Pink (June 2019)

ISSUE176∫JUNE2019

DRESSING IS HIS ART

USING CLOTHES TO SEND A MESSAGE

GIVING BIRTH IN A BATHROOM

MY MOTHER WAS MY MIDWIFE

I am autistic

DIAGNOSED LATE IN LIFE STRIVING AGAINST STIGMA

@ THE #PINKFASHIONSHOW19 AND WHO WAS WEARING WHAT

STAY FRESH

FASHION IN THE SHADE

57

INSIDE

June 2019

25 12

45

FEATURES 12 PrivateEye the other side of the spectrum Severely autistic but breaking down stereotypes 16 WomensWorld preventing the rise of machines The human aspect of artificial intelligence 20 ArtyFacts discover the unusual world of contemporary music Three females behind the Malta International Arts Festival 25 LifeStyle home birth Entering the world in a tiny toilet

29

FASHION 33 FashionStory a love letter to style Inside a wardrobe that weaves narratives and words 36 ShowStopper green for go Stay natural and keep fresh 43 TheUniform we’re going to the races!

Racetrack style at The Pink Fashion Show 45 Pink@TheParty the pink fashion show Brands, sponsors and guests galore

REGULARS 9 EditorsNote 10 MailShot 29 WomanKind dina-mite Diana Mitford 57 SnapShot sacrifice to succeed Maria Cutajar 58 ThinkPink food and fashion

COVER Photography MarieClaire Portelli ∫ Styling Marisa Grima [marisagrima.com] ∫ Hair Dominic Bartolo @ Domdreads ∫ Make-up Talitha Dimech ∫ Models Elenoir and Hannah at Supernova MM, wearing kaftan, €35.90; swimsuit, €59, both Calzedonia ∫ bag stylist’s own.

6 ∫ Pink June 2019

With Veronica Grech Sant at The Pink Fashion Show.

EDITORSNOTE

We’ve recently emerged – alive and just about unscathed – from weeks, if not months, of fashion shows and other related events, culminating in our very own catwalk [check out Pink@TheParty on page 45].

And reflecting on this frenetic period, it’s always good to note how the industry has continued to evolve and the feverish enthusiasm the crowd following it displays.

Actually, that’s probably what has struck me most. We Maltese just love any excuse to dress up. We crave the opportunity to plan an outfit that will either fit on, or stand out, depending on our personality type.

We thirst for the chance to make our own mini fashion statement in an event where we will be seen and photographed. And this is a welcome and fun thing.

For the organiser of an event, to receive messages questioning what guests should wear, sneak previews of what they’ve planned, and infectious excitement about their outfit, is a good sign. It fuels the hype. And after all, if it’s a fashion party, what to wear should be taken into account.

But over the course of the events I have attended, I have also afforded a little cheeky giggle at this little cheeky country of ours, where, within some quarters, the desperate need for – and lack thereof – celebrity status is so… in your face.

We are C-listers, secretly obsessed with the Kardashians of this world, and if we get half the chance, out come the voluptuous evening gowns and Middle Eastern-style make-up.

Getting dolled up is something we really know how to do.

Throw out a red carpet… and Hollywood beckons, complete with Oscar-like attire. [Throw out a polo club and racetrack and, luckily, you avoid that scenario for a more downto-earth and casual approach… See TheUniform on page 43].

We’re a bunch of never-gonna-be princesses, craving the one-off chance to take on the role; we’re adult children, playing Barbies with ourselves.

And while I welcome the fashion fervour I have witnessed over the past weeks, I am also faced with our small-town syndrome, where too much effort is put into these things, resulting in some fashion faux pas and backfiring to boot.

Fashion statements don’t need to mean making a fool of yourself, and there’s a fine line between being bold and carnivalesque. We just can’t seem to balance that one and we sway towards the fancy dress more often than not.

In saying this, I am of course not dissing creative and clever clothing.

Our FashionStory on page 33, for example, explores Iggy Fenech’s wardrobe for his conversationstarter sartorial sense and the social messages he sends through wellthought-out outfits.

Neither am I associating myself with that clueless faction of critics, who can only equate fashion with elegance – just one style – and put the boring [but elegant, pristine and super photogenic] Kate Middleton up their as their fashion icon.

Fashion is free and originality is key, but somewhere along the line, we’ve missed the door to that effortless look.

I don’t expect people to be as unintentionally ‘effortless’ as I have had to be. I got to Fashion Week shows that started at 9pm by running upstairs to pull something out of my wardrobe at 8.20pm and feeling almost guilty around those who had been thinking their look through as though their lives depended upon it.

I changed behind a bar, after guests had already started pouring into The Pink Fashion Show, and I wish it didn’t have to be like that.

But let’s just be a tad easier about things, put them into perspective and cut this celebrity-status crap, especially when it comes from persons married to persons in positions of power, who are anything but superstars.

They too love that screen-idol scene and are responsible for fuelling that 'dream' world over the last few years. The show comes complete with arriving at events in an unaffordable chauffeur-driven car and leaving it illegally parked at the end of a red carpet just to hammer their big-shot point home when the whole idea of having a driver is that he can drop you off, park properly, like us mere mortals, and come back for you at the drop of a hat.

Yes, overall, the style situation is desperate. This country is in desperate need to tone things down.

But with the host of self-proclaimed fashionistas and everyone playing at being an icon – and no one left to call them out – it’s become a fashion free-for-all, and I’m only seeing more spotlights at the end of this tacky red carpet.

June 30, 2019 ∫ Pink is a monthly magazine ∫ Issue 176 ∫ Executive editor Fiona Galea Debono ∫ Publisher Allied Newspapers Ltd ∫ Printing Progress Press Ltd ∫ Production Allied Newspapers Ltd ∫ Contributors Adriana Bishop, Iggy Fenech, Anna Marie Galea, Mary Galea Debono, Marisa Grima, Caroline Paris, Rachel Zammit Cutajar ∫ Design Manuel Schembri ∫ Photography Jonathan Borg, Gordon Formosa, Andrè Gialanze, Kurt Paris, MarieClaire Portelli, Chris Sant Fournier ∫ Advertising sales Veronica Grech Sant [2276 4333; veronica.grechsant@timesofmalta.com].

THIS PUBLICATION IS BEING DISTRIBUTED AS PART OF:

@pinkmagazine

@pinkmagazine_tom

© 2019. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole, or in part, without written permission of the publishers, is prohibited.

Pink June 2019 ∫ 9

MAILSHOT

THE LETTER THAT TICKLED PINK THUMBS UP TO THE GIRLS! Reading through four of your thoroughly researched features in the May issue of Pink, I was struck by the contrast that emerged from them, each clearly depicting extremely difficult obstacles women had to overcome throughout time to arrive to the emancipation they enjoy now. I will start by referring to the feature about Sister Paola Frassinetti, the founder of the Dorotheans, in the story The Dorothean [WomanKind]. Back then, in the 19th century, and from her personal experience, she knew about the harsh drawbacks with regard to education, especially if you were born a girl. She persisted throughout her life to help girls who would never have dreamt of knowing what an education was all about. Through her noble act, Paola’s legacy lives on. The feature Music to Her Ears [ArtyFacts], which talks about women and music through the centuries, is an eye-opener and again shows how controversial it was for women to show their talent, in this case in music, publicly. The care and dedication of curator Dr Anna Borg Cardona in the exhibition at the Mdina Cathedral Museum impressed me. And I was really stunned to learn that it took so many years for women to find an equal footing with men in singing and playing musical instruments to an audience outside the confines of their homes. Even though I liked reading these two features, it was a breath of fresh air to come across the article about the three women artists, Elaine Wirth, who creates 3D-printed objects, Sue Mifsud, a ceramist, and Saz Mifsud, a fashion designer, in And So She Made It [ArtyFacts]. It’s wonderful to read how passionate these three artists are in their three different lines. They feel free to express themselves through their art and sell their handmade works, which I am sure are created with so much love and uniqueness. For me, this really was an inspiring feature. Last but not least – and continuing in the line of the freedom women enjoy in today's world, compared to what they had to deal with in previous times – I really enjoyed reading the story about women who play polo. I would have always associated the sport with men. But women are in it as well and I am sure that they will achieve great results in the sport and excel. Thumbs up to the girls! And of course, another thumbs up goes to all the team of Pink for all your hard work. Thank you!

CONCETTA CUTAJAR, FROM SAN GWANN

The writer of the letter of the month wins a Miss Dior Roller-Pearl eau de toilette, courtesy of Franks.

GET MORE OF PINK ON OUR SOCIAL MEDIA CHANNELS

INSTAGRAM @pinkmagazine_tom

READ PINK ONLINE ON

10 ∫ Pink June 2019

FACEBOOK @pinkmagazine

€500 TO SPEND!

WRITE IN AND WIN We want to hear from you. Send us your feedback on Pink and any stories that may have touched you in some way. And you stand a chance of winning, in collaboration with Sicilia Outlet Village and Sharon Travel Sicily, a fabulous €500 voucher to spend on a shopping spree in any of the luxury stores at Sicilia Outlet Village, complete with two return Air Malta flights and coach trip, courtesy of tour operator Sharon Travel Sicily.

Write to Pink, with your contact details, at Allied Newspapers Limited, Triq l-Intornjatur, Mrieћel, BKR 3000, or send an e-mail to pink@timesofmalta.com Correspondence may be edited for length and clarity. If prizes are not claimed within two months, they will no longer be available. Winners should be willing to have their photograph taken for marketing purposes.

PRIVATEEYE

THE OTHER SIDE OF THE SPECTRUM Few understand Autism Spectrum Disorder better than 26-year-old Graziella Bezzina, who was diagnosed as being severely autistic only four years ago. Working as an LSA in a primary school, she is aware that talking about her condition can cause problems. Nevertheless, she opens up to ADRIANA BISHOP about her dream to run a home for teenagers with mental health problems. But first, she wants to break down a few stereotypes surrounding her own condition.

H

er autism diagnosis is only the fifth thing Graziella Bezzina tells me about herself in her pre-interview introduction e-mail after her age, 26, the fact that she lives in Birkirkara, her job as an LSA in a primary school and that she is reading a bachelor’s degree in Youth Work at the University of Malta.

In other words, while we are here to discuss her condition, it does not define her. And that is the first important lesson I learn from this remarkable young woman.

The second is that she likes to plan things well and follow a structure.

For this reason, she wants to see the questions in advance, and they must be direct questions. It goes contrary

12 ∫ Pink June 2019

to the norms of interviewing, but I acquiesce. The long list of questions sent to Graziella a few days prior to our meeting is now resting on a low table in front of us. We tick them off one by one as we proceed with the interview, while Graziella counts how many pages of notes I write – 21 pages in my A5-sized notebook, or “seven times three” as she quickly points out.

We meet at the offices of Richmond Foundation in Sta Venera, which works with adults who have mental health issues and runs several residences, including Villa Chelsea, for people like Graziella.

“You have to dress up smart if you come to visit me because I live in a villa,” Graziella quips.

We are not alone during the interview. Casey Scicluna, Villa Chelsea’s rehabilitation manager and Graziella’s “rock” sits next to her.

Graziella is clearly comforted by her presence. Kelly Cassar, housing officer and community support service at Richmond Foundation, is also there.

In reality, Graziella needed neither Casey’s reassurance nor Kelly’s support.

Her initial shyness and nervousness are soon swept away as she ably commands the floor for the next two hours. She even relaxes enough to take off her outdoor jacket, and by the end of the interview, I win her approval. “I was nervous at first, but you’re OK. You’re not strange.”

Graziella is just one representation of autism; she is not the sole example

PRIVATEEYE of this wide-ranging condition. Autism Spectrum Disorder [ASD] is a neurodevelopmental disorder characterised by challenges with social skills, repetitive behaviours, speech and nonverbal communication. According to Autism Speaks [www.autismspeaks.org], there are numerous subtypes of autism and most are influenced by a combination of genetic and environmental factors.

Every person with autism manifests his or her own unique strengths and challenges. Some are extremely intelligent and high functioning, requiring little support, while others may need a considerable amount of help. The way people with autism learn, think and solve problems varies widely depending on the severity of their condition.

Figures indicating the number of people with ASD in Malta are unclear, but based on UK statistical analysis, it is generally believed that as many as one per cent of the population may be affected. An increasing awareness and understanding of the condition have led to more cases being diagnosed in recent years.

Autism is usually diagnosed in early childhood, often by the age of two or three. Graziella, however, was only diagnosed at the age of 22, despite the fact that she did not speak as a child.

She was never taken to a specialist for a proper diagnosis.

When she finally took the test, she scored “severe”. Initially, she could not and would not believe it. “I was in denial,” she admits. “I did not accept it. How is it that they never noticed it before?”

She immediately asked to retake the test with a different psychiatrist, but it was not possible. “I kept trying to find reasons for my diagnosis.”

Two years later, she asked once more to retake the test. “This time, I prepared myself better so I wouldn’t be ‘marked’ as autistic, but the result of the second test was ‘severe’ again; only this time, it was just slightly less markedly so.”

The diagnosis was a revelation for Graziella. “The jigsaw puzzle of my life started fitting.” It was an uphill struggle for her to accept the condition and learn to live with it and she is the first to admit that she did not make it easy for herself, nor for those who tried to help her.

Graziella was convinced Richmond Foundation could not help her as

nothing had previously worked. “I was convinced that it was going to be a waste of time. When I started at Villa Chelsea, my behaviour was very difficult as I could not understand how these people, who were strangers, could help me and support me. It was very difficult for me to believe, accept and allow them to see me for who I am,” Graziella confesses.

“I started to build relationships that were healthy, and this was all new and challenging to me. Even though there were times when I did not follow the programme, they still supported me and showed me respect. For the first time ever in my life, I felt that I had the same rights as everyone else; that I can have an opinion; that I am a human being just like everyone else.

But the bigger question is: do others accept Graziella? She confesses that her family, with whom she is not in contact anymore, her work colleagues and her students do not know she is autistic. I point out to her that this article will change all that.

“I don’t know what their reaction will be and that scares me a bit,” she concedes. She is acutely aware of the stigma surrounding this little known and misunderstood condition. “Some who work in this field may understand, but others will stigmatise me immediately. By hiding it somehow, I am accepted, but if I reveal [my condition] they will accept me less.”

Graziella was also concerned about repercussions from employers. She has

“AUTISM IS USUALLY DIAGNOSED IN EARLY CHILDHOOD, OFTEN BY THE AGE OF TWO OR THREE. GRAZIELLA, HOWEVER, WAS ONLY DIAGNOSED AT THE AGE OF 22, DESPITE THE FACT THAT SHE DID NOT SPEAK AS A CHILD. SHE WAS NEVER TAKEN TO A SPECIALIST FOR A PROPER DIAGNOSIS” “Suddenly, I felt that Graziella was also someone who was confident, loved and cared for and accepted by the members of Villa Chelsea. It was as if Graziella was somewhat non-existent and Richmond Foundation facilitated and supported the process of building herself up,” she continues, switching into the third person, a typical trait in persons with autism. “I found what I had been seeking and wishing throughout my life.”

And does she accept her condition now, I ask her? “Well, it’s a part of me now, isn’t it,” she quickly replies. “I have to live with it now. I know my weak points. I can contain myself more. You know certain symptoms, but at first, you don’t understand why things happen in a certain way. I still stubbornly believe that certain traits are a result of my childhood. Now I am kinder to myself.

I used to hurt myself, but I am better now. I now understand that things happen, which are out of my control.

“When I first came to Villa Chelsea, I was like a wild animal. They restored my foundation. They recreated Graziella. They helped me to accept my condition. They boosted my confidence and made me feel useful. I feel empowered because they allow us to cook and do our own housework.”

been working as an LSA in a primary school for four years now and actually finds that her condition makes her better equipped to understand children with learning difficulties.

However, she understands that people may find it difficult to accept.

“I was afraid that people wouldn’t employ me so I decided I wouldn’t tell anyone. I do well at work; I cope well; but people go on stereotypes. My work colleagues know me just as ‘normal’ Graziella.

“I teach in a Year 2 class. They are too young to understand, but their parents might read this. My fear is that they may reject me, or invent rumours about me.

As long as I do my work well, then that is OK, but there is still a lot of stigma and ignorance about autism,” she continues.

An advantage of Graziella’s autism is her sharp intelligence, which helps her to cope with daily challenges. It also helps her understand others as they face their own life challenges.

“I understand better than most how people feel in certain struggles. I often secretly diagnose others as I recognise they may be struggling with change anxiety, for example. When I first started working in this school, I was given an autistic child in a kindergarten class to Pink June 2019 ∫ 13

PRIVATEEYE look after. I was told this child was very difficult, but in reality, I took the case step by step and I managed him well. I have a boy with ADHD who always works well with me without any issues. I know how to handle children. I go down to their level.

I find their ‘tactic’. The children love me, but I also know how to use discipline in challenging behaviour.”

Graziella admits that her condition does hold her back from interacting with her colleagues, or asking for assistance.

“I hate bothering them. They say I am the only LSA at school with whom they have yet to have a conversation.”

Her condition means she is particularly sensitive to noise, which makes her feel “overwhelmed” and tires her out. Graziella also makes a big effort to contain her feelings of anxiety, which have long affected her throughout her life.

“There isn’t much awareness about the physical symptoms of anxiety,” she points out, adding that when she was a child, a doctor misdiagnosed this as an “allergy”.

Her anxiety is not part of ASD, but certain aspects of autism, such as unplanned changes and social interaction, will cause and exacerbate this.

“I am sensory sensitive. I hear everything at once and that makes me more anxious. I cannot listen to music on headphones, for example. I tend to be more anxious than others, but I manage to control my anxiety.”

After work, Graziella spends three hours at university every day as part of her part-time degree work. “The university administration knows about my condition, but the other students in the course don’t.

I follow all the same criteria as the others.”

Autism is not going to stop this formidable young woman from achieving her dreams. She insists that despite her condition, she can still engage with youth through her work. If anything, her condition makes it easier for her to understand the challenges they face. More than that, she has a clear vision of how she would like to help young teenagers who may experience mental health issues at their most vulnerable time between the ages of 13 and 18 when so many changes are happening in their life.

It is estimated that 70 per cent of all mental health issues manifest themselves during these critical adolescent years.

Despite research showing the value and positive impact of an early intervention 14 ∫ Pink June 2019

“I WANT TO SEE A TOTAL CHANGE IN THE MENTAL HEALTH SECTOR” service for young people, there are currently no support services available for teenagers. Richmond Foundation’s own children’s programme ends at the age of 13, and then they can re-join when they are adults at the age of 18.

“There is no help for teenagers at a time when they are facing so many changes with puberty, hormones, changing school from primary to secondary… This is the time when they are most affected by mental health issues. Between the ages of 13 and 18 is the critical time; a time when kids don’t understand themselves. They feel helpless. They feel they are being pulled in different directions; they want one thing while their family wants them to do something else,” Graziella says.

She is particularly passionate about this and she even addressed the issue in her speech at a special sitting of the National Youth Parliament last year, where she addressed the House as the leader of the Partit tas-Sah-h-a Mentali.

“At that age, even friends can shun you if your behaviour is odd. If young people find no help, their situation only gets worse, and by the time they get help [at the age of 18] they may already be at the edge.”

Graziella dreams of opening her own residential house for young people with mental health issues or behavioural problems. “These young people feel they are not accepted; they feel threatened; they have nowhere to go to understand

their behaviour and their emotions. I want to give them a place where they can deal with such issues, so that they don’t end up at Mount Carmel or fil-vizzju.

“Mount Carmel breaks you,” Graziella adds. “After Mount Carmel, people come to Richmond Foundation to relearn the skills they had lost there. They relearn how to be in a community.”

Graziella is acutely aware of the importance of raising awareness about autism. As the condition can manifest itself in so many different behaviours, it is not easily understood. Social interaction with people who have the condition is tricky at the best of times.

“Awareness helps people open their mind and not stereotype or judge,” Graziella points out. “Employers should see the person not their condition. They don’t see the potential. Work gives you a sense of belonging; it makes you feel capable.

People [with autism] should not be afraid of being sacked or not accepted at work.”

Lack of information about the condition meant that Graziella was never diagnosed in childhood – something she greatly regrets. An early diagnosis means that children can get help sooner. She also advocates for more day centres for elderly people with autism.

“Older people with autism can be difficult to handle, especially if they are not so intelligent. There need to be more day centres for such cases so that they

PRIVATEEYE feel they belong somewhere. We also need homes specifically for autistic people,” she insists.

“There is no need to pity these people. They just need help,” Graziella adds. “I am human. I am not meant to live alone.

I want to interact, but I don’t know how. People try to stay away or minimise your potential and self-esteem. They don’t expect you to do so well.”

As my time with Graziella comes to a close, I ask her where she sees herself in the future, say in 10 years’ time. She hesitates a little and turns to Casey for her approval, but then replies firmly: “I want to see a total change in the mental health sector.”

Her vision of her own personal future is not unlike that of any other 26-year-old woman: she wants to buy her own property and not continue living in a hostel, although she admits she might then feel “lonely”. She wants “a baby boy”, “friends” and, more poignantly, that “Casey will still be here…

“Yes, I am happy now. I want to continue to be happy,” says Graziella with a finality that spells without any doubt that this woman knows her own mind.

EARLY INTERVENTION SERVICE FOR YOUNG PEOPLE – A PROPOSAL Founded in 1993, Richmond Foundation is Malta’s leading NGO working in the mental health sector. The foundation runs Villa Chelsea, which accommodates 12 residents who live there full time for one year as part of a rehabilitation programme, teaching them to gain skills that would help them live independently in the community, especially after a prolonged stay at Mount Carmel Hospital. A further 12 clients use the facility on a day user programme.

Richmond also runs three hostels accommodating a total of 33 people, and a further 62 reside in independent flats provided by the foundation. Some 109 people are currently being supported

by Richmond’s team as part of its Community Support Service.

The foundation is now looking into introducing an early intervention service for young people in the form of a dropin/appointment service for adolescents and/or their parents in a non-stigmatising environment. They would meet professionals who would assess behavioural issues that may or may not be resulting from the onset of mental illness.

The Early Intervention Service “would be run by a multidisciplinary team focused primarily on the psycho-social aspect of the illness and including a robust presence of a medical professional to facilitate the administration of medication where necessary and to encourage compliance,” explains Ms Cassar.

However, while proposing and implementing such a service can be easily achieved, running it “requires a lot of funds from the private sector”, she points out.

“Unfortunately, Malta is still experiencing stigma within the mental health sector,” Ms Cassar adds. “This stigma fosters discrimination against people with mental health problems. Richmond Foundation is continuously working to create more awareness on the importance of taking care of one’s own mental health.

“Early intervention is important and crucial. Unfortunately, if stigma is present within this sector, it can hinder the possibility for someone to seek help. This can result in a deterioration of the illness.”

If you have any questions about mental health, call Richmond Foundation’s freephone 1770. For further information, visit www.richmond.org.mt

16 ∫ Pink June 2019

PREVENTING THE RISE OF THE MACHINES Artificial intelligence [AI] has the potential to make life much easier, with advances in this industry being termed the “new revolution”. However, as with any industry, there are dangers, and regulation is needed to ensure the safe use of this technology. IT lawyer Dr Jackie Mallia tells RACHEL ZAMMIT CUTAJAR that a national strategy for the safe development of AI would not only prevent the apocalyptic predictions of sci-fi movies at the hands of machines, but would also provide a tool to enhance human life.

I

t’s been four years since Eva [Alicia Vikander], the murderous AI in Alex Garland’s sci-fi thriller Ex Machina, stepped out of the Blue Book compound, an incognito AI dressed in synthetic skin and clothes, indistinguishable from the hordes of people walking on the street in that final scene.

AI is by no means a new concept and the idea of the rise of the machines, taking over the world, has been the subject of many a sci-fi story or movie. For the most part, robots taking over the world remains just that – science fiction. However, recent years have seen a huge advancement in the technologies surrounding AI. Dr Jackie Mallia, an IT lawyer, says there is still a large distinction between ‘narrow’ and ‘strong’ AI, with narrow technologies being ingrained into our society at a very fast rate. Think Siri, Alexa, Netflix and Spotify.

“If we take Spotify as an example, the programme is considered intelligent as it is constantly learning.

It learns your habits and makes recommendations based on what you choose to listen to. You could, for

WOMENSWORLD ‘new revolution’ and there will be the same upheaval in daily life as we saw with the Internet. It is impossible to imagine life today without the Internet and the same will be said of AI in years to come,” Jackie maintains.

However, she adds that the industry can become uncontrollable if it remains completely unrestricted.

Jackie forms part of a taskforce at Malta.ai, a government initiative to create a national strategy for artificial intelligence.

“Regulation is important in this industry. Artificial intelligence can be an incredibly effective tool.

Nevertheless, we need to understand the implications and the impact this is going to have on society and set up an ethical and eventually a legal framework in which the industry can operate safely,” she explains.

Jackie identifies a number of problem areas that could result from example, favour jazz in the morning and something heavier in the afternoon.

“It also compares your favourite songs to choices of other users who listen to that kind of music and will make recommendations based on their playlists. If you tell the programme you don’t like a particular song, it will eliminate recommendations based on that criteria. The software is basically learning from its mistakes.”

As smart as this seems, it is still considered narrow AI as, though the machine is learning, it is only aimed at completing one specific task – to select music – and this still has to be directed by a human. Other forms of narrow AI might check the weather or play chess.

“It lacks consciousness and humanlike intelligence. On the other hand, artificial general intelligence, or strong AI, refers to machines that exhibit human intelligence. It is self-aware, conscious and its intelligence matches – or even outsmarts – that of a human,” Jackie explains.

In walks Eva from Ex Machina, or Samantha [Scarlett Johansson] from Spike Jonze’s 2013 romantic sci-fi drama, Her… “This is where the future of this technology could perhaps lead. The

“IT IS IMPOSSIBLE TO IMAGINE LIFE TODAY WITHOUT THE INTERNET AND THE SAME WILL BE SAID OF AI IN YEARS TO COME” industry, mostly in the narrow field, has developed at incredible speeds over the last few years and this,” Jackie states, “is the result of the increase in processing power, new microchip architectures, more efficient algorithms and the increasingly growing datasets that main AI actors hold and without which AI would not and could not be very intelligent.

“Because AI learns from data, it becomes more accurate when it has more data to analyse, and as data is being produced on massive scales every day, increased processing power means the technology is able to make the more precise decisions – choose the right song or movie or make the right move in a chess game.”

Having specialised in IT law, completing a master’s degree at Queen Mary University in London, Jackie has always been excited by AI and how it will impact our lives.

“Tech has become a fundamental part of human life. I love the idea of how our lives can be simplified and improved with the use of emerging technologies. AI is being termed the

the uptake of AI, which are currently being tackled by the Malta.ai taskforce.

Perhaps the easiest one to identify is the issue of loss of jobs.

“Even in my own industry, there are machines that can read contracts and identify potential problems within minutes. They are not sophisticated enough to replace a human lawyer just yet, but this is the direction in which we could be headed.

“The same can be said for other industries. For each one, there is a machine that can do at least part of the job better than any human. What is needed is the creation of a framework that mitigates the impact of such an eventuality, and also to improve skills in areas where machines still fall short.

For example, emotional intelligence is still an area that cannot be reproduced by a machine.”

Privacy is another factor that needs to be taken into consideration.

The more data is collected, the more accurate the response of the machine will be. The question, here, is how much data can be collected without infringing on people’s right to privacy?

Pink June 2019 ∫ 17

WOMENSWORLD In this area, Jackie says, legislation needs to be adapted to find that perfect balance.

“Most countries aren’t looking at a complete legal framework; they are looking at adapting their current legislation. For example, there are clear-cut laws about who is culpable in a traffic accident, but if one of the vehicles involved is a self-driving car and thus uses AI, who is to blame for the accident? Is it the manufacturer, the person who installed it, or the end-user?

“Rather than create a specific framework that governs AI, there could be the option of adaptations to the current traffic laws that take selfdriven cars into account.”

This, she says, is happening on a global scale. Individual countries are looking at traditional laws to see what needs updating. “Ethical frameworks are being developed the world over and these may vary from country to country… and herein lies yet another problem.

“We may be regulating effectively in Europe, but the AI developed in other countries may not meet European ethical standards. Will that affect Europeans and how are we going to protect our citizens? There are global implications that need to be addressed.”

18 ∫ Pink June 2019

Despite the identification of such a large number of potential threats, Jackie is positive about the changes that are taking place. “Health care and diagnostic medicine have seen huge positive upheavals, and it is important to focus on the positive aspects while also creating a framework that will mitigate risks of this emerging technology.

“Another aspect that needs to be considered is the education requirements of the industry, ensuring the right expertise is available on the island to cope with these radical changes while also providing incentives for operating within the industry in Malta.”

as well as forming part of the taskforce for Malta.ai. And this she juggles with being a mother to three-year-old twins.

Dr Mallia talks about the change in perspectives brought about by the children. “It sounds like a cliché, but there really is a shift in what is important in life. Family is the most important aspect and holding onto my career has been challenging. There have been days where I’ve woken up at 4am to get a few hours of work done before the kids wake up, but I am lucky with the flexibility of my work and the support I have from family.

“Of course, having your own career is rewarding in itself. However, another

“EVEN IN MY OWN INDUSTRY, THERE ARE MACHINES THAT CAN READ CONTRACTS AND IDENTIFY POTENTIAL PROBLEMS WITHIN MINUTES. THEY ARE NOT SOPHISTICATED ENOUGH TO REPLACE A HUMAN LAWYER JUST YET, BUT THIS IS THE DIRECTION IN WHICH WE COULD BE HEADED” Malta has been at the forefront of technological services in the past.

It was the first in Europe to regulate the iGaming sector, the first to digitise the telecommunications infrastructure and, more recently, the first country to set up a legal framework for the operation of blockchain and cryptocurrencies. It seems to be working in the same direction when it comes to regulating AI. “Because we are a small country, heavily reliant on the service sector, governments, past and present, have always been on the ball when it comes to capitalising on the next big thing in the tech industry.

“The concept of regulating AI did not start in Malta, but the intention is to come up with ideas that will put Malta at the forefront, and we will be drivers in certain niches.

“The goal is to have a full national strategy within the year that will lay down a framework that other countries can also use to inspire their own legislation,” Jackie points out.

She balances her work as a lawyer with policy-making, being a fundamental part of setting up legal frameworks in Botswana and Swaziland,

important reason for me to keep at it is the example that I’m setting for my children. I hope my daughter will eventually understand that is possible to have both family and a career and that she can strive for success in both fields.

“For my son, it is equally important for him to see his mother respected in both fields as it will encourage him to be supportive of women in his life in the future, whether his own partner or women he comes in contact with in a professional scenario.”

Talking of support in the professional world, Jackie works in a relatively maledominated industry. However, she is positive about the changes that are coming about in this area. As a former lecturer at Middlesex University, she has seen an increasing number of women taking up IT-related courses and is certain of women’s participation in the future of the industry.

“Even as the industry is today, I have never felt any discrimination with regards to gender when working in this environment,” she states.

AI is advancing in leaps and bounds, and nobody really knows where it is going. The best we can hope for is a framework that will ensure the safe operation of the emerging technology and it seems like we are heading in the right direction.

ARTYFACTS Gisèle Grima

DISCOVER THE UNUSUAL WORLD OF CONTEMPORARY MUSIC Contemporary music and dance are in for a rowdy night during one of the Malta International Arts Festival 2019’s most experimental concerts, M.A.D. Music and Dance. Here, three of the women working on the three main elements of the concert – music performance, composition and dance – explain how it all comes together.

T

he Malta International Arts Festival [MIAF] has become one of the islands’ most highlyanticipated cultural happenings thanks to its diverse and encompassing programmes.

Featuring the performing arts, each of the 13 previous editions of the MIAF have pushed the bar while remaining accessible in scope, striking a balance that both culture vultures and one-off visitors could enjoy, revel in and learn from.

Yet, under the artistic direction of Ruben Zahra, the MIAF 2019, on until July 14, will be setting the bar even higher on the interdisciplinary platform, with 17 cutting-edge events accessible to a wide audience. Among these will be Aquasonic, which features an underwater concert with five musicians submerged in transparent tanks to deliver a spellbinding performance, and FLA.CO.MEN, which sees Spanish flamenco dancer and choreographer Israel Galván’s wild reinvention of the genre.

20 ∫ Pink June 2019

There will also be the holographic puppet opera Toujours et Près de Moi, a haunting work set to Renaissance madrigals and contemporary vocal music, and Berberio, an award-winning children’s performance based on the musical language of the Italian avant-garde composer Luciano Berio… But the one we’re focusing on here is M.A.D. Music and Dance.

“The overall programme for M.A.D is interesting and unusual,” says pianist Gisèle Grima, whose career in music has seen her collaborate with the likes of Ardita Statovci and perform during last year’s mammoth production of Steve Reich’s Tehillim by Modern Music Days.

“The chamber works by Ligeti, Walton and Connesson will present audiences with a new musical style that is modern, quirky and yet very entertaining and accessible, while music by local composers for four-hands piano [quattro mani] will be choreographed.”

ARTYFACTS “SOMETIMES, AS LISTENERS, WE DON’T NEED TO TRY HARD TO COMPREHEND CONTEMPORARY MUSIC BECAUSE I BELIEVE THAT EXPOSING OUR EARS TO LESS CONVENTIONAL SOUNDS CAN STILL TRIGGER OFF EMOTION AND MEANING – AND THAT IS WHAT SUCH A CONCERT SHOULD BE ALL ABOUT”

This piece, as well as the two other compositions by Fiorini and Vella Gregory, will be choreographed by Zoe Camilleri and Gil Kerer and feature dancers Anna Armato, Concetta Cariello, Pamela Kerr, Gloria Borge Lasarte, Alicja Sosnia and Aline Zora.

“I was given a beautiful piece of music composed by Alex to choreograph,” says Zoe, who joined ŻfinMalta in 2014 and who has become renowned for her experimental choreographies. “I am interested in exploring the theme of spatial limitations in our surroundings and environment through movement, which is created using tasks, and the ideas it Zoe Camilleri and Veronique Vella Photography Joseph Agius represents, which are explored using images.

The movement in the piece sees a range of qualities from open and fluid to quick and precise.”

M.A.D. Music and Dance also features three major 20th-century works, including Mysteries of the Macabre by György Ligeti.

A tour de force for soprano and chamber orchestra, this work exemplifies Ligeti’s cartoonesque virtuosity of composition and his use of irony, wit and absurdity. Sextuor

by Guillaume Connesson engages the audience with its upbeat rhythmic pulse; and Façade Entertainments by William Walton portrays a series of poems by Edith Sitwell recited by Chris Dingli over an instrumental accompaniment.

The M.A.D. programme has been carefully curated by Zahra to present almost a cabaret experience of music entertainment and dance.

The combination of dance to the music of Karl Fiorini, Gisèle, together with pianist Erika Gialanzè, will be Alex Vella Gregory and Veronique Vella will help engage a performing Fiorini’s Ostinati, Vella’s Two Pianos and Vella larger public. As Gisèle herself puts it, “the idea of combinGregory’s Irkejjen, as well as joining other ensembles under the direction of conductor Pavel Šnajdr to perform the ing dance with contemporary music allows audiences to experience modern music through a different dynamic, so piano and celesta in Ligeti’s Mysteries of the Macabre and it will be interesting to see how the choreographers will the piano in Connesson’s Sextuor. interpret this music and how the audience will engage with She is definitely in a position to offer any advice to those the music through movement”. attending: “There can easily be misconceptions when it Speaking to composer Veronique about her piece for comes to contemporary music. While it is understandable M.A.D. entitled Two Pianos, she reveals that the music was that it may not appeal to all people, it is certainly current originally composed to be played on two separate pianos and relevant in today’s music world,” she explains.

“This piece, which was commissioned by Malta’s national “So, my advice is to explore it and interpret contemporary theatre, premiered in December 2016 at Teatru Manoel and music in ways that you feel work for you. was written specifically for the Grima-Gialanzè duo. The “What’s nice is that this programme actually contains version for M.A.D. is transcribed for four-hands piano: two some music that is relatable to Maltese people – Vella pianists on one keyboard, similar to the compositions by Gregory’s set of pieces, for example, is based on four Fiorini and Vella Gregory.” locations situated in Valletta.

As the composer – whose music has been played on “Sometimes, as listeners, we don’t need to try hard to BBC Radio 3, as well as live by the Orchestra of Scottish comprehend contemporary music because I believe that Opera at St Mary’s Cathedral in Glasgow and by the exposing our ears to less conventional sounds can still Malta Philharmonic Orchestra at Teatru Manoel – trigger off emotion and meaning – and that is what such a explains, “the idea behind Two Pianos was to compose a concert should be all about!” piece that was percussive but still tuneful and almost M.A.D. Music and Dance is part of The Malta International Arts ‘clubby’ at points. The final result is a piano piece that has Festival 2019. Taking place on Thursday, July 4, on the Main Stage lots of momentum and energy, but that is not without its at Boat Street [Il-Fossa], Valletta, at 9pm, the event is supported introspective, quieter moments. The result is, well, a bit by the Embassy of Israel. For more information or tickets, mad, if I may say so myself !” visit www.festivals.mt/miaf Pink June 2019 ∫ 21

LIFESTYLE The miracle of life: Liza, Amy, Darren and Sarah Ciantar.

HOME BIRTH

Liza Ciantar gave birth to her daughter unexpectedly in her mother’s tiny spare toilet. ANTOINETTE SINNAS gives a blow-by-blow account of baby Sarah’s surprise and dramatic arrival, and how the family coped with the panic situation, blessed as they were with the ability and power to bring a new life into this world despite no medical background and midwifery skills.

A

lready a mum to one, Liza Ciantar was pretty sure she would know when it was time to head to the hospital to have her baby. But her second bundle of joy had her own little plans to make a surprise entrance – and quite a dramatic one at that!

February 19, 2019, seemed like any other day for Liza, 30, and her mum Grace. But little did they know that what would happen that day would make it the most empowering and profound experience of their lives.

Liza had had a very problematic pregnancy throughout. With growing fibroids and polyps, she was no stranger to the obstetrics ward at Mater Dei. A day before she gave birth, she attended her weekly hospital appointment and the possibility of a C-section was laid on the cards.

The following day, Liza visited her mother in Msida.

After a light lunch, she was tempted to have a siesta, so she decided to snuggle up with her three-year-old daughter, Amy. Moments later, however, she felt a strong jolt in her lower abdomen. She sprung up and rushed to the spare toilet.

“I hadn’t experienced my waters rupturing with my first pregnancy, so I did not know what to expect. I suddenly noticed a huge gush of fluid, which went all over the toilet,” she recalls.

Liza now established she was in labour. She quickly spotted her mobile, phoned her husband and told him what had just happened.

In the meantime, her mum helped her into the shower so she could freshen up before heading off to the hospital. But while in the shower, Liza felt an extreme surge of pressure. It was a disassociated sensation and she did not know whether she had to use the toilet or whether she was in transition.

“With just a towel wrapped around me, I rushed back to the spare toilet and asked my mum to call for the ambulance as I didn’t think my husband would make it in time. He had to leave work, go back home to collect the hospital bag and head to my mum’s place.”

Totally panic-stricken, Grace failed to remember the emergency number. Liza shouted it out, number by number, until Grace managed to dial through. While on the phone with the hospital, Grace scrambled for garments and underwear that would fit Liza because she had no change of clothes with her.

Pink June 2019 ∫ 25

LIFESTYLE “I couldn’t wait for these and asked my mum to help me put on any clothes she had, regardless of whether they would fit. I was feeling so incredibly hot and I wanted to put my hair up in a bun. My mum went looking for a rubber band to tie my hair up. She rushed back with one, and while tying it, it snapped!

Liza recalls shrieking: “Nothing is going right today!” And her voice echoed throughout the apartment.

With all the commotion, Amy woke from her afternoon nap and began wailing, sensing the panic around her. Grace didn’t want her granddaughter to be traumatised, so she closed the bedroom door. She then frantically made another call for the ambulance, while shuttling back and forth from room to room, reassuring Liza and trying to calm Amy. “SHE CAREFULLY HOISTED HERSELF OFF THE TOILET Suddenly, they heard knocking at the front door.

AND HELD THE BABY’S HEAD WITH BOTH HANDS, TRYING As luck would have it, it was Grace’s other grandTO BALANCE HERSELF BETWEEN THE TOILET AND THE children. In walked two more toddlers along with SINK. THE SPARE TOILET WAS TINY. SHE COULDN’T HAVE her son Matthew. Grace hastily ushered Matthew FOUND A SMALLER SPACE TO GO INTO LABOUR IN” and his kids into the room Amy was in and asked him to babysit all the children.

While Liza was on the toilet, she reached down and could clamped the umbilical cord, after which Grace handed over baby feel her baby’s head slowly emerging. “I could feel she had hair Sarah to her son-in-law, Darren, who was still under shock. and remembered that Amy was also born with hair. I remember After a moment of hesitation, he held his daughter for the screaming: ‘I can feel her head; she’s crowning!’ Now, I really first time. Little Sarah then made her way around the family began to freak out.” until Liza had her placenta expelled, lying on the bare floor, Reality suddenly hit. Liza realised the inevitable was propped up by a couple of pillows. The midwife packed the happening. Her baby was coming, and it was coming at that placenta and gave it to Grace to dispose of. very instant! After a split second, she felt gravity pull her baby Liza was still in a haze, but mustered the energy to make further down. Her body was on overdrive. She carefully hoisted her way down to the ambulance. Without a wheelchair, or a herself off the toilet and held the baby’s head with both hands, stretcher, she had to carry her newborn baby down, swaddled in a towel. trying to balance herself between the toilet and the sink. The “I was so exhausted, I walked out of the apartment block spare toilet was tiny. “I couldn’t have found a smaller space to in my mum’s dressing gown and bathroom slippers. All the go into labour in,” Liza laughs. commotion attracted many onlookers. As I inched my way into Grace turned on the heating in the whole apartment and the ambulance, our neighbours waved out to me from their rolled down the blinds. She then rushed back with a towel and balconies,” says Liza. squatted in front of Liza ready to catch the baby. At that point, The bumpy ride to the hospital was an epic journey. Liza Liza’s husband walked in and looked at the two, totally had to feed her baby for the first time sitting up on a stretcher flabbergasted. There they were, doing everything alone, giving with no seatbelt. Dazed and confused, she knew she had a task birth and riding the waves. Liza will never forget the look of at hand and successfully managed to do it. As soon as she fear on Grace’s face. reached the hospital, doors flung open in front of her and she “I then felt an intense urge to push. I stood there with my made it to the delivery suite. body contorted in unbelievable pain and my legs trembling.

After Liza was ready to be shifted to the ward, the baby was God help us!” taken along with her husband to be checked. “Our concern With one massive push, the baby slid out, safely landing in was that three hours had passed, and no medic had seen the Grace’s hands. At 4:15pm baby Sarah Ciantar entered this world, baby”, says Liza. But thankfully, she was a healthy girl. weighing in at 7lb 0.2oz. The first thing they noticed was that she After retiring to the ward, Liza couldn’t believe she had was pale and didn’t give out a loud cry, but just a quiet whimper. done it. Both she and her mum were blessed with the ability Grace placed baby Sarah on Liza’s chest as she perched herself and power to bring a new life into this world in spite of having back on the toilet, carefully holding her newborn and trying not no medical background, or midwifery skills whatsoever; to break the umbilical cord, which was still attached. just faith and trust in God. They managed to deliver a baby “As I held Sarah in my arms, I couldn’t believe she was here completely unassisted and unmedicated. and I couldn’t believe I had her in my mum’s toilet,” says Liza “Neither Sarah nor I suffered any complications in the with the happiest glow on her face. hours or days after birth,” Liza points out. But never in their The paramedic and midwife finally arrived and were surwildest dreams would they have imagined this scenario. prised that the baby had already been delivered. They carefully 26 ∫ Pink June 2019

WOMANKIND

DINA-MITE

Diana Mitford was a beauty – and she knew how to use that asset to her advantage. MARY GALEA DEBONO finds out how and why she befriended Hitler and the consequences of this relationship on her life.

O

Diana with her brother Tom at the 1937 Nuremberg Rally.

f the six Mitford sisters, daughters of David, 3rd Baron Redesdale, and Sydney Bowles, it was Diana, their fourth born child who was the most beautiful.

Winston Churchill, whose wife Clementine was Lord Redesdale’s cousin, called her ‘Dina-mite’, and his own eldest son Randolph admits that after her visits to Chartwell, their family home, he had a crush on her.

The French portrait painter, Paul César Helleu, described her as the most voluptuous woman he had ever met.

But the best description of Diana’s classical beauty comes from the family friend and writer James Lees-Milne: “Divine is the word… More immaculate, more perfect, more celestial than Botticelli’s seaborne Venus.”

Many of the leading artists of the moment, such as Augustus John, made several portraits of her, and Churchill himself, best known for his landscapes, also attempted to capture her allure with his brush. Her photographs appeared regularly on the covers of weeklies.

Although as a child Diana lacked nothing materially, that mental

Diana Mitford in 1932.

stimulus that comes from a close relationship with family and friends was missing and she was often bored.

The mother, although caring and devoted to her family, was like all mothers of her class in those days – distant and emotionally undemonstrative – while school friends, with whom she could exchange ideas and share experiences, were non-existent.

Her brother Tom was the only one to receive a formal education and he was sent to a boarding school when he was eight. The girls, Diana included, longed to go to school, but the

It has to be said that despite the fact that the girls were not sent to school, the education they received at home turned out to be excellent. The mother was careful in engaging competent governesses and teachers and the girls were encouraged to supplement their learning by borrowing books from their well-stocked home library.

Moreover, the parents never sought to stifle their children’s freedom of thought and allowed them to develop their own ideas and opinions. Diana, like her sisters Nancy, Jessica and Deborah, turned out to be a bestselling author.

“WHENEVER DIANA ASKED WHY SHE COULD NOT GO TO SCHOOL LIKE HER BROTHER, THE REASON GIVEN WAS INVARIABLY: ‘TOM IS A BOY’” Redesdales believed that reading and writing, a bit of history and arithmetic, correct deportment and fluent French were enough for girls, and this could be taught by governesses and tutors at home. Whenever Diana asked why she could not go to school like her brother, the reason given was invariably: “Tom is a boy.”

In 1926, when Diana was 16, she was enrolled in a finishing school in Paris mainly to brush up her French.

The prospect of gaining some liberty for which she had been yearning for years was exciting but, unfortunately for her, before the year was over, the Paris adventure came to an abrupt end. One day during the Easter Pink June 2019 ∫ 29

WOMANKIND holidays, while she was spending some party and it was then that he time with her family back in England, confessed to her that he was she went for a walk with her sister passionately in love with her. Mosley, forgetting her open diary on the who was married to Cynthia Curzon, drawing room table. When she mother of his three children, already returned home, she discovered that had the reputation of being a serial her mother had found out that in Paris philanderer. When the two couples she had broken the rules by going to met on a holiday in Venice, it became the cinema alone with a young man. obvious to both Cynthia and Bryan As expected, Diana made a that there was an affair going on sensational success, receiving many between their two respective spouses. proposals in 1928, the year of her coming out. This was, after all, the basic reason for the elaborate event. One of her admirers was Bryan Guinness, son of Lord Moyne, a serious young man, heir to an immense fortune. Diana accepted, but her mother, believing that the couple was too young both for marriage and for handling such a vast fortune, suggested they waited two years before they announced their engagement.

In spite of the opposition, they secretly got engaged.

Unity, Diana and Nancy Mitford in 1932.

days in Germany with her sister Unity, who regularly spent long periods living there. She also intended to attend that year’s Nuremberg Parteitag [political rally] with her sister. Hitler was to speak, and through her friend Ernst Hanfstaengl, Hitler’s foreign press chief, she managed to obtain a press card that would allow her to attend meetings.

The following year, with Tom and Unity, she again returned to the Nuremberg Rally, and to her delight, she found out that not only had seats been reserved for them for the opera at the Bayreuth Festival, but that these were next to Eva Braun’s, Hitler’s mistress.

In 1936, Diana and Unity were Hitler’s personal guests at the Olympic Games. Every day, they were escorted to the stadium in a limousine purposely provided by the Führer. The previous year’s invitation to the Bayreuth opera festival was repeated. During this sojourn, Diana stayed with the

“THIS WAS AN AGE WHEN MORALS WERE FLEXIBLE; AS LONG AS AFFAIRS WERE CARRIED OUT WITH DISCRETION AND AS LONG AS THERE WERE NO PUBLIC SCANDALS, SOCIETY WAS TOLERANT” Diana was in love with Bryan and it was not the money that attracted her to him. It was more the freedom from the constraints imposed on her by her parents that made her impatient to wait. Denied the opportunity to break away, she spent her days sulking until her parents had to give in, and on January 30, 1929, they got married.

Within two years, they had two sons, Jonathan and Desmond.

One evening in 1932, Diana found herself sitting next to Sir Oswald Mosley – a man who had already made his mark in politics – during a dinner at a friend’s house. Before this introduction, she had already caught his attention and, as he later stated in his memoirs, “her starry blue eyes, golden hair” and “the ineffable expression of a Gothic Madonna” had immediately captivated him. But it was after this first introduction that they started seeking each other out at the many parties and events to which they happened to be both invited.

In June of that same year, Mosley was invited to Diana’s 22nd birthday 30 ∫ Pink June 2019

Although Diana did not wish to hurt her husband, she decided she could not live without Mosley, and while Bryan was away in Switzerland, she informed him by letter that she had decided to leave him. Her mind was set and neither pressure, nor threats, nor persuasion could make her change it. She left the matrimonial home taking along her two sons and a skeleton staff and settled down in an apartment round the corner from where Mosley lived.

This was an age when morals were flexible; as long as affairs were carried out with discretion and as long as there were no public scandals, society was tolerant. But when Diana made known her intention of divorcing Bryan, the situation changed; divorce was unacceptable and social suicide.

Her parents were totally against it and ordered their other children to sever any communication with their erring sister.

In the autumn of 1934, to improve her German, which she had started studying, Diana decided to spend a few

Goebbels with whom she was on very friendly terms. It was at their apartment that on October 6 of that same year she and Mosley were married.

Cynthia, Mosley’s wife, had died of peritonitis in 1933, the same year that Diana had obtained her divorce from Bryan. Yet Diana and Mosley had chosen not to get married; the opposition against taking such a step was too vehement. A short and quiet wedding ceremony in Berlin was a perfect solution to this dilemma.

Hitler, who was the guest of honour, attended the ceremony and gave them a photograph of himself in “a silver frame” with the initials A.H. and the German eagle engraved on it.

The British Consul was asked not to publish it and only the parents, Tom and Unity were informed about the wedding, but it was made public when their first son Alexander was born – otherwise he would have been considered illegitimate.

Contact between Diana and Hitler up until the outbreak of World War II

WOMANKIND was on a frequent and friendly basis.

She timed her visits to Germany to when the Führer was in Berlin, staying at the Kaiserhof Hotel close to the Chancery and letting him know when she was there.

After a day’s work, Hitler often invited her to the Chancery. In her autobiography, A Life of Contrasts, she writes that she spent many evenings with him: “sometimes we watched a film, sometimes we talked…”

There is no doubt that Hitler enjoyed Diana’s company. Not only did her type of beauty fit in with his idea of the superiority of the Aryan race, but she also had the advantage of being related to Churchill.

Besides being ambitious, Diana, unlike the naive Unity, was politically astute and she knew that her beauty was a weapon by which she could achieve what she wanted. There was, in fact, a serious reason for cultivating Hitler’s friendship.

Mosley needed financial support to organise the costly campaigns of the British Union of Fascists [BUF] of which he was the leader. To achieve this, he intended setting up a commercial radio station, based in Germany, but

broadcasting in England. Diana was the key to convince Hitler to give him the go-ahead. The project was carried out in 1938.

When World War II broke out, it was not just Mosley’s political reputation that plummeted; he became a potential security risk and was arrested under rule 18B of the Emergency Powers Act, which allowed detention without trial. Soon afterwards, the Home Secretary, on the information supplied by, among others, Diana’s own sister, Nancy, and her fatherin-law Lord Moyne, argued that Diana herself was equally dangerous and she too was arrested and sent to Holloway prison for women for the duration of the war.

Diana had just given birth to her second son, Max, and never forgave Churchill for separating her from her baby. After some time, Mosley and Diana were reunited in Holloway prison.

Except for Tom, all the family was against Diana’s political affiliations and her sister Decca [Jessica], who was a confirmed communist, called her, her “ghastly Fascist sister” and believed she ought to have been put against the wall and shot.

Sir Oswald Mosley and Diana.

When the war was over, the Mosleys lived first in Ireland and later in Paris in a house close to where the Duke and Duchess of Windsor lived. In spite of the fact that Mosley continued to have regular casual affairs, which naturally irked Diana, they remained devoted to each other and their marriage lasted 44 years. Mosley, who suffered from Parkinson’s disease, died in 1980.

Diana had a successful writing career.

She edited magazines and contributed articles to leading newspapers. Besides writing reviews of contemporary literature, she also published her autobiographies.

She died in Paris in 2003, survived by her four sons, and was interred in St Mary’s Church in Swinbrook, Oxfordshire, alongside her sisters.

Photography Sarah Zerafa

Photography Bernard Polidano

FASHIONSTORY

A LOVE LETTER TO STYLE There are two types of people in this world: those who follow fashion blindly with no rhyme or reason; and those who turn their experiences of life and beauty into an exquisite love letter to style. Iggy Fenech falls into the latter group. An accomplished writer by day and a sartorial superhero by night, his clothes weave beautiful narratives that ANNA MARIE GALEA is here to unravel.

S

o, when did you realise that you could use clothes to tell a story?

I think it started when I was around 16 years old.

I was going out one Saturday night and I decided to wear something a bit more out there. I can still remember it like it was yesterday; I wore a baby blue polo shirt, super skinny low-rise jeans [it was the mid-2000s after all], an oversized coat in wool and snakeskin pointy shoes.

It was the first offbeat, ‘ridiculous’ outfit that I had ever put together, but when everyone started noticing it and me in it, I realised the power clothes had to communicate.

After that, I felt like I was on a high and raided my father’s, mother’s and brothers’ wardrobes where I found lots of things I could potentially wear, including a red and white checked blazer from the 1970s, which I wore with a black shirt and white tie. I’m still on the fence about it, but I must have looked a sight…

Of course, your sense of style evolved with time and you became better not only at choosing pieces, but by choosing pieces that had significance…

Over time, I just became better at putting things together, but to be honest, sometimes, I’m still surprised by people’s reactions to them. The thing is that while my outfits have gotten more elaborate, I don’t dress up for the sake of dressing up and, in fact, throughout the years, my clothes have been used to convey messages.

Pink June 2019 ∫ 33

FASHIONSTORY

Mention one particular outfit you wore that had great emotional significance.

I was attending an exhibition at camilleriparismode a couple of days after the assassination of journalist Daphne Caruana Galizia and I decided to wear an all-black outfit with two pocket squares: one white with lace trimmings and one red. The symbolism was that Malta, embodied by the red and white pocket squares, was being engulfed by a sense of mourning represented by the ‘sea’ of black.

It was very personal too as I felt the need to pay tribute to a brave woman, but I also felt a great amount of guilt over the fact that I couldn’t change what had happened. I think I felt like I could have and should have done more, and I was in mourning not only for her, but for the country as a whole. It was a dark time.

You continued to use your clothing as social commentary, and in 2018, you turned everyone’s - onella to the Malta head when you wore an gh Fashion Awards…

I really thought long and hard about the gh-onella outfit; I was petrified before I put it on in public. I wore a traditional suit coupled with a brown velvet bow tie and a 34 ∫ Pink June 2019

Photography Sarah Zerafa Filigree ear brooch Kevin and Eric Attard

Photography Anna Marie Galea Cape Luke Azzopardi

Photography Philip Sultana

– ONELLA IS “THE MESSAGE I WAS TRYING TO CONVEY THROUGH WEARING THE GH THAT WE HAVE LOST A LOT OF THINGS ON THE WAY TO OUR SUPPOSED PROGRESS”

cameo brooch because I felt that would really fit in with the gh-onella itself. I also wore a pair of sunglasses in pink velvet, which I picked up from Flying Tiger for a fiver.

It’s quite funny because I sent a photo of my outfit to my mother, who truly is my greatest enabler, and she replied with: ‘You look great, but aren’t the sunglasses a bit much?’

The message I was trying to convey through wearing the gh-onella is that we have lost a lot of things on the way to our supposed progress. It’s true that the modern world doesn’t really need an gh-onella – they’re cumbersome and restrictive although, in an odd way, also empowering – but what is sad is that a lot of things are still being lost daily.

Tower blocks mar the skyline and you can find cranes, ugliness and squalor everywhere. We seem to be obsessed with the new, but we shouldn’t forget what has made us us.

Before I wore it, I carried out a lot of research: I spoke to both jewellery historian and former curator of Palazzo Falson, Francesca Balzan – who has since created a beautiful Louis XIV-inspired brooch for me – and fashion historian Caroline Tonna, who has since become the curator of Palazzo Falson, to be certain of the cultural connotations it may have had. It was such a big thing to wear.

Photography Matthew Mamo Flowers Alistair Floral Design

Photography Bernard Polidano Flowers Alistair Floral Design Scarf Parascandalo

Photography Daniel Azzopardi

FASHIONSTORY

attributed to Marcus Gheeraerts the Younger, entitled the Rainbow Portrait. In it, Queen Elizabeth can be seen clutching a rainbow with her right hand, while her other hand leads the gaze to her dress where eyes, ears and lips signify that she can hear and see everything, everywhere.

“CLOTHING HAS ALWAYS BEEN THE EASIEST AND MOST FOOLPROOF WAY OF EXPRESSING MYSELF. IN FACT, I THINK IT’S THE ONLY TIME I FEEL LIKE I AM BEING COMPLETELY MYSELF. CLOTHES ALSO HELP ME BREAK MY RESERVED AND SHY NATURE, WHICH CAN SO EASILY TAKE OVER MY MOOD” Far from seeking the shock factor that many others might be after, your wish is to start conversations that might otherwise not necessarily be had…

I don’t wear clothes to offend, but I do like the way people look at them and talk about them… Having said that, I do have my reservations when it comes to things that could be deemed cultural appropriation. I think we all take inspiration from each other and I do wear things that are outside of my culture. However, when I do so, I make sure to reference it.

In fact, when I wore a kurta [a type of Indian garment] to a Carla Grima fashion show at The Phoenicia, I made sure to point out that it had been a gift from the Goyals, an Indian family my friends and I visited in India a few years ago. There was an emotional connection for me there and I felt that was fine.

To designer and couturier Luke Azzopardi’s last show, I wore an outfit inspired by a portrait of Elizabeth I,

My ode to this painting – which was more aesthetic than conceptual – manifested itself in a ruff made from 100-year-old, hand-made Maltese lace, and a silver filigree ear designed by Eric Attard and handmade by Kevin Attard. This was topped with a velvet blazer and red ribbons to add colour and contrast.

Despite how seriously you take clothes, you are adamant that there doesn’t always have to be social or historical context for dressing up…

Clothing has always been the easiest and most foolproof way of expressing myself. In fact, I think it’s the only time I feel like I am being completely myself. Clothes also help me break my reserved and shy nature, which can so easily take over my mood. So, yes, clothes help me express myself better than words. I guess you could say that they are my art.

Follow Iggy Fenech’s journey through fashion on Instagram @iggyfenech

Pink June 2019 ∫ 35

SHOWSTOPPER

GREEN FOR GO RETREAT INTO THE SHADE AND BLEND INTO YOUR NATURAL SURROUNDINGS IN LIMES, KHAKIS, AVOCADO, OLIVE AND EMERALD. STAY FRESH IN LOOSE AND PLAYFUL JUMPSUITS.

Photography MarieClaire Portelli ∫ Styling Marisa Grima [marisgrima.com] ∫ Hair Dominic Bartolo @ Domdreads ∫ Make-up Talitha Dimech ∫ Models Hannah and Elenoir at Supernova MM

Etnia Barcelona sunglasses, both €189, O’hea Opticians.

36 ∫ Pink June 2019

SHOWSTOPPER Jasper Conran swimsuit, €58: dress, €35, both Debenhams ∫ necklace; bag, both stylist’s own.

Pink June 2019 ∫ 37

SHOWSTOPPER

Jumpsuit, €47.99, M&Co.

38 ∫ Pink June 2019

SHOWSTOPPER

Jumpsuit, €35.99, NOOS.

Dress, €279, Tommy Hilfiger.

Pink June 2019 ∫ 39

SHOWSTOPPER

Dress, €89, Oltre.

40 ∫ Pink June 2019

SHOWSTOPPER

Jumpsuit, €49.99; jacket, €49.99, both Debenhams.

Pink June 2019 ∫ 41

SHOWSTOPPER

Top, €24.99; trousers, €24; Faith shoes, €25, all Debenhams.

42 ∫ Pink June 2019

THEUNIFORM

T

he closest thing to Ascot here is the Cawnpore Cup at Marsa – a thrilling polo match organised by the Malta Polo Club. Since this season’s Pink Fashion Show unfolded on a racecourse and featured the game, adding a sporty touch to the whole event, the question of what to wear became a resounding topic of conversation.

Those of us who like to get all dressed up, especially the women, may have dreamt of attending Ascot, wearing a silly hat, a pretty dress and an impractical pair of shoes. However, for many, the unknown dress code was rather daunting and confusing.

WE’RE GOING TO THE RACES! Fashion blogger and stylist CAROLINE PARIS goes through the ‘who wore what’ of #Pinkgoespolo. Browse through her favourite outfits of the night for some styling ideas and tips this season.

In the end, it turned out that dresses were definitely the favourite among the ladies. This may have been due to the nature of the event, or even the weather, which has become rather warm. But definitely, the tendency was to go for something fresh and pretty.

Of course, in these pictures, I’ve tried to capture those outfits that perhaps had something a bit particular about them, so I also included a handful of trouser wearers.

I particularly love Carina Camilleri’s outfit: her voluminous shirt, paired with the sleek cut of her trousers and the headscarf was a winning combo.

I was hoping to spot a few interesting hair accessories, but there weren’t a great many of them, although Taryn Mamo Cefai did bring a parasol to the show and Iggy Fenech carried an umbrella and a fan.

There were also some serious eye-candy accessories in the form of sunglasses. Since the event started at 6pm, many brought along a good pair of shades.

In terms of patterns, stripes were a definite favourite.

I must admit that these have been a recurring trend for a few seasons now, but there is nothing like the warmer months, and a sports event to boot, to bring this pattern out in full force.

Some guests opted for lots of colour and bright accessories, but there was also quite a bit of pure white and beige around. White dresses are always a winner in the summer months. They are easy to dress up or down and can be altered quite drastically by simply adding a bright belt or scarf.

Photography Kurt Paris

Pink June 2019 ∫ 43

PINK@THEPARTY The Pink Fashion Show, a Times of Malta event, was recently held at the Malta Polo Club in Marsa.

The 12th edition of the popular event, organised by Pink magazine, saw the participation of Calzedonia, Cortefiel, Gauda Shoes, Gerry Weber, Mexx, NOOS, O’hea Opticians, Pedro del Hierro, Samsonite, US Polo Assn by OK Fashion, Vascas and Women’secret.

Photography Jonathan Borg, Gordon Formosa, Andre Gialanze, Mark Soler

Pink June 2019 ∫ 45

Behind the scenes and more‌

46 âˆŤ Pink June 2019

Photography Kurt Paris

CALZEDONIA

CORTEFIEL

GAUDA SHOES

GERRY WEBER

Pink June 2019 ∫ 47

MEXX

NOOS

O’HEA OPTICIANS

48 ∫ Pink June 2019

SAMSONITE

PEDRO DEL HIERRO

VASCAS

US POLO ASSN BY OK FASHION

WOMEN’SECRET

VASCAS

Pink June 2019 ∫ 49

The Pink Fashion Show was supported by Casapinta and Ovation Events and Logistics, Campari, Coccinelle, Eeetwell, Gasan Zammit Motors Ltd, Mazda, Go, Häagen-Dazs, Kinnie, L’Allée by Pippa Toledo, Lancaster, La Prairie, Nestlé Yes, Nescafé Dolce Gusto, Qronfla, Sicilia Outlet Village and Trussardi, with the collaboration of D Salon and Guerlain.

50 ∫ Pink June 2019

PINKPROMO

FINDING THE PERFECT HOME Born in December 2008, BEN ESTATES was the brainchild of Bernard Mangion, who decided to branch out on his own after four years in the industry that remains his passion 11 years on.

ANNA MARIE GALEA speaks to him about what it takes to carve out one of the best reputations on the island and how his love for the industry has inspired others.

“I

n the beginning, it was hard,” Bernard Mangion kicks off. “I started out from a small office in Iklin with zero properties on my database. No one knew our name or anything about us. To top it all off, in 2008, we were in the midst of a global recession.

“The first three years were literally hell: the hours were long, and it just felt like we couldn’t catch a break. However, even in the darkest hours, I never wanted to give up because I love the industry so very much.”

It was this love of the job that not only kept Mr Mangion pushing harder, but also helped him embrace new challenges: “In this line, every day brings with it a new set of trials. Every single day is different from the one before it and I think that is what makes this work so addictive.

“In addition to this, I always felt like I was nurturing and seeing a baby grow; this comes with an unbelievable amount of satisfaction. It took us three years of hard graft to build and stabilise our property database and our team has been growing ever since.”

Indeed, for Mr Mangion nothing comes before the happiness and satisfaction of both his clients and his dedicated team of people: “We have always prided ourselves on giving a very dedicated service and we are able to do that thanks to excellent teamwork. We have 80 agents in seven offices, including Gozo, and we pride ourselves on our personal service.

“All our agents are happy because they feel like they are part of a big family. In fact, no one has left the company in the last five years, which is a source of great contentment for me.”

This feel-good factor is also widely felt by BEN ESTATES’ returning customers, who, many times, do not only purchase their first home from them, but also return again if and when they decide to buy a second: “We specialise in 52 ∫ Pink June 2019

first-time as well as second-time buyers and our ethos has always been to find the perfect house to fit our clients’ wants, needs and budgets.

“We must be doing something right because we have a lot of returning customers and, in fact, I would say that at the moment, we have more second-time buyers, who are looking for an upgrade on their first homes than ever before. We are always here to help and give advice.”

So, what does he think about the current situation of the property market? “Each and every property is an investment. When property goes up, growth increases too.

Of course, houses have become much more limited, so my advice to people is always to try to invest in houses if

PINKPROMO

“HOUSES HAVE BECOME MUCH MORE LIMITED, SO MY ADVICE TO PEOPLE IS ALWAYS TO TRY TO INVEST IN HOUSES IF POSSIBLE” possible. The market itself has stabilised since November. At this point, I think it is safe to say that prices are neither going up nor down. I think that people will find this encouraging.”

Mr Mangion’s enthusiasm for his job is infectious, as is his love for the company he has helped build piece by piece with a lot of care and attention: “I am always told that we have a good name out there and this gives me great joy because we really do go out of our way to give our clients the best service possible.

“If there’s one thing that really matters to us at BEN ETATES more than anything else, it’s our clients’ happiness, which is why we always do our best to give them all the necessary support we can while making sure that we stick to both their budgets as well as their expectations.

Whether the client is looking for an architect or a notary, we are there to advise.

“I have always greatly believed in this company and can’t wait to see what the future has in store for us.”

Pink June 2019 ∫ 53

SNAPSHOT

SACRIFICE TO SUCCEED Eighteen hours of Maria Cutajar’s day are all about fashion. The designer’s latest collection, captured in this shoot, depicts “beautiful women, beneath whose beauty there is pain, but who will keep being strong”.

H

ow would you describe the local fashion scene?

Is there room for growth and creativity? What are the positives and the shortcomings of entering this industry in Malta? The local fashion scene is

growing faster, especially since, from last year, we have a fashion course in Malta and fashion students can achieve their dreams in this sector. There is always room for creativity, but it only gets harder. With so many things being created, being innovative becomes more difficult. You have to push your creativity even further. Entering this industry is not easy and means many sleepless nights. A designer needs a team behind her brains and work. But it is not possible to have a team from the early stages.

So, most of the work in the beginning is done from home. Year after year, you will see progress. Thanks to Malta Fashion Week and Awards, things are made easier for us. It’s a huge promotion and great support for us Maltese designers.

Where did it all start from for you? It all started from a very young age. I was inspired by my mother. In the past, most women used to sew for their kids and my mother used to spend days creating costumes and matching outfits for my brother and I. My other inspiration was my grandfather, who passed away a few days before my graduation. He was very creative in woodwork and always pushed his limits to be innovative.

People still don’t understand the meaning of couture. Hopefully, by the end of this year, I will have my own shop and will create unique pieces that will be available for people. I will continue creating custom-made outfits for clients. It’s a joy to see happiness in people’s eyes when you create a piece for them.

“I CAN SAY THAT FOR THE LAST TWO YEARS SINCE MY GRADUATION, I HAVE DEDICATED ALL MY LIFE AND TIME TO MY DREAM” How many times have you participated in Malta Fashion Week and what is the significance of this event on the local scene and for designers like yourself? This year was my fifth

time participating. I started in 2014 and 2015 as a new designer. And in 2016, I presented my own full show.

How much time do you dedicate to this? I can say that for the

last two years since my graduation, I have dedicated all my life and time to my dream. I spend nights working after returning home from lecturing on fashion at MCAST. I can really say that 18 hours a day is all about fashion in my life at the moment. I have always believed that dreams can be achieved with hard work.

What is your dream when it comes to fashion design? My

How would you describe your style and what are you recognised by? My style is high-end fashion; all items are

dream is to bring couture tailoring techniques back to Malta.

finished with tailoring techniques. I believe it is classic and Pink June 2019 ∫ 57

SNAPSHOT

THINKPINK FOOD & FASHION

A TRULY UNIQUE MALTESE CULINARY EXPERIENCE Situated in the heart of Mosta, Ta’ Marija Restaurant encourages you to savour their creative Maltese and Mediterranean cuisine; a cuisine that inspires even the most discerning palate. With more than 50 years of experience, the family-run restaurant is a signature experience, offering an elegant, warm and informal ambience and a quality, yet friendly service. Open seven days a week for lunch and dinner, the restaurant offers Maltese themed nights every Wednesday and Friday [complete with folk dancers, mandolins and guitars] and an all-inclusive buffet extravaganza on Saturday nights and Sunday lunches for only €30, with regular live shows and entertainment. Plus you can also dine al fresco thanks to the outdoor dining area, enjoying stunning views of the Mosta church. For bookings, call on 2143 4444. www.tamarija.com

chic, but with an avant-garde twist. My outfits are recognised by their unusual cuts, shapes and forms.

Tell us about this latest collection? One of my latest

collections was inspired by the Gothic era. It’s a romantic style that shows a very beautiful, strong woman.

And the inspiration for these photos? The photos perfectly

reflect the idea of the collection: beautiful women, beneath whose beauty there is pain, but who will keep being strong.

How do you dress yourself?

My style is smart with an oriental twist. I love the oriental culture; I love wearing abayas from the Arab cultures too. Lately, however, my style is becoming sportier. I used to spend days in heels, but I really can’t wear them for more than 30 minutes.

So, trainers are my best friends and I mix them with smart wear and still feel smart.

And who is the Maria Cutajar woman? The more the days

go by, the more I believe I’m a strong and determined women.

My motto in life is: where there 58 ∫ Pink June 2019

is a will, there is a way. I work hard to achieve my dreams, and maybe sometimes, I push myself beyond the limit. I am very sensitive, but most of the time, I try to hide it. I have one big problem though: I am never on time and have big issues with deadlines.

The worst thing is when my OCD kicks in and I can’t control it. I am also very outgoing, and enjoy spending time with people in places where my mind can rest. This is the woman I want to project in my designs.

Who would you most love to dress? I think all fashion

designers dream of one day having a dress on a red carpet in Hollywood. But I can’t think of anyone in particular.

Photography Gordon Formosa @ Go Raw Photography ∫ Designer Maria Cutajar ∫ Styling Maria Micallef ∫ Hair Vanusia Mifsud Vella ∫ Make-up Marlene Vassallo ∫ Model Katrina Pavia

HELLO HOLLYWOOD! Planet Hollywood Malta, the iconic restaurant and bar dedicated to celebrating the entertainment industry, has opened its doors at Bay Street Shopping Complex, celebrating the glitz of Hollywood in its unique style.

LOVELY DOES IT! From office to beach to weddings – lovely does it for every occasion at Oasis, Sliema! Let the sun shine into your wardrobe with this season’s most stunning shoes, bags, swimwear and summer fashion. Discover Oasis’ iconic British flair at its extraordinary Tower Road location, where you can even snip, snap and shop with complimentary espresso and WiFi in its spacious dressing lounge!