Time Out Insiders N18

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Time Out Buenos Aires Published by Malacara Publishing SA Pasaje Soria 5012, 1a C1414BLD Buenos Aires +54 11 4831 1539 info@timeoutba.com

Published under the authority of and in collaboration with Time Out International Ltd London UK. The name and logo of Time Out are used under license from Time Out Group Ltd, 251 Tottenham Court Road, London W1T 7AB, UK +44 (0)20 7813 3000 www.timeout.com © Copyright Time Out Group Ltd 2013 Editorial Managing Director Mark Rebindaine Editor Emily Jensen – editor@timeoutba.com Contributing Editor Cayley Taylor Food and Drink Editor Allie Lazar Editorial Assistant Lauren Pringle Proofreader Emma Clifton, Sophie Parker Fact-checker/Intern George Kafka Design Art Director Gonzalo Gil Graphic designer Sofía Iturbe Maps Nexo Servicios Gráficos Sales and Marketing Sales Santiago de Santibañes – santiago@timeoutba.com Distribution Mau Banach – mau@timeoutba.com Administration Mau Banach – mau@timeoutba.com Contributors Matt Chesterton, Sonja D’Cruze, Rosie Hilder, Emily Jensen, George Kafka, Allie Lazar, Clemmy Manzo, Andrew McCance, Sorrel Moseley-Williams, Sophie Parker, Stephen Phelan, Lauren Pringle, Mark Rebindaine, Cayley Taylor, Taryn Tilton.

Photography José Zambrano.

Contributing Photographers Nicolás Amendola, Lucio Alvarez Lastra, Martín Bonetto, Roman Buccino, Ali Cherkis, Luis Duran, Celeste Escobar, Georgia Gray, Gon de Fazio, Shooresh Fezoni, Cristian Holzmann, Emily Jensen, George Kafka, Allie Lazar, Martín Levi, Flor Marconi, Flori Moreno, Beatrice Murch, Lucia Prieto, Joe Rondone, Ed Stocker, Diego Tabasco.

Features

Out and about

10 City beat

21 Food & Drink

The word on the street in BA.

12 Dates for your diary

The best festivals and events.

14 BA Dos, don’ts and dares

How to stay out of trouble in the capital (or get into some).

16 Not just for kids A look at renowned Argentinian comic strips.

18 Football mania

The lowdown on the national obsession.

OVER TO YOU We’d love to read your comments on this issue, or your thoughts on places we should consider including in the next one.

Drop us a line at editor@timeoutba.com

22 Cafés 27 Restaurants 68 Food and drink index

69 Nightlife

70 Bars 80 Clubs 90 Nightlife index

93 Shopping

94 Shopping 111 Health and beauty 112 Markets 112 Shopping index

113 Arts & Leisure

114 Around town 121 Museums 123 Art 127 Film and media 129 Fitness and sports 132 Gay and lesbian

136 Music 139 Performing arts 142 Tango

Additional Images 1555 Malabia House, 28 Sport, Archivo General de la Nación, Arepera, ArteBA, Arte Étnico Argentino, Artemesia, El Baqueano, Biking Buenos Aires, Bio, Birkin Coffee Bar, Blackmamba, Calaca Studio, La Carpintería, Cocina Discreta, Complejo Tango, La Crespo, Cualquier Verdura, Dean & Dennys, La Dolfina, Elementos Argentinos, La Esperanza de los Azcurra, Full City Coffee House, Frank’s, Le Grill, Galería Rubbers, Hierbabuena, Jueves a la Mesa, La Horqueta, Leitmotiv, Miki & Choya, Minga, Museo de Humor, The New Yorker, Olsen, Pampa Films, Palo Santo, La Panadería de Pablo, Pani, Papelera Palermo, Park Hyatt Buenos Aires, Patrón, La Popular, Rooney’s Boutique Hotel, Run Don’t Walk, San Telmo Luxury Suites, Taconeando, Victoria Brown, Vitrum Hotel, Wussman.

Illustrations Emiliano Guevara, Gustavo Guevara.

Cover Photo Jocelyn Mandryk Models Evelyn Castro and Kevin Gherzi Agency Cover Management www.covermanagement.net

Front Cover Dress by Amores Trash Couture Boots models by Josefina Ferroni Cardigan, T-shirt and jeans by Key Biscayne

147 Where to Stay 148 Hotels 158 Apart-hotels 159 Hostels 160 Telos (love hotels) 160 Hotels index

161 Getting Away

162 Salta special 165 Day trips 166 Estancias

167 Resources

168 Useful information 169 Sticking around 170 City map 172 Transport and Subte map

©Copyright Time Out Group Ltd 2014 While every effort and care has been made to ensure the accuracy of the information contained in this publication, the publisher cannot accept responsibility for any errors it may contain.

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, without prior permission of Time Out. ISSN 9771851562014 00018

Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014 1

BEATRICE MURCH

City Beat

Ready to take a swing?

Welcome to The Break Club Stephen Phelan checks out the newest way to relieve the stress of BA life.

A

n ex-banker named Guillermo Benítez swings a sawed-off hockey stick in each fist, bringing both of them down on an old computer keyboard like a furious gorilla locked inside a school supply closet. His girlfriend Lorena Domínguez is more methodical, lining up empty wine and beer bottles on a metal rack to smash them one by one with an axe handle. The Ramones are playing loud and dumb over the in-house PA system. Through the bunker-like slit of the observation window, it looks and sounds as if these two are having a wonderful time, which is in fact the entire point of The Break Club.

In this brick-walled room in a corner of Palermo, half a block from the railway tracks, you are free to vent your rage upon inanimate objects. Well, not free, exactly – the price depends on what you want to break. The current rates range from AR$120 for 15 bottles to almost AR$500 to smash up an

old-model, heavy-duty, 29-inch TV set.

It’s cheaper if you bring your own items to destroy. But either way, one session here is a lot more affordable than a course of psychotherapy and offers more immediate relief.

Before they went into the Break Room itself, Guillermo and Lorena talked about the various stresses and annoyances – general and specific, personal and work-related, societal and universal – that they would carry inside with them. Guillermo had a longer list, which ranged from Buenos Aires weekday traffic, to the popular television presenter Marcelo Tinelli, to ‘the people who tell me that I am a little bit fat’.

He quit his job at Citibank a couple of years ago because of its negative effects on his physical and mental health, and is now finishing a university degree in public relations.

There was one particular professor, he said, who also made him want to smash something. Lorena and another

10 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014

first-time Break Club customer, a professional dancer named Lucia Segal, discussed the maddening way that Argentinian women can make each other feel so anxious and self-conscious about their appearance.

Lucia said that salsa dancing was not stressful at all – the opposite, in fact – but teaching people to salsa was another matter, and her more demanding clients sometimes gave her thoughts of violence. When they come out of the Break Room with nothing left to break, all three look spent and satisfied. ‘For the first couple of minutes,’ says Guillermo, ‘I was thinking about all those things we talked about. But then my mind went kind of blank, and I was just hitting things and listening to The Ramones, and I felt … happy.’

This is the entire point of The Break Club. It was founded two years ago by Guido Dodero, a local entrepreneur with a background in advertising, who felt that fellow

Argentinians would especially benefit from something like this. ‘We have a lot of anger and we’re almost proud of it,’ Guido says of his fellow patriots. ‘It’s something to do with who were are and where we come from.’

‘Italy and Spain are these aggressive Latin cultures. And as Argentines we’re so conflicted and contradictory, and it seems like everyone in Buenos Aires is seeing a shrink. That’s healthy, because you’re trying to deal with it. But maybe you just need a physical outlet …’ If the idea sounds a little gimmicky, the execution is impressively professional.

Guido believes in ‘the details’. Break Club clients have to make an appointment, and discuss in advance what they want to destroy.

Some people, Guido says, bring their own ‘very personal items’, like photographs or teddy bears, which seems like it would be painful to watch.

You can also bring your own weapons, but nothing that might endanger you or anyone else. No swords, no guns, no flame-throwers. And you can, of course, just come as you are.

A choice of implements is provided on site, from golf clubs to aluminium baseball bats, though Guido has found that the latter break surprisingly easily.

There is also mandatory safety gear – a boiler suit, work gloves, a hardhat and visor – and a waiver to sign beforehand. To use afterwards is a chill-out room with gentle music and scented candles. Guido has seen people fall asleep in there. ‘It has to do with the contrast between flying glass and total calm.’ And finally there’s the visitors’ book, where people often write down the targets of their ire. Bosses and mothers-in-law are apparently the most common hate figures, though President Cristina Fernández de Kirchner is also a popular choice. But hatred, Guido emphasizes, is not the objective here.

‘It’s not like going crazy and killing people. It’s more like an intense workout, or an extreme sport. It’s something that connects your mind and your body, which Freud said is always a good thing.’

At last, it is Time Out’s turn in the Break Room. For a weapon, Guido recommends a length of metal gas pipe – ‘you’ll need that, believe me,’ he says – and turns up our choice of music, ACDC’s ‘Back In Black’. And once inside, we soon learn that Guillermo was right. With the first swing, and the first exploding bottle, you forget what you thought you were angry about. Beating an old fax machine to death, you start to feel oddly serene. Creativity gets all the good press, but it’s actually quite stressful. As a vintage ghetto blaster detonates beneath your trusty piece of pipe, you may find yourself overjoyed by the sense of peace that comes with destruction.

The Break Club is located at Nicaragua 5144, open 8am-8pm daily, by appointment only. To make a booking, contact reservas@ thebreakclub.com. For more information go to www.thebreakclub.com, or like The Break Club on Facebook.

Dates for your diary

Crowds flock to ArteBA.

What's on when

Whether it’s film, art, wine or fashion, there’s always an excuse for a fiesta in Buenos Aires.

Here are the events to mark on your calendar up until October 2014.

May

Feria Internacional del Libro de Buenos Aires Bibliophiles flock to Buenos Aires for literary events and book stalls of leviathan proportions.

24 Apr-12 May. La Rural, Avenida Santa Fe 4201 (www.el-libro.org.ar).

International Museum Day Museums and galleries throughout the city open for free late into the night.

18 May. Various locations (www.museos.buenosaires.gov.ar).

Feria Puro Diseño Established and up-and-coming designers show off their creations at this annual design fair.

20-25 May. La Rural, Avenida Santa Fe 4201 (www.feriapurodiseno.com.ar).

June

Ciudad Emergente music festival Showcasing fresh local bands, as well as dance, street art and poetry.

4-8 June. Centro Cultural Recoleta, Junín 1930 (www.ciudademergente. gov.ar).

July

Tango Festival and World Championships Tango performances and milongas are held at Recoleta’s Centro de Exposiciones and at venues across the city. The finals of the Tango World Championships are free and take place in Luna Park (see p137).

13-26 Aug. Various locations (www.tangobuenosaires.gob.ar).

Exposición Rural For a gaucho (cowboy) experience without leaving the city, catch parades, showjumping and cattle auctions at this annual fair.

17-27 July. La Rural, Avenida Santa Fe 4201 (www.exposicionrural.com.ar).

Torneo Inicial The kick-off to the First Division football season sees teams from all around Argentina play and is sure to prompt passionate commentary.

Aug-Dec. Various locations.

August

Vinos y Bodegas Vineyards from around Argentina exhibit at the country’s biggest wine fair. Grape connoisseurs can enjoy four glorious days of wine-swilling with over a thousand labels to sample, in addition to specialist seminars and demonstrations.

17-19 Sept. La Rural, Avenida Santa Fe 4201 (www.expovinosybodegas.com.ar).

Buenos Aires Fashion Week A biannual event featuring the latest collections from local designers.

Early Aug. La Rural, Avenida ArteBA Santa Fe 4201 (www.

Whether you’re a bafweek.com.ar). serious collector or an aspiring doodle master, Follow TOBA on Facebook (www.facebook. Festival de la Bici this prestigious art fair com/timeoutba) is the place to check A celebration of bicycles in for info on local out new Latin American BA, this event includes events. talent. activities such as the 23-26 May. La Rural, Bicycle Film Festival.

Avenida Santa Fe 4201 (www.

Early Aug. Various locations arteba.org). (festivales.buenosaires.gob.ar).

WHAT’S ON

12 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014

September

Buenos Aires Festival Internacional de Cine Independiente Animado This animation film festival is a hit with both big and little kids.

Sept. Centro Cultural San Martín, Sarmiento 1551 (festivales. buenosaires.gob.ar).

Filba Internacional Authors from around the world convene simultaneously in BA and Santiago de Chile for talks and workshops at this literature festival.

24-28 Sept. Various locations (filba.org.ar).

October

Festival Buenos Aires Danza Contemporánea Offering four days of non-tango dancing, this festival features national and international contemporary acts that bounce around exciting spaces.

8-13 Oct. Various locations (festivales.buenosaires.gob.ar).

Public holidays 1 May Labour Day 2 May Public holiday 25 May Anniversary of the first national government 20 June Flag Day 9 July Independence Day 18 Aug Anniversary of the death of General José de San Martín 13 Oct Day of Respect for Cultural Diversity

Buenos Aires Dos, don’ts and dares Taryn Tilton tells you how to avoid trouble in BA.... and how to get into it. Illustrations

by Emiliano Guevara.

D0

1. Eat how the locals eat. Café con leche and medialunas for a late breakfast, maté in the a f t e r n o on, and a picada and beer for dinner (no sixpacks here – it’s a litre of beer or nothing). If you aspire to be a teenage porteña, have an alfajor and a diet coke and call it a day. You may be left starving and malnourished, but fear not, a hearty Sunday afternoon asado will make up for that.

2. Get out of Palermo as much as possible. San Telmo and Recoleta are attractive, but why not explore Caballito, Almagro or Mataderos, the neighbourhoods where English isn’t a pseudoofficial language. Make reservations with Cicerones (see p122) for a personalised tour in the barrio of your choice.

3. Go to a milonga (see 143)! Tango shows (see p145) may be flashy and fun, but it’s only at a milonga that you’ll see the real beauty of tango: two strangers improvising a dance together, expressing in movement some of the saddest songs you’ll ever hear.

4. Impress the locals with your Argentinian accent. Quick and dirty tips to fake it: the ll and y are pronounced zh. And for those who remember high school Spanish, swap the tú for vos, which conjugates in the present tense like so: take the infinitive, replace the ‘r’ with an ‘s’, and accent the last syllable, e.g. Qué hacés, boludo?

5. This is a city built on friendships, so make an effort to attend all the house parties, asados, despedidas, birthdays and weddings that Argentinians will inevitably invite you to. No, it’s not out of obligation; they’re inviting you because they want you there. Just be prepared for an onslaught of questions about your impression of Argentina.

6. Swap dinner at a stuffy restaurant for a night at a puerta cerrada (see p58). Instead of sharing a table with nothing more than a bottle of wine, at a closeddoor restaurant you can join other diners at a communal table. You’re bound to leave with a full stomach and quite possibly some new friends.

14 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014

D0N’T

1. Don’t disregard the local etiquette – that goes for every setting, but particularly with tango. Remain touching your dance partner between songs and you’ll have indicated that you plan to go home together.

Nothing wrong with doing so, but certainly a decision that should be made consciously.

2. Don’t be afraid to buy wine at the kiosko. A 30 peso bottle won’t let you down, because you’re in Argentina, for crying out loud! When in doubt, get a malbec. For cheap-and-drinkable options, try Santa Julia, Latitude 33, Quara, or Colón.

3. Don’t hog that maté. Maté is a communal activity – don’t drink without offering it to others, and take a sip when others offer it to you. Once people join in, the maté gets passed around in a circle. If you feel icky about sharing a straw, you’ve come to the wrong country.

4. Speaking of which, don’t say ‘gracias’ when someone passes you the maté, as it indicates you don’t want any more. And don’t you dare move that bombilla (straw)!

5. Don’t ignore anyone. Be sure to greet everyone with one kiss on the cheek, and again when saying goodbye. This makes slyly escaping from a party almost impossible – quiet exits do not fly.

6. Don’t arrive early. Arrive early (or even on time) to a party and you’ll have made yourself an inconvenience because the hosts won’t be prepared. Lateness is socially acceptable, if not expected. (But take heed, this doesn’t necessarily apply to tours, interviews, etc.)

DARE

1. Go for the weird things at the asado: chinchulín, morcilla, and mollejas; intestine, blood sausage, and sweetbreads, respectively.

Before you know it, you’ll be begging for more.

2. Head to a telo (see p160), as in a hotel that is paid for by the hour – you can imagine what they’re for. Take a bottle of wine and whatever else you might need. Make the most of special rates typically given on Sunday, Monday and Tuesday – even better if the room is themed.

3. Spill the beans to your taxi drivers. Tell them about the loves of your life, your recent dip into depression and your recurring dreams. They’re likely to respond with more of the same and some philosophical musings, and who knows, you may even find some clarity.

4. Get yourself to a Boca Juniors game, a football team with fans so crazy, it’s prohibited to sell beer within a 20-block radius of the stadium on match night. Very few tickets are available to the public, so go through a service like Tangol (see p122).

Not only will the company help you purchase tickets, but it’ll also give you rides to and from the event and provide you with a guide, all invaluable services in a place where things have been known to get dangerous.

5. Opt for some peace and quiet by renting a secluded house in Tigre for the weekend. Find a place on one of the many islands in the delta, and you’ll have to use a boat for transportation, even for trips to the grocery store – the perfect mix of retreat and adventure.

6. Lastly, in an effort to relive your teenage years, stay in Puerto Madero’s Reserva Ecológica Costanera Sur (see p119) past closing time. Worse comes to worst, you get taken back to the entrance in a truck with the rest of the rounded-up ne’er-do-wells.

Bonus points for doing the same in the Recoleta Cemetery (see p118), though you may never get out alive.

IMAGE COURTESY OF MUSEO DE HUMOR

George Kafka uncovers the history of historietas, the wry comic strips that dare to tackle Argentina’s tumultuous history and satirize its cultural norms.

R

icardo Siri Liniers’s illustration for the cover of the March 17th edition of The New Yorker shows a medley of bodies on the subway, supporting themselves and each other with extended limbs and subtle smiles. It’s a simple but effective snapshot of urban existence, applicable to city-dwellers around the world. As the first Argentinian to design the cover of the magazine, Liniers may be an unknown to Manhattanites. In his home country, however, he is a household name thanks to Macanudo, his cartoon strip that has run in local newspaper La Nación since 2002. Liniers is the latest Argentinian historietista (cartoonist) to triumph on a global scale, part of a long legacy of historietas (comics) that spans over 150 years and ranges from children’s diversion to militant political dissent.

Ever since the publication of El Mosquito in 1863, Argentinian cartoonists have held a mirror up to the nation’s political and social life. The medium began to gather mainstream attention at the beginning of the twentieth century as mass media spread through the nation in the form of daily newspapers. Early series such as La Familia de Don Sofanor – a family of campesinos with delusions of upper-class grandeur – and Ramona – a good-hearted but ignorant Spanish maid– related the experiences of new immigrants in the city, while Don Goyo de Sarrasqueta cast its critical eye on each week’s current affairs. By the 1920s historietas were de rigueur in the world of printed press.

It wasn’t until the 1940s (the so-called golden era of the national historieta), however, that the medium became a part of Argentina’s national identity.

Historietas were a crucial part of the pre-television entertainment industry, helped along by publishers such as Columba, Quintero and Civita who printed stand-alone comic books for both children and adults. Among the most beloved characters was 16 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014

Dante Quintero’s Patoruzú, a wealthy indigenous Argentinian with super-human strength who charmed the nation up until the late 1970s. At its peak Patoruzú was circulating 300,000 copies.

Historietas had evolved from merry supplements to a major entertainment industry.

With this national popularity firmly established, the scene was set for the arrival of two heavyweights. The first was a six-year-old girl named Mafalda, but don’t let Mafalda’s chubby cheeks and naïve curiosity fool you.

Behind her constant questioning of the world around her is author Quino’s (pen name of Joaquín Salvador Lavado) humanist critique of the way our societies function. Following the comic’s emergence in 1962, Quino released Mafalda books throughout the 1970s, which remain classic, universally read works in Argentina. Despite being a typical symbol of Buenos Aires (with her own plaza in Colegiales and a statue in San Telmo), Mafalda has a universal appeal that has transcended Argentina’s borders, gaining her huge popularity in countries like France, Italy and China.

Along with the emergence of Quino’s subtle jabs came El Eternauta, a brutally dystopian assessment of the same Argentina on which Mafalda cast her innocent eyes. El Eternauta is a juggernaut of science-fiction adventure set in a future Buenos

Aires, written during the sinister evolution of the national government into a dictatorship. The story involves a group of porteños who survive a mysterious apocalyptic snowfall and must negotiate the concrete remains of the city to outlast an alien invasion. Achieving instant national popularity upon its first publication in 1957, the comic captured the popular imagination with its familiar settings (with battle scenes at landmarks such as Plaza Congreso and the River Plate stadium) and not-so-veiled allusions to the military juntas that had recently taken control of the nation. Sequels in 1969 and 1975 included increasingly political scripts as author Héctor Germán Oesterheld lived out his own battle for survival as a member of the anti-government group Montoneros. Oesterheld disappeared in 1977 in a tragic realisation of his own dystopian vision.

Following years of censorship under military rule, the late ’80s and early ’90s saw a surge in new magazines taking back their freedom of expression and splashing generous helpings of sex, drugs and gleefully grotesque political satire across their pages. Editorials like Satiricon, Humor and Fierro restored the power of the cartoonist as a populist critical voice.

Fierro remains in circulation today as a bi-monthly supplement to BA newspaper Página 12. Upon the magazine’s re-launch in 2006 copies sold out in two days. Among Fierro’s current stars is Gustavo Sala, whose Bife Angosto strip offers a weekly dose of surrealist lunacy.

An English-language release of Macanudo in the US last year and Linier’s New Yorker cover suggest that Argentinian historietas deserve their place in the international consciousness.

football

MANIA As Argentina hopes to win big in Brazil at this year’s World Cup, Matt Chesterton recounts the Argentinian team’s history and just what makes the game a nationwide obsession.

18 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014

F

or a sense of how a densely populated metropolis might look after the zombie apocalypse, take a stroll around Buenos Aires during a World Cup football match involving the Argentinian national team, aka la selección. Quiet, isn’t it? But hardly peaceful; more like a city holding its breath than a city asleep. Even the ambulances are muted, gliding silently down avenues that usually throb with traffic. Here and there you’ll see groups of people outside electrical appliances stores, following the game through the window: these are commuters who couldn’t make it home on time, or beat cops who probably should be somewhere else.

At intervals, the city exhales. An agonised ‘OHHHHhhhhhhhhhhh!’ for a near miss. A flurry of swear words segueing into a deeper, even tenser silence for a goal by the opposition. A one-note, semi-coherent howl that begins with a ‘g’, ends with an ‘l’ and can have as many ‘o’s in between as you have breath in your lungs, for a goal by la selección.

Another kind of howl comes when an unfortunate fan miscalculates the fuse length of a celebratory firework…

So forget about any ‘don’t-tell-me-the-result-Iwant-to-watch-the-highlights-later’ strategy. If Argentina wins, the city goes bananas. If they don’t, the football equivalent of the Kübler-Ross model is triggered: denial, anger, blame-the-goalkeeper, blame-the-manager, more anger. This process lasts exactly four years.

On varying scales, such scenes are replicated across the country. It’s important. To adapt football writer Simon Kuper, when a game matters to 42 million people it ceases to be just a game.

Football fever is a global pandemic these days but few countries outside the British Isles caught it quite so early as did Argentina, and none got a stronger dose. The country had a league up and running by 1891, and played its first international (a 3-2 win over Uruguay) in 1901. In the century since, la selección have won two World Cups (1978 and 1986), 14 Copa Américas and two Olympic Games. It's a record most nations would kill for but Argentinians are like anglers, glorying in the ones they landed, forever haunted by the ones that got away.

One of those that slipped the net was the very first World Cup, hosted by a then prosperous Uruguay in 1930. At that time a major force in the world of football, Uruguay was also Argentina’s fiercest rival. So when the two teams contested the final in Montevideo the atmosphere was, to put it mildly, febrile. In his magisterial history of football The Ball is Round, David Goldblatt relates how Argentinian midfielder Luis Monti ‘received death threats to his mother that would be carried out by Argentinians if the team lost and threats from Uruguayans to be carried out if they won.’ Monti played and while no one killed his mother, Argentina lost 4-2. Across the river, Buenos Aires threw an epic tantrum. Gunfire was heard, and the Uruguayan Consulate was attacked. And for the first but by no means the last time, the press eviscerated la selección for their performance while implying that the game had probably been rigged anyway. Somehow, life went on.

It was only after Uruguay (both the country and the team) went into decline after the Second World War that Argentina vs. Brazil became the great regional clásico, or derby. All too often portrayed as samba vs. tango, the beautiful game vs. the cynical one, Pelé vs. Maradona, this most enduring of rivalries is nowhere near that simple. For one thing, the boys in yellow long ago ditched the idea that style is more important than success (they ditched it soon after they stopped succeeding) and, if anything, recent Argentinian teams have been more

gung-ho than their Brazilian counterparts. But it's true that Pelé and Maradona enjoy something other than a bromance. ‘You’re a bad example to young players,’ says Pelé. ‘You talk nonsense when you get your pills mixed up, and who let you out of the museum anyway?’ says Maradona. ‘Brazilian, Brazilian/Why so sad today?/Maradona’s so much better/So much better than Pelé!’ chant the Argentinian fans, who could never be accused of only singing when they’re winning.

Another terrace favourite goes like this: ‘He who doesn't jump is an Englishman.’ Argentina vs.

England is a rivalry that began as a kind of shared joy. When British navvies came to Buenos Aires in the 1860s to build Argentina’s railway network, they brought with them the curious habit of kicking around a stitched leather ball in their downtime.

Their ranks were filled with Scots, Welsh and Irishmen, but to the entranced locals they were simply los ingleses locos, the crazy Englishmen.

The Argentinian soccer scene remained anglicised for decades, and it wasn’t until 1934 that the word fútbol supplanted ‘football’. Then came the first administration (1946-1955) of Juan Domingo Perón, who astutely – or cynically, if you prefer – mined a vein of resentment that had always existed toward both the English abroad and the elite AngloArgentinian class at home. Perón raised a middle finger toward British capital, nationalising the railways and other British-owned industries.

De-anglicisation reached its zenith in 1953, when la selección beat England for the first time. ‘We have nationalised the railways,’ exulted a Peronist politician, ‘and now we have nationalised soccer!’

In World Cup matches since, however, England holds the edge with three victories (1962, 1966 and 2002) to Argentina’s two (1986 and 1998). So why doesn’t it feel that way? Perhaps because, with the exception of the game in 1966 – so brutal that England manager Alf Ramsey later called the Argentinian players ‘animals’ in the press – English victories have been pyrrhic; brief flares of hope on the road to inevitable elimination. But more likely because the quarter-final game at the Mexico World Cup in 1986 overshadows all the others.

We all remember that game in different ways. England fans tend to dwell on Maradona’s ‘Hand of God’ goal, punched past a flailing Peter Shilton in the 51st minute; Argentinians prefer to talk about the ‘Goal of the Century’ four minutes later, in which the same player collected the ball in his own half, spun like Nijinsky and then tore through the hapless English defence like a ‘cosmic kite’, as commentator Víctor Hugo Morales brilliantly screamed at the time.

However you look at it, Argentina won 2-1. But for many, Maradona included, it wasn’t revenge for 1966, which was a game in which the Argentinian captain got sent off. It was revenge for 1982, the year that saw a war in which 650 Argentinians died. At this distance it seems obscene to draw any kind of equivalence between a football match and the Falklands/Malvinas conflict. But perhaps George Orwell had it right when he observed that ‘Serious sport has nothing to do with fair play . . . it is war minus the shooting.’

Another reason Argentinians were so happy to win the 1986 World Cup was that it wiped out all of the bitter memories of their home victory in 1978...

When a game matters to 42 million people it ceases to be just a game.

The 1978 World Cup was not the first major international sporting event to be hosted by a brutal dictatorship (just ask Jesse Owens), but it was surely the most chaotic. When they seized power in 1976, the military junta found preparations for the tournament to be almost comically behind schedule.

Throwing money at the problem as casually as they threw political opponents from helicopters, the junta built stadiums and roads, improved communications and introduced colour TV. They also coined a slogan, ‘25 million Argentinians will play in the World Cup’ that was quietly reworded on the streets to ‘25 million Argentinians will pay for the World Cup’. It would be $700 million (against an original estimate of $70 million) wasted if Argentina were not to win, a fact that was none-too-subtly conveyed to manager César Menotti.

From this point on, we must try to sift fact from rumour. Fact one: Argentina had a strong squad, with legends such as Daniel Passerella, Ossie Ardiles and Mario Kempes forming the spine of the team. Fact two: Argentina won the World Cup. Now for the interesting stuff. Rumour one: players were given performance-enhancing drugs under orders from the junta. In his seminal book Football Against the Enemy, Simon Kuper reports one source saying that several players were so ‘high’ after the Peru match that they had to keep running for an hour before they came down, and that the team’s water boy provided most of the post-match urine samples (though presumably not the sample that showed one player to be pregnant). Rumour two: Argentina, needing to beat Peru by at least 4-0 to reach the final, bribed the latter to throw the game with a 35,000-ton shipment of free grain. The evidence is only circumstantial – but Argentina prevailed 6-0 against a decent side, so make up your own mind.

One more fact: had Argentina not won the cup, Menotti would have been pilloried by the press for not selecting a promising 17-year-old by the name of Diego Armando Maradona.

In the aftermath of the Mexico quarter-final, then England manager Bobby Robson took aim at Maradona, suggesting that the hand of God had really been the hand of a ‘rascal’. Presumably, Robson meant it as an insult. In fact, he had inadvertently pinpointed one of the core qualities of Argentina’s most enduring and beloved footballing archetype: the pibe.

The pibe (slang for ‘kid’) is indeed a rascal. Also a scallywag, a trickster and an artful dodger. Perhaps he likes to pick a pocket or two but what really makes him happy is to dribble with a football, an art he learnt on the potrero (any scrap of urban wasteland) near his birthplace.

Diego Maradona was a dirt-poor nobody who became one of the most famous men on the planet. Lionel Messi was born with a growth hormone deficiency but can ghost past men twice his size.

Neither is a paragon – Diego is a hero one week, a national laughingstock the next while Messi has occasionally been accused of reserving his best form for his club side, Barcelona – but both are pibes. Without fear they play the style of football their six-year-old former selves dreamt of playing, and on those nights when the streets are silent and the shops shut early and the city holds its breath, why the hell should they not?

Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014 19

World Cup Tips If you touch down in Buenos Aires this June, be prepared for a city splattered with light blue-andwhite striped shirts, banners and flags engulfing balconies, cars and bars. Hopes are high, with Argentina boasting the world’s best player and the finest front line in the competition. Best known as la selección, the Argentinian team dream of facing archrival Brazil in the ultimate showdown and if they were to pull off victory, expect the city to explode into a party comparable to Rio’s final night of carnival.

Group stage matches:

15 June Argentina vs Bosnia-Herzegovina, 7pm, Estadio de Maracaná, Rio de Janeiro 21 June Argentina vs Iran, 1pm, Estadio Mineirao, Belo Horizonte 25 June Argentina vs Nigeria, 1pm, Estadio Beira-Rio, Porto Alegre On these dates, the city will come to a standstill as every porteño flocks to the nearest TV screen.

You’ll know Argentina missed a goal if you hear a citywide moan. Expat hangouts like The Shamrock (see p74) are popular for English-speaking sports fanatics, and every neighbourhood parrilla will fill up with cheering and screaming locals. Below are some of Time Out’s top spots to catch a partido.

Crowds gather on Avenida de Mayo after Argentina’s defeat of the United States 6-1 at the 1930 World Cup.

El Alamo This multi-storey bar features an array of pool tables and large LED screens. Unlimited beer for women and a rowdy crowd draws in the punters regularly and even more so during the World Cup. (Uruguay 177, Recoleta, 4778 1726).

La Puerta Roja Intimate and low key, this bar invites an expat and local San Telmo crowd to watch all the matches (see p74).

La Pasiva La Pasiva offers all your favourite parrilla treats and a variety of beers to match. If you are looking to mingle with locals this is the spot, but be sure to keep any English heritage you might have to yourself unless you’d like to start a bar fight with some hearty national fans (Avenida Corrientes 1743, Tribunales, 4372 0433).

Football slang - Argie style

Use some of the finest football puteadas (insults) to help you get into the spirit. We advise you to shout them with gusto (joy) and when within easy access of an exit, just in case they come out wrong.

The Argentinian national team before playing against Uruguay in the first World Cup final in 1930.

La concha de la lora (The parrot’s vagina) A general ‘fuck you’ often directed at referees or linesmen.

President Videla in the Argentinian team’s dressing room after they won the 1978 World Cup.

20 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014

ARCHIVO GENERAL DE LA NACIÓN DPTO. DOC. FOTOGRÁFICOS. BUENOS AIRES. ARGENTINA.

Morfón (A ball hogger) A selfish player who refuses to pass the ball.

Sos un muerto (You are a dead man) In the broadest terms, a useless footballer in any aspect of the game.

Burro (Donkey) A clumsy player. The word is normally screamed when a player blasts the ball over the bar.

Pecho frío (Cold chest) Someone who turns to jelly or underperforms when they are most needed.

Cagón (Shits himself) A bottler, a player who crumbles under pressure.

La pelota no se mancha (The ball doesn’t get dirty) A famous Maradona phrase. When Maradona retired from Boca Juniors he made a now infamous statement that things outside of football shouldn’t get mixed with the game – things like his scandalous private life.

Food & Drink

Photograph: 878

CafĂŠs

22

Restaurants

27

Food & Drink index

68

Cafés

A perfectly made cappuccino at Birkin Coffee Bar.

A Brewing Coffee Revolution Allie Lazar rounds up the crop of expert baristas and cafés that are leading the way in the BA coffee revolution.

I

n a city known for cortados, historical cafés and an all-around thriving café culture, finding a decent cup of coffee made by a professional barista used to be an almost impossible task. But a selective group of coffee aficionados and budding baristas is standing up against decades of poor quality beans and swiftly hurling them out of Buenos Aires’s most sprawling cafés, changing the way this city drinks the jolting liquid gold.

Many factors go into preparing a perfect espresso. It begins with a high quality bean, skillfully analysed,

roasted and custom blended to achieve maximum flavour and aromatic potential. The beans are then freshly ground and the brew is prepared in a clean machine (at the correct temperature, pressure and time, of course), all by a trained barista. While a still relatively small number of independent coffee shops in Buenos Aires may follow that equation, a new bar has been set for coffee expectations. Once you seek out the tightly knit community of professional baristas, you’ll quickly unearth the coffee of your dreams.

Leaders in this Buenos Aires

22 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014

barista insurgency, Analía Álvarez and José Vales founded the Centro de Estudios de Café in 2010, the first barista and coffee school in the country, which has trained and educated many baristas and coffee enthusiasts. After travelling extensively to coffee cultivating communities throughout the Americas and studying coffee tasting and roasting, Álvarez and Vales returned to Buenos Aires to play their part in transforming the local coffee scene. ‘Argentina doesn’t have a coffee drinking culture, it has a café-going culture,’ Analía explains.

‘Porteños ritually frequent beautifully decorated cafés, but very few of these coffee shops actually have trained professionals who know how to prepare coffee.’

The Centro de Estudios de Café gave birth to its first coffee child in 2012, Coffee Town (Bolívar 976, www.coffeetownargentina.com), a small stand located inside the San Telmo Market, and in early 2014 opened its second bar inside the mercado, featuring a coffee roaster.

Customers travel from afar for a taste of Coffee Town’s fair trade coffee that comes from over 12 different growing regions across the world, as well as the signature special blend roasted in house. The staff includes trained baristas many of whom studied at the coffee school, like head barista Agustina Román, who at only 23 years old, won the National Barista Competition in 2013. Popular cafés like coffeehouse newcomer Ninina Bakery (see p25) want to get in on the good coffee trend. While many Palermo hotspots with incredible interiors tend to lose marks by serving a less than decent coffee, Ninina serves Coffee Town’s house brand 60 granos.

Daniel Cifuente, co-owner and head barista at Lattente (see p25), also quickly became the model for quality coffee served by skilled baristas. ‘All of our baristas go through an intense training process.

There are many factors that go into making a good barista – hunger to learn, technical knowledge, practice, charisma,’ Cifuente explains, ‘but the most important thing is to have passion and a deep respect for the profession.’

Lucila Zeballos, owner of Birkin Coffee Bar (see p26) is a faithful disciple of Lattente. ‘We have two baristas who have been trained by Lattente on every aspect of the coffee making process.’ Even the most skeptical and traditional café con leche drinkers have become Birkin addicts, visiting for a daily dose of the house speciality, the cappuccino, which is made by Latte Art Champion and Birkin barista Natalia Montoya. ‘We’ve had to educate the consumer, explain the Italian method and why we serve our coffee differently from other Buenos Aires cafés,’ Zeballos says, ‘but after many of our customers tried our product, they could instantly

taste the superior quality and keep coming back for more.’

A similar story rings true for Victoria Angarita and Allan Dorgan, owners of Full City Coffee House (see p24), who regularly organise workshops and classes for baristas-in-training. The ColombianBritish couple opened the café in 2011, which started as a project to fill a personal void of finding that decent cup of coffee. With the support of Victoria’s father who is director of Educafé, a coffee education center in Colombia, the couple sourced Colombian beans to produce three different house blends of top quality.

A quality product and highly trained barista means everything for Enrico Aguggiaro, owner of In Bocca al Lupo (see p24), who, like many of the others, opened his Palermo café more out of personal necessity than a business drive. Italian-born, Aguggiaro worked for prestigious Illy Coffee for many years as a technical consultant, in charge of controlling the preparation of Illy in coffee shops and bars across Italy. ‘The problem with much of the coffee that is served in Buenos Aires is not necessarily the quality, but the staff.

Staff needs to be trained how to make coffee and how to clean the machine. The staff needs to care.’

Rodrigo Rochas, a barista who opened up the tiny coffee speciality shop Barrio Cafetero (Florida 833, 4313 5669, www.barriocafetero. com), is also giving it a go in this coffee revolution, ‘Young people in Argentina are entering the world of wine and food, but very few appreciate a good quality café correctly made.’

Many in the industry compare this new coffee revolution to the changes the Argentinian wine and restaurant world underwent in the past decade.

Not too long ago, malbec was downed with soda water and ice to make it more palatable, and restaurants didn’t stray much beyond parrilla and empanadas.

While we probably won’t be saying goodbye to the traditional Buenos Aires café anytime soon, we can look to baristas, roasters and coffee loving consumers as the catalysts to change Buenos Aires’s trajectory for a strong, caffeinated future.

Espresso guide The typical Argentinian café menu decoded. Order a chico (in a small cup) or jarrito (in an elongated cup).

Cortado A shot of espresso topped with a thin layer of milk and foam.

Café con leche Espresso and milk in equal measure.

Café con crema Espresso and cream in equal measure.

Lágrima A ‘teardrop’ of espresso and lots of milk.

The basics

HOW TO USE THE LISTINGS This section presents our selection of the city’s best cafés. !denotes a place we particularly recommend.

NEW is for a café that has opened in the last six months or so.

Dsignals free Wi-Fi for customers.

The Centre !Café Tortoni Argentina’s oldest café is everything you’d expect it to be: grand and charmingly ceremonial. Since opening in 1858, this glorious place has played host to the depths of BA’s bohemia, the heights of its literati and the full political spectrum. Today, it’s teeming with camera-wielding tourists, but Tortoni is still a must. Beyond the wooden tables and marble floor, a salon hosts tango shows every evening at 8.30pm (AR$170).

Avenida de Mayo 829, entre Piedras y Tacuarí (4342 4328/www.cafetortoni. com.ar). Subte A, Piedras/bus 17, 64, 86. Open 8am-2am Mon-Fri; 8am-3am Sat; 8am-1am Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map C4. D Clásica y Moderna A pioneer in the bookshop-bar-café model, Clásica y Moderna’s exposed brick walls, wooden tables, soft lighting and classic jazz attracts a predominantly middle-aged, intellectual crowd. The café serves food all day long, and nightly live tango and jazz music and occasional literary events liven up the ambience from 9pm.

Avenida Callao 892, entre Paraguay y Avenida Córdoba (4812 8707/www. clasicaymoderna.com). Subte D, Callao/

El Gato Negro Done up like an elegant general store, this historic art deco café opened its doors in 1928, as a purveyor of exotic herbs and spices. It still peddles the city’s best selection, and the additional array of imported coffees, specialist teas and jars of condiments give some idea of the quality of its menu.

Waistcoat-wearing waiters hover behind the long wooden counter or weave between the small round tables, serving hot chocolate and orange tea, cinnamon-spiked coffee and wickedly good alfajores. Go home with a bag of aromatic coffee, freshly roasted and ground on site.

Avenida Corrientes 1669, entre Montevideo y Rodriguez Peña (4374 1730/www.elgatonegronet.com.ar).

Subte B, Callao/bus 24, 29, 39, 105.

Open 9am-10pm Mon; 9am-11pm Tue, Wed; 9am-midnight Thur; 9am-2am Fri, Sat; 3-10pm Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D4. D Grand Café Adding a splash of colour and panache to the Plaza San Martín area, this New York-style café, opened by owners of Gran Bar Danzón (see p42), is primarily aimed at office workers. Behind the immense windows and orange awning, a lounge area gives the café a contemporary feel. A pot of French press coffee and a dulce de leche éclair is just one of the many merienda options, while on the savoury side, the chalkboard menu promises falafel veggie burgers, roast beef and pastrami sandwiches, and fresh salads.

Basavilbaso 1340, entre Juncal y Avenida del Libertador (4893 9333/ www.grandcafe.com.ar). Subte C, Retiro/bus 10, 17, 28, 92, 93, 100, 101. Open 8am-8pm Mon-Fri; 10am-4pm Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D6. D

Bar Plaza Dorrego With outdoor seating in atmospheric Plaza Dorrego, this century-old watering hole perfectly embodies the tanguero spirit of San Telmo. Inside, a pale lemon hue is cast over the dusty bottles and etched walls, while tango crackles out over black-and-white images of the one and only Carlos Gardel. It’s an ideal spot from where to watch the Sunday market goings-on; or on a warm evening to drain a frosty chopp (a small glass of draught beer) while dismembering handfuls of complimentary monkey nuts.

Defensa 1098, y Humberto 1° (4361 0141). Bus 9, 10, 20, 126, 195. Open 8am-1am Mon-Fri; 8am-3am Sat, Sun. No credit cards. Map B4. !El Federal Built in 1864, El Federal is one of BA’s most historic bars, and one of the best kept, with magnificent cash registers, faded lamps and a collection of old advertising posters. There’s a standard set of coffees, beers and spirits and a long list of snacks and sandwiches – the lomo completo beef sandwich comes with all, and we mean all the trimmings, only just slipping in under the never-eat-anything-bigger-than-yourhead regulations. The picadas – cold meat and cheese platters – are a good option, but ask the waiter to hold the wieners if cold, chopped hot-dog sausages put you off your stride. If

you’re lucky, you’ll be treated to an ad hoc performance of tango standards; if you’re really lucky, it’ll be by Ana, one of the finest singers in San Telmo, who sings bar to bar, hat in hand.

Carlos Calvo 599, y Perú (4300 4313/ www.barelfederal.com.ar). Bus 9, 10, 17, 24, 29, 86, 93, 126, 152, 195.

Open 8am-2am Mon-Thur, Sun; 8am-4am Fri, Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map B4. D

Recoleta La Biela A stone’s throw from Recoleta Cemetery, the terrace of this historic, Parisianstyle café is a good bet for peoplewatching. It’s named after the connecting rod in car engines, testimony to the fact that famous motor racing drivers hung out here in the 1950s, as are the framed pictures of race cars still hanging on the walls. Nowadays, the massive rubber tree outside shelters a terrace packed to the brim with tourists and Recoleta’s most monied residents.

Avenida Quintana 596, y Ortiz (4804 0449/www.labiela.com). Bus 10, 17, 59, 60, 101, 108, 110, 124. Open 7am-2am Mon-Sat; 8am-2am Sun. Credit AmEx, V. Map E5. D Florencio Among the exclusive buildings in an affluent and tranquil Recoleta street is

San Telmo Bar Británico Bar Británico has sat quietly on an iconic San Telmo corner since time immemorial – that is, for pedants, since 1928. Named after the British railway workers who frequented the bar in its early days, it briefly changed its name to ‘El Tánico’ during the Malvinas/Falklands war. Days blur into nights at this BA café-bar, where you can nurse a coffee or beer for as long as you like, while you and the taxi drivers watch the world go by through huge picture windows. A change of ownership and a refurbishment had the whole barrio up in arms a few years back, and though it’s not exactly as it once was – the old-school, Spanish Civil War waiter-owners are gone, and the toilets are now fit for use – this place still, without exaggeration, encapsulates the very essence of BA café culture.

Brasil 399, y Defensa (4361 2107).

Bus 29, 61, 62, 152. Open 24hrs daily.

No credit cards. Map A4.

La Crespo (see p26).

Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014 23

Cafés

While Microcentro’s old-school cafés continue to charm us with their dickie-bowed waiters and mountains of medialunas, a wave of stylish, quality cafés has swept through Palermo and Villa Crespo, meaning BA café culture is beginning to resemble Shoreditch and Brooklyn as much as its supposed spiritual parent, Paris.

New spots such as Birkin Coffee Bar (see p26) and Ninina Bakery (see p25) combine minimal decor with inventive menus, attracting the MacBook-toting Palermites and Recoleta ladies who lunch.

When it comes to eating out, brunch is the word. Sunday afternoon with eggs Benedict in Malvón’s (see p26) leafy garden is the perfect cure for the fiercest BA hangovers, while bustling Oui Oui (see p25) is a drop of affordable luxury amid Palermo’s high-end eateries.

Those with a sweet tooth will feel at home in BA with confiterías (cake shops) and heladerías (ice-cream parlours) on virtually every block.

Time Out’s favourites include Pani (see p24), with its extensive range of cheesecakes, and Jauja (Avenida Cerviño 3901), a Patagonian ice-cream specialist that flaunts the most heavenly flavours.

bus 10, 12, 60, 75, 111, 124, 152.

Open 8am-2am Mon-Fri; 9am-2am Sat; 6pm-midnight Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D4. D

Cafés

Uriburu 1597, y Pacheco de Melo (4805 0616/www.teaconnection. com.ar). Bus 10, 37, 59, 60, 102, 110, 118, 124. Open 8am-11.30pm daily.

Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map E5. D Other locations Montevideo 1655, Recoleta (5199 0363); Arenales 2102, Barrio Norte (4823 9254); Cerviño 3550, Palermo (4802 0573); Echeverría 2102, Belgrano (4784 5545).

Palermo Bartola Every weekend Bartola’s inviting pink and blue patio chairs are filled to the brim with chatty locals and foreigners.

The colourful exterior may be responsible for attracting the crowds, but the friendly staff, jugs of the best lemonade in town and all-round buena onda keep them coming time and time again. Arrive with an appetite and knock dead a juicy hamburger with caramelised onion or a pillow-soft ciabatta sandwich stuffed with grilled chicken, rocket, guacamole and cream cheese. Lighter appetites will be satisfied by a dazzling array of fresh salads. If this spot is full, try the new addition to the Bartola family across the street (though these days both are likely to have a queue out the door).

Gurruchaga 1795, y Costa Rica (4833 6522/www.facebook.com/bartolabsas).

Bus 39, 41, 67, 93, 152. Open noon-midnight daily. Credit MC, V. Map H3. D Other location Gurruchaga 1806, Palermo (4831 3079).

Pani.

a tiny patisserie with superlative pastries and cakes. Foodies will travel for miles to sink their teeth into a berry-topped cheesecake or caramelised pear tart made by occasional TV celebrity chef María Laura D’Aloisio. If you favour something savoury, try a sandwich in home-made ciabatta or stay for the dinner on Wednesday and Friday evenings. Adventurous bakers can try recreating Florencio’s divine desserts at home, as D’Aloisio also shares recipes on her Facebook page.

Francisco de Vittoria 2363, entre Guido y Agote (4807 6477).

Bus 10, 37, 60, 102, 110. Open 9am-8pm Mon, Tue, Thur, Sat; 9am-midnight Wed, Fri. No credit cards. Map E5.

Pani There are no half measures taken at Pani – everything is done to the maximum. Plush, custom-made seating, velvet drapes, golden lamps, a pastry display case filled with brownies, alfajores and cheesecakes exploding with dulce de leche and chocolate, even the bathrooms are outfitted to the max with custom

graffiti art. The menu is appropriately extravagant, covering every meal of the day and creating a new one: ‘teanner’, multiple courses of sweet and savoury – think croque monsieurs, salmon bagels, scones and cakes – made for two. Equally worth visiting is the original Pani in Palermo, which just received a full makeover.

Vicente López 2056, entre Uriburu y Junín (4804 3210/www.pani.com.ar).

Bus 17, 60, 93, 110. Open 9am-11pm Sun-Thur; 9am-1am Fri, Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map E5. D Other location Nicaragua 6044, Palermo (4772 6420).

Tea Connection This airy, modern teahouse is a good place to detox from the bus fumes, ciggies and espressos that fuel the porteño engine. An extensive menu of green, black and herbal blends are served loose leaf in a generous pot to keep you satisfied all afternoon, and an accompanying timer ensures the leaves are perfectly drawn. The menu emphasizes fresh, healthy salads, wraps and juices, but there are plenty of sweet treats to satisfy the breakfast and merienda crowd.

24 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014

Decata Since opening Decata has become a refuge for Palermites bored of the kitschy-cute cafés typical of the zona.

Here, it’s all slick, modern and Manhattan. As nice as the interior is, with its black-and-white tiled floor and exposed brick walls, it’s the rooftop terrace that’s the real star of this show. Arguably the best terrace in the barrio, it’s the perfect place to soak up the sun among neatly trimmed potted plants and impeccably groomed men and women. You could be good and order one of the delicious vegetable-packed salads, but this is also the place to be naughty – the selection of cakes includes a rich Oreo cheesecake and the smell of freshly baked pain au chocolat is hard to resist.

Honduras 6100, y Dorrego (4775 3143/www.decataonline.com.ar). Bus 39, 93, 111, 140, 151. Open 8am-9pm daily. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H2. D Other location Soldado de la Independencia 670, Las Cañitas (4773 9054). !Full City Coffee House Quality coffee and decent service are two things Buenos Aires doesn’t naturally excel at. Full City Coffee House filled that void and became the caffeine addict’s favourite locale when it opened in Chacarita, and fans anxiously awaited its re-opening in the more advantageous Palermo Soho.

The English-Colombian owners are bona fide coffee connoisseurs, importing full-bodied arabica beans from Colombia and roasting them in BA. Coffee is the star here, but fresh juices made from exotic Colombian fruits, arepas, paninis and salads are equally delicious. Full City also offers classes on the art of crafting coffee and espresso.

Thames 1535, y Pasaje Soria (4833 6774/ www.fullcitycoffeeco.com). Bus 34, 39, 151, 168. Open 10am-8pm Mon-Fri; 11am-8pm Sat; 11am-6pm Sun. Credit MC, V. Map G2. D

Boulangerie Cocu Brie and broccoli quiche, baguettes, and brioche: the owners of this French bakery and café have brought a petit Paris to Palermo. But there’s no Gallic ponce here: just good, honest food (try the Campesino sandwich – a crunchy baguette loaded with chicken, cheese, sundried tomatoes, grilled almonds and baba ganoush) and minimalist, whitewashed decor that lends the place a laid-back, beach-style vibe.

Malabia 1510, y Gorriti (4831 4675/www.boulangeriecocu.

In Bocca al Luppo com). Bus 15, 39.

The name, the coffee, Open 9am-8pm the menu and the radio Merienda time Mon-Fri; 10am-8pm are all Italian at this Cafés usually offer Sat, Sun. No credit unpretentious café. breakfast and merienda cards. Map G2. D Inside, it’s all specials, often a coffee, psychedelic sofas, medialunas or tostadas !Coco Marie quaint teacup-shaped and orange juice for a Baked sweets and lights, cream walls and reasonable bikinis have never got that comforting hum price. along so well, at least not of an espresso machine at until swimsuit and lingerie work. But it’s the interior patio boutique Coco Marie transformed that really makes this little spot its back patio into a secret garden-like special, with its exposed brick walls café. Surrounded by high, ivy-covered and sunshine – a perfect oasis in the walls, it’s the perfect oasis to retreat to middle of Palermo Hollywood. The after a day of shopping. Sip an apple, lasagne and panini make for a filling coconut and almond smoothie with a lunch, while the custard-filled cornetti home-made pastry. Or if you still (Italian croissants) accompanied by haven’t shopped till you’ve dropped, Illy coffee are the perfect morning grab an Illy coffee to go at the front of pick-me-up. the boutique.

Bonpland 1965, entre Costa Rica y Nicaragua (4774 3692). Bus 39, 93, Armenia 1764, entre El Salvador y 108, 111. Open 8.30am-8pm Tue-Fri; Costa Rica (4833 0950). Bus 15, 151, 9.30am-8pm Sat, Sun. Credit AmEx, 168. Open 11am-8pm daily. Credit MC, V. Map H3. D AmEx, MC, V. Map G2. D

TOP TIP!

Le Pain Quotidien The rustic chic decor and communal table concept of Le Pain Quotidien may be nothing new to the international traveller, but the Belgian chain is a welcome addition to Palermo’s merienda scene. Your bread basket will still come with dulce de leche, but you’ll find salmon tartines and flaky croissants in favour of tostadas and medialunas and coffee comes in large mugs to last a whole afternoon. You can choose an individual table over communal, but the weary single traveller may appreciate the company of fellow diners. In any case, be sure to grab a fresh baguette or pistachio-pear madeleine on the way out.

Armenia 1641, entre Honduras y El Salvador (4831 5709/www. lepainquotidien.com.ar). Bus 36, 39, 140. Open 9am-8.30pm daily. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3. D Other locations Jeronimo Salguero 3075, Palermo (2073 1866); Sucre 2151, Belgrano (4788 4738).

Mark’s Deli & Coffee House This long-time Palermo favourite occupies one of the best corners in the neighbourhood – and shows no sign of giving it up anytime soon. Whether you come for the rich slices of cake, ice-cold lemonade, or even just to people-watch, Mark’s is the perfect place to loiter away an afternoon. For a heartier lunch, sink your teeth into a large smoked salmon sandwich, or munch on giant chocolate-chip cookies and moist budines while watching the massed ranks of MacBook-owning foreigners and fashion identicats – mostly young, female and leaning towards the uppermost end of the beauty spectrum.

El Salvador 4701, y Armenia (4832 6244/www.markspalermo.com.ar). Bus 15, 39, 55. Open 8.30am-9.30pm Mon-Sat; 10am-9pm Sun. No credit cards. Map G3. D

NEW Ninina Bakery The latest addition to Palermo uses minimal decor and large windows to create a delightful spot for sipping on excellent coffee or unusual juices in healthy combos like carrot, orange and ginger. While main courses lean towards the more expensive side of things, the quality makes it undeniably worth the splurge – the vegetarian burger is fast becoming a

Palermo legend. Before you leave, wander to the back of the café to watch the chefs at work in the open kitchen; perhaps you’ll be able to pick up the recipe for their melt-in-yourmouth brownies.

Gorriti 4738, entre Malabia y Armenia (4832 0070/www.ninina.com). Bus 15, 39, 55, 57, 140, 151, 168. Open 8am-9pm Mon-Fri; 9am-9pm Sat, Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2. D

Cafés

Lattente Argentina’s champion barista, Daniel Cifuentes, whips up the city’s best coffee from this bright little café.

Brewing a smooth-as-Fonzie Colombian roast, Lattente is one of the few places in the city where you can get a top-class (and take-away) cappuccino, macchiato, mocha, flat white and Americano. Along with arty doodles on top of your cuppa Joe, Cifuentes does spiked versions with Baileys, Malibu and sambuca.

Thames 1891, entre Nicaragua y Costa Rica (4833 1676/www.latte-n-te.com).

Bus 34, 39, 55. Open 9am-8pm Mon-Sat; 10am-8pm Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3. D

!Oui Oui This gorgeous French-style café is one of the nicest places Time Out knows for breakfast, lunch, tea or any of the other possible daytime repasts. The star player of those meals is undoubtedly brunch, which thanks to its generous portions and a well-priced menu, sees queues out the door and plates of eggs Benedict, French toast and waffles flying out to every table.

Croissants, baguettes, salads and pain au chocolat are all listed on the blackboards that preside over the jolly, pastel-painted interior; and despite the cake stands and floral prints, there’s nothing twee about this place – it gets it just right, from the friendly service to the effortlessly good food.

Nicaragua 6068, entre Arévalo y Dorrego (4778 9614/www.ouioui.com. ar). Subte D, Ministro Carranza/bus 39, 41, 57, 67, 161, 168, 194. Open 8am-8pm Tue-Fri; 10am-8pm Sat, Sun. No credit cards. Map H3. D Other location Nicaragua 6099, Palermo (4776 4442).

Top 5 Alfajores In its simplest form, Argentina’s favourite treat is just dulce de leche sandwiched between two biscuits, but these days alfajores can be found in almost every possible combination of dulce de leche, chocolate, biscuit and more. See below for Time Out’s picks of the best on the market.

Cachafaz Easily the most luxurious alfajores to be found at a kiosko, and by most counts, the best alfajores ever.

Jorgito Sold in packs of six, these alfajorcitos filled with dulce de leche, chocolate mousse or fruit are a cheap option for those who are willing to share.

Havanna Café chain Havanna makes a killing selling its famed alfajores, whose chocolate and dulce de leche variety packs are the go-to souvenir to take home to friends and family.

Milka For chocolate, chocolate and more chocolate, nothing beats the dozens of alfajor varieties made by chocolate brand Milka; keep your eyes peeled for their distinctive purple packaging.

Blanco y Negro These double-decker alfajores drenched in dark or white chocolate are formidable towers of sweetness, perfect to accompany a bitter shot of espresso.

Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014 25

Cafés

New in town Birkin Coffee Bar

BA café culture is something of a paradox: charming cafés on every corner, a love of pastries, two meals a day dedicated to coffee and sweets treats (breakfast and merienda to the uninitiated) and yet, terrible coffee. Birkin Coffee Bar has just one thing to add to the local café scene – the richest, strongest cappuccino in town. Oh, and there are also fresh pastries, old school marble countertops, zigzag tiled floor, cushy banquet seating, decadent brunch options and a rack of fashion glossies to flip through while you merendar.

There’s a small selection of wine and aperitifs for the happy hour crowd, an all-round cool vibe and good food, but it’s all about the coffee here.

República Árabe Siria 3061, y Cabello (4843 7470). Bus 10, 57, 60, 93. Open 9am-9pm Tue-Fri; 10am-9pm Sat, Sun. No credit cards. Map G4. D Tatan This dinky little café in Palermo Hollywood has dared to branch off from the ubiquitous café con leche and medialunas spread by specialising in something sweeter: chocolate. Lots and lots of it, in all different forms.

Although chocoholics might want to sink their teeth into the softest and richest of brownies (there is a white chocolate version too), the speciality of the casa is the decadent, creamy hot chocolate – you can choose from white, bitter or milk chocolate, and add flavours such as ginger, vanilla, mint and mixed spices. As if home-made Belgian hot choc wasn’t enough of a temptation, the comfy, colourful armchairs and friendly staff will make it even easier to wile away an afternoon here.

Nicaragua 5606, y Fitz Roy (4778 3594). Bus 39, 93, 108, 111, 166.

Open 9.30am-8pm Mon-Sat. Credit V. Map H3. D

Almagro and Villa Crespo Café Crespin On any given day, this sign of the trendification (or Palermification) of Villa Crespo is packed with a tribe of twenty- to thirtysomethings clicking away on MacBooks and young parents out for a leisurely brunch with the baby. Maybe they come for the diner decor and the free Wi-Fi, but Time Out’s betting the menu has something to do with it. The intriguing mash-up of greasy-spoon hangover food mixed with a healthy selection of breakfasts, salads and sandwiches appeals to hipster types and mum and dad too.

Crespin’s crowning accomplishment is the American bakery, complete with New York-style cheesecake, Key lime pie, cinnamon rolls, cupcakes and brownies: sure to put any pangs of homesickness to rest.

Vera 699, y Acevedo, Villa Crespo (4855 3771/www.cafecrespin.com.ar).

Bus 55, 60. Open 8am-8pm Tue-Fri; 9am-8pm Sat; noon-7pm Sun. No credit cards. Map G3. D !La Crespo Despite boasting the world’s seventh largest Jewish population, Argentina lacks solid options for homesick Jewish-cuisine aficionados (the Kosher McDonald’s in Abasto Shopping Centre doesn’t quite cut it). Luckily, there’s hope in this hidden Villa Crespo gem of a café. One of the few places in the city to offer a decent bagel, La Crespo serves up house specialities like knishes (dumplings), strudel and potato latkes. The hot pastrami

Voltaire This cosy country kitchen, located on the corner of its pretty namesake street, serves up simple, tasty and reasonably priced nosh for breakfast and lunch. Individual passionfruit cheesecakes and delicate muffins are hard to resist, but the fresh pumpkin salad, with poached egg and sun-dried tomatoes might just be one of the best light meals available in the city. There’s a cute café on every corner of this barrio, but fortunately Voltaire’s food and drink is as charming as the location. For, as Voltaire himself once wrote, ‘Nothing would be more tiresome than eating and drinking if God had not made them a pleasure as well as a necessity.’

Carranza 1946, y Voltaire (4777 4132). Bus 39, 93, 108, 111. Open 9am-7pm Tue-Fri; 9.30am-7pm Sat, Sun. No credit cards. Map H3. D 26 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014

sandwich is a must: stacked high with 200g of thin pastrami slices, served with pickled cucumbers, caramelised onions and Dijon mustard – all on multigrain bread. There’s also a good selection of freshly baked goodies and authentic New York cheesecake.

Thames 612, y Vera, Villa Crespo (4856 9770/www.lacrespo.com). Bus 19, 55, 65, 109. Open 11.30am8.30pm Mon-Fri; 11.30am-6pm Sat, Sun. No credit cards. Map G1. D !Malvón This colourful and beautifully decorated café-cum-bakery is the perfect refuge for an afternoon coffee or lunch in the patio out back. The eclectic menu covers both the sweet and savoury, with nutella-filled French toast for the former and New York-inspired pastrami sandwiches for the latter. Recently, Malvón opened a second location in the gorgeous Palermo Botánico neighbourhood, meaning you’ll be able to walk off a weekend brunch with a stroll through the leafy streets. Seeing as this café is one of the few places in town to sell New York-style bagels, the second location is a welcome addition.

Serrano 789, y Aguirre, Villa Crespo (4774 2563/www.malvonba.com.ar).

Bus 19, 34, 55. Open 9am-8pm daily.

Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G1. D Other location Lafinur 3275, Palermo (4807 1458).

Las Violetas Opened in 1884, renovated in 1920, used as a secret meeting place for political revolutionaries in the ’80s, abandoned by its owner and taken over by squatters in the ’90s, only to be reclaimed by the neighbourhood and

completely revitalised just before the 2001 crisis – well, needless to say Las Violetas has an interesting history. The sprawling art nouveau café is still on its feet today – the bustling atmosphere and delectable assortment of cakes keeps trade flooding in. Soaring ceilings, exquisite stained-glass windows and pristine white-jacketed waiters combine to make this an extra-special café spot.

Avenida Rivadavia 3899, y Medrano, Almagro (4958 7387/www.lasvioletas. com). Subte A, Castro Barros/bus 5, 86, 128, 132. Open 6am-1am daily.

Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map E1. D

Belgrano Möoi Decorated with floral textiles, knitted tea cosies and shabby-chic furnishings, this light-filled converted house is one of the city’s loveliest spaces. Möoi is the kind of café you come to for breakfast and find yourself still there 12 hours later, downing a vodka-spiked mango lassi while laughing along to the stand-up comedy. In between you’ll have worked your way through everything but the kitchen sink: wraps, bagels, sandwiches, salads, soups and risottos, all loaded with market-fresh produce. When chef Jessica Lekerman concocted her ‘natural and healthy’ menu, she was clearly exempting her sinful chocolate cake, topped with berries, banana ice-cream and mint.

Cuba 1985, entre Sucre y Echeverría (4783 9000/www.mooirestaurant. com.ar). Subte D, Juramento/bus 15, 29, 44, 55, 168. Open 8am-1am Mon-Fri; 8am-2am Sat, Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. D

Full City Coffee House (see p24).

Restaurants

El Baqueano.

Eating across Argentina without leaving Buenos Aires Allie Lazar uncovers the capital’s best spots to try Argentina’s varied regional cuisines.

I

t’s no surprise that the culinary offerings of the eighth largest country in the world are just as vast as its countryside. Regional specialities abound in 23 provinces, a melting pot of Italian, Spanish, German and indigenous cultures.

While it’s nearly impossible to tackle a culinary trek across Argentina in just a few short weeks, we can still journey into the Capital to discover the country’s distinct gastronomic delights and flavours, without ever having to leave Buenos Aires.

Travelling down south to Patagonia, the regions of Bariloche, El Bolsón, Península de Valdés and Puerto Madryn flourish with lamb, trout, wild berries, shellfish, smoked meats and chocolate. The cuisine of restaurant El Federal (San Martín 1015, 4312 0171, www. elfederalrestaurante.com) spans Patagonia, the north-west provinces and La Pampa, but the signature dish, Patagonian lamb braised for six hours in a malbec wine sauce, is like a trip to Argentina’s south in every bite. Chef Paula Comparatore takes empanadas to the next level: deep-fried and stuffed with cordero estofado, a slow roasted lamb stew traditional to Patagonia. Rapa Nui (Arenales 2302, 4827 1431, www.

chocolatesrapanui.com.ar), owned and operated by the Fenoglio family, has been a Bariloche chocolate powerhouse since 1932 thanks to its bittersweet cacao and raspberries covered in dark chocolate, while the home-made ice-cream ranks it as one of the top helado spots in Buenos Aires. Helados Jauja (Cerviño 3901, 4801 8126, www. heladosjauja.com) also brings a sweet taste of Patagonia to the porteño city, with ingredients like goat’s milk and boysenberries, and blueberries from El Bolsón.

The cuisine of the north-west provinces like Salta, Tucumán, Catamarca and Jujuy offers an abundance of stick-to-your-ribs corn dishes, meaty stews and dozens of varieties of soul warming empanadas. Hole-in-the wall restaurant Ña Serapia (Avenida Las Heras 3357, 4801 5307) is known for its salteño fare and is all about the tamales, humitas and empanadas. The tamales salteños are made with shredded meat and corn flour, wrapped in chalas (cornhusk) and steamed or boiled, while the corn-based humita is prepared in a similar way to the tamal, but made with fresh creamed corn, onions, red peppers, spices,

diced goat’s cheese and served with a spicy sauce on the side. La Cocina (Avenida Pueyrredón 2501, 4825 3171), a dive in Recoleta specialising in food from Catamarca, draws in the crowds with signature dishes like the empanada Pikachu, a baked empanada loaded with cheese, onions and spicy sauce.

El Sanjuanino (Avenida Callao 1515, 4804 2909) offers classic San Juan cuisine and is a go-to spot to taste traditional wonders from the country’s Cuyo region, exciting eaters with a rendition of Argentina’s national dish, locro, a hominy, squash, potato, meat and chorizo stew typically devoured during patriotic holidays. To get a modern taste of the entire northern and western regions, Cumaná (see 42) makes for a young and lively scene where you can try favourites like cazuelas and guisos, stews typically served in a clay pot, and wood oven empanadas. Cumaná, along with sister restaurant Las Cabras (see p45), are some of the only places in the city that offer yerba maté and tereré service, allowing you to blend in with locals by sipping on the traditional loose leaf herbal drink from a gourd, served either hot or cold, respectively.

Influenced by a new culinary movement, Nueva Cocina Argentina (New Argentinian Cuisine), a group of Argentinian cooks and chefs are beginning to use native ingredients to form a national culinary identity, taking aspects of cooking and products from across the country to combine into a united cuisine.

A leader in this contemporar y wave of Argentinian cooking, Fernando Rivarola, grew up eating ingredients found in his small home town of Necochea on the Atlantic coastline. Today Rivarola heads the kitchen at El Baqueano (see p34), an innovative eaterie specialising in carnes autóctonas de pelo, pluma, río y mar (native meats of fur, feathers, river and sea). The stars of Rivarola’s menu are beef alternatives like ostrich, llama, alligator, chinchilla, hare and wild boar. Standout dishes on the menu range from a llama carpaccio from the north-west, or a ñandú (rhea) cannelloni that comes from Santa Cruz. Chefs at Hernán Gipponi Restaurant (see p46) frequently cook with trout from El Bolsón and prawns from Puerto Madr yn. Think modernised dishes using local ingredients like truchón (giant trout) with smoked potatoes and asparagus, or pan-fried prawns with a red wine reduction and cherries. Peronist themed resto-bar Perón Perón (see p46) regularly features grilled pacú, a freshwater fish that comes from Misiones in the north-east, while restaurants like Astor (see p64) and Aramburu Bis (see p62) frequently prepare dishes containing in season ingredients from across the countr y, whether it be baby goat from Cuyo, wild boar from La Pampa, or Andean baby potatoes from Salta.

Regional delights Each region has a different take on the ubiquitous empanda, and you can sample many of them while in BA. - La Salteñita (Malabia 730, Villa Crespo) Empanadas salteñas, Salta - La Casita de Tucumán (Ecuador 1507, Abasto) Empanadas tucumanas, Tucumán - Pekín (Honduras 5301, Palermo) Empanadas patagónicas de cordero, Patagonia - El Nono Amigo (Guatemala 5800, Palermo) Empanadas mendocinas, Mendoza - La Fachada (Araóz 1283, Palermo) Empanadas santiagüeñas, Santiago del Estero - La Cocina (Pueyrredón 2501, Recoleta) Empanadas catamarqueñas, Catamarca - La Quebrada (Castillo 501, Villa Crespo) Empanadas jujeñas, Jujuy

Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014 27

Restaurants

The essentials

As any local will tell you, Argentina produces the finest cuts of bife in the world, so if eating every bit of cow known to man is on your dining agenda, you’ll be satisfied night after night. However, if red meat isn’t your fancy, the city has a growing range of alternative options.

Upscale Peruvian fusion food continues to take the city by storm, if hot spots Chira (see p55) and Olaya (see p55) are anything to go by. Not all Peruvian cuisine needs to drain your wallet of course, and for more affordable but equally delicious options, don’t miss Chan Chan (see p30), Rawa (see p32) or Coya (see p30). Japanese cuisine has also made a stance this year with Fukuro Noodle Bar (see p34) and Tenkuu Sushi (see p54) bringing ramen noodles and innovative sushi to town.

There’s always room for innovation in the native cuisine, however. New favourites like Aramburu Bis (see p62) show what Argentina has to offer beyond beef, as does longtime favourite El Baqueano (see p34). Wherever you go, a glass of local wine like a malbec or bonarda is always recommended.

Open 12.30-3.30pm, 8.30pm-midnight Mon-Thur; 12.30-3.30pm, 8.30pm-1am Fri; 8.30pm-1am Sat. Main courses $$$. Lunch AR$90 with wine. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D4. A ARGENTINIAN – MODERN

!Dadá Dadá is one of the hottest spots in the city and is quite reputable as one of the most frequently recommended places to chow down. Set in a small and cheerful space, the owner Paolo and his family weave their magic, managing to charm and serve clients with a menu that is as imaginative as the lighting and furnishings that adorn the restaurant. The menu often changes but the classics remain. If you are looking for a nibble, the delicious houmous and guacamole dips are fab finger foods, or if you’re feeling a little bit more peckish, the lomo Dadá or the salmon with polenta will never fail you.

Chilled lagers, good cocktails and a fine boutique wine list complete a very pretty picture.

San Martín 941, entre Marcelo T de Alvear y Paraguay, Microcentro (4314

HOW TO USE THE LISTINGS This section brings together our pick of the city’s restaurants.

Prices are represented by peso signs. $ indicates a range of roughly under AR$80 for main courses, although some restaurants have special dishes on their menus that can be much more expensive. $$ is AR$81-$110, $$$ is AR$111-$150 and $$$$ indicates AR$151 and above. Prices given here do not include extras such as wine, starters, dessert or coffees. ! is for restaurants we particularly recommend.

NEW signals a restaurant that has opened in the last six months or so.

A marks a restaurant whose bar is worth a visit on its own, whether or not you stay for dinner. ! marks our top spots for bargain dining – they’re not always the cheapest places, but they nevertheless represent good value for money.

V is for restaurants with good options for vegetarians, or which are entirely veggie.

The Centre

ARGENTINIAN – TRADITIONAL

Club del Progreso Dating from 1852, this hidden treasure in the heart of Congreso features a menu based on traditional dishes that have been reinvented for modern times and are served in an unassuming paradise. In fine weather, relaxing in the lovely garden is an excellent option.

Try the suckling pig cooked in the outdoor mud oven; or opt for the succulent salmon.

Sarmiento 1334, entre Talcahuano y Uruguay, Congreso (4372 3350/ www.restorandelprogreso.com.ar). Subte B, Uruguay/bus 5, 24, 100, 111, 115, 129, 140, 146, 150, 151, 168, 180.

La Popular (see p34).

28 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014

4787). Subte C, San Martín/bus 33, 62, 93, 152, 180, 195. Open noon-3am Mon-Sat. Main courses $$$. Lunch AR$100. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D6. A !Moreneta de Montserrat Porteña Luciana Conte and Italian Sebastián Raggiante brought their culinary passion to BA in 2010, after augmenting the Michelin status of several European restaurants. Befitting the business centred neighbourhood, the lunch hour at Moreneta is filled with suits, but the decor and ambience is perennially bright and inviting. As you’d expect from alumni of El Bulli’s Ferran Adrià, everything arrives impeccably presented. Specials change daily, but expect to see earthy, elegant pates like leek ravioli and home-made pizza topped with sun-dried tomatoes and rocket.

Moreno 477, entre Bolívar y Defensa, Monserrat (4331 1428/www.moreneta. com.ar). Subte A, Plaza de Mayo/bus 10, 93, 152. Open 8am-7pm Mon-Fri. Main courses $. Lunch AR$65.

Credit cards MC, V. Map B5.

Tomo I Those hankering after the good ol’ days, when eating out was more about quality than keeping up with trends, need to pay a visit to the ever-reliable Tomo I. This elegant restaurant within downtown’s Hotel Panamericano serves up what might just be the best tasting menu in the city; the dishes change constantly, but it could just as easily include ostrich ravioli as it could beef tenderloin. Mood lighting, a soft warm glow, spotlessly white tables and jazz tunes make this a romantic place for a tête-à-tête, while its proximity to the Teatro Colón means you’ll likely see opera singers in their glad rags swanning in for a post-performance feast. Red wines served in crystal decanters by suited staff add a glamorous touch to a night out; reservations and sharp dress are recommended, if not essential.

Hotel Panamericano, Carlos Pellegrini 521, y Tucumán, Microcentro (4326 6695/www.tomo1.com.ar). Subte B, Carlos Pellegrini/bus 10, 17, 29, 100, 109, 111, 115. Open noon-3pm Mon-Fri; 7.30pm-midnight Mon-Sat.

Restaurants Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014 29

Main courses $$$$. Lunch AR$200.

Set menu AR$370, wine included.

Credit AmEx, DC, MC, V. Map D5.

ECLECTIC

financial advisers chowing down on large pizzas topped with every combination of cheese, vegetables and meat imaginable. With a cool, urban interior accented by slashes of red and yellow, a lengthy menu that includes pastas, seafood, salads and more, oversized bread baskets on every table and a traditional brick oven, it’s an obvious contender for one of the best places to grab a bite downtown. Nab a chair early and pair your pizza with a salad made from delicious, flavoursome steamed vegetables.

San Martín 975, entre Marcelo T de Alvear y Paraguay, Retiro (4311 0312/ www.filo-ristorante.com). Subte C, San Martín/bus 10, 93, 130, 152. Open noon-2am daily. Main courses $$.

Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map C6. A

Restaurants

El Perlado Located at the back of the gothic Palacio Barolo (see p116) and next to beloved Peruvian restaurant Chan Chan (see right), El Perlado is packed out most nights, thanks to its cheery atmosphere and a good value, eclectic menu. The narrow space feels intimate rather than cramped and an art deco theme runs throughout, from the black and silver painted walls to the menu’s typography. For starters, go for the excellent battered prawns with coconut and panko; mains include a tenderloin steak wrapped in bacon and beetroot gnocchi with goat’s cheese in a cured PERUVIAN ham and tomato-based sauce. There !Chan Chan are huge burgers too (lamb and beef Tucked behind the magnificent versions) served with thick Palacio Barolo (see p116), cheddar cheese, houmous and sweet and simple Chan salad. The wine list is full Chan continues to wow of value options, with bottles from AR$53, but CUBIERTO, PROPINA? punters with its brilliant, spicy Peruvian food at start with a classic Some restaurants cocktail such as the razor charge cubierto, a cover affordable prices. Among sharp negroni. charge, but you should a long list of Andean classics, look out for the Hipólito Yrigoyen 1386, still leave a tip excellent chicharrón de y San José, Congreso (propina). pescado (battered fish) and (4382 8689). Subte A, the causa de salmón ahumado Lima/bus 38, 60, 67, 102, 129, – a colourful stack of salmon-and151, 168. Open noon-4pm, 8pm-midnight Tue-Sat. Main courses potato-based joy. A popular dessert is the torta de tres leches (a three milk $. Lunch AR$70. No credit cards. sweet treat). Chan Chan is a genuine Map C4. A bargain, with prices for mains coming ITALIAN in under AR$70 and you can help the food along with a pisco sour or a jug of El Cuartito El Cuartito is a taste of BA in its tango Time Out’s favourite elixir, chicha morada (a purple corn-based cordial). heyday and little has changed since Hipólito Yrigoyen 1390, y San José, 1934, when it started serving Congreso (4382 8492). Subte A, Sáenz thick-crust, topping-heavy pizzas Peña/bus 39, 60, 151, 168. Open (except perhaps the prices, nowadays noon-4pm, 8pm-12.30am Tue-Sun. AR$95 for a whole pizza). In the fierce debate over the city’s best pizzeria, this Main courses $. No credit cards.

Map C4. ! cavernous, no-frills joint is a serious contender for the top spot. One bite of Coya the fugazzeta (cheese and onion pizza) Though it’s found in the backstreets of and you might agree, or opt for the Microcentro, don’t let the daytime Tabasco-laden Atómica. Don’t let the chaos or night-time ghosts put you off queues put you off: if you’re too this local haunt. Abundant sharing famished to wait for a table beneath platters of ceviche made of fresh juicy the photos of local sporting heroes, march up to the cash register and order mariscos soaked in a red onion, a slice of whatever you fancy to devour coriander and lemon juice marinade make for a refreshing starter, but a at the counter. For a taste of El meal here wouldn’t be complete Cuartito’s competitors, it’s a mere five without a sweet and hard-hitting pisco blocks to the city’s pizza-parlour sour. The decor and ambience is simple heartland of Avenida Corrientes. Here and straightforward, but locals come you’ll find celebrity haunt Las Cuartetas (Avenida Corrientes 838) and again and again for the great food.

Tucumán 874, y Suipacha, Güerrín (Avenida Corrientes 1368).

Microcentro (4393 1709/ www.

Talcahuano 937, entre Paraguay y Marcelo T de Alvear, Tribunales (4816 comidaperuanacoya.com). Subte B, 1758). Subte D, Tribunales/bus 10, 29, Diagonal Norte/bus 29, 59, 67. Open noon-midnight Wed-Mon. Main 152, 180. Open 12.30pm-1am courses $. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Tue-Thur, Sun; 12.30pm-2am Fri, Sat. Map C5.

Main courses $$. No credit cards.

Map D5. ! V Mullu !Filo Every customer who walks through With Argentina’s constant inflation, it’s Mullu’s doors is greeted with an no easy task to keep prices in check. enthusiastic ‘Rimaykullayki’ – Filo has managed to do just that and as ‘welcome’ in Quechua. And once inside, many wish for a permanent lock-in. a result is a popular lunchtime The latest creation of Osaka founder restaurant – come 1pm, even the bar and chef José Antonio Castro Mendivil, stools are occupied by rows of

TOP TIP!

30 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014

Restaurants

Mullu is pleasing both on the eye and the belly. Foodies can keep an eye on the open kitchen as Chifa (ChinesePeruvian) and Nikkei (JapanesePeruvian) dishes are slivered together.

Fishy favourites are the tiradito rosita, delectable Spanish octopus in a black olive salsa and steamed white salmon sashimi with lamb stew.

Pasaje Ricardo Rojas 451, y Reconquista, Retiro (4311 2812/ www.mullurestaurant.com). Subte C, San Martín/bus 26, 93. Open noon-4pm, 8pm-midnight Mon-Wed; 8pm-1am Thur-Sat. Main courses $$$$. Lunch AR$180. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D6.

Rawa Having seen queues of disappointed people file away from BA classic Chan Chan (see p30), owner María and her family decided to open this second restaurant to catch the overfill. Hearty standards like chupe de mariscos, ají de gallina and lomo saltado are popular in the winter while in hotter weather degustaciones de ceviche and papas a la huancaina reign supreme. Lime-green tablecloths, plastic plants and a towering Machu Picchu on the wall mean Rawa is thankfully just as kitsch as Chan Chan.

Talcahuano 447, entre Lavalle y Avenida Corrientes, Tribunales (4519 8629) Subte D, Tribunales/bus 24, 26, 29, 67. Open noon-4.30pm; 8pmmidnight daily. Main courses $$. No credit cards. Map D5.

San Telmo

ARGENTINIAN – TRADITIONAL

Cocina Sunae.

Recommended Four spots for spicy food

Argentinians by and large don’t have a palate for spicy food, and the native cuisine doesn’t take well to many condiments beyond salt and chimichurri. Best to enjoy the cuisine for what it is, but if you really need a kick of hot and spicy to make your nose run and your forehead sweat, there are a few places that can be counted on. When you need a bottle of hot sauce the only place to go is Belgrano’s Barrio Chino; you won’t find anything but Tabasco at most grocery stores.

Cocina Sunae (see p58) This closed-door Asian fusion restaurant will happily bring a side of fiery red hot sauce to accompany your dish. The Thai tom kha soup is garnished with a mouth-burning slice of hot pepper, which you can leave floating if not feeling adventurous.

La Cresta Casa de Spiedo (Bulnes 829, 4864 4417) Request a sample of freshly made hot sauce to accompany a delicious wrap at this tiny Almagro spot; flavours vary, but they’re always spicy.

Phuket (Honduras 4169, 4861 4772, www.phuketwok.com.ar) The dishes at this tiny Thai restaurant pack a punch. The kitchen takes requests for extra picante curry seriously; so only ask if you really want to bring the heat.

La Fábrica del Taco (see p54) Perhaps as well known for its tacos as it is for its three ascending hot sauces, this taco joint serves one salsa for argentinos, one for mexicanos and one for daredevils.

32 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014

La Brigada If you’ve ever had dinner in San Telmo, you know what it’s like to be packed in tightly with eager patrons awaiting their steak and papas fritas.

The difference at La Brigada is that you’re more likely to bump elbows with gents discussing wine than with the usual jumble of backpackers and young lovers. Though refined, this parrilla is traditionally Argentinian to its core. One floor of the multi-tiered dining room is covered with framed football jerseys, while further upstairs is a massive wine case with zigzagging bottles. Bottles line the staircase leading downstairs to the cavernous wine cellar, a veritable vino lover’s mecca with bottles stacked to the ceiling and in every nook and cranny.

Estados Unidos 465, entre Bolívar y Defensa (4361 4685/www. parrillalabrigada.com.ar). Bus 29, 195.

Open noon-3pm, 8pm-midnight daily.

Main courses $$$. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map B4.

El Desnivel High on the list of fun things to do in BA without taking your clothes off is a late-night steak blowout at this legendary San Telmo parrilla. Staffing the joint are bloody-apron-wearing, knife-wielding cooks and cheeky waiters, and the mix of foreigners and locals makes for a boisterous and friendly scene. If you want to feel part

of the action, get a table in the main restaurant rather than in the annex out the back. By Sunday evening, after the tourist hordes have worked up an appetite, the wait can be long – better to go on a quieter weekday, or drop in for a juicy empanada, filled with chicken or beef to devour as you walk down the street.

Defensa 855, entre Avenida Independencia y Estados Unidos (4300 9081). Subte C, Independencia/bus 10, 24, 29, 93. Open 7pm-1am Mon; noon-1am Tue-Sun. Main courses $$.

Lunch AR$90. Credit (Mon-Fri only) AmEx, DC, MC, V. Map B4.! !Gran Parrilla del Plata With a great location on a picturesque corner, fine cuts of beef and rusticstyle decor, the Gran Parrilla del Plata has established itself as a barrio classic and gets packed out most nights. All the cuts of meat are exquisite; but it’s the ojo de bife (ribeye) and the tasty entraña (skirt steak) that are most recommended by the friendly, multilingual waiters. Equally worth sampling is the Argentinian comfort food, like milanesa and home-made pasta. Still hungry? An enormous slice of tiramisu or the button-pinging torta guilt – brownie, chocolate mousse, dulce de leche and meringue – should just about tip you over the edge. Classy but welcoming, this steakhouse is always reliable.

Chile 594, y Perú (4300 8858/ www.parrilladelplata.com.ar). Subte E, Belgrano/bus 29. Open noon-4pm, 8pm-1am Mon-Sat; noon-1am Sun. Main courses $$$$. Lunch AR$110.

Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map B4.

Manolo This friendly neighbourhood joint is buzzing most nights with a loyal clientele who come to feast on both excellent parrilla standards, and parrilla standards with a twist – a ham and mozzarella-stuffed steak, for example, or a selection of great steak sauces. Besides steak, the menu is also plentiful with Argentinian favourites such as milanesas and home-made pastas. Most dishes are more than enough for two, so moderate your gluttony if you dream of handling one of their many decadent desserts; you’ll be thankful you saved room for home-made flan with dulce de leche or a large slice of tiramisu.

Bolívar 1299, y Cochabamba (4307 8743/www.restaurantmanolo. com.ar). Bus 29, 39. Open from 6pm Mon-Fri; from noon Sat, Sun. Main courses $$$. Lunch AR$100. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map B4.!

ARGENTINIAN – MODERN

!Aldo’s Vinoteca y Restorán At this Russian doll of a restaurant within a wine store within a hotel (the Moreno, see p150), celebrity sommelier Aldo Graziani has made vino the star of the show. 500 quality labels adorn the modern art-deco restaurant, all of which are selected at blind tastings and sold at retail price, making this into a fabulous wine store that happens to have a stellar kitchen attached. An exquisite modern

Restaurants Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014 33

Restaurants

Caseros Passing Caseros on the street, it would be hard to resist going inside; huge windows open up to a blue and white dining room and kitchen that look to have been lifted straight out of a bistro in the French countryside. In lieu of flowers, bowls of lemons and oranges top each table for a pop of colour floating on a white tablecloth. The cuisine matches the rustic-chic decor; if menus came with sound effects, Casero’s carta would open to the thrum of a bustling market and the sound of grannies humming at their chopping boards. Everything is freshly made with locally sourced ingredients, from the warm bread with herb butter, to the shrimp raviolis and sweetbreads. On a brisk day, nothing is more comforting than Caseros’s rich chocolate cake and rice pudding.

Avenida Caseros 486, entre Bolívar y Defensa (4307 4729/www. caserosrestaurante.com.ar). Bus 29, 39, 168, 195. Open 12.30-3.30pm, 8.30pm-midnight Tue-Sat. Main courses $$$. Lunch AR$79. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map A3.

New in town Fukuro Noodle Bar

Palermites are slurping up the home-made ramen at BA’s first ever noodle bar. Fukuro owners Vanessa and Matias Camozzi travelled extensively to noodle shops across Japan, the United States, and South East Asia to perfect their house recipe and introduce porteños to soul warming ramen noodle soup. The bright coloured space is decked out with a cool stencil graffiti motif designed by local street artist Cabaio. Pop up on a bar stool and get down with a reduced menu where everything is made from scratch: pork buns, gyoza, hand-pulled ramen noodles, 24-hour simmered broth, spicy dipping sauces and even marshmallow cereal cookies.

Costa Rica 5514, y Humboldt (3290 0912/fukuronoodlebar.com). Bus 34, 39, 57, 93. Open 8pm-midnight Tue-Thur; 8pm-1am Fri, Sat. Main Courses $. No credit cards. Map H3.

Argentinian menu includes tenderloin steak in a rich red wine sauce, vegetable soufflés, octopus risotto, and sweet potato and chocolate bread pudding, just to name a few. Take advantage of the Tuesday wine tastings and Wednesday evening happy hour to find your favourite grape juice, and then come back every other night of the week to have a glass or two.

Moreno 372, entre Defensa y Balcarce (5291 2380/www.aldosvinoteca.com).

Subte A, Perú/bus 29, 64, 74, 129.

Open noon-midnight Sun-Thu; noon-1am Fri, Sat. Main courses $$$.

Lunch AR$145. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map B5.

El Baqueano Recently awarded the 39th spot in the last Latin American edition of ‘World’s 50 Best Restaurants’ competition (a highly coveted prize), this San Telmo eaterie is no longer the hidden secret it once was. The theme here is ‘carnes autóctonas’, meaning native meat. El

Baqueano’s is perhaps one of the few menus in town that doesn’t include beef; chef and owner Fernando Rivarola instead favours Argentina’s more exotic fauna. And yes, that means llama is on the menu, but in this case served in delicate slivers of carpaccio.

Less famous meats include yacaré (caiman) enveloped in a gyoza dumpling with preserves from the yacaratiá tree, and smoked rhea with braised yucca. Original and surprisingly delicious, the tasting menu allows diners to savour delicacies like a millefeuille of duck and cream-cheese tart with strawberries, with wines accompanying each dish. Look out for monthly specials, when a top South American chef takes over the kitchen.

Chile 499, y Bolívar (4342 0802/www. restoelbaqueano.com). Subte C, Independencia/bus 29, 86, 93, 103, 111, 126, 130, 143, 152, 159, 195.

Open 7pm-midnight Tue-Sat. Set menu AR$300. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map B4.

34 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014

Café Rivas Set on possibly the prettiest corner in San Telmo, Café Rivas has the air of a tearoom. Inside, it’s all retro wood and cake stands, and the occasional dramatic flash of fire as the chef does his thing in the open kitchen. The no-nonsense menu is a mix of classic Argentinian and comfort food – think milanesa, neat beef medallions and aubergine raviolis, served with a smile.

But the place really comes into its own as a haven from the teeming streets of San Telmo on a Sunday afternoon; dart in here for a break from the street market madness for a coffee and decadent brownie or cupcake. Come Thursday night, relax to the magical tinkling of a piano being played on the mezzanine floor.

Estados Unidos 302, y Balcarce (4361 5539). Bus 22, 24, 29, 130, 143 152, 159, 195. Open 9am-midnight Tue-Sat; 11am-8pm Sun. Main courses $$. Lunch AR$70. Credit AmEx, V. Map B4.

La Panadería de Pablo Elegant, white linen filled restaurants often conjure up images of stodgy diners and fussy plates, but La Panadería de Pablo has found a way to mix elegance with a vibrant, lively atmosphere. The new open-air terrace with a cocktail bar certainly doesn’t hurt the vibe, nor does the addition of a different DJ every Thursday night.

Good music and drinks aside, the food is forever the star here. As is to be expected of a Pablo Massey venture, the menu is sophisticated and concise; smoked salmon bruschetta and margherita pizza are fresh and light, while the ribeye marinated in rosemary and thyme will satisfy the foreigner hankering after quality Argentinian steak. To unwind after a long week, there’s a varied Sunday brunch menu with the likes of a sophisticated goat’s cheese frittata and down-to-earth hash browns.

Defensa 269, y Moreno (4331 6728/ www.lapanaderiadepablo.com). Subte A, Plaza de Mayo/bus 29, 111. Open 9.30am-6pm Mon-Wed; 9.30pmmidnight Thur, Fri; 11am-7pm Sat; 10am-7pm Sun. Main courses $$$$.

Lunch AR$144. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map B5.

La Popular This colourful place is exactly what it says on the tin: popular. The decor stands out here where you can find a bike and vintage Cinzano adverts across the walls. The ambience is family friendly and the menu boasts healthy and delicious portions. It doesn’t scream originality but the ojo de bife and mushroom risotto are simply scrumptious. The prices are reasonable and the happy, down-toearth clientele has made this a staple point of the San Telmo dining scene.

Avenida Caseros 500, y Bolívar (4307 6040). Bus 39, 152. Open 9am-4pm Mon; 9am-4pm, 8pm-12.30am Tue-Thur; 8pm-1.30am Fri, Sat;

Restaurants Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014 35

noon-5pm Sun. Main courses $$$.

Lunch AR$75. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map A3.

Restaurants

El Refuerzo Pocket-sized El Refuerzo is basically a local’s ‘anti-fashion’ joint, but you get the impression the quirky, laid-back San Telmo regulars are happy to share this hidden gem with you. It’s the perfect spot for an aperitif accompanied by quality cured hams, olives, local cheeses and hearty salads.

The three satisfyingly simple main dishes change daily, but expect beef and pasta to play a starring role. The wine list, scrawled on the blackboard, is excellent and well priced. With its black and white tiled floors, antique counter and cluttered wooden tables, this locale feels like a late-night hangout in post-war Rome – you half expect Marcello Mastroianni to scoot up on a Vespa and start flirting with the punters.

Chacabuco 872, entre Avenida Independencia y Estados Unidos (4361 3013). Subte C, Independencia/ bus 2, 10, 17, 29, 59, 86, 126. Open 10am-1am Tue-Sun. Main courses $$$. Lunch AR$80. No credit cards.

Map B4. !A

cordero (lamb stew) and solomillo de cerdo. A large roof terrace in the middle of the block offers customers an authentic perspective of a typical BA cityscape, making it an ideal dining spot for a warm night.

Carlos Calvo 242, y Balcarce (4361 1269). Bus 29, 64, 111, 152. Open 6pm-midnight Tue-Fri; noon-4pm, 6pm-midnight Sat; noon-11pm Sun. Main courses $$$. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map B4.

Brasserie Petanque Brasserie Petanque is as French as it gets this side of the Atlantic; bottles of wine and Ricard pastis are stacked to the ceiling and the menu bristles with the sort of Gallic standards it’s hard to tire of. All the bistro classics make an appearance, from boeuf bourguignon to escargots, served by a corps of efficient and friendly waiters. For desserts, the crème brûlée sampler of vanilla, orange and pistachio is a refreshing take on the French standard.

If it’s Sunday, pitch up early or you won’t even get a glimpse of the confit de canard, not least since Petanque is smack in the heart of San Telmo’s rolling Sunday market. Those travelling through Chile will have to stop at Petanque’s Santiago branch.

CHINESE Defensa 596, y México (4342 7930/ Chifa Man San www.brasseriepetanque.com). Bus 29, A cracked, treacherous stretch of 86, 129, 152. Open 12.30-4pm, pavement leads the way to this 8pm-midnight Tue-Sun. Main outstanding example of a courses $$$. Lunch unique South American AR$105. Credit AmEx, genre, with which even MC, V. Map B4.

LUNCHTIME RUSH Argentinians are mostly Look for restaurants SPANISH unfamiliar. A chifa in the offering a menú ejecu- Café San Juan style of Peru’s Chinese– tivo – a multi-course Café San Juan is no Peruvian restaurants, lunchtime special at longer the bargain it was Man San distinguishes a fair price. when it first opened, but itself with its excellent,

TOP TIP!

blindingly good value food.

Huge piles of rice chow fan and noodle chow mein, with pork, chicken, vegetables or toasted almonds come in for around AR$70; but go for the ceviche or the jalea (battered calamares and fish), and then we’re really talking.

There are no pisco sours and no pretensions here: just exemplary service from waitress extraordinaire Rosa, and tasty food.

Perú 832, entre Estados Unidos y Avenida Independencia (4307 0638/ www.chifamansan.com.ar). Subte E or C, Independencia/bus 10, 22, 24, 29, 86, 126. Open 7-11.15pm Mon; noon-4pm, 7-11.15pm Tue-Sun. Main courses $. Lunch AR$50. No credit cards. Map B4. !V FRENCH

L’Atelier de Celine Proprietor and host Celine serves up creative French-based cuisine in her charming San Telmo house. Every client is welcomed by the owner with her French accent, a big smile and a complimentary kir. Starters include Gallic classics like rabbit terrine, an onion soup and an exceptional crème de brule made of brie cheese. Main courses run the gamut from French renditions of typical Argentinian dishes like entraña with shallots to heart-warming dishes like a guiso de 36 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014

reservations are still more or less essential here unless you’re planning to slip in for a quick bite at noon. During the daily lunch rush, chef Leandro Cristóbal fashions inventive tapas and pastas from the likes of sun-dried tomatoes, brie and seasonal vegetables, while his mother pours the wine. The daily menu is scrawled on chalkboards that are hauled around from table to table, resplendent with homely dishes like a courgette-rich fettuccine, and meaty fare like ojo de bife and salmon.

San Juan 450, y Bolívar (4300 1112).

Subte C, San Juan/bus 29, 86. Open 12.30-4pm, 8pm-midnight Tue-Sun. Main courses $$$. Tapas AR$60-$80.

No credit cards. Map B4.

Other location Chile 474, San Telmo (4300 9344).

VEGETARIAN

Hierbabuena While not strictly vegetarian (you’ll find the odd fish or chicken dish), cute, French-style Hierbabuena serves up sophisticated healthy grub. At this cosy San Telmo joint, colour abounds on every plate with vegetables so bright and fresh, even the pickiest kid couldn’t resist. And for anyone who thinks vegetarian food can’t be filling, think again: hearty options like the tri-mushroom veggie burger, or

Restaurants

home-made pizzas topped with caramelised onions, roasted aubergine, rocket and cherry tomatoes will satisfy every glutton (although Hierbabuena has plenty of freshly baked goods to round off a meal should you be left wanting more). It goes without saying that any meal, vegetarian or otherwise, calls for a jug or two of one of its famous fruit-infused lemonades.

Avenida Caseros 454, y Defensa (4362 2542/www.hierbabuena.com.ar). Bus 10, 29, 39, 70, 195. Open 9am-5pm Mon; 9am-midnight Tue-Sun. Main courses $$. Lunch AR$70. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map A3. V

La Boca

ARGENTINIAN – TRADITIONAL

!El Obrero El Obrero (literally ‘the worker’, which tells you a fair bit about the ambience of this place) is one of the city’s most famous restaurants, and celebrities from Bono to Wim Wenders have eaten at this living, thriving museum piece in the heart of the old port neighbourhood.

(The area is gritty, verging on lawless, so go with company and take a taxi there and back.) The decor is busy with photos of boxing and football stars, the paint is peeling and the toilet is a glorified outhouse; but this is a classic spot for a three-hour lunch or dinner.

Most people go for the parrilla items on the chalkboard, but there are also fair pasta and fish dishes; and a selection of old-style desserts like the sweet flan should finish you off nicely.

Agustín Caffarena 64, entre Ministro Brin y Caboto (4362 9912). Bus 25, 29, 68, 130, 152, 159, 168, 195.

Open noon-4.30pm, 8.15pm-1.30am Mon-Sat. Main courses $$. No credit cards.

ITALIAN

Il Matterello The food takes centre stage in this crisp, clean, cantina-style La Boca eaterie. A mixed plate of warm and cold antipasti serves to enliven the taste buds impressively in preparation for an excellent, al dente tagliatelle with a puttanesca sauce and a truly sumptuous fazzoletti alla carbonara.

Straight-to-the-point service and unpretentious decor help to accompany, but not out-twinkle, the star here, which shines brightly from the kitchen.

Tourists can also get a bite of fresh pasta and tiramisu without the long trek to La Boca at Il Mattarello’s Palermo Soho branch.

Martín Rodríguez 517, y Villafañe (4307 0529). Bus 29, 64, 86, 129, 130, 152, 159, 168. Open 12.30-3pm, 8.30pm-midnight Tue-Sat; 12.30-3pm Sun. Main courses $$. Credit AmEx, DC, MC, V. Map B2.

Other location Gorriti 5102, Palermo (4831 8493/4832 1241).

Constitución ARGENTINIAN – TRADITIONAL

Miramar Beloved by its barrio and by the mix of actors and local celebrities that frequent it, Miramar is an unpretentious restaurant boasting a well-stocked wine cellar and amiable and experienced waiters. It’s in one of the lesser known and less reputable parts of the city, but for something different and authentic, it’s worth the trip. The cooking is predominantly Spanish, and it’s extremely good.

Sample rabbit in white wine, tortillas, oysters or prawns in garlic, while listening to crackly tangos. The joint’s

Meat decoder Be sure to order your meat the way you like it; jugoso if you like it bloody, a punto for medium and cocido for a well-done steak.

Bife de chorizo – sirloin steak Bife de lomo - tenderloin Ojo de bife - ribeye Entraña – skirt steak

38 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014

Vacío – flank steak Chorizo – sausage Mollejas – sweetbreads Morcilla – blood sausage

Restaurants

famed rabo de toro (oxtail stew) has a limb-warming quality that’s verging on narcotic. You can also tuck into fresh centolla (king crab) on the weekends, or keep it light and devour a cheeseboard over a bottle of wine.

Avenida San Juan 1999, y Sarandí (4304 4261). Subte E, Entre Ríos/bus 4, 188, 195. Open noon-4pm, 8pm-midnight Tue-Sun. Main courses $$. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map C2.

ARGENTINIAN – MODERN

Aramburu Despite the rather dubious surroundings, it’s well worth ducking into this hothouse of culinary innovation to embark on a tastingmenu journey through Paris-infused Argentina. Diners are well taken care of here, as clued-up and friendly staff can decode the complex menu descriptions, and the open kitchen allows chefs to come out and greet guests. Creativity abounds in every dish; salmon is vacuum packed and infused with sandalwood, and the suckling pig comes with chocolate and pear puree. It’s that kind of innovation that draws foodies out to the rather neglected neighbourhood, and helped Aramburu receive a spot on Latin America’s 50 Best Restaurants (www. theworlds50best.com) list.

Salta 1050, y Humberto 1˚ (4305 0439/www.arambururesto.com). Subte C, San Juan or E, San José/bus 60, 168. Open 8.30pm-midnight Tue-Sat. Set menu AR$450. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map B3.

parrilla. Overlooking the beautiful Puente de la Mujer bridge in Puerto Madero, Le Grill offers a contemporary steak spin as the lone ranger to serve dry aged beef. Grass fed Hereford and Aberdeen Angus cattle are locally sourced from the Tandil countryside, and every cut is aged in a climate controlled meat layer located underneath the restaurant for at least 28 days. Navigating the large menu may be a challenge, but start with an elaborate picada, a charcuterie plate filled with wonderful cheese and cured meats, before tucking into goat sweetbreads, low cooked egg with confit mushrooms, and the specialty of the house, a dry aged T-Bone steak.

Wine lovers rejoice: the impressive cellar boasts a selection of over 3000 bottles, and an exclusive private room for wine tastings.

Avenida Alicia Moreau de Justo 876 (4331 0454/legrill.com.ar/eng). Subte A, Plaza de Mayo/bus 64, 74. Open 12.30-3pm, 7pm-midnight Mon-Fri; 7pm-1am Sat; 12.30-3pm, 7pmmidnight Sun. Main courses $$$.

Credit AmEx, DC, MC, V. Map B5.

i Central Market This Puerto Madero multispace is perhaps the only place in town where you can indulge in a five-star meal at a luxury restaurant and get your grocery shopping done all in one space. i Central gracefully combines a gelato shop, deli, bakery, café and restaurant in one fell swoop, as much a feast for the eyes as it is for the stomach.

Quality is the name of the game at i Central (the ‘i’ pronounced ‘eee’, meaning ‘to eat’ in Mapuche), and whatever you go for, it’s guaranteed to be fresh and additive-free. Sit by the ARGENTINIAN – TRADITIONAL restaurant’s long glass Pan y Arte windows, watching the In the last few years, world of Puerto Madero Boedo has become a rollerskate by while VEGGIE-FRIENDLY tucking into a ribeye hotspot for the food and Many parrillas offer a steak. The original joint, art cognoscenti. Pan y vegetarian option of i Fresh Market, is just up Arte stands out as roasted vegetables or the way at Azucena perhaps the only home made pasta Villaflor and Olga producer of Mendozan dishes.

Cosettini. cooking in town, with pizza Pierina Dealessi, y Macacha al campo mendocino – a Güemes, Dique 4, Puerto Madero smoky-crusted version with Este (5775 0330/www.icentralmarket. tomatoes, herbs and a fresh, tangy com.ar). Bus 4,7. Open 8am-midnight farmer’s cheese – among the pick of daily. Main courses $$ in the the pizzas. The service is friendly, and there’s also a regional foods shop and a restaurant; $ in the deli and tearoom.

Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map B6. changing roster of local artwork, theatre and frequent live music. There’s El Mercado also a terrace for special events and Loved, lauded and occasionally outdoor seating. criticised, El Mercado tends to split Avenida Boedo 880, entre Estados opinions. But no one can deny that Unidos y Carlos Calvo (4932 4299/ www.panyarte.com.ar). Subte E, Boedo/ Philippe Starck was at his most inspired when he put El Mercado bus 56, 75, 86, 115. Open 8ammidnight Mon-Thur; 8am-1am Fri, Sat. together: glittered portraits of local Main courses $$. Credit AmEx, MC, pop idol Sandro, Maradona and Che Guevara sit effortlessly against a V. Map D1. collection of porcelain toy soldiers and judiciously selected lighting shines perfectly over the wooden tables and chairs. The centre piece is an open-air ARGENTINIAN – MODERN parrilla, which grills up choice cuts like a 17 oz. flank steak. Paired with grilled Le Grill mushrooms, baby potatoes and While Buenos Aires flourishes with traditional local steakhouses, not many poached egg, it makes for a perfect meal for two. You haven’t tried the full spots have mastered the modern

Boedo

TOP TIP!

Puerto Madero Le Grill.

40 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014

Restaurants Minga (see p45).

spectrum of empanadas until you’ve tried El Mercado’s lamb empanada.

Two empanadas here may cost the same as a dozen elsewhere, but hey, you’re only in Argentina, and for that matter, Faena, once.

Faena Hotel Buenos Aires, Martha Salotti 445, Dique 2 (4010 9200/www. faenahotelanduniverse.com). Subte B, LN Alem/bus 2, 130. Open 7am-1am Mon-Sat. Main courses $$$$. Lunch AR$290. Credit AmEx, DC, MC, V. Map B5.

JAPANESE

Osaka Not content with wowing solely Palermo diners, this uber-stylish Peruvian-Japanese restaurant opened another branch next to Puerto Madero’s trendy Faena Arts Centre (see p124).

The samurai suit of armour is a quirky touch to the decor, but otherwise it’s pure, sleek minimalism.

Sit by the bar, at one of the lacquered wood tables, or on the terrace outside and order the tiraditos, creative sushi rolls, or the excellent degustación de ceviches. The cocktails are arguably the best BA has to offer. Try the Cucumber del Pacífico (gin, saké, cucumber, pineapple and lychee), the most refreshing concoction Time Out’s ever gulped down in one.

Juana Manso 1164, y Azucena Villaflor (5352 0404/www.osaka.com.pe). Bus 2, 4, 20, 62, 64, 103. Open 12.30-4pm, 8pm-1am daily. Main courses $$$$.

ARGENTINIAN – MODERN

Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map B5.

Other location Soler 5608 (4775 6964), Palermo.

Elena Being Felix de Alzaga’s beloved wife Elena can’t have been bad. The opulent Louis XIII-style La Mansion (now part of the Four Seasons Hotel, see p152) was built for her in 1920, and 92 years later, the hotel restaurant has been named in her honour.

ARGENTINIAN – TRADITIONAL Despite belonging to one of Cumaná Buenos Aires’s fanciest Cumaná is the kind of hotels, the tone is restaurant that makes refreshingly PASSION FOR PISCO? you feel hungry as soon unpretentious: diners Sipan (see p55) offers are encouraged to walk as you walk in the door. some of the tastiest Surrender to the through the open drinks around with the kitchen to enter the tantalising aromas, settle passionfruit pisco sours restaurant, and the in at one of the rustic at the top of the tables, and order some of marble butcher’s table list. the hearty, regional cuisine. and glass dry-ageing case Here’s your chance to try locro (a are on display just steps away thick Argentinian stew), home-made from the tables. Top chef Juan empanadas, Argentinian-style tamales Gaffuri dishes up the likes of glazed and lovely local wine. With reasonably pork belly, Argentinian beef and priced food served piping hot from the home-made pasta with ossobuco, horno de barro – a domed adobe oven while sommelier Sebastian Maggi used in the north of Argentina – this matches wine to dish. The charcuterie country kitchen is hard to beat. platters, piled high with tangy cheeses Popularity like this comes at a cost: be and finely sliced meats, are the prepared to queue for around an hour especialidad de la casa, as is the at weekends, when the place fills up home-made Sicilian ice-cream branded with a young, fun crowd.

Dolce Morte (sweet death).

Rodríguez Peña 1149, entre Avenida Posadas 1086/88, y Avenida 9 de Julio, Santa Fe y Arenales, Recoleta (4813 Recoleta (4321 1748). Bus 70, 93, 9207). Subte D, Callao/bus 39, 60, 100, 101, 106, 124. Open 6.30-11am, 108, 109, 110, 111, 124, 152. Open 12.30-3.30pm, 7.30pm-1am daily. Main noon-midnight daily. Main courses $. courses $$$$. Lunch AR$225. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D5.

No credit cards. Map E5. !

Recoleta and Barrio Norte

42 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014

TOP TIP!

!Gran Bar Danzón The contemporary, cosmopolitan menu at this resto-bar includes only the most luxurious, and sometimes exotic, ingredients: grilled lobster over banana blintzes, salmon ceviche with chicha morada (purple corn) sorbet, veal sweetbreads – and those are just the starters. Main courses like herb-crusted rack of lamb and home-made shrimp linguini in a saffron broth continue the theme, and there are sushi and sashimi options for a lighter meal. There’s a lounge-like ambience to this space, replete with low sofas and glowing candles. An extensive wine list includes good options by the glass – just as well, since the prices weigh in at the upper end of the scale. Cocktails, both classic and original, will quench your thirst.

Try the Sushi Mary – a Japanese take on the bloody mary with saké and wasabi – served with a pretty little sushi roll.

Libertad 1161, entre Avenida Santa Fe y Arenales, Recoleta (4811 1108/ www.granbardanzon.com.ar). Subte D, Tribunales/bus 39, 70, 75, 100, 102.

Open from 6pm Mon-Fri; from 8pm Sat, Sun. Main courses $$$. Credit AmEx, DC, MC, V. Map D5. A Tarquino Named after the daddy of Argentinian meat (Tarquino was the first bull brought from the Scottish highlands to the Argentinian pampas), this gourmet restaurant is an elegant homage to its

Restaurants

mother country. From the llama textile walls to the smooth leather tabletops, everything was hand-picked from artisans across the country, but the pièce de résistance is the 70-year-old ficus tree, sprouting through the restaurant’s glass ceiling. Showing off the skills he picked up at Spain’s internationally acclaimed El Bulli restaurant, head chef Dante Liporaci lets his imagination run wild with delightfully quirky dishes such as provolone and onion ‘pizza’ – a creamy foam accompanied by a teaspoon of olive jelly. Can’t get enough? Enquire about a room at the boutique hotel upstairs, Hub Porteño (see p152) and you can come here every night.

Rodríguez Peña 1967, y Posadas, Recoleta (6091 2160/www. tarquinorestaurante.com.ar). Bus 39, 60, 61, 93, 100, 124, 129, 130, 152.

Open 12.30-2.30pm, 8-11.30pm Mon-Sat. Main courses $$$$. Lunch AR$190. Credit AmEx, DC, MC, V. Map E5. A FRENCH

Sirop Folie There are surprisingly few sophisticated restaurants in posh Recoleta, but Sirop Folie is one of them, set in a Parisian-style alleyway – a fantastic place for al fresco dining. A compact set of dishes includes braised beef ribs in malbec, and for dessert,

chocolatísima – a sinful cake laden with three types of Belgian chocolate and dulce de leche. Beautifully decorated, with charming interior touches and plenty of light, the place is an ideal spot for lunch or afternoon tea; and equally popular are the weekend brunches (AR$360 for two) which include salmon, excellent cheeses, scrambled eggs, home-made chips and, of course, champagne.

Unit 12, Vicente López 1661, y Montevideo, Recoleta (4813 5900/www. siroprestaurant.com). Bus 37, 67, 75, 110, 111, 124, 150, 152. Open 8pm-midnight Tue-Sat; 11am-5pm Sat, Sun. Main courses $$$. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map E5.

INDIAN

Tandoor One of very few Indian restaurants in BA, Tandoor has happily satisfied many a craving for food from the subcontinent. The restaurant’s modern, authentic dishes are enhanced by an airy environment, which makes eating here a pleasure. Spices are imported from India, as are the chefs and the tandoor oven. As well as classics like chicken tikka masala, the menu includes several tasty lamb dishes.

Laprida 1293, y Charcas, Barrio Norte (4821 3676/www.tandoor.com.ar).

Subte D, Agüero/bus 12, 39. Open noon-4pm, 8pm-midnight Mon-Fri; 8pm-1am Sat, Sun. Main courses $$.

Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map E4. V ITALIAN

Piola With locations scattered across the Americas, this Treviso-born pizzeria chain has gourmet pie-tossing down to a science: roll the thinnest crust possible, top with fresh greens and sharp cheeses, and serve in a slick space. Salads and authentic pasta are on the menu too, but your best bet is a signature pizza – the smoked salmon and ricotta-topped Rimini, or the leafy Praga, a white pizza piled with rocket, chicken and parmesan shavings.

Libertad 1078, y Avenida Santa Fe, Recoleta (4812 0690/www.piola.it). Bus 39, 111, 140. Open noon-2am Mon-Fri; 7pm-3am Sat; 6pm-2am Sun. Main courses $$$. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D5.

Other location Gorriti 5751, Palermo (4777 3698).

SPANISH

Dean & Dennys.

Recommended Gourmet fast food

When your stomach calls for a greasy burger and fries but McDonald’s just won’t do, fear not. Buenos Aires has plenty of spots serving up fast food classics, but with the kind of quality that won’t make you regret your purchase later that day.

Dean & Dennys: This Palermo corner spot hits all today’s buzz words. It’s eco-friendly with recycled materials used in the decor, social media savvy thanks to its heavy use of Facebook, Twitter and Instagram, veg-friendly with a mushroom-based mush burger and even pet-friendly to boot, with ‘dog parking’ on-site.

Malabia 1591 (4834 6101/www.facebook.com/deananddennys) Burger Joint: Bringing food porn to the burger scene, BJ’s perfectly cooked burgers, like the spicy Mexican or Jamaican, hand cut french fries and home-made curried ketchup are favourites of expats and locals. Owner Pierre Chacra pleases Palermo crowds with a cool and kitsch spot where diners take their burger-and-fries-induced creativity to the walls, writing and drawing messages alongside movie posters and pop culture references.

Jorge Luis Borges 1766 (4833 5151/www.burgerjoint.com.ar) Perez-H: San Telmo’s cheap pride and joy in the form of a tiny burger bar, Perez-H brings an affordable fast-food fix that is mighty hard to beat. What’s so great about these hamburguesas? 160 grams of high quality beef cooked medium rare, fresh baked sesame buns, home-made pickles and perfectly fried sweet potato fries.

Defensa 435 (4331 1443/www.perez-h.com) DOGG: Anyone who has ever ordered a late night pancho (as hot dogs are known in BA) at a kiosko and immediately regretted it will rejoice at the gourmet hot dogs available at DOGG. The buns are home-made, the dogs are grilled and toppings reach beyond the ordinary with guacamole, hot sauce and bacon on the menu.

San Martín 657 (4313 9735/www.facebook.com/HolaDogg) 44 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014

Oviedo Oviedo has a bit of a clubbish atmosphere and is a favourite with businessmen and political hacks. But never mind the clientele. Here, classic Iberian dishes are prepared with great care and attention to detail. Tortilla a la española, grilled chipirones, baked clams, and oven-baked white fish are savoury reminders of the old country, each one faithful to tradition but still special in its own right. For a locally sourced fish, try bacalao (cod), caught in Mar del Plata. The staff is of the oldfashioned variety: attentive, professional gentlemen in bow ties, while the wine list is one of BA’s best.

Beruti 2602, y Ecuador, Barrio Norte (4822 5415/www.oviedoresto.com.ar).

Subte D, Pueyrredón/bus 12, 64, 152.

Open noon-midnight Mon-Sat. Main courses $$$$. Credit AmEx, DC, MC, V. Map E4.

Palermo AMERICAN

Muu Lechería This diner-style café brings Americana to Palermo with its hot dogs, cupcakes and cheery interior. The Chubby Checker burger comes with gruyère, onion rings and barbecue sauce, but there are also substantial salads for those hankering after something lighter. The milkshakes are unmissable

ARGENTINIAN – TRADITIONAL

!Las Cabras Meat-lovers have been queuing up to get tables at this parrilla since it opened. It’s been a great success in the overcrowded Palermo eating scene for the simple reason that it serves good quality food, and lots of it. The prices may seem high, but considering the immense portion sizes, this parrilla offers the most bang for your buck.

The mixed grill has enough meat for three and includes two types of chorizo and all the offal you can imagine.

Vegetarians are provided for, and even the wine list ticks the value-for-money box. Colouring crayons are provided so that you or your children can doodle away on the paper tablecloths. With all this to offer, this place draws queues: if you’re going at the weekend, get there before 9.30pm or forget it.

Fitz Roy 1795, y El Salvador (5197 5301). Subte D, Palermo/bus 39, 93, 108, 111, 140, 151, 168. Open noon-1am daily. Main courses $$. No credit cards. Map H2. !

La Cabrera Named one of Latin America’s 50 Best Restaurants of 2013 (www. theworlds50best.com) and listed in just about every guidebook and blog, it’s safe to say La Cabrera is a reliable place to experience a traditional Argentinian parrilla. On an attractive corner site that used to be a general store, professional staff serve extra-large portions of expertly prepared meat. Standouts include flank steak, steak-sized sweetbreads and stuffed pork shoulder. Though traditional to its core, La Cabrera infuses some twists to its side dishes, such as the quail egg potato salad.

Don’t order too much: half portions will be fine for even the hungriest, especially as every cut of beef comes with a smattering of sides, like mashed potatoes and pumpkin. The sister restaurant, La Cabrera Norte, half a block away, has helped cut waiting times, but now more than ever, a reservation is advised.

Cabrera 5127/5099, y Thames (4832 5754/www.parrillalacabrera.com.ar).

Bus 39, 55. Open 12.30-3pm, 8.30pm-1am Mon-Fri; 12.30-3pm, 8.30pm-2am Sat, Sun. Main courses $$$$. Lunch AR$109. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2. !Don Julio Don Julio doesn’t mess with parrilla classics; the buzzing Palermo grill just does them to perfection. A basket of fresh bread and chimichurri will warm up your appetite before you pick out your favourite cut of meat from their excellent selection (the lomo and

entraña are exquisite). And thanks to owner Pablo, who sends his waiters to wine school, your server will know just how to help you choose the malbec or cabernet that best complements your beef. For vegetarians, a glass of wine will equally complement a hearty plate of pumpkin-stuffed ravioli. The decor is rustic-chic, and the leather tablecloths and exposed brick walls stacked up with signed wine bottles add to the warm atmosphere.

Guatemala 4691, y Gurruchaga (4831 9564). Bus 35, 55, 93, 111, 161. Open noon-4pm, 7.30pm-1am daily. Main courses $$$$. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3.

Restaurants

and breakfast choices include pancakes and French toast. While the prices aren’t quite out of the 1950s, Muu is an original and family-friendly option.

Armenia 1810, entre Nicaragua y Costa Rica (4831 3168/www. mundomuu.com.ar). Bus 15, 39. Open 8.30am-2am daily. Main courses $.

Credit AmEx, MC. Map G3.

La Dorita In this parrilla kitted out with junk chandeliers and pop-art mixed media, families rub elbows with local celebs.

But the A-list star here is the meat. A tabla de carnes (three beef cuts of your choice) arrives sizzling in its own juices. Grilled provoleta cheese – crisp on the outside, oozing within – and fried potatoes with onion make the perfect side dishes. The wine list is short but knowing, with many of the quality mid-range malbecs available in half-litre jugs.

Humboldt 1892, y Costa Rica (4776 5653/www.parrillaladorita.com.ar).

Bus 39, 93, 108. Open 12.30pm-1am Sun-Thur; 12.30pm-2am Fri, Sat. Main courses $$$. Lunch AR$79. Credit MC. Map H3.

Lo de Jesus This upmarket parrilla began life in 1953, as a grocery store-cum-bar run by a Spaniard called Don Jesús Pernas.

Since then, the barrio’s mechanics and construction workers have been replaced by shopkeepers and tourists, and Perna’s meat sandwiches by juicy cuts of beef. And while the decor has been subtly and stylishly modernised, the black and white chequered floor and wood panelling have been retained.

The menu is fittingly old-school but impeccable; ojo de bife al malbec, caprese salad, and grilled pacú (a fish from the Paraná river) are all fine choices. While the interior is certainly warm and inviting, on balmier nights the outdoor seating that snakes around the corner is definitely worth taking advantage of.

Gurruchaga 1406, y Cabrera (4831 1961/www.lodejesus.com.ar). Bus 39, 55, 110, 168. Open noon-4pm, 7.30pm-1am daily. Main courses $$$.

Lunch AR$79. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2.

Minga As a steakhouse with trendy boutiques and cafés for neighbours, it’s only fitting that Minga would be elegantly outfitted with beige, glass and distressed wood furnishings. Large slabs of steak are still the star, but are presented on an elegant cutting board with tiny saucers of chimichurri and garlic. Accompaniments like grilled goat’s cheese with rocket and a creamy potato gratin are presented just as beautifully in individual cast iron Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014 45

Restaurants

skillets. Minga pushes the boundaries of the traditional parrilla, but purists need not despair: the menu still offers Argentinian staples, prepared in the traditional way.

Costa Rica 4528, entre Armenia y Malabia (4833 5775/www. mingaparrilla.com.ar). Bus 39, 168.

Open from 10am daily. Main courses $$$. Lunch AR$100. Credit AmEx, DC, MC, V. Map H3.

dress and behave well, that is). If you’re in the mood for a date night, the dining room’s soft lighting and mellow tunes keep things thoroughly romantic, making it an ideal spot to bring someone special (as an added bonus, Crizia’s oyster bar is also a standout).

The cuisine here – all impeccably presented – is MediterraneanArgentinian fusion, with a splash of oriental. The menu features plenty of tempting seafood, but for a meal to warm you up on a cold night, try the braised Patagonian lamb followed by warm chocolate soufflé with white chocolate sauce.

Gorriti 5143, entre Uriarte y Thames (4831 4979/www.crizia.com.ar). Bus 34, 39, 55, 151, 168. Open 7.30pm1am Mon-Sat. Main courses $$$.

Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2. A

Miranda This fashionable contemporary parrilla is a steakhouse for the trend-conscious carnivore: instead of chips or mashed potatoes, the solomillo de cerdo (pork loin) and Patagonian lamb come with caramelised vegetables and fruits. The Jacinta salad, tossed with grilled chicken and squash, and the polenta, provoleta cheese and vegetable stack are other highly recommendable dishes on offer. This parrilla’s quality and creativity have made it a hit both with tourists and locals.

Costa Rica 5602, y Fitz Roy (4771 4255/www.parrillamiranda.com). Bus 39, 140, 151, 168. Open 9am-1am daily. Main courses $$$. Lunch AR$95-$119. Credit AmEx, DC, MC, V. Map H3.

Perón Perón Only in Argentina would anyone dream up a restaurant like Perón Perón: an all-guns-blazing tribute to Argentina’s original power couple and the working class Peronist movement. Historic photos, political graffiti and antiques from the 1940s and 1950s cover every inch of the place, and taking centre stage is an Evita shrine. The menu too is peppered with cheeky political references like the chocolate cabecita negra mousse; even the beer here is Peronist, and makes for a refreshing way to wash down a plate of freshly-fried ossobuco empanadas. We can’t imagine a Maggie Thatcher themed restaurant having quite the same following.

Carranza 2225, entre Paraguay y Guatemala (4777 6194). Subte D, Ministro Carranza/bus 29, 39, 93, 108, 111. Open 6pm-1am Mon-Fri; 7pm-2am Sat. Main courses $. No credit cards. Map H3.

La Pescadorita Palermo-ites hankering after fresh fish are in for a treat. Situated opposite popular meaty joint La Dorita, this upmarket fish restaurant owned by the same people (clue’s in the name) is a breath of fresh air in BA’s meatorientated restaurant scene. Within the kitsch-cool interior are mosaics of colourful starfish and big-boobed mermaids, wicker lampshades, rainbow fairy lights and baby-blue furniture. It’s a bit like eating in a children’s playroom, only cooler. On the small but perfectly formed menu are the likes of breaded langoustines with wasabi mayo, and crispy salmon with roast tomatoes and tartare sauce. The wine list errs on the expensive side, but the light and crispy Territorio torrontés is the perfect accompaniment to a delicious pescatarian meal.

Hierbabuena (see p36).

Humboldt 1905, y Costa Rica (4773 0070). Bus 34, 39, 57, 93, 108, 111, 166. Open noon-4pm, 8.30pm-1am Tue-Fri; 8.30pm-2am Sat, Sun. Main courses $$$$. Lunch AR$85-$95.

Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H3.

ARGENTINIAN – MODERN

Casa Cruz Argentinian fare kicked up a notch; longstanding Casa Cruz has relaunched and reloaded under the careful eye of Aldo Graziani, of Aldo’s Vinoteca (see p32) and BeBop (see El Preferido de Palermo p138), serving a modern take on Regarded as a site of historical porteño classics with speciality house interest by the city of Buenos Aires, cocktails, impressive wines, and all in a this is a no-frills, highly authentic luxurious and comfortable setting. restaurant set within a traditional Start with some happy hour tapas like grocery store. Argentinian comfort the tortilla española and pickled foods are favourites here; plates aubergine escabeche, and continue like the fabada asturiana to gorge on the marinated (white beans, chorizo skirt steak or massive sausage and bacon), and milanesa napolitana. the cazuela de mariscos A NEW EMPANADA Extra tip: be sure to Tired of jamón y queso? take lots of selfies in the a la provenzal (seafood stew) are not likely to be Order a cheese, sun-dried impressive bathroom tomato and rocket empa- with wine cava views. updated anytime soon. nada from La Fachada Sip on excellent local Uriarte 1658, y Pasaje (www.lafachada. wine and graze on Santa Rosa (4833 com.ar). assorted Spanish tapas 1112/www.casacruzrestaurant.com). Bus 34, 39, while you make a mental note 55, 108, 140, 151. Open from to read Borges in the original, now 7pm Mon-Sat. Main courses $$$$. that you’ve dined on the corner where Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2. the author claims that Buenos Aires began.

Guatemala 4801, y Jorge Luis Borges Crizia (4774 6585). Subte D, Plaza Italia/ A high-ceilinged, New York-style bus 34, 36, 39, 160. Open noon-4pm, dining room, sophisticated cocktails 8pm-midnight Mon-Sat. Main and a long oyster bar set the scene for courses $$. Credit AmEx, MC, V. a Sex and the City-style get-together with your besties (the elegant ones that Map G3.

46 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014

TOP TIP!

!Hernán Gipponi Restaurante Top Argentinian chef Gipponi, who worked in Spain’s Michelin-starred restaurant El Poblet (now Quique Dacosta), has brought some of that Michelin magic back to BA with him.

This restaurant in the Fierro Hotel (see p156) is renowned for its tapas-style dishes, seafood and fresh fish plates and special dining events. Monday evenings host 14 diners at a single table for a night of wine pairings and dishes served by the chef himself. Once a month you can TFIF (Thank Fierro it’s Friday) and head to the back garden for a happy hour of cocktails, music and tapas. Time Out recommends the menú degustación, comprising seven courses (AR$260 per person), matched with wine picked out by none other than the president of the Argentinian Sommelier Association, Andrés Rosberg. And for a gourmet hangover cure, don’t miss the excellent five-course weekend brunch available from 12.30pm.

Soler 5862, entre Carranza y Ravignani (3220 6820/www.fierrohotel. com). Subte D, Ministro Carranza/bus 39, 41, 108, 111, 152, 161, 194.

Open 7.30am-11pm Mon-Fri; 8am-11.30pm Sat, Sun. Main courses $$$$. Weekend brunch AR$200. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H3.

Janio Just across from Plaza Armenia, replete with outdoor seating and a huge, multi-tiered interior, Janio is located in the equivalent of the executive corner office of Palermo Soho. A block that sees countless tourists and locals on a daily basis has to have a little something for everyone, and Janio, (with dishes like beef stir-fry, lasagne, coconut curry and milanesa on its menu) certainly does. Lunch specials are well-priced for the neighbourhood, but Janio sees diners at just about every hour of the day enjoying a generous glass of malbec and watching Palermo go by.

Malabia 1805, y Costa Rica (4833 6540/www.janiorestaurant.com). Bus 39, 57, 106, 110, 140, 141, 151, 160, 168. Open 8am-1am Sun-Thur; 8am-5am Fri, Sat. Main Courses $$$.

Lunch AR$59. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3.

Restaurants Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014 47

Restaurants

Museo Evita Restaurante Museum restaurants can be hit or miss, but the lunch experience at Museo Evita’s restaurant is a far cry from standing in a cafeteria-style queue for overpriced bottled water and grilled panini. Housed in the same ritzy antique residence that once served as a women’s shelter run by Eva Perón’s foundation, the restaurant offers two appealing venues – a black-and-white tiled courtyard and the cosy-chic dining room, decorated with tasteful Evita memorabilia. The rocket salad with figs, brie, artichoke and jamón crudo makes for a sensational and sophisticated lunch. The dinner menu tends towards heartier dishes like risotto, pastas and steaks. On balmier nights on the patio, a passionfruit mousse and a generous glass of malbec are well worth lingering over.

You can also pick up souvenirs, from dedicated bottles of wine to Evita T-shirts, from the museum’s shop.

Juan María Gutiérrez 3926, y República de la India (4800 1599/www. museoevitaresto.com). Subte D, Plaza Italia/bus 10, 15, 108, 110, 128, 188, 194. Open 9am-midnight Mon-Sat; 9am-7pm Sun. Main courses $$$.

Lunch AR$90. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G4. V

tiled black and white floors, crisp white linen tablecloths, blackboard menu and vintage bike propped against the wall give the place a cosy, unpretentious feel, while the knowledgeable staff make sure every customer is very well looked after.

Arévalo 1502, y Cabrera (4775 7759/ www.parejaarevalo.com). Bus 29, 34, 168. Open 8-11.30pm Tue-Sat; 1-3pm Sat, Sun. Tasting menus $$$$.

Credit MC. Map H2.

!Las Pizarras Tucked away in a quiet part of Palermo, this tiny restaurant is almost invisible from the outside, but once inside the black cast iron doors, there’s a warm, glowing ambience, buzzing with the low hum of conversation and clinking wine glasses. This stylish but laid-back restaurant has no menu, just a list of creative concoctions made from whatever owner and chef, Rodrigo Castilla (ex chef tournant to Gary Rhodes), has bought fresh from the market that day. Those concoctions are scrawled on huge chalkboards (pizarras) hung around the walls; sketches of ducks, corn stalks, carrots and rabbits next to the descriptions can clue you in to the ingredients if your Spanish escapes you. Though dishes are often based on Argentinian classics, this restaurant is NC Freud & Fahler truly one of a kind. If There’s a real you can’t make your mind neighbourhood feeling to up and are feeling this fine restaurant and FEELING LOST? adventurous, ask Rodrigo, pâtisserie. Set on a quiet Sign up with the who speaks fluent corner with plenty of Aussie-Argie team at good wine (try the Animal Fuudis (fuudis.com) for English, to order for you.

Thames 2296, y Charcas chardonnay) and fresh a guided dining (4775 0625/www. bread, it makes for an tour. laspizarrasbistro.com). Subte elegant night out. An D, Plaza Italia/bus 15, 29, 34, 36, impressive 1950s flip clock from an 55, 93, 152. Open from 8pm Tue-Sun. Italian train station hanging on the Main courses $$$. Credit AmEx, wall is just one example of the MC, V. Map G3. restaurant’s semi-industrial 1950s aesthetic, with a straightforward decor !Tegui of white marble tabletops and low-hanging bubble lamps. Stop by for Though it was ranked at No. 9 in Latin America’s 50 Best Restaurants (www. the wickedly good torta húmeda de theworlds50best.com), Tegui remains chocolate amargo in the afternoon, or discreet. Tucked behind an eyetreat yourself to the exotic dishes catching, deliberately graffitied wall inspired by chef and owner Pablo and unassuming black door lies Lykan’s travels. The Patagonian lamb Argentina’s top-rated restaurant. Inside proves that beef isn’t the only meat it is a more sumptuous affair: a wine worth sampling in Argentina. cellar spans the entire front wall, Cabrera 5300, y Godoy Cruz (4771 forming an impressive backdrop to the 3652). Bus 39, 55. Open 8.30pmlarger-than-life ceiling. The open midnight Mon-Fri; 12.30-5pm Sat. Pastelería 11.30am-8pm Mon-Fri. Main kitchen allows diners to peer in on the catering process, and the VIP room, courses $$$. Lunch AR$170. Credit which borders the kitchen, presents AmEx, MC, V. Map G3. guests with an exclusive dining experience, compliments of head chef !Paraje Arévalo Germán Martitegui. A brief but Cited as many a restaurant reviewer’s favourite spot, Paraje Arévalo certainly exquisite menu changes weekly, utilising whatever techniques or has gained a glowing reputation ingredients have caught the chef’s among BA’s foodies. It’s no surprise fancy (sweetbreads, fresh gnocchi and really, seeing as chef-owners Matias ossobuco are certainly no strangers to Kyrizis and partner Estefania di the menu). In the evening, you can opt Benedetto met during their stint at the for the eight course menu for AR$590 Michelin-starred Fat Duck in the UK. They certainly learnt a thing or two, as (AR$850 with the addition of six different wines). the tasting menus (choose from six to Costa Rica 5852, entre Ravignani y ten courses) feature innovative dishes Carranza (5291 3333/www.tegui.com. such as pepper and coriander crusted ar). Bus 39, 57, 93, 108, 111, 168. sirloin and salmon cooked at 55 Open 12.30-3pm Tue-Sat; 8.30pmdegrees in beetroot juice. As for the 12.30am Tue, Wed; 8.30pm-1am Thur; decor, it’s charmingly understated: the

TOP TIP!

Olsen (see p55).

Leopoldo ‘Eat and enjoy!’ booms owner Javier Cainzos when he describes his ambitions for Leopoldo, the ubermodern restaurant close to the grounds of the Jardín Zoológico. This spot tucked away in Palermo Chico is a place to see and be seen: a popular hangout for local models and celebrities to compare notes while entrepreneurs pull out iced champagne from their buckets. But the big success behind Leopoldo lies in the kitchen: Diego Gera, a member of the revered Académie Culinaire de France, serves up exotic dishes of luxurious meats like lamb and duck, while at the bar, star barman Carlo Conti shakes and stirs delicious cocktails.

Cerviño 3732, entre República Árabe Siria y Ugarteche (4805 5576). Bus 10, 37, 41, 57, 59, 60, 128, 130, 160, 188. Open 7pm-3am Tue-Sat. Main courses $$$$. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G4.

Local On a quiet corner of Palermo Hollywood, away from the trendy bars, the talented culinary duo behind novel restaurant Paraje Arévalo (see right) have offered another hit. This time chef Estefania di Benedetto (wo)mans the stove, so to speak, cooking up a menu of simple rustic dishes from the open kitchen. Pretty much anything that comes out of the wood fired oven is superb, especially the juicy, roasted herbed chicken served with a crackling crispy skin and presented atop a pillowy knoll of potato purée. These gourmet offerings contrast nicely with the minimalist, Scandinavian-esque surroundings.

Arévalo 2061, y Soler (4773 6119/ www.localrestaurant.com.ar). Subte D, Ministro Carranza/bus 39, 41, 57, 60, 67, 68, 111, 152, 161, 168, 194.

Open 8pm-11.30pm, Tue-Fri; from 8.30pm Sat, Sun. Main courses $$$.

No credit cards. Map H3.

48 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014

Restaurants Bio (see p60).

8.30pm-1.30am Fri, Sat. Main courses $$$$. Lunch AR$350. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H3.

BRAZILIAN

Boteco do Brasil So many Brazilian restaurants outside of Brazil get it wrong, either serving up triple-fried heart attacks on a plate or charging you the equivalent of an airfare to Rio for a caipirinha. Boteco do Brasil has avoided all those pitfalls, making it the top-reigning Brazilian spot in BA. Its good-value menu serves a stunning rendition of the Brazilian national dish, feijoada, and seafood lovers will rejoice with the coconutty bobó de camarão and flaky empadinha de camarão, both made with quality prawns. Its success has allowed Boteco to recently relocate to a larger, brighter space adorned with colourful paintings, a beautiful terrace with cushy white banquets, and a bar that serves the best caipirinhas in town.

Check the Facebook page for information and updates on the Brazilian live music nights.

Honduras 5774, y Bonpland (3979 2970/www.botecodobrasil.com). Bus 39, 57, 93, 151, 166, 168. Open 11am-midnight Tue-Sat; 11am-8pm Sun. Main courses $. No credit cards. Map H2. !A

BRITISH

Chipper For a country with 5000km of Atlantic coastline, fish is surprisingly overlooked on most Argentinian restaurant menus.

Little wonder then that BA’s first traditional fish and chips eaterie is netting a roaring trade. The owner may be Irish (there’s Guinness on the menu) and the chef Peruvian, but this is the real British deal: think flaky, deep-fried cod in a crispy batter served with thick-cut potato chips and a wedge of lemon. Add a choice of home-made dipping sauces – tartare, mushy peas, spicy curry or blue cheese – and you’ve got yourself a gourmet fishy feast.

Grilled salmon and salads are healthier options, while beef burgers and chicken nuggets ensure pescaphobes are catered for. The nautical-style interior is all blue-and-white decor and shimmery tropical fish. Take away and delivery are offered, but you’d be wise to eat in – and fast – if you go for the delectable deep-fried ice-cream.

Humboldt 1893, entre Costa Rica y El Salvador (4777 6760/www. chipperfishandchips.com). Bus 34, 39, 93, 108, 111, 151, 166.. Open noon-4pm, 7pm-midnight daily. Main courses $$. Lunch AR$58. Credit MC, V. Map H2. !

50 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014

town. A standout on the menu is the ECLECTIC Naira, a delicious goat’s cheese, Azema Exotic Bistró caramelised onion, organic quinoa, Run by twinkly-eyed, amiable sweetcorn and red pepper wrap that chef-owner Paul Jean Azema, this melts in the mouth, but you can’t go restaurant is a word-of-mouth wonder. wrong with any combo of tasty Loosely themed on the cuisine of cheeses, grilled veggies and curried French and formerly French territories, which gives meaning to the ‘Exotic’ part sauces. The service is perfect and the puddings even more so; go up a belt of the restaurant’s name, the menu notch to make room for the pear features dishes from the South Pacific, crumble with organic dark chocolate the Caribbean, various parts of Asia, ice-cream. Wines and beers (organic, of and even Réunion, Azema’s native course) are also on the menu to refresh Indian Ocean island. The globe-trotting your palate. Not to forget, there is also cuisine means you could see a 10% off your bill if you come by bike.

Vietnamese pho and pâté de campagne Gorriti 4812, y Armenia (2072 on a baguette on the same menu, 4295/ www.fifialmacen.com. and fortunately at Azema you ar). Bus 15, 34, 39, 141. know they’ll both be Open 10am-8pm cooked just right. You can Sun-Thur;10am-12am pick up a copy of BA’s Fri, Sat. Main Courses WINE AND DINE French newspaper, Le Aldos’s (see p32) sells $. No credit cards.

Trait-d’Union, while Map G2. some of the tastiest you’re there. wines in town at market Carranza 1875, entre price.

Marathika Costa Rica y El Salvador Who would have thought (4774 4191). Bus 39, 93. that beloved Sufi café Baraka Open 12.30-4.30pm, 8.30pmwould ever serve ojo de bife and midnight Mon-Sat. Main courses $$. malbec? But Baraka is no more, it has Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H3. now evolved into Marathika, a full-service restaurant. The semi-hippie Fifí Almacén vibe lives on in the Indian lamps This large almacén and organic eaterie hanging from the ceiling and the serves up some of the tastiest wraps in organic menu options, but Marathika

TOP TIP!

Restaurants La Panadería de Pablo (see p34).

goes where Baraka never did by serving alcohol and installing a parrilla. Organic wines and artisanal beer from Broeders and Antares liven up the atmosphere and the menu offers something for everyone, with vegan and gluten-free options alongside the parrilla fare. It hasn’t completely lost its café roots as home-made bread and pastries and breakfast and brunch are on hand as well, and there’s still the same quality the neighbourhood has come to expect from this charming spot. Be sure to head upstairs to the charming terrace on warmer nights.

Gurruchaga 1450, entre Cabrera y Gorriti (4834 6427). Bus 39, 110, 140, 151. Open 11am-midnight daily.

Main Courses AR$80-90. No credit cards. Map G2.

Quimbombó Those in need of a little zen in their lives – or at least on their lunch break – might want to head to this classic spot overlooking Plaza Armenia. The menu covers almost every region on the globe – the goat’s cheese and baba ganoush Ali Baba wrap covers the Middle East, while the lamb curry is a pleasant trip to India, and a seitan milanesa takes you back to Argentina.

For complete serenity, go for the good value lunch deals that include an appetizer, entrée, dessert and coffee.

Billowing white curtains, bamboo lamps and a Buddha statue reflect the menu’s ethnic vibe, and on summer days and Buenos Aires’s balmier nights, you can’t beat the elegant roof terrace upstairs.

Costa Rica 4562, y Armenia (4831 5556/www.quimbombo.com.ar). Bus 15, 36, 55, 111, 140, 151. Open noon-4pm, 8pm-midnight daily. Main $$$. Lunch AR$80. Credit AmEx, V, MC. Map G3.

FRENCH

A Nos Amours This Parisian bistro – with its high windows, black-and-white photographs, vases filled with fresh flowers and French poetry books resting on each table – is a suitable spot to indulge in a romantic candlelit dinner. A large chalkboard announces the limited yet carefully chosen in-season menu, including favourites such as light and airy ricotta gnocchi, silky risotto or fish of the day; the wine list is equally well-curated, with bottles from various regions of Argentina, each hand-picked by the charismatic French owner. Tempting desserts like lemon tart make it near obligatory to end the meal on a sweet note.

Gorriti 4488, y Aráoz (4897 2072).

Bus 39, 151. Open from 9pm Mon-Sat; noon-7pm Sun. Main courses $$.

Credit AmEx, V. Map G2.

ITALIAN

Il Ballo del Mattone Wildly popular, family-owned Il Ballo del Mattone is just as well known for its pasta dishes as it is for its cool, arty decor. The speciality is fusilli scarparo – a deliciously simple parmesan, tomato, garlic and basil pasta. Expect chalkboard menus, kitsch art scattered about and helpful staff. The laid-back, quirky and fiercely hardworking owners deserve the success they have garnered – and they still find the time to host art exhibitions and film screenings. Check the Facebook page for the latest news and events.

Gorriti 5737, entre Carranza y Bonpland (4776 4247/www.ilballo. delmattone.com). Subte D, Carranza/ bus 39, 108. Open noon-3am Mon-Sat; 8pm-2am Sun. Main courses $$$.

Lunch AR$70. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H3. !

52 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014

Other location Gorriti 5950, Palermo (4776 8648). !Cucina Paradiso The closest you’ll get to Italy without hopping on a plane, this cosy café-cum-restaurant has hungry punters queuing at the door. Inside, wooden tables are crammed together while shelves are stacked with top quality Italian produce ranging from celebrity chef and owner Donato de Santis’s brand of extra-virgin olive oil to bottles of imported Grappa. Chefs cut fresh pasta at the counter, while foodies salivate over mozzarella, marinated olives and rosemary focaccia at the deli. The clinking of wine glasses, the strains of ‘O Sole Mio’, the rich aroma of Illy coffee and animated discussions enjoyed over platefuls of authentic Italian pasta (try the gnocchi with pesto and mascarpone) will provide solace to any homesick Italian.

Arévalo 1538, y Cabrera (4770 9406/ www.dadonato.com). Bus 39, 168.

Open 9am-8pm Mon-Sat. Main courses $$. Credit AmEx, DC, MC. Map H3.

Forneria Easily the best dining option on Plaza Armenia, this restaurant has carved out a niche for itself as a refuge from the busy fashionista thoroughfares.

With its elegant French-style bar, exposed brickwork and retro-chic simplicity, Forneria attracts the laptop-affixed workaholic by day and an unaffected Palermo crowd by night.

For something substantial, you can’t go wrong with a wood-oven pizza and interesting salad. Although perhaps resist ordering the delicious sounding ‘Beso Prohibido’ pizza (topped with plenty of cheese, garlic, olives and basil) if you’re on a date.

Malabia 1825, entre Costa Rica y Nicaragua (4831 5447/www.forneria. com.ar). Bus 39, 55, 57, 111, 141, 168. Open 8am-1am daily. Main courses $$. Lunch AR$70. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3. !Guido Restaurant A narrow stairway leads up to this intimate space, a little piece of Italy on a quiet street, where red and white chequered tablecloths, mismatched wall art and Italian tunes help pull the scene together. Inviting you to ‘mangia sano, mangia italiano’, the menu’s great selection of pasta, creative sauces and pizzas ensures just that: good, healthy Italian dining. The menu’s star plates include the seafood platter for two and the agnolottis stuffed with braised lamb, truffle cream and porcini mushrooms. Those tired of the typical ojo de bife and malbec combo should try a Kobe beef burger with one of the artisanal beers available on tap for a welcome change. An excellent bar serving up classic cocktails, live music on Thursdays and Fridays and an outside patio, make this the perfect spot to enjoy a warm evening.

Cerviño 3943, y República de la India (4802 1262/www.guidorestaurant. com.ar). Bus 10, 118, 161, 188. Open 6pm-midnight Tue-Sun. Main courses $$$. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G4.

Guido’s Bar This pea-sized trattoria is the kind of place one always looks for but rarely finds in Italy. With every inch of the letterbox-red walls plastered in movie poster kitsch, featuring real Italians (Mastroianni and Caruso) alongside honorary ones (Sammy Davis Jr), Guido’s is as much an evocation of an era as it is a culture – and in 2009 was

Restaurants

the alleged meeting place of smitten South Carolina governor Mark Sanford and his local lover. There’s nothing sordid about owner Carlos’s passion for Italian food, though. The tasting menu is splendid: waiters force-feed you a parade of colourful appetisers followed by home-made pasta and dessert, until you say, ‘basta!’

República de la India 2843, entre Cabello y Gutiérrez (4802 2391).

Subte D, Plaza Italia/bus 29, 39, 152.

Open 7am-midnight Mon-Sat. Tasting menus evening AR$250$300. No credit cards. Map G4.

Siamo nel Forno Superb service and airy, thin-crust pizza made to order – no mean feat in Buenos Aires, where pizza can often mean thick slabs of reheated, cheese-laden dough, slapped on a countertop. At this little Palermo restaurant, you’ll only find authentic Neapolitan-style pizza, meaning chewy crusts, fresh mozzarella and a drizzling of quality olive oil. A huge brick oven in the centre of the dining room gives the small space a mouth-watering view of every pizza from its inception to final product. Standouts include the Patate, a simple potato pizza, and the Spinaci, with three types of cheese and fresh spinach leaves. Specials change nightly, often with less conventional toppings like asparagus and octopus.

There is a small, savvy wine list, and for dessert, save room for a decadent nutella-laden pizza.

Costa Rica 5886, entre Ravignani y Carranza (4775 0337). Subte D, Carranza/bus 39, 57, 108, 111, 168.

Open 8pm-midnight Tue-Sun. Main courses $$. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H3.

JAPANESE

Tenkuu Sushi This sushi spot in Palermo balances the subtle class of Japanese tradition with the culinary vitality of contemporary Peruvian fusion. The extensive menu includes mouthwatering sashimi and excellent nigiri, as well as a range of Pacific flavours such as Thai chicken and superb Peruvian brochettes. Be sure to book in advance as the space is intimate to say the least, but those who do manage to secure a table will enjoy good service overlooked by Japanese paintings. Top it all off with some saké and you’ll see why Tenkuu is a firm Time Out favourite for sushi.

Cabello 3370, y Paunero (4801 8042/ tenkuusushi.com.ar). Bus 57, 59, 60, 67, 92, 93, 95, 102. Open 8-11pm Mon-Sat. Main courses $$$. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map F4.

Tô Sashimi, meet foie gras. Tô presents Buenos Aires’s first-and-only conveyor belt sushi service, with a Gallic twist. A brawny team of sushi shokunins, chefs and mixologists functions like a well-oiled machine in a lofted space with plenty of authentic Asian

Il Ballo del Mattone (see p52).

54 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014

ambience. Grab a counter stool for on-demand California rolls and the freshest salmon sashimi; for heartier fare, indulge in pork dumplings, Kobe beef or lobster breaded in panko crumbs. The sushi here can’t be beat, but don’t grab too many rolls off the conveyor belt or you’ll have no room for the dulce de leche volcán.

Costa Rica 6000, y Arévalo (4772 8569/www.torestaurant.com). Bus 39, 57, 111, 151. Open noon-3.30pm, 8pm-midnight Mon-Wed; 8pm-1am Thur-Sat. Main courses $$$. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H3. A Wasabi’s Beneath the chalked doodles on the ceiling and the bright, multicoloured walls, Wasabi’s seems like a fish out of water, peddling quality Japanese cuisine at prices that are hard to believe, especially for its excellent Palermo Soho location. The classic rolls are all there, but Wasabi’s certainly isn’t bogged down by tradition; the Mexican roll is salmon topped with guacamole and a tortilla chip, and the Pleasure roll is avocado wrapped with bright pink salmon and topped with fried sweet potato and passion fruit sauce. This may not be Palermo’s most sophisticated Japanese restaurant, but the sushi combos and Thai and Peruvian fusion plates offer plenty of bang for your buck. Feeling lazy? Opt for the speedy delivery service.

Thames 1810, entre Nicaragua y Costa Rica (4832 9346/www.wasabis.com.ar).

Bus 39, 152. Open noon-4pm, 8pm-12.30am Mon-Sat; 8pm-12.30am Sun. Main courses $$$. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3. !

MEXICAN

CBC – California Burrito Co. With an assembly-line model in which you point out your fillings as you move along, generous portions and bright decor, it’s no wonder hundreds line up every day to build their own burritos, tacos, quesadillas and nachos. Watch out for two-for-one beer and sangria deals on weeknights from 7pm to 9pm.

Weekends are just as packed thanks to the rooftop bar upstairs, which serves margaritas and Coronas to the Palermo party crowd.

Godoy Cruz 1781, y Honduras (4832 1984/www.cbcburrito.com). Bus 34, 39, 108, 111, 151, 168. Open 11ammidnight Mon-Thur; 11am-1am Fri, Sat. Main courses $$. No credit cards. Map G2.

Other locations Lavalle 441, Microcentro (4328 3057); Marcelo T de Alvear 1000, Recoleta (4322 0080). !La Fábrica del Taco With a new locale in Las Cañitas and its popular bar, La Adorada (see p76), across the road, La Fábrica del Taco is fast building on the sterling reputation of its Palermo base – and with good reason. Tonsil-tingling tomato salsas add real spice to the fresh tacos. For those with a more sensitive tongue, the house speciality taco al pastor – strips

PERUVIAN

Bardot With its purple sofas and red velvet curtains, this French-named Peruvian restaurant is all about making a bold statement from the moment you walk down the red carpet entrance. But if the bling decor doesn’t float your boat, the food certainly will. Time Out recommends the tangy degustación de ceviche to start, followed by the frejolada (bean stew with pickled grouper and seafood) all washed down with a range of perfectly executed pisco sours. Should you be hankering after a nightcap, Bardot’s location in the heart of Palermo Soho means you need only stumble a few steps to find a trendy bar.

Honduras 5237, y Uriarte (4831 1112/ www.restobardot.com). Bus 15, 39, 110. Open 8pm-12.30am Tue-Fri; 1-4pm, 8pm-1.30am Sat, Sun. Main courses $$$. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2.

Chira Despite opening less than a year ago, Chira’s combination of sleek decor and creative dishes makes it one of the heavyweights in the competitive Peruvian fusion scene. Among head chef Renato Ortigas’s concoctions are the marvellous sautéed langoustines with pisco and red curry, as well as a full range of newly added sushi plates.

The Mariflor sauvignon blanc is an excellent accompaniment to the seafood creations, but if you’d prefer something different ask the resident sommelier for his expert advice.

Humboldt 1864, y Nicaragua (4777 0724/www.chiracocinafusion.com.ar).

Bus 34, 39, 108. Open noon-3.30pm, 8pm-midnight Mon-Sat. Main courses $$$$. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H3.

M Bar Part art gallery, part sushi bar, part bistro, the new M Bar pleases everyone with a menu that is as diverse as it is delicious. The M stands for mar (sea): much of the menu is pescatarian, with stand-out Peruvian dishes such as the tiradito limeño – tangy, limey sole strips with aji amarillo – and creative sushi, like the salmon nigiri with rocoto sauce, ginger and garlic. But fish-phobes need not despair, as there’s pasta, burgers and steak on the menu too. Sit at the sushi bar or grab a table by the art covered wall and dine under stylish hanging lamps to the sound of sizzles coming from the open kitchen.

El Salvador 5783, y Carranza (4778 9016/www.mbuenosaires.com.ar). Bus 39, 93, 108, 111. Open noon-3.30pm Mon-Fri; 5pm-midnight Mon-Sat. Main

courses $$$. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H3.

Olaya Olaya isn’t just another spot serving Peruvian-Japanese Nikkei fusion.

Instead, executive chef José Castro Mendivil, also responsible for Osaka (see p42), Sipan (see below) and Mullu (see p30), pays tribute to over 500 years of Peruvian food culture and immigration, combining local culinary legacies with worldly cuisines: Japanese, Chinese, Indonesian, French and Italian. The extravagant space features a massive mural by famous Argentinian artist Milo Lockett, pisco bottles on display and a whole fish on ice next to the open kitchen. Portions are hefty, as are the prices, making it a mecca for trendy big Palermo spenders to enter into a world of elaborate and sophisticated Peruvian flavours.

Humboldt 1550, entre Gorriti y Cabrera (4843 1751). Bus 39, 93, 108, 111. Open noon-3pm, from 8pm Mon-Sat. Main courses $$$$. Credit MC, V. Map H2.

Restaurants

of marinated pork with a tasty home-made sauce – is a firm favourite and best washed down with a Corona or tequila-based cocktail. .

Gorriti 5062, y Serrano (4832 0815/ www.lafabricadeltaco.com). Bus 15, 140, 151, 168. Open noon-6pm, 7pm-2am Tue-Sun. Main courses $.

No credit cards. Map G2. !A Other location Báez 246, Las Cañitas (4832 0815).

Páru Who knew sliced fish could taste so good with parmesan cheese? Peru-born chef Jann Van Oordt, co-creator of Osaka (see p42), has gone it alone here to produce a successful joint which, after a dream run in upscale Palermo Hollywood, recently relocated to the even more upscale, uber-exclusive Vilas Club tucked away in the Palermo woods. Park yourself on the terrace and expect temptation to strike under each heading on the menu – and on the excellent pisco-dominated drinks list.

Vilas Club, Valentín Alsina 1450 (4778 3307/www.paru.com.ar). Bus 15, 29, 42, 55, 118, 130. Open from 8.30pm Mon-Sat. Main courses $$$. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Sipan Fashionably located in the Palermitano hotel, Sipan’s funky decor, open kitchen, impeccable service (no mean feat in Argentina) and stellar pisco bar make it a winner on the Peruvian cuisine circuit. Bow down before the Señor de los Milagros cocktail, a uniquely Peruvian mix of pisco, purple corn and lime, before getting started on an array of ceviche and sashimi.

Favourites include the octopus in black olive cream and the tiracuyá – a tiradito of fresh pink salmon with miel de maracuyá (passionfruit honey) and crispy filo dough.

Uriarte 1648, entre Honduras y El Salvador (4833 9383/www. sipanrestaurants.com). Bus 39, 55, 140. Open noon-4pm, 8pm-1am Tue-Sun. Main courses $$$$. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2. A SCANDINAVIAN

Olsen Olsen has been going strong for ten years; it was one of the first chic haunts to come to Palermo Hollywood, a barrio that is now swimming with chic haunts. Nonetheless, Olsen’s uber-stylish, minimalist design, (think hanging copper lamps and an Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014 55

Restaurants

describe as kitsch tat, all under the watchful gaze of Ho Chi Minh.

Costa Rica 5802, y Carranza (4775 7050/www.green-bamboo.com.ar). Bus 34, 55, 111. Open from 8.30pm daily.

Main courses $$$. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H3. AV

ivy-covered patio lounge) manages to remain a standout in the neighbourhood. The Scandinavian cuisine matches the stylish interior, with the smørrebrød (comprising smoked salmon, pastrami, smoked cheese, langoustine and more) being a favourite. No trip to Scandinavia would be complete without a bit of vodka; Olsen’s 60-plus vodka shots are the house speciality, but the liquor is put to particularly good use in the house cocktail, Mint – Absolut vodka, passionfruit and…you guessed it, mint.

On a weekend afternoon, spend a few hours nursing a bloody mary while lounging in the patio, and you’ll understand why Olsen is here to stay.

Gorriti 5870, entre Carranza y Ravignani (4776 7677). Bus 34, 39, 55, 93, 111, 140. Open from noon Tue-Sat; 10.30am-midnight Sun. Main courses $$$. Lunch AR$96. Credit V. Map H2. AV SOUTH-EAST ASIAN

La Esperanza de los Ascurra (see p62).

56 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014

Green Bamboo The popular Vietnamese restaurant Green Bamboo balances the five essential elements of sweet, salty, bitter, spicy and sour tastes in a way that’s likely to keep even the most sophisticated palate interested. You can build your own plate with your choice of noodles, rice and meat, or order from an array of perfectly balanced dishes that includes the like of fried wontons filled with steamed tofu and aubergine, ginger and sweet chilli squid, decadent short ribs and fish of the day marinated with tamarind, basil and shallots, wrapped up in a bamboo leaf and barbecued. One of their exotic-fruit inspired cocktails, like the delicate litchi martini or a grapefruit-laced Hemingway daiquiri, is an absolute must to round out a meal. With your stomach thrilled by the spicy delights, the bar area will keep your eyes amused with what some might

!Sudestada Since 1999, Sudestada has firmly established itself as one of the city’s most popular eateries. It’s a compact, minimalist restaurant where owners Santiago Garrat and Leonardo Azulay dish up spicy (yes, really and truly spicy) food from cuisines across South-east Asia. Dishes rotate in and out of the menu, but among the starters is usually a delectable fried item, like fish cakes with a chilli sauce.

Main dishes include Thai noodle dishes, fried rice and a rotating selection of curries, which can include lamb, pork, pulpo (octopus) or chicken.

The lunch special available on weekdays has risen in cost due to inflation, but nonetheless remains a good value, with wine, starter and main all for AR$70.

Guatemala 5602, y Fitz Roy (4776 3777). Subte D, Palermo/bus 15, 93, 108, 111, 194. Open noon-3.30pm, 8pm-midnight Mon-Thur; 8pm-1am Fri, Sat. Main courses $$$. Lunch AR$70. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H3.

VEGETARIAN

Arevalito Mismatched tables and chairs, paper lamps and handwritten menus, this vegetarian joint is hippie-chic to the core, but charming decor aside, it’s the home-made food that plays the starring role. Each day sees a new menu that changes between lunch and dinner, typically featuring a vegetable tart, a salad of the day and numerous desserts. The pastry on the leek and potato tart Time Out had was close to perfect: crumbly, thick and tasty.

Expect to see as well unique creations like a vegetable-stuffed chapatti topped with a poached egg, accompanied by a huge, fresh green salad. Just as spectacular and delicious is the refreshing lemon pomelade.

Arévalo 1478, y Cabrera (4776 4252).

Bus 39, 93, 108, 111. Open 10am-midnight Mon-Sat. Main courses $. Lunch AR$39-45. No credit cards. Map H2. !V Artemisia With decor that includes deliberately mismatched crockery and a pantrystyle counter laden with tempting home-made breads and muffins, this vegetarian eaterie has become an instant hit with Palermo’s brunch set.

Try starting your meal with an atypical picada – that’s atypical in that instead of consisting of ham and cheese, it includes bruschetta with dips and the delicious and original addition of beetroot marinated in ginger, honey and thyme. Mains include polenta lasagne and haddock in a marinade of lemongrass and coconut milk.

Gorriti 5996, entre Ravignani y Arévalo (4776 5484/www. artemisianatural.com.ar). Bus 39, 151.

Restaurants

Jueves a la Mesa.

Behind closed doors Our pick of Buenos Aires’s best puertas cerradas.

A

34, 39, 108, 111, 151. Open from 8.30pm Wed-Sat. Set menu AR$410 (6 courses). Credit AmEx, MC, V.

Casa Coupage At Casa Coupage you can expect the drinks to be every bit as spectacular as the food. The brains behind the outfit, Santiago Mymicopulo and Inés Mendieta, are both sommeliers, so alongside your dainty portions of expertly prepared seafood, such as the local fish trilla, and red meats like lamb, you can opt for a wine-tasting menu of seven (AR$220), five (AR$170) or three wines (AR$120). Alongside the set food menus there are à la carte options and wines by the glass. ! Location Palermo (4777 9295/ www.casacoupage.com). Bus

Casa Felix At Casa Felix, Diego and his wife Sanra invite guests into their Chacarita home for a five-course tasting menu. Each dish, usually vegetable or fish-based, is made from exotic produce sourced during the couple’s travels – and oftentimes from the back garden. Past menus have included sopes (thick, fluffy corn tortillas) with guacamole, and figs stewed in malbec to start, gorgeous seafood plates and for a hearty main course, home-made tamales. A small selection of Argentinian wines are available to purchase, and hot beverages are included in the price to finish off the meal. ! Location Chacarita (mobile 15 4147 8100/www.colectivofelix. com). Bus 39, 65, 168. Open from 9.30pm Thur-Sat. Set menu AR$320. V

rriving at a chef’s private home is a bit like going to a dinner party, except everyone’s a stranger – at least for the first few minutes. Puertas cerradas (closeddoor restaurants) offer set menus for a fixed price (take cash as credit cards are rarely accepted) and booking is always required – addresses are provided when you reserve.

58 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014

Casa Saltshaker Casa Saltshaker is the creation of chef and sommelier Dan Perlman.

Every week, Dan rustles up a Mediterranean-inspired menu that might include anything from shish kebabs to clam chowder. Each of the five courses is matched with an appropriate wine or cocktail.

Charming host Henry Tapia keeps everything running smoothly at the communal table. Check the website for a sneak glimpse of the menu. ! Location Barrio Norte (www.casasaltshaker.com). Subte D, Pueyrredón/bus 59, 60, 92, 93, 101. Open from 8.45pm Wed-Sat. Set menu AR$600 (5 courses with wine).

La Cocina Discreta La Cocina Discreta offers a gourmet dining experience combined with art, cultural expositions and good music. Owners Alejandro and Rosana welcome up to 18 guests for a set meal (an aperitif, a choice of two starters, three mains and two desserts) that can include dishes

such as duck breast in a balsamic reduction, accompanied by mint and pea puree and fennel ragout. If you want to make La Cocina Discreta’s elegant, creative cuisine at home, sign up for one of the cooking classes to learn all the secrets. ! Location Villa Crespo (4772 3803/mobile 15 6571 1002/ www.lacocinadiscreta.com). Subte B, Malabia/bus 15, 110. Open from 9pm Wed-Sat. Set menu AR$220.

Cocina Sunae Every week Christina Sunae Wiseman cooks up a new medley of South East Asian flavours at her gorgeous Colegiales home. The four courses rotate between Thai, Vietnamese, Philippine and occasionally Malaysian or Indonesian dishes, but the mix of spicy, sweet, salty and sour is always perfectly harmonized. Thai tom kha soup and Vietnamese spring rolls will peak your appetite for main courses like braised pork doused in a coconut curry. Spice fiends can ask for an extra bit of heat, though if you

I Latina In a city where tropical flavours are scarce, I Latina satisfies many a craving with its Caribbean-Latin American five-course menu. Held in a magnificent house, this upscale dining experience headed by the Colombian Macías brothers is just as much about presentation and service as it is about gourmet food.

While the set menu changes weekly, you can expect playful dishes such as octopus ceviche Nikkei with an avocado foam, or coffee-braised lamb in a green plantain cream. ! Location Villa Crespo (4857 9095/www.ilatinabuenosaires.com).

Bus 15, 55. Open from 8pm TueSat. Set menu AR$540; AR$770 with wine.

Jueves a la Mesa Bubbly US expat Meghan Lewis brings three courses of spice and nourishment to hard-done-by vegetarians every Thursday evening.

Cuisines change weekly and span the globe; West African, Mexican, Italian and Caribbean, just to name a few have all made appearances at the communal table. There are no ascetic salads here, but rather creative, perfectly spiced and filling vegetarian cuisine, After a globetrotting meal, tuck into home-made dark chocolate and digestion-aiding ginger tea. Meghan’s all about spreading the vegetarian love, and posts many of her recipes on her website. ! Location San Telmo (mobile 15 6200 0004/www.juevesalamesa. wordpress.com). Subte C, Independencia/bus 10, 17, 29, 126.

Open from 8.30pm Thur. Set menu AR$200 with wine. V NOLA The New Orleans, Louisiana representative for Buenos Aires, head chef Liza Puglia names her puerta cerrada restaurant for her home town, meaning NOLA introduces something a little different to the BA dining scene with its creole-cajun fusion with a Mexican twist. Diners can expect the likes of seafood, chorizo and okra gumbo (stew) and slow cooked pork shoulder with caramelised pineapple and jalapeños, all served around a communal table in the most tastefully decorated Palermo home. This is a highly professional operation, with Liza’s partner Francisco, a trained

sommelier, matching the wines to each course. Beer-lovers might want to check out the Broeders artisanal beer pop-up led by Francisco on Thursday nights at 9.30pm (AR$200, including meal, beer and brewery tour). ! Location Palermo (mobile 15 5348 4509/www.NOLAbuenosaires. com). Bus 34, 39, 93, 108, 111, 140, 151. Open from 9.30pm Fri, Sat; from 9pm Sun. Set menu AR$500 for four courses with wine, AR$200 beer night.

Restaurants

overdo it, Time Out recommends the ginger kamikaze cocktail as a way to put out the flames. Desserts make for a stunning finish, like the candy coloured Philippine halo-halo: layers of passion fruit, litchi, grapefruit, green tea ice cream, meringue and ginger cookie. A pot of hot tea is a lovely way to round off a satisfying meal. ! Location Colegiales (mobile 15 4870 5506/www.cocinasunae. com). Subte B, Tronador/bus 21, 76, 87, 93, 127, 140. Open from 8pm Thur-Sat. Set menu AR$225. V

Ocho Once Argentinian chef Gonzalo Bazterrica juggled Michelin stars and molecular gastronomy before chucking it in for something more organic in the comfort of his own beautifully renovated home. His artfully presented five-course tasting menus give a French twist to South American classics: the sliver of raw fish in a passionfruit salsa is a nod to Peruvian ceviche, while the organic beef served with a cauliflower and caramelised onion purée in a port sauce doesn’t stray far from the pampas. Fruit-based desserts are waistline-friendly and the wine cellar is a shrine to the organic grape. ! Location Palermo (mobile 15 3614 5719). Bus 39, 93, 108, 111. Open from 9pm Wed-Sat. Set menu AR$280 for five courses; AR$230 for three courses.

Paladar Husband and wife team, chef Pablo Abramovsky and sommellier Ivana, offer up to 20 guests an intimate dining experience in their Villa Crespo home. Keeping the regulars on their toes, the five-course tasting menu changes every week and the selected winery every month. The focus is on combining fresh, local products with skilful cooking techniques. Although some of the most noted dishes are meat or fish based – for example, breaded prawns with a coconut and coriander dressing – vegetarians, coeliacs and raw-foodists can also be catered for with a few days’ notice. ! Location Villa Crespo (mobile 15 5797 7267/www.paladarbuenosaires.com.ar). Subte B, Malabia/ bus 15, 55, 57, 65, 71, 110, 141, 168. Open from 9pm Thur-Sat. Set menu AR$225; AR$325 with wine.

Treintasillas At Treintasillas in Colegiales, diners enjoy a four-course set menu that changes weekly, but is always based on the premise of using high-quality ingredients to produce delicious, memorable meals. Past delights have included a risotto with roasted prawns and cured ham, grilled ribeye steak with caramelised fennel and, to finish, a chocolate and pistachio marquise. ! Location Colegiales (mobile 15 4492 7046/www.treintasillas.com).

Bus 39, 42, 63, 108, 168, 176, 184. Open from 8pm Thur-Sat. Set menu AR$240.

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Restaurants

JOSÉ ZAMBRANO

La Cocina Discreta (see p58).

Open 9.30am-12.30am Tue-Sat; 9.30am-5pm Sun. Main courses $.

Lunch AR$85. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H2. V Other location Cabrera 3877, Palermo (4863 4242).

Bio The first organic restaurant in Buenos Aires, Bio’s been serving vegetarian, vegan and raw food dishes to a loyal clientele for over decade. And while raw or vegan options might sound cold and clinical to some, Bio infuses plenty of warmth and spices into its plates, with creative combos like curried rice and almond soup and classics with a twist, like quinoa risotto and cashew nut cheese pizza. In order to spread the organic love, Bio also offers cooking classes and sell organic goodies like fig coffee and wine in-store (look out for an online store in the future). Plenty more have jumped on the organic food trend, but Bio is the real deal.

Humboldt 2192, y Guatemala (4774 3880/www.biorestaurant.com). Bus 39, 60. Open 10am-midnight daily. Main Courses AR$80-90. Lunch AR$85.

Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H3. V Buenos Aires Verde It ain’t easy being green – or vegetarian – in BA, but Buenos Aires Verde pulls off both with aplomb. The hippie aesthetic of paintbox-bright decor belies a surprisingly sophisticated and varied menu. Salads with fresh dressings and vegan mayonnaise are a standout, as are the dozens of smoothies, juices and elixirs available. For mains, a row of flavourful seaweed and seed rolls comes wrapped around cashew cheese, mushrooms, bean sprouts and goji berries, while the polenta with tomato sauce and mushroom ragout is a hearty, filling option for a cold day. Walls are also lined with vegetarian, vegan and raw food goodies for sale, including baked goods, dried beans and

60 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014

home-made almond milk.

Gorriti 5657, entre Fitz Roy y Bonpland (4775 9594/www.bsasverde. com). Bus 39, 140, 168. Open 9am-12.30am Mon-Sat. Main courses $. Lunch AR$48. No credit cards.

Map H2. !V

Las Cañitas AMERICAN

Kansas Basking in the presence of the nearby, splendid Hipódromo de Palermo racetrack, Kansas has its own grand entrance and glamorous appeal. Waits can easily top an hour any day of the week, and the bar is often so packed there may not even be a place to enjoy a caipikiwi while your table opens up.

Once seated however, summon your appetite, roll up your sleeves and get ready to dig in to a hearty American meal with all the trimmings. The barbecue ribs are finger-lickin’ good,

and a massive and messy affair just the way they should be. Nothing is more American than a burger, and Kansas does both a classic and cheeseburger to perfection. If there’s still room, try the chocolate fudge brownie; and if there isn’t, wriggle that top button loose and have dessert anyway.

Avenida del Libertador 4625, entre Benjamín Matienzo y Jorge Newbery (4776 4100/www.kansasgrillandbar. com.ar). Bus 64. Open 11.45ammidnight Sun-Thur; 11.45am-1.30am Fri; 11.45am-2am Sat. Main courses $$$. Credit AmEx, DC, MC, V. A ITALIAN

Doppio Zero This chic Las Cañitas favourite has avoided all the usual pitfalls of BA Italian food – no rubbery pasta or bland sauces here, instead it’s an innovative and sophisticated take on a hackneyed cuisine. Owner and sommelier Mariano Akman knows his

Restaurants Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014 61

Restaurants

ALLIE LAZAR

grapes, and will ensure your culinary journey is perfectly paired with Argentinian vintages. White tablecloths, scrawled chalkboards and strategically placed wine bottles create a simple canvas for a menu that is anything but. At AR$175, the seven-course tasting menu is excellent value, but if you’re going à la carte, the chicken liver pâté is the smoothest of starters, laced with chunks of port-infused figs, all served on a crispy biscuit base. Made-from-scratch pasta, risotto, fresh fish of the day or ossobuco follow, while the figs make a welcome return come dessert, in the semifreddo with honey and hazelnuts.

Soldado de la Independencia 1238, entre Teodoro García y Avenida Federico Lacroze (4899 0162). Bus 15, 39, 42, 55, 59, 60, 64, 118.. Open 8.30pm-midnight Tue-Fri; from 12.30pm Sat. Main courses $$.

Credit AmEx, MC, V.

ITALIAN

Salgado Alimentos ‘Panza llena, corazón contento’ (full belly, happy heart) is the slogan of this Italian neighbourhood gem, and night after night satisfied customers roll out of here with a pasta-sauce smile. With its fluorescent lighting, diner-style decor and fresh pasta counter, this restaurant is more substance over style – but oh, what substance! The chicken cannelloni in a creamy mustard sauce and raviolis de jamón crudo are simply divine. Reasonable prices mean there’s room in the budget for dessert, with panza-padding portions of cheesecake, chocotorta and tiramisu.

Juan Ramírez de Velazco 401, y Aráoz, Villa Crespo (4854 1336/www. salgadoalimentos.com.ar). Subte B, Malabia/bus 24, 106, 109, 110, 124, 141, 168. Open 9am-8pm Mon; 9am-midnight Tue-Sat. Main courses $. Lunch AR$70. No credit cards.

Map G1. !H

Once KOREAN

Bi Won Unimposing to the point of being invisible, this Korean restaurant is set in a neighbourhood better known for its fabric wholesalers than for fabulous dining experiences. Don’t be put off by the ice-cream freezers that greet you as you enter, or the chintzy wallpaper and dark-wood panelling: the place might have had a style bypass, but a glance at the customers should reassure you that the food here is authentic. The mandu guk is a huge bowl of broth with meat and vegetable-filled dumplings, while the sengson chigue is a spicy seafood stew made to share. If you like your eating experiences interactive, go for the bul gogui, sweet-tasting macerated meat with a tabletop grill for DIY cooking, plus a host of side dishes including pickled vegetables, sweetcorn and anchovies.

Junín 548, entre Lavalle y Tucumán, Once (4372 1146). Subte B, Pasteur or D, Facultad de Medicina/bus 6, 60, 75, 95, 99, 101, 132, 140, 146, 150, 180, 194. Open 12.30-3pm, 7.30pmmidnight Mon-Fri; 7.30pm-midnight Sat. Main courses $$$. No credit cards. Map D4.

SPANISH

Villa Crespo and Almagro ARMENIAN

!Sarkis Good things come to those who wait, and you’re guaranteed good things – and a wait – at perennially popular Sarkis, repeatedly cited as one of BA’s best spots for Middle Eastern cuisine.

Despite the barely translated menu, Sarkis has drummed up such a following that waits can easily top an hour (fortunately, there are plenty of Villa Crespo and Palermo bars nearby to duck into for a drink while your table opens up). Don’t be afraid to ask the staff for recommendations if you’ve no familiarity with the names of the menu’s Middle Eastern plates –

with food this good, you’re unlikely to get a dud. The decor leaves much to be desired, but something keeps pulling the punters back; Time Out’s putting its cash on the food. Arab-style empanadas, houmous, shish kebab, falafel, kofta, tasty salads and excellent desserts arrive in generous portions; and while the prices might no longer be as rock bottom as they once were, Sarkis definitely still represents good value for money.

Thames 1101, y Jufré, Villa Crespo (4772 4911). Bus 34, 55, 108, 127 140, 151, 166, 168. Open noon-3pm, 8pm-1am daily. Main courses $$$.

No credit cards. Map G2. !V

New in town Aramburu Bis

The second instalment from Gonzalo Aramburu (of the great Aramburu restaurant, see p40), Bis sets the tone for a new kind of simple yet contemporary Argentinian bistro. The menu focuses on local seasonal ingredients featuring daily specials, sandwiches and inventive house favorites (like tartar, ribeye, and arroz con leche), while the wine list is carefully curated by Argentina’s top sommelier, Agustina de Alba.

Argentinian products and kitchen equipment fill the bright open space, with pinguino pitchers, spices, bottles of olive oil, fresh baked breads, aperitivo bottles, and shelves stacked with local wines.

Humberto 1˚ 1207, y Salta (4304 5697/www.aramburubis.com). Subte C, San Juan/bus 60, 168. Open 12.30-11.30pm Mon-Sat. Main courses $$.

No credit cards. Map B3.

62 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014

!La Esperanza de los Ascurra This Spanish-style tapas bar is as poetic as it sounds. Paintings (some by co-owner Martín Beraldi) hang on a washing line and are for sale; while recycled tables and colourful chairs, each decorated by a different artist, give the place a bohemian vibe. After a shopping stint at the nearby Villa Crespo outlets, duck in for a miniature cañita (draft beer) and tapas at the long bar, or make a meal of it with two-for-one Cinzano-based cocktails and raciones to share. We love the gambas al ajillo (garlic prawns), boquerones (whitebait) and jamón serrano (the real deal, imported from Spain). An Illy coffee and flan make for the perfect cap to any meal, large or small. The Palermo Hollywood branch gives us plenty of esperanza (hope) that tapas are here to stay in BA. Aguirre 526, entre Malabia y Scalabrini Ortiz, Villa Crespo (2058 8313/www. esperanzaascurra.com.ar). Subte B, Malabia/bus 15, 24, 55, 110, 141, 168.

Open 12.30-3.30pm, 6.30pm-midnight Tue-Sat. Main courses $. Lunch AR$58 Credit V. Map G1. !

Other location Fitz Roy 1818, Palermo (3533 7122).

VENEZUELAN

Arepera The clue’s in the name, kids. Arepera is your cheap and cheerful one-stop

Restaurants Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014 63

Restaurants

to love the place. Somehow, we don’t think Soriano will need any of those lucky figurines.

Ciudad de la Paz 353, y Jorge Newbery, Colegiales (4554 0802/www.astorbistro. com). Bus 39, 60, 168. Open 8.30pm-1am Mon-Sat. Main courses $$. Credit AmEx, DC, MC, V. Pura Tierra As its name – ‘pure earth’ – suggests, the focus here is on fresh produce and clever use of the restaurant’s adobe-mud oven to create the perfect balance of colour, taste and texture.

The menu dares to mix sweet and savoury in unusual combinations– mollejas (sweetbreads) are drizzled with molasses and fennel seeds, and for dessert there’s candied squash with turmeric cream, white chocolate, vanilla ice-cream and arrope (Spanish grape syrup). Indecisive diners can opt for an eight course tasting menu to try a bit of everything – and every animal, with rabbit, lamb and pork all on the roster. Two tables on the pavement outside are perfect for an intimate dinner, but most people prefer the cosy bare-brick interior. The sweet-toothed will do well to remember that this doubles as one of the city’s finest pastelerías: Kao. 3 de Febrero 1167, entre Avenida Federico Lacroze y Teodoro García, Belgrano (4899 2007/www.puratierra. com.ar). Subte D, Olleros/bus 63, 194.

Open 8pm-12.30am Mon-Sat. Main courses $$$$. Set taster menu AR$160; AR$420 with drinks. Credit AmEx, DC, MC, V.

Artemisia (see 56).

shop for tasty Venezuelan arepas.

Think of the arepa as Latin America’s answer to the hamburger: a round, cornmeal-based patty stuffed to the crusts with all manner ARGENTINIAN – MODERN of fabulous fillings. Anything with !Astor – Manduque Porteño avocado, marinated chicken, With its wooden tables, soft lighting caramelised onion and plantain hits and open kitchen, this modern the hotspot, best washed down with Colegiales bistro might at first seem one of the pitchers of fresh juices, like it’s been plucked from trendy like passionfruit, mango, Shoreditch or Brooklyn. But pineapple or a look a little closer and bittersweet lemon and you’ll discover plenty of sugar cane juice. local flavour: cookbooks DINING IN Estado de Israel 4316, y When you don’t want by Argentinian chefs line Pringles, Almagro (mobile to go out, order from the shelves underneath 15 6463 1229). Bus 19, www.buenosairesdeliv- the kitchen counter, while 92. Open 7pm-midnight mini figurines of pagan ery.com.ar.

Tue-Thur, Sun; 8pm-1am saint Gauchito Gil hide Fri, Sat. Main courses $. No behind the rack of olive oils for good luck. Argentinian abstract art credit cards. Map F2. !

Belgrano and Colegiales

TOP TIP!

64 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014

brings colour to the white walls and, of course, there’s the name: Astor, as in Piazzolla the tango king, is a nod to the BA of yesteryear, while manduque porteño translates as ‘BA grub’. The contemporary Argentinian menu changes weekly according to what’s fresh at the market, but expect it to be playful as chef Antonio Soriano is a fan of conceptual cuisine (on Time Out’s visit, the tasting menu was inspired by the arrival of spring). A nice touch is the home-made bread topped with crystallised salt flakes and served in brown paper bags, as is the maté gourd and kettle brought to every table as an appetizer, filled not with the bitter green leaves, but instead a refreshing cocktail. Smiley staff and surprisingly reasonable prices are even more reason

!Sucre If you can swing a ringside seat at dramatic, high-ceilinged Sucre, preferably at a high table beside the wide open kitchen, then do. The cuisine is international – Italian, Japanese, Spanish and Peruvian, among others – meaning there are no limits on what the chefs can produce. Cocktails are just as innovative: take the Espuma Marina for instance, a drink that lives up to its name with rum, Aperol, grapefruit, lime, eggwhite and seawater. The exemplary staff is only too happy to talk you through the menu and select a bottle of wine from one of the 350 options. The wonderful parrilla meats are cooked with a local firewood, giving them a special, smoky taste. There’s also a fine fish selection, and an extensive tapas and dessert menu to start off or finish a meal.

Sucre 676, entre Avenida Figueroa Alcorta y Castañeda, Belgrano (4782 9082/www.sucrerestaurant.com.ar). Bus 28, 130, 152. Open noon-4pm, 8pm-1am daily. Main courses $$$.

Lunch AR$170. Credit AmEx, MC, V. A CHINESE

Hong Kong Style Arguably the best spot for those of the Chinese food persuasion in Barrio Chino, if not all of Buenos Aires, Chef Lui Cheuk Hung and his wife Lily preside over this Chinatown hotspot serving dim sum and Cantonese favourites. Service may be slow, but all the food is ultra fresh and made to order,

Restaurants Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014 65

Restaurants Dadá (see p28).

ensuring customers leave with an extra happy Chinese-full belly. Go with a large group to try a bit of everything: dumplings, sweet and sour soup, whole fish in oyster sauce and salt and pepper shrimps are all must orders.

Montañeses 2149, entre Mendoza y Juramento, Belgrano (4786 3456). Bus 44, 55, 60. Open from 8pm Mon-Thur; noon-3pm, from 8pm Fri-Sun. Main courses $$. No credit cards.

FRENCH

Pipí Cucú Fresh flower petals strewn across crisp white linen tablecloths, oversized vintage artwork and intimate corner tables make this French-style restaurant a romantic spot for couples on a date night. Delicate starters include warm, gooey Camembert or tender sweetbreads with tomato confit and rocket, but for a heartier meal, go for the delicious pork bondiola with honey cane and cinnamon, or the creamy almond and chicken curry. Rather skip dinner and just do drinks and dessert? Indulge in the pistachio crème brûlée which is delicious. Then prop up the bar and make friends with the bartender, who will happily craft you a cocktail not found on the menu.

Ciudad de la Paz 557, entre Olleros y Maure, Belgrano (4551 9314). Subte D, Olleros/bus 28, 42, 59, 152, 160. Open 12.30pm-1am Mon-Sat. Main courses $$$. Lunch AR$135. No credit cards.

PERUVIAN

Contigo Perú Had enough steak already? Then let the technicolour-waistcoated waiters at this cool cantina bring you a short, sharp citric shock in the shape of a plate of ceviche and a brace of pisco sours. The extensive menu has every variety of ceviche, along with a variety of seafood mains and traditional Peruvian desserts like suspiro limeño and passionfruit mousse. Crowded with diners looking to transport themselves to Cuzco, Contigo Perú represents global cuisine at its most splendidly parochial. Great fun – and cheap.

Echeverría 1627, y Montañeses, Belgrano (4780 3960/www.contigoperu.com.ar). Bus 64, 107, 113, 114, 118, 130. Open noon-4pm, 8pmmidnight Mon-Sat. Main courses $.

No credit cards.

SOUTH-EAST ASIAN

Lotus Neo Thai Fans of Thai cuisine will find all their favourites here, but with the added bonus of slurping their tom kha soup under the visage of psychedelic painted flowers climbing the walls. Or opt for a table in the candlelit terrace to eat amid real plants, flowers and bamboo. Consider the elegant Lotus cocktail as a starting point – a mix of vodka and passionfruit, sugar and ice; then go for the popular kaeng pehd ped

66 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014

yang – roasted duck and pineapple in a red curry sauce. Thai fans will really rejoice when they see that Lotus Neo Thai also offers delivery and the occasional cooking class.

Arribeños 2265, entre Olazábal y Mendoza, Belgrano (4783 7993/www. restaurantelotus.com.ar). Bus 15, 29, 55, 60, 64, 118, 130. Open 12.30-3.30pm Tue-Sun; from 8.30pm daily. Main courses $$$$. Lunch AR$108. Credit AmEx, V. V

to the crisp and polite service, this is a classy restaurant, well worth the extra taxi cost from the city centre.

11 de Septiembre 4152, e Irlanda, Núñez (4703 5568). Bus 28, 29, 117, 130. Open 9am-8pm Tue-Sun. Main courses $$. Credit AmEx, MC, V.

Urondo Bar Named after Francisco ‘Paco’ Urondo, a radical poet who became one of Argentina’s ‘disappeared’, this off-the-beaten-track spot is run by his grandson Javier and nephew Sebastián. The former mans the ARGENTINIAN – MODERN kitchen, turning out dishes that NEW Oporto Almacén fuse Argentinian and intense A beautiful corner spot South-east Asian with cutting-edge interior influences. Start with the design and over 500 copetín, a mixed platter READ ON wines at store prices of cheeses, meat and Allie Lazar’s blog makes recently-opened (pickupthefork.com) is vegetables. Mains Oporto Almacén a lovely the go to read for new include dishes like ossobuco or grilled lamb spot for a lazy afternoon restaurants, bars and cafés. served with lentils, fennel lunch, far away from and mint. Sebastián handles bustling downtown Buenos the front of house and turns out Aires. Prices are sufficiently one of the best wine lists Time Out has affordable to tempt customers to pick seen in Buenos Aires. generously from the menu: Time Out shared a chicken salad with a poached Beauchef 1204, y Estrada, Parque Chacabuco (4922 9671/www. egg on a bed of watercress and a urondobar.com.ar). Subte E, Moreno/ selection of tapas including jamón bus 53, 56, 86, 88, 91, 96, 97, 126, serrano, a plate of cheeses and a home-made pâté, all washed down with 134, 135, 180, 195. Open from 8pm Tue-Sat. Main courses $$. No several glasses of local sauvignon credit cards. blanc. From the spotless open kitchen

Further afield

TOP TIP!

Restaurants Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014 67

Restaurants

Food and Drink index Cafés Bar Británico Bar Plaza Dorrego Bartola La Biela Birkin Coffee Bar Boulangerie Cocu Café Crespín Café Tortoni Clásica y Moderna Coco Marie La Crespo Decata El Federal Florencio Full City Coffee House El Gato Negro Grand Café In Bocca al Luppo Lattente Le Pain Quotidien Malvón Mark’s Deli & Coffee House Möoi Ninina Bakery Oui Oui Pani Tatan Tea Connection Las Violetas Voltaire

23 23 24 23 26 24 26 23 23 24 26 24 23 23 24 23 23 24 25 25 26 25 26 25 25 24 26 24 26 26

Restaurants American

Burger Joint Dean & Dennys DOGG Kansas Muu Lechería Perez-H

Argentinian- traditional La Brigada Las Cabras La Cabrera Club del Progreso Cumaná El Desnivel Don Julio La Dorita Gran Parrilla del Plata Lo de Jesus Manolo Minga Miramar Miranda El Obrero Pan y Arte Perón Perón La Pescadorita El Preferido de Palermo

Argentinian – modern

Aldo’s Vinoteca y Restorán Aramburu Aramburu Bis Astor - Manduque Porteno El Baqueano Café Rivas Casa Cruz Caseros Crizia Dadá Elena Gran Bar Danzón Le Grill Hernán Gipponi Restaurante i Central Market

44 44 44 60 44 44 32 45 45 28 42 32 45 45 32 45 32 45 38 46 38 40 46 46 46 32 40 62 64 34 34 46 34 46 28 42 42 40 46 40

Arepera (see p64).

Janio Leopoldo Local El Mercado Moreneta de Montserrat Museo Evita Restaurante NC Freud & Fahler Oporto Almacén La Panadería de Pablo Paraje Arévalo Las Pizarras La Popular Pura Tierra El Refuerzo Sucre Tarquino Tegui Tomo I Urondo Bar

Armenian Sarkis

Brazilian

Boteco do Brasil

British Chipper

Chinese

Chifa Man San Hong Kong Style

Closed-door restaurants Casa Coupage Casa Felix Casa Saltshaker La Cocina Discreta Cocina Sunae I Latina Jueves a la Mesa NOLA

68 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014

46 48 48 40 28 48 48 66 34 48 48 34 64 36 64 42 48 28 66

Ocho Once Paladar Treintasillas

Eclectic

Azema Exotic Bistró Fifi Almacen Marathika El Perlado Quimbombó

French

A Nos Amours L’Atelier de Celine Brasserie Petanque Pipí Cucú Sirop Folie

Indian

Tandoor 62 50 50 36 64 58 58 58 58 58 59 59 59

Italian

Il Ballo Del Mattone El Cuartito Cucina Paradiso Doppio Zero Filo Forneria Guido Restaurant Guido’s Bar Il Matterello Piola Salgado Alimentos Siamo nel Forno

Japanese

Fukuro Noodle Bar Osaka Tenkuu Sushi Tô Wasabi’s

59 59

59

50 50 50 30 52 52 36 36 66 44 44

Korean Bi Won

Mexican

CBC – Californian Burrito Co. La Fábrica del Taco

Peruvian

Bardot Chan Chan Chira Contigo Perú Coya M Bar Mullu Olaya Páru Rawa Sipan

Scandinavian Olsen

52 30 52 60 30 52 52 52 38 44 62 54 34 42 54 54 54

South-east Asian Green Bamboo Lotus Neo Thai Sudestada

Spanish

Café San Juan La Esperanza de los Ascurra Oviedo

Vegetarian

Arevalito Artemisia Bio Buenos Aires Verde Hierbabuena

Venezuelan Arepera

62 54 54 55 30 55 66 30 55 30 55 55 32 55 55 56 66 56 36 62 44 56 56 60 60 36 64

Nightlife

Photograph: Victoria Brown

Bars

70

Clubs

80

Nightlife index

90

JOSÉ ZAMBRANO

Bars

Many Italian aperitifs can be found in bars all over BA.

With Italian aperitifs the reigning liquor in BA, Emily Jensen uncorks the mysteries in these pretty, colourful bottles.

V

odka, gin, tequila and rum are all fine and good – either together in a Long Island Iced Tea or on their own – but these days, Buenos Aires bars are making room for a different kind of liquor: aperitivos italianos.

Argentina loves to tap into its Italian heritage, and what better time to do so than at the cocktail hour? Classic Italian aperitifs like vermouth have typically been associated with old men and Sunday afternoons – with the exception of fernet, which when mixed with Coca-Cola is consumed by Argentinians of any age, any time, anywhere. But what’s old is new again, and a trendy crop of bars, food tours and nifty marketing have given some dusty Italian liquors a fresh image.

THE HISTORY An aperitif is any alcohol traditionally served before a meal. Typically they are herb-based and bitter to stimulate the appetite – their counterpart, the digestif, comes after a meal and is usually sweeter.

The origins of herb-based liquors may go as far back as ancient Greece, but today’s aperitif hour originated in the early 1800s when fashionable cafés in Milan, Rome and Turin began to serve vermouth with soda water before a meal. During this time many of today’s big brands, like Cinzano, Campari and Fernet Branca, were founded and their formulas haven’t changed much since. The aperitif hour became popular across the country and when Italian immigrants began turning up in

Bars are making room for a different kind of liquor: aperitivos italianos.

70 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014

THE FORMULA So what exactly are these tasty elixirs made of? Vermouth is fortified wine dressed up with various aromatics and botanicals, while many brands, like Cinzano and Gancia, offer sweet and dry versions. Punt e Mes is another Italian vermouth brand, albeit one that’s harder to find; its bitter flavour and deep colour is slightly reminiscent of Campari. Said Campari gets its signature red from a secret mix of plants, herbs and fruits like bitter orange and rhubarb.

Aperol is like Campari’s little sister, with a similar base of bitter orange, but with a lower alcohol content, less bitterness and a brighter orange colour. You may have spotted the curious artichoke on Cynar’s bottle, but it isn’t just there for kitsch decoration – Cynar really is made from artichokes, among other plants.

And if you had to detect the flavours in inky Fernet Branca (also marketed as a digestif), would you ever guess spices like myrrh, saffron, chamomile and galangal?

WHERE TO DRINK Traditionalists need look no further than Celta Bar (Sarmiento 1701, 4371 7338, www.barcelta.com.ar), where every hour is aperitif hour. At this authentic, no-frills and very Argentinian joint, vermouth- and Campari-based drinks are available around the clock, and are best taken with a salty picada of meat, cheese, olives and bread. To transport yourself to Italy, head to Il Ballo del Mattone (see p52) or one of its many offspring along calle Gorriti.

Sip on an Aperol Spritz or a Campari Soda before a plate of pasta, and imagine yourself as a fashionable

member of Milan high society. For a newer take on the classics, head to Verne Club (see p78), where master mixer Fede Cuco serves up many creative cocktails featuring aperitifs, and is not afraid to pull out a blow torch to finish them off. If you’d prefer not to have to think about where you’re going, sign up for an Aperitour with the Aussie-Argentinian team at Fuudis (fuudis.com), and let your guide lead you around their pick of the city’s best bars featuring aperitifs. For a taste of Fernet Branca and Coca-Cola, head to any Argentinian social gathering and it’s likely you’ll be offered it without even having to ask.

DIY Watching the pros work their magic makes for a fun night out, but aperitifs’ complex flavour and low alcohol content means there’s no need for hi-tech cocktail shakers, strainers or elaborate syrups to enhance (or cover up) the taste. Just ice and a pair of highballs are all the hardware you need to make a delicious drink using aperitivos (or you could always do like the locals and use the sawn-off bottom of an empty coke bottle when you’re short on glasses). Even better, many aperitifs are far cheaper than other liquors. A bottle of vodka (a drinkable one at least) could easily set you back AR$100, but a ruby-red Cinzano Rosso is under AR$50. See below for our recommended recipes.

Aperitif recipes NICOLÁS AMENDOLA

Drinking, Italian style

Argentina in droves in the mid1800s, they brought their drinking habits with them. If you’re dying to know the whole story, pick up a copy of Cinzano. Un manual para la hora del aperitivo, published in December of 2013.

Not all aperitifs are European imports though; as the craze grew, Argentina began to concoct its own brands. Hesperidina was the first recipe created in Argentina, though the orange-herbal brew was actually invented by an American immigrant.

Pineral was born out of the popularity of Fernet Branca, and could be called the ‘poor man’s fernet’, but nonetheless has a following all of its own. And the self-titled ‘aperitif of the people’ is Amargo Obrero, created in Rosario in 1887, to contrast with the sweeter drinks consumed by the bourgeois class at the time, hence the name ‘bitter worker’.

The Italian heritage brands still dominate the scene however, and since the inauguration of a Campari production plant within its borders in 2012, Argentina has had access to all the aperitivos it’ll ever need.

Americano - 1 part Campari - 1 part sweet vermouth, such as Cinzano Rosso - 1 part soda water Fill a tumbler with ice and add the Campari and vermouth. Top with soda water and garnish with a slice of orange.

Cynar con pomelo - 2 parts Cynar - 3 parts grapefruit juice, or grapefruitflavoured cardobanted drink In a highball glass, add ice and fill glass about a third of the way with Cynar. Top up with grapefruit juice and garnish with a slice of grapefruit.

The basics

Bars

The fashion for aromatic perfumed cocktails is spreading like juicy wildfire across the bars of Buenos Aires. New haunt Victoria Brown (see p76) and flower shop-cum-bar Florería Atlántico (see p72) are top of the list if you are looking for an interesting combination of boozy treats. If you prefer a cold pint, local breweries Antares (see p76) and Cervecería Nacional (see p78) offer a fine selection of the best homegrown brews. But even a good IPA can’t unthrone vino tinto as Argentina’s most popular alcoholic drink, and there are a number of wine bars where you can sample a classic malbec and more (see p74). But no matter your poison, BA has it covered.

HOW TO USE THE LISTINGS This section presents our selection of the city’s best bars. ! denotes a place we particularly recommend.

NEW means the bar has opened in the last six months or so.

D signals free Wi-Fi for customers.

The Centre BASA Bar Created by the discerning owners of Gran Bar Danzón (see p42), this basement resto-bar is all about moody lighting, comfy sofas and damn fine cocktails. The diverse 25-strong cocktail list, compiled by head barman Ludovico De Biaggi, is guaranteed to hold your attention for the night. Serious drinkers will flock to a stool for a closer look at the mixology. Happy hour, from 7pm to 9pm, is the perfect time to sample a classic cocktail rarely seen on BA menus: the Moscow Mule, mixed with house-made ginger beer. In addition to all the classics there are quirky drinks like the Penicillin, designed to be drunk straight from the bottle wrapped in a paper bag, and stellar bar grub.

Basavilbaso 1328, entre Avenida del Libertador y Juncal (4893 9444/www. basabar.com.ar). Bus 100, 101, 108, 152, 195. Open noon-3.30pm, from 6.30pm Mon-Fri; from 8pm Sat. Credit MC, V. Map D6. D La Cigale For a touch of Paris in South America, this is a good place to get the night started with the after-work crowd in downtown BA. Happy hour from 6pm to 10pm every day with two-for-one on selected cocktails is a major bonus, but the big deal is the live music. Tuesday nights – known as Minelek – have electronic music spinning over the chatter. If you like a bit of competition with your cocktail, a monthly Monday night English-language pub quiz is hosted (see www.buenosairespubquiz. com for information).

25 de Mayo 597, y Tucumán, Microcentro (4893 2332/www. lacigalebar.blogspot.com). Subte B, Florida/bus 5, 22, 28, 152, 195. Open noon-4pm, from 6pm Mon-Fri; from 9.30pm Sat. Credit V. Map C5. D 72 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014

! Florería Atlántico And the award for BA’s most original resto-bar goes to… Florería Atlántico, a florist, wine shop and speakeasy rolled into one. Walk in and smell the roses, then head downstairs to the narrow, romantically lit space. Almost everything on the menu is cooked on the vintage 1942 parrilla, imparting that delicious charcoal flavour so typical of Argentina. Inspired by Buenos Aires’s rustic port bars of the 1900s and their immigrant clientele, the drinks menu, devised by co-owner Tato Giovannoni, is divided into countries.

Under ‘Poland’ is the signature Bocharov: Belvedere vodka, rosehip, orange juice and tabasco. Tato’s beautiful wall sketches of mythical sea monsters contrast with sleek, minimalist furniture, making this one of Time Out’s top spots.

Arroyo 872, y Suipacha, Retiro (4313 6093/www.floreriaatlantico.com.ar).

Bus 39, 93, 152. Open 7.30pm-1.30am Mon-Wed; 7pm-2.30am Thur; 7pm-3.30am Fri; 8pm-3.30am Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D6.

San Telmo Doppelgänger ‘This is not for everyone’, Doppelganger’s wall proudly proclaims there’s no point beating around the bush about it – there’s no beer here, no soft drinks, and the only wine you’ll find has been artfully mixed with a variety of spirits. Instead, you’ll find over 99 cocktails made from both classic and exotic liquors. Never tried the saffron-infused Strega? Opt for the Pie-O-My – cardamom flavoured vodka, saké, Strega, orange bitters and lemon peel. As you imbibe, you can graze on tapas or tuck in to a full meal.

Or, ask for a Humpty Dumpty and the expert bartenders will fix up a cocktail based on your flavour and liquor preferences.

Juan de Garay 500, y Bolívar (4300 0201/www.doppelganger.com.ar).

Subte C, San Juan/bus 159, 168, 195.

Open 7pm-2am Tue-Fri; from 8pm Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map B4. D Gibraltar This authentic British pub is as much of a favourite with the after-officethree-pints-and-home-to-the-wife crowd as with the multitude of drink-till-youdrop expats and backpackers. It serves up well-priced beer in pint glasses and an exhaustive collection of whiskies.

Try the beef and ale pie or the heavenly fish and chips, and on weekends you’ll have to loosen a belt notch for a Full English Breakfast. Pool hustlers head to the back room for a cue, while smokers make a beeline for the outside patio. The pub is packed on weekends, when it gets louder and louder until, after midnight, it turns into a standing-room-only, noisy, flirtatious little hotspot. Happy hour is from 6pm to 10pm daily.

Perú 895, y Estados Unidos (4362 5310). Bus 9, 70, 86. Open noon-3am Mon-Thur; noon-4am Fri-Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map B4. D

Bars

Krakow Krakow’s reasonable prices and buena onda help bring many foreign visitors to its doors, along with a steady stream of locals. Befitting its Polish theme, Krakow’s menu boasts an impressive range of beers and vodkas, and if your favourite cocktail isn’t listed, the friendly staff will happily make it for you. Watch sports on the big screen, play Jenga or Nintendo and sample hearty European dishes like Polish sausage. You’ll have to turn up early if you want to bag one of the comfy sofas, but think twice before attempting a drinking contest with vodka-enthusiast co-owner Tadeusz.

Venezuela 474, entre Defensa y Bolívar.

(4342 3916/www.krakow-cafe.com.ar).

Subte E, Belgrano/bus 2, 29, 45, 143, 152, 159, 195. Open 6pm-3am Sun-Thur; 6pm-5am Fri, Sat Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map B4. D

La Poesía Having been closed since the late 1980s, romantic La Poesía opened again in 2008 under the deft management of the crew from nearby El Federal (see p23). This cosy, warmly-lit café-bar gathers an eclectic clutch of San Telmo regulars and tourists who visit for a coffee and a chat, for the extensive menu of picadas and mains and for the generally pleasant ambience.

Chile 502, y Bolívar (4300 7340/www. cafelapoesia.com.ar). Bus 29, 45, 86.

Open 8am-1am Mon-Thur, Sun; 8am-4am Fri, Sat. No credit cards.

Map B4. D La Puerta Roja La Puerta Roja (‘the red door’, which is all that marks the spot) is a pleasure: a classic, no-nonsense bar. The prices are set to attract the youngsters, backpackers and resident foreigners who pack the place out till late. The space is large, the music eclectic, the decor simple and there isn’t a cocktail umbrella in sight. Happy hour on certain spirits and microbrewery beers – try the Kingston stout – is from 6pm to 10pm, and there’s a pool table with plenty of space to swing a cue. The menu features cheap, tasty and filling food such as nachos, hamburgers and spicy chicken wings.

Chacabuco 733, entre Chile y Avenida Independencia (4362 5649/www. lapuertaroja.com.ar). Subte E, Independencia/bus 24. Open 5pm-4am daily. No credit cards. Map B4. D Rubik Tucked away on calle Bolívar in an area more known for smoky parrillas and dusty cafés, Rubik bar has done a fair job attracting a mix of local hipsters and foreigners from the nearby hostels.

They come for the pool table, the live footy matches and most of all, for the convivial and friendly atmosphere. A menu featuring pints at AR$30 and American-style comfort food like tacos,

nachos, chips and mini-burgers (sliders) ensure a busy bar area. There are no bells and whistles here, this is just a fun, back-to-basics pub.

Bolívar 825, y Avenida Independencia (www.rubikba.com). Bus 61, 74, 86.

Open 5pm-5am Mon-Fri; 8pm-5am Sat. No credit cards. Map B4.

Top Wine Bars

Será de Dios When you need a direct line to the Holy Spirit, look no further than Será de Dios (Will of God). Perhaps it’s the stained-glass windows or the wall of bottles backlit by fairy lights that’s like an incandescent, boozy shrine, but this place makes you want to seek solace in hard liquor. Two-for-one cocktails until 10pm makes that an easy enough task, and hearty bar grub is a godsend when stamina starts to run low. The Stones and Stereophonics are the soundtrack to a night of shooting pool or lounging about on devilishly red couches.

México 355, entre Defensa y Balcarce (4331 1086/www.facebook.com/ seradediosbar). Bus 29, 86, 93, 152.

Open from 6pm Tue-Fri; from 9pm Sat. No credit cards. Map B5. D

Pain et Vin The name says it all: there’s bread, and there’s wine, what more do you need to know? The name may be French, but the wines are all Argentinian, with top-quality bottles from a variety of regions, including Bodega del Desierto from the lesser-known La Pampa province.

The bread is to die for – crusty baguettes, olive loaves and rustic country bread are all baked in-house.

Although this bar closes rather early at 9pm, fantastic sandwiches, quality coffee, freshly-baked croissants and a selection of artisanal beer make this place a winner in every category.

Gorriti 5132 (4832 5654)

Puerto Madero The Library Lounge One of the city’s hands-down sexiest bars, the Library Lounge at Faena Hotel Buenos Aires (see p152) effortlessly meshes the classic (crystal chandeliers, leather sofas) and postmodern (stuffed antelope heads).

Befitting the plush setting, cocktails feature the likes of champagne and Grey Goose vodka, and during the afternoon there’s English High Tea. Faena Hotel Buenos Aires, Martha Salotti 445, Dique 2, Madero Este (4010 9000/www.faenaexperience.com).

Bus 2, 111, 129. Open 10am-2am Sun-Mon; 10am-4am Fri, Sat. Credit AmEx, DC, MC, V. Map B5. D

Recoleta

New in Town Leitmotiv

What more could you want in a bar than a bunch of hot hipster chicks in retro dresses carrying around hand-held blow torches to light unique hand-crafted drinks? Head up to the rooftop bar, tell the bartender what you want, and have her make you a refreshing concoction, like the #889: Principe de los apóstoles gin (locally-made Argentinian gin), Hesperidina, lime juice, tonic, orange oil and rosemary smoke. Rock, funk and soul is the musical choice for Tuesday nights, which also feature live acts.

Cabrera 5696, y Bonpland (4777 0743). Bus 39, 93, 108, 111. Open from 8pm Tue–Sat. Credit V. Map H2.

74 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014

!Milión Almost certainly the most beautiful, graceful bar in Buenos Aires, Milión is 13 years into its reign and still outshining the competition. From your very first sight of the place, the sense of elegance and occasion is dazzling.

Happy Hour from 6pm to 9pm is the perfect way to end a hard day’s work on a glamorous note. Elegance is easy on Saturday mornings if you take advantage of new brunch offerings.

Paraná 1048, entre Marcelo T de Alvear y Avenida Santa Fe (4815 9925/www.milion.com.ar). Bus 101, 150. Open 10pm-2am Mon-Wed; 10pm-3am Thur; 10pm-4am Fri, Sat; 8.30pm-2am Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D5. D Pony Line Bar Inspired by Polo, the sport of kings, and kitted out in brown leather and riding motifs, the Pony Line Bar feels classy rather than kitsch. Prop yourself up at the bar and choose from

Wine is reason enough to visit Argentina, and BA has some fantastic wine bars. For an organised wine tasting, book a degustación with Anuva Wines (see p122).

Bar du Marché Neighbouring wine store Siete Spirits (see p109) provides the 50 plus wines available at Bar du Marché, which serves the elixir by the glass, in half-litre and three quarters of a litre measures by the bottle, allowing you to try multiple wines in one night without falling off your chair. There are extensive dining options and a sushi bar upstairs, but the best way to appreciate Bar du Marché’s Parisian bistro atmosphere is with the wine and cheese tasting plate – three glasses of wine and three varieties of cheese for AR$95.

Nicaragua 5946 (4778 1050/www. bardumarchepalermo.com) La Cava Jufré There’s no pretension at this Villa Crespo wine joint, just a lot of good wine. The underground wine cellar houses some of Argentina’s best wines at a variety of price points, including top-notch reds for under AR$100, like Durigutti’s cabernet sauvignon. In addition to tastings, La Cava Jufré also offers wine courses.

Jufré 201 (4775 7501/lacavajufre. com.ar) an eclectic cocktail menu designed by master mixologist and sommelier Sebastián Maggi. Time Out loves the light-green concoction Descoya, with Absolut Vodka, torrontés wine, San Germain and pisco, served up in a martini glass complete with a delicious little green olive. After a few cocktails, switch to one of the unique and flavoursome artisanal beers.

Posadas 1086/88, y Avenida 9 de Julio (4321 1730/www.elenaponyline.com).

Bus 17, 60. Open 11am-2am Tue-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D5. D The Shamrock Loud music, happy hour until midnight and drinks that are excellent value:

Bars

what more could you want? This Irish bar is very much a BA classic, particularly with the young student crowd. From Thursday to Saturday you should arrive early if you want to grab a bar stool. The pub gets filled to the brim as a pre-drinking spot, as Shamrock Basement (see p90) is conveniently located downstairs. The owner spends his life researching tracks and it pays off: this place plays some of the best music in the city.

Rodríguez Peña 1220, entre Arenales y Juncal (4812 3584). Subte D, Callao/ bus 37, 39, 152. Open from 6pm Mon-Fri; from 10pm Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map E5. D

Palermo La Adorada From the muchachos behind La Fábrica del Taco (see p54) comes this vibrant and sassy tequila bar. La Adorada infuses tequila on-site, adding fruits and cinnamon to the spirit. Live DJs from Wednesday to Saturday make this the perfect spot for the after-office crowd, and as the evening turns into night the Latino tunes are cranked up for you to dance the night away.

Gorriti 5055, entre Thames y Serrano (4832 0815). Bus 39, 55, 140, 151, 168. Open from 7pm Tue-Sun. No credit cards. Map G2.

Antares Real ale-lovers, rejoice: this place is a haven for beer fans craving a proper

New in Town Victoria Brown

Head to Victoria Brown and you may be surprised to find only a small café. Only those in the loop will know to skip the café and head straight to the bar, the entrance to which is camouflaged by a brick wall. Once inside you’ll find an extravaganza of industrial chic and steampunk decor, dotted with portraits of none other than Queen Victoria. A DJ plays pumping beats from atop a wrought-iron staircase and old-fashioned elevator doors are used as dividers between booths. The menu presents some rather complex concoctions – a flavour compass is included, labeling drinks as herbal and dry, delicate and refreshing or strong and seductive – but the cocktails are served in refreshingly simple and elegant glasses. Signature drinks like La Provence, a celadon-coloured cocktail of Bombay Sapphire, lavender and ginger, require nothing more than a simple mint leaf for garnish.

There’s an extensive dinner menu, but be sure to book ahead if you plan to eat and, no matter the occasion, always dress to impress.

Costa Rica 4827, y Jorge Luis Borges (4831 0831/www. victoriabrownbar.com). Bus 34, 36, 39, 55, 57, 111. Open 9pm-4am Wed-Sat. Credit MC, V. Map G3. D

pint, and the adventurous who want to try something different. Antares’s mission is to introduce customers to the delights of its various brews, including Scotch ale, honey beer and cream stout.

The bar attracts folks of all sorts, from brew connoisseurs to lager louts who don’t care where the beer comes from.

The food is mostly hearty Bavarian fare, but also includes tapas, tablas de picadas and main courses cooked using the house beers.

Armenia 1447, entre Gorriti y Cabrera (4833 9611/www.cervezaantares.com).

Bus 39, 55, 140, 151, 168. Open from 6pm Tue, Fri; from 7pm Mon, Wed, Thur, Sat, Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2. D Other locations Bolívar 491, San Telmo (4342 3836); Arévalo 2876, Las Cañitas (4772 2133).

The Bangalore Pub & Curry House Think warm woods, soft chairs, ceiling fans and a highly convivial atmosphere, and you’ve some idea of what this colonial-style establishment has to offer. The bar consistently fills to the brim, with crowds of locals and foreigners often spilling outside. That popularity is thanks in no small part to Bangalore’s generous jugs of gin and tonic, which can be mixed with lavender or ginger syrup. Even on the most crowded night (of which there are many), the pillow-lined nooks upstairs make for a cosy place to order a round of pints and sample the subcontinental cuisine. A plate of potato-stuffed samosas and the Indian platter – three types of curry and bread – are perfect for sharing.

Humboldt 1416, y Niceto Vega (4779 2621). Bus 55, 93. Open 6pm-3am daily. Credit V. Map G2. D Belushi Well-dressed Palermo-ites come in droves to this swanky bar-boliche, hoping to sip on a martini while rubbing shoulders with local celebrities and models. Typically packed out the three nights of the week it’s open, Belushi’s terrace, bar area and space out back make for perfect people watching venues. If the martinis and cosmopolitans don’t drain your wallet, the varied food menu is worth a peak, with everything from grilled sweetbread to sushi on offer to satisfy your late-night munchies.

Honduras 5333, entre Godoy Cruz y Avenida Juan B Justo (4831 8665/ www.belushi.com.ar). Bus 34, 55, 166.

Open from 8.30pm Thur; from 9pm Fri, Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2.

Bernata On a busy corner in Palermo Soho lies elegant Bernata, a dimly-lit tapas bar with exposed brick walls and authentic Spanish dishes scribbled on chalkboards. Start your night with a refreshing Noche de Verano (Martin Millers, tonic, Cinzano Bianco, mandarin orange juice and cucumber), or slip into an intimate corner table for two and tuck into the perfectly executed tapas and mains.

76 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014

Uriarte 1610, y Honduras (4833 5514/www.bernata.com). Bus 34, 39, 55, 140, 151. Open 12.30-3.30pm, 8.30pm-close Tue-Sat; 1-7pm Sun. Credit AmEx, V, MC. Map G2.

The Bowie Artisanal beers, quality bar food and a daily happy hour make Bowie a welcome addition to the plethora of Palermo Soho nightspots. However, the real pull here is the spectacular terrace which overlooks the rooftops of the barrio – perfect for an evening tipple.

Keep your eyes peeled for the opening of the new VIP lounge, which is sure to be good enough for Ziggy Stardust.

Armenia 1439, entre Gorriti y Cabrera (4833 1141). Bus 39, 55, 57. Open 6pm-1am Tue-Thur; 6pm-3.30am Fri, Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2.

lovely twists on the classics. Money seems to have been no object for the decor, with booths and menus all covered in soft leather. And if you’re interested in nursing more than one drink all night, hopefully money is no object for you either. Consult Facebook and Twitter for the secret code.

Arévalo 1445, entre Niceto Vega y Cabrera (4777 6541/www.franks-bar. com). Bus 39, 168. Open 9pm-4am Wed-Sat. Credit AmEx, V. Map H2.

!Isabel In Isabel’s dramatic interior, musicians, actors and model types sip gimlets and mai tais, and do a sterling job of looking like they’re each starring in their own perfume ad. Quality trumps quantity on the sushi menu – and out back, a fire-lit patio adds to the sensual experience.

Try not to get lost in the hall-of-mirrors Chupitos bathroom. Cocktails start at AR$85, but The name says it all: Chupitos, are absolutely worth it. meaning ‘shots’, is a grungy Uriarte 1664, entre little haven for study Honduras y El Salvador abroad students and (4834 6969/www. backpackers looking to isabelbar.com). Bus 34, Very happy hour meet like-minded 39, 166. Open 9pm-4am Drinking is a late-night revellers. Between the affair in BA. Many bars Tue-Thur; 9pm-5am Fri, spicy Pinche Cabron Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, have happy hours that and flaming Harry V. Map G2. D go until as late as Potter vodka shots midnight. you’re sure to have a Magdalena’s Party night to remember (or not).

Magdalena’s Party is the primary Beer pong and cocktails also keep watering hole of English-speaking the ball rolling and for hungry expats. It’s not only the two-for-one punters, the recently opened Palermo drink specials and chance to practise Hollywood location sells fast-food. their mother tongue that keeps them Gorriti 5033, entre Thames y Serrano coming though; the menu serves (4831 9690/www.facebook.com/ American classics like burritos, onion chupitosbar). Bus 34, 39, 140, 168. rings and nachos just the way gringos Open 8pm-3am Tue, Wed; 9pm-4am like them (they even have ‘real’ bacon Thur; 10pm-5am Fri, Sat. Credit here). Sunday morning sees brunch AmEx, V. Map G2. specials and jugs of mimosas going Other location Bonpland 1670, out to every table. DJs spin indie and Palermo (4775 1041). hip hop tunes from Thursday to Saturday, with happy hour specials Ferona Club Social running from noon to midnight.

Set in a gorgeous house, complete with Thames 1795, y Costa Rica (4833 winding staircase and rooftop terrace, 9127/www.magdalenasparty.com). Bus BA’s place to see and be seen (and just 39. Open 11am-2am Tue, Wed; simply have fun) is just as attractive as 11am-4am Thur, Fri; noon-4am Sat, the people that frequent it. The secret Sun. No credit cards. Map G3. D formula? Excellent music, tasteful decor (including vintage radios) and Mundo Bizarro easily the best caipiroskas in the city.

An institution since 1997, Mundo On warmer nights, sip cocktails under Bizarro is one of BA’s all-time great the stars, but as the evening turns into hedonistic, rocking hotspots with a morning, the living room downstairs is sharp red and black interior and over the place to be: the music gets louder, 50 expertly crafted cocktails. Drink the crowd gets merrier and the pretty specials change monthly, with both people start dancing. Be prepared to classics like a Dark & Stormy and queue at the weekends. original concoctions on the rotation. As Address provided at time of booking for the food, Monday is sushi night (mobile 15 6722 6784). Bus 39, 151. while the rest of the week, Tex-Mex Open Restaurant 9.30pm-midnight fare is served. Occasional deals are Wed-Sat. Bar midnight-4am Wed-Sat. offered earlier on, but the place doesn’t Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H2. really heat up until after 1am. From then on it’s a heady mix of music, and Frank’s sociable people.

With one of the strangest entrance Serrano 1222, y Avenida Córdoba policies (you have to first enter a phone (4773 1967/www.mundobizarrobar. booth and mark a secret code) and com). Bus 15, 39, 55, 140, 151, 168. decor akin to a private gentlemen’s Open from 9pm Mon-Sat. No credit club, this speakeasy is destined to cards. Map G2. D impress. Split over two floors, the striking bar serves up traditional and !Rey de Copas signature cocktails; purists will love Pass through the tiled dining room and the old-fashioned ones, but the pretty patio and you’ll discover a bar like no other in the city. Hitting the cucumber martini and Cynar julep are

TOP TIP!

Bulnes 331, y Perón, Almagro. Subte B, Medrano/bus 124, 160, 168. Open 6pm-3am Tue-Fri; 10pm-3am Sat. No credit cards. Map E2.

Bars

Sr Duncan Something magical happens when you enter Sr Duncan. Ring the bell on the unsigned door, then glide up the staircase to an art nouveau mansion replete with high ceilings and stained-glass windows. A swing jazz band could be playing in one corner, a maestro might be tinkling on the grand piano or a couple might be dancing tango. You might think you’ve been transported to another era, especially when you see the food and drink prices, which are a pre-inflationary steal.

Check Sr Duncan’s Facebook page for the daily event schedule.

Avenida Rivadavia 3832, y Salguero, Almagro (4958 3633/www.facebook. com/SeniorDuncan). Subte A, Castro Barros/bus 2, 5, 8, 19, 86, 132, 151.

Open 8pm-3am Tue-Thur; 8pm-5am Fri, Sat. No credit cards. Map E1. D Frank’s (see p76).

ethno-chic nail firmly on the head, this romantically-lit, cavernous space is kitted out with a mishmash of antique pieces: Tibetan masks, Venetian marionettes and 19th-century French tiles all look like they belong together.

It’s hardly any wonder this place oozes style – the owner is the son of Uruguay’s best-known artist, Carlos Páez Vilaró.

Gorriti 5176, entre Thames y Uriarte (2068 5220). Bus 39, 55, 168. Open from 7.30pm Tue-Sat Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2. D The Shanghai Dragon The people behind BA’s most popular pubs – the Bangalore (see p76) and Gibraltar (see p72) – have done it again, this time on a quiet residential Palermo street, and with a Chinese twist.

Blood-red walls, carpeted floors, lots of beer on tap and good value Chinese grub make The Shanghai Dragon a down-to-earth hangout for those sick of Palermo ponce. Large plates of Chinese food make a decent meal or two, and at a price that justifies buying another round of pints. There’s no pretension here: in authentic pub style, it’s just decent indie and reggae tunes and plenty of buena onda.

Aráoz 1199, y Mason (4778 1053).

Bus 39, 110. Open from 5pm daily.

Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2. D Verne Club Master mixologist and owner Fede Cuco drew his inspiration from Jules Verne (of Around the World in 80 Days fame) for this retro-fabulous Palermo bar.

Verne Club follows BA’s growing trend for old-fashioned drinks with a twist.

The menu itself is a trip around the world, with a section dedicated to all the cities Phileas Fogg visited. Time Out loved the Jazmín Blanco from Bombay (honey, lemon, cardamom, gin and jasmine tea) and the London-inspired Breakfast Martini (gin, cointreau, lemon

and marmalade). The brave might want to try the absinthe tasting menu. You’d never guess from the elegant interior that hot dogs were on the menu, but El Camino de Francia, with caramelised onion, goat’s cheese and mustard mayo is tastier than any hot dog ought to be.

Medrano 1475, y Costa Rica (4822 0980). Bus 39, 141, 160. Open from 9pm daily. Credit V. Map G4.

Wherever Bar This welcoming pub just off Avenida Santa Fe is an oasis of calm in the early evening. The buzz builds as the night goes on, but at every hour, whiskey is this bar’s spirit of choice. The 140 bottles range from the aged (and pricey) Macallan to more affordable classics like Jameson. Non-whiskey drinkers can still take advantage of the drink promotions from 6pm to 9pm Monday to Friday, which include a variety of cocktails, and the tapas menu is sure to please everyone, no matter their preferred poison.

Santamaría de Oro 2476, y Avenida Santa Fe (4777 8029). Subte D, Palermo/bus 15, 64, 111. Open from 11am Mon-Fri; from 9pm Sat. Credit V. Map G4. D

Almagro and Villa Crespo 878 Often listed by local bartenders as their favourite cocktail bar, 878 retains its legendary status as one of the city’s top drinking holes. Ring the bell at the unmarked door and you’ll be shown into a slick, low-lit space – a call back to its earlier days as a speakeasy. As it’s no longer as clandestino as it used to be (Fridays and Saturdays are packed) pop in earlier during the week for a more casual drink and dinner. While it may have shed its underground vibe, 878 has

78 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014

now become a classic, rocketing into the ranks of many a night owl’s top ten.

Thames 878, entre Loyola y Aguirre, Villa Crespo (4773 1098/www.878bar. com.ar). Bus 55. Open from 8pm daily.

Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2. D Guarda la Vieja This local Almagro hotspot fills at the weekend with actors performing in the nearby theatres and an artsy twentyto thirtysomething crowd. The exposed brickwork is complimented by colourful canvases painted by local artists and projections of reggae videos in the background. But what calls for the most attention here is the tasty, affordable food: the meat empanadas are a speciality, as are the picadas that include the usual ham and cheese spread along with sweet potato chips and squid rings. A play on the name of the street where it is located, ‘Guarda la Vieja’ means ‘beware of the old woman’, but in this kitchen and bar, there’s nothing to be warned off.

Billinghurst 699, entre Guardia Vieja y Lavalle, Almagro (4863 7923). Subte B, Carlos Gardel/bus 92, 128. Open from 6pm Mon-Sun. No credit cards.

Map F2. !Lo de Roberto Step back in time to the BA of yesteryear in this historic bar on a far-flung corner of Plaza Almagro. It’s the former watering hole of Carlos Gardel, but the star here nowadays is 83-year-old Osvaldo Peredo, a faded tango singer who is enjoying a renaissance among a devoted crowd of young people. A bullet hole in the front window and an ancient manual cash register provide the perfect backdrop for Peredo’s crude, lunfardo-laced tangos that are lapped up by fernet-and-coke-sipping university students. Other equally impassioned crooners perform on other nights, from around 11.30pm.

Belgrano Puerta Uno Knock a few times on the discreet black door off Belgrano’s Chinatown, and you might think you were in the wrong place. But once inside, the loud music, dim lighting and open-air patios make this secret nightspot a thoroughly buzzing venue. The drinks menu glitters with original touches like the apple-basil daiquiri and the pear martini, while food options include pizzas and picadas. It might be a secret, but it’s not exactly a well-kept one: be sure to make a reservation on busy weekend nights.

Juramento 1667, y Montañeses (4706 1522/www.puertauno.com). Bus 15, 80, 107, 113, 114, 118, 130.

Open 7.30pm-4.30am Tue-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V.

Recommended Cervecería Nacional

Some of the neighbours of Cervecería Nacional could learn a few things from the brewery’s effortless charm. No imposing marketing paraphernalia and no aspirations to please at all costs here. Just a regular bar, showcasing a fine collection of the country’s best home-brewed beers with a Rubia, Roja and IPA on tap and bottles of other beers with wacky names and designs stacked high on the shelves. A great happy hour (two pints for AR$45) brings in owner Leandro’s older friends who, as the night spins out, are replaced by a younger and more vocal crowd. A sizzling bondiola con papa bravas (on Tuesdays) and tapas appear on the menu for those who are in for the long haul.

Arévalo 1588, y Gorriti (4771 3383/www.facebook.com/ cervecerianacionalbar). Bus 39, 57.

Open 6pm-midnight Tue-Thur; 6pm-1am Fri; 6pm-1.30am Sat. No credit cards. Map H2.

Bars Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014 79

FLOR MARCONI

Clubs

Party hard at former cathedral, La Capilla.

Clubs with character From a former church to a golf green, George Kafka dances the night away at some of the most unforgettable club settings.

A

bout as far from dull as a last-minute trip to the moon, Buenos Aires’s nightlife is constantly looking for the next hook to draw in the crowds. New DJs pop up every weekend and club promoters do their damndest to attract the young and pretty with fistfuls of VIP wristbands. But what’s really catching punters’ eyes these days is more than just music and drink specials, it’s some fantastically unique venues. Not content with some of the mega clubs along Avenida Juan B Justo and the Costanera that could be mistaken for 24-hour Walmarts, a handful of creative promoters have gone beyond the conventional nightclub look in order to take partygoers to locations that are as spectacular as the parties held inside them. Unlike most nightclubs, these places won’t make you cringe if you happen to catch a glimpse of them in the light of day.

Leading the way is Alsina (see p82) in Microcentro. Step through the curtain at Alsina and inside the cavernous space you’ll find a

breathtaking juxtaposition of 19th century ironwork and a 30 metre LED screen that rises up behind the DJ. Sunday’s Club One (www. clubonebsas.com.ar) is all about euphoric hedonism, with hard house pumping through the ecstatic partygoers who bathe in balloons and confetti fired out beneath the acid visuals of the screens. State (statebsas.com.ar) takes over once a month on Friday and has hosted global techno stars at the Alsina DJ booth including Carl Cox, Richie Hawtin and Sven Vath.

Equally spectacular is the newly reopened Club Museum (Perú 535, 4342 8872). Gustave Eiffel designed the building in 1894, when it was originally intended to be an agricultural showroom. There’s no agriculture these days, but the venue still has its original details. While the impressive windows and stunning façade suggest an evening at the opera, parties at Club Museum (formerly known as Boutique) are populated by champagne sipping Don Giovannis looking for love to the sound of Latino hits and cumbia

80 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014

remixes. If you’re looking to start the evening off slowly, head over for dinner and a live show before the tables are cleared and a night at the Museum brings nocturnal creatures to life.

If industrial decor doesn’t appeal, try a night out in one of Buenos Aires’s greenest spots. Nestled in the Palermo woods, Golf Palermo (Avenida Tornquist 6385, 4084 1710, www.facebook.com/ golfpalermo), is home to some of BA’s classiest clubbers. The large windows off the dancefloor provide gorgeously lit views of the city’s golf course backed up by Palermo’s high-rises. Head over to the club on a Saturday at 11pm and be greeted with a cocktail before the DJs entertain with chart-topping hits.

Feeling guilty about your recent sins but not ready to give up your partying ways? La Capilla (see p82), housed in a giant cathedral, can provide the answer to such a crisis.

Join the congregation on a Friday night for Fiesta de la Flor and dance your spiritual woes away under the roof of a former house of God. While

the pews and the priests are nowhere to be seen, the original structure remains, complete with grand arches and a marble floor, while psychedelic visuals have replaced stained glass windows.

Today’s hymns are provided by Argentinian reggae bands and DJs spinning everything from Balkan beats to dancehall.

After all the grandiosity, even the most seasoned party goer needs a vibe that’s a little more homely. Mi Casa (Agüero 787, www.facebook. com/espaciomicasa) in Almagro provides just this kind of atmosphere. Behind the doors of a typical Neo-Renaissance piece of Buenos Aires architecture, the team behind Mi Casa expertly blends the club and house party vibe.

Cutting-edge electronica nights are their speciality, served in intimate surroundings with a heavy dose of buena onda.

Killer beats and pretty people are reason enough to go clubbing, but fortunately at these venues you’ll find more eye candy than just what’s on the dancefloor.

Clubs

The scene Expect to dance until the sun rises and then some; if you call it quits at 4am you’ll miss out on parties at their peak hours. So in order to see the best BA nightlife has to offer, be prepared to reset your clock to keep up with the porteños. While licensing laws mean last entrance to clubs is at 4am and last drinks at 5am, don’t expect parties to hit their stride until around 3am. And when you’re really hyped up on vodka and Speed (Argentina’s answer to Red Bull), don’t just head home because the rest of the party is winding down, instead hop on over to an after hours club (see p86).

BA’s nightlife scene is one of the few places where ladies have the upper hand, at least when it comes to prices.

Many clubs offer women discounted entry or do away with the cover charge altogether. Gender aside, the best way to dodge paying entry or get a discount is to get your name on a club’s guest list. Some nightclubs offer a list by way of email or Facebook, while for others you may have to snag a wristband from lurking promoters. For free entrance to Tuesday’s popular Hype night at Kika (see p86), pick up a wristband from Magdalena’s Party (see p76) between 10pm and 2am.

If you want to see and be seen, BA has plenty in the way of glamorous, upscale spots. Jet (see p86) and Asia de Cuba (see right) are home base for those with nice threads and money to

burn. Less upscale but just as fun, Thursday’s Club 69 at Niceto Club (see p88) is the grandmother of local bizarro parties. Part cabaret, part stripshow, part tranny fest, its electro beats are but a backdrop to an eclectic line-up of drag queens, nipple-tasselled ladies and chiselled dancers.

Don’t have a particular destination in mind? Undecided clubgoers can hang around Avenida Juan B Justo and calle Honduras in Palermo, where you’ll find megaclubs like Liv (see p86), Rosebar (Honduras 5445) and Wanna (Avenida Juan B Justo 1636).

BA also has a vibrant avant-garde mash-up scene. Palermo Club (see p88) offers the monthly party La Mentirosa, featuring performers like space-age duo Fauna and feisty girls’ dance troupe F.L.O.W. Altas Wachas.

Groove (see p137) is a pumping venue and hosts La Mágica, a cumbia mix fest, as well as live music. Kika’s Hype party also hosts its annual anniversary party here and attracts top international DJs such as Zomboy, Steve Aoki and Jillionaire.

For the week’s clubbing schedule, check websites www.buenosaliens.com or www.nightclubber.com.ar.

Venues !Alsina The cathedral-like Alsina is the talk of electro partyland these days, thanks to the hi-fi sound and consistently strong line-up of

international names (Gui Boratto, Richie Hawtin, Fedde Legrande, Gareth Emery and Calvin Harris to name a few), which ensure that the 1,500-head capacity is normally reached early on in the night. Electro party State takes place once a month on Fridays – check the website to find out when the next one will be.

Sunday’s Club One attracts an experienced party-hard crowd and is pumping by 10pm. The second level balcony offers a nice vantage point for spying on (and momentarily escaping from) the pulsing mob below.

Adolfo Alsina 940, entre Bernardo de Irigoyen y Tacuarí, Monserrat (4331 3231/www.statebsas.com.ar). Subte A, Piedras/bus 10, 17, 59, 70, 86, 91, 98, 103, 105, 126, 129. Open midnight7am monthly on Fri; 8pm-2.30am Sun. Map C4.

Asia de Cuba Wednesday’s Glamour Night is the main event at this swish waterfront resto-club, where a fashionable crowd descends around 10pm and stays late.

It packs in executives and tourists from swanky nearby hotels drawn to the sushi, decent (if pricey) drinks and deep house. Dress to impress and get ready to splash out. Admission costs AR$150 and includes a drink.

Pierina Dealessi 750, y Macacha Güemes, Puerto Madero Este (4894 1328/www.asiadecuba.com.ar). Bus 4, 20, 111, 130, 152, 195. Open Restaurant 9pm-1am Wed-Sat. Club 1-6am Wed-Sat. Map B5.

Bahrein Swish Bahrein is party central for electro-heads, with the basement of this grand former bank pumping out all manner of house, techno and electronic beats three nights a week.

Saturdays usually play host to an international DJ and see attendees flit between the glam Funky Room and the basement, where the party-hungry energy is concentrated.

Lavalle 345, entre Reconquista y 25 de Mayo, Microcentro (4314 8886/www. bahreinba.com). Subte B, LN Alem/bus 4, 5, 6, 7, 9, 10, 17, 28, 93, 129, 152.

Open from midnight Wed, Fri, Sat. Map C5.

La Capilla This spectacular former church in Microcentro hosts some of the liveliest parties in the city. Friday’s Fiesta de La Flor combines local reggae bands with dancehall and ska beats, while Saturdays vary between rock nacional and acid house nights from the Psyrockers Crew.

Suipacha 842, entre Avenida Córdoba y Paraguay, Microcentro (mobile 15 5114 6481). Subte C, San Martín/bus 5, 6, 59, 60, 140. Open from 10pm Thur-Sat. Map D5.

Club Aráoz With a space big enough to hold over 1,000 clubgoers, five bars under its roof, and plasma and LED TVs throughout the entire venue, it’s safe to say that Club Aráoz can handle whatever gets thrown its way. Despite

82 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014

GON DE FAZIO

Shamrock Basement (see p90).

LUCIO ALVAREZ LASTRA

post-Bomba de Tiempo (see p140) timeslot, and for good reason.

Lavalle 345, entre Reconquista y 25 de Mayo, Microcentro (4314 8886/www. clubseverino.com.ar). Subte B, LN Alem/bus 4, 5, 6, 7, 9, 10, 17, 28, 93, 129, 152. Open 11.45pm-6am Mon. Map C4.

Clubs

Cocoliche The biggest name in Buenos Aires’s underground night scene is über-cool Cocoliche, a favourite with young local punters and party-hardy foreigners who take their electro very seriously.

Minimal house and drum ’n’ bass pound the good-natured crowd to a trance-like pulp in the crammed, airless basement while happy boozers line the street-level bar. The rotating programme features the beatmaster owners in the box and serious international names that draw in a sizeable crowd.

Avenida Rivadavia 878, entre Suipacha y Esmeralda, Microcentro (www. facebook.com/Cocoliche). Subte A, Piedras/bus 5, 24, 29, 39, 60, 64, 100, 105, 126, 129. Open from midnight Fri, Sat. Map C4.

the huge capacity, there’s nothing to say the multi-tiered club won’t fill up quickly with trendy young clubbers clamouring to dance to the latest Latin, reggaeton and dance hits. The party-hungry crowd gets going as early 11.30pm (which is indeed quite early for BA), but the fashionably late ladies can still get in cover-free until 3am, gents until 2.30am.

Aráoz 2424, entre Güemes y Avenida Santa Fe, Palermo (4832 9751/mobile 15 4093 9129/www.clubaraoz.com.ar).

Subte D, Scalabrini Ortíz/bus 12, 15, 29, 36, 39, 57, 111, 152, 188, 194.

Open from 1am Fri; from 11pm Sat. Map F4.

Crobar Friday-night crowds hoof it to this superclub’s thumping debauchery of Be Techno which brings in international and local bands, a first-rate crew of DJs mixing techno and house tunes, as well as a rollicking bunch of global party people of the over-25 variety. Dress is flirty and sporty; come with money to spare to cover the hefty entrance fee and to purchase some pricey sauce. Fridays in the main club see international DJs spin heavy techno beats, while Saturday nights are all about Keek, a gay-friendly electro party.

Marcelino Freyre e Infanta Isabel, Paseo de la Infanta, Palermo (4778 1500/www.crobar.com). Bus 10, 34, 37, 130, 160, 166. Open from midnight Fri, Sat. Map G5.

Gong Gong has long been on the radar as a hangout for local teens: the central location, cheap booze and no-frills beats make for some good times romping around, but perhaps not Club Severino the BA night out of your While the rest of Buenos wildest dreams. However, Aires is slumbering thanks to the fab Dengue Monday nights away, Dancing, the downtown No hablo español the city’s carefree party boliche buzzes on Go ahead, look like a crowd is dancing it up Thursday nights with tourist. Lots of club at Club Severino. The bouncers open the velvet fun-loving gay kids. DJs evening features rock, ropes for groups of get this underground pop and hip hop hits as foreigners. party going and the well as electro and techno crowd working up a sweat beats spun by a line-up of to electronic music. The mood some of the city’s top DJs. This shifts on Friday and Saturday nights, club night has recently moved to which generally attract a Bahrien (see p82). Check the website thirtysomething or over crowd looking for themed parties as well as live rock to relive their youth with rock music and hip hop acts. Get in free before from the 1980s and 1990s.

1am (AR$60 afterwards), sip a Fernet Avenida Córdoba 634, entre Florida y and coke, then start making eyes at Maipú, Microcentro (4322 0680). smooth porteños keen to have an Subte C, San Martín/bus 10, 17, 22, international experience. Around a 93, 111, 126, 140, 143, 152, 180, thousand punters make Club Severino 195. Open from 11.30pm Thur-Sat. their party of choice in Monday night’s Map C5.

TOP TIP!

Jet (see p86).

84 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014

Clubs

FLORI MORENO

Crobar (see p84).

Jet Tuesday’s event attracts a mix of Any ambitious BA clubber has to party-hard locals and foreigners who make a weekly stopover at Jet. Situated come to dance to hip hop, electro, drum along the posh Costanera Norte club ’n’ bass and a little bit of dubstep and circuit, Jet makes a killing three nights indie rock. Even for those who aren’t a week as hundreds of night owls put in-the-know, Kika’s black and white on their best threads in the hopes of paint splattered walls and the constant making the cut (no easy task here, Jet throng of clubbers waiting outside its has one of the strictest door policies in doors make it fairly clear that BA). Jet’s Thursday night is easily something fun is brewing inside. The among the best club nights in the partying continues on Wednesdays, as capital, attracting easy-on-the-eye a substantial crowd of porteños locals and foreigners who come for a regularly chooses to end after-office generous dose of electro fun. Cocktails evenings at the club in order to enjoy and tapas in a chilled-out its biggest electro music night. lounge-bar setting get things Come the weekend, DJs reel started, but the night in large crowds who love doesn’t really heat up to dance to cachengue No shirts, no shoes... beats in the front room, until 3am. Friday – Some clubs have a strict while the latest house usually a night of rock dress shoe only policy, beats boom across the and reggaeton for a so backpackers take slightly younger crowd back dancefloor. heed and leave your flip- Honduras 5339, entre – is also popular and flops behind.

Jet’s the place to be seen Avenida Juan B Justo y on Saturday nights when Godoy Cruz, Palermo Soho house beats pump on late into the (4137 5311/www.kikaclub.com. night. Free entry until 2am, afterwards ar). Bus 34, 39, 55, 93, 108, 111, AR$200-$350 (includes a drink).

140, 151, 166, 168. Open 1-6am Avenida Rafael Obligado 4801, Tue-Sun. Map G2.

Costanera Norte (4782 5599/ www.jet.com.ar). Bus 45, 152, 160.

Levitar Open from 10.30pm Thur-Sat. Right in the heart of Palermo, Levitar Map F6. is a convenient and popular option after hitting up one of the larger, Kika nearby spots. The spacious indoorIt seems no club in Buenos Aires will outdoor patio is a perfect place to ever come close to dethroning Kika as gather with some friends. On the go-to club on Tuesday nights. weekends, there’s an entry charge after Dubbed Hype (www.hype-ba.com), 2am (which gets you one drink on the

TOP TIP!

86 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014

house), but as always in our progressive modern times, ladies get in free of charge.

Godoy Cruz 1715, entre Honduras y Gorriti, Palermo (4833 9030/www. levitarba.com). Bus 34, 39, 55, 108, 140, 111. Open 11pm-6am Wed-Sat. Map G2.

Liv Every night, clubbers migrate to the nightclubs lining Avenida Juan B Justo, at the intersection of Palermo Hollywood and Soho. Of those clubbers, all the young, beautiful twentysomethings line up at Liv. If you like your nights out to be full-body experiences – light on conversation and heavy on music and people-watching – then Liv’s Friday event, United, should be just your can of Speed.

Pulsating house beats sync with your heartbeat while deep red lighting casts the evening in naughty hues. Saturdays move to a Latin beat, with cachengue and reggaeton keeping the crowd moving at full force.

Avenida Juan B Justo 1658, entre Cabrera y Gorriti, Palermo (mobile 15 6838 8228). Bus 34, 39, 55, 93, 140, 151, 166, 168. Open 11pm-6am Fri, Sat. Map H2.

Mandarine Club This riverside spot is brought to BA’s clubbers by the people of Crobar, so you’ll be in safe hands here – these guys know how to throw a party. At Mandarine they aim to pump new

energy into the city’s electronic scene, with an atmosphere influenced by the clubs of Paris and Berlin. A typical Friday night draws in crowds of fashionable twentysomething designer types and rockers partying to cachengue and reggaeton. The venue has two large spaces – a terrace and a main room – so no matter how sweaty you get you’ll find a way to cool down.

Saturdays see international DJs spin trance and techno.

Recommended After hours clubs

Not ready to go home at 6am?

Buenos Aires has a fine selection of clubs that go on past the wee hours of the early morning. With some of the coolest DJs and clubbers around, La Piramide (2075 1278, www.facebook.com/ Lapiramidebsas) is a safe bet to keep the party going well into Saturday morning. Piramide’s truly underground status means venues can change so check Facebook to stay up to date. Dark and dingy Miloka (Niceto Vega 5510) fills up with clubkids committed to dancing past 7am. A little smarter in vibe is Levitar (see left), which has some of the best house DJs in town. Though not open quite so late, it’s the ideal spot if you want to hear some good music and catch the sunrise.

ROMAN BUCCINO

Weekly agenda Monday at Club Severino

Electro beats, pop and hip hop favourites, and a dancefloor packed with hostel hotties and pretty porteños: start off your BA week with, ahem, a bang. See p84.

Tuesday at Kika

Party with an international crowd who let their hair down to drum ’n’ bass, dubstep, rock, hip hop and electro at Kika’s popular Hype night. See p86.

Wednesday at Asia de Cuba

Clubs

Get your glad rags on and flash the cash as you schmooze with models and executives at this swish, waterfront resto-bar. Arrive early to feast on dainty portions of sushi.

See p82.

Thursday at Niceto Club and Jet Electro mash-ups and a cabaret freak show make Niceto’s Club 69 a night of unbridled fun and debauchery, while Jet is the hottest party for those who want to see and be seen. See left, p86.

Friday at Crobar

Local and foreign DJs spin pure techno and a photogenic, partyhard crowd ushers in the weekend with full force at Crobar’s Be Techno night. See p84.

Saturday at Pacha

The best DJs make their way to Pacha every Saturday, when the huge club pumps with house beats.

See p88.

Sunday at Makena

Afromama at Makena (see p137) is the funkiest joint in Palermo, with live funk bands and DJs spinning soul classics. An entry fee of AR$10 makes this one of the best value nights in the city. www. facebook.com/afromamamusic.

Club Severino (see p84).

Punta Carrasco, Avenida Costanera Norte y Sarmiento, Costanera Norte (4806 8002/www.mandarineclub.com).

Bus 33, 37, 45, 152, 160. Open from midnight Fri, Sat. Map G6. !Niceto Club One of the most sure-fire spots in town to get down, Niceto powers on with a packed roster in each of its two rooms.

Thursday’s glittering freak magnet Club 69 is an absolute must – the pumping crowd made up mainly of in-the-know foreigners rings in the weekend early with a full-on, jaw-dropping show of strippers, breakdancers and majestic drag queens bopping in time to the eclectic electro beats. Friday’s Invasión fiesta draws in fun-loving throngs for live indie bands followed by cumbia electrónica, pop and rock, while Saturday sees a rotating line-up of acts and DJs, including electro-centric Undertones.

Niceto Vega 5510, entre Humboldt y Fitz Roy, Palermo (4779 9396/www.

nicetoclub.com). Bus 34, 39, 93, 140, 151, 166, 168. Open 9pm-6am Thur-Sat. Map H2.

pachabuenosaires.com). Bus 28, 33, 34, 37, 45, 152, 160. Open 11.45pm-7am Sat. Map G6.

Pacha Perched on the Costanera Norte, Pacha, with it’s gleaming white walls and waterfront views, is impossible to miss. It remains quiet all week, until Saturday night kicks in and chic clubbers trek out to Pacha’s sweaty, rollicking dance pit, with no intention of emerging until the sun comes up. International names from the DJ stratosphere, including Popof, Jamie Jones, Dubfire and Chuckie, keep the party-hard dance fiends (including a fair share of hot musclemen and augmented model types) going until the bright and early hours of the morning. Those pretty and rich enough to go VIP have more chilled-out options at their disposal.

Avenida Rafael Obligado 6151, Costanera Norte (4788 4280/www.

Palermo Club A far cry from the fancy rags and classy cocktails of places like Asia de Cuba, this renovated bailanta – a nightclub playing cumbia music – attracts an alternative porteño crowd who come for the very popular party La Mentirosa, when local cumbia inspired bands play.

Borges 2454, entre Avenida Santa Fe y Güemes, Palermo (47743101/www. facebook.com/palermo.club). Subte D, Plaza Italia/bus 10, 12, 29, 39, 111, 141, 152, 194. Open from 11pm Fri, Sat. Map G4.

88 Time Out Insiders’ guide to Buenos Aires 2014

Podestá Set in the heart of Palermo Soho, this unpretentious two-floor club with a large terrace brings a refreshing change to the Buenos Aires clubbing scene. Attracting mainly laid-back,

local folk, this club is not about who’s wearing what but instead just about having a blooming good time. A generous happy hour (11pm-1am) and other drink promotions get punters merry, while resident DJs spin rock, house and popular remixes of old-school classics.

Armenia 1740, entre Costa Rica y El Salvador, Palermo (4832 2776/www. podestafotos.com). Bus 15, 39, 55, 140, 151, 160, 168. Open 10pm-4am Thur; 11pm-6am Fri, Sat. Map G3.

The Roxy With a killer weekend line-up featuring two smash-hit club nights for the young and the restless, The Roxy is on top of its game. The spacious lounge area is perfect for relaxing into a cushy couch, knocking back a couple of cocktails and keeping an eye on the stage happenings (usually too-hip-tocare bands and VJs) before stepping out to boogie. Drop in for Friday’s Roxtar rock fiesta or Saturday’s

Clubs Time Out Insiders´ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014 89

contemporary pop. Make a reservation beforehand and arrive early so you can tuck in to a decent dinner for AR$80, then stay on for the evening, avoiding the admission charge. The clubbing-only set will have to pay AR$50 to enter after 1.30am.

Marcelo T de Alvear 1540, entre Montevideo y Paraná, Tribunales (4811 4730/www.youknowmyname. com.ar). Subte D, Callao/bus 5, 10, 12, 39, 124, 152. Open 9.30pm-6am Fri, Sat. Map D5.

Clubs

Nightlife index Bars

Victoria Brown (see p76).

Sympathy for the Party featuring live music then DJs afterwards. If you’re more partial to folk and indie sounds, hit Thursday night’s Underclub.

Niceto Vega 5542, y Humboldt, Palermo (4777 0997/www.theroxybar. com.ar). Bus 39, 93, 140, 151, 168.

Open from 11pm Thur-Sat. Map H2.

Shamrock Basement An Irish pub/electro club in posh Recoleta? Unlikely, perhaps, but a winning combo. This spot is the product of some serious nightlife know-how, and brings in some of the city’s top turntable talent in an ever-changing, hand-picked roster focusing on electronica and deep house.

It’s one of the few clubs that gets busy early, especially on Thursdays, thanks in part to the cheery happy hour drink specials in the moody upstairs pub (see p74). Shamrock basement is one of the

best places to be during the key hours of 3am to 6am, when the club is usually rocking with a mix of locals, tourists wandering down from upstairs and some of the hardiest clubbers from the BA night scene. The admission fee (AR$50 for men, AR$30 for women) includes a drink, but arrive early and you can skip the pesky fees altogether.

The Shamrock, Rodríguez Peña 1220, entre Juncal y Arenales, Recoleta (4812 3584). Bus 10, 12, 17, 39, 59, 60, 106, 108, 111, 124, 132, 152.

Open Bar from 6.30pm, Thur-Sat. Club from midnight Thur; from 10pm Fri, Sat. Map E5.

Unicorn Huset Despite there being dozens of crowded bars in the area, Unicorn Huset, which lies behind unmarked doors, is the one that punters are prepared to queue for.

With monochrome walls, intimate

90 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014

seating and a spacious deck, Unicorn Huset fills to capacity each weekend with easy-on-the-eye twenty- and thirtysomethings who check each other (and themselves) out while sipping cocktails. As the night turns into morning, the dancefloor heaves with party people having a good time.

Honduras 5730, entre Bonpland y Carranza, Palermo (www.unicornhuset. com). Bus 39, 93, 140, 111, 151, 166, 168. Open 9pm-4.30am Wed-Sun. Map H2.

You Know My Name This pumped-up lounge is the weekend scene for indie-hipsters and rockers. Sip a fruity cocktail on couches under a wall of TV monitors while the VJ (that’s right, no DJs here) projects quirky music videos – think early-1990s Eurotrash electronica, Madonna’s True Blue era and

878 La Adorada Antares The Bangalore Pub & Curry House Bar du Marché BASA Bar Belushi Bernata The Bowie La Cava Jufré Cervecería Nacional Chupitos La Cigale Leitmotiv Doppelgänger Ferona Club Social Florería Atlántico Frank’s Gibraltar Guarda la Vieja Isabel Krakow The Library Lounge Magdalena’s Party Milión Mundo Bizarro Pain et Vin La Poesía Pony Line Bar La Puerta Roja Puerta Uno Rey de Copas Rubik Lo de Roberto Será de Dios The Shamrock The Shanghai Dragon Sr Duncan Verne Club Victoria Brown Wherever Bar

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Clubs Alsina Asia de Cuba Bahrein La Capilla Club Aráoz Club Severino Cocoliche Crobar Gong Jet Kika Levitar Liv Mandarine Club Niceto Club Pacha Palermo Club Podestá The Roxy Shamrock Basement Unicorn Huset You Know My Name

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Shopping Shopping listings Shopping index

Photograph: Shooresh Fezoni

94 112

Cutting-edge leather Shopping

‘

Why leather?’ responds designer Mariana, the founder of leather goods label Somaini (mobile 15 4429 6480, www.somaini.com.ar), ‘because it’s very difficult to find a raw material that combines or can replace all of its properties and here we have some of the best.’ By here she means, of course, Argentina, one of the world’s top ten leather exporters.

Compared to other major centres of leather production, however, Argentina manufactures far fewer finished leather goods for export.

Simply put, there is huge potential to exploit one of the country’s most characteristic commodities and its important leatherworking tradition. There is also plenty of potential among local designers, who are breaking away from the overly classic aesthetic usually associated with leather products from these latitudes and, Somaini asserts, increasingly developing their very own unique design identity.

In Somaini’s case, this identity is influenced by her own personal style, which she describes as having ‘a very masculine element’. It follows, then, that her unfussy, modern bags appeal to both sexes: a minimalist backpack with detachable straps has proven particularly popular with stylish chaps. Sold through Somaini’s showroom and website, the products are restrained, transcending seasonal trends and letting the quality of the craftsmanship and materials take centre stage. The positive response to this promising young label, which was launched in 2013, has encouraged

These days, Argentinian designers are modernising the use of a classic, traditional material by making covetable, contemporary leather jackets, bags and accessories. Follow Sophie Parker as she searches for the latest in leather.

Somaini to add a line of belts and leather jackets, created with workshops that have made outerwear for top-name national brands, with the entire process, characteristically, closely supervised by the designer herself.

It was the discovery of a small tannery producing rough goatskin in the middle of rural northern Argentina that motivated Chelsey and Felicitas Henderson to set up leather bag brand Jungle Vi.Ai. Pi. (mobile 15 6053 9312, www.jungleviaipi. com), but the sisters’ designs are anything but provincial. Their sophisticated, colourful clutches and carryalls – now manufactured in Buenos Aires and sold locally in their San Telmo showroom, in Palermo boutique Panorama (República de la India 2905, www.pnrm.com.ar) and through online site Indybuy – have been snapped up by shops in Paris and Japan. The Hendersons have a clear appreciation of their country’s raw materials and artisanship and have successfully combined this with a cosmopolitan vision. Chelsey explains that the sisters are currently focusing on expanding their client base abroad: ‘Jungle has a style and brand image more in keeping with European trends.’

Sustainability is also something that comes up in conversation with these young designers. This is far from throwaway fashion: Somaini’s aim is for her customers to go home with products that combine ‘design, quality and that last them a lifetime’ and recently the Henderson sisters have come full circle, returning to the tannery that first inspired them and

94 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014

creating a line with 100 per cent ecologically tanned and fair trade goat leather.

Designers Dolores Mouriño and Lucila De Paula are also taking the best resources their homeland has to offer and employing them in designs that appeal to international tastes. The founding concept behind their handbag label Bellebas (mobile 15 3019 3480, www.bellebas.com), which is also stocked in Buenos Aires by Panorama, was the desire to bring to global attention not only Argentina’s excellent leather, but also the high standard of local craftsmanship. Working almost 11,000 kilometres apart (Lucila is based in Dublin and Dolores in Buenos Aires), the designers specialise in clean-lined clutches, shoulder bags and timeless totes.

They use materials such as kidskin and patent and embossed leathers and maintain the exclusivity of their bags by producing only limited amounts. Look out for their collections in shops in Dublin and London or buy direct from the Bellebas online store, which offers worldwide delivery.

Humawaca (see p106) has been fusing international trends with local leatherworking tradition for over a decade. The brand’s name, logo and even its classic BKF backpack by Ingrid Gutman – inspired by the Butterfly or BKF chair designed in 1938 by Buenos Aires architectural collective Grupo Austral – are all nods to its Argentinian roots. But Humawaca has been having success further afield too, with its functional, architecturallyinfluenced bags, wallets and other accessories in vibrant colour combinations featured at New York’s MoMA, Harrods in London and Le Bon Marché in Paris.

And it’s not just all about

bags: at Mariela Calvé (Nicaragua 4593, 4832 7268, www. marielacalve.com) laser-cut cuffs and earrings in kidskin and handassembled necklaces with delicate geometric or organic forms echo the aesthetic of the label’s attractive and original handbags. Doma (see p106), meanwhile, has been shaking up the leather goods scene since 2002, with covetable garments.

While production is no longer based

exclusively in Argentina, the leather is all local and the company flies the flag for Argentinian leather and design abroad: Doma’s characteristic jackets in buttery soft lamb leather have found their way into the wardrobes of Taylor Momsen, Jessica Alba and Paris Hilton, and on to the rails of department stores from New York to Hong Kong.

Whether up-and-coming or well-established, these brands all have one thing in common: their recognition of the potential that Argentina’s excellent leather and tradition of craftsmanship offer for developing high quality, enduring products with international appeal and contemporary relevance.

The essentials

The Centre

Shopping in the hectic Microcentro is focused in and around the pedestrian calle Florida, with its chain stores, souvenir shops and the popular Galerías Pacífico shopping centre. The area between Retiro and Recoleta encompasses the exclusive Patio Bullrich mall as well as a number of luxury leather goods stores.

FASHION – MENSWEAR

La Martina This leather and casual clothes outfitter has one inspiration: polo. Pick up a long-sleeved shirt with a subtle logo or, for a more casual look, go for a short-sleeved version with print details.

There’s womenswear with a preppy feel as well as large leather bags and, naturally, polo gear. If you can’t afford to splurge, get a piece of La Martina action with a leather wallet.

Paraguay 661, entre Florida y Maipú (4576 7998/www.lamartina.com).

Subte C, San Martín/bus 10, 17. Open 10am-8pm Mon-Fri; 10am-2pm Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D5.

Other locations Arribeños 2632; Belgrano (4576 0010); and branches throughout the city.

JEWELLERY

Plata Nativa Although this small shop, one of many in an unassuming downtown mall, might at first appear unremarkable, it’s a treasure trove of indigenous and Latin American art, antique silver and ethnic accessories. The store’s clients include the Rolling Stones, Marc Jacobs and Pedro Almodóvar, who have all been wowed by Marta Campana’s mind-boggling collection.

Unit 41, Galería del Sol, Florida 860, entre Avenida Córdoba y Paraguay (4312 1398/www.platanativa.com).

Subte C, San Martín/bus 6, 26, 93, 132. Open 10am-7.30pm Mon-Fri; 10am-2pm Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map C5.

LEATHER GOODS

Casa Lopez Well-established Casa Lopez, dedicated to all things leather, is located close to Plaza San Martín. Trenchcoats, jackets, handbags and luggage come in mostly classic styles, and the quality is top-notch. Native leathers such as those from carpincho (a large rodent) and yacaré (a South American caiman) are used in a number of products.

Marcelo T de Alvear 640/658, entre Florida y Maipú (4311 3044/ www.casalopez.com.ar). Subte C, San Martín/bus 10, 17, 59. Open 9am-8pm Mon-Fri; 9.30am-7pm Sat; 10am-6pm Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D6.

Other location Galerías Pacífico shopping centre, Microcentro (5555 5241).

Prüne Well-established Argentinian brand Prüne is a popular destination for bag fans, and its broad selection of styles ranges from handy holdalls to sparkly evening clutches. Studs, chains, animal prints and textured leathers feature frequently in the trendy collections, which also include wallets, belts, footwear, jackets and coats. Try on a sexy biker jacket and some ankle boots, then top them off with a studded messenger bag.

Florida 963, entre Paraguay y Marcelo T de Alvear (4893 2641/www.prune. com.ar). Subte C, San Martín/bus 70, 91, 106. Open 9.30am-8pm Mon-Sat; 11am-6.30pm Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D5.

Other locations Patio Bullrich shopping centre, Recoleta (4814 7437);

Avenida Santa Fe 1587, Recoleta (4816 7299), and branches throughout the city.

MUSIC

Zivals Claiming to stock the widest selection of music in South America, Zivals (also an excellent bookshop) specialises in classical, jazz, folk, tango and hard-to-find independent local recordings. If you’re looking to broaden your musical horizons, ask the friendly staff for suggestions.

Avenida Callao 395, y Avenida Corrientes (4371 6978/www.zivals. com). Subte B, Callao/bus 12, 24, 37, 60. Open 9.30am-9.30pm Mon-Sat Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D4.

SPORTS AND OUTDOOR GEAR

Wildlife Just steps from Avenida 9 de Julio, this shop sells brand new and second-hand equipment for campers, climbers, anglers, parachutists and more. The store’s expert staff is well equipped to guide you in all your purchases and on where to practise outdoor pursuits.

Hipólito Yrigoyen 1133, entre Salta y Lima (4383 7013/www.wildlifesports. com.ar). Subte A, Lima/bus 29, 59, 86.

Open 10am-8pm Mon-Fri; 10am-1pm Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map C4.

San Telmo

Known for its antiques shops and for its unmissable open-air Sunday feria on calle Defensa – a market that sprawls for several chaotic blocks – San Telmo is also home to a growing number of multi-brand stores stocking trendy modern clothing and accessories by up-and-coming local designers.

ANTIQUES, ART AND COLLECTIBLES

Gabriel Del Campo Anticuario Well known for collectibles and furniture, this antiques shop facing Plaza Dorrego

SHOPPING CENTRES

Galerías Pacífico This shopping centre is housed in a beautiful building decorated with frescoes by five Argentinian muralists.

You’ll find famous names such as Lacoste here, along with jewellers Swarovski and local retail stars Ona Saez and Kosiuko.

Florida 737, entre Viamonte y Avenida Córdoba (5555 5100/www. galeriaspacifico.com.ar). Subte B, Florida/bus 6, 93, 130, 152. Open Shops 10am-9pm daily. Restaurants 10am-10.30pm Mon-Thur, Sun; 10am-11.30pm Fri, Sat. Credit varies.

Map C5.

DESIGN AND HOME ACCESSORIES

!Autoría BsAs Autoría is an eclectic mix of thoroughly Argentinian art and design.

Elementos Argentinos (see p110).

Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014 95

Shopping

Leather, silver, maté gourds; you’ve probably seen those items on tourist souvenir lists. But there’s far more to the Buenos Aires shopping scene than traditional crafts (though of course they do make a roaring trade): porteñas and porteños aren’t afraid to push the fashion envelope wide-open. Bright colours, tight leggings, platform shoes and loud jewellery are fairly common sights on the street (and no, that doesn’t just go for the ladies).

You might be wondering why, in a country with such economic instability, so many porteños seem to be carrying a shopping bag of freshly purchased designer goodies. Well, ridiculous inflation rates makes hoarding pesos in a savings account ill-advised; so why not spend them instead?

Nonetheless, not everyone has such a thick stack of bills to expend. BA shops generally tend to the expensive side, meaning creating an affordable, stylish is wardrobe no easy task, but there are stores whose price tags don't occupy only the four-digit range (see p100 Five of the best). If you’ve crossed hemispheres to come to Buenos Aires, be sure to take advantage of the off-season sales to pick up some cheap items to wear back home. Of course, there’s nothing wrong with getting a few cosy sweaters to endure the BA winter during your stay (see p109 Four of the best).

And if you came to Argentina looking for those oft-mentioned traditional goods, don’t miss the city’s outstanding street markets (see p112), where you’ll find everything from antiques peddlers, to tango dancers and food vendors.

The store has a bit of everything; an art gallery, maté gourds, calendars, notebooks, as well as fashion and accessories. Browse through carefully selected, high quality garments from fashion designers like Benedit Bis, bags and accessories from the likes of Neumática and Perfectos Dragones, and jewellery from Juana Maraña and Marina Massone.

Suipacha 1025, entre Avenida Santa Fe y Marcelo T de Alvear (5252 2474/ www.autoriabsas.com.ar). Subte C, San Martín/bus 10, 111. Open 9.30am8pm Mon-Fri; 10am-2pm, 4-8pm Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D5.

FASHION – BOUTIQUES

Shopping

Puntos en el Espacio Visit this ample, well-laid-out space for clothing for guys and girls, plus pretty underwear, bags, accessories and footwear from talented young designers. Time Out loves the colourful metallic jewellery by Paula Pizani and the psychedelic trainers by Puro. This shop is always buzzing with hip young things examining the rails of comfy basics and imaginative, slickly designed clubwear from labels like Jimena Anastasio and Esoteria.

Carlos Calvo 450, entre Defensa y Bolívar (4307 7906/www. puntosenelespacio.com.ar). Bus 10, 22, 29, 126. Open 11am-8pm daily.

Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map B4.

Other location Avenida Independencia 402, San Telmo (4307 5665).

FASHION – VINTAGE

Papelera Palermo (see p102).

stocks unusual and eclectic pieces bound to bring character to even the dullest sitting room. Peruvian textiles sit side by side with oriental ebony and retro Louis Vuitton trunks. Take the time to browse through the store’s thrilling array of unorthodox objets.

Bethlem 427, entre Defensa y Bolívar (4307 6589). Bus 24, 29, 126, 195.

Open 10.30am-6.30pm daily. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map B4.

HB Antigüedades Stepping into this antiques emporium is like walking into a slightly over-furnished palace. It’s worth a look for the imposing centrepiece: a pink Italian chandelier that hangs regally from the lofty ceiling.

Defensa 1016, entre Humberto 1º y Carlos Calvo (4361 3325/www. hbantiques.com). Bus 24, 29, 152.

Open 10am-7pm Mon-Fri, Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map B4.

BOOKSHOPS

Fedro San Telmo This excellent shop stocks a good range of new English novels as well as art and assorted books and magazines.

Nip through to the back for CDs, children’s books and more, and note that the Wi-Fi here is on the house, as is the interesting programme of regular talks and readings.

Carlos Calvo 578, entre Bolívar y Perú (4300 7551/www.fedrosantelmo.com. ar). Bus 24, 29, 152, 195. Open noon-9pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map B4.

Walrus Books With over 5,000 titles in this shop’s eclectic range of used but good quality English books, you’re guaranteed to find something of interest, whether it’s classic or modern literature or non-fiction. The atmospheric shop is a great place to wile away an hour. The owners also run a language school in Palermo, offering courses for aspiring English teachers and translators. See www.thewalrusschool.com.

Estados Unidos 617, entre Perú y Chacabuco (4300 7135/www.walrusbooks.com.ar). Subte C, Independencia/ bus 24, 29, 60, 64. Open noon-8pm Tue-Sun. Credit MC, V. Map B4.

DESIGN AND HOME ACCESSORIES

Cualquier Verdura Like some fantastic white elephant stall, this shop unites the curious, the quirky and the kitsch. The capricious collection is arranged around the interior of a casa chorizo – a narrow house with an interior patio – and consists of many one-off, original pieces. One room is kitted out like a kitchen, with the household decor items that are for sale completing the look,

96 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014

while other rooms feature retro record players and toys for nostalgia fans.

The different coloured price tags are not randomly assigned, but indicate whether the product is new, locally made, or a vintage find. There’s even a category for pieces the owners are reluctant to see leave the store.

Humberto 1º 517, entre Bolívar y Perú (4300 2474/www.cualquierverdura. com.ar). Bus 10, 22, 29, 195. Open noon-8pm Thur-Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map B4.

Gil Antigüedades This store looks more like a costume museum than a shop at first glance.

The exceptionally genial owners María Inés and Héctor Horacio have had fashion superstars like John Galliano and Carolina Herrera turn up on their doorstep to browse the collection of over 6,000 pieces including clothing, jewellery, footwear, fans, parasols, trunks and figurines. No one with even a passing interest in fashion should think of leaving San Telmo without stopping off.

Humberto 1º 412, y Defensa (4361 5019/www.gilantiguedades.com.ar).

Bus 10, 22, 29, 126. Open 11am-1pm, 3-7pm Tue-Sat; 11am-7pm Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map B4.

Other location Estados Unidos 361, San Telmo (4362 7922), by appt only.

JEWELLERY

Marcelo Toledo One of the most respected jewellers in BA, Toledo is one of the favourites of the King of Spain and has also made pieces for Prince Charles and his mum.

Toledo’s ‘Evita’ collection featured more than 120 items including earrings, brooches and necklaces in silver and gold with precious stones, many of them replicas of pieces found in Eva Perón’s wardrobe.

Humberto 1º 462, entre Bolívar y Defensa (4362 0841/www. marcelotoledo.net). Subte Want more bookshop C, San Juan/bus 17, 64, recommendations?

93, 126, 129, 130, 143.

Check out the Around Town feature (see p114) Open 10.30am-5.30pm for information on BA’s Mon-Fri, Sun. Credit AmEx, V. Map B4. literary scene.

L’Ago L’Ago’s exquisite, witty window displays are enough to stop you in your tracks. Once inside, you can easily lose yourself in a world of eclectorama, from original vintage furniture and lighting fixtures to creative toys and art and design by the cream of Argentinian artists and product designers. Perfect for gift shopping: if you can’t find something in here then you’re simply not looking hard enough.

Defensa 970, entre Estados Unidos y Carlos Calvo (4362 4702/ www.lagosantelmo.com). Bus 24, 29, 74, 129, 130, 143, 152. Open 11am-8pm daily. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map B4.

TOP TIP!

Signos At this pint-sized shop-cumworkshop, just a hop, skip and a jump from Plaza Dorrego, jewellery designer Alberto Codiani busies himself making chunky silver pieces with precious and semi-precious stones, most originating from South America. Ranging from baroque to Indian in style, these beauties are perfect for women who dare to be different. It’s hard to choose just one

Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014 97

piece, so ask Alberto’s partner Laura for a helping hand. There’s also African decorative art and South American textiles for sale, but without a doubt it’s Alberto’s necklaces, rings and earrings that steal the show. Ask about his jewellery-making classes.

Carlos Calvo 428, y Defensa (mobile 15 5949 9193). Bus 10, 17, 24, 29.

Open 11am-7pm Mon-Fri; 11am-5pm Sat, Sun. No credit cards. Map B4.

Shopping

Recoleta and Barrio Norte

From chain stores on Avenida Santa Fe to budget-busting designers on the chic Avenida Alvear, Recoleta has plenty of clothing stores, the majority of which cater to a more mature and monied clientele. You’ll also find leather goods, chic home accessories and the colourful weekend craft market on Plaza Francia where you can pick up traditional gifts like maté gourds and belts.

SHOPPING CENTRES

Galería Bond Street A favourite with wannabe rebels and emo kids, this grungy galería on Avenida Santa Fe is home to everything from hip trainers and urban wear to bondage gear. Lucky Seven and American Tattoo, a favourite of Maradona, are just two of the many body art and piercing parlours to visit.

Avenida Santa Fe 1670, entre Montevideo y Rodríguez Peña. (www. galeriabondstreet.com). Subte D, Callao/ bus 10, 171. Open 11am-8pm Mon-Sat. Credit varies. Map E4.

Patio Bullrich This, the most luxurious of all BA’s

shopping centres, was once the city’s meat auction house. Elegant and upmarket, it is home to many local and international high-end stores including Trosman and Carolina Herrera, as well as an excellent delicatessen, Valenti.

Avenida del Libertador 750, entre Montevideo y Libertad (4814 7400/ www.shoppingbullrich.com.ar). Bus 17, 61, 130, 152. Open Shops 10am-9pm daily. Restaurants 10am-11pm daily.

Credit varies. Map E5.

Recoleta Mall This new shopping centre opposite Recoleta Cemetery houses all the top brands under the one roof, plus a ten-screen cinema complex.

Vicente López 2050, entre Uriburu y Junín (4808 0605/www.recoletamall. com.ar). Bus 10, 39, 93. Open Shops 10am-10pm daily. Restaurants 10am-midnight daily; 10am-2am Fri, Sat. Credit varies. Map E5.

ANTIQUES, ART AND COLLECTIBLES

Guevara Art Gallery The mother lode for lovers of art deco and art nouveau, this gallery has around 600 collector’s items from 1900 to 1970, including pieces from Eugenio Quarti and Carlos Zen. Arenales 1141, entre Libertad y Cerrito (4362 7718/www.guevaragallery.com).

Bus 60, 108, 152. Open 3-7pm Mon-Sat; 1.30-6.30pm Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D5.

Other locations Talcahuano 1217, Recoleta (4362 7718); Defensa 982, San Telmo (4362 2418); Balcarce 1084, San Telmo (4362 2418).

BOOKSHOPS

!Ateneo Grand Splendid Located in a lavish former theatre, El

Ateneo is, without a doubt, the city’s most beautiful bookshop. Bag a chair and browse book after book in the unique surroundings, or have a drink in the on-stage café.

Avenida Santa Fe 1860, entre Avenida Callao y Riobamba (4813 6052/www. tematika.com). Subte D, Callao/bus 10, 17, 39, 152. Open 9am-10pm Mon-Thur; 9am-midnight Fri, Sat; noon-10pm Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map E4.

Other location Florida 340, Microcentro (4325 6801).

DESIGN AND HOME ACCESSORIES

Fueguia If you think Chanel No. 5’s top note is overly bergamot and best left for a cup of Earl Grey, step into Fueguia, a sexy fragrance- and candle-making laboratory, where you can create your own bouquet. The store offers 100-plus temptations all sourced from ecofriendly materials. Jorge Luis Borges, Argentina’s most prolific writer, has inspired two scents: cedar-hued Pulpería No. 73 (based on a conversation between Borges and his character Ireneo Funes), and wood-and-leather scented Biblioteca de Babel No. 40 (reminiscent of a comfortable old study).

Avenida Alvear 1680, entre Montevideo y Rodriguez Peña (4311 5360/www.fueguia.com). Bus 17, 60, 92, 93, 124, 130. Open 11am-8pm daily. Credit MC, V. Map E5.

Wussmann This exclusive stationers stocks beautiful leather journals, notebooks, albums, writing implements and handcrafted paper featuring ancient prints. Be sure to ask about bookbinding and restoration services,

which are also available.

Rodríguez Peña 1399, y Juncal (4811 2444/www.wussmann.com/shop). Bus 10, 37, 101, 124. Open 10.30am-8pm, Mon-Fri; 11am-2pm Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map E5.

FASHION – CHAINS

Ayres This successful brand’s collections appeal to trend-conscious types seeking modern womenswear. For those who aren’t afraid to experiment there are plenty of playful pieces including flirty dresses, jackets and waistcoats with a hint of masculine styling, striped tops and chunky, high-heeled ankle boots. For more exclusive items, try the Blue Edition label, the brand’s collection of limited-edition garments.

Avenida Santa Fe 1931, entre Riobamba y Ayacucho (4816 7445/ www.ayres.com.ar). Bus 12, 39, 106, 132. Open 10am-8.30pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map E4.

Other locations El Salvador 4661, Palermo (4831 2020); Alto Palermo shopping centre, Palermo (5777 8228); and branches throughout the city.

Chocolate This popular store offers stylish essentials like Peruvian pima cotton tops and pretty voile blouses in flattering colours, as well as options for special occasions and on-trend accessories. Founded over 25 years ago, Chocolate has a loyal following and is known for its great quality items.

Avenida Santa Fe 1430, entre Uruguay y Paraná (4816 0153/www. chocolateargentina.com.ar). Bus 10, 29, 60, 152. Open 9.30am-8pm Mon-Fri; 9.30am-7pm Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D5.

Other locations Alto Palermo shopping centre, Palermo (5777 8238); Honduras 4928, Palermo (4833 3553).

Desiderata Known for its quality women’s wardrobe staples, this store bridges the gap that usually exists between high street and the remote designer.

Desiderata garments are comfortable, contemporary and on-trend, but always with a twist. Loose, lightweight knits are typical offerings, as are leather accessories, footwear and subtle prints.

If you are looking for a sleek blazer laced with elegant fabric, you will find it here. The focus is on good quality fabrics, with wool and silk mixes generally winning out over synthetics, and prices reflect this.

Avenida Callao y Avenida Santa Fe (4816 5361/www.desiderata.com.ar).

Subte D, Callao/bus 10, 124, 152.

Open 9.30am-8.30pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3.

Other locations Galerías Pacífico shopping centre, Microcentro (5555 5262); Alto Palermo shopping centre, Palermo (5777 8046).

Blackmamba (see p103).

98 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014

!Las Pepas An eclectic array of garments graces the rails at popular Las Pepas, though one mainstay of the brand’s collections is the range of leather outerwear and

store Abraxas (see p101).

Avenida Santa Fe 1270, entre Libertad y Talcahuano (4816 0451). Bus 5, 10, 39, 60, 111, 129, 132, 152.

Open 11am-8pm Mon-Sat. Credit varies. Map D5.

Shopping

Juan Pérez A used clothing megastore, Juan Pérez stocks a multitude of garments and accessories for women and men, from vintage Valentino to second-hand local labels like Kosiuko and María Cher.

The shop has a particularly large selection of items from the 1970s to the 1990s, and prices range from pocket change to serious investment.

Marcelo T de Alvear 1441, entre Paraná y Uruguay (4815 8442/www. vestitenjuanperez.blogspot.com). Bus 10, 39, 152. Open 11am-7pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, DC, MC, V. Map D5.

JEWELLERY

Wussman (see p98).

accessories. The large selection of leather jackets includes classic blousons and belted trenches, as well as pretty, feminine styles in sumptuously soft suede. Bags range from classic holdalls to dainty clutches, and footwear is also available.

Avenida Santa Fe 1631, entre Montevideo y Rodríguez Peña (4811 7887/www.laspepas.com.ar). Subte D, Callao/bus 10, 12, 17, 29, 39, 60, 108, 124, 132. Open 10am-8pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D5.

Other locations Alto Palermo shopping centre, Palermo (5777 8001); Paseo Alcorta shopping centre, Palermo (5777 6553); Gurruchaga 1573, Palermo (4833 0601).

FASHION – DESIGNER

Tramando Martín Churba, the innovative designer behind this celebrated label, whips up ingenious, eye-catching womenswear in a fusion of artistry and eccentricity.

Wacky weaving, abstract prints and fabrics with rubbery finishes are among the brand’s hallmarks, as is the combination of tradition and technology, with modern fabrics that feature details and print effects reminiscent of typical Argentinian woven textiles.

Rodríguez Peña 1973, entre Posadas y Avenida Alvear (4811 0465/www. tramando.com). Bus 17, 60, 67, 110, 124, 130. Open 10.30am-8.30pm Mon-Fri; 11am-7pm Sat Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map E5.

Other locations Paseo Alcorta shopping centre, Palermo (4803 5434); Honduras 4881, Palermo (4833 5955).

FASHION – BOUTIQUES

Biorder The ’80s never really ended for designer Ana Paula Ponce, whose love

of sequins, wide-cut sleeves and bold shoulders are evident in her fabulously original designs. Still, it’s not until you glimpse her accessories line – which features headbands with plastic animals perched on top – that you realise the full extent of Ponce’s wackiness. Half of her store is dedicated to vintage party dresses and dazzling tops.

Unit 19, Galería Patio del Liceo, Avenida Santa Fe 2729, entre Laprida y Anchorena (mobile 15 6139 4234/ www.biorder.com.ar). Subte D, Agüero/ bus 12, 29, 39, 41, 64, 68, 95, 111, 152. Open 3-8pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map E4.

Cultivo Diseño Though housed in an old-fashioned building with a marble staircase and antique elevator, Cultivo Diseño is all about what’s new. The boutique features independent Argentinian designers and is a snapshot of the latest in porteña street style. Playful graphic T-shirts, candy-coloured clutches, printed mini-dresses and platform shoes are displayed in various rooms, which are more reminiscent of a dressing-up box than a typical shop.

Get your platform shoes, pile on a few necklaces and step onto Avenida Santa Fe looking like a local.

Apartment 6, 2nd floor, Avenida Santa Fe 1731, y Rodríguez Peña (4812 0309/www.cultivodiseno.com. ar). Subte D, Callao/bus 39, 60, 75.

Open noon-8pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D4.

FASHION – MENSWEAR

La Dolfina This brand is perfect for polo-lovers, and its ambassador is star player Adolfo Cambiaso. The cotton polo shirts with La Dolfina’s logo are a

100 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014

must, and the casual trousers have a flattering fit. Sweaters, soft leather jackets and quality leather goods complete the look. There is also a range of professional equipment for those who play the sport.

Avenida Alvear 1751, entre Avenida Callao y Rodríguez Peña (4811 1066/ www.ladolfina.com). Bus 17, 60, 67, 93, 102. Open 10am-8pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D5.

Other location Martha Salotti 454, Puerto Madero (5787 5152).

FASHION – CHILDREN’S AND MATERNITY

Venga Madre Mums-to-be can choose from casual daytime attire and elegant, streamlined evening wear at this store located just off busy Avenida Santa Fe. Opt for something slinky yet stretchy, or wrap up in the cosy cardigans that are just as fabulous post-pregnancy. In a city obsessed with the smaller frame, this place is a real find.

Paraná 1052, entre Marcelo T de Alvear y Avenida Santa Fe (4813 0662/www.vengamadre.com.ar). Bus 10, 29. Open 11am-8pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D5.

Other locations La Pampa 2083, Belgrano (4785 0115); Viamonte 653, Microcentro (4394 0972).

FASHION – VINTAGE AND USED

Galería 5ta Avenida It’s not all about vintage at Galería 5ta (pronounced ‘quinta’ – fifth) Avenida, but that’s definitely one of the things this grungy mini-mall does best. Here, persistence pays off: for those prepared to rummage about there are great pieces to be found, from tooled leather bags to vintage sportswear. For vintage eyewear visit Óptica Nahuel at store number 38 (4811 2837), and for rare vinyl, check out the fabulous record

Oleana Designer Yanina Faour creates bold rings in a variety of styles ranging from cocktail-party bling and corporate-climber modernism, to resplendent art deco. The Mandala line, for instance, features stunning mosaicked pendants and earrings that resemble stained glass, while the playful Organic collection offers octopus rings and dragonfly necklaces.

Yanina can also create custom designs, and has a men’s line too.

Avenida Callao 1880, entre Avenida

Five of the best Style on a budget

1

Greens Unit 7, Galería Patio del Liceo, Avenida Santa Fe 2729 (4827 1482/www.greenss.com.ar) Find soft T-shirts, A-line dresses, well-made jeans and linen bags at this shop for men and women.

2

Them Malabia 1924 (3535 0346/ www.somosthem.com) The trendy, flashy, but high-quality designer duds here are an absolute steal in the end-of-season sale.

3

El Buen Orden Local 6, Carlos Calvo 461 (mobile 15 5936 2820) A San Telmo staple for well-priced vintage apparel and accessories.

4

Zara Avenida Santa Fe 1937 (4816 8600/www.zara.com) The fast-fashion megabrand can be found in every stylish BA girl’s or guy’s wardobe; of course that also means the shop is always packed.

5

Juana de Arco El Salvador 4762 (4833 1621/ www.juanadearco.net) If you like the quirky prints and textiles found upstairs, you’ll love the downstairs outlet, where prices are slashed as much as 50%.

Alvear y Quintana (mobile 15 3431 5213/www.oleana.com.ar). Bus 10, 60, 93. Open 11am-7pm Mon-Fri. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map E5.

LEATHER GOODS

Rossi & Caruso Make like the Spanish royal family and visit this store for classic handbags, briefcases and a host of other leather goods, from wallets and belts to saddles and riding crops. There are plenty of leather jacket styles including trenchcoats for men and traditional, quilted suede waistcoats for women.

Lizard-skin shoes for women and classic Chelsea boots for men are just some of the footwear options available, and the range of unique accessories includes crocodile-leather belts and fur-lined leather gloves.

Posadas 1387 & 1379, entre Rodríguez Peña y Montevideo (4811 1965/www. rossicaruso.com). Bus 10, 17, 60, 67, 93, 130. Open 10am-8pm Mon-Fri; 10am-7pm Sat; 11am-6pm Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map E5.

Other locations Recoleta Mall, Recoleta (4806 1935); Galerías Pacífico shopping centre, Microcentro (5555 5308).

place for special gifts for your loved ones – with excellent quality leather goods and engraved steak knives.

Ayacucho 1924, entre Avenida Alvear y Quintana (4800 1575/www.arandu. com.ar). Bus 10, 17, 59, 110, 124.

Open 9am-8.30pm daily. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map E5.

Other locations Talcahuano 949, Tribunales (4816 1281); Paraguay 1259, Tribunales (4816 3689).

Palermo

Trendy Palermo is one of the city’s creative hubs. A hotbed for artists and designers of all disciplines, it has Abraxas plenty of hip clothing and This miniscule music store is design stores dotted legendary. For almost around its attractive three decades, owner streets, mainly on Style file Fernando Pau has been Honduras and helping rock ’n’ roll fans Need a wardrobe overhaul?

Gurruchaga near Call friendly British expat get their jam on with a Sophie Lloyd of Shop Hop Plaza Serrano. The selection of CDs and BA (www.shop-buenosaires. area is ideal for LPs that includes both shopping, strolling com) for a customised output from relatively and soaking up the shopping tour. unknown groups and atmosphere. There are coveted collectors’ items. also weekend markets on There is also a selection of books, both Plaza Serrano and Plaza DVDs and memorabilia.

Armenia selling jewellery, paintings, Local 74-79, Galería 5ta Avenida, sunglasses and cheaper clothes.

Avenida Santa Fe 1270 (4815 7160/ www.abraxasdiscos.com.ar). Bus 10, SHOPPING CENTRES 39, 152. Open 11am-8.30pm Mon-Fri; Alto Palermo noon-8.30pm Sat. No credit cards.

The ever-popular Alto Palermo Map D5. contains many of Argentina’s top chains including Ayres, Chocolate and TRADITIONAL CRAFTS Bensimon. Those prone to Arandú claustrophobia can escape the crowds You’ll find everything you need here to of consumers in the cafés upstairs. kit yourself out as a hard-bitten Avenida Santa Fe 3253, entre Coronel gaucho: the saddle, the riding boots, Díaz y Bulnes (5777 8000/www. the hats and the maté gourd. In terms altopalermo.com.ar). Subte D, Bulnes/ of souvenir hunting, this is decidedly bus 15, 39, 64, 152. Open 10am-10pm daily. Credit varies. Map F4. upmarket merchandise – it’s a spot-on MUSIC

TOP TIP!

Paseo Alcorta The upmarket Paseo Alcorta is often considered BA’s most pleasant mall. It contains a gigantic Carrefour hypermarket as well as quality clothing shops including Penguin, local menswear brand Bensimon and a branch of Argentinian designer Martín Churba’s Tramando (see p100).

Salguero 3172, y Figueroa Alcorta (5777 6500/www.paseoalcorta.com.ar).

Bus 67, 130. Open Shops 10am-10pm daily. Restaurants 10am-11pm daily.

Credit varies. Map G5.

BOOKSHOPS

!Dain Usina Cultural An identity crisis (is it a bookshop? A café? A live music venue? A bar?) doesn’t detract from the fact that this corner locale is one of Palermo’s most inviting spaces. It specialises in hardback design and travel tomes, with a small selection of English-language titles, and its book launches and free live music events draw in a sedate crowd most evenings. When you’ve had your fill of browsing, retreat to the roof terrace to sip mojitos.

Nicaragua 4899, y Thames (4778 3554/www.dainusinacultural.com).

Subte D, Plaza Italia/bus 34, 55. Open 10.30am-9pm Tue-Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3.

Libros del Pasaje The walls of this shop are crammed with books ranging from English literature to Argentinian art and design. The fabulous coffee-table books and quirky little souvenir editions make great gifts, and there’s a very pleasant café at the back of the store for a pick-me-up cortado.

Thames 1762, y Pasaje Russel (4833 6637/www.librosdelpasaje.com.ar).

Subte D, Plaza Italia/bus 34, 39, 55.

Santesteban Beautifully crafted handbags and women’s footwear are offered at Verónica Santesteban’s store in the exclusive Galería Promenade shopping arcade. The impressive, wide range of exotic materials includes stingray and crocodile skin, supple leather and the softest of furs, and horn and precious stones are used in the detailing. As you’d expect with this quality of product, every piece is handmade by skilled artisans.

Galería Promenade, Avenida Alvear 1883, entre Avenida Callao y Ayacucho (4800 1174/www.santesteban.net). Bus 17, 92, 93. Open 10am-8pm Mon-Fri; 10am-6pm Sat. Credit AmEx, DC, MC, V. Map E5.

SHOES – WOMEN’S

Comme Il Faut Hidden away in a peaceful lane, famous Comme Il Faut offers beautifully made tango shoes. The technical part of the design makes the footwear ideal for even the most demanding dancer, and

28 Sport (see p108).

Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014 101

Shopping

Peter Kent Founded in 1972, Peter Kent is one of the city’s best luxury brands. Season after season its high-quality classic bags, both practical and stylish, have proven capable of accompanying any outfit. But even so, you won’t be able to resist splashing out on the new shades and styles also offered. If you’re looking for a smaller slice of designer luxury, snap up a purse, wallet, laptop bag or passport holder.

Arenales 1210, y Libertad (4815 6581/ www.peterkent.com.ar). Bus 10, 17, 39.

Open 10am-8pm Mon-Fri; 10am-2pm Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D5.

Other locations Avenida Alvear 1820, Recoleta (4804 7264); Paseo Alcorta shopping centre, Palermo (4806 5442).

the aesthetic element ensures that these stunning shoes are coveted by both tangueras and tourists. The stylish boutique is an experience in itself, as there are very few shoes on display to browse; instead customers describe the style and colour they prefer and wait on plush sofas as box after box of delicate heels are brought out to try on.

Apartment M, Rue des Artisans, Arenales 1239, entre Libertad y Talcahuano (4815 5690/www. commeilfaut.com.ar). Bus 39, 70, 108, 152. Open 11am-7pm Mon-Fri; 11am-3pm Sat. Credit MC, V. Map D5.

Open 10am-10pm Mon-Sat; 2-9pm Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3.

De la Ostia For the clubber by night, flower child by day, De la Ostia is the attire of choice for the experimental twentysomething. Glam jackets and sequinned miniskirts are made for getting elegantly wasted in, while lacy, draped tops and T-shirts with beaded detailing give a ’70s flashback to a stroll in the park. Argentinian designer Lola Canavosio likes her tones monochrome or muted and she also does a range of jeans and footwear to complete the look.

El Salvador 4627, entre Armenia y Malabia (4833 3468/www.delaostia. net). Bus 15, 39, 110, 140, 151, 160.

Open 11am-8pm Mon-Sat; noon-8pm Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2.

Other locations Paseo Alcorta shopping centre, Palermo (4833 3468); Maure 1538, Belgrano (4777 8906).

Shopping

DESIGN AND HOME ACCESSORIES

Amazonia Almanatura All things zen can be found in this peaceful showroom in Palermo Hollywood. The warm, delicious incense and natural oils penetrate this humble apartment. The collection features a wide range of products (and prices) to suit all kinds of consumers. Keeping true to its name, Amazonia features an Aloe Vera beauty line, yoga mats and a range of gorgeous organic cotton comfortable clothing that is as soft on the eye as it is to touch. The designers work with meditative phrases that inspire some encouraging words of wisdom so pick up a crystal kit and keep those chakras in line.

Apartment 804, 8th floor, Honduras 6080, entre Dorrego y Arévalo (4475 1919/www.amazoniaalmanatura.com).

Bus 39, 108, 111, 140, 152. Open 11am-7pm Mon-Fri. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H2.

Papelera Palermo With pretty handmade paper, cards and envelopes in all shapes, sizes and textures, this super stationer’s is an absolute joy to behold. An impressive array of design and art books is further inspiration to take up a craft, and if you do, Papelera Palermo offers workshops including bookbinding, printing, origami, caligraphy, paper making, drawing and painting, all at very reasonable prices.

Cabrera 5227, entre Uriarte y Godoy Cruz (4833 3081/www.papelera palermo.com.ar). Bus 39, 55, 168.

Open 10am-8pm Mon-Fri; 11am-8pm Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2.

Paul A visit to this lovely shop is bound to inspire a spot of interior decorating in even the most undomesticated of folk.

Walk down the passageway filled with sweet-smelling plants to the shop at the end, where you’ll find tasteful homeware items to ‘ooh’ and ‘ahh’ over; from Union Jack cushions and pretty bedspreads to bathroom goodies and a host of glassware and kitchen utensils.

Larger pieces like wardrobes are also in stock, and to decorate gardens or balconies there are dinky watering cans, plant pots and birdhouses that are just the right side of twee. An adjoining store sells Inés Berton’s Tealosophy teas.

Gorriti 4865, entre Armenia y Gurruchaga (4833 2209/www.pauldeco. com). Bus 15, 55, 140. Open 11am-8pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2.

Pehache Set in a renovated antique house in the heart of Palermo, Pehache (as in PH, which stands for propiedad horizontal) is one of those concept stores that even shopping phobes could spend hours in.

Not only are you tempted to buy every item (though the price tags do require self-control), but it’s all so prettily laid out that you’re almost afraid to pick things

Recommended Miki & Choya

Inés Figueroa Alcorta’s boutique shoe line started business a little over a year ago and these shoes are alredy a huge hit with local celebrities and the city’s coolest fashionistas. Inés mixes quirky patterns, fabrics and embellishments to create some rather sassy porteño brogues, boots and sandals. Elaborate details make an everyday pair of ballet flats or loafers an extra special buy. Ugarteche 3306, entre Seguí y Avenida del Libertador (mobile 15 6299 1593/www.mikichoya.com.ar). Bus 10, 37, 60, 110. Open 2-8pm Mon-Fri by appt only. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G5.

up. Almost. Items like hand-painted penguin-shaped jugs and stand-alone baths are all by local designers and hand-picked by the two sisters who own the shop. Everything is for sale, including the chairs in the changing room and the paintings on the walls. The patio doubles as a café selling fruit juices, sandwiches and salads.

Gurruchaga 1418, entre Cabrera y Gorriti (4832 4022/www.pehache.com).

Bus 151. Open 11am-8pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2.

Sabater Hermanos Run by the third generation of Sabater family soap makers, this funky shop/ workshop is a soap version of a pick ’n’ mix counter. With coloured soap flakes, cookie-cutter shapes, golf balls and ‘hundreds and thousands’ of scented soaps behind the garden variety bar, there are plenty of choices. Rebels may gravitate to the Black Sabbath or marijuana leaf squares, while those who get their kicks in less gritty ways may chuckle at the wholesome soapcakes bearing Spanish phrases like ‘Doesn’t wash your conscience’.

Gurruchaga 1821, entre Costa Rica y Nicaragua (4833 3004/www.shnos.com.

102 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014

ar). Bus 15, 34, 36, 39, 55, 110, 111, 141, 151, 160. Open 10am-8pm Mon-Sat; 2-8pm Sun. No credit cards. Map G3.

FASHION – CHAINS

AY Not Dead Anglophile, punk-inspired sisters Noel and Angie honed their craft at London’s Central Saint Martin’s College, and do a steady trade in skinny jeans and leather jackets for the young, self-conscious hipster.

The aesthetic is wedged somewhere between rock-star chic and understated streetwear, and splashes of lurex, velvet and tough embellishments grace pieces which move seamlessly between day and night. This once-underground label is now fully above ground with outlets across the city and abroad (the label has even popped up in Selfridges department store in London).

Gurruchaga 1637, entre Pasaje Santa Rosa y Honduras (4833 2999/www. aynotdead.com.ar). Bus 15, 34, 39, 55, 57, 140, 151, 168. Open 10.30am8pm Mon-Sat; 2-8pm Sun. Credit AmEx, V, MC. Map G2.

Other location Paseo Alcorta shopping centre, Palermo (5777 6655).

María Cher Argentinian María Cherñajovsky’s collections combine feminine pieces like silk-mix tunics and modern minidresses with trousers and jackets clearly influenced by menswear. Her bold, oversized designs are heavily influenced by blacks and whites that are staples of all the ranges, though striking colours and bright and wild prints are introduced each season.

El Salvador 4724, entre Armenia y Gurruchaga (4833 4736/ www.maria-cher.com.ar). Bus 34, 55, 57, 106, 151, 160, 168. Open 10am-8pm Mon-Fri; 10am-9pm Sat; 2-7.30pm Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3.

Other location Paseo Alcorta shopping centre, Palermo (5777 6541).

Paula Cahen D’Anvers An unstructured look and a potpourri of pretty, comfortable separates are the secret to this brand’s success. Think flirty model type raiding her boyfriend’s wardrobe for an oversized white shirt to team with her lacetrimmed cotton camisole and culottes, to get an idea of the brand’s aesthetic.

There are preppy items with a touch of masculine tailoring but the collections are always decidedly feminine, with floral motifs and broderie anglaise frequently recurring. These are garments that will slot into most wardrobes, though prices may make you pause before purchasing.

Alto Palermo shopping centre, Avenida Santa Fe 3253, entre Coronel Díaz y Bulnes (5777 8227/www. paulacahendanvers.com.ar). Subte D, Bulnes/bus 12, 39, 152. Open 10am-10pm daily. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map F4.

Other locations Honduras 4888, Palermo (4833 6655); Paseo Alcorta shopping centre, Palermo (5777 6537); and branches throughout the city.

Rapsodia This popular local brand takes international trends and gives them a bohemian twist, mixing shabby chic with sophisticated hippy. Sumptuous velvets, delicate gauzy material and the softest pima cotton are some of the fabrics used. In keeping with the

brand’s aesthetic, there are plenty of clashing, bright patterns as well as an overdose of embellishments from lace trims to embroidery and sequins.

There’s also an abundance of fringed scarves and ethnic-inspired accessories.

Honduras 4872, entre Gurruchaga y Armenia (4831 6333/www. rapsodia.com.ar). Bus 15, 57, 93.

Open 10am-9pm daily. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3.

Other locations Andrés Arguibel 2899, Las Cañitas (4772 2716); and branches throughout the city.

Shopping

Vitamina Silk tops, buttery smooth leather jackets and draped T-shirts in the softest of yarns: Vitamina’s clothes are luxuriously touchy-feely. Designer Silvia Ortiz has cornered the market for the sophisticated girly girl, and her elegant-yet-relaxed pieces are dreamy enough to float away in.

El Salvador 4757, entre Gurruchaga y Armenia (4897 2180/www.vitamina. com.ar). Bus 15, 55, 168. Open 10am-8pm daily. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2.

Other locations Alto Palermo shopping centre, Palermo (4508 2211); Galerías Pacífico shopping centre, Microcentro (5555 5245).

Cora Groppo Cora Groppo is known for her flowing forms and love of layering, and the use of textural details such as ruching and piping in her garments. Unlike some of the more eye-searing colours found in BA boutiques, here the palate is made of muted, chic neutrals. There’s plenty of visual interest to be found in Groppo’s use of leather, plastic chains and other textural details, giving structure to her soft, unusual shapes.

Fine knits are a key element of Groppo’s collections and make excellent wardrobe basics.

El Salvador 4657, y Armenia (4833 7474/www.coragroppo.com). Bus 15, 39, 55, 110, 140, 141, 151, 168.

Open 10.30am-8.30pm Mon-Sat; 2-7pm Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3.

Other location Uruguay 1296, Recoleta (4815 8516).

Cubreme Fashion designer Alejandra Gottelli does her bit for the planet – and the local economy – by supporting Argentinian farmers, sourcing organic wool from Patagonian sheep and llamas from San Luis, as well as chemical-free cotton from Chaco. The yarns are woven into the softest of fabrics and hand-tailored into classic yet contemporary winter coats, FASHION – DESIGNER silk-blend scarves and slip dresses in Blackmamba Perhaps you already knew Argentina is earthy, neutral tones. The boutique also the place to buy leather goods, but you carries an adorable line of organic cotton baby clothes by Chunchino and probably didn’t count on anything a homeware line. quite as cool as this. Designer Bianca Godoy Cruz 1720, entre Siconolfi manages the rare feat Honduras y Gorriti (4832 of turning goth style into 5176/www.cubreme. high fashion with com). Bus 34, 39, 140, quality pieces like 168. Open 12.30‘Tienen Tax Free?’ leather jackets, studded Purchase from a store that 7.30pm Mon-Sat. handbags and bold participates in the Global Credit AmEx, MC, V. shoes as well as Refund system, and you can Map G2.

T-shirts and chunky ask for a tax refund cheque, knits. Daring detailing to be redeemed at the Dubié like a ribcage stitched airport.

This is one onto the back of a independent fashion house leather jacket comes off as you should definitely not be cheeky rather than creepy, while a dubious of. The discrete storefront tarnished-silver tarantula necklace is does not scream out for attention on the edgy piece you didn’t know your wardrobe needed. With both menswear passing, but stop in once and you’ll visit time and time again. The and womenswear, this shop is a must collection has a select range of heels, for the cutting-edge fashionista. boots and women’s clothing all Soler 4502, y Malabia (4832 5083/ handmade from luxurious materials www.beblackmamba.com). Bus 15, 39, like white leather and pony hair, a 141, 160. Open 11am-8pm Mon-Sat. testament to the craftsmanship at Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3.

Dubié. The label’s chic versatility means you’ll be able to wear the pieces Cecilia Gadea on just about any occasion. Think Cecilia Gadea’s pieces are consistently blacks, whites, navy blues and neutrals whimsical and feminine, without ever made with gorgeous linens and raw crossing the line into juvenile or frilly. textures. The pointed backless heels Gadea’s background in both graphic are selling like hot cakes here in BA. design and fashion translates into República de la India 3139, y Seguí laser-cut lace and custom textiles that (4807 3890/www.dubie.com). Bus 37, turn her wardrobe essentials into anything but basic. Wearable dresses 57, 128. Open 12.30-7.30pm Mon-Sat. come with dreamy flounced layers, and Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2. delicate lacy collars help old shirts look like new. Located just steps from Plaza Garza Lobos Serrano, this is a fashion retreat from Garza Lobos has been causing quite a the bustle of beer-stained bars. stir on the city’s fashion circuit since its Serrano 1536, y Honduras (4831 womenswear collection debuted at 5930/www.ceciliagadea.com). Bus 15, 2011’s spring/summer Buenos Aires 39. Open 2-7.30pm Mon-Fri; 1-5pm Fashion Week. The label’s ultraSat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2. feminine threads and signature

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Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014 103

Shopping

marbled print have struck a chord with a fashion-forward crowd, as has its experimental use of exotic animal fibres including llama, chinchilla and guanaco. The spacious boutique, in a converted old Palermo house, pairs a minimalist aesthetic with the building’s original charm.

El Salvador 4734, entre Gurruchaga y Armenia (4833 5280/www.garzalobos. com). Bus 39, 160. Open 11am-8pm Mon-Sat; 2-8pm Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3.

Mariana Dappiano Rather than trying to chase current trends, designer Mariana Dappiano remains faithful to her own classic aesthetic, producing clothing for mature women with a strong sense of personal style and an appreciation for quality and originality. Unstructured, organic forms dominate Dappiano’s collections with details such as draped necklines and asymmetrical sleeves.

She plays with the juxtaposition of striking colours and unique textiles to create truly authentic garments.

Gurruchaga 1755, entre Costa Rica y El Salvador (4833 4731/www. dappianostore.com.ar). Bus 15, 34, 39, 55, 57, 110, 141, 161. Open 11am-8pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3.

Trosman Combining creativity and craftsmanship, Trosman produces original womenswear for adventurous spirits. The enveloping, asymmetrical garments, which often feature textural embellishment, have been celebrated both at home and abroad; and if you want to play it safe in well-fitting basics, the stores have been cited as some of the city’s best for finding that perfect pair of jeans.

Paseo Alcorta shopping centre, Salguero 3172, y Avenida Figueroa Alcorta (5777 6595/www.trosman.com. ar). Bus 67, 102, 130. Open 10am-10pm daily. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G5.

Other location Patio Bullrich shopping centre, Recoleta (4814 7411).

El Salvador 4663, entre Armenia y Malabia (4833 3360/www.vevu.com).

Bus 15, 39, 55, 141, 160. Open 11am8pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2.

Other location Avenida Las Heras 3896, Recoleta (4807 8094).

FASHION – BOUTIQUES

Vestite y Andate Amores Trash Couture Luxury fabrics and graphic prints are Fans of 1980s fashion should make the hallmarks of the chic statement sure to stop by this space for party pieces dreamed up by Agustina dresses and sexy separates, Bengolea and Clara Campagnola. particularly influenced by BA’s 1980s These two designers understand trash fashion moment. Lace, what it means to play with leopard, and metallics are fabrics; frocks made plentiful but modified from shimmery velvet to fit modern trends. and the softest of New Palermo That doesn’t mean suede, silk tops that Go beyond Palermo Soho they’ve lost their flashy, drape just so and boutiques and venture into attention-grabbing colourful woollen vests Palermo Chico for shops edge though; mixing that effortlessly flatter like Dubié (see p103) and these pieces into your the female form are Tupã (Lafinur 3132). wardrobe will help you embellished with pops turn heads on the street of chiffon, mesh and lurex. or on the dancefloor. Head Nicaragua 4604, entre upstairs to check out the selection Gurruchaga y Armenia (3532 2495/ of vintage clothing and accessories, www.vestiteyandate.net). Bus 15, 39, which isn’t all exclusively ’80s-centric.

55, 110, 141, 160. Open 11am-8pm Mon-Fri; noon-8pm Sat. Credit AmEx, Ángel Carranza 1979, entre Costa Rica y Nicaragua (4775 3601/www.

MC, V. Map G3. amorestrashcouture.com.ar). Bus 39, Other location Arenales 1782, 57, 93, 95, 108, 111, 166. Open Recoleta (4811 1350).

11am-7pm Mon-Fri; 1-7pm Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H3.

Vevû Other location Pasaje Santa Rosa Vevû’s Palermo boutique houses an ultra-feminine collection, ranging from 4909, Palermo (5294 7043). demure pastel blouses and 1950s-style Casa Chic strapless dresses to classic black and The floral decor, delicate knitwear and white numbers. Designer Sandra perfumed aromatic candles give Casa Delelis’s tactic is to take high fashion Chic a quintessentially romantic air. trends and rework them into wearable This delicate and on-trend boutique pieces designed to accommodate even carries, on the fashion side of things, a the most voluptuous of curves. range of suede leggings and edgy tiger Jumpsuits, flapper-style dresses and print T-shirts. On the home side, at the vintage-inspired pendants are all back of the store you can find a must-have items.

Patrón (see p106).

104 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014

TOP TIP!

delicate range of pastel porcelains and Cath Kidston-style prints to update any kitchen affair.

El Salvador 4786, entre Armenia y Gurruchaga (4897 2040/www.casachic. com). Bus 15, 34, 39, 57, 140. Open 10am-8.30pm Mon-Sat; 12.30-8.30pm Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3.

Lupe Fans of French brand Comptoir des Cotonniers should visit this Palermo store for a local take on understated femininity with a touch of rock chic.

The bright, spacious outlet is the perfect place to pick up pretty daywear in fabrics like washed silk and pure wool, and knowledgeable staff can help you select an original piece for a more formal occasion.

El Salvador 4666, entre Armenia y Malabia (4832 6743/www.lupeba.com. ar). Bus 15, 39, 55, 110, 140, 141, 151, 168. Open 11am-8pm Mon-Sat; 2-8pm Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3.

Other location Paseo Alcorta shopping centre, Palermo (5777 6614). !Pesqueira If fictitious figures from French films were to hit the streets of BA on a shopping spree, Pesqueira would be Amélie’s first port of call. Innocent insouciance reigns at designer Valeria Pesqueira’s Palermo store. The pretty womenswear collections, full of sweet, feminine garments that are both classic and modern, are designed for the young at heart. Animal prints and marine-inspired stripes are popular, and Pesqueira’s exclusively designed naïve-style motifs abound. There is a wonderful collection of designer sneakers that are the perfect memorabilia from this kitsch corner store, while the printed laptop bags are indispensable for any modern ingénue.

Gurruchaga 1750, y Pasaje Russel (4833 7218/www.pesqueiratm.com).

Bus 15, 34, 39, 55, 110. Open 11am-8pm Mon-Sat; 2-7pm Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2.

FASHION – MENSWEAR

Bensimon Bensimon’s sophisticated take on casual cool is perfect for metrosexual types looking for toned down but trendy gear. Slim-fitting trousers and T-shirts, lightweight knits and skimpy leather jackets are ideal for lean-bodied twentysomethings keen to attain an unfussy, informal look.

Honduras 4876, entre Armenia y Gurruchaga (4833 6857/www. bensimon.com.ar). Bus 15, 39, 55, 140, 160. Open 11am-8.30pm Mon-Sat; 2-8.30pm Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2.

Other locations Quintana 492, Recoleta (4807 5218); Alto Palermo shopping centre, Palermo (5777 8011); and branches throughout the city.

Bolivia If you’re the type to carry a manbag and you don’t mind having your sexuality speculated upon, have a gander at the garments at Bolivia.

Floral print shirts and shockingly bright knitwear are a far cry from macho menswear; and don’t be fooled by the dark pinstripe suits – though they may appear relatively tame on the outside, the leopard print linings are anything but subtle. If you find that your outfit still requires that extra je ne sais quoi, accessorise with a printed scarf or a brightly coloured tote. The brand offers equally bold womenswear and childrenswear lines as well.

Gurruchaga 1581, entre Gorriti y Honduras (4832 6284/www. boliviaonline.com.ar). Bus 34, 39, 55, 140, 151, 168. Open 11am-8pm Mon-Fri; 11am-9pm Sat; 3-8pm Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2.

Other location Thames y Nicaragua, Palermo (4832 6409); Costa Rica 4672, Palermo (4831 0478).

Bowen Boys who are into the retro-chic look will love London-inspired Bowen. The look is both soft and hard, with biker jackets, leather boots, cotton hoodies and T-shirts among the mix. With an extensive denim line and plenty of the latest trends, it’s a top spot to pick up

Etiqueta Negra From the impressive window displays to the vintage motorbike inside the store, Etiqueta Negra oozes elegance.

Cultivate effortless chic with slick suits and Italian cotton shirts – ideal for aspiring Clooney types – or buy yourself a bit of old-school cool, Steve McQueen style, with the brand’s subtly worn-in jeans, timeless T-shirts, cashmere-mix knitwear and silky soft leather jackets. All perfect for the refined rebel with a healthy bank balance. There’s also a small smartcasual range for women.

Honduras 4850, entre Gurruchaga y Armenia (4833 2474/www. etiquetanegra.us). Bus 15, 34, 39, 55, 110, 111, 141, 151. Open 10am8.30pm Mon-Fri; 10am-9pm Sat; 1-8pm Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2.

Other locations Patio Bullrich shopping centre, Recoleta (4814 7430); Arguibel 2835, Las Cañitas (4776 9818).

Shopping

Seco Seco’s fun reversible rain macs are designed to reflect your mood, even if it’s prone to swings. Colourful floral prints on one side are bound to perk you up, while the plain reverse is a little more low-key. There is also a small range of T-shirts and dresses with cute motifs for those who want to enjoy Seco’s aesthetic on dry days.

Wellington boots, trainers, hats and, of course, umbrellas are also stocked.

Armenia 1646, entre El Salvador y Honduras (4833 1166/www. secorainwear.com). Bus 15, 34, 39, 110, 151. Open 10am-8pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3.

urban casual wear, with a rock ’n’ roll edge sure to boost your sex appeal.

Gurruchaga 1548, y Pasaje Soria (4831 1710/www.bowenlondon.com.ar).

Bus 15, 34, 39, 55, 140, 151, 168.

Open 11am-8pm Mon-Sat; 2-8pm Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2.

Other locations Abasto shopping centre, Abasto (4959 3629); Alto Palermo shopping centre, Palermo (5777 8254); Paseo Alcorta shopping centre, Palermo (5777 6580); Galerías Pacífico shopping centre, Microcentro (5555 5310).

Félix Félix’s minimalistic new store on calle Honduras perfectly complements the brand’s neat-street style. Founded by Martín Egozcue, the label has drawn comparisons to English designer Paul Smith and has established a following among hip types happy to spend time and cash cultivating an image of effortless cool. If you’ve dreamed of being snapped by a street-style spotter, hotfoot it down to this store, then work on the art of loitering decoratively.

Honduras 4916, y Gurruchaga (4832 2164/www.felixba.com.ar). Bus 15, 39, 110, 160. Open 11am-8pm Mon-Sat; 2.30-8pm Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2.

Other locations Factory outlet, Godoy Cruz 1645, Palermo (4833 1444); Paseo Alcorta shopping centre, Palermo (5777 6593).

Hermanos Estebecorena Display units from the 1950s and retro letter boards make HE’s flagship in Palermo Hollywood one of the coolest shops in the city, while the functional, modern menswear is making waves worldwide. Hidden pockets and adjustable cuffs are just some of the clothes’ features, and the range of accessories is full of equally clever elements: there are reversible belts and and cotton underwear with just one seam (one of the house specialities). Go for casual cool with multi-purpose trousers and leather jackets.

El Salvador 5960, entre Ravignani y Arévalo (4772 2145/ www.hermanosestebecorena.com).

Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014 105

El Salvador 4742, entre Armenia y Gurruchaga (4833 3313/www.felixba. com.ar). Bus 15, 34, 39, 55, 110, 140.

Open 11am-8pm Mon-Sat; 2.30-7.30pm Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3.

Other location Paseo Alcorta shopping centre, Palermo (5777 6593).

FASHION – VINTAGE AND USED

Shopping

Bimba Vintage Helmed by porteña actress Jazmín Rodríguez, this Palermo showroom is a sanctuary for vintage-lovers. Anyone who knows the work involved in hunting down a quality second-hand garment will appreciate the care Rodríguez has put into to curating her store, which is stocked with mintcondition items. Printed blouses, fringed dresses, snakeskin clutches and an assortment of fabulous costume jewellery are just a few of the finds you can stumble upon here, along with a few designer names on the racks for the label hounds.

Address provided at time of booking (mobile 15 5473 5419/bimbavintage. wix.com). Bus 39, 110, 140. Open By appt only. No credit cards. Map F3.

JEWELLERY

What began as an industrial design project at the University of Buenos Aires has morphed into a stylish, successful business. The woodenframed sunglasses at Palo Santo (named after a type of wood indigenous to Argentina) hit just the right mix of eco-friendly and chic. Thanks to the innovative material, even the most retro-inspired wayfarers feel modern.

And while wooden sunglasses may seem impractical, rest assured these quality frames are water-resistant. If you fall in love but are not blessed with perfect vision, ask owner Juan Ignacio Ronzini for a pair with prescription lenses. Keep your eyes peeled for further innovation from this young and original brand. Bonpland 2215, y Guatemala (4778 9509/ www.facebook.com/palosanto.pagina). Bus 29, 39, 93, 111. Open 10.30am-7.30pm Mon-Fri; 2.30-7.30pm Sat. No credit cards. Map H3.

925nueveveinticinco Designer Mario Paluch works with silver, gold, wood and semi-precious stones like malachite, amber and rhodochrosite to create unique, eye-catching designs. Get a piece custom-made, or choose from huge, chunky rings combining silver and ebony from the Madera line or from colourful, mosaic-like examples in the Gaudí range. Other options include a striking silver ring composed of numerous coils, as well as woven silver cuffs from guest designer Lilia Breyter.

Honduras 4808, y Armenia (4833 5343/www.nueveveinticinco.com.ar).

Bus 15, 39, 55, 140, 151, 168. Open 10am-8pm Mon-Sat; 3-8pm Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3.

garments to Palermo. Knitted sweaters, short-sleeved shirts, hoodies and hip accessories, including belts, are all available. If you’re put off by the idea of garments bearing animal logos, rest assured that Penguin’s cool retro styling makes this label anything but another bland menswear brand.

Gurruchaga 1650, entre Honduras y Pasaje Santa Rosa (4831 7272/www. originalpenguin.com). Bus 15, 34, 168.

Open 10am-8pm Mon-Sat; 11am-8pm Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2.

Other locations Paseo Alcorta shopping centre, Palermo (4808 9710); and branches throughout the city.

Manu Lizarralde Right in the heart of Palermo Soho, Manu Lizarralde’s showroom positively glows with an array of precious stones, from purple amethysts, green emeralds and champagne coloured topaz to golden rutile and quartz crystal. Each stone is handcrafted from scratch, so if you are looking for a glamorous gift from the rose quartz heart of the world, this is a dazzling hit.

Gorriti 5078, entre Thames y Serrano (4832 6252/www.manulizarralde.com).

Bus 34, 39. Open 11am-8pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2.

Other location San Martín 1107, Retiro (4314 4379).

New in town Palo Santo

Bus 39, 55. Open 11am-8pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H2.

Key Biscayne Key Biscayne’s distinctive crab logo can be spotted on billboards and advertisements around town, but after a stop in the Palermo Soho store, it’s clear this Argentinian menswear chain is aimed squarely at the anti-corporate metrosexual. Comfy hooded cardigans, denim chambray shirts, colourful shorts and T-shirts in bright, beach-ready colours are in stock all year round, even if the weather doesn’t call for it.

Armenia 1735, entre Costa Rica y El Salvador (4833 2104/www.keybiscayne. com.ar). Bus 15, 34, 39, 55, 110, 141.

Open 11am-8.30pm Mon-Sat; 1-8.30pm Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3.

Other locations Paseo Alcorta shopping centre, Palermo (4807 5282); Alto Palermo shopping centre, Palermo (5777 8007).

Penguin This classic US brand brings its iconic polo shirts and other fine quality

FASHION – CHILDREN’S AND MATERNITY

Félix Niños Menswear store Félix, known for kitting out hip hombres, also makes togs for trendy sprogs. Taking a leaf from big brother’s book, fashion-savvy youngsters can play at being cool with colourful hoodies, bright corduroy trousers, checked shirts, smart lambswool knitwear and polo shirts perfect for preppy pre-teens. Hip little sisters are also catered for.

106 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014

Patrón This delightful jewellery and accessories store stocks statement pieces by both established and up-and-coming Argentinian designers.

Artistic displays ensure the presentation is just as lovely as the merchandise itself. In addition to an exceptional range of must-have jewellery there are limited edition pieces like leather jackets and colourful silk scarves. A newly-expanded

collection of home decor that includes stunning porcelain vases and intricately hand-painted ceramic bowls proves hard to resist. The owner, jewellery designer Laura Patrón Costas, also curates a small art gallery in the shop’s basement that is well worth checking out.

Malabia 1644, entre Honduras y El Salvador (4831 0351/www.patronba. com). Bus 39, 140, 151. Open 11am-8pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2.

LEATHER GOODS

Blit Bags Designer George Visir’s showroom is the secret to getting the most luxurious leather bag, but at wholesale prices.

Book an appointment with the gregarious designer and you’ll join the ranks of Visir’s VIP clientele, including supermodel Christy Turlington. The colourful satchels, backpacks and clutches that line the eclectic space will fulfill every aesthetic from boho-chic to lady-who-lunches; details like silk-satin patterned interiors and convertible straps are hallmarks of the quality of every piece rather than gimmicks. And should your shopping companion be bored as you decide just how many bags you can fit into your suitcase, there’s a flatscreen TV available to make the non-handbag carrying set feel at home.

Address provided at time of booking (4832 3494/www.blitbags.com). Subte D, Scalabrini Ortiz/bus 10, 29, 152.

Open 9am-7pm Mon-Sat by appt.

Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3. !Doma If Kate Moss or Sienna Miller were in town and on the hunt for a leather jacket, Doma is where they’d go to find it. Forget shapeless old-school classics – this brand is all about keeping up with the latest trends on the street, and it has reinvented the biker jacket to make it sexier than ever. There’s something for the rock chick too in the ‘American’ collection of jackets, which comes in a range of colours from classic dulce de leche and charcoal to electric blue. Much of the top-quality stock is made from velvety soft sheep’s leather. Pick up a vintage-style bag or a pair of suede heels to complete the boho-chic look.

El Salvador 4693, y Armenia (4831 6852/www.doma-leather.com). Bus 15, 34, 39, 55, 110. Open 10.30am-8pm Mon-Fri; 11am-8pm Sat; 1.30-8pm Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3.

Other locations Galerías Pacífico shopping centre, Microcentro (5555 5317); Gurruchaga 711, Villa Crespo (2058 7124).

Humawaca At Humawaca, classic Argentinian leather meets innovative shapes and colours. Clutches, slouchy shoulder bags and structured handbags come in almost every colour imaginable, including bright pink, cherry red, sky blue, deep brown, or some combination of them. An expert design team was brought on board to develop bags that

Shopping

fuse modern technology with Humawaca’s signature style; for example, the leather and suede iPod shoulder bag allows the user to change the music via controls on the bag’s strap. If you go a little crazy with souvenir shopping during your stay, Humawaca also sells large bags suited for travel.

El Salvador 4692, y Armenia (4832 2662/www.humawaca.com). Bus 39, 55, 151, 168. Open 11am-8pm Mon-Sat; 2.30-7.30pm Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3.

Other location Posadas 1380, Recoleta (4811 5995).

Jackie Smith Plastic at the ready, ladies: these classic, feminine leather bags and shoes are too tempting to leave behind.

The Bellini range with its glossy, black peep-toe heels and glamorous tote in Italian leather with a snakeskin effect is ideal for a Park Avenue princess – think Charlotte from Sex and the City.

Timeless totes, purses, shoulder bags, ballet pumps and smart boots are great wardrobe staples given a twist with textured leather and modern colours.

Gurruchaga 1660, entre Honduras y El Salvador (4115 6820/www. jackiesmith.com). Bus 15, 34, 39, 55, 57, 110, 140, 141, 151, 168. Open 11am-8pm Mon-Sat; 1-7pm Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3.

Other locations Paseo Alcorta shopping centre, Palermo (5777 6631); Galerías Pacífico shopping centre, Microcentro (5555 5233).

Milla This is a must for leather-lovers keen to stand out from the everyday leather-clad crowd. Twin brother designers Diego and Sebastián Smolkin

have done the Argentinian leather industry proud by creating quality pieces that incorporate sophistication and innovation. Jackets, bags, belts and accessories can be found in classic shades and designs, but what makes this collection shine is the vibrant colours – turquoise, yellows and reds which, along with punky extras such as studs and zippers, give the leather staples a cool individuality.

Armenia 1532, entre Gorriti y Honduras (4831 4447/www.millastore. com.ar). Bus 15, 34, 39, 55, 151.

Open 11am-7pm Mon-Sat; 3-7pm Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2.

LINGERIE

Belle Époque If Buenos Aires’s bounteous supply of steamy, lavishly frilled lingerie is a little too agent provocateur for your taste, Belle Époque offers a range that is slightly more demure, while remaining obviously feminine. Owner Marisol Finkielsztoym stocks beautifully crafted, elegant pieces with a retro, timeless quality. But if the designs attract a sophisticated clientele, the prices definitely demand a credit card to match.

Costa Rica 4833, entre Thames y Jorge Luis Borges (4833 6860/www. lenceriabelleepoque.com.ar). Bus 34, 39, 55, 140, 151, 168. Open 1-7pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3.

SHOES – WOMEN’S

Chicco Ruiz Designer Lourdes Chicco Ruiz’s boutique, recently merged with clothing store DAM, is ideal for women who are keen to indulge their Cinderella fantasies. Besides offering a collection of pretty, handmade styles – from

classic leather ankle boots to unconventional sculptural heels – in 15 to 20 days Chicco Ruiz can also produce a customised pair of shoes, starting from AR$1200.

Thames 1780, entre Costa Rica y El Salvador (4831 1264/www. lourdeschiccoruiz.com.ar). Bus 34, 39, 55, 140, 151. Open 11am-8pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, V. Map G3.

Josefina Ferroni Josefina Ferroni’s highly desirable collections have won her fans across South America, Europe and the USA, and have led to collaborations with noted local fashion designers like Mariana Dappiano. Merging quality, style and comfort, Ferroni’s shoes succeed in combining elegance with practicality. For sophisticated sandals or gorgeous leather boots made not just for posing but also for walking, stop by and check out what’s new in Ferroni’s latest collection.

Armenia 1687, entre Honduras y El Salvador (4831 4033/www. josefinaferroni.com.ar). Bus 15, 34, 36, 39, 55, 57. Open 11am-8pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2. !Mishka Trends are given a retro slant at Mishka with footwear that appeals to everyone from teenagers and thirtysomethings to the more mature customer with an appreciation of the brand’s creative designs. Comfortable platforms with wooden or cork soles come in a variety of shiny colours, and are the perfect combination of throwback and trendy. There are also a number of show-stopping styles for elegant occasions.

El Salvador 4673, entre Armenia y Malabia (4833 6566/www.mishkashoes.

com.ar). Bus 15, 39, 55, 57, 110, 140, 151, 160, 168. Open 10.30am-8.30pm Mon-Sat; 2-8pm Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3.

Other locations Balcarce 1011, San Telmo (4361 5279); Guido 1539, Recoleta (4816 4816); Paseo Alcorta shopping centre, Palermo (5777 6540).

SHOES – MEN’S

28 Sport As its name suggests, 28 Sport takes its design cues from original sports footwear from the 1930s to the 1950s.

The quality harks back to that era as well; all the shoes are hand stitched, with leather lining and reinforced toes, details that are hard to come by in modern footwear. These shoes and lace-up boots come in a multitude of colours and are actually moulded from original hockey, hiking, climbing, football, boxing and bowling designs.

Unlike other brands with such a strong focus on quality and tradition, 28 Sport’s products are decidedly unstuffy and, better still, they are produced in limited editions. Get your hands on one of the extra-special pairs made only once, in just one size.

Gurruchaga 1481, entre Cabrera y Gorriti (4833 4287/www.28sport.com).

Bus 15, 39, 55, 57, 106, 110, 140, 151, 168. Open 11.30am-7pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2.

Apuesto Apuesto’s range of handmade footwear is a showcase of understated sophistication. Simple designs in browns and blacks ooze class and quality, while the charming leather espadrilles are perfect for BA’s fresh autumnal days. To complete the look, check out the brand new line of cotton

Arte Étnico Argentino (see p110).

108 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014

Four of the best Knitwear

1

Tienda Sustentable Uriarte 1327 (4772 3166/www. tiendasustentable.com) Organic merino wool knits are the speciality at this eco-friendly boutique, which incorporates sustainable practices into every element of the store.

2

3

Agostina Bianchi Thames 1733 (4833 9357/ www.agostinabianchi.com.ar) A favourite on the red carpet, Bianchi’s flattering, feminine collection of knits made for the mature woman use soft yarns, including merino wool and mohair.

4

Vittorita Call for address (mobile 15 6721 4062/www.vittorita.com.ar) Sisters Pame and Daniela keep this vintage showroom stocked with irresistible knitted sweaters in fresh pastel shades to keep you warm this winter.

shirts and fine Peruvian pima T-shirts, especially designed to complement your shiny new shoes.

El Salvador 5772, y Carranza (4772 4206/www.apuestoba.com). Bus 39, 57, 93, 108, 111, 166. Open 2-8pm Mon-Fri; 2-10pm Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H2.

Terán In this black lacquered, minimalist shop, designer Gonzalo Terán’s exquisite footwear for discerning gentlemen is the focus of attention.

Expert artisans craft Terán’s designs with a range that includes the likes of lace-up boots and suede moccasins. His latest pieces are modern twists on the classics; oxfords in pink suede or patent leather are perfect for trendy office-wear.

Thames 1855, entre Costa Rica y Nicaragua (4831 7264/www.teran.com. ar). Bus 34, 36, 39, 55, 93, 111. Open noon-8.30pm daily. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3.

The Pick Market New York has Dean & DeLuca, but Buenos Aires has few places where your eyes can feast as much as your stomach. This gourmet café and produce store fills that void, stocking the pick of the local and imported crop.

Think fresh fruit and vegetables, meats and cheeses, baked goods, tea and coffee. Grab a bottle of wine (no corkage to drink it in the café), an Illy coffee and a cheese platter and turn your grocery shopping from a chore into a treat.

Ugarteche 3154, entre Cabello y Cerviño (4806 5259/www. thepickmarket.com.ar). Bus 37, 41, 57, 59, 60, 93, 111. Open 10am-9.30pm Sun-Tue; 10am-midnight Wed-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G4.

Other locations Libertad 1212, Recoleta (0800 777 0204); Demaria 4527, Palermo (4772 2697).

Shopping

URSA Call for address (4073 5466/ cyberursa.com) Savvy expat Elizabeth Gleeson and a cooperative of local craftswomen run this independent ethical textile and accessories brand. Gorgeous, handmade scarves, sweaters and bags are perfect for every occasion.

rye crispbread, Tabasco sauce and Heinz ketchup.

Thames 2098, y Guatemala (4778 0870/www.malamboalmacen.com.ar).

Subte D, Plaza Italia/bus 34, 39, 57, 152, 166. Open 11am-9pm, Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3.

Sugar & Spice When Frank Almeida couldn’t find cookies like the ones he liked back home in Chicago, he enlisted the help of his wife Fabiana and they started baking them themselves. They’ve since branched out into pound cake – called budín here – as well as New York-style bagels, brownies, biscotti and stollen.

The fruity pan dulce (panettone) is a local favourite and they also stock a small range of loose-leaf tea.

Guatemala 5419, entre Humboldt y Avenida Juan B Justo (4777 5423/ www.sugarandspice.com.ar). Bus 29, 39, 60, 64, 67, 68, 111, 161. Open 10am-7pm Mon-Fri; 9am-1pm Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H3.

WINE

Lo de Joaquín Alberdi Step inside this attractive old house close to Palermo’s Plaza Serrano and let yourself be guided by the enthusiastic, well-informed staff through the wide range of wines. Boutique bodegas are especially well represented – some of the names to look out for include Achaval Ferrer and De Angeles. Stop by on Thursday for weekly tastings.

Jorge Luis Borges 1772, entre El Salvador y Costa Rica (4832 5329/ www.lodejoaquinalberdi.com.ar). Bus 34, 55. Open 11am-9.30pm daily.

Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3.

FOOD AND DRINK

!Malambo Cheery porteño Alejandro Soler offers a friendly, customised service at his Palermo Soho vinoteca and deli. He’ll passionately talk you through each wine label you’re interested in and let you try before you buy his quality cheeses and hams. A great place for gifts, this foodie Aladdin’s den also stocks hard-to-find imported goods popular with homesick expats, such as Ecuadorian chocolate, Italian pasta,

Siete Spirits Wines from all over the New World are stocked floor-to-ceiling in this snug little shop, but the speciality is Argentinian tinto (red) produced in small wineries, from Patagonia to Salta and everywhere in between. If wine isn’t your area of expertise, the knowledgeable, friendly staff will point you in the right direction, and discounts when you buy six or more bottles might have you upping your

La Dolfina (see p100).

Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014 109

baggage allowance. If you want to try before you buy, the shop holds free weekly tastings on Thursdays between 6pm and 8pm.

Nicaragua 5942, entre Arévalo y Ravignani (4779 2823/www.sietespirits. com). Subte D, Ministro Carranza/bus 39, 93, 168. Open noon-8pm Tue-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H3.

Shopping

MUSIC

!Miles Discos Browse in this relaxed record store and check out an eclectic mix of music at the listening posts; from rare jazz and traditional tango, to gospel and heavy metal, to world music and solo artists.

This is also a good place to stock up on local and foreign films.

Honduras 4969, entre Jorge Luis Borges y Gurruchaga (4832 0466/ www.milesdiscos.com.ar). Bus 15, 34, 151, 168. Open 10am-8pm Mon-Thur; 10am-9pm Fri, Sat; noon-8pm Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2.

BIKING

Mµvin BA’s ever-expanding bike lanes make cycling an increasingly popular mode of transportation, so of course stylish cycling gear is equally necessary.

Located conveniently along the Gorriti bike path, Mµvin fits the bill. The colourful and modern store presents a stylish mix of form and function, with bike accessories like locks, chains, helmets and baskets in chic prints and colours to spiff up even the most dreary two-wheeler. The bicycles are the pièce de résistance and likely a source of eye candy and envy for every cyclist who passes by. There’s also a rack of bike-friendly clothing, such as jackets with built-in reflectors, to complete your ‘cycle chic’ look.

Gorriti 5051, entre Thames y Serrano (4833 2154/www.muvin.com.ar). Bus 34, 39, 55. Open 10am-7pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2.

TRADITIONAL CRAFTS

Amaicha For a decade Amaicha has been sourcing handmade artisanal items from indigenous communities the length and breadth of Argentina: think animal masks crafted by the Chané in Salta, silver jewellery forged by the Mapuche peoples of the south, and traditional Guaraní ceramics and intricately woven textiles from the northern provinces. Best of all, it’s all ethically sourced, so your one-of-a-kind souvenir can double up as your good deed for the day.

Armenia 2106, entre Guatemala y Paraguay (mobile 15 6429 7609/www. amaichaartesanias.com.ar). Bus 15, 34, 36, 39, 110, 141. Open 1-7.30pm Mon-Fri; 4-7pm Sat, Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3. !Arte Étnico Argentino Beyond the pretty courtyard of this shop are a couple of rooms – one full of beautiful, bright textiles; the other packed with an assortment of painted wardrobes, lovely leather and carob

Cualquier Verdura (see p96).

wood tables, colourful saint boxes made from recycled wood, and chairs hanging from the ceiling. The pieces, a mix of antiques and new designs, are all handmade by the QuichuaSantiagueño peoples of the relatively unvisited northern province of Santiago del Estero.

El Salvador 4656, entre Armenia y Malabia (4832 0516/www. arteetnicoargentino.com). Bus 34, 55.

Open 11am-6pm Mon-Fri; 11am-2pm Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3. !Elementos Argentinos Fernando Bach and Pablo Mendívil stock a selection of irresistible textile art and other unique objects at their Palermo store, where English-speaking staff are on hand to help. Handmade by craftspeople from the northern provinces of Argentina, the pieces range from blankets and cushions to toys, furniture and one-of-a-kind hand-loomed rugs.

Gurruchaga 1881, entre Nicaragua y Costa Rica (4832 6299/www. elementosargentinos.com.ar). Bus 39, 93, 161. Open 11am-7pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3.

Other location Arenales 1321, Recoleta (4811 0653).

Las Cañitas

The shopping scene in chichi Las Cañitas is dominated by the El Solar shopping centre (Avenida Luis María Campos y Maure), where you’ll find

110 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014

local fashion chains like AY Not Dead, Las Pepas and Prüne alongside international brands like Rip Curl and Levi’s. Beyond the mall’s airconditioned walls lie a smattering of boutiques, most of them catering to the barrio’s wealthy clientele.

FASHION – BOUTIQUES

Fire Walk With Me This hipster haunt in posh Las Cañitas feels a bit like walking into Karen O’s wardrobe. Think polychromatic spandex leggings, skull-and-batsilhouette jewellery and graphic T-shirts. Alongside pieces by local designers is a small selection of vinyl records as well as Edward Scissorhands and Elvis figurines. The store is the love child of a couple with a Twin Peaks obsession, and the influence of the hit ’90s television show pervades everything from the store’s name to the two adjacent changing rooms shaped just like twin peaks.

Arce 941, entre Gorostiaga y Maure (4771 3208/www.fiwwme.blogspot. com). Bus 15, 29, 55. Open 11am-8pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V.

Abasto and Once A little rough around the edges, Abasto is home to a massive shopping centre.

Neighbouring Once (pronounced ‘on-say’) is a warren of wholesale fabric stores.

SHOPPING CENTRES

Abasto de Buenos Aires This converted fruit market is one of the finest examples of art deco architecture in the city, which makes it a great venue for window shopping.

It’s also a magnet for hordes of teenagers, though there are stores for all ages and tastes. Abasto contains a kids’ play area, a cinema, a large food court with a kosher McDonalds (the only one outside of Israel) and some 230 shops, including Zara, menswear brands Bowen and Penguin and womenswear brand Rapsodia. Be warned: it’s hectic at the weekend.

Avenida Corrientes 3247, entre Agüero y Anchorena (4959 3400/www. abasto-shopping.com.ar). Subte B, Carlos Gardel/bus 24, 26, 29, 64, 68, 71, 118, 124, 168. Open 10am-10pm daily. Credit varies. Map E3.

Belgrano, Colegiales and Villa Crespo

Venture into these up-and-coming neighbourhoods beyond Palermo for bargain leather goods and factory outlet stores offering discounted clothing. (Calle Murillo in Villa Crespo is leather central). The Mercado de las Pulgas (see p112) on the corner of Conde and Dorrego is an atmospheric, furniture-filled flea market, easy to get lost in for an aternoon.

FASHION – BOUTIQUES

Balaciano At Marina Balaciano’s shop-cumshowroom, you can browse the rails of this designer’s pretty womenswear.

Among the top-quality fabrics employed in Marina’s designs are satin, cashmere, Italian wool and French lace, and interesting details include embroidery and Swarovski crystal decoration. Romantic dresses and chic coats are trademark pieces.

Zabala 2939, entre Conesa y Zapiola, Colegiales (mobile 15 3196 1641). Bus 151, 168. Open 8am-8pm Mon-Sat by appt only. Credit AmEx, MC, V. FASHION – CHAINS

FASHION – CHILDREN’S AND MATERNITY

Mimo & Co. Mimo has been bringing its practical, modern clothing to boys and girls for more than three decades, with products that include garments, footwear and accessories for newborns to 12-yearolds. There are ladylike coats, snug Fair Isle-inspired knitwear, faux fur gilets, hooded tops, cargo pants and practical rain jackets. You’ll wish they had them in adult sizes.

Gurruchaga 935, y Loyola, Villa Crespo (5197 5562/www.mimo.com.ar). Bus 15, 19, 34, 55. Open 11am-8pm Mon-Sat; 2-8pm Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3.

Other locations Avenida Santa Fe 1922, Recoleta (4811 0915); and branches throughout the city.

LEATHER GOODS

Murillo 666 On this stretch of calle Murillo between Scalabrini Ortiz and Gurruchaga, there are plenty of outlets that offer leather jackets at below-bargain-basement prices. Murillo 666 stands out for its huge selection, which includes handbags, belts, wallets, luggage and even sofas: if you want it, you’ll probably find it here, and if not here, then it will almost certainly be in one of the other leather stores on the block.

Murillo 666, entre Acevedo y Malabia, Villa Crespo (4856 4501/www. murillo666.com.ar). Subte B, Malabia/ bus 15, 19, 24, 76, 109, 112. Open 9.30am-8pm Mon-Sat; 10am-7pm Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G1.

TRADITIONAL CRAFTS

Pasión Argentina Pasión Argentina – recently arrived in Belgrano from Palermo – was one of the first fair-trade companies in the country and it remains one of the best.

posh Recoleta. Services cover the full beauty spectrum; stop in for a keratin straightening treatment, gel manicures and pedicures, waxing, or even to get that tattoo you’ve always wanted. Of course, you can always stick with a haircut and save the tattoo for next time. Order an Illy coffee and something sweet free of charge while the tattooed stylists work their magic.

If you’d rather listen to music than chit chat, ask to borrow an iPod. French 2657, y Anchorena (4808 0450/www.red-velvet.com.ar). Bus 37, 60, 95. Open 10am-8pm Mon-Sat. Credit cards AmEx, MC, V. Map E4.

Terrie Orr Anyone who has gone in for a trim and stepped out with a mullet will appreciate this Irish hairdresser’s HAIRDRESSERS attentiveness to instructions and detail.

Friendly, professional and thorough, Cerini Terrie works from her Belgrano A flawless finish is what Cerini’s all apartment and specialises in colour about. Colouring, roll-brush drying, trims, manicures and pedicures are done corrections. She also offers waxing and by professional stylists. Foreign visitors is a qualified HD brow therapist.

Address provided at time of booking, swear this is a safe place to get your Belgrano (mobile 15 3432 4141/ hair cut, and that you will walk out terrie.orr@gmail.com). Subte D, happy. Highlights are done old-school Congreso de Tucumán/bus 29, style, with a cap, but this is 168. Open 9am-9.30pm common practice in BA, Mon-Sat by appt. No and they come out fine. credit cards.

Marcelo T de Alvear Afternoon maté 1471, entre Paraná y Matés are traditionally OPTICIANS Uruguay, Recoleta (4813 made of dried gourds, !Carla Di Sí 3594/www.cerini.net). but you can find wood, Innovative local Bus 10, 17, 39. Open ceramic, plastic and eyewear designer Carla 8am-10pm Mon-Sat. glass creations Di Sí has her own Credit AmEx, MC, V. as well. classy and sassy line, with Map D5. an emphasis on handmade Other locations Sucre 2245, frames. Colourful cat-eye frames and Belgrano (4787 3400); Paseo Alcorta hexagonal tortoiseshell lenses are shopping centre, Palermo (4800 1815). perfect accessories for any fashionista.

Naturally, Carla’s work is no stranger Javier Luna to magazine covers and fashion Javier Luna’s chic salon, with its white spreads. Vintage fans will also love her leather couches and velvet curtains, is made for gals who know they’re worth selection of frames from the 1950s to it. Luna’s international career has taken the 1980s sourced by Carla’s optician grandfather. The service here is him from BA to Paris, Milan, London attentive and honest – much and Berlin, and has seen him working appreciated when you’re squinting his hairdressing magic on celebrities away at your bespectacled reflection. and models like Cindy Crawford and Gurruchaga 1677, entre El Salvador y Naomi Campbell.

Honduras, Palermo (4832 1655/ 1st floor, Godoy Cruz 3212, entre J F www.carladisi.com.ar). Bus 15, 39, Segui y Avenida del Libertador, 110, 140, 151, 168. Open 11am-8pm Palermo (4772 5498/www.javierluna.

Mon-Sat; 3.30-7.30pm Sun. Credit com.ar). Bus 10, 34, 37, 57, 128.

AmEx, MC, V. Map G2.

Open 10am-7.30pm Tue-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H4.

Infinit Boutique The stock at this cool eyewear Portrait Peluquería emporium usually includes tortoiseshell This Parisian-style salon, presided over by the talented hairstylist Ramiro frames that are reminiscent of vintage specs, cat-eye frames with metallic de Vooght, offers quality service in a luxurious environment secluded from detailing in the corners, and sunglasses city sounds and stresses. Massages in a variety of shapes and colours. and waxing are also offered.

Thames 1602, y Honduras, Palermo Gorriti 4687, entre Armenia y (4831 7070/www.infinit.la). Bus 34, Malabia, Palermo (4833 3736/www.

39, 55, 140, 151, 166, 168. Open portraitpeluqueria.com). Bus 15, 39, 11am-8pm Mon-Sat; 3-7pm Sun. 140, 141, 151. Open 11am-8pm Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2.

Tue-Sat. Credit MC, V. Map G2.

Health and beauty

TOP TIP!

PHARMACIES

Red Velvet With a rockstar red colour scheme, leopard print salon capes, and X-Men figurines, this family-owned hair and beauty salon brings a little funk to

FarmaCity This mega-chain has plenty of well-stocked stores across the city, and most are open 24 hours and offer delivery services. Remember that some

prescriptions cannot be filled outside your home country.

Florida 474, entre Avenida Corrientes y Lavalle, Microcentro (4322 6559/ www.farmacity.com). Subte B, Florida/ bus 10, 22, 105, 140. Open 24hrs daily. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map C5.

Other locations throughout the city.

MANICURISTS

Queenies Treating oneself has never been so easy at this nail parlour turned all-inclusive beauty salon. Queenies is a unique gem that offers glamorous makeovers and ‘nail-overs’. Nails are the hottest accessory for babes in BA and here you can get a daring animal-print manicure, and afterwards step next door into the new beauty salon, where you can get your face cleansed, plucked and pampered.

Offering luxurious facial treatments and a range of beauty products, Queenies is top of the list with the ultimate stylists in town.

Fitz Roy 1889, y Costa Rica, Palermo (4899 0746/www.queeniesbuenosaires. com). Bus 34, 39, 57, 93, 108, 111, 166. Open 10.30am-8pm Tue-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H3.

SPAS AND MASSAGES

Home Spa The spa at Home Hotel (see p154) is the perfect place for a pampering experience after a hard day’s shopping in Palermo. Open to both guests and non-guests, the spa offers a range of treatments including Thai Shiatsu and hot stone massages. Enquire about the Jet Lag Recovery package, which includes a calming hydrotherapy bath followed by a glorious massage.

Honduras 5860, entre Carranza y Ravignani, Palermo (4778 1008/www. homebuenosaires.com). Bus 39, 93, 108, 111. Open 10am-6pm Wed-Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H2.

Spa Castelar A great value spa in the centre of the city, the Spa Castelar is open to non-guests of the Castelar hotel and is divided into male and female sectors.

Relax in the saunas or pop into the Turkish and Finnish baths, or try a stress-relieving massage.

Avenida de Mayo 1152, entre Salta y Lima, Congreso (4381 4037/www. castelarhotel.com.ar). Subte A, Lima/ bus 45, 50, 56, 98. Open Men 10am-9pm Mon-Fri; 8am-8pm Sat. Women 10am-9pm Mon-Fri; 11am-8pm Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map C4.

WAXING

The Beauty Saloon Hairlessness is big business in this city, but if grinning and baring it all in any old backstreet dive is not your idea of a rip-roaring time, then head to the depilación experts at this sleek Recoleta boutique. As well as waxing every nook and cranny, they have nailed the art of manis and pedis, and also offer massages and facial treatments.

Uriburu 1397, y French, Recoleta (2066 2671). Bus 118. Open 9am-8pm Tue, Wed; 9am-9pm Thur-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map E4.

Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014 111

Shopping

Kosiuko When Britney Spears shoehorned herself into a pair of Kosiuko jeans for her ‘Overprotected’ video clip, it did wonders for raising the profile (and revenue) of the Argentinian streetwear label. Jeans and accessories are timeless Kosiuko staples, while the label also offers a rocker-inspired men’s line and cute options for kids.

Cabildo 1940, entre Echeverría y Sucre, Belgrano (4788 8228/www.kosiuko. com) Bus 55, 151. Open 10am-9pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Other locations throughout the city.

Launched after training women from Argentina’s northern provinces in ethical, small-scale manufacturing, it now works with more than 50 families.

Look out for the very well-priced sling-style leather bags, smart totes and newly added shoe line. Handwoven textiles are named after the women who made them. The company also stocks homewear like bedding, tablecloths and woven trays. This is a wonderful place for good value, one-of-a-kind Argentinian presents.

Apartment 2B, Dragones 1880, y Sucre, Belgrano (4785 6256/www. pasion-argentina.com.ar). Bus 28, 34, 57, 107, 130. Open 10am-8pm Mon-Fri; 10am-2pm Sat. Credit MC, V.

Markets

Shopping index

Shopping

Feria Plaza Francia Handicrafts, leather bags, jewellery, scarves and paintings – you name it, you can buy it at this quality weekend arts and crafts fair just beside the Recoleta cemetery.

Plaza Francia y Plaza Alvear, Avenida del Libertador y Avenida Pueyrredón, Recoleta (www.feriaplazafrancia.com).

Bus 17, 62, 92, 93, 110. Open 11am-8pm Sat, Sun. Map E5.

Feria de Mataderos This colourful food and crafts fair takes over the central square of Mataderos, a 45-min bus ride from the city centre. This is the place to come for a taste of the pampas and to buy authentic gaucho gear – think silver knives, leather belts, country hats; oh, and a whole load of dulce de leche.

Entertainment takes the form of folkloric music and dancing, while riders display their prowess on horses.

Just be sure to keep your eyes open for pickpockets while in the area.

Avenida Lisandro de la Torre, y San Pedro, Mataderos (www. feriademataderos.com.ar). Bus 55, 80, 92, 126. Open Mar-Dec 11am-8pm Sun; late Jan, Feb 5-9.30pm Sat. Feria San Pedro Telmo Stroll down calle Defensa and its surrounding streets on a Sunday to soak up the atmosphere, marvel at the busking talent and check out hundreds of stalls selling antiques, handmade jewellery, tango memorabilia, paintings, funky clothing, second-hand books, leather accessories and a whole host of other items. As the sun goes down, you'll get to see stallholders in Plaza Dorrego pack away their wares and part of the square transform into an atmospheric outdoor milonga (social tango dance).

Plaza Dorrego, y Defensa entre Avenida de Mayo y Avenida San Juan, San Telmo (www.feriadesantelmo.com). Bus 9, 10. Open 10am-5pm Sun. Map B4.

Mercado de las Pulgas This cluttered flea market on the Colegiales/Palermo border focuses on antique furniture and quirky household items. Packed with atmosphere and random treasures, it’s a good alternative for fans of vintage who are tired of the more touristy and jam-packed weekend market in San Telmo.

Conde y Dorrego, Colegiales (www. elmercadodepulgas.com.ar). Bus 39, 93.

Open 10am-7pm Tue-Sun. Map H2.

Mercado de San Telmo This market, with various entrances including one opposite La Brigada (see p32), is a great place to find fresh fruit, vegetables and meat, as well as antiques and leather goods. There are also a few stacked second-hand record shops, and the central deli sells parma ham, delicious mini alfajores, home-made jams and pickles and soft Argentinian cheeses.

Defensa 961, entre Estados Unidos y Carlos Calvo, San Telmo. Bus 4, 8, 9, 22, 24, 93, 129, 130, 143. Open 8am-8pm daily. Map B4.

Oleana (see p100).

Antiques, art and collectibles Gabriel Del Campo Anticuario Guevara Art Gallery HB Antigüedades Biking Mµvin

95 98 96 110

Bookshops Ateneo Grand Splendid Dain Usina Cultural Libros del Pasaje Fedro San Telmo Walrus Books

98 101 101 96 96

Design and home accessories Amazonia Almanatura Autoría BsAs Cualquier Verdura Fueguia L’Ago Papelera Palermo Paul Pehache Sabater Hermanos Wussmann

102 95 96 98 96 102 102 102 102 98

Fashion Boutiques Amores Trash Couture Balaciano Biorder Casa Chic Cultivo Diseño Fire Walk With Me Lupe Pesqueira Puntos en el Espacio Seco Tienda Sustentable

104 111 100 104 100 110 104 104 96 105 109

Chains AY Not Dead Ayres Chocolate De la Ostia Desiderata Kosiuko Las Pepas María Cher Paula Cahen D’Anvers Rapsodia Vitamina Zara

102 98 98 102 98 111 98 102 102 102 103 100

112 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014

Children and maternity Félix Niños Mimo & Co. Venga Madre

106 111 100

Designer Agostina Bianchi Blackmamba Cecilia Gadea Cora Groppo Cubreme Dubié Garza Lobos Greens Juana de Arco Mariana Dappiano Them Tramando Trosman Vestite y Andate URSA Vevû

109 103 103 103 103 103 103 100 100 104 100 100 104 104 109 104

Jewellery 925nueveveintecinco Manu Lizarralde Marcelo Toledo Oleana Patrón Plata Nativa Signos

106 106 96 100 106 95 96

Leather goods Blit Bags Casa Lopez Doma Humawaca Jackie Smith Milla Murillo 666 Peter Kent Prüne Rossi & Caruso Santesteban

106 95 106 106 108 108 111 101 95 101 101

Lingerie Belle Époque

108

Menswear Bensimon Bolivia Bowen La Dolfina

105 105 105 100

Etiqueta Negra Félix Hermanos Estebecorena Key Biscayne La Martina Penguin

105 105 105 106 95 106

Shoes – Men’s 28 Sport Apuesto Terán

108 108 109

Shoes – Women’s Chicco Ruiz Comme Il Faut Josefina Ferroni Miki & Choya Mishka

108 101 108 102 108

Vintage and used Bimba Vintage El Buen Orden Galería 5ta Avenida Gil Antigüedades Juan Pérez Vittorita

106 100 100 96 100 109

Food and drink Malambo The Pick Market Sugar & Spice

109 109 109

Wine Lo de Joaquín Alberdi Siete Spirits

109 109

Health and beauty Hairdressers Cerini Javier Luna Portrait Peluquería Red Velvet Terrie Orr

111 111 111 111 111

Opticians Carla Di Sí Infinit Boutique Palo Santo

111 111 106

Pharmacies FarmaCity

111

Manicurists Queenies

111

Spas and massages Home Spa Spa Castelar

111 111

Waxing The Beauty Saloon

111

Markets Feria Plaza Francia Feria de Mataderos Feria San Pedro Telmo Mercado de las Pulgas Mercado de San Telmo

112 112 112 112 112

Music Abraxas Miles Discos Zivals

101 110 95

Sports and outdoor gear Wildlife

95

Shopping centres Abasto de Buenos Aires Alto Palermo Galería Bond Street Galerías Pacífico Paseo Alcorta Patio Bullrich Recoleta Mall

110 101 98 95 101 98 98

Traditional crafts Amaicha Arandú Arte Étnico Argentino Elementos Argentinos Pasión Argentina

110 101 110 110 111

Arts & Leisure

Photograph: Time Out

Around Town

114

Art

123

Film & Media

127

Fitness & Sports

129

Gay & Lesbian

132

Music

136

Performing Arts

139

Tango

142

Around Town

I

n 2011, UNESCO named Buenos Aires a World Book Capital. And with at least one bookshop in every neighbourhood, Buenos Aires is undoubtedly doing its part to keep print culture alive. If you’d just like an English-language novel to carry you over on the plane ride home, San Telmo’s Walrus Books (see p96) is your best bet, with a huge stock of used English-language books. But those who want to linger a while –enjoy a cappuccino with other bookworms or perhaps catch an author talk or a film screening – ought to spend an afternoon in a local bookshop-café, many of which also act as cultural meeting points.

It’s safe to say that literature and caffeine are long-term best friends (at the very least Time Out can say that this article wouldn’t have been written without the powers of coffee), and every city needs a place where you can indulge in both simultaneously. Fortunately, Argentina’s capital has quite a few such places and even a bookshop within a wine shop for good measure.

Books, live jazz, coffee, medialunas and art exhibitions are just a few of the things you might see at Clásica y Moderna (see p23), one of the city’s most notable cultural centres. With over 75 years in the business, it’s a downtown institution and likely an inspiration for every other bookshop-café-barrestaurant in BA. Located on the bustling Avenida Callao, Clásica y Moderna’s deliberately dark interior, exposed brick walls and stone floor give the feeling you’ve stepped into a sort of underground lair. At night, the lair lights up with frequent live music acts and literary discussions, with past topics including the likes of tango-centred literature. The bookshop itself is set in the back of the store, divided from the café by glimmering glass walls. An Englishlanguage section includes classic Latin American authors in translation, such as Allende, Borges and García Márquez. Befitting the ‘Moderna’ of its name, there are also many of Argentina’s contemporary writers, like Fernanda García Lao and César Aira.

Just a few blocks away is Avenida Corrientes, the mecca of hole-in-thewall bookshops, and historically the most important vein of BA literary culture. The annual Noche de Librerías honours that tradition every summer with bookshops along

Emily Jensen visits BA’s best bookshop-cafés. Map by Gustavo Guevara.

Corrientes hosting free events past their usual closing hours. Sure, very few of these shops have a pleasant place to sit down and read, and they are as jammed with books as the avenida is with pedestrians, but book-lovers will have a hard time passing up the chance to dive into at least one. Librería Hernández (Avenida Corrientes 1436, 4372 7845, www. libreriahernandez. com.ar) is an example of a classic shop that’s been going strong for over half a century. If you happen to buy a title and want a place to get started reading, nearby café El Gato Negro (see p23) has the perfect old-school ambience.

There’s nothing off the beaten path about Ateneo Grand Splendid (see p98). The multi-level converted theatre has been included on dozens of lists of the world’s most beautiful bookshops, and is frequently filled with tourists snapping photos of its painted domed ceiling or grabbing a lounge chair to catch up on writing postcards.

None of that means it can be distilled into a simple tourist trap; El Ateneo is truly a sight to behold, and there’s no better vantage point to observe it than from the café that sits on what was once a stage.

Intimacy is certainly not the word here, and the titles available are nothing out of the ordinary, but for an awe-inspiring view and a café cortado while knocking a few pages off your latest read, it certainly fits the bill.

It happens to the best of us; one moment you’re happily devouring a book and slurping on cappuccinos, and before you know it you’ve downed five shots of espresso and your heart is about to pound out of your chest from the caffeine overload. What better remedy to

114 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014

calm your heart rate than a glass of malbec? Alamut Libros (Jorge Luis Borges 1985, 4833 9184) brings to BA just what every city – nay neighbourhood – needs: a bookshop

combined with a wine store.

Books share a space with wine boutique Autre Monde (www. autremonde.com.ar), where the expert owner hand selects every bottle. Alamut’s editions are chosen with equal care, and owners Daniela and Luciano take pride in offering titles beyond just what’s on the

best-seller list. If you’re interested in improving your Spanish via literature, they’ll happily offer suggestions that are accessible to your reading level.

The monolingual can stick to the English section, where you’ll find Latin

American authors in translation; many of Alamut’s travel, art and wine books are also available in English. For a night of wine and culture, sign up for one of the film cycles; past editions have focused on literary movements like the Beatniks or authors like Charles Bukowski, and a small entry fee includes a glass of wine at the start

and one after the film to encourage group discussions. Borges would be proud to have such an establishment located on his namesake street.

There’s no better place to contemplate your impending mental breakdown over a cup of coffee than the aptly named Crack Up (Costa Rica 4767, 4831 3502, www.crackup.com.ar). Fitzgeraldian ennui aside, the friendly owners and diverse selection make Crack Up a lovely place to purchase a new read, or even just as an intellectual retreat from the barrage of trendy clothing stores that make up its

taken effect in Argentina. Perhaps there’s hope after all that Buenos Aires’s wonderful literature scene won’t be going out of print any time soon. Not just for the sake of the physical books themselves, but because of what the spaces they’re sold in represent. These bookshopcafés are definitive examples of what the e-book and Amazon culture lacks: a space to meet and interact with other readers, writers and publishers.

Around Town

authors, as well as a small English-language section. The upstairs loft features gorgeous art and photography books, perfect to display on your coffee table back home if your wallet (and luggage) can handle the extra dent. A quiet atmosphere and beautiful

aesthetics make Libros del Pasaje perfect for wiling away a few hours, particularly if the café’s cake cabinet still has some decadent dulce de leche-topped brownies.

On the other side of the railway line, a deceptively small storefront conceals the extensive treasures hidden at Eterna Cadencia (Honduras 5574, 4774 4100, www. eternacadencia.com). Wooden bookshelves run deep into the back of the shop, with every nook and cranny filled to accommodate a large range of classic and contemporary literature, Englishand foreign-language titles, poetry, drama and plenty of non-fiction. In contrast to the dark wood interior is a sundrenched patio-café decorated with whimsical paper sculptures, and equipped with a full bar (caffeine may be literature’s good companion, but alcohol has certainly been friendly to many a writer). Owner Pablo Braun considers the space to be more than just a shop, but rather a literary culture centre.

And rightfully so: every Tuesday the shop hosts an event open to the public, ranging from author talks to live music. Last September, Eterna Cadencia hosted the 2013 Filba Internacional (filba.org. ar), which featured literature workshops and panels of writers from around the world, including local authors like Sylvia Molloy and Hernán Ronsino, and will also host the 2014 edition of the literature festival (see p12). Not content with just selling books, Eterna Cadencia began publishing in 2008, with literary fiction, non-fiction and academic works, and translations of Latin American authors on its roster. Check the store’s blog (blog. eternacadencia.com.ar) for author interviews and information on new releases and events.

More and more readers are switching from their paperbacks to e-readers, and many brick-and-mortar shops have lost customers to online shopping’s convenience – though try purchasing an iPad in Buenos Aires for a reasonable price or getting your online order delivered to the city, and you’ll see why those changes haven’t yet

Eterna Cadencia.

Alamut Libros.

Beyond Borges Check out these contemporary authors to get to see what’s moving the Argentinian literature of today.

Ricardo Piglia, Respiración artificial Pola Oloixarac, Las teorías salvajes Aurora Venturini, Las primas César Aira, El mármol Sylvia Molloy, En breve cárcel Martín Kohan, Bahía Blanca

Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014 115

EMILY JENSEN

neighbourhood. Would-be novelists type away in the small café at the front of house, while the back of the store carries the air of a very well stocked personal library, with a mix of fiction, poetry, philosophy and art books. Like any bookshop worth its salt, there are so many titles crammed in every corner you can hardly walk around

without bumping into a stack. In addition to selling books and coffee, Crack Up also offers writing workshops and hosts the occasional literature discussion.

Of course trendy Palermo would be home to only the most beautiful librerías, and Libros del Pasaje (see p101) is no exception. Wooden ladders climbing to the top rows of shelves, a beautiful interior patio-café, an ample children’s literature section with miniature chairs and tables – every corner is ridiculously charming. On the shelves there is a nice balance of best sellers and lesser-known

Around Town

The basics

Buenos Aires isn’t the Paris of South America, and Avenida Corrientes is not the Latin version of Broadway, but any city with a giant metal flower and an obelisk as its primary landmarks shouldn’t be subjected to such trite comparisons anyway.

The capital of a nation where dictatorships and revolutions are still recent history, Buenos Aires is a chaotic amalgamation of incongruities.

Antiquated, elegantly crumbling buildings in San Telmo sit beside slick, modern Puerto Madero. Macho attitudes still reign supreme in a city where the presidential palace is painted a blushing shade of pink and every street in chichi Puerto Madero is named after a famous Argentinian woman.

And though it’s urban down to the core, Buenos Aires is home to a number of impressive green spaces, including the massive Bosques de Palermo, a Japanese garden and the sprawling Reserva Ecológica Costanera Sur. Leave expectations behind when visiting the Argentinian capital and don’t worry about trying to see it all in one trip; as the many former tourists now residing here can attest, Buenos Aires is a city that calls you back.

Plaza de Mayo BA’s historic central square is still a magnet for protests and celebrations, which gravitate towards the vividly pink Casa Rosada presidential palace on its eastern side. Facing it, the Cabildo was the headquarters of the city council from 1580 to 1821. On the northern side of the plaza, the neoclassical Catedral Metropolitana houses the remains of the liberator José de San Martín, who died in France in 1850. At the centre of the Plaza is the Pirámide de Mayo, an obelisk raised in 1811 for the first anniversary of the May revolution. Don’t miss the white-headscarved Madres de Plaza de Mayo, who still march around the pyramid with banners and photos each Thursday from 3.30pm, protesting the disappearance of their sons and daughters during the last military dictatorship (1976-83).

Subte A, Plaza de Mayo or D, Catedral or E, Bolívar/bus 22, 56, 126. Map C5. ! Take five Stop in for Patagonian ice-cream and artisanal chocolates at Abuela Goye (Hipólito Yrigoyen 428, 4342 8121).

Avenida de Mayo European-style buildings with exquisite architectural details make this avenue, which links the Plaza de Mayo with Congress, 15 blocks west, a lovely choice for an atmospheric city-centre stroll. The outstanding edifice is the Palacio Barolo at number 1370. One of the city’s most emblematic buildings, this wonderful 1923 construction is a neo-Gothic tribute to the 100 cantos of Dante’s Divine Comedy.

Subte A, Plaza de Mayo, Perú, Piedras, Lima, Sáenz Peña or D, Catedral or E, Bolívar/bus 39, 64, 168. Map C4, C5. ! Take five Do as many of BA’s literati did before you and wile away an afternoon in the grand Café Tortoni (see p23).

Congreso This relatively run-down downtown neighbourhood nevertheless contains a few flashes of grandeur. Completed in 1906, the parliament building, Palacio del Congreso is a grand dome-andcolumn affair, and can be visited via a free guided tour in English on Monday, Tuesday, Thursday and Friday at 11am and 4pm (4010 3000, www.congreso. gov.ar, closed Jan).

Subte A, Congreso/bus 12, 60, 105.

Map C3, C4, D4. ! Take five Sample Colombian arepas at hole-in-the-wall spot I Love Arepa (Rodríguez Peña 33, 4381 1047).

Tribunales The heart of the city’s legal scene, Tribunales is home to law courts and law firms. The centrepiece of the neighbourhood is the Palacio de Justicia, seat of the Supreme Court.

Stretching out in front as far as Avenida Córdoba is Plaza Lavalle, an attractive green spot rich in history and sprawling ceibo trees. Across the plaza, filling a whole block, is the magnificent Teatro Colón (see p140). The Diagonal Norte avenue (also known as Roque Sáenz Peña), which links Tribunales with the Plaza de Mayo, is a masterpiece of urban harmony whose every building is ten storeys tall and has a second-floor balcony. Erected in 1936 to mark the 400th anniversary of the founding of the city, the phallic, 68-metre cement spike El Obelisco sits at the intersection of Avenida

Corrientes and Avenida 9 de Julio, said to be the widest street in the world.

Eight blocks down in the middle of Avenida 9 de Julio near the intersection of Avenida Belgrano, stands the Ministry of Social Development building, emblazoned on two sides with gigantic contrasting murals of Eva Perón, which are illuminated at night. Facing the north of the city, Evita appears caught up in a fiery speech, while on the other side she casts her saintly smile over the traditionally working-class barrios of the south. The epicentre of BA’s mainstream theatre district lies just west of the obelisk, along a razzledazzle stretch of Avenida Corrientes that extends up to Avenida Callao. Until the 1970s, Avenida Corrientes had a vibrant coffee-drinking, literatureloving nocturnal scene, centred around its bars, cafés and late-night bookshops, the latter of which are now rather run-down, but still have the power to enchant bookworms.

Subte A, Sáenz Peña or B, Uruguay or D, Tribunales/bus 60, 86, 168. Map C3, D4. ! Take five Tuck into a slice of thick-crust mozzarella pizza and fainá (chickpea bread) at Güerrín (Avenida Corrientes 1368).

Microcentro On weekdays during business hours the downtown district is a maelstrom of porteños shopping, working, running, shouting and flouting traffic laws. The motherlode of the mayhem is pedestrianised calle Florida, an elegant thoroughfare back in the day, but now unashamedly commercial. Nearby calle Lavalle, on the other hand, packed with B-movie cinemas and gaudy, eye-searing signs, makes the hectic calle Florida look positively chic in comparison.

THE CENTRE

French-style palaces, wide avenues and green plazas meet choking traffic and clamorous protestors: the city’s 116 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014

Buenos Aires is no stranger to gourgeous graffiti.

IMAGE COURTESY OF RUN DON'T WALK

GETTING AROUND To find your way around, use the map references throughout the magazine, which correspond to the map on page 170. Public transport in BA is excellent, with perhaps the simplest mode for disoriented travellers being the Subte (underground train). Four of its six lines radiate from the centre of the city and are useful for relatively direct, straight-line journeys; the other two lines cross laterally. A single journey costs AR$4.50. Buses, known as colectivos, are the city’s lifeblood, and fares cost AR$5-$6 or AR$2.50-$2.85 with a Sube card (see p172).

If you plan to do much travelling by bus, a Guía T bus routes booklet, sold at kiosks and bookshops or by roaming vendors, will stand you in excellent stead. Use the street index to locate your destination, check which bus lines match the corresponding grid reference, then find one of those lines near your location – or just ask a porteño, since many have an encyclopedic knowledge of bus routes. You can also plan your trip by bus, Subte, train and even by bike online with the useful www.mapa. buenosaires.gob.ar. Taxi drivers pride themselves on city knowledge, but it’s safest to stick to radio taxis with a company phone number on the passenger door, as dishonest drivers have been known to take advantage of tourists. Better still, take to the streets on foot. Buenos Aires is a great city for walking (patchy pavements and dog poo aside) and is best appreciated from a pedestrian’s point of view, camera tucked safely out of sight.

historic and commercial nerve centre, Centro – Microcentro and beyond – is where former splendour and urban dreams compete with grittier realities.

Subte B, Florida or C, Lavalle or D, Catedral/bus 4, 20, 152. Map C5, D5. ! Take five Dadá is always packed with locals looking for good food and buena onda (see p28).

barrio, which has been gradually gentrified over recent years, while retaining much of its native charm.

Heading to San Telmo from Plaza de Mayo, Defensa and Balcarce are the most pleasant and scenic streets to Retiro walk along. The former is lined with For centuries, this area, at a natural antiques shops, while the latter is a bend in the River Plate, was the quieter, cobblestone street. As you northern edge of the city. Today, the walk, you’ll pass several of the tattered area’s main attraction, aside from the mansions and drooping balconies that railway stations (see p172), is its open give San Telmo its unmistakable mood space – the shady green swathe that is and appearance. To see the inside of a Plaza San Martín, which is house from 1880, visit the lovely surrounded by several impressive Pasaje de la Defensa (Defensa buildings, including the Palacio Paz 1179), a refurbished two-storey and the Palacio San Martín. South mansion that is now bristling with America’s tallest building when antiques shops and souvenir stands. inaugurated in 1935, the Kavanagh Plaza Dorrego is one of the few building is another significant plazas in the city where you can landmark, known for its eat and drink al fresco, and daring, rationalist style. on Sundays is the At the foot of the epicentre of the plaza is an obsidian There’s an app for that neighbourhood’s marble cenotaph famous street market, Download the BA Cómo dedicated to those who which sells antiques Llego app on your died in the 1982 and crafts and sprawls smartphone to access Malvinas (Falklands) along calle Defensa the highly useful war. Just over the road almost as far as the interactive stands a clock tower that Plaza de Mayo. It’s one of map was a gift to Argentina from local BA’s most popular, albeit Anglo-Argentinians for the 1910 crowded days out. As always, keep a centennial celebrations. Initially known sharp eye on your belongings. as the Torre de los Ingleses, it was Subte C, Independencia/bus 10, 17, 24, renamed the Torre Monumental after 29, 39, 64, 152. Map B4. the 1982 territorial war with Britain. ! Take five Lamb empanadas, killer Subte C, San Martín, Retiro/bus 6, 20, kebabs and fresh falafel are the bee’s 93, 152. Map D5, D6. knees at El Banco Rojo (Bolívar 914, ! Take five Order a French press 4362 3177). coffee and pistachio eclair at New York-style Grand Café (see p23).

La Boca In space and spirit, La Boca is as far SOUTH OF THE CENTRE south as BA goes, divided from the When people talk about ‘bohemian’ vast suburbs of Greater Buenos Aires Buenos Aires, more often than not they by the dark, toxic gloop of the are referring to the southern barrios of Riachuelo river. The barrio’s main the city – Monserrat, San Telmo attraction, Caminito, is a short, and La Boca in particular. pedestrianised street – a garish tourist trap to some; but an interesting Monserrat glimpse, nevertheless, of the city’s This historic barrio attracts less historic port neighbourhood. The tourism than San Telmo, but its corrugated zinc shacks stacked on heritage and architecture are in a class each side of the wide path (caminito) of their own. The Iglesia de San owe their vivid colours to impoverished Ignacio, on the corner of Alsina and locals, who, back in the day, begged Bolívar, dates from 1734 and is the incoming ships for excess tins of paint oldest church in the city. It’s part of the to brighten up their homes.

Manzana de las Luces, a set of These days, the area is thronged historic buildings that occupies an with tango dancers, models posing as entire city block and which has at tango dancers, artisans, tourists and a various times been a Jesuit school and healthy complement of grafters. We residence, a university library and the can’t stress it enough: stick to the representative chamber from which obviously tourist area around Caminito Buenos Aires province was governed and avoid the neighbourhood after until 1880. You can tour the chamber, dark, since La Boca has a bad the patios and a series of 18th-century reputation for robberies of tourists tunnels that used to link the building to who stray off the beaten track. the riverbank behind what is now Don’t miss the Fundación Proa Plaza de Mayo, several hundred metres (see p124), a magnificent art gallery away. that plays host to some of the city’s Subte A, Piedras or C, Moreno or E, most important international Bolívar/bus 2, 23, 91, 98. Map C4. exhibitions. The new cultural centre ! Take five Feast on grilled and performance space Usina del sandwiches at lunchtime favourite Arte (see p141) is also helping to give Latino Sandwich (Tacuarí 185, 4331 tourists reasons beyond Caminito to 0859). visit the southern barrio.

Bus 20, 25, 29, 46, 64, 86, 152,168.

San Telmo Map A1, A4.

Tourists are entranced by the ! Take five Head to the third floor cobblestone streets and crumbling gourmet café for a light lunch with a mansions of this classic working-class view at Fundación Proa (see p124).

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Around Town Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014 117

Around Town

JOSÉ ZAMBRANO

The recently constructed Metrobus along Avenida 9 de Julio.

Constitución, Barracas & Boedo Run-down Constitución is best known for its railway station, built in the 1880s to help wealthy weekenders get to the coast. These days the grand station serves working-class commuters from the southern suburbs, with a forecourt that is a byword for chaos, in a whirl of vendors, vagrants and armed police.

Neighbouring Barracas was once a hotbed for working-class protest movements but now it shows tentative signs of gentrification. Its biggest attraction is artist Marino Santa María’s mosaic-based ‘urban intervention’ (imagine a cooler, postmodern version of La Boca’s Caminito) on calle Lanín (www. marinosantamaria.com).

Both Barracas and Constitución have a reputation for being dangerous after dark. Exploring them alone at night is not recommended and it’s advisable to avoid the area around the Constitución train station. Boedo, an attractive neighbourhood filled with bohemian cafés, bars and theatres, is home of the San Lorenzo football club, and one of the cradles of tango.

Subte C, Constitución or E, Boedo, Independencia/bus 20, 56, 59, 84, 100, 126, 160. Map A2, A3, B2, B3, C3, D1. ! Take five Grab an artisanal beer at Boedo’s Cossab (Carlos Calvo 4199, 4925 2505).

NORTH OF THE CENTRE

In 1871, when wealthy porteños fled a yellow fever epidemic in the previously affluent southern barrios, they gravitated en masse to Barrio Norte.

Mansions and palaces soon spread to Recoleta and Palermo, today the most stylish and European of all the capital’s districts.

Recoleta & Barrio Norte It’s Buenos Aires’s most exclusive patch of real estate – but nobody lives there. We refer, of course, to the Cementerio de la Recoleta, one of the world’s great necropolises. A walk down its fine avenues and alleys is one of BA’s undisputed delights; and though many presidents are entombed here, the resting place of María Eva Duarte de Perón, aka Evita, is probably the graveyard’s biggest draw. Although by no means the most impressive tomb, this one’s always surrounded by people and fresh flowers.

Next to the cemetery’s entrance is the whitewashed Basílica Nuestra Señora del Pilar, founded in 1716 by Jesuit missionaries, with superb art and performance venue Centro Cultural Recoleta (see p122) just next door.

Plaza Francia, directly north-east of the cultural centre, is taken over every weekend by an excellent handicrafts fair, while facing it across the wide Avenida Figueroa Alcorta, the neoclassical Facultad de Derecho (law faculty) cuts an imposing figure.

Don’t miss the huge, shining Floralis Genérica sculpture immediately to its left. Designed by architect Eduardo Catalano, it’s a steel and aluminium flower sculpture with petals that were designed to open and close daily with the sun. Mechanical problems with one of the petals immobilised the flower in 2010, with no resolution yet as to who will foot the US$125,000 bill to fix it.

Subte D, Agüero, Pueyrredón/bus 39, 64, 93, 110, 152. Map E4, E5, F4. ! Take five Order a slice of decadent cheesecake at Florencio (see p23).

Palermo Immense Palermo contains a number of subdivisions, some semi-official and

118 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014

others surely dreamt up by real estate agents. Most people accept three areas: Palermo Chico (bordering Recoleta) for embassies and the filthy rich; leafy Palermo Viejo (comprising Palermo Hollywood and Palermo Soho) for global cuisine and funky boutiques; and Palermo for the rest, including the expanses of greenery.

Palermo’s Plaza Italia is a transport hub for buses and one of the noisiest, busiest junctions in the city. Off to one side lies the zoo, the Jardín Zoológico (Avenida Santa Fe, y Avenida Las Heras, 4011 9900, www.zoobuenosaires. com.ar, closed Mon). Constructed between 1888 and 1904, the zoo’s buildings mimic the architecture of the animals’ native countries in a landscape of scaled-down follies. Also bordering Plaza Italia is the beginning of the barrio’s large expanse of greenery, in the form of the slightly shabby but pleasingly tranquil botanical gardens.

Inaugurated in 1898, the Jardín Botánico Carlos Thays (Avenida Santa Fe 3951, 4831 4527) is full of fountains, statues, orchids, cacti, ferns and spectacular trees – and an army of feral cats.

Parque Tres de Febrero is the city’s largest green lung and a great place for a breather from the concrete jungle. Within its limits is the delightfully pretty Rosedal (rose garden), entered at avenidas Iraola and Presidente Montt. It’s the highlight of Palermo’s Parque Tres de Febrero, and within it lies the Jardín de los Poetas, its peaceful fountains surrounded by busts of literary giants, a tiled Patio Andaluz and a shaded pergola by the lake. Look out for native bird life such as the hornero (oven bird – it has an oven-shaped nest). Non-birders may prefer to float on the lake (pedalos and boats are available for hire). At night

the area, also known as the Bosques de Palermo (Palermo woods), can be dangerous and is a well-known pick-up spot for transvestite prostitutes. Inside the park and flanked by avenidas Casares and Berro, the lovely Jardín Japonés (Japanese garden) was created in 1967 as a gift from the city’s Japanese community.

Parque Tres de Febrero is also home to the golf-ball-shaped Planetario (Avenida Belisario Roldán y Sarmiento, 4771 9393, www.planetario.gov.ar, closed Mon). Its telescopes can be used by the public on Saturday and Sunday, and there are science-themed functions daily.

Subte D, Bulnes, Scalabrini Ortiz, Plaza Italia/bus 39, 59, 60, 152. Map F3, F4, F5, G4, G5. ! Take five Indulge in salmon bagels and whoopie pies at the Palermo branch of Malvón (see p26).

Palermo Viejo Comprising Palermo Soho and Palermo Hollywood (Soho is south-east of Avenida Juan B Justo and Hollywood is north-west), Palermo Viejo was run down and romantic until the early 1990s. It has since been radically gentrified by an influx of hip restaurants, trendy nightclubs and bars, and by copious quantities of fashion and design outlets. Plazoleta Cortázar (more commonly known as Plaza Serrano) remains popular, and some of those who find the area’s new bars too pricey or pretentious can be found here, under the lime trees with a bottle of Quilmes beer.

Such has been the impact of new money on Palermo Soho that in the past few years the lifestyle boom has spilled across Avenida Juan B Justo into the area known as ‘Palermo Hollywood’ for the number of TV production companies located there. Even more expensive restaurants and a bewildering number of bars are to be found in this zone, catering to media types.

Subte D, Palermo, Plaza Italia/bus 10, 29, 39, 64, 67, 93, 152. Map F3. ! Take five Stop for Colombian coffee at newly reopened Full City Coffee House (see p24).

Las Cañitas A buzzing residential and dining district, Las Cañitas is fringed by the polo ground and racecourse (see p130) and is a focal point for the monied socialites of Palermo and Belgrano. By night, the bars on calle Báez fill up quickly, particularly on weekends.

However, Las Cañitas has little in the way of historical or cultural interest apart from the Centro Cultural Islámico Rey Fahd mega-mosque at avenidas Bullrich and del Libertador.

Bus 42, 59, 67, 68, 152. Map H4. ! Take five Order a shawarma or falafel at Syrian restaurant Al-Zein (Arce 488, 4775 1402).

Belgrano Like Palermo, Belgrano is a large, affluent barrio divided unofficially into several sub-districts. These include Belgrano R, an upscale residential zone characterised by half-timbered houses and cobbled streets; Barrancas de

Belgrano, an attractive park on a slope; and BA’s Barrio Chino (Chinatown), located on and around calle Arribeños between Juramento and Blanco Encalada. Belgrano’s main artery is migraine-inducing Avenida Cabildo, dominated by mid-market clothing retailers, particularly shoe shops.

Bus 42, 55, 60, 64, 130. ! Take five Try the pizza a la parrilla at La Más Querida (Echeverría 1618, 4788 1455).

WEST OF THE CENTRE

The city’s western districts are real-world BA – where ordinary porteños live and work. Abasto is being spruced up and given back some of its tango heritage, while traditional residential barrios like Villa Crespo and Almagro are well worth exploring for their neighbourhood bars and restaurants off busy avenidas Corrientes and Rivadavia.

at La Cresta Casa de Spiedo (Bulnes 829, 4864 4417).

Chacarita Like many one-time outlying barrios, Chacarita developed around a railway station, Federico Lacroze. The terminus, opened in 1880, is now little more than a run-down shed for suburban trains. Equally gloomy but far more interesting is the Cementerio de la Chacarita on the other side of Avenida Guzmán. The cemetery was borne of grim necessity: to house the dead of the 1871 yellow fever epidemic.

Much bigger than Recoleta’s necropolis, with numbered streets and car access to its thousands of vaults, it’s largely for ordinary folk, although tango superstar Carlos Gardel is buried here.

Subte B, Federico Lacroze/bus 42, 44, 47, 63, 111, 112, 127. Map H1, H2. ! Take five Tuck into artisanal French bread and pastries at L’épi Boulangerie (Roseti 1769, 4552 6402).

Around Town

Once & Abasto Once (pronounced ‘ON-say’), west of Mataderos downtown along Avenida Corrientes, is Out west in an area that was once the the city’s most hectic commercial heart of Argentina’s slaughterhouse district: a warren of wholesale fabric (matadero) industry, gauchos of all outlets long associated with BA’s ages show off their skills with guitars Jewish population, and also home to and horses, and day trippers indulge Korean, Middle Eastern and Peruvian in home-made country food and communities. browse the crafts market at the Just along from Once, at Avenida popular Feria de Mataderos (www.

Corrientes and Anchorena, is the feriademataderos.com.ar), a rural-style beautiful Mercado de Abasto weekend fair. A 45-minute bus ride building, a soaring art deco from the city centre (bus 55), the fair masterpiece that was built in the 1930s takes place from March to December as a wholesale market serving the from 11am to 8pm on Sundays, and in entire city. In 1998, the building was late January and February from 6pm to the first in the barrio to be gentrified 1am on Saturdays. when it was converted into the ! Take five Enjoy a vintage Abasto de Buenos BA pit stop at Bar Oviedo Aires shopping centre (Lisandro de la Torre (see p110). You’ll find the 2407, 4687 8690), Museo de los Niños founded in 1900.

Bus drivers won’t pull (Children’s Museum) over just because you’re ALONG THE RIVER inside. at their stop, so be sure Subte B, Carlos Gardel, Chances to enjoy the to signal when your ride Pasteur, Pueyrredón/bus coast may seem rare, is approaching.

24, 68, 88, 92, 104, 132, but beside the brown, 168, 188, 194. Map D3, E3. silty river, there are plenty of ! Take five Go for the huge eating, strolling and natureportions of chicken, chips and salad at watching opportunities. no-frills Peruvian restaurant Carlitos Puerto Madero & Costanera Sur (Corrientes 3070, 4861 6440).

Puerto Madero, the swish, renovated Almagro, Caballito dockland area east of Plaza de Mayo, is & Villa Crespo divided into two lengthy promenades West of Abasto, these attractive on either side of the docks, Puerto middle-class barrios are often what Madero Oeste (west) and Este (east). A people mean when they talk about the walk along either side gives you a ‘real’ BA. Parque Centenario, in chance to ponder the area’s investment Caballito, is the main public park for property boom, visible in countless these neighbourhoods and is busy at rising apartment blocks. On the weekends. The park contains the western side, the Buque Museo Museo Argentino de Ciencias Fragata Presidente Sarmiento is a Naturales Bernardino Rivadavia 19th-century frigate built in Birkenhead (see p122). Almagro and Villa Crespo and used as a navy training ship. It’s are traditional neighbourhoods now a wonderful museum full of increasingly attracting fashionable photos, maps and objects. To its south bars and shops that can’t (or won’t) is the eye-catching Puente de la pay Palermo’s sky-high leases. Life in Mujer (Woman’s Bridge), a pedestrian both revolves around the busy Avenida swing bridge with a spar-and-cable arc Corrientes. shape, lit up at night.

Subte A, Castro Barros or B, Ángel Further south still lies the Reserva Gallardo, Malabia, Medrano/bus 55, Ecológica Costanera Sur (closed 92, 124, 168. Map E1, F1, F2, G1.

Mon), BA’s wilderness on the watery ! Take five Nothing beats the edge of the city. The long esplanade flavoursome, cheap wraps and salads skirting the reserve is one of the city’s

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Around Town

EMILY JENSEN

Buenos Aires Market.

Recommended Moving Markets

Sure there’s a chino (small, local shop), kiosko and veludería (fruit and vegetable stand) on every corner, but despite the quantity of supermarkets, there’s little diversity from one to another. For a more varied take on Argentinian foodstuffs, track down one of BA’s gourmet or organic markets. Some have unfixed locations and limited hours, but finding them is all part of the fun.

Buenos Aires Market With such a wide range of products available, the hardest part is deciding at which stall you ought to queue (and expect there to be queues at every stall). The local and organic items at this very popular open-air market range from pantry goods like artisanal pastas, jams, olive oil, speciality teas and organic wines, to food to eat on site, like fresh smoothies, soy meat empanadas, veggie stir-fry and a plethora of baked goods. Read up online (www. buenosairesmarket.com) to learn when and where the next edition will be.

Where/When Rotating locations, including Bosques de Palermo, Barrancas de Belgrano and Parque Rivadavia, 10am-7pm Saturday, Sunday, monthly.

What to buy Zuelo’s ridiculously good intenso olive oil and a crusty baguette from L’épi Boulangerie.

Mercado de Economía Solidaria Bonpland Despite its location in a trendy barrio, this market is about more than just fancy jams and wine. The vendors are dedicated to using environmentally-sound production and non-exploitative labour methods, and funds go to support many community projects and local charities. If that’s not enough to entice you to shop, there are also plenty of good wines, jam, cheese and dried goods for sale.

Where/When Bonpland 1660, 10am-8pm Tuesday, Wednesday, Friday, Saturday.

What to buy Dulce de leche de oveja from La Huerta Familiar – as in dulce de leche made with sheep’s milk.

Le Petit Marché de Buenos Aires A bonafide marché français in Buenos Aires, with crêpes, canelés, eclairs, croque-monsieurs, wine and cheese, among other gourmet and artisanal products to satisfy your inner Francophile. Eat a meal on-site and enjoy the live music, or stock up on goodies to take home. Look at the Facebook page for information on the next edition.

Where/When Check Facebook for location, noon-6.30pm Saturday, Sunday, approximately bimonthly.

What to buy Melt-in-your-mouth macaroons from Kikines.

El Galpón Local vendors and farmers gather twice a week at El Galpón, located in a large yellow warehouse next to the Federico Lacroze train station. The Saturday market gets crowded quickly, as many people go to stock up on hard-to-find items like organic produce, meat and poultry, goat’s cheese, gluten-free baked goods, artisanal beer and fernet, and natural beauty products. At the entrance there is also a restaurant with empanadas and tartas available to eat-in or take home.

Where/When Avenida Federico Lacroze 4171, 9am-6pm Wednesday, Saturday.

What to buy La Choza’s sweet and tangy blackberry yoghurt.

BA Underground Market Hosted by English-language publication The Argentina Independent, the BA Underground Market fills up with gringos and backpackers looking to sample cuisines from around the world. Arepas, chicken wings, waffles, bratwurst, cannoli and other such dishes you won’t find at supermarkets have all made past appearances, but despite the varied vendors, you can get away with ordering in English. See The Indy’s Facebook page for updates on the next market’s date and location.

Where/When Check Facebook for location, noon-5pm Saturday, approximately every three months.

What to buy An artisanal Argentinian beer from Bodega Cervecera.

120 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014

most pleasant spaces for walking; and within the reserve, four lakes, giant cortaderas (foxtail pampas grass), willows and shrubs provide natural habitats for more than 200 bird species, not to mention a bit of privacy for cruising gay men. Iguanas can sometimes be spotted scuttling across the hard earth, but at weekends you’re more likely to see joggers, cyclists and picnickers, when up to 15,000 visitors come to the reserve for fresh air and a glimpse of the murky river.

Subte B, LN Alem/bus 26, 61, 93, 152, 159, 195. Map B5, B6. ! Take five For a twist on the prized Argentinian beef, try the elegant Le Grill (see p40), which offers aged cuts of meat.

Costanera Norte & Núñez North of town, skirting the domestic airport, is a traditional promenade, thronged most Sundays with anglers and day trippers. South of the airport is the Club de Pescadores, a private fishing club of which tango legend Carlos Gardel was once a member.

North of the airport is religious theme park Tierra Santa (Avenida Costanera Rafael Obligado 5790, 0800 444 3467, www.tierrasanta-bsas.com. ar). ‘A chance to visit Jerusalem all year round’, the park is without a doubt an interesting sight, even for the unbelievers. The pièce de résistance is the Resurrection, every half an hour when an 18-metre Jesus rises from the park’s central mountain.

On the final curve of the Costanera Norte is the Parque de la Memoria.

Developed in remembrance of victims of the 1976-83 military dictatorship, the tasteful memorial park was completed in 2005. Its centrepiece is the Monumento a las Víctimas del Terrorismo de Estado, consisting of stone tablets bearing the names of the ‘disappeared’, many of whom were drugged and thrown from planes to their deaths in the river beside the park.

Further west, the residential neighbourhood of Núñez borders BA province, and is home to the River Plate football club Estadio Monumental (Avenida Figueroa Alcorta 7597) as well as the riverside Parque de los Niños (Avenida Cantilo y General Paz), one of the city’s largest green spaces.

Nearby, at Avenida del Libertador 8151, the former Escuela de Mecánica de la Armada, known as ‘La ESMA’, was the country’s most notorious torture centre during the military dictatorship, where 5,000 men and women were clandestinely held for charges of ‘subversion’. Most were never seen again. The campus was renamed the Espacio para la Memoria y para la Promoción y Defensa de los Derechos Humanos (4704 7538, www. institutomemoria.org.ar) and transformed into a museum. Tours (English and Spanish) can be arranged on request.

Bus 28, 33, 45, 130, 152. Map H6. ! Take five In Núñez, dine on seasonal, fresh food and sample fantastic wine and cocktails at Oporto Almacén (see p66).

Museums

Buenos Aires’s museums may not benefit from the world-class curation or lavish funding those in other major capital cities enjoy, but that’s not to say you should banish them from your to-do list. Whether you want to step back in time with a dose of history, soak up some artistic vibes, glimpse into the lives of the city’s legends or keep the little ones entertained, there’s something to suit all agendas in BA. Some museums have excellent lunch spots, particularly the restaurant at the Museo Evita and Croque Madame at the Museo Nacional de Arte Decorativo. Museums devoted to art are listed in the Art section (see p123).

RETIRO

Museo de Arte Hispanoamericano Isaac Fernández Blanco This baroque-style building houses Spanish-American paintings, religious objects and an important collection of colonial silverware. The museum’s ‘Ayres de Arte’ walking tour on Wednesdays and Fridays at 3.30pm takes you down calle Arroyo to check out the surrounding buildings’ architecture.

Suipacha 1422, entre Arroyo y Avenida del Libertador (4327 0228). Bus 17,

MONSERRAT AND SAN TELMO

Museo del Bicentenario Tucked behind the Casa Rosada, this museum, opened in 2011 to mark 201 years of independence, delivers a heavy hit of pro-government propaganda. The restored space is in the city’s former fort, and artefacts, artworks, campaign posters and videos are used to explore the nation’s political history. Highlights include the mural Ejército Plástico (Plastic Army) by Mexican artist David Siqueiros and the bloodied headscarf of Madres de Plaza de Mayo leader Hebe de Bonafini following blows received at a protest rally.

Paseo Colón 100, e Hipólito Yrigoyen (4344 3802/www.museo.gov.ar). Subte A, Plaza de Mayo or D, Catedral or E, Bolívar/bus 29, 129. Open 10am-8pm Wed-Sun. Admission free. Map C5.

Museo Histórico Nacional del Cabildo The first steps towards Argentina’s independence were taken here, the city’s HQ from 1580 to 1821. The austere museum contains items such as a magnificent gold and silver piece from Oruro, Bolivia and items relating to the English invasions. Behind the building is a shaded colonial patio and café, which makes a great al fresco lunch spot; it is also the site of a handicrafts fair on Thursdays and Fridays from 11am to 6pm.

Bolívar 65, entre Avenida de Mayo e Hipólito Yrigoyen (4334 1782/www. cabildonacional.com.ar). Subte A, Plaza de Mayo or D, Catedral or E, Bolívar/ bus 28, 56, 105. Open 10.30am-5pm Wed-Fri; 11.30am-6pm Sat, Sun & public holidays. Admission by donation. No credit cards. Map C5.

El Zanjón de Granados Part archaeological museum, part event space, El Zanjón encapsulates three centuries of urban living. The façade dates from 1830, but traces from an earlier patrician home – an open-air cistern, a lookout tower and a 1740 wall comprised of seashell mortaring – take you back to the era of Spanish settlement. The treasure trove of objects uncovered here during excavations includes French tiles, African pipes and English china.

Tours of the Casa Mínima across the street are by reservation only on Fridays at 4pm.

Defensa 755, entre Chile y Avenida Independencia (4361 3002/www. elzanjon.com.ar). Bus 28, 29. Open 11am-3pm Mon-Fri (tours on the hour); 1-6pm Sun (tours every 30mins).

Admission AR$120 Mon-Fri; AR$75 Sun. Map B4.

LA BOCA

Museo de la Pasión Boquense To feel the pasión, visit La Bombonera stadium on a match day. For everything else Boca-related, this museum scores high. There are audio-visual gadgets, loads of facts

and figures and, of course, tributes to La Boca’s most enduring and legendary hero, Diego Maradona.

Brandsen 805, y la Vía (4362 1100/ www.museoboquense.com). Bus 10, 24.

Open 10am-6pm daily. Closed on match days. Admission AR$65; Museum & stadium tour AR$80 (11am-6pm on the hour). Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map A1.

RECOLETA AND BARRIO NORTE

Museo Nacional de Arte Decorativo Built in 1911, this grand mansion has a façade incorporating French, Corinthian and Tuscan elements. Its stunning ballrooms, sumptuous bedrooms and hallways display more than 4,000 pieces of decorative art.

Tours in English are at 2.30pm from Tuesday to Friday.

Avenida del Libertador 1902, y Pereyra Lucena (4801 8248/www.mnad.org).

Bus 10, 59, 60, 67, 130. Open 2-7pm Tue-Sun. Admission AR$15; Tour AR$15. Free Tue. Map F5. !Museo Participativo de Ciencias ‘Prohibido no tocar’ (‘it’s forbidden not to touch’) is the motto of this science museum, where kids can explore the natural sciences. Themed rooms include ‘no me mates matemática’ (don’t kill me, maths) and ‘la mesa está servida’ (dinner is served).

1st floor, Centro Cultural Recoleta, Junín 1930, y Quintana, (4807 3260/ www.mpc.org.ar). Bus 10, 17, 59.

Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014 121

Around Town

HOW TO USE THE LISTINGS ! denotes a museum that is suitable or primarily intended for children. " denotes a museum we particularly recommend.

152. Open 2-7pm Tue-Fri; 11am-7pm Sat, Sun. Closed May. Admission AR$5.00. Free Wed, Thur. Map D6.

Open 3.30-7.30pm Tue-Sun. Admission AR$40; free under-4s. No credit cards. Map E5.

Around Town

"Museo Xul Solar This museum-cum-gallery contains a collection of esoteric objects, instruments and quirky art by the city’s most eccentric, self-proclaimed visionary: the sailor-turned-painter, astrologer, mathematician, writer and philologist Oscar Agustín Alejandro Schulz Solari (1887-1963), known as Xul Solar. Acclaimed by his friend Borges as ‘one of the most singular occurrences of his time’, Solar invented his own language (Pan) and lived in his own personal time.

Laprida 1212, y Mansilla (4824 3302/ www.xulsolar.org.ar). Subte D, Agüero/ bus 12, 39, 68, 106, 111, 152, 188, 194. Open noon-8pm Mon-Fri; noon-7pm Sun. Admission AR$20.

Map E4.

PALERMO

"Museo de Arte Popular José Hernández This museum’s well-curated collection comprises elements from Argentina’s rural past, including maté gourds, spurs, knives and other assorted gaucho paraphernalia.

Avenida del Libertador 2373, y San Martín de Tours (4803 2384/ museohernandez.buenosaires.gob.ar).

Bus 10, 37, 59. Open 1-7pm Wed-Fri; 10am-8pm Sat, Sun & public holidays.

Admission AR$5; free under-12s. Free Sun. Map F5.

Museo Evita Housed in an aristocratic residence that Perón expropriated to convert into a women’s shelter for his wife’s quasi-statal welfare agency, this museum is worth a visit if only to see the range of myths Evita inspires in Argentina. There are paintings, posters and busts, as well as outfits and her libreta cívica (ID card), no. 0.000.001.

Arguably better than the museum is the restaurant and terrace (see p48).

Lafinur 2988, y Gutiérrez (4807 9433/www.museoevita.org).

Subte D, Plaza Italia/bus 37, 59.

Open 11am-7pm Tue-Sun. Admission AR$20; with guided tour AR$40. Map G4.

CABALLITO

!Museo Argentino de Ciencias Naturales Bernardino Rivadavia This natural history museum, set in Caballito’s lovely Parque Centenario, is thrilling for children who are dotty for dinosaurs. The museum’s star skeleton belongs to a carnotaurus – the ‘bad guy’ in Disney’s Dinosaur.

Avenida Ángel Gallardo 470, y Marechal (4982 4494/ www.macn.gov.ar). Subte B, Ángel Gallardo/bus 15, 55, 124, 135, 141, 146. Open 2-7pm daily. Admission AR$10; free under-6s. Map F1.

Cultural centres

ONCE AND ABASTO

Museo Casa Carlos Gardel A tribute to one of the 20th century’s greatest exponents of popular song, the Gardel museum – once Carlos Gardel’s Abasto home – preserves and exhibits various items that either belonged to, or were connected with, the tango legend who tragically died young in a plane crash in Colombia while on tour. Among the museum’s activities are free tango classes and singing lessons (call to check times).

The museum also screens films that the tango king acted – and sang – in.

Jean Jaurès 735, y San Luis (4964 2015/www.museocasacarlosgardel. buenosaires.gob.ar). Subte B, Carlos Gardel/bus 24, 29. Open 11am-6pm Mon, Wed-Fri; 10am-7pm Sat, Sun. Admission AR$5. Free Wed. Map E3.

BA’s centros culturales form the backbone of the city’s cultural life, running theatre, film, music, dance and photography events.

LOCAL CULTURE

JOSÉ ZAMBRANO

With an eclectic programme including indie cinema and experimental theatre, the Centro Cultural Borges (Galerías Pacífico, Viamonte 525, y San Martín, 5555 5358, www.ccborges.org. ar) has hosted many of the must-see shows of recent years. The Centro Cultural de la Cooperación (Avenida Corrientes 1543, 5077 8077, www.centrocultural.coop) has a packed programme of theatre, music, art exhibitions and children’s shows.

Admission is free at the Centro Cultural Recoleta (Junín 1930, 4803 1040, www.centroculturalrecoleta.org), a much-loved standard on the BA art scene. It hosts works ranging from art produced by psychiatric patients to displays of traditional textiles.

The Centro Cultural Ricardo Rojas (Avenida Corrientes 2038, 4954 5521, www.rojas.uba.ar) stages experimental theatre. At the Centro Cultural San Martín (Sarmiento 1551, 4374 1251, www.ccgsm.gov.ar), there’s independent theatre, dance and workshops in video, cinema, music and visual arts. Exhibitions, gigs and workshops are held at Almagro’s Club Cultural Matienzo (Pringles 1249, ccmatienzo.com.ar).

INTERNATIONAL

Teatro Astral on Avenida Corrientes.

122 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014

The French language institution Alianza Francesa (Avenida Córdoba 936, 4322 0068, www.alianzafrancesa. org.ar), is also a prestigious cultural centre screening international cinema.

For plays, films and TV shows in English, visit the British Arts Centre in Retiro (Suipacha 1333, 4393 6941, www.britishartscentre.org.ar).

Promoting visual arts by Argentinian and Spanish artists, the Centro Cultural de España (Florida 943, 4312 3214, www.cceba.org.ar) focuses on digital art. There is another space in Recoleta (Paraná 1159).

At the Goethe Institute (Avenida Corrientes 319, 4318 5600, www.goethe. de/buenosaires), a sometimes edgy programme of events is complemented

by German videos, plus a language institute.

Tour selector Anuva Wines www.anuvawines.com Wine tastings led by friendly sommeliers in Palermo. Excellent wines served. US$52.

BA Free Tour www.bafreetour.com Proving the best things in life can be free, BA Free Tour offers guided walks through the city. Tips appreciated.

Biking Buenos Aires www.bikingbuenosaires.com Fun, informative guides show you the city by bike on half- and full-day tours.

Specialist graffiti and architecture tours also offered. From US$90.

Buenos Aires Local Tours www.buenosaireslocaltours.com Discover the city while travelling by bus and Subte, accompanied by a friendly and knowledgeable Englishspeaking guide. By donation.

The Buenos Aires Pub Crawl www.buenosairespubcrawl.com A night of debauchery in BA’s hottest bars and clubs. If you can stay on your feet the whole night that is. US$25.

Circuito Papal circuitopapal@buenosaires.gob.ar A free tour dedicated to all things Pope Francis, either by bus or on foot.

Cicerones www.cicerones.org.ar Tailor-made tours led by multilingual volunteer guides. By donation.

Cultours www.cultour.com.ar View Argentina’s past through scars left by bomb shrapnel and plaques marking fallen protesters on the BA Traces walking tour. From US$15.

Foto Ruta www.foto-ruta.com Learn the art of street photography while discovering the city. US$32.

Night Aires www.night-aires.com These guys organise your night out with VIP passes to hip haunts.

Parrilla Tour BA www.parrillatour.com Discover authentic steakhouses on this culinary tour of the city. US$69.

Pick Up The Fork Food Tours feedme@pickupthefork.com Get an insiders’ look into the local food scene on these personalised food hops of gastronomic proportions.

From US$90.

Tangol www.tangol.com Tours around the city including trips to football matches and tango shows.

From US$15.

Urban Biking www.urbanbiking.com Explore Tigre and the Delta by train, bike and kayak. From US$130.

For tours and day trips outside the city, see Getting Away (p162).

JOSE ZAMBRANO

Art

New projects are always growing at the Patio.

Locally grown art Sophie Parker explores the rebirth of ‘the Patio’.

‘

Art is magic’, the German-born painter Hans Hofmann once wrote, and there is certainly some sort of alchemy afoot in Barrio Norte, where a virtually abandoned building on Avenida Santa Fe has metamorphosed into one of BA’s hippest and most vibrant art hubs.

Less than a decade ago the Galería Patio del Liceo (Avenida Santa Fe 2729, www.galeriapatiodelliceo. com), a former shopping arcade and one-time school (the liceo of the name) was a no-go location in an otherwise respectable neighbourhood. In recent years, a revitalising shot of energy from an influx of young gallerists, artists and designers has turned the place into a hotbed of creative activity.

The transformation began when farsighted individuals like Antonio Varela and Hernán Taraman began buying retail spaces in the run-down structure at rock-bottom prices.

Varela, who has a background in plumbing and building maintenance, set about the slow process of resuscitating the galería, which was plagued by structural problems and legal disputes. These days it’s

clearly a labour of love for Varela: he’s a regular sight in the Patio, tending to the plants he paid for out of his own pocket and helping out the tenants.

One of the first of those tenants was Nicolás Barraza. The space originally intended as Barraza’s graphic design studio Rostbif is now also home to Mite (see p125), the Patio’s first gallery and its most established: in 2013, Mite, which is run by Barraza and Marina Alessio, held its own alongside heavyweight galleries at BA’s prestigious contemporary art fair ArteBA (see p12).

Alessio herself is the founder of contemporary art specialist bookshop Purr, another early occupant of the Patio.

This kind of overlap of enterprises is typical here: in Espacio Calcarami-Paganini artist Hernán Paganini offers workshops in a space shared with makeup artist Jazmín Calcarami, and Áurea combines workshops with haircuts and exhibitions. The Patio also

houses a handful of independent clothing labels like Greens; a record store, Mercurio; communication and new media specialists Ryokan; plant nursery Paraná; sustainable design shop Kuku; and an upholsterer’s that predates the invasion of arty types, among other businesses. And there is opportunity for interaction between artists and members of the public through an assortment of workshops, from painting at gallery Hache (Unit 37, 4827 0858, www. facebook.com/hachegaleria) or with Paula Duró (Unit 40, www.facebook. com/pauladuro) to photography courses at Santa.

The mishmash of outlets lends the galería a somewhat impromptu air, but the vitality and creative cross-pollination here are part of the pull. Units are now in demand, successful design and publishing firm Monoblock has opened up shop on the ground floor and big name brands like Adidas and Zoo York have got in on the action, holding events at the Patio.

In the tradition of Europe’s art squats, social activities are a big part of life here, and there is a sense of community among the various gallery and shop owners. By mutual consensus Fridays have been designated event nights, with exhibition inaugurations, poetry readings, album launches and parties taking place. But there is clearly some damn hard work going on, as the presence of a number of the Patio’s galleries at ArteBA in recent years clearly demonstrates.

Stablemates Hache and Fiebre (Unit 10, www.fiebregaleria.com.ar) are following the path paved by Mite, which began participating in ArteBA as part of the Barrio Jóven section, where the focus is on new artists and works cost no more than

Social activities are a big part of life here.

US$3000. In 2013, Fiebre received a very positive response at the fair with artwork by Diego Roa, whose mural decorates the wall of the Patio’s bar Baby Snakes. At this year’s Barrio Jóven in May, Hache, under the direction of Herminda Lahitte, will present work by abstract painters Gilda Picabea, Juan Giribaldi, Delfina Moore and Valeria Maggi; while in the principal section of ArteBA, Mite will be represented by artists Paula Castro, Diego de Aduriz, Octavio Garabello and Santiago de Paoli.

Another participant in 2014’s Barrio Jóven, Pasto Galería (see p125) is proof of how the Patio can act as something of a launch pad: following two successful years in the Avenida Santa Fe institution César Abelenda’s gallery recently moved to a street level location close to the Museo Nacional de Arte Decorativo.

‘There’s effervescence when one starts out and then seriousness as things start to grow’, says Lahitte, who also has plans to graduate from the Patio in the near future. She has got serious about her gallery’s upcoming appearance at ArteBA: participating puts positive pressure on directors to ratchet up the professionalism of their proposal in time for the fair, and can mark a before and after for a gallery.

It’s only fitting that there should be a healthy turnover of artists and gallerists in a place as dynamic as the Patio, a space that is something of a work in progress itself. Those galleries that have established themselves and are now moving on are handing over the baton to new projects, such as Avalancha (Unit 15, www.avalancha.me), a gallery where new artists specialising in painting, printmaking, sculpture, photography and other media showcase their work. They too are hoping that a little bit of the Patio’s magic will rub off on them.

Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014 123

The scene

Art

A pulsing energy has always run through Buenos Aires’s art scene.

Artists tend to be driven by passion over pesos: many work on shoestring budgets, making do with the materials available and opening alternative artist-run spaces in private homes and abandoned warehouses. But better-off private venues are also generally vibrant and accessible, featuring work that crosses genre boundaries and blurs lines between the gallery and the street.

One of the city’s hottest underground spaces is the BSM Art Building in Once (Boulogne Sur Mer 345, 4865 9300), a former oxygen bottle factory transformed into a grungy, multistorey space with artist studios.

On the more conventional end of the contemporary art spectrum, the MALBA (Museo de Arte Latinoamericano de Buenos Aires, see right) features diverse temporary exhibitions as well as a permanent collection of Latin American art by the likes of Diego Rivera.

Major institutions Colección de Arte Amalia Lacroze de Fortabat This, the private treasure trove of the late Amalia Lacroze de Fortabat, once Argentina’s wealthiest woman, is housed in a stunning glass and steel airplane hangar-type edifice on Puerto Madero’s rapidly developing waterfront. The collection of both Argentinian and international works includes the psychologically complex paintings of Carlos Alonso and the highly versatile work of the painter of the people, Antonio Berni. Don’t miss the Dalí, Turner or Brueghel pieces, or Warhol’s silkscreen of Amalia Lacroze de Fortabat herself.

Olga Cossettini 141, Puerto Madero (4310 6600/www.coleccionfortabat.org. ar). Subte B, LN Alem/bus 74, 126, 129, 140, 180. Open noon-8pm Tue-Sun. Admission AR$35; AR$20 Wed. Map B5.

Faena Arts Centre The Faena Hotel Buenos Aires (see p152) recently added another landmark to its Puerto Madero empire, spending big bucks to glam up this contemporary art space inside a restored flour mill. It has all the luxury of the hotel, complete with majestic marble stairs and high ceilings that lend themselves to large-scale installations. Big names are brought in from abroad, such as British artist Anthony McCall, who in 2013 displayed his works ‘constructed by light’ referencing Jorge Luis Borges’s The Aleph.

Aimé Paine 1169, y Azucena Villaflor, Puerto Madero (4010 9233/www.faena. com). Bus 2, 64, 111, 129. Open noon-7pm Mon-Sat. Admission AR$40. Free Mon. Map B5. !Fundación Proa This institution provides you with a reason to go to La Boca that doesn’t involve paying to have your photo taken with a sleazy tango hustler. The phenomenal Proa is flourishing in its stunning waterfront building, just off the tourist hub of Caminito, and features industrial exhibition spaces, the city’s best art library and bookstore, and a third-floor gourmet café. With a gravitational pull strong enough to reel in international names (works by artists like Marcel Duchamp) as well as an aesthetic strongly linked to the social, Proa packs a full schedule, complete with related film cycles, lectures and theatrical productions.

Avenida Pedro de Mendoza 1929, entre Magallanes y Rocha, La Boca (4104 1000/www.proa.org). Bus 8, 20, 25, 29, 33, 46, 53, 64, 86, 152. Open

11am-7pm Tue-Sun. Admission AR$20. Map A1.

MACBA The slick, glass-fronted Museo de Arte Contemporáneo de Buenos Aires (MACBA) opened in late 2012 with an exhibition of abstract geometrical art plucked straight from the private collection of the museum’s Argentinian benefactor, Aldo Rubino. Situated next door to MAMbA (see below) and now hosting live music and children’s events, the four-storey space is an exciting new player in San Telmo’s burgeoning art district.

Avenida San Juan 328, entre Defensa y Balcarce, San Telmo (5299 2010/www. macba.com.ar). Bus 4, 8, 10, 17, 29, 93. Open noon-7pm Mon, Wed-Fri; 11am-7.30pm Sat, Sun. Admission AR$20; AR$15 Wed. Map A4. !MALBA With ambitious exhibitions and a manageable size, all signs point to futuristic MALBA as the best museum in the city: Frida Kahlo, Diego Rivera, Guillermo Kuitca, Grete Stern and friends fill the walls. Look out for the Intervención series of installations, in which the benches taper off to become larger-than-life spaghetti looping across the walls (an inspired use of gallery space on the part of Pablo Reinoso).

Upstairs, frequently updated exhibitions feature the best of contemporary and cutting-edge Argentinian art. There’s also an excellent café, well-stocked gift shop and cinema specialising in cult and arthouse retrospectives.

Avenida Figueroa Alcorta 3415, entre Salguero y San Martín de Tours, Palermo (4808 6500/www.malba.org. ar). Bus 37, 67. Open noon-8pm Mon, Thur-Sun; noon-9pm Wed. Admission AR$45; AR$23 Wed. Map F5.

MAMbA A key player on the BA art circuit, MAMbA – the Museo de Arte

Moderno de Buenos Aires – has some 7,000 works in its collection. The pieces span movements in Argentinian art from the 1920s to the present day, with notable works by Xul Solar, Marta Minujín and Antonio Berni.

Avenida San Juan 350, entre Defensa y Balcarce, San Telmo (4342 3001/www. museodeartemoderno.buenosaires.gov. ar). Bus 10, 29, 33, 64, 74, 126, 130.

Open 11am-7pm Tue-Fri; 11am-8pm Sat, Sun. Admission AR$10. Free Tue. Map A4.

Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes Offering an impressive view of the traditional side of art, the MNBA has 24 rooms, sculpture patios, an architecture display, studios, a library and an auditorium. The country’s biggest collection of 19th- and 20th-century Argentinian art is housed here, with pieces by masters such as Eduardo Sívori, Antonio Berni, Xul Solar and Guillermo Kuitca on display; and the international collection on the ground floor includes works by masters like El Greco, Rubens, Rembrandt and Goya.

Avenida del Libertador 1473, y Pueyrredón, Recoleta (5288 9914/ www.mnba.gob.ar). Bus 92, 93, 95, 102, 108, 110, 118, 124, 130. Open 12.30-8.30pm Tue-Fri; 9.30am-8.30pm Sat, Sun. Admission free. Map E5.

Palais de Glace French speakers won’t have to guess the original function of this elegant belle époque building; Palais de Glace, which opened its doors to skaters in 1910, means ‘Ice Palace’. Today, the palace is suitably grand for its diverse roster of large-scale paintings, photography, engravings, sculptures and video installations.

Posadas 1725, y Schiaffino, Recoleta (4804 1163/www.palaisdeglace.gob.ar).

Bus 17, 60, 67, 92, 110. Open noon-8pm Tue-Fri; 10am-8pm Sat, Sun. Admission free. Map E5.

Interrupciones (Luis Felipe Noé at Galeria Rubbers).

124 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014

Galleries Centre

CONTEMPORARY

Ignacio Liprandi Arte Contemporáneo Argentinian collector Ignacio Liprandi has his finger firmly on the pulse of cutting-edge local and Latin American conceptual art, plucking stars from the likes of London’s Tate Modern and New York’s MoMA to show in his third-floor gallery with head-on views of the grandiose Congreso building.

Rotating exhibitions have a multimedia bent, showcasing some of the most talked-about – and controversial – artists on the circuit.

Level 3, left, Avenida de Mayo 1480, entre Uruguay y Paraná, Congreso (4381 0679/www.ignacioliprandi.com).

Subte A, Sáenz Peña/bus 8, 39, 60, 64, 67, 86, 102, 129. Open 11am-9.30pm Mon-Fri; by appt Sat. Map C4.

CLASSIC

!Ruth Benzacar BA’s first stop for collectors is porteño art doña Orly Benzacar’s downtown basement space, which is among the most highly regarded galleries in town.

She has well and truly conquered Buenos Aires with her healthy catalogue of fresh-faced art aces and an afternoon spent trawling around the calle Florida space is a sure-fire way to take in some of the top work being produced in the city.

Florida 1000, y Marcelo T de Alvear, Retiro (4313 8480/www.ruthbenzacar. com). Subte C, San Martín/bus 10, 17, 152. Open 11.30am-8pm Mon-Fri. Map D5.

La Boca CONTEMPORARY

POPA A hedonistic spirit pervades this house just off the Caminito tourist strip, where director Marcelo Bosco likes his art out, loud and proud.

Mixed media works run the gamut from the sublime to the shocking, from sculptures exploring S&M to photography bordering on porn.

Exhibition openings here are schmoozy affairs.

Recoleta and Barrio Norte CONTEMPORARY

!Daniel Abate Infamous for keeping even the most exclusive collectors on their toes, this surprisingly compact gallery, situated in a house along a lovely back lane in Recoleta, is a prime destination on show opening night. Keep your eyes peeled for hot young artist types, porteño socialites, journalists and the dashing, dickie-bowed Daniel Abate himself. Abate has, among his many other feats, taught BA that contemporary art can be red-carpet glam, so dress to impress or else stay home (we speak from experience).

Pasaje Bollini 2170, entre French y Peña, Recoleta (4804 8247/www. abategaleria.com). Bus 10, 37.

Open noon-5pm Mon-Fri, call in advance. Map F4.

Art

Zavaleta Lab The creative laboratory of local art impresario Hernán Zavaleta effectively bridges the gap between the area’s contemporary hotspots and their downright dusty older counterparts.

Zavaleta’s eye for innovation ensures a consistent turnout of solid exhibitions by both up-and-comers and local art darlings. Paintings, which tend to favour clean lines and solid colours, gleam from the walls of the broad white gallery space.

Office 12, 2nd floor, Defensa 269, entre Alsina y Moreno, Monserrat (4589 5314/www.zavaletalab.com). Subte A, Plaza de Mayo/bus 10, 17, 86, 195.

Open 11am-7pm Mon-Fri; by appt Sat. Map B4.

Lamadrid 882, entre Garibaldi y Carlos F Melo (4302 7244/www.galeriapopa. com.ar). Bus 64. Open 3-8pm Thur, Fri; 2-10pm Sat; or by appt. Map A1.

Other location 2nd floor, El Salvador 5090, Palermo, 4-8pm Tue-Sat.

Mite One of a handful of galleries located inside the trendy Galería Patio del Liceo (see p123), Mite features a rotating cast of a dozen contemporary artists, who create fresh work such as paint and Sharpie-doctored newsprint and photographic stills inspired by old black-and-white films. After you’ve had your inspiration fix, seize the chance to drop by art bookstore Purr Libros on the ground floor.

Unit 30, 1st floor, Avenida Santa Fe 2729, entre Laprida y Anchorena, Barrio Norte (4822 9433/www. mitegaleria.com.ar). Subte D, Agüero/ bus 12, 39, 64, 95, 118, 152. Open 2-8pm Tue-Fri; by appt Sat. Map E4.

Nora Fisch Leave reality at the door and enter a world that resembles a David Lynch set. New York-educated owner Nora Fisch prefers to deck out her space with mixed media pieces that lie at the extreme end of the conceptual scale. Every torn bit of paper, carefully mounted piece of cardboard, or arrangement of lines is meant to say something, and it does so elegantly.

Ground floor, Güemes 2967, entre Gallo y Agüero, Barrio Norte (4824 5743/www.norafisch.com). Subte D, Agüero/bus 64, 68. Open 3-7pm Tue-Fri. Map F4.

Other location Office 2, 2nd floor, Ayacucho 1741 (mobile 15 6235 2030), by appt.

Pasto Galería Orginally set inside the hip Galería Patio del Liceo (see p123), this gallery and its dynamic young crew has a new space to present a roster of emerging artists working mostly in small-format (and accessibly priced) painting, Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014 125

drawing, installation and photography.

Friendly director César Abelenda will gladly help guide you through the underground arts scene. The new space is a collaboration between Pasto and Luciana Massarino’s Studio 448.

Pereyra Lucena 2589, y Pagano, Recoleta (4823 2552/www.pastogaleria. com.ar). Bus 37, 59, 60, 95, 110.

Open 3-8pm Tue-Sat. Map F5. !Praxis With a sister gallery in New York, Praxis has serious international reach and today is one of the driving forces in promoting contemporary Argentinian art abroad. Major collectors come to the four-storey Recoleta gallery to view the latest works by emerging and established artists, as well as to trawl through the extensive stock, which features abstract designs with high conceptual backing by artists like Pablo Lozano and Garcia Mar. Arenales 1311, entre Uruguay y Talcahuano, Recoleta (4812 6254/www. praxis-art.com). Bus 10, 108, 111, 152. Open 10.30am-7.30pm Mon-Fri; 10.30am-2pm Sat. Map D5.

Art

CLASSIC

Galería Isabel Anchorena For the more traditional side of BA’s art output, head over to Isabel Anchorena, a superbly curated Recoleta gallery that displays the two- and three-dimensional works of over 30 solid, schooled artists.

Having made strong showings at past events like the São Paulo Art Biennial and ArteBA fairs, the gallery has recently been focusing on exhibiting here at its home base.

Libertad 1389, entre Juncal y Arroyo, Recoleta (4811 5335/www. galeriaisabelanchorena.com). Bus 39, 152. Open 11am-8pm Mon-Fri; 11am-3pm Sat. Map D5.

music and hipsters a regular feature of inauguration parties.

Humboldt 1510, entre Cabrera y Gorriti (4899 0171/www.elsidelrio.com. ar). Bus 93, 108, 111, 140, 151, 168.

Open 1.30-8pm Tue-Fri; 10.30am-3pm Sat. Map H2.

Gachi Prieto Boundary-busting director Gachi Prieto continues to keep the art scene guessing with her roll call of 24 (mostly local) artists. With nine exhibitions a year self-consciously setting a course for contemporary Latin American art, expect to find everything from monochrome video projections, to artisanal collections of objects and photo manipulations.

Uriarte 1976, entre Soler y Nicaragua (4774 6961/www.gachiprietogallery. com). Subte D, Plaza Italia/bus 34, 39, 55, 111, 166. Open 1-8pm Tue-Fri; noon-6pm Sat. Map G3.

Galería Foster Catena This hip first-floor space sits on a much-transited Palermo block and is committed to promoting emerging contemporary artists, as well as established snappers such as Dino Bruzzone and Marcelo Grosman.

Try to get to an opening here: the mix of edgy images, a see-and-be-seen crowd and access to high-end wine means you won’t regret it.

1st floor, Honduras 4882, entre Armenia y Gurruchaga (4833 9499/ www.fostercatena.com). Bus 39, 55, 110, 140, 141, 151, 168. Open 1-7.30pm Tue-Sat. Map G2.

Holbox One of the few lens-centric spaces in the city, this gallery, presided over by photographer Julia Ramos, has more than a dozen talented snappers on its books. If you’re after something to

Galería Rubbers As you might imagine from the gallery that hosted Andy Warhol’s first Latin American exhibition in 1966, only the most upmarket names in art make it into Rubbers, which is more of an art maestro’s hall of fame than your average gallery. The venue displays a diverse range of works by household names like Antonio Seguí and Xul Solar, the quirky artist-inventor whose work gave the gallery clout during its infancy in the late 1950s. For an insight into Solar’s fascinating world, check out the Museo Xul Solar (see p122).

Avenida Alvear 1595, y Montevideo, Recoleta (4816 1864/www.rubbers.com. ar). Bus 17, 67, 110. Open 11am-8pm Mon-Fri; 11am-1pm Sat. Map D5.

Palermo CONTEMPORARY

Elsi del Río This spirited contemporary space is smack bang in the nucleus of Palermo’s trendy art scene. The cast of characters under director Fernando Entin is influenced by everything from graffiti to Japanese art. Exhibitions change every six weeks, with live 126 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014

stash in your suitcase, it also sells framed works in small formats.

Costa Rica 4737, entre Borges y Gurruchaga (4833 2481/www. holboxphotogallery.com). Bus 39, 110, 111, 114. Open by appt. Map G2.

Hollywood in Cambodia Graffiti: you’ve seen the work plastered all over the city and may even recognise some of the styles. Now that you can put names to images at this gallery, run by a ‘collective of collectives’ comprising some of the big names in Buenos Aires graffiti, like Pum Pum and Run Don’t Walk.

Entering the gallery requires passing through the equally festooned Post Street bar downstairs: grab a bottle and a couple of glasses and head up to the heavily tagged terrace. For more fun, learn the tricks of the trade in a stencil workshop with local artists or hop on a tour with Graffitimundo (see right).

1st floor, Thames 1885, entre Costa Rica y Nicaragua (www. hollywoodincambodia.com.ar). Bus 29, 34, 39, 55, 60, 93, 108, 140, 151.

Open 5-9pm Tue-Sun. Map G3.

Mar Dulce Expect to see simple, colourful paintings, drawings, collages, giclée prints, embroidery and photographs by multi-talented artists, like illustrator and pop singer Isol. Additional exhibitions at this gallery such as ‘+Collective’ showed work from established artists like Daniel Santoro as well as emerging talents. More like a stylish friend’s apartment than your typical art gallery, the atmosphere is warm and intimate.

Uriarte 1490, entre Gorriti y Cabrera (mobile 15 5319 3597/www. galeriamardulce.blogspot.com). Bus 39, 55, 93, 108, 168. Open 3-8pm Tue-Sat. Map G2.

Fundación Proa in La Boca.

Thames This luminous space has more than 30, mostly local and mostly female, artists on its books. The large canvasses stretching down the corridor tend to feature the application of colour in bright, bold patches and jagged streaks.

Thames 1776, entre Costa Rica y El Salvador (4832 1968/www. galeriathames.com.ar). Bus 34. Open 2-8pm Tue-Fri; 3-7pm Sat. Map G3.

CLASSIC

Daniel Maman Fine Arts New work rubs shoulders with pieces by renowned Argentinian stars including Xul Solar and Antonio Berni in this gallery, conveniently situated among the major art museums of Palermo Chico. Get dolled up and drop by this glitzy show space on an exhibition’s opening night, when all the big names in the art world come out to see fresh talent.

Avenida del Libertador 2475, entre Bulnes y Ruggieri (4804 3700/www. danielmaman.com). Bus 10, 59, 60.

Open 11am-8pm Mon-Fri; 11am-3pm Sat. Map F5.

Villa Crespo CONTEMPORARY

!Arte x Arte With 1200 sq m at its disposal, Arte x Arte lays claim to being BA’s largest art gallery. Its exhibitions, of which there are half a dozen a year, are dedicated solely to photography, video and new media, and attract big names from both home and abroad.

Lavalleja 1062, entre Lerma y Argañarás (4772 6754/www. galeriaartexarte.com). Bus 15, 110.

Open 1.30-8pm Tue-Fri; 11.30am-3pm Sat. Map F2.

Art tours Artists’ Atelier Tours

These tours around artists’ studios are a great way to get under the skin of BA’s art scene and see process as well as product. The fee is AR$700, and there’s a 2-for-1 offer for Time Out readers. The owner also rents out an artisticallyrestored Palermo house. www.arttour.com.ar

Art Connoisseurs

Intimate group tours and private viewings of galleries and artists’ studios. Lunch is included in the price. From AR$200. www.artconnoisseursba.com

Graffitimundo

At Graffitimundo, hands-down experts in all things street art, friendly bilingual guides steer you around the colourfully sprayed streets of BA on a three-hour tour, which costs from US$25 per person. On Sundays there are graffiti tours on two wheels with Biking Buenos Aires (www. bikingbuenosaires.com) for US$45 www.graffitimundo.com

IMAGE COURTESY OF PAMPA FILMS

Film & Media

Juan Pablo Buscarini on the set of The Games Maker with Joseph Fiennes and David Mazouz.

Argentinian film gets back in the game Lauren Pringle talks to Juan Pablo Buscarini, the Argentinian filmmaker behind this winter’s star-studded The Games Maker.

A

rgentinian film was put on the international stage when El secreto de sus ojos (The Secret in Their Eyes) snapped up an Oscar for Best Foreign Language Film in 2010. Apart from this golden moment, many Argentinian films find it difficult to compete on an international market. This winter, however, Pampa Films and filmmaker Juan Pablo Buscarini will release one of Argentinian cinema’s most ambitious projects, El inventor de juegos (The Games Maker). Juan Pablo is the co-founder of Pampa and Patagonik Films, and was the producer of Goya Award-winning Un cuento chino (Chinese Take-Away) and Peter Capussotto 3D, the first Argentinian film to be made in 3D. He also directed the 3D animated children’s film Ratón Pérez (The Hairy Tooth Fairy).

The Games Maker features a star-studded cast with Joseph Fiennes (yes, the hottie from Shakespeare in Love), David Mazouz (star of TV series Touch alongside

contacts, a well-known casting director told me it was a fantastic script but it needed some tweaking if we wanted to get big English actors for the film. I soon began working with an English script writer. What I found most difficult was the pre-production, directing in English and filming in 3D. Those were my biggest fears, but we pushed forward and Can you describe the everything seemed to process behind The run smoothly.

Games Maker?

It’s showtime!

The whole project How did you find all the To see what films are was a very long showing at Buenos actors and what was it process. The novel is Aires’s cinemas, check like working with such

by Pablo de Santis, out guia.lanacion. big names? an Argentinian writer com.ar/cine.

We were lucky to have with whom I have a good a great casting director relationship, and I loved the and with the completed script, story so I adapted it into a we were able to get some great screenplay. What I realised during names like Joseph Fiennes, David the whole process was how I Mazouz and Tom Cavanagh. On set wanted the film to transcend many was a wonderful environment, and I audiences so I decided to do the was so impressed with David film with an English cast.

Mazouz. In the film we worked a lot After sending the script to some with children and the actors union Keifer Sutherland) and Tom Cavanagh (from the TV show Scrubs) taking on the lead roles in the film.

This is, as Juan Pablo puts it, ‘a kids’ action family adventure film’ that was filmed with an English cast in Argentina. It is a co-Argentinian, Italian and Canadian production which will be released in July 2014.

TOP TIP!

in Argentina is very strong so we were strict with the times and rules, but David was on set 56 of the 57 shooting days. He is not only such a talented actor, but also a real professional. When you are working with such good actors, it gives you great confidence that your project will have the strength that you had imagined.

Argentina is a big player in Spanishlanguage cinema. Is there a style that defines Argentinian cinema and what do you think the industry has to work on?

I am a strong supporter of Argentinian film, but I think we have work to do. At the moment I don’t feel completely satisfied with the way things are going. We had a good run during the golden years of 2000-2005 when some incredible films were made, such as Fabián Bielinksy’s Nueve reinas (Nine Queens). But I feel like the past five years have been difficult. Well, Campanella won the Oscar for El secreto de sus ojos, but there is a strange methodology regarding the making of films in Argentina. Last year 120 films were made and very few people saw 100 of those films.

I think if the state was to fund only 10 films a year rather than 100, we could really make some good films.

There needs to be a balance of course, because I think it’s great to give new directors a chance, otherwise we won’t have any Pablo Traperos in the future. But there needs to be more of an understanding as to where and what the money is being spent on.

Argentina is a popular film destination for many foreign projects.

While The Games Maker is set in England, it was filmed in Buenos Aires. What makes Argentina a popular film location?

Buenos Aires is a popular destination because the city has areas that look like Paris, Italy and Spain. We are a real mix here, and that shows in the architecture, the food, the people; everything about the culture is a Latin-European fusion. There was a big wave of English immigration here too with the railways, so it was a perfect setting for The Games Maker, where we wanted to capture a somewhat English style. Argentina is also huge – the country has it all.

If you want mountains, jungle, fields, ocean views or deserts you can find them, and I think that’s what makes it such an attractive location for filmmakers.

What are the future plans for Pampa Films and for you personally?

Pampa is going to do a biopic on Pope Francis. The director is Alejandro Agresti, who did The Lake House. As for my future projects, I am looking into working on a film with Ricardo Darín and Sebastián Borensztein, the director of Un cuento chino.

Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014 127

The basics

Buenos Aires is a bustling city of bookworms and cine buffs. Whether you chose to wander down crowded Avenida Corrientes or pop into the Espacio INCAA KM 0 – Gaumont Rivadavia (see right) to catch an independent Argie flick, this city has got it all up for grabs.

Literary fixes are available all over the city, and many bookshops, including the magnificent Ateneo Grand Splendid (see p98), also offer caffeine hits. There are aso an abundance of arthouse microcines to keep you entertained. Film is a big industry in the city and is a popular hotspot so keep your eyes peeled for the occasional celeb around town.

Film & Media

Cinemas

New releases, from blockbusters to arthouse flicks, are shown widely. The MALBA (see p124) hosts excellent cinema events: new indie releases, retrospectives and lectures. The Alianza Francesa, British Arts Centre, Centro Cultural de la Cooperación, Centro Cultural Matienzo and Centro Cultural Ricardo Rojas (see p122) all regularly screen films cheaply or free of charge, while Teatro Nacional Cervantes (see p140) shows classic Argentinian films, free on Wednesdays and Thursdays at 5pm.

INFO, TIMINGS AND TICKETS Children’s films are usually dubbed, but original versions are shown as well at selected times and venues. Some cinemas offer late-night shows (trasnoches), and cheaper tickets can be had from Mondays to Wednesdays and

5 Must-see Argentinian Films Nueve reinas (Fabián Bielinsky, 2000) This story about a pair of con artists frequently tops the list of best Argentinian flicks.

El secreto de sus ojos (Juan José Campanella, 2009) This masterpeice follows a novelist retracing an unsolved murder case.

El hombre de al lado (Mariano Cohn and Gastón Duprat, 2009) A clever black comedy that won a cinematography award at Sundance.

at daytime showings. For schedules and information regarding upcoming releases, check Cines Argentinos (www. cinesargentinos.com.ar).

CONGRESO & TRIBUNALES

Arteplex Screens local films and some of Hollywood’s more inventive offerings.

Avenida Roque Sáenz Peña 1150/56, entre Libertad y Cerrito (4382 7934/ www.cinesarteplex.com). Subte D, 9 de Julio/bus 10, 17, 140. Open from 1pm daily. Tickets AR$26-$38. No credit cards. Map D4.

Espacio INCAA KM 0 – Gaumont Rivadavia This cinema is supported by the local film institute, and screens independent Argentinian releases.

Avenida Rivadavia 1635, y Montevideo (4382 0003/www.espacios.incaa.gov.ar).

Subte A, Congreso/bus 151. Open 12.30pm-12.30am daily. Tickets AR$8.

No credit cards. Map D4.

Lorca An excellent option for contemporary indie flicks, Lorca also pays homage to the great films of the golden era: Bergman and Fellini retrospectives are permanent fixtures.

Avenida Corrientes 1428, y Uruguay (4371 5017). Subte B, Uruguay/bus 24, 26, 102. Open 1.30-11pm daily.

Tickets Mon-Wed AR$30; Thur-Sun AR$40. No credit cards. Map D4.

SAN TELMO

Buenos Aires Mon Amour This bijou 38-seater shows independent films and is run as a non-profit venture by a pair of local film-lovers.

Reserve online, location given on booking (mobile 15 4413 6283/ www.cineclubmonamour.com). Bus 10, 17, 29, 152. Open from 7pm Fri-Sun. Tickets Mon-Wed AR$25; Thur-Sun AR$35. No credit cards. Map B4.

Other location Diagonal Norte 1150.

PUERTO MADERO

Cinemark This modern complex in an upmarket barrio shows the latest Hollywood and Latin American releases.

Alicia Moreau de Justo 1920, y Avenida San Juan (0800 222 2463/www. cinemark.com.ar). Bus 4, 62, 64. Open from noon daily. Tickets AR$40-$60.

Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map B5.

Other locations Beruti 3399, Palermo; Avenida La Plata 96, Caballito.

RECOLETA

La historia oficial (Luis Puenzo, 1985) Norma Aleandro won Best Actress at Cannes for her role in this tale of the 1976-83 dictatorship.

Atlas Patio Bullrich Stop in at the city’s most exclusive shopping centre to take in a local film or a US blockbuster.

Avenida del Libertador 750, entre Montevideo y Libertad (www.atlascines. com.ar). Bus 60, 61, 62, 67. Open from noon daily. Tickets AR$45.

Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map E6.

El hijo de la novia (Juan José Campanella, 2001) The touching and funny story of a simple man having a mid-life crisis.

Village Recoleta This cinema in Recoleta Mall (see p98) boasts ten screens which pump out the latest blockbuster flicks.

128 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014

Vicente López 2050, entre Uriburu y Junín (0810 810 2463/www.village cines.com). Bus 10, 108. Open from 11am daily. Tickets AR$50-$78.

Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map E5.

Other location Avenida Rivadavia 5071, Caballito.

ABASTO

Hoyts Abasto Buenos Aires This massive 12-theatre shopping centre cinema screens new releases.

Abasto shopping centre, Avenida Corrientes 3247, y Anchorena (5238 2700/www.hoyts.com.ar). Subte B, Carlos Gardel/bus 24, 26, 124. Open from 10am daily. Tickets AR$62-3D $70. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map E3.

ALMAGRO

Cine Club Eco Find Bergman retrospectives here, plus more obscure international films. Entry includes a post-screening discussion.

2nd floor, Avenida Corrientes 4940, entre Lavalleja y Julián Álvarez (mobile 15 6360 7291). Subte B, Malabia/bus 24, 36, 55. Open 8pm Sat; 7pm Sun (reservations essential). Tickets AR$50 suggested donation. No credit cards. Map F1.

Film studies

Buenos Aires is crammed with film and media courses that turn out hundreds of graduates annually for the city’s thriving film and advertising industry – plus a few very knowledgeable bartenders. The Escuela Nacional de Experimentación y Realización Cinematográfica (Moreno 1199, 4383 2622, www.enerc.gov.ar) in Monserrat is run by INCAA, the national film board, and its programme is among the most selective, with students required to pass a difficult course in order to enter. The prestigious three-year image and sound design course at the Universidad de Buenos Aires (Ciudad Universitaria, 4789 6200, www. fadu.uba.ar) is famed for its emphasis on putting theory into practice. One of the better and more expensive private institutes in BA is San Telmo’s Universidad del Cine (Pasaje Giuffra 330, 4300 1413, www.ucine.edu. ar), which also organises all manner of screenings, seminars and workshops.

Radio

Tune in to local radio for informative talk shows or check out the indie sounds on Urbana (89.5 FM), Rock & Pop (95.9 FM), Kabul (107.9 FM) and community station Radio La Tribu (88.7 FM). Listen to contemporary rock nacional on Mega (98.3 FM), and tango on statesponsored La 2x4 (92.7 FM) or hip new Malena (89.1 FM), which plays modern interpretations of the classics.

La Mañana con Víctor Hugo (Radio Continental, 590 AM) is hosted daily (9am-1pm) by ex-footballcommentator Víctor Hugo Morales, and serves current affairs and football chat with a pro-government spin. BA

Cast (www.bacast.com) is a weekly podcast in ‘Spanglish’ aimed squarely at the expat community. Vorterix Rock (103.1 FM) was launched in 2013 by TV and Radio personality Mario Pergolini and streams music from many of the bands that play at Teatro Vorterix (see p138).

TV

While cable TV is popular and offers Hollywood films, sports and subtitled US sitcoms, if your language skills are up to it, there are some Spanish-language shows worth tuning in to on public television. Cable channel Canal á is a useful way into the local arts scene; and sensationalist news channel Crónica TV has to be seen to be (dis)believed.

The web

The city’s official tourism site, www. bue.gob.ar, includes an interactive map and a guide to what’s on around town. The government’s Festivales de Buenos Aires (www.festivales. gob.ar) is another good way to stay in the loop about the city’s non-stop festivities. Wander Argentina (www. wander-argentina.com) has detailed coverage of the city’s barrios and attractions. Argentine Soccer (www. argentinesoccer.com) keeps score on the national obsession.

What’s Up Buenos Aires (www. whatsupbuenosaires.com) offers English- and Spanish-language features, news and interviews, while Spanish-language magazine Wipe (www.wipe.com.ar) has daily events listings on its website. Glamout (www. glamout.com) has resources on shops, events and nights out, and Vuenoz Aires (www.vuenosairez.com) is a solid resource for the latest cultural events.

For a foodie blog that sizzles with attitude, check out Pick Up the Fork (www.pickupthefork.com). In Spanish, Planeta Joy (www.planetajoy.com) has its finger on the pulse of the gastronomic scene.

Read on

English publications The Argentina Independent This website includes articles on cultural, economic, political, social and environmental issues. www.argentinaindependent.com The Bubble A new website that offers Englishlanguage articles on Argentinian news and culture with a critical bite. bubblear.com Buenos Aires Herald This long-running newspaper is sold at kiosks throughout the city. www.buenosairesherald.com Buenos Aires Review A digital, bilingual English-Spanish literary magazine. www.buenosairesreview.org

LUIS DURAN

Fitness & Sports

Caballos a la Par.

Taking the Reins Emily Jensen saddles up to check out some of Argentina’s mane attractions.

T

he first animal that comes to mind when thinking of Argentina is likely to be the illustrious cow.

In fact, if the only Spanish words you knew upon arriving in Ezeiza were translations of your favourite cuts of steak, you’d probably fare just fine (at the very least you’d eat well). A close second for Argentina’s most iconic animal is another beast of burden, albeit one you won’t encounter on a restaurant menu: the horse.

Riding may be the furthest thing from your mind as you try to navigate the herds of humans on the streets of Buenos Aires, but step just outside the city boundaries and you’ll find horses are integral to the provincial landscape. Countless estancias litter the countryside, ranging from small, family run ranches to larger ones open to the public for overnight stays, the latter often offering polo or riding lessons (see p166 Estancias).

Argentinian riders use a particular style that is neither English saddle nor Western, and allows for freedom and fluidity on the horse. Their unique riding prowess has enabled the country to produce some of the best polo players in the world, and has helped maintain the gaucho (the Argentinian cowboy) as a symbol of Argentinian nationalism. For a glimpse of gaucho life without leaving the city (mixed with a bit of pageantry) head to the annual Exposición Rural (see p12) or, to experience it firsthand, try one of the many riding excursions outside the city.

Gauchos aside, many of Argentina’s top riders can be found on the polo field. Polo is one of the

country’s most popular sports, and if you’ve never played the game there’s no better way to get your feet wet than with a full- or half-day excursion with Argentina Polo Day (see p130). At the estancia located 40 minutes outside Buenos Aires, participants of all levels can learn to play polo and see a game, but those who don’t feel as comfortable on a horse will be equally well looked after. The package includes a delicious asado lunch, and there are plenty of empanadas and malbec on hand to keep everyone happy. If you fall in love with the sport, enroll in the polo school and you may never want to leave Argentina.

To refine your inner jinete (rider), book a half-day lesson with Caballos a la Par (4384 7013, www.caballosalapar.com). Located 30 minutes south of the city in a gorgeous forest reserve, Caballos a la Par offers one-on-one riding lessons for novices and experts, with transfers to and from the city. The friendly owners, Argentinian and Dutch duo Adrian and Miriam, maintain a stable of around a dozen horses to suit every ability level. ‘A la Par’ refers to the side-by-side teaching style; student and teacher ride alongside each other, allowing for plenty of feedback.

Before mounting your caballo, classes start off with another national pastime: maté, a tea-like infusion sipped through a metal straw from a gourd. The kick of energy certainly doesn’t hurt, but the ritual provides more than just a caffeine boost.

Adrian and Miriam use the time spent passing around the maté to assess a rider’s personality, in order to decide

which horse will be the best fit. If you haven’t quite warmed to the bitter drink, now is a good time to acquire a taste for it. ‘The people who drink maté usually fare better on the horse,’ Adrian claims.

The setting may be a serene break from the chaos of the city, but classes are no walk in the park. Individualised lessons let riders move at their own pace, but Caballos a la Par seeks to challenge every level. The course snakes through the woods, letting riders experience a variety of terrains and obstacles from crossing a river to galloping through an open field. Even if you’ve never ridden in your life, you may end up feeling like a pro.

Afterwards, the class winds down with facturas and coffee. But if you’d prefer your riding experience to get straight to the R&R, Estancia Los Dos Hermanos (see p131) offers lessons and tranquil tours of the countryside on horseback, as well as an asado lunch and cabins to rent for the night.

Horse enthusiasts who prefer the city life will be happy to enroll in Club Alemán de Equitación (see p131).

Located conveniently in Palermo, the club offers lessons in riding and showjumping. Nearby is the Campo Argentino de Polo (see p130), where you can catch a polo game from September to December. And since Buenos Aires is one of the few places where a fully equipped racecourse can be found smack bang in the middle of the city, it only makes sense to visit the Hipódromo Argentino de Palermo (see p130) when pesos are burning a hole in your pocket. Thousands of people pack the stadium every November for the Gran Premio Nacional, but smaller races are held year-round.

Watching the pros makes riding look easy, but if you sign up for a class in or out of the city, don’t be too eager to book a walking tour for the following day: your muscles may need time to recover.

The essentials

With captain/demigod Lionel Messi in astonishing form, a dream first round group and the Pope on their side, expectations have never been higher for Argentina to end the 28-year wait for victory at this year’s World Cup. Argentina boasts of having the best football fans in the world, so from the moment la selección kicks off in June, expect the city to be fully loca. If you’re lucky enough to be here during the tournament, the local antics will be impossible to miss as celebrations (and commiserations) spill out of the bars and into the streets, so don your sky blue shirt and prepare your vocal cords for some serious shouting.

While football may be number one, Argentina has produced a fair share of world-beaters in other disciplines. ‘La Maradona del hockey’ Luciana Aymar continues to be recognized as the best field hockey player in the world, and La Dolfina’s captain, Adolfo Cambiaso, remains Argentina’s polo superstar, however a wrist injury has kept tennis luminary Juan Martín del Potro out this season. NBA fans should keep an eye on Indiana Pacers star, Luis Scola, as the Argentina national team heads to the Basketball World Cup in August. Rugby team Los Pumas will be hoping to build on a disappointing 2013 during the rugby season which runs from April to September.

Spectator sports BOXING

Boxing’s glory days peaked in the mid 1980s, but the sport still draws crowds to Luna Park (see p137), BA’s answer to Madison Square Garden, where the red carpet is rolled out every month or so for the ritual of the Saturday night fight. Smaller matches are sometimes held at the Federación Argentina de Box (Castro Barros 75, y Rivadavia, 4981 8615, www.fabox.com.ar) in Almagro.

FOOTBALL

Today, more than half of the 20 first division teams are located in and around BA. The league is split into two seasons: inicial (opening) from August to December and final (closing) from February to July. Football here tends to be spirited, highly competitive and a source of national pride. The best-known team is Club Atlético Boca Juniors, which plays at the Estadio Alberto J Armando in La Boca, more commonly known as ‘La Bombonera’ – the chocolate box. The so-called superclásico fixtures between Boca Juniors and arch-rivals Club Atlético River Plate are thought by some to be the greatest ‘derbies’ in the world. Other well-known teams include Club Atlético Independiente, Racing Club and San Lorenzo de Almagro. For Boca Juniors matches, be prepared to pay much higher rates than for tickets for other teams.

Tickets are not sold at the Bombonera

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Fitness & Sports

stadium, and those sold by touts in the surrounding streets and parks are usually fakes – you’ve been warned!

Your only viable option for getting to a Boca game, unless you happen to be friends with a member, is to book through agencies like Tangol (4363 6000, www.tangol.com). Tour prices start from AR$690 for a ticket in the popular area (where bags of wee, among other things, have been known to fly), and include transport to and from the game. For tickets in the platea (more comfortable, better positioned seats) and for big matches against Boca’s main rivals, the asking price can start from AR$2500.

Vamos a la Cancha (mobile 15 6729 7183, www.facebook.com/ vamosalacancha.todos) also takes small groups by minibus to Boca and River matches, sitting in either the popular or platea areas (tickets AR$850-$1200).

For any team other than Boca Juniors, tickets are best bought from the club stores. The atmosphere can be just as electric at matches at the other big clubs or at the smaller teams around the city. Standard prices range from AR$50 to AR$100 for tickets in the rowdy popular area rising to AR$170-$300 for platea seats.

Football De Tours (www. argentinafootballworld.com, diskosis@gmail.com), run by expat football journalists, offers personalised tours to football matches, with the exception of home Boca games. The guides take fans to matches on public transport rather than charter buses, which means the tours work out to be slightly cheaper than those offered by most of the competition (US$100).

Don’t take valuables to any match, and keep your wits about you for occasional instances of violence, which are mostly restricted to the popular areas.

Estadio Alberto J Armando hosts races on Wednesdays and at (La Bombonera) weekends, with entry at AR$6. Turf’s Watching a game here is a unique most important venue, Hipódromo experience: come kick-off, a cacophony Argentino de Palermo (Avenida del of fireworks and abuse greets players Libertador 4101, 4778 2800, www. and refs, and even if you’re not a fully palermo.com.ar) in Palermo hosts fledged footie fan, it’s hard not to be year-round meets on Mondays and moved by the spectacle. The platea alternating Fridays, Saturdays and baja in the stands area is your Sundays. Entrance is free. Betting is on recommended vantage point. Popular the tote system, and no alcohol can be tickets will put you in with the purchased at the track. hardcore fans: in this case, not a POLO particularly safe place to be. Neither is the area around the stadium, so leave Polo is played in the spring in BA, with valuables at home and avoid walking the season starting in September and around the area unnecessarily. running through to November Brandsen 805, y la Vía, La and December when the Boca (4309 4700/www. venerable Argentinian bocajuniors.com.ar). Bus Open is played at the For a scenic jog, take 10, 29, 53, 64. Map B1.

Campo Argentino de your trainers to the Polo de Palermo Palermo Rosedal (see Estadio Monumental (Avenida del Libertador p118), Puerto Madero or 4300, 4777 6444, www.

Home to Club Atlético the Reserva Ecológica River Plate, the aapolo.com). Try (see p119).

Monumental is the Ticketek for tickets. For largest stadium in the the rest of the year, the country and, thanks to its grounds remain relatively quiet, location in the upper-class barrio of though chukkas are played elsewhere Núñez, probably one of the safest. It’s in other seasons, with the exception of also the only all-seater stadium in BA winter. If you want to try your hand at that comes close to meeting FIFA polo in a peaceful setting away from standards. River Plate play at home the city, you can’t go wrong with Polo every other weekend during the Elite (www.poloelite.com), which football season, and major concerts are offers polo lessons year-round at a held here all year. Guided tours of the tranquil estancia outside the capital. museum are available from 10am to All levels are catered to, and the 5pm daily at a cost of AR$80. company can also organise for polo Avenida Figueroa Alcorta 7597, y players to accompany you as guides to Udaondo, Núñez (4789 1156/www. polo tournaments in Buenos Aires. cariverplate.com.ar). Bus 12, 29, 130.

Transfers to and from the city are included in the price; private lessons, HORSE-RACING group classes and full- and half-day The year’s most important races fall in excursions are available, with a November and December, but you can half-day excursion and a group class catch smaller meets all year round. The starting at US$110. For polo beginners only grass track in Argentina, Zona and enthusiasts, trek 45 minutes out of Norte’s Hipódromo de San Isidro the city to Pilar to Argentina Polo (Avenida Márquez 504, 4743 4011, Day (www.argentinapoloday.com.ar). www.hipodromosanisidro.com.ar) The price of US$175 includes transfer

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to and from the estancia, a steady supply of wine and home-made empanadas, an asado and a polo match and lesson. Even if you’ve never been on a horse before, it’s a good introduction to the sport of kings.

RUGBY

Unfortunately, 2013 was another disastrous year for Argentina’s national team, finishing at the bottom of the Rugby Championship table for the second year in a row. However, a new coach, Daniel Hourcade, and a recent victory against Italy suggest things are looking up in anticipation of the 2015 World Cup. On the local scene, the Argentinian rugby season runs from March to November and is usually dominated by Hindú Club (Ruta 202 y Avenida Del Golf, 4741 6150, www.hinduclub.com. ar) and San Isidro Club (SIC) (Blanco Encalada 404, 4766 2030, www. sanisidroclub.com.ar), although 2013 saw an upset with victory for Club Universitario de Buenos Aires (CUBA) (Avenida Perón y Pasaje Juan Cruz Migliore, 4660 0655, www.cuba. org.ar) – their first in over 40 years.

TENNIS

The majority of tennis courts in Argentina are clay, which explains why Argentinian players generally favour that type of surface. If you happen to be in town when there’s a professional tournament on, it’s well worth checking out the unique atmosphere of an Argentinian match. Crowds bring football-style chanting and passion which, though they may annoy international umpires to no end, make for a fun spectacle. The biggest tournament held in Argentina is the Abierto de Tenis de Buenos Aires or Copa Claro (www.copaclaro.com), which takes place at the Buenos Aires Lawn Tennis Club (Olleros 1510) in Palermo. Home Davis Cup ties are generally held at Parque Roca (Avenida Roca 3490, Villa Soldati), and tickets sell out quickly. Check www.ticketbis.com.ar for availability.

Participation sports

Parque Norte (Avenida Cantilo y Guiraldes, 4787 1382, www. parquenorte.com) and Palermo’s Club de Amigos (Avenida Figueroa Alcorta 3885, 4801 1213, www.clubdeamigos. org.ar) are recommended multi-sport venues (centros deportivos) which have swimming pools, tennis courts and football pitches.

BOWLING

Keeping fit in Puerto Madero.

130 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014

With 18 lanes and plenty of pool tables, Belgrano’s Paloko Bowling (Avenida Cabildo 454, 4775 8279, www. palokobowling.com.ar) is full most nights. Get there early to avoid the long wait. Bar and after-office hotspot Tazz (Avenida Costanera y Salguero, 4807 8299) has six computerised bowling lanes, as well as pool tables, dart boards and foosball tables.

Blanco Encalada 2126, Belgrano, 4781 0130). For those looking to try trapeze, juggling or tightrope, circus schools abound, including Mamarula Escuela de Circo (mobile 15 3290 8315, www.escueladeacrobacia.com.ar).

Or get airborne at Brenda Angiel aerial dance school (Bartolomé Mitre 4272, Almagro, 4983 6980, www. danzaerea.com.ar). For information on tango, see page 142.

CYCLING

FOOTBALL

Whether it’s joining an impromptu game in the park or getting a group together and hiring out a pitch, you’ll never be far from a good football match. Listen up for the words cancha de fútbol (football pitch); there are hundreds in the city. Try Buenos Aires Fútbol Amigos (mobile 15 3064 5225, www.fcbafa.com), which organises weekly five-a-side games and asados for locals and foreigners of all levels (AR$50 a game).

GOLF

Though BA has no stand-out golf tournament to speak of, recreational golfers can have a swing at the Campo de Golf de la Ciudad de Buenos Aires (Avenida Tornquist 6300, 4772 7261, www.campogolfpalermo.com), which sports an 18-hole course. After 2pm the green fee costs AR$80 during the week and AR$100 on the weekend; before 2pm it’s AR$70. Renting clubs, however, costs from AR$200. There’s also plenty to aim for at the modern driving range, Driving Norte (Avenida Cantilo y La Pampa, 4788 5666, www.drivingnorte.com.ar), from a green on an island to the huge net protecting the religious theme park, Tierra Santa, next door (see p120).

For the more serious golfer, customised tour service Sur Golf (mobile 15 5515 2322, www.surgolf.com) has access to 25 of the best courses in Buenos Aires province. The full-day outing costs AR$2900 and includes transport, green fees, lunch and use of top-of-the-range clubs, balls and buggies.

GYMS & SPAS

Most larger hotels let non-guests use their facilities for a fee. Slick, clean and busy, the Megatlón (www.megatlon. com) chain has all the latest exercise devices, offers classes and has branches throughout the city. Rates are from AR$195 per day or AR$680 per month. One of the city’s most exclusive clubs, Le Parc Gym & Spa (San Martín 645, 4311 9191, www. leparc.com) has exercise machines, a pool, squash courts and beauty treatments. Rates are AR$120 per day or AR$660 per month.

Biking Buenos Aires takes to the streets.

HORSE-RIDING

Most estancias (ranches) in Buenos Aires province offer day and weekend packages, which include as much riding as your backside can stand plus, more often than not, post-ride asados and country-chic accommodation. A stand-out option is Estancia Los Dos Hermanos (www.estancialosdoshermanos. com). For a more structured approach within the city limits, Palermo’s Club Alemán de Equitación (Avenida Dorrego 4045, y Lugones, 4778 7060) gives riding and showjumping classes.

If it’s polo you’re into – beginner or not – then Polo Elite offers excellent days out in the countryside (see p130).

ICE-SKATING

Besides freestyle skating, Winter (Yerbal 1617, 4631 7883, www. winterweb.com.ar) in Caballito offers ice hockey and artistic skating classes, with rink rates starting at AR$60 per hour or AR$70 for the day.

RACQUET SPORTS

Tucked under the autopista (motorway) 25 de Mayo, Pasco Tenis (Cochabamba 2258, 4941 0333, www. pascotenis.com.ar, from AR$190 per hour) is a well-equipped complex with quality clay tennis courts suitable for all weather.

WATER SPORTS

Most aquatic and nautical activities on the Río de la Plata take place in Zona Norte, 45 minutes from downtown, with centres located in and around San Isidro and Tigre. Renosto Náutica y Deportes in San Fernando (Avenida del Libertador 1999, 4744 6090, www.wake-board.com.ar) specialises in waterskiing and wakeboarding.

At Puro Remo (4313 8008, www. puroremo.com.ar), one-hour kayaking classes cost AR$200 and they also offer full-moon rowing trips. Popular riverside leisure spot Perú Beach (Elcano 794,

4793 5986, www.peru-beach.com.ar) in Acasusso, reached by the Tren de la Costa, offers kitesurfing, kayaking and windsurfing, as well as roller hockey and skateboarding. Single outings range from AR$100 - $153

Fitness

AEROBIC EXERCISE

Build up strength and stamina at Boot Camp Buenos Aires (www. bootcampbuenosaires.com), with sessions in Palermo and Puerto Madero (AR$120 per class).

Vitruvian (www.vitruvianba.com) runs gruelling group cross-fit sessions in Palermo and Recoleta (AR$30 per group session or AR$250 a month).

DANCE AND TRAPEZE

PILATES AND YOGA

Delightful Rocío and Carla will take you through your stretches at the Centro Prema (Jufre 663, 4771 2068, www.centroprema.com.ar). One class costs AR$80, four classes AR$250.

Buena Onda Yoga (www. buenaondayoga.com) is an Americanrun studio that offers group and private classes in English and Spanish at locations across the city at US$80 for a month. Meanwhile Bikram Yoga Buenos Aires (Avenida Las Heras 3541, 4800 1985, www.byba.com.ar) is the only bikram studio in the city, with rates from AR$426 per month for four classes. Lunchtime sessions are in English. At pilates studio La Usina Pilates (Studio 18, Costa Rica 4684, 4831 2534, www.pilateslausina. blogspot.com) in Palermo, prices start at AR$250 per month for four classes.

RUNNING

Cultural centres including the Ricardo Rojas and Borges (see p122) offer classes from tango and flamenco to contemporary and jazz. La Huella (Bulnes 892, Almagro, 2066 1153, www.lahuellaespaciodearte.blogspot. com.ar) offers flamenco classes as well as dancehall, African dance, forró, jazz, tap and bellydancing. Chacarita’s Dance&Move (Jorge Newberry 3663, 4554 8991, www.dancemove.com.ar) has hip hop, breakdance and yoga classes. Swingin’ Buenos Aires (www.swinginbuenosaires.com.ar) runs swing classes at venues around the city. La Viruta (see p144) offers classes in rock’n’roll and salsa as well as tango. All styles of Brazilian dance are taught at Balaio (Mansilla 2787, Barrio Norte, 4963 6066, www.balaio. com.ar). At Tedancari (Avenida Corrientes 4534, Almagro, 4504 4115, www.tedancari.com), instructors teach dance styles from Afro-Cuban to rumba. For modern and classical dance, check out the schools run by Noemí Coelho and Rodolfo Olguín (Montevideo 787, Tribunales, 4812 5483, www.coelholguin.com.ar; also at

Veteran marathoners and iPod-rocking joggers show up at Palermo’s Tres de Febrero park. Hammer out your workout on the marked 1600m loop around the lake, or head out on dirt trails that take you along the safe, tree-lined Avenida Figueroa Alcorta.

Scores of running groups can be found here too: if you’d like to join, just head for the Rosedal (rose garden), then ask around. The best routes downtown are the flat promenades along Puerto Madero or the red-earth tracks in the Reserva Ecológica (see p119).

SWIMMING

Swimming and the murky Río de la Plata ought not to be in the same sentence – take one look at the water and you’ll see it’s far too polluted.

Instead, try gym chains with pools such as Megatlón. In Belgrano, Acercar (José Hernández 1350, 4788 3352, www.natatorioacercar.com.ar) has lap lanes open to the public and entry costs from AR$105 - AR$120.

Parque Norte in Núñez (4787 1382, www.parquenorte.com) has three pools and water slides.

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Buenos Aires’s flat, gridded streets are ideal for exploring on two wheels, and with the introduction of the city’s extensive cycle paths and bike sharing scheme Mejor en Bici (www.ecobici. buenosaires.gob.ar), it has become more bike-friendly. Still, great care should be taken and defensive cycling practised.

Check the website La Vida en Bici (www.lavidaenbici.com/mapa) for a map of bike paths. Hugely popular Critical Mass (www.facebook.com/ masacriticabsas) rides take place on the first Sunday of each month, with two wheelers congregating at 4pm at the Obelisco (see p116). There’s also a Critical Mass ride on the night of the full moon, leaving from the Obelisco at 9pm. La Bicicleta Naranja (Pasaje Giuffra 308, San Telmo, 4362 1104; also at Nicaragua 4825, Palermo, www. labicicletanaranja.com.ar) hires bikes for AR$30 per hour. Bicycles can also be rented for free from EcoBici (ecobici.buenosaires.gob.ar), if you provide ID and a local address. Biking Buenos Aires (mobile 15 4040 8989, www.bikingbuenosaires.com) offers half- and full-day city tours (US$45$90) and has teamed up with Graffitimundo (see p126) for weekend graffiti tours (AR$200) around Palermo and Villa Crespo.

Urban Biking (4568 4321, www.urbanbiking.com) offers full-day bike and kayak tours from La Lucila to Tigre ranging anywhere from AR$400 to AR$1000.

DIEGO TABASCO

Gay & Lesbian

Anyone can get the fairy-tale ending with the help of FAB.

My big, gay BA wedding George Kafka gets the low-down on Laetitia Orsetti, BA’s most fabulous wedding planner.

F

orget Paris, Rome, Vienna… when it comes to romantic cities, Buenos Aires is a shoe-in for the number one spot. Need evidence? Just take a glance at the passion of tango, the never-ending nights or the romantic neighbourhood restaurants that perch on every corner.

For gay and lesbian couples, the city’s amorous avenidas hold an extra special something. The BA gay scene is massive and has been flourishing since the return to democracy in 1983, but the legalisation of same-sex marriage in July 2010 – which made Argentina the first country in Latin America, and the tenth globally, to do so – has taken things to the next level. Over 7,000 same-sex couples have stepped up to the altar in the years following the bill’s passing. Among that figure are multitudes of foreign couples looking to bypass prohibitions in their own countries or simply to enjoy the unique atmosphere of a BA wedding.

Capitalising on all the love that’s in the air is American Laetitia Orsetti of wedding-planning company Fabulous Weddings (4776 6906/ www.fabulousweddings.com.ar), also known simply as FAB. Having moved

to BA from Texas in 1999, Laetitia special days truly memorable. For immediately fell in love with the some, this is just a simple energy of the capital’s streets. ‘I felt ceremony, especially suited for as though I was arriving at home the couples on a short trip, taking moment I landed at the Ezeiza advantage of the Argentinian law airport,’ Laetitia recalls of her arrival. that allows anyone to get married After establishing herself in the city after only five days in the country, with a job in marketing for a major and even prioritises foreigners corporation, Laetitia decided to start seeking marriage licenses. For FAB on the day that same-sex others, FAB has created truly marriage was legalised. ‘I knew at extravagant occasions, planning that very moment, as we the whole process, from the celebrated in the streets bachelor parties to the outside the congress honeymoon trips around building, that I needed to Argentina. ‘We take If seeking marriage be a part of this historic pride in creating the in Argentina as a moment and of environment and the foreigner, Laetitia can atmosphere for each everything that was to help with all your legal wedding and party. Our come afterward.’ paperwork.

Building on her team dotes over every marketing experience, tiny detail giving that Laetitia used her skills and magical touch and the connections to set up FAB, one-of-a-kind feel designed organising the big day for couples especially to the couple’s wishes.’ with wedding dreams as varied as Whether that be a sunset ceremony their nationalities. From day one at the Tigre delta (‘truly one of the business took off: ‘Everyone we most romantic weddings we’ve ever spoke with was instantly planning done’) or a show-stopping, Broadwaytheir weddings, whether they had a inspired, fully choreographed first partner or not!’ dance, FAB is ready and willing to Since then FAB has put together make wedding dreams come true. weddings for Brits, Dominicans, ‘The city is alive and filled with love Texans and a whole host more, and makes for the perfect spot to focusing on the details to make their start your life together.’

132 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014

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The scene

The porteño gay scene works hard and it plays hard. On the play side, there’s a plethora of fabulous, queer-friendly club nights that run into the wee hours of the morning. On the work side are local organizations dedicated to advancing LGBTQ rights, with groups like Comunidad Homosexual Argentina (see p135) and Casa Brandon (see p135) creating anti-bullying campaigns, providing health resources and harbouring safe spaces for community members and their allies. All that community spirit culminates in the Marcha del Orgullo LGBTIQ, which brings thousands to the streets to support diversity in early November. Later that same month, same-sex partner dancing is all the rage at the Festival Internacional de Tango Queer.

And then for work and play all in one, there are plenty of gyms that double as cruising spots.

Perhaps that activism is working, as despite ‘macho’ tango stereotypes and a Catholic heritage, about 75 % of Buenos Aires residents say they believe gays and lesbians should be allowed to marry, with this number higher for the younger generation. In 2010 outcries and protests from former BA Archbishop, Jorge Bergoglio (now the supposedly ‘progressive’ Pope Francis) couldn’t stop Argentina from becoming the first Latin American country to legalise same-sex marriage.

While you may not see many gay and lesbian couples hand in hand in public, parties, hook-ups and dates are all easy to find. Indeed, when it comes to its forward and flirtatious gay scene, Buenos Aires is easily Rio’s rival in Latin America.

If you’re looking for an introduction to the sizzling hot locals, join the bar-hopping revelry with the boisterous crew from the Out & About Gay Pub Crawl (see right); or summon all your stamina for the dance-till-you-drop Fiesta Plop (see p134) or eye-candy central Rheo (see p134). Girls who like girls flock to Fiesta Jolie (see p134) and Brandon Gay Day (see right).

The queer tango scene is very much alive and twirling, getting back to its roots of two men dancing together.

Press yourself up against the chest of a handsome tanguero or saucy tanguera on Tuesdays at Tango Queer in the Buenos Ayres Club (see p144) or on Fridays at La Marshall in El Beso (see p143).

INFORMATION AND SAFETY Visitors can choose from several travel agencies devoted to serving gay tourists, such as Hadrianus Gay Travel (www.hadrianus.com.ar) and Tije Travel (www.tije.com). BA4U (www.ba4uapartments.com.ar) provides apartment rental services and helpful city information. Look out for the excellent free listings guides GMAPS (www.gaymaps.org) and Circuitos Cortos BsAs Gay (www.circuitoscortos.com.ar) in shops,

bars and hotels. AG Magazine (www. agmagazine.info) is an excellent online source of local and international LGBT news and goings-on. A word from the wise to the horny: male prostitutes (taxi boys, as they’re known in Buenos Aires) continue to be an unavoidable – and illegal – fact of the city’s nightlife. So if you’re not leaving alone, choose your post-club escort with caution. When in doubt, always ask – a few hours’ passion could cost you a few hundred pesos, or far worse, a trip to the police station as the perpetrator or victim of a crime.

Now get out and have fun!

On the town TOURS

Out & About Gay Pub Crawl Looking to get off Grindr and meet real people? This fabulous pub crawl is a sure-fire way to mingle with both locals and travellers. The tour price gets you an hour of all-you-can-swallow beer, wine and pizza followed by a visit to three of Palermo’s hottest gay-friendly joints where crawlers are treated to a welcome shot and drink specials. By the time the group hits the boliche (VIP entrance included – Thursdays at Glam and Saturdays at Rheo), participants have generally amassed a whole gang of new amigos and enough social lubricant to keep the party going until well past dawn.

Check website for meeting point (www.outandaboutpubcrawl.com).

Tours 10pm Thur, Sat. AR$130.

relaxing gay- and hetero-friendly atmosphere at Pride Hollywood is just the thing. While the original Pride in San Telmo is a long-standing favourite for an afternoon’s grazing and coffee-drinking, this branch, situated on the cobbled corner of a tree-lined street, is open later and is livelier in the evenings. Small and cosy on the inside, with sunny outdoor seating, Pride is a bit less tourist-crammed than some Palermo joints.

Humboldt 1897, y Costa Rica, Palermo Hollywood (4776 6197/www. pridehollywood.com.ar).

Bus 34, 39, 93, 108, Flux Cruisin’ apps 111. Open 10am-9pm A popular fixture in the In addition to the very Mon-Sat. No credit popular Grindr, gay centre of town, this cards. Map H3. D porteños are fans of basement bar attracts a www.gethornet.com for mixture of tourists and Sitges finding hook-ups. business travellers Sitges is one of BA’s few itching for an early drink as options for gays and lesbians well as an after-office crowd who’ve tossed out their dancing casting their eye over the evening’s shoes or those looking for a bar stool talent. Flux is easy to miss – located where they can kill an hour or two behind an unassuming black door – before heading to Amerika (see p134) but once inside, the vibe is chilled, the lights are low and the tropical cocktails or Glam (see p135), both of which are nearby. The drinks are no bargain, but come cheap and fast. getting hammered isn’t exactly the Marcelo T de Alvear 980, entre point here, unless it’s Friday (when a Suipacha y Carlos Pellegrini, Retiro AR$70 wristband at the door gets you (5252 0258/fluxbarbuenosaires. blogspot.com.ar). Subte C, San Martín/ as much beer and liquor – local brands bus 10, 17, 115, 129. Open from 7pm only – as you can handle). Some nights, daily. No credit cards. Map D5. D drag comedy, musical numbers and strippers who grin and bare it all liven Pride Hollywood up the mood, and there’s karaoke fun to If you’re looking to escape the buzzing be had on Sundays. (Be sure to pick up streets for a quiet coffee, the calm, a pass to Glam on the way out.)

BARS AND CAFÉS

Bach Bar There are no frills at this charming little lesbian bar in Palermo. The one-drink cover charge is a bargain in exchange for a guaranteed blast in what must be the friendliest lesbian joint in town. Don’t miss the live music and strippers on Wednesdays and Thursdays, or karaoke on Sundays.

Cabrera 4390, y Julián Álvarez, Palermo (mobile 15 5184 0137/www. bach-bar.com.ar). Bus 39. Open from 11pm Wed-Sun. No credit cards. Map F2.

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Avenida Córdoba 4119, entre Palestina y Pringles, Palermo (4861 3763). Bus 92, 140, 168. Open from 11pm Wed-Sun. No credit cards. Map F2.

CLUB NIGHTS

Brandon Gay Day Once a month on a Saturday night, the gals from sapphic-centric cultural centre Casa Brandon (see p135) get their dance on at Niceto Club (see p88).

Now in its 14th year, Brandon Gay Day is one of the city’s most inclusive LGBTQ parties. All ages, all genders and all sexual orientations come together to shake it like a Polaroid picture on the dancefloor of Niceto Club. AR$50 at the door gets you in with the performers, bands and DJs that keep the arty crowd moving till the break of dawn.

Saturdays at Niceto Club, monthly, Niceto Vega 5510, entre Humboldt y Fitz Roy, Palermo (www. brandongayday.com.ar). Bus 34, 39, 111, 140, 151, 166, 168. Open 1-6am. Map H2.

Fiesta Dorothy Put on by the Rheo Group, the city’s gay event powerhouse, this fiesta requires you to prepare your stunning self for a huge night, where DJs spin electronic and pop remixes and three-storey high video screens put you in the mood to dance it out with 2,000 partygoers. It helps that the night draws some of the best-looking guys and gals BA has to offer, from pill-popping musculocas dancing

Gay & Lesbian Fiesta Jolie.

Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014 133

Gay & Lesbian

Fiesta Eyeliner Once the hang-out of alternative and emo kids, Eyeliner has evolved into one of BA’s most inclusive parties for guys and gals who identify themselves as ‘queer, pop-rocker and underground’ and who come to bust moves to a hodgepodge of cumbia, ’90s pop, grunge rock and reggaeton. Set in a former church, Eyeliner takes ‘hetero-friendly’ to a whole new level, so don’t be surprised if that cute guy you had your eye on ends up leaving with a girl who looks like she walked off the set of The Matrix. If you’re committed to getting your punk on, get there before 1.30am, after which the entry jumps from AR$18 to 30. Good vibes and cheap drinks ensure the queue here is always epic, and on nights when the turnout is expected to be more than they can handle, Fiesta Eyeliner takes its party to Perón 1281.

Saturdays at Sarmiento 1272, entre Libertad y Talcahuano, Tribunales (www.facebook.com/FiestasEyeliner).

Subte D, 9 de Julio/bus 5, 7, 8, 24, 39, 60, 64. Open 11.45pm-6am. Map D4.

Fiesta Jolie So, what do women want? A good costume party, free ice-cream, all-you-can-eat pizza, tarot card readers and karaoke, of course. The opposite sex, it seems, wants the same thing too, because while Fiesta Jolie started out as

After the dance When the party, the after-party and the after-after-party are over, Be Hotel Buenos Aires (Venezuela 645, 4136 9393, www.behotel.com.ar), BA’s luxury gay hotel, is the most popular recuperation spot. Bayres B&B (Avenida Córdoba 5842, 4772 3877), Lugar Gay de Buenos Aires (Defensa 1120, 4300 4747, www. lugargay.com.ar) and Palermo Viejo Bed & Breakfast (Niceto Vega 4629, 4816 9032, www.palermoviejobb.com) also offer gay-friendly resting places. For longer stays, Friendly Apartments (Pacheco de Melo 1859, 4816 9056, www. friendlyapartments.com) offers stylish apartments in Recoleta, while Buenos Aires Stay (Avenida Santa Fe 1970, 3220 7138, www.buenosairesstay.com) has flats in every neighbourhood and price range.

The latter’s blog Gay Buenos Aires Stay (facebook.com/GayBuenosAiresStayGuides) features the latest happenings in BA’s gay culture.

LUCIA PRIETO

shirtless on the main floor downstairs to young model wannabes. If you really want to look the part in this ultra-sleek club, consider shelling out with a group of friends to get a VIP table for AR$1500 (AR$1000 of which goes towards drinks). That’ll impress the boys.

Fridays at Alsina, approx monthly, Alsina 940, Monserrat (mobile 15 3430 2711/www.facebook.com/fiesta. dorothy). Subte A, Piedras/bus 2, 17, 56, 70, 126. Open from 12.30am.

Map C4.

Marcha del Orgullo.

a purely lesbian and bi night, it now attracts hot young things of all genders and sexual orientations. The dancing and lip-locking action reaches its peak after 1am when the crowd gets going to live bands and smokin’ ’80s and ’90s tunes courtesy of DJ Fabián Jara. Free entry and themed nights keep the crowds coming back week in, week out.

Wednesdays at Bar Jolie, Scalabrini Ortiz 1398 y Gorriti, Palermo (www. facebook.com/fiestajolie). Bus 39, 110, 140, 141. Open 9pm-5am. Map G2. !Fiesta Plop Ready to party with BA’s electric youth? What started as an underground party has grown up with its uber-young revellers who now range from barely out of their teen wonder years to late twenties and beyond.

Cheap booze and a mix of straight-up pop, rock and cumbia helps you keep up with the energised crowd of mostly local gays and lesbians. Every week has a new theme, with a team of dancers and actors putting on a performance that’s worth the AR$50 cover charge alone. Plop tends to pack in the crowds, so get there early and bring the correct change to avoid the long queue, and prepare for a night of sweaty body pumping.

Fridays at Teatro Vorterix, Avenida Federico Lacroze 3455, entre Delgado y Avenida Álvarez Thomas, Colegiales (4555 4671). Bus 19, 39, 76, 93.

Open from 12.30am.

Fiesta Puerca Like its sister party, Fiesta Plop (see above), Puerca brings out a crowd of young, all-out partygoers looking to get down to cumbia, reggaeton and pop remixes. The electrifying atmosphere is charged by a team of hot – and we

134 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014

mean really hot – barely clothed male and female dancers who take to the stage to slather each other in mud. The night’s called puerca (sow) for a reason: don’t stand too close to the live action or you’ll get splattered.

Saturdays at Teatro Vorterix, Avenida Federico Lacroze 3455, entre Delgado y Avenida Álvarez Thomas, Colegiales (4555 4671). Bus 19, 39, 76, 93.

Open from 12.30am.

Fiesta Whip Hundreds of downtown club kids make Whip their Friday night fiesta of choice. Formerly known as Fiesta Oliver, the new name hasn’t changed the party’s love of mayhem, disco balls, dancefloors and drag queens. The AR$70 entrance fee can be avoided by getting your name on a list, but with frequent barra libre nights, the price certainly doesn’t keep the local club fiends away from the fun.

Fridays at Córdoba 543, y Florida, Retiro (www.facebook.com/FiestaWhip).

Bus 22, 45, 93, 101. Open from 1am.

Map C5. !Rheo The place to be seen on Saturdays, this weekly party in Crobar’s side space has three things going for it: BA’s best-looking gay crowd, a friendly party vibe and a massive, hopping outdoor area for mingling or more intimate moments. It attracts the best cross-section of BA’s gay scene, where ballerinas, drag queens and muscled beauties bop alongside thirtysomething professionals, actors and musicians, with both locals and tourists in the mix. The night before public holidays, the party changes its name to Human and relocates to the much larger, riverside Mandarine Club (see p86).

Saturdays at Crobar, Marcelino Freyre e Infanta Isabel, Paseo de la Infanta, Palermo (mobile 15 3430 2711/ www.rheo.com.ar). Bus 10, 34, 160, 166. Open from 12.30am. Map G5.

CLUBS

Amerika BA’s biggest gay disco regularly draws thousands of boozed-up, party-hungry punters of increasingly mixed and flexible sexual orientations, including a good-times straight crowd. There are two dancefloors, with four bars and ultra-flirtatious bartenders – sorry, though, guys, they’re mainly straight.

Add to that regular live shows (check the website for details), strippers, all-you-can-drink nights on Fridays and Saturdays for AR$150, and a very packed darkroom. Hold on to your valuables!

Gascón 1040, entre Rocamora y Estado de Israel, Almagro (4865 4416/ www.ameri-k.com.ar). Subte B, Medrano/bus 19, 36, 151, 168. Open 1-6.30am Fri-Sun. Map F2.

Contramano Remember the 1980s? Well, the crowd here – some of it original in more ways than one – is living proof that the gay pickup/hustler bar theme never really died. A cover of AR$40-$90 (depending on the night) gets you a drink and the chance to cruise and dance to pop, disco and electro. Be real though guys: most of the twentysomethings here are ‘working’ and looking for a ‘visa daddy’. Revel in the attention, but make sure you keep your feet on the ground.

Rodríguez Peña 1082, y Marcelo T de Alvear, Recoleta (4811 0494/www. contramano.com). Subte D, Callao/bus 17, 39, 140, 150. Open midnight-6am Fri, Sat; 11pm-5am Sun. Map D4.

Glam Glam packs them in on Thursdays and Saturdays (free with a pass from Sitges, see p133) with expats, tourists and porteños of all ages rounding out the crowd. Pick your spot from the two bars, several lounge areas, main dancefloor or boogie area in the back (featuring 1980s pop and Latin beats) and let the fun begin. Hit the hot playroom behind the back bar, just a short climb up a winding staircase – some might call it a stairway to heaven.

Cabrera 3046, entre Laprida y Agüero, Barrio Norte (4963 2521). Bus 29, 92, 99, 109, 111. Open from midnight Thur, Sat. Map E3.

The Sub Though the pretty boys flock to the likes of Rheo (see left) and Glam (see above), it doesn’t mean you won’t get a sugar rush of eye candy at these basement fiestas. This downtown disco enjoys a sizeable following of anti-fashion, shun-the-establishment gay boys who prefer their play nights to be unpretentious and set to an irresistible pop and Latin beat.

Avenida Córdoba 543, y Florida, Microcentro (4313 5169/www.thesub. com.ar). Bus 7, 20, 26, 55. Open from 1am Fri, Sat. Map C5.

CULTURAL CENTRE

SAUNAS, SPAS & CRUISING SPOTS

Buenos Aires a Full This place draws a young crowd and is busiest at the weekends and after work during the week thanks to its saunas, jacuzzi and film screenings.

Tanning beds mean you can even work on your colour before mingling with the crowd.

Viamonte 1770, entre Avenida Callao y Rodríguez Peña, Tribunales (4371 7263/www.bsasafullspa.com.ar).

Subte D, Callao/bus 12, 26, 37, 60, 102, 115, 132, 180. Open noonmidnight Mon-Thur; 24hrs Fri-Sun. Admission AR$80. No credit cards.

Map D4.

Energy Spa A good option close to Parque Centenario, Energy Spa is decked out with a bar, a gym, a pool, relaxation rooms and jacuzzis.

Bravard 1105, y Ángel Gallardo, Almagro (4854 5625/www.energyspa. com.ar). Bus 24, 36, 92, 168. Open 11am-11.30pm daily. Admission AR$65. No credit cards. Map F1.

Homo Sapiens Handily located just a block away from Amerika (see p134), this complex has private cabins, drinks, a movie zone, saunas and a smoking area.

Gascón 956, entre Guardia Vieja y Rocamora, Almagro (4862 6519).

Subte B, Medrano/bus 24, 99, 124, 128, 160. Open noon-midnight daily.

Admission AR$80. Map F2.

Markus Day Spa Latin America’s first integral spa exclusively for men, Markus has friendly staff and killer services. Men who know they’re worth it can indulge in the seven-hour Spoil Me package, which includes a Himalayan salt foot massage, an anti-stress mask and champagne. Services such as facials, massages, Botox and a decent barber can be bought a la carte as well. You’ll leave feeling a different man.

Ground floor, Avenida Callao 1046, entre Avenida Santa Fe y Marcelo T de Alvear, Barrio Norte (4811 0058/www. markusformen.com). Subte D, Callao/ bus 10, 12, 17, 29, 108, 111, 152.

Open 12.30-10pm Mon-Sat; 1-8pm Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D4.

Tom’s There’s something for everyone (well, perhaps not your Aunt Mabel) at this underground sex club. Its central location means you’ll find married men on a break from work during the week, and post-disco guys swinging by for one last stand at the weekends.

Basement, Viamonte 638, entre Maipú y Florida, Microcentro (4322 4404/ www.tomsbuenosaires.com). Subte B, Florida/bus 10, 12, 195. Open 11am-7am Mon-Fri; 24hrs Sat, Sun. Admission AR$60. Map C5.

Zoom Conveniently located next to one of the gayest gyms in town (Caribbean, see left), this sex club offers every nook and cranny you can dream of and draws a good mix. Make sure you bring your own condoms and lube – neither are provided.

Uriburu 1018, y Marcelo T de Alvear, Barrio Norte (4827 4828/www. zoombuenosaires.com). Subte D, Pueyrredón/bus 37, 39, 152. Open 24hrs daily. Admission AR$70 Mon-Fri; AR$50 Fri, Sat. Map E4.

Resources Comunidad Homosexual Argentina (CHA) This is Argentina’s oldest and most politically influential queer organisation. Visit for advice and an exhaustive library of books, films and press clippings. It also offers free legal advice for those who have suffered discrimination. Email to arrange your first vist (informacion@cha.org.ar).

Tomás Liberti 1080, y Irala, La Boca (4361 6382/www.facebook.com/ CHAArgentina). Bus 10, 24, 39, 168.

Open call to arrange a visit. Map A3.

La Fulana La Fulana is an indispensible community centre where lesbian and bisexual women get together to drink maté, chat, make friends and share tips and information.

Apartment 2C, Avenida Corrientes 1785, y Avenida Callao, Tribunales (mobile 15 6548 9542/www.lafulana. org.ar). Subte B, Callao/bus 24, 29, 168. Open 8.30-10.30pm Fri. Map D4.

Top dating websites www.guyspy.com A dating website and mobile application that’s recently taken off in Buenos Aires. www.disponible.com.ar This Argentinian website in Spanish and English has 44,000 local users. www.manjam.com In addition to its dating service, the website offers accommodation, work and travel tips. www.gaydar.co.uk This well-known dating site tends to attract more mature users in Argentina.

Work and play GYMS

Caribbean This is a great gym with a good range of free weights and machines, and some cardio workouts too. But the real draw is the guys. Packed from 6pm to 9pm weekdays, this gym is just around the corner from the working boys on Marcelo T de Alvear and next door to hot sex club Zoom (see right).

Uriburu 1012, y Marcelo T de Alvear, Barrio Norte (4829 2164). Subte D, Pueyrredón/bus 29, 39, 75, 109, 111, 132. Open 7am-11pm Mon-Fri; 9am-8pm Sat. Admission AR$30.

Credit V. Map E4.

Crowds gather at Plaza de Mayo for the Marcha del Orgullo.

LUCIA PRIETO

Megatlon Sede Barrio Norte Like the other Megatlons throughout BA (see p131), membership means access to a pool, machines, weights and all the typical fitness classes. Unlike other Megatlons, the large gay membership and status as a cruising spot means you can make some new acquaintances in spinning class.

Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014 135

Gay & Lesbian

Casa Brandon Where’s a girl to go when she wants to have fun? Try this four-level house, named after Brandon Teena, the transman played by Hilary Swank in Boys Don’t Cry – it’s a cultural centre, gallery, resto-bar, lounge, movie theatre and performance space rolled into one.

Come for information, for sapphic socialising at the bar (boys also welcome) or just to take in the scenery.

Luís María Drago 236, entre Lavalleja y Julián Álvarez, Villa Crespo (4858 0610/www.brandongayday.com.ar).

Subte B, Malabia/bus 15, 124, 141.

Open from 8pm Wed-Sun. Map F1.

Rodríguez Peña 1062, y Avenida Santa Fe, Barrio Norte (4816 8566/www. megatlon.com/sedes/barrionorte). Subte D, Callao/bus 10, 12, 17, 60, 110.

Open 6am-11pm Mon-Fri; 8am-8pm Sat; 10am-6pm Sun. Admission AR$165 per day; AR$750 one month membership. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map E4.

MARTÍN BONETTO

Music

I’ve heard your name is a quote from the 1989 film R.O.T.O.R, which has been described as a low-budget version of The Terminator and is often cited as one of the worst films ever made.

What made you choose that particular quote?

When we named the band, we didn’t know which film it was, we weren’t paying attention. It was at a party, the TV was on and we were looking for something that would be a bit different from the classic band names you hear.

El Mató a un Policía Motorizado.

Apocalypse pop Rosie Hilder catches up with El Mató a un Policía Motorizado’s lead singer, Santiago Motorizado.

T

he five guys from the Argentinian city La Plata that make up El Mató a un Policía Motorizado (He killed a traffic policeman) are notoriously hard to define. They claim to have invented their own genres (spatial punk, gang-style indie rock, country kraut and apocalyptic pop) and to have taken their name from a rip-off RoboCop film. The band members have equally bizarre nicknames: Niño Elefante (Elephant Boy), Doctora Muerte (Doctor Death), Pantro Puto (Queer Panthro), Chatrán Chatrán (a reference to a Japanese film about cats) and Santiago Motorizado. The group formed in 2003, and were popular in Argentina for nearly a decade before their acclaimed album La Dinastía Scorpio propelled them onto the international scene in November 2012. They have since toured Europe, the US and South America, and recently wowed crowds at Lollapalooza in Argentina.

Rosie Hilder meets El Mató’s lead singer, Santiago Motorizado.

Last year you performed across the world. Which did you enjoy the most and are there differences between your Latin American and European or US fans?

up, and where we started the band. You’re always influenced by your surroundings, I can’t say to what level stylistically, but yes, when it comes to starting an artistic project, ours seems to encompass everything that is removed from a big city, but yet is not so far away from it.

I think that in Latin America the audience is more enthusiastic somehow. In Argentina we’ve really broken the parameters in terms of celebrating and enjoying music…I’m sure there must be pogo everywhere, but in Argentina I feel like a mix of different things have come together and it’s particularly good. In Mexico the crowds are very enthusiastic too and always ready to party. In Spain, there’s a lot of alternative culture and has been for a long time. There are lots of festivals and specialised press and perhaps the public is more critical…Here in Latin America, the culture is really friendly and intimate. The nights we played in Peru were really intense, and we didn’t expect that, we had a great time. Really, we had a great time everywhere.

How would you describe your sound? Do you think it’s a typically Argentinian one?

The plan was to make music that we liked, drawing on influences from the past and trying to mix those with our reality. We felt there wasn’t any music that represented us and so the idea was to make something ourselves.

We like all types of music, but we

136 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014

try to explore its alternative side; those sounds that you don’t usually hear on the radio, that’s what we’ve always been passionate about.

Who are your biggest influences?

We’ve got all sorts of influences that come from music, cinema, literature and art in general. We were always big fans of The Velvet Underground, Sonic Youth, Pixies, The Ramones, in addition to action films and pop art. We like mixing sophisticated things with crude shapes and images and creating a distorted, harmonious sound.

Can you tell me about the labels Laptra and Limbo Starr that you work with?

We met the guys from Limbo Starr in Madrid and fell in love instantly.

They showed us their editions and we really liked their independent spirit, similar to our label Laptra in Argentina. Working with independent labels is wonderful, it’s like being in a family and having freedom, and it’s great to share this with people whose love for music is greater than a blind ambition for money.

This year marks a decade since your first album. What’s been the highlight of those ten years and how have you changed in that time?

I’m sure we’ve changed a lot over these ten years, I wouldn’t know how to describe it but I think we’re better, I hope we are. We’re better people, a little wiser, a few centimetres taller. The band grew and other friends of ours also joined, they help us with social networks, organising gigs, with the videos, with everything. We’re grateful, because the last ten years have been good, and we hope that continues for a long time. One day this will be over and it’ll be a sad day, but the important thing is not to be resentful when you stop doing what you love.

We felt there wasn’t any music that represented us.

Your home city, La Plata, is the capital of Buenos Aires province and is famous for its universities and unique city planning. What was life like growing up there? How has this influenced your music?

La Plata is a quiet city, a big town really. There are lots of young people around and that’s always good being surrounded by young energy. We’re happy slow-paced La Plata is where we were brought

What’s next for El Mató?

We want to keep recording our ideas, keep playing, travelling the world and editing CDs. We have a new tour round Europe, we’re going to return to Brazil, Uruguay, Peru and Mexico and we’re going to keep touring in Argentina.

For the latest on El Mató’s music and touring, check out their website www.elmato.com.ar.

The essentials

Perhaps you’ve heard the ch-chch-ch rattle of cumbia blaring from a car radio, or seen tangueros dance to the croon of icons like Carlos Gardel, so ubiquitous are both sounds to Buenos Aires. But if you want to dive a little further into the local music scene, catch the folclore sounds of northern Argentina at a peña or discover a new indie rock band at a local underground bar. And if you prefer something a little more familiar, there are dozens of venues where you can hear classical and jazz music as well.

Though not as well known outside of Latin America, Argentina has its fare share of musical giants. The aforementioned Carlos Gardel is undeniably the king of tango, but there are plenty of more modern superstars that break out from the tango mould so often associated with Argentina. Rock heavyweights like Patricio Rey y sus Redonditos de Ricota still get airplay today, as does Luis Alberto Spinetta, one of the most influential figures of Argentinian rock.

Don’t worry, though – if all you want to do is get down, preferably to something with a body-moving beat, Buenos Aires has a killer dance music scene that goes far beyond reggaeton.

SMALL VENUES

Buenos Aires has tons of good venues – and its Subte stations and parks are some of them. You’ll doubtless stumble across some música en vivo (live music) as you wander at night, especially in San Telmo. Listen out and look for blackboards, flyers and queues of youngsters outside unlikely looking doors. Two of the lesser-known jewels in San Telmo include Tabaco (Estados Unidos 265, 4232 9794), a grungy little club populated by rocker types, and Bar Guebara (Humberto 1° 463), which is another good bet for live

music. In the centre, Ultra (San Martín 678, 4312 5605, www. ultrapop-ar.blogspot.com.ar) is gig central, and you can also catch bands at La Cigale (see p72). The Library Lounge (see p74) at the very fancy Faena Hotel Buenos Aires is a beautiful venue with pricey sauce. In Palermo, atmospheric Café Vinilo (Gorriti 3780, 4866 6510, www.cafevinilo.com. ar), Vuela el Pez (Avenida Córdoba 4379, 4774 6834, www.facebook.com/ vuelaelpez), NoAvestruz (see p141) and La Oreja Negra (Uriarte 1271, 2053 3263, www.laorejanegra.weebly. com) all have varied live music programmes. Makena (Fitz Roy 1519, 4772 8281, www.makenacantinaclub. com.ar) serves up a mean cocktail and a varied line-up of bands, while indie-cool El Quetzal (Guatemala 4516, 3526 4805, www.elquetzal.com.ar) hosts live music most nights. The eclectic acts that play at Almagro’s Club Cultural Matienzo (Pringles 1249, 6610 1520, www.ccmatienzo.com. ar) frequently defy genre. For music you can move to, Abasto’s Uniclub (Guardia Vieja 3360, 4867 6764, www. uniclub.com.ar) hosts a steady stream of reggae, ska and Latin acts as well as a selection of just-emerging-from-thegarage bands. In Almagro, swing bands, tango orchestras and sedate, candlelit piano recitals are on the

Karaoke bars If you’d rather make your own music and have a fun night with friends, you can belt out your favourite tunes on Fridays and Saturdays at gay bar Sitges (see p133). In Recoleta, New Port Pub (Junín 1715, 4803 3332) rocks a Sunday night selection of classic hits from the 1980s and 1990s.

At Canto Bar Siglo XX (Avenida Díaz Velez, Caballito, 4474 5400, www.sigloxxcantobar.com.ar), the karaoke madness starts at 1.30am on Fridays and Saturdays. For authentic Korean karaoke complete with your own booth, head to Chess (Carabobo 1548, 4632 4242) in edgy Koreatown in Bajo Flores (take a taxi there as walking around the area is not advised).

weekly menu at hidden bar Sr Duncan (see p78). Down the road, bands rock out in the basement of student-favourite Imaginario Cultural (Bulnes 899). In Barracas, catch singer-songwriters and bands performing anything from rock and pop to reggae and Afrobeat at Plasma (Piedras 1856).

MAJOR VENUES

Rock, indie and dance

Electro-folklore band Sonido Guay Ñene often plays in BA.

CALACA STUDIO

Buenos Aires has well and truly established itself on the international concert circuit, with well-known acts like The XX, Arcade Fire and Cat Power having regaled the capital recently. While most local hipsters still worship The Rolling Stones and The Beatles, home-grown rock nacional also enjoys massive popularity, with artists like Charly García and Kevin Johansen, and bands like Onda Vaga, Babasónicos, Divididos and El Mató a un Policía Motorizado, just some of the acts currently doing the rounds in BA. Once the soundtrack of the city’s slums, cumbia now commands fans from across the social strata, and along with tango and traditional folk music, has been given the electro treatment.

When international names hit the capital, their shows tend to sell out quickly. The biggest acts regale the masses at River Plate Stadium (Avenida Figueroa Alcorta 7597, 4789 1200), GEBA Jorge Newbery (Marcelino Freyre 3831, 4777 8400), Luna Park (Avenida Madero 420, 5279 5279, www.lunapark.com.ar) and Estadio Único (www.estadiolp. gba.gov.ar), which is outside the capital in the city of La Plata.

Other important venues include the Teatro Gran Rex (Avenida Corrientes 857, 4322 8000, www. teatro-granrex.com.ar), which seats 3,500 people, and traditional theatre ND/Ateneo (Paraguay 918, 4328 2888, www.ndateneo.com.ar), which is a key venue for theatre performances as well as for local or Latin American musicians who play musical genres ranging from folclórica to rock.

The intimate Samsung Studio (5 de Julio 444, 5533 5533, www. samsungstudio.com.ar) features anything from jazz and pop to chanson française. A mecca for discerning fans, La Trastienda (Balcarce 460, 4342 7650, www.latrastienda.com) attracts cutting-edge local bands, established Latin American talent and international performers. Ciudad Cultural Konex (see p140) is an excellent venue for interesting and dynamic acts, like Monday’s improvisational percussion concerts held under the banner La Bomba de Tiempo. Niceto Club (see p88) and Groove (Avenida Santa Fe 4389, www.palermogroove.com) are good places to catch local and international indie bands, while Crobar (see p84) occasionally hosts fun dance crossover acts.

Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014 137

Music

CONCERTS AND TICKET INFO There are concerts every day of every week, with larger ones publicised on billboards and smaller ones advertised in the local press and listed on websites like Vuenos Airez (www.vuenosairez. com), Time Out Buenos Aires’s Facebook page (www.facebook.com/ timeoutba) and the BA section of Songkick (www.songkick.com). You can buy tickets through Ticketek (5237 7200, www.ticketek.com.ar, eight locations). Alternatively, use Plateanet (5236 3000, www.plateanet.com) or TuEntrada (5254 9100/www.tuentrada. com) for theatre and music bookings.

Most smaller venues, especially clubs, take cash only for shows. Take note: unless a concert is held in a licensed bar or club, alcohol is not served at concert venues or festivals.

The record label ZZK Records (www. zzkrecords.com) is taking digital cumbia to the world stage, with acts like Chancha Via Circuito, Villa Diamante and La Yegros. Digital folklore artist Tremor is also on the label’s roster, pairing synth loops with Andean flutes and bombo legüero (drum) samples. Other locals spearheading the digital folklore boom include female singersongwriters Soema Montenegro and Paloma del Cerro, as well as vibrant male-female duo Tonolec and Sonido Guay Ñene, an electro-folklore band hailing from Mendoza. Hip hop, dancehall, reggae and cumbia are the genres traversed by the feisty Miss Bolivia, who is always a hot ticket around town.

MA. CELESTE ESCOBAR

La Patrulla Espacial rocks out at Niceto Club.

Music

Salón Pueyrredón (Avenida Santa Fe 4560, www.salonpueyrredon. com.ar) is the closest thing Buenos Aires has to a classic punk club. It’s also the city’s major testing ground for local rock/pop outfits, so most nights Levi’s and designer T-shirts outnumber mohicans and studded dog-collars.

In Colegiales, Teatro Vorterix (Federico Lacroze 3455, www. elteatroonline.com.ar) is a spectacular old theatre showcasing both new and established rockers, while in Flores, El Teatro Flores (Avenida Rivadavia 7806, www.elteatroonline.com.ar) hosts local and international acts.

Jazz and blues A growing jazz and blues scene is emerging in Buenos Aires, and there are free and inexpensive recitals to be found at venues throughout the city, in addition to a number of established venues hosting well-known acts.

Notorious (Avenida Callao 966, 4813 6888, www.notorious.com.ar) hosts daily shows by respected local jazzers as well as occasional new folk and world music acts.

Inspired by New York jazz clubs, Thelonius Club (Salguero 1884, 4829 1562, www.theloniousclub.com.ar) combines the comforts of a very well-stocked bar with an impressive programme of live jazz. Newly opened Bebop Club (Moreno 364, 4331 3409, www.bebopclub.com.ar) is sure to be a hit with a line-up of jazz, blues, funk, soul and pop in a large basement venue. The elegant and trendy Boris jazz club (Gorriti 5568, 4777 0012, www.borisclub.com.ar) also regularly hosts an exciting line-up of musicians, while the Teatro IFT (Boulogne Sur Mer 549, 4961 9562, www.teatroift.org.

that’s an Argentinian passion and a daily ritual, this is a good place to put that right. Once the troubadours have finished with the show, guitars are handed out so you can make your own music, and there’s also dancing.

For those who have more stamina, peñas bailables are all-night winesloshing, foot-stomping, twirling and twisting shindigs where you’re guaranteed a happy hoedown.

Some of the best monthly parties (held on Saturday nights) are La Resentida (Bacacay 1600, www.laresentida.com.ar) in Caballito; and De La Ribera (Díaz de Solís 2289, www.webfolklore.com.ar/ laribera), by the river in Olivos. The weekly Feria de Mataderos (see p112) is also a top spot for watching locals Almagro is one of the best dance to live folkloric music. For a barrios to see up-andcoming bands, particularly comprehensive list of Buenos Aires might be at venues like Club Buenos Aires’s peñas, the capital of Cultural Matienzo (see check out www.

Argentina, but the p84) or Sr Duncan folkloreclub.com.ar. country’s musical heart (see p78).

Reflecting Buenos lies far from this fashionable Aires’s large Spanish centre. In fact, most Argentinians community are the flamenco bars are more likely to listen to música scattered around Avenida de Mayo. folclórica than tango.

At live folklore shows, or peñas, you An inexpensive option, Bar can tune in to the chacarera, zamba and Cantares (Rivadavia 1180, 4381 6965, www.cantarestablao.com.ar) features chamamé – the country sounds of live flamenco on Friday and Saturday Argentina’s far-flung provinces – and nights, for AR$85. Opened by a possibly, if you’re handy on the guitar, Spanish immigrant to Buenos Aires, even join in. A great restaurant peña, Avila (Avenida de Mayo 1384, 4383 Los Cardones (Jorge Luis Borges 6974) hosts flamenco shows from 2180, 4777 1112, www.cardones.com.

Thursdays to Saturdays at 10.30pm ar), is popular with students, as is La for AR$280, including tapas. The Peña del Colorado (Güemes 3657, atmospheric bar has walls covered 4822 1038, www.lapeniadelcolorado. with old black-and-white pictures, but com), which has good acts and great criollo-style food; and if you haven’t yet even better are the heart-wrenching managed to try maté, the herbal music and fiery Andalucian steps infusion sipped through a metal straw enacted on the bar’s stage.

ar) boasts regular live jazz acts in addition to its theatre performances.

San Telmo’s Café Rivas (see p34) and Boedo’s bohemian Pan y Arte (see p40) are intimate spots to enjoy weekly jazz recitals over a glass of red wine. In Barrio Norte, Clásica y Moderna (see p23) hosts regular evening jazz and blues performances in an elegant space.

Swing jazz has a small but devoted following; look out for swing bands Lobo Con Swing and Orquesta Inestable, who play regularly around town. The city government organises an international festival, Buenos Aires Jazz (www.buenosairesjazz. gob.ar), which takes place from 20 to 25 November.

Folk and world

138 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014

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Classical and opera Opera, classical music and ballet buffs should not miss a night at the magnificent Teatro Colón (see p140).

Classical music can be found elsewhere in the city, including at the Teatro Coliseo (Marcelo T de Alvear 1125, 4814 3056, www.fundacioncoliseum. com.ar), La Boca’s Usina del Arte (see p141) which has a 1,200-seat concert hall, the Museo de Arte Hispanoamericano Isaac Fernández Blanco (see p121), the Teatro San Martín (see p140) and Teatro Margarita Xirgú (Chacabuco 875, 4300 8817, www.margaritaxirgu. com). The Teatro Nacional Cervantes (see p140) has intermittent free contemporary orchestral recitals, while the Biblioteca Nacional (Agüero 2502, 4808 6000, www.bn.gov. ar) often puts on free classical and jazz concerts. Auditorio de Belgrano (Virrey Loreto 2348, 4783 1783) holds free classical concerts on Friday evenings. The Centro Cultural Recoleta (see p122) also hosts occasional classical concerts.

Modest institutions like La Scala de San Telmo (Pasaje Giuffra 371, 4362 3847, www.lascala.com.ar) are awash with talented performers. Much of the city´s classical music scene is in the hands of professional and amateur groups, including the Mozarteum Argentino (Ground floor ‘A’, Rodríguez Peña 1882, 4811 3348) and Festivales Musicales (www.festivalesmusicales. org.ar). Fans of opera can enjoy performances at the Teatro Avenida (Avenida de Mayo 1222, 4381 0662).

Lyrical opera is a house speciality, and the venue also hosts classical music evenings.

MARTÍN LEVI

Performing Arts

Explore many worlds in one night at the theatre.

Step into the rabbit hole Lauren Pringle meets with Natalia Chami and Romina Bulacio Sak, the two brains behind ‘Usted Está Aquí, Una Experiencia Teatral’, to find out what everyone is whispering about.

W

hile many of Buenos Aires’s big name theatres can be found along the bustling, 24-hour Avenida Corrientes, if you go off the beaten theatre strip there is one company in particular that is causing quite a ‘scene’ here in the Argentinian capital. Namely, Usted Está Aquí, Una Experiencia Teatral (translated as, You Are Here, A Theatrical Experience), a company formed by the talented duo Romina Bulacio Sak and Natalia Chami.

The two women met in 2002, on a theatre course in Buenos Aires while they were studying political science. The theatre course won, and since then, their artistic paths crossed numerous times until they decided to collaborate on a project.

Natalia states, ‘We started to think about Usted Está Aquí at the end of 2011, when we had both returned to Buenos Aires after living in London, Italy and Berlin.’ Having studied theatre in Europe, Natalia and Romina were inspired by the idea of site-specific theatre, a concept that invites the actor to play with the space and its surroundings. Upon returning to Buenos Aires the two teamed up to invent and explore new

ideas. The result was Usted Está Aquí. They started small, working with actors and experimenting with improvisation techniques in a tiny, empty house in San Telmo, where they invited just 12 spectators to each show to indulge in an interactive experience.

Attend an Usted Está Aquí show and be prepared to follow the actors down the rabbit hole, as though you were Alice venturing deeper and deeper into Wonderland. As you explore the space, the actors will throw you into different worlds and act as your guide through various situations. Ultimately, the spectators become the protagonists of the shows. Usted Está Aquí invites its audience members to explore, to think about each situation encountered; the show challenges them to examine their reactions to what may be new situations.

Audience participation is a key aspect of the experience and the directors advise attendees to come

in comfortable clothing and, more importantly, to have an open mind.

‘Each spectator has a unique experience; one thing might happen to one person and not to another, and this is what makes the show personal,’ explains Natalia. She emphasises a degree of secrecy as crucial; an essential part of the experience is that audience members don’t tell anyone what happens, so the element of surprise and magic for subsequent viewers is not ruined. ‘We want the spectators to feel a real sense of surprise when they enter each universe.

We invite the actor to play and the concept of improvisation is what makes this experience and each performance so unique.’

Since the show began in 2012, public support and plenty of good press have helped Usted Está Aquí reach the spectacular Ciudad Cultural Konex (see p140). So how exactly do you take a show from a 12-person audience in a small house into a mammoth space such

Ultimately, the spectators become the protagonists of the shows.

as the Konex? Here is where the principle rule of site-specific theatre comes into play: the show works with the environment at hand.

Natalia and Romina created a whole new production at the beginning of 2013 to fit the larger venue; 30 spectators are invited to each show, which is performed four times a night, each performance beginning every 30 minutes.

As ambiguous as this all might sound, that is the point. The secrets of Usted Está Aquí cannot be divulged, so instead Natalia and Romina invite you to explore, feel and let the experience take you on a journey you will never forget. The show has received rave reviews and is back for its second season at the Konex this winter. Almost 22,000 people have already created their own unique experiences; the only question left to ask is, are you ready to create yours?

Performances are every Wednesday and Sunday at the Ciudad Cultural Konex, with four performances held a night at 8pm, 8.30pm, 9pm and 9.30pm. To buy tickets online, go to www.ticketek. com.ar/newsite/usted-esta-aqui.

Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014 139

The basics

The chaos of Buenos Aires provides a wealth of inspiration for the local creative scene, in what is considered the theatrical hub of Latin America.

World-class underground theatre performances can be caught at the Cultural Ciudad Konex (see right) and top-notch talent at the spectacular opera house, the Teatro Colón (see right). More lowbrow entertainment can be found on glitzy Avenida Corrientes (BA’s version of Broadway), home to cabaret revue shows known as revistas porteñas, which feature slapstick comedians and showgirls.

Physical performance is popular here and BA is home to the reknowned Fuerzabruta, who combine the art of performance with circus tricks.

Whatever tickles your theatrical fancy, you’ll be sure to find it in BA. TICKETS AND INFORMATION You can buy tickets at each venue’s boletería (box office), often with cash only, or through Ticketek (5237 7200, www.ticketek.com.ar) or TuEntrada (www.tuentrada.com) for major productions or venues. Credit cards are accepted and booking fees apply.

Discounted tickets for plays, musicals, supper shows and films are available from Cartelera Baires (Unit 24, Avenida Corrientes 1382, www. cartelerabaires.com) and from Cartelera Lavalle (Lavalle 742, 4322 1559, www.123info.com.ar).

1034, 4863 2848). Traditional dances such as the chacarera and the foot-stomping zamba (not to be confused with the samba) can be seen and practised at peñas (folk music venues see p138).

Thur-Sun. Shows Wed-Mon. Tickets AR$50-$160. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map E2.

Multiteatro With its three small, versatile auditoriums, Multiteatro has a reputation for putting on provocative one-person shows as well as local adaptations of contemporary classics.

MAJOR INSTITUTIONS Avenida Corrientes 1283, y !Ciudad Cultural Konex Talcahuano, Tribunales Based in a former factory, this (information 4382 9140/ complex provides a gritty tickets 5236 3000/www. industrial backdrop to multiteatro.com.ar). an array of events, Subte B, Uruguay/bus What’s on when pulling in a young, For plays and workshops 26, 60, 102. Box office bohemian crowd. It’s 10am-8pm daily. Shows perhaps best known for in English, check out the Wed-Sun. Tickets British Arts Centre Monday’s La Bomba de www.britishartscentre. AR$220. Credit AmEx, Tiempo, an MC, V. Map D4. org.ar improvisational percussion-based musical !Teatro Colón show whose beats keep the crowd moving from 7pm until 10pm; entry is This is one of Buenos Aires’s grandest landmarks, complete with a lavish AR$70. interior and powerful acoustics. As Sarmiento 3131, entre Jean Jaurès y well as regular performances by the Anchorena, Abasto (4864 3200/ www.ciudadculturalkonex.org). Subte B, BA Philharmonic Orchestra, it stages superb ballets (including classics like Carlos Gardel/bus 26, 168, 180. Box office 4-8pm Mon-Fri; 6-10pm Cinderella and Swan Lake) as well as

All venues

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La Carpintería

Performing Arts

Theatre

Teatro Liceo This 600-seat theatre is the oldest and one of the most spectacular venues in the city and is still going strong.

Avenida Rivadavia 1499, entre Paraná y Uruguay, Congreso (4381 5745/ www.multiteatro.com.ar). Subte A, Sáenz Peña/bus 39, 168. Box office 10am-8pm Mon, Tue; 10am-start of show Wed-Sun. Tickets AR$180-$220.

Credit AmEx, V. Map C4. !Teatro Nacional Cervantes The packed programme here includes Latin American and Spanish theatre and dance, as well as free film screenings of mainly Argentinian classics on Wednesdays and Thursdays at 5pm. The building is a work of art in its own right.

Libertad 815, y Avenida Córdoba, Tribunales (4816 4224/ www.teatrocervantes.gov.ar). Subte D, Tribunales/bus 29, 39, 109. Box office 10am-9pm Wed-Sun. Tickets AR$50 Thur; AR$60 Fri-Sun. No credit cards. Map D5.

Teatro Opera Citi This classic auditorium on bustling Avenida Corrientes is the place to find big-budget musicals.

Avenida Corrientes 860, entre Suipacha y Esmeralda, Microcentro (4326 1335/www.operaciti-teatro.com. ar). Subte B, Carlos Pellegrini or C, Diagonal Norte or D, 9 de Julio/bus 10, 17, 24, 29. Box office 10am-8pm daily. Tickets from AR$200. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map C5.

Theatre in BA ranges from high-profile comedy acts and musical numbers to under-the-radar productions, often exploring political themes. But with more than 160 theatres in the capital alone, off-Corrientes and off-offCorrientes productions proliferate wildly, with works of independent theatre to be found.

Government-funded venues like the Teatro San Martín (see right), cultural centres (see p122) and Ciudad Cultural Konex all host an excellent variety of multimedia productions. For acting workshops, try the British Arts Centre (see p122).

Teatro del Pueblo Dedicated to bringing national theatre to the public, the focus here is on works

by Argentinian playwrights.

Avenida Roque Sáenz Peña 943, entre Carlos Pellegrini y Suipacha, Microcentro (4326 3606/www. teatrodelpueblo.org.ar). Subte D, 9 de Julio/bus 10, 17, 24, 39, 140. Box office from 5pm Wed-Sun. Shows varies. Tickets AR$90. No credit cards. Map C5.

Dance

Although tango tends to dominate dance in Buenos Aires, a deep-rooted classical tradition exists as well. The Ballet Teatro Colón, established in 1925, is the oldest company in South America. Another famous local group to look out for is Maximiliano Guerra’s Ballet del Mercosur. For those who have seen one Swan Lake too many, there’s the Ballet Contemporáneo at the Teatro San Martín, and Compañía de Danza Contemporánea at the Centro Nacional de la Música y la Danza (México 564, 4361 1672), a splendid old building that was once the national library. For modern dance, a good option is El Portón de Sánchez (Sánchez de Bustamente

operas (such as the Verdi tribute Masked Ball).

Libertad 621, y Tucumán, Tribunales (4378 7100/guided tours 4378 7127/ www.teatrocolon.org.ar). Subte D, Tribunales/bus 5, 10, 39, 129, 140.

Box office 10am-8pm Mon-Sat; 10am-5pm Sun. Guided tours 9am-5pm daily. Tickets AR$40-$2000; guided tours AR$130. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D5.

A small but cosy theatre in Abasto, La Carpintería is a great option for innovative, high quality performances off the main theatre strip. Ever since opening its doors in 2010, La Carpintería has been attracting an impressive line-up, including big names such as the actor/director marvel, Marcelo Savignone. Arrive early to get tickets and take advantage of the warmly lit, exposed brick café for a glass of wine and a picada. Jean Jaurès 858, entre San Luis y Tucumán, Abasto (4961 5092/ lacarpinteriateatro.wordpress.com). Subte H, Corrientes/bus 24, 26, 29, 41. Box office 1hr before shows. Shows Wed-Sun. Tickets from AR$60.

No credit cards. Map E3.

140 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014

Teatro San Martín The programme ranges from cast-iron classics to avant-garde experiments, and the works are staged in a building that’s a hymn to 1970s design. There’s also a cinema showing arthouse films from all over the world.

Avenida Corrientes 1530, entre Paraná y Montevideo, Tribunales (0800 333 5254/complejoteatral.gob.ar). Subte B, Uruguay/bus 24, 26, 60. Box office 10am-10pm daily. Shows Wed-Sun. Tickets AR$80-$120. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D4.

CRISTIAN HOLZMANN

Avant-garde theatre troupe A-terradas performs at NoAvestruz.

SMALLER SPACES

Actors Studio Alongside a varied programme featuring classics and a selection of outrageous original works, this studio also runs acting classes.

Avenida Díaz Vélez 3842, entre Medrano y Jerónimo Salguero, Almagro (4983 9883/ www.actors-studio.org). Subte A, Castro Barros/bus 128. Box office 1hr before show Fri-Sun. Shows Sat, Sun. Tickets from AR$80. No credit cards. Map E2.

Belisario Club de Cultura Set in the heart of theatre land, this small venue is home to great experimental theatre, as well as regular circus-influenced performances.

Avenida Corrientes 1624, entre Rodríguez Peña y Montevideo,

Tribunales (4373 3465/www. marcelosavignone.com). Subte B, Callao/bus 24, 26, 109. Box office from 7pm Fri, Sat; from 6.30pm Sun. Shows 9pm, 11pm Fri, Sat; 8pm Sun. Tickets AR$60-$80. No credit cards. Map D4.

El Camarín de las Musas This multi-purpose venue gets rave reviews for its highbrow productions.

The venue offers a constant selection of interesting and innovative theatre performances where you can enjoy a meal or drink before the show.

Mario Bravo 960, entre Tucumán y Avenida Córdoba, Abasto (4862 0655/ www.elcamarindelasmusas.com.ar).

Subte B, Medrano/bus 26, 92, 106, 127, 128, 140, 160, 168. Box office 1hr before shows. Shows varies.

Tickets AR$100. No credit cards.

Map F3.

NoAvestruz This intimate and cosy space offers a range of dance and theatre performances, shows for kids, films and live music. There’s also a bar and an art gallery.

Humboldt 1857, y Costa Rica, Palermo (4777 6956/www.noavestruz.com.ar).

Bus 34, 39, 57, 93, 108, 111, 166.

Box office 5-9pm Wed-Sat; 1 hr before

show Sun. Shows Wed-Sun. Tickets AR$50-$70. No credit cards.

Map H3.

El Portón de Sánchez A dance studio by day, this venue’s contemporary programme features avant-garde troupes, plus plays that fall at the pricier, polished end of the indie spectrum.

Sánchez de Bustamante 1034, y Avenida Córdoba, Abasto (4863 2848/ elportondesanchez.com.ar). Bus 26, 29.

Box office 9am-9pm Mon-Fri; 1hr before show Sat, Sun. Shows Fri-Sun. Tickets AR$80. No credit cards.

Map E3.

Teatro Ciego The ‘blind theatre’, is more of a sensual experience than a traditional one. Let the company blindfold you, offer you dinner and tempt you to theatre and tango classes in pitch darkness.

Zelaya 3006, y Jean Jaurès, Abasto (6379 8596/www.teatrociego.org).

Subte B Carlos Gardel/bus 24, 124.

Box office from 5pm daily. Shows daily. Tickets AR$120. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map E3.

Teatro el Cubo Set in the back streets of Abasto, el Cubo is one of the larger independent

venues in the city. In the heart of the underground theatre scene on the colourful street of Zelaya, Teatro el Cubo offers an array of exciting spectacles to feast your eyes upon.

Catch anything from sombre, serious plays to outlandish, show-stopping musical performances.

Zelaya 3053, y Anchorena, Abasto (4963 2568/www.teatroelcubo.com).

Subte B Carlos Calvo/bus 24, 29, 64, 140, 168, 188, 194. Box Office from 5pm Thur-Mon. Shows Thur-Mon. Tickets AR$80-$160. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map E3. !Timbre 4 This cutting edge theatre presents works by cult director Claudio Tolcachir, and specialises in experimental plays (many of a provocative socio-political nature).

English-speakers can enjoy the theatre’s occasional production with English subtitles and of course the lovely bar offering drinks and snacks.

Avenida Boedo 640, entre México and Avenida Independencia, and México 3554, entre Avenida Boedo y Maza, Boedo (4932 4395/www.timbre4.com).

Bus 2, 56, 115, 126, 128. Box office from 7pm Thur-Sun. Shows 9pm, 11.30pm Thur-Mon. Tickets AR$110.

No credit cards. Map D1.

Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014 141

Performing Arts

!Usina del Arte This 15,000 sq m cultural centre inside a former power plant has a 1,200-seat concert hall and hosts free art exhibitions, as well as many music and dance performances.

Avenida Don Pedro de Mendoza y Caffarena, La Boca (www.usinadelarte. org). Bus 4, 20, 25, 29, 129, 130, 152, 159, 168, 195. Box office 1hr before shows. Shows varies. Tickets free.

Tango

Orquesta Típica Fernández Fierro.

Orquesta Típica La Vidú.

Tango gets a harder edge Contemporary tango orchestras resuscitate tradition with a heavy dose of rock.

T

he wine is already flowing and the cigarettes are lit in the southern neighbourhood of Boedo, where Orquesta Típica (tango orchestra) La Vidú are about to start rehearsing. With more of a fiesta vibe than a traditional orchestra, they’re a smiley, mishmash of ages and looks.

Among the family-run clan of 14 members, is maestro Gabriel Bartolomei, director, composer and violinist and his two teenage boys, who are tuning up. When he signals, a hush descends, the musicians form a circle and flex some serious musical muscle.

‘I grew up with my father playing tango all the time,’ says Gabriel.

‘We’d tell him to turn it off. Now look,’ he says, ‘we’ve gone back to it but I live in the present, the past is what it was.’

From its BA brothel beginnings, to Paris ballrooms and back again, tango has never been static. While popular goldern era tango stars of the ’40s and ’50s like Juan D’Arienzo and Aníbal Troilo were busy getting people on the dance floor, others such as bandoneonista and leader of the nuevo tango movement, Astor Piazzolla, experimented with the genre by incorporating jazz and classical elements.

The rich pickings of the past continue to inspire, but La Vidú’s sound thunders along to the contemporary beat of Argentina’s

rock nacional, home-grown rock sung in Spanish. It fired up the biggest cultural movement of this generation when tango took a nose dive in the ’60s. La Vidú members grew up listening to huge bands like Patricio Rey y sus Redonditos de Ricota and a tango reworking of the rock icon’s ‘Blues de la Artillería’, is on their first album. Scissoring strings and roaring bandoneones overfront the guitar riffs and horns of the original. And it works. Judging

by La Vidú’s cover of ’80s thrash metal band Hermetica, tango and heavy rock blend to produce an effect that is at once clamorous yet strangely elegant. ‘The revolution is using the tools you have, not inventing something that doesn’t exist,’ says Jorge, Gabriel’s brother and band manager.

The lyrics of modern tango orchestras still tell a story about society, poverty, love and heartbreak. These things didn’t die with the tango legends; but the focus is now on finding a new language to talk about them and this sound is very much from the neighbourhood. ‘I listen to stories from my friends in the barrio,’ says Gabriel. ‘We have an asado and drink, talk – these things inspire me. The music can be easier than the words.’ La Vidú are not the only ones making noise. This particular twist to the nuevo tango movement took off back in 2001, with the trendsetting cooperative Orquesta

142 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014

Rascasuelos.

Típica Fernández Fierro (OTFF) at the helm. More than a decade on, their wall of sound style has earned them props gigging worldwide on festival lineups next to Rufus Wainwright, The Cure and Lou Reed. Their latest album ‘Tan Idiotas Como Siempre’, like La Vidú’s music, looks back to rock legends Los Redonditos de Ricota, only in this case they have the original Redonditos guitarist, Tito Fargo, on board as the producer. With a sound that is dark, intense and loud, the group electrifies. ‘We’ve got this rock spirit to us, the music’s passionate and violent. Whether I listen to Metallica or tango, it’s the same for me,’ says the dreadlocked El Ministro, one of the group’s four bandoneonistas. Strobe lighting and split screen projections blind the faces of OTFF’s cult-like fans at their Wednesday night warehouse gigs where their own ‘post punk rock’ vibe pays its dues to original tango dramatist Osvaldo Pugliese.

Rascasuelos, another tango orchestra making waves both here and abroad, want it all – old and new. By their own admission they’re a bit ‘bi-polar’. Singer Héctor ‘Limon’ García, who fronted his own

rock band for 20 years, thinks tango and rock aren’t so different. ‘They are marginal, urban and persecuted,’ he says in an interview with local newspaper Página 12.

Rascasuelos explores an urban voice, influenced by cities and languages around the globe. ‘If you don’t change and just play dead tango, the 20 year-olds will get bored,’ says García.

The band doesn’t underestimate the importance of the past however, as can be seen in their alterego group, Rascacielos. Under this name, the orginal Rascasuelos lineup expands to ten musicians and they leave the rock aside to faithfully interpret tango classics.

‘To be able to create something new, you have to really understand the old,’ explains García.

More than the instruments they play, what unites these groups is their passion for evolving tango, getting it heard and being inclusive.

‘We aren’t playing for money, we want to be close to the people, playing in the streets,’ says La Vidú’s Jorge. And as for the future of tango? ‘It’s genetic, it’s in the roots, tango will always be.”

— Sonja D’Cruze

The scene There’s something a bit paradoxical about tango. On the one hand it is a highly traditional, to-the-rules dance, but it’s also adaptable to the modern era with much-needed additions to the genre like the Festival Internacional de Tango Queer, held in November.

Ridiculously seductive if done right, tango can easily turn clumsy and awkward if done wrong. To ensure you hit the seductive note, try your hand at one of the many classes, shows and milongas (social dances) across the city.

Tango guides such as María Lelia Ivancovich (www.marialeliadebsas. com.ar) can help newcomers find their feet in the local scene through personalised tours that include a guided trip to a milonga and short history lesson. For group tours, try Go TanGo (www.go-tan-go.com). You’ll visit the streets and cafés of San Telmo and get to dance with the pros.

To sleep, eat and breathe the dance, opt for a stay in a tango hotel – check out Lina’s Tango Guesthouse (Estados Unidos 780, San Telmo, 4361 6817, www.tangoguesthouse.com.ar), Caserón Porteño (Ciudad de la Paz 344, Colegiales, 4554 6336, www. caseronporteno.com) or Mansión Dandi Royal (Piedras 922, San Telmo, 4307 7623, www.mansiondandiroyal. com), all of which can arrange lessons and visits to milongas.

Classes and information

For the blossoming tanguero, there are numerous group lessons across the city, and most teachers speak some English.

Milongas are often held after the class.

All the milongas listed here have resident teachers and usually offer

classes before the dance begins, and hundreds of couples offer private – and considerably more expensive – classes for all levels.

For complete beginners, classes at La Viruta (see p144) and La Catedral (see p144) are fun and unintimidating ways to learn the basic steps. The excellent Escuela Argentina de Tango (Talcahuano 1052 & San Martín 768, 4312 4990, www.eatango.com) has three locations in Microcentro (Galerías Pacífico shopping centre), Barrio Norte and San Telmo, and offers classes with the city’s top teachers all day, every day.

For a more contemporary style, tango school DNI (Bulnes 1011, Almagro, 4866 3663, www.dni-tango. com) has young, dynamic teachers, as does El Esquinazo (Gurruchaga 1218, Palermo, 3530 7725). Almagro bar Sr Duncan (see p78) offers free beginners’ classes at 9pm onTuesday evenings. These are followed by an atmospheric milonga accompanied by a live tango singer and musicians, where you can choose to dance or watch those with more experience while you sip your drink.

Where to dance tango

Milongas are the perfect way to get to the heart of tango culture. Everyone is welcome but a certain etiquette must be observed: milongas are not the place to drink too much and try out a few rusty moves. Schedules for milongas often change, so check with the venue before going or pick up a copy of the free Tango Map Guide from any of the venues listed below.

Try taking the class beforehand; during the milonga don’t look anyone in the eye unless you are ready to dance with them. Dance floors

are usually packed, so the embrace is very close and fancy footwork and wide sweeps are not particularly welcome. Most milongas include live music or a dance performance later in the night.

TRADITIONAL MILONGAS

At these milongas attire is formal and tango etiquette is strictly adhered to.

It’s often necessary to reserve a seat and men and women sit on opposite sides of the room. Men usually use the cabeceo, locking eyes with a woman to request the next dance.

El Beso This is a bijou setting for night-time dances and classes with very high standards (not recommended for wobbly, shy beginners), most of them taught by La Academia de Tango Milonguero. On Friday nights the venue hosts the modern and gayfriendly milonga La Marshall.

1st floor, Riobamba 416, entre Avenida Corrientes y Lavalle, Once (4953 2794/ www.elbesotangobar.com.ar). Subte B, Callao/bus 7, 12, 24, 37, 150. Open Classes varies, check website. Milonga 8pm-2am Tue; 10.30pm-3.30am Wed; 6.30pm-1am Thur; 11.30pm-3.30am Fri; 10.30pm-4am Sat; 10pm-3am Sun. Admission AR$40. No credit cards.

Map D4.

Centro Región Leonesa Excellent milongas are held here in a superb hall boasting one of the best pistas (dancefloors) in the city.

Reservations are ideal for Thursday’s popular Niño Bien event, for which the crowd really gets its glad rags on.

Humberto 1º 1462, entre Sáenz Peña y San José, Constitución (4304 5595).

Subte E, San José/bus 39, 126.

Open Classes 9-10.30pm Thur; 3-4.30pm Sat. Milonga 10.30pm-4am Thur; 4.30-11pm Sat. Admission AR$20. No credit cards. Map B3.

Club Gricel You can’t beat the atmosphere of this place for some serious tango fun. A regular clientele takes full advantage of the springy dancefloor and attractive lighting. Saturday and Sunday evenings are more for couples.

La Rioja 1180, entre Humberto 1º y San Juan, San Cristóbal (4957 7157/ www.clubgriceltango.com.ar). Subte E, Urquiza/bus 20, 61, 118, 126.

Open Classes 7-8.30pm Mon, Tue; 6-8.30pm Sat; 8.30-10.30pm Tue, Sat; 8-10pm Fri; 7.30-9pm Sun. Milonga 8.30pm-4am Mon; 10pm-3am Tue; 8pm-3am Wed, Thur; 10.30pm-5am Fri, Sat; 9pm-2am Sun. Admission AR$25; AR$20 on Sundays. No credit cards. Map C1.

Confitería Ideal This busy spot attracts coffee drinkers during the day, but it also has a full schedule of daily tango classes (see website for details) and comes alive at night as a mainly post-office crowd swings by to dance to a live orchestra in the large space. Particularly good are Thursday night’s Tango Ideal bash and Unitango’s Friday night affairs (www. unitango.com).

1st floor, Suipacha 380/4, y Avenida Corrientes, Microcentro (4328 7750/ www.confiteriaideal.com). Subte C, Diagonal Norte/bus 5, 6, 7, 9, 10, 24, 29, 39, 60, 67, 129, 140. Open Classes varies, check website. Milonga 3.30-8.30pm Mon; 10pm-2am Tue; 3pm-midnight Wed; 3-8.30pm Thur; 2-8.30pm Fri; 3-8.30pm Sat; 3-9pm Sun. Admission Afternoon AR$40. Night AR$50. No credit cards. Map C5.

FREE La Glorieta Held year-round under the bandstand in a Belgrano park, this thoroughly romantic open-air milonga attracts dancers of all standards and ages as well as enchanted observers and dog-walkers. Sunday evenings are

Tango

Complejo Tango (see p145).

Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014 143

particularly popular when the crowd gets dolled up in its Sunday best.

Barrancas de Belgrano, 11 de Septiembre, entre Sucre y Echeverría, Belgrano (mobile 15 6304 8185).

Bus 15, 29, 55, 60, 64. Open Classes 4.30-6.30pm Sat, Sun. Milonga 6.30-11pm Sat, Sun. Admission Classes AR$45. Milonga donation.

Salón Canning This large hall hosts a variety of different milongas, depending on the night. Particularly popular are Monday, Tuesday and Friday nights’ Parakultural events.

Scalabrini Ortiz 1331, entre Gorriti y Cabrera, Palermo (4832 6753/www. parakultural.com.ar). Bus 15, 39, 55, 110, 140, 160, 168. Open Classes 7-9pm, 9-11pm Mon, Tue, Fri; 2.30-4pm Wed; 8.30-10pm Thur; 8-9.30pm, 9.30-11pm Sat; 4-11pm Sun. Milonga after classes. Admission AR$40-$50.

No credit cards. Map G2.

MODERN MILONGAS

These milongas generally attract a younger crowd, have a more sociable atmosphere and are a good place to try out more contemporary moves. The dress code is not rigid and you’ll even see women dancing in flat shoes. In addition to the places listed here, other popular modern milongas for more serious dancers include DNI (see left, 4-7pm Sat), Divertango (1st floor, Yatay 961, mobile 15 5782 7417, 10.30pm-3am Thur), Milonga 10 (Loyola 828, mobile 15 4066 5831, www.milonga10.com, 10pm-3am Tue, 10pm-4am Sat) and La Pipetuá (Juan Ramírez de Velasco 55, www. milongalapipetua.wix.com/almagro, 10pm-1.30am Wed). Milonga de la Misteriosa (Humberto 1º 2758, www. misteriosabuenosaires.net, 10.30pm3am Wed) has a wonderful live tango orchestra. Gay-friendly milonga La Marshall (4300 3487, www. lamarshallmilonga.com.ar), held in different locations around town including El Beso (see p143), is very welcoming and has no strict rules about who dances with whom; check the website for details.

Buenos Ayres Club Club La Independencia This traditional tango venue is also The great thing about Monday’s Bendita (blessed) and Sunday’s Maldita home to Thursday night’s milonga en (damned) milongas is the fantastic live Orsay, which attracts a young crowd who come to drink, dance and listen to music from a young outfit called the live orchestra.

Orquesta Típica El Afronte. The Avenida Independencia 572, entre musicians, including a row of Bolívar y Perú, San Telmo (4931 bandoneonistas stretching and 7977). Subte C, Independencia/bus 10, squeezing with passion, a wild pianist 17, 29, 93. Open Classes 9pm Sat. and a by-turns heartbroken and Milonga 9.30pm Thur; 9pm Sun. enraged vocalist, make this an Admission AR$50. No credit unforgettable experience. On Tuesday cards. Map B4. nights, tango’s rigid gender rules are turned on their head at gay Villa Malcolm milonga Tango Queer.

Start with a class to Perú 571, entre prepare yourself for Venezuela y México, dancing into the early And the winner is...

San Telmo (4331 hours with the The finals of the Tango 1518/www.

World Championships (see international crowd at buenosayresclub.com).

Bus 10, 22, 24, 26, 28, p12) are held every August this atmospheric old at Luna Park and are free hall. It packs out for 29, 86. Open Classes Sunday night’s Viva la to the public.

9-10.30pm Mon, Sun; Pepa, Monday night’s 8.30-10pm Tue. Milonga El Motivo, Wednesday 10.30pm-2am Mon, Sun; night’s Fruto Dulce and Friday 10pm-2am Tue. Admission night’s Zum, all of which are AR$50. No credit cards. Map B4. modern milongas. An older crowd

TOP TIP!

!La Catedral The atmosphere at this bohemian venue is somewhere between post-punk/neo-goth and old-style circus/music hall. There are good beginners’ classes on Tuesdays and folkloric classes on Sundays. Even if you’re not a dancer, it’s worth going to this cavernous space for a pitcher of sangria or a fernet and coke at the helter-skelter bar.

Sarmiento 4006, y Medrano, Almagro (mobile 15 5325 1630/ www.lacatedralclub.com). Subte B, Medrano/bus 24, 124, 151, 168, 180.

Open Classes 8-9.30pm; 9.30-11pm daily. Milonga after classes.

Admission AR$50. No credit cards. Map E2.

Tango

Recommended Tango therapy

Those with two left feet might be tempted to get their dose of tango from the comfort of a five star spa.

With its new tango inspired massage, The Four Seasons Hotel spa encourages visitors to ditch the steps for soothing hands.

Its signature ‘Porteño Tango’ starts with an exfoliating treatment made from sesame seeds and red wine, and ends with a soothing hot stone massage – all choreographed to the beat of tango music. The 80-minute massage will set you back US$210 and can be booked as a couples’ treatment for those who don’t want to leave their partner solo on the dancefloor (4321 1200, www. fourseasons.com).

Taconeando.

144 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014

takes over on Saturdays for a more traditional flavour.

Avenida Córdoba 5064, entre Thames y Serrano, Villa Crespo (4772 9796).

Bus 34, 39, 55. Open Classes 7-10pm Sun, Mon; 9-10.30pm Wed-Sat. Milonga after classes. Admission AR$40-$50.

No credit cards. Map G2. !La Viruta These popular milonga nights take place in a homely, basement-level community centre. Dancers of all ages and abilities come together for tango, and the milonga gets going around 1am after the crowd has warmed up on the dancefloor with a sprinkling of salsa and rock ’n’ roll jiving. A full schedule of back-to-back classes ensures that this place is always busy.

Armenia 1366, entre Cabrera y Niceto Vega, Palermo (4774 6357/ www.lavirutatango.com). Bus 15, 34, 39, 55, 168. Open Classes varies, check website. Milonga 11.30pm-4am Tue; midnight-4am Wed-Sun. Admission AR$50. No credit cards. Map G2.

Where to hear tango

There are plenty of places to enjoy tango in its aural form. You can get a free taste of tango music from the bandoneón-wielding buskers on the streets of San Telmo, or at a number of neighbourhood bars where tango is returning to its gritty roots, most notably at the historic Lo de Roberto (see p78), where fervent crooners of all ages perform to a young, bohemian crowd. ND/Ateneo (see p137) is a serious venue for tango music, as is the Centro Cultural Torquato Tasso (Defensa 1575, San Telmo, 4307 6506, www.torquatotasso.com.ar). Passionate and skilful tango musicians can work up as much sweat as their dancing counterparts: look out for bandoneónplaying Piazzolla disciple Rodolfo Mederos; violinist Pablo Agri; and virtuoso pianists Pablo Ziegler and Sonia Possetti; as well as the Orquesta Típica Fernández Fierro (Sánchez de Bustamante 764, www.fernandezfierro.com), whose fun Wednesday night fiestas fill the warehouse-like Club Atlético Fernández Fierro with a thundering, rock-inspired tango.

Outside the ever-evolving mainstream, there’s a more experimental scene led by Latino fusioneers La Chicana. Also keep an ear out for live performances by local

JOE RONDONE

Argentina’s first opera house, which dates all the way back to 1878.

Flamboyant tango choreography is interspersed with performances by drum-wielding gauchos and an anguished Evita crooning ‘Don’t Cry for Me Argentina’ from a balcony.

The three-course dinner includes all-night wine refills.

Juan Domingo Perón 2535, entre Larrea y Paso, Once (4953 8700/ www.saboratango.com.ar). Subte A, Alberti/bus 24, 68, 86, 88, 95, 98, 101, 104, 105, 115, 118, 124, 140, 151, 168. Open from 8.30pm daily. Dinner 8.30pm. Show 10pm. Tickets US$45-$90; with dinner US$120. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D3.

Where to shop

Thigh-high slits and bum-hugging skirts are all part of the show.

electronica acts Bajofondo, Otros Aires, Narcotango and Tanghetto, who have given tango a bass groove.

For more information on the ever-growing tango music scene, see the tango feature on page 142.

Where to watch tango

Café de los Angelitos Stained glass and a gold and powder blue interior give this historic coffee house an ethereal ambience in keeping with its name. The celestial enchantment continues with freeflowing wine, a three course dinner and

Complejo Tango A huge performance space deep inside an old house is the venue for this show filled with tango passion and complete with an edgy knife-fight dance by a lone hombre, scuffles in a bordello and an all-round impressively choreographed performance. This is one tanguería where the dinner is well worthwhile, and don’t miss the brilliant class beforehand.

Avenida Belgrano 2608, y Saavedra, San Cristóbal (4941 1119/www. complejotango.com.ar). Subte H, Venezuela/bus 56, 101. Open from 7.30pm daily. Class 7.30pm. Dinner 8.30pm. Show 10pm. Tickets AR$680 show & drinks; AR$960 show & dinner; AR$1600 show, dinner, drinks and VIP attention. 20 % discount online. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D2.

La Esquina de Carlos Gardel OK, so it’s a very touristy show. But the venue is grand, the dancers are sexy and the dinner involves big steaks and blood-red wine.

Pasaje Carlos Gardel 3200, y Anchorena, Abasto (4867 6363/ www.esquinacarlosgardel.com.ar). Subte B, Carlos Gardel/bus 24, 29, 101, 115, 118, 124, 132, 168, 180, 188, 194.

Open 8.30pm-midnight daily. Dinner 9pm. Show 10.30pm. Tickets US$95; with dinner US$140. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map E3.

Esquina Homero Manzi The street corner where this establishment sits was immortalised in Homero Manzi’s tango ‘Sur’, and shows here attempt to recreate some of the atmosphere of bygone days in this traditional barrio. An energetic quintet is accompanied by alternating dancers and singers who belt out classics like ‘Malena’ and ‘El día que me quieras’.

Avenida San Juan 3601, y Avenida Boedo, Boedo (4957 8488/ www.esquinahomeromanzi.com.ar).

Subte E, Boedo/bus 20, 88, 91. Open 7am-2am daily. Dinner 9pm. Show 10pm. Tickets AR$220; AR$600 with dinner. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D1.

Rojo Tango For the best tango show your money can buy, it doesn’t get any more deluxe than Rojo Tango. You’ll be greeted with a glass of champagne before an excellent three-course meal that includes the likes of beef carpaccio, loin of veal with potato tatin and dulce de leche crème brûlée. Granted, it doesn’t really break any rules, but that’s not what you came for anyway. Instead, Rojo is polished and flamboyant; in a word, it’s Faena.

Faena Hotel Buenos Aires, Martha Salotti 445, Puerto Madero (4952 4111/www.rojotango.com). Bus 2, 4, 20, 64, 129. Open 8.30pm-midnight daily.

Dinner 8.30pm. Show 10pm. Tickets US$210; with dinner US$290. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map B5.

Sabor a Tango This slick show is staged in the magnificent former Palazzo Rossini,

Recommended The bandoneón, an essential component of tango orchestras, is part of the concertina family and was invented by Heinrich Band in Germany around 1840. Unlike an accordion, the bandoneón has buttons on both sides and the bass buttons play single notes rather than chords. Italian and German immigrants brought the instrument to Argentina in the late 19th century where it became synonomous with the particular sound associated with Río Platense tango. To learn more about the bandoneón and its history, head to the Casa del Bandoneón in San Telmo. (4382 7833, www.lacasadelbandoneon. com.ar)

Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014 145

Tango

The most authentic and affordable place to watch tango is at a milonga, where there is usually a performance from invited professional dancers. Two of BA’s most atmospheric milongas are the free, outdoor Milonga del Indio, held every Sunday evening in San Telmo’s Plaza Dorrego, and Belgrano’s La Glorieta (see p143), held in the Barrancas bandstand.

If you’re looking for a glitzier introduction to the genre, then a tango dinner show – aimed squarely at the tourist dollar, some do not accept local currency – is certainly entertaining (see right). Splendid old Café Tortoni (see p23) and Confitería Ideal (see p143) are on the more affordable side of things and are highly atmospheric, as is the Centro Cultural Borges (see p122), which has a small theatre in which some of BA’s best tango shows are held every week. To catch street tango for the price of a tip dropped into a hat, head for calle Florida most afternoons, Caminito during the day or San Telmo on Sundays.

a spectacular tango show that will leave you feeling nostalgic for belle epoque elegance. The former haunt of artists, celebrities and racketeers, this corner gem is now one of BA’s prestigious Bar Notables.

Avenida Rivadavia 2100, y Junín, Once (4952 2320/www.cafedelosangelitos. com). Subte A, Pasco/bus 12, 37, 60, 150. Open 8am-1am Mon-Fri; 8am-2am Sat, Sun. Dinner 8.30pm.

Show 10.15pm. Tickets US$90; with dinner US$130. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D3.

Buenos Aires is an excellent place to bag a gorgeous (and affordable) pair of killer tango heels. Some of Time Out’s favourite shoe shops for women are Comme Il Faut (see p101), Alanis (Bulnes 1849), Taconeando (Avenida Córdoba 4030, 2063 9671, www. taconeandoshoes.com.ar), Alma (Estados Unidos 652, 4307 5153, www. almabuenosaires.com) and NeoTango (Sarmiento 1938, 4951 8694, www. neotangoshoes.com). As well as making super-comfortable heels, 2x4alpie (Scalabrini Ortiz, white bell, 4831 6522, www.2x4alpie.com) does a hip range of flat, trainer-style shoes for both men and women. Flabella (Suipacha 263, 4322 6036, www.flabella.com) is a fairly ordinary-looking shop featuring a fine collection of well-priced footwear. The extra service is what sets it apart, as the store can make shoes by hand in a couple of weeks to suit your colour, fabric and heel height specifications.

For men’s shoes, swing by DNI (see p143) or Loló (Tomás de Anchorena 607, 4962 3860, www.facebook.com/ lolotangoshoes) which also offers a handsome selection. For clothes, try Tango Moda (Unit 4, 1st floor, Balcarce 961, 4300 3293, www. tangomoda.com.ar). Monserrat’s Segunda Generación (Alsina 1569, Flat 9, 4th floor, 4382 2582, www.2gen. com.ar) is a well-regarded supplier of vintage tango duds and haute couture.

Hotels Hotels

148

Apart-hotels

158

Hostels

159

Telos (love hotels)

160

Hotel index

160

Photograph: Casa Calma

ar). Subte C, San Martín/bus 93, 111, 152. Rates $$$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D5. D A MODERATE

Castelar Hotel & Spa In business since 1929, this hotel deftly combines period atmosphere and modern amenities. The integrity of the original design is intact – one of the rooms even doubles as a museum to the memory of the renowned Spanish poet and playwright Federico García Lorca, who spent a year in exile living at the Castelar. Some of the interior rooms have limited light and are a tad melancholic – fine for an exiled poet, perhaps; other guests may prefer one of the rooms overlooking the tree-lined Avenida de Mayo. Meanwhile, there’s a fine Turkish spa in the basement, with steam rooms, a sauna and massage facilities for men and women. Open to non-residents too, this is one of BA’s more reasonably priced spas.

Avenida de Mayo 1152, entre Salta y Lima, Monserrat (4383 5000/www. castelarhotel.com.ar). Subte A, Lima/ bus 10, 17, 64. Rates $$ double.

Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map C4. DA

Hotels

Rooney’s Boutique Hotel.

The essentials Buenos Aires is a metropolis that is not short of sought-after retreats and decadent 19th century buildings to escape the hustle and bustle of the city.

Whether you fancy a French palace like the Mansión at the Four Seasons Hotel (see p152), tango academies like Mansión Dandi Royal (see p143) or old school luxury at the Alvear Palace Hotel (see p152), there’s no doubt you’ll be able to find something up your street, or rather on the right street. For visitors seeking more independence or a longer stay, the city has an abundance of short-term apartment rental agencies which can provide the keys to everything from a compact pied-à-terre to an expansive penthouse. There are also a myriad of hostel options for shoestring budgets, ranging from party places to chilled retreats (see pp159-160).

PRICES, BOOKINGS AND SERVICES The hotels reviewed below are divided by area. We have noted price categories by using one to four dollar signs to represent the price of a double room, as follows: Deluxe $$$$, over US$350/ AR$2800 for a double; High-end $$$, US$200-$350/AR$1600-$2800; Moderate $$, US$100-$200/AR$800$1600; Budget $, US$50-$100/ AR$400-$800. Turn to pages 158-160 for the apart-hotels, hostels and telos (love hotels) sections.

The prices in this chapter – given in

US dollars – are the high season rates for the cheapest double room as quoted to us by hotels, and include VAT (called ‘IVA’ and charged at 21 per cent) and breakfast, though it’s best to check what’s included when you reserve.

The Centre

Casa Calma Offset your carbon guilt with a stay at this eco-friendly hotel, complete with living walls, bamboo bicycles for guest use and double-glazed windows that shut out the elements and city noise.

The bright, spacious rooms have a Scandinavian air, and there has been no skimping on luxury at the expense of planet-saving. Deluxe suites come with a mini sauna, while all rooms are fitted with four-jet showers and jacuzzis large enough to bathe a harem. The ‘calm house’ delivers serenity through small touches: yoga mats in rooms, balconies draped with vines and healthy, hearty breakfasts served straight to your bed.

Suipacha 1015, y Marcelo T de Alvear, Retiro (4312 5000/www. casacalmahotel.com). Subte C, San Martín/bus 59, 61. Rates $$$ double.

Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D5. D

Alvear Art Hotel With its gleaming marble floors, high ceilings and muted colours, the luminous lobby sets the scene for whats to come. The Art Hotel offers the same luxury as the Alvear Palace Hotel (see p152); the two penthouse suites on the 15th floor are the pick of the crop but the remaining 137 rooms include marble jacuzzis and Nespresso machines. BA’s top mixologist Tato Giovanoni is in charge of drinks, while the roof holds a spa and heated pool.

Suipacha 1036, y Avenida Santa Fe, Retiro (4114 3400/www.alvearart.com).

Subte C, San Martín/bus 15, 39, 106, 141. Rates $$$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D5. DA

Marriott Plaza Hotel If grand and traditional suits you better than boutique, this might be the place for you. The Marriott recently celebrated its centenary, and the entire establishment simply oozes old-world charm. The Plaza Bar is a glorious, Bauhaus-esque design treat, while the Plaza Grill is reminiscent of the banquet hall of an Austro-Hungarian count, with a colonial twist – note the fabulous velvet mechanical fans. The hotel’s location, overlooking Plaza San Martín, is one of the best in the city, and amenities include a fine fitness centre and a leafy terrace pool.

Florida 1005, y Marcelo T de Alvear, Retiro (4318 3069/www.marriott.com.

HOW TO USE THE LISTINGS This section brings together our pick of the city’s hotels. ! denotes a hotel we particularly recommend.

A signals a hotel whose bar is worth visiting, where you are welcome for a drink whether or not you are a guest.

D means free Wi-Fi for guests.

NEW denotes a hotel that has opened in the last six months or so.

HIGH-END

148 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014

Gran Hotel Hispano Located in the heart of downtown, this family-run hotel has been around since the 1950s and retains its original Spanish-style architecture. While most of the hotel’s 60 rooms are located around a beautiful three-storey inner courtyard, a few of the premium rooms have private balconies that open out on to the street. The rooms are small and modest, but feature amenities of the sort you rarely find in budget accommodation. Those seeking silence should ask for an interior room away from the frequent protests staged on Avenida de Mayo. The hotel is popular with bargain-seeking Brazilians, so book in advance.

Avenida de Mayo 861, entre Piedras y Tacuarí, Monserrat (4345 2020/ www.hhispano.com.ar). Subte A, Piedras or C, Avenida de Mayo/bus 10, 17, 64. Rates $$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map C4. D Rooney’s Boutique Hotel This lovely boutique hotel, just a stone’s throw from the Obelisco, has a literary past, as do so many places in BA: it was once the residence of the Argentinian writer and poet Leopoldo Lugones. Today, the 14 rooms and suites still have beautiful original wood floors, gilded mirrors, high ceilings and lovely chandeliers. Designer Paula Piatti reworked the original style with a palette of cream and soft green to create a calm downtown haven in a busy neighbourhood filled with theatres and tango dancehalls. Guests have access to a lounge bar, a café and a tango patio, where lessons are held three nights a week. Activities and tours can be arranged for guests as part of a package deal.

Sarmiento 1775, y Avenida Callao, Tribunales (5252 5060/www. rooneysboutiquehotel.com). Subte B, Callao/bus 12, 124. Rates $$ double.

Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D4. D

BUDGET

La Cayetana Historic House Classic La Cayetana is a thoughtfully restored 1820s home nestled on a back street behind a plain wooden door; and a buzz-to-enter policy only adds to the sense of sanctuary. Owners Estela Fitere and Silvina Tarrio found the hotel’s name following hours of searching through documents to discover the house’s original owner, Doña Cayetana Casanova. Beyond the ivy-clad courtyard and its 200-year-old higuera (fig tree) are 11 charming suites, finding inspiration in early 19th-century post-colonial stylings and boasting lovely design touches such as high bare-brick ceilings and original mosaic flooring. Each La Cayetana suite has its own individual quirks such as a spiral iron staircase or a clawfoot bathtub.

México 1330, entre San José y Santiago del Estero, Monserrat (4383 2230/www.lacayetanahotel.com.ar).

Subte E, Independencia/bus 39, 103, 168. Rates $ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map C3. D

Moreno Hotel A stunning art deco exterior forms the shell of this seven-floor boutique hotel, with an interior that runs along minimalist lines interspersed with dazzling touches left over from the roaring 1920s, such as glazed wall-tiles, stained-glass windows and wrought-iron lifts. Breakfast can be taken on the airy terrace, which houses an open-air jacuzzi with wonderful views of surrounding San Telmo and Monserrat. The rooms themselves are generously sized, with whirlpool baths and either a balcony or views of the church dome next door.

Gastronomes shouldn’t miss the chance to dine in the hotel’s hyper-modern restaurant, Aldo’s (see p32).

Moreno 376, entre Balcarce y Defensa, Monserrat (6091 2000/www. morenobuenosaires.com). Subte E, Bolívar/bus 29, 56. Rates $ double.

Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map B5. D

Salta 560, y Venezuela, Monserrat (4124 7500/www.hotelmonserratba. com). Subte C, Independencia/bus 2, 10, 39, 100, 103. Rates $$$ double.

Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map C4. D MODERATE

San Telmo & south of the centre

Hotel Babel Once home to a multinational community of late 19th-century immigrant families, this renovated conventillo-style house continues to welcome visitors from all parts of the globe, maintaining the tradition of a hodge-podge of languages that inspired the hotel’s name. Located within walking distance of Plaza Dorrego, the intimate lodging has all the charm and personalised attention of a guesthouse. Nine air-conditioned rooms surround a small patio and are compact and pared-down. Flat-screen televisions and chic bathroom suites add a touch of sophistication, and in the modest bar and lounge area you can browse an eclectic selection of books or contemplate the artwork on sale, while the obliging staff prepare your tipple of choice.

Balcarce 946, entre Estados Unidos y Carlos Calvo, San Telmo (4300 8300/ www.hotelbabel.com.ar). Bus 10, 24, 29, 74, 195. Rates $$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map B4. D

Monserrat Apart Hotel Sandwiched between the centre and San Telmo, this hotel offers easy access to many of the city’s top landmarks.

Granted, every room has a microwave, but despite its name, this is more of a hotel than an apart-hotel. You get what you’d expect from a hotel of this price range: plasma screens, free Wi-Fi, comfy beds with crisp white sheets and a modern red and white decor. But what sets it apart is the spa on the top floor. Book a massage with Alejandra before trying out the heated indoor pool, jacuzzi and steam room. The hotel’s tapas bar with a leafy courtyard is another charming feature.

Mansión Vitraux Cutting-edge design details and luxurious soft furnishings are combined with antique finds under the beautiful stained-glass ceiling that inspired this San Telmo property’s name. Choose the style of the 12 rooms that best suits your taste – a suite of glass and mirrors for the glamour puss or a Philippe Starck inspired room for the design conscious urbanite. Wine tasting sessions are held in the intimate cellar, and you can work off your indulgence in the gym or the terrace pool, equipped with a counter-current swimming system. There’s also a small heated pool in the industrial-chic

HIGH END

Hotels

Esplendor de Buenos Aires The Hotel Phoenix, the original lodgings in these premises, opened in the early 1900s, when it was a stop for many hopeful immigrants, back when vessels moored close by at Avenida Córdoba. The Italianate façade remains as a grand reminder of that period. A few years ago, the hotel became the Esplendor de Buenos Aires, rising like a phoenix from the flames.

Monumental high ceilings and huge doors give the place an otherworldly feel, with every window and door restored to its former glory. Artistic touches include displays around the hotel by the Mondongo art group, including a pixellated Eva Perón.

San Martín 780, entre Avenida Córdoba y Viamonte, Microcentro (5256 8800/www.esplendorbuenosaires. com). Subte B, Florida/bus 93, 152.

Rates $ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map C5.D

Other locations Guatemala 4931, Palermo (5217 5700); Fitz Roy 2172, Palermo (4772 7070).

basement – but perhaps the hotel’s biggest selling point is its location, in the heart of picturesque San Telmo, just off Plaza Dorrego.

Carlos Calvo 369, entre Defensa y Balcarce, San Telmo (4300 6886/ www.mansionvitraux.com). Bus 10, 22, 29, 126. Rates $$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map B4. D Patios de San Telmo If San Telmo is romantic, bohemian and steeped in history, then this restored conventillo (tenement-style structure) has done its barrio proud.

The poor immigrant families who crammed into this very building in the 19th century would be dazzled by its latest incarnation. Light streams through high windows into luxurious suites; a series of palatial tiled patios ensures there’s space in spades and then some; and Baroque motifs are paired with contemporary elegance for a result that’s pure sophistication.

The architect owners have topped off their three-storey stunner with a sleek rooftop sundeck and swimming pool, and the ground-floor café won’t cause offence to coeliacs or vegans.

Chacabuco 752, entre Avenida Independencia y Chile, San Telmo (4307 0480/www.patiosdesantelmo. com.ar). Subte C, Independencia/bus 10, 17, 24, 86, 129. Rates $$ double.

Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map B4. D San Telmo Luxury Suites Once through the gorgeous doors, you’d never guess bustling Plaza Dorrego was just a few blocks away.

But prime location and tranquillity aren’t this hotel’s only charms. This beautifully restored antique home dates back to 1867: original wood beams, floor tiles and a chandelier rescued from a Jesuit church take you back to a bygone era, while the modern decor provides comfort and style. All 12 luxury rooms have a living area and mezzanine level and are kitted out with Philippe Starck lights and mirrors, Nespresso machines, iPod docks and original artwork. Before exploring BA’s most bohemian and romantic barrio, head to the leafy roof terrace and admire the view, a glass of wine in hand. The kind staff will be happy to help with restaurant recommendations.

Chile 437, entre Bolívar y Defensa, San Telmo (4343 1777/www. santelmoluxury.com). Bus 10, 17, 29, 62, 64, 70, 74, 152. Rates $$ double.

Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map A4. D BUDGET

1555 Malabia House (see p154).

150 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014

Posada Gotan The traveller who favours a bohemian atmosphere will love Posada Gotan, a cosy bed and breakfast in Boedo, a barrio that has yet to be overrun with tourists. A typical neighbourhood casa chorizo, the house had been left in ruins until owners Thibaud and Gabriela blessed it with a full restoration. They lend a personal touch to every aspect of the business, from recommendations on the best spots in Boedo and tips on how to navigate the city, right down to a breakfast spread that includes bread

light-drenched, spacious gems. Set apart from the main hotel is the historic La Mansión. This belle époque jewel looks and smells of old-world grandeur, with four gold-leafed reception rooms, seven luxurious suites and one extremely imposing staircase.

It can be rented by the suite, by the floor or (for A-list one-namers) by the house-load – or simply enjoyed in its genteel element, over Sunday brunch.

With the hotel’s refurbishment came the wonderful Elena restaurant (see p42) and Pony Line Bar (see p74).

Posadas 1086, y Cerrito (4321 1200/ www.fourseasons.com). Bus 17, 67, 70, 93, 100, 106, 124, 130, 152. Rates $$$$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D5. DA

San Telmo Luxury Suites (see p150).

baked by Thibaud and home-made yoghurt. To take full advantage of the beautiful house, Posada Gotan also exhibits paintings by local artists and hosts the occasional afternoon tea.

Sánchez de Loria 1618, y Pavón, Boedo (4912 3807/www.posadagotan. com). Subte E, Urquiza/bus 4, 96, 127, 181, 195. Rates $ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V (only through PayPal).

Map C1. D

Puerto Madero

Hotels

DELUXE

Faena Hotel Buenos Aires There really is nowhere like the uniquely ostentatious Faena Hotel Buenos Aires. If you are looking for a truly romantic and memorable getaway, the Faena experience is the one to choose. Designed by the one and only Philippe Starck, the hotel is sensual, sexy and sleek with exotic reds, contemporary whites and is housed inside the shell of a disused red-brick grain silo. The food at the El Bistro restaurant is exquisite, with a marvellously modern tasting menu, while El Mercado (see p40) serves more traditional but equally delicious Argentinian food. Decorative motifs include gashes of cut red glass in antique bohemian style, also on sale in the boutique shop, which is open to mere mortals too, as are the Library Lounge (see p74), the lovely pool bar, the cabaret theatre and the spa. For information on Faena’s tango shows, see page 145.

Martha Salotti 445, Dique 2, Puerto Madero (4010 9000/www.faena.com).

Subte B, LN Alem/bus 2, 61, 62, 64, 103, 143, 152. Rates $$$$ double.

Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map B5. DA MODERATE

Hotel Madero This hotel is aimed at business travellers, but don’t let that put you off.

This chic and well-located 197-room lodgings has plenty to offer couples and families too, including a rooftop pool and the popular open-plan Rëd Restó & Lounge. In fact, the sleek restaurant’s loyal following of local customers is proof that this is more than just another bland business hotel.

There are also two bars – one indoors and one out, the latter (open during summer months only) specialising in healthy fruit juices – a well-equipped spa and health club, a heated indoor pool, and a massage room and solarium. The upper floors afford stunning views of downtown BA and the rooms are tastefully decorated.

Rosario Vera Peñaloza 360, Dique 2, Puerto Madero (5776 7777/www. hotelmadero.com). Subte B, LN Alem/ bus 4, 8, 20, 61, 152. Rates $$ double.

Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map B5. DA

Recoleta DELUXE

Algodon Mansion When only gilded ceilings and your own private butler will do, this sumptuous hotel delivers all the goods you have ever wanted. Tucked away on a quiet Recoleta street, just a few steps from the exclusive emporiums on Avenida Alvear, each of the ten impeccably-styled suites in this 1912 belle époque mansion comes with a palatial bed and opulent bathroom, four of which have an iPodsynchronised hydrotherapy massage tub. The teak-decked roof terrace boasts an inviting pool, open-air lounge and bijou bar. The hotel’s spa, cognac bar and James Bond-worthy Chez Nous restaurant complete the decadent package.

Montevideo 1647, entre Guido y Quintana (3530 7777/www. algodonmansion.com). Bus 17, 39, 59, 60, 67, 100, 150, 152. Rates $$$$.

Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map E5. DA

152 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014

Hub Porteño The well-connected owner of 11-room boutique hotel Hub Porteño makes it his mission to tailor-make each guest’s stay. Choose from a host of ‘miniexperiences’: how about a tour of BA’s most exclusive boutiques with your very own personal shopper and chauffeur? Or a tango-tastic day of workshops and midnight milongas? As for the hotel itself, it’s clear from the moment you walk through the opulent marble entrance that no expense has been spared: pictures from Amalia Fortabat’s private collection hang on the walls and every room is adorned with belle époque style antique furniture, a Nespresso machine and an iPad. The leafy roof terrace and gourmet restaurant Tarquino (see p42) complete a very pretty picture.

Rodríguez Peña 1967, entre Avenida Alvear y Posadas (3220 6600/www. hubporteno.com). Bus 10, 37, 60, 62, 102. Rates $$$$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map E5. DA

Alvear Palace Hotel During Argentina’s golden age, the expression ‘as rich as an Argentinian’ was shorthand in Europe for ostentatious wealth. The economic situation might be a little more complex these days, but the sumptuous Alvear still reeks of money and old-school class. This hotel fills half a block of the lavish Avenida Alvear, and its 191 rooms are an ocean of opulence in rich burgundies, with antique French furniture and lashings of space. The lobby is a cathedral to power and riches, with gracious staff who never make you feel like an imposter in paradise, even if you Park Hyatt Buenos Aires patently are one. Among the hotel’s Contradictory as it might seem, bars and restaurants are two of the opulence and minimalism are the city’s most illustrious dining design imperatives at one of the city’s establishments. A buffet lunch or a most luxurious places of rest. In true high tea in the spectacular L’Orangerie belle époque style, the entrance to the is the best way for non-guests to soak hotel is a portrait of neoclassical up the hotel’s ambience, while La columns, marble floors and cast-iron Bourgogne restaurant is a gates, while the rooms gastronomic legend here in themselves speak to a the city once known as 21st-century sensibility. the Paris of South The hotel boasts a Cash or credit?

America. vinoteca with over 3,000 The high black-market Avenida Alvear 1891, bottles of Argentinian rate for US dollars entre Avenida Callao y wines (including some means paying in cash Ayacucho (4808 2100/ of the best malbecs can get a you a better www.alvearpalace.com). ever poured), a cheese room rate.

Bus 67, 93, 130. Rates room (that’s right: a $$$$ double. Credit AmEx, cheese room) and three MC, V. Map E5. DA restaurants. By day, succumb to the delights of the Ahin Wellness Four Seasons Hotel Spa and its 25-metre pool. By night, If you are looking for star-worthy enjoy a spot of al fresco dining on the lodgings, the Four Seasons will terraces, before retiring to the Oak Bar, definitely not disappoint. With a where a fire warms a room decked out dazzling reputation (Madonna, Shakira in antique wooden panels and leather and Bono are all known to have been armchairs in the style of a posh guests of the hotel), this recently gentlemen’s club. refurbished 12-storey monument to Avenida Alvear 1661, entre taste and elegance boasts an Montevideo y Rodríguez Peña (5171 immaculate garden, complete with an 1234/www.buenosaires.park.hyatt.com). outdoor pool. The oriental-style spa Bus 17, 60, 61, 67, 93, 124, 152. provides tranquillity in a bottle and a Rates $$$$ double. Credit AmEx, masseur’s touch, and the 27 suites are MC, V. Map D4.DA

TOP TIP!

HIGH END

Mio Buenos Aires Owned by the Catena clan – Argentina’s most famous family of winegrowers – this Recoleta hotel is, unsurprisingly, filled with viticultural touches. Both wine buffs and interior design fanatics will appreciate the gorgeous French oak barrel doors, the champagne dispenser and fine selection of wines in every room, as well as the muted, earthy colours of the hotel decor. The modern rooms are all equipped with Nespresso machines, iPod docks, balconies and a living area, and bathrooms are kitted out with sweet-smelling L’Occitane products.

There’s a spa and pool and if you opt for one of the terrace suites, you get your very own outdoor jacuzzi.

Avenida Quintana 465, y Ayacucho (5295 8500/www.miobuenosaires.com).

Bus 10, 37, 60, 62, 102, 110, 130.

Rates $$$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map E5. DA MODERATE

!Legado Mítico Let’s face it: theme hotels rarely work outside Las Vegas; only on the Strip does it really matter whether your bellhop is dressed as a Roman centurion or Sammy Davis Jr. So kudos to the designers of Legado Mítico, who have created a themed boutique hotel that doesn’t sacrifice comfort and style to gimmickry.

Each of its 11 spacious rooms is devoted to a famous figure from Argentinian history, including tango genius Carlos Gardel, beloved author Jorge Luis Borges and, it hardly needs saying, former First Lady Eva Perón. Each room is decorated according to its theme, with books, photographs and posters that not only look good but are genuinely illuminating.

But don’t worry, you won’t be tested on any of this, and there’s plenty of stuff for boneheads too, including large-screen TVs, a pretty terrace with comfy loungers and a bar and breakfast room.

Gurruchaga 1848, entre Costa Rica y Nicaragua (4833 1300/www. legadomitico.com). Bus 15, 34, 36, 39, 55, 160. Rates $$$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3. D Mine Hotel Boutique Atmospherically lit to accentuate the positive in both its design and its

HIGH-END

Hotels

MODERATE

Nuss This unfussy, elegant former convent is located just steps away from lively Plaza Serrano with its shops, bars and restaurants, so that despite your serene accommodation choice, your stay here will most likely be more about hedonism, in one form or another, than asceticism. But if you’re determined to remain cloistered away for a weekend of uninterrupted rest and relaxation, Nuss’s comfortable, contemporary rooms, infused with an understated oldschool sophistication, are ideal. A small gym and sauna are complemented by a rooftop terrace, where you can take a dip in the pool, though it’s more ornamental than Olympic-size.

1555 Malabia House Much imitated though perhaps still not bettered, this establishment was at the vanguard of the boutique hotel wave in Palermo Soho. Recently reopened, this former convent – once home to the ladies of San Vicente Ferrer, who would scarcely recognise its contemporary incarnation – benefits from its owner’s inherent flair for design. Mini outdoor areas combine to create a relaxed oasis, and the warmth of your reception will likely tempt you to linger – few travellers leave these premises unimpressed. The 15 tasteful rooms all have air-conditioning and one has its own balcony. Though the building has undergone a renovation scarcely imaginable in 1896, it truly remains an urban sanctuary.

Malabia 1555, entre Gorriti y Honduras (4833 2410/www. malabiahouse.com.ar). Bus 39, 55, 168.

Rates $$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2. D Atempo Fancy your own two-storey loft apartment? How about a swimming pool out back? Atempo delivers the Palermo Hollywood dream at prices that can’t be beaten, complete with buffet breakfast, peaceful courtyard and in-house bar. Set on a quiet street, the 20 suites and eight sleek lofts in this ten-storey block come with king-size beds, kitchenettes, balconies and bathrooms large enough to practise your tango moves in.

Arévalo 1564, entre Gorriti y Cabrera (5297 3333/www.atempohotel.com).

Bus 39, 168. Rates $$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H2. D

BA Sohotel Fresh flowers, Chesterfield sofas and a convivial atmosphere greet visitors at this friendly Palermo Soho hotel. The pea green and vermilion colour scheme runs throughout, as do contemporary paintings by local artists. Spacious, modern bedrooms are outfitted with custom furniture and balconies with vistas of Palermo and have disabled-accessible amenities to boot. The hotel is within proximity of all Palermo’s best bars and shopping, but if rest is on your agenda, book the seventh floor Premium suite and order a massage in your room. Better yet, enjoy the rooftop parrilla, wood-decked terrace with a jacuzzi and multi-language library.

Paraguay 4485, y Jorge Luis Borges (4832 4474/www.basohotel.com). Subte D, Plaza Italia/bus 15, 29, 68, 93, 160, 188, 194. Rates $$. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3. D

Palermo !Home Hotel It’s not, truth be told, very homely at all at Home. Unless your house boasts flawless design, vintage wallpaper in every room, spa services, a personal shopper and is ecologically friendly to boot. Each of the rooms at this boutique hotel has its own look, and is designed with natural, eco-friendly materials, and loft apartments are available for further privacy. The breakfast is included in the room rate and presented like a tray studded with jewels: a thimble of juice here; a shot of yoghurt there; bread, cheese and jam and an elegant morsel of chocolate ganache, and lots of good coffee. Book a suite alongside the azure blue pool or a room with a view of the English-style garden. Guests and visitors can truly make themselves at home at the lovely restaurant and bar, or head out into the city by booking one of the many available tours.

El Salvador 4916, y Jorge Luis Borges (4833 8100/www.nusshotel.com). Bus 34, 39. Rates $$$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3. D

guests, this first-class boutique hotel is decked out in brown and neutral tones and funky furniture that looks like it came straight out of a swinging 1960s bachelor pad – but cooler. Mine is retro without feeling stuffy, and original without trying too hard. DVD players and jetted baths in all 20 rooms add a spot of postmodern flair, while the downstairs café, where breakfast is served, is a cheerful sort of place to start the day and meet other likeminded travellers, if you’re so inclined.

There’s also an attractive swimming pool in the garden out back.

Gorriti 4770, entre Malabia y Armenia (4832 1100/www.minehotel.com). Bus 15, 39, 151, 168. Rates $$$ double.

Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2. D

LUIS DURAN

Design Suites & Towers The lobby sets the tone for the hip and seemingly ever-expanding mini chain Design Suites. Set around an elongated decorative pool fashionable guests and stylish staff relax while electronic music thumps away in the background.

It has the communal, relaxed feel of a backpacker’s hostel – one frequented by wealthy young hipsters. The well-lit, minimalist suites come in three sizes: standard, for one or two people, and larger suites for up to four (five if agreed in advance). Booking a room also gets you access to a fitness centre around the corner. At night, eat at the hotel’s sophisticated restaurant, open to the public, which boasts a great wine selection and an appealing menu.

Marcelo T de Alvear 1683, entre Rodríguez Peña y Montevideo (4814 8700/www.designsuites.com). Subte D, Callao/bus 39, 132, 152.

Rates $$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D4. D

Honduras 5860, entre Carranza y Ravignani (4778 1008/www. homebuenosaires.com). Bus 39, 57, 93, 111, 140, 151, 168. Rates $$$ double.

Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H2. DA

Posada Gotan (see p150).

154 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014

Bo Bo Hotel Bo Bo helped pave the way in Palermo for boutique hotels, and the standard of service here is exemplary. The hotel’s piano gets a tune-up when one of Bo Bo’s musically-inclined clients

Hotels Tme Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014 155

!The Glu Hotel The Glu was conceived and built as a hotel from the ground up, so instead of cramming the odds and ends of every end-of-line designer sale into rooms the size of walk-in wardrobes, here the smallest room measures 35sq m, and is decorated in irreproachably minimalist style. Immaculate rosewood furnishings, buff leather sofas and spotless linen bedclothes are all pleasing to the eye and to the touch.

There’s a rooftop jacuzzi and a spa downstairs with a sauna and an invigorating Scottish shower. And no, that’s not a thorough soaking by icy, needle-sharp, sideways-on rain – nor a steady Dundee drizzle or a Glasgow general precipitation. Instead, it’s an invigorating shower endowed with extra powerful jets.

Godoy Cruz 1733, y Gorriti (4831 4646/www.thegluhotel.com). Bus 34, 55. Rates $$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2. D

Krista Hotel Boutique Eschewing the hip and trendy template to which some boutique properties adhere so rigidly, Krista’s owners have managed to maintain the sort of understated elegance that befits this early 20th-century building. Many of the structure’s original features have been kept intact, and the ten large, comfortable bedrooms – a number of which open on to interior patios – combine calming colour schemes and classic furnishings like bijou chandeliers and footed baths with modern comforts. The hotel’s location in Palermo Hollywood means there is plenty of evening entertainment close by, and for some pampering before a big night out, you can treat yourself to a therapeutic massage on the premises.

Bonpland 1665, entre Gorriti y Honduras (4771 4697/www.kristahotel. com.ar). Bus 39, 93, 108, 111, 140, 151, 168. Rates $$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H2. D

39, 93, 108, 140, 151, 168. Rates $$ double. Credit AmEx, V. Map H2. D

Ilum When you can’t decide between a city break in Buenos Aires or a relaxing retreat on a Thai island, Ilum delivers the best of both worlds. Buddha statues adorn this luminous boutique hotel, where a cascading waterfall descends into the lobby and a serene back garden transports you light years away from the urban cacophony. There are just 12 elegant rooms here, spaced well enough apart that you don’t feel like you’re going to bed with your neighbour. The spacious rooms come with a king-size bed and pillow menu, and have either street-side balconies or garden outlooks. Sweeping views over the barrio can be had from the outdoor Nordic-style jacuzzis, or take the muscle-melting bliss indoors with an in-room massage.

El Salvador 5726, y Bonpland (4776 8667/www.ilumhotel.com). Bus 39, 57, 93, 111. Rates $$. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H2. D

Fierro Hotel Fierro Hotel has all the amenities you’d expect from a five-star hotel (with the same mattresses as BA’s Hyatt to prove it) yet still retains its intimate boutique feel. The red and black rooms are spacious and all have balconies and original art on the walls. Because it’s cool and because it’s Palermo Hollywood, rooms are kitted out with iPod docks and suite guests have iPads at their disposal. But for something really special, book the one and only terrace suite with its own private parrilla and outdoor jacuzzi. The roof-terrace pool is small but sweet, complete with hydro-massage beds, yet the highlight is the lovely garden surrounded by palm trees – a perfect spot for a pre-dinner cocktail (and there are good’uns, including Pimm’s) before dining at star chef Hernán Gipponi’s restaurant (see p46) on the ground floor.

Soler 5862, entre Ravignani y Carranza (3220 6800/www.fierrohotel. com). Subte D, Carranza/bus 12, 39, 57, 60, 67, 93, 95, 111, 152, 161, 194. Rates $$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H3. D

Infinito Purple Haze might have been a better name for this hotel located near the Botanical Gardens: the lamps, doors, corridor wallpaper and even the yarn bombing on the trees outside follow the colour scheme. Ecologically friendly is the second pervading theme; the roof is fitted with solar panels, the floors are made with FSC wood and the hotel follows many energy conserving policies. The design of the rooms is minimal and modern rather than hippie, with plenty of white and touches of purple. Artwork is cleverly integrated into the headboards, which are splashed with images relating to Argentina (think salt flats in the north, or the blue and white flag). Breakfast is served in the lobby area, where floor-to-ceiling windows and potted fig trees create a pleasant space.

Meanwhile, up on the roof terrace, a jacuzzi and sauna provide relief to tired, post-sightseeing bones.

Arenales 3689, y Aráoz (4832 1060/ www.infinitohotel.com). Bus 10, 12, 15, 29, 110, 118, 141.Rates $$. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map F4. D

!L’Hôtel Palermo L’Hôtel is a little slice of Provence in the heart of Palermo. Weeping willows drape over cobbled pathways, restored antique furniture could be straight out of a grand château and the roof bar’s cushy daybeds are the stuff of Côte D’Azur fantasies. Then there’s the ‘secret garden’ – a secluded oasis with a small but perfectly formed swimming pool, manicured lawn, shady trees, conservatory and high, ivy-covered walls. If you’re hiding from the paparazzi, this is the place to do it – they’d never suspect you were just one block from perpetually buzzing Plaza Serrano. L’Hôtel’s 23 suites – the best with garden views and jacuzzis – are spaced across two buildings, and despite the proximity to BA’s nightlife hub, deliver a surprisingly silent night.

The hotel’s concierge can plan your entire BA-and-beyond itinerary, and on Sundays, there is a hearty brunch that is available to non-guests too.

Thames 1562, entre Honduras y Pasaje Soria (4831 7198/www. lhotelpalermo.com). Bus 34, 39, 140.

Rates $$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2. D

New in town The 5th Floor

Nestled in the heart of Villa Freud, a leafy residential area in Palermo famous for its high percentage of psychoanalysts, The 5th Floor is an art deco-lover’s dream. The boutique bed and breakfast has five bedrooms spread over the fifth and sixth floors of what was formerly a 1940s petit hotel. A gorgeous marble staircase and an airy Andalusian terrace with hanging plants add to the stlyish and serene atmosphere. British and Argentinian owners Miles and Veronica ensure that their guests are well looked after (including the option of a proper English breakfast with sausage and eggs) and have helpful tips on navigating the city. Check the hotel’s Facebook page to find out what’s cooking at the monthly puerta cerrada restaurant. Vidt y Avenida Santa Fe (address provided when you reserve), Palermo. (4827 0366/www. www.the5thfloorba.com) Subte D, Bulnes/bus 12, 39. Rates $$ double. No credit cards. Map F4.

Hotels

comes to stay and guests can enjoy wine tastings on Thursday evenings.

The hotel’s contemporary restaurant and excellent location close to Palermo Soho’s bars and boutiques crank up the appeal even more.

Guatemala 4882, y Thames (4774 0505/www.bobohotel.com). Subte D, Plaza Italia/bus 36, 60, 152. Rates $$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3.

Cabrera Garden Boutique Guesthouse Cabrera Garden is the holiday home you wish you had, and hosts Norman and Robert the wonderful friends you wish you had looking after it. There are just three guest bedrooms in their impeccably restored 1920s house, and they fill up – fast. The Santa Rita suite, with a separate living area and balcony, is the pick of the bunch. It has a staircase leading down to the garden, where gigantic potted plants, a banana tree, a swimming pool and a pet parrot create the perfect tropical paradise.

Delicious home-cooked breakfasts are served up with love, and the attentive hosts offer a complete concierge service at no extra charge.

Cabrera 5855, y Ravignani (4777 7668/www.cabreragarden.com). Bus

156 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014

Miravida Soho With original features and plenty of old-fashioned charm, this six-room converted house has character, as well as all the modern conveniences. All the rooms are bright and breezy, with high ceilings and private balconies, and Miravida stands out from other boutique hotels in featuring a very handsomely stocked wine bar and cellar. Just in case you should happen to overdo it on the grape juice of an evening, soak up the hangover with a proper fry-up the following morning.

Darregueyra 2050, y Soler (4774 6433/www.miravidasoho.com). Bus 34, 36, 39, 55, 108, 111. Rates $$ double.

Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3. D Own Palermo Hollywood For travellers who have always wanted their own master suite with a private balcony, look no further than Own. A stay here feels like attentive, stylish

friends have lent you their hip hangout, one that conveniently includes flat-screen TVs, DVD and CD players, and a handy set of notes on local attractions. The location couldn’t be better, with plenty of shopping, dining and drinking options within a matter of blocks. For those who prefer to stay in, an intimate ground floor lounge hosts nightly drinks.

Cabrera 5556, y Humboldt (4772 8100/www.ownhotels.com). Bus 21, 93, 111. Rates $$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2. D Palermitano As slick and stylish as it is well run and friendly, Palermitano marks itself out from the pack with lavish details like marble bathrooms in each of its 16 rooms. And there’s something satisfyingly egalitarian in the fact that the only major difference between the two suites and the rest of the rooms is size – everything else remains exactly the same. Don’t miss the chance to chill by the lovely rooftop pool overlooking Palermo Soho or to dine at the restaurant, the second branch of the downtown Peruvian fusion restaurant Sipan (see p55), complete with a patio for outdoor dining.

Uriarte 1648, entre Honduras y El Salvador (4897 2100/www. palermitano.biz). Bus 34, 39, 55, 140, 151. Rates $$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3. D

Gorriti 5374, y Godoy Cruz (4831 4471/www.prodeohotel.com). Bus 34, 39, 55, 140, 168. Rates $$ double.

Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H2. D Ultra Hotel With a large, well-planned ground floor that lets hotel guests and visitors circulate through its eclectic spaces and come full circle, Ultra has a level of design savvy other boutique hotels would kill for. Shift harmoniously between the trendy lobby, the dark wood and leather of the library lounge, and a bright, shabby-chic conservatory-style restaurant. Spacious rooms, exceptionally friendly and helpful staff and a rooftop terrace with a pool are just the cherry on the cake.

Gorriti 4929, y Gurruchaga (4833 9200/www.hotelultra.com). Bus 15, 34, 39, 55, 110, 140, 141, 151, 168.

Rates $$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2.D

Vain The friendly folk at Vain believe there’s nothing narcissistic about pampering yourself once in a while. When you check in to this tranquil 15-room boutique hotel located a short stroll away from Plaza Italia, you’re offered a complimentary drink, and if this isn’t enough to de-stress, the Senior rooms are equipped with hydromassage tubs.

Since you’re indulging in deadly sins, add a little gluttony to the list: don’t miss the delicious breakfast, which should set you up a Palermo Place treat for a day of You’ll find plenty of strolling in the space and tranquillity Cocktail Hour at this boutique hotel on Treat yourself to a winter surrounding area.

Thames 2226, y a pretty, tree-lined tipple in The Library street. The 26 plush, Lounge (see p74) at the Paraguay (4776 8246/ www.vainuniverse.com). modern rooms come luxurious Faena Hotel Subte D, Plaza Italia/bus with kitchenettes and (see p152).

10, 12, 15, 29, 39, 55, French balconies from 60, 64, 68, 93, 95, 166, 188, where you can take in 194. Rates $$ double. Credit expansive views over the low-rise neighbourhood. Prepare your own AmEx, MC, V. Map G3. D breakfast with the basket of fruit and alfajores that greets visitors on arrival, Vitrum Hotel or pay a bit more and receive coupons This Palermo hotel is instantly for one of four excellent local cafés. A recognisable from the street thanks to small gym, coin-operated laundry and the colourful patchwork tiles on its rooftop terrace with parrilla are all the façade; inside, design trends, amenities you need for that live-like-aup-to-the-minute technology and local experience. avant-garde art spice things up further.

Nicaragua 5865, entre Carranza y Vitrium recently upped its room and Ravignani (3220 9600/www. suite count, including a two-storey loft palermoplace.com). Subte D, Carranza/ with psychedelic-chic wallpaper and bus 39, 108, 111. Rates $$ double. calming studios with azure accents and Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H3. D colourful glass tiled bathrooms. There’s a stylish sushi restaurant on site and Prodeo Hotel + Lounge an art gallery that leads to a lush, This ten-suite boutique hotel has tranquil garden, but the pièce de already gained a following among résistance is the luxurious, brand new touring international DJs. One look at spa, with a gym, sauna, massage the sleek, low-lit interior with a rooms and steam bath. spangly mirrorball dangling from on Gorriti 5641, entre Fitz Roy y high, and it’s obvious why. The Bonpland (4776 5030/www. sound-insulated suites are masculine vitrumhotel.com). Bus 34, 39, 93, 111, and modern, with private balconies 151, 166. Rates $$ double. Credit and window-side bathtubs. Electronic AmEx, MC, V. Map H2. D chill-out tunes pulse in the downstairs BUDGET bar, where you can loll about on curved leather sofas while sampling fine Abode Buenos Aires Argentinian wines. If you happen to A great option in the value-for-money overindulge, the indoor pool and B&B market, this British-run home in-house yoga classes should set you away from home in the heart of back on the straight and narrow.

Palermo Soho provides all the niceties

TOP TIP!

Hotels Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014 157

Costa Rica 5193, y Godoy Cruz (4774 3331/www.abodebuenosaires. com). Subte D, Palermo/bus 34, 39, 55, 108, 111. Rates $ double. No credit cards. Map G3. D

you’d expect of the chic neighbourhood, but at affordable prices. In four large bedrooms, antique beds, en-suite bathrooms, airconditioning and cable TV come as standard, and the public areas include a huge sun-drenched terrace, lovely to bask in on a warm day. Guests can also enjoy an asado or a proper English breakfast. With native English spoken and local knowledge aplenty, this friendly abode is geared up to ensure you make the most of your stay in Buenos Aires.

Where to soak and sweat PARK HYATT

Faena Hotel Buenos Aires One of the most reputable hotels in the city offers a wide range of treatments. The spa is famous for its natural healing techniques and offers massages and crystal therapy. The jetlag treatment is a sure-fire steal if you have suffered a long haul flight to Argentina.

See p152.

Hotels

Four Seasons Hotel Indulge in a range of invigorating treatments in one of the city’s most luxurious chill-out zones. Try the signature treatment, the Pachamama, a natural salt scrub followed by a deep tissue massage and a spritz of perfumed arrayán and green tea lotion.

See p152.

Home Hotel Spa Here you can find a range of therapies. A popular option is the full spa day package that combines an authentic Indian massage with a thick body and facial scrub, topped off with a delicious organic meal.

See p154.

Park Hyatt Buenos Aires The hotel boasts a 25m pool along with spa suites, individual treatment rooms and a hydrotherapy salon.

This place will leave you in the clouds, more so if you opt for one of the renowned massages and the detoxifying mud therapy programme.

See p152.

Bernarda House At this charming little B&B, six rooms are spread over three floors on a tree-lined Palermo Soho street. The converted house’s hardwood floors, exposed bricks and vintage furniture add to its appeal, as do the works of art, painted by the owner. Soak in the antique claw-foot tub or take a relaxing dip in the pool. The owner also offers guests private, tailor-made city tours.

Uriarte 1942, entre Soler y Nicaragua, (mobile 15 3227 1111). Subte D, Plaza Italia/bus 34, 36, 39, 108. Rates $ double. No credit cards. Map G3.D Hotel Costa Rica Nestled in a quiet area of Palermo but close enough to the buzz, Hotel Costa Rica offers a bargain to be smug about.

Originally two houses, the hotel retains a homely feel and jigsaw layout, and the staff are among the friendliest we’ve found. They’ll be on-hand to offer local advice as you enjoy a coffee or glass of vino tinto at the lobby-cum-lounge’s elegant but understated bar, in what would once have been the reception room of this beautiful house. Cosy and comfortable rooms have been recently renovated and the small but perfectly formed communal areas – such as the inviting upstairs terrace – play host to those memorable story-swapping encounters normally found in a more laid-back, hostel-like environment.

Costa Rica 4137/39, entre Gascón y Acuña de Figueroa (4864 7390/ www.hotelcostarica.com.ar). Subte D, Scalabrini Ortiz/bus 15, 57, 110.

Rates $ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map F3. D Livian Guesthouse Livian came to be when owner and ex-gymnast Lisandra began to invite friends to stay in her extensive family home. Nowadays you might not be a friend when you arrive, but you’ll certainly feel like one when you leave.

The guesthouse is pitched somewhere between hotel and hostel, and its private rooms are complemented by inviting communal areas and a lovely garden where guests can mingle. The rooms are pretty too, each with its own theme and decorated with antique trinkets and artwork.

Palestina 1184, entre Avenida Córdoba y Cabrera (4862 8841/www. livianguesthouse.com). Bus 19, 26, 151, 160, 168. Rates $ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map F2. D

Las Cañitas MODERATE

248 Finisterra Although it’s just a stone’s throw away from the buzzing bars, cafés and shops that draw so many to Las Cañitas, 248 Finisterra is more of a warm refuge from the hustle and bustle. From the contemporary decor – which is offset

158 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014

by a sensible smattering of antique objects – to the serene garden and rooftop hardwood deck complete with a hot tub, Las Cañitas cool infuses this smart boutique hotel. If you do wish to take advantage of the upmarket night scene, then you’re in just the right spot.

Báez 248, entre Arguibel y Arévalo (4773 0901/www.248finisterra.com).

Bus 10, 15, 29, 39. Rates $$ double.

Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H4. D

Almagro and Villa Crespo MODERATE

Querido B&B This stylish bed and breakfast, just minutes away from Palermo, is run by an Anglo-Brazilian couple who have managed to create a modern but homely lodging. Although it’s been beautifully renovated, the building still retains some original features. Each of the seven double rooms has an en-suite bathroom, a flat-screen TV and a balcony, and a basket of baked goods awaits you for breakfast each morning. The owners are experienced travellers, and the cosy living area contains various books to read outside on the lovely patio.

Juan Ramírez de Velasco 934, entre Thames y Serrano, Villa Crespo (4854 6297/www.queridobuenosaires.com).

Subte B, Malabia/bus 15, 55. Rates $$ double. Credit MC, V. Map G1. D Racó de Buenos Aires ‘Off the beaten track’ is frequently a euphemism for tricky to get to, but this intimate hotel is tucked conveniently close to the Subte and bus stops on busy Avenida Rivadavia. Named after the Catalan word for ‘corner’ in homage to owner Julián’s time in Barcelona, and filled with great artwork by local artists, Racó is located in Almagro, home to the charming, old-school Las Violetas café (see p26) and pleasant residential streets with restaurants populated more by locals than by tourists. The hotel’s 12 comfortable rooms are all decorated in contrasting styles – a deluxe room, for example, recreates the aesthetic of La Boca’s iconic, colourful buildings.

Yapeyú 271, y Hipólito Yrigoyen, Almagro (3530 6075/www. racodebuenosaires.com.ar). Subte A, Castro Barros/bus 5, 128, 132, 151.

Rates $$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map E1. D BUDGET

Pop Hotel Neighbourhoods like Palermo are littered with pricey boutique hotels, but Pop Hotel brings something different to the genre. Located in the up-and-coming ‘outlet zone’ of Villa Crespo, this is BA’s first ‘budget boutique’ hotel. Pop, with its psychedelic wall patterns and Roy Lichtenstein-inspired reception, is an ode to pop art, and manages to offer comfort with a bright splash of style, for less. All 44 rooms have plasma TVs, iPod docks and kitchenettes, while the deluxe and master suites have balconies.

Breakfast vouchers for a rather

nondescript café across the road can be bought at reception for US$13.

Juan Ramírez de Velasco 793, y Gurruchaga, Villa Crespo (4776 6900/ www.pophotelsbuenosaires.com). Subte B, Malabia/bus 15, 55, 168. Rates $ double. Credit MC, V. Map G1. D

San Isidro HIGH-END

Hotel del Casco San Isidro is an irresistibly quaint neighbourhood that has been a popular short excursion from BA’s bustle since the 18th century. It has been more attractive than ever since this 19th-century house was converted into a hotel. With its whitewashed porticoes, wrought-iron lanterns and interior glass-ceilinged patio, the place is charming and old-fashioned. But it doesn’t lack modern amenities, such as a business centre, health club and pool.

Avenida del Libertador 16170 (4732 3993/www.hoteldelcasco.com.ar). Train to San Isidro from Retiro. Rates $$$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. D

Apart-hotels

Better equipped than an ordinary hotel room, but requiring less commitment than renting a property, BA’s apart-hotels combine the advantages of self-catering with the convenience of hotel services.

THE CENTRE

Livin’ Residence Livin’ Residence’s apartments, close to Recoleta and Microcentro, range from studios for lone travellers to twobedroom options that are ideal for families or groups. Every apartment comes with a kitchen and a balcony.

There’s also a gym, jacuzzi and a rooftop area with a parrilla.

Ground floor,Viamonte 1815, entre Avenida Callao y Riobamba, Balvanera (5258 0300/www.livinresidence.com).

Subte D, Callao/bus 12, 23, 29, 60, 75, 111, 140. Rates $ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D4. D Loft y Arte A ‘boutique apartment hotel’ is the way Loft y Arte bills itself. The modern lofts and apartments in this 120-yearold building are almost all twice the size of the average hotel room. An artful restoration some years ago added marble stairwells, Italian porcelain and a sculpture garden with working fountains. Ask about weekly and monthly rates.

Hipólito Yrigoyen 1194, entre Lima y Salta, Monserrat (4115 1770/ www. loftyarte.com.ar). Subte A, Lima/ bus 39, 59, 67, 98. Rates $ double.

Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map C4. D LA BOCA

Patios de La Boca This corner of La Boca is one of the city’s less salubrious areas – keep your wits about you in the surrounding streets, especially if Boca Juniors football team is playing at home – but it’s full of local character. With its airy

outdoor spaces and bright interior colour schemes, Patios de la Boca comprises ten self-contained apartments plus a communal garden and a terrace. There’s a three-night minimum stay here, but if you’re sticking around, ask about the excellent rates for renting by the month.

Wenceslao Villafañe 452, entre Almirante Brown y Martín Rodríguez (4802 9427/www.patiosdelabocaenglish. blogspot.com). Bus 29, 130, 152.

Rates $ double. No credit cards.

Map B2. D SAN TELMO

Casa & Mundo Bolivar Snap up a hip studio or two-storey loft apartment inside this century-old manor in the heart of the city’s most romantic neighbourhood. There are 14 fully-equipped apartments and each has its own unique character: lounge beneath chandeliers and a ceiling fresco in the spacious Baroque loft, or chill in the Oriental studio complete with Asian decorative touches. Leafy internal patios, an on-site café and occasional live music offer a chance to mingle with fellow guests. The friendly Danish owner is always on hand to ensure everything runs as smoothly as a freshly laid bed sheet.

Bolívar 1701, y Dr Enrique Finochietto, (4300 3619/www.casabolivar.com). Bus 10, 24, 39. Rates $ double. Credit V. Map A3. D RECOLETA

Poetry Building Once a crumbling Recoleta mansion, the Poetry Building has been given a stunning new lease of life as an aparthotel. Spacious lofts, studios and a roof terrace with dipping pool provide an oasis of tranquillity amid the BA pandemonium. Guests are kitted out with everything a local might need: information on the city and a local mobile phone. Those not looking to leave their room are also well taken care of: each apartment comes with a flat-screen TV, DVD player and iPod.

PALERMO

Hollywood Suites & Lofts This high-rise, upscale apart-hotel features a range of large bi-level lofts with concrete floors, leather furniture, black-out curtains, fully equipped kitchens and balconies overlooking the Río de la Plata. The communal spaces, including a rooftop pool with glassed-in terrace, are modern and inviting, and the ambience is cool and discreet with a business-like mood that’s nicely warmed up by charming details like delicious cakes on the breakfast tray.

Nicaragua 5490, y Humboldt (5276 6100/www.hollywoodsuitesba.com.ar).

Bus 39, 108, 111. Rates $$$ double.

Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3. D Palermo Tower This sleek apart-hotel creates a sense of calm the moment you check in. It might be the fresh coffee in the lobby or the soothing chocolate and cream colour scheme, but the warm staff welcome certainly plays a part. All 23 rooms are spacious, with a living area and kitchenette. Most have balconies overlooking the leafy residential street, but for the best views, head to the rooftop pool. A washer-dryer and gym make longer stays more convenient.

Charcas 4955, entre Avenida Juan B Justo y Humboldt (3220 1100/www. palermotower.com). Subte D, Palermo/ bus 10, 12, 15, 29. Rates $$$ double.

Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H3. D

Hostels CENTRE

!Terrazas Estoril Attentive staff and a prime position on the top floor of a restored, century-old building make this one of the best hostels in BA. The Argentinian owners have thought of it all: bright and airy dorms, quality mattresses, big spotless bathrooms, breakfasts worth waking up for and a travel desk to make sure you hit the ground running. This isn’t a party hostel (go to Milhouse for that), but an excellent place to connect with like-minded travellers in the inviting lounge, well-stocked bar or at weekly rooftop asados against the backdrop of the Divine Comedy-inspired Palacio Barolo building. Frequent protests on Avenida de Mayo may disturb your morning slumber, but it’s all part of living in the heart of the city.

6th floor, Avenida de Mayo 1386, entre Uruguay y Talcahuano, Congreso (4372 5494/www.hostelestoril.com.ar).

Subte A, Sáenz Peña/bus 5, 8, 24, 39.

Rates US$18 per person per dorm. No credit cards. Map C4. D

Hotels

Art Suites Situated on a quiet Recoleta block, Art Suites is a refuge for those who prefer spacious apartments to hotel rooms.

There’s no sterile lobby with stiff couches and piped-in music; just a round-the-clock doorman and a lift to whisk guests to huge suites fitted with whirlpool baths and soundproof glass doors opening on to private terraces.

Premium apartments, each containing two bedrooms and two bathrooms, can comfortably accommodate five people in style. As far as service is concerned, these discreet lodgings offer the best of both worlds, so that guests might forget they’re in a hotel until the doorbell rings in the morning, and a tray piled high with medialunas and coffee arrives on their dining room table. Excellent for long-term stays.

Azcuénaga 1465, entre French y Juncal (4821 6800/www.artsuites.com.ar).

Subte D, Pueyrredón/bus 39, 59, 60, 61, 62, 64, 68, 110, 111, 152, 194.

Rates $$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map E4. D

Junín 1280, entre Arenales y Juncal.

(4827 2772/www.poetrybuilding.com).

Bus 39, 60, 93, 111. Rates $$ double.

Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map E4. D

SAN TELMO & SOUTH OF THE CENTRE

America del Sur Backpackers who are accustomed to hostels that are falling apart at the seams will find bright, clean and modern America del Sur Hostel a breath of fresh air. This is one of the Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014 159

Eco Pampa Palermo If the idea of staying in the heart of Buenos Aires’s trendiest barrio isn’t enough to sway you, maybe the thought of staying in the city’s first eco-friendly hostel will. This tastefully renovated building possesses an artistically-designed yet minimalist interior, which is furnished with energy-efficient chandeliers, refurbished wood benches and a bar selling cocktails and mixers. If you venture out to the rooftop terrace you’ll also see a small organic herb garden.

Guatemala 4778, y Gurruchaga (4831 2435/www.hostelpampa.com.ar). Subte D, Plaza Italia/bus 15, 29, 34, 39, 111, 141, 160. Rates US$15 per person dorm; US$80 double with private bathroom. Credit MC, V. Map G3.

ABASTO

Vitrum Hotel (see p157).

Hotels

city’s most pleasant hostels, with dorms and double rooms decorated in cheerful primary colours. Excellent disabled access throughout plus a room specially designed for wheelchair users wins it a double thumbs up from us.

Backpackers heading south can run into America del Sur again at its Calafate hostel.

Chacabuco 718, entre Avenida Independencia y Chile, San Telmo (4300 5525/www.americahostel.com. ar). Subte E, Independencia/bus 10, 17, 22, 100, 111, 195. Rates US$15 per person dorm; US$70 double. Credit MC, V. Map B4. D Circus ‘Boutique hostel’ might sound like an oxymoron, but this tastefully renovated building includes the kind of amenities normally reserved for hotels, while a friendly staff maintains a welcoming hostel vibe. Along with air-conditioning and en-suite bathrooms in every room, the hostel has an in-house restaurant and a cosy lounge area. It also boasts a heated outdoor pool, making this backpacker oasis a sure bet for a relaxing stay.

Chacabuco 1020, entre Carlos Calvo y Humberto 1º, San Telmo (4300 4983/ www.hostelcircus.com). Subte C, San Juan/bus 10, 29. Rates US$14 per person dorm; US$80 double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map B4. D Milhouse Conveniently located between San Telmo and Microcentro, this threetiered 1890 house was built from materials shipped over from Europe.

Nowadays, it’s the city’s liveliest and most popular hostel, so be sure to book well in advance. Always buzzing with a good vibe, Milhouse also offers tango classes and tours.

Hipólito Yrigoyen 959, entre Tacuarí y Bernardo de Irigoyen, Monserrat (4345 9604/www.milhousehostel.com).

Subte C, Avenida de Mayo/bus 2, 5, 7,

8, 9, 17, 24, 100, 111. Rates US$17 per person dorm; US$100 double.

Credit MC, V. Map C4. D Other location Milhouse Avenue, Avenida de Mayo 1245, Congreso (4383 9383).

Ostinatto Hostel Clean, minimalist design has been successfully integrated into this ‘boutique hostel’, housed in a lovely early 20th-century building. With six interweaving staircases, at first sight the interior resembles an Escher sketch, but it’s one that comes with an in-house art gallery, a microcinema and piano bar. There’s also a private apartment on the penthouse floor, in case the urge to splurge on a lavish room should take hold.

Chile 680, y Chacabuco, San Telmo (4362 9639/www.ostinatto.com). Subte E, Belgrano/bus 2, 9, 10. Rates US$13 per person dorm; US$45 double. No credit cards. Map B4. D PALERMO

Back in BA A cosy little place on a quiet street in the heart of Palermo Soho, Back in BA has nine comfortable rooms, a renovated kitchen and a TV room. A central patio hosts regular outdoor asados, and the friendly bilingual staff, available at all hours, can help to arrange trips, tours and classes of all descriptions. Storage lockers have sockets inside so that guests can discreetly recharge any of their valuable electronic gadgets. Breakfast is included in the rate, and the friendly British owner is on hand most days of the week if you have any questions and to keep everything running as smooth as clockwork.

El Salvador 5115, y Uriarte (4774 2859/www.backinba.com). Bus 28, 29, 39, 45, 50, 56, 57, 93, 100, 103, 105, 111, 126, 129, 146. Rates US$13 per person dorm; US$60 double. No credit cards. Map G3. D

160 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014

Chill House Housed in a charming 1907 dwelling, Chill House has a sociable atmosphere and comfortable shared and private rooms. The cosy Chill Room and weekly asados held on the rooftop terrace provide the perfect opportunity to meet other guests. There is a clean, communal kitchen, and the friendly staff are on hand to help you make the most of your time in BA. Agüero 781, y Tucumán (4861 6175/ www.chillhouse.com.ar). Subte B, Carlos Gardel/bus 24, 26, 71, 92, 99, 146, 180, 188. Rates US$11 per person dorm; US$47 double. No credit cards. Map E3. D

Telos

Telos (from the porteño backslang for hotel) are establishments offering rooms for rent by turns (turnos) for romantic encounters. This Argentinean tradition is popular with local residents looking to spice up their love lives and is recommendable if you want to get a glimpse as to what all the fuss is about.

While their decor is often tacky, they’re generally clean and discreet – huge efforts are made to conceal the entrances at the end of hidden driveways.

Combining sauciness and sophistication, Dissors (Colectora de Avenida General Paz 900, Ciudadela, 4653 0314, www. dissorshotel.com.ar) is a great five-star option. More expensive suites feature jacuzzis and outdoor pools; rates are US$70-$110 for a turno, which is four hours before 5pm and three after. BA’s most famous love hotel, the kitsch Los Jardines de Babilonia (Ruta Panamericana entre Alvear y Boulogne Sur Mer, Don Torcuato, 4727 0270, www.hoteljardines.com.ar) has lured many a porteño out of town for some raunchy role play. The ‘Trajano’ room, with a sunken bath surrounded by fluted columns, is ideal for emperors and slaves. Rates range from US$35 to US$90 for a three-hour turno. JJ Hotel (Avenida del Libertador 7900, 4701 4800, www.hoteljj.com.ar) in Núñez has been satisfying guests for over 35 years.

They’re attracted by the property’s tastefully decorated rooms – US$70$120 for a three-hour turno – and discreet, private parking with direct

access to your den of iniquity. Palermo’s Rampa Car (Carranza 1347, 4773 6964, www.hotelrampacar.com.ar) also provides easy access: the almost en-suite garages mean you can drive right up and get down to it. Choose from several themed rooms, costing from US$30 to US$50 for a three-hour turno. For a list of telos in BA, www.alberguesonline. com.ar lets you search by location, price and in-room extras.

Hotels index 1555 Malabia House 248 Finisterra The 5th Floor Abode Buenos Aires Algodon Mansion Alvear Art Hotel Alvear Palace Hotel América del Sur Art Suites Atempo Back in BA BA Sohotel Bernarda House Bo Bo Hotel Cabrera Garden Casa & Mundo Bolivar Casa Calma Castelar Hotel & Spa La Cayetana Historic House Chill House Circus Design Suites & Towers Dissors Eco Pampa Palermo Esplendor de Buenos Aires Faena Hotel Buenos Aires Fierro Hotel Four Seasons Hotel The Glu Hotel Gran Hotel Hispano Hollywood Suites & Lofts Home Hotel Hotel Babel Hotel del Casco Hotel Costa Rica Hotel Madero L’Hôtel Palermo Hub Porteño Ilum Infinito Los Jardines de Babilonia JJ Hotel Krista Hotel Boutique Legado Mítico Livian Guesthouse Livin’ Residence Loft y Arte Mansión Vitraux Marriott Plaza Hotel Milhouse Mine Hotel Boutique Mio Buenos Aires Miravida Soho Monserrat Apart Hotel Moreno Hotel Nuss Ostinatto Hostel Own Palermo Hollywood Palermitano Palermo Place Palermo Tower Park Hyatt Buenos Aires Patios de La Boca Patios de San Telmo Poetry Building Pop Hotel Posada Gotan Prodeo Hotel + Lounge Querido B&B Racó de Buenos Aires Rampa Car Rooney’s Boutique Hotel San Telmo Luxury Suites Terrazas Estoril Ultra Hotel Vain Vitrum Hotel

154 158 156 157 152 148 152 159 159 154 160 154 158 154 156 159 148 148 150 160 160 154 160 160 150 152 156 152 156 148 159 154 150 158 158 152 156 152 156 156 160 160 156 154 158 158 158 150 148 160 154 154 156 150 150 156 160 156 157 157 159 152 158 150 159 158 150 157 158 158 160 148 150 159 157 157 157

Getting away

Photograph: Ali Cherkis

Salta

162

Day trips

165

Estancias

166

Getting Away

The salteña life In Argentina’s gorgeous northern province of Salta, Sorrel Moseley-Williams explores the best places to eat, drink and sleep.

F

rom spectacular salt flats atop the Andes to cacti-heavy landscapes, impeccable colonial town halls and white adobe churches, a rich Inca history and an arid desert that miraculously produces world-class wine at an impressive altitude, the northwestern province of Salta is certainly full of juxtapositions.

While European heritage is evident around the eponymous provincial capital city, step slightly further afield and unearth an indigenous heritage that believes in Pachamama and a passion for folk music – the true pulse of La Linda (the beautiful), the province’s nickname, is beating strongly.

Salta is as far removed, physically and culturally, from Buenos Aires as can be, and a few days there might not be sufficient to grasp this north-western province. Oenophiles should head south to the town of Cafayate in the Calchaquí Valley, Salta’s wine-producing region that is home to the world’s highest vineyards and luxury boutique hotels, while thrill-seekers should make a beeline west to the barren La Puna.

At every twist in the road, an exciting and unexplored landscape lies ahead. Turn up a dirt track to find picture-perfect red bell peppers slowly baking in dusty fields in the sun. Another bend, llamas and guanacos graze in their natural

162 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014

habitat. Yet another, and the rock formations at Quebrada de las Conchas are as close to being another planet on Earth as it gets.

Mountain high, valley low, where Incan, European and indigenous cultures meet, Salta is every bit as beautiful as they say she is.

Salta city The city’s central focal point Plaza 9 de Julio houses much of the cultural action in downtown Salta. Home to the fantastic MAAM museum of high mountain archaeology (Incan mummy-gazing has never been so riveting), the neo-classical Basílica

cathedral, the MAC contemporary art museum and the whitewashed Cabildo (town hall), the square gives an indicative insight into the city.

EAT AND DRINK Doña Salta For high volume, decent prices and friendly service visit this family-run joint. Doña Salta serves up some of the finest regional classics such as corn-based humita, hearty locro and tamales. Some may view it as a tourist trap, but the restaurant is bustling at the best of times. Be sure to try the lovely lamb stew; those on the hop should grab some beef empanadas.

Córdoba 46, 0387 432 1921

GEORGIA GRAY

The Basílica Menor y Convento de San Francisco is one of Salta’s most beautiful landmarks.

José Balcarce Traditional Andean ingredients meet high-end culinary techniques at José Balcarce, now an established offering on the Salta dining scene thanks to chef Lalo Angelina’s innovations. Think llama carpaccio, organic vegetables and fresh herbs from the Andean valleys, accompanied by local wines with altitude. High Andean cuisine indeed.

Necochea 594, 0387 421 1628, www.josebalcarce.com.ar

Bloomers This self-titled ‘bed and brunch’ accommodation combines simplicity with style a stone’s throw from the main square. Five well-appointed en-suite bedrooms offer all the mod cons such as flat-screen TVs, while guests can make full use of the sun terrace and parrilla.

Vicente López 129, 0387 422 7499, www.bloomers-salta.com.ar GETTING THERE AND AROUND Flights with Aerolíneas Argentinas and LAN take two hours between Buenos Aires and Salta, while long-distance bus lines such as El Rápido, La Veloz del Norte, Flecha Bus and Balut take between 18 and 22 hours depending on the service.

El Aybal airport is six miles south of Salta. For a different trip on horseback, contact British-run MacDermott’s Argentina, which has been running riding holidays across the north-west for the past decade (www.macdermottsargentina.com).

La Casona del Molino For a fairly authentic food and folklore experience head to La Casona, which deals in steaks and live music most nights of the week.

Get up close and personal with musicians playing the various rooms in the ‘big house’ while watching the salteños shake some booty.

Luis Burela 1, 0387 434 2835 El Charrua Restaurante Parrilla Besides offering the usual northwestern culinary suspects, family-run El Charrua steakhouse holds a strong hand in meat. Fill up on the slow-cooked, oven-baked kid or the pork ribs. Prices are reasonable.

Caseros 221, 0387 432 1859, www.parrillaelcharrua.com.ar

The library at Legado Mítico.

ED STOCKER

Café del Tiempo For an early evening drink, a quick lunch or a night of fine dining, Café del Tiempo ticks all the right boxes.

It’s a beautifully appointed restaurant with chequerboard flooring, wooden furniture and a dashing, central bar. An excellently crisp Amalaya torrontés and empanadas accompanied by a creamy, spicy sauce are excellent options, as are the house salad and delicious home-made sorrentinos and raviolis.

Güemes 204, 0387 432 0888

Cafayate

La Bohème Once the various corn-based dishes wear thin, head to the other side of the culinary spectrum for some oven-cooked, thin-crust pizza with a touch of je ne sais quoi. This Franco-Argentinian joint has a short yet interesting menu that also includes Breton crêpes: Time Out loves the chilli and chorizo-topped pizza, best served with a litre of ice-cold Salta lager.

San Martín 339, 0387 421 8582

EAT AND DRINK Well known as local wine producers but relatively new to the food scene, Piattelli Winery (Ruta 2, on the way to Yacochuya, 03868 15 405 881, www.piattellivineyards.com) threw open its restaurant doors in 2013.

Expect a steak-heavy menu best accompanied by a spicy house cabernet sauvignon, and a mountain view; weekends see the grills fire up.

In the heart of town overlooking the main square, El Rancho (Vicario Toscano 4, 03868 421 256, www. elranchocafayate.com.ar) is rather more rustic, serving up local delights such as tamales, humitas and baked rabbit. Also a great spot to catch some live folk music.

Salta province is home to many arid landscapes.

STAY THE NIGHT To dive head first into Salta wine country, make Patios de Cafayate Wine Hotel (Ruta Nacional 40 and Ruta Nacional 68, 03868 422 229, www.patiosdecafayate.com) your first port of call. Those with grape

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Getting Away

STAY THE NIGHT Legado Mítico Comforts know no limits at this family-run boutique hotel, sister property to the much-loved Palermo Soho classic (see p154). From a cosy living room to a welcoming glass of wine come early evening, the emphasis is on tailored and unique. Each room is named after a local Salta hero; Time Out loves La Escritora, a tribute to the 19th century poet and warrioress Juana Manuela Gorriti.

Bartolomé Mitre 647, 0387 422 8786, www.legadomitico.com

If you associate Argentinian wine country with expansive vineyards overlooked by the Andes as per Mendoza, think again. In Salta, bodegas are found atop the mountains, and often in the most inconvenient of locations. Cafayate is home to some of the highest altitude wineries in the world, such as boutique offering San Pedro de Yacochuya, organic Nanni and Domingo Molina, which clings to the hillside and has breathtaking views of the surprisingly lush countryside.

Eno-tourism is yet to peak here, and increasing numbers of wineries are opening their doors to tasters keen to sample the fresh and floral local torrontés white. Don’t forget to check out the essential Museo de la Vid y del Vino wine museum for an immersion in the local scene.

expectations won’t be let down by this colonial masterpiece next door to El Esteco winery; airy rooms combine rustic attitude with the comfiest of beds. Fantastic sunsets turn the overlooking mountain range into a veritable artist’s palette; the best place to watch them is poolside, glass of something delicious in hand. Visitors after an equally luxurious but more escapist experience should head to Grace Salta (Ruta Nacional 40, km 4340, 03868 427 000, www.gracehotels. com/cafayate) a brand-new offering located within the Estancia de Cafayate residential estate. Choose from contemporary rooms or standalone villa suites among the vines. The spa, swimming and whirlpool are par for the course.

GETTING THERE AND AROUND It’s a four-hour bus journey to Cafayate from the city of Salta, which is 185 kilometres (115 miles) away; book tickets with El Indio (0387 432 0846) in advance. Otherwise it’s a two-hour trip on Ruta 40 in a hire car. Once in town, several wineries such as Nanni and Domingo Hermanos are located close by, so walking or hiring a bike are great transportation options.

Cachi

EAT AND DRINK For a relatively cheap and cheerful refuelling point that specialises in local fare, stop by La Esquina (Bustamante y Zorrilla, 0387 15410 8084) for abundant salads, tamales and humitas on a prime Cachi corner overlooking the central square. For something more glamorous at one of the highest vineyards in the world, it’s worth driving all 70 kilometres (43 miles) from Cachi to Bodega Colomé, located outside Molinos (Ruta Provincial 52, km 20, 03868 494 200, www.bodegacolome.com).

Stop for a wine tasting, relax over a delicious meal on the veranda overlooking the vineyards and finally, head into the breathtaking James Turrell Museum.

STAY THE NIGHT A 17th century grain farm converted into a luxury accommodation among vines awaits at Bodega el Molino (Cachi Adentro, 9 kilometres from Cachi, 0387 491 094, www. bodegaelmolino.com.ar). Expect rustic elegance at the winery’s adobe farmhouse – the windmill still serves the local agricultural community. At La Merced del Alto (Fuerte Alto, 03868 490 030, www. lamerceddelalto.com), an impeccable 2006 constuction that replicates a colonial mansion, there are extensive views across the Cachi valley. Top tip: sink into the outdoor jacuzzi for a relaxing, panorama before retiring to a stylish wood and wrought-iron decorated room.

GETTING THERE AND AROUND Only one bus company, Marcos Rueda, serves Cachi from the city of Salta (0387 421 4447).

La Puna In rural La Puna, vast, semi-desert area that extends across Salta, Jujuy and Catamarca provinces as well as Chile, Bolivia and Peru, be prepared to live four seasons in one day. Its arid, altiplano (flat and high) landscape combines volcanoes – such as Llullaillaco where three Incan mummified children were discovered – that soar to over 6,700 metres in height to pink lakes covered in flamingoes and the famous salt flats, Salinas Grandes.

While the Atacama indigenous people made La Puna their home, this area is not for the faint-hearted and definitely not for those who suffer from altitude sickness. If you are in search of a genuine close-up experience with Pachamama (Earth Mother), head to San Antonio de los Cobres or Tolar Grande, two small communities with basic facilities.

EAT AND DRINK There are few restaurants in La Puna, so the main option is a comedor or dining hall. Try El Puneño de Ricardo Arjona (Calle Los Cóndores) or San Cayetano (25 de mayo s/n, 0387 155 315 734), both in Tolar Grande, for hearty local fare. In the larger San Antonio de los Cobres, Quinoa Real serves up a variety of stews (Belgrano s/n, 0387 461 0701).

STAY THE NIGHT In Tolar Grande, the six-room municipal-run Casa Andina (Belgrano s/n, 0387 422 7389, www.

casaandina.gob.ar) also has a large suite catering for four people. Also consider the rather more simple Refugio Franco Argentino (Los Mineros y Belgrano, 0387 498 3001), a 38-bed hostel also known as AFA Puna, which has two large bedrooms for men and women as well as separate bathrooms and a kitchen. Several families also rent single or double rooms to visitors.

Check the village’s website (www. corazondelapuna.com.ar) for more information.

In San Antonio de los Cobres, there are a few more places to stay: guest houses Belgrano (Belgrano s/n, 0387 4909 025), Inti Huasi (Zavaleta y Avellaneda, 0387 4909 035) and Hotel de las Nubes (Ruta Nacional 51, 0387 4909 059, www. hoteldelasnubes.com). The latter is literally an oasis in the desert, thanks to its ten double rooms, restaurant serving regional, gourmet cuisine, spacious living room with cosy fireplace, TV room and bar.

GETTING THERE AND AROUND Although the distance to the two communities– between 150 and 350 kilometres from Salta city – isn’t that lengthy, roads and dirt tracks are extremely uncompromising. In order to arrive safe and sound it’s best to hire a professional guide such as Federico Norte (Avenida del Libertador 1151, Salta, 0387 436 1844, www.nortetrekking.com) or Fabrizio Ghilardi (Balcarce 998, Salta, 0387 422 8471, www. socompa.com), who can personalise itineraries and take you over the tricky terrain in four-wheel drive vehicles. The Kolla indigenous community also organises annual ascents of the imposing 5,611-metre Montaña Sagrada Macón (www. ascensoalmacon.com.ar).

Getting Away

Located on the edge of the Parque Nacional Los Cardones, this village, founded in the 17th century, attracts visitors seeking an untouched valley and mountain experience.

Overlooked by the impressive, 6,340-metre Nevado de Cachi mountain, Cachi has pre-colonial dwellings, the Museo Pío Pablo Díaz archaeological museum that holds more than 5,000 pre-conquistador

artefacts, and the quintessential colonial church with adobe walls and a cardón roof, named a national historical monument in 1945. Fun fact: Cachi means ‘salt’ in the Quechua language.

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GEORGIA GRAY

Llamas in Salta province.

Day trips

Colonia del Sacramento.

Argentina TIGRE AND THE DELTA

Eat and drink Possibly the best restaurant in the town of Tigre, Il Novo María del Luján (Paseo Victorica 611, 4731

Stay the night Tigre Hostel (Avenida San Martín 190, 4749 4034, www.tigrehostel.com.ar, US$22 dorm, US$70 double), housed in a restored 1860 posada, has highceilinged dorm rooms and doubles. The tree-filled garden is a good spot to relax with an ice-cold beer. For a spot of luxury, a 20-minute boat ride from Tigre, Delta Eco Spa (Río Carapachay, km 6, 5236 0553, www. deltaecospa.com, $$$$ per person, including pick-up and meals) has gym classes, a spa and restaurant.

Getting there and around Bus number 60 leaves from Plaza Constitución in BA and takes up to 1hr 45mins to reach Tigre. By train, it’s a 50-minute trip from Retiro on the Mitre line. The Tren de la Costa (www. trendelacosta.com.ar) runs from Olivos (Maipú station) to Tigre and offers scenic views of the river and wealthy suburban neighbourhoods. To take a trip out on the waterways, sign up for a boat tour or fishing trip, or for those on a budget, lanchas colectivos (public river buses) depart regularly from the boat terminal (Estación Fluvial de Tigre, Mitre 305). If you fancy an upper body workout, then kayaks can be rented from Sculls (Paseo Victorica 614, mobile 15 6812 6535, www.sculls. com.ar), which also offers tours.

Getting Away

RETREAT TO A LUSH WATER WORLD JUST BEYOND THE CITY. Less than an hour by train from central Buenos Aires, the serene riverside town of Tigre is an ideal spot for a long, lazy lunch or a relaxing overnight retreat. It is also a gateway to another world: the massive labyrinth of islands and waterways that form the Paraná River Delta. While porteños descend in droves on weekends, weekdays bring a laid-back atmosphere where you can scan the stalls at the Puerto de Frutos or explore the river by boat.

The upper Delta is a protected UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, and several companies offer guided tours of the island-specked area. At Navegando por el Delta (mobile 15 5805 1506, www.navegandoporeldelta. com.ar), you can take a full-day tour or a night trip on the Bruma, a spacious sailing boat piloted by the genial Chuck Serantes. BA-based tour specialist Tangol (4363 6000, www. tangol.com) also offers Tigre tours, lasting four or eight hours. Urban Biking runs excellent cycling tours to Tigre, whereupon you transfer to kayaks to explore the Delta (4314 2325, www.urbanbiking.com).

9613, www.ilnovomariadellujan.com, $$$$) has a prime riverside spot.

Enjoy the tasty seafood outside on the lovely patio.

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Estancias

SAN ANTONIO DE ARECO

Getting Away

La Horqueta.

For city-dwellers in need of a break, estancias – working ranches that double as retreats – offer everything from horse riding and polo to fishing and gaucho shows. All the estancias recommended here are within a few hours’ drive of Buenos Aires and most offer a día de campo (day excursion) package complete with a hearty asado.

One such day excursion is with Argentina Polo Fields (mobile +54911 6198 2217, www.argentinapolofields.com, from US$160 per person including transport), whose enthusiastic young founder Vito is determined to give the polo experience to everyone, regardless of age and skill.

A day at this scenic estancia includes an authentic asado with wine tasting, a thorough lesson with a focus on riding techniques, as well as a chance to play in a 4-chukka match. If you’re not ready to leave the campo, the estancia boasts luxurious accommodation with en-suite bedrooms, a library and a swimming pool.

For another sleepover option, one of the ritziest estancias around is La Candelaria (Ruta Nacional 205, km 114.5, 02227 494473, www.estanciacandelaria. com, $$ per person or AR$500 día de campo) in Lobos, 115km south-west of BA. Surrounded by 100 hectares of park and forest, the French-style château looks like something out of a fairytale, and offers massages and a gaucho show.

Puesto Viejo Polo Club (Ruta Nacional 6 towards La Plata, in BA 5279 6893, mobile 15 5597 6644, www.puestoviejoestancia.com.ar, $$ per person or US$85 día de campo), 70km from BA, holds daily polo matches, and polo or riding lessons can be tailored to ability. This ranch also has a small infinity pool and rustic-chic rooms, making it a pleasant place to unwind for the night after the day’s activities.

Argentina Polo Day (www. argentinapoloday.com.ar, mobile 15 3108 1025) offers a full-day polo and estancia experience just outside of Pilar, some 45 minutes from the city. You can watch a game of polo while enjoying empanadas and malbec. And though polo is the main draw, the asado lunch is better than most of the offerings at BA’s numerous parrillas. Along with food and drink, the US$175 package includes a lesson geared to all levels, a polo match between the local club members and transfers to and from the city. If you are

feeling slightly more adventurous a Polo Clinic is also offered, where you will learn how to play the dashing sport. Food and accomodation is included in this experience which costs US$380 There’s more riding to be had for beginners and advanced riders at Trip Advisor favourite, Polo Elite (www.polo elite.com, tel 4942 0558) at a peaceful estancia out of the capital. Day and halfday options are available with a half-day excursions starting at US$110 (transfers included). During Autumn and Spring top level matches are put on for visitors.

El Vintén (mobile 15 4972 1888, www.elvinten.com, $$$ per person), 140km north-west of BA, is a lovely guesthouse overlooking the Baradero river. Use of the pool, riding and fishing excursions, as well as delicious meals and wine are part of the all-inclusive package.

Families might want to opt for a weekend at La Horqueta (Ruta Nacional 20 to Ranchos, in BA 4777 0150, www.lahorqueta.com, $ per person or AR$300 día de campo), 1 hour 30 minutes from the capital. Fishing and boating can be had on the nearby lake, while the expansive estancia grounds can be explored on horse or bike.

If you’re looking to put more distance between yourself and the capital, complete relaxation is offered at the elegant La Oriental (JB Justo 420, Junín, mobile 15 5146 5210, www.estancia-laoriental. com, $$ per person), 250km north-west of Buenos Aires. The main house of this working ranch is an opulent affair, decorated with 1900s French furniture, a library, family portraits and a billiard table. Meals made with farm-fresh ingredients are included.

Estancia Monte Viejo (Ruta 215, km 51, Brandsen, 02223 441032, in BA 6607 7668, www.estanciamonteviejo. com.ar, $$ per person or US$80 día de campo) can be found just 78km south of Buenos Aires. Leaving the city doesn’t mean giving up creature comforts; Monte Viejo’s lodgings are equipped with LCD TVs and Nespresso machines, while breakfast includes artisanal pastries.

Plenty of activities keep even the most die-hard urbanite entertained, including riding and tours of the beautiful, sprawling estancia, which has been named a site of historic interest.

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WANDER THE COBBLED STREETS OF A TRADITIONAL TOWN. The quintessential pueblo de campo (country town), San Antonio de Areco makes for a lovely day trip or overnight stay from Buenos Aires, a mere 113km away. It was founded in 1728 around a colonial church, and its attractive cobbled streets and 19th-century buildings are home to artisans’ shops, museums and restaurants. The town is a gaucho hub and residents can often be seen sporting berets (boinas) and billowing trousers with chaps (bombachas de gaucho). Strolling around its pretty, leafy streets, you’re just as likely to pass a cowboy on a horse as a child pedalling a bicycle.

If this quiet town has a high season it’s in early November, when a buzz of rural activities leads up to the spirited gaucho festivities of the annual Día de la Tradición on 10 November.

San Antonio de Areco is ringed by a seemingly limitless expanse of flat, arid pampas. A visit can easily be coupled with a day visit or stay at one of the many surrounding estancias.

Eat and drink The pick of the town’s traditional eateries is La Esquina de Merti (Arellano 147, 02326 456705, $$), located on the town square.

the traffic-hardened Buenos Aires crowd, but in Colonia cars stop for pedestrians, bikes lie about unlocked and golf carts can be hired at the major car rental agencies for pootling about in the old town.

A former Portuguese settlement dating back to 1680, Colonia’s historic quarter is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Inside the walled town’s confines lies Plaza Mayor, a tranquil square lined with colonial houses. In the evening, head to the waterfront and sip maté like the locals. The long coastal road west of town leads to lovely river beaches.

Eat and drink Colonia is full of cafés and restaurants, including several serving steaks, pasta and chivitos (grilled beef sandwiches topped with ham, cheese and egg). Try El Drugstore (Portugal y Vascocellos, 00 598 52 25241, $$$$), a favourite for its tasty tapas and delicious seafood – grab a table in a vintage car outside.

At riverside café Lentas Maravillas (Santa Rita 61, 00 598 52 20636, $$$), Maggie Molnar opens up her pretty garden and living room for guests to enjoy sandwiches and scrumptious chocolate cake while browsing her bookshelves.

Stay the night The most charming digs in the old town can be found at El Capullo (18 de Julio 219, 00 598 452 30135, www.

Stay the night elcapullo.com, $$). Owned by an San Antonio de Areco is an easy day Anglo-American couple, this trip from BA, but the town and its eco-friendly posada boasts an interior surroundings warrant an overnight garden and pool, offers bike rental and stay. Patio de Moreno (Moreno 251, serves a delicious breakfast spread.

02326 455197, www.patiodemoreno.

For a budget stay, try cheery com, $$$) is a charming hotel hostel El Viajero aimed at the wannabe(Washington Barbot gauchos-with-iPhones 164, 00 598 522 2683, market, and has a small www.elviajerocolonia.

Across the pond pool, wine bar and library. com, $, dorm beds from US dollars can be For a gaucho experience, US$17). Or head nine withdrawn from El Ombú (Ruta 31, kilometres out of town Uruguayan ATMs. Cuartel 6, 02326 492080, in to the rustic-chic Casa BA 4737 0436, www.

Los Jazmines (Camino estanciaelombu.com, $$$ del Caño, 00 598 4520 2799, per person or US$100 for day www.casalosjazmineshotel.com, visits) occupies a colonial-style $$). Some 50 minutes by bus from mansion 16km from town. Rates Colonia and surrounded by bucolic include meals, riding and campocountryside, El Galope Farm & related activities.

Hostel (00 598 9910 5985, www. elgalope.com.uy, $, dorm beds US$25) Getting there San Antonio de Areco is 1hr 30mins by is an affordable retreat run by a friendly couple who offer home-cooked car from BA on Ruta Nacional 8. If meals, sauna sessions, riding and bike you’re travelling by bus, services leave hire. from Retiro bus terminal (1hr 45mins).

TOP TIP!

Uruguay

COLONIA DEL SACRAMENTO

SAIL ACROSS THE RIVER FOR A SLICE OF HISTORY IN A PEACEFUL, ROMANTIC TOWN. Colonia del Sacramento, Uruguay’s oldest town, is a tranquil destination of cobbled streets lined with pictureperfect colonial houses, surrounded on three sides by water. It’s the closest town to Buenos Aires across the Río de la Plata, making it an ideal day’s escape from the urban chaos.

It tends to come as a surprise to

Getting there Buquebus (www.buquebus.com), Seacat (www.seacatcolonia.com) and Colonia Express (www. coloniaexpress.com) offer daily ferry services to Colonia. Buquebus and the significantly cheaper and smaller Seacat leave from a large terminal in Puerto Madero and run three 1hr crossings every day on comfy hydrofoils; Buquebus also has one 3hr ferry service. Colonia Express hydrofoils reach Uruguay in an hour and services leave from a small terminal at Pedro de Mendoza 330, in La Boca.

Resources

Photograph: JosĂŠ Zambrano

Useful information

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Sticking around

169

Map

170

Transport and Subte map

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Canadian Embassy Tagle 2828, entre Avenida Figueroa Alcorta y Juez Tedin, Recoleta (4808 1000/www.argentina.gc.ca). Bus 67, 102. Open 8.30am-12.30pm, 1.305.30pm Mon-Thur; 8.30am-2pm Fri. Irish Embassy 6th floor, Avenida del Libertador 1068, entre Ayacucho y Avenida Callao, Recoleta (5787 0801/www. embassyofireland.org.ar). Bus 17, 60, 61, 62, 92. Open 9am-1pm Mon-Fri.

Resources

New Zealand Embassy 5th floor, Carlos Pellegrini 1427, entre Arroyo y Posadas, Retiro (4328 0747/ www.nzembassy.com/argentina). Bus 10, 17, 59, 60, 92. Open 10am-noon Mon-Fri. For NZ citizens only: 9am-5.30pm Mon-Fri.

Tourist and travel information

Spot some of the many street performers in BA

Useful information Emergencies

Health

public Hospital de Clínicas (Avenida Córdoba 2351, 5950 8000, www.hospitaldeclinicas.uba.ar). For an English-speaking gynaecologist, contact Dr Claudia María Battista (3rd floor, Arenales 1611, Recoleta, 4811 6127). For back and neck woes, see Dr Craig Ingram Penny at Family Chiropractic in Belgrano (Office A, 5th floor, Gorostiaga 1664, 4779 9121, www.familychiropractic.com.ar). If your feet require the services of a podiatrist, try Point Centro de Podología y Ortopedia (Perón 4191, 4866 5885, www.centrodepodologia. com.ar) in Almagro.

The standard of medical care in Buenos Aires is generally high. For emergency or general medical needs, try Recoleta’s Hospital Alemán (Pueyrredón 1640, 4827 7000, www. hospitalaleman.org.ar), which has English-speaking doctors and is one of the cleanest and best hospitals in the city. There are also English-speaking doctors at the Hospital Británico (Perdriel 74, 4309 5400, www. hospitalbritanico.org.ar) in Constitución, and at Almagro’s Hospital Italiano (Juan Domingo Perón 4190, 4959 0200, www. hospitalitaliano.org.ar). Walk-in appointments at these private hospitals start from AR$280. Hospital Argerich (Pi y Margall 750, 4121 0700, www.hospitalargerich.org. ar) in La Boca, is one of the city’s better public hospitals; or make for the immense

If you need emergency dental treatment, you can call the Servicio de Urgencias Odontológicas at 4964 1259, or for the nearest public hospital, visit www.buenosaires.gov.ar/ areas/salud and click on ‘odontología’.

Drs Gustavo & Marisol Telo (Office B, 2nd floor, Laprida 1621, 4828 0821, mobile 15 5400 5999, www. dental-argentina.com) offer emergency care as well as cosmetic treatments and implants. Dental Square (Office F, 1st floor, Cabello 3181, 5778 0256, www.dentalsquareargentina.com) offers similar services, and Drs Leonardo Pelcman & Martín Pelcman (Office A, 10th floor, Avenida Santa Fe 3444, 4821 9070, www.drspelcman.com.ar) are also recommendable dentists. English is spoken at all three clinics.STDS, HIVND

Fire 100; also 4383 2222 or 4304 2222.

Medical emergencies 107 to call an ambulance.

Police 911; 101; also 4370 5911.

HOSPITALS AND DOCTORS

DENTISTS

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STDS, HIV AND AIDS

Pregunta SIDA runs a free HIV/ AIDS helpline (0800 333 3444, open 6am-midnight Mon-Fri; 9am-9pm Sat, Sun) with advice on general sexual health issues and where to go for treatment. Fundación Huésped (Ángel Peluffo 3932, 0800 222 4837, www.huesped.org.ar) runs a helpline and conducts research into AIDS, while a network of volunteers provides support to those affected.

Embassies and consulates American Embassy Avenida Colombia 4300, entre Sarmiento y Cerviño, Palermo (5777 4533/argentina.usembassy.gov).

Subte D, Plaza Italia/bus 37, 67, 130.

Open 8.30-11.30am, 2-4pm Mon-Fri. Visas by appointment only.

Australian Embassy Villanueva 1400, y Zabala, Belgrano (4779 3500/www.argentina. embassy.gov.au). Bus 15, 42, 55, 59.

Open 8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri. British Embassy & Consulate Luis Agote 2412, entre Avenida del Libertador y Avenida Las Heras, Recoleta (4808 2200/ukinargentina.fco. gov.uk/en). Bus 37, 60, 102. Open 9am-1pm, 2-5.30pm Mon-Thur; 9am-1pm Fri.

The city government’s tourist website is www.bue.gov.ar. A free information line is open from 8am to 8pm daily (0800 555 0016). For customised itineraries while in the city, feel free to contact BA Cultural Concierge who can arrange a personalised city experience (baculturalconcierge.com), or for tickets, tours and airport transfers, see Landing Pad BA (landingpadba.com). If you’re venturing beyond the capital, travel agency Say Hueque (5258 8740, www.sayhueque.com) can organise flights and tours around Argentina.

Safety tips

Continued economic hardship in Buenos Aires has been linked to a rise in street crime, but with a little common sense and a few basic precautions, visitors should be able to stay out of trouble. Avoid pulling out a wallet stacked with bills, and try not to flash expensive jewellery and cameras. Leave non-essential cards and ID at home, loop a leg through bag straps while in restaurants, keep an eye on belongings on public transport (the Subte in particular) and always use radio taxis (see p172). Although violent crime is rare, bag snatching and slitting, sadly, are not. If you are actually threatened, hand over your goods calmly: BA has a gun problem. Light-fingered petty thieves abound. Distraction thefts are common, such as where one person sprays a mustard-like substance on you while another ‘kindly’ offers to clean it off – and then clears off with your belongings.

Police stations Tourists can report crimes at the police station in the neighbourhood in which the incident happened, or at the Comisaría del Turista, where English-speaking staff is on hand to receive reports of crimes 24 hours a day (Avenida Corrientes 436, Microcentro, 0800 999 5000).

Telephones Dialling & codes All Buenos Aires landline numbers consist of eight digits. To call a mobile phone number, add 15 before the eight-digit number. From overseas, dial your country’s international dialling code then 54 11 and the eight-digit number, or for a mobile phone, dial 54 9 11 and then the last eight digits.

Other useful numbers Directory information 110.

International operator 000.

Mobile phones The main mobile phone companies in BA are Claro, Movistar and Personal.

Pay-as-you-go SIM cards (chips) can be purchased in phone shops and kiosks.

Money

Most banks have ATMs, and machines can also be found inside some petrol stations. They usually charge a fee (around US$6). Note that for most foreign cards the maximum withdrawal is AR$1000 at a time and ATMs may run short of cash at the beginning of the month and indeed, at any other time, so set some aside for emergencies. Opening a bank account is difficult for foreigners without local ID. To receive money from overseas, use Forexcambio (Marcelo T de Alvear 540, 4010 2000, www.forexar. com.ar) or Western Union (0800 800 3030, www.westernunion.com.ar). If you have a US bank account you can receive pesos at an exchange rate closer to that of the black market through Xoom (Libertad 1057, Recoleta, and various locations, www.xoom.com). The same can be done if you have a European bank account through Azimo (www.azimo. com). If you need to change money, an official casa de cambio (currency exchange) is Metrópolis (5554 5800, www.metropoliscf.com) with locations across the city, including at Florida 334 (5199 0844). Since the government implemented strict conditions on the purchase of foreign currencies, demand for US dollars has skyrocketed on the black market where US$1 can fetch AR$10 and above. Cuevas (caves), which exchange money at the black market rate, are the city’s unofficial bureaux de change and are often disguised as jewellery or souvenir stores; many are dotted around calle Florida in Microcentro.

LOST/STOLEN CREDIT CARDS

American Express 0810 555 2639.

Diners Club 0810 444 2484.

MasterCard 4348 7070.

Visa 4379 3333.

There are dozens of institutes offering Spanish classes in BA, from outfits like

Sticking around If, like so many before you, you find you’re just not ready to leave the bifes and the beautiful people behind, the following resources should help get you started in your quest to go from just passing through to permanente.

Apartment rentals

en.craigslist.org) which is in both English and Spanish, the Spanishlanguage Comparto Depto (www. compartodepto.com) or Spare Rooms Buenos Aires (3221 1798, www. spareroomsba.com).

If you want to rent a furnished flat for anything from a few nights to several months, and would rather go through an agency, there are a number of companies that can help. Rates vary greatly, but you can expect them to start at around US$700 per month.

Agencies generally charge commission and require a deposit, and some also offer services including transfers, city tours, Spanish classes, car rental and even concierges. Note that not all accept payment by credit card.

For Rent Argentina (4822 5912, www.4rentargentina.com), ByT Argentina (4876 5000, www. bytargentina.com) and House in Buenos Aires (4706 1151, www. houseinbuenosaires.com) can arrange lets in fully furnished apartments all over the city, from just the basics to truly palatial digs. My Space BA (4793 3496, www.myspaceba.com) and Oasis BA (4777 3692, www. oasiscollections.com) tend towards the more luxurious end of the scale. The latter also owns the Oasis Clubhouse offering three rooms to rent and use of one of BA’s loveliest pools. BA House (4815 7602, www.bahouse.com.ar) has flats in some of the city’s smarter barrios, as well as in Uruguay’s Punta del Este. Buenos Aires Habitat (4815 8662, www.buenosaireshabitat. com) offers short-term rentals and can also provide property management and advice on purchasing properties. A number of other businesses, such as BAires Apartments (4833 3319, www.bairesapartments.com) and Nancy Landi International Properties (www.nancylandi.com) have properties for sale as well as for rent. For a full-service apart-hotel in the heart of Palermo Hollywood with a sauna, pool and bilingual staff, try Cimma Suites (Paraguay 5326, 2054 2898, www.cimmasuites.com.ar), or check out our selection of apart-hotels on page 158.

Don’t be put off by the initial complications involved in renting in BA: if you find yourself without a See the daily black garantía (a guarantee from market (here known a local who can vouch for as ‘blue’) dollar rate Some of Buenos Aires’s you should you run out of at www.preciodolar- biggest estate agents are cash) and a DNI (national blue.com.ar.

Bullrich (6009 3500, identity card), and are www.ibullrich.com.ar) and reluctant to tie yourself to a Goldstein Propiedades (4865 minimum two-year contract, rest 5445, www.goldsteinpropiedades. assured that there are other options. com). Giesso (4361 1887, www.

Short- and long-term rental rates giessoprop.com.ar) and Propia can be negotiated, though you’ll Inmobilaria (4307 1881, www. very likely have to pay more than a porteño would. Prices tend to be quoted propiainmobiliaria.com) specialise in San Telmo properties, while Ojo in dollars, but can usually be paid in Propiedades (4832 4040, www. pesos. Note that if you’re paying in ojopropiedades.com) is based in pesos, many landlords charge at the Palermo. Meanwhile, Solo Dueños inflated black market rate. (www.soloduenos.com.ar) cuts out To search independently for an the middleman, putting potential apartment or a room in shared accommodation, trawl through the buyers in touch with property popular local Craigslist (buenosaires. owners directly.

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Buying property

Immigration

Complicated red tape makes attaining residency status in Argentina tricky, meaning that plenty of foreigners resort to the common, though increasingly frowned upon, practice of renewing the 90-day tourist visa granted on entering the country by popping across the river to Uruguay.

Technically, this is still legal, as long as you’re not working in Argentina.

For those who want to stick around and make it all above board, there are a number of options, including proving a private income (from a foreign rent or pension, for example), taking a course, getting a job or starting a business. There’s plenty of information to be found through the Immigration Authorities (www. migraciones.gov.ar). Or if all else fails, you can always set your sights on marriage. The fine for overstaying your visa is AR$300, which is paid upon leaving the country.

Work

Cash-in-hand, contract-free positions are relatively easy to come by in BA. Jobs in the service industry and teaching English are the main options, and adverts regularly feature on sites Craigslist (www.craigslist.org) and Jobs Abroad (www.jobsabroad.com).

Zona Jobs (www.zonajobs.com.ar) and CompuTrabajo (www. computrabajo.com.ar) are other sources. Wages are not generous, and you may need to patch together hours at different places to make ends meet.

English speakers are often required for telemarketing positions, but if your skills allow you to work for companies abroad, you’ll have the advantage of earning in a currency other than the peso. Remote workers can stave off feelings of isolation by opting to rent desk space at Areatres (5353 0333, www.areatresworkplace. com), a well-equipped, modern work space in Palermo designed for freelancers. If teaching English takes your fancy, you can obtain an internationally recognised qualification at International Training (4788 1788, www.ih-buenosaires.com) or Íbero Argentina (2057 1116, www.iberotefl.com).

Networking

While you might have arrived in BA with the idea of escaping Englishspeakers and working on your Spanish, there’s no harm in knowing where to look when you need some cultural familiarity, a helping hand settling in or advice on where to buy peanut butter. Language exchange groups like Spanglish (see left) are good ways of meeting other English-speakers, as are organisations like BA Expats (www.baexpats.org), CouchSurfing (www.couchsurfing. org) and InterNations (www. internations.org/buenosaires), which are popular with locals and foreigners.

Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014 169

Resources

Language study

Pensaris (7th floor, Bartolomé Mitre 734, 5218 7735, www.pensaris.com.ar), which caters more to business clients, to BA Plus (3rd floor, Suipacha 238, 4381 2076), which has courses for tango aficionados. In Palermo, Ayres de Español (Gurruchaga 1851, 4834 6340, www.ayresdespanol.com.ar) has private as well as small group classes, as do downtown IBL (Office 328, 3rd floor, Galería Güemes, Florida 165, 4331 0033, www.ibl.com.ar) and Ibero Spanish School (Uruguay 150, 2057 1116, www.iberospanish.com). Many schools, such as LV Studio (Darregueyra 2394, 4637 9442, www.lvstudioweb.com), offer varied activities like wine tasting. Expanish (Gral. Juan D Perón 698, 5252 3040, www.expanish.com) has some of the best facilities in town, and you can combine your studies with dance classes or football matches. VOS (Marcelo T de Alvear 1459, 4812 1140, www.vosbuenosaires.com) offers conversational classes focused on local slang. The University of Buenos Aires’s Laboratorio de Idiomas (25 de Mayo 221, 4343 5981, www.idiomas. filo.uba.ar) has an excellent Spanishfor-foreigners programme.

To organise an intercambio (language exchange) with native speakers, create and post your profile on the popular website Conversation Exchange (www.conversationexchange.com) and sit back as the offers roll in. Or check out Spanglish’s (mobile 15 3620 2454) wildly popular language exchange events that take place a few times a week in spots all over town.

Transport By taxi or remise

Taxis in Buenos Aires are black and yellow with a red light in the front window if available. They are reasonably priced and plentiful.

Visitors should be wary, though, of being taken for a long ride or being robbed by an unlicensed driver. For this reason, radio taxis or remises (licensed minicabs) are the best bet.

Look for the words ‘radio taxi’ and the name and number of the company on back passenger doors. Even better, call a taxi (you will need some Spanish to book a cab by phone, though hotel and restaurant staff will usually be happy to help). Reputable companies include Pídalo (4956 1200) and Radio Taxi Premium (4374 6666). If you have a smartphone, you can reserve a taxi through SaferTaxi (www.safertaxi. com); the Easy Taxi (4772 6233/www. easytaxi.com.ar) phone app is also helpful in minimising post-club waiting in the cold. This provides information on the closest taxi and the time it will take to reach you.Taxi meters start at AR$11 (AR$13.30 after 10pm, plus AR$6.60 after midnight), and since you’re not expected to tip, you should receive change to the nearest AR10¢.

Keep an eye out for counterfeit notes and dishonest drivers, who may switch your pristine bill for a fake, then accuse you of passing it. For trips outside the city, remises are best. They look like private cars and don’t run on meters, so agree on a price before setting out. Try Remises Via (4777 8888) or Remises Recoleta Vip (4983 0544).

By bus

Resources

City buses are called colectivos. Fares are AR$2.50, AR$2.70 or AR$2.85 for journeys within the capital when paid with a Sube card, which can be recharged at Subte stations and some kiosks. Pick up a card for AR$15 at locations listed here: www.sube.gob.ar; note that you’ll need to show your passport. Without a Sube card, the fare costs AR$5-$6 and must be paid with coins directly into the machine. To find your way around the city by bus – recommended, as they’re cheap, frequent and reliable – buy a Guía T, a pocket-size bus guide found at most newsstands. Or visit mapa.buenosaires. gob.ar, an excellent resource for planning your trip by public transport or bike.

Terminal de Omnibus More than 80 long-distance coach lines operate between Retiro and destinations throughout Argentina and as far away as Peru and Colombia.

There are typically two types of service to choose from: semi-cama (half bed) and coche-cama (bed seats), the latter often called ejecutivo. Tickets can be purchased at the bus station; some tickets can be bought through

authorised vendors around the city or in some cases online or over the phone.

In high season (Dec-Feb, Easter and July), tickets should be bought well in advance. For long-distance bus schedules and to purchase tickets, see www.plataforma10.com.

Avenida Antártida Argentina, y Calle 10, Retiro (Passenger information 4310 0700/www.tebasa.com.ar). Subte C, Retiro/bus 6, 23, 93, 130, 152.

Driving

Driving in Buenos Aires is a sure-fire way to raise your blood pressure, with high-speed, freestyle driving a favourite sport. In theory, priority is given to cars crossing other streets from the right; in practice, keep your wits about you and avoid assuming anything whatsoever.

In order to hire a car, you need to be over 21, with a driver’s licence. Prices start at around AR$640 per day. Major companies will allow you to take the car out of the country if Buenos Aires’s underground you sign a contract in train network (the Subte) is front of a public notary, quick and easy to use and Purchase a Sube which costs around runs from 5am to 10.30pm card at designated AR$300. You must have (8am to 10pm Sundays). It has four lines which branch locations before using at least third-party public transport to insurance (seguro de out from the city centre and save costs: www. responsabilidad civil), but two which run laterally. A sube.gob. it’s sensible to take out single journey costs AR$4.50 ar. fully comprehensive. For car with a Sube card and AR$5 hire, contact Avis (www.avis.com. without, which can be paid at the ar), Baires Rent A Car (www. ticket booth. Hold on to your bairesrentacar.com.ar) or Hertz (www. belongings – theft is common. milletrentacar.com.ar).

By Subte

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By train Trains connecting the northern suburbs with the city centre are more modern – and safer – than the often shockingly badly maintained carriages serving the south.

Retiro Trains run north and west from Retiro, which is really three stations in one: towards: Mitre, Belgrano and San Martín. From Mitre, there are trains to Tigre via San Isidro. Fares range from AR$2 to AR$11.50 in cash, or AR$1 to AR$5.80 with a Sube card.

Avenida Ramos Mejía 1358, Retiro.

172 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014

Assisted Buenos Aires is far from being disabled-friendly. Pavements are in shocking condition and wheelchair ramps are few and far between, the Subte is hard to access and few buses go super-bajo (ultra-low). There are, however, some specialist transport companies that can assist.

QRV – Transportes Especiales QRV has a number of adapted minibuses for wheelchair users, equipped with microphones and guides. Call for prices. It’s advisable to

book 24 hours ahead (4306 6635/ www.qrvtransportes.com.ar).

By air Ezeiza (Aeropuerto Ministro Pistarini) Most international flights arrive and depart from this airport, except some to and from Uruguay, Paraguay, Brazil and Chile (see below). There is no rail link between Ezeiza and downtown BA, but Manuel Tienda León shuttle buses (4315 5115, www.tiendaleon.com.ar) cost AR$100 and leave every 30 minutes between 6am and midnight and hourly between midnight and 6am. Depending on where you live, for an extra AR$20, a connecting remis can take you to your door. Allow 50 minutes for travel between the city and airport, and more than an hour at rush hour. For a taxi from the airport, use one from the approved company kiosks, which charge around AR$250. For an airport transfer in English, contact Buenos Aires Taxis (mobile 15 4793 3496, www.bataxis.com).

Ezeiza, 35km from city centre (5480 2500/www.aa2000.com.ar).

Aeroparque Jorge Newbery ‘Aeroparque’, as Jorge Newbery airport is known, is the arrival and departure point for domestic flights, as well as those to and from Uruguay and occasionally Brazil, Chile and Paraguay.

It’s located on Costanera Norte, and there is a taxi rank at the airport entrance. The journey to the city centre is about 15 minutes away (don’t wait around too long as traffic can be tricky at rush hour) and costs around AR$100.

Avenida Costanera Rafael Obligado, entre La Pampa y Sarmiento, Costanera Norte (5480 6111/ www.aa2000.com.ar).