4833 9611/www.cervezaantares.com).

Bus 39, 55, 110, 140, 141, 151, 168.

Open from 6pm daily. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2. D Other locations Bolívar 491, San Telmo (4342 3836); Arévalo 2876, Las Cañitas (4772 2133).

The Bangalore Pub & Curry House Think warm woods, soft chairs, ceiling fans and a highly convivial atmosphere, and you’ve some idea of what this colonial-style establishment has to offer. The bar consistently fills to the brim, with crowds of locals and foreigners often spilling outside to the street. That popularity is thanks in no small part to the Bangalore’s generous jugs of gin and tonic, which can be mixed with lavender or ginger syrup.

Even on the most crowded night (of which there are many), the cushionlined nooks upstairs make for a cosy place for a round of pints and subcontinental cuisine. A plate of spicy samosas and the Indian platter – three types of curry and bread – are perfect for sharing.

Humboldt 1416, y Niceto Vega (4779 2621). Bus 55, 93, 108, 111, 151, 168. Open 4pm-4am daily. Credit V. Map G2. D

Bar du Marché Neighbouring wine store Siete Spirits (see p108) provides the 50 plus wines available at Bar du Marché, which serves the elixir by the glass, in halfand three-quarter-litre measures and by the bottle, allowing you to try multiple wines in one night without falling off your chair. There are extensive dining options and a sushi bar upstairs, but the best way to appreciate Bar du Marché’s Parisian bistro atmosphere is with the

78 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015/16

wine and cheese tasting plate – three glasses of wine and three varieties of cheese for AR$165, which is available from 5pm to 8pm.

Nicaragua 5946, entre Arévalo y Ravignani (4778 1050/www.bardu marchepalermo.com). Subte D, Ministro Carranza/bus 39, 93, 111. Open 9.30am-midnight Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H3. D

Ferona Club Social Set in a gorgeous house, complete with winding staircase and rooftop terrace, BA’s place to see and be seen (and simply have fun) is just as attractive as the people that frequent it. The secret formula? Excellent music, tasteful decor (including vintage radios) and easily the best caipiroskas in the city.

On warmer nights, sip cocktails under the stars, but as the evening turns into morning, the living room downstairs is the place to be: the music gets louder, the crowd gets merrier and the pretty people start dancing. Be prepared to queue at the weekends.

Address provided at time of booking (mobile 15 6722 6784). Bus 39, 140, 151, 166. Open Restaurant 9.30pmmidnight Wed-Sat with reservation.

Bar 12.30-5am Wed-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H2.

Belushi Well-dressed Palermites come in Festival droves to this swanky bar-boliche, Part bar, part restaurant, part art hoping to sip on a martini while gallery, but 100 percent buena rubbing shoulders with local onda, this spot fills a void in celebrities and models. the Palermo scene.

Typically packed out the Arrive before midnight three nights of the week and pop upstairs to see Sky high it’s open, Belushi with its the art exhibitions, then On balmy nights enjoy terrace, bar area and the swanky rooftop bars stay until the wee hours space out back makes for at Hotel Pulitzer (see of the morning sipping the perfect people the affordable, but p138) and CasaSur watching venue. If the well-crafted cocktails as Palermo (see martinis and cosmopolitans the guest DJs spin pop and p142). don’t drain your wallet, the electronic beats.

Gorriti 5741, entre Bonpland y varied food menu is worth a peek, Carranza (4775 6733). Bus 39, 93, with everything from grilled sweetbreads to sushi on offer to satisfy 108, 111, 140. Open 8pm-3am Tue-Thu; 9pm-5am Fri, Sat. No credit your late-night munchies. cards. Map H2. D Honduras 5333, y Godoy Cruz (4831 8665/www.belushi.com.ar). Bus 34, 55, 151. Open from 9pm Thu-Sat. Credit Frank’s With one of the strangest entrance AmEx, MC, V. Map G2. D policies (you have to first enter a phone booth and mark a secret code) and The Bowie Artisanal beers, quality bar food and a decor akin to a private gentlemen’s daily happy hour make The Bowie a club, this speakeasy is destined to

TOP TIP!

DIEGO QUIROGA

Gorriti 4389, y Julián Álvarez (mobile 15 5348 4509/www.nolabuenosaires. com). Bus 15, 39, 99, 110, 168. Open 5pm-midnight Mon, Wed-Fri; 1pm-midnight Sat, Sun. No credit cards. Map F2. D

Bars

NEW On Tap As little as a year ago, it was a novelty to find a bar with just two beers on tap.

The fittingly named On Tap ups the ante considerably with 20 draught beers, making it one of the best places in town to sample Argentina’s artisanal cerveza. Add gourmet burgers and fries to the menu and On Tap has its finger firmly on the pulse of Palermo’s latest obsession. However, there’s clearly no shortage of demand for craft brew and burger joints, as On Tap is consistently filled to the brim, especially during the daily happy hour from 6pm to 8.30pm, when pints go for AR$40.

Costa Rica 5527, y Humboldt (3016 2863/www.ontap.com.ar). Bus 34, 39, 93, 111. Open 6pm-midnight Tue, Wed, Sun; 6pm-1am Thu-Sat. No credit cards. Map H3.D

BASA Bar (see p74)

impress. The striking two-storey bar serves up traditional and signature cocktails; the ginger martini and the Sazerac (whisky, angostura bitters, lemon and absinthe) are lovely twists on the classics. As for the decor, money seems to have been no object, with booths and menus all covered in soft leather. And if you’re interested in nursing more than one drink all night, hopefully money is no object for you either. Consult Facebook or Twitter for the not-so-secret code.

Arévalo 1445, y Niceto Vega (4777 6541/www.franks-bar.com). Bus 39, 93, 108, 168. Open 9pm-3am Wed-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H2. D Isabel In Isabel’s dramatic interior, musicians, actors and model types sip gimlets and mai tais, and do a sterling job of looking like they’re each starring in their own perfume advert. Quality trumps quantity on the sushi menu – and out back, a fire-lit patio adds to the sensual experience. Ask about the cocktails of the month, which cost AR$80, but be careful not to overdo it or you’ll end up lost in the hall-of-mirrors bathroom.

Uriarte 1664, entre Honduras y El Salvador (4834 6969/www.isabelbar. com). Bus 34, 39, 55, 108, 140, 166.

Open 7.30pm-3.30am Wed, Thu; 7.30pm-4am Fri; 9pm-4.30am Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2. D Leitmotiv What more could you want in a bar than a bunch of hot hipster chicks in retro dresses carrying around hand-held blow torches to light unique hand-crafted drinks? Head up to the rooftop bar, tell the bartender what you want, and have her make you a refreshing concoction. Time Out

reccommends the #889: Príncipe de los Apóstoles gin (locally-made Argentinian gin infused with yerba mate), Hesperidina, lime juice, tonic, orange oil and rosemary smoke.

Cabrera 5696, y Bonpland (4777 0743). Bus 39, 93. Open 7pm-2am Wed, Thu; 7pm-4am Fri; 8pm-4am Sat. No credit cards. Map H2. D M Salumería Right next door to M Bar (see p60), this cosy bar-cum-café-cum-shop is packed with the finer things in life: wines from Italy, Argentina and other parts of South America, aperitifs, high-quality pastas, olives and pastries. Wine tastings of roughly six vinos are led by sommelier Mariana Torta on Fridays at 6.30pm (AR$200-$350). Also consider trying the selection of tasty cheeses and the salami that hangs enticingly from the bar. Large groups should enquire about personalised events.

El Salvador 5777, y Carranza (4778 0655). Bus 39, 57, 93, 140, 166, 168.

Open 12.30-7.30pm Mon; 12.30-11pm Tue, Wed; 12.30pm-midnight Thu-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H3. D Magdalena’s Party Magdalena’s Party is the primary watering hole of English-speaking expats. It’s not only the two-for-one drink specials and chance to use their mother tongue that keeps them coming though; the menu serves American classics like burritos, onion rings and nachos just the way gringos like them (they even have ‘real’ bacon here).

Sunday morning sees brunch specials and jugs of mimosas going out to every table. DJs spin indie and hip hop tunes from Thursday to Saturday, with happy hour specials running from noon to midnight.

80 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015/16

Thames 1795, y Costa Rica (4833 9127/www.magdalenasparty.com). Bus 39, 55, 57. Open noon-2am Tue, Wed; noon-4am Thu-Sat; noon-6pm Sun. No credit cards. Map G3. D Mundo Bizarro An institution since 1997, Mundo Bizarro is one of BA’s all-time great hedonistic, rocking hotspots with a sharp red and black interior and over 50 expertly crafted cocktails. Drink specials change monthly, with both classic cocktails and original concoctions on rotation. As for the food, a selection of Tex-Mex fare is served. The place doesn’t really heat up until after 1am; from then on it’s a heady mix of music and sociable people with plenty of rock style.

Serrano 1222, y Avenida Córdoba (4773 1967). Bus 15, 39, 55, 140, 151, 168. Open 8pm-3am Mon-Wed; 8pm-4am Thu; 8pm-5am Fri, Sat. No credit cards. Map G2. D NOLA Gastropub New Orleanian Liza Puglia and her porteño boyfriend Francisco ‘Ticol’ Terren have brought the best of their closed-door restaurant – home-brewed artisan beer and Cajun chicken with a Mexican twist – to the happy punters of Palermo. Kicks come in the form of the explosively spicy gumbo, juicy fried chicken and coleslaw, and Terren’s intense, yet balanced brews.

Add Puglia’s picante sauces and the rustic yet funky interior and it’s no wonder this place is bursting at the seams most nights. Be sure to drop in for happy hour from 5pm to 8pm for AR$30 pints. Even better, NOLA is also now open at lunchtime at the weekends; the chicken and waffles are the perfect antidote to even the nastiest of hangovers.

Rey de Copas Pass through the tiled dining room and pretty patio and you’ll discover a bar like no other in the city. Hitting the ethno-chic nail firmly on the head, this romantically lit, cavernous space is decorated with a mishmash of antique pieces: Tibetan masks, Venetian marionettes and 19th-century French tiles all look like they belong together. It’s hardly any wonder this place oozes style – the owner is the son of Uruguay’s best-known artist, Carlos Páez Vilaró.

Gorriti 5176, entre Thames y Uriarte (2068 5220). Bus 39, 55, 140, 168.

Open from 7pm Wed-Sat. No credit cards. Map G2. D Río Café This resto-bar’s interior is all sumptuous brown leather, armchairs and floor-to-ceiling mirrors: think sultry 1940s saloon updated for the young and chic. At the bar the menu is, for the most part, adventurous but sophisticated, with twists on classic cocktails like the Cherry Collins. And instead of the Argentinian favourite mix of fernet and Coke, you’ll find a Chic Fernet – fernet, orange juice, fresh thyme and tonic. Come Wednesday night, Rocking Rio (www.facebook. com/rockingrioba) is the place to be.

BA’s most beautiful turn out for the weekly event to listen to DJs and sip cocktails on the leafy patio.

Honduras 4772, entre Malabia y Armenia (4832 2318/www.riocafe.com. ar). Bus 15, 34, 39, 151, 168. Open 7pm-5am Tue-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3. D The Shanghai Dragon The people behind BA’s most popular pubs – the Bangalore (see p78) and Gibraltar (see p74) – have done it again, this time on a quiet residential Palermo street, and with a Chinese twist. Blood-red walls, carpeted floors, lots of beer on tap and good value Chinese grub make The Shanghai Dragon a down-to-earth hangout for

Bars

those sick of Palermo ponce. Large plates of Chinese food make a decent meal or two, and at a price that justifies buying another round of pints. There’s no pretension here: in authentic pub style, it’s just decent indie and reggae tunes and plenty of buena onda.

Aráoz 1199, y Mason (2058 9387).

Bus 39, 99, 106, 110, 140, 151, 168.

Open 5pm-3am Mon-Wed; 5pm-4am Thu; 5pm-5am Fri, Sat; 6pm-2am Sun. Credit MC, V. Map G2. D

familiarity in the form of rock ’n’ pop classics accompanied by budgetfriendly drinks. Hit the wildly popular happy hour from 7pm to midnight and expect things to get messy. Admission is AR$80 for men who arrive after midnight on Friday and Saturday nights, and includes a drink.

Costa Rica 4619, y Armenia (4831 3276/www.sugarbuenosaires.com). Bus 15, 34, 39, 141. Open from 6pm Tue-Fri; from noon Sat, Sun. No credit cards. Map G3. D

Sheldon Conveniently set in the heart of Plaza Serrano, Sheldon beats many neighbouring mediocre and overpriced bars thanks to its excellent drinks, unpretentious, eclectic crowd and, more importantly, free live music every day of the week. Jazz on Tuesdays and rock bands on Sundays are the most popular nights, but the funky decor and good drinks can (and should) be enjoyed any day. For drinks, Time Out recommends the passionfruit, lime and vodka-based Pasión Sheldon, or the innovative concoction, Dulce Ginger, made with home-made apple jam and ginger ale.

Honduras 4969, y Serrano (4832 6195). Bus 15, 34. Open 6.30pm-3am Mon-Thu; 11am-5am Fri-Sun. No credit cards. Map G2. D

Trova Sleek wine bar Trova is the perfect place to try as many Argentinian wines as you can handle. The vuelos – three small glasses for your sampling pleasure – should start things off nicely, and if you fancy refining your palate further, head to one of the wine tastings on Tuesdays at 7.30pm (AR$150 for five wines) or sign up for a wine course (from AR$600 for four classes). Trova’s above average bar food includes a delectable range of generous tapas and mains, which are best accompanied by the vino sin etiqueta (unlabelled wine) followed by a slice of tangy cheesecake.

Honduras 5903, y Ravignani (4774 6727). Bus 39, 93, 108, 140, 151.

Open 6pm-1am Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H2. D

Soria Soria is a neighbourhood favourite thanks to its combination of haven-like garden setting, mood lighting, on-the-beat music and friendly staff who ensure this unpretentious watering hole feels as laid-back as your friend’s backyard. The finger-licking calamares go down nicely with the reasonably priced drinks, as up-andcoming DJs spin their stuff for a crowd of dapper twentysomethings.

Gorriti 5151, entre Thames y Uriarte (4832 1745). Bus 39, 151, 168. Open 8pm-2am Tue; 8pm-2.30am Wed; 8pm-3am Thu; 9pm-5am Fri, Sat. No credit cards. Map G2. D

Verne Club Master mixologist and owner Fede Cuco drew his inspiration from Jules Verne for this retro-fabulous Palermo bar. The menu itself is a trip around the world, with a section dedicated to drinks inspired by all the cities Phileas Fogg visited, like the Jazmín Blanco from Bombay (honey, lemon, cardamom, gin and jasmine tea) and the London-inspired Breakfast Martini (gin, cointreau, lemon and marmalade).

You’d never guess from the elegant interior that hot dogs were on the menu, but El Camino de Francia, with caramelised onion, goat’s cheese and mustard mayo is tastier than any hot dog ought to be.

Medrano 1475, y Costa Rica (4822 0980). Bus 39, 92, 111, 141, 160.

Open from 8pm Wed-Fri; from 9pm Mon, Tue, Sat, Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G4. D

The Steve For its central Palermo location, The Steve has achieved the unthinkable. It’s trendy yet welcoming, has a range of affordable, delicious drinks and – aside from the imposing exterior – is entirely unpretentious. The friendly service and stylish, vintage touches add to the appeal, and the jugs and half-pint tankards of gin and tonic, margarita and Campari don’t hurt either. Chat on the leafy patio, make friends at the communal table or sit back in an intimate booth admiring the hipsters around you. As the bar’s namesake Steve McQueen would surely agree: The Steve really is the King of Cool.

El Salvador 4968, y Thames (mobile 15 6688 3655). Bus 39, 55, 140, 151, 168. Open 6pm-1am Tue, Wed; 6pm-3am Thu-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3. D Sugar If your love affair with cumbia and reggaeton has reached a plateau, head to expat haunt Sugar for sweet 82 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015/16

!Victoria Brown Only those in the loop will know to skip Victoria Brown’s café and head straight to the bar, the entrance to which is camouflaged by a brick wall. Once inside, you’ll find an extravaganza of industrial chic and steampunk decor, dotted with portraits of none other than Queen Victoria. The menu presents some rather complex concoctions – a flavour compass is included, labeling drinks as herbal and dry, delicate and refreshing or strong and seductive – but the cocktails are served in refreshingly simple and elegant glasses. Book ahead if you plan to eat and, no matter the occasion, dress to impress.

Costa Rica 4827, y Jorge Luis Borges (4831 0831/www.victoriabrownbar. com). Bus 34, 36, 39, 57. Open 8pm-4am Tue-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3. D

Bars Insiders´ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015/16 Time Out 83

Bars

Las Cañitas Chupitos The name says it all: Chupitos, meaning ‘shots’, is a grungy little haven for study abroad students and twenty something backpackers looking to meet like-minded revellers. The newest location in Las Cañitas has all the favourites from the Palermo Hollywood and Palermo Soho joints, and between the spicy Pinche Cabrón and flaming Harry Potter vodka shots you’re sure to have a night to remember (or not).

Beer pong also keeps the ball rolling and for when those late night munchies strike, the Palermo Hollywood location sells fast food.

Arévalo 2863, y Baez (4774 3390).

Subte D, Ministro Carranza/bus 10, 15, 68, 93, 95, 118, 152, 160, 161, 166, 194. Open 8pm-3am Tue-Thu; 10pm-5am Fri, Sat. Credit MC, V. Map H4. D Other locations Gorriti 5033, Palermo (4831 9690); Bonpland 1670, Palermo (4775 1041).

Almagro and Villa Crespo 878 Often listed by local bartenders as their favourite cocktail bar, 878 retains its legendary status as one of the city’s top drinking holes. Ring the bell at the unmarked door and you’ll be shown into a slick, low-lit space – a call back to its earlier days as a speakeasy. As it’s no longer as clandestino as it used to be (Fridays and Saturdays are packed), pop in earlier during the week for a more casual drink and dinner. The stellar cocktails and atmosphere have helped this bar into the ranks of many a night owl’s top ten.

Thames 878, entre Loyola y Aguirre, Villa Crespo (4773 1098/www.878bar. com.ar). Bus 55, 127, 151. Open from 7pm Mon-Fri; from 8pm Sat, Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2. D

Guarda la Vieja This local Almagro hotspot fills at the weekend with actors performing in the

nearby theatres and an arty twenty- to thirtysomething crowd. The exposed brickwork is complimented by colourful canvases painted by local artists and projections of reggae videos in the background. But what calls for the most attention here is the tasty, affordable food: the meat empanadas are a speciality, as are the picadas. A play on the name of the street on which it is located, ‘Guarda la Vieja’ means ‘beware of the old woman’, but there’s nothing to be afraid of here.

Billinghurst 699, y Guardia Vieja, Almagro (4863 7923). Subte B, Carlos Gardel/bus 92, 128. Open from 6pm daily. No credit cards. Map F2. D NEW Hops Of course Villa Crespo wasn’t going to let Palermo hog all the craft breweries.

The owners of Hops are experts in all things beer and curate a selection of light to dark beers ranging in alcohol and hops content, with most brewed in-house and others courtesy of local guest breweries. The India Pale Ale’s porteño cousin, the Buenos Aires Pale

A brewing revolution

Ale pairs nicely with an order of the house chips and home-made goulashstuffed empanadas. Decorated with wooden pallet shelves, all hand-made by the owners, this bar is packed both at the weekend and after work. Stop by and grab a pint for AR$35 during the daily happy hour from 6pm to 9pm.

Castillo 422, entre Malabia y Avenida Scalabrini Ortiz, Villa Crespo (www. facebook.com/hopscerveza). Bus 15, 19, 24, 55, 57. Open 6pm-1am Wed-Thu; 6pm-3am Fri-Sat. No credit cards.

Map G2. D Lo de Roberto Step back in time to the BA of yesteryear in this historic bar on a far-flung corner of Plaza Almagro. It’s the former watering hole of Carlos Gardel, but the star here nowadays is 83-year-old Osvaldo Peredo, a faded tango singer who is enjoying a renaissance among a devoted crowd of young people. A bullet hole in the front window and an ancient manual cash register provide the perfect backdrop for Peredo’s crude, lunfardo-laced tangos that are lapped up by fernet-and-Cokesipping university students. Other equally impassioned crooners perform on other nights, from around 11.30pm.

Bulnes 331, y Perón, Almagro. Subte B, Medrano/bus 124, 160, 168. Open 6pm-3am Tue-Fri; 10pm-3am Sat. No credit cards. Map E2.

!Sr Duncan Something magical happens when you enter Sr Duncan. Ring the bell on the unsigned door, then glide up the staircase to an art nouveau mansion replete with high ceilings and stained-glass windows. A swing jazz band could be playing in one corner, a maestro might be tinkling on the grand piano or a couple might be dancing tango. You might think you’ve been transported to another era, especially when you see the food and drink prices, which are nice change from Palermo’s inflated price tags. Check Sr Duncan’s Facebook page for the packed schedule of events.

Avenida Rivadavia 3832, y Jeronimo Salguero, Almagro (4958 3633). Subte A, Castro Barros/bus 2, 5, 8, 128, 160.

Open from 7pm daily Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map E1. D

Belgrano On Tap

The word cerveza has long been synonymous with Quilmes in Buenos Aires, but a recent explosion of craft breweries and gastropubs has introduced many more options for the discerning beer-lover. Cervecería Nacional (see p78) Bodega Cervecera (El Salvador 5100, 4831 4278), Antares (see p78) and Buena Birra Social Club (Zapiola 1353, mobile 15 6428 3457, www. buenabirrasocialclub.com) were among the first bars to bring artisanal beer to the city. The former two sell hundreds of

bottles of craft beer from around Argentina, while the latter serve their own in-house brews on tap. Mendocino brewery Jerome Brew Pub (Malabia 1401, 4146 1444) and fried chicken and beer joint NOLA Gastropub (see p80) brought beer to a wider audience in 2014, while 2015’s openings include On Tap (see p80) in Palermo and Hops (see p84) in Villa Crespo.

Gourmet fast food joints (see p25) are increasingly offering craft beer on tap, and many of the above places have

84 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015/16

above average bar grub, but Bier Life (Humberto 1° 670, 4307 6315, www. bierlife.com) takes the combination of good beer and good food to a whole new level. The San Telmo gastro-bar infuses its food with cerveza to create dishes such as salmon marinated in hops and a very boozy birramisu.

Wherever you go, be sure to pick up a bottle or two of Argentina’s craft beer to take home. Time Out’s favourite brands include La Loggia, Me echó la Burra, Broeders and Juguetes Perdidos.

Puerta Uno Knock a few times on the discreet black door off Belgrano’s Chinatown, and you might think you were in the wrong place. But once inside, the loud music, dim lighting and open-air patios make this secret nightspot a thoroughly buzzing venue. The drinks menu glitters with original touches like the Cucumber Collins and the Absolut Red Hot, while food options include pizzas and picadas.

The secret’s out, however, so be sure to make a reservation.

Juramento 1667, y Montañeses (4706 1522/www.puertauno.com). Bus 15, 80, 113, 130. Open 7.30pm-2am Tue, Wed; 8pm-4am Thu-Sat. No credit cards. D

Bars Insiders´ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015/16 Time Out 85

Clubbing in BA: a survival guide Clubs

Rosie Hilder teaches you how to party like the locals. Illustration by Gustavo Guevara

The scene

Now that you know how to survive a night of clubbing in BA (see left), all that remains is to decide which club to hit. Those after an outlandish extravaganza might enjoy Niceto Club’s (see p90) Club 69, while if you’re looking for a more sophisticated evening, head to Jet (see p88). For everything in-between, see our listings.

Undecided clubgoers can hang around Avenida Juan B Justo and calle Honduras in Palermo, where you’ll find megaclubs like Liv (see p88) and Rosebar (Honduras 5445).

If you want to catch an electronic music festival while you’re in Argentina, check out our round up of BA’s best summer festivals (see p90).

Venues

A

dapting to Buenos Aires’s clubbing scene requires a little readjustment – mainly of your body clock. Follow these five rules to go BA’s clubbing distance.

1. BE FASHIONABLY LATE Start the evening too early, and you’re destined to end up asleep on the dancefloor, so do like the locals and take a disco nap before beginning your previa (pre-party drinks) at around 11pm. Head to Magdalena’s Party (see p80) for drinks deals and revelry or have a cocktail in the open air at Festival (see p78), but wherever you start the night don’t even consider hitting the boliche until 1am. Note that most Argentinians aren’t big drinkers by American or European standards – which is probably why they can keep going until sunrise – so unless you think pulling and puking go hand in hand, lay off the shots and master the art of sipping.

2. LOOK THE PART Like it or lump it, you’ll have to look your best to get past BA’s bouncers.

Men, leave your flip flops and shorts at home or forget it, and while ladies have a lot more leeway when it comes to the dress code, a pair of shiny leggings or a short skirt

certainly won’t go amiss. Other ways to get past the bouncers involve accentuating your poor Spanish, having two X chromosomes, or getting on the guest list by sending your name to the promoter – look for a contact and the word lista on the club’s Facebook page. You can get in free to Thursday night’s hip hop fest at M.O.D Variete Club (see p90) by picking up a wristband beforehand at Magdalena’s party.

3. FOLLOW THE CROWD So you’ve made it to the bar, but there are still two whole queues between you and your drink. This system is designed to make things easier, but of course has the opposite effect, and is likely another reason the locals aren’t off their faces. First, go to the caja (a bored looking person manning a till) and exchange your pesos for a receipt, then shimmy along the bar and wave your ticket in the face of anyone who looks like they’re making drinks. Like anywhere else in the world, pretty girls and aggressive blokes get priority. Unlike anywhere else in the world, fernet and Coke is the order of the night.

4. TALK THE TALK Everyone knows the language of love speaks volumes, but if you

86 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015/16

want to impress with your knowledge of the local lingo, try ‘sos hermoso/a’ (you’re beautiful), the more practical ‘¿bailemos?’ (shall we dance?), or go all out with ‘deberías caminar a la sombra porque los bombones derriten al sol’ – which suggests the object of your desire is so hot they’ll melt in the sun. You could also try ‘el mundo es un pañuelo, y vos sos mi moco preferido’ (the world is a handkerchief and you are my favourite piece of snot), but we can’t guarantee you won’t get a few strange looks.

5. SEIZE THE DAY Soak up all that booze post-boogie with a choripán from a stand on the Costanera, or a kebab from Palermo’s Siniór Shawarma (Honduras 5328). If the next day still brings a world of pain (whoever said fernet doesn’t give you a hangover was lying), get a full English breakfast at Full City Coffee House (see p23) or Gibraltar (see p74), a fruity burst of energy at juice bar The Factory (see p22), or head to Home Hotel (see 143) for brunch, booze and a massage, not necessarily in that order. You’ll be ready to get back out there before you can say siesta.

!Alsina The cathedral-like Alsina is the talk of electro partyland these days, thanks to the hi-fi sound and consistently strong line-up of international names (Gui Boratto, Richie Hawtin, Fedde Legrande, Gareth Emery and Calvin Harris to name a few), which ensures that the 1,500-head capacity is often reached early on in the night. Electro party State takes place once a month on a Friday – check the website to find out when the next one will be. Sunday’s Club One attracts an experienced party-hard crowd and is pumping by 10pm. The second level balcony offers a nice vantage point for spying on (and momentarily escaping from) the pulsing mob below.

Adolfo Alsina 940, entre Bernardo de Irigoyen y Tacuarí, Monserrat (4331 3231/www.statebsas.com.ar). Subte A, Piedras/bus 10, 17, 59, 70, 86, 91, 98, 129. Open midnight-7am monthly on Fri; 8pm-3am Sun. Map C4.

Bahrein Swish Bahrein is party central for electro-heads, with the basement of this grand former bank pumping out all manner of house, techno and electronic beats at the weekends.

Saturdays usually play host to an international DJ and see attendees flit between the glam Funky Room and the basement, where the party-hungry energy is concentrated. Admission is free before 1am (AR$100 after).

Lavalle 345, entre Reconquista y 25 de Mayo, Microcentro (4314 8886/www. bahreinba.com). Subte B, LN Alem/bus 4, 5, 6, 7, 9, 10, 17, 28, 93. Open from 12.30am Fri, Sat. Map C5.

La Capilla This spectacular former church in Microcentro hosts some of the liveliest parties in the city. Friday’s Fiesta de la Flor combines local reggae bands with dancehall and ska beats, while Saturdays vary between rock nacional and acid house nights from the Psyrockers Crew. Arrive before 1am on Friday nights for free entry to Fiesta de la Flor.

Suipacha 842, entre Avenida Córdoba y Paraguay, Microcentro (mobile 15

Clubs

5114 6481). Subte C, San Martín/bus 5, 6, 10, 17, 26, 39, 59, 60, 106, 109.

Open from 10.30pm Fri, Sat. Map D5.

Club Aráoz With a space big enough to hold over 1,000 clubgoers, five bars under its roof, and plasma and LED TVs throughout the entire venue, it’s safe to say that Club Aráoz can handle whatever gets thrown its way. Despite the huge capacity, there’s nothing to say the multi-tiered club won’t fill up quickly with trendy young clubbers clamouring to get down to the latest Latin, reggaeton and dance hits. The party-hungry crowd gets going as early as 11.30pm (which is indeed quite early for BA), but the fashionably late ladies can still get in cover-free until 3am, and gents until 2.30am.

Aráoz 2424, entre Güemes y Avenida Santa Fe, Palermo (4832 9751/www. clubaraoz.com.ar). Subte D, Scalabrini Ortíz/bus 12, 15, 29, 36, 39, 57, 64.

Open from 1am Fri, Sat. Map F4.

Club Museum This San Telmo club began life as Club Museum, switched to Boutique and is now back to its original incarnation.

Gustave Eiffel, yes, that Gustave Eiffel of a certain French tower, designed the building in 1894, when it was originally intended to be an agricultural showroom. There’s no agriculture these days, but the venue still has beautiful original details. While the impressive windows and stunning façade suggest an evening at the opera, parties at Club Museum are populated by champagne sipping Don Giovannis looking for love to the sound of Latino hits and cumbia remixes. If you’re looking to start the

evening off slowly, head over for dinner and a live show before the tables are cleared and a night at the Museum brings nocturnal creatures to life.

Perú 535, y Venezuela, San Telmo (4781 7061/www.clubmuseum.com.ar).

Subte E, Belgrano/bus 2, 8, 24, 29, 129. Open Restaurant from 10pm Fri, Sat. Club from 1am Fri, Sat. Map B4.

Club Severino While the rest of Buenos Aires is slumbering Monday nights away, the city’s carefree party crowd is dancing it up at Club Severino at Bahrein (see p86). The club night features rock, pop and hip hop hits as well as electro and techno beats spun by a line-up of some of the city’s top DJs. Check the website for themed parties as well as live rock and hip hop acts. Get in for free before 1am by signing up to the online guest list (AR$60 afterwards), sip a fernet and Coke, then start making eyes at smooth porteños keen to have an international experience. Around a thousand punters make Club Severino their party of choice after Monday night’s Bomba de Tiempo (see p130), and for good reason.

Lavalle 345, entre Reconquista y 25 de Mayo, Microcentro (4314 8886/www. clubseverino.com.ar). Subte B, LN Alem/bus 4, 5, 6, 7, 9, 10, 17, 28, 93.

Open midnight-6am Mon. Map C4.

Cocoliche The biggest name in Buenos Aires’s underground night scene is über-cool Cocoliche, a favourite with a young crowd who take their electro very seriously. Minimal house and drum ’n’ bass pound the good-natured crowd to a trance-like pulp in the crammed,

airless basement while happy boozers line the street-level bar. The rotating programme features the beatmaster owners in the box as well as international names.

Avenida Rivadavia 878, entre Suipacha y Esmeralda, Microcentro (www. facebook.com/Cocoliche). Subte A, Piedras/bus 5, 7, 8, 9, 24, 59, 60, 64.

Open from midnight Fri, Sat. Map C4.

BA). Jet’s Thursday night is among the best club nights in the capital, attracting easy-on-the-eye locals and foreigners who come for a generous dose of electro fun. Cocktails and tapas in a chilled-out lounge-bar setting get things started, but the night doesn’t really heat up until 3am. Friday – usually a night of rock and house for a slightly younger crowd – is also popular, and Jet’s the place to be seen on Saturday nights when house beats pump on late into the night. Entry costs AR$150-$200.

Avenida Rafael Obligado 4801, Costanera Norte (4782 5599/www.jet. com.ar). Bus 37, 45, 152, 160. Open from 11pm Thu-Sat. Map F6.

Crobar Friday-night crowds hoof it to this superclub’s thumping night of debauchery Be Techno, which brings in international and local bands, a first-rate crew of DJs mixing techno and house tunes, as well as a rollicking bunch of global party people. Dress is flirty and sporty, and come with Kika money to spare to cover the hefty It seems no club in Buenos Aires will entrance fee and to purchase some ever come close to dethroning Kika as pricey sauce. Saturday nights see a the go-to club on Tuesday nights. mix of clubbers, with cumbia and Dubbed Hype (www.hype-ba.com), reggaeton fans turning out for Tuesday’s event attracts a mix Keek in the main room, of party-hard locals and while the small room hosts foreigners who come to Rheo (see p128), a dance to hip hop, electro, What’s on? gay-friendly electro party. drum ’n’ bass and a little Get the week’s Marcelino Freyre e Infanta bit of dubstep and indie agenda at website Isabel, Paseo de la Infanta, rock. The partying www.buenosaliens.

Palermo (4778 1500/www. continues on Wednesdays, com. crobar.com). Bus 10, 33. as a substantial crowd of Open from midnight Fri, Sat. porteños regularly chooses to Map G5. end after-office evenings at the club in order to enjoy its biggest electro Jet music night. Come the weekend, DJs Any ambitious BA clubber has to reel in large crowds who love to dance make a weekly stopover at Jet. Situated to cachengue beats in the front room, along the posh Costanera Norte club while the latest house beats boom circuit, Jet makes a killing three nights across the back dancefloor. a week as hundreds of night owls put Honduras 5339, entre Avenida Juan B on their best threads in the hope of Justo y Godoy Cruz, Palermo (4137 making the cut (no easy task here, Jet 5311/www.kikaclub.com.ar). Bus 34, has one of the strictest door policies in 39. Open 1-6am Tue-Sun. Map G2.

TOP TIP!

Levitar Right in the heart of Palermo, Levitar is a convenient and popular option after hitting up one of the larger, nearby spots. The spacious indooroutdoor patio is a perfect place to gather with some friends. On weekends, there’s an entry charge after 1am (which gets you one drink on the house), but only if you’re male.

Godoy Cruz 1715, entre Honduras y Gorriti, Palermo (4833 9030/www. levitarba.com). Bus 34, 39, 55, 108, 140, 111. Open from 7pm Wed; from 9pm Thu-Sat. Map G2.

Club Severino

88 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015/16

Liv Every night, clubbers migrate to the nightclubs lining Avenida Juan B Justo.

Of those clubbers, all the young, beautiful twentysomethings line up at Liv. If you like your nights out to be full-body experiences – light on conversation and heavy on pumping beats and people-watching – then Liv’s Friday night should be just your can of Speed. Guest DJs spin electro beats while deep red lighting casts the evening in naughty hues. Saturdays move to a Latin beat, with cachengue keeping the crowd moving.

Avenida Juan B Justo 1658, entre Cabrera y Gorriti, Palermo (mobile 15 6838 8228). Bus 34, 39, 93, 108, 111.

Open 11pm-6am Fri, Sat. Map H2.

Clubs

Electric summer In the mood to dance? Get tickets for you and your friends to one of BA’s many summer electric music festivals. Creamfields (see p8) kicks off the season on November 14, with 2015 marking the 15th anniversary of the mega electronic festival. Like Mike and Dimitri Vegas will headline the event with the likes of Art Department and Popof also making appearances. After Creamfields you’ll have a few weeks to recover your stamina for Sónar (www.sonarbuenosaires.com), which comes to Buenos Aires on December 3. Based in Barcelona, Sónar brings an exciting mix of established names and emerging talents to cities around the world.

The Chemical Brothers will lead a huge line up of DJs at Complejo Al Río (Francisco Narciso de Laprida 300) in Vicente López. Worldwide electronic music festival Ultra (see p8) will also make a stop in Buenos Aires in 2016; keep your eyes peeled for dates and the line up.

M.O.D Variete Club It’s not hard to see where M.O.D Variete Club gets its name – this club’s weekly line-up is as varied as they come. On Friday nights M.O.D vibrates with the latest house and electro tunes, while on Saturdays local edgy teens head-bang to classic rock and indie mixes. The jewel in the crown though is Thursday night’s hip-hop party LOST,

undoubtedly one of the best Buenos Aires has to offer. Also keep an eye on the Facebook page for details of the next Beatles Party – one of Argentina’s Beatles tribute events, which, though taken very seriously, are as much fun as they sound.

Balcarce 563, entre Venezuela y México, San Telmo (www.modclub.com. ar). Bus 2, 4, 8, 20, 22, 29, 33, 61, 64, 74, 86, 93, 103, 111, 129, 130, 143, 152. Open 11.45pm-7am Thu-Sat. Map B4.

nicetoclub.com). Bus 34, 39, 93, 108.

Open 9pm-6am Thu-Sat. Map H2.

Pacha Perched on the Costanera Norte, Pacha, with its gleaming white walls and waterfront views, is impossible to miss. It is currently only open for special events, but it’s worth keeping an eye out for parties when chic clubbers trek out to its sweaty, rollicking dance pit, with no intention of emerging until the sun comes up. International names from !Niceto Club the DJ stratosphere, including One of the most sure-fire spots Popof, Jamie Jones, Dubfire in town to party like you and Chuckie, keep the just don’t care, Niceto party-hard dance Club powers on with a fiends (including a fair After the dance packed roster in each of Not ready to go home? share of hot its two rooms, not to musclemen and Head to Café San mention all the live gigs augmented model Bernardo (Avenida it hosts. Thursday’s types) going until the Corrientes 5436) for glittering freak magnet bright and early hours 24-hour ping Club 69 is an absolute must of the morning. Those pong.

– the pumping crowd made up pretty and rich enough to go mainly of in-the-know foreigners VIP have more chilled-out options rings in the weekend early with a at their disposal. full-on, jaw-dropping show of strippers, Avenida Rafael Obligado 6151, breakdancers and majestic drag queens Costanera Norte (4788 4280/www. bopping in time to the eclectic electro pachabuenosaires.com). Bus 28, 33, 34. beats. Friday’s Invasión fiesta draws in Open see website. Map G6. fun-loving throngs for live indie bands Podestá followed by cumbia electrónica, pop Set in the heart of Palermo Soho, just and rock, while Saturday sees a round the corner from a whole host of rotating line-up of muscial acts and bars suitable for pre-party drinks, this DJs, including electro-centric unpretentious two-floor club with a Undertones. large terrace brings a refreshing Niceto Vega 5510, entre Humboldt y change to the Buenos Aires clubbing Fitz Roy, Palermo (4779 9396/www.

90 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015/16

TOP TIP!

scene. Attracting mainly laid-back, local folk, this popular club is not about who’s wearing what but instead just about having a blooming good time. A generous happy hour (11pm-1am) and other drink promotions get punters merry, while the excellent resident DJs spin rock, house and popular remixes of old-school classics.

Armenia 1740, entre Costa Rica y El Salvador, Palermo (4832 2776/www. podestafotos.com). Bus 15, 34, 36, 39, 55, 57, 106, 110, 140, 151, 160, 168.

Open from 11pm Fri, Sat. Map G3.

The Roxy With a killer weekend line-up featuring two smash-hit club nights for the young, the restless and those just really into music, The Roxy is on top of its game. The spacious lounge area is perfect for relaxing into a cushy couch, knocking back a couple of cocktails and keeping an eye on the stage happenings (usually too-hip-to-care bands and VJs) before stepping out to boogie. Drop in for Friday’s Roxtar rock fiesta or Saturday’s Sympathy for the Party featuring live music then DJs afterwards. If you’re more partial to folk and indie sounds, don’t miss Thursday night’s Underclub. This is also a good spot to hit to continue the night after watching a gig at Niceto Club (see left), which is next door.

Niceto Vega 5542, y Humboldt, Palermo (4777 0997/www.theroxybar. com.ar). Bus 34, 39, 93, 108, 140.

Open from 7pm Thu; from midnight Fri, Sat. Map H2.

Unicorn Huset Despite there being dozens of crowded bars in the area, Unicorn Huset, which lies behind unmarked doors, is the one that punters are prepared to queue for.

With a more relaxed vibe than some of the megaclubs, Unicorn Huset is a great option for those who want to boogie without dressing up to the nines. It has monochrome walls, intimate seating and a spacious deck, and fills to capacity each weekend with

Nightlife index Bars 878 Antares The Bangalore Pub & Curry House Bar du Marché Bar Calixto Bárbaro Bar BASA Bar Belushi The Bowie Cervecería Nacional Chupitos Doppelgänger Ferona Club Social Festival Florería Atlántico Frank’s Gibraltar Guarda la Vieja Hops Isabel Kiboo Krakow Leitmotiv The Library Lounge M Salumería Magdalena’s Party Milión Mundo Bizarro NOLA Gastropub On Tap La Poesía Pony Line Bar La Puerta Roja Puerta Uno Rey de Copas Río Café

84 78 78 78 74 74 74 78 78 78 84 74 78 78 74 78 74 84 84 80 76 74 80 76 80 80 76 80 80 80 76 76 76 84 80 80

easy-on-the-eye twenty- and thirtysomethings who check each other (and themselves) out while sipping cocktails and mini-bowls of sparkling wine. As the night turns into morning, the dancefloor heaves with beautiful people who are deadly serious about having a good time.

Honduras 5730, entre Bonpland y Carranza, Palermo (www.unicornhuset. com). Bus 39, 57, 93, 108, 111, 140, 151, 166. Open 10pm-5am Fri, Sat. Map H2.

You Know My Name This pumped-up lounge is the rather grimy, yet fun-filled haunt of indie-hipsters and rockers. Sip a fruity cocktail on couches under a wall of TV monitors while the VJ (that’s right, no DJs here) projects quirky music videos – think early-1990s Eurotrash electronica, Madonna’s True Blue era and contemporary pop. The two rooms usually focus on different decades, one might play 1970s classics, the other 1990s dance, but either is bound to have you singing along at the top of your voice. Make a reservation beforehand so you can tuck in to a decent dinner for AR$135, then stay on for the evening free of charge. The clubbing-only set will have to pay AR$75 after 1.30am.

Marcelo T de Alvear 1540, entre Montevideo y Paraná, Tribunales (4811 4730/www.youknowmyname. com.ar). Subte D, Callao/bus 5, 10, 12, 111, 132, 140. Open 7pm-2am Thu; 10pm-6am Fri, Sat. Map D5.

Lo de Roberto Rubik Será de Dios The Shamrock The Shanghai Dragon Sheldon Shout Brasas & Drinks Soria Sr Duncan The Steve Sugar Trova Verne Club Victoria Brown

Clubs

!Shamrock Basement An Irish pub/electro club in posh Recoleta? Unlikely, perhaps, but a winning combo. This spot is the product of some serious nightlife know-how, and brings in some of the city’s top turntable talent in an ever-changing, hand-picked roster focusing on electronica and deep house.

It’s one of the few clubs that gets busy early, especially on Thursdays, thanks in part to the cheery happy hour drink specials in the moody upstairs pub (see p76). Shamrock Basement is one of the best places to be during the key hours of 3am to 6am, when the club is usually rocking with a mix of locals, tourists wandering down from upstairs and some of the hardiest clubbers from the BA night scene. The admission fee (AR$45-$65 for men, AR$30-$50 for women) includes a drink.

The Shamrock, Rodríguez Peña 1220, entre Juncal y Arenales, Recoleta (4812 3584). Bus 10, 12, 17. Open Bar from 6pm Mon-Fri; from 10pm Sat. Club from midnight Thu-Sat. Map E5.

84 76 76 76 80 82 74 82 84 82 82 82 82 82

Clubs Alsina Bahrein La Capilla Club Aráoz Club Museum Club Severino Cocoliche Crobar Jet Kika Levitar Liv M.O.D Variete Club Niceto Club Pacha Podestá The Roxy Shamrock Basement Unicorn Huset You Know My Name

86 86 86 88 88 88 88 88 88 88 88 88 90 90 90 90 90 91 91 91

Time Out Insiders´ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015/16 91

Shopping Shopping listings Shopping index

Photograph: Vincent

94 110

GUARANÍ PORÃ

Shopping

Jessica Kessel’s shoes are now gracing the streets of San Telmo

Setting up shop Some of BA’s best brands are moving from private showrooms to fully-fledged shops. Sophie Lloyd talks to the designers taking on the challenge

W

hile closed-door showrooms allow emerging designers to keep their overheads low by selling from their homes or private studios, many dream of opening a shop, where appointments aren’t necessary, passers-by will see their wares and, crucially, the storeroom isn’t their bedroom. Time Out rounds up the best of these new ventures.

VINCENT Martin Lubrano’s handmade leather flats brought the smoking slipper trend to Buenos Aires in 2012. And while making slippers began as Lubrano’s personal project, it quickly became a full-time job as his unique designs – characterised by playful embroidery and prints – caught the attention of the local fashion crowd.

Like most young designers, Lubrano started small, operating from a discreet showroom space in Palermo Viejo, away from the busy hub of Palermo Soho. Due to increasing demand and an expanding stock that now includes a line of sublime leather bags, Lubrano opened a boutique on the edge of Palermo Soho in early 2015 (see p107).

‘It enables us to meet our clients’ needs more comfortably,’ says

Lubrano. ‘The biggest challenge was to ensure the same level of quality and craftsmanship with bigger levels of production.’ Lubrano has also recently opened a stand in shopping centre Alcorta Shopping (see p100), so the brand’s plush slippers are now available to the masses.

JESSICA KESSEL Having firmly established herself on the BA fashion scene with a much sought-after line of handmade women’s shoes, Jessica Kessel moved from a Colegiales showroom in her apartment to a boutique on San Telmo’s busy Defensa strip in early 2015 (see p96).

‘From the beginning, I always wanted to have my own shop and the opportunity arose much sooner than I’d imagined,’ says Kessel, who worked in her parents’ antiques shop in San Telmo during her early twenties.

‘As well as having more space in the shop, it’s gratifying to have contact with new clients from the street and see their reactions when they stop and look in the window, ‘My shoes are exclusive and they will continue to be so, whether they’re available behind closed doors or not,’ she adds.

94 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015/16

For Kessel, it wasn’t so much the transition from showroom to shop that was challenging, but getting hold of the leather needed to produce her designs. Leather sourcing remains an ongoing problem in Argentina, as most of what the country produces is intended for export and prices are set in US dollars, meaning that the equivalent amount in pesos fluctuates constantly.

LENA MARTORELLO For Martinica Lena and Joan Martorello, the duo behind avantgarde clothing line Lena Martorello, the opportunity to open a shared boutique with fellow designer Belén Amigo has allowed them to grow their conceptual brand into something more concrete and professional. The brand launched at the beginning of 2014, and had a showroom in Palermo Chico for less than a year before making the move to a boutique in swanky Recoleta (Talcahuano 1287, 4519 8083, www.lenamartorello.com).

‘The design and location of the shop create the level of exclusivity that comes with a showroom,’ says Martorello. ‘However, having a shop on the street allows us to reach a wider audience that may come across the shop by chance.’

While the design duo admits that issues with inflation and rising production costs make it difficult to plan too far ahead, they are hoping to expand their brand within Argentina and overseas in the not too distant future.

After a life-changing trip to Paraguay in 2006, Caro Urresti was inspired to bring the arts and crafts of the Guaraní region to Buenos Aires. In 2012, she opened a hidden showroom at the back of local womenswear designer Leandro Dominguez’s boutique in Palermo Soho, selling a curated selection of original furnishings, artwork and other items related to Guaraní culture.

‘A concept like Guaraní Porã requires a lot of time,’ says Urresti.

‘I had to take small, decisive steps.

It’s not just a matter of introducing new products to the Argentinian market, but also trying to communicate the cultural heritage of an unknown region.’

Finding the right space to open the shop was also problematic. ‘I had to trust that I was going to find a suitable space in terms of location, cost and size. I spent a lot of time walking around and asking other friends with shops for advice,’ says Urresti. Eventually, her patience paid off. In 2014, she found a charming space in Palermo Hollywood (see p108), where she regularly hosts events and exhibitions.

DINAMARCA Urban menswear label Dinamarca has been purveying the lumberjack look since 2007. Founders Lisandro and Diego received clients in their shared flat and showroom in Palermo Soho for the first few years, until in 2012, they gave up their day jobs (Lisandro was a professional basketball player and Diego a designer for a friend’s brand) and moved to a bigger space in Palermo Hollywood. Three years later, they opened their first boutique (see p105) in the same neighbourhood.

‘Our showroom and home was becoming increasingly full of boxes, buttons and rolls of fabric, not to mention Nilovsky (the dog) – who takes up a lot of space – so we decided it was time,’ says Lisandro.

The spirit of this humble beginning lives on in the boutique, which was designed to resemble a bedroom.

While other young designers speak of the economic struggles of having a business in Buenos Aires, Lisandro has only positive things to say, ‘The current economy has had a positive effect on our business in that the menswear industry in Argentina continues to grow and the number of independent designers has risen, which makes us hopeful.’

Time Out’s also hoping the spirit of independent design continues to flourish on BA’s streets, paving the way for more talented designers to open up shop.

To explore BA’s best showrooms and shops, sign up for Sophie Lloyd’s shopping tours with Shop Hop BA (www.shop-buenosaires.com).

The essentials

The Centre SHOPPING CENTRES

Galerías Pacífico This shopping centre is housed in a beautiful building decorated with frescoes by five Argentinian muralists.

You’ll find famous names such as Lacoste here, along with jewellers Swarovski and local retail stars Ona Saez and Kosiuko.

Florida 737, entre Viamonte y Avenida Córdoba (5000 5100/www.galerias pacifico.com.ar). Subte B, Florida/bus 6, 93, 130, 152. Open Shops 10am-9pm daily. Restaurants 10am-10pm daily.

Credit varies. Map C5.

DESIGN AND HOME ACCESSORIES

!Autoría BsAs Autoría is an eclectic mix of thoroughly Argentinian art and design. The store has a bit of everything; an art gallery, maté gourds, calendars, notebooks, as well as fashion and accessories. Browse through carefully selected, high quality garments from fashion designers like Min Agostini, bags and accessories from the likes of Marcelo Senra and Perfectos Dragones, and jewellery from María Medici and Marina Massone.

Suipacha 1025, entre Avenida Santa Fe y Marcelo T de Alvear (5252 2474/ www.autoriabsas.com.ar). Subte C, San Martín/bus 5, 9, 10, 17, 23. Open 9.30am-8pm Mon-Fri; 10am-6pm Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D5.

JEWELLERY

Manu Lizarralde Manu Lizarralde’s showroom positively glows with an array of precious stones, from purple amethysts, green emeralds and champagne coloured topaz to golden rutile and quartz crystal. Each stone is handcrafted from scratch, so if you are looking for a glamorous gift from the rose quartz heart of the world, this place will dazzle you with options.

San Martín 1107, y Rojas (4314 4379/ www.manulizarralde.com). Bus 34, 39.

Open 11am-7pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D6.

Plata Nativa Although this shop, one of many in an unassuming shopping arcade, might at first appear unremarkable, it’s a treasure trove of indigenous and Latin American art, antique silver and ethnic accessories. The store’s clients include the Rolling Stones, Marc Jacobs and Pedro Almodóvar, who

have all been wowed by Marta Campana’s mind-boggling collection.

Unit 41, Galería del Sol, Florida 860, entre Avenida Córdoba y Paraguay (4312 1398/www.platanativa.com).

Subte C, San Martín/bus 6, 26, 75, 93.

Open 10.30am-7pm Mon-Fri; 10.30am-2pm Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map C5.

LEATHER GOODS

Casa Lopez Well-established Casa Lopez, dedicated to all things leather, is located close to Plaza San Martín. Trenchcoats, jackets, handbags and luggage come in mostly classic styles, and the quality is top-notch. Native leathers such as those from the carpincho (a large rodent) and yacaré (a South American caiman) are used in a number of products.

Marcelo T de Alvear 640/658, entre Florida y Maipú (4311 3044/www.casa lopez.com.ar). Subte C, San Martín/bus 10, 17, 59. Open 9am-8pm Mon-Fri; 10am-7pm Sat; 10am-6pm Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D6.

Prüne Well-established Argentinian brand Prüne is a popular destination for bag fans, and its broad selection of styles ranges from handy holdalls to sparkly evening clutches. Studs, chains, animal prints and textured leathers feature frequently in the trendy collections, which also include wallets, belts, footwear, jackets and coats. Try on a sexy biker jacket and some ankle boots, then top them off with a studded messenger bag.

Florida 963, y Paraguay (4893 2641/ www.prune.com.ar). Subte C, San Martín/bus 5, 6, 7, 20, 22, 23, 26, 28, 33, 70, 91, 106. Open 9.30am-8pm Mon-Sat; 11am-6pm Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D5.

Other locations Patio Bullrich shopping centre, Recoleta (4814 7437); and branches throughout the city.

FOOD AND DRINK

NEW Almacén 1249 This almacén might not be big, but rest assured it’s got your gourmet grocery needs covered. Choose from a range of speciality cheeses, hams and salamis to make a picada fit for a king, or stock up on Danish biscuits, Scottish preserves or locally-made craft beers. As anyone who’s ever been shopping on an empty stomach will attest, looking at so much food makes you hungry – but Almacén 1249 has thought of that too. A range of fresh sandwiches, salads and quiches is available to take away, or to devour at the counter while you decide which goodies to take home with you.

Esmeralda 1249, entre Juncal y Arenales (4312 7136). Subte C, San Martín/bus 10, 17, 28, 92, 129, 152.

Open 9am-8pm Mon-Fri; 9am-1pm Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D5.

San Telmo

ANTIQUES, ART AND COLLECTIBLES

Gabriel Del Campo Anticuario Well known for collectibles and furniture, this antiques shop facing Plaza Dorrego stocks unusual and eclectic pieces bound to bring character to even the dullest sitting room. Peruvian textiles sit side by side with oriental ebony and retro Louis Vuitton trunks. Take the time to browse through the store’s thrilling array of unorthodox objets.

Bethlem 427, entre Defensa y Bolívar (4307 6589). Bus 24, 29, 33, 53, 61, 111, 126, 129, 130, 152, 159, 195.

Open 10.30am-6.30pm daily. No credit cards. Map B4.

HB Antigüedades Stepping into this antiques emporium is like walking into a slightly over-furnished palace. It’s worth a look for the imposing centrepiece: a pink

FASHION – MENSWEAR

La Martina This leather and casual clothes outfitter has one inspiration: polo. Pick up a long-sleeved shirt with a subtle logo or, for a more casual look, go for a short-sleeved version with print details.

There’s womenswear with a preppy feel as well as large leather bags and, naturally, polo gear. If you can’t afford to splurge, get a piece of La Martina action with a leather wallet.

Paraguay 661, entre Florida y Maipú (4576 7998/www.lamartina.com).

Subte C, San Martín/bus 10, 17. Open 10am-8pm Mon-Fri; 10am-2pm Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D5.

Other locations Arribeños 2632, Belgrano (4576 0011); and branches throughout the city.

Apuesto (see p105)

Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015/16 95

Shopping

As our feature (see left) suggests, more and more designers are graduating from private showrooms to shops, although that’s not to say there isn’t plenty to discover behind closed doors.

House of Matching Colours (see p104) and Vittorita (see right) are just two of the city’s hidden showrooms.

Men now have no excuse to avoid the shops, as they have more threads to choose from than ever (see p105), and new shoe shops Vincent (see p107) and Posco (see p102) cater to all sexes.

If you’re after something sweet, see our selection of rosé wines (see p107), or visit Bosque (see p106) for its cute ceramics. And if hunger strikes while you’re in Retiro, stop in at new food store Almacén 1249 (see right).

FASHION – VINTAGE

Vittorita If vintage makes you think of staid, retro threads, try Vittorita’s Congreso showroom for a modern, feminine take on it. Trendy pieces like printed silk shorts and blouses sit alongside woven bags, sandals and old-school lingerie.

Owners and sisters Pame and Daniela hand-pick every piece for top-notch quality and provide expert styling services to all clientele. Write to them on Facebook to book an appointment, and dedicate your day to sifting through gorgeous vintage jumpers and dresses. Prices range from the affordable to the extravagant.

Address provided at time of booking, Constitución (mobile 15 6721 4062/ www.vittorita.com.ar). Subte E, San José/bus 10, 39, 45, 60, 100. Open 10am-7pm Mon-Fri, by appt. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map B3.

for a helping hand. There are also African decorative art and South American textiles for sale, but without a doubt it’s Alberto’s necklaces, rings and earrings that steal the show. You can also make your own piece with Alberto’s assistance, or ask about jewellery-making classes.

Carlos Calvo 428, y Defensa (mobile 15 5949 9193). Bus 10, 17, 24, 28, 29, 152, 195. Open 11am-7pm Mon-Fri; 11am-5pm Sat, Sun. No credit cards.

Map B4.

Shopping

SHOES

Elementos Argentinos (see p108)

Italian chandelier that hangs regally from the lofty ceiling.

Defensa 1016, entre Humberto 1º y Carlos Calvo (4361 3325/www. hbantiques.com). Bus 4, 8, 20, 24, 29.

Open 10am-7pm Mon-Fri; noon-6pm Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map B4.

BOOKSHOPS

Walrus Books With over 5,000 titles in this shop’s eclectic range of used but good quality English books, you’re guaranteed to find something of interest, whether it’s classic or modern literature or non-fiction. The atmospheric bookshop is a great place to wile away an hour.

The owners also run a number of short literature courses in the shop and at the Walrus school in Palermo.

Estados Unidos 617, entre Perú y Chacabuco (4300 7135/www.walrusbooks.com.ar). Subte C, Independencia/ bus 8, 22, 24, 29, 33, 60. Open noon-8pm Tue-Sun. Credit V. Map B4.

DESIGN AND HOME ACCESSORIES

Cualquier Verdura Like some fantastic white elephant stall, this shop unites the curious, the quirky and the kitsch. The capricious collection is arranged around the interior of a casa chorizo – a narrow house with an interior patio – and consists of many one-off, original pieces. One room is decked out like a kitchen, with the household decor items that are for sale completing the look, while other rooms feature retro record players and toys for nostalgia fans. The different coloured price tags are not randomly assigned, but indicate whether the product is new, locally made, or a vintage find. There’s even a category for pieces the owners are reluctant to see leave the store.

Humberto 1º 517, entre Bolívar y Perú (4300 2474/www.cualquierverdura. com.ar). Bus 4, 8, 10, 22, 24, 28, 29, 33, 53, 62, 64, 74, 86, 93, 152, 195.

Open noon-8pm Thu-Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map B4.

L’Ago L’Ago’s exquisite, witty window displays are enough to stop you in your tracks. Once inside, you can easily lose yourself in a world of eclectorama, from original vintage furniture and lighting fixtures to creative toys and art and design by the cream of Argentinian artists and product designers. L’Ago is perfect for gift shopping: if you can’t find something in here then you’re simply not looking hard enough.

Defensa 970, y Carlos Calvo (4362 4702/www.lagosantelmo.com). Bus 24, 29, 33, 74, 103, 111, 126, 129, 152.

Open 11am-8pm daily. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map B4.

FASHION – BOUTIQUES

Puntos en el Espacio Visit this ample, well-laid-out space for clothing for guys and girls, plus pretty underwear, bags, accessories and footwear from talented young designers. Time Out loves the colourful metallic jewellery by Paula Pizani and kids’ clothing range Chango. This shop is always buzzing with hip young things examining the rails of comfy basics and slickly designed clubwear.

Carlos Calvo 450, entre Defensa y Bolívar (4307 7906/www.puntos enelespacio.com.ar). Bus 22, 24, 29, 111, 126, 129, 143, 159, 195. Open 11am-8pm daily. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map B4.

FASHION – VINTAGE

Gil Antigüedades This store looks more like a costume museum than a shop at first glance.

The exceptionally genial owners María Inés and Héctor Horacio have had fashion superstars like John Galliano and Carolina Herrera turn up on their doorstep to browse the collection of

96 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015/16

over 6,000 pieces including clothing, jewellery, fans, footwear, parasols, trunks and figurines. No one with even a passing interest in fashion should think of leaving San Telmo without stopping by.

Humberto 1º 412, y Defensa (4361 5019/www.gilantiguedades.com.ar).

Bus 10, 22, 29, 126. Open 11am-1pm, 3-7pm Tue-Sat; 11am-7pm Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map B4.

Other location Estados Unidos 361, San Telmo (4362 7922), by appt only.

Jessica Kessel Head to any fashion event in BA and you’re bound to see more than one fashionista sporting a pair of Jessica Kessel shoes. Kessel has had such success with her chunky, candycoloured ankle boots, sandals, brogues and heels that she graduated from a Colegiales showroom to a fully-fledged shop in 2015. The secret? Her artisanal shoes are dripping in style, but the heels never exceed three inches, meaning you’ll actually want to wear them all day long.

Defensa 1009, y Carlos Calvo (4362 2144/www.jkshoes.com.ar). Bus 20, 22, 24, 29, 33, 36, 61, 64, 152, 159, 195.

Open 1-7pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map B4.

Recoleta and Barrio Norte SHOPPING CENTRES

Galería Bond Street A favourite with wannabe rebels and emo kids, this grungy galería on Avenida Santa Fe is home to JEWELLERY everything from hip trainers and urban Marcelo Toledo wear to bondage gear. You can easily One of the most respected jewellers in wile away an afternoon rifling through BA, Toledo is one of the favourites of the vintage shops. Lucky Seven and the former King of Spain and has also American Tattoo, a favourite of made pieces for Prince Charles and his Maradona, are just two of the many mum. Toledo’s ‘Evita’ collection body art and piercing parlours well featured more than 120 spectacular worth a visit. items including earrings, brooches and Avenida Santa Fe 1670, entre necklaces in silver and gold with Montevideo y Rodríguez Peña (www. precious stones, many of them facebook.com/galeriabondstreet). replicas of pieces found in Subte D, Callao/bus 10, 106, Eva Perón’s wardrobe.

109, 110, 171. Open Humberto 1º 462, entre 11am-8pm Mon-Sat. Bolívar y Defensa (4362 Pick up a bargain Credit varies. Map E4.

0841/www.marcelotoledo. Most shops have an end net). Subte C, San Juan/ of season sale around !Galería Patio bus 4, 8, 22, 28, 33, 53, February. Get further del Liceo 64, 93, 126, 129. Open deals by asking about Behind a tall red door on 10.30am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, cash discounts. frenetic Avenida Santa Sun. Credit AmEx, V. Fe lies the city’s most Map B4. bohemian shopping precinct, with more than 30 art galleries and Signos shops set around a leafy, oasis-like At this pint-sized shop-cumpatio. Watering hole Baby Snakes is at workshop, just a hop, skip and a jump the centre of the patio, delivering al from Plaza Dorrego, jewellery fresco rehydration to thirsty hipsters. designer Alberto Codiani busies Among the gems in the galería are himself making chunky silver pieces independent record store Mercurio; with precious and semi-precious jewellery boutique Callis; ukulele shop stones, most originating from South and school Los Hermanos; art America. Ranging from baroque to bookshop Purr Libros; whimsical Indian in style, these beauties are clothing label Greens; and vintage perfect for women who dare to be treasure trove Biorder. If this place different. It’s hard to choose just one isn’t already on your shopping radar, it piece, so ask Alberto’s partner Laura should be.

TOP TIP!

Shopping Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015/16 97

Shopping

Avenida Santa Fe 2729, entre Laprida y Anchorena (www.galeriapatiodelliceo. com). Subte D, Agüero/bus 12, 29, 39, 41, 64, 68, 106. Open 9.30am-9pm Mon-Sat. Credit varies. Map E4.

Patio Bullrich The most luxurious of all BA’s shopping centres, Patio Bullrich was once the city’s meat auction house. Elegant and upmarket, it is home to many local and international high-end stores including Trosman and Carolina Herrera, as well as an excellent delicatessen, Valenti.

Avenida del Libertador 750, entre Montevideo y Libertad (4814 7400/ www.shoppingbullrich.com.ar). Bus 17, 61, 62, 67, 70, 93, 100, 110, 124, 130, 152. Open Shops 10am-9pm daily. Restaurants 10am-11pm Sun-Thu; 10am-1am Fri, Sat. Credit varies. Map E5.

Recoleta Mall This shopping centre opposite Recoleta Cemetery houses all the top brands under one roof, plus a ten-screen cinema complex. Head up to the top floor for a stunning view of the city’s most famous cemetery.

Vicente López 2050, entre Uriburu y Junín (4808 0605/www.recoletamall. com.ar). Bus 10, 39, 93, 110, 118, 124, 130. Open Shops 10am-10pm daily. Restaurants 10am-midnight Sun-Thu; 10am-2am Fri, Sat. Credit varies. Map E5.

BOOKSHOPS

Ateneo Grand Splendid Located in a lavish former theatre, El Ateneo is, without a doubt, the city’s most beautiful bookshop. Browse book after book in the unique surroundings, or have a drink in the on-stage café.

Avenida Santa Fe 1860, entre Avenida Callao y Riobamba (4813 6052/www. tematika.com). Subte D, Callao/bus 10,

12, 17, 29, 37, 39, 59, 60, 95, 99, 101, 106, 109, 110, 111, 124, 132.

Open 9am-10pm Mon-Thu; 9ammidnight Fri, Sat; noon-10pm Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map E4.

Other locations Florida 340, Microcentro (4325 6801); and branches throughout the city.

DESIGN AND HOME ACCESSORIES

!Fueguia If you think Chanel No. 5’s top note is overly bergamot and best left for a cup of Earl Grey, step into Fueguia, a sexy fragrance- and candle-making laboratory, where you can create your own bouquet. The store offers 100-plus temptations all sourced from ecofriendly materials. Jorge Luis Borges, Argentina’s most prolific writer, has inspired two scents: cedar-hued Pulpería No. 73 (based on a conversation between Borges and his character Ireneo Funes), and wood-and-leather scented Biblioteca de Babel No. 40 (reminiscent of a comfortable old study). You can also get Fueguia scents at Casa Cavia (see p48).

Avenida Alvear 1680, y Rodríguez Peña (4311 5360/www.fueguia.com).

Bus 17, 60, 61, 62. Open 11am-8pm daily. Credit MC, V. Map E5.

FASHION – CHAINS

!Las Pepas An eclectic array of garments graces the rails at popular Las Pepas, though one mainstay of the brand’s collections is the range of leather outerwear and accessories. The large selection of leather jackets includes classic blousons and belted trenches, as well as pretty, feminine styles in sumptuously soft suede. Bags range from classic holdalls to dainty clutches, and footwear is also available.

Avenida Santa Fe 1631, y Montevideo (4811 7887/www.laspepas.com.ar).

Subte D, Callao/bus 10, 12, 29, 39, 60.

Open 10am-9pm Mon-Fri; 10am-8pm Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D5.

Other locations Alto Palermo shopping centre, Palermo (5777 8001); and branches throughout the city.

FASHION – DESIGNER

Tramando Martín Churba, the innovative designer behind this label, whips up ingenious womenswear in a fusion of artistry and eccentricity. Wacky weaving, abstract prints and fabrics with rubbery finishes are among the brand’s hallmarks, as are modern fabrics featuring details and print effects reminiscent of traditional Argentinian woven textiles.

Rodríguez Peña 1973, entre Posadas y Avenida Alvear (4811 0465/www. tramando.com). Bus 12, 17, 60. Open 10.30am-8.30pm Mon-Fri; 11am-7pm Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map E5.

Other locations Alcorta Shopping, Palermo (4803 5434); Honduras 4881, Palermo (4833 5955).

FASHION – CHILDREN’S AND MATERNITY

Venga Madre Mums-to-be can choose from casual daytime attire and elegant, streamlined evening wear at this store located just off busy Avenida Santa Fe. Opt for something slinky yet stretchy, or wrap up in the cosy cardigans that are just as fabulous post-pregnancy. In a city obsessed with the smaller frame, this place is a real find.

Paraná 1052, entre Marcelo T de Alvear y Avenida Santa Fe (4813 0662/www.vengamadre.com.ar). Bus 5, 10, 12, 17, 23, 26, 29, 111, 132, 152.

Open 11am-8pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D5.

Other locations La Pampa 2152, Belgrano (4784 8885); Viamonte 653, Microcentro (4394 0972).

FASHION – VINTAGE AND USED

Bimba Vintage Helmed by porteña actress Jazmín Rodríguez, this Recoleta showroom is a sanctuary for vintage-lovers. Anyone who knows the work involved in hunting down a quality second-hand garment will appreciate the care Rodríguez has put into curating her store, which is stocked with a selection of mint-condition items. Printed blouses, fringed dresses, snakeskin clutches and an assortment of fabulous costume jewellery are just a few of the finds you can stumble upon here, along with enough designer names to satisfy label hounds.

Local 16, Libertad 956, y Paraguay (mobile 15 5473 5419). Subte D, Tribunales/bus 10, 29, 60. Open by appt only. No credit cards. Map D5.

Juan Pérez A used clothing megastore, Juan Pérez stocks a multitude of garments and accessories for women and men, from vintage Valentino to second-hand local labels like Kosiuko and María Cher.

The shop has a particularly large selection of items from the 1970s to the 1990s, and prices range from pocket change to serious investment.

Marcelo T de Alvear 1441, entre Paraná y Uruguay (4815 8442/www. vestitenjuanperez.blogspot.com). Bus 10, 17, 29. Open 11am-7pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D5.

JEWELLERY

Oleana Designer Yanina Faour creates bold rings in a variety of styles ranging from cocktail-party bling and corporate-climber modernism, to resplendent art deco. The Mandala line, for instance, features stunning mosaicked pendants and earrings that resemble stained glass, while the playful Organic collection offers octopus rings and dragonfly necklaces.

Yanina can also create custom designs, and has a men’s line too.

Ground floor, Apartment A, Rodríguez Peña 2067, y Avenida del Libertador (4812 5169/www.oleanajewelry.com).

Bus 60, 67, 110, 124, 129, 130, 152.

Open 11am-7pm Mon-Fri; 10am-2pm Sat by appt. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map E5.

LEATHER GOODS

Cubreme (see p102)

98 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015/16

Redondo Frydman The old fashioned Galería Promenade Alvear isn’t exactly where you’d expect to find a modern leather shop, but take a stroll through the maze of stores to find design duo María Redondo and Silviana Frydman’s locale. Leather shops in posh Recoleta tend towards classic cuts, but the aesthetic here is minimal and modern. Sleek leather tote bags and clutches come in just about every colour and texture, but handbags are just the start – the tiny shop stocks leather in all its variations. On the racks are gloves, shoes, waistcoats, jackets and even a suede dress or two.

Local 27, Galeria Promenade, Avenida Alvear 1883, entre Avenida Callao y Ayacucho (4804 4030/www.redondo frydman.com.ar). Bus 17, 60, 61, 62,

Local 74-76, Galería 5ta Avenida, Avenida Santa Fe 1270 (4815 7160/ www.abraxasdiscos.com.ar). Bus 10, 29, 39, 60. Open 11am-8.30pm Mon-Fri; noon-8.30pm Sat. No credit cards. Map D5.

TRADITIONAL CRAFTS

Shopping

Arandú You’ll find everything you need here to kit yourself out as a hard-bitten gaucho: the saddle, the riding boots, the hats and the maté gourd. In terms of souvenir hunting, this is decidedly upmarket merchandise – it’s spot-on for gifts for your loved ones – with excellent quality leather goods and engraved steak knives.

Ayacucho 1924, entre Avenida Alvear y Quintana (4800 1575/www.arandu. com.ar). Bus 10, 17, 59, 110, 114, 124. Open 9am-8.30pm Mon-Sat; 10am-8pm Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map E5.

Palermo

SHOPPING CENTRES

Dinamarca (see p105)

67, 75, 92, 93, 101, 102, 110, 114, 130. Open 11am-7.30pm Mon-Fri; 11am-1pm Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map E5.

Rossi & Caruso Make like the Spanish royal family and visit this store for classic handbags, briefcases and a host of other leather goods, from wallets and belts to saddles and riding crops. There are plenty of leather jacket styles including trenchcoats for men and traditional, quilted suede waistcoats for women.

Lizard-skin shoes for women and classic Chelsea boots for men are just some of the footwear options available, and the range of unique accessories includes crocodile-leather belts and fur-lined leather gloves.

Posadas 1387/79, entre Rodríguez Peña y Montevideo (4811 1965/www. rossicaruso.com). Bus 17, 60, 61, 67.

Open 9.30am-8pm Mon-Fri; 10am-7pm Sat; 11am-6pm Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map E5.

Other locations Recoleta Mall, Recoleta (4806 1935); Galerías Pacífico shopping centre, Microcentro (4312 7749).

Santesteban Beautifully crafted handbags and women’s footwear are offered at Verónica Santesteban’s store in the exclusive Galería Promenade shopping arcade. The impressive, wide range of exotic materials includes stingray and crocodile skin, supple leather and the softest of furs, and horn and precious stones are used in the detailing. As you’d expect with this quality of product, every piece is handmade by skilled artisans.

Local 40, Galería Promenade, Avenida Alvear 1883, entre Avenida Callao y

Ayacucho (4800 1174/www.santeste ban.net). Bus 17, 60, 61, 62, 67, 75, 92, 93, 101, 102, 110, 124, 130.

Open 10am-8pm Mon-Fri; 10am-2pm Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map E5.

SHOES

Alcorta Shopping The upmarket Alcorta Shopping is often considered BA’s most pleasant mall. It contains a gigantic Carrefour hypermarket as well as quality clothing shops including Penguin, local menswear brand Bensimon (see p105) and a branch of Argentinian designer Martín Churba’s Tramando (see p98).

Salguero 3172, y Avenida Figueroa Alcorta (5777 6500/www.alcortas hopping.com.ar). Bus 37, 67, 102, 130.

Open Shops 10am-10pm daily.

Restaurants 10am-10pm Sun-Wed; 10am-11pm Thu-Sat. Credit varies.

Map G5.

Comme Il Faut Hidden away in a peaceful lane, famous Comme Il Faut offers beautifully made tango shoes. The technical part of the design makes the footwear ideal for Alto Palermo even the most demanding dancer, and The ever-popular Alto Palermo the aesthetic element ensures that these contains many of Argentina’s top stunning shoes are coveted by both chains like Complot and Desiderata. tangueras and tourists. The There are a few make-up stylish boutique is an counters on the ground experience in itself, as floor, and those prone there are very few shoes to claustrophobia can Souvenir shopping on display to browse; escape the crowds of Pick up original souvenirs at instead customers consumers in one of Nobrand (see right), describe the style and the cafés upstairs.

Kabinett (Gurruchaga colour they prefer and 1774) and by browsing the Avenida Santa Fe wait on plush sofas as 3253, entre Coronel stalls at BA’s markets box after box of Díaz y Bulnes (5777 (see p110). delicate heels are brought 8000/www.altopalermo. out to try on. com.ar). Subte D, Bulnes/bus Apartment M, Rue des Artisans, 12, 15, 29, 36, 39, 57, 64, 68, 92, Arenales 1239, entre Libertad y 110, 111, 128, 152, 160, 188, 194.

Talcahuano (4815 5690/www.

Open 10am-10pm daily. Credit varies. commeilfaut.com.ar). Bus 5, 9, 10, 17, Map F4.

39, 45, 59, 60, 67, 70, 75, 100, 108.

BOOKSHOPS Open 11am-7pm Mon-Fri; 11am-3pm Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D5.

Alamut Libros This shop brings to BA just what MUSIC every city needs: a bookshop combined Abraxas with a wine store. The books share a This miniscule music store is space with wine boutique Autre Monde legendary. For over three decades, (www.autremonde.com.ar), where the owner Fernando Pau has been helping expert owner hand selects every bottle. rock ’n’ roll fans get their jam on with Alamut’s libros are chosen with equal a carefully curated selection of CDs care, and owners Daniela and Luciano and LPs that includes both output from take pride in offering titles beyond just relatively unknown groups and coveted what’s on the best-seller list. For a collectors’ items. Alongside the music, night of wine and culture, reserve a you can also find a selection of books, spot at one of Alamut’s film screenings, the price of which includes DVDs and musical memorabilia.

100 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015/16

TOP TIP!

two glasses of quality wine.

Jorge Luis Borges 1985, y Soler (4833 9184). Bus 34, 39, 55, 57, 110, 111.

Open 3-10pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3.

Dain Usina Cultural An identity crisis (is it a bookshop? A café? A live music venue? A bar?) doesn’t detract from the fact that this corner locale is one of Palermo’s most inviting spaces. It specialises in hardback design and travel tomes, with a small selection of English-language titles, and its book launches and free live music events draw in a sedate crowd most evenings. When you’ve had your fill of browsing, retreat to the roof terrace to sip refreshing mojitos.

Nicaragua 4899, y Thames (4778 3554/www.dainusinacultural.com).

Subte D, Plaza Italia/bus 34, 55. Open noon-8pm Mon-Fri; 1-8pm Sat, Sun. No credit cards. Map G3.

Libros del Pasaje The walls of this shop are crammed with books on subjects ranging from English literature to Argentinian art and design. The fabulous coffee-table books and quirky little souvenir editions make great gifts, and there’s a very pleasant café at the back of the store for a pick-me-up cortado.

Thames 1762, y Pasaje Russel (4833 6637/www.librosdelpasaje.com.ar).

Subte D, Plaza Italia/bus 34, 39, 55.

Open 10am-10pm Mon-Sat; 3-10pm Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3.

DESIGN AND HOME ACCESSORIES

Nobrand Show off about your trip to Argentina with one of Nobrand’s iconic souvenirs, which sport simple motifs of Argentinian symbols. Grab an empanada badge, a Che Guevara notebook or a stylish ceramic maté.

This cool, urban store also stocks gorgeous leather jewellery from Iskin Joyería Contemporánea and Kärton Kärton’s fun cardboard animals, designed for children to assemble.

El Salvador 4658, y Armenia (4834 6294/www.nobrand.com.ar). Bus 15, 34, 36, 39, 55, 151. Open noon-7pm Mon-Sat; 3-7pm Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3.

Pehache Set in a renovated antique house in the heart of Palermo, Pehache (as in PH, which stands for propiedad horizontal) is one of those concept stores that even shopping phobes could spend hours in.

Not only are you tempted to buy every item (though the price tags do require self-control), but it’s all so prettily laid out that you’re almost afraid to pick things up. Almost. Items like handpainted penguin-shaped jugs and stand-alone baths are all by local designers and hand-picked by the two sisters who own the shop. Everything is for sale, including the chairs in the changing room and the paintings on the walls. The patio doubles as a café selling fruit juices, sandwiches and salads.

Gurruchaga 1418, entre Cabrera y Gorriti (4832 4022/www.pehache.com).

Shopping

EMILY JENSEN

Bus 15, 34, 39, 47, 55, 57, 106, 110, 140, 151, 168. Open 11am-8pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2.

Sabater Hermanos Run by the third generation of Sabater family soap makers, this funky shop and workshop is a soap version of a pick ’n’ mix counter. With coloured soap flakes, cookie-cutter shapes and ‘hundreds and thousands’ of scented soaps, there are plenty of choices.

Rebels may gravitate to the Black Sabbath or marijuana leaf squares, while those who get their kicks in less gritty ways may chuckle at the soapcakes bearing Spanish phrases like ‘Doesn’t wash your conscience’.

Gurruchaga 1821, entre Costa Rica y Nicaragua (4833 3004/www.shnos.com. ar). Bus 15, 34, 36, 55, 111. Open 10am-8pm Mon-Sat; 3-7pm Sun. No credit cards. Map G3.

Salmón Tienda Salmón Tienda is like a Pinterestlover’s dream come true. The owners take exceptional care in curating their shop, filling it with objects and products from Argentinian artisans.

This eclectic store has everything from canvas bags to organise your kitchen to teeny-tiny cactus plants, and you may find yourself convinced that your home badly needs every one of the items on display. If you’re on the hunt for a one-of-a-kind piece, you’ve come to the right spot – just don’t blame Time Out if you leave with a few more items than anticipated.

Cabello 3629, y Scalabrini Ortiz (4809 3344/www.salmontienda.com). Bus 57, 59, 60, 67, 93, 95, 102, 108, 110, 118, 130. Open 10am-8pm Mon-Fri; 11am-7pm Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G4.

Violraviol The charming household items at this shop offer a nostalgic nod towards the traditional porteña lifestyle. Owner Cecilia Sonzani uses ethically-sourced cotton textile fabrics with unique prints to give old-school items a modern makeover. The rolling shopping trolley, once only used by elderly porteñas, is now a trendy bestseller thanks to Sonzani’s funky vintage prints.

Tablecloths, napkins and placemats are also available in a variety of retro patterns. Think Cath Kidston with an Argentinian twist.

El Salvador 5894, y Ravignani (4778 3136/www.violraviol.com). Bus 39, 57, 93, 108, 111, 151, 168. Open noon-7.30pm Tue-Fri; 11.30am-7.30pm Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H2.

FASHION – CHAINS

De la Ostia For the clubber by night, flower child by day, De la Ostia is the attire of choice for the experimental twentysomething. Glam jackets and sequinned miniskirts are made for getting elegantly wasted in, while lacy, draped tops and T-shirts with beaded detailing give a ’70s flashback to a stroll in the park. Argentinian designer Lola Canavosio likes her tones monochrome or muted and she also

New in Town Posco

Posco stands for ‘products of simple composition’, and that is exactly what this store offers. The small shop’s colourful, comfortable shoes are made of three pieces: two cuts of fabric and a rubber sole, and are perfect for men and women who want stylish, urban footwear that won’t break the bank. The simplicity of Gaston Greco’s designs is displayed on the shop walls, where the shoes’ components – the leather, the thread and the laces – hang artfully. Greco has plans to teach clients to make their own shoes in the near future, but if you’d rather leave the shoemaking to the experts, bag yourself a pair of shiny leather turquoise shoes or some electric blue canvas trainers. Your feet will thank you for it. Pasaje Santa Rosa 4932, y Gurruchaga (www.posco.com.ar). Bus 15, 39, 110, 140. Open 10.30am-6pm Mon-Fri; 10.30am-8pm Sat; 2.30-8pm Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3.

does a range of jeans and footwear to complete the look.

El Salvador 4627, entre Armenia y Malabia (4833 3468/www.delaostia. net). Bus 15, 34, 39, 110, 140, 151.

Open 11am-8pm Mon-Thu; 11am8.30pm Fri, Sat; noon-8pm Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2.

Other locations Alcorta Shopping; Palermo (5777 6562); Maure 1538, Belgrano (4777 8906); and branches throughout the city.

Paula Cahen D’Anvers An unstructured look and a potpourri of pretty, comfortable separates are the secret to this brand’s success. Think flirty model type raiding her boyfriend’s wardrobe for an oversized white shirt to team with her lacetrimmed cotton camisole and culottes, to get an idea of the brand’s aesthetic.

There are preppy items with a touch of masculine tailoring but the collections are always decidedly feminine, with floral motifs and broderie anglaise frequently recurring. These are garments that will slot into most wardrobes, though prices may make you pause before purchasing.

Alto Palermo shopping centre, Avenida Santa Fe 3253, y Coronel Díaz (5777 8227/www.paulacahendanvers.com.ar).

Subte D, Bulnes/bus 12, 39, 92, 128.

102 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015/16

Open 10am-10pm daily. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map F4.

Other locations Honduras 4888, Palermo (4833 6655); and branches throughout the city.

FASHION – DESIGNER

Agostina Bianchi Following the triumph of her luxury knitwear abroad – the designer was invited by Harrods in London to showcase her chic creations in the store – Agostina Bianchi decided to set up shop at home in Buenos Aires.

Displayed in her elegant boutique is a range of flattering, feminine confections for the mature woman, made with sumptuously soft yarns including merino wool and mohair, and featuring interesting touches such as metallic-coloured threads. Every item in Bianchi’s collections is handmade and available only in limited numbers.

Thames 1733, entre El Salvador y Pasaje Russel (4833 9357/www. agostinabianchi.com.ar). Bus 34, 39, 55, 140. Open noon-8.30pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3. !Blackmamba Perhaps you already knew Argentina is the place to buy leather goods, but you probably didn’t count on anything quite as cool as this. Designer Bianca

Siconolfi manages the rare feat of turning goth style into high fashion with quality pieces like leather jackets, studded handbags and bold shoes, as well as T-shirts and chunky knits.

Daring detailing like a ribcage stitched on to the back of a leather jacket comes off as cheeky rather than creepy, while a tarnished-silver tarantula necklace is the edgy piece you didn’t know your wardrobe needed. With both menswear and womenswear, this shop is a must for the cutting-edge fashionista.

Soler 4502, y Malabia (4832 5083/ www.beblackmamba.com). Bus 15, 39, 141, 160. Open 11am-8pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3.

Cecilia Gadea Cecilia Gadea’s pieces are consistently whimsical and feminine, without ever crossing the line into juvenile or frilly.

Gadea’s background in both graphic design and fashion translates into laser-cut lace and custom textiles that turn her wardrobe essentials into anything but basic. Wearable dresses come with dreamy flounced layers, and delicate lacy collars help old shirts look like new. Located just steps from Plaza Serrano, this is a fashion retreat from the bustle of beer-stained bars.

Serrano 1536, y Honduras (4831 5930/www.ceciliagadea.com). Bus 15, 39, 55, 93, 141. Open 2-7.30pm Tue-Fri; 1-5pm Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2.

Cora Groppo Cora Groppo is known for her flowing forms and love of layering, and the use of textural details such as ruching and piping in her garments. Unlike some of the more eye-searing colours found in BA boutiques, here the palate is made up of muted, chic neutrals. There’s plenty of visual interest to be found in Groppo’s use of leather, plastic chains and other textural details, giving structure to her soft, unusual shapes.

Fine knits are a key element of the collections and make excellent wardrobe basics.

El Salvador 4657, y Armenia (4833 7474/www.coragroppo.com). Bus 15, 34, 36, 39, 55, 57, 106, 110, 140, 141, 151. Open 10.30am-8pm Mon-Sat; 2-7pm Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3.

Other location Uruguay 1296, Recoleta (4815 8516).

Cubreme Fashion designer Alejandra Gottelli does her bit for the planet – and the local economy – by supporting Argentinian farmers, sourcing organic wool from Patagonian sheep and llamas from San Luis, as well as chemical-free cotton from Chaco. The yarns are woven into the softest of fabrics and hand-tailored into classic yet contemporary cardigans, silk-blend scarves and slip dresses in earthy, neutral tones. The boutique also carries a men’s and homeware line.

Godoy Cruz 1720, entre Honduras y Gorriti (4832 5176/www.cubreme.com).

Bus 34. Open 12.30-7.30pm Tue-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2.

Shopping Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015/16 103

Shopping

Dubié This is one independent fashion house you should definitely not be dubious of.

The discrete storefront does not scream out for attention on passing, but stop once and you’ll visit time and time again. The collection has a select range of heels, boots and women’s clothing, all handmade from luxurious materials like white leather and pony hair, a testament to the craftsmanship at Dubié. The label’s chic versatility means you’ll be able to wear the pieces on just about any occasion. Think blacks, whites, navy blues and neutrals made with gorgeous linens and raw textures. The pointed backless heels sell like hot cakes here in BA. República de la India 3139, y Seguí (4807 3890/www.dubie.com). Bus 10, 37, 57, 67, 102, 128, 160, 188. Open 10am-8pm Mon-Fri; 11am-8pm Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2.

Garza Lobos Garza Lobos has been causing quite a stir on the city’s fashion circuit since its womenswear collection debuted at 2011’s spring/summer Buenos Aires Fashion Week. The label’s ultrafeminine clothes and signature marbled print have struck a chord with a fashion-forward crowd, as has its experimental use of exotic animal fibres including llama, chinchilla and guanaco. The spacious boutique, in a converted old Palermo house, pairs a minimalist aesthetic with the building’s original charm.

El Salvador 4734, entre Gurruchaga y Armenia (4833 5280/www.garzalobos. com). Bus 15, 34, 39, 55, 57, 106, 110, 140, 141, 151, 168. Open 11am-8pm Mon-Sat; 1-7pm Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3.

NEW House of Matching Colours After designing outfits for London musicians and showing at Paris Fashion Week, Argentinian-Brazilian designer Paula Avellaneda came back

to Buenos Aires to open her fun and Open 10.30am-8pm Mon-Sat; 1-8pm decidedly non-fashionista store in Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3.

Palermo. Her clothes play with Other location Recoleta Mall, masculinity and femininity mixed with Recoleta (4805 1208). a healthy dose of fantasy. Minimalist, black and white transparent materials Them are often layered with iridescent Tucked away on a quiet corner of coloured accents, and the edgy yet soft Palermo Soho, this quirky designer collection ranges from multi-functional shop mixes porteñas’ love for sporty dresses and silver, leather-frilled bum-skimming hemlines and jackets outlined with safety pins to skin-baring cut-outs with just enough sheer, sequined mermaid skirts. House chic to make the clothes more than of Matching Colours prides itself on clubwear. The brand’s crisp black and its artisanal, handmade and elaborately white dresses, loud prints and detailed designs that defy eye-catching shoes like neon lace-ups categorisation; it has developed a genre and pointy white d’Orsay flats, mean of its own. the little store packs a huge punch.

Ground floor A, República de la India Even better, the quality label is 3155, y Avenida del Libertador affordable when compared to (3459 3155/www. many neighbouring shops, houseofmatchingcolours. with its end-of-season com). Bus 10, 37, 57, sales particularly good 67, 102, 107, 128, for bargains.

Leather loving 130, 160, 188. Open Time Out’s favourite places Malabia 1924, y 11am-6pm Mon-Fri; Sat, to buy stylish leather bags Nicaragua (3535 Sun by appt. Credit include Blit Bags (see 0346/www.somosthem.

MC, V. Map G4. p106), Panorama (see com). Bus 15, 35, 39, right) and Patrón 55, 57, 110, 111, 141, (see p106).

160. Open 11am-8pm Juana de Arco Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, Mariana Cortés, the designer MC, V. Map G3. behind the Juana de Arco label,

TOP TIP!

began creating her highly original colourful designs from scraps of fabric.

Through experimentation and incorporating traditional South American textile arts like Ñandutí, a Paraguayan lace-making technique, into her work, Cortés developed the multicoloured patchwork confections that are her signature pieces today.

Underwear is a speciality: treat yourself to the multicoloured bras, camisoles and organic cotton knickers.

Downstairs in the brightly decorated store you can also find the Juana Casa line with patchwork pillows in all shapes and sizes, as well as laptop cases and rugs.

El Salvador 4762, y Gurruchaga (4833 1621/www.juanadearco.net). Bus 15, 34, 39, 55, 57, 106, 110, 140, 141.

Salmón Tienda (see p102)

104 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015/16

FASHION – BOUTIQUES

Amores Trash Couture Fans of 1980s fashion should make sure to stop by this space for party dresses and sexy separates, particularly influenced by BA’s 1980s trash fashion moment. Lace, leopard, and metallics are plentiful but modified to fit modern trends. That doesn’t mean they’ve lost their flashy, attention-grabbing edge though; mixing these pieces into your wardrobe will help you turn heads on the street or on the dancefloor. Head upstairs to check out the selection of vintage clothing and accessories, which isn’t all exclusively 1980s-centric.

Carranza 1709, y Honduras (2000 0626/www.amorestrashcouture.com.ar).

Bus 39, 57, 93, 108, 111, 140, 151.

Open 8am-8pm daily. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3.

Montón Junta de Diseño This airy Palermo apartment showcases the work of young, local designers. You could easily construct a whole new wardrobe from Montón’s range of irresistible wares, which includes dresses, accessories and even lingerie. Must-have items include Clara & Yema’s adorable silver jewellery, Pitimini’s practical and stylish leather bags, and pretty notebooks and dresses

by Notoria. The designers who run the shop are happy to explain the items, and their friendly attitude makes a visit to Montón one of BA’s most enjoyable shopping experiences.

Ground floor, Apartment A, Paraguay 5512, y Ravignani (www.facebook.com/ juntamonton). Subte D, Ministro Carranza/bus 12, 15, 29, 39, 55, 57, 59, 60. Open 4-8pm Tue-Fri; 2-8pm Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H3.

Panorama In Buenos Aires’s thriving fashion industry, designers like Vanesa Krongold and Julia Schang-Vitón form part of a vibrant community of recent graduates who didn’t waste a second launching their own lines straight out of university – and they don’t disappoint. This small but well-stocked boutique is dedicated to promoting those up-and-coming designers, as well as other labels like Blackmamba (see p102) and Them (see left). With all of that under one roof, Panorama is the perfect place to add some Argentinian spirit to your wardrobe.

República de la India 2905, y Cabello (mobile 15 5005 0785/www.pnrm.com. ar). Bus 60, 67, 93, 95, 108, 110.

Open 11am-9pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G4. !Pesqueira If fictitious figures from French films were to hit the streets of BA on a shopping spree, Pesqueira would be Amélie’s first port of call. Innocent insouciance reigns at designer Valeria Pesqueira’s Palermo store. The pretty womenswear collections, full of sweet, feminine garments that are both classic and modern, are designed for the young at heart. Animal prints and marine-inspired stripes are popular, and Pesqueira’s exclusively designed naïve-style motifs are plentiful. There is a wonderful collection of designer trainers that are the perfect memorabilia from this kitsch corner store, while the printed laptop bags are indispensable for any modern ingénue.

Those with little ones should check out the adorable collection for babies and small children.

Gurruchaga 1750, y Pasaje Russel (4833 7218/www.pesqueiratm.com).

Bus 15, 34, 39, 55, 110. Open 11am-8pm Mon-Sat; 3-7pm Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2. !Tupã At the end of a grassy path leading to a classic Palermo propiedad horizontal, you’ll find Tupã, home to the unique

Best of menswear APUESTO El Salvador 5772 (4772 4206/www. apuestoba.com) The handmade shoes at Apuesto ooze understated sophistication. To complete the look, add a sleek cotton shirt or Peruvian pima T-shirt.

BURÓ Uriarte 1472 (www.tienda.buro.com.ar) Expect unique, cutting-edge designs at this small showroom, where the high quality leather shoes are truly built to last.

DINAMARCA Arévalo 1758 (5244 2451/www.rie dinamarca.com) Inspired by Nordic styles, the speakeasy era and the natural world, Dinamarca’s lumberjack checked shirts and casual duds are ideal for looking cool while lounging around.

TERRIBLE ENFANT Gurruchaga 1398 (www.terribleenfant.com) Whether you’re after a smart leather work shoe, a leopard print loafer or a silk bow tie, this hip showroom is bound to have something that fits.

work of up-and-coming designers Julia Schang-Vitón, Agustín Yarde Buller and Martín Boerr. The homey yet modern setting perfectly matches their sleek and contemporary designs, all of which are arranged thoughtfully in various rooms.

Chat with the friendly designers, who often man the store themselves, and evidently take great delight in telling customers the story behind each piece.

Lafinur 3132, entre Cabello y Avenida Cerviño (4806 7100/www.tupatupa. com.ar). Bus 10, 37, 47, 57, 59, 128, 130, 160. Open 11am-7pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G4.

FASHION – MENSWEAR

Bensimon Bensimon’s sophisticated take on casual cool is perfect for metrosexual types looking for toned down but trendy gear. Slim-fitting trousers and T-shirts, lightweight knits and skimpy leather jackets are ideal for lean-bodied twentysomethings keen to attain an unfussy, informal look.

Honduras 4876, entre Armenia y Gurruchaga (4833 6857/www. bensimon.com.ar). Bus 15, 39, 55, 57.

Open 11am-8.30pm Mon-Sat; 2-8.30pm Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2.

Other locations Quintana 492, Recoleta (4807 5218); and branches throughout the city. !Bolivia If you’re the type to carry a manbag and you don’t mind having your

Shopping

CUGGINI Avenida Boedo 502 (3530 9863/www. cuggini.com.ar) These bold patterned shirts and funky shorts and trousers are sure to brighten up your wardrobe. Cuggini also stocks a range of bow ties, ties and braces in all the colours of the rainbow.

sexuality speculated upon, have a gander at Bolivia’s garments. Floral print shirts and shockingly bright knitwear are a far cry from macho menswear; and don’t be fooled by the dark pinstripe suits – though they may appear relatively tame on the outside, the leopard print linings are anything but subtle. If you find that your outfit still requires that extra je ne sais quoi, accessorise with a printed scarf or a brightly coloured tote. The brand offers equally bold womenswear and childrenswear lines as well.

Gurruchaga 1581, entre Gorriti y Honduras (4832 6284/www. boliviaonline.com.ar). Bus 15, 34, 39, 106, 109, 151. Open 10.30am-8.30pm Mon-Sat; 2.30-8pm Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2.

Other locations Nicaragua 4908, Palermo (4832 6409); Costa Rica 4672, Palermo (4831 0478).

Bowen Boys who are into the retro-chic look will love London-inspired Bowen. The look is both soft and hard, with biker jackets, leather boots, cotton hoodies and T-shirts among the mix. It’s a top spot to pick up urban casual wear with a rock ’n’ roll edge sure to boost your sex appeal.

Gurruchaga 1548, y Pasaje Soria (4831 1710/www.bowenlondon.com. ar). Bus 15, 34, 39, 55, 110, 151, 168.

Open 11am-8pm Mon-Sat; 2-8pm Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2.

Other locations Abasto shopping centre, Abasto (4959 3629); Alto Palermo shopping centre, Palermo (5777 8254); and branches throughout the city.

Etiqueta Negra From the impressive window displays to the vintage motorbike inside the store, Etiqueta Negra oozes elegance.

Cultivate effortless chic with slick suits and Italian cotton shirts – ideal for aspiring Clooney types – or buy yourself a bit of old-school cool with Steve McQueen-style subtly worn-in jeans, timeless T-shirts, cashmere-mix knitwear and silky soft leather jackets.

All perfect for the refined rebel with a healthy bank balance. There’s also a small smart-casual range for women.

Honduras 4850, entre Gurruchaga y Armenia (4833 2474/www.etiqueta negra.us). Bus 15, 34, 39, 151. Open 10am-8.30pm Mon-Fri; 10am-9pm Sat; 1-8pm Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2.

Other locations Patio Bullrich shopping centre, Recoleta (4814 7430); Arguibel 2835, Las Cañitas (4776 9818).

Félix Félix’s minimalistic store on calle Honduras perfectly complements the brand’s neat street style. Founded by Martín Egozcue, the label has drawn comparisons to English designer Paul Smith and has established a following among hip types happy to spend time and cash cultivating an image of effortless cool. If you’ve dreamed of being snapped by a street-style spotter, Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015/16 105

Shopping

EMILY JENSEN

Recommended Bosque

You’re probably certain you don’t need a ceramic planter in the shape of a llama or an octagonal glass terrarium, but trust us, take one step into Bosque and you’ll be convinced it’s just what your home was missing. With a name meaning ‘forest’, it’s only natural the store is filled with all kinds of greenery, but other items like ceramic mugs with delicate gold branches for handles and necklaces and rings in the shape of forest-dwelling animals continue the flora and fauna theme. In addition to all kinds of whimsical ceramics, Bosque also stocks colourful paintings, and has a small rack of clothing in the upstairs loft. Dorrego 2086, y Crámer (2071 0737). Open 11am-7pm Mon-Fri; noon-7pm Sat. Bus 39, 57, 93, 108, 151, 168. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H2.

hotfoot it down to this store, then work on the art of loitering decoratively. The factory outlet also stocks togs for trendy sprogs.

Honduras 4916, y Gurruchaga (4832 2164/www.felixba.com.ar). Bus 15, 39, 110, 160. Open 11am-8pm Mon-Fri; 11am-9pm Sat; 2.30-8pm Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2.

Other locations Factory outlet, Godoy Cruz 1645, Palermo (4833 1444); Alcorta Shopping, Palermo (5777 6593).

JEWELLERY

Patrón This delightful jewellery and accessories store stocks statement pieces by both established and up-and-coming Argentinian designers. Artistic displays ensure the presentation is just as lovely as the merchandise itself. In addition to an exceptional range of must-have jewellery there are limited edition pieces like leather jackets and colourful silk scarves. The collection of home decor that includes stunning porcelain vases and intricately hand-painted ceramic bowls proves hard to resist. The owner, jewellery designer Laura Patrón Costas, also curates a small art gallery in the shop’s basement that is well worth checking out.

Malabia 1644, entre Honduras y El Salvador (4831 0351/www.patronba.

com). Bus 15, 36, 39, 55, 57, 110, 140, 168. Open 11am-8pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2.

LEATHER GOODS

Blit Bags Designer George Visir’s showroom is the secret to getting the most luxurious leather bag or purse, but at wholesale prices. Book an appointment with the gregarious designer and you’ll join the ranks of Visir’s VIP clientele, including supermoderl Christy Turlington. The colourful satchels, backpacks and clutches that line the eclectic space will fulfill every aesthetic from boho-chic to lady-who-lunches; details like silk-satin patterned interiors and convertible straps are hallmarks of the quality of every piece rather than gimmicks. And should your shopping companion be bored as you decide just how many bags you can fit in your suitcase, there's a flatscreen TV to make the non-handbag carrying set feel at home.

Address provided at time of booking, (4832 3494/www.shopblit.com). Subte D, Scalabrini Ortiz/bus 10, 12, 15, 29.

Open 10am-8pm daily by appt. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3.

Doma If Kate Moss or Sienna Miller were in town and on the hunt for a leather

106 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015/16

jacket, Doma is where they’d go to find it. Forget shapeless old school classics – this brand is all about keeping up with the latest trends on the street, and it has reinvented the biker jacket to make it sexier than ever.

There’s something for the rock chick too in the ‘American’ collection of jackets, which comes in a range of colours from classic dulce de leche and charcoal to electric blue. Much of the top-quality stock is made from velvety soft sheep’s leather. Pick up a vintage-style bag or a pair of suede heels to complete the boho-chic look.

El Salvador 4693, y Armenia (4831 6852/www.doma-leather.com). Bus 15, 34, 39, 55, 110. Open 10.30am-8pm Mon-Fri; 11am-8pm Sat; 1.30-8pm Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3.

Other locations Martha Salotti 424, Puerto Madero (5787 5180); Gurruchaga 711, Villa Crespo (2058 7124).

Guadalupe Martiarena Guadalupe Martiarena trained as an architect, but leather is truly what’s in her blood. Her father was a leather maker, and the family background shows in Guadalupe’s namesake brand of handmade leather bags, in which she manipulates the material into just about every colour, style and shape.

Bags from the Mix line have a checked pattern of multicoloured leather, with no two bags alike, while the Pampa line features classic black and brown leather mini-backpacks that wouldn’t look out of place on the backs of Alicia Silverstone and her gang in Clueless. If investing in a leather bag is on your Buenos Aires agenda, you’ve come to the right shop.

Julián Alvarez 1419, y Gorriti (4833 6750/www.guadalupemartiarena.com).

Bus 15, 36, 39, 57, 99, 106. Open 11am-7pm Tue-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map F2.

Humawaca At Humawaca, classic Argentinian leather meets innovative shapes and colours. Clutches, slouchy shoulder bags and structured handbags come in almost every colour imaginable, including bright pink, cherry red, sky blue, deep brown, or some combination of them. An expert design team was brought on board to develop bags that fuse modern technology with Humawaca’s signature style; for example, the leather and suede iPod shoulder bag allows the user to change the music via controls on the bag’s strap. If you go a little crazy with souvenir shopping during your stay, Humawaca also sells large bags suited for travel.

El Salvador 4692, y Armenia (4832 2662/www.humawaca.com). Bus 39, 55, 151, 168. Open 11am-8pm Mon-Sat; 2-7pm Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3.

SHOES

Chicco Ruiz Designer Lourdes Chicco Ruiz’s boutique, which shares a space with clothing store DAM, is ideal for women who are keen to indulge their Cinderella fantasies. Besides offering a collection of pretty, handmade styles – from classic leather ankle boots to unconventional sculptural heels – in 15 to 20 days Chicco Ruiz can also produce a customised pair of shoes, starting from AR$1200.

Thames 1780, entre Costa Rica y El Salvador (4831 1264/www. lourdeschiccoruiz.com.ar). Bus 34, 39, 55, 140, 151, 166. Open 11am-8pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, V. Map G3.

Miki & Choya Inés Figueroa Alcorta’s boutique shoe line is a huge hit with local celebrities and the city’s coolest fashionistas. Inés mixes quirky patterns, fabrics and embellishments to create some rather sassy porteño brogues, boots and sandals. Elaborate details make an everyday pair of ballet flats or loafers an extra special buy.

Address provided at time of booking (mobile 15 6299 1593/www.mikichoya. com.ar). Bus 10, 37, 60, 110, 118, 128. Open 2.30-8pm Mon-Fri by appt.

Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G5. !Mishka Trends are given a retro slant at Mishka with footwear that appeals to everyone from teenagers and thirtysomethings to the more mature

Pretty in pink Rosés to tickle your taste buds this summer

1

Crios Rosé de Malbec 2015, Uco Valley, Susana Balbo Wines Bright and breezy, this strawberry and cherry bomb is backed up by a hint of boiled sweet and blood orange. Made entirely with malbec grapes, it’s a crowd pleaser that’s light enough for sipping solo, and has the prettiest of pink hues, perfect for summer evenings. AR$109.

2

3

Andeluna 1300 Malbec Rosé 2015, Tupungato, Andeluna Blackberry and strawberry team up in the nose, while violet aromas typical to the varietal also put in an appearance.

Together with great acidity and an honest mouth, this rosé will keep you cool, making it a perfect match for spicy southeast Asian fare. AR$115.

4

Alta Vista Rosé 2014, Luján de Cuyo/Uco Valley, Alta Vista Spring has certainly sprung in this 100 percent malbec. An intense strawberry and rose-petal nose backs its equally vibrant pink hue. Substantial tannins make this a wine to enjoy with food: try it with beef carpaccio. AR$100.

5

Rosa de Maimará 2014, Jujuy, Bodega Fernando Dupont Who says all rosés have to be delicate? A burly tri-varietal whose grapes come from Jujuy’s Quebrada de Humahuaca, this bottle brings together mature red fruit and floral and smoky notes. Enjoy it on its own, or with a lean steak. AR$179.

– Sorrel Moseley-Williams, sommelier

customer with an appreciation of the brand’s creative designs. Comfortable platforms with wooden or cork soles come in a variety of colours, and are the perfect combination of throwback and trendy. There is also an elegant line of clothing and accessories.

El Salvador 4673, entre Armenia y Malabia (4833 6566/www.mishkashoes. com.ar). Bus 15, 39, 55, 57, 110, 140.

Open 10.30am-8.30pm Mon-Sat; 2-8pm Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3.

Other locations Balcarce 1011, San Telmo (4361 5279); Alcorta Shopping, Palermo (5777 6540).

Terán In this black lacquered, minimalist shop, designer Gonzalo Terán’s exquisite footwear for discerning gentlemen is the focus of attention.

Expert artisans craft Terán’s designs with a range that includes the likes of lace-up boots and suede moccasins. His Oxfords in pink suede or patent leather are perfect for trendy officewear.

NEW Vincent Vincent’s gorgeous slippers prove irresistible to many a shoe-lover, so be forewarned that you may find multiple pairs of slip-ons you simply can’t live without. Styles range from the classic sophistication of purple velvet to more playful designs embroidered with foxes, anchors and palm trees; and while the women’s styles potentially complement many looks, the men’s go best with a smoking jacket, cigar and moustache. Don’t panic if it’s all too much, you can always purchase Vincent’s wares later from the stand in Alcorta Shopping (see p100).

Honduras 4514, y Aráoz (4831 7140/ www.vincentba.com). Bus 36, 39, 106, 110, 151, 160. Open noon-8pm Mon-Sat. Credit MC, V. Map G3.

Shopping

505 Vineyards Rosado 2014, Luján de Cuyo, Bodega y Viñedos Casarena A pale salmon-hued blend of cabernet franc and malbec, this rosé blooms with fresh raspberries and strawberries like a liquid summer pudding. Fresh cherry with a peachy hint and medium acidity in the mouth ensure easy drinking. AR$74.

Thames 1855, entre Costa Rica y Nicaragua (4831 7264/www.teran.com. ar). Bus 34, 36, 39, 55, 93, 111.

Open noon-8.30pm daily. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3.

Other location San Martín 1088, Retiro (4313 9014).

FOOD AND DRINK

!Malambo Cheery porteño Alejandro Soler offers a friendly, customised service at his Palermo Soho vinoteca and deli. He’ll passionately talk you through each wine label you’re interested in and let you try before you buy his quality cheeses and hams. A great place for gifts, this gourmet Aladdin’s den also stocks hard-to-find imported goods popular with homesick expats, such as Ecuadorian chocolate, rye crispbread, Tabasco sauce and Heinz ketchup.

Thames 2098, y Guatemala (4778 0870). Subte D, Plaza Italia/bus 34, 36, 39, 55, 57, 95, 111, 152, 160, 166. Open 11am-9pm, Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3.

The Pick Market New York has Dean & DeLuca, but Buenos Aires has few places where your eyes can feast as much as your stomach. This gourmet café and produce store fills that void, stocking the pick of the local and imported crop. Think fresh fruit and vegetables, meats and cheeses, baked goods, tea and coffee. Grab a bottle of wine (no corkage to drink it in the café), an Illy coffee and a cheese platter and turn your grocery shopping from a chore into a treat.

Ugarteche 3154, y Avenida Cerviño (4806 5259/www.thepickmarket.com. ar). Bus 10, 37, 41, 57, 59, 60, 67, 93, 95, 108. Open 10am-9.30pm Mon, Tue, Sat; 10am-11pm Wed-Fri; 10am-9pm Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G4.

Other locations Libertad 1212, Recoleta (0800 777 0204); Demaría 4527, Palermo (4772 2697).

Sugar & Spice When Frank Almeida couldn’t find cookies like the ones he liked back home in Chicago, he enlisted the help of his wife Fabiana and they started baking them themselves. They’ve since branched out into pound cake – called Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015/16 107

FOTO RUTA

budín here – as well as New York-style bagels, brownies, biscotti and stollen.

The fruity pan dulce (panettone) is a local favourite and the store also stocks a small range of loose-leaf tea.

Guatemala 5419, entre Humboldt y Avenida Juan B Justo (4777 5423/ www.sugarandspice.com.ar). Bus 12, 15, 29, 34, 39, 41, 55, 57, 60, 64, 67.

Open 10am-1pm, 2-7pm Mon-Fri. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H3.

FASHION – BOUTIQUES

Shopping

WINE

Unión Tienda Tucked away in a mostly residential area of Belgrano, this shop sells a whimsical mix of clothing, accessories, jewellery and home wares.

Eclectic though its selection may be, every item is the product of local designers. Standouts include hand-painted ceramic bowls from brand Flinckii, knitwear from expat designer Elizabeth Gleeson’s line, URSA, and delicate, laser-cut T-shirts and sweaters from Petite M. And for when you’ve hardly got room in your suitcase, make a stop at the gorgeous display of jewellery.

3 de Febrero 2086, y Juramento, Belgrano (4783 1253). Bus 15, 29, 42, 44, 55, 60, 63, 64, 80, 107, 113, 114.

Open 4-8pm Tue-Fri; noon-8pm Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V.

Lo de Joaquín Alberdi Step inside this attractive old house close to Palermo’s Plaza Serrano and let the enthusiastic, well-informed staff guide you through the wide range of wines. Boutique bodegas are especially well represented – some of the names to look out for include Achaval Ferrer and De Angeles. Stop by on Thursday or Friday at 7.30pm for a wine tasting.

Jorge Luis Borges 1772, entre El Salvador y Costa Rica (4832 5329/ www.lodejoaquinalberdi.com). Bus 34, 55, 110, 141. Open 11am-9.30pm Mon-Sat; noon-9.30pm Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3.

Siete Spirits Wines from all over the New World are stocked floor-to-ceiling in this snug little shop, but the speciality is Argentinian tinto (red) produced in small wineries, from Patagonia to Salta and everywhere in between. If wine isn’t your area of expertise the knowledgeable, friendly staff will point you in the right direction, and discounts when you buy six or more bottles might have you upping your baggage allowance. To try before you buy, don’t miss the shop’s free weekly tastings, held on Thursdays between 6pm and 8pm.

Nicaragua 5942, entre Arévalo y Ravignani (4779 2823/www.sietespirits. com). Subte D, Ministro Carranza/bus 39, 41, 57, 93, 111. Open noon-8pm Tue-Sat. Credit MC, V. Map H3.

BIKING

Mµvin BA’s ever-expanding bike lanes make cycling an increasingly popular mode of transportation, so of course stylish cycling gear is a necessity. Located along the Gorriti bike path, Mµvin fits the bill. The colourful and modern store presents a stylish mix of form and function, with bike accessories like locks, chains, helmets and baskets in chic prints and colours to spiff up even the most dreary two-wheeler. The bicycles are the pièce de résistance and likely a source of eye candy and envy for every cyclist who passes by. There’s also a rack of bike-friendly clothing, such as jackets with built-in reflectors, to complete your ‘cycle chic’ look.

Gorriti 5051, entre Thames y Serrano (4833 2154/www.muvin.com.ar). Bus 34, 39, 55. Open 10am-7pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2.

TRADITIONAL CRAFTS

!Elementos Argentinos Fernando Bach and Pablo Mendívil stock a selection of irresistible textile

label. Jeans and accessories are timeless Kosiuko staples, while the label also offers a rocker-inspired men’s line and cute options for kids.

Avenida Cabildo 1940, entre Echeverría y Sucre, Belgrano (4788 8228/www.kosiuko.com). Bus 55, 151.

Open 10am-9pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Other locations throughout the city.

FASHION – DESIGNER

Mercado de las Pulgas (see p110)

art and other unique objects at their Palermo store, where English-speaking staff are on hand to help. Handmade by craftspeople from the northern provinces of Argentina, the pieces range from blankets and cushions to toys, furniture and an absolutely stunning stock of one-of-a-kind hand-loomed rugs.

Gurruchaga 1881, entre Nicaragua y Costa Rica (4832 6299/www. elementosargentinos.com.ar). Bus 15.

34, 36, 39, 55, 57, 110, 111, 160.

Open 11am-7pm Tue-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3.

Other location Arenales 1334, Recoleta (4811 0653).

Guaraní Porã A slice of Paraguay in Palermo Hollywood, Guaraní Porã stocks beautiful artisanal objects sourced from Paraguay and northern Argentina.

Some are made traditionally, while others are given a subtle design twist by owner and curator Caro Urresti, who fell in love with Paraguayan culture while on holiday in 2006. Highlights include classic leather bags, ornaments inspired by traditional farm life and funky cable chairs that come in a range of metallic colours. Those looking to make smaller purchases can opt for pretty cushion covers or handcrafted placemats.

Ravignani 1441, y Niceto Vega (4775 3614/www.guaranipora.com). Bus 39, 93, 108, 111, 140, 151, 168. Open 3-8pm Wed-Sat. No credit cards.

Map H2.

108 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015/16

Abasto

SHOPPING CENTRES

Abasto de Buenos Aires This converted fruit market is one of the finest examples of art deco architecture in the city, which makes it a great venue for window shopping. It’s also a magnet for hordes of teenagers, though there are stores for all ages and tastes. Abasto contains a kids’ play area, a busy 12-screen cinema, a large food court with a kosher McDonalds (the only one outside of Israel) and some 230 shops, including Bowen, Zara, Penguin and Rapsodia. Be warned: this shopping centre is hectic at the weekend.

Avenida Corrientes 3247, entre Agüero y Anchorena (4959 3400/www.abastoshopping.com.ar). Subte B, Carlos Gardel/bus 24, 26, 29, 64, 68, 71, 118, 124, 168. Open 10am-10pm daily.

Credit varies. Map E3.

Belgrano, Colegiales and Villa Crespo FASHION – CHAINS

Kosiuko When Britney Spears shoehorned herself into a pair of Kosiuko jeans for her ‘Overprotected’ video clip, it did wonders for raising the profile (and revenue) of the Argentinian streetwear

JT Hidden among mechanical workshops in Villa Crespo, clothing designer Jessica Trosman’s shop-cum-factory is a triumph of urban design. The unique, high-end garments contrast beautifully with the plain cement floor and corrugated metal ceiling and are illuminated by an abundance of natural light. The brand’s motto ‘Not to be understood’ is reflected in the unconventional cuts, light, luxurious fabrics and interesting textures of investment pieces designed for the seriously stylish. Weary shoppers can step through the sliding door to the equally glorious café Yeite (see p24), or gaze in awe at the factory at the back of the shop, where Trosman began her career 20 years ago.

Humboldt 291, y Murillo,Villa Crespo (4857 6009/www.jtbyjt.com). Subte B, Dorrego/bus 19, 45, 55, 65, 71, 76, 93, 108, 109. Open 11am-7pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H1.

Manto Abrigos This stunning Villa Crespo showroom stocks gorgeous, one of a kind, ethically-made coats, jackets, sweaters and accessories. Andean weavers construct the textiles by hand and prices reflect the artisan process, but the quality of the brand’s printed trenches, chic cocoon coats and wool sweaters is undeniable. The designs are as stylish as they come, but these are pieces that’ll last a lifetime.

Apartment A, 1st floor, Unit D, Darwin 1154, y Castillo, Villa Crespo (4855 5218/www.mantoabrigos.com.ar). Bus 19, 34, 39, 55, 90, 93, 108, 111, 127, 140, 151. Open noon-6pm Mon-Fri. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H2.

LEATHER GOODS

JEWELLERY

Julia Alvarez and Catalina Semilla Located on a quiet street in Colegiales, this showroom and workshop has delicate, affordable jewellery and homeware crafted by Julia Alvarez and Catalina Dupont. Silver rings, wooden necklaces and colourful pins all come in under the AR$600 mark and, should you feel inspired, you can sign up to make your own at the jewellery classes.

Address provided at the time of booking, Colegiales (mobile 15 6004 0430). Bus 19, 44, 65, 80, 113, 151, 168, 184. Open 2-7pm Mon-Fri by appt. No credit cards.

Health and beauty HAIRDRESSERS

Cerini A flawless finish is what Cerini’s all about. Colouring, roll-brush drying, trims, manicures and pedicures are done by professional stylists and foreign visitors swear this is a safe place to get your hair cut. Highlights are done old school style, with a cap, but this is common practice in BA, and they come out fine.

Marcelo T de Alvear 1471, entre Paraná y Uruguay, Recoleta (4813 3594/www.cerini.net). Bus 10, 17, 39.

Open 8am-10pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D5.

Other locations Sucre 2245, Belgrano (4787 3400); Alcorta Shopping, Palermo (4800 1815).

Roho Hair Boutique There’s a reason Oscar Fernández’s famed salon has been going for over 20 years. The first cutting edge hair salon to open in Buenos Aires, Roho maintains its finger firmly on the pulse of the latest trends year after year. Its reputation as a salon to rock stars (it was a favourite for local rock royalty Luis Alberto Spinetta and Gustavo Cerati) precedes it, but Roho’s friendly and approachable stylists make absolutely everyone feel welcome.

Malabia 1931, y Nicaragua (4833 7227/www.roho.com.ar). Bus 15, 36, 39, 55, 57, 110, 160. Open 10am-9pm Tue-Fri; 10am-8pm Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3.

Other location República de la Indonesia 66, Caballito (4904 0236).

Terrie Orr Anyone who has gone in for a trim and stepped out with a mullet will appreciate this Irish hairdresser’s attentiveness to instructions and detail. Friendly, professional and thorough, Terrie works from her Palermo apartment and specialises in colour corrections. She is also a qualified HD brow therapist.

Address provided at time of booking, Palermo (mobile 15 3432 4141/ terrie.orr@gmail.com). Subte D, Palermo/bus 10, 34, 37, 57, 130, 160, 166. Open 9am-9.30pm Tue-Sat by appt. No credit cards. Map H4.

OPTICIANS

!Carla Di Sí Innovative local eyewear designer Carla Di Sí has her own classy and sassy line, with an emphasis on handmade frames.

Colourful cat-eye glasses and hexagonal tortoiseshell lenses are perfect accessories for any fashionista. Vintage fans will also love the selection of antique frames sourced by Carla’s optician grandfather. The service here is attentive and honest – much appreciated when you’re squinting away at your bespectacled reflection.

Gurruchaga 1677, entre El Salvador y Honduras, Palermo (4832 1655/www. carladisi.com.ar). Bus 15, 34, 39, 55, 57, 106, 110, 168. Open 11am-8pm Mon-Sat; 4-8pm Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2.

Infinit Boutique The stock at this cool eyewear emporium usually includes tortoiseshell frames that are reminiscent of vintage specs, cat-eye frames with metallic detailing in the corners, and sunglasses in a variety of shapes and colours.

Thames 1602, y Honduras, Palermo (4831 7070/www.infinit.la). Bus 34, 39, 55, 151, 168. Open 11am-8pm Mon-Sat; 3-7pm Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2.

Palo Santo What began as an industrial design project at the University of Buenos Aires has morphed into a stylish, successful business. The woodenframed sunglasses at Palo Santo (named after a type of wood indigenous to Argentina) hit just the right mix of eco-friendly and chic.

Thanks to the innovative material, even the most retro-inspired wayfarers feel modern. And while wooden sunglasses may seem impractical, rest assured these quality frames are waterresistant. If you fall in love with them but are not blessed with perfect vision, ask owner Juan Ignacio Ronzini for a pair with prescription lenses.

Bonpland 2215, y Guatemala (4778 9509). Bus 12, 15, 29, 39, 93, 111, 118. Open 10.30am-7.30pm Mon-Fri; 3-7.30pm Sat. Credit MC, V. Map H3.

MANICURISTS

Queenies Treating oneself has never been so easy at this nail parlour turned all-inclusive

Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015/16 109

Shopping

Murillo 666 On this stretch of calle Murillo between Scalabrini Ortiz and Gurruchaga, there are plenty of outlets that offer leather jackets at below bargain-basement prices.

Murillo 666 stands out for its huge selection, which includes handbags, belts, wallets, luggage and even sofas: if you want it, you’ll probably find it here, and if not here, then it will almost certainly be in one of the other leather stores on the block.

Murillo 666, entre Acevedo y Malabia, Villa Crespo (4856 4501/www.murillo 666.com.ar). Subte B, Malabia/bus 15, 19, 24, 42, 55, 57, 76, 109, 110, 112, 127, 141. Open 9.30am-8pm Mon-Sat; 10am-7pm Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G1.

beauty salon. Nails are the hottest accessory in BA and here you can get a daring animal-print manicure and glamorous ‘nail-overs’. Afterwards, step next door into the beauty salon where you can get your face cleansed, plucked and pampered. Offering luxurious facial treatments and a range of beauty products, Queenies is at the top of the list with the ultimate stylists in town.

Fitz Roy 1879, y Costa Rica, Palermo (4899 0746/www.queeniesbuenosaires. com). Bus 34, 39, 57, 93, 108, 111, 166. Open 10am-7.30pm Tue-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H3.

Other location Montevideo 1208, Recoleta (4812 7137).

Shopping

SPAS AND MASSAGES

Home Spa The spa at Home Hotel (see p143) is the perfect place for a pampering experience after a hard day’s shopping in Palermo. Open to both guests and non-guests, the spa offers a range of treatments including Thai Shiatsu and hot stone massages.

Honduras 5860, entre Carranza y Ravignani, Palermo (4778 1008/www. homebuenosaires.com). Bus 39, 93, 108, 111, 140, 151, 168. Open 8.30am-8.30pm daily. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H2.

Nicola Tarbuck Massage and physical therapist Nicola Tarbuck’s past clients include Robert Plant, Bruce Springsteen and the entire cast of Cirque du Soleil. Luckily for us mere mortals she now offers her fantastic services from the same Palermo apartment as hairdresser Terrie Orr (see p109). Thanks to over 12 years of experience, Tarbuck can pinpoint the source of aches and pains, easing them out slowly with her capable hands. She also specialises in back pain and post-injury rehabilitation, and provides a range of services to pregnant ladies.

Address provided at the time of booking, Palermo (mobile 15 6661 6836/nicolatarbuck@gmail.com). Subte D, Palermo/bus 10, 37, 57, 130, 160, 166. Open 9am-8pm Mon-Fri; noon-3pm Sat by appt. No credit cards. Map H4.

Spa Castelar A great value spa in the centre of the city, the Spa Castelar is open to non-guests of the Castelar Hotel (see p138) and is divided into male and female sectors. Relax in the saunas, pop into the Turkish and Finnish baths or try a stress-relieving massage.

Avenida de Mayo 1148, entre Salta y Lima, Congreso (4381 4037/www. castelarhotel.com.ar). Subte A, Lima/ bus 2, 5, 8, 9, 10, 17, 24, 29, 39, 45.

Open Men 11am-9pm Mon-Fri; 9am-8pm Sat. Women noon-9pm Mon-Fri; 11am-8pm Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map C4.

WAXING

The Beauty Saloon Hairlessness is big business in this city, but if grinning and baring it all in any old backstreet dive is not your idea of a rip-roaring time, then head to the depilación experts at this sleek Recoleta

boutique. As well as waxing every nook and cranny, they have nailed the art of manis and pedis, and also offer massages and facial treatments.

Uriburu 1397, y French, Recoleta (2066 2671). Bus 10, 95, 102, 106, 108, 110, 118, 124, 152. Open 9am-8pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map E4.

Shopping index

Markets Feria de Mataderos This colourful food and crafts fair takes over the central square of Mataderos, a 45-min bus ride from the city centre. The fair is the place to come for a taste of the pampas and to buy authentic gaucho gear – think silver knives, leather belts, country hats, oh, and a whole load of dulce de leche. Entertainment takes the form of folkloric music and dancing, while riders display their prowess on horses.

Avenida Lisandro de la Torre, y San Pedro, Mataderos (www.feriade mataderos.com.ar). Bus 55, 80, 92, 126. Open Mar-Dec 11am-8pm Sun; late Jan, Feb 6-9.30pm Sat. Feria San Pedro Telmo Stroll down calle Defensa and its surrounding streets on a Sunday to soak up the atmosphere of this fair. Marvel at the busking talent and check out hundreds of stalls selling antiques, handmade jewellery, tango memorabilia, paintings, funky clothing, second-hand books, leather accessories and a host of other items. As the sun goes down, you’ll see stallholders in Plaza Dorrego pack away their wares and part of the square transform into an atmospheric outdoor milonga (a social tango dance).

Plaza Dorrego, y Defensa entre Avenida de Mayo y Avenida San Juan, San Telmo (www.feriadesantelmo.com). Bus 9, 10. Open 10am-5pm Sun. Map B4.

Mercado de las Pulgas This cluttered flea market on the Colegiales/Palermo border focuses on antique furniture and quirky household items. Packed with atmosphere and random treasures, it’s a good alternative for fans of vintage who are tired of the more touristy and jam-packed weekend market in San Telmo.

Conde y Dorrego, Colegiales (www. elmercadodepulgas.com.ar). Bus 39, 93.

Open 10am-7pm Tue-Sun. Map H2.

Mercado de San Telmo This market, with various entrances including one opposite La Brigada (see p30), is a not only a great place to find fresh fruit, vegetables and meat, as well as antiques and leather goods, its stunning ironwork makes for a great spot for a photo-op. There are also a few second-hand record shops, and the deli sells parma ham, delicious mini alfajores, home-made jams and pickles and soft Argentinian cheeses. If you fancy giving your feet a rest, have a coffee at the excellent stand Coffee Town, in the middle of the market.

Defensa 961, entre Estados Unidos y Carlos Calvo, San Telmo. Bus 4, 8, 9, 24, 93. Open 8am-8pm daily. Map B4.

110 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015/16

Oleana (see p98)

Antiques, art and collectibles Gabriel Del Campo Anticuario HB Antigüedades

95 95

Biking Mµvin

108

Bookshops Alamut Libros Ateneo Grand Splendid Dain Usina Cultural Libros del Pasaje Walrus Books

100 98 100 100 96

Boutiques Amores Trash Couture Lena Martorello Montón Junta de Diseño Panorama Pesqueira Puntos en el Espacio Tupã Unión Tienda

104 94 104 104 104 96 104 108

Chains De la Ostia Kosiuko Las Pepas Paula Cahen D’Anvers

102 108 98 102

Children and maternity Venga Madre

98

Design and home accessories Autoría BsAs Bosque Cualquier Verdura Fueguia L’Ago Nobrand Pehache Sabater Hermanos Salmón Tienda Violraviol

95 106 96 98 96 100 100 102 102 102

Designer Agostina Bianchi Blackmamba Cecilia Gadea Cora Groppo Cubreme Dubié Garza Lobos House of Matching Colours JT Juana de Arco Manto Abrigos Them Tramando

102 102 102 102 102 104 104 104 108 104 108 104 98

Food and drink Almacén 1249 Malambo The Pick Market Sugar & Spice

95 107 107 107

Hairdressers Cerini Roho Hair Boutique Terrie Orr

109 109 109

Jewellery Julia Alvarez and Catalina Semilla Manu Lizarralde Marcelo Toledo

109 95 96

Oleana Patrón Plata Nativa Signos

98 106 95 96

Leather goods Blit Bags Casa Lopez Doma Guadalupe Martiarena Humawaca Murillo 666 Prüne Redondo Frydman Rossi & Caruso Santesteban

106 95 106 106 106 109 95 98 100 100

Manicurists Queenies

109

Markets Feria de Mataderos Feria San Pedro Telmo Mercado de las Pulgas Mercado de San Telmo

110 110 110 110

Menswear Apuesto Bensimon Bolivia Bowen Buró Cuggini Dinamarca Etiqueta Negra Félix La Martina Terrible Enfant

105 105 105 105 105 105 105 105 105 95 105

Music Abraxas

100

Opticians Carla Di Sí Infinit Boutique Palo Santo

109 109 109

Shoes Chicco Ruiz Comme Il Faut Jessica Kessel Miki & Choya Mishka Posco Terán Vincent

106 100 96 106 106 102 107 107

Shopping centres Abasto de Buenos Aires Alcorta Shopping Alto Palermo Galería Bond Street Galería Patio del Liceo Galerías Pacífico Patio Bullrich Recoleta Mall

108 100 100 96 96 95 98 98

Spas and massages Home Spa Nicola Tarbuck Spa Castelar

110 110 110

Traditional crafts Arandú Elementos Argentinos Guaraní Porã

100 108 108

Vintage and used Bimba Vintage Gil Antigüedades Juan Pérez Vittorita

98 96 98 95

Wine Lo de Joaquín Alberdi Siete Spirits

108 108

Waxing The Beauty Saloon

110

Arts & Leisure

Photograph: Foto Ruta

Around Town

112

Art

121

Film & Media

124

Fitness & Sports

125

Gay & Lesbian

127

Music

129

Performing Arts

131

Tango

133

Around Town

Street art goes underground Graffiti is already a huge part of BA’s streets, but recently, urban artists have been invited to add a splash of colour to the city’s underground stations. Sorcha O’Higgins explores BA’s best Subte art

In 2014, a collection of artists brought together by Buenos Aires Street Art – a group that supports local street artists – painted two collaborative murals along the length of the platforms in Federico Lacroze station. On one side, El Marian, Jiant, Malegria and Primo created a 90-metre long interpretation of a South American jungle, where indigenous tribesmen are set against sprawling vegetation and scrambling reptiles. On the other platform, a Day-Glo Amazonian rainforest, complete with native animals such as iguanas and piranhas by artists Oz Montania, Luxor, Ice and Animalito Land, stretches over 110 metres.

One of the first stations to be painted in 2009, Puan has artwork that differs from other stations for a number of reasons. Firstly, the pieces are painted on the walls above the tunnel entrances, meaning they can be viewed from above, by the ticket office, and below, on the platform. The murals also serve as an enduring showcase of early works by many of Argentina’s renowned urban artists such as Jaz, Ever and Poeta, whose graffiti from the time has long been painted over. Lastly, artists Nerf, Dano, Shonis, Teko and Cabe got permission to graffiti this station, subverting the idea that all graffiti on the underground is illegal.

112 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015/16

Two complementary yet contrasting murals were painted in this station in 2014; one by two stylistically similar female artists, Georgina Ciotti and Lula Mari, and the other by Emy Mariani. Ciotti’s surreal landscapes provide a battleground for her human/animal hybrids, which charge at, and mutate into, each other. Further down the platform, a murky swamp gives way to Mari’s flatlands, where a rabbit jumps in freeze-frames into the unknown. The mural on the opposite platform depicts a darker and more sinister environment; shadowy silhouettes chase each other with spears in scenes reminiscent of The Lord of the Rings. Coincidentally, the mural, ‘Por el camino del diablo’, is based on the album Sobrenatural by the hard rock band Sauron.

The artwork in Uruguay station falls into one of two categories: ceramics depicting scenes and characters from famous Argentinian comic strips, known as historietas, and pieces by Argentinian artist Claudio Baldrich. Baldrich’s colourful and playful illustrations provide a modern and whimsical take on Argentinian cartoons, while three tiled alcoves contain the classic historietas. One features scenes and characters from Héctor Oesterheld’s apocalyptic 1950s comic strip El Eternauta, another Roberto Fontanarrosa’s beloved protagonist and lonely gaucho Inodoro Pereyra, and the last has a cast of tango characters painted by popular cartoonist Crist.

Pichincha station opened in 1944, and recently received a fresh splash of paint from Argentinian street artist Fede Minuchin, member of urban art collective Rundontwalk. Minuchin used images from 1940s and 1950s advertisements to create an epic stencil that covers the four street entrances, the main concourse and ticket hall, the stairway to the platforms and the platforms. Minuchin says that you can see ‘a battle of the sexes’ in the vintage images, as the woman is often depicted as a housewife. As well as referencing old adverts, the mural also includes images of children playing, with one – in typical Rundontwalk style – riding a crocodile as if it was a surfboard.

Around Town

In 2015, the name of this station was changed from Pasteur to Pasteur-AMIA to commemorate the 21st anniversary of the car bombing of Jewish centre the AMIA, which killed 85 people and injured over 300. The perpetrators of the attack remain unknown, and the case’s chief investigator, Alberto Nisman, was found dead in his apartment in January 2015, prompting nationwide outrage and scores of conspiracy theories. Twenty-five artists contributed to the station’s artwork, which includes an installation of a clock set to the date and time of the attack, a mural with the names of the victims – replicating the one that was previously outside the AMIA, and cartoons by political satirists such as Maitena and Hermenegildo Sábat.

Airy, spacious and pristine, Perú station is one of the most pleasant Subte stops. It has white tiled walls and decorative riveted iron columns painted in orange, which match the borders of the tiled niches, originally intended to house advertisements. These alcoves were repurposed in 2015, so that instead of displaying the usual adverts for mobile phone companies, universities and yoghurt, they hold vintage Argentinian ads for old toys, household products and beer.

The artwork in Perú station takes advantage of the existing decoration of the platform walls and evokes nostalgia in most viewers, even those unfamiliar with the brands on display.

In 2013, Argentina’s most famous hyperrealist street artist, Martin Ron, teamed up with the now disbanded collective Triángulo Dorado to paint inside the frames usually reserved for advertisements at this station. Triángulo Dorado took charge of the frames at the ends of the platform, while Ron had the run of the middle section. Stylistically, thematically and visually, the work by Ron and Dorado couldn’t be more different. Dorado draws on ethnic and indigenous themes, referencing birds, cacti and Bolivian ladies known as cholitas, while Ron takes a neo-classical approach and reimagines ancient Greek and Roman statues stoically placed among clouds, creating a powerful tapestry of visual sculpture.

Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015/16 113

The basics

Around Town

Although the future of Argentina remains unpredictable, especially with a new president taking over in December 2015, some things in Buenos Aires will never change. The steaks are delicious, the malbec flows constantly, the sun nearly always shines and the local people are almost too beautiful to be true. Whether you’re exploring the contrasts of BA’s many barrios, touring the cultural centres – including shiny new offering the Centro Cultural Kirchner (see p120) – or realising the bustling city is more kid-friendly than you thought (see p120), you’ll have to admit that BA is anything but dull.

GETTING AROUND To find your way around, use the map references throughout the magazine, which correspond to the map on pages 158-159. Public transport in BA is excellent, with the simplest mode for disorientated travellers being the Subte (underground train). Buses, known as colectivos, are the city’s lifeblood. See page 160 for prices and information.

If you plan to do much travelling by bus, pick up a Guía T bus routes booklet at kiosks. You can also plan your trip by car, bus, Subte, train and even bike with the useful www.mapa. buenosaires.gob.ar or the BA Cómo Llego app. Taxi drivers pride themselves on city knowledge, but it’s safest to stick to radio taxis with a company phone number on the passenger door, or risk being taken for the wrong kind of ride. Better still, explore on foot.

THE CENTRE

French-style palaces, wide avenues and green plazas meet choking traffic and clamorous protestors: the city’s historic and commercial nerve centre, El Centro – Microcentro and beyond – is where former splendour and urban dreams compete with grittier realities.

Plaza de Mayo BA’s historic central square is still a magnet for protests and celebrations, which gravitate towards the vividly pink Casa Rosada presidential palace. Facing it, the Cabildo was the headquarters of the city council from 1580 to 1821. On the northern side of the plaza, the neoclassical Catedral Metropolitana houses the remains of the liberator José de San Martín, who died in France in 1850. At the centre of the Plaza is the Pirámide de Mayo, an obelisk raised in 1811 for the first anniversary of the May revolution.

Don’t miss the white-headscarved Madres de Plaza de Mayo, who still march around the pyramid with banners and photos each Thursday from 3.30pm, protesting the disappearance of their sons and daughters during the last military dictatorship (1976-83).

Subte A, Plaza de Mayo or D, Catedral or E, Bolívar/bus 22, 56, 126. Map C5. ! Take five Have lunch in the sun at the café in the Cabildo’s patio.

Avenida de Mayo European-style buildings with exquisite architectural details make this avenue, which links Plaza de Mayo with Congress, 15 blocks west, a lovely

Julio, said to be the widest street in the world. In the middle of Avenida 9 de Julio near Avenida Belgrano stands the Ministry of Social Development building, emblazoned on two sides with contrasting murals of Eva Perón.

Facing the north of the city, Evita appears caught up in a fiery speech, while on the other side she casts her saintly smile over the traditionally working-class barrios of the south. The epicentre of BA’s mainstream theatre district lies just west of the obelisk, along Avenida Corrientes.

Subte A, Sáenz Peña or B, Uruguay or D, Tribunales/bus 10, 60. Map C3, D4. ! Take five Enjoy a tasty sandwich at Tostado Café Club (Avenida Córdoba 1501, 0800 555 2233).

choice for an atmospheric city-centre stroll. The outstanding edifice is the Palacio Barolo at number 1370, a neo-Gothic tribute to the 100 cantos of Dante’s Divine Comedy.

Subte A, Plaza de Mayo, Perú, Piedras, Lima, Sáenz Peña or D, Catedral or E, Bolívar/bus 39, 64, 168. Map C4, C5. ! Take five Head to the magnificent Café Tortoni (see p21) for a coffee.

Congreso This relatively run-down downtown neighbourhood nevertheless contains a few flashes of grandeur. Completed in 1906, the parliament building, Palacio del Congreso, is a grand dome-andcolumn affair, and can be visited via a free guided tour in English on Monday, Tuesday, Thursday and Friday at 12.30pm and 5pm (2822 3000, www. congreso.gob.ar, closed Jan).

Subte A, Congreso/bus 12, 60, 105.

Map C3, C4, D4. ! Take five Devour a Colombian arepa at tiny takeaway spot I Love Arepa (Rodríguez Peña 25, 4381 1047).

Microcentro On weekdays during business hours the downtown district is a maelstrom of porteños shopping, working, running, shouting and flouting traffic laws. The motherlode of the mayhem is pedestrianised calle Florida. Nearby calle Lavalle is packed with B-movie cinemas and gaudy, eye-searing signs, making the hectic calle Florida look positively chic in comparison. Don’t miss the Centro Cultural Kirchner, in the recently rennovated central post office. The centre has a packed programme of events, and is worth a visit just to marvel at the building.

Subte B, Florida or C, Lavalle or D, Catedral/bus 4, 20, 152. Map C5, D5. ! Take five Get a gourmet burger and a gin and tonic at The Sandwich Bar (Talcahuano 379, 4381 3288).

Tribunales Tribunales is home to BA’s law courts and law firms. The centrepiece of the neighbourhood is the Palacio de Justicia, seat of the Supreme Court.

Stretching out in front as far as Avenida Córdoba is Plaza Lavalle, an attractive green spot rich in history. Across the plaza, is the magnificent Teatro Colón (see p131). Erected in 1936, to mark the 400th anniversary of the founding of the city, the phallic cement spike El Obelisco sits at the intersection of Avenida Corrientes and Avenida 9 de FOTO RUTA

Retiro For centuries, this area was the northern edge of the city. Today, the area’s main attraction, aside from the railway stations (see p160), is the Plaza San Martín, which is surrounded by impressive buildings, like the Palacio Paz and the Palacio San Martín. South America’s tallest building when inaugurated in 1935, the lofty Kavanagh building is another significant landmark.

At the foot of the plaza is an obsidian marble cenotaph dedicated to those who died in the 1982 Malvinas (Falklands) war. Just over the road stands a clock tower that was a gift from local Anglo-Argentinians for Argentina’s 1910 centennial celebrations. Initially known as the Torre de los Ingleses, it was renamed the Torre Monumental after the 1982 territorial war with Britain.

Subte C, San Martín, Retiro/bus 6, 20, 93, 152. Map D5, D6. ! Take five Order the menú del día at the stylish Grand Café (see p21).

SOUTH OF THE CENTRE

When people talk about ‘bohemian’ Buenos Aires, more often than not they are referring to the southern barrios of the city – Monserrat, San Telmo and La Boca in particular.

Porteños bask in the shade of the city's oldest tree, located in Recoleta

114 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015/16

Monserrat This historic barrio attracts less tourism than San Telmo, but its heritage and architecture are in a class of their own.

Around Town Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015/16 115

The Iglesia de San Ignacio, on the corner of Alsina and Bolívar, dates from 1734 and is the oldest church in the city.

It’s part of the Manzana de las Luces, a set of historic buildings that occupies an entire city block and which has at various times been a Jesuit school, a university library and the representative chamber from which BA province was governed until 1880.

Subte A, Piedras or C, Moreno or E, Bolívar/bus 2, 23, 91, 98. Map C4. ! Take five Chow down a burger and a craft beer at Del Toro (see p28).

Around Town

San Telmo Tourists are entranced by the cobblestone streets and crumbling mansions of this classic working-class barrio, which has since been gentrified.

Heading to San Telmo from Plaza de Mayo, Defensa and Balcarce are the most pleasant and scenic streets to walk along. To see the inside of a house from 1880, visit the Pasaje de la Defensa (Defensa 1179), a refurbished two-storey mansion now bristling with antiques shops and souvenir stands. Plaza Dorrego is one of the few plazas in the city where you can eat and drink al fresco, and on Sundays is the epicentre of the neighbourhood’s famous and very popular street market, which sells antiques and crafts.

Subte C, Independencia/bus 10, 17, 24, 29, 39, 64, 152. Map B4. ! Take five Grab a healthy treat at Hierbabuena (see p34).

was once a hotbed for working-class protest movements but is being gentrified. Don’t miss artist Marino Santa María’s mosaic mural on calle Lanín (www.marinosantamaria.com).

Exploring both Barracas and Constitución alone at night is not recommended. Boedo, filled with bohemian cafés, bars and theatres, is home to San Lorenzo football club and is one of the city’s cradles of tango.

Subte C, Constitución or E, Boedo/bus 20, 56, 59, 84, 100. Map A2, A3, B2, B3, C3, D1. ! Take five Try the vegetarian picada at Pan y Arte (see p38).

NORTH OF THE CENTRE

When wealthy porteños fled a yellow fever epidemic in 1871, they gravitated en masse to Barrio Norte. Mansions and palaces soon spread to Recoleta and Palermo, today the most stylish and European of all BA’s districts.

Recoleta & Barrio Norte It’s Buenos Aires’s most exclusive patch of real estate – but nobody lives there. We refer, of course, to the Cementerio de la Recoleta, one of the world’s great necropolises. A walk down its fine alleys is one of BA’s undisputed delights; and though many presidents are entombed here, the resting place of María Eva Duarte de Perón, aka Evita, is probably its biggest draw.

Next to the cemetery’s entrance is the whitewashed Basílica Nuestra Señora del Pilar, founded in 1716 La Boca

by Jesuit missionaries, In space and spirit, La ¿Cómo llego?

Boca is as far south as Mapa Interactivo (mapa. with superb art and BA goes, divided from buenosaires.gob.ar) and performance venue the vast suburbs of the BA Cómo Llego app Centro Cultural Greater Buenos Aires by now cover routes outside Recoleta (see p120) just next door. the dark, toxic gloop of Capital Federal.

Plaza Francia, the Riachuelo river. The directly north-east of the barrio’s main attraction, cultural centre, is taken over every Caminito, is a short, pedestrianised weekend by an excellent handicrafts street – a garish tourist trap to some; fair, while across the wide Avenida but an interesting glimpse, Figueroa Alcorta, the neoclassical nevertheless, of the city’s historic port Facultad de Derecho (law faculty) neighbourhood. The corrugated zinc cuts an imposing figure. shacks stacked on each side of the Don’t miss the huge, shining wide path (caminito) owe their vivid Floralis Genérica sculpture colours to impoverished locals, who, back in the day, begged incoming ships immediately to its left. The recently restored flower has petals that open for excess tins of paint to brighten up and close daily with the sun. their homes.

Subte D, Agüero, Pueyrredón/bus 39, These days, the area is thronged 64, 93, 110, 152. Map E4, E5, F4. with tango dancers, models posing as ! Take five Get an energy boost with tango dancers, artisans, tourists and a a fresh jugo at Be Juice (see p22). healthy complement of grafters. We can’t stress it enough: stick to the obviously tourist area around Caminito Palermo Immense Palermo contains a number and avoid the barrio after dark. of subdivisions, some semi-official and Don’t miss the Fundación Proa (see p121), a magnificent art gallery on others surely dreamt up by real estate agents. Most people accept three areas: the waterfront, and cultural centre Palermo Chico (bordering Recoleta) for Usina del Arte (see p132).

Bus 20, 25, 29, 46, 168. Map A1, A4. embassies and the filthy rich; leafy Palermo Viejo (comprising Palermo ! Take five Have lunch and a glass Hollywood and Palermo Soho) for of vino at the Fundación Proa’s café. global cuisine and funky boutiques; and Palermo for the rest.

Constitución, Barracas & Boedo Palermo’s Plaza Italia is one of the Run-down Constitución is best known city’s noisiest and busiest junctions. Off for its railway station, built in the to one side lies the zoo, the Jardín 1880s to help wealthy weekenders get Zoológico (Avenida Sarmiento, y to the coast. Neighbouring Barracas Avenida Las Heras, 4011 9900, www.

TOP TIP!

116 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015/16

Free for all

zoobuenosaires.com.ar). Also bordering Plaza Italia is the slightly shabby but pleasingly tranquil botanical gardens.

Inaugurated in 1898, the Jardín Botánico Carlos Thays (Avenida Santa Fe 3951, 4831 4527) is full of fountains, statues, orchids, cacti, ferns and trees – and an army of snogging teenagers and feral cats.

Parque Tres de Febrero is the city’s largest green lung and a great place for a breather. Its crowning jewel is the delightful Rosedal (rose garden).

At night the area, also known as the Bosques de Palermo (Palermo woods), can be dangerous and is a known pick-up spot for transvestite prostitutes. Inside the park and flanked by avenidas Casares and Berro, the Jardín Japonés (Japanese garden) was created in 1967 as a gift from the city’s Japanese community.

Parque Tres de Febrero is also home to the golf-ball-shaped Planetario (Avenida Belisario Roldán y Sarmiento, 4771 6692, www.planetario.gob.ar, closed Mon). Its telescopes can be used by the public on Saturday and Sunday.

Subte D, Bulnes, Scalabrini Ortiz, Plaza Italia/bus 39, 59, 60, 152. Map F3, F4, F5, G4, G5. ! Take five Stop in at Malvón (see p24) for brunch.

Palermo Viejo Comprising Palermo Soho and Palermo Hollywood (Soho is south-east of Avenida Juan B Justo and Hollywood is north-west), Palermo Viejo was run down and romantic until the early 1990s. It has since been radically gentrified by an influx of hip restaurants, nightclubs, bars and boutiques. Plazoleta Cortázar (more commonly known as Plaza Serrano) remains popular, and those who find the area’s bars too pricey or pretentious can be found here, with a bottle of Quilmes beer.

Las Cañitas A buzzing residential and dining district, Las Cañitas is fringed by the polo ground and the Hipódromo Argentino de Palermo (see p125) and is a focal point for the monied socialites of Palermo and Belgrano. By night, the bars on calle Báez fill up quickly, particularly on weekends.

However, Las Cañitas has little in the way cultural interest apart from the Centro Cultural Islámico Rey Fahd mega-mosque at avenidas Bullrich and del Libertador.

Bus 42, 59, 67, 68, 152. Map H4. ! Take five Tuck into a steak at Parrilla el Primo (see p62).

Around Town

You don’t have to part with your pesos to enjoy Buenos Aires. To see the sights, join the BA Free Tour (see p120), or explore solo by signing up to bike-lending scheme Eco Bici (see p125). Keep an eye on www.festivales.buenosaires.gob.ar for details of BA’s free festivals, and scour the Teatro Colón’s (see p131) website for news of its free Sunday morning concerts by local performers. If you or a friend has a Movistar mobile number, get free tickets to see live bands with Movistar Free Music (www.movistar. com.ar). Cultural centres, like the Centro Cultural Recoleta (see p120), the new Centro Cultural Kirchner (see p120), and Club Cultural Matienzo (see p129) host a wide range of free events and shows. Catch free tango at La Glorieta (see p133), and glimpse Argentinian art free of charge at the Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes (see p121). And finally, proving that there is such a thing as a free meal, Post Street Bar (Thames 1885) gives away pizza every Thursday from 8.30pm.

With Palermo Soho saturated with bars and restaurants, many spilled across Avenida Juan B Justo into the area known as ‘Palermo Hollywood’ for the number of TV production companies located there. Even more expensive restaurants and a bewildering number of bars are to be found in this zone.

Subte D, Palermo, Plaza Italia/bus 10, 29, 39, 64, 67, 93, 152. Map F3. ! Take five Build your own burger at trendy café Ninina Bakery (see p23).

Belgrano Like Palermo, Belgrano is a large, affluent barrio divided unofficially into several sub-districts. These include Belgrano R, an upscale residential zone characterised by half-timbered houses and cobbled streets; Barrancas de Belgrano, an attractive park on a slope; and BA’s Barrio Chino (Chinatown), located on and around calle Arribeños between Juramento and Blanco Encalada. Belgrano’s main artery is migraine-inducing Avenida Cabildo, dominated by mid-market clothing retailers, particularly shoe shops.

Bus 42, 55, 60, 64, 130. ! Take five Order a cappuccino at All Saints Café (Ciudad de la Paz 2300, 4706 0016).

WEST OF THE CENTRE

The city’s western districts are real-world BA – where ordinary porteños live and work. Abasto is being spruced up and given back some of its tango heritage, while traditional residential barrios like Villa Crespo and Almagro are well worth exploring for their bars and restaurants.

Once & Abasto Once (pronounced ‘ON-say’), west of downtown along Avenida Corrientes, is a hectic commercial district home to many of BA’s Jewish population as well as Korean, Middle Eastern and Peruvian communities.

Just along from Once, at Avenida Corrientes and Anchorena, is the beautiful Mercado de Abasto building, a soaring art deco masterpiece that was built in the 1930s as a wholesale market and later converted into the Abasto de Buenos Aires shopping centre (see p108).

Subte B, Carlos Gardel, Pasteur, Pueyrredón/bus 24, 68, 88, 92, 104, 132, 168, 188, 194. Map D3, E3. ! Take five Sample authentic Korean fare at Bi Won (see p62).

Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015/16 117

Almagro, Caballito & Villa Crespo West of Abasto, these attractive middle-class barrios are often what people mean when they talk about the ‘real’ BA. Parque Centenario, in Caballito, is the main public park for these neighbourhoods and contains the Museo Argentino de Ciencias Naturales Bernardino Rivadavia (see p120). Almagro and Villa Crespo are traditional neighbourhoods increasingly attracting fashionable bars and shops.

Subte A, Castro Barros or B, Ángel Gallardo, Malabia, Medrano/bus 55, 92, 124, 168. Map E1, F1, F2, G1. ! Take five Dig into a hearty salad at Musetta (Billinghurst 894, 4867 4037).

ALONG THE RIVER

Around Town

Beside the brown, silty river, there are plenty of eating, strolling and nature-watching opportunities.

Puerto Madero & Costanera Sur The posh port of Puerto Madero is divided into two promenades: Puerto Madero Oeste (west) and Este (east). On the western side, the Buque Museo Fragata Presidente Sarmiento is a 19th-century frigate built in Birkenhead. It’s now a museum. To its south is the Puente de la Mujer (Woman’s Bridge), a pedestrian swing bridge with a spar-and-cable arc shape.

Further south still lies the Reserva Ecológica Costanera Sur (closed Mon), a popular spot for walking, jogging, cycling and picnicking.

Subte B, LN Alem/bus 26, 61, 93, 152, 159, 195. Map B5, B6. ! Take five Gorge on dry aged beef at Le Grill (see p38).

Whether you want to step back in time with a dose of history, soak up some artistic vibes, glimpse into the lives of the city’s legends or keep the little ones entertained, there’s something to suit all agendas in BA. Some museums have excellent lunch spots; particularly good are the restaurant at the Museo Evita and Croque Madame at the Museo Nacional de Arte Decorativo. Museums devoted to art are listed in the Art section (see p121).

HOW TO USE THE LISTINGS " denotes a museum that is suitable or primarily intended for children. # denotes a museum we particularly recommend.

RETIRO

Museo de Arte Hispanoamericano Isaac Fernández Blanco This baroque-style building houses Spanish-American paintings, religious objects and an important collection of colonial silverware. For an extra AR$10, join the museum’s ‘Ayres de Arte’ walking tour on Wednesdays at 1pm, which takes you down calle Arroyo to check out the surrounding buildings.

Suipacha 1422, entre Arroyo y Avenida del Libertador (4327 0228). Bus 17, 152. Open 1-7pm Tue-Sun. Closed May. Admission AR$10. Free Wed. Map D6.

MONSERRAT AND SAN TELMO

Museo del Bicentenario Tucked behind the Casa Rosada, this museum delivers a heavy hit of pro-Kirchner propaganda. The restored space is in the city’s former fort, and artefacts, artworks, campaign posters and videos are used to explore the nation’s political history. Highlights include the mural Ejército Plástico

118 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015/16

(Plastic Army) by Mexican artist David Siqueiros and the bloodied headscarf of Madres de Plaza de Mayo leader Hebe de Bonafini, following blows she received at a protest rally.

Paseo Colón 100, e Hipólito Yrigoyen (4344 3802/www.museo.gov.ar). Subte A, Plaza de Mayo/bus 29, 129. Open 10am-6pm Wed-Sun. Admission free.

Map C5.

elzanjon.com.ar). Bus 28, 195. Open noon-3pm Mon-Fri (tours on the hour); 1-5pm Sun (tours every 20 mins).

Admission AR$150 Mon-Fri; AR$115 Sun. Map B4.

LA BOCA

Museo de la Pasión Boquense To feel the pasión, visit La Bombonera stadium on a match day. For everything else Boca-related, this museum scores high. There are Museo Histórico Nacional audio-visual gadgets, loads of facts del Cabildo and figures and, of course, tributes to The first steps towards Argentina’s La Boca’s most enduring and independence were taken here, the legendary hero, Diego Maradona. city’s HQ from 1580 to 1821. The Brandsen 805, y la Vía (4362 1100/ austere museum contains items www.museoboquense.com). Bus such as a magnificent gold 10, 24, 70, 74, 86, 93. and silver piece from Open 10am-6pm daily.

Oruro, Bolivia and items Closed on match days. relating to the English Admission AR$100; Learn all about invasions. Behind the museum tour AR$115; Argentina ’s immigrant building is a shaded museum and stadium history at the Hotel de colonial patio and café. tour AR$130 (tours Inmigrantes (Avenida Bolívar 65, entre 11am-6pm on the hour).

Antártida Argentina Avenida de Mayo e Credit AmEx, MC, V. 1355).

Hipólito Yrigoyen (4334 Map A1.

1782/www.cabildonacional.com. ar). Subte A, Plaza de Mayo/bus 28, RECOLETA AND BARRIO NORTE 56, 105. Open 10.30am-5pm Wed-Fri; Museo Nacional de 11.30am-6pm Sat, Sun and public Arte Decorativo holidays. Admission AR$15 by Built in 1911, this grand mansion has a donation. Free Tue. No credit cards. façade incorporating French, Map C5.

Corinthian and Tuscan elements. Its

TOP TIP!

El Zanjón de Granados Part archaeological museum, part event space, El Zanjón encapsulates three centuries of urban living. The façade dates from 1830, but traces from an earlier patrician home – an open-air cistern, a lookout tower and a wall comprised of seashell mortaring – take you back to the era of Spanish settlement. The treasure trove of objects uncovered here includes French tiles and African pipes.

Defensa 755, entre Chile y Avenida Independencia (4361 3002/www.

stunning ballrooms, bedrooms and hallways display more than 4,000 pieces of decorative art. Tours in English are at 2.30pm on weekdays.

Avenida del Libertador 1902, y Pereyra Lucena (4801 8248/www.mnad.org).

Bus 10, 59, 60, 130. Open 2-7pm Tue-Sun. Admission AR$20; tour AR$30. Free Tue. Map F5.

"Museo Participativo de Ciencias ‘Prohibido no tocar’ (‘it’s forbidden not to touch’) is the motto of this science museum, where kids can explore the DIEGO QUIROGA

Costanera Norte & Núñez A traditional promenade thronged with anglers and day trippers contrasts with the domestic airport. To the north is religious theme park Tierra Santa (Avenida Costanera Rafael Obligado 5790, 0800 444 3467, www.tierrasanta. com.ar), the highlight of which is the hourly resurrection of a plastic Jesus.

On the final curve of the Costanera Norte is the Parque de la Memoria.

Developed in remembrance of victims of the 1976-83 military dictatorship, the tasteful memorial park’s centrepiece is a monument consisting of stone tablets bearing the names of the ‘disappeared’, many of whom were thrown from planes to their deaths in the river.

Further west, residential barrio Núñez borders BA province, and is home to River Plate football club and its stadium, Estadio Monumental (see p125). Nearby, is the former ‘ESMA’, the country’s most notorious torture centre during the military dictatorship. The campus was renamed the Espacio para la Memoria y para la Promoción y Defensa de los Derechos Humanos (Avenida del Libertador 8151, 4702 9920, www. espaciomemoria.ar) and transformed into a museum.

Bus 28, 33, 45, 130, 152. Map H6. ! Take five Have a long, lazy lunch at Oporto Almacén (see p68).

Museums

Former president Néstor Kirchner’s legacy lives on at the Centro Cultural Kirchner (see p120)

Around Town Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015/16 119

while on tour. Among the museum’s activities are free tango classes and singing lessons (call to check times).

Jean Jaurès 735, y San Luis (4964 2015/www.museocasacarlosgardel. buenosaires.gob.ar). Subte B, Carlos Gardel/bus 24, 26, 194. Open 11am-6pm Mon, Wed-Fri; 10am-7pm Sat, Sun and public holidays.

Admission AR$5. Free Wed. Map E3.

CABALLITO

Museo Participativo de Ciencias

Around Town

Kid-friendly BA In BA, children are generally made to feel welcome anytime, anywhere so nobody will bat an eyelid at toddlers dining out after 10pm. Seeking out specifically ‘family-friendly’ restaurants can mean compromising on the quality of your meal, though an exception is Garbis (Lerma 1, 4866 4000, www.garbis.com.ar), which has tasty Middle Eastern food (fussy eaters can opt for pasta or steak and chips) and play areas. Alternatively, recharge your batteries at Palermo café Quinta Estación (Jorge Luis Borges 2055, 4833 6575, www.quintaestacion.com.ar) while the kids paint and play in a well-equipped, supervised space. For all-day entertainment, pack a picnic and hit Parque Centenario (see p118): besides playgrounds, a lake and plenty of grass, the park is home to the Museo Argentino de Ciencias Naturales (see right). If it’s a scorching day, riverfront Parque de los Niños (Avenida Intendente Cantilo y Avenida General Paz) hosts water games in summer. The excellent Museo de los Niños (www.museodelosninos.org.ar), located in the Abasto shopping centre (see p108), is geared towards children of all ages and features a spacious soft-play sector, mini theatre, reading room and the opportunity for role-play in areas like the mini TV studio; and at the Museo Participativo de Ciencias (see p118), kids are actively encouraged to touch the science-centric exhibits. Pick up original children’s accessories and toys at STU (Montevideo 1788, 4812 8206, www.smilingtounlock.com), or cute clothing at Pesqueira (see p104).

natural sciences. Themed rooms include ‘no me mates matemática’ (don’t kill me, maths) and ‘la mesa está servida’ (dinner is served).

1st floor, Centro Cultural Recoleta, Junín 1930, y Quintana, (4807 3260/ www.mpc.org.ar). Bus 17, 37, 59, 60, 61, 62, 67, 130. Open 3.30-7.30pm Tue-Sun. Admission AR$65; free under-4s. No credit cards. Map E5.

"Museo Xul Solar This museum-cum-gallery contains a collection of esoteric objects and quirky art by the city’s most eccentric, self-proclaimed visionary: the sailor-turned-painter, astrologer, mathematician, writer and philologist Oscar Agustín Alejandro Schulz Solari (1887-1963), known as Xul Solar. Tours are on Tuesdays and Thursdays at 4pm and Saturdays at 3.30pm.

Laprida 1212, y Mansilla (4824 3302/ www.xulsolar.org.ar). Subte D, Agüero/ bus 12, 39, 68, 111. Open noon-8pm Mon-Fri; noon-7pm Sat. Admission AR$20. Map E4.

PALERMO

"Museo de Arte Popular José Hernández This museum’s well-curated collection comprises elements from Argentina’s rural past, including maté gourds, spurs, knives and other assorted gaucho paraphernalia.

Avenida del Libertador 2373, y San Martín de Tours (4803 2384/www. museohernandez.buenosaires.gob.ar).

Bus 10, 37, 59. Open 1-7pm Tue-Fri; 10am-8pm Sat, Sun and public holidays. Admission AR$10. Free Wed. Map F5.

Museo Evita Housed in an aristocratic residence that Perón expropriated to convert into a women’s shelter for his wife’s quasistatal welfare agency, this museum is worth a visit if only to see the range of myths Evita inspires in Argentina.

There are paintings, posters and busts, as well as outfits and her libreta cívica (ID card), number 0.000.001. Guided tours are available for groups of five or more people if reserved in advance.

Lafinur 2988, y Gutiérrez (4807 9433/ www.museoevita.org). Subte D, Plaza Italia/bus 37, 188. Open 11am-7pm Tue-Sun. Admission AR$50; with guided tour AR$90. Map G4.

ONCE AND ABASTO

Museo Casa Carlos Gardel A tribute to one of the 20th century’s greatest exponents of popular song, the Gardel museum – once Carlos Gardel’s Abasto home – preserves and exhibits various items that either belonged to, or were connected with, the tango legend who tragically died young in a plane crash in Colombia

120 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015/16

!Museo Argentino de Ciencias Naturales Bernardino Rivadavia This natural history museum, set in Caballito’s lovely Parque Centenario, is thrilling for children who are dotty for dinosaurs. The museum’s star skeleton belongs to a carnotaurus – the ‘bad guy’ in Disney’s Dinosaur.

Avenida Ángel Gallardo 470, y Marechal (4982 6595/www.macn.gov. ar). Subte B, Ángel Gallardo/bus 15, 55, 124, 135, 141, 146. Open 2-7pm daily. Admission AR$15; free under-6s. Map F1.

Cultural centres

BA’s centros culturales hold many of the city’s best events and shows.

LOCAL CULTURE

The Centro Cultural Borges (Galerías Pacífico, Viamonte 525, y San Martín, 5555 5450, www.ccborges.org. ar) has an eclectic programme of indie cinema and experimental theatre.

Admission is free at the Centro Cultural Recoleta (Junín 1930, 4803 1040, www.centroculturalrecoleta.org), which hosts exhibitions and live music, while over in the centre of town, the new Centro Cultural Kirchner (Sarmiento 151, 6841 6400, www. culturalkirchner.gob.ar) hosts free exhibitions, theatre shows and more.

The Centro Cultural Ricardo Rojas (Avenida Corrientes 2038, 4952 7281, www.rojas.uba.ar) stages experimental theatre. At the Centro Cultural San Martín (Sarmiento 1551, 4374 1251, www.ccgsm.gov.ar), there’s independent theatre and dance, and workshops in video, cinema, music and visual arts. Gigs and workshops are held at Almagro’s Club Cultural Matienzo (Pringles 1249, 6610 1520, ccmatienzo.com.ar).

INTERNATIONAL

The French language institution Alianza Francesa (Avenida Córdoba 936, 4322 0068, www.alianzafrancesa. org.ar) screens international cinema.

For plays, films and TV shows in English, visit the British Arts Centre in Retiro (Suipacha 1333, 4393 2004, www.britishartscentre.org.ar).

The Centro Cultural de España (Florida 943, 4312 3214, www.cceba.org. ar) focuses on Spanish and Argentinian digital art, while at the Goethe Institute (Avenida Corrientes 319, 4318 5600, www.goethe.de/buenosaires), a sometimes edgy programme of events is complemented by German videos, plus a language institute.

Tour selector 5 Stars of Argentina www.5-stars-of-argentina.com A luxurious day sampling the best of Argentina’s wine, meat, tango, polo and gaucho culture. US$220.

Anda Travel www.andatravel.com Socially responsible tours that benefit the wider community. From AR$569.

Anuva Wines www.anuvawines.com Excellent wines are served at these Palermo wine tastings led by friendly sommeliers. US$52.

BA Free Tour www.bafreetour.com Proving the best things in life can be free, BA Free Tour offers guided walks of the centre, Recoleta and Retiro.

Tips appreciated.

Biking Buenos Aires www.bikingbuenosaires.com Fun, informative guides show you the city on two wheels. From US$60.

Buenos Aires Local Tours www.buenosaireslocaltours.com Travel by bus and Subte as an Englishspeaking guide tells you all about the city. By donation.

The Buenos Aires Pub Crawl www.buenosairespubcrawl.com A night of debauchery in BA’s hottest bars and clubs. US$25.

Circuito Papal circuitopapal@buenosaires.gob.ar A free tour dedicated to all things Pope Francis, either by bus or on foot.

Cultour www.cultour.com.ar View the impact of Argentina’s past on its present with the free Traces walking tour. Other tours are available from AR$150.

Eternautas www.eternautas.com Knowledgeable historians lead exceptional expeditions across the city.

Specialist tours focus on politics, art and the Jewish population in BA. From US$380 for a group of four people.

Foto Ruta www.foto-ruta.com Learn the art of street photography while exploring different neighbourhoods. From US$45.

Parrilla Tour BA www.parrillatour.com Discover authentic steakhouses on this culinary tour of the city. US$69.

Tangol www.tangol.com Tours around the city including trips to football matches and tango shows.

From AR$180.

Shop Hop BA www.shop-buenosaires.com Friendly British expat Sophie Lloyd runs customised shopping trips for all styles and budgets. From US$45.

For tours and day trips outside the city, see Getting Away (p150).

MACBA The slick, glass-fronted Museo de Arte Contemporáneo de Buenos Aires (MACBA) opened in late 2012, with an exhibition of abstract geometrical art plucked straight from the private collection of the museum’s Argentinian benefactor, Aldo Rubino. Situated next door to MAMbA (see below) and now hosting live music and children’s events, the four-storey space is an exciting player in San Telmo’s ever-growing art district.

Avenida San Juan 328, entre Defensa y Balcarce, San Telmo (5299 2012/www. macba.com.ar). Bus 4, 8, 10, 17, 20, 22, 24, 28, 29, 33, 53, 61, 93, 130.

Open noon-7pm Mon, Wed-Fri; 11am-7.30pm Sat, Sun. Admission AR$50; AR$30 Wed. Map A4.

Art

‘Floresta’ (Diego de Aduriz at Mite, see p122)

The scene Though Buenos Aires has its share of stately art institutions like the Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes, the MALBA (see right) and high-end galleries like Rubbers (see p122), the local art scene is surprisingly accessible.

Those intimidated by traditional art spaces might find solace in laid-back galleries like Ruby (see p123) and Galería Mar Dulce (see p122), which sell works by young and emerging artists at a variety of price points.

The stars of the local art scene, however, remain the street artists who are turning the city into a public art gallery one block at a time. See their work in a more traditional space at Galería UNION (see p122) or the newly-opened street art gallery Galería Vault (Nicaragua 6002, mobile 3564 9988), located inside a bar. Alternatively, view the pieces in their natural habitat with excellent street art tours from graffitimundo (see p123) or BA Street Art (www.buenosairesstreetart. com). You can also learn all about the inspiration behind the urban art brightening up the city’s Subte stations with our feature on page 112.

Major institutions Colección de Arte Amalia Lacroze de Fortabat The private treasure trove of the late Amalia Lacroze de Fortabat, once Argentina’s wealthiest woman, is housed in a stunning glass and steel

airplane hangar-type edifice on Puerto Madero’s supremely modern and upscale waterfront. The collection of both Argentinian and international works includes the psychologically complex paintings of Carlos Alonso and the highly versatile work of the painter of the people, Antonio Berni.

Don’t miss the Dalí, Turner or Brueghel pieces, or Warhol’s silkscreen of Amalia Lacroze de Fortabat herself.

Guided tours are available daily at 3pm and 5pm.

Olga Cossettini 141, Puerto Madero (4310 6600/www.coleccionfortabat.org. ar). Subte B, LN Alem/bus 74, 126, 129, 140, 180. Open noon-8pm Tue-Sun. Admission AR$30-$60.

Map B5. !Fundación Proa This institution provides you with a reason to go to La Boca that doesn’t involve paying to have your photo taken with a sleazy tango hustler. The phenomenal Proa is flourishing in its stunning waterfront building, just off the tourist hub of Caminito, and features industrial exhibition spaces, the city’s best art library and bookstore, and a third-floor gourmet café. With a gravitational pull strong enough to reel in international names (artists like Mona Hatoum), as well as some of BA’s biggest exhibitions, Proa packs a full schedule, complete with related film cycles, lectures and innovative theatrical productions.

Avenida Pedro de Mendoza 1929, entre Magallanes y Rocha, La Boca (4104 1000/www.proa.org). Bus 8, 20, 25, 29, 33, 46, 53, 64, 86, 152. Open 11am-7pm Tue-Sun. Admission AR$40. Map A1.

!MALBA With ambitious exhibitions and a manageable size, all signs point to the futuristic MALBA as the best museum in the city: Frida Kahlo, Diego Rivera, Guillermo Kuitca, Grete Stern and friends fill the walls. Look out for Pablo Reinoso’s inspired use of gallery space with the Intervención series of installations, in which the benches taper off to become larger-than-life spaghetti looping across the walls. Like the permanent collection, regularly changing temporary exhibitions feature the best of contemporary and cutting-edge Latin American art. There’s also an excellent café, well-stocked gift shop and cinema specialising in arthouse retrospectives.

Avenida Figueroa Alcorta 3415, entre Salguero y San Martín de Tours, Palermo (4808 6500/www.malba.org. ar). Bus 37, 67, 92, 110, 128, 130.

Open noon-8pm Mon, Thu-Sun; noon-9pm Wed. Admission AR$75; AR$36 Wed. Map F5.

MAMbA A key player on the BA art circuit, MAMbA – the Museo de Arte Moderno de Buenos Aires – has some 7,000 works in its collection. The pieces span movements in Argentinian art from the 1920s to the present day, with notable works by Xul Solar, Marta Minujín and Antonio Berni.

Avenida San Juan 350, entre Defensa y Balcarce, San Telmo (4342 3001/www. museodeartemoderno.buenosaires.gov. ar). Bus 10, 29, 33, 64, 74, 126. Open 11am-7pm Tue-Fri; 11am-8pm Sat, Sun. Admission AR$20. Free Tue. Map A4.

Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes Offering an impressive view of the traditional side of art, the MNBA has 24 rooms, sculpture patios, an architecture display, studios, a library and an auditorium. The country’s largest collection of 19th- and 20th-century Argentinian art is housed here, with pieces by masters such as Eduardo Sívori, Antonio Berni and Guillermo Kuitca on display; and the international collection includes works by some of the biggest names in European art like El Greco, Rubens, Rembrandt and Goya. Temporary exhibitions keep things fresh and free tours are available in English,

Portuguese and Spanish. See the website for details.

Avenida del Libertador 1473, y Pueyrredón, Recoleta (5288 9914/ www.mnba.gob.ar). Bus 92, 93, 95, 102, 108, 130. Open 11.30am-7.30pm Tue-Fri; 9.30am-8.30pm Sat, Sun. Admission free. Map E5.

Palais de Glace French speakers won’t have to guess the original function of this elegant belle époque building; Palais de Glace, which opened its doors to skaters in 1910, means ‘Ice Palace’. Today, the palace is suitably grand for its diverse roster of large-scale paintings, photography, engravings, sculptures and video installations.

Posadas 1725, y Schiaffino, Recoleta (4804 1163/www.palaisdeglace.gob.ar).

Bus 17, 60, 67, 92, 102, 110, 130.

Open noon-8pm Tue-Fri; 10am-8pm Sat, Sun. Admission free. Map E5.

Galleries Centre

CONTEMPORARY

Ignacio Liprandi Arte Contemporáneo Argentinian collector Ignacio Liprandi has his finger firmly on the pulse of cutting-edge local and Latin American conceptual art, plucking stars from the likes of London’s Tate Modern and New York’s MoMA to show in his third-floor gallery with head-on views of the grandiose Congreso building.

Rotating exhibitions have a multimedia bent, showcasing some of the most talked-about – and controversial – artists on the circuit.

Level 3, left, Avenida de Mayo 1480, entre Uruguay y Paraná, Congreso (4381 0679/www.ignacioliprandi.com).

Subte A, Sáenz Peña/bus 8, 39, 60, 64, 67, 86, 102, 129. Open noon-7.30pm Mon-Fri. Map C4.

Zavaleta Lab The creative laboratory of local art impresario Hernán Zavaleta effectively bridges the gap between the neighbourhood’s contemporary hotspots and their downright dusty older counterparts. Zavaleta’s eye for innovation ensures a consistent turnout of solid exhibitions by both up-andcomers and local art darlings.

Paintings, which tend to favour clean lines and solid colours, gleam from the walls of the broad white gallery space.

Office 12, 2nd floor, Defensa 269, entre Alsina y Moreno, Monserrat (4589 5315/www.zavaletalab.com). Subte A, Plaza de Mayo/bus 10, 17, 86, 195.

Open 11am-6pm Mon-Fri. Map B4.

San Telmo and La Boca CONTEMPORARY

POPA A hedonistic spirit pervades this house just off La Boca’s Caminito tourist strip, where director Marcelo

Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015/16 121

Mastering the arts CREATE YOUR OWN SOUVENIRS AT THESE ARTS AND CRAFTS COURSES Jewellery making at Julia Alvarez y Catalina Semilla At this charming showroom and workshop, you’ll learn basic jewellery making techniques before starting your own project. Ask about one-day courses.

AR$600 per month. See p109.

Bookbinding at Oficina de Arte Argentino Choose from a range of techniques to bind your own notebook at this half-day class. Other courses include tapestry and stamp making. AR$350. Local 40, Galería Patio del Liceo (see p96).

Art

Embroidery at Espacio Fauna Sign up for this four-hour workshop, and come away having mastered the ten basic stitches you’ll need to embroider your own creations. The space also offers classes in origami, crochet and a range of other arts and crafts. AR$350. Address provided at time of booking, Almagro (espaciofauna@ gmail.com).

Screen printing at La Calor Create your own designs and print them onto fabric and T-shirts at this four-and-ahalf-hour course on the art of serigrafía (screen printing). AR$400. Local 50, Galería Patio del Liceo (see p96).

Drawing with Sofía Wiñazki Refine your drawing technique with artist Sofía Wiñazki, who teaches small group classes at her studio in Palermo. AR$500 per month. Address provided at time of booking, Palermo (sofiwini@gmail.com).

Bosco likes his art out, loud and proud. Mixed media works run the gamut with the sublime to the shocking, from sculptures exploring S&M to photographs bordering on pornography. Exhibition openings at this hip gallery are schmoozy, upmarket affairs.

Lamadrid 882, entre Garibaldi y Carlos F Melo, La Boca (4302 7244/www. galeriapopa.com.ar). Bus 64, 86, 93, 102. Open 2-8pm Thu-Sat; or by appt.

Map A1.

Pasaje Bollini 2170, entre French y Peña, Recoleta (4804 8247/www. abategaleria.com). Bus 10, 37, 110, 118, 128. Open 11am-5pm Mon-Fri, call in advance. Map F4.

Arenales 1311, entre Uruguay y Talcahuano, Recoleta (4813 8639/www. praxis-art.com). Bus 10, 108, 111, 152. Open 10.30am-7.30pm Mon-Fri; 10.30am-2pm Sat. Map D5.

Mite One of a handful of galleries located inside the trendy Galería Patio del Liceo (see p96), Mite features a rotating cast of seven contemporary artists, who create fresh work such as paint and Sharpie-doctored newsprint and photographic stills inspired by old black-and-white films. After you’ve had your inspiration fix, seize the chance to drop by art bookstore Purr Libros on the ground floor.

Unit 30, 1st floor, Avenida Santa Fe 2729, entre Laprida y Anchorena, Barrio Norte (4822 9433/www. mitegaleria.com.ar). Subte D, Agüero/ bus 12, 39, 64. Open 2-8pm Tue-Fri; by appt Sat. Map E4.

Galería Isabel Anchorena For the more traditional side of BA’s art output, head over to Isabel Anchorena, a superbly curated Recoleta gallery that displays the two- and three-dimensional works of over 30 solid, schooled artists.

Having made strong showings at past events like the São Paulo Art Biennial and ArteBA fairs, the gallery has switched its focus to exhibiting here at its home base.

Libertad 1389, entre Juncal y Arroyo, Recoleta (4811 3959/www.galeria isabelanchorena.com). Bus 67, 92, 93, 130. Open 11am-8pm Mon-Fri; 11am-3pm Sat. Map D5.

Pasto Galería This gallery’s young crew presents a roster of emerging artists working mostly in small-format (and accessibly priced) painting, drawing, installation and photography. Friendly director César Abelenda will gladly help guide you through the underground arts scene. The bright space is a collaboration between Pasto and Luciana Massarino’s Studio 448.

Pereyra Lucena 2589, y Pagano, Recoleta (4804 3060/www.pastogaleria. com.ar). Bus 10, 37, 59, 60, 67, 92, 95, 110, 128, 130. Open 2-7pm Tue-Sat. Map F5. !Praxis With a sister gallery in New York, Praxis has serious international reach and today is one of the driving forces in promoting contemporary Argentinian art abroad. Major collectors come to the four-storey gallery to view the latest works by emerging and established artists, and to browse the extensive stock, which features abstract designs with high conceptual backing by artists like Pablo Lozano and García Mar.

Recoleta and Barrio Norte CONTEMPORARY

!Daniel Abate Infamous for keeping even the most exclusive collectors on their toes, this surprisingly compact gallery, situated in a house along a lovely back lane in Recoleta, is a prime destination on show opening nights. Keep your eyes peeled for hot young artist types, porteño socialites, journalists and the dashing, dickie-bowed Daniel Abate himself. Abate has, among his many other feats, taught Buenos Aires that contemporary art can be red-carpet glam, so dress to impress or you’re better off staying home (we speak from experience).

Spot street artists at work with graffitimundo’s tours

122 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015/16

CLASSIC

Galería Rubbers As you might imagine from the gallery that hosted Andy Warhol’s first Latin American exhibition in 1966, only the most upmarket names in art make it into Rubbers, which is more of an art maestro’s hall of fame than your average gallery. The venue displays a diverse range of works by household names like Antonio Seguí and Xul Solar, the quirky artist-inventor whose work gave the gallery clout during its infancy in the late 1950s. For an insight into Solar’s fascinating world, check out the Museo Xul Solar (see p120).

Avenida Alvear 1595, y Montevideo, Recoleta (4816 1864/www.rubbers.com. ar). Bus 17, 67, 110, 124, 130, 152.

Open 11am-8pm Mon-Fri; 11am1.30pm Sat. Map D5.

Palermo CONTEMPORARY

Elsi del Río This spirited contemporary space is smack bang in the nucleus of Palermo’s trendy art scene. The cast of characters under director Fernando Entin is influenced by everything from

graffiti to Japanese art. Exhibitions change every six weeks, with live music and hipsters a regular feature of inauguration parties.

Humboldt 1510, entre Cabrera y Gorriti (4899 0171/www.elsidelrio.com. ar). Bus 34, 39, 55, 140. Open 1-7pm Tue-Fri; 11am-3pm Sat. Map H2.

Galería Mar Dulce Expect to see simple, colourful paintings, drawings, collages, giclée prints, embroidery and photographs by multi-talented artists, like illustrator and pop singer Isol at this gallery. Mar Dulce focuses on small-format works, many of which are well-priced.

Exhibitions at this gallery, such as ‘+Collective’, show work from established artists like Daniel Santoro as well as emerging talents. More like a stylish friend’s apartment than your typical art gallery, the atmosphere is warm and intimate.

Uriarte 1490, entre Gorriti y Cabrera (mobile 15 5319 3597/www.galeria mardulce.blogspot.com). Bus 39, 55, 93, 108, 168. Open 3-8pm Tue-Sat. Map G2.

Galería UNION Tired of always roaming the streets of Buenos Aires (although that is what they do best), the people at graffitimundo have found themselves a little place to call home. And though the gallery is now enjoying its fixed address in Palermo, it’s still dedicated to its graffiti roots. Admire the temporary exhibitions, which include works by street art big dogs like Cabaio Spirito, or choose from a range of affordable prints, T-shirts and even a graffitied skateboard to take home with you.

Costa Rica 5929, y Ravignani (mobile 15 3683 3219/www.galeriaunion.com).

Bus 39, 57, 93, 95, 108, 111, 168.

Open 1-5pm Mon-Fri, call in advance.

Map H3.

Hollywood in Cambodia Graffiti: you’ve seen the work plastered all over the city and may even recognise some of the styles. Now you can put names to images at this gallery, run by a ‘collective of collectives’ comprising some of the big names in Buenos Aires graffiti, like Pum Pum and Rundontwalk. Entering the gallery requires passing through the equally festooned Post Street bar downstairs, so grab a bottle and a couple of glasses and head up to the heavily tagged terrace. For more fun, learn the tricks of the trade in a stencil workshop with local artists or sign up for a tour on foot or by bike with street art experts graffitimundo (see right).

1st floor, Thames 1885, entre Costa Rica y Nicaragua (www. hollywoodincambodia.com.ar). Bus 29, 34, 39, 55, 60, 93, 108, 140, 151.

Open 5-9pm Thu-Sun. Map G3.

Nora Fisch Leave reality at the door and enter a world that resembles a David Lynch set.

New York-educated owner Nora Fisch prefers to deck out her space with mixed media pieces that lie at the extreme end

of the conceptual scale. Every torn bit of paper, carefully mounted piece of cardboard or arrangement of lines is meant to say something, and it does so elegantly. Fisch also delights in explaining her works.

Avenida Córdoba 5222, entre Uriarte y Godoy Cruz (mobile 15 6235 2030/ www.norafisch.com). Bus 19, 34, 39, 55, 90, 127, 140. Open 12.30-6.30pm Tue-Fri. Map G2.

Thames This luminous space has more than 30, mostly local and mostly female, artists on its books. The large canvasses stretching down the corridor tend to feature the application of colour in bright, bold patches and jagged streaks.

Thames 1776, entre Costa Rica y El Salvador (4832 1968/www.galeria thames.com.ar). Bus 34, 166. Open 2-8pm Tue-Fri; 2-6pm Sat. Map G3.

CLASSIC

Villa Crespo CONTEMPORARY

!Arte x Arte With 1200 sq m at its disposal, Arte x Arte lays claim to being BA’s largest art gallery. Its exhibitions, of which there are half a dozen a year, are dedicated solely to photography, video and new media, and attract big names from both home and abroad, creating a space for continual exchange between Argentina and the rest of the world.

Lavalleja 1062, entre Lerma y Argañarás (4772 6754/www.galeria artexarte.com). Bus 15, 19, 36, 57, 90, 92, 99, 110. Open 1.30-8pm Tue-Fri. Map F2.

Gachi Prieto Boundary-busting director Gachi Prieto continues to keep the art scene guessing with her roll call of 24 (mostly local) artists. With nine exhibitions a year self-consciously setting a course for contemporary Latin American art, expect to find everything from monochrome video projections, to artisanal collections of objects and photo manipulations.

Aguirre 1017, entre Uriarte y Thames (4774 6656/www.gachiprietogallery. com). Bus 19, 34, 55, 65, 71, 76, 90, 127, 140, 151, 166. Open 2-7pm MonFri. Map G1.

Colegiales CONTEMPORARY

Ruby Galería Owner Irana curates the perfect mix of forward-thinking but accessible art at her gallery on a leafy Colegiales street.

The main space is dedicated to a rotating set of exhibitions, but there is always an eclectic mix of homeware items like locally made ceramics, small-press books and affordable etchings by Fábrica de Estampas. Keep an eye on Ruby’s Facebook page for information on upcoming openings featuring young artists and DJs. Céspedes 3065, y Freire (mobile 15 5751 7547/www.galeriaruby.com.ar).

Bus 42, 63. Open 3-7.30pm Wed-Sat.

Art

Daniel Maman Fine Arts New work rubs shoulders with pieces by renowned Argentinian stars including Antonio Berni and Guillermo Roux in this gallery, conveniently situated among the major art museums of Palermo Chico. Get dolled up and drop by this glitzy show space on an exhibition’s opening night, when all the big names in the art world come out to see fresh talent.

Avenida del Libertador 2475, entre Bulnes y Ruggieri (4804 3700/www. danielmaman.com). Bus 10, 37, 41, 59, 60, 67, 92, 93, 95, 110, 128, 130.

Open 11am-8pm Mon-Fri; 11am-3pm Sat. Map F5.

CLASSIC

!Ruth Benzacar BA’s first stop for collectors is porteño art doña Orly Benzacar’s gallery, which recently relocated from downtown to Villa Crespo, and is among the most highly regarded galleries in town.

Benzacar has well and truly conquered Buenos Aires with her healthy catalogue of fresh-faced art faces and an afternoon spent trawling around the gallery is a sure-fire way to take in some of the city’s top work.

Juan Ramírez de Velasco 1287, y Humboldt (4313 8480/www. ruthbenzacar.com). Subte B, Dorrego/ bus 42, 55, 90, 127. Open 2-7pm Mon-Fri. Map H1.

Art tours Artists’ Atelier Tours

These tours around artists’ studios are a great way to get under the skin of BA’s art scene and see process as well as product. The fee is US$100, and there’s a 2-for-1 offer for Time Out readers. The owner also rents out an artisticallyrestored Palermo house. www.arttour.com.ar

Buenos Aires Art Tours

Learn all about the cultural, social and political background of BA’s most bohemian barrio on the San Telmo Art and History Tour – a three-hour walking tour of the area’s architecture and street art.

Other tours include the Palermo Gallery Walk, which is exactly what it sounds. Tours are led by knowledgeable, bilingual guides and cost from US$40. www.buenosairesarttours.com

graffitimundo

At graffitimundo, hands-down experts in all things street art, friendly bilingual guides steer you around the colourfully sprayed streets of BA on a three-hour tour, which costs from US$25 per person. On Sundays there are graffiti tours on two wheels with Biking Buenos Aires (www. bikingbuenosaires.com) for US$45. www.graffitimundo.com

Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015/16 123

K&S FILMS

TV

While cable TV is popular and offers Hollywood films, sports and subtitled US sitcoms, if your language skills are up to it, there are some Spanish-language shows worth tuning in to on public television. Cable channel Canal á is a useful way into the local arts scene, and sensationalist news channel Crónica TV has to be seen to be (dis)believed.

Film & Media

The web

El clan, released in 2015, had the highest-grossing opening weekend of any Argentinian film in history

The basics

At a glance it may appear as though Argentinian media is entirely steeped in American culture; local cinemas screen Hollywood blockbusters and TV stations constantly play reruns of beloved US sitcoms. But look a little deeper (and brush up on your Spanish) and you’ll see there’s much more on offer than dubbed superhero films.

Get to know Argentinian cinema at BAFICI (see p8), or explore BA’s classic bookstores along Avenida Corrientes. If you can’t get past the language barrier, keep up with local news and culture through English-language publications like the Buenos Aires Herald (www. buenosairesherald.com).

Cinemas

New releases, from blockbusters to arthouse flicks, are shown widely. The MALBA (see p121) hosts excellent cinema events and lectures. The Alianza Francesa, British Arts Centre, Centro Cultural de la Cooperación, Centro Cultural Matienzo and Centro Cultural Ricardo Rojas (see p120) all screen films, while Teatro Nacional Cervantes (see p131) shows classic Argentinian films for free on Wednesdays at 6pm.

INFO, TIMINGS AND TICKETS Children’s films are usually dubbed, but original versions are shown as well at selected times and venues. Some cinemas offer late-night shows (trasnoches), and cheaper tickets can be had from Mondays to Wednesdays and at daytime showings.

CONGRESO & TRIBUNALES

Buenos Aires Mon Amour What was once a bijou 38-seater and secret cinema club and is now a fully-fledged cinema open to the public.

It shows independent films and is run as a non-profit venture by a pair of local film-lovers who also offer cine courses at another location close by.

Avenida Roque Sáenz Peña 1150, y Lavalle, Tribunales (4382 7934/www.

cineclubmonamour.com). Subte B, Carlos Pellegrini/bus 10, 17, 29, 100, 109, 140. Open from 1pm daily.

Tickets AR$50-$60. No credit cards. Map D4.

Espacio INCAA KM 0 – Gaumont Rivadavia This cinema is supported by the local film institute, and screens independent Argentinian releases. It also has heavily subsidised prices, making it one of the cheapest cinemas around.

Avenida Rivadavia 1635, y Montevideo (4382 0003/www.espacios.incaa.gov.ar).

Subte A, Congreso/bus 8, 37, 60, 64, 90, 151, 168. Open noon-midnight daily. Tickets AR$4-$8. No credit cards. Map D4.

Lorca An excellent option for contemporary indie flicks, Lorca also pays homage to the great films of the golden era: Bergman and Fellini retrospectives are permanent fixtures.

Avenida Corrientes 1428, y Uruguay (4371 5017). Subte B, Uruguay/bus 24, 26, 102. Open 1.30-11pm daily.

Tickets AR$40-$50. No credit cards. Map D4.

PUERTO MADERO

Cinemark This modern complex in an upmarket barrio shows the latest Hollywood and Latin American releases. As it’s in a more business-oriented neighbourhood, it’s usually fairly empty.

Alicia Moreau de Justo 1920, y Avenida San Juan (0800 222 2463/www.cine mark.com.ar). Bus 4, 62, 64. Open from 11am daily. Tickets AR$55-$98.

Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map B5.

Other locations Beruti 3399, Palermo; Avenida La Plata 96, Caballito.

RECOLETA

Atlas Patio Bullrich The city’s most exclusive shopping centre shows local films and US hits.

Avenida del Libertador 750, entre Montevideo y Libertad (www.atlascines. com.ar). Bus 60, 61, 62, 67. Open from 10am daily. Tickets AR$45-$90.

Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map E6.

124 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015/16

Village Recoleta This cinema in Recoleta Mall (see p98) shows the latest blockbuster flicks.

Vicente López 2050, entre Uriburu y Junín (0810 810 2463/www.village cines.com). Bus 10, 108. Open from 11am daily. Tickets AR$75-$105.

Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map E5.

Other location Avenida Rivadavia 5071, Caballito.

ABASTO

Hoyts Abasto Buenos Aires This massive 12-theatre shopping centre cinema screens new releases and is packed at the weekends.

Abasto shopping centre, Avenida Corrientes 3247, y Anchorena (5238 2700/www.hoyts.com.ar). Subte B, Carlos Gardel/bus 24, 26, 124. Open from 10am daily. Tickets AR$54-$100.

Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map E3.

ALMAGRO

Cine Club Eco Find Bergman retrospectives and more obscure international films here. Entry includes a post-screening discussion.

2nd floor, Avenida Corrientes 4940, entre Lavalleja y Julián Álvarez (4854 4126). Subte B, Malabia/bus 24, 36, 55.

Open 8pm Sat (reservations essential).

Tickets AR$50 suggested donation.

No credit cards. Map F1.

Radio

Tune in to local radio for informative talk shows or check out the indie sounds on Urbana (89.5 FM), Rock & Pop (95.9 FM) and community station Radio La Tribu (88.7 FM).

Listen to contemporary rock nacional on Mega (98.3 FM), and tango on La 2x4 (92.7 FM) or Malena (89.1 FM).

La Mañana con Víctor Hugo (Radio Continental, 590 AM) is hosted by ex-football-commentator Víctor Hugo Morales, and serves current affairs and football chat. BA Cast (www.bacast.com) is a weekly podcast in ‘Spanglish’ aimed squarely at the expat community. Vorterix Rock (103.1 FM) streams music from many of the bands that play at Teatro Vorterix (see p130).

The city’s official tourism site www. bue.gob.ar/en includes useful information like maps and guides to what’s on around town. Festivales de Buenos Aires (www.festivales.gob.ar) is another good way to stay in the loop about BA’s non-stop festivities.

Foreigners provide insight into the local culture at The Real Argentina (www.therealargentina.com) and Argentine Soccer (www. argentinesoccer.com) keeps score on the national obsession. Englishlanguage site The Bubble (www. bubblear.com) serves local news and culture with a critical bite, and also has a weekly podcast.

Vuenoz Aires (www.vuenosairez. com) is a solid resource for the latest cultural events, as are Spanish-language magazine Wipe (www.wipe.com.ar) and English-language lifestyle blog My Beautiful Air (www.mybeautifulair. com). Literary buffs will enjoy bilingual magazine The Buenos Aires Review (www.buenosairesreview.org), while food fans will love wildly popular Englishlanguage blog Pick Up the Fork (www.pickupthefork.com). In Spanish, Planeta Joy (www.planetajoy.com) has its finger firmly on the pulse of the gastronomic scene.

The secret’s out When Argentinian film El secreto de sus ojos won the Oscar for Best Foreign Language Film in 2010, Hollywood pricked up its ears. Warner Bros. optioned the story for a US remake that same year and by 2011 Denzel Washington and Gwyneth Paltrow were in talks for the starring roles.

The Secret in Their Eyes will finally be released in November 2015, starring Julia Roberts, Chiwetel Ejiofor and Nicole Kidman. But it still faces the challenge of adapting this very Argentinian story to the US – the new film is set in Los Angeles and centres on the murder of Roberts’s daughter, while the original follows an unresolved murder case before and after Argentina’s Dirty War (1974-83).

Hollywood has twice attempted remakes of Argentinian films with little success.

Criminal, the 2004 remake of Nueve reinas, was both a commercial and critical flop. In 2002, Adam Sandler purchased the rights to El hijo de la novia only for the project to remain on the drawing board until his rights to the material expired, for which the world of cinema (and the world in general) can let out a sigh of relief.

Keep your fingers crossed that Hollywood’s version of The Secret in Their Eyes will prove the third time’s a charm.

FOTO RUTA

Fitness & Sports

between the smaller teams around the city. Prices for the rowdy popular area are set at AR$120, but most clubs tack on an extra AR$50-$90 in an attempt to make some money. The cost of the platea seats depends on the popularity of the given club, and ranges from AR$170 to AR$800.

Don’t take valuables to any football match, and keep your wits about you for occasional instances of violence, which are mostly restricted to the popular areas.

Estadio Alberto J Armando (La Bombonera) Watching a game here is a unique experience: come kick-off, a cacophony of fireworks and abuse greets players and refs, and even if you’re not a fully fledged footie fan, it’s hard not to be moved by the spectacle. The platea baja in the stands area is your recommended vantage point. Popular tickets will put you in with the hardcore fans: in this case, not a particularly safe place to be. Neither is the area around the stadium, so leave valuables at home and avoid walking around the area unnecessarily.

Brandsen 805, y la Vía, La Boca (4309 4700/www.bocajuniors.com.ar). Bus 10, 29, 53, 64. Map B1.

Porteños get active in the Bosques de Palermo (see p117)

The essentials

Argentina may be synonymous with football, but it isn’t just the beautiful game that gets local hearts racing. The international CrossFit craze continues to inspire porteños to get in shape, and the city’s green spaces are full of people exercising their right to engage in an array of outdoor pursuits.

Bolstered by a bike lending scheme and new and improved cycle paths, cycling is more popular than ever, and an increasing number of porteños are now using a two-wheeler to get to work.

If it’s football you’re after, you’ve come to the right place. Brush up on the local scene by subscribing to the Hand of Pod podcast on iTunes, hosted by British expat Sam Kelly, and then get yourself to a game.

Spectator sports BOXING

Boxing’s glory days peaked in the mid 1980s, but the sport still draws crowds to Luna Park (see p129), BA’s answer to Madison Square Garden, where the red carpet is rolled out every month or so for the ritual of the Saturday night fight. Smaller matches are sometimes held at the Federación Argentina de Box (Castro Barros 75, 4981 8615, www.fabox.com.ar) in Almagro.

FOOTBALL

Today, the majority of the 30 first division teams are located in and around BA. The league is split into two seasons: inicial (opening) from August to December and final (closing) from February to July. Football in

Argentina tends to be spirited, highly competitive and a source of national pride. The best-known team is Club Atlético Boca Juniors, which play at the Estadio Alberto J Armando in La Boca, more commonly known as ‘La Bombonera’ – the chocolate box.

The so-called superclásico fixtures between Boca Juniors and arch-rivals Club Atlético River Plate are thought by some to be the greatest ‘derbies’ in the world. Other well-known teams include Club Atlético Independiente, Racing Club and the Pope’s team of choice, San Lorenzo de Almagro. For Boca Juniors and River Plate matches, be prepared to pay much higher prices for tickets than for other teams.

Tickets are not sold at the stadiums, and those sold by touts in the surrounding streets are almost always fakes – you’ve been warned! Your only viable option for getting to a game, unless you happen to be friends with a member, is to book through agencies like Tangol (4363 6000, www.tangol. com). Tour prices start from AR$1250 for a ticket in the popular area (where bags of wee, among other things, have been known to fly), and include transport to and from the game. For tickets in the platea (more comfortable and with better positioned seats) and for the big matches, the asking price can start from as high as AR$4000.

Vamos a la Cancha (mobile 15 6729 7183/valc.argentina@gmail.com) also takes small groups to Boca and River games and other matches, sitting in the platea areas (from US$70).

For any team other than Boca Juniors and River Plate, tickets are best bought from the club stores, check the club’s website for details. The atmosphere can be just as electric at matches at the other big clubs or

Estadio Monumental Home to Club Atlético River Plate, the Monumental is the largest stadium in the country and, thanks to its location in the upper-class barrio of Núñez, probably one of the safest. It’s also the only all-seater stadium in BA that comes close to meeting FIFA standards. River Plate play at home every other weekend during the football season, and major concerts are held here all year round. Guided tours of the museum are available from 11am to 5pm daily, and cost AR$130.

Avenida Figueroa Alcorta 7597, y Udaondo, Núñez (4789 1156/www. cariverplate.com.ar). Bus 12, 29, 130.

HORSE-RACING

The year’s most important races fall in November and December, but you can catch smaller meets all year round. The only grass track in Argentina, Zona Norte’s Hipódromo de San Isidro (Avenida Márquez 504, 4743 4011, www.hipodromosanisidro.com.ar) hosts races on Wednesdays and at weekends, with free entry. Turf’s most important venue, Hipódromo Argentino de Palermo (Avenida del Libertador 4101, 4778 2800, www.palermo.com.ar) hosts year-round meets. Races take place on Mondays and the weekend.

Entrance is free, betting is on the tote system and no alcohol can be purchased once inside the track.

POLO

Polo is played in the spring in BA, with the season starting in September and running through to November and December when the venerable Argentinian Open is played at the Campo Argentino de Polo de Palermo (Avenida del Libertador 4300, 4777 6444, www.aapolo.com). Try Ticketek for tickets. For the rest of the

year, the grounds remain relatively quiet, though chukkas are played elsewhere in other seasons, with the exception of winter. If you want to try your hand at polo in a peaceful setting not far from the city, you can’t go wrong with Argentina Polo Day (see p153) or Argentina Polo Fields (see p153). For more information on polo and other country pursuits, see our section on estancias on page 153.

RUGBY

The Argentinian rugby season runs from March to November and in 2014 Hindú Club (Ruta 202 y Avenida Del Golf, 4741 6150, www.hinduclub.com. ar) were victorious, beating other big club San Isidro Club (SIC) (Blanco Encalada 404, 4766 2030, www. sanisidroclub.com.ar), and 2013’s surprise winners Club Universitario de Buenos Aires (CUBA) (Avenida Perón y Pasaje Juan Cruz Migliore, 4660 0655, www.cuba.org.ar).

TENNIS

The biggest tournament held in Argentina is the Abierto de Tenis de Buenos Aires or Copa Claro (www. copaclaro.com), which takes place at the Buenos Aires Lawn Tennis Club (Olleros 1510) in Palermo. Home Davis Cup ties are generally held at Parque Roca (Avenida Roca 3490, 3706 4954, Villa Soldati), and tickets sell out quickly. Call for availability.

Participation sports

Parque Norte (Avenida Cantilo y Guiraldes, 4787 1382, www. parquenorte.com) and Palermo’s Club de Amigos (Avenida Figueroa Alcorta 3885, 4801 1213, www.clubdeamigos. org.ar) are recommended multi-sport venues (centros deportivos) which have swimming pools, tennis courts and football pitches.

CYCLING

Buenos Aires’s flat, gridded streets are ideal for exploring on two wheels, and with the introduction of extensive cycle paths and free bicycle rentals from EcoBici (www.buenosaires.gob.ar/ ecobici), the city has become more bike-friendly. Still, great care should be taken and defensive cycling practised.

Check the website La Vida en Bici (www.lavidaenbici.com/buenosaires) for a map of bike paths. To sign up for the EcoBici scheme, you’ll need your original ID plus a photocopy. Hugely popular Critical Mass (www. facebook.com/masacriticabsas) rides take place on the first Sunday of each month, with two-wheelers congregating at 4pm at the Obelisco (see p114). There’s also a Critical Mass ride on the night of the full moon, leaving from the Obelisco at 9pm. La Bicicleta Naranja (Pasaje Giuffra 308, San Telmo, 4362 1104; also at Nicaragua 4825, Palermo, www. labicicletanaranja.com.ar) hires bikes for AR$50 per hour, while Biking Buenos Aires (Perú 988, 4300 5373

Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015/16 125

www.bikingbuenosaires.com) offers half- and full-day city tours (US$60$90) and has recently begun doing its excellent, informative tours in Portuguese, as well as in Spanish and English. Urban Biking (Esmeralda 1084, 4568 4321, www.urbanbiking. com) has half- and full-day city tours (US$65-$120) and a full-day excursion to popular weekend spot Tigre via train and bike, which also includes kayaking on the river (US$150).

FOOTBALL

Whether it’s joining an impromptu game in the park or getting a group together and hiring out a pitch, you’ll never be far from a good football match. Listen out for the words cancha de fútbol (football pitch); there are hundreds in the city. Try Buenos Aires Fútbol Amigos (mobile 15 3832 8341, www.fcbafa.com), which organises weekly five-a-side games and asados for locals and foreigners of all levels (AR$80 a game).

Fitness & Sports

GOLF

Though BA has no stand-out golf tournament to speak of, recreational golfers can have a swing at the Campo de Golf de la Ciudad de Buenos Aires (Avenida Tornquist 6300, 4772 7261, www.campogolfpalermo.com), which sports an 18-hole course. There’s also plenty to aim for at the modern driving range Driving Norte (Avenida Cantilo y La Pampa, 4788 5666), from a green on an island to the huge net protecting the kitsch religious theme park, Tierra Santa, next door (see p118).

com.ar), you can take in the sights of Puerto Madero (see p118) as you kayak, row or stand-up paddle board your way down the river. One hour rental costs AR$150, five classes with an instructor are AR$1400. Enquire as well about the latest sporting craze – stand-up paddle board yoga. To row or kayak down the Delta, try Tigre’s Delta Rowing (Lavalle 945, mobile 15 4971 9342, www.escueladeremo.com), which offers classes, boat and kayak hire. Popular riverside leisure spot Perú Beach (Elcano 794, 4793 5986, www.peru-beach.com.ar) in Acassuso, reached by the Tren de la Costa, offers kitesurfing, kayaking and windsurfing, as well as roller hockey and skateboarding. Single outings start from AR$150. The newest addition to Tigre’s shores is the Aquafan (Vivanco 1509, 4002 6000, www. aquafan.com.ar) water park, which forms part of the Parque de la Costa, and has several slides and pools.

Fitness

AEROBIC EXERCISE

Vitruvian (www.vitruvianba.com) runs gruelling group CrossFit sessions in Palermo and Recoleta (AR$50 per group session or AR$400 a month), and the friendly and motivating instructors at Kasten (Godoy Cruz 2037, 4774 3680, www.kastencrossfit.com) will put you through your paces in Palermo (AR$250 per class or AR$700 a month).

HORSE-RIDING

Most estancias (ranches) in Buenos Aires province offer day and weekend packages, which include as much riding as your backside can stand plus, more often than not, post-ride asados and country-chic accommodation. A stand-out option is Estancia Los Dos Hermanos (www.estancialosdoshermanos. com). For a more structured approach within the city limits, Palermo’s Club Alemán de Equitación (Avenida Dorrego 4045, 4772 6289) provides riding and showjumping classes.

Located 30 minutes south of the city in a gorgeous forest reserve, Caballos a la Par (Apartment 2E, Lima 529, 5248 3592, www.caballos-alapar.com) offers half-day excursions with one-on-one lessons for novices and experts.

Whatever your level, the class is sure to make you break a sweat. If it’s polo you’re into – beginner or not – then refer to our section on the sport of kings (see p125).

WATER SPORTS

Most aquatic and nautical activities on the Río de la Plata take place in Zona Norte, 45 minutes from downtown, with centres located in and around San Isidro and Tigre. Renosto Náutica y Deportes in San Fernando (Avenida del Libertador 1999, 4744 6090, www. wake-board.com.ar) specialises in waterskiing and wakeboarding.

At Puro Remo (Dique 5, Olga Cossettini, 4313 8008, www.puroremo.

Try your hand (and feet) at kickboxing with Akibo (Avenida Federico Lacroze 2430, 4771 5537).

DANCE AND TRAPEZE

3290 8315, www.escueladeacrobacia. com.ar). Or get airborne at Brenda Angiel aerial dance school (Bartolomé Mitre 4272, Almagro, 4983 6980, www. danzaerea.com.ar). For information on tango, see page 133.

Cultural centres including the Ricardo Rojas and Borges (see p120) host dance GYMS & SPAS classes from tango and flamenco to contemporary and jazz. La Huella Most larger hotels let non-guests use (Bulnes 892, Almagro, 2066 1153, their facilities for a fee. Slick, clean www.lahuellaespaciodearte. and busy, the Megatlón blogspot.com.ar) offers (www.megatlon.com) flamenco classes as well chain has all the latest as dancehall, African exercise devices, offers Outdoor yoga dance, forró, jazz, tap and classes and has To find out about free belly dancing. Chacarita’s yoga classes across the branches throughout Dance&Move (Jorge city, check the Facebook the city. Rates are from Newberry 3663, 4554 AR$230 per day or group Yoga Gratis 8991, www.dancemove AR$1255 per month. en Buenos studio.com.ar/en) has hip One of the city’s most Aires. hop, breakdance and yoga exclusive clubs, Le Parc classes. Swingin’ Buenos Aires Gym & Spa (San Martín 645, (www.swinginbuenosaires.com.ar) runs 4311 9191, www.leparc.com) has swing classes at venues around the exercise machines, a pool, squash city. La Viruta (see p134) offers courts and beauty treatments. Rates classes in rock’n’roll and salsa as well are AR$250 per day, AR$500 for one as tango. All styles of Brazilian dance week or AR$1200 per month. are taught at Balaio (Mansilla 2787, PILATES AND YOGA Barrio Norte, 4963 6066, www.balaio. com.ar). For modern and classical Buena Onda Yoga (www. dance, check out the schools run by buenaondayoga.net) is an American-run Noemí Coelho and Rodolfo Olguín studio that holds group and private (Montevideo 787, Tribunales, 4812 classes in English and Spanish at 5483, www.coelholguin.com; also at locations across the city for US$80 a Blanco Encalada 2126, Belgrano, 4781 month. Meanwhile Bikram Yoga 0130). For those looking to try trapeze, Buenos Aires (Avenida Las Heras juggling or tightrope, circus schools 3541, 4800 1985, www.bikramyoga.com. abound, including Mamarula ar) is the only bikram studio in the city, Escuela de Acrobacia (mobile 15 with rates from AR$617 per month for four classes. At pilates studio La Usina Pilates (Studio 18, Costa Rica 4684, 4831 2534, www.pilateslausina.blogspot. com) in Palermo, prices start at AR$430 per month for four classes. For private or group yoga and pilates classes with an experienced British instructor, contact Nicola Tarbuck (see p110).

TOP TIP!

RUNNING

Veteran marathoners and iPod-rocking joggers go to Palermo’s Tres de Febrero park. Hammer out your workout on the marked 1600m loop around the lake, or head out on dirt trails that take you along the safe, tree-lined Avenida Figueroa Alcorta.

Scores of running groups can be found here too: if you’d like to join, check Buenos Aires Corre’s Facebook page (www.facebook.com/ buenosairescorre), or go to the Rosedal (rose garden), then ask around. The best routes downtown are the flat promenades along Puerto Madero or the red-earth tracks in the Reserva Ecológica (see p118).

Shape up A holiday in Buenos Aires is often synonymous with gorging on steak and red wine – and far be it for us to discourage you from enjoying beef and malbec to the fullest. Fortunately, keeping fit while visiting BA is easier than ever with the help of British personal trainer and nutrition expert Martin Ebner of Ebylife (mobile 15 3847 5300/www.ebylife.com). Ebner’s plans are suitable for all levels, whether you’re a fitness junkie looking for a new challenge, in need of a specialised diet and workout plan, or just looking for an excuse to enjoy fresh air and exercise. Individual sessions start at US$25, but to really get your mind and body in shape, go for a Wellness Plan. Starting at US$150, the plans include gym passes, spa treatments, diet plans, personal training sessions and more.

126 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015/16

SWIMMING

Swimming and the murky Río de la Plata ought not to be mentioned in the same sentence – take one look at the water and you’ll see it’s far too polluted. Instead, try gym chains with pools such as Megatlón. In Belgrano, Acercar (José Hernández 1350, 4788 3352, www.natatorioacercar.com.ar) has lap lanes open to the public; entry costs from AR$160 for a day pass.

Parque Norte in Núñez (4787 1382, www.parquenorte.com) has three pools and water slides.

Avenida Córdoba 4119, entre Palestina y Pringles, Palermo (4861 3763/www. facebook.com/sitgesbuenosaires). Bus 92, 140, 168. Open from 11pm Thu-Sun. No credit cards. Map F2.

Gay & Lesbian

CLUB NIGHTS

Fiesta Jolie

The scene

INFORMATION AND SAFETY Several travel agencies such as Hadrianus Gay Travel (www. hadrianus.com.ar) are devoted to serving gay tourists. BA4U (www. ba4uapartments.com.ar) provides apartment rental services and helpful information. Other gay friendly accommodation can be found at Buenos Aires Stay (Avenida Santa Fe 1970, 3220 7138), which also has a Facebook page (www.facebook.com/ GayBuenosAiresStayGuides) with happenings in BA’s gay scene. Look out for the excellent free listings guides GMAPS (www.gaymaps.org) and Circuitos Cortos BsAs Gay (www.circuitoscortos.com.ar).

On the town TOURS

Out & About Gay Pub Crawl This fabulous pub crawl is a sure-fire way to mingle with locals and travellers. The tour price gets you an hour of all-you-can-swallow beer, wine, tapas and pizza followed by a visit to three of Palermo’s hottest gay-friendly joints where crawlers are treated to a

BARS AND CAFÉS

Bach Bar There are no frills at this charming little lesbian bar in Palermo. The one-drink cover charge is a bargain in exchange for a guaranteed blast in what must be the friendliest lesbian joint in town. Don’t miss the live music and strippers on Wednesdays and Thursdays, or karaoke on Sundays.

Cabrera 4390, y Julián Álvarez, Palermo (mobile 15 5184 0137). Bus 36, 39, 110, 168. Open from 11pm Wed-Sun. No credit cards. Map F2.

Flux A popular fixture in the centre of town, this basement bar attracts a mixture of tourists and business travellers itching for an early drink. Thursday night draws in the biggest crowds, with pop megastars like Lady Gaga and Britney Spears making up the soundtrack, while Saturday’s two-for-one cocktails until 10pm make Flux the perfect previa spot. Located behind an unassuming black door, the bar is easy to miss. Once inside, the vibe is chilled, the lights are low and the tropical cocktails come cheap and fast.

Marcelo T de Alvear 980, y Carlos Pellegrini, Retiro (5252 0258/fluxbar buenosaires.blogspot.com.ar). Subte C, San Martín/bus 10, 17, 37, 115, 129.

Open from 7pm daily. No credit cards. Map D5. D Peuteo Peuteo is a lifesaver for the pre-boliche crowd looking to get a head start on a

night of drinking and dancing. Located in the epicentre of Palermo’s nightlife, this hetero-friendly bar fills to the brim with a young gay crowd, before they head off to a club come 2am. The name is a play on words (hint: it’s an iteration of a derogatory term for gay men), and even more playful are the adorable bartenders who concoct an array of cocktails designed by the experts at Frank’s (see p78).

Gurruchaga 1867, entre Costa Rica y Nicaragua, Palermo (4831 8507/www. peuteo.com). Bus 15, 39, 55, 111, 141.

Open 7pm-4am Wed-Sun. No credit cards. Map G3. D Pride Hollywood If you’re looking to escape the buzzing streets for a quiet coffee, the relaxing gay- and hetero-friendly atmosphere at Pride Hollywood is just the thing.

While the original Pride in San Telmo is a long-standing favourite for the afternoons, this branch, situated on the cobbled corner of a tree-lined street, is livelier in the evenings and has a lovely menu of Italian cuisine.

Humboldt 1897, y Costa Rica, Palermo (4776 6197/www.pridehollywood.com. ar). Bus 34, 39, 93. Open 10am-9pm Mon-Thu; 9am-2am Fri-Sun. No credit cards. Map H3. D Sitges Sitges is one of BA’s few options for gays and lesbians who’ve tossed out their dancing shoes or are looking for a bar stool where they can kill an hour or two before heading to nearby Amerika (see p128).The drinks are no bargain, but getting hammered isn’t exactly the point here, unless it’s Friday (when a AR$120 wristband at the door gets you as much beer and liquor – local brands only – as you can handle). Drag comedy and strippers who grin and bare it all liven up the mood, and there’s free pizza and karaoke fun on Sundays.

(On weekends, pick up a pass to Glam on the way out.)

Fiesta Eyeliner Inclusive party Eyeliner is aimed at anyone who identifies themselves as ‘queer, pop-rocker and underground’ or wants to bust moves to a hodgepodge of cumbia, 90s pop, grunge rock and reggaeton. Eyeliner takes ‘heterofriendly’ to a whole new level, so don’t be surprised if that cute guy you had your eye on ends up leaving with a girl who looks like she walked off the set of The Matrix. Good vibes and cheap drinks ensure the queue here is always epic, and on nights when the turnout is expected to be more than they can handle, Fiesta Eyeliner takes its party to Perón 1281. Entry costs AR$130.

Saturdays at Hipólito Yrigoyen 851, entre Piedras y Tacuarí, Monserrat (www.facebook.com/FiestasEyeliner).

Subte A, Piedras/bus 17, 22, 29, 39, 45, 129. Open 1-7am. Map D4.

Fiesta Jolie So, what do women want? A good fancy dress party, free ice-cream, all-you-can-eat pizza, tarot card readers and karaoke, of course. The opposite sex, it seems, wants the same thing too, because while Fiesta Jolie started out as a purely lesbian and bi night, it now attracts hot young things of all genders and sexual orientations. The space features three different DJs and beats; DJ Fabián Jara spins pop music on one dancefloor, Nicolás Etchelecu keeps the crowd moving to punk and hip hop on another, while the third floor has rotating guest DJs. Free entry and themed nights keep the crowds coming.

Wednesdays at Tazz, Armenia 1744, y Costa Rica, Palermo (www.facebook. com/fiestajolie). Bus 39, 110, 140, 141.

Open 9pm-5am. Map G3. !Fiesta Plop What started as an underground party has grown up with its uber-young revellers who now range from barely out of their teen wonder years to late

Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015/16 127

Gay & Lesbian

With numerous clubs, parties and bars, BA’s gay scene has plenty to keep you occupied come nightfall. But that doesn’t mean there’s nothing going on in the day. Get to know local activists at organisations like Comunidad Homosexual Argentina (see p128) and Casa Brandon (see p128), which provide safe spaces for community members and their allies, as well as hosting a packed agenda of events.

If the big LGBTQ club nights are a little too grandiose for your tastes, explore the underground gay scene with our round up of BA’s best pop-up parties on page 128.

welcome shot and drink specials. By the time the group hits the boliche (VIP entrance included to popular club night Rheo), participants have generally amassed a whole gang of new amigos and enough social lubricant to keep the party going until well past dawn.

Check website for meeting point (www.outandaboutpubcrawl.com).

Tours 10pm Thu, Sat. AR$200.

Fiesta Dorothy Put on by the Rheo Group, the city’s gay event powerhouse, this fiesta requires you to prepare for a huge night, where DJs spin electronic and pop remixes and three-storey high video screens get you in the mood to dance till dawn. It helps that the night draws some of BA’s best-looking guys and gals, from pill-popping musculocas dancing shirtless on the main floor downstairs to young model wannabes. Consider getting a VIP table with a group of friends for AR$2800 (AR$1800 of which goes towards drinks). If you can’t cough up that much change, buy a regular ticket in advance via Ticketek (see p129) for AR$120 (AR$140 on the door).

Fridays at Alsina, approx monthly, Alsina 940 y Tacuarí, Monserrat (mobile 15 3430 2711/www.facebook. com/fiesta.dorothy). Subte A, Piedras/ bus 2. Open from 12.30am. Map C4.

Gay & Lesbian

Fiesta Whip Hundreds of downtown club kids make Whip their Friday night fiesta of choice. This party has mayhem, disco balls, dancefloors and drag queens.

The entrance fee is AR$130 before 2am, AR$150 after, and can be avoided altogether by getting your name on a list. But with frequent barra libre (open bar) nights, the price certainly doesn’t deter the local club fiends.

Fridays at Amerika, Gascón 1040, entre Estado de Israel y Rocamora, Almagro (www.facebook.com/Fiesta Whip). Bus 36, 92, 106, 151, 168.

Open from 1am. Map F2. !Rheo The place to be seen on Saturdays, this party in Crobar’s side space has three things going for it: BA’s best-looking gay crowd, a friendly party vibe and a massive outdoor area. You can shell out AR$2000 for a VIP table (AR$1500 of which goes towards drinks), but even the AR$80 cover charge (AR$120 after 2am) guarantees a good time. The night before public holidays, the party changes its name to Human and relocates to Crobar’s main dancefloor.

Also keep an eye out for Rheo’s other big, gay party, Bagfest, held in November and March.

Saturdays at Crobar, Marcelino Freyre e Infanta Isabel, Paseo de la Infanta, Palermo (mobile 15 3430 2711/www. rheo.com.ar). Bus 10, 34, 37, 57, 160.

Open from 12.30am. Map G5.

CLUBS

Amerika BA’s biggest gay disco regularly draws thousands of boozed-up, party-hungry punters of increasingly mixed and flexible sexual orientations, including a good-times straight crowd. There are two dancefloors, with four bars and ultra-flirtatious bartenders. Add to that regular live shows, strippers, all-you-can-drink nights on Fridays and Saturdays for AR$100-$190 and a very packed darkroom.

Gascón 1040, entre Rocamora y Estado de Israel, Almagro (4865 4416/www. ameri-k.com.ar). Subte B, Medrano/bus 19, 36, 151, 160, 168. Open 1-6.30am Fri-Sun. Map F2.

Contramano Remember the 1980s? Well, the crowd here – some of it original in more ways than one – is living proof that the gay pickup/hustler bar theme never really

DIEGO QUIROGA

twenties and beyond. Cheap booze and a mix of straight-up pop, rock and cumbia help you keep up with the energised crowd of mostly local gays and lesbians. Every week has a new theme, with a team of dancers and actors putting on a performance that’s worth the AR$120 cover charge alone.

Plop tends to pack in the crowds, so get there early to avoid the long queue. If you can’t get in, try Plop’s sister party, Fiesta Puerca, on Saturdays.

Fridays at Teatro Vorterix, Avenida Federico Lacroze 3455, entre Delgado y Avenida Álvarez Thomas, Colegiales (www.facebook.com/fiestaplop). Bus 19, 39, 76, 93. Open from 12.30am.

Markus Day Spa The modern gentleman about town will surely be satisfed with services that range from stress fighting caviar facials to vinoterapia (wine therapy) sessions, along with procedures such as Botox and laser hair removal.

Ground floor, Avenida Callao 1046, y Marcelo T de Alvear, Barrio Norte (4811 0058/www.markusformen.com).

Subte D, Callao/bus 10, 12, 152. Open noon-9.30pm Mon-Sat; noon-8pm Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D4.

Zoom Located next to one of the gayest gyms in town (Caribbean, see left), this sex club offers plenty of fun.

Uriburu 1018, y Marcelo T de Alvear, Barrio Norte (4827 4828/www. zoombuenosaires.com). Subte D, Pueyrredón/bus 37, 39. Open 24hrs daily. Admission AR$80. Map E4.

Tango Queer at Buenos Ayres Club (see p133)

died. A cover of AR$80-$90 gets you a drink and the chance to cruise and dance to pop, disco and electro.

Rodríguez Peña 1082, y Marcelo T de Alvear, Recoleta (4811 0494/www. contramano.com). Subte D, Callao/bus 17, 39, 140, 150. Open midnight-7am Fri, Sat; 10pm-6am Sun. Map D4.

Glam Glam packs them in on Thursdays and Saturdays (free with a pass from Sitges, see p127) with expats, tourists and porteños of all ages rounding out the crowd. Pick your spot from the two bars, several lounge areas, main dancefloor or boogie area in the back (featuring 1980s pop and Latin beats) and let the fun begin. The hot darkroom behind the back bar is just a short climb up a winding staircase – some might call it a stairway to heaven.

Cabrera 3046, entre Laprida y Agüero, Barrio Norte (4963 2521). Bus 29, 92.

Open 1-6.30am Thu, Sat. Map E3.

CULTURAL CENTRE

Casa Brandon Where’s a girl to go when she wants to have fun? Try this four-storey house, named after Brandon Teena, the transman played by Hilary Swank in Boys Don’t Cry – it’s a cultural centre, gallery, resto-bar, lounge, cinema and performance space rolled into one. Visit for information, to socialise at the bar, or just to take in the scenery.

Luís María Drago 236, entre Lavalleja y Julián Álvarez, Villa Crespo (4858 0610/www.brandon.org.ar). Subte B, Malabia/bus 15, 124, 141. Open from 8pm Wed-Sun. Map F1.

Work and play GYMS

Caribbean This is a great gym with a range of free weights and machines. But the real draw is the guys. Packed from 7.30pm to 8.30pm on weekdays, this gym is just around the corner from the

128 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015/16

working boys on Marcelo T de Alvear and next door to Zoom (see right).

Uriburu 1012, y Marcelo T de Alvear, Barrio Norte (4829 2164). Subte D, Pueyrredón/bus 29, 60, 111. Open 5.30am-9.30pm Mon-Thu; 5.30am-9pm Fri; 9am-2pm Sat. Admission AR$60 per day; AR$350 one month membership. Credit V. Map E4.

Megatlon Sede Barrio Norte Like the other Megatlons in BA (see p126), membership means access to a pool, machines, weights and all the typical fitness classes. Unlike other Megatlons, the large gay membership and status as a cruising spot means there’s plenty of eye candy in the spinning class.

Rodríguez Peña 1062, y Avenida Santa Fe, Barrio Norte (4816 8566/www. megatlon.com/sedes/barrionorte). Subte D, Callao/bus 10, 12. Open 6am-11pm Mon-Fri; 8am-8pm Sat; 10am-6pm Sun. Admission AR$230 per day; AR$1255 one month membership. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map E4.

SAUNAS, SPAS & CRUISING SPOTS

Buenos Aires a Full This place draws a young crowd and is busiest at the weekends thanks to its saunas, jacuzzi and film screenings.

Tanning beds mean you can even work on your colour before mingling.

Viamonte 1770, entre Avenida Callao y Rodríguez Peña, Tribunales (4371 7263/www.bsasafullspa.com.ar).

Subte D, Callao/bus 12, 26, 37, 60.

Open noon-midnight Mon-Thu; 24hrs Fri-Sun. Admission AR$120. No credit cards. Map D4.

Homo Sapiens Handily located just a block away from Amerika (see left), this complex has private cabins, drinks, a film zone, saunas and a smoking area.

Gascón 956, y Rocamora, Almagro (4862 6519/www.h-sapiens.com.ar).

Subte B, Medrano/bus 24, 160. Open noon-midnight daily. Admission AR$100. Map F2.

Resources Comunidad Homosexual Argentina (CHA) Argentina’s oldest and most politically influential queer organisation has an exhaustive library of books and films.

Tomás Liberti 1080, e Irala, La Boca (4361 6382/www.cha.org.ar). Bus 10.

Open call to arrange a visit. Map A3.

Fabulous Weddings Laetitia Orsetti, founder of Fabulous Weddings is a seasoned pro at navigating the logistics and legalities of getting hitched in Argentina. She’s good at sorting out the fun details, too.

Call to arrange an appointment (4065 8537/www.fab-weddings.com).

La Fulana Lesbian and bisexual women get together to make friends and share tips at this community centre.

Apartment 6F, Avenida de Mayo 881, y Tacuarí, Microcentro (4342 1689/ www.lafulana.org.ar). Subte A, Piedras/ bus 2, 5, 7. Open 6-10pm Fri. Map C4.

Pop-up parties If BA’s major gay and lesbian club nights are too mainstream for your tastes, turn instead to the city’s many pop-up LGBTQ parties, which are a more intimate way to get to know the local scene and generally attract young, hipster types. Because these parties are sporadic and often held in hole-in-the-wall venues, the best way to make sure you don’t miss the fiesta is by keeping an eye on the Facebook pages of groups like Fiesta Mansa (www.facebook. com/fiesta.mansa), Stamina (www. facebook.com/staminamix), Make Me a Dancer (www.facebook.com/makeme adancer) and LOVE (www.facebook.com/ groups/loveba). Don’t miss the spring and summer editions of Mansa en la Rua by Fiesta Mansa in the Bosques de Palermo (see p117), where buena onda is combined with house and hip-hop beats.

The equally fun LOVE party happens every few months in more traditional venues like Pachá (see p90) and Moscow (Avenida Juan B Justo 1477).

MARIA LAFFITTE

Music

Loli Molina plays at Sofar Sounds (see p130)

The essentials There’s music to be heard at every hour, every day in Buenos Aires. Take an afternoon stroll through the streets and you’re bound to hear cumbia’s distinctive beat blaring from car radios, or pass by an open air tango performance. By nightfall, take your pick of jazz clubs, open mic nights, traditional peñas and classical music at illustrious theatres.

Summer in particular is the most exciting time for music in the city.

Buenos Aires may not be as well known for its music festivals as other major cities, but its summer festival season is slowly building its reputation. Lollapallooza is about to hold its third edition in BA, having hosted headliners like Pharrell and Jack White. Indie fans rocked out to Tame Impala at the first edition of Music Wins in November 2014, while electronic mainstays Creamfields and Ultra host DJs like Nicolas Jaar.

Carlos Gardel is the king of tango, but there are also plenty of modern superstars that reign proudly over the category of rock nacional, or Argentinian rock. Though recent years have seen the deaths of two home-grown rock gods, Gustavo Cerati and Luis Alberto Spinetta, their music remains hugely influential across the Spanish-speaking world and continues to influence up and coming acts.

CONCERTS AND TICKET INFO There are frequent concerts in Buenos Aires, with larger ones publicised on billboards and smaller ones advertised in the local press and listed on websites like Vuenos Airez (www. vuenosairez.com), Time Out Buenos Aires’s Facebook page (www.

facebook.com/timeoutba) and the BA section of Songkick (www.songkick. com). You can buy tickets through Ticketek (5237 7200, www.ticketek. com.ar, eight locations). Alternatively, use Plateanet (5236 3000, www. plateanet.com) or TuEntrada (5254 9100, www.tuentrada.com) for theatre and music bookings. Most smaller venues, especially clubs, take cash only for shows. Take note: unless a concert is held in a licensed bar or club, alcohol is not served at concert venues or festivals.

Rock, indie and dance Buenos Aires has well and truly established itself on the international concert circuit, with well-known acts like Blur, Katy Perry and Buena Vista Social Club having regaled the capital recently. While most local hipsters still worship The Rolling Stones and The Beatles, Argentina’s rock nacional also enjoys massive popularity, with artists like Charly García and Kevin Johansen, and bands like Onda Vaga, Babasónicos, Divididos, Tan Biónica and El Mató a un Policía Motorizado just some of the acts currently doing the rounds in BA. Once confined to the city’s slums, cumbia now commands fans from across the social strata and, along with tango and traditional folk music, has been given the electro treatment.

The record label ZZK Records (www. zzkrecords.com) is taking digital cumbia to the world stage, with acts like Chancha Via Circuito, Villa Diamante and La Yegros. Digital folklore artist Tremor is also on the label’s roster, pairing synth loops with Andean flutes and bombo legüero

(drum) samples. Other locals spearheading the digital folklore boom include female singersongwriters Soema Montenegro and Paloma del Cerro, as well as vibrant male-female duo Tonolec and Sonido Guay Ñene, an electro-folklore band hailing from Mendoza. Hip hop, dancehall, reggae and cumbia are the genres traversed by the feisty Miss Bolivia, who is always a hot ticket around town.

NoAvestruz (see p132) and La Oreja Negra (Uriarte 1271, 2053 3263, www.laorejanegra.weebly.com) all offer varied live music. Makena (Fitz Roy 1519, 4772 8281, www. facebook.com/makenacantinaclub) serves up a mean cocktail and a mixed line-up of local bands – Sunday night’s Afromama party is particularly popular, while indie-cool El Quetzal (Guatemala 4516, 3526 4805, www.elquetzal.com.ar) hosts live music most nights. The eclectic acts that play at Palermo Viejo’s cultural centre Club Cultural Matienzo (Pringles 1249, 6610 1520, www.ccmatienzo.com.ar) frequently defy genre. For music you can move to, Abasto’s Uniclub (Guardia Vieja 3360, 4867 6764, www.uniclub.com.ar) hosts a steady stream of reggae, ska and Latin acts as well as a selection of just-emerging-from-the-garage bands. Over in Almagro, swing bands, tango orchestras and sedate, candlelit piano recitals are on the weekly menu at hidden rennovated mansion Sr Duncan (see p84) and bands rock out in the basement of student favourite Imaginario Cultural (Bulnes 899). A stone’s throw away, dingy joint Ladran Sancho (Guardia Vieja 3811, 4863 1095, www.facebook.com.ladran sanchoespaciodearte) has a packed line-up of mostly acoustic local acts.

In Barracas, catch anything from rock and pop to reggae and Afrobeat at Plasma (Piedras 1856).

MAJOR VENUES

When well-known international names hit the capital, their shows tend to sell out quickly. The biggest acts entertain the masses at River Plate Stadium (Avenida SMALL VENUES Figueroa Alcorta 7597, Buenos Aires has tons of 4789 1200), GEBA excellent venues – and Jorge Newbery its Subte stations and (Marcelino Freyre Indie love parks are some of 3831, 4382 0031), See which indie bands are them. You’ll doubtless Luna Park (Avenida making the rounds in BA stumble across some Madero 420, 5279 at Spanish-language música en vivo (live 5279, www.lunapark. website Indie Hearts music) as you wander com.ar) and Estadio (www.indiehearts.

BA’s streets at night, Único (www. com). especially in San Telmo. estadiolp.gba.gov.ar), Look for blackboards, flyers and which is located outside the capital in the city of La Plata. queues of youngsters outside Other important venues in BA unlikely looking doors. Two of the include the elegant and stately lesser-known jewels in San Telmo include Tabaco (Estados Unidos 265, Teatro Gran Rex (Avenida Corrientes 857, 4322 8000, www.

4232 9794), a grungy little club teatro-granrex.com.ar), which seats populated by rocker types, and Bar 3,500 people. Also in the centre, Guebara (Humberto 1° 463, mobile traditional theatre ND/Ateneo 15 5771 5550), which is another good bet for live music. In the centre, Ultra (Paraguay 918, 4328 2888, www. ndteatro.com.ar) is a key venue for (San Martín 678, 4312 5605, www. theatre performances and local and ultrapop-ar.blogspot.com.ar) is gig central, and you can also catch bands Latin American musicians.

Down a cobbled street in San at Bárbaro Bar (see p74). The Telmo, the intimate Samsung Library Lounge (see p76) at the Studio (5 de Julio 444, 5533 5533, very fancy Faena Hotel Buenos Aires www.samsungstudio.com.ar) features is a beautiful venue with pricey sauce. anything from jazz and pop to In Palermo, atmospheric Café Vinilo chanson française. Nearby La (Gorriti 3780, 4866 6510, www.

Trastienda (Balcarce 460, 4342 cafevinilo.com.ar), Vuela el Pez 7650, www.latrastienda.com) attracts (Avenida Córdoba 4379, 4774 6834, discerning fans with its cutting-edge www.facebook.com/vuelaelpez), Argentinian acts, established Latin

TOP TIP!

Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015/16 129

folk music, head to Folk You Mondays (www.facebook.com/ folkyoumondays) open mic night at La dama de Bollini in Recoleta.

Classical and opera

Music

Musical acts bigs and small play at the Pequeño Gran Festival at the Ciudad Cultural Konex (see p131)

American talent and international performers. Over in Abasto, Ciudad Cultural Konex (see p131) is an excellent venue for interesting and dynamic acts, like Monday’s improvisational percussion concerts held under the banner La Bomba de Tiempo. Niceto Club (see p90) and Groove (Avenida Santa Fe 4389, www.palermogroove.com) are excellent spots in trendy Palermo to catch local and international indie bands, while Crobar (see p88) occasionally hosts fun dance crossover acts.

Salón Pueyrredón (Avenida Santa Fe 4560, www.salonpueyrredon. com.ar) is the closest thing BA has to a classic punk club. It’s also the city’s major testing ground for local rock and pop outfits, so most nights Levi’s and designer T-shirts outnumber mohicans and studded dog-collars.

In Colegiales, Teatro Vorterix (Federico Lacroze 3455, www. elteatroonline.com.ar) is a spectacular old theatre showcasing both new and established rockers, while in Flores, El Teatro Flores (Avenida Rivadavia 7806, www.elteatroonline.com.ar) hosts bands from Argentina and abroad.

Jazz and blues

A growing jazz and blues scene is emerging in Buenos Aires, and there are free and inexpensive recitals to be found at venues throughout the city, in addition to those by well-known acts.

Notorious (Avenida Callao 966, 4813 6888, www.notorious.com.ar) hosts daily shows by respected local jazz musicians, as well as occasional new folk and world music acts.

Inspired by New York jazz clubs, Thelonius Club (Salguero 1884, 4829 1562, www.thelonious.com.ar) combines the comforts of a very

well-stocked bar with an impressive programme of live jazz. In the centre, the newest addition to the scene, sophisticated basement venue Bebop Club (Moreno 364, 4331 3409, www. bebopclub.com.ar), features quality jazz, blues, funk, soul and pop acts.

The refined and trendy Boris jazz club (Gorriti 5568, 4777 0012, www. borisclub.com.ar) also regularly hosts an exciting line-up of musicians, while the Teatro IFT (Boulogne Sur Mer 549, 4961 9562, www.teatroift.org.ar) boasts regular live jazz acts in addition to its theatre performances.

San Telmo’s Café Rivas (see p31) and Boedo’s bohemian Pan y Arte (see p38) are intimate spots to enjoy weekly jazz recitals over a glass of red wine. In Barrio Norte, well-stocked bookshop Clásica y Moderna (Avenida Callao 892, 4812 8707, www. clasicaymoderna.com) hosts regular jazz and blues shows in an elegant, atmospheric space.

Swing jazz has a small but devoted following; look out for swing bands Lobo Con Swing and Orquesta Inestable and try the website www. swingcity.com.ar for event listings and classes. The city government also organises Buenos Aires Jazz (www. festivales.buenosaires.gob.ar), which takes place in early November.

Folk and world

Buenos Aires might be the capital of Argentina, but the country’s musical heart lies far from this fashionable centre. In fact, most Argentinians are more likely to listen to música folclórica than to tango.

At live folklore shows, or peñas, you can tune in to the chacarera, zamba and chamamé – the country sounds of Argentina’s far-flung provinces. A

130 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015/16

great restaurant peña, Los Cardones (Jorge Luis Borges 2180, 4777 1112, www.cardones.com.ar) is popular with students, as is La Peña del Colorado (Güemes 3657, 4822 1038, www.lapeniadelcolorado.com), which has good acts and criollo-style food. If you haven’t yet tried maté, the herbal infusion that’s an Argentinian passion and a daily ritual, this is a good place to put that right. Once the troubadours have finished with the show, guitars are handed out so you can make your own music, and there’s also dancing.

For those with more stamina, peñas bailables are all-night wine-sloshing, foot-stomping shindigs providing a happy hoedown. Some of the best monthly parties (held on Saturday nights) are La Resentida (Bacacay 1600, www.laresentida.com.ar) in Caballito and De La Ribera (Zufriategui 1251, www.webfolklore. com.ar/laribera) in Olivos. The weekly Feria de Mataderos (see p110) is also a top spot for live folkloric music and dancing on Sunday afternoons.

For a list of Buenos Aires’s peñas, see www.folkloreclub.com.ar.

Reflecting Buenos Aires’s large Spanish community are the flamenco bars scattered around Avenida de Mayo.

An inexpensive option, Bar Cantares (Rivadavia 1180, 4381 6965, www. cantarestablao.com.ar) features live flamenco on Friday and Saturday nights for AR$100. Opened by a Spanish immigrant, Avila (Avenida de Mayo 1384, 4383 6974) hosts flamenco shows on Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays at 10.30pm, for AR$360, including tapas and drinks. The atmospheric bar has walls covered with old black-and-white pictures, but even better are the fiery Andalucian steps enacted on stage.

To hear young musicians’ take on

Opera, classical music and ballet buffs should not miss a night at the magnificent Teatro Colón (see p131).

Classical music can be found elsewhere in the city, including at the Teatro Coliseo (Marcelo T de Alvear 1125, 4816 3789), La Boca’s Usina del Arte (see p132), the Museo de Arte Hispanoamericano Isaac Fernández Blanco (see p118), the Teatro San Martín (see p131) and in the ‘blue whale’ of stunning new venue, the Centro Cultural Kirchner (see p120). The Teatro Nacional Cervantes (see p131) has free contemporary orchestral recitals, while the Biblioteca Nacional (Agüero 2502, 4808 6000, www.bn.gov. ar) often puts on free classical and jazz concerts. Auditorio de Belgrano (Virrey Loreto 2348, 4783 1783) holds free classical concerts on Friday evenings. The Centro Cultural Recoleta (see p120) also hosts occasional classical concerts.

Modest institutions like La Scala de San Telmo (Pasaje Giuffra 371, 4362 3847, www.lascala.com.ar) are awash with talented performers. Much of the city’s classical music scene is in the hands of professional and amateur groups, including the Mozarteum Argentino (Ground floor ‘A’, Rodríguez Peña 1882, 4811 3348). Opera and classical music fans ought to visit Teatro Avenida (Avenida de Mayo 1222, 4381 0662).

So far, so good In 2009, two London friends were fed up with going to music gigs only to be surrounded by attendees who spent the entire show staring at their phones. They invited three bands to play in their living room and the evening was such a roaring success it sparked the global movement Sofar Sounds (www.sofarsounds.com), which aims to reinvigorate the live music scene through secret gigs held in living rooms. Over 170 cities – including seven in Argentina – participate, and demand for tickets in Buenos Aires is so high the Argentinian capital now hosts two shows per month. But though the shows are free, getting into a Sofar event isn’t so easy.

Register on Sofar’s website, choose a date and cross your fingers you’ll be one of the 50 to 60 people randomly selected to attend. Guests have no idea which three bands they’ll be seeing (mostly emerging local artists, though both the Magic Numbers and Bastille have played in Buenos Aires) and receive the top-secret location just a few days before the event. Once the music starts, the rules are strict: everyone has to stay until the end, and must keep their mouths shut and their phones off. The result is a surprisingly intimate experience.

MAURO DANN

Box office 10am-8pm daily. Shows Wed-Sun. Tickets AR$350. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D4. !Teatro Colón This is one of Buenos Aires’s grandest landmarks, complete with a lavish interior and powerful acoustics. As well as regular performances by the BA Philharmonic Orchestra, it stages superb ballets (including classics like Cinderella and Swan Lake) as well as operas (such as the Verdi tribute Masked Ball).

Libertad 621, y Tucumán, Tribunales (4378 7100/guided tours 4378 7127/ www.teatrocolon.org.ar). Subte D, Tribunales/bus 5, 10, 39, 129, 140. Box office 10am-8pm Mon-Sat; 10am-5pm Sun. Guided tours 9am-5pm daily.

Tickets AR$30-$2000; guided tours AR$180. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D5.

Performing Arts

Teatro Liceo This 600-seat theatre is the oldest and one of the most spectacular venues in the city, and is still going strong.

Avenida Rivadavia 1499, entre Paraná y Uruguay, Congreso (4381 5745/ www.multiteatro.com.ar). Subte A, Sáenz Peña/bus 39, 168. Box office 10am-8pm Mon, Tue; 10am-start of show Wed-Sun. Tickets AR$230-$250.

Credit AmEx, V. Map C4.

Brenda Angiel’s aerial dance company (see p126) is one of BA’s many talented troupes

The basics

TICKETS AND INFORMATION You can buy tickets at each venue’s boletería (box office), often with cash only, or through Ticketek (5237 7200, www.ticketek.com.ar) or TuEntrada (www.tuentrada.com) for major productions or venues. Credit cards are accepted and booking fees apply.

Discounted tickets for plays, musicals, and films are available from Cartelera Baires (Unit 24, Avenida Corrientes 1382, www.cartelerabaires.com), Cartelera Lavalle (Lavalle 742, 4322 1559, www.carteleralavalle.com.ar) and Alternativa Teatral (www. alternativateatral.com).

Theatre in BA ranges from high-profile comedy acts and musical numbers to under-the-radar productions, often exploring political themes. But with more than 160 theatres in the capital alone, off-Corrientes and off-offCorrientes productions proliferate wildly, with many works of independent theatre to be found.

Government-funded venues like the Teatro San Martín (see right), cultural centres (see p120) and Ciudad Cultural Konex (see right) all host a variety of multimedia productions. For acting workshops, try the British Arts Centre (see p120).

Dance

Although tango tends to dominate dance in Buenos Aires, a deep-rooted classical tradition exists as well. The Ballet Teatro Colón, established in 1925, is the oldest company in South America.

Another famous local group to look out for is Maximiliano Guerra’s Ballet del Mercosur. For those who have seen one Swan Lake too many, there’s the Ballet Contemporáneo at the Teatro San Martín, and Compañía de Danza Contemporánea at the Centro Nacional de la Música y la Danza (México 564, 4300 7384), a splendid old building that was once the national library. For modern dance, a good option is El Portón de Sánchez (Sánchez de

Bustamante 1034, 4863 2848).

Traditional dances such as the chacarera and the foot-stomping zamba (not to be confused with the samba) can be seen and practised at folk music venues known as peñas (see p130).

All venues MAJOR INSTITUTIONS

!Ciudad Cultural Konex Based in a former factory, this complex provides a gritty industrial backdrop to an array of events, pulling in a young, bohemian crowd.

It’s perhaps best known for Monday’s La Bomba de Tiempo, an improvisational percussion-based musical show whose beats keep the crowd moving from 7pm until 10pm; entry is AR$80.

Sarmiento 3131, entre Jean Jaurès y Anchorena, Abasto (4864 3200/www. ciudadculturalkonex.org). Subte B, Carlos Gardel/bus 5, 7, 26. Box office 2-6pm Mon-Fri; 6-10pm Thu-Sun. Shows Wed-Mon. Tickets AR$50$160. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map E2.

Multiteatro With its three small, versatile auditoriums, Multiteatro has a reputation for putting on provocative one-person shows as well as local adaptations of contemporary classics.

Avenida Corrientes 1283, y Talcahuano, Tribunales (information 4382 9140/ tickets 5236 3000/www.multiteatro.com. ar). Subte B, Uruguay/bus 26, 60, 102.

Teatro Opera Allianz This classic auditorium on bustling Avenida Corrientes is the place to find big-budget musicals.

Avenida Corrientes 860, entre Suipacha y Esmeralda, Microcentro (4326 1335/www.operaallianz.com).

Subte B, Carlos Pellegrini or C, Diagonal Norte or D, 9 de Julio/bus 10, 17, 24, 29. Box office 10am-8pm daily. Tickets from AR$180. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map C5.

Teatro del Pueblo Dedicated to bringing national theatre to the public, the focus here is on works

by Argentinian playwrights.

Avenida Roque Sáenz Peña 943, entre Carlos Pellegrini y Suipacha, Microcentro (4326 3606/www. teatrodelpueblo.org.ar). Subte D, 9 de Julio/bus 10, 17, 140. Box office 5-8pm Wed-Sun. Shows varies.

Tickets AR$80-$180. No credit cards. Map C5.

Teatro San Martín The programme ranges from cast-iron classics to avant-garde experiments,

Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015/16 131

Performing Arts

Many of Buenos Aires’s biggest and glitziest theatres are concentrated along Avenida Corrientes, sandwiched between pizza parlours and bookshops.

But while Corrientes lays claim to the most high-profile shows, the independent venues dotted around Abasto and Almagro are home to some of the city’s most innovative acts.

But no theatre is a match for the Teatro Colón (see right), which has long been regarded as the city’s most illustrious venue, and recently celebrated the fifth anniversary of its reopening. It may be facing competition, however, from the new Centro Cultural Kirchner (see p120), whose concert hall is modelled after a giant blue whale. You’ll have to see it to believe it.

Theatre

!Teatro Nacional Cervantes The packed programme here includes Latin American and Spanish theatre and dance, as well as free film screenings of mainly Argentinian classics on Wednesdays at 6pm. The circular building is a work of art in its own right.

Libertad 815, y Avenida Córdoba, Tribunales (4816 4224/www. teatrocervantes.gov.ar). Subte D, Tribunales/bus 29, 39, 109. Box office 10am-9pm Wed-Sun. Shows Thu-Sun. Tickets from AR$75. No credit cards. Map D5.

DIEGO QUIROGA

NoAvestruz This intimate and cosy space offers a range of dance and theatre performances, shows for kids, films and live music. There’s also a bar and an art gallery and occasional courses on cinema and other artistic pursuits.

Humboldt 1857, y Costa Rica, Palermo (4777 6956/www.noavestruz.com.ar).

Bus 34, 39, 57, 93, 108. Box office 5-9pm Wed-Sat; 1hr before show Sun. Shows Wed-Sun. Tickets AR$120$250. No credit cards. Map H3.

El Portón de Sánchez A dance studio by day, this venue offers a contemporary programme featuring avant-garde troupes, plus plays that fall at the pricier, polished end of the indie spectrum.

Sánchez de Bustamante 1034, y Avenida Córdoba, Abasto (4863 2848/ elportondesanchez.com.ar). Bus 26, 29, 92, 99, 106, 109. Box office 9am-9pm Mon-Fri; 1hr before show Sat, Sun. Shows Thu-Sun. Tickets AR$120. No credit cards. Map E3.

Recommended Musical giant

Performing Arts

Suspended in mid-air, the ballena azul, or blue whale, is the concert hall in the new Centro Cultural Kirchner. As the largest cultural centre in Latin America, the converted post office has nine floors and dozens of rooms and galleries dedicated to music, literature and visual and performing arts, but the ballena azul is the pièce de résistance. Along with acoustics to rival those of the Teatro Colón (see p131), the space holds 1,750 spectators and has an impressive organ made up of 3,500 pipes. If you don’t manage to catch a performance, you can see the whale’s interior on a tour on Saturdays and Sundays. Tours run every 30 mins from 2.30pm to 5pm.

Sarmiento 151, y Bouchard, Microcentro (information 0800 3339 300/tickets 6841 6400/www.culturalkirchner. gob.ar). Subte B, LN Alem/bus 7, 20, 26, 152, 180. Box office 10am-6pm Mon, Tue. Shows Thu-Sun. Tickets free. Map C5.

and the works are staged in a building that’s a hymn to 1970s design. This central theatre also has a cinema showing international arthouse films.

Avenida Corrientes 1530, entre Paraná y Montevideo, Tribunales (0800 333 5254/complejoteatral.gob.ar). Subte B, Uruguay/bus 24, 26, 37, 60, 99, 102.

Box office 10am-10pm daily. Shows Wed-Sun. Tickets AR$65-$150.

Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D4. !Usina del Arte This 15,000 sq m cultural centre inside a former power station has a 1,200-seat concert hall and hosts free art exhibitions, as well as many music and dance performances. At weekends (11am and 5pm) there are free tours of this magnificent building.

Avenida Don Pedro de Mendoza y Caffarena, La Boca (www.usinadelarte. org). Bus 4, 20, 25, 29, 33, 53, 129, 130, 152, 159, 168, 195. Box office 1hr before shows. Shows varies.

Tickets free.

SMALLER SPACES

Actors Studio Alongside a varied programme featuring classic plays and a selection of outrageous original works, this long-running studio in Almagro also runs excellent acting classes.

Avenida Díaz Vélez 3842, entre Avenida Medrano y Jerónimo Salguero, Almagro (4983 9883/www.actors-studio.org).

Subte A, Castro Barros/bus 5, 8, 19, 36.

Box office 1hr before shows Fri-Sun. Shows Fri-Sun. Tickets AR$100. No credit cards. Map E2.

Belisario Club de Cultura Set in the heart of theatreland, this small venue is home to great experimental theatre, as well as regular circus-influenced performances.

Avenida Corrientes 1624, entre Rodríguez Peña y Montevideo, Tribunales (4373 3465/www. marcelosavignone.com). Subte B, Callao/bus 24, 26, 109. Box office from 7pm Fri, Sat; from 6.30pm Sun. Shows 9pm, 11pm Fri, Sat; 8pm Sun. Tickets AR$100-$120. No credit cards. Map D4.

El Camarín de las Musas This multipurpose space gets rave reviews for its highbrow productions.

The venue offers a constant selection of interesting and innovative theatre performances in intimate spaces. You can also enjoy a meal or drink in the lovely café before the show.

Mario Bravo 960, entre Tucumán y Avenida Córdoba, Abasto (4862 0655/ www.elcamarindelasmusas.com.ar).

Subte B, Medrano/bus 26, 92, 106, 127, 128, 140, 160, 168. Box office 1hr before shows. Shows varies.

Tickets AR$150. No credit cards.

Map F3.

La Carpintería A small but cosy theatre in Abasto, La Carpintería is a great option for

132 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015/16

innovative, high quality performances off the main theatre strip. Ever since opening its doors in 2010, this theatre has been attracting an impressive line-up, including big names such as the actor-director marvel, Marcelo Savignone. Arrive early to get tickets and take advantage of the warmly lit, exposed brick café for a glass of wine and a picada.

Jean Jaurès 852, entre San Luis y Tucumán, Abasto (4961 5092/ lacarpinteriateatro.com.ar). Subte B, Pueyrredon/bus 24, 26, 29, 41. Box office 1hr before shows. Shows Thu-Sun. Tickets AR$80-$120. No credit cards. Map E3.

El Galpón de Guevara El Galpón de Guevara opened in January 2014, and was especially designed to host independent physical theatre, aerial acrobatic and dance shows. Stop at the large bright bar for a round of ping-pong or table football prior to the show, before stepping through the curtain into the atmospheric stage area. To get in on the action yourself, try one of the theatre’s workshops, which are taught by renowned actors and directors.

Guevara 326, y Santos Dumont, Chacarita (4554 9877/www. galpondeguevara.com). Subte B, Dorrego/bus 39, 71, 90, 127, 140.

Box office varies. Shows varies.

Tickets AR$120-$250. No credit cards. Map H1.

Teatro Ciego The ‘blind theatre’ is more of a sensual experience than a traditional one. Let the company blindfold you, offer you dinner and tempt you to theatre and tango classes in pitch darkness.

Zelaya 3006, y Jean Jaurès, Abasto (6379 8596/www.teatrociego.org).

Subte B, Carlos Gardel/bus 24, 124.

Box office from 5pm daily. Shows daily. Tickets from AR$120. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map E3.

Teatro el Cubo Set in the gritty back streets of Abasto, Teatro el Cubo is one of the larger independent venues in the city. Located on a colourful street amongst other underground venues, this theatre offers an array of exciting spectacles to feast your eyes upon. Catch anything from sombre, serious plays to cutting-edge modern dance, or outlandish, show-stopping musicals.

Zelaya 3053, y Anchorena, Abasto (4963 2568/www.cuboabasto.com.ar).

Subte B, Carlos Gardel/bus 24, 29, 64, 140, 168, 188, 194. Box office 11am-8pm Tue-Sat. Shows Thu-Mon. Tickets AR$120-$160. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map E3. !Timbre 4 This cutting edge theatre presents works by cult director Claudio Tolcachir, and specialises in experimental plays (many of a provocative socio-political nature).

Housed in a lovely casa in arty Boedo, Timbre 4 also has occasional productions with English subtitles, great for those whose Spanish is not quite there yet, and a bar offering drinks and snacks.

Avenida Boedo 640, entre México y Avenida Independencia, and México 3554, entre Avenida Boedo y Maza, Boedo (4932 4395/www.timbre4.com).

Subte E, Boedo/bus 2, 56, 115, 126, 128, 160, 165, 180. Box office from 7pm Thu-Sun. Shows Thu-Mon. Tickets AR$120-$150. No credit cards. Map D1.

DIEGO QUIROGA

Tango

A bandeonista plays tango at a Subte station

The scene

Tango draws many foreigners to Buenos Aires, and is the reason many set up home here, too. Milongas can seem intimidating at first, so brush up on essential vocabulary with our tango glossary (see p134) before you go, or hire a tango guide such as María Lelia Ivancovich (www.marialeliadebsas.com.ar) to help you find your feet.

To sleep, eat and breathe the dance, stay at a tango hotel. Lina’s Tango Guesthouse (Estados Unidos 780, San Telmo, 4361 6817, www.linatango. com) and Caserón Porteño (Ciudad de la Paz 344, Colegiales, 4554 6336, www.caseronporteno.com) can both arrange classes and visits to milongas.

Classes and information

For the blossoming tanguero, there are numerous group lessons across the city, and most teachers speak some English. Milongas are often held after the class, but also look out for prácticas where you’re free to try out your newly acquired moves without the pressure of following the rules of the milonga. All the milongas listed here have resident teachers and usually offer classes while hundreds of couples offer private – and considerably more expensive – classes for all levels.

For complete beginners, classes at La Viruta (see p134) and La Catedral (see right) are fun and unintimidating ways to learn the basic steps. The excellent Escuela Argentina de Tango (Talcahuano 1052, 4312 4990, www.eatango.org) has locations in Microcentro’s Galerías Pacífico shopping centre and San Telmo, and offers classes with the

city’s top teachers all day, every day.

For a more contemporary style, tango school DNI (see right) has young, dynamic teachers, as does El Esquinazo (Gurruchaga 1218, Palermo, 3530 7725). Almagro bar Sr Duncan (see p84) offers free beginners’ classes at 8.30pm on Tuesdays, followed by a práctica.

Where to dance tango

Milongas are the perfect way to get to the heart of tango culture. Everyone is welcome, but a certain etiquette must be observed: milongas are not the place to drink too much and try out a few rusty moves.

To fit in, try taking the class beforehand; during the milonga don’t look anyone in the eye unless you are ready to dance with them. Dancefloors are usually packed, so the embrace is very close and fancy footwork and wide sweeps are not particularly welcome. Most milongas also include live music or a dance performance.

Schedules for milongas often change, so check with the venue, download the handy English language app Hoy Milonga – which has up-to-date information and a map showing milongas near you – or pick up a copy of the free Tango Map Guide from any of the venues listed below. The magazine Punto Tango (www. puntotango.com.ar) also has listings and news of tango events.

TRADITIONAL MILONGAS

At these milongas attire is formal and tango etiquette is strictly adhered to.

It’s often necessary to reserve a seat and men and women sit on opposite sides of the room. Men usually use the cabeceo, locking eyes with a woman, to request the next dance.

El Beso This is a bijou setting for night-time dances and classes with very high standards (not recommended for wobbly, shy beginners), most of them taught by La Academia Tango Milonguero (check www.laacademia tango.com for details). Saturday night milonga Las Morochas attracts an older crowd, while on Fridays the venue hosts the modern and gayfriendly milonga La Marshall.

1st floor, Riobamba 416, entre Avenida Corrientes y Lavalle, Once (4953 2794).

Subte B, Callao/bus 7, 12, 24, 37, 150, 168, 180. Open Classes varies. Milonga 8pm-2am Tue; 11pm-4.30am Thu-Fri; 5-11.30pm Sat; 10.30pm-4am Sun. Admission AR$80. No credit cards.

Map D4.

Club Gricel You can’t beat the atmosphere of this place for some serious tango fun. A regular clientele takes full advantage of the springy dancefloor and attractive lighting. If you stick around until 1am on Saturday nights, you’ll see the excellent show.

La Rioja 1180, entre Humberto 1º y Avenida San Juan, San Cristóbal (4957 7157/www.clubgriceltango.com. ar). Subte E, Urquiza/bus 20, 61, 118, 126. Open Classes 6.30-8pm Mon; 7-10pm Tue; 6.30-10pm Wed; 6-8pm Thu; 6-10pm Fri; 3.30-10.30pm Sat. Milonga 8pm-3am Mon, Thu; 10pm-3am Wed; 10pm-4am Fri; 10.30pm-4am Sat; 6pm-2am Sun. Admission AR$60-$80.

No credit cards. Map C1.

Confitería Ideal This busy spot attracts coffee drinkers during the day, but it also has a full schedule of daily tango classes (see website for details) and comes alive at night as a mainly post-office crowd swings by to dance to a live orchestra in the large space.

1st floor, Suipacha 384, y Avenida Corrientes, Microcentro (4328 7750/ www.confiteriaideal.com). Subte C, Diagonal Norte/bus 5, 6, 7, 9, 10, 24, 29, 39, 60, 67, 129, 140. Open Classes varies. Milonga 3-9pm daily.

Admission AR$50. No credit cards.

Map C5.

Avenida Scalabrini Ortiz 1331, entre Gorriti y Cabrera, Palermo (4832 6753/www.parakultural.com.ar). Bus 15, 39, 55, 110, 140. Open Classes 7-9pm, 9-11pm Mon, Tue, Fri; 2.30-4pm Wed; 8.30-10pm Thu; 8-9.30pm, 9.30-11pm Sat; 4-11pm Sun. Milonga after classes. Admission AR$60-$80.

No credit cards. Map G2.

MODERN MILONGAS

These milongas generally attract a younger crowd, have a more sociable atmosphere and are a good place to try out more contemporary moves. The dress code is not rigid and you’ll even see women dancing in flat shoes.

Buenos Ayres Club The great thing about Monday’s Bendita (blessed) and Wednesday and Sunday’s Maldita (damned) milongas is the fantastic live music from a young outfit called Orquesta Típica El Afronte. The musicians, including a row of bandoneonistas stretching and squeezing with passion, a wild pianist and a by-turns heartbroken and enraged vocalist, make this an unforgettable experience. On Tuesday nights, gender rules are turned on their head at gay milonga Tango Queer.

Perú 571, entre Venezuela y México, San Telmo (4331 1518/www. buenosayresclub.com). Bus 10, 22, 24, 26, 28, 29, 86. Open Classes 9-10.30pm Mon, Wed, Sun. Milonga after classes. Admission AR$80. No credit cards. Map B4. !La Catedral The atmosphere at this bohemian venue in Almagro is somewhere between post-punk/neo-goth and old-style circus/ music hall. There are good beginners’ classes on Tuesdays and folkloric classes on Sundays. Even if you’re not a dancer, it’s worth going to this cavernous space for a pitcher of sangria, a veggie snack or a fernet and Coke.

Sarmiento 4006, y Avenida Medrano, Almagro (mobile 15 5325 1630/www. lacatedralclub.com). Subte B, Medrano/ bus 24, 124. Open Classes varies, check website. Milonga after classes.

Admission AR$70. No credit cards. Map E2.

FREE La Glorieta Held year-round under the bandstand in a Belgrano park, this thoroughly romantic open-air milonga attracts dancers of all standards and ages as well as enchanted observers and dog-walkers. Sunday evenings are particularly popular when the crowd gets dolled up in its finest attire.

Barrancas de Belgrano, 11 de Septiembre, entre Sucre y Echeverría, Belgrano (4674 1026). Bus 15, 29, 55, 60, 64. Open Classes 5-7pm Sat, Sun. Milonga after classes. Admission Classes AR$70. Milonga donation.

Club La Independencia This traditional tango venue in the heart of San Telmo is also home to Thursday night’s Milonga en Orsay, which attracts a young crowd who come to drink, dance and listen to the live orchestra.

Avenida Independencia 572, entre Bolívar y Perú, San Telmo (4931 7977). Subte C, Independencia/bus 2, 8, 22, 29, 93. Open Classes 8.30pm Mon-Wed, Sun; 7.30pm, 9pm Thu; 9pm Sat. Milonga from 10pm Tue, Wed; from 10.30pm Sat, Sun. Admission Classes AR$60. Milonga AR$50. No credit cards. Map B4.

Salón Canning This large hall hosts a variety of different milongas, which attract a range of people, depending on the night. Particularly popular are Monday, Tuesday and Friday nights’ Parakultural events.

DNI An excellent spot for English speakers, DNI has a range of group and private classes for all levels. After your first free class, you can try out your new moves at the Saturday afternoon

Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015/16 133

DIEGO QUIROGA

Sabor a Tango This slick show is staged in the magnificent former Palazzo Rossini, Argentina’s first opera house, which dates all the way back to 1878.

Flamboyant tango choreography is interspersed with performances by drum-wielding gauchos and an anguished Evita crooning ‘Don’t Cry for Me Argentina’ from a balcony.

The three-course dinner includes all-night wine refills.

Juan Domingo Perón 2535, entre Larrea y Paso, Once (4953 8700/ www.saboratango.com.ar). Subte A, Alberti/bus 24, 95. Open from 8.30pm daily. Dinner 8.30pm. Show 10pm.

Tickets US$45-$90; US$120 with dinner. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D3.

Tango orchestra La Horgura sets the beat at Buenos Ayres Club (see p133)

práctica (4-8pm), which has live music and a friendly atmosphere. This beautiful old house also holds a unisex tango clothes and shoe shop, a health food restaurant and a bar.

Bulnes 1011, y Lavalle, Almagro (4866 6553/www.dni-tango.com). Subte B, Medrano/bus 26, 92, 106, 109, 128.

Open Classes varies, check website.

Admission AR$50-$65. No credit cards. Map F2.

Tango

Villa Malcolm Start with a class to prepare yourself for dancing into the early hours with the international crowd at this atmospheric old hall. It packs out for Sunday night’s Viva la Pepa, Monday night’s El Motivo, Fruto Dulce on Wednesdays and Saturdays, and Friday night’s Zum, all of which are modern milongas.

Avenida Córdoba 5064, entre Thames y Serrano, Villa Crespo (4772 9796).

Bus 34, 39, 55. Open Classes 7-10pm daily. Milonga after classes.

Admission AR$50-$70. No credit cards. Map G2. !La Viruta These popular milonga nights take place in a homely, basement-level community centre. Dancers of all ages and abilities come together for tango, and the milonga gets going around 1am, after the crowd has warmed up on the dancefloor with a sprinkling of salsa and rock ’n’ roll jiving. A full schedule of back-to-back classes ensures that this place is always busy.

Go on a Saturday to catch the show at 2am that’s included in the ticket price.

Armenia 1366, entre Cabrera y Niceto Vega, Palermo (4774 6357/ www.lavirutatango.com). Bus 15, 34, 39, 55, 168. Open Classes varies, check website. Milonga midnight-4am Wed, Thu, Sun; midnight-6am Fri, Sat. Admission AR$70-$80. No credit cards. Map G2.

Where to hear tango There are plenty of places to enjoy tango in its aural form. You can get a free taste of tango music from the bandoneón-wielding buskers on the streets of San Telmo, or at a number of neighbourhood bars, most notably at the historic Lo de Roberto (see p84), where fervent crooners of all ages perform to a young, bohemian crowd.

ND/Ateneo (see p129) is a serious venue for tango music, as is the Centro Cultural Torquato Tasso (Defensa 1575, San Telmo, 4307 6506, www.torquatotasso.com.ar). Look out for the fun, rock-inspired tango of Orquesta Típica Fernández Fierro (www.fernandezfierro.com).

Where to watch tango The most authentic and affordable place to watch tango is at a milonga, where there is usually a performance from invited professional dancers. Two of BA’s most atmospheric milongas are the free, outdoor Milonga del Indio, held every Sunday evening in San Telmo’s Plaza Dorrego, and Belgrano’s La Glorieta (see p133).

If you’re looking for a glitzier introduction to the genre, then a tango dinner show – aimed squarely at the tourist dollar – is certainly entertaining.

Splendid old Café Tortoni (see p21) and Confitería Ideal (see p133) are on the more affordable side of things and are highly atmospheric, as are the shows at the Centro Cultural Borges (see p120).

To catch street tango for the price of a tip dropped into a hat, head for calle Florida most afternoons, Caminito in La Boca during the day or San Telmo on Sundays.

134 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015/16

for anyway. Instead, Rojo is polished and flamboyant; in a word, it’s Faena.

Faena Hotel Buenos Aires, Martha Salotti 445, Puerto Madero (4952 4111/www.rojotango.com). Bus 2, 4, 20, 64, 129. Open 8.30pm-midnight daily.

Dinner 8.30pm. Show 10pm. Tickets US$220; US$290 with dinner. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map B5.

Complejo Tango A huge performance space deep inside an old house is the venue for this show filled with tango passion and complete with an edgy knife-fight dance by a lone hombre, scuffles in a bordello and an all-round impressively choreographed performance. This is one tanguería where the dinner is well worthwhile, and don’t miss the brilliant class beforehand.

Avenida Belgrano 2608, y Saavedra, San Cristóbal (4941 1119/www. complejotango.com.ar). Subte H, Venezuela/bus 56, 101, 188. Open from 7.30pm daily. Class 7.30pm.

Dinner 8.30pm. Show 10pm. Tickets US$55 show and class; US$120 show, dinner and class; US$200 show, dinner, class and VIP treatment. 20% discount online. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D2.

Esquina Homero Manzi The street corner where this establishment sits was immortalised in Homero Manzi’s tango ‘Sur’, and shows here attempt to recreate some of the atmosphere of bygone days. An energetic quintet is accompanied by alternating dancers and singers who belt out classics like ‘Malena’ and ‘El día que me quieras’.

Avenida San Juan 3601, y Avenida Boedo, Boedo (4957 8488/www. esquinahomeromanzi.com.ar). Subte E, Boedo/bus 20, 88, 91. Open 9-11.45pm daily. Dinner 9pm. Show 10pm.

Tickets AR$400; AR$900 with dinner.

Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D1.

Rojo Tango For the best tango show your money can buy, it doesn’t get any more deluxe than Rojo Tango. You’ll be greeted with a glass of champagne before an excellent three-course meal that includes the likes of beef carpaccio, loin of veal with potato tatin and dulce de leche crème brûlée. Granted, it doesn’t really break any rules, but that’s not what you came

Where to shop BA is an excellent place to bag a gorgeous pair of killer tango heels.

Some of Time Out’s favourite shoe shops for women are Comme Il Faut (see p100), Taconeando (Avenida Córdoba 4030, 2063 9671, www. taconeandoshoes.com.ar) and NeoTango (Sarmiento 1938, 4951 8694, www.neotangoshoes.com). As well as making super-comfortable heels, 2x4alpie (Apartment 3, Scalabrini Ortiz 1753, 4831 6522, www.2x4alpie. com) does a hip range of flat, trainer-style shoes for men and women.

Flabella (Suipacha 263, 4322 6036, www.flabella.com) has a fine collection of well-priced footwear, and can make shoes by hand in a couple of weeks to suit your specifications. For men’s shoes, try DNI (see p133) or Loló (Tomás de Anchorena 607, 4962 3860, www.facebook.com/lolotangoshoes), which offers impeccably constructed shoes. For clothes, try Segunda Generación (Alsina 1569, 4382 2582, www.2gen.com.ar), which supplies traditional and modern tango clothing.

Tango glossary milonga - a tango dance event; can also refer to a style of music. cabeceo - a man’s slight nod of the head in the direction of a female he wants to dance with. She accepts by nodding. tanda - a set of three to five songs in the same style separated by a cortina of non-tango music, when dancers select their partner for the next tanda. abrazo - the tango embrace. básico - the basic eight-step on which other steps are based. giro - a turn. orquesta típica - a traditional tango orchestra consisting of 8 to 12 musicians, and usually a bandoneón. ocho - a turn in a figure of eight.

Hotels

Photograph: Home Hotel

Hotels

136

Apart-hotels

146

Hostels

147

Telos (love hotels)

148

Hotel index

148

Hotels

CasaSur Palermo (see p142)

The essentials

The ever-rising black market dollar rate means that those in possession of greenbacks may find themselves able to afford more luxurious accommodation than they previously imagined. Many hotels also have discounts for customers paying in cash, so be sure to enquire before parting with your plastic. From French palaces like the Mansión at the Four Seasons Hotel (see p141) and tango academies such as Lina’s Tango Guesthouse (see p133) to new, yet classic hotels like the Hotel Clásico (see p143), there’s no doubt you’ll find something to suit your needs. More modern new offerings include Anselmo (see p138), on San Telmo’s busiest square, and The Brick Hotel (see p146) in Recoleta, which has new owners, a new name and a stunning new look.

For the best room that money can buy, see the list of BA’s most sumptuous suites on page 140, while those more reluctant to part with their pesos might prefer BA’s hostels (see p147). If you want a short-term rental, see our list of apart-hotels (see p146).

To enjoy a rooftop drink in the summer sun, whether you’re a guest or not, head to the gorgeous top floor bars of Hotel Pulitzer (see p138) or CasaSur Palermo (see p142).

PRICES, BOOKINGS AND SERVICES The hotels reviewed below are divided by area. We have noted price categories by using one to four dollar signs to represent the price of a double room, as follows: Deluxe $$$$, over US$350/ AR$3295 for a double; High-end $$$, US$200-$350/AR$1883-$3295; Moderate $$, US$100-$199/AR$940$1882; Budget $, US$50-$99/AR$470$939. Turn to pages 146-148 for the apart-hotels, hostels and telos (love hotels) sections.

To find out where to stay outside BA, see Getting Away on page 160.

The prices in this chapter – given in US dollars – are the high season rates for the cheapest double room as quoted to us by hotels, and include VAT (called ‘IVA’ and charged at 21 per cent) and breakfast, though it’s best to check what’s included when you reserve.

The Centre

HOW TO USE THE LISTINGS This section brings together our pick of the city’s hotels. ! denotes a hotel that we would particularly recommend.

A signals a hotel whose bar is worth visiting, where you are welcome for a drink whether or not you are a guest.

D means free Wi-Fi for guests.

NEW denotes a hotel that has opened in the last six months or so.

Casa Calma Offset your carbon guilt with a stay at this eco-friendly hotel, complete with bamboo bicycles for guest use and double-glazed windows that shut out the elements and city noise. The bright, spacious rooms have a Scandinavian air, and there has been no skimping on luxury at the expense of planet-saving.

Deluxe suites come with a mini sauna, four-jet showers and all rooms have

136 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015/16

HIGH-END

Alvear Art Hotel With its gleaming marble floors, high ceilings and muted colours, the luminous lobby sets the scene for what’s to come. The Art Hotel offers the same luxury as the Alvear Palace Hotel (see p141); the two penthouse suites on the 15th floor are the pick of the crop, but the remaining 137 rooms include stunning marble jacuzzis and Nespresso machines. BA’s top mixologist, Tato Giovannoni, designed the drinks menu, while the roof holds a spa and heated pool.

Suipacha 1036, y Avenida Santa Fe, Retiro (4114 3400/www.alvearart.com).

Subte C, San Martín/bus 10, 15, 17, 26, 39, 60, 70, 99, 100, 106, 141.

Rates $$$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D5. DA

jacuzzis large enough to bathe a harem.

The ‘calm house’ delivers serenity through small touches: yoga mats in rooms, balconies draped with vines and healthy, hearty breakfasts served straight to your bed.

Suipacha 1015, y Marcelo T de Alvear, Retiro (4312 5000/www.casacalma hotel.com). Subte C, San Martín/bus 10, 17, 26, 39, 45, 59, 60, 61, 106, 108. Rates $$$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D5. D Plaza Hotel Buenos Aires If grand and traditional suits you better than boutique, this might be the place for you. The Plaza Hotel BA is over 100 years old, and the entire establishment simply oozes old-world charm. The Plaza Bar is a glorious, Bauhaus-esque design treat, while the Plaza Grill is reminiscent of the banquet hall of an Austro-Hungarian count, with a colonial twist – note the fabulous velvet mechanical fans. The hotel’s location, overlooking Plaza San Martín, is one of the best in the city, and amenities include a fine fitness centre, a leafy terrace pool, solarium and a dry sauna.

Florida 1005, y Marcelo T de Alvear, Retiro (4318 3069/www.plazahotelba. com). Subte C, San Martín/bus 5, 6, 7, 9, 20, 23, 70, 75, 92, 106, 109, 152.

Rates $$$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D5. D A

MODERATE

Arroyo Hotel Fresh from a head-to-toe makeover that revived it from drab ’80s decor, the Arroyo Hotel fills a void in its neighbourhood. It’s no mean feat to find affordable hotels in the city that are decorated with custom art and design and within walking distance of BA’s main attractions, let alone in a barrio typically dominated by travelling businessmen. Retiro’s Arroyo Hotel manages just that. Night owls will love its proximity to Florería Atlántico (see p74) and BASA Bar (see p74), while culture seekers can walk just a few blocks to the Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes (see p121) and the Museo de Arte Hispanoamericano (see p118). And should you want to escape the city, the Retiro bus terminal is just a stone’s throw away. If that weren’t enough, the stunning mural by artist Eloísa Ballivian in the lobby will surely convince you to book a night.

Suipacha 1359, entre Juncal y Arroyo, Retiro (5276 7700/www.arroyotowers. com). Subte C, San Martín/bus 5, 6, 7, 9, 10, 17, 22, 33, 45, 59, 67, 92, 101, 106. Rates $$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D5. D

Rooney’s Boutique Hotel This lovely boutique hotel, just a stone’s throw from the Obelisco, has a literary past, as do so many places in BA: it was once the residence of the Argentinian writer and poet Leopoldo Lugones. Today, the 14 rooms and suites still have beautiful original wood floors, gilded mirrors, high ceilings and lovely chandeliers. Designer Paula Piatti reworked the original style with a palette of cream and soft green to create a calm downtown haven in a busy neighbourhood filled with theatres and tango dancehalls. Guests have access to a lounge bar, a café and tango patio. Activities and tours can be arranged as part of a package deal.

Sarmiento 1775, y Avenida Callao, Tribunales (5252 5060/www.rooneys boutiquehotel.com). Subte B, Callao/bus 5, 6, 12, 90, 98, 102, 124, 146, 150.

Rates $$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D4. D

Hotels

Hotel Pulitzer At first glance, the Pulitzer appears to be a stylish boutique hotel, but it actually has more than 100 rooms in its repertoire. And even though its size and services are those of a major hotel, and include an onsite bar and gym, it

maintains the attention and care of a smaller establishment. Though the Pulitzer is quiet most of the year, in the summer months the rooftop Sky Bar turns into one of the city’s hippest gathering places, with invited DJs and expertly-made cocktails. But when the weather is too cold to enjoy the rooftop, head to nearby bars like Shout (see p74) and BASA Bar (see p74).

Maipú 907, y Paraguay, Retiro (4316 0800/www.hotelpulitzer.com.ar). Subte C, San Martín/bus 50, 56, 67, 70, 101, 106, 130, 132, 140, 150. Rates $$.

Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D5. D A

Palo Santo (see p144)

138 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015/16

San Telmo and south of the centre MODERATE

NEW Anselmo Transforming a car park into a beautiful, modern hotel takes a certain amount of vision, but that didn’t stop Curio Collection by Hilton from taking on the challenge. The result is an elegant hotel on San Telmo’s busiest square, Plaza Dorrego, with 50 comfortable, stylish and surprisingly peaceful rooms. All but two face the stunning indoor patio, which is flanked by a chic almacén and modern Argentinian restaurant and also holds the hotel’s art gallery. Check out the latest exhibition before exploring the urban art of the surrounding streets.

Don Anselmo Aieta 1069, y Bethlem, San Telmo (5279 9000/www,curio collection3.hilton.com). Bus 4, 8, 22, 24, 28, 29, 61, 62, 93, 103, 126, 130, 143. Rates $$. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map B4. D Castelar Hotel & Spa In business since 1929, this hotel deftly combines period atmosphere and modern amenities. The integrity of the original design is intact – one of the rooms even doubles as a museum to the memory of the renowned Spanish poet and playwright Federico García Lorca, who spent a year in exile living

at the Castelar. Some of the interior rooms have limited light and are a tad melancholic, which is fine for an exiled poet, perhaps; other guests may prefer one of the rooms overlooking the tree-lined Avenida de Mayo.

Meanwhile, there’s a fine Turkish spa in the basement, with steam rooms, a sauna and massage facilities for men and women. Open to non-residents too, this is one of BA’s more reasonably priced spas.

Avenida de Mayo 1152, entre Salta y Lima, Monserrat (4383 5000/www. castelarhotel.com.ar). Subte A, Lima/ bus 2, 5, 8, 10, 17, 39, 60, 64, 67, 105, 129. Rates $$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map C4. DA Hotel Babel Once home to a multinational community of late 19th-century immigrant families, this renovated conventillo-style house continues to welcome visitors from all parts of the globe, maintaining the tradition of a hotchpotch of languages that inspired the hotel’s name. Located within walking distance of Plaza Dorrego, the intimate lodging has all the charm and personalised attention of a guesthouse.

Nine air-conditioned rooms surround a small patio and are compact and pared down. Flat-screen televisions and chic bathroom suites add a touch of sophistication, and in the modest bar and lounge area you can browse books or contemplate the artwork on sale, while the obliging staff prepare your tipple of choice.

Balcarce 946, entre Estados Unidos y Carlos Calvo, San Telmo (4300 8300/ www.hotelbabel.com.ar). Bus 10, 24, 29, 74, 195. Rates $$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map B4. D Moreno Hotel A stunning art deco exterior forms the shell of this seven-floor boutique hotel, with an interior that runs along minimalist lines interspersed with dazzling touches left over from the roaring 1920s, such as glazed wall-tiles, stained-glass windows and wrought-iron lifts. The rooms are generously sized, with whirlpool baths and either a balcony or views of the church dome next door.

Gastronomes shouldn’t miss the chance to dine in the hotel’s hyper-modern restaurant, Aldo’s (see p31) and you can also catch live acts at basement music venue Bebop Club (see p130).

Moreno 376, entre Balcarce y Defensa, San Telmo (6091 2000/www.moreno buenosaires.com). Subte E, Bolívar/bus 2, 8, 20, 22, 29. Rates $$ double.

Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map B5. D San Telmo Luxury Suites Once through the gorgeous doors of this hotel, you’d never guess bustling

Plaza Dorrego was just a few blocks away. But prime location and tranquillity aren’t this hotel’s only charms. The beautifully restored antique home dates back to 1867: original wood beams, floor tiles and a chandelier rescued from a Jesuit church take you back to a bygone era, while the modern decor provides comfort and style. All 12 luxury rooms have a living area and mezzanine level and are kitted out with Philippe Starck lights and mirrors, Nespresso machines, iPod docks and original artwork. Before exploring one of BA’s most artistic and charming barrios, head to the leafy roof terrace and admire the view. The kind staff will be happy to help with restaurant recommendations.

Chile 437, entre Bolívar y Defensa, San Telmo (4343 1888/www.santelmo luxury.com). Bus 10, 17, 29, 62, 64, 70, 74, 152. Rates $$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map A4. D BUDGET

Monserrat Apart Hotel Sandwiched between the centre and San Telmo, this hotel offers easy access to many of the city’s top landmarks.

Granted, every room has a microwave,

but despite its name, this is more of a hotel than an apart-hotel. Amenities include plasma screens, free Wi-Fi, comfy beds with crisp white sheets and a modern red and white decor. But what sets the hotel apart is the spa on the top floor. Have a massage before trying out the heated indoor pool, jacuzzi and steam room.

Salta 560, y Venezuela, Monserrat (4124 7500/www.hotelmonserratba. com). Subte C, Independencia/bus 2, 10, 17, 23, 39, 91. Rates $ double.

Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map C4. D Patios de San Telmo The poor immigrant families who crammed into this restored conventillo (tenement-style structure) in the 19th century would be dazzled by its latest incarnation as a boutique hotel. Light streams through high windows into sleek rooms and suites, the best of these look out onto a series of palatial tiled patios, where guests can sit with a pre-dinner drink under a canopy of stars. The architect owners have cleverly combined Baroque motifs with contemporary elegance, and thrown in a permanent art exhibition to boot: dotted around the three-storey

BA’s most sumptuous suites

building are quirky statues, photos and modern prints by local artists.

There’s also a ground floor café that caters to coeliacs and vegans.

Chacabuco 752, entre Avenida Independencia y Chile, San Telmo (4307 0480/www.patiosdesantelmo. com.ar). Subte C, Independencia/bus 10, 17, 24, 86, 129. Rates $ double.

Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map B4. D Posada Gotan The traveller who favours a bohemian atmosphere will love Posada Gotan, a cosy bed and breakfast in Boedo, a barrio that has yet to be overrun with tourists. A typical neighbourhood casa chorizo, the house had been left in ruins until owners Thibaud and Gabriela blessed it with a full restoration. They lend a personal touch to every aspect of the business, from recommendations on the best spots in Boedo and tips on how to navigate the city, right down to a breakfast spread that includes bread baked by Thibaud and home-made yoghurt. The beautiful house also exhibits paintings by local artists and, if you fancy it, offers a lovely afternoon tea.

Sánchez de Loria 1618, y Pavón, Boedo (4912 3807/www.posadagotan. com). Subte E, Urquiza/bus 4, 96, 127, 181, 195. Rates $ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V (only through PayPal).

Map C1. D

Puerto Madero DELUXE

Hotels

Hotel Panamericano

Faena Imperial Suite The extravagance of Faena’s regular rooms puts most BA residents’ flats to shame, and then there’s the Imperial Suite. Take advantage of the ten-person dining room by asking the suite’s dedicated butler to organise a lavish dinner party for you and your friends. If your mates are all back at home, make them jealous with Instagram shots of the two-story suite’s stunning views over Puerto Madero and floor-to-ceiling arabescato marble bathrooms. See right.

Alvear Royal Suite The Alvear modelled its poshest suite after a Parisian apartment, even if it’s the kind of Parisian apartment that only exists

in films (and luxury hotels). The style may be French, but the bathrooms are decked out in Italian Botticino marble, the floors are made of Slavonian oak, and the paintings and sculptures are courtesy of Argentinian artists. Catch up on your emails in the suite’s study, or go for all out relaxation with the bathrooms’ (yes, that’s plural) hydro-massage tubs and LCD TVs. See p141.

Panamericano Penthouse Gaze out on the city’s iconic panorama with views of Avenida 9 de Julio, the Teatro Colón and the Obelisco from the comfort of Panamericano’s penthouse.

Considered the hotel’s crowning jewel, the two-floor suite includes a staircase

140 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015/16

carved out of Carrara marble replete with mahogany railings and an atmosphere so tranquil you’d never know you were right above BA’s most bustling street. Carlos Pelligrini 551 (4348 5000/www. panamericano.us).

Four Seasons La Mansión Presidential Suite If you’re going to shell out for a suite at the Four Seasons, there’s no shame in staying in; skip the dinner reservations and let the full-service kitchen and on-call butler make a restaurant worthy-meal. After a lavish dinner, enjoy views of the Four Season’s gardens and pools from your very own fully furnished, 19sq m balcony. See p141.

Faena Hotel Buenos Aires There really is nowhere like the uniquely ostentatious Faena Hotel Buenos Aires. If you are looking for a truly romantic and memorable getaway, the Faena experience is the one to choose. Designed by the one and only Philippe Starck, the hotel is sensual, sexy and sleek with exotic reds and contemporary whites and is housed inside the shell of a disused red-brick grain silo. The food at the El Bistro restaurant is exquisite, with a marvellously modern tasting menu, while El Mercado (see p40) serves more traditional but equally delicious Argentinian food. Decorative motifs include gashes of cut red glass in antique bohemian style, also on sale in the boutique shop, which is open to mere mortals too, as are the Library Lounge (see p76), the lovely pool bar, the cabaret theatre and the spa. For information on Faena’s tango shows, see page 134.

Martha Salotti 445, Dique 2 (4010 9000/www.faena.com). Subte B, LN Alem/bus 2, 61, 62, 64, 103, 143, 152.

Rates $$$$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map B5. DA HIGH-END

Hotel Madero This hotel is aimed at business travellers, but don’t let that put you off.

The chic and well-located 197-room lodgings celebrated its tenth anniversary in 2014, and has plenty to offer couples and families, including a

rooftop pool and the popular open-plan Red Restó & Lounge. In fact, the sleek restaurant’s loyal following of local customers is proof that this is more than just another bland business hotel.

Other draws include the White Bar – which specialises in healthy and fresh fruit juices – a well-equipped spa and health club, a heated indoor pool, and a massage room and solarium. The upper floors afford stunning views of downtown Buenos Aires and the rooms are tastefully decorated.

Rosario Vera Peñaloza 360, Dique 2, (5776 7777/www.hotelmadero.com).

Subte B, LN Alem/bus 2, 4, 8, 20, 61, 62, 64, 86, 103, 111, 129, 143, 152.

Rates $$$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map B5. DA

Recoleta DELUXE

Algodon Mansion When only gilded ceilings and your own private butler will do, this sumptuous hotel delivers all the goods you have ever wanted. Tucked away on a quiet Recoleta street, just a few steps from the exclusive emporiums on Avenida Alvear, this 1912 belle époque mansion has ten impeccably-styled suites, each of which comes with a palatial bed and opulent bathroom.

The teak-decked roof terrace boasts an inviting pool and open-air lounge, and the hotel’s luxurious spa, cognac bar and James Bond-worthy Algodon Wine Bar restaurant complete the decadent package.

Montevideo 1647, entre Guido y Quintana (3530 7777/www.algodon mansion.com). Bus 17, 39, 59, 60, 67, 100. Rates $$$$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map E5. DA

Four Seasons Hotel If you are looking for star-worthy lodgings, the Four Seasons will definitely not disappoint. With a dazzling reputation (Madonna, Shakira and Bono are all known to have been Alvear Palace Hotel guests of the hotel), this 12-storey During Argentina’s golden age, the monument to taste and elegance boasts expression ‘as rich as an Argentinian’ an immaculate garden, complete with was shorthand in Europe for an outdoor pool. The oriental-style spa ostentatious wealth. The economic provides tranquillity in a bottle and a situation might be a little more masseur’s touch, and the 27 suites are complex these days, but the sumptuous light-drenched, spacious gems. Set Alvear still reeks of money and apart from the main hotel is the historic old-school class. This hotel fills half a La Mansión. This belle époque jewel block of the lavish Avenida Alvear, looks and smells of old-world and its 192 rooms are an ocean of grandeur, with four gold-leafed opulence in rich burgundies, with reception rooms, seven luxurious suites antique French furniture and ample and one extremely imposing staircase. space. The lobby is a cathedral to It can be rented by the suite, by the power and riches, with gracious staff floor or (for A-list one-namers) by the house-load. There’s also the wonderful who never make you feel like an Elena restaurant (see p40), where you imposter in paradise, even if you can enjoy Sunday brunch, and the patently are one. Among the hotel’s Pony Line Bar (see p76). bars and restaurants is the recently Posadas 1086, y Cerrito (4321 1200/ opened art-deco Champagne Bar, and two of the city’s most illustrious dining www.fourseasons.com). Bus 17, 67, 70, 93, 100, 106, 152. Rates $$$$ double. establishments. A buffet lunch or a high tea in the spectacular L’Orangerie Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D5. DA is the best way for non-guests to soak Hub Porteño up the hotel’s ambience, while La Bourgogne restaurant is a gastronomic The well-connected owner of 11-room boutique hotel Hub Porteño makes it legend here in the city once known as his mission to personalise each guest’s the Paris of South America. stay. Choose from a host of ‘miniAvenida Alvear 1891, entre Avenida experiences’: how about a tour of BA’s Callao y Ayacucho (4808 2100/www. most exclusive boutiques with your alvearpalace.com). Bus 17, 60, 61, 67, very own personal shopper and 92, 93, 101, 102, 110, 130. Rates chauffeur? Or a tango-tastic day of $$$$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map E5. DA workshops and midnight milongas? As

for the hotel itself, it’s clear from the moment you walk through the opulent marble entrance that no expense has been spared: pictures from Amalia Fortabat’s private collection hang on the walls and every room is adorned with antique furniture, a Nespresso machine and an iPad. The leafy roof terrace and gourmet restaurant Tarquino (see p42) complete a very pretty picture.

Rodríguez Peña 1967, entre Avenida Alvear y Posadas (3220 6600/www. hubporteno.com). Bus 10, 37, 60, 62, 102. Rates $$$$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map E5. DA Park Hyatt Buenos Aires Contradictory as it might seem, opulence and minimalism are the design imperatives at one of the city’s most luxurious places of rest. The entrance to the hotel is a portrait of neoclassical columns, marble floors and cast-iron gates, while the rooms themselves speak to a 21st-century sensibility. The hotel boasts a vinoteca with over 3,000 bottles of Argentinian wines (including some of the best malbecs ever poured), a cheese room (that’s right: a cheese room) and three restaurants. By day, succumb to the delights of the Ahin Wellness Spa and its 25-metre pool. By night, enjoy a spot of al fresco dining on the terraces, before retiring to the Oak Bar, where a fire warms a room decked out in antique wooden panels and leather armchairs in the style of a posh gentlemen’s club.

Hotels Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015/16 141

Avenida Alvear 1661, entre Montevideo y Rodríguez Peña (5171 1234/www.buenosaires.park.hyatt.com).

Bus 17, 60, 61, 67, 93, 124, 152.

Rates $$$$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D4.DA HIGH END

Mio Buenos Aires Owned by the Catena clan – Argentina’s most famous family of winegrowers – this Recoleta hotel is, unsurprisingly, filled with viticultural touches. Both wine buffs and interior design fanatics will appreciate the gorgeous French oak barrel doors, the champagne dispenser and fine selection of wines in every room, as well as the muted, earthy colours of the hotel decor. The modern rooms are all equipped with Nespresso machines, iPod docks and balconies, and some have a living area, while the bathrooms contain sweet-smelling L’Occitane products. There’s a spa and pool and if you opt for one of the terrace suites, you get your very own outdoor jacuzzi.

Avenida Quintana 465, y Ayacucho (5295 8500/www.miobuenosaires.com).

Bus 10, 37, 60, 62, 102, 110, 130.

Rates $$$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map E5. DA MODERATE

Esplendor Plaza Francia Nestled among Recoleta’s finest greenery, this stylish and elegant hotel has 49 rooms with comfortable beds and contemporary comforts. Ask for a front-facing room for stunning views of the park, or even better, a top floor suite with picture-perfect views of the Río de la Plata and northern suburbs.

The Esplendor also boasts one of the best buffet breakfasts in the city; fresh fruit, muesli, scrambled eggs and pretty much anything else you can think of are all on offer. Just the thing to prepare you for a day’s sightseeing in the nearby area.

Eduardo Schiaffino 2189, y Avenida del Libertador (4807 7400/www. esplendorplazafrancia.com). Bus 17, 61, 62, 67, 92, 130. Rates $$ double.

Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map C5.D

Hotels

Design Suites & Towers The lobby sets the tone for the hip and seemingly ever-expanding mini chain Design Suites. It has the communal, relaxed ambiance of a backpacker’s

hostel – one frequented by wealthy young hipsters. The well-lit, minimalist suites come in three sizes: standard, for one or two people, and larger suites for up to four (five if agreed in advance).

Booking a room also gets you access to a fitness centre around the corner. At night, eat at the hotel’s sophisticated restaurant, open to the public, which boasts a great wine selection and an appealing menu.

Marcelo T de Alvear 1683, entre Rodríguez Peña y Montevideo (4814 8700/www.designsuites.com). Subte D, Callao/bus 10, 29, 39, 60, 132, 152.

Rates $$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D4. D

Nuss

142 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015/16

Other locations San Martín 780, Microcentro (5256 8800); Guatemala 4931, Palermo (5217 5700); Fitz Roy 2172, Palermo (4772 7070).

Palermo DELUXE

Nuss This elegant former convent is located just steps away from lively Plaza Serrano with its shops, bars and restaurants, so that despite your serene accommodation choice, your stay here will most likely be more about hedonism, in one form or another, than asceticism. But if you’re determined to remain cloistered away for a weekend of uninterrupted rest and relaxation, Nuss’s comfortable, contemporary rooms, infused with an understated oldschool sophistication, are ideal. A small gym and sauna are complemented by a rooftop terrace, where you can take a dip in the pool, though it’s more ornamental than Olympic-size.

El Salvador 4916, y Jorge Luis Borges (4833 8100/www.nusshotel.com). Bus 34, 39, 55, 168. Rates $$$$ double.

Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3. D HIGH-END

NEW CasaSur Palermo The hoteliers behind CasaSur Art Hotel and CasaSur Bellini have brought their expert touch to Palermo Hollywood.

The newest addition to the family is just as stylish as its forbears, with each of

its 61 rooms boasting smart design, chic black and white and natural wood tones and an expansive balcony. Tempting though it may be to lounge poolside or in the beautiful spa all day, be sure to take a spin around the barrio on one of the hotel’s free bikes, or you can always take advantage of the hotel gym. The crown jewel here though is the sweeping roof top terrace, which is open to the public from October to April. With a full service bar and panoramic views of the surrounding area, it’s sure to quickly become the city’s hottest spot.

Costa Rica 6032, y Arévalo (4770 9452/www.casasurhotel.com). Bus 39, 57, 93, 95, 108, 111, 151. Rates $$$.

Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H3. DA Other locations Avenida Callao 1823, Recoleta (4515 0085); Cabello 3780, Palermo (4807 4848).

Fierro Hotel Fierro Hotel has all the amenities you’d expect from a five-star hotel (with the same mattresses as BA’s Hyatt to prove it) yet still retains its intimate boutique feel. The red and black rooms are spacious and all have balconies and original art on the walls. Because it’s cool and because it’s Palermo Hollywood, rooms are complete with iPod docks and suite guests have iPads at their disposal. But for something really special, book the one and only terrace suite with its own private parrilla and outdoor jacuzzi. The roof-terrace pool is small but sweet, complete with a dry sauna, but the

highlight is the lovely garden surrounded by palm trees – a perfect spot for a pre-dinner cocktail (and there are good’uns, including Pimm’s). While you’re downstairs, be sure to make dinner reservations at the hotel’s lovely restaurant, Uco (see p52).

Soler 5862, entre Ravignani y Carranza (3220 6800/www.fierrohotel. com). Subte D, Ministro Carranza/bus 12, 39, 57, 60, 67. Rates $$$ double.

Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H3. D

just three guest bedrooms in their impeccably restored 1920s house, and they fill up – fast. The Santa Rita suite, with a separate living area and balcony, is the pick of the bunch. It has a staircase leading down to the garden, where gigantic potted plants, a banana tree, a swimming pool and a pet parrot create the perfect tropical paradise.

Delicious home-cooked breakfasts are served with love, and the attentive hosts offer a complete concierge service at no extra charge. During high season, there’s a minimum stay of two nights.

Cabrera 5855, y Ravignani (4777 7668/www.cabreragarden.com). Bus 39, 93, 108, 111, 140, 151, 168.

Rates $$ double. Credit AmEx, V. Map H2. D

The Glu Hotel The Glu was conceived and built as a hotel from the ground up, so instead of cramming the odds and ends of every end-of-line designer sale into rooms the size of walk-in wardrobes, here the smallest room measures 35sq m, and is decorated in irreproachably minimalist style. Immaculate rosewood furnishings, buff leather sofas and spotless linen bedclothes are all pleasing to the eye and to the touch.

There’s a spa downstairs with a sauna and an invigorating Scottish shower.

And no, that’s not a thorough soaking by icy, needle-sharp, sideways-on rain, or a steady Dundee drizzle or a Glasgow general precipitation. Instead, it’s an invigorating shower endowed with extra powerful jets.

Godoy Cruz 1733, y Gorriti (4831 4646/www.thegluhotel.com). Bus 34, 55, 140, 151. Rates $$$ double.

Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2. D

!Legado Mítico Let’s face it: theme hotels rarely work outside Las Vegas; only on the Strip does it really matter whether your bellhop is dressed as a Roman centurion or Sammy Davis Jr. So kudos to the designers of Legado Mítico, who have created a themed boutique hotel that doesn’t sacrifice comfort and style to gimmickry. Each of its 11 spacious rooms is devoted to a famous figure from Argentinian history, including tango genius Carlos Gardel, beloved author Jorge Luis Borges and, it hardly

Hotel Clásico

needs saying, former First Lady Eva Perón. The rooms’ decorations honour their respective themes, with books, photographs and posters that not only look good but are genuinely illuminating. But don’t worry, you won’t be tested on any of this, and there’s plenty of stuff for boneheads too, including large-screen TVs, a pretty terrace with comfy loungers and a bar and breakfast room.

Gurruchaga 1848, entre Costa Rica y Nicaragua (4833 1300/www.legado mitico.com). Bus 15, 34, 36, 39, 140.

Rates $$$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3. D Mine Hotel Boutique Atmospherically lit to accentuate the positive in both its design and its guests, this first-class boutique hotel is decked out in brown and neutral tones and funky furniture that looks like it came straight out of a swinging 1960s bachelor pad – but cooler. Mine’s 20 rooms are retro without feeling stuffy, and original without trying too hard.

The downstairs café, where breakfast is served, is a cheerful sort of place to start the day and meet other likeminded travellers, if you’re so inclined.

There’s also an attractive swimming pool in the garden out back.

Gorriti 4770, entre Malabia y Armenia (4832 1100/www.minehotel.com). Bus 15, 34, 39, 55, 106, 110, 140, 151.

Rates $$$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2. D Ultra Hotel With a large, well-planned ground floor that lets hotel guests and visitors circulate through its eclectic spaces and come full circle, Ultra has a level of design savvy other boutique hotels would kill for. Shift harmoniously between the trendy lobby, the dark wood and leather of the library lounge, and a bright, shabby-chic conservatorystyle cafeteria. Spacious rooms, exceptionally friendly and helpful staff and a rooftop terrace with a pool are just the cherry on the cake.

Gorriti 4929, y Gurruchaga (4833 9200/www.hotelultra.com). Bus 15, 34, 39, 55, 106, 110, 140, 141, 151, 168.

Rates $$$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2.D MODERATE

Cabrera Garden Boutique Guesthouse Cabrera Garden is the holiday home you wish you had, and hosts Norman and Robert the wonderful friends you wish were looking after it. There are

!Home Hotel It’s not, truth be told, very homely at all at Home. Unless your house boasts flawless design, vintage wallpaper in every room, spa services, a personal shopper and is ecologically friendly to boot. Each of the rooms at this boutique hotel has its own, tasteful look, and super stylish loft apartments are available for further privacy. The breakfast is presented like a tray studded with jewels: a thimble of juice here, a shot of yoghurt there, bread, cheese, jam and an elegant morsel of chocolate ganache, and lots of good coffee. Book a suite beside the azure blue pool or a room with a view of the English-style garden. Guests and visitors can truly make themselves at home in the lovely restaurant and bar, or by indulging in a hot stone massage, a spot of reflexology or a relaxing facial. Alternatively, head out into the city by booking one of the many tours.

Ask about the minimum stay during the peak season summer months.

Honduras 5860, entre Carranza y Ravignani (4778 1008/www.home buenosaires.com). Bus 39, 57, 93, 111, 140, 151, 166, 168. Rates $$ double.

Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H2. DA Ilum When you can’t decide between a city break in Buenos Aires or a relaxing retreat on a Thai island, Ilum delivers the best of both worlds. Buddha

Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015/16 143

Hotels

L’Hôtel Palermo L’Hôtel is a little slice of Provence in the heart of Palermo. Weeping willows drape over cobbled pathways, restored antique furniture could be straight out of a grand château, and then there’s the ‘secret garden’. This secluded oasis has a small but perfectly formed swimming pool, manicured lawn, shady trees, conservatory and high, ivy-covered walls. If you’re hiding from the paparazzi, this is the place to do it – they’d never suspect you were just one block from the perpetually buzzing Plaza Serrano. L’Hôtel’s 23 suites – the best of which have garden views and jacuzzis – are spaced across two buildings, and despite the proximity to BA’s nightlife hub, deliver a surprisingly silent night’s sleep. The hotel’s concierge can also plan your entire BA-and-beyond itinerary, in as much detail as you like.

Thames 1562, entre Honduras y Pasaje Soria (4831 7198/www. lhotelpalermo.com). Bus 34, 39, 55, 140, 151, 166, 168. Rates $$$ double.

Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2. D

NEW Hotel Clásico Though located conveniently in the middle of modern Palermo, Hotel Clásico pays homage to a classic porteño aesthetic. The belle époque façade looks like it’s come straight from one of Recoleta’s most old school avenidas, but once inside you’ll find all the modern amenities, like flatscreen TVs, big, fluffy beds and an electric lift in lieu of the old-fashioned elevators typical of most Argentinian buildings. Downstairs, the on-site restaurant Möoi serves veggie-friendly cuisine in a brightly lit space. If that doesn’t float your boat, however, you’re just steps away from many of the city’s best bars and restaurants.

Costa Rica 5480, y Humboldt (4773 2353/www.hotelclasico.com). Bus 34, 39, 57, 93, 108, 111, 140, 151, 168.

Rates $$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H3. D

The Haig (see p147)

Hotels

statues adorn this luminous boutique hotel, where a cascading waterfall descends into the lobby and a serene back garden transports you light years away from the urban cacophony.

There are just 12 elegant rooms here, spaced well enough apart that you don’t feel like you’re going to bed with your neighbour. The sizeable rooms come with a king-size bed and a pillow menu, and have either street-side balconies or garden outlooks. If you’re after even more relaxation and are reluctant to leave Ilum, book an in-room massage.

El Salvador 5726, y Bonpland (4776 8667/www.ilumhotel.com). Bus 39, 57, 93, 108, 111, 168. Rates $$ double.

Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H2. D Own Grand Palermo Soho Own Grand Palermo Soho’s 63 rooms are spacious, modern and stylish.

Although the hotel is large, the service still feels personal, and the list of amenities is so long you might find yourself spending more time in the hotel than originally planned. Head to the ninth floor for a massage, or to work those muscles in the fullyequipped gym, then retire to the rooftop garden to watch the sunset or float about in the heated pool. Own Grand Palermo Soho’s other draw is its location. The clue’s in the name, folks, and you’re right in the heart of it.

Gurruchaga 2121, y Guatemala (4773 8300/www.owngrand.com). Bus 36, 39, 55, 110, 160. Rates $$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3. D

Own Palermo Hollywood For travellers who have always wanted their own master suite with a private balcony, look no further than Own. A stay here feels like attentive, stylish friends have lent you their hip hangout, one that conveniently includes flat-screen TVs, DVD and CD players, and a handy set of notes on local attractions. The location couldn’t be better, with plenty of shopping, dining and drinking options within a matter of blocks. For those who prefer to stay in, an intimate ground floor lounge, where you’ll eat breakfast, also hosts nightly drinks.

Cabrera 5556, y Humboldt (4772 8100/www.ownpalermo.com). Bus 34, 39, 93, 108, 111, 140, 151, 166, 168.

Rates $$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2. D

Sipan (see p60), complete with a patio for outdoor dining.

Uriarte 1648, entre Honduras y El Salvador (4897 2100/www.palermit ano.biz). Bus 34, 39, 55, 140, 151.

Rates $$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3. D

Palo Santo Eco-friendly hotel Palo Santo is proof that you can be kind to the environment without scrimping on style. Built to US Green Council building standards, the boutique hotel’s tasteful 24 rooms each have their own balcony, recycling bins and furnishings made from certified Palo Santo and Paraíso wood. Sit back in the leafy garden at French restaurant Topinambour and admire the 800 plants adorning the exterior walls (and offsetting the hotel’s carbon dioxide Palermitano emissions), or head to As slick and stylish as it Treat yourself the roof to relax in the is well run and friendly, Relax in BA’s most hydromassage pool.

Palermitano marks itself serene spas at CasaSur Who knew going green out from the pack with Palermo (see p142), could feel so good? lavish details like marble Home Hotel and The Bonpland 2275, y bathrooms in each of its Glu Hotel (see Paraguay (4775 3829/ p143).

16 rooms. And there’s www.palosantohotel.com). something satisfyingly Subte D, Ministro Carranza/bus egalitarian in the fact that the only 15, 29, 34. Rates $$ double. major difference between the two suites Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H3. D and the rest of the rooms is size – everything else remains exactly the Vain same. Don’t miss the chance to chill by The friendly folk at Vain believe there’s the lovely rooftop pool overlooking nothing narcissistic about pampering Palermo Soho or to dine at the yourself once in a while. When you restaurant, the second branch of the check in to this tranquil 15-room downtown Peruvian fusion restaurant boutique hotel located a short stroll

144 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015/16

TOP TIP!

away from Plaza Italia, you’re offered a complimentary drink, and if this isn’t enough to de-stress, the Senior rooms are equipped with hydromassage tubs.

Since you’re indulging in deadly sins, add a little gluttony to the list: don’t miss the delicious breakfast, which should set you up a treat for a day of strolling in the surrounding area.

Thames 2226, y Paraguay (4776 8246/www.vainuniverse.com). Subte D, Plaza Italia/bus 10, 12, 15, 29, 34, 36, 39, 55, 60, 68. Rates $$ double.

Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3. D Vitrum Hotel This Palermo hotel is instantly recognisable from the street thanks to the colourful patchwork tiles on its façade; inside, design trends, up-to-the-minute technology and avant-garde art spice things up further.

The two-storey loft has psychedelicchic wallpaper, and the calming studios are all azure accents and colourful glass tiled bathrooms. There’s a stylish sushi restaurant on-site and an art gallery that leads to a lush garden, but the pièce de résistance is the luxurious spa, complete with a gym, sauna, massage rooms and steam bath.

Gorriti 5641, entre Fitz Roy y Bonpland (4776 5030/www. vitrumhotel.com). Bus 34, 39, 93, 111, 151, 166. Rates $$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H2. D BUDGET

1555 Malabia House This much imitated establishment was at the vanguard of the boutique hotel

wave in Palermo. The former convent was once home to the ladies of San Vicente Ferrer, who would scarcely recognise its contemporary incarnation, and benefits from its owner’s inherent flair for design. Mini outdoor areas combine to create a relaxed oasis, and the warmth of your reception will likely tempt you to linger.

The 15 tasteful rooms all have air-conditioning and one has its own balcony. Though the building underwent a renovation scarcely imaginable in 1896, it truly remains an urban sanctuary.

Malabia 1555, entre Gorriti y Honduras (4833 2410/www.malabia house.com.ar). Bus 39. Rates $ double.

Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2. D The 5th Floor Nestled in the heart of Villa Freud, a leafy residential area in Palermo famous for its high percentage of psychoanalysts, The 5th Floor is an art deco-lover’s dream. The boutique bed and breakfast has seven bedrooms spread over the fifth and sixth floors of what was formerly a 1940s petit hotel.

A gorgeous marble staircase and an airy Andalusian terrace with hanging plants add to the stylish and serene atmosphere. British and Argentinian owners Miles and Verónica ensure that their guests are well looked after (including the option of a proper English breakfast complete with sausage and eggs) and have helpful tips on navigating the city. Check the hotel’s Facebook page to find out what’s cooking at the monthly puerta cerrada restaurant.

Address provided at time of booking (4827 0366/wwwthe5thfloorba.com).

Subte D, Bulnes/bus 12, 15, 29, 39, 92.

Rates $ double. No credit cards.

Map F4. D

Livian Guesthouse Livian came to be when owner and ex-gymnast Lisandra began to invite friends to stay in her extensive family home. Nowadays, you might not be a friend when you arrive, but you’ll certainly feel like one when you leave.

Las Cañitas MODERATE

248 Finisterra Although it’s just a stone’s throw away from the buzzing bars, restaurants, cafés and shops that draw so many to Las Cañitas, 248 Finisterra is more of a warm refuge from the hustle and bustle. From the contemporary decor – which is offset by a sensible smattering of antique objects – to the serene garden and rooftop hardwood deck complete with a hot tub, Las Cañitas cool infuses this smart boutique hotel. If you do wish to take advantage of the upmarket night scene, then you’re in just the right spot.

Báez 248, entre Arguibel y Arévalo (4773 0901/www.248finisterra.com).

Bus 10, 15, 29, 39, 41, 55, 57, 59, 60, 64, 67, 68, 93, 95, 118, 152, 160.

Rates $$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H4. D

Almagro and Villa Crespo DELUXE

!Casa Umare It takes a certain amount of vision to see a crumbling, nearly 100-year-old building in Almagro and imagine a sumptuous boutique hotel in its place.

Fortunately, owners Andrea and Pablo had such a vision, and after three years of restoration, Casa Umare opened in 2012. The marble entranceway and stained-glass windows retain the traditional feel of the house, while each of the hotel’s six unique apartments (all of which come with a kitchen and dining room) has an eclectic mix of modern and antique furniture, and paintings by Pablo adorn the walls. The restaurant in the hands of chef Darío Gualtieri and well-stocked wine cellar are worth a visit even if you aren’t a guest. But what makes Umare really come to life is the exceptionally friendly and attentive staff.

Billinghurst 362, y Sarmiento, Almagro (4861 2030/www.casaumare. com). Subte B, Carlos Gardel/bus 92, 104, 127, 146, 151, 160. Rates $$$$ double. Credit MC, V. Map E2. D

Hotels

Hotel Costa Rica Nestled in a quiet area of Palermo but close enough to the buzz, Hotel Costa Rica offers a bargain to be smug about.

Originally two houses, the hotel retains a homely feel and the staff are among the friendliest Time Out has found.

They’ll be on-hand to offer local advice as you enjoy a coffee or glass of vino tinto at the lobby-cum-lounge’s elegant but understated bar, in what would once have been the reception room of this beautiful house. The rooms are cosy and comfortable and the small but perfectly formed communal areas – such as the inviting upstairs terrace – play host to those memorable story-swapping encounters normally found in a more laid-back environment.

Costa Rica 4137/39, entre Gascón y Acuña de Figueroa (4864 7390/ www.hotelcostarica.com.ar). Subte D, Scalabrini Ortiz/bus 15, 36, 57, 110.

Rates $ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map F3. D

The guesthouse is pitched somewhere between hotel and hostel, and its private rooms are complemented by inviting communal areas and a lovely garden where guests can mingle. The rooms are pretty too, each with its own theme and decorated with antique trinkets and artwork. The friendly staff are also more than happy to provide sightseeing and tour recommendations.

Palestina 1184, entre Avenida Córdoba y Cabrera (4862 8841/www.livianguest house.com). Bus 19, 26, 36, 90, 92, 99, 106, 109, 127, 140. Rates $ double.

Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map F2. D

BUDGET

Pop Hotel Neighbourhoods like Palermo are littered with pricey boutique hotels, Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015/16 145

bedroom options. Every apartment comes with a kitchenette and a balcony.

There’s also free internet, a gym, jacuzzi and a communal rooftop area with a parrilla. A babysitter or catering for a dinner party can also be arranged on request.

Ground floor,Viamonte 1815, entre Avenida Callao y Riobamba, Once (5258 0300/www.livinresidence.com).

Subte D, Callao/bus 6, 12, 23, 26, 29, 37, 99, 101, 102, 106, 111, 115, 124.

Rates $ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D4. D LA BOCA

New in town The Brick Hotel

Hotels

What was once classic hotel Caesar Park has reemerged as a fresh, modern establishment, complete with a stunning foyer featuring works by a changing roster of artists, top-notch restaurant The Brick Kitchen and oodles of style. With 175 rooms, it would be easy to scrimp on the details, but The Brick’s excellent facilities and friendly staff ensure you have everything you need for a comfortable, luxurious stay. While you might be tempted to spend all day relaxing in the spa after filling up on one of BA’s better hotel breakfasts, don’t forget that as well as being opposite fancy shopping centre Patio Bullrich (see p98), you’re also in close proximity to some of the city’s best sights. Posadas 1232, y Libertad (4819 1100/www.accorhotels.com). Bus 60, 75, 92.

Rates $$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map E5. D A

but Pop Hotel brings something different to the genre. Located in the up-and-coming ‘outlet zone’ of Villa Crespo, this is Buenos Aires’s first ‘budget boutique’ hotel. Pop, with its psychedelic wall patterns and Roy Lichtenstein-inspired reception, is an ode to pop art, and manages to offer comfort with a bright splash of style, for less. All 44 rooms have plasma TVs, iPod docks and kitchenettes, while the deluxe and master suites have balconies. Rooms also have tea, coffee and orange juice for breakfast, and croissants will be delivered to your door daily. There’s a minimum two night stay during high season.

Juan Ramírez de Velasco 793, y Gurruchaga, Villa Crespo (4776 6900/ www.pophotelsbuenosaires.com). Subte B, Malabia/bus 15, 24, 34, 55. Rates $ double. Credit MC, V. Map G1. D Querido B&B This stylish bed and breakfast, just minutes away from Palermo, is run by an Anglo-Brazilian couple who have created a modern but homely lodging.

Although it’s been beautifully renovated, the building still retains some original features. Each of the seven double rooms has an en-suite bathroom and flat-screen TV, and four have a balcony. A basket of delicious baked goods awaits you for breakfast each morning and the owners are

experienced travellers happy to share their tips. The cosy living area has various books to read outside on the lovely patio. In high season, there’s a minimum stay of two nights.

Juan Ramírez de Velasco 934, entre Thames y Serrano, Villa Crespo (4854 6297/www.queridobuenosaires.com).

Subte B, Malabia/bus 15, 55. Rates $ double. Credit MC, V. Map G1. D Racó de Buenos Aires ‘Off the beaten track’ is frequently a euphemism for tricky to get to, but this intimate hotel is tucked conveniently close to the Subte and bus stops on busy Avenida Rivadavia.

Racó is named after the Catalan word for ‘corner’ in homage to owner Julián’s time in Barcelona, and this hotel on an enchanting Almagro corner is filled with artwork by local artists. The neighbourhood is home to the charming, old-school Las Violetas café (see p24) and pleasant residential streets with restaurants populated more by locals than by tourists. The 12 comfortable rooms are all decorated in contrasting styles – a deluxe room might be covered in safari prints or floral patterns.

Yapeyú 271, e Hipólito Yrigoyen, Almagro (3530 6075/www. racode buenosaires.com.ar). Subte A, Castro Barros/bus 132, 151. Rates $ double.

Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map E1. D

146 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015/16

San Isidro HIGH-END

Hotel del Casco San Isidro is an irresistibly quaint neighbourhood that has been a popular short excursion from BA’s bustle since the 18th century. It has become more attractive than ever since this 19th-century house was converted into a hotel. With its whitewashed porticoes, wrought-iron lanterns and interior glass-ceilinged patio, the place is charming and old-fashioned. But it doesn’t lack modern amenities, such as a business centre, health club and pool.

Avenida del Libertador 16170 (4732 3993/www.hoteldelcasco.com.ar). Train to San Isidro from Retiro. Rates $$$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. D

Apart-hotels Better equipped than an ordinary hotel room, but requiring less commitment than renting a property, BA’s apart-hotels combine the advantages of self-catering with the convenience of hotel services.

THE CENTRE

Livin’ Residence Livin’ Residence’s apartments, close to Recoleta and Microcentro, range from studios for lone travellers to two-

Patios de La Boca This corner of La Boca is one of the city’s less salubrious areas – keep your wits about you in the surrounding streets, especially if Boca Juniors football team is playing at home – but it’s full of local character. With airy outdoor spaces and bright interior colour schemes, Patios de la Boca comprises ten self-contained apartments plus a communal garden and a terrace. There’s a three night minimum stay here, but if you’re sticking around, ask about the excellent monthly rates.

Wenceslao Villafañe 452, entre Almirante Brown y Martín Rodríguez (4343 4431/www.patiosdelaboca english.blogspot.com). Bus 29, 33, 46, 52, 53, 64, 86, 129, 130, 159, 168.

Rates $$ double. No credit cards.

Map B2. D SAN TELMO

Casa & Mundo Bolivar Snap up a hip studio or two-storey loft apartment inside this century-old house in the heart of the city’s most romantic neighbourhood. There are 14 fully-equipped apartments and each has its own unique character: lounge beneath chandeliers and a ceiling fresco in the spacious Baroque loft, or chill in the Oriental studio complete with Asian decorative touches. Leafy internal patios and a communal space in the lobby where guests can have a cup of coffee or a glass of wine offer a chance to mingle with fellow travellers.

The friendly Danish owner is always on hand to ensure everything runs as smoothly as a freshly laid bed sheet.

Bolívar 1701, y Dr Enrique Finochietto (4300 3619/www.casabolivar.com). Bus 4, 10, 12, 24, 28, 29, 33, 39, 53, 60, 61, 70, 74, 93. Rates $$ double.

Credit V. Map A3. D RECOLETA

Art Suites Situated on a quiet Recoleta block, Art Suites is a refuge for those who prefer spacious apartments to hotel rooms.

There’s no sterile lobby with stiff couches and piped-in music; just a round-the-clock doorman and a lift to whisk guests to huge suites fitted with whirlpool baths and soundproof glass doors opening on to private terraces.

Premium apartments, each containing two bedrooms and two bathrooms, can comfortably accommodate five people in style. As far as service is concerned, these discreet lodgings offer the best of both worlds, so that guests might

forget they’re in a hotel until the doorbell rings in the morning, and a tray piled high with medialunas and coffee arrives on their dining room table. Excellent for long-term stays.

Azcuénaga 1465, entre French y Juncal (4821 6800/www.artsuites.com.ar).

Subte D, Pueyrredón/bus 39, 41, 59, 60, 61, 62, 64, 68, 118, 152, 194.

Rates $$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map E4. D Poetry Building Once a crumbling Recoleta mansion, the Poetry Building has been given a stunning new lease of life as an aparthotel. Spacious lofts, studios and a roof terrace with citrus trees, an organic allotment and a dipping pool provide tranquillity amid the Buenos Aires pandemonium. Guests have everything a local might need: information on the city and a local mobile phone. Pick seasonal vegetables from the allotment to cook for dinner, and dance to the music of your room’s very own iPod as you prepare your meal.

Junín 1280, entre Arenales y Juncal (4827 2772/www.poetrybuilding.com).

Bus 10, 12, 17, 37, 39, 60, 93, 124.

Rates $$$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map E4. D PALERMO

The Haig Those who’ve graduated from youth hostels but miss the opportunity to meet other travellers need look no further than The Haig. Canadian Nick Seferian created the building from the

ground up after realising BA lacked a place for young, travelling professionals to connect. In lieu of CENTRE crumbling dorm rooms and Terrazas Estoril mandatory pubcrawls, you’ll find Attentive staff and a prime position stylish studios, one- and two-bedroom on the top floor of a restored, apartments, a chic pool and lounge, century-old building make this one and events like asados to help guests of the best hostels in BA. The mingle. Part apartment building, part Argentinian owners have thought of hotel, part communal space, The Haig it all: bright and airy dorms, quality has it all. mattresses, big spotless Humboldt 2060, entre bathrooms, breakfasts Nicaragua y Soler (4771 worth waking up for and a travel desk to 9500/www.haigba.com).

Stay another day make sure you hit the Bus 34, 39, 57, 93, 95, Some hotels have a ground running. This 108, 111, 166. Rates minimum stay during isn’t a party hostel (go $$ double. No credit peak season, so be sure to neighbouring cards. Map H3. D to enquire about Milhouse for that), but restrictions before an excellent place to Palermo Tower you book. connect with likeThis sleek apart-hotel in minded travellers in the Palermo creates a sense of calm inviting lounge, well-stocked bar, the moment you check in. It might be at one of hostel’s yoga classes or at weekly rooftop asados against the the fresh coffee in the lobby or the backdrop of the Divine Comedysoothing chocolate and cream colour inspired Palacio Barolo building. scheme, but the warm staff welcome Frequent protests on Avenida de certainly plays a part. All 23 rooms are Mayo and in front of the Palacio del spacious and have a living area and Congreso may disturb your morning kitchenette, and most have balconies slumber, but it’s all part of living in overlooking the leafy residential street, the heart of the city. but for a killer view, head to the rooftop 6th floor, Avenida de Mayo 1386, pool. A washer-dryer and gym help entre Uruguay y Talcahuano, make longer stays more convenient.

Congreso (4372 5494/www.

Charcas 4955, entre Avenida Juan B hostelestoril.com.ar). Subte A, Sáenz Justo y Humboldt (3220 1100/www.

Peña/bus 5, 8, 10, 17, 24, 39, 60, 86, palermotower.com). Subte D, Palermo/ 90, 102, 103. Rates US$18 per bus 10, 12, 15, 29, 36, 39, 41, 55, 57, person dorm; US$65 double with 59, 152. Rates $$ double. Credit private bathroom. No credit cards.

AmEx, MC, V. Map H3. D Map C4. D

Hostels

TOP TIP!

SAN TELMO & SOUTH OF THE CENTRE

America del Sur Backpackers who are accustomed to hostels that are falling apart at the seams will find bright, clean and modern America del Sur Hostel a breath of fresh air. Set in the heart of San Telmo, this is one of the city’s most pleasant hostels, with dorms and double rooms decorated in cheerful primary colours. Excellent disabled access throughout plus a room specially designed for wheelchair users wins it a double thumbs up. Backpackers heading making the trek through Patagonia can run into America del Sur again at its Calafate hostel.

Chacabuco 718, entre Avenida Independencia y Chile, San Telmo (4300 5525/www.americahostel.com. ar). Subte E, Independencia/bus 2, 8, 9, 10, 17, 22, 24, 28, 29, 45, 59, 67, 70, 86, 91, 98, 100, 103, 126, 129, 195.

Rates US$30 per person dorm; US$81 double with private bathroom. Credit MC, V. Map B4. D Milhouse Conveniently located between San Telmo and Microcentro, this threetiered 1890 house was built from materials shipped over from Europe.

Nowadays, it’s the city’s liveliest and most popular hostel, so be sure to book well in advance. Always buzzing with a good vibe, Milhouse also offers tango classes and tours.

Hipólito Yrigoyen 959, entre Tacuarí y Bernardo de Irigoyen, Monserrat (4345 9604/www.milhousehostel.com). Subte C, Avenida de Mayo/bus 2, 5, 7, 8, 10, 17, 22,

Hotels

Anselmo (see p138)

Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015/16 147

$1400 for three hours – and discreet, private parking with direct access to your den of iniquity. Rampa Car (Carranza 1347, 4773 6964, www. hotelrampacar.com.ar) in the heart of Palermo also provides easy access: the almost en-suite garages mean you can drive right up and get down to it. Choose from several themed rooms, costing from AR$300 to AR$550 for a three-hour turno. But don’t be shy, there are plenty more stimulating love-hotel options than those mentioned here. For a more comprehensive list of telos, www. alberguesonline.com.ar lets you search by location, price and in-room extras.

Hotels index

The Sky Bar at Hotel Pulitzer (see p138)

98, 100, 103, 105, 111. Rates US$21 per person dorm; US$60 double with private bathroom. Credit MC, V. Map C4. D Other location Avenida de Mayo 1245, Congreso (4383 9383).

Ostinatto Hostel Clean, minimalist design has been successfully integrated into this ‘boutique hostel’, housed in a lovely early 20th-century building. With six interweaving staircases, at first sight the interior resembles an Escher sketch, but it’s one that comes with an in-house art gallery, free English, tango and yoga classes, and ping-pong competitions. There’s also a private apartment on the penthouse floor, in case the urge to splurge on a lavish room should take hold.

Chile 680, y Chacabuco, San Telmo (4362 9639/www.ostinatto.com). Subte E, Belgrano/bus 2, 8, 9, 10, 17, 24, 29, 67, 70, 86, 91, 98, 100, 103, 126, 129. Rates AR$180 per person dorm; AR$570 double. No credit cards.

Map B4. D

Hotels

PALERMO

Back in BA A cosy little place on a quiet street in the heart of Palermo Soho, Back in BA has nine comfortable rooms, a renovated kitchen and a TV room. A central patio hosts regular outdoor asados, and the friendly bilingual staff, available at all hours, can help to arrange trips, tours and classes of all descriptions. Storage lockers have sockets inside so that guests can discreetly recharge any of their valuable electronic gadgets. Breakfast is included in the rate, and the friendly British owner is on hand most days of the week in case you have questions.

El Salvador 5115, y Uriarte (4774 2859/www.backinba.com). Bus 28, 29, 34, 39, 45, 50, 55, 56, 57, 108, 140, 151, 166, 168. Rates AR$150 per person dorm; AR$540 double with

private bathroom. Credit AmEx, MC, V (only through Paypal). Map G3. D Eco Pampa Palermo If the idea of staying in the heart of Buenos Aires’s trendiest barrio isn’t enough to sway you, maybe the thought of staying in the city’s first eco-friendly hostel will. This tastefully renovated building possesses an artistically-designed yet minimalist interior, which is furnished with energy-efficient chandeliers, refurbished wood benches, an enormous common area and a bar selling cocktails and mixers. If you venture out to the rooftop terrace for a spot of mingling, you’ll also see a small organic herb garden.

Guatemala 4778, y Gurruchaga (4831 2435/www.hostelpampa.com.ar). Subte D, Plaza Italia/bus 15, 29, 34, 36, 39, 55, 57, 110, 111, 141, 160. Rates US$22 per person dorm; US$80 double with private bathroom. Credit MC, V. Map G3.

ABASTO

Chill House Housed in a charming 1907 dwelling, Chill House has a relaxed but still decidedly sociable atmosphere and comfortable shared and private rooms.

The cosy Chill Room, bright patio and weekly asados held on the rooftop terrace provide the perfect opportunity to meet other guests. There is a clean, communal kitchen, with nice added touches like the oranges available for you to squeeze yourself in the mornings, and the friendly staff are on hand to help you make the most of your time in Buenos Aires.

Agüero 781, y Tucumán (4861 6175/ www.chillhouse.com.ar). Subte B, Carlos Gardel/bus 24, 26, 29, 71, 92, 99, 106, 109, 124, 128, 140, 146, 151, 168, 180, 188. Rates US$16 per person dorm; US$55 double. No credit cards. Map E3. D

148 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015/16

Telos

Telos (from the porteño backslang for hotel) are establishments offering rooms for rent by turns (turnos) for romantic (or not so romantic) encounters. This Argentinian tradition is popular with local residents looking to spice up their love lives, and a trip to a telo is recommendable if you want to get a glimpse of what all the fuss is about.

Don’t worry, there’s nothing dodgy about this practice: telos are highly transited, as many young people live with their parents until they wed, and some couples even rent a room for an hour on their lunchbreaks downtown.

While the rooms’ decor is often tacky, telos are generally clean and discreet – efforts are made to conceal the entrances at the end of hidden driveways, though the law says that every telo must have an ‘albergue transitorio’ sign advertising its presence. Combining sauciness and sophistication, Dissors (Colectora de Avenida General Paz 900, Ciudadela, 4653 0134, www.dissorshotel.com.ar) is a great five-star option. More expensive suites feature jacuzzis and outdoor pools; rates range from AR$835 to AR$1335 for a three- or four-hour turno.

BA’s most famous love hotel, the Los Jardines de Babilonia (Ruta Panamericana entre Alvear y Boulogne Sur Mer, Don Torcuato, 4727 0270, www.jardineshotel.com.ar), is located some 25km out of BA and has lured many a porteño out of town for some raunchy role play. Rates for sessions range from AR$745 to AR$1395, the most expensive of which will get you a two-floor suite with a third-floor patio for sunbathing. Other turnos range from two to four hours. Check the website to see the latest promotions. JJ Hotel (Avenida del Libertador 7900, 4701 4800, www.hoteljj.com.ar) in Núñez has been satisfying its guests for over 35 years.

They’re attracted by the property’s tastefully decorated rooms – AR$820-

1555 Malabia House 248 Finisterra The 5th Floor Algodon Mansion Alvear Art Hotel Alvear Palace Hotel America del Sur Anselmo Arroyo Hotel Art Suites Back in BA The Brick Hotel Cabrera Garden Casa & Mundo Bolivar Casa Calma Casa Umare CasaSur Palermo Castelar Hotel & Spa Chill House Design Suites & Towers Dissors Eco Pampa Palermo Esplendor Plaza Francia Faena Hotel Buenos Aires Fierro Hotel Four Seasons Hotel The Glu Hotel The Haig Home Hotel Hotel Babel Hotel del Casco Hotel Clásico Hotel Costa Rica Hotel Madero L’Hôtel Palermo Hotel Pulitzer Hub Porteño Ilum Los Jardines de Babilonia JJ Hotel Legado Mítico Livian Guesthouse Livin’ Residence Milhouse Mine Hotel Boutique Mio Buenos Aires Monserrat Apart Hotel Moreno Hotel Nuss Ostinatto Hostel Own Grand Palermo Soho Own Palermo Hollywood Palermitano Palermo Tower Palo Santo Park Hyatt Buenos Aires Patios de La Boca Patios de San Telmo Plaza Hotel Buenos Aires Poetry Building Pop Hotel Posada Gotan Querido B&B Racó de Buenos Aires Rampa Car Rooney’s Boutique Hotel San Telmo Luxury Suites Terrazas Estoril Ultra Hotel Vain Vitrum Hotel

144 145 145 141 136 141 147 138 138 146 148 146 143 146 136 145 142 138 148 142 148 148 142 140 142 141 143 147 143 138 146 143 145 140 143 138 141 142 148 148 143 145 146 147 143 142 140 140 142 148 144 144 144 147 144 141 146 140 136 147 145 140 146 146 148 138 140 147 143 144 144

Getting Away

Photograph: Terrazas al Mar

Summer getaways

150

Day trips

152

Estancias

153

FOTO RUTA

San Isidro

Getting Away

Families flock to Cariló come summer

Four summer getaways Sorrel Moseley-Williams shows you the best ways to escape Buenos Aires when temperatures reach boiling point

Pinamar and Cariló Those familiar with Brazil’s beaches may turn their nose up at Argentina’s Atlantic Coast, but Pinamar and Cariló make for a much easier (and cheaper) getaway from Buenos Aires.

Located just over 350km (217 miles) from Capital Federal, these small coastal towns set among dunes and pine forests are a haven for surfers and kite-surfers, attracting a relatively smart porteño set looking for an alternative to the more touristy Mar del Plata and pricier Uruguayan beaches. Catch a long-distance bus to either town from Retiro. The journey takes around four hours.

Larger Pinamar draws a younger crowd and has a number of high-end lodgings. Check into Playas Hotel (Avenida Arq Jorge Bunge 250, 02254 482236, www.playashotel. com.ar, $$$), a colonial-style lodging a stone’s throw from the beach. Also notable is Terrazas al Mar (Avenida del Mar 148, 02254 480900, www. terrazasalmar.com, $$), a more secluded hotel located off the main drag yet still central. Slightly more

www.paradorhemingway.com) comes a close second and also has a swimming pool.

economical and in the heart of town is Aguamarina (1º de Julio de 1978 128, 02254 481978, www.apart aguamarina.com.ar, $$), while wannabe Federers should stay at the aptly-named El Tennis (Fragata la Victoria 4300, 02254 489079, www. eltennis.com, $$$$) to make full use of its nine courts.

Cariló is more family-orientated, with numerous apart-hotels in its repertoire. Cabañas Baden Baden (Arbol del Cielo y Becasina, 02254 571732, www.badencarilo.com.ar, $$) is two blocks from the beach while Refugio del Bosque (Bandurria 1475, 02254 572870, www. refugiodelbosque.com) has stunning views of the ocean.

True seafood fanatics might head to the pier at 9am to buy fresh fish, but you’re on holiday, so let Cantina Tulumei (Avenida Bunge 64, 02254 488696) do all the hard work.

Pasta-loving porteños queue up for the enormous portions at Sociedad Italiana (Eneas 200, 02254 484555), which, luckily for pinamarenses, is open year-round.

Plenty of Buenos Aires eateries pop up here over the summer; look out for Ceviche, Itamae and Sushi

150 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015/16

Club. Porteño celebrity chefs are also known to do the season: chef Hernán Gipponi took over Terraza del Alba (Avenida del Mar y De la Retama, 02254 489787, www. terrazadelalba.com) in 2015.

In Cariló, Cozumel (Acacia y Playa, 02254 470409, www.cozumelcarilo. com.ar) is a favourite beachside spot known for its lunch; it serves perfect squid rings and jugs of clericot, sangria’s Latin American cousin, for the wealthy and beautiful. If fine dining is your calling, look no further than Demuru (Boyero 1471, Local 1, 02254 571414, www.demuru.com. ar), a porteño transplant that raises Cariló’s game.

If you require more fun from your sun than lounging on a towel, book a sunbed or tent Italian Riviera-style at a beach club: most accept daily reservations. Those with access to a 4X4 can tackle the dunes and head to Parador El Mas Allá (www.elmas alla.com.ar) in Pinamar Norte. A little closer, Sport Beach (www.facebook. com/SportBeach.Pinamar) is the place to take a kitesurfing class.

Cozumel is Carlió’s reigning beach hotspot, though Parador Hemingway (Boyero 1460, 02254 470711,

While porteños often overlook the northern suburb of San Isidro and satellite barrios Beccar and Martínez for being too far away or too snobby, they’d be wrong (at least about the former). Ride out of town on the 168 bus or hop on the Mitre train line out of Retiro and you’re there in about 40 minutes to an hour and for the cost of only a few pesos. With a strong hand in great restaurants plus a small yet thriving bar scene, you might start wondering why you spend all your time in Palermo.

Ahead of your visit, make friends with an able seaman: San Isidro is a yachter’s heaven, with dozens of boats lining the streams that form the ample Delta. Failing that, make a splash with a stand-up paddle class at Peru Beach (see p126). Patient instructors also teach windsurfing, kitesurfing and kayaking.

More leisurely activities include visiting the UNESCO-protected Villa Ocampo (Elortondo 1837, Beccar, 4732 4988, www.villaocampo.org), former home to feminist writer Victoria Ocampo, whom Jorge Luis Borges once described as ‘the quintessential Argentinian woman’.

In San Isidro’s old quarter you’ll find the neo-gothic Catedral de San Isidro (Avenida del Libertador 16200, 4743 0291, www.catedralde sanisidro.org). This is where the barrio, with its cobbled streets and cute boutiques, is at its most villagey. Also visit the Museo del Rugby (JB Lavalle 653, 4732 2547, www.museodelrugby.com) and the largest hippodrome in Latin America, the Hipódromo de San Isidro (see p125), which hosts Lollapalooza on March 18-19, 2016.

For upscale digs, book into Hotel del Casco (see p146), a stunning 19th-century neoclassical palace, or stay at El Colibri (Neuquén 780, 4747 7355), a friendly B&B located just out of the centre.

When it comes to refuelling, there’s an ample variety of eateries.

Ike Milano (Dardo Rocha 2602, Martínez, 4717 2993, www. ikemilano.com.ar) is the real Italian deal, run by a first generation Argentinian who knows exactly what al dente means. On a spicy kick?

The southeast Asian menu at Captain Cook (Avenida del Libertador 13652, Martínez, 4898 9070, www.captaincooksouthasian food.com) should satiate that whim.

Also check out Alo’s (see p68), a classy bistro with a delectable tasting menu. One new kid on the block is Knock (mobile 15 6112 1894, www.facebook.com/ knockcocina), a puerta cerrada located in a sculptor’s atelier. For drinking, head to pub-like Fernet Bar & Bistro (La Salle 441, 4742 1146) or the lively Raval Warehouse

JANINA TERRENO

(Avenida Tiscornia 935, 4742 7155, www.ravalwarehouse.com), which does great cocktails and stacked burgers. John John (La Salle 489, 4707 0800, www.john-john.com.ar) hits the live music spot.

Punta del Este

Rosario

Rosario is famed for its Monumento Histórico Nacional a la Bandera FOTO RUTA

Quiet and coastal José Ignacio draws a surprisingly glamorous set

San Isidro’s Villa Ocampo is a slice of Argentinian literary history

For some riverside downtime steeped in history, Rosario hits the spot. Birthplace of Argentinian legends Lionel Messi and Ernesto ‘Che’ Guevara as well as model Valeria Mazza and musician Fito Páez, the capital of Santa Fe province is more than just a grains port. These days, its flourishing gastro scene and small city vibe are welcoming a new influx of visitors.

From BA it’s just over 300km (186 miles) to Rosario, which are easily travelled by bus, car or plane.

While plenty of big-brand hotel names are installed in Rosario, book into 1412 Hotel Boutique (E Zeballos 1412, 0341 4487755, www.1412.com.ar, $) for a more charming experience. Hotel Garden’s (Callao 45, 0341 4370025, www. hotelgardensa.com, $$) has the green spaces to match its name, which are particularly resplendent in summer, as is the swimming pool.

No trip to Rosario is complete without a selfie at the Monumento Histórico Nacional a la Bandera (Santa Fe 581, 0341 4802238, www.monumentoalabandera.gob.ar); this, after all, is where General Manuel Belgrano unveiled Argentina’s iconic light blue and white flag in 1812. To get more of a taste of Rosario’s history, join the free two-hour walking tour which meets every Saturday at 11am at the intersection of calles Maipú and Urquiza. And don’t forget to take advantage of the mighty Paraná River, on whose banks the city sits, with a Paseos Náuticos (0341 155 068752, www.paseonauticorosario. com.ar) boat excursion; kayaking with Al Otro Lado del Río (Balneario La Florida, 0341 15 620 0536, www.alotroladodelrio.com) offers a different – and more energetic – vantage point of the port city.

Tummy rumbling after all that exercise? Sample local river fish such as surubí and pacú at Escauriza (Bajada Escauriza y Paseo Ribereño, 0341 454 1777, www. escaurizaparrilla.com.ar), founded in the 1950s, or for contemporary Argentinian fare with a Spanish twist, try Pobla del Mercat’s (Salta 1424, 0341 447 1240) fine dining menu.

Finish off matters with a handmade dulce de leche or Oreo-studded helado at Esther (www.esther helados.com.ar), which has multiple ice-cream parlours throughout town, then walk it off next to the river while dreaming of scoring a goal like Messi, of course.

Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015/16 151

Getting Away

Nothing says glamour quite like ‘I’m nipping over to Uruguay for the weekend’, but the ante is upped considerably if you head to Punta del Este and neighbouring La Barra, or the quieter, smarter village of José Ignacio. Get a ride across the river to Uruguay on Buquebus (www. buquebus.com.uy), Seacat (www. seacatcolonia.com) or Colonia Express (www.coloniaexpress.com), and find bus schedules to your final destination through Tres Cruces (www.trescruces.com.uy).

Punta, or el este, as it’s affectionately known, is a mini Miami that throbs ‘til it hurts in summer: pick your high-rise hotel with care. A classy and contemporary option away from the peninsula is The Grand (Rambla Lorenzo Batlle Pacheco, 00598 4249 1234, www. puntagrand.com, $$$), which comes with all the urban amenities just a hop away from the lapping waves.

For a unique take on industrial-rural chic, check in at Casa Zinc (El Tesoro, La Barra, 00598 99 620 066, www.casazinc.com, $$), whose themed rooms are the work of Uruguayan designer Aaron Hojman.

But if you’re the kind of Punta visitor for whom money is no object (and trust us, you’re not alone), put your best foot forward at the stunning Fasano Las Piedras (Cerro Egusquiza y Paso Del Barranco, La Barra, 00598 4267 0000, www. laspiedrasfasano.com, $$$$).

Given that splashing cash in Punta is unavoidable during the summer, make every peso uruguayo count. Big spenders should head to La Bourgogne (Pedragosa Sierra y Avenida del Mar 20100, 00598 42 482007), which has consistently earned a spot on Latin America’s 50 Best Restaurants, while Cuatro Mares (Capitán Miranda y 2 de Febrero, 00598 4244 8916, www. cuatromares.com.uy) serves up family-style fare such as fish and chips. As for beauty on the beach, Playa Montoya is rammed with surfers and Bikini Beach offers exactly what it says.

At just 30km (18 miles) away from Punta, José Ignacio is an easy day trip, but certainly worth a night’s stay. La Viuda de José Ignacio (Ruta 10, km 186, 200m left, Avenida del Sol Naciente, 00598 99 681 138, www.laviudadejoseignacio.com, $$) is a laid-back posada a hop from the beach. Away from the relative masses and located in the forest, Posada Azul Marino (Ruta 10, km 185, 00598 4486 2363, www. azulmarino.com.uy, $$) is a friendly lodging that’s well priced for the zone. A lazy seafood lunch at

Parador La Huella (Calle de Los Cisnes, 00598 4486 2279, www. paradorlahuella.com) is a must (and reservations are just as necessary), while Mostrador Santa Teresita’s (Las Garzas y Las Calandrias, 598 4486 2004) Scandinavian style set-up and creative menu guided by celeb chef Fernando Trocca is worth a visit at any time of day.

Cuartel 6, 02326 492080, in BA 4737 0436, www.estanciaelombu.com, $$$ per person or US$100 for day visits) occupies a colonial-style mansion 16km from town. Rates include meals, riding and campo-related activities.

Getting there San Antonio de Areco is 1hr 30mins by car from BA on Ruta Nacional 8. Bus services leave from Retiro bus terminal (1hr 45mins).

Day trips

COLONIA DEL SACRAMENTO

SAIL ACROSS THE RIVER FOR A SLICE OF HISTORY Colonia del Sacramento, Uruguay’s oldest town, is a tranquil destination of cobbled streets lined with pictureperfect colonial houses, surrounded on three sides by water. A former Portuguese settlement dating back to 1680, Colonia’s historic quarter is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The town is a popular day trip for Argentinians as well as expats living in Buenos Aires looking to renew their tourist visas.

Puerto La Pista

TIGRE AND THE DELTA

Getting Away

RETREAT TO A LUSH WATER WORLD JUST BEYOND THE CITY You’re sure to enjoy the laid-back atmosphere and river breeze in Tigre, whether you’re scanning the stalls of the Puerto de Frutos, taking a stroll along Boulevard Sáenz Peña (www. boulevardsaenzpena.com.ar), visiting the Museo de Arte Tigre (www.mat. gov.ar), touring the Museo del Mate (www.elmuseodelmate.com.ar), or simply escaping the BA grind.

Dense with silt, the Delta’s coffee-coloured waterways are home to 4,000 full-time dwellers and on weekends, porteños descend in droves.

The area, parts of which are protected by a UNESCO biosphere reserve, lends itself to afternoons exploring its vast network of waterways. To get out on the water, take a trip with Navegando por el Delta (mobile 15 5001 1324, www.navegandoporeldelta. com.ar). Or visit the Isla del Descanso (www.islaeldescanso.com) and walk through gardens full of the region’s native trees and flowers.

Eat and drink Possibly the best restaurant in town, Il Novo María del Luján (Paseo Victorica 611, 4731 9613, www.ilnovo mariadellujan.com) has a prime riverside spot. A more low-key alternative is florist and café Almacén de Flores (Boulevard Sáenz Peña 1336, 5197 4009, www.almacendeflores. com). To dine on one of the islands, take the river bus to Beixa Flor (Arroyo Abra Vieja 148, mobile 15 5228 1367, www.beixaflor.com.ar). The bohemian complex has stellar meals, its own beach and cabins to hire if you can’t tear yourself away.

Stay the night Housed in a restored 1860 posada, Tigre Hostel (Avenida San Martín 190, 4749 4034, www.tigrehostel.com. ar, $) is not exactly a hostel – it doesn’t have any dorm rooms – but is a pleasant and reasonably priced hotel.

For a spot of luxury there’s Delta Eco Spa (Río Carapachay, km 6, 5236 0553, www.deltaecospa.com, $$$$ per person, including pick-up and meals), which has a spa and restaurant. An hour and a half from boat outside of Tigre proper is tranquil complex Puerto La Pista (Río Paraná de las Palmas, km 60, 15 3206 8843, www. puertolapista.com, $$), which is popular with local families.

SAN ANTONIO DE ARECO

WANDER THE COBBLED STREETS OF A TRADITIONAL TOWN The quintessential pueblo de campo (country town), San Antonio de Areco makes for a lovely day trip or overnight stay, a mere 113km away from Buenos Aires. Founded in 1728 around a colonial church, the town’s attractive cobbled streets and 19th-century buildings are home to shops, museums and restaurants. The town is a gaucho hub and residents can often be seen sporting berets (boinas) and billowing trousers with chaps (bombachas de gaucho). You’re just as likely to pass a cowboy on a horse as a child pedalling a bicycle.

If this quiet town has a high season it’s in early November, when a buzz of rural activities leads up to the spirited gaucho festivities of the annual Día de la Tradición on November 10.

Getting there and around Bus number 60 leaves from Plaza Constitución and takes up to 1hr 45mins to reach Tigre. By train, it’s a 50-minute trip from Retiro on the Mitre line. The Tren de la Eat and drink Costa (www.sofse.gob.ar) Most of the cafés and runs from Olivos (Maipú restaurants in San station) to Tigre and Antonio de Areco serve Splashing around offers scenic views. To traditional Argentinian Take the kids to take a trip out on the Tigre’s new water park food; expect pizza and waterways, sign up for a empanadas and a slew of Aquafan (Vivanco boat tour or fishing trip, parrillas. The pick of the 1509). or for those on a budget, town’s traditional eateries is lanchas colectivas (public river La Esquina de Merti buses) depart regularly from the boat (Arellano 147, 02326 456705), located terminal (Estación Fluvial de Tigre, on the town square.

Mitre 305). Urban Biking (Esmeralda 1084, 4314 2325, www.urbanbiking.

Stay the night com) runs excellent cycling tours to Patio de Moreno (Moreno 251, 02326 Tigre, where you transfer from bikes to 455197, www.patiodemoreno.com, $$) kayaks to explore the Delta. is a charming hotel aimed at the Alternatively, rent a kayak from wannabe-gauchos-with-iPhones Sculls (Paseo Victorica 614, mobile 15 market, and has a small pool, wine bar 6812 6535, www.sculls.com.ar) once in and library. For a true gaucho experience, El Ombú (Ruta 31, Tigre.

152 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015/16

TOP TIP!

Eat and drink Colonia is full of cafés and restaurants, including several serving steaks, pasta and chivitos (grilled beef sandwiches topped with ham, cheese and egg). Try many of those dishes and more at El Drugstore (Portugal y Vascocellos, 00 598 52 25241, $$$$), a favourite for its tasty tapas and delicious seafood.

Perhaps Colonia’s best eatery is riverside café Lentas Maravillas (Santa Rita 61, 00 598 52 20636). Enjoy sandwiches, soups, Illy coffee and scrumptious chocolate cake as you browse owner Maggie Molnar’s bookshelves. Craft beer pub Barbot (Washington Barbot 160, 00 598 4522 7268) has recently brought the artisanal beer trend to Colonia.

Stay the night Comfortable digs in the old town can be found at eco-friendly posada El Capullo (18 de Julio 219, 00 598 452 30135, www.elcapullo.com, $$), which is run by an Anglo-American couple.

For a friendly, affordable stay, go for El Viajero B&B (Odriozola 269, 00 598 4522 8645, www.elviajerobb.com, $), which is popular with backpackers. El Viajero also runs a hostel (Washington Barbot 164, 00 598 4522 2683, www. elviajerohostels.com) and has several locations along the Uruguayan coast.

Countryside retreat El Galope Farm & Hostel (00 598 9910 5985, www. elgalope.com.uy, $, dorm beds US$25) is located some 50 minutes from Colonia. The owners offer lovely home-cooked meals, horse riding and bike hire.

Getting there To cross the river to Colonia, reserve a passage on a ferry with Buquebus (www.buquebus.com), or cheaper options Seacat (www.seacatcolonia. com) and Colonia Express (www. coloniaexpress.com). The first two leave from Puerto Madero, while the latter exits Argentina from La Boca.

The trip takes around an hour.

Estancias For city-dwellers in need of a break, estancias – working ranches that double as retreats – offer everything from horse riding and polo to fishing and gaucho shows. All the estancias recommended here are within a few hours drive of Buenos Aires and most offer a día de campo (day excursion) package complete with a hearty asado in addition to comfortable overnight lodgings.

One such excursion is Argentina Polo Day (www.argentinapoloday. com.ar, mobile 15 6738 2422), which offers a full-day polo and estancia experience just outside of Pilar, some 45 minutes from the city. You can watch a game of polo while enjoying beef empanadas straight off the grill and plenty of malbec. Although polo is the main draw, the asado lunch is better than most of the offerings at Buenos Aires’s numerous parrillas. Along with food and all the wine you can drink, the US$175 package includes a polo lesson geared to all levels, a match between the local club members and transfers to and from the city. If you’re feeling slightly more adventurous, and already have some experience with the sport, sign up for the Polo Clinic.

Various classes, games, food and accommodation are included in the cost of US$370 per day, with a minimum stay of two days.

Vito, the enthusiastic young founder of Argentina Polo Fields (mobile 15 6198 2217, www.argentinapolofields.

com, from US$160 per person including transport), is determined to provide everyone with the polo experience, regardless of age and skill. A day at this scenic estancia includes an authentic asado with wine tasting, a thorough lesson with a focus on riding techniques, as well as a chance to play in a 4-chukka match. If at the end of the day you’re not ready to leave the campo, the estancia boasts luxurious accommodation with en-suite bedrooms, a library and a swimming pool.

For another sleepover option, one of the ritziest estancias around is La Candelaria (Ruta Nacional 205, km 114.5, 02227 494473, www.estancia candelaria.com, $$ per person or from AR$907 día de campo) in Lobos, 115km south-west of Buenos Aires.

Surrounded by 100 hectares of park and forest, the large château looks like it belongs in the French countryside, but La Candelaria’s gaucho shows and asado will remind you you’re in Argentina rather than Europe. The sprawling grounds also include tennis courts and a pool, and there is an 18-hole golf course a few minutes away from the estancia. If you opt for a day of sports and activities, treat yourself afterwards to a well-deserved massage.

As its name implies, Puesto Viejo Polo Club (Ruta Nacional 6 towards La Plata, in BA 5279 6893, mobile 15 5597 6644, www.puestoviejoestancia. com.ar, $$ per person, US$150 polo

day, US$110 día de campo) specialises in all things polo. The estancia is located 70km outside of Buenos Aires and holds daily polo matches, and polo or riding lessons can be tailored to ability. There are plenty of activites for those not as comfortable on a horse; the estancia also offers swimming, cycling and tango. Puesto Viejo makes it easy to unwind after a full day of activities, with massages and rustic-chic rooms perfect for relaxation.

Families looking for an easy getaway might want to opt for a weekend at La Horqueta (Ruta Nacional 20 to Ranchos, in BA 4777 0150, www.lahorqueta. com, $$ per person or AR$380 día de campo), 1 hour 30 minutes from the capital. The owner’s grandfather, Fermín Pierri, constructed the Tudor-style estate in 1928, when it served as the family’s holiday home. Fishing and boating can be enjoyed on the nearby lake, and guests can also explore the expansive estancia grounds either on horse or bike.

Guests who prefer the great indoors can stay in to play poker and other card games over a glass of wine.

If you’re looking to put more distance between yourself and the capital, try La Oriental (JB Justo 420, Junín, mobile 15 5146 5210, www.estancialaoriental.com, $$ per person), located 250km northwest of Buenos Aires.

The main house of this working ranch is an opulent abode, decorated with 1900s French furniture, a library, family

portraits and a billiard table. The price includes meals made with farm-fresh ingredients from the ranch.

Estancia Monte Viejo (Ruta 215, km 51, Brandsen, 02223 441032, in BA 6607 7668, www.estanciamonteviejo. com.ar, $$ per person or US$98 día de campo) can be found just 78km south of Buenos Aires. Here, leaving the city doesn’t mean giving up creature comforts. Monte Viejo’s lodgings are equipped with gadgets like LCD TVs and Nespresso machines to keep guests happy, while breakfast includes an array of artisanal pastries. Plenty of activities will make even the most die-hard urbanite fall in love with the outdoors, including riding, fishing and either biking or walking tours of the beautiful, sprawling estancia, which has been named a site of historic interest.

La Margarita (Cacharí km 7, Tapalqué, 02283 420530, in BA 4951 0638, www.estancialamargarita.com, $$ per person or $ self-catering) lies on verdant plains 280km south of Buenos Aires. Secluded by a forest of cedar trees, the colonial-style estancia has rustic decor and period mahogany furniture. Activities range from riding, swimming and cycling to milking cows and feeding chickens. The estancia prides itself on serving seasonal ingredients and local products in its meals. Self-catering is also available, and includes use of the estancia’s outdoor parrilla.

Getting Away Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015/16 153

Resources

Photograph: Foto Ruta

Useful information

156

Sticking around

157

Map

158

Transport and Subte map

160

FOTO RUTA

Bus 37, 60, 102. Open 8.45am-5.30pm Mon-Thu; 8.45am-2pm Fri. Canadian Embassy Tagle 2828, entre Avenida Figueroa Alcorta y Juez Tedin, Recoleta (4808 1000/www.argentina.gc.ca). Bus 67, 102. Open 8.30am-12.30pm, 1.305.30pm Mon-Thu; 8.30am-2pm Fri.

Resources

Irish Embassy 6th floor, Avenida del Libertador 1068, entre Ayacucho y Avenida Callao, Recoleta (5787 0801/www. embassyofireland.org.ar). Bus 17, 60, 61, 62, 92. Open 9am-1pm Mon-Fri. New Zealand Embassy 5th floor, Carlos Pellegrini 1427, entre Arroyo y Posadas, Retiro (5070 0700/ www.nzembassy.com/argentina). Bus 10, 17, 59, 60, 92. Open 10am-noon Mon-Fri. For NZ citizens only: 9am-5.30pm Mon-Fri.

Tourist and travel information

The streets in Puerto Madero are all named after women

Useful information Emergencies

Health

immense public Hospital de Clínicas (Avenida Córdoba 2351, 5950 8000, www.hospitaldeclinicas.uba.ar).

For an English-speaking gynaecologist, contact Dr Claudia María Battista (3rd floor, Arenales 1611, Recoleta, 4811 6127). For back and neck woes, see Dr Craig Ingram Penny at Family Chiropractic in Belgrano (Office A, 5th floor, Gorostiaga 1664, 4779 9121, www.familychiropractic.com.ar). If your feet require the services of a podiatrist, try Point Centro de Podología y Ortopedia (Perón 4191, 4866 5885, www.centrodepodologia. com.ar) in Almagro.

The standard of medical care in Buenos Aires is generally high. For emergency or general medical needs, try Recoleta’s Hospital Alemán (Pueyrredón 1640, 4827 7000, www. hospitalaleman.org.ar), which has English-speaking doctors and is one of the cleanest and best hospitals in the city. There are also English-speaking doctors at the Hospital Británico (Perdriel 74, 4309 6400, www. hospitalbritanico.org.ar) in Constitución, and at Almagro’s Hospital Italiano (Juan Domingo Perón 4190, 4959 0200, www. hospitalitaliano.org.ar). Walk-in appointments at these private hospitals start from AR$280. Hospital Argerich (Pi y Margall 750, 4121 0700, www.buenosaires.gob.ar/hospital argerich) in La Boca, is one of the city’s better public hospitals; or make for the

If you need emergency dental treatment, you can call the Servicio de Urgencias Odontológicas at 4805 6407, or for the nearest public hospital, visit www.buenosaires.gob. ar/areas/salud and click on ‘odontología’. Drs Gustavo & Marisol Telo (Office B, 2nd floor, Laprida 1621, 4828 0821, mobile 15 5400 5999, www.dental-argentina.com) offer emergency care, as well as cosmetic treatments and implants.

Dental Square (Office F, 1st floor, Cabello 3181, 5778 0256, www. dentalsquareargentina.com) has a similar range of services, and in Palermo, Drs Leonardo & Martín Pelcman (Office A, 10th floor, Avenida Santa Fe 3444, 4821 9070, www.drspelcman.com.ar) are also recommendable dentists. English is spoken at all three clinics.

Fire 100; also 4383 2222 or 4304 2222.

Medical emergencies 107 to call an ambulance.

Police 911; 101; also 4370 5911.

HOSPITALS AND DOCTORS

DENTISTS

156 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015/16

SEXUAL HEALTH

Pregunta SIDA runs a free HIV/AIDS helpline (0800 333 3444, open 6ammidnight Mon-Fri; 9am-9pm Sat, Sun) with advice on general sexual health issues and where to go for treatment.

Fundación Huésped (Ángel Peluffo 3932, 0800 222 4837, www.huesped.org. ar) runs a helpline and conducts research into AIDS. Contraception can be purchased at pharmacies without a prescription, or acquired free of charge at public hospitals and health centres.

The national sexual health programme also has a free helpline (0800 222 3444, www.msal.gov.ar/saludsexual).

Embassies and consulates American Embassy Avenida Colombia 4300, entre Sarmiento y Avenida Cerviño, Palermo (5777 4533/argentina.usembassy.gov).

Subte D, Plaza Italia/bus 37, 67, 130, 152, 160. Open 8.30am-noon Mon-Fri; 2.30-4pm Mon-Thu. Visas by appointment only.

Australian Embassy Villanueva 1400, y Zabala, Belgrano (4779 3500/www.argentina.embassy. gov.au). Bus 15, 42, 55, 59. Open 8.30am-5pm Mon-Fri. British Embassy Luis Agote 2412, y Guido, Recoleta (4808 2200/ukinargentina.fco.gov.uk).

The English version of the city government’s tourist website is www.turismo.buenosaires.gob.ar/en. A free information line is open from 8am to 8pm daily (0800 555 0016). For customised itineraries while in the city, contact BA Cultural Concierge (baculturalconcierge.com), or for tickets, tours and airport transfers, see Landing Pad BA (landingpadba. com). Loli Delger at The Hummingbird Trip (Uriarte 1942, 3227 1111, www.thehummingbirdtrip. com) organises fantastic tours of BA and beyond, as do the friendly folk at travel agency Say Hueque (Thames 2062, 5258 8740, www.sayhueque.com).

Safety tips

Continued economic hardship in Buenos Aires has been linked to a rise in street crime, but with a little common sense and a few basic precautions, visitors should be able to stay out of trouble. Avoid pulling out a wallet stacked with bills, and try not to flash expensive jewellery and cameras. Leave non-essential cards and ID at home, loop a leg through bag straps while in restaurants, keep an eye on belongings on public transport (the Subte in particular) and always use radio taxis (see p160). Although violent crime is rare, bag snatching and slitting, sadly, are not. If you are actually threatened, hand over your goods calmly: BA has a gun problem. Distraction thefts are common, such as where one person sprays a mustard-like substance on you while another ‘kindly’ offers to clean it off – and then clears off with your stuff.

Police stations Tourists can report crimes at the police station in the neighbourhood where the incident happened, or at the Comisaría del Turista, where

English-speaking staff is on hand to receive reports of crimes 24 hours a day (Avenida Corrientes 436, Microcentro, 0800 999 5000).

Telephones Dialling & codes All Buenos Aires landline numbers consist of eight digits. To call a mobile phone number, add 15 before the eight-digit number. From overseas, dial your country’s international dialling code then 54 11 and the eight-digit number, or for a mobile phone, dial 54 9 11 and the last eight digits.

Other useful numbers Directory information 110.

International operator 000.

Mobile phones The main mobile phone companies in BA are Claro, Movistar and Personal.

Pay-as-you-go SIM cards (chips) can be purchased in phone shops and kiosks.

Money

LOST/STOLEN CREDIT CARDS

American Express 0810 555 2639.

Diners Club 0810 444 2484.

MasterCard 4348 7070.

Visa 4379 3333.

There are dozens of institutes offering Spanish classes in BA, from outfits like Pensaris (Office 4, 2nd floor, Alsina 495, 5218 7735, www.pensaris.com.ar), which caters more to business clients, to International Training (5th floor, Vuelta de Obligado 1808, 4788 1788, www.ih-buenosaires.com), which has free classes with trainee teachers throughout the year. In Palermo, Ayres de Español (Gurruchaga 1851, 4834 6340, www.ayresdespanol. com.ar) has private as well as small group classes, as do downtown IBL (Office 328, 3rd floor, Galería Güemes, Florida 165, 4331 0033, www.ibl.com. ar) and Ibero Spanish School (1st floor, Paraguay 917, 4328 0280, www. iberospanish.com). Many schools, such as LV Studio (Darregueyra 2394, mobile 15 5855 6472, www.lvstudio web.com) and El Pasaje (Apartment A, 1st floor, Piedras 83, 5032 7428, www.elpasajespanish.com) offer varied activities like wine tasting and tango classes. Expanish (4th floor, 25 de Mayo 457, 5252 3040, www.expanish. com) has some of the best facilities in town. VOS (Marcelo T de Alvear 1459, 4812 1140, www.vosbuenosaires.com) offers conversational classes focused on peppering your Spanish with local slang. The University of Buenos Aires’s Laboratorio de Idiomas (25 de Mayo 221, 4343 5981, www.idiomas. filo.uba.ar) has an excellent Spanishfor-foreigners programme.

To organise an intercambio (language exchange) with native speakers, create and post your profile on the popular website Conversation Exchange (www.conversationexchange.com) and sit back as the offers roll in. Or check out Mundo Lingo’s (www.mundolingo. org/buenosaires) or Spanglish’s (5505 4113, www.spanglishexchange.com) wildly popular language exchange events that take place a few times a week across town.

Sticking around If, like so many before you, you find you’re just not ready to leave the bifes and the beautiful people behind, the following resources should help get you started in your quest to go from just passing through to permanente.

Apartment rentals Don’t be put off by the initial complications involved in renting in BA: if you find yourself without a garantía (a guarantee from a local who can vouch for you should you run out of cash) and a DNI (national identity card), and are reluctant to tie yourself to a minimum two-year contract, rest assured that there are other options. Short- and long-term rental rates can be negotiated, though you’ll very likely have to pay more than a porteño would. Prices tend to be quoted in

dollars, but that doesn’t mean you need to pay in USD. Insist on paying in pesos at a fair exchange rate, and even for Complicated red tape makes attaining short-term rentals, ask for a contract. residency status in Argentina tricky, To search independently for an meaning that plenty of foreigners apartment or a room in shared resort to the common, though accommodation, trawl through the increasingly frowned upon, practice of popular local Craigslist (buenosaires. renewing the 90-day tourist visa en.craigslist.org), which is in both granted on entering the country by English and Spanish, the Spanishpopping across the river to Uruguay. language Comparto Depto (www.

Technically, this is still legal, as long as compartodepto.com) or Spare Rooms you’re not working in Argentina. For Buenos Aires (3221 1798, www. those who want to stick around and spareroomsba.com). make it all above board, there are If you want to rent a a number of options, furnished flat for anything including proving a private from a few nights to several income (from a foreign rent Job hunters months, and would rather go or pension, for example), should check through an agency, there are taking a university course, or BA’s Craigsa number of companies that getting a job with an list. can help. Rates vary greatly, employer that will sponsor but you can expect them to start your visa. There’s plenty of at around US$700 per month. Agencies information to be found through the generally charge commission and Immigration Authorities (www. require a deposit, and some also offer migraciones.gov.ar). Or if all else fails, services including transfers, city tours, you can always set your sights on Spanish classes, car rental and even marriage. The fine for overstaying concierges. Note that not all accept your visa is AR$600, which is paid payment by credit card. upon leaving the country.

For Rent Argentina (4822 5912, www.4rentargentina.com), ByT Argentina (4876 5000, www. bytargentina.com) and House Cash-in-hand, contract-free positions in Buenos Aires (4706 1151, www. are relatively easy to come by in BA. houseinbuenosaires.com) can arrange Jobs in the service industry and lets in fully furnished apartments all teaching English are the main options, over the city, from just the basics to and adverts regularly feature on sites truly palatial digs. My Space BA Craigslist (www.craigslist.org) and (4793 3496, www.myspaceba.com) Jobs Abroad (jobsgoabroad.com). and Oasis BA (4777 3692, www.

Zona Jobs (www.zonajobs.com.ar) oasiscollections.com) tend towards the and CompuTrabajo (www. more luxurious end of the scale. The latter also owns the Oasis Clubhouse computrabajo.com.ar) are other sources. Wages are not generous, and offering three rooms to rent and use of one of BA’s loveliest pools. BA House you may need to patch together hours at different places to make ends meet.

(4803 3147, www.bahouse.com.ar) has English speakers are often required for flats in some of the city’s smarter telemarketing positions, but if your barrios, as well as in Uruguay’s Punta skills allow you to work for companies del Este. A number of other abroad, you’ll have the advantage of businesses, such as BAires earning in a currency other than the Apartments (4833 3319, www. bairesapartments.com) have properties peso. Remote workers can stave off feelings of isolation by opting to rent for sale as well as for rent. For a desk space at Areatres (5353 0333, full-service apart-hotel in the heart of Palermo Hollywood with a sauna, pool www.areatresworkplace.com), a and bilingual staff, try Cimma Suites well-equipped, modern work space in Palermo designed for freelancers. If (Paraguay 5326, 2054 2898, www. teaching English takes your fancy, you cimmasuites.com.ar), or check out our can obtain a teaching qualification at selection of apart-hotels on page 146.

International Training (see left) or Íbero Argentina (6023 8375, www. iberotefl.com).

Immigration

TOP TIP!

Work

Buying property

Some of Buenos Aires’s biggest estate agents are Bullrich (6009 3500, www. bullrich.com.ar) and Goldstein Propiedades (4865 5445, www. goldsteinpropiedades.com). Giesso (4361 1887, www.giessoprop.com.ar) specialise in San Telmo properties, while Ojo Propiedades (4832 4040, www.ojopropiedades.com) is based in Palermo and also does rentals.

Meanwhile, popular website Solo Dueños (www.soloduenos.com.ar) cuts out the middleman, putting potential buyers in touch with property owners directly.

Networking

While you might have arrived in BA with the idea of working on your Spanish, there’s no harm in knowing where to look when you need some cultural familiarity, a helping hand settling in or advice on where to buy peanut butter. Language exchange groups like Spanglish (see left) are good ways of meeting other English speakers, as are organisations like BA Expats (www.baexpats.org), CouchSurfing (www.couchsurfing. org) and InterNations (www. internations.org/buenosaires), which are popular with locals and foreigners.

Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015/16 157

Resources

Most banks have ATMs, and machines can also be found inside some petrol stations. They usually charge a fee (around US$6) and will use the official exchange rate, which is likely to differ considerably from the unofficial or blue dollar rate. Note that for most foreign cards the maximum withdrawal is AR$1000 at a time and ATMs may run short of cash at the beginning of the month and indeed, at any other time, so set some aside for emergencies.

Opening a bank account is difficult for foreigners without local ID. To receive money from overseas, use Forexcambio (Marcelo T de Alvear 540, 4313 0478, www.forex.com.ar) or Western Union (0800 800 3030, www.westernunion.com.ar). If you have a US bank account you can receive pesos at an exchange rate closer to that of the black market through Xoom (Libertad 1057, Recoleta, www.xoom.com); Europeans can try Azimo (www.azimo.com).

However, Argentina is currently tightening its regulations and this may limit your access to these services. To change money, go to an official casa de cambio (currency exchange) such as Metrópolis (5554 5800, www. metropoliscf.com), with locations across the city, including at Sarmiento 356 (5554 5800). Since the government implemented strict conditions on the purchase of foreign currencies, demand for US dollars has skyrocketed on the black market where US$1 can fetch AR$15 and above. Cuevas (caves), which exchange money at the black market rate, are the city’s unofficial bureaux de change and are often disguised as jewellery or souvenir stores; many are dotted around calle Florida in Microcentro.

Language study

Transport By taxi or remise

Taxis in Buenos Aires are black and yellow with a red light in the front window if available. They are reasonably priced and plentiful.

Visitors should be wary, though, of being taken for a long ride or being robbed by an unlicensed driver. For this reason, radio taxis or remises (licensed minicabs) are the best bet.

Look for the words ‘radio taxi’ and the name and number of the company on back passenger doors. Even better, call a taxi (you will need some Spanish to book a cab by phone, though hotel and restaurant staff will usually be happy to help). Reputable companies include Pídalo (4956 1200) and Radio Taxi Premium (4374 6666). If you have a smartphone, you can reserve a taxi through SaferTaxi (www.safertaxi. com), and the Easy Taxi (4776 3658, www.easytaxi.com.ar) phone app is also helpful in minimising post-club waiting in the cold. The latter provides information on the closest taxi and the time it will take to reach you.Taxi meters start at AR$16.90 (AR$20.28 after 10pm), and since you’re not expected to tip, you should receive change to the nearest AR10¢. Keep an eye out for dishonest drivers, who may switch your pristine bill for a fake, then accuse you of passing it. For trips outside the city, remises are best. They look like private cars and don’t run on meters, so agree on a price before setting out. Try Remises Via (4777 8888) or Remises Recoleta Vip (4983 0544).

By bus

Resources

City buses are called colectivos. Fares are AR$3.00, AR$3.25 or AR$3.50 for journeys within the capital when paid with a Sube card, which can be topped up at Subte stations and some kiosks.

Pick up a card for AR$20 at locations listed here: www.sube.gob.ar; note that you may need to show your passport.

Without a Sube card, the fare costs AR$5-$6 and must be paid with coins directly into the machine. To find your way around the city by bus – recommended, as they’re cheap, frequent and reliable – buy a Guía T, a pocket-size bus guide found at most newsstands. Or visit mapa.buenosaires. gob.ar, an excellent resource for planning your trip by public transport or bike.

Terminal de Omnibus More than 80 long-distance coach lines operate between Retiro and destinations throughout Argentina and as far away as Peru and Colombia.

There are typically two types of service to choose from: semi-cama (half bed) and coche-cama (bed seats), the latter often called ejecutivo. Tickets can be purchased at the bus station; some tickets can be bought through authorised vendors around the city or

online or over the phone. In high season (Dec-Feb, Easter and July), tickets should be bought well in advance. For long-distance bus schedules and to purchase tickets, see www.plataforma10.com.

Avenida Antártida Argentina, y Calle 10, Retiro (Passenger information 4310 0700/www.tebasa.com.ar). Subte C, Retiro/bus 6, 23, 93, 130, 152.

Driving

Driving in Buenos Aires is a sure-fire way to raise your blood pressure, with high-speed, freestyle driving a favourite sport. In theory, priority is given to cars crossing other streets from the right; in practice, avoid assuming anything whatsoever.

To hire a car, you need to be over 21, or 23 in the case of some companies, and with a driver’s licence. Prices start at around AR$690 per day. Major companies will allow you to take Buenos Aires’s underground the car out of the country if train network (the Subte) is you sign a contract in quick and easy to use and front of a public notary, runs from 5am to 10.30pm It’s easier and more which costs around (8am to 10pm Sundays). It cost effective to pay AR$800. You must have has four lines which branch for public transport at least third-party out from the city centre and with a Sube card insurance (seguro de two that run laterally. A (www.sube.gob.ar). responsabilidad civil), but single journey costs it’s sensible to take out AR$4.50 with a Sube card and fully comprehensive. For car AR$5 without, which can be paid hire, contact Avis (www.avis.com. at the ticket booth. Hold on to your ar), Baires Rent A Car (www. belongings – theft is common. bairesrentacar.com.ar) or Hertz (www. milletrentacar.com.ar).

By Subte

TOP TIP!

By train Trains connecting the northern suburbs with the city centre are more modern – and safer – than the often shockingly badly maintained carriages serving the south.

Retiro Trains run north and west from Retiro, which is really three stations in one: Mitre, Belgrano and San Martín. From Mitre, there are trains to Tigre via San Isidro. Fares range from AR$2 to AR$11.50 in cash, or AR$1 to AR$5.80 with a Sube card.

Avenida Ramos Mejía 1358, Retiro.

160 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015/16

Assisted Buenos Aires is far from being disabled-friendly. Pavements are uneven and wheelchair ramps are few and far between, the Subte is hard to access and few buses go super-bajo (ultra-low). There are, however, some transport companies that can assist.

QRV – Transportes Especiales QRV has a number of adapted minibuses for wheelchair users, equipped with microphones and guides. Call for prices (4306 6635/ www.qrvtransportes.com.ar).

By air Ezeiza (Aeropuerto Ministro Pistarini) Most international flights arrive and depart from this airport, except some to and from neighbouring countries (see below). There is no rail link between Ezeiza and downtown BA, but the number 8 bus, which leaves from Avenida de Mayo, will drop you off at the airport. Manuel Tienda León shuttle buses (4315 5115, www. tiendaleon.com) cost AR$145 per person and leave every 30 minutes between 6am and midnight and hourly between midnight and 6am.

Depending on where you live, for an extra AR$40, a connecting remis can take you to your door. Allow 50 minutes for travel between the city and airport, and more than an hour at rush hour. For a taxi from the airport, use one from the approved kiosks, which cost around AR$400. For an airport transfer in English, contact Buenos Aires Taxis (mobile 15 4793 3496, www.bataxis.com).

Ezeiza, 35km from city centre (5480 2500/www.aa2000.com.ar).

Aeroparque Jorge Newbery ‘Aeroparque’, as Jorge Newbery airport is known, is the arrival and departure point for domestic flights, as well as those to and from Uruguay and occasionally Brazil, Chile and Paraguay. It’s located on Costanera Norte and there is a taxi rank at the airport exit. The journey from the city centre to Aeroparque takes about 15 minutes (though it can be longer during rush hour) and costs around AR$100.

Avenida Costanera Rafael Obligado, y La Pampa, Costanera Norte (5480 6111/www.aa2000.com.ar).