Travel & Hotels

Travel & Hotels Everything is bigger and better in Hokkaido, Japan’s most northern (and coldest) island, which gets consistent snowfalls. Powder hunters flock here in search of deep powder, off-piste and tree runs. But, located over 1,000km from HOKKAIDO VS

Japan’s capital city, you need more than just a few days to really enjoy it.

Trying to find your go-to ski or snowboard resort this winter? With over 600 resorts in Japan, that’s no easy feat. To help you decide, we’ve compared the resorts in two of the most popular areas. Words Megan Waters

NISEKO Located around three hours by bus from Sapporo, Japan’s best-known resort is increasingly becoming known as the Whistler of the East. Very accessible and foreigner-friendly, Niseko comprises three main resorts (Grand Hirafu, Niseko Village and Annupuri) that are joined together at the top of Mount Niseko-Annupuri. A special combination ticket, the Niseko All Mountain Pass, gives access to all three resorts for ¥5,600 per day. Huge amounts of light powder snow and long runs make Niseko a powder-hunter’s paradise, complete with off-trail skiing and snowboarding – relatively uncommon in Japan. Access the backcountry through guided tours, helicopter trips (heli skiing), or cat skiing, where skiers and snowboarders are taken up the mountain in a snowcat grooming machine with an attached cabin in search of that glorious powder. A guided group tour for four to 12 guests, including safety equipment, lunch and transport costs ¥38,000 each per day: hanazononiseko.com/ en/snow/weiss-cat-skiing. KIRORO SNOW WORLD A two-hour bus ride from Sapporo’s airport, and just 60 minutes from Niseko, Kiroro is not as high profile as other nearby Hokkaido resorts. But the lack of crowds means powderhounds can make the most of the abundant snow and tree skiing without the rest of Hokkaido’s hordes. This medium-sized resort has 21 runs spread equally over green, blue and black pistes, and is good for all levels. Although there is no village nearby, the port town of Otaru is only 28km away. Here, you can visit the Otaru Canal, which is lined with cafés and shopping centres in converted old warehouses. The Nikka Whisky Distillery – home to one of Japan’s top whisky makers – is also in the area. It was founded in 1934 by Masataka Taketsuru who studied whisky-making techniques in Scotland and is known as the father of Japanese whisky. The distillery allows visitors to enjoy a self-guided walking tour around the grounds and sample different Nikka whiskies. www.kiroro.co.jp/en RUSUTSU Besides the perfectly groomed slopes, piles of powder snow, and some of the best tree runs in the world, this resort is a haven for families and kids. Full- or half-day childcare is available for children aged one to four, while older kids – or adults who are tired of the slopes – can hang out in the snow park and do some tubing, sledding, snow biking and other activities. Stay at the Rusutsu Resort Tower hotel, which is conveniently ski-in ski-out, has a wave pool and slide, and boasts two games arcades. en.rusutsu.co.jp

FURANO Although Furano has established facilities as well as services in English, it doesn’t really feel like a resort, especially not a Western one. For a real Japan experience, visit the nearby town of Furano for delicious Japanese food and sake. The accommodation options range from Japanese-style hotels, pensions and minshukus (Japanese-style B&Bs) to the more Westernised self-contained options such as apartments and chalets. Visit Fukiage Onsen on Mount Tokachi, a well-known outdoor hot spring. Free of charge and open 24 hours a day, this tucked-away bathing spot is for both males and females, but more reserved bathers can wear a swimsuit. tinyurl.com/ TOTfukiage

HOW TO GET TO HOKKAIDO

Fly into New Chitose Airport (Sapporo) from Tokyo’s Haneda or Narita airports, or Osaka International Airport. Although just a 90-minute flight from Haneda, it’s one of the busiest air routes in the world. Or take the new Hokkaido Shinkansen, which is set to open in March 2016 and connects Tokyo with Shin-Hakodate-Hokuto Station in Hokkaido via the undersea Seikan Tunnel. The journey will take just over four hours.

Travel & Hotels HOKKAIDO NIIGATA VS

Niigata’s close proximity to Tokyo, high average snowfall, and good quality snow make it the perfect destination for a one- or even two-day skiing or snowboarding trip. But with so much choice, the only problem is deciding which resort is right for you.

GALA YUZAWA This is the only ski resort in Japan with it’s own shinkansen train station, which means you can be on the slopes in under two hours from Tokyo Station. With 15 different runs, excellent facilities for kids and beginners, as well as ski, snowboard and wear rental, it’s the perfect hassle-free place to visit when you’ve just got to get your snow kick – even for just a few hours. Japan’s convenience culture even on the slopes. www.galaresort.jp

NAEBA You may know Naeba for being the host of Fuji Rock Festival, but this neck of the woods gets slightly more glammed up in the winter months. Stay at the glitzy Naeba Prince Hotel – the main hub of the resort – for a ski-in ski-out indulgence. With 1,242 guest rooms, 22 restaurants, karaoke booths, spa centres, beauty and nail salons, table tennis and billiards tables, it’s more like a small city than a resort. But luxury like this doesn’t come cheap, so be prepared to reach deep into those pockets. www.princehotels.com/en/naeba

MYOKO KOGEN Because of its relative proximity to the sea, Myoko Kogen receives masses of snow each year. But it’s the quality, not quantity, of the snow that really matters. Here you’ll find lots and lots of glorious powder. Although not the light, dry snow that you’ll find in Hokkaido, this white stuff is still reasonably dry and is thought of as the best powder in the region. Off-piste and backcountry skiing are both permitted at this laidback resort so you can really enjoy the quality snow. myokokogen.net

KAGURA This three-in-one resort incorporates the areas of Kagura, Mitsumata and Tashiro. You can also get to Naeba via the Dragondola – a 5.5km gondola that claims to be the longest ropeway in the world. A quiet resort, this is a haven for beginners or not-so-confident intermediate skiers and snowboarders. With its sea of green runs (or maybe more turquoise because of their relative steepness compared to a standard beginner slope), this resort lets you comfortably cruise from one end to the other. A first timer? Don’t worry, Canyons Snowsports School offers private lessons in English. canyons. jp/tours/winter/snow-sports-school

ISHIUCHI MARUYAMA At a maximum of altitude of 930m, this resort doesn’t quite reach the elevation of nearby Gala Yuzawa, meaning snow conditions can suffer at times. But its abundance of long, wide runs, four terrain parks and two halfpipes makes up for this, and it’s actually one of the best freestyle resorts in the country. It’s connected to Gala Yuzawa and Yuzawa Kogen, so you can buy a one-day pass for all three resorts (¥5,100 adults, ¥4,200 children). www.visitishiuchi.com

HOW TO GET TO NIIGATA

Getting to these mountains is easy and only takes about 90 minutes from Tokyo. For most resorts (excluding Myoko Kogen), just jump on the Joetsu Shinkansen from Tokyo Station. Trains during the peak season go direct to Gala Yuzawa, or you can transfer at Echigo-Yuzawa Station to catch a local train or bus to your resort of choice. For Myoko Kogen, take the newly opened Hokuriku bullet train from central Tokyo.

Travel & Hotels

One more reason to choose Niigata… Get a taste of traditional Japan by staying at this hotel hideaway during your skiing holiday. Words Akiko Toya

Winter in Niigata is not only about skiing. At Osawa hot springs, which is just near renowned ski resorts Kagura and Muikamachi Hakkaisan, you’ll find Satoyama Jujo, an exquisite lodge overlooking the mountains, with concept rooms themed for different lifestyles and ultimate relaxation. Created by ‘Jiyujin’, a magazine geared towards people who value quality of life, Satoyama Jujo opened in 2014 and offers a grand experience of Japanese traditions.

The hotel was reconstructed from a 150-year-old Japanese home and, as you enter the lounge space, you’ll notice signs of how the architecture accommodates for Japan’s heavy, compact snow. To allow the building to bear the weight of the snow in an area that can collect up to four metres of it, the rugged ceiling beams are intricately assembled. Amazingly, however, the building was constructed with no blueprint; just the intuition of the master builder. As a further nod to the lodge’s masterful design, the furniture in the lounge was created by renowned designers, with each piece being chosen for its individuality.

Another significant feature of Satoyama Jujo is the (largely vegetarian) food on offer. The chef, who trained at a Michelin 3-star restaurant, presents ‘natural’ Japanese cuisine, a fusion of local food traditions, local knowledge and the essence of Ayurveda. Winter ingredients include root vegetables such as turnips, daikon (Japanese white radish), carrots and renkon (lotus root), which are stored in the snow to increase their sweet flavour. This season, you can also look forward to dishes including amberjack and crab – and of course, the all-important rice bowl. The area happens to be one of Japan’s leading rice producers, so you’ll not only be treated to quality grains but also some of the best nihonshu (sake).

And let’s not forget the outdoor hot spring, which boasts tremendous views across mountain ridges and abundant Japanese cedar forests. In the evening, the stars come out to play and you’ll marvel at the sense of space you’ve chanced upon. During winter, you’ll enjoy views of the snow-covered landscape while soaking in the steaming water – it’s a strange sensation when your body is immersed in hot water while your eyelashes start to collect little crystals of ice. After bathing, don’t take a shower; rather let the healing minerals from the onsen water soak into your skin.

Satoyama Jujo is a place where history exists in harmony with modern art and design. When you hear the staff say ‘welcome home’, it feels at once unfamiliar and perfectly true. It’s a feeling that’s akin to reconnecting with a relative you haven’t seen in some time. And it’s sure not easy to leave.

A fusion of Japanese cuisine with Ayurveda

ESSENTIAL INFO 1209-6 Osawa, Minami-Uonuma, Niigata Prefecture 025 783 6777 satoyama-jujo. com. Prices start at ¥32,000 per room per night. There are only 12 rooms, so reservation is required. English and French are okay. Children need to be elementary school age or older, and only one room is available for families with kids.