Tohoku Update

Picking up the pieces

The Nozomi Project transforms broken pottery left in the wake of the 2011 tsunami into beautiful items of jewellery. Words Nick Narigon

Four months after the northeast coastal town of Ishinomaki was battered by the March 11, 2011 tsunami, New Jersey native Sue Plumb Takamoto picked through the rubble of the decimated homes, discarding soggy family photos and collecting broken pieces of pottery. ‘It felt unreal in a lot of ways. It was worse than I imagined,’ says Takamoto, who was doing volunteer cleanup work with an organisation called Be One. ‘When you walk into a house where a family used to live, you see a life that has been devastated.’

One year after the disaster, Sue and her husband Eric relocated with their four children to a temporary home in a damaged neighbourhood in the once-thriving fishing community. Today, the Takamotos and their team operate the Nozomi Project in Ishinomaki, a corporation that employs mothers to create

jewellery from shattered her car two blocks away pottery. from home. Takamoto Ishinomaki suffered also learned of a the most fatalities, and 50 percent of the town was flooded. The Product lines are Chinese organisation that teaches former prostitutes how to make first floor of the local school was ravaged by waves, and the named after loved ones and sell jewellery. She thought perhaps the mothers of Ishinomaki second and third floors could do the same thing, served as emergency using the shards of shelters. Takamoto pottery strewn about accompanied her town. children by bus She ran her to the temporary thoughts by a local school in the mom and friend, mountains every who coincidentally morning. While makes jewellery waiting at the bus as a hobby, and stop, Takamoto the idea took hold. became friends with ‘That was the impetus I other mothers. ‘They needed,’ says Takamoto. were the ones helping me. I ‘We got these women together, was like, “What day do we need gym the moms I met at the schoolyard, clothes?” and these moms were and friends of ours, and we said let’s great,’ she says. come together and figure out how to ‘They helped this do this.’ crazy foreigner.’ In the summer of 2012, their Takamoto business plan was put into motion. learned that, They invited a professional jeweller during the from Los Angeles to come and tsunami, one spend 10 days in Ishinomaki to mother was teach their employees. And then, forced to in October of that year, the Nozomi abandon her Project opened for business. pet poodle, who Sixteen women are now sadly later died. employed as grinders, jewellers and Another mom administrators, earning an hourly lost her sisterwage plus holiday time and bonuses. in-law, who was The women name each product swept away by line after loved ones. The Nodoka the tsunami in line, for example, is named after the

Sue and Eric Takamoto, founders of the Nozomi Project

daughter of the worker who lost her poodle. The Rumi line of necklaces is named after the sister-in-law who died in her car. The Nozomi Project has earned a profit in each year of operation, with 20 percent of revenue supporting charities.

‘Our desire three years ago was to create a safe place and a community where women can gain skills and dignity,’ says Takamoto. ‘There have been a lot of bumps in the road, but I have been given an amazing gift to see these women gain confidence, and to witness their joy as the work of their hands is sent across the world.’ For more information, visit nozomiproject.com

15 minutes with… Japan’s first lady

Akie Abe shares her thoughts on Tohoku’s recovery and how we can help the area’s revival simply by going skiing. Words Akiko Toya and Yukako Izumi

March 2016 marks five years since the Great East Japan Earthquake and Tsunami. Although reconstruction efforts in Tohoku have picked up pace, it cannot yet be said that Fukushima and the surrounding region are back to the way they were before the disaster. ‘It’s all over the news every time March 11 draws close, but now that five years have passed, people no longer actively think about the issue in their daily lives,’ says Akie Abe, wife of Prime Minister Shinzo Abe.

Abe regularly visits Tohoku where she works with several reconstruction-related projects. ‘The current situation is very different from the early stages, when volunteers were clearing debris and so on. Now, rather than think what we can do for the people of Tohoku, we need to think about what we can do together with them.’

With this idea in mind, an event titled ‘I’ll go skiing even if you don’t take me’ was held in Yamagata Prefecture’s Zao in spring 2015. The title is a reference to the ’80s movie ‘Take Me Skiing’, which was a hit during Japan’s ‘bubble economy’ era and inspired a ski boom across the country. The event’s name may be intentionally comical, but it also represents Abe’s strong connection to the slopes and how she believes skiing could contribute to Tohoku’s recovery. As a young girl, Abe could often be found on the slopes with her family, and after graduating from high school she worked part-time at a ski resort, developing a still-burning passion for skiing. So she was there during the boom and has witnessed first-hand how ski resorts have begun struggling as business has declined over the last few years.

‘When working at a ski resort, you can do

First lady of the slopes, Akie Abe

farming in summer, but when that option is taken enjoy the opening festival featuring delicacies away [because there’s not enough business], you by chef Tsutomu Ochiai of La Bettola (‘toughest have no choice but to leave during the low season. reservation in Japan’) fame, as well as creations Zao is in Yamagata and escaped damage from by Hiroki Yoshitake, who runs the Michelin-starred the earthquake, but it is still in the Tohoku region Sola in Paris. and can serve as an example of how revitalising When people who live outside of Tohoku think a ski resort can lead to the entire area around about what they can do to help the region, they it becoming more active.’ This is tend to mostly consider the most demonstrated in the fact that event profound solutions, but Abe tells us to staff includes Zao locals, with relax a little: ‘If you can go, then just go. everyone preparing and managing You don’t have to do anything specific the event together. This spring, the event returns for its second edition and takes place Just visiting the region – just head over and meet the people.’ She also points out that ‘outsiders’, including foreigners, may be able to over three days. In addition to ski lessons by top coaches, participants can help view Tohoku’s charms from an objective point of view and therefore may be can look forward to snow forest exploration and better than locals at letting others know about the hot spring tours, making the occasion worthwhile area. She emphasises that you don’t always have even for non-skiers. And if you’re like Abe, who to keep the disaster squarely in mind when going says she enjoys a good après-ski scene, you’ll to Tohoku: just visiting the region, perhaps going be happy to hear that ’80s parties will be held skiing or on a hot spring holiday, could help push in the evenings. You can also sip Tohoku sake the area’s recovery in a positive direction. inside a huge snow hut at the Kamakura Bar, and Event details at ski80s.jp (Japanese only).

Lost in Harajuku?

Head straight for Moshi Moshi Box

about our popular series of free maps: pocket-sized guides to the multifarious delights this city has to offer. They’re hard to miss these days – as well as our ever-popular ‘101 things to do in Shibuya’ edition and the comprehensive ‘88 things to do in Tokyo’, we’ve come out with maps for nearly all the top areas including Roppongi, Shinjuku, Nihonbashi, Marunouchi, Koenji and Ginza.

Each edition squeezes the best of the capital into a compact pamphlet, complete with a city map, and we’ve included everything from offbeat art galleries and otaku meccas to ancient shrines and hipster hangouts.

We’ve also recently expanded the series to include places beyond Tokyo, launching special maps for those of you heading to Ise-Shima or Sapporo in Hokkaido – both make for a great mini getaway. A s the shopping district that symbolises Japanese pop culture, Harajuku is a must-visit for any tourist. But anyone who’s jumped into the shopping fray will tell you it can be a little intimidating. Which is why you’ll be pleased to hear about Moshi Moshi Box, the tourist information centre that’s right in the heart of the area.

To find it, walk five minutes from the station and look out for the centre’s symbol – a big, colourful world clock designed by Harajuku kawaii impresario Sebastian Masuda. The centre provides sightseeing information for the Shibuya area, including Harajuku. It also provides essential information and services such as courier assistance, a foreign currency exchange machine, and free wi-fi.

But that’s not all: aiming to serve as an entertainment centre in itself, it’s a place where overseas visitors can experience J-pop culture through activities such as karaoke. There’s also a souvenir shop where you can pick up Mt Fuji artwork and quirky items such as sushi socks and daruma (traditional Japanese doll) erasers. 3-23-5 Jingumae, Shibuya (Harajuku and Meiji-Jingumae stations). 03 6447 2225. moshimoshi-nippon.jp. Daily

Get our maps and mag in Shibuya Stop by the Shibuya Station Tourist Information Centre You can now get your copy of Time Out Tokyo magazine delivered – we ship internationally too! Please visit time-outtokyo.myshopify. com.

Time Out readers will know

All of these publications, along with issues of our magazine, are available to pick up at Shibuya Station’s tourist information centre, conveniently located in the underground passage on the second basement floor of Shibuya Station. The Englishspeaking guides will help you stock up, provide sightseeing tips, and assist you in navigating the bowels of the cavernous 10am-6pm.

Pick up our maps and magazine at one of these venues: Stations: Select Tokyo Metro and Toei Subway stations Tourist information centres: Tokyo Metropolitan Government Headquarters Shibuya Station Tourist Information Centre Tokyo City Air Terminal and more tourist information centres Airports: Haneda Airport Narita International Airport Shops: Tsutaya Tokyo Roppongi Books Kinokuniya Tokyo Tower Records Shibuya and more shops Restaurants: Time Out Cafe & Diner Hard Rock Café Tokyo (Roppongi) and more restaurants Hotels that have Les Clefs d’Or Japan member concierge: ANA InterContinental Tokyo The Peninsula Tokyo Palace Hotel Tokyo Park Hyatt Tokyo station itself.

Grand Pacific Le Daiba Mandarin Oriental,Tokyo Cerulean Tower Tokyu Hotel Grand Hyatt Tokyo Conrad Tokyo Hotel Okura Tokyo The Ritz Carlton Tokyo Prince Park Tower Tokyo and more hotels Note: If you can’t find the map you’re looking for, this probably means we’ve temporarily run out of stock. Please be patient while we work on the next print run. Please direct any advertising queries to sales@timeout.jp.

Barefoot and fancy free At home in Japan

In Tokyo, your home is like a spa Takeo Funabiki offers an intro to the regenerative powers of Japanese abodes

When staying at hotels abroad, I have occasionally come across entire families casually riding the elevator wearing nothing but their bathrobes. Looking like they’re heading to the beach, these smiling folks in slippers make me, the quiet character occupying part of the same small space, feel like the world’s been turned upside down. Allow me to explain…

The Japanisation of the luxury hotel Back in the day, hotels in Japan were places where locals learned the ways of ‘civilisation’: warnings such as ‘please don’t wear your yukata in the hallways’ or ‘please don’t wear sunglasses in the lobby’ hinted at the level of manners expected. This was in complete contrast to ryokans (traditional-style inns), where people wear bathrobes when heading back from the bathing area, enter the banquet hall barefoot, sit cross-legged, down drinks without inhibition and act a little disorderly.

Bathrobe-wearing guests strolling around the fancy hotels of New York and Paris appeared for a reason – that is, because every luxury hotel

worth the moniker now places great simple lifestyle back then. Looking emphasis on its spa facilities. back, we should have seen through I understand that this marketing the strangeness of such behaviour – strategy has been wildly successful after all, did those people on the TV in the West. To put it in simple terms, shows really feel ‘at home’? luxury hotels all across the world From my point of view as a cultural can be said to be ‘turning Japanese’, anthropologist, homes really should as they move in the direction of the be like spas. Because they’re places onsen ryokan. of regeneration. Firstly, it’s where the next generation of The home is a spa humans is conceived. I’ve come to realise Secondly, the home that even the ordinary is where the body is Japanese home has, in a sense, always Luxury hotels revitalised through rest. With this perspective been a ‘spa’. The around the in mind, it’s quite first thing you do when entering one world are apparent that scenes depicting people taking of our abodes is take “turning off their shoes at home, off your shoes and get ready to relax as Japanese” dozing off on a couch, sitting on the floor, and the three pillars of a even getting out of the Japanese home are bath, food and shower with nothing but a towel sleep (preferably in that order). wrapped around their waist are on

So you can imagine how we the increase in Western movies. felt when, back in the ’60s, we Being barefoot has clearly become watched American family dramas in vogue. on Japanese TV and saw stylish A while back, intense diplomatic folks engaging in sophisticated negotiations took place regarding conversation around the dinner the question of whether or not Queen table, wearing their Sunday best and Elizabeth should take her shoes off – pointedly – wearing shoes indoors. while touring a Kyoto temple during We lacked confidence in our relatively her visit to Japan. The reason was that having the Queen show ‘skin’ in public would be an embarrassment to the British – apparently, the monarch only takes her shoes off when bathing or sleeping. I assume that for those who share such royal sensibilities, the entire Japanese household must seem like a bathcome-bedroom.

Want to visit a Japanese home? Best try a ryokan So how can a foreign traveller in Tokyo get a taste of such homely pleasures? Japanese people are often said to be hesitant to invite outsiders to their abodes. This is of course due to the fact that Japanese homes are much like personal spas, i.e. private places for relaxation. What’s more, our houses are often rather cluttered, so people tend to be too embarrassed to invite strangers in. Hence, a tourist’s best shot will most likely be a ryokan. At a traditional inn like this, you’ll be able to stroll around barefoot, wear a yukata and enjoy the three pleasures of bath, food and sleep.

For our list of Tokyo’s best ryokan, visit tinyurl.com/ TOTryokan

Japan has a baby problem, in that they’re not making enough of them. The country’s declining population is scheduled to bottom out some time in the next 50 years unless the good folks in the bureaucracy figure out a way to raise the GNBP (gross national bedroom productivity). But we’d like to humbly suggest that the solution is staring them right in the face: get people to eat more Japanese food again! The Japanese diet has become increasingly Westernised in the postwar period, which is a shame because native dishes aren’t just good for your health, they’re good for your private life too…

SUPPON (SOFTSHELL TURTLE) A delicacy in East Asia, Japanese suppon has long been associated with wealth, excess and virility. One reason for this is because lords and nobles would often consume it before their sexy time. Another reason is the turtle head’s phallic shape. Despite being known mainly as a ‘man’s dish’, suppon is gaining popularity amongst female diners who appreciate its high collagen content for their skin. History aside, modern science has shown that suppon has an enormous amount of vitamins and minerals, to the point that suppon blood is actually a very healthy beverage. So now you know what to suggest on your next date with Vampire-san. GREEN TEA Ever wondered what keeps Japanese people going through their 10-hour workdays and 100- year lifespans? There’s a reason why cups of green tea are ubiquitous in all Japanese social settings: it’s some of the healthiest stuff you can put in your body. Chock full of the super healthy antioxidant catechin, nutritionists love the stuff – and so should anyone who wants a healthy sex life. Catechin helps your blood circulate to all parts of your body, and if you don’t know why that’s important for fun in bed, you might want to read a different magazine.

You know you’re in Tokyo when… You eat turtle to get your mojo back

UNAGI

Long, meaty and slippery… Just looking at a Japanese eel might be enough to get some people in the mood. Of course, it’s not about size but what’s inside that counts. Eels are rich in vitamins A, B1, B2, B12, D and E, which means they’ll help your body get a jump on just about any problem. They’re also rich in omega-3, which can help head off diabetes, an important consideration in the land of mountains of white rice and nama biiru (draught beer). Sold in sushi shops, eel shops, powdered form and as special Unagi Pie baked goods, Japanese eel is truly worthy of the ‘Engrish’ catch copy commonly printed

on eel crackers: ‘a snack for nights’.

SEAWEED The word ‘seaweed’ doesn’t sound sexy, we admit. Probably the ‘weed’ bit. But as is often the case in romantic situations, things are not always what they seem. Many Japanese people eat seaweed every day (for breakfast!) and it’s an easy way to pack more nutrients into your diet while keeping the calorie count low. Nori, wakame and kombu all have their own benefits: from reducing flatulence to helping regulate hormones. Slip a sheet or two alongside your next sunny-side-up breakfast and reap the benefits.

MUGI BARLEY Japanese barley, or mugi, may be small in stature but it packs a punch. Mugi is a great source of fibre, which helps keep your blood sugar levels under control. Why is this important? Left to run amok, spikes of high blood sugar levels wreak havoc on the nerves in your more sensitive areas – and we don’t need to tell you what a lack of sensitivity means, do we? Mugi is also a great source of zinc, an essential ingredient in keeping sperm count up. Sounds like it’s time to switch from hakumai (white rice) to mugi gohan (white rice mixed with barley).

In the next issue of Time Out Tokyo…

Spring has sprung! Possibly the prettiest season in Tokyo, this is the best time for cherry blossom strolls and park lounging.

Available across Tokyo from April