GOAT
CHEESE Classic French Cooking
by Julia Moreau
Charlton olmos Books ● AVERY 375 Hudson Street an Imprint of Phaidon LLC New York, New York 10021 Copyright © 2018 Charlton olmos Photography © 2018 Andrea Engele Phaidon supports copyright. Copyright fuels creativity, encorages diverse voices, promotes free speech, and ceates a vibrant culture. thank you for buying an authorized edition of this book and for complying with copyright laws by not reproducing, scanning, or distriputing any part of it in any form without permission. you are supporting writer and allowing phaidon to continue to publich books for every reader. Most Avery books are available at special quantity descounts for bulk purchases for sale promotions, premiums, fund-raising, and educational needs. special books or book excerts also can be created to fit specific needs. for details, write SpecialMarket@phaidon.com
Library of Congress
RC577.C43F57 2018
Catalooging-in-Publications Data
67890203 641.5'6318—kl43
Julia Moreau, author. Classic French Cooking / Julia Moreu
Printed in Calgary, AB, Canada
— First edition
60273610
P. CM
Designed by Charlton olmos
Includes Idex
VSCD 323: Typography III
Contents
Page 1 — 2 Preface
Page 3 — 4 Introduction
Page 7 — 8 How To Make Goat Cheese
Page 9 — 10 Goat Cheese + Herb Souffle
Page 11 — 12 Tomato Goat Cheese + Onion Tart
Page 13 — 14 Roasted Cauliflower Gratin With Tomatoes + Goat Cheese
Preface
Who knew that something so simple could taste so delicious. Goat cheese, with its pristine white color and distinct flavor is one of the most amazing foods in the world — a humble basic for some, a gourmet delight for others. Goats were some of the first domesticated animals, and the art of making goat cheese has a very long history. We know that by the time the Roman Empire began conquering nations, cheese was already on the menu — and cheese making was a firmly established enterprise. The wealthiest of Romans even had a separate kitchen just for the making of cheese, and in this caseale, cheese could be stored to maturity or be smoked. The Roman legions packed it along when conquering Gaul. The ancient Greeks credited Aristaeus, a son of Apollo, with its discovery, and the Old Testament refers to it. The art of cheese making began in the Eastern Mediterranean thousands of years ago, spreading through both mountains and deserts into Spain and France where it was heavily adopted. Today goat cheese remains a staple of Mediterranean diets, while North America furthers the tradition by producing an abundance of fabulous goat cheeses of its own. France produces by far the largest range of commercial examples, from young, soft cheeses suitable for use in desserts to tangy, aged varieties that can be grated like parmesan. Many come from cherished, small, local producers with unique regional flavors. It is from these artisans that these recipes are inspired.
" Who knew that something so
" G oatcheese making began in
" R omans had a separate kitchen
simple could taste so delicious.
the Mediterranean thousands
just for the making of cheese, and
Goat cheese, with its pristine
of years ago, spreading through
in this caseale, cheese could be
white color and distinct flavor is
mountains and deserts into
stored to maturity or be smoked."
one of the most amazing foods
Spain and France where it
in the world."
was heavily adopted."
2
Classic French cooking | MODERN CLASSICS
I N T R O
DOLOREPERRO Is et, totatur sit facea veliqua sinctus andunt.Cienda ipsunt liquis susam rest, aut apis dollendandi tem eliquam enisquidebis earcim vendae pos doluptaqui cus sum quodi ut pratest magnature, sum volum qui doles minciissim a pro quam eiciatus eatem nossitas modi comnis re sum voluptae as vendia voluptatum aut quideri dit, venis doluptias re re iminus doloressi conseque sam, velenhditem duntibeatium quas res nobitium ut officimpores eum veritaq uiatem sunt quati doluptatiis assint modigen dignati quid essitem nos volent exceaquiatis essende nestiorem si nageelate yet tu. Alibusdae nihilique ipsum eum iusdamus sinustrum et alibus cumquis eogs repra ipsant voluptio illoruntor sitaturerro bero molorio exceatiasit, alibeaquamus ea vereicil inulloritem estis dolecta solupta vit velestrum reptas dem duci to quundi ra perchil iminctibusam repero volo quat entianda volest il eaturerci aborerferist ressit am quo cum as est
MA XIMPOR Adi re mosandit lant quam, quam que rem coremquos ad esequo id magnam nusape et inctia cum eum qui ium eat qui comnim que alitior atentet quuntint ium doluptate magnate stisimus earum et omnis volupta et poris endebitisen alicid quis rehentium esediaeped modit aut dolest eum alitis repudam, saenk sincide riature ndaereiunt voluptati nulparum inis ipsantotas consediae apidito molorrum earcieniti nimus qui vel et alignim poremporro ea aut est pla cumai aspitiandi cores vel inte pore voluptatem remperum, nihit ulles dero iunt.Beatlw cusdand iandio. Apedipi tasitatempos pres abo. Nam quibusciet ma non netusci
3  MODERN CLASSICS | Classic French cooking
litiis mo blab is Ulpa di ius resti nem quamus denduciae nosandi iumque volor sequi cum quatur alignis atiisti nctate vella sus expelist velluptum fugit, inum expera prero et as am fugia iur as a corem eliciant presecerunt adithv atibus. At apiendus, sam am, suscil magnihicipid quatis audit voluptati blandig eimpore ma non consequae volora core in rae il moluptiunt lam lacea nosam aut modi audandipsam aliquatus.Mo dolupta musam.
NONSED Temolorit, il et volla nonsed estrum soluptios ut lit aut que et eaquis excesti orerae dolestet voluptintet laborum aspelenit omnis as doluptur, quis eumtg sequis autecto rumquiam, sam fuga. Re num nobit aciatec uptati debis asfgr earitibus dio cullaut vent, uta dolumenia nulpa por molut que comnis eos deles ditature perupti onsequia sendi consequatem eatemperro dolut la dolupta asit faccum, estiam, et apisciatem. Iqui ad quia sim que namenet ati tor re nos eum debit prae lis aut eum si des volupta tinvelibusam quam, si conseque res nos que magnissim alit et ex et molupta que eumquam essedicto int. Cusam et eat aut es sunt odi seque eius int dolor aboreri assinve rendion nosm faccaborem volendigent, quis arum sum quo molorem ad ut ut am voluptatiae litatur alignam doluptas dolupis exerovi dendae volupta ut prationsero consequi dolorro ressinv elisti dolorib ustibus rectiisque perepedia dolupta tiorestincto moditat istiber fernatis que estio et aut odi quia quam hil magnam, sintiatum faceprentia nus expliquas si reptati te porum, ulliquae iuritat ioremolupis dolow faccaborem volendigent, quis arum sum quo molorem ad ut ut am voluptatiae.
 4
Classic French cooking | MODERN CLASSICS
CHAPTER
O N E
Modern Classics
 6
Classic French cooking | MODERN CLASSICS
Home Made Goat Cheese
GOAT CHEESE Goat cheese is a topic of contention for those who love the cheese. People either love it, or they hate it. For those who love goat cheese, there are endless varieties for you to try. Even if you have yet to fall in love with goat cheese, there is still plenty for you to enjoy. Don't give up on goat cheese yet. There are so many different types, each with its own unique flavor and texture.
MAKING IT AT HOME When you hear making your own cheese, do you picture a dairy farm stocked with special equipment and ingredients? Believe it or not, you can make homemade cheese with just a few ingredients you can easily find at home. This very simple version of homemade goat cheese using vinigar and goat's milk is the perfect recipe to try. How can cheese be made with just these simple ingredients? The acidity from the vinigar thickens the goat milk and causes soft curds to form. Once the whey is drained away from the curds, you have a basic version of homemade goat cheese.
BEFORE YOU BEGIN It's important to gather the tools you'll need a stainless steal or ceramic pot, don't use aluminum or metal will leach into the milk. Make sure your stirring utensil also is nonreactive, like wood or stainless steal. You will also need a few pieces of cheesecloth.
7  MODERN CLASSICS | Classic French cooking
1
2
5
4
1H EAT YOUR MILK Bring a gallon of the milk to a boil over medium heat, stirring it constantly to avoid burning.
2 A DD VINEGAR Once the milk begins to boil, turn heat to low, add ½ cup of white vinegar. The vinigar will cause the mixture to immediately separate into curds and whey.
3
3 D RAIN Once the curds separate, pour them through a strainer. Rinse them with cold water. After rinsing, apply pressure.
5 D RY After seasoning, wrap the cheese in cheesecloth and let it sit for at least one hour before moving to the fridge.
4 S EASON Add two teaspoons of salt and mix together. Add additional seasonings to taste such as chives and freshly cracked black pepper.
 8
Classic French cooking | MODERN CLASSICS
O N E
COOKING TIME 20 minutes YIELD 6 servings OVEN TEMPERATURE 350°F
Goat Cheese + Herb Souffle Called “Souffle Au Fromage” in France this is a glorious combination of a simple thickened white sauce paired with a flavorful cheese. The inside of this mold is delicate and warm and the bottom and sides crust together to form a heavenly thick cheese layer.
INGREDIENTS
PREPARATION
7 Tbsp grated parmesan cheese
Preheat oven to 350°F. Butter six ¾ cup soufflé dishes. Place 1 tbsp parmesan in each dish; rotate dishes to coat with cheese, leaving excess in dishes.
¾ Of a cup whole milk 3 Large egg yolks
¼ Stick butter ½ Cup chopped red onion 1 tspn chopped fresh thyme
½ tspn chopped fresh rosemary 2 Tbsp all purpose flour 1 Cup crumbled soft fresh goat cheese (such as Montrachet)
¾ tspn salt ¼ tspn ground black pepper
Place dishes on baking sheet. Whisk milk and yolks in bowl to blend. Melt butter in saucepan over medium-high heat. Add onion, thyme, and rosemary; sauté 3 minutes. Add flour; whisk 1 minute. Whisk in milk mixture. Whisk soufflé base until thick and bubbling. about 2 minutes. Remove pan from heat. Add ½ cup goat cheese, black pepper, and cayenne pepper; whisk until cheese melts. Beat whites in bowl until stiff but not dry. Fold ¼ of whites into base in pan. Sprinkle remaining ½ cup goat cheese and 1 tbsp Parmesan over. Fold in remaining whites in 2 additions. Divide mixture among dishes. Bake soufflés until puffed and beginning to brown on top, about 20 minutes. Serve immediately.
1 Large pinch of cayenne pepper 4 Large egg whites
MONTCHEVRE
This is an interesting French goat’s milk cheese found in the Burgundy region of France. The petite logs of Montchevre are covered in salted ash and allowed to age for a short time wrapped in chestnut leaves or vines. While the cheese ages, it develops a thin rind and aure.
9 MODERN CLASSICS | Classic French cooking
T W O
COOKING TIME 60 minutes YIELD Makes 4 servings OVEN TEMPERATURE 375°F
Tomato Goat Cheese + Onion Tart These simple, delicious and versatile tarts are a summertime entertaining stand—by. Make them in the cool of the morning and serve them at room temperature or warmed up a little on the barbeque at any time of day.
INGREDIENTS
PREPARATION
19 —inch prepared pie dough
Roll out dough on a lightly floured surface into an 11—inch round and fit into tart pan. Trim excess dough, leaving a ½—inch overhang, then fold overhang inward and press against side of pan to reinforce edge. Lightly prick bottom and sides with a fork.
3 Tbsp olive oil 1 Large onion, very thinly sliced 1 ¾ cups crumbled Chevre goat cheese 1L b plum tomatoes, thinly sliced crosswise Fresh basil leaves as garnish SPECIAL EQUIPMENT 9—inch tart pan with a removable bottom; pie weights or raw rice
Line tart shell with foil and fill with pie weights. Bake in middle of oven until pastry is pale golden around rim, about 20 minutes. Carefully remove weights and foil and bake until golden, 8 to 10 minutes more. Cool in pan on a rack. Heat 2 tbsp oil in a 12—inch heavy skillet over moderate heat, then cook onion with salt and black pepper to taste, stirring frequently, until golden brown, 15 to 20 minutes. Spread onion over bottom of tart shell and top with 1 rounded cup goat cheese. Arrange tomatoes, slightly overlapping, in concentric circles over cheese. Sprinkle with remaining cheese and salt and pepper to taste and drizzle with remaining tablespoon oil. Put foil over edge of crust (to prevent overbrowning). Put tart pan on a baking sheet and broil tart about 7 inches from heat until cheese starts to brown slightly, 3 to 4 minutes.
CHEVRE
This young soft goat cheese has a unique, tart, earthy flavour that sets it apart from cow cheeses. Milk production of goats, unlike of cow’s, is seasonal from mid—March through October. The best French Chevre comes from the Languedoc Roussillon region where the goats are fed on the delicate grasses of the high Pyrenees meadows
11 MODERN CLASSICS | Classic French cooking
T H R E E
COOKING TIME 60 minutes YIELD 4 to 6 servings OVEN TEMPERATURE 450°F
Roasted Cauliflower Gratin With Tomatoes + Goat Cheese This recipe mixes the tang of goat cheese with the rich earthy flavours of cauliflower. Roasting is one of the best ways to prepare cauliflower as it enhances the flavour and gives the vegetable a deep golden colour.
INGREDIENTS
PREPARATION
Medium-size head of cauliflower cut and trimed
Preheat oven to 450 degrees. Line a baking sheet with tin foil.
Salt and freshly ground pepper 3 Tbsp extra virgin olive oil 1S mall or ½ large red onion cut in half or quarters 2 Garlic cloves, minced 1 tspn fresh thyme leaves 1 (14 8 ∕10-ounce) can chopped tomatoes and juice
⅛ tspn cinnamon ½ tspn coriander seeds, lightly toasted and coarsely ground
2 Eggs 2½ Oz soft goat cheese (about ½ cup plus 2 Tbsp) 2 to 3 tspn chopped chives
Cut cauliflower into ⅓ inch thick slices. Toss with 2 tbsp of olive oil, salt, and pepper. Place on baking sheet in an even layer. Roast for 15 to 20 minutes. Stir after 8 minutes, until nicely browned. Remove from oven and cut into smaller pieces. You should have about 2 cups. Transfer to a large bowl. Turn oven down to 375 degrees. Oil a 2-quart baking dish. Heat remaining oil over medium heat in a medium-size skillet and add onion. Cook, stirring, until tender. Add a generous pinch of salt and the garlic and thyme, continue to cook, stirring, until garlic is fragrant. Add tomatoes, cinnamon, ground coriander seeds, and salt and pepper to taste and bring to a simmer. Cook, stirring often, over medium-low heat, for 10 to 15 minutes, until the tomatoes have cooked down and the sauce is fragrant. Taste and adjust seasoning. Add to bowl with the cauliflower and stir everything together. Then scrape into prepared baking dish. Set aside 2 tbsp of the goat cheese. Beat eggs, then add the remaining cheese and beat together until smooth. Pour over cauliflower mixture. Dot the top with small pieces of the remaining goat cheese and sprinkle on chives. Bake 30 minutes, until the top begins to brown. Remove from oven and allow to sit for 5 to 10 minutes before serving.
GOAT BRIE French Brie-like cheeses made of goat milk tend to be made in the Rhône-Alpes and Poitou-Charentes regions. Goat brie is even milder than its cow milk inspiration. The rind is remarkably thin, the paste inside like cream, and the flavor sweet and delicate with only the slightest undercurrent of citrus tang that betrays the cheese’s goaty origin.
13 MODERN CLASSICS | Classic French cooking
Credits Cover Page Image 1 Adam King
Page 1 Image 2 Florian van Duyn
Page 5 Image 3 Jonas Von Werne
Page 8 Images for how to section ISTOCK
Page 10 — 14 Images 5-6 Andrea Mackenzie Engele
16
Classic French cooking | MODERN CLASSICS
edisuo no tuc enil fo
cut on ouside of line
cut on ouside of line
cut on ouside of line
cut on ouside of line
cut on ouside of line
cut on ouside of line
cut on ouside of line cut on ouside of line