Bay Magazine June 2015 by Times Total Media

A MAGAZINE OF THE TAMPA BAY TIMES

JUNE 2015

THE ART OF FOOD AND DRINK

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June July WELCOME TO THE FOOD AND DRINK ISSUE

on the cover

Il Ritorno’s Baby Beet Salad with baby golden and baby candy-striped beets and smoked shishito peppers from Faithful Farms; lavender goat cheese; crispy Pecorino; and Meyer lemon gel. Page 118.

Take a look at some of the most dynamic of the microdistilleries that are popping up all over Florida.

Cover photograph by Sophia Nahli Allison

IF THE SPIRIT MOVES YOU

59 AGED TO PERFECTION The owner of a small eatery in St. Petersburg practices affinage, the fine art of aging and maturing cheese.

77 RAISE A CUP A look at prized vessels of ancient times and today meant to hold liquids to quench thirst and libations to celebrate.

118 GOING LOCAL

66 A SPRINKLE OF MAGIC Embark on a delicious culinary journey at the Four Seasons Resort Orlando at Walt Disney World. Photograph courtesy of Four Seasons Resort Orlando

Tampa Bay chefs are sourcing local ingredients to whip up creative dishes. Meet three who adhere to the practice on an impressive level.

130 CREATING A STIR Where there’s smoke, there’s a craft cocktail. Mixologists are stirring things up by flavoring drinks with torched hardwoods, teas and fruit.

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A MAGAZINE OF THE TAMPA BAY TIMES

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EDITOR Mary Jane Park mjpark@tampabay.com PHOTO EDITOR COPY EDITOR

CREATIVE DIRECTOR Pegie Stark pstark@tampabay.com

Patty Yablonski Cathy Keim

CONTRIBUTORS Sophia Nahli Allison, Lennie Bennett, James Borchuck, James Branaman, Lara Cerri, Douglas R. Clifford, Jim Damaske, Cherie Diez, Eve Edelheit, Brendan Fitterer, Octavio Jones, Monica Herndon, Scott Keeler, Melissa Lyttle, Suzin Moon, John Pendygraft, Laura Reiley, Valerie Romas, Kathy Saunders, Amy Scherzer, Michelle Stark, Daniel Wallace. Bay is published seven times a year by Times Publishing Co. and delivered to Tampa Bay Times subscribers in select neighborhoods in Pinellas and Hillsborough counties. Copyright 2014. Vol. 8, No. 6. THE TAMPA BAY TIMES CHAIRMAN AND CEO Paul C. Tash EDITOR AND VICE PRESIDENT Neil Brown

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VICE PRESIDENT OF SALES AND MARKETING ADVERTISING MANAGER

Bruce Faulmann

Mark Shurman

CLASSIFIED ADVERTISING MANAGER TAMPA ADVERTISING MANAGER

Michelle Mitchell

Dawn Philips

National / Major Retail Advertising Manager Kelly Spamer St. Petersburg Retail Advertising Manager Andi Gordon Clearwater Retail Advertising Manager Jennifer Bonin Brandon Advertising Sales Manager Tony Del Castillo Pasco Retail Manager Luby Sidoff Automotive Advertising Manager Larry West MARKETING MANAGER

Christopher Galbraith

FULFILLMENT MANAGER Gerald Gifford IMAGING AND PRODUCTION Gary Zolg, Brian J. Baracani Jr., Orville Creary, Greg Kennicutt, Janet L. Rhodes, Ralph Morningstar DISTRIBUTION MANAGER Jim Thompson REGIONAL HOME DELIVERY MANAGERS Diann Bates, David Maxam To view the magazine online, visit www.tampabay.com/bay To order photo reprints, visit www.tampabay.com/photosales To advertise in Bay magazine: (727) 893-8535

22 bay

JUNE 2015

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from the editor

LET YOUR CULINARY CURIOSITY GROW

Last fall, some friends and I invested in a Community Supported Agriculture (CSA) share from Tampaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Sweetwater Organic Farm. It may be one of the finest gifts we have ever given ourselves. We are urban dwellers with little space or time to grow proper vegetable gardens just now, and we have no doubt that the bounty we have divided over the past half-year has helped us nutritionally and otherwise. Along with the abundant greens that arrive each week, we have had celery, cucumbers, carrots, onions, radishes, squash and leafy herbs. Lettuces and kale come with grit, soil clings to the root vegetables, and we always know we are getting freshly harvested, locally grown produce. Local seafood long has been a mainstay of many area restaurants, many of which also are turning to nearby farms for provisioning. Just this past year, we have experienced an explosion in the culinary and spirits scenes here. We hope this issue of Bay helps you to savor some of the many tastes now available in the region. â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Mary Jane Park

26 bay

JUNE 2015

Have comments, questions or story ideas? Let us know. Contact Mary Jane Park at (727) 893-8267 or mjpark@tampabay.com.

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AU NATUREL Summertime entertaining gets inspiration from both land and sea. For informal dining, decoration starts with seashells and driftwood gathered along the beach and bouquets of flowers and greenery brought in from the garden. Add colorful linens, tiki lights and signature serving pieces, and you have the basics for a tropical fiesta.

This elegant octopus beverage dispenser is perfect for any occasion. The pewter and glass container ($321.99, ZaZoo’d, 531 Central Ave., St. Petersburg; zazood.com) works for poolside water breaks, birthday party lemonade or adult beverages. We like the idea of floating little fishshaped ice molds in a blue Curacao-infused “sea.” Photograph by Lara Cerri

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JUNE 2015

Versatile and ornamental, this pewter and glass octopus bowl ($106.99, ZaZooâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d) can be piled high with peel-and-eat shrimp or any mixture of greens and seasonal fruits. Other uses: Fill it with ice for chilling beverages, or pour in a favorite punch or sangria. The party starts here. Photograph by Lara Cerri

DOWNTOWN ST. PETERSBURG’S ONLY ROOFTOP LOUNGE WITH BREATHTAKING VIEWS OF TAMPA BAY. ROOF ROOF OFTO TOP TO P LOUNG L LO LOU OUNG OU O NG NGE E

AWARD WINNING SEASONAL MENU CREATED FROM ORGANIC & LOCALLY GROWN INGREDIENTS

PLAY AND STAY-MAKE YOUR NEXT GETAWAY HISTORIC! Downtown St. Petersburg's newest and most historic luxury escape!

THE BIRCHWOOD 340 Beach Drive NE - St. Petersburg, FL 33701

www.TheBirchwood.com • 727-896-1080

House-blessing crosses and altar pieces figure prominently in the designs created by Jan Barboglio, who grew up in northcentral Mexico. Hand-blown frosted glass decanter with steel cross stopper ($250, Neiman Marcus, International Plaza, Tampa; neimanmarcus.com) sits atop a raffia nest. Photograph by Scott Keeler

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JUNE 2015

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spirits move you If the

BY LAURA REILEY

n 2005 there were about 50 microdistilleries in the United States. A decade later, there are 10 times that number. But these are not the deep-woods pot stills that produced bootleg hooch during Prohibition. This new breed of distillers follows on the heels of craft breweries, artisanal breads and all DIY food businesses. The trend is about selfexpression and intrepid entrepreneurship, not to mention capitalizing on the locavore and â&#x20AC;&#x153;small is beautifulâ&#x20AC;? movements. Florida has 15 registered distilleries. Not all of them are fully operational at this time, a couple are large distilleries and one makes vinegar, but the rest are bona fide microdistillers bringing a range of elegant new products to market. From whiskey to rum, bourbon and vodka, here are some of the stateâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most dynamic boutique distilleries, their high-test quaffables available at Total Wine, ABC stores and Publix.

JUNE 2015

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DRUM CIRCLE DISTILLING Troy Roberts’ Siesta Key Gold Rum was one of the first in the state to set its sights on small-batch rums. These days they are available in 14 states, and Drum Circle produces 65,000 bottles a year with a growing product line made of highest-grade molasses from Florida sugar cane. The most popular is Siesta Key Spiced Rum (about $20), which took first prize in the world’s largest rum competition (no mean feat for a spiced rum, usually considered less “serious”), and the Siesta Key Distiller’s Reserve Spiced Rum (about $50), which uses the solera system whereby new rum is added to older rum for a more nuanced blend. The June issue of Wine Enthusiast gives the reserve a whopping 94 points. In addition to Siesta Key Silver ($20) and the barrelaged Siesta Key Gold ($25), Siesta Key Toasted Coconut ($25), released in December, is flying out the doors: “We can’t keep up with production,” Roberts says. “It’s the only coconut rum that doesn’t smell like suntan lotion because it actually uses real coconut in an infusion.” Beyond that, Roberts has tinkered with collaborations with Cigar City Brewing in Tampa and JDub’s Brewing in Sarasota, using beer barrels to age Beer Barrel Spiced Rum ($35), barrels that then go back to the brewery to impart rum flavors to future beers. Talk about a recycling program.

FLORIDA DISTILLERY The idea for the Tampa Bay area’s first premium handcrafted, microdistilled vodka made entirely of Florida ingredients started as a hostess-gift conundrum. Lee and Sarah Nelson wanted to take Danish friends something that screamed “Florida” loud and clear. With partner Pat O’Brien, they launched their distillery in 2012, opening a tasting room the next year in the curiously spelled Faulkenburg Centre on Falkenburg Road in Tampa. These days they have 10 different flavors of Cane Vodka (about $30), all of them starting with Florida cane sugar and filtered water drawn from the Floridan aquifer. From there, it continues to be Sunshine State all the way: from Orlando orange to Key West lemon/lime to Plant City strawberry to even a Florida Fire Ant jalapeno vodka. Following the cultish enthusiasm recently for moonshine (unaged whiskey also called “white dog”), they debuted Sunshine Moonshine last year and launched a gin called Tamiami Gin in January. Lee Nelson says the city of Tampa has been increasingly welcoming to microdistilleries: A recent status-exemption change means they can now move into a commercial zone; they are looking to relocate to downtown Tampa in the fall.

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JUNE 2015

FLORIDA FARM DISTILLERS Dick and Marti Waters bought their gorgeous still from Copper Moonshine Stills in Arkansas in 2008, but they didn’t start operations for their Palm Ridge Reserve until 2009, repurposing their 10-stall horse barn just outside of Umatilla. Their initial product was a 90-proof young Florida Bourbon-style whiskey (about $50) mellowed with toasted oak and orange wood and left to finish in small charred-oak barrels. It has garnered raves from Jim Murray’s Whisky Bible. (He gave it a 94.5 out of 100.) More recently, they debuted a rye (also around $50) that has been similarly received. It bears a family resemblance to the bourbon, but with characteristic rye spiciness, and thus far is produced in a limited quantity. Dick Waters has been a tireless booster for the growing microdistillery community in Florida, working to change legislation in Tallahassee that has made it an uphill battle for the state’s boutique liquor brands. In 2013, the passage of House Bill 347 did away with a vestige of Prohibition, finally allowing distilleries in the state to sell directly to the public. And there are more bills on the horizon. That said, the Waterses’ operation is rural enough that a tasting room doesn’t make much sense. Most days, their efforts are overseen by a couple of old dogs and some hopeful cows over the fence that know once the mash made of corn, barley malt, rye and toasted flake rye is spent, it’s all theirs.

WINTER PARK DISTILLING CO. Winter Park has more than its share of artisanal food businesses, but you can’t hold that against distiller Paul Twyford. He started the company in 2010 with business partner Andrew Asher, debuting corn-based Genius Vodka (mid $20s) in 2011. “I had taken a trip out West to see some vineyards and craft breweries and stumbled upon these craft distilleries,” he says. “It was the front edge of that wave. So I came back to Florida and wondered why we don’t we have craft distilleries. I thought the time was ripe for this.” Last year they produced about 1,000 cases, split among the vodka, Bear Gully Classic blended whiskey (mid $20s), Bear Gully Classic Reserve Bourbon (a very traditional Kentucky-style, $40s), and a just-released Bear Gully Classic Bonfire bourbon ($40s). Of this last, Twyford says, “We wanted to take a left turn and do something unique and different, so we made this smoky oak, earthy bourbon. That’s part of the fun of being a craft distiller.” Winter Park also has entered into some unique collaborations, most recently working with Haven in Tampa to produce a house bourbon for the new Bern’s Steak House sibling.

JUNE 2015

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NJOY SPIRITS Kevin and Natalie Goff took their inspiration from Natalie’s dad, an Irishman with a propensity for good whiskies and cigars. Twelve years ago they got the bug, aiming to grow rye on their 80 acres in the cypress woods near Weeki Wachee and then to produce a small-batch rye whiskey with their own grain. They debuted Wild Buck Rye Whiskey ($59.99) in April, the first 30 cases going out to a distributor. And while it’s just making it into stores now, the whiskey world has taken note: The Goffs recently won a bronze medal at the American Distilling Institute’s 2015 Spirits Competition in San Francisco, a notable accomplishment for newcomers, with 457 spirit entries as competition. It was an uphill battle. The 80-acre parcel had to be changed from agricultural zoning to a distillery. Since Hernando County doesn’t have a distillery designation, they had to be put under the winery category of businesses. Meanwhile, Kevin, the distiller, purchased his hand-hammered copper pot still from Portugal and set up shop with holding tanks and barrels, aging the debut product for 14 months. Down the pike, Natalie says they are looking to produce a boutique rum, but for now their aims are producing a high-quality product in small quantities. “We don’t want to be a Jack Daniel’s,” said Natalie. “We want to be a craft boutique product. The public has a new interest in green products and homegrown. They’re supporting the craft movement and demanding something different.”

A column still, left, and stripping still are among the tools Michael Cotherman and Tara Cupp will use to distill batches of vodka, whiskey and gin at Cotherman Distilling.

COTHERMAN DISTILLING Located right in the “Beer-muda Triangle,” as Michael Cotherman calls the craft beer smorgasbord that is Dunedin, this newcomer took occupancy of its space at 933 Huntley Ave. in March. Open to the public from 4 to 8 p.m. Fridays, it will first showcase 727 Vodka, followed by Half Mine Gin (this one is Cotherman’s wife Tara Cupp’s baby, an American citrusy style, as opposed to the more junipery London style), with an eventual goal of making American single-malt whiskey. “It will be a year or two before the whiskey is released,” Cotherman says. “We’re still working on a name for it, but it will have something to do with my fifth-generation greatgrandfather Jacob Catherman being traded to the British during the Revolutionary War for a 5-gallon barrel of whiskey.” Admittedly new to the distilling business, Cotherman brings up an excellent point: “Unlike with craft beer, where home brewers can practice for years before going pro, it’s a felony to practice distilling.”

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JUNE 2015

ST. PETERSBURG DISTILLERY

The newest distillery to open in the bay area, St. Petersburg Distillery already has won accolades for its Old St. Pete artisanal vodka, one of four products in its initial lineup. It recently expanded its offerings with a spiced rum, a coconut rum and a mead.

Perhaps the newest distillery to burst onto the scene, this 2015 addition already nabbed a double gold medal for its Old St. Pete artisanal vodka ($39.99) and for Tippler’s 100 percent Florida temple orange cordial liqueur ($21.99) at the recent Wine and Spirit Wholesalers of America convention. Director of product development Daniel Undhammar says the initial lineup features four products in the Old St. Pete line: In addition to the vodka, there’s a gin, whiskey and rum. The gin is in a Florida style as well, using the entire citrus (juice and peel) of the state’s oranges, lemons and pink grapefruit (something really only Tanqueray No. 10 has claimed), as well as 13 botanicals such as star anise, green cardamom and coriander seeds in addition to the requisite juniper. The distillery has two copper pot stills reassembled from the 1930s, with cool old-timey St. Petersburg postcards slid into every bottle’s box. The newcomer also has added a mead, a spiced rum and a coconut rum, and a premium corn vodka called Banyan Reserve. Products are just making their way into retail stores now, but St. Petersburg restaurants such as Station House, Sea Salt, Cask & Ale, and Mandarin Hide are pouring them for curious, and thirsty, locals.

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F E AT U R E D P R O P E R T I E S

AC TI

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From the Gulf to the Bay JULIA BRAZIER AND TRACY REYES Deﬁne Luxury Living...

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400 Beach Drive Penthouse Incredible views from this Estate Penthouse on the waterfront of downtown St. Petersburg. This three bedroom, three and a half baths home is over 4,500 feet of luxury. Features include stainless steel appliances, gas fireplace, gourmet kitchen with gas range and butler’s pantry, two large balconies. Offered at $2,700,000. Contact Julia Brazier 727-403-2237 or Tracy Reyes 727-743-2853

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.REYES@GMAIL.COM

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TIERRA VERDE

727-867-3100

11385 5th St E, Treasure Island Beautifully updated three bedroom, two bath waterfront home in Isle of Palms, Treasure Island. Boater’s paradise, only 10 minutes to open water. Home has been recently updated with a new roof, windows, wood floors, quartz counters, double ovens and induction stove. Swim or relax in the 14ft heated swim spa. Offered at $650,000. Contact Julia Brazier 727-403-2237 or Tracy Reyes 727-743-2853

wrap it up

LOVELY IN LINEN Utilitarian fabric gets a festive treatment in aprons and tabletop decor from Heirloomed, the 2015 rebranding of IceMilk Aprons. The collection is inspired by traditions such as home-baked birthday cakes, hand-sewn treasures, handwritten letters and other time-honored family traditions. — Mary Jane Park

“Rollings of Cinnamon” full-wrap apron in sweet oatmeal linen ($85 and up) has a billowing black sash. All aprons arrive packaged in a large preserves jar with story card and three blank recipe cards. Monogramming and other personalization available; thread color matches sash. heirloomedcollection.com

JUNE 2015

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At left, details of monogrammed “Frosty Tin Marshmallows” full-wrap apron in cream, with oatmeal linen adornment ($85 and up). The colors are inspired by holiday provisioning. At right, “Morning Bun Moments” full-wrap apron in oatmeal with toast (brown) sash tie ($85 and up) was inspired by a breakfast bun purchased on vacation in a little bakery in California wine country. Personalization available in thread color to match sash.

46 bay

JUNE 2015

Vintage silver and flowers fresh from the garden star atop neutral-colored linen. Set of four 18-inch-square napkins ($36) and table runners ($46 and up) are packaged in kraft bags reminiscent of a market bakery and tied with a single waxed thread cord. Personalization available.

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50 bay

JUNE 2015

Dish it up First lady Nancy Reagan made headlines during the 1980s with the scarlet-emblazoned china service she ordered for use at state dinners. The Clintons used soft yellow; the Bushes of the 2000s, pale green. The most recent presidential pattern debuted in April: The Obamas commissioned a design in bright blue. Much less formal are the serving pieces on this and subsequent pages, but they also make a statement: namely, that attractive table settings help to establish the mood for both hosts and guests. Patterns, embellishments and color factor into a universe of choices in department stores and elsewhere. With an abundance of clay and glass artists throughout the Tampa Bay area, it is possible to commission a signature piece, even a custommade set, to fully express oneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s unique sense of style. And numerous galleries and studios offer classes in which patrons can create their own. The distinctive patterns here set the stage for many an enjoyable event. â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Mary Jane Park

Hand-painted serving ware by Galina Chehirian. Plates ($46), bowls ($44), and trays, set of three ($225). Represented by Florida CraftArt, 501 Central Ave., St. Petersburg; floridacraftart.org Photographs by Scott Keeler

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TEXTURED Stylists often use neutral backdrops to showcase colorful elements such as food and flowers. See how the pink of the tulip pops against gray and white? Bright green apples or glistening red cherries would look splendid here, as would a whole smoked salmon. All of the pieces are reversible, with smooth surfaces on one side, structured on the other.

Stonelike Corian serveware in achromatic gray and white. Above, right: medium basket platter ($75), white-handle coral design spreader ($11.95) from Lunares. Above: Gravity platter ($175), large Basket platter ($95), small Basket plate ($55), all by S2BH. All items from Tampa Museum of Art Store, 120 W Gasparilla Plaza, Tampa; (813) 421-8386.

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WHIMSICAL MacKenzie-Childs Enamelware Collection: Courtly Check charger ($48), Butterfly Garden dinner plate ($38), Courtly Check salad/dessert plate ($36), Butterfly Garden breakfast bowl ($38), Butterfly Garden mug ($38), napkin ($32) and Kim Seybert Constellation napkin ring ($24). All from Neiman Marcus.

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WOV E N Juliska Le Panier Collection tableware in whitewash, chambray and almond. Chambray charger plate ($72), Whitewash dinner plate ($40), Almond dessert/salad plate ($38). Antique Paisley napkin ($20) and Knot napkin ring ($22). All from Neiman Marcus.

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GOLDEN Kim Seybert Shakti Collection: Seaglass charger ($198), Crackle Opal dinner plate ($48), Seaglass bowl ($69), Brocade Border linen napkin ($37) and Ivory Flower napkin ring ($22). All from Neiman Marcus.

JUNE 2015

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Aged to Perfection BY MARY JANE PARK

PHOTOGRAPHS BY CHERIE DIEZ

Nostalgia may be the first reason to stop into Brooklyn South, a smallish eatery on St. Petersburg’s Central Avenue. A hankering for a knish, perhaps, a craving for a cream soda, or a corned beef sandwich with Peter Luger Steak Sauce. Tastes of the old neighborhood. Owner Matt Bonano is in the kitchen most days, where he also turns out potpies, pulled pork, his Special Recipe Lasagna and, interestingly, Southern-style beans and greens. Wait for your order to be prepared, and you may be amazed at what else you’ll find in this tiny jewel box of a store: pickled French plums and other small-batch condiments, Banyuls vinegar, charcuterie and cheeses — from Europe, of course, and from producers throughout the United States. Cheese is a component of the sandwiches he offers: the turkey with Taleggio and tomato, the smoked salmon with chevre and tomato, the ham with Brie and caramelized apples, the tuna salad with Gruyere and capers. It is also the core of his avocation, for Bonano is a practitioner of affinage, the fine art of aging and maturing cheese. Bonano, 45, a member of the American Cheese Society, has worked in the cheese caves in Artisanal Premium Cheese and was wholesale production manager for Murray’s Cheese, both in New York, and at Alon’s Bakery in Atlanta and Mazzaro’s Italian Market in St. Petersburg.

The Rosemary Chicken with Fresh Mozzarella sandwich is one of the many delectable combinations offered at Brooklyn South, a small restaurant in downtown St. Petersburg.

JUNE 2015

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Brooklyn South owner Matt Bonano shows off some of the cheeses available at his store. Clockwise, from the Bayley Hazzen Blue he holds, are Tomme De Savoie, a quarter piece and a half round of Green Bench raclette, two Lil Scotts, Manchego, and Bay Blue. Bonano specializes in European and American artisan cheeses. He also practices the art of affinage, the careful practice of aging and maturing cheeses.

He brush-scrubs a square of Pont l’Eveque, then washes it with cider, “since Normandy is famous for its apples,” he says. Over time, the cider enhances the flavor of the pungent Norman product, which turns “a little gooey” in the process, Bonano says. A round of meltable Raclette gets the treatment with locally produced Green Bench Imperial Amber. “It infuses some sort of yeasty flavor to it,” he says. With 3 Toed Paw Belgian Pale and Scottish Ale from St. Pete Brewing Co., “I wanted to create a stinky cheese,” he says. “Like a Muenster or Limburger.” (The cheese with the Scottish Ale he calls “Lil Scott.”) Plastic storage containers become miniature “caves,” and the chef tends to the alchemy: “I air them out, turn them, and let them bloom out,” he says, his brevity of description failing to fully describe the painstaking effort he takes. As the New York Times once put it: “Affinage is the careful practice of ripening cheese, but it’s about much more than simply letting a few stinky wheels sit until some magical buzzer goes off. For those who believe the affinage gospel, it is about a series of tedious, ritualized procedures (washing, flipping, brushing, patting, spritzing) that are meant to inch each wheel and wedge toward an apex of delectability.” ‘‘They all have to work together in harmony,” Bonano says. “It’s starting to figure out your cave. The nuance of it.”

Bonano uses cider and local craft beers in the process of aging cheese, including St. Pete Brewing Co.’s Scottish Ale, Green Bench Brewing Co.’s Imperial Ale and St. Pete Brewing Co.’s Belgian IPA.

At right, a sampling of the assortment foodie gifts and specialty items from across the United States and Europe that are available at Brooklyn South in St. Petersburg. Next page, Bonano pours Green Bench Imperial Ale on a round of raclette. Next, he will brush the ale into the rind of the cheese. “It infuses some sort of yeasty flavor to it,” he says.

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They all have to work together in harmony. It’s starting to figure out your cave. The nuance of it.” MATT BONANO, ON THE ART OF RIPENING CHEESES

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Topped by a sprinkle of magic BY LAURA REILEY

veryone attending a magic show is of two minds. One part of the prefrontal cortex is shouting, “It’s a trick! I see the strings! It’s done with magnets!” At the same time, another corner of the brain is whispering, “I want to believe. Make me believe.” So is it with a visit to the Four Seasons Resort Orlando at Walt Disney World, opened in August. Wait, how did the guy pouring cucumber water at the pool know my name? And that bellhop, he knows me, too. Yes, it’s probably smoke and mirrors, but after a while I’m willing to just go with “magic.” The first AAA Five Diamond-rated hotel in Central Florida, the sprawling 5-acre property boasts six restaurants in wildly different themes and with dramatically different decor, so much so that a drive off property hardly seems necessary for a weekend stay. On a recent visit smack in the middle of spring break, the tranquil gardens would fleetingly squirm with young kids

and their families, only to clear out as Orlando’s theme parks exerted their sirens’ call — leaving those of us progeny-free to enjoy the salubrious effects of tubing on the lazy river or deep inner-eyelid examination. In fact, I had a serious agenda in visiting the hotel. For years I was a staunch booster of Fabrizio Schenardi, the Torino, Italy-born executive chef of Tampa’s Pelagia at the Renaissance International Plaza. He made these meatstuffed fried olives, golden little guys that were savory and salty and crunchy and ... sorry, what was I talking about? Schenardi decamped several years ago to the Four Seasons in St. Louis, but Florida’s climate stayed with him like a sultry (okay, humid) memory. He dropped me an email last year to let me know he’d jumped on board to be the executive chef of the new Orlando hotel.

Small dishes are one choice at the 17th-floor steakhouse and tapas restaurant. Photographs courtesy Four Seasons Resort Orlando

JUNE 2015

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Vegetables add a splash of color to the dinner table.

Golden beets are artfully presented.

He brought with him a team of chefs from previous gigs, loyal guys who make it clear that Schenardi is the kind of leader who rules through a heady cocktail of good example, work ethic and a soupcon of intimidation. He himself oversees Ravello, the stunning indoor-outdoor first-floor restaurant specializing in modern Italian. Family-friendly, and with a price point that won’t spook the horses, it offers breakfast and dinner, our dinner visit a many-houred affair, cut short only by the promise of the Disney fireworks display visible from our room’s balcony. Guess what? The olives are there ($9), their centers a juicy mix of pork and veal, the olives’ breadcrumb coating delicate. As it happened, they weren’t even the most notable dish of the meal, those honors going to a strozzapreti dish (long twists of housemade pasta that translates as “priest chokers,” something that likely requires major absolution) topped with velvety braised lamb with a bit of tomato and bell pepper and a sprinkling of tiny, fruity Taggiasca olives ($24).

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JUNE 2015

The sprawling 5-acre property boasts six restaurants in wildly different themes and with dramatically different decors, so much so that a drive off property hardly seems necessary for a weekend stay. Or maybe the crisp-skinned whole pan-seared branzino sitting atop plush borlotti beans with hints of garlic and bright olive oil dotted with crunchy demi-moons of celery heart ($34). Ravello features a wood-burning pizza oven with counter seats, a long and glamorous concrete-topped bar, lounge area, private dining and adjacent demo kitchen that looks like it would be dreamy as a rental. (Cooking as a teambuilding exercise? Let’s talk to human resources.) That’s a lot of slick bells and whistles, all of which seem irrelevant as you contentedly munch a platter of Italian cookies: amaretti, crumiri and stunning little biscotti morbidi con ricotta ($12), all the glorious handiwork of Moroccan pastry chef Rabii Saber. The next morning, post-yoga and pool lounging, we sidled over the poolside walkway to the mostly outdoor PB&G (could that be Peanut Butter & Gele?) to share a generous Asian salad studded with seared ahi swaths, cilantro, cabbage, cashews and crisp strips of fried wonton, all with a balanced peanut dressing ($22). Keep it light, we said, in order to graze pre-dinner at the Lobby Bar happy hour (4 to 6 p.m. half-price drink specials) at which smartly uniformed cocktail waitresses swoop by with a platter of snackies from time to time (little cheese or chicken-liver crostini or togarashi mixed nuts). We shouldn’t have eaten the nuts: Dinner at the 17thfloor rooftop steakhouse and Spanish tapas restaurant Capa proved to be an embarrassment of riches. Steak and tapas? A remarkably agreeable combo in the hands of peripatetic restaurant chef Tim Dacey. (He’s a Florida State grad, so let’s claim him.) Head for the porterhouse for two and you’re firmly in splurge territory ($110), but an array of small bites, appetizers and sides turn the table into something as fetching as Bergdorf’s holiday windows. There were jewel-like plates of hamachi juxtaposed with clementine lengths and fluffs of peppery horseradish ($12), vibrant sauteed Swiss chard speckled with raisins and pine nuts ($9), a little glazed ceramic bowl of smoky, grill-warmed Arbequina, Gordal and Empeltre olives ($4)

Patatas Bravas is just one of the small dishes offered.

Steaks are seasoned to perfection at Capa on the 17th floor of the resort.

Citrus and floral accents garnish a refreshment at the Four Seasons in Orlando.

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and a pedestrian-sounding chicken and rice dish ($32) that proved to be stunningly tender with juicy poussin perched atop a MahĂłn-lush spin on risotto. Patio diners get the view of those fireworks, and other parts of the dining room can take in the proceedings in the open kitchen, but every table gets to ogle something lovely on these plates. Mid-dinner, Schenardi breezed by for a chat â&#x20AC;&#x201D; family life, Florida tourism and gelato, a lot of talk about gelato. Turns out, the hotel is selling gallons of the stuff every day, churned on-site. Thus, the next morning we found ourselves at Lickety Split, the gelato and coffee bar on the lobby level. Gelato for breakfast? Pure research, the smiling scooper not remotely flummoxed. But come to think of it, she was one of the few staffers who didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t seem to know my name. No matter; my time at the Four Seasons nearing its end, it was probably time for the magic spell to be broken.

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Raise a cup BY LENNIE BENNETT

e are, on average, 65 percent water. Thus, our bodies are in constant need of replenishment. We learned early in our evolution that lapping water from a river or scooping it by the handful into our mouths were inefficient delivery systems and necessitated constant proximity to a source. And so, the vessel. At first, vessels came from what was nearby: a hollowed-out stone, a shell. Then we learned to fabricate â&#x20AC;&#x201D; a pouch made from animal skin, for example, that could be slung over a shoulder and carried anywhere. We began settling down during the Neolithic period about 12,000 years ago, transitioning from hunter-gatherers to agrarian communities that stayed put. As early as 6,000 B.C., we discovered that the grapes and grains we grew tasted darned good when fermented into a heady alchoholic liquid. So liquid became not just a need but a desire. And we began crafting vessels from materials we could shape and design ourselves rather than relying on Mother Nature for them. Examples from ancient civilizations throughout the world can be found in metal, clay and glass.

6th century B.C.

Bucchero Kantharos (Drinking Cup) Etruscan Ceramic Tampa Museum of Art, Gift of Robert and Janette Moody 1986.277

The kantharos was the favorite drinking cup of the wine god Dionysos.

JUNE 2015

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The Tampa Museum of Art has an exceptional collection from the Greeks and Romans who excelled at creating vessels that were decorative as well as utilitarian. Some were small, for individual consumption; others were enormous, for group celebrations. The celebratory ones are, of course, the most elaborate. A lot of history lies between those vessels and what we use today. Most important, glass is the primary material now rather than clay because in the 19th century, new formulas and processes changed it from a hand-made luxury to massproduced affordability. But just as in ancient times, our drinking vessels are not always just receptacles. We, too, like embellishments. In the following pages, we take a look back at early examples and leap forward to contemporary ones. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s fun to think that in future millennia, our examples, should they survive, will be held up to comparison as those from a distant past.

THEN 1350-1200 B.C.

Kylix (Stemmed Drinking Cup) Greek, Attic, (Late Helladic IIIA-B) Ceramic

Seth Pevnick, chief curator and Richard E. Perry curator of Greek and Roman art at the Tampa Museum, selected choice examples of ancient vessels from the permanent collection, each having a specific purpose. Embellishments on them were often narratives of the godsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; lives since clay lent itself to painting.

Tampa Museum of Art, Joseph Veach Noble Collection 1986.019

3000-2800 B.C.

Kandila (Collared Jar with Conical Foot) Early Cycladic I Marble Tampa Museum of Art, Gift of the Sahlman Family 2005.011

Despite the name, the ancient kandila, which means lamp, probably served a storage function, though perhaps in a ritual context.

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750-725 B.C.

600 B.C.

Triple Skyphos (Drinking Cup) Greek, Attic, Late Geometric II Ceramic

Bucchero Chalice (Footed Cup) with Relief Decoration Etruscan Ceramic

Tampa Museum of Art, Joseph Veach Noble Collection 1986.020

Tampa Museum of Art, Gift of Robert and Janette Moody 1986.282

This single vase made to look like three likely made a lavish tomb gift.

Bucchero pottery is the most characteristic ceramic ware of the ancient Etruscans.

540-530 B.C.

Black-Figure Kylix (Little Master Cup) Attributed to the Tleson Painter Greek, Attic Ceramic Tampa Museum of Art, Joseph Veach Noble Collection, purchased in part with funds donated by Marvin and Trudy Barkin 1986.050

This cup bears a message inscribed in Greek: “Greetings, and drink well.”

510-500 B.C.

Red-Figure Kylix (Drinking Cup) Exterior attributed to the Euergides Painter Greek, Attic Ceramic Tampa Museum of Art, Joseph Veach Noble Collection, purchased in part with funds donated by Costas Lemonopoulos 1986.085

440 B.C. 470 B.C.

Janiform Kantharos (Drinking Cup) Greek, Attic Ceramic Tampa Museum of Art, Joseph Veach Noble Collection 1986.091

This unusual wine cup combines representations of a satyr and a maenad, the male and female followers of Dionysos, with the high handles of the wine god’s favorite cup type.

Red-Figure Calyx Krater (Mixing Vessel) Attributed to the Menelaos Painter Greek, Attic Ceramic Tampa Museum of Art, Joseph Veach Noble Collection, purchased in part with funds donated by Trenam, Simmons, Kemker, Scharf, Barkin, Frye and O’Neill, P.A. 1986.075

The krater was specially designed to mix and hold large amounts of water and wine — because no civilized Greek drank unmixed wine.

530-520 B.C. Black-Figure Eye Cup Greek, Attic (Chalcidizing) Ceramic

Tampa Museum of Art, Joseph Veach Noble Collection, purchased in part with funds donated by Craig and Mary Wood 1986.051

This cup seems to depict the face of a satyr on either side of its exterior. As the drinker tilted the cup to his mouth, it would serve as a sort of mask.

Photographs by James Borchuck and the Tampa Museum of Art. Drinking vessels are in the museum’s permanent collection.

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Above, Juliska Berry & Thread Amalia Stemless Red Wine glass ($52), and Amalia Tulip Clear flute ($68). Neiman Marcus.

Left and right: Match Pewter Martini Glass ($100); and Liqueur glass ($55). Neiman Marcus. Blue glass hand-painted by Galina Chehirian, (set of four, $170). Represented by Florida CraftArt.

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NOW We tend to prize a beautifully formed glass vessel for its transparent and reflective qualities, so our decorative tastes tend toward elaborating forms and adding color rather than obscuring the surface with paint. As in ancient times, though, various shapes have various uses: a tumbler for water or spirits, a flute for sparkling wine, a snifter for brandy.

Baccarat XL Chateau Red Wine glass (set of two, $260); Vega Martini glass ($175); Mille Nuits glass ($175); Vega Flutissimo Clear ($260). Neiman Marcus. Photographs by Scott Keeler

JUNE 2015

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N OW Martini glasses hand-painted by Galina Chehirian, (set of four, $180). Represented by Florida CraftArt. Photograph by Scott Keeler JUNE 2015

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Make a splash BY MARY JANE PARK PHOTOGRAPHS BY JOHN PENDYGRAFT

ivid color makes waves everywhere this summer in influences for relaxation and play. Your classic black one-piece never will go out of style, but statement accessories such as earrings, necklaces and bracelets — even patterned pareos — can add interest and intrigue. Ethnic and tropical prints also are enduring themes: Add coverups and footwear in daring palettes for an even more striking look. No need to fear mixing up patterns: That’s part of the fun. Think of the array of images in a kaleidoscope.

VaVa color-block top ($16), orange link necklace with gold trim ($48), both Repeat Performance Boutique, 4343 Henderson Blvd., #160, Tampa; (813) 251-5468.

Blue patio dress (personal collection); painted wooden cuff ($15), both Repeat Performance Boutique.

Nuevo Sol bandeau one-piece from Trina Turk ($140), Cerulean Blu Resort & Swimwear Boutique, 400 Beach Drive NE, No. 161, St. Petersburg; (727) 498-8984. Yellow leather jacket from Carlisle ($95), Repeat Performance Boutique.

get hot Some of us like it hot. We are drawn toward the sun and nearby beaches and swimming pools. Gulf breezes and afternoon storms cool things sufficiently for us. After that, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s time to dive into the deep end again.

Black-and-white split overlay bandeau by Tara Grinna ($159), Cerulean Blu Resort & Swimwear Boutique.

reflect

Tropical floral-patterned swing dress ($25), Repeat Performance Boutique.

Left, Kon Tiki one-piece by Trina Turk ($148), Cerulean Blu Resort & Swimwear Boutique. Chevron blazer by Hatley ($109), Cerulean Blu Resort & Swimwear Boutique. Dannijo earrings ($250), Repeat Performance Boutique. Orange and cream zigzag pattern top ($6), Repeat Performance Boutique. Statement necklace ($20), Repeat Performance Boutique. Bajo Un Mismo Sol openside swim bottom by Luli Fama ($90), Cerulean Blu Resort & Swimwear Boutique.

be cool

dance Left: Seafolly Sonic Boom onepiece swimsuit ($152), Cerulean Blu Resort & Swimwear Boutique. Blue leather moto jacket ($225), Repeat Performance Boutique. Leather and stone cuff with magnetic snap ($60), Repeat Performance Boutique. Right: Shimmer laser cutout maillot by Seafolly ($149), Cerulean Blu Resort & Swimwear Boutique. Turquoise and silver wire bracelet ($18), Repeat Performance Boutique. Leather strands bracelet with gold detail ($8), Repeat Performance Boutique. Hair and makeup: Suzin Moon Wardrobe stylist: Valerie Romas, one2styleu.com Models from Stella Runway, Bradenton

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ESSENTIAL E L E M E N TS Scientists tell us that there are five primary tastes: sweet, salty, sour, bitter and umami. And recent published papers indicate that they soon may add a sixth. Fat, which lends a delicious juiciness to meats and gives a sybaritic silkiness to many other dishes, certainly triggers some receptors on our tongues. Weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll leave it to academics to figure out the details as we explore the universe of flavor.

SUGAR SALT FAT

Fresh berries and angel food cake are suspended in lemon chantilly cream for a rich combination of flavors. Photograph by Melissa Lyttle

Menu offerings at the new Castile Restaurant & Rooftop Lounge, St. Pete Beach, include Baked Oysters served on top of a Himalayan Salt Block. Photograph by Scott Keeler

M.F.K. FISHER, An Alphabet for Gourmets, “U is for Universal”

SALTY

There is, it seems, no substitute for NaCl. There is no faking its fine stimulus, its artful aid — except to use it with more respectful attention to its basic powers and dangers; except, perhaps, to taste it for a change, instead of taking it for granted.”

Mix and match these pewter and glass salt-and-pepper shaker sets ($19.99 small; $21.99 large) for maximum tabletop fun. ZaZoo’d, 531 Central Ave., St. Petersburg; (727) 344-9663. Photograph by Lara Cerri

-Salt Shakers

Caramelized Banana Tart with white chocolate mousse, fresh fruit and sea salt caramel prepared by Chef Paul Syms at Dulcet Restaurant & Lounge in downtown New Port Richey. Photograph by Brendan Fitterer

DODIE SMITH, Capture the Castle

SWEET

I shouldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t think even millionaires could eat anything nicer than new bread and real butter and honey for tea.â&#x20AC;?

Skirt Steak & Marrow Bone with green olive marmalade and malbec chimichurri served at Haven in Tampa. Photograph by Octavio Jones

FAT Julia Child, goddess of fat, is beaming somewhere. Butter is back, and when you’re looking for a few chunks of pork for a stew, you can resume searching for the best pieces — the ones with the most fat.” MARK BITTMAN. New York Times

Tomahawk beefsteak from Locale Market, St. Petersburg Photograph by Patty Yablonski

Grillworks calls its Infierno professional series “stages upon which chefs conduct an open-fire symphony.” The very first Infierno 154 is in Miami, in Tom Colicchio’s Beachcraft restaurant. It retails above $81,000. grillworks.com Photograph from Grillworks

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The Weber Blue Performer Deluxe Charcoal Grill is a scaled-up version of its classic kettle, with spacious cooking surface, hinged grate, painted metal work table, LCD cook timer and built-in thermometer. It has a push-button ignition system, charcoal fuel holders and charcoal storage container. $499. Crate & Barrel, 2201 N West Shore Blvd., Tampa; crateandbarrel.com

With its brass brushes and pushbutton automation, the Grillbot robotic tool ($130) acts like a Roomba for cleaning dirty grills. Brushes are easily removed and dishwasher safe; the product is manufactured in four colors and is offered by numerous major retailers and at grillbots.com.

Photograph from Crate & Barrel

Photograph from New York Times

Sizzle it

GRANDIOSE GRILLS Once they managed to control the spread of flames, the ancients used deep pits, earthen bowls and hot stones to cook their food. Even now, the very basics for grilling can be distilled to fire, fuel and smoke. Natural-gas, propane and electric models offer convenience and safety, particularly indoors, but traditionalists hew to hardwoods and charcoal. Kettle grills are fixtures in nearly every area where people cook outdoors, and there are other trends: Domed versions modeled on Asian kamados are popular now, and custom Grillworks machines have developed a cult following, inspired by developer Charles Eisendrathâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s travels as a correspondent for Time, through which he enjoyed meals cooked over open fires in a number of cultures. The designs appeal to professionals and amateurs alike and are sold through his Grillworks operation in Michigan.

Above: Grillworksâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Infierno 64 professional model is a freestanding version that can be used indoors or out. $28,775. Photograph from Grillworks

JUNE 2015

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Flavor it

GET SAUCY Beef or pork, sauce or rub, vinegar, mustard or tomato base: More than likely, your preference has to do with your roots. Texas is cattle country. Carolinians argue about regional flavors that often start with pig. There are meccas: Tuscaloosa’s Dreamland and Memphis’ Rendezvous, in an alley near the original Peabody Hotel. As most sensible people know, it’s all good. — Mary Jane Park

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Deep-rimmed porcelain oval cow and pig platters ($9.95 each). Lillie’s Q Smoky and Carolina sauces ($7.95 each). Lillie’s Q Carolina Dirt Rub, ($7.95). Champion Chicago pitmaster Charlie McKenna is the mind behind all of those and the Urban Accents Grilling Rubs trio ($14.95) for poultry, seafood and steak. All items, Crate & Barrel, 2201 N West Shore Blvd., Tampa; crateandbarrel.com Photograph by Scott Keeler

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GOING LOCAL BY MICHELLE STARK

A four-hour sous vide pork jowl from Pasture Prime Farms, near Ocala. A deconstructed bread pudding made with cane syrup from Plant City. A salad made with pea shoots from Glory Roads Farm. These are just some of the dishes being created by Tampa Bay chefs from locally sourced ingredients. The words “local” and “sustainable” are popping up on more and more menus, but what does it mean to commit to the practice? To wipe the dirt off your vegetables when they arrive? To create a dish based on the week’s seafood catch? Here is what three chefs who work local ingredients into their restaurant menus on an impressive level have to tell us.

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Owner and chef David Benstock, photographed in St. Petersburg’s Il Ritorno. “We believe everything should be made fresh, made in house, and that way you can taste all the different flavors in the dishes,” he says. Photographs by Sophia Nahli Allison

DAVID BENSTOCK Il Ritorno, St. Petersburg David Benstock is a St. Petersburg native who had his first experience with local ingredients when he moved to Colorado for culinary school (Johnson & Wales) and ended up working at Wolfgang Puck’s Spago restaurant. From there, he traveled to other restaurants and cities that further enforced the idea: At The Modern in New York City, he hit up markets for local produce “at least three times a week;” working in Venice, Italy, a few years back, “we had to make the menu based on what they had at the markets.” So it fits that at Il Ritorno, the downtown St. Petersburg restaurant Benstock opened with his wife, Erica, in 2013, items such as salads and fish dishes change monthly or even weekly depending on what local ingredients they can source. “All of those influences fit into our philosophy at Il Ritorno,” Benstock says. Most of its produce comes from Faithful Farms in Palmetto, things like beets (baby, candy stripe, golden) and shishito peppers. For spring, the restaurant served a seasonal salad made with pea shoots from Glory Road Gardens in Lutz. The coffee is Kahwa Coffee; spices come from Savory Spice Shop on St. Petersburg’s Beach Drive. Il Ritorno uses spear-caught fish including yellowtail snapper and cobia from suppliers in Tampa Bay and South Florida. One week, it didn’t serve fish because the suppliers

weren’t able to deliver any. “We change our menu every couple days because of that sort of thing,” Benstock says. “We have some freedom, so we play around.” Another time, an unexpected delivery of dandelion leaves from a produce supplier led to a new salad. “We see it as a big opportunity to create. It’s something we can play with, like a lab,” Benstock says. “It’s cooler than knowing what you’re going to get each day.”

Pea shoots from Glory Road Gardens in Lutz are the basis of a seasonal salad at Il Ritorno in St. Petersburg.

Daily entrees change depending on what ingredients are available.

JUNE 2015

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GREG SEYMOUR Pizzeria Gregario, Safety Harbor Local sourcing is not limited to larger cities. Greg Seymour has been at it with his Pizzeria Gregario, a small wood-fired pizzeria he opened in 2013. Like Benstock, Seymour first worked with local products as a professional chef out West (in this case, a pizzeria in Napa Valley), then at Lumiere, near Boston. Seymour knew he wanted to open a pizza place when family ties brought him to the Tampa Bay area in 2008 (learning how to make a good pie “humbled him” in the kitchen), and he wanted to obtain many of his products nearby. Getting to that point wasn’t easy at first. “When I was first able to get the space here for the pizzeria, and I knew I wanted to work with local products, it was a hard barrier,” Seymour says. “Especially being in Safety Harbor, seeking the bulk of the produce locally. I kept knocking on doors — push, push, push — and I got a couple people to do business with me. Once that happened, it opened up a bunch of other doors.” Seymour gets pork from Full Circle in Live Oak, cane syrup from Eco Farm in Plant City, and produce from Tampa. (“It just depends on the time of year. Everglades tomatoes, heirloom Turkish radicchio, beautiful beets, squashes. All seasonal.”) He works with the Suncoast Food Alliance and with Lakeland-based farm Nature Delivered. Seymour says he’s in direct contact with Dakin Dairy in Myakka City and hopes to have a local curd in the works soon. “The majority of my local stuff is produce. I try to move a lot of salad. People would behoove themselves to order a salad when they come here,” he says. “It’s local farms that are producing this stuff, so it’s keeping jobs and money in the Florida economy. They’re simple salads, but people are blown away. And it doesn’t have to travel more than 50 miles.” Seymour makes sausage and meatballs in-house, plus a house-made bresaola, an air-dried, red wine-soaked beef that he uses on a pizza with Fontina cheese, pickled onions and garlic. That cane syrup goes into ice cream sandwiches and a blueberry wine reduction.

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Seymour admits the process can be challenging. “The stuff comes covered in dirt,” he says. “Then sometimes, you think you’ll be getting (a shipment), and the day of delivery something happens, and you got to switch gears. There are some challenges with that.” But for Seymour, it’s worth it. “I’m not one to mess with nature.”

Seymour and his Lombardy pizza with local Fontina cheese, house-cured bresaola (dried beef), pickled Florida onions, garlic and arugula. Photographs by Jim Damaske

A bubbling margherita pizza comes out of the wood-fired oven at Pizzeria Gregario. Seymour uses as many locally sourced ingredients as he can acquire.

Yellow and green zucchini, heirloom basil and Florida onions star in this spring mix at Pizzeria Gregario. â&#x20AC;&#x153;People would behoove themselves to order a salad when they come in here,â&#x20AC;? Seymour says.

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FERRELL ALVAREZ Rooster & the Till, Tampa Ferrell Alvarez opened Rooster & the Till in late 2013 with Ty Rodriguez after stints as a chef at Mise en Place in Tampa and Café Dufrain on Harbour Island. He has been embracing local ingredients since his Mise en Place days. “I think if you want the utmost quality out of your ingredients, and the most fresh approach to your ingredients, both nutrition and flavor-wise, local is a no-brainer way to go,” Alvarez says. “When you ask a kid, ‘Where does your food come from?’, they say a package, a store, they don’t say a farm. They’re so disconnected from that.” His philosophy is evident throughout the menu at Rooster, a 40-seat restaurant that serves mostly small plates. The meat, the fish and a “vast amount” of produce all comes from farms in Florida. (Also on the menu: local Buddy Brew coffee and Hooker Tea.) Menu items include that four-hour sous vide pork jowl from Pasture Prime Farms in Summerfield, served with Swiss chard and pickled turnips, both locally sourced. And one of Rooster’s newest dishes, a head-on shrimp out of Jacksonville served with roasted potatoes, blistered okra and pickled ramp bulbs. The potatoes and the okra are local; so are the eggs in the mayonnaise that goes into the dish. “The only thing that’s not local is the ramps, because they don’t grow here,” Alvarez says. He is quick to point out that Rooster isn’t 100 percent local. In fact, he doesn’t like to use that buzzword on his menu, saying that it has become more of a gimmick or marketing scheme in the restaurant industry. He instead prefers to list the farms where the ingredients originate: pork and chicken from Pasture Prime, produce from Tampa’s Urban Oasis. “You can’t really do (all local) and be progressive because of our climate and the time of the year. What do you do in the summer? So I don’t say that I’m only local. I support locals and my community to the nth degree, but if I want to do something culinarily and it’s not local, I’m going to do it. Like with the ramps.”

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Ferrell Alvarez is one of four restaurateurs who are reshaping the dining landscape in Tampa’s Seminole Heights. Photographs by Monica Herndon

I think if you want the utmost quality out of your ingredients, and the most fresh approach to your ingredients, both nutrition and flavor-wise, local is a no-brainer way to go. When you ask a kid, ‘Where does your food come from?’, they say a package, a store, they don’t say a farm. They’re so disconnected from that.”

The four-hour sous vide pork jowl at Rooster & the Till in Tampa features Anson Mills grits, mustard greens, pickled turnip and crispy pig ear.

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Pete Ketchum, bartender and manager at Proof: Cocktail Club in St. Petersburg, makes his popular tea-infused Negroni adaptation. Photograph by Sophia Nahli Allison

The Smoked Old Fashioned at Craft Street Kitchen in Trinity begins with fire on cedar. Buffalo Trace Bourbon, smoke essence, demerara and walnut bitters complete the cocktail. Photograph by Brendan Fitterer

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Creating a stir BY KATHY SAUNDERS

As kitchen chefs create signature meals, an increasing number of people with culinary chops are crafting designer cocktails. Torching hardwoods such as apple and mesquite captures the smoke in the glass and the whiskey. Those flavors are the most popular at local craft venues, along with blends of tea and fruit. Some bartenders use small smoke guns filled with wood chips, but local experts prefer a more organic method for flavor and flamboyance. “What they are doing is taking a metal strainer and putting it on top of the glass. Then they put pieces of wood on top of the strainer and then torch the wood,” said Jason Fackler, a former bartender and bar manager now working as an account specialist for Premier Beverages. “Once the wood starts to smoke, they put a tin on top of that to hold the smoke flavor and capture that in the cocktail. It infuses into the whole drink and coats the glass.” The trend began with the Old Fashioned, a whiskey or brandy with added sweeteners and bitters, Fackler said. But these infused cocktails are not your dad’s version. Take the Smoked Washington at the Cask & Ale in downtown St. Petersburg. It starts with Campfire, a Scotch, bourbon and rye blend. The mixologists add Averna Amaro, an Italian herbal liqueur, then apple cider, brown sugar and lemon before smoking the glass with apple wood. “It’s a dramatic presentation and a real crowd-pleaser,” Cask & Ale bartender Jeremy Wallace said. “The smoking really brings something to the cocktail that even liqueurs can’t do.” The specialty beverage is especially appealing in the winter, Wallace said. “When you make that drink, it smells up the whole bar and just produces a homey feeling. Who doesn’t love the smell of a fireplace or sitting around a hot fire?” Danny Guess, head bartender at Fly Bar & Restaurant in Tampa, said stronger, fuller and more spirit-driven cocktails are better suited for smoking than are fruitier drinks. “Smoked cocktails are very tricky,” he allowed. “It can be very easy to oversmoke a drink so that it tastes like an ashtray.” Oak, hickory or apple

The Lady Rose cocktail at Tampa’s TeBella Tea Co. blends Earl Grey Rose simple syrup shaken with vodka and raspberry jam, then topped with Champagne and berries. Photograph by Eve Edelheit

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I think there are some really talented mixologists here in Tampa Bay doing some amazing stuff. I think it’s a great national trend, and the local bartenders are really coming into their own.” ABIGAIL STCLAIR, owner, TeBella Photograph by Eve Edelheit

and flavors from ingredients such as coffee beans or cinnamon sticks “can be very overpowering if you aren’t careful,” he said. Wallace, 38, said he also uses teas such as peach for infusions at the Cask & Ale. Abigail StClair, owner of TeBella Tea Company in Tampa, has created a series of recipes of tea-infused cocktails for her wholesale clients. “I think there are some really talented mixologists here in Tampa Bay doing some amazing stuff,” she said. “I think it’s a great national trend, and the local bartenders are really coming into their own.” Tea can be added directly to cocktails to diminish the strength of the alcohol or used in simple syrups, a variety of which she sells. The syrups also can be frozen into cubes and used to chill and flavor drinks. It’s also possible for mixologists to directly infuse the liquor. “I can infuse tea in a bottle of vodka in about six hours,” she said. Afterward, she strains the leaves. “Cocktails need complexity, and tea offers another layer that really adds depth.” Mise en Place in Tampa offers a menu of seasonal drinks steeped with TeBella offerings. The chilled “Apple of My Eye” features Applejack, blended Scotch, house-made sour mix and TeBella Apple Chai Syrup. “Tea offers that added layer of taste, and it opens up a

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door to play with a whole new world of flavors as well,” StClair said. Guess said he often prefers the tea syrups to replace sweeteners such as sugar, honey and agave. As a replacement for water, it softens the whiskey while still adding flavor. “One of our bartenders just made a beautiful drink with Scotch and Amaretto and used a really smoky tea called lapsang souchong to highlight the smoke and iodine notes in the Scotch brought to the drink,” he said. Because they have a “spectrum of flavors,” he said, care should be taken when using teas in cocktails. “It’s not like using a single ingredient that has its own recognizable flavor profile like raspberries, lemon juice or mint.” And tannin from tea can make drinks too bitter. “Most people aren’t expecting their cocktail to be tannic, which means a good deal of balance and restraint must be used in order to craft a tea cocktail deliciously,” he said. Pete Ketchum, manager and head bartender at Proof: Cocktail Club in downtown St. Petersburg, said he serves a vermouth drink infused with oolong tea that is a twist on a classic Negroni. For those he does a cold infusion, steeping the tea in vermouth for at least 48 hours. As an extra twist, he uses trucked-in, completely clear ice, adding a single block to each glass. “The tea just really brings a lot of herbal flavor to the drinks,” he said. “It kind of mellows out the bitterness of a traditional Negroni and brings a little more sweetness to it.” Fackler, 35, said craft cocktails are a big draw locally and likely began globally as a way for mixologists to distance themselves from what he describes as “the bad direction of cocktails in the ’80s and ’90s,” when syrupy liqueurs and soda additives masked the spirits’ true flavors. “I think the days of people drinking vodka sodas are gone, and now it’s a craft,” Wallace said. “We’re chefs making these cocktails.” “We definitely have taken it to another level and are instituting a little more culinary prowess behind the bar,” added Ketchum, 35, a former hotel chef who grew up in Cape Cod. “I think it really just boils down to people kind of wanting a better product. People are being a little more conscious of what they put in their bodies.” At Proof, he said, he uses only pure cane sugars and no high-fructose corn syrup. Next on the horizon? Maybe coffee. Owner John Cullen at the Amsterdam in St. Petersburg uses vanilla-bean and espresso coffees in his craft beers. “The iced coffee cuts down on the alcohol and gives you a little caffeine buzz as well,” he said. “It definitely keeps you awake!”

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DESIGNER CAKE Birthdays merit special celebrations, and the charming greeting cards at left are printed in France on heavy paper stock. The interiors are blank, with ample space for writing a personalized message. Add a cake inspired by one of the images, and a milestone occasion becomes even merrier.

Custom cake created by assistant pastry chef Jordan Venters, St. Pete Bakery, 1961 Fourth St. N, St. Petersburg. Photographs by Lara Cerri

what’s cooking

BY THE BOOK Several Tampa Bay destinations are in the spotlight with the release of three new cookbooks. Sea Salt, in Sundial St. Pete and Naples, Fla., was first out of the gate with its own volume in December ($35). Bern’s Rare & Well Done ($35), which focuses on Tampa’s legendary Bern’s Steak House and its younger kin, including Haven, as well as Elevage Restaurant at the Epicurean, is out this month. And Food + Art ($35), which celebrates the 50th anniversary of the Museum of Fine Arts, St. Petersburg, should be available in the fall. The volumes are for sale at each venue and eventually should be in stock at local bookstores. All are published by Story Farm, Winter Park. Some proceeds from the Bern’s edition will go to the James Beard Foundation’s Scholarship Program. — Mary Jane Park

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146 Claudia Frigeri created Three Keys Jams, now available in a number of markets throughout the Tampa Bay area. Photograph by Scott Keeler

HEART BALL

MAGNOLIA BALL

THE LONGEST TABLE

TAMPA GENERAL

ST. PETE OPERA

Several big pledges help the April gala raise more than $1 million: Page 152

Donors give Moffitt Cancer Center a $3.2 million boost: Page 158

Al fresco dining in St. Petersburg celebrates WUSF Public Media: Page 159

Industrial-themed event helps hospital’s Fund for the Future: Page 162

Arias and oversize characters enliven “Bella Voce”: Page 166 JUNE 2015

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Hand-crafted

FRESH AND LOCAL BY MARY JANE PARK

PHOTOGRAPHS BY SCOTT KEELER

Florida’s growing seasons can be fleeting. Ask Claudia Frigeri, whose small harvest of Pasco County peaches are piled atop a footed wooden dish, warming in the morning sun. As blueberries come in, she will preserve them along with the peaches, creating a layered jam. In jars, it resembles a spectacular gulf coast sunset. On minuscule buttermilkbiscuit clouds, it tastes of heaven. “So Claudia,” asks one of the 15 or so friends and neighbors invited to a tasting in Frigeri’s South Tampa home. “Do you mix this up?” Sure, if you want. Frigeri, who has a doctorate degree in pharmacology, started her cottage food business, Three Keys Jams, in 2014, selling to friends and family, then taking her creations to the Tampa Downtown Market and to first-Friday markets at Whole Foods on N Dale Mabry Highway. Her sales brochure lists 14 flavors, both sweet and savory. Frigeri said she pored over dozens of recipes, experimented with some and then tweaked them.

Served with cheese, jams are spooned onto a tasting platter. From left, blueberry-orange and ginger, apple in Calvados, passion fruit, blueberry-peach cobbler and strawberry balsamic.

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JUNE 2015

“Generally speaking, mostly I decrease the sugar by a lot,” she said. “I try to use as much Florida produce as I can. I do really like local, and seasonal, and low-sugar. Instead of getting the peaches from Chile, I wait for the Florida ones.” Frigeri grew up in Sao Paulo, Brazil, and said she often spent summers in the countryside with her mother’s family. Her father-in-law, who experienced the Great Depression, taught her about home food-processing. “For his family, it was a way of life,” she said. “He still grows his tomatoes, and he cans them.” With those family influences, she said, “It’s come full circle. I feel it makes everything better to have things so close and in season.” “I love that food brings people together,” she said, her kitchen brimming with conversations. Neighbor Robin Smillie, whose wife, Cathy, is a dietician and nutritionist with the St. Anthony’s Hospital Foundation, said he had her permission to sample the jams, and “she really restricts what I eat. The best thing about Claudia is that I don’t have to shop for gifts anymore.” Ellen Zusman, another friend and taster, buys them to present to clients at real estate closings. Frigeri named her business for “my three keys to happiness: my husband (Dr. Larry Bischof, a pathologist at St. Joseph’s Hospital) and my kids (daughter Sage, 7, and son Zach, 10). She recently obtained a commercial license that will enable her to produce larger quantities, and she is negotiating with local and national retailers in hopes of selling the jams to a broader base of consumers. St. Petersburg’s Locale Market offers them now. She continues to learn about labeling, pricing and container shapes and sizes. “I love thinking about the person who’s opening the jar,” she said. “This is a very good, very fun adventure.” facebook.com/threekeysjams; threekeysjams.com

At top: A sampler plate, with local peaches. At right: Friends and neighbors at a tasting in Frigeri’s South Tampa kitchen. From left are Jamie Goldenberg, Mary Catherine Hamelin, Tammy Li and Amanda Saft.

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TAMPA BAY HEART BALL Red wine, red evening gowns and a rosy outlook for cardiac research primed guests to pump more than $1 million into the American Heart Association. The April event, held in the A La Carte Event Pavilion, even drew big pledges by phone to seed the Open Your Heart appeal. 1. HSN president Bill Brand, CEO Mindy Grossman and show host Bill Green. 2. Chuck and Becky Sykes, Tampa Bay Heart Ball 2012 co-chairs, with 2015 co-chairs Bob and Lorraine Dutkowsky. 3. Artist Tim Decker speed-paints a portrait of Ray Charles for auction. 4. Rosemary and Bruce Reid bid $17,500 for tickets to Super Bowl 50. 5. Bryan Glazer and then-fiancee Shanna Rosenbluth. The couple were married in late April. 6. Tom and Lauren Pepin show her expectant profile. Photographs by Amy Scherzer

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MAGNOLIA BALL Earth, Wind & Fire grooved its greatest hits, rewarding Magnolia Ball guests who raised $3.2 million for research and treatment at the Moffitt Cancer Center. Carol and Frank Morsani started the April gala appeal with an offer to match the first $500,000. As donorsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; names flashed across video screens, CEO Dr. Alan List popped up to announce another $500,000 pledge, from Jeff and Penny Vinik, who were off celebrating a Tampa Bay Lightning win. 1. John and Holly Tomlin dine with former ABC News correspondent and Moffitt board adviser Sam Donaldson and his wife, Sandy 2. Lesa France Kennedy and Bill Christy. 3. Magnolia Ball honorary chairs Don and Mary Anne Shula. 4. Christine and Bob Gilles. 5. Kara Van de Carr and Daryl Byrd with Peggy and Bob Rothman. Photographs by Amy Scherzer

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THE LONGEST TABLE Supporters of WUSF Public Media gathered for food and drink pairings at the annual fundraising event, held in April along St. Petersburg’s Bayshore Drive. Tampa Bay area restaurants presented the cuisine, and patrons attended an after-party at the nearby Museum of Fine Arts, St. Petersburg. 1. A view of the setting where dozens of partygoers had a sunset dinner. 2. A server garnishes plates of ahi tuna and red snapper crudo from 400 Beach Drive. The first course was served with avocado puree, sweet lime and cucumber salad with sriracha.

Photographs by James Branaman and Lara Cerri

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TAMPA GENERAL HOSPITAL GALA Galvanized aluminum chandeliers and silky white drapery glammed up a vast cruise terminal for â&#x20AC;&#x153;Channelside: Experience Industrial Elegance.â&#x20AC;? The 600 guests raised $325,000 for the Fund for the Future at the yearly Tampa General Hospital Gala.

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1. From left, Tampa General Hospital Foundation gala chairwomen Gretchen Dominguez, Catherine Christie-Zanghi and Heidrun Divers send off Lynn Fluharty, who is retiring after 17 years as events manager. 2. Foundation president Pam Muma gets a hug from Tampa General Hospital board chairman John Brabson. 3. Karen Blumenthal, Susie Rice and hospital trustee Carin Zwiebel. 4. Dr. Ben and Elizabeth Mackie with Dr. John Leone and Amy Bergen. Photographs by Amy Scherzer

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ST. PETERSBURG

ST. PETERSBURG OPERA COMPANY With an Asian theme tied to Pucciniâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s classic Turandot, Opera Central was the backdrop for â&#x20AC;&#x153;Bella Voce,â&#x20AC;? the May fundraiser for the St. Petersburg Opera Company. The evening featured dinner and entertainment from a variety of performers. 1. Karen Ho sings an aria from Turandot, where she will perform in the role of Liu. 2. Artistic director Mark Sforzini bangs a gong to summon guests to dinner. 3. The gala included performances from Mount Song Martial Arts Academy and the Turandot cast. 4. Warren Rodgers, Nancy Preis and Zena Lansky. 5. Maestro Sforzini with Mary Ann and Brad Morse.

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Photographs by James Branaman

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community ST. PETERSBURG

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BRAIN TUMOR ALLIANCE With a 1920s speakeasy theme, the first Brain Tumor Alliance Gala was hosted by Dr. Jean-Francis and Patricia Rossignol at Casa Coe da Sol, House of the Setting Sun, in May. Proceeds from the sold-out event went to All Childrenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Hospital Johns Hopkins Medicine.

1. Lynne Janzen, Michael Tomor and Debbie Turner, president and executive director of the Brain Tumor Alliance. 2. Dancers perform as the music begins during the inaugural Prohibition Gala. 3. Ian Prosser, Dawn Zachman, Arnold Duke and Elizabeth Flower. 4. Richard Mastry, Gerry Davidson, Tom and Mary James and honorary event chairwoman Pat Rossignol. 5. Myles Levitt, Stacie Stapleton and Jim Spencer. 6. Karen Banfield displays a painting by artist Eugene Carrion. Photographs by James Branaman

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JUNE 2015

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COMING IN AUGUST Clearwater designer Lina Teixeiraâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s stunning creations cannot help but attract the eye. Many are constructed using repurposed and recycled items such as the cotton-ball poufs and makeup remover pads in the bridal-type style modeled by her daughter, Bianca Persechino. Teixeira, at right, finds inspiration everywhere: in leaves, feathers, even antlers. Read about her in the August issue of Bay. Photograph by Cherie Diez