SYCHIL 6 by Tina Givens

Celebrating individuality through style, stitches and design.

SYCHIL DREAMY

Rejuvenate in soft sleepy style.

SURPRISE

Feel Pretty

LACE, FABRIC & TRIM

always in soft pink cotton, ivory and taupe.

Necklaces to make and Stitch

Profile

Make a new

MAGICAL slip from the Briare

Featuring the poetic & conceptual designer, ELENA DAWSON

ISSUE 06 USA $24.95 Canada $27.95 UK £19.95 AUS $27.95 Japan ¥2600 Rest of World £19.95

EXPRESS YOUR INDIVIDUALITY THROUGH STYLE • PERSPECTIVE • CRAFT • LIFE

dream

issue

the

Cover Image: Angelique Gown S-062001 Photography: Alan Davidson At Left: Otis Tee & Skeet Skirt (A Free Pattern)

SYCHIL

Magazine Editorial Office: 4338 Delemere Blvd Ste B Royal Oak MI 48073 info@tinagivens.com Publisher: TG Studios, llc Editor in Chief: Tina Givens Editor: Katelyn Morris Advertising Manager: Olivia Almeljo Copy Editor: Katherine Shu

SYCHIL

2 Prairie Slip • Medallion Necklace P22,23

{ISBN# 978.1.640204.6442.6) is published by TG Studios, llc. Registered Office 4338 Delemere Blvd • Royal Oak • MI 48073 Copyright © TG Studios, llc. /SYCHIL llc. 2019 All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. The editor reserves the right to edit, shorten or modify any material submitted. The decision on all printed or digitally published is final. The views expressed by contributors are not necessarily those of SYCHIL llc. or the editor. Unsolicited material will be considered but cannot be returned. Printing 580 California Street, San Francisco, CA 94104. Postmaster send address corrections to SYCHIL Magazine INFO&TINAGIVENS.COM. Subscriptions vary. Visit SYCHIL.COM for more information.

ISSUE 06 THE DREAM ISSUE

cover

contents

Angelique Gown

features FEEL PRETTY Featuring feather light options for lounging.

Priscilla, new Angelique and Reworked Lotus into a dreamy everyday nigh gown. Priscilla 4 Angelique 10 Lotus 14

NECKLACE WORKSHOP LACE APPLIQUE Using an old time favorite with quick resources and a few materials you’ll have a gorgeous necklace to frame your beautiful face. SILK + TRIM A medallion like no other. You will love making these. They’re sort of addictive.

FOUR FREE PATTERNS JUST FOR YOU ANGELIQUE GOWN 10 DANI DRESS 19-21 GIGI TOP 25,27 ROSE TUNIC 24,26

TWO REWORKED PATTERNS YOU WILL LOVE

back cover

BRIARE Slip in silk organza (one skirt)

pattern listing IN THIS ISSUE

LOTUS 10,14 ANGELIQUE 10 PRAIRIE 1 ROSE 24,26 BRIARE 27,29,32 PRISCILLA 4 SKEET SKIRT 8 DANI 19-21 OTIS TOP 8 ORELLA 27,29 SUGAR SLIP 5 ELOTA 16

standards 6...INSPIRATION BOARD This time I played with light colors in creams and ivory, palest gray and skewed with pinks. 5...BIAS A note from Tina Givens 7... PROFILE Elena Dawson 15...Favorite quote...

It’s okay to take time for yourself. 31... RESOURCES

LOTUS - DREAMY LOTUS REPLAY 14,30 BRIARE SLIP - ORELLA 27,29

Priscilla A Free Pattern

So many thousands of Priscilla Sewing Patterns have been downloaded. It is joyful to know that so many of you are making something soft and sweet and personal for yourselves. To me this is the most useful garment in my closet. I wear it under many different dresses and tunics and it creates a different look every time! Here we paired Priscilla in ivory linen with the Sugar Slip. Throw them on and go....

Love this Look? Priscilla 4 Download Priscilla Slip free!

BIAS Spring is around the corner for some of us! And with it brings issue 6 of our lovely magazine SYCHIL. We have all slowed down into the strange global motion of our times. I wish for us all to spend the time to self-reflect and spend time on our most precious projects, and loved ones. Worry and stress fill some of our heads, but with keeping busy and creating, I hope to offer some relief and preoccupation.

Sugar slip over long Priscilla Slip.

For me, I am painting more and dreaming up all sorts of new wardrobes for myself. Designing and creating a garment is a passion spot for me, and crafting that into a sharable project for you is a pleasure. This year is bringing much change for all of us. For me it’s taking a step back from garment production and the hectic pace of the fashion world. It’s been a wonderful change, and allowed me to refocus on more important projects. SYCHIL & designing for you are top of my list always. SYCHIL is designed to inspire you with ideas, techniques and pattern remixes to enhance your experience with the sewing patterns. Creating the new ‘experience’ website www.buildyourcollection.com (sychil.com) we have developed the wardrobe planner and workshop series, plus free patterns to play with. We have built an interactive forum where you can enjoy and participate with other TG fans who reveal their garments; we wish for you to experience what TG stands for which is to inspire your world, with creative thought, design, expression and self-awareness. To create a closet full of pieces to express who you are to the core. I adore you, I watch what you’re making and I listen to your incredible stories. I hope you love SYCHIL 6 as it’s dreamy projects symbolize a slowdown. Watch life with a soft lens and keep yourself and your loved ones safe. With love and appreciation, tg

inspiration

6 t i n a

g i v e n s

“I don’t like to over plan a collection and prefer it to remain at the idea stage. I don’t want to explain it to myself, to be too self-conscious of what I make when I’m making it”

ELENA DAWSON

Poetic and conceptual, Elena Dawson seems to reveal a vulnerable spirit of the garments.

I discovered Elena Dawson and became so intrigued with her raw instinctual design aesthetic. Her garments and shoes are a cross between Victorian goth and romance. Deconstructed and beautifully made her voice is clear in that she is telling a story. London based, Dawson and her small artisan team create each garment in-house. She works in organic fibers of wool, silk, linen and cotton and crafts beautiful garments and accessories that possess an ephemeral timeless quality. Her clothing is made meticulously, and yet she uses patina-ed and worn-out fabrics, overlaying skirts, raw edges and threads, and even shoes that tell her story.

Elena’s deconstructed process is to reduce a garment to its constituent parts and reinterpret it into her story. Waist coats (vests) and coats with distressed edges, crumpled and wrinkled silk blouses, dresses with raw ruffles or fabric roses and extraordinary thoughtful accessories. Poetic and so conceptual, she seems to reveal the vulnerable spirit of a garment.

Elena Dawson is a unique creator who maintains an adamant individuality. Her unmistakable voice shapes her garments and accessories that evoke ephemeral and romantic touches of the past. The unfinished seams, raw edges and hanging fabric strips ask the wearer to complete the clothes with their own experiences. There’s just a magical and definite clarity to her work. Elena is a fixture at the Dover Street Market in London, UK with ethereal deliberate exhibits! She truly is someone I’d love to meet. Take a further look online.

INSPIRATION PAGE Top right: Couture Magic AZZI OSTA AW18/19; Art Top Right: Anna Maria Garthwaite 1732; Top Left Art: Margaret MacDonald 1864-1933; Elena Dawson 2018 English apparel and accessories designer; Silk Ribbon: Hannah Silk Ribbons; Mid-Page 1020’s Dress Private Collection, Andrea Robyns. Left bottom: Luella Top over Sugar Top SewTinaGivens.com

Otis NEW

TG-A9120

Using extra soft modal jersey, rayon or something similar, edged in feather light voile or silk organza we turn a simple shape into something spectacular. This new pattern on sewtinagivens.com uses unique technique that I am sure you will find useful in your personal creations. A little patience in sewing the strips... And a fabulous wear.

Shown with the new FREE pattern SKEET SKIRT, available on sewtinagivens.com and sychil.com.

LAWN Voile

GOWN

Angelique

Something soft and beautiful just for you. Making something so personal is so fulfilling, especially something so pretty and special. This night gown is meant to be worn at home, or if you have hospital time, why not? Make these glorious sleeves and use natural buttons for a soft finish. We used a soft pink lawn and trimmed up in silk organza.

A FREE SYCHIL PATTERN S-060601

COTTON Voile, SILK Organza trim, organic nut buttons. Angelique is a piece that will be in your â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;loungeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; closet forever!

CUTTING

Angelique

G OWN

Glorious, feminine and comfortable all at the same time. We created Angelique in feather light voile, but could be perfect in feather light linen, rayon, jersey knit or even in velvet for cooler evenings.

See Technical Drawings on Pattern Sheet

SEWING BACK BACK COLLAR COLLAR

BACK BACK COLLAR COLLAR

Pleats Pleats are are made made after after the the BACK BACK COLLAR COLLAR stitched stitched together. together.

LIQUE #6 IL ANGE S6-2001 S6-2001 TS SYCH 4 FRON CUT

Pocket Pocket Placement Placement

ANGELIQUE S6-2001 S6-2001 SYCHIL #6 FRONTS CUT 2

ANGELIQUE S6-2001 S6-2001 SYCHIL #6 FRONT LOWER PANELS

ANGELIQUE S6-2001 S6-2001

CUT 2

SYCHIL #6 FRONT LOWER PANELS

CUT 2

ANGELIQUE S6-2001 S6-2001 SYCHIL #6 BACK CUT 1

ANGELIQUE S6-2001 S6-2001 SYCHIL #6 FRONTS CUT 4

SYCHIL #6 SLEEVES CUT 2 ANGELIQUE / PLACE ALONG THE FOLD

ANGELIQUE / PLACE ALONG THE FOLD

ANGELIQUE S6-2001 S6-2001 ANGELIQUE / PLACE ALONG THE FOLD

DLOF EHT GNOLA ECALP / EUQILEGNA

Pocket Pocket Placement Placement

ANGELIQUE / PLACE ALONG THE FOLD EUQILEGNA 11000022--66SS

Pocket Pocket Placement Placement

6# LIHCYS SEVEELS 2 TUC

ANGELIQUE / PLACE ALONG THE FOLD

ANGELIQUE S6-2001 S6-2001 ANGELIQUE S6-2001 S6-2001

ANGELIQUE S6-2001

SYCHIL #6 SLEEVES CUT 2 SYCHIL #6 SLEEVES CUT 2

ANGELIQUE S6-2001

ANGELIQUE / PLACE ALONG THE FOLD

SYCHIL #6 SLEEVE RUFFLE CUT 2

ANGELIQUE / PLACE ALONG THE FOLD

XS-3X

Pattern Pieces: Back Panel, front panels x2, sleeves x2, front lower panels x2. Sleeve Ruffles x 2 (optional) Not in pattern pieces: Binding for neckline and fronts, + cuffs -- cut 2” or 5cm wide x 110” or 280cm; Cuffs 2 each 2” or 5cm wide x 40” or 100cm.

S-060601

M AT E R I A L S 44” or 110cm wide 54” or 140cm wide XS/S ... 3-3/4Y • 3.40M ALL SIZES M/L .... 3-7/8Y • 3.50M 3-1/3 Y • 3.05M XL/2X/3X ... 4Y • 3.55M --------------------------+ small 3/8” / 80-90mm Buttons -- Qty 18 We used Tagua Nut Buttons, see resources. P31

SYCHIL #6 SLEEVE RUFFLE CUT 2

• Place the (optional) pockets on the front panels, and the back panel as shown. Right sides together, stitch the pockets. • Pin the Lower-Front-Panels onto the Front-Panels, RST and stitch. Press, seam allowance upward, optionally top stitch across through the seam allowance and 1/4” from join. • Review the collar of the Front-Panels. French seam the collar, first wrong sides together, 1/4” seam allowance and then turn wrong sides together and stitch 3/4” SA. Top-stitch the seam allowance down. • Make the three 1/4” pleats as pattern indicates. Pin and stitch down. • Review the pattern piece, FRONT Shoulders only. Fold the three pin-tucks as indicated on the pattern on each shoulder. • Pin and stitch down 3” or 8cm from the shoulder edge. Press all toward armhole. • Mark the center back of the Back Panel and pin the center of the collar, RST, match the shoulders together and pin those together. Stretch at the corners to ease as you stitch across the shoulders and around the back neckline. Clip into the corners, press. • For the optional sleeve ruffles, run a gathering stitch along one long edge of each strip, and pull to evenly gather so the ruffle measures the same as the sleeve edge.

Continued...

• Pin the ruffles onto the sleeves, RST and stitch on. Press. Pin the center of each sleeve to the shoulders of the gown, RST and continue pinning the sleeves into the armholes. Stitch. Press. • Place the garment inside out and pin under arms, sleeves and sides, pockets and stitch. • Apply 2” wide trim to front opening and collar, by stitching the binding onto the WRONG side of the garment, raw edges to raw. Use 1/4” SA. Flip and turn binding to RIGHT side of the garment and press along the fold. Stitch the binding down 1/2” from folded edge. (Optionally roll raw edge under to finish binding. • Repeat for the sleeve edges. • Mark button holes and create. Stitch buttons in place.

Lace Appliqué Appliqué lace refers to various types of lace where the decorative motifs are applied to an existing openwork fabric such as tulle, netting, filet or drawn thread work and cut-work. The motifs can be either hand-made or machine-made. The same is true for the ground fabric. I love vintage appliqué pieces made mostly in cotton or silk. I use lace appliques in various applications but my favorite is in a necklace. It is so feather light, and lovely at the nape of the neck. Choose a color to contrast or enhance your skin tone.

This is an unexpected and beautiful necklace you’ll love to own! When ever I wear one of my Lace Applique pieces I get so many compliments, and questions. What is that? Where did you get that? Well, we can make them so easily. Of course we can! I have my secret Etsy resource list just for you. One shop in particular is Sweet Inspirations who hand-dyes the lace pieces as shown here. They are beyond beautiful, I am sure you will agree! For those who do not want to make, you can purchase this style from a small boutique manufacturer in North Carolina called WHITE OWL. See P.31.

MATERIALS • 1 to 2 pieces of Vintage Lace Appliques* (see resources page 31). © Sweet Inspirations Flushing Michigan

• 12-16” (30 - 40cm) of chain in your favorite metal of choice. I use an unfussy vintage brass chain. • 1 small size Toggle or Lobster clasp to match the chain. • 2 small jump rings that open. Basically a tiny ring. (If joining two pieces or more of lace, you will need 2 for each joint. • Needle nose pliers and wire cutters You can find the chain, clasps and jump rings at any jewelry supply store. And see resource page for more. Instructions Page 25

9 11 13

Lace

NECKLACE

AppliquÃ©

Alma Knit Dress S-O2123 SYCHIL.com

D R E A M Y One of my favorite garments for lounging in is the LOTUS. So we played with the pattern a bit to make a new variation. I call this the

LOTUS REPLAY. Using the LOTUS 7009 we created a variation simplifying the construction a little. Simple tweaks by adding, omitting and shaving off -- resulted in a simple yet elegant piece to be worn as a bathroom gown or as a dress. I have been wearing mine at home during this time of quarantine. FABRIC

We used a feather-light voile in dusty pink *, You can also use rayon, velvet, linen, soft batik cotton or a soft woven cotton. REQUIREMENTS 54â&#x20AC;? or 140cm wide fabric XS & S: 2-7/8Y / 2.61M M, L, XL, 2X: 3Y / 2.75M See Instructions Page 30

* Made from 100% cotton washed lawn in dusty pink, see resources on P 31. For instructions see Page 30

Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s okay to take time for yourself. We give so much of ourselves to others and we need to be fueled both physically and mentally. If we are in balance, it helps us in all our interactionsâ&#x20AC;? Faith Hill 15

ELOTA A new pattern on SewTG, Elotaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s shape is curious to say the least. The bell shaped dress and detail with petersham (grosgrain) ribbon creates a delicate, yet raw balance. French seams and sweet style for spring days. Elota is shown here in a light silk taffeta, which holds the shape well.

I made this for a semi-formal affair and I felt so great in it. Pair this with a short crop jacket, or vintage cardigan.

Workshop} Color Hue & You. Module 2

A fun exploration about understanding body shape and getting intimate with adapting patterns to fit to our liking. The basis for this workshop is knowing what and how our body is shaped, what details we need to compliment, but also what flatters through our personal lens. Offering technique to create a personal model to base all patterns upon.

ADAPTING,www.buildyourcollection.com CREATING, SHAPING

ani

Dani is a dress-up piece in organza, but can be a playful day dress in linen or cotton. Playful sleeves, open skirts and little pleats make this dress almost fairy-like, yet it works. This dress is for the raw edge lovers out there. 3/4 sleeve, and 3 panel skirt with openings to the high-waist. Wear with a sleeveless slip and leggings or pants. Free Pattern SYCHIL6 S-060602

Instructions on Page 23

Grain Line

pLace along the fold

Magical Dani can be made in almost any lightweight fabric. Some ideas are silk organza, cotton voile, light linen, velvet, rayon, jersey knit, cotton eyelet.

DANI TG-A9120 FRONT BODICE cut 1 t i n a

g i v e n s

DANI TG-A9120 BACK BODICE cut 1 t i n a

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Grain Line

pLace along the fold

DRESS

Dani

XS-3X

S-060602

3X 2X XL L M S XS

t i n a

g i v e n s

cut 2 Sleeves

DANI

TG-A9120 Version 1.1

dlof eht gnola ecaLp pLace along the fold Version 1.1

DANI TG-A9120 Sleeves cut 2 t i n a

M AT E R I A L S 44/54” wide XS 4-1/8Y / 3.80M S 4-1/4Y / 3.85M M 4-1/4Y / 3.85M L 4-1/3Y / 3.95M XL 4-1/3Y / 3.95M 2X 4-1/2Y / 4.10M 3X 4-1/2Y / 4.15M

g i v e n s

XS S M

CUTTING

L XL 2X 3X

Pattern Pieces: Back and front bodice, sleeves. Not included: 3 Skirt Panels, each 27” or 65cm x WOF + TIES see below. Cut one front and back bodice along the fold as shown. Cut three skirt panels. Fold fabric cross grain and cut out two sleeves. Also cut a tie, 2” x 42” or 5cm x 110cm. Or 2 ties 2x21” or 5x 55cm.

See Technical Drawings on Pattern Sheet

SEWING • #1 & 2 illustrate the Front and Back Bodice pieces of the Dani. • #3 Mark the pleats across the Front Bodice shown on the pattern and in diagram #1. Make the pleats, pin. Stitch the first line closer to the neckline, then check pinned pleats along the second line that they did not move. And stitch the 2nd line in place. Make sure to backstitch both ends of the stitch line. • #4 Place the bodice pieces together matching shoulder seams. 1) If using non-translucent fabric, place right sides together, and stitch shoulders. ii) If using translucent fabric use a narrow French Seam. Wrong sides together, stitch using 1/8” and then right sides together, and stitch 1/4”. Please see GLOSSARY. • #5-6 Either hem the neckline with a hand stitched 1/8” rolled hem; or leave the neckline raw and top stitch 1/2” or 125mm from the raw edge as shown. • #7-9 Sleeves. We left the sleeve edges raw. If you prefer, hem the sleeves prior to pleating. • Mark each sleeve with the 3 lines of pleats. Pin the pleats in place and top stitch across the sleeve to secure. Repeat for all 3 lines. • #10 Pin each sleeve onto the bodice shoulder seams, right sides together. Continue pinning each sleeve into the armholes. Stitch in place. Press.

• #11 Place the bodice inside out and match the underarms, sides and sleeves together. Pin and stitch. • Finish the bodice edge by stitching a rolled hem. • #12 Dani has three skirt panels as shown. Either hem the all sides of each skirt, or top stitch around the edge 1/2” or 125mm from the raw edge to secure a raw edge finish. • #13 Make small 1/2” or 125mm pleats along the top edge of each skirt panel. The panels should measure approximately 25-30” (65cm-78cm). • #14 The three skirt panels will be placed onto the bodice, overlapping each other at least 2” or 5cm. Begin with the first one off-center front, pin skirt onto the bodice 1” above the bodice edge. Continue pinning. Overlap second skirt and continue to pin skirt in place. Overlap 3rd and pin to overlap the first skirt. You can choose to adjust the skirt placements to your preference. I prefer a bit more of an overlap so the skirts don’t open up as much when I wear the Dani. Stitch the skirts in place. • Enjoy your Dani!

Ornament #5

#1 #6 #7

#2 #8

French embroidery samples 1790 - 1800

#9 #10

INSTRUCTIONS

FA B R I C B A U B L E N E C K L A C E MATERIALS •

•

• • • • • • • • • • • • •

A chain necklace of your choice. We used a simple brass chain which came with a clasp. Of course you could purchase chain by the foot/cm and a clasp of your choice. The bauble is beautiful hanging at the chest level as shown, any lower it may not hang properly. So purchase a chain length accordingly. 2 jump rings 1/2” or 125mm, plus one 1/4” or 65mm. Fabric for your bauble, use something lightweight and smooth. Silk dupioni, cotton, light linen. Nothing translucent. You need a square about 5” or 12cm. Cotton batting to stuff your bauble, about a handful. Beaded LIP Cording to frame the bauble, see resources. 12” or 30cm in length. 0.24mm gold/silver jewelry wire, about 10” / 25cm. Silk thread, beading needle, and a regular hand stitching needle. Coordinating color. One large bead approximately 125mm / 1/2”. One head pin for the bead. Wire clippers, needle nose pliers. Piece of smooth felt about 3” round. One (or two) small filigree ornaments Handful of vintage pearls or small beads, 10mm.

#1 Stitch around the edge of the piece of fabric using wide stitches, pull the strings of the thread so it starts to gather slightly. Place a small ball of the cotton batting/stuffing into the fabric (wrong side) and start pulling th threads to encase the batting, stuff as much into the fabric so it forms a solid round shape. Smooth out the fabric on the front side and pull the threads tight. Roll the ball in your hand to soften and shape it into a ball. Stitch the opening closed. #2 -3 Flip your ball to front side and place a piece of the wire as a decorative detail onto the ball as shown, trim off excess. Curve the ends into a tiny curl. Using your silk thread stitch the wire in place as shown. Place the filigree onto the ball and stitch, hiding your beginning and ending by going right through the ball to the back. Choose either another filigree or three little stones as shown, stitch them in place forming a clump. Note: This project can be interpreted in so many ways. You can embroider on your ball, stitch a large bead, add on a cameo.

#3 - 4 Using the beaded lip cord, place a piece around the outer edge of the ball, with the ‘lip’ fabric at the back. Trim off excess, overlap ends, and stitch the trim in place forming a frame for the ball. #5 -7 Using the piece of felt, trim off a circle to fit onto the back side of the ball, to hide all the stitching. And cleanly stitch the felt onto the ball. #8 Add the two jump rings at the top center of the ball. #9 Make the jewel drop by placing the headpin into the large bead, twist the top and make a small loop. Trim off excess, and add the small jump ring. Close the jump ring. #10 And stitch the drop onto the bottom of the ball centered so the bauble will hang.

LACE APPLIQUE NECKLACE Materials listed on Page 14

#3 #1

#1 Cut the chain into two pieces using your wire cutters, by clipping one of the links and removing it. #2 Using your needle nose pliers and your fingers place one end of your closure (toggle or lobster clasp) onto one end of your chain pieces. And the other onto an end of the second chain. If the chain links do not open use a jump ring, by attaching the ring onto the chain and adding the clasp, close the jump ring opening.

#3 Attach a jump ring onto the applique lace on each end where the chain will be attached. Leave open. #4

#4 Attach the open end of the chain to the jump rings you attached onto the lace. Close the jump rings. If you’re using more than one piece of lace, attach the lace pieces with the jump rings. Use small jump rings so they are not too noticeable. See the resource page to find your own beautiful lace appliqué treasure.

Ro s e S-060603

I love this tunic length worn with a fun pant. I topped this off with a full antique rose colored scarf and amazing jewelry by Janet Waldrop of Skip-2-My-Lou. Rose is feminine and easy to make for everyday wear. She has a straight front, elbow length sleeve and full back Rose is so classic and elegant, yet whimsical all at the same time. A free pattern with this issue, see P 26 for instructions.

24 Janet Waldrop â&#x20AC;˘ Skip-2-My-Lou â&#x20AC;˘

G igi

S-060604

Meet Gigi. An easy to sew project with a set in sleeve and a cute ruffle application. Optional sleeve-ruffle, oval neckline and an unexpected ruffle detail. Check the pattern for length, and adjust to your liking. Instructions on P 27.

XS-3X

Tunic

Rose S-060603

An easy everyday tunic for you. An easy bodice, set in sleeve and fun full back skirt.

M AT E R I A L S 44” or 110cm wide or 54” or 140cm wide

XS S M L XL 2X 3X

3-2/3 Y / 4M 3-2/3 Y / 4M 3-2/3 Y / 4M 4-1/8Y / 4.5M 4-1/8Y / 4.5M 4-1/4Y / 4.60M 4-1/4Y / 4.60M Back Neckline

CUTTING Back Neckline

S-060603

Bodice

Cut 1 front and 1 back

t i n a

Grain Line

pLace along the fold

ROSE NOTE THIS PATTERN IS INCLUDED IN SYCHIL ISSUE 6

g i v e n s

PLEAT

XS S M L XL 2X

pLace along the fold

ROSE S-060603

NOTE THIS PATTERN IS INCLUDED IN SYCHIL ISSUE 6

front skirt Cut 1

g i v e n s

S-060603

ROSE

t i n a

g i v e n s

S-060603

ROSE

Sleeves cut 2

t i n a

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Sleeves cut 2

NOTE THIS PATTERN IS INCLUDED IN SYCHIL ISSUE 6

t i n a

NOTE THIS PATTERN IS INCLUDED IN SYCHIL ISSUE 6

pLace along the fold

Review the cutting layout, cut the back bodice then cut the front, along the fold of the fabric. Cut the skirt panel, and the 2 sleeves. Cut a bias binding strip 1-1/4” x 32” or 3x80cm. Cut two sleeve cuffs, 3”x 26” OR 8X65CM. Cut the hem binding a) 60”x5” or 152x12cm and b) 40x5” or 100x12cm. Cut the back skirt cross grain. Open up the fabric and cut a rectangle 60” or 150cm wide x See Skirt Lengths by size.

Front Neckline

pLace along the fold

Included Pattern Pieces: Sleeves, Bodice Front & Back, Front Skirt Panel Not Included: Back skirt panel, sleeve cuffs and hem strips + binding for the neckline, see below.

SEWING • #1 Note the front pleats along the FRONT BODICE bottom edge. Pin in place going outward from the center. Baste stitch along the bottom edge. • #2 Pin the FRONT skirt panel onto the front bodice bottom edge, RST. Stitch, press. • #3 Make small 1/2” (1.25cm) pleats evenly across the top edge of the BACK skirt panel. When complete, match this width to the bottom edge of the BACK BODICE piece. Remove any pleats along the outer edges to adjust to fit the bodice piece. • #4 Pin the Back Skirt Panel onto the Back Bodice RST and stitch. Press. Optionally top-stitch across the seam 1/4” (55mm) from seam join. • #5 Place the back and front bodices together, RST, and stitch shoulders together. • #6 Pin the center shoulder mark on the sleeves, to the shoulder seams on the bodice, RST, pin. Continue pinning the sleeve into the armhole. Stitch sleeve in place. Repeat for other side. • #7 Place Rose inside out, and match side seams, under arms, sleeves together, RST. Pin. Stitch sides seams and underarms, sleeves. Press all seams. • #8 Using the bias binding strip you precut, bind the neckline. First measure the bias binding onto the neckline and join ends (trim excess). Pin back onto the neckline, RST, matching raw edges, stitch around neckline using 1/4” or 55mm seam allowance. Press seam allowance and binding away from the neckline. Fold over the binding raw edge to wrong side 1/4” or 55mm and press. Fold the binding again over the seam allowance to meet the first row of stitches. Pin just past stitches. Stitch binding down. Try to stitch along the first stitch line to keep invisible. Press.

Tip: when pressing the binding do not stretch the fabrics, just press downward and do not slide your iron.

Skirt Lengths

XS S M L XL 2X 3X

25” / 63cm 25-1/2” / 65cm 26” / 66cm 26-1/3” / 67cm 26-1/2” / 68cm 26-7/8” / 69cm 27” / 70cm

#9 Fold the sleeve cuffs in half lengthwise, WST, and press. Measure around the sleeve, and tuck in side edges, overlap trim 1” at underarm seam. Pin onto sleeve RST, stitch, press downward. #10 Repeat this process for the hem strips. Pants shown are the Lainey Pant

Orella

www.sewtinagivens.com â&#x20AC;¢ www.sychil.com

XS-3X

Top

Gigi

Adore this top. Sleeves are 3/4 with or without the ruffle. Simple shape & delightful ruffle application.

S-060604

M AT E R I A L S 44” or 110cm wide

XS S M L XL 2X 3X

2-2/3Y / 2.40M 2-2/3Y / 2.40M 2-3/4Y / 2.50M 2-3/4Y / 2.50M 2-7/8 Y / 2.60M 2-7/8 Y / 2.60M 3Y / 2.70M

54” or 140cm wide

XS S M L XL 2X 3X

2-1/3Y / 2.15M 2-1/3Y / 2.15M 2-1/2Y / 2.25M 2-1/2Y / 2.25M 2-5/8Y / 2.35M 2-5/8Y / 2.35M 2-2/3Y / 2.40M

CUTTING See Rose Pattern Pieces: Sleeves, Bodice Front & Back, Sleeve Ruffle Not Included: Neck Binding, Ruffle Strip, hem strips Review the cutting layout, cut the back bodice then cut the front, Note, the rose pattern extended lengths for the gigi. Cut the 2 sleeves )note length. Cut the 2 sleeve ruffle cuffs. Cut a bias binding strip 1-1/4” x 32” or 3x80cm. Cut the hem binding - two 3” x WOF. And the ruffle is 5”x WOF.

USE 5/8” SEAM ALLOWANCE UNLESS OTHERWISE INSTRUCTED SEE TECHNICAL DIAGRAMS ON PATTERN SHEET

SEWING • #1 Place the back and front bodices together, RST, and stitch shoulders together. • #2 Pin the sleeve ruffle cuffs onto the sleeves, and stitch. Press. • #3 Pin the center shoulder mark on the sleeves, to the shoulder seams on the bodice, RST, pin. Continue pinning the sleeve into the armhole. Stitch sleeve in place. Repeat for other side. • #4 Place Gigi inside out, and match side seams, under arms, sleeves and cuffs, RST. Pin. Stitch sides seams and underarms, sleeves. Press all seams. • #5 Hem short sides and bottom edge of the ruffle strip. Pleat or gather the top edge so it measures about 21” or 53cm. • #6 Mark front bodice where you’d like the ruffle, the upside down “U” should not be too sharp a curve at the top. • #7 Using the hem strips, fold them in half lengthwise, WST, and press. Tuck in the sides, and press. Pin onto bottom edge of Gigi, matching raw edges RST, stitch, press downward. • #5 Bind the neckline as done for the Rose (see Rose #8) • #6 Hem the sleeve cuffs. And stitch. Press. • #7 Pin the ruffled strip onto the bodice ending 1/2” or 125mm above the hem strip seam. Pin the ruffle RST onto the top following the upside down U. Stitch.

Orella } Slip S-060605

Using a few tweaks and cute details, we created 2 reworked versions of our infamous Briare (pronounced Bry-Arr) Slip. See version A on page 27, with it’s fun new waist band which should sit loosely on the body. And we created a less fussy version see here!

Both versions become dramatically romantic in soft washed silk organza. A is poetic and sweet while I think version B has some edge to it and dramatic if made in black, or a light fabric with contrast stitching. Oohhh...

SEWING DART XS

M L

2X 3X

Briare Slip

Note: See Cutting Instructions for SKIRT PANELS AND RUFFLE STRIPS

Place on Fold

B Briare Slip

Briare Slip

TG-A6029 BACK BODICE CUT 1

GRAIN LINE

Note: See Cutting Instructions for SKIRT PANELS AND RUFFLE STRIPS

GRAIN LINE

Note: See Cutting Instructions for SKIRT PANELS AND RUFFLE STRIPS

Place on Fold

FA B R I C Version A

XS, S M : 4-7/8Y / 4.40M L,XL,2X,3X: 5Y / 4.60M Version B

3-1/2Y / 3.25M 3-1/2Y / 3.25M 3-1/3Y / 3.35M 3-1/3Y / 3.35M 3-3/4Y / 3.45M 3-3/4Y / 3.45M 3-3/4Y / 3.45M

TG-A6029 FRONT BODICE CUT 1

GRAIN LINE

TG-A6029 FRONT BODICE CUT 1

XS S M L XL 2X 3X

Note: See Cutting Instructions for SKIRT PANELS AND RUFFLE STRIPS

XS-3X

#1 For both versions, make the darts on the front bodice. See Briare instructions. #2 Using the WAIST bands you precut, place them onto a flat surface, centered to the front/back bodice. Draw a line extending from the bodice onto the waist band as shown in fig#2. Trim off the sides. VERSION A #3 Stitch a gathering line using a wide stitch along the bottom edges of both front and back bodices. Slightly draw the gathering line so the fabric slightly gathers evenly B across the edge. This is to just give it a little shape. #4 RST stitch the waist band onto the bodice pieces. Press. #5 Place the front and backs together, RST and stitch shoulders and sides. You may have to trim off a little more on the waist bands. (If using a translucent fabric, use a French Seam technique. #6 Ruffle/gather or pleat the top edge of all three skirt panels, to approximately 25” or 65cm across. You may have to adjust this when placing it onto the bodice. Stitch all three skirt panels together to form the skirt. #7-8 Pin three 1-2/3” or 4cm PLEATS going upward or vertically along the waistband. Stitch to secure the pleats in vertical lines as shown, approximately 4” or 10 cm apart. #9 Pin the skirt RST onto the bodice, adjust the gathers/pleats across the top edge to have the skirt fit. Stitch. #10-11 The ruffled edge for the skirt (see the Briare slip instructions to prepare.) And then stitch onto the skirt edge. #12 Like you did the pleats for the waistband, make 6 pleats going upward on the skirt above the ruffle. Stitch a vertical line to secure as shown. Repeat this about 10-12” (25-30cm) apart along the skirt bottom. Finish the armholes and neckline as you prefer, see Briare Inst. VERSION B #13 RST add the precut-cut waistbands (see step #2) to the bodice panels. #14 Place the skirt panel fabric on a flat surface cross grain and centered on the bodice/waistband panel. Extend the lines of the sides downward onto the fabric and draw that line. DART XS

CUTTING Use bodice pieces from the briare slip TG-A6029 Pieces: Bodice - Back and Front Not Included: A) Skirt Panels x 3 (20” or 50cmx WOF) + 6 strips 3” or 8cm x WOF + two strips WOF 10” or 25cm deep. B) Skirt panels, as instructed + two strips WOF 10” or 25cm deep. Review the cutting layouts: Both versions cut the Front and Back Bodice along the fold as shown. Cut the two waist strips 10” / 25cm deep x wof on the fold. A) Cut the three skirt panels plus the 6 ruffle strips as shown. B) For the skirt panels, cut a length 50” or 127cm, then see #14.

Continued on P. 31

LOTUS REPLAY

LOTUS shirt TG-A7009

2” XS

S M

XL 2X

8”

Continued from Page 14

WAISTLINE

POCKET PLACEMENT

LOTUS shirt TG-A7009

17”

Dart

1/2”

LOTUS shirt TG-A7009

BACK CUT 1

shorten the pattern, If you wish to the length, lines and adjust cut between these together then tape back

THE FOLD PLACE ON

LOTUS PATTERN PREPARATION 1. BACK PANEL: Lengthen the bottom line outward 3” / 8cm, then draw straight line to the neckline point. 2. Mark a point 17” from the neck down the diagonal line as shown. Also draw a diagonal line from the neckline to the 17” line, and 1/2” into the garment as shown. 3. Do not cut out the BACK LOWER PANEL 4. FRONT PANEL: Measure 11” DOWNWARD from the front “V”. Draw a diagonal line at 45º angle into the garment at the front “V”. Draw a slightly curved line as shown from the mark 11” below the V to the Shoulder as shown. You will cut this line for the front opening. 5. Measure from the nape of your neck to the waist at front, and mark this onto your FRONT pattern piece. And note the front waist dart. Draw a line from the top point downward to 3” below the waist-line, and 1/2” apart from the dart-line. 6. Note the Shorten/Lengthen lines to adjust for the length you prefer. The finished length as shown is 38” in length. 7. Do Not Cut the two Front Lower Panels as for the original Lotus. 8. Use the same sleeve pattern and do not cut out the keyhole detail at the wrist. 9. Use the pocket pieces if you wish.

Dart

If you wish to shorten the pattern, cut between these lines and adjust the length, then tape back together

2X XL L M S

PLACE ON THE FOLD PLACE ON THE FOLD

XL 2X

index

CUTTING INSTRUCTIONS • Fold the fabric lengthwise, right sides facing outward. • Lay the front panel onto the fabric (see layout illustration on pattern page), and the back panel with it’s extended back onto the fold of the fabric. You can cut the sleeves out cross grain of the fabric as shown. • Also cut 2 strips of fabric 2” wide x 36” (5cm x 90cm) • Again, do not cut the bottom panels or collar piece from the original pattern, and check the length before cutting.

S M L XL 2X

SEWING INSTRUCTIONS #1 -2 We are going to make the pleats following the Lotus pattern markings, but we are going to do them a little differently. #3-4 Pin the pleats(on the right side of the fabric) in place, then beginning at the top, create a ‘dart’ and stitch downward to the bottom mark (leaving the bottom opening and not ending in a point. #5 Press dart open, and #6 Pin the dart to one side, then 2” downward pin it to the opposite side making a sort of braid. Using a winding stitch-line as shown in #7 stitch to secure the dart side to side as shown. #8 Repeat with the back pleat/dart. #9-10 Add pockets if you wish. RST pin pockets in place, on the back panel and front panels as shown. Stitch. Press. #11 RST place the back and front panels together matching at the shoulders, stitch. #12 Add the sleeves, RST center shoulder points and pin sleeves into armholes. Stitch.

#13 Match sides and sleeves, pin together RST, and stitch side seams, pivoting around the pockets. Hen the front open edge using a 1/4” rolled hem. Hem the bottom edge and sleeves. #14 Make the ties, by folding in long sides, press, then fold in half again #15, stitch. #16 Cut the ties into four equal lengths, about 30” or 80cm. Attach one to the inside right seam above the pocket. #17 Add the second to waist length on the left side, along the front edge. # 18 Add one to the right side. We knotted one end and then attached as a decorative element. Add the last to the center back . When you tie your new Lotus, tie the inside left to the outside right, and then the left side front to the back tie. Enjoy.

resources NATURAL • Vintage Buttons ETSY SHOPS Agnes Vintage Buttons https://www.etsy.com/shop/AgnesVintageButtons

Sewing Patterns www.sewtinagivens.com Fabric Manufacturers Sophia Washed Lawn: Robert Kaufman Fabrics Model Jersey: Robert Kaufman Fabrics Linen: fabrics-store.com P24 Lace Appliques & Trims for Necklace Projects: ETSY

54th Street Vintage https://www.etsy.com/shop/54thStreetVintage Saltwater Notion https://www.etsy.com/shop/SaltwaterNotions Note: this shop also has beautiful little packaged kits of color coordinated vintage lace and trims. Very Special.

Vintage Necessities https://www.etsy.com/shop/VintageNecessities Mighty Buttons https://www.etsy.com/shop/MightyButtons P30 Lotus Replay Dusty Pink Voile by Robery Kaufman Fabrics (Sophia washed voile) Elena Dawson Profile: Visit Dover Street Market for a fun peek at unique and elusive designers found no where else. https://london.doverstreetmarket.com/

Sew Much Lace Designs https://www.etsy.com/shop/SewMuchLaceDesigns

PATTERNS used or featured in this issue: Lotus Briare Priscilla Lainey Sugar

Loritiques 54 https://www.etsy.com/shop/loritiques54 Note: Lovely hand dyed lace applique pieces.

FREE PATTERNS: 4 Angelique S-060601 • Dani S-060602 • Rose S-060603 • Gigi S-060604

Sweet Inspirations -- Creations straight from the heart. https://www.etsy.com/shop/sweetinspirations Note: One of Tina’s personal favorite stores. Unbelievable

pieces to ‘dye’ for. And more. An Etsy store since 2009. 5 Stars.

WHITE OWL JEWELRY https://white-owl-jewelry.myshopify.com/collections/all

FREE PROJECTS 2 Lace Appliqué Necklace P.14,25 Bauble Fabric Necklace P.24,25

GLOSSARY WOF

Width of the Fabric

Seam Allowance (all patterns include 5/8” seam

allowance unless otherwise stated. RST

Right Sides Together (Fabric right sides)

WST

Wrong Sides Together

Rolled Hem

Fold fabric over 1/4”, press, fold again

1/4” press and stitch down. French Seam

Stitch WST, then turn wrong side out,

RST and stitch same seama again, encasing the raw seam allowance. P25 Beaded Lip Cording https://www.decoratingstudio.com/ Trim/beaded_and_pearl_cording_main.html

Continued from Page 29 ORELLA • Cut the sides for the skirt panels as shown. Cut across the top, and cut the length to 20”. • #16 Place the front and back panels together, RST match shoulders and sides. Stitch. At this time hem your dress, and bind or hem the neckline and armholes (see Briare instructions). #17 Pleat the waist band (see #7).

SYCHIL t i n a g i v e n s

ISSUE 06 2020

SYCHIL.COM

EXPRESS YOUR INDIVIDUALITY THROUGH STYLE • PERSPECTIVE • CRAFT • LIFE