DoorstepTLMwinter12 by tlm magazine

on your doorstep n south devon

The moor the merrier From its English Riviera resorts and historic ports to the wild beauty of Dartmoor, South Devon has something to captivate everyone – Uncle Tom Cobley and all. Julie Thompson managed to keep her family on-side after a footballing diversion on one of many visits

should have known it was a mistake, as a footballloving twenty-something, to take my sport-hating mum away in June in a World Cup year. And not just any World Cup year; it was 1986, when England had been knocked out by the “hand of God” goal and Argentina had made it to the final. We checked in to a delightful bed and breakfast in Totnes and I was trying to reach a compromise; enjoy a good dinner in one of the riverside restaurants in the heart of the town, and then feign tiredness to be able to watch the second half of the final on the portable TV in our room. I have to say it worked. I did make up for it for the rest of our stay, too. We enjoyed exploring the ancient market town – reputed to have more listed buildings per head of the population than anywhere else in Britain. We took a boat trip on the River Dart and indulged in a shared passion – shopping – buying some Dartington crystal from the Shops at Dartington (www.dartington.org/shops), part of the nearby Cider Press Centre.

n Kite flying on Hay Tor, Dartmoor Britainonview/Martin Brent

Winter 2011/2012

tlm n the travel & leisure magazine www.tlm-magazine.co.uk

on your doorstep n south devon

Britainonview/Daniel Bosworth

n Agatha Christie’s fictional detective, Hercule Poirot, in her home town of Torquay

village of Shaldon has held its parade of fancy dress floats and multi-coloured boats on the Teign estuary. Torbay Steam Fair (www.torbaysteamfair.com): August 3-5, 2012. See working steam engines, and vintage and classic cars. South Devon crab festival: July 30August 5, 2012. This week-long event takes place throughout South Devon in the first week of August, with events include crabbing competitions, crab cooking demonstrations and special crab menus at a range of local restaurants. The Port of Dartmouth Royal Regatta (www.dartmouthregatta.co.uk): August 30-September 1, 2012. First held on the River Dart in 1822, becoming the Port of Dartmouth Royal Regatta in 1856 and is now the second largest regatta after Cowes Week. The Agatha Christie Festival (www.torbay.gov.uk): September 9-16, 2012. A celebration of the life and works of the most published novelist of all time, who was born in Torquay in the late 19th century.

You can WIN a two-night stay in Exeter plus weekend festival passes to the Exeter Festival of South West Food & Drink; see our competition on page 39.

n Dartmouth Castle

n Torquay Harbour Britainonview

Totnes sits in the heart of South Devon between Dartmoor National Park and the coastal towns of Brixham, Paignton and Torquay, known better as the English Riviera resorts. Torquay typifies the traditional British seaside resort, although its sandy beaches, fine dining, water sports and the spectacular natural cave are a world away from the town’s Fawlty Towers portrayal. Neighbouring Brixham is one of the busiest fishing ports in the UK; over 100 fishing boats land and sell their catch at the local fish market on the quayside. Brixham is also home to a full-size replica of Sir Francis Drake’s iconic flagship, the Golden Hind (www.goldenhind.co.uk), on which you can experience life as a sailor in

n Local delicacies

days gone by. With the colourful houses lining the waterfront, it is one of the prettiest harbours on the South Devon coast.

rockpooling Make sure you take the 30-minute walk to Berry Head National Nature Reserve, one of the gateways to the English Riviera Global Geopark (www.englishrivierageopark.org.uk), an internationally-acclaimed heritage site with recently-restored Napoleonic War fortifications. Combined with Paignton’s long, sandy beaches, bustling pier and its zoo, one of Britain’s best, as well as the Dartmouth Steam Railway and Riverboat Company (www.dartmouthrailriver.co.uk) offering trips from the town, the English Riviera is an ideal, family-friendly holiday destination. Brixham lies within the Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty which also takes in Dartmouth to the east, Salcombe to the south and Wembury on the eastern edge of the region. Wembury’s safe and popular beach, administered by the National Trust, which also runs the nearby Old Mill (www.nationaltrust.org.uk), is perfect for rockpooling and its shallow waters are idyllic for children. One of the first holidays with my eldest son, now 18, was staying in farm accommodation at Wembury with good friends and their two young daughters. We could walk to the beach each day, fishing nets in tow, and happily let the children loose to find us an array of sea urchins and crabs. It was one of the joys of our stay – unlike the cows’ early morning wake-up calls each day. Salcombe, located in the most southerly part

of Devon, is home to picturesque villages and stunning beaches and its waterside location makes this vibrant town worth a stop on any South Devon itinerary. Dartmouth is one of the prettiest towns in South Devon and has a strong maritime heritage – it was the embarkation point for the first Crusaders’ sailing ships in 1147, bound for the Holy Land, and it has a long association with the Royal Navy – making it a perfect spot if you’re a water sports enthusiast. And to quench your thirst after a long hard day on the water, take a stroll through the delightful cobbled streets to find that perfect pint. In May 2010, a fire tragically destroyed some of Dartmouth’s oldest buildings; however the people of the town rallied round and these historic buildings are now thankfully being restored to their former glory.

n A local pint and pasty

unspoilt The city of Plymouth satisfies even the most ardent townie while still capturing the spirit of South Devon. From its vibrant shopping centre to the historic Barbican, this maritime city’s old port area, with its cobbled streets, Elizabethan warehouses, cafes and restaurants, is a great place to idle away a day or two. Dartmoor National Park’s 368 square miles of unspoilt beauty are the perfect antithesis to the beaches and busy coastal towns. With the largest concentration of Bronze Age remains in the UK, Dartmoor is ideal for lovers of ancient history. But there is more to this enthralling park than ancient barrows and spectacular scenery. Plenty of outdoor activities are on offer to satisfy even the most hardcore adventure fanatic. There are countless areas for walkers and cyclists to discover but with rivers, dramatic tors and rolling countryside,

Exeter Festival of South West Food & Drink

l Exeter Festival of South West Food & Drink (www.exeterfoodanddrinkfestival.co.uk): April 13-15, 2012. The South West’s ultimate foodie event includes masterclasses by top celebrity chefs in a celebration of the region’s best food and drink. l Brixham Pirate festival (www.brixhampiratefestival.co.uk): May 5-6, 2012. Now in its third year, events include live music, games, reenactments and a Pirate Party Night. l Geopark Festival (www.englishrivierageopark.org.uk): June 2-10, 2012. Celebrate the geological splendours of the region, including events at the Seashore Centre, Kents Cavern and Torquay Museum. l Dawlish Air Show (www.dawlishairshow.co.uk): June 8, 2012. Dawlish’s dramatic coastline is the perfect setting for a magnificent air display that includes the Red Arrows and Royal Navy helicopter demonstrations. l Kingsbridge Fair Week (www.kingsbridgefairweek.co.uk): July 21-28, 2012. This week-long family entertainment event for all ages dates back to 1461, when a royal charter was given to allow the town to have an annual fair. l Shaldon Water Carnival (www.shaldon-village.co.uk/water_carnival.html): August 4, 2012. For over 50 years, the

Britainonview

10 south devon events

Exeter Festival of South West Food & Drink

48 tlm n the travel & leisure magazine

www.tlm-magazine.co.uk

Winter 2011/12

tlm n the travel & leisure magazine www.tlm-magazine.co.uk

on your doorstep n south devon

south devon facts n Boats on the river, Salcombe

First Great Western (www.firstgreatwestern.co.uk) provides services from London to Plymouth, Exeter and Totnes, among others. By car, the M5 links up with other major motorways with the A379 coast road leading to Dawlish, while the A380 is signposted to Teignmouth, Newton Abbot and Torquay and the A38 leads to Totnes and destinations south of Torbay.

getting around

Britainonview

If you are relying on public transport, n The Scorhill Stone Stagecoach Devon Circle, Dartmoor (www.stagecoachbus.com) and First Devon and Cornwall (www.firstgroup.com/ukbus/devon_cornwall) operate services throughout the region and offer a range of rover tickets for multiple journeys. First Great Western (www.firstgreatwestern.co.uk) also offer a number of rover tickets.

south devon beaches

Visit Devon

n Exmouth

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accommodation A wide range of places to stay, including camp sites, pubs and hotels are available throughout South Devon but, for longer stays, self-catering cottages and houses are ideal. Blue Chip Holidays (www.bluechipholidays.co.uk) has a wide range of cottages and houses, including a former working mill, throughout the region while Coast and Country Cottages (www.coastandcountry.co.uk) has over 425 luxury self-catering holiday properties exclusively in Salcombe, Dartmouth and the surrounding coast and countryside. Traine Farm in Wembury (www.cottageguide.co.uk/traine-cottages) has a number of cottages available for rent.

more information Visit Devon

There are miles of award-winning beaches in the region. Some of the best include: l Blackpool Sands (www.blackpoolsands.co.uk): This Blue Flag beach – highlighted in tlm’s recent 10 of the best – has a distinct Mediterranean feel and is one of the most popular family beaches. l Bigbury on Sea (www.lovingthebeach.co.uk): In an Area of Outstanding Beauty, Bigbury’s most famous landmark is Burgh Island, overlooking the beach itself. The island is accessible at low tide by a causeway linking it to the beach, or you can take a ride on the unique “sea tractor” when the tide is in. l Wembury Beach (www.nationaltrust.org.uk): Wembury’s clear and shallow waters have won an award from the Marine Conservation Society and its rockpools make this a family favourite. l Dawlish Warren (www.dawlishwarren.com): Voted by The Times as one of the “top 10 places by the sea” and nine-time Blue Flag award winner, this 1.5-mile stretch of beach is also one of the most important areas for wildfowl and wading birds in the country. l Teignmouth (www.teignbridge.gov.uk): This long, sandy, traditional family beach, which is overlooked by an impressive Victorian pier, won the Quality Coast Award in 2011.

Britain on View

getting there

n Preston Sands, Paignton

Visit South Devon: www.visitsouthdevon.co.uk South Devon Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty: www.southdevonaonb.org.uk The English Riviera: www.englishriviera.co.uk

climbing and canoeing are especially popular; you could also take part in the annual Ten Tors race if you were so inclined. More leisurely pastimes include watching the grazing ponies on the village green of picturesque Widecombein-the-Moor, most famous for its fair and Uncle Tom Cobley and all (the character from the traditional folk song, Widecombe Fair, who may or may not be fictional), or just taking in the breathtaking landscape of rolling valleys, bogs and wetlands of the moors. Whether it’s glorious beaches, fascinating maritime history, dramatic landscapes, or a combination of them all you are looking for, South Devon fits the bill. Just make sure you check your dates for important sporting events before you travel, or you could score an own goal.

“Dartmoor National Park…is the perfect antithesis to the beaches and busy coastal towns.” Winter 2011/12