How to Install Porch Screens forBreezy OutdoorLiving
What You'll Need Equipment / Tools: Straight edge •Drill •Chop Saw
•Rubber Mallet
•Utility Knife
•Screen Tight Roller Knife
Materials: Screen Tight •Mini Track Screw Clips •Screen Tight Mini Track Channel •Fiberglass Screen •Screen Tight Mini Track Spline
Instructions:
Install screen system measure and mark placement with pencil install screen system drill screw into window ledge install screen system adjustment of screw clip
Install Screws:
Using a straightedge, draw a line through the center of the opening to be screened. Measure and mark the placement for the screw clips, about 8-10 inches apart along the line, starting and ending 2 inches from each corner. Drill a pilot hole at each mark. Insert a screw clip into each hole; do not overtighten. Use a small channel piece (we used the Screen Tight track system) to properly adjust the height of each screw clip so that the channel slides easily over the screw without being too loose. Repeat on all four sides of your window. Install screen system tap channel onto screw clips with rubber mallet
Install Channel Pieces:
Cut channel pieces to fit the top and bottom of the opening using a chop saw. Install the pieces by sliding the end of a channel piece over an end screw, then tap the rest of the channel onto the screw clips with a rubber mallet. After the top and bottom channels are installed, measure, cut, and install the side channels in the same manner. Install screen system trim excess screen with roller knife
Fasten Screen to Tracks:
Cut a piece of fiberglass screen a few inches larger than the opening. Starting at the top of the opening, lay the screen across the top channel track. Using a roller knife, evenly push the spline into the top track channel groove, fastening the screen into the groove as you go. Continue pushing the spline into one side track, then repeat on the opposite side, ensuring that the screen remains straight as you work. Insert the spline into the bottom channel track last. Install screen system complete porch with plants
Trim Porch Screen:
If needed, remove the spline and adjust the screen. Trim excess screen mesh flush along each edge using a utility knife.
How to Clean a Window AC Unit
What You'll Need:
Screwdriver (optional)
Hand vacuum or vacuum with hand attachment
Bucket of warm water
Soap or detergent
Bristle brush
Toothbrush
Can of compressed air
Cleaning rag or cloth
Spray bottle
Hydrogen peroxide (3%)
Step 1: Clean the air filter.
Before cleaning your air conditioner, ensure that it is unplugged from the power source. Next, locate and remove the filter on your AC unit. Some window units feature filters that simply pull out; others might first require the removal of the front cover with a screwdriver. Look at the manufacturer's manual for your model to determine the best method for removing your AC unit's filter.
After removing the filter, use a hand vacuum to extract as much dust and debris as possible. Next, grab a bucket with soapy water and a bristle brush and wash the filter in the sudsy water, gently brushing it as needed until clean. Air-dry the filter completely before re-installing it.
Step 2: Clean air-conditioner coils and fins. Locate the evaporator coils and fins in your unit, which convert hot air into cool air, and clean them using a toothbrush or other soft-bristle brush. Be gentle and handle the coils and fins with care so as not to bend or damage them. Spray the coils and fins with compressed air to remove any remaining dirt and dust.
Step 3: Clean the exterior and grill.
Clean the grill of your air conditioner with a damp cloth or rag. If the grime is substantial, remove the grill according to the manufacturer's instructions and submerge it in warm soapy water, using a brush or rag to clean between the grill's gaps. Dry the grill completely before reinstalling it.
Next, wipe down the top and sides of the window AC unit with a damp cloth. If your AC has a drain and/or drip tray, be sure to clean those as well by emptying them and wiping them clean. Let dry completely before returning to the AC unit.
Step 4: Prevent mildew and reassemble.
Using hydrogen peroxide in a spray bottle, treat the exterior areas of the air conditioner where air flows through to protect against mold and mildew. Allow enough time for all parts to dry completely before putting them back in place. Now, all that's left to do is kick back, relax, and enjoy your clean AC unit as it blows fresh, cool air into your home.
How to Install a Mailbox: Please, Mr. Postman, Is Mine Up to Code?
Step 1: Determine the right size and shape
Mailboxes can’t be any old size; it must fall within the official range. The length should be approximately 18 9/16 to 22 13/16 inches; the width, 6 1/4 to 11 inches; and the height, 6 to 15 inches.In terms of shape, you have some leeway. Dogs, fish, birds, miniature Chris Christie replicas—there are some cray-cray mailboxes out there. So go ahead and have fun; anything to make getting mail a bit more exciting sure can’t hurt.
Step 2: Pick the right mailbox post -Wood, lightweight steel, and aluminum are the correct materials for your mailbox post. Anything harder, such as concrete or thick steel pipe, won’t yield or bend if it’s accidentally struck by a car (or the mail truck). Awooden support should be 4 inches by 4 inches, while steel or aluminum piping must be 2 inches in diameter. Sink your post into the ground at a depth of no more than 2 feet.
Step 3: Figure out the best place to put the mailbox
When you’re ready to pound that post in, mark the distance carefully from your yard to the road’s edge. The mailbox should sit on the post 6 to 8 inches away from the curb (if your street doesn’t have a curb, contact your local post office for placement assistance). The box’s height should be between 41 and 45 inches from its bottom to the road’s surface. Put your home’s address on the box, too. Measure carefully and your mail will arrive on time
Step 4: Make sure the mail slot is the right size—wherever it is No box? No problem! Aslot on your front door will do just fine as long as the opening is 1.5 inches wide and 7 inches long and the bottom of the slot is at least 30 inches from the floor. If your slot is horizontal, the flap must be hinged at the top; vertical slots should have the hinge on the opposite side from the door’s hinges.
Step 5: Maintain your mailbox! “Make sure the mailbox’s door is working well,” Brennan advises. Tighten hinges, remove rust, and repaint (or replace) faded house numbers on the outside. You’ll also need to keep the path to the post clear, so trim plants and shrubs and be sure they don’t interfere with the opening and closing of the box. And once you’ve retrieved your mail, close the box up tight so nothing else can get in and occupy the space.
1. Where can you buy corner cabinets?
2. Who sells triple pane windows?
3. Who is accepting spring bookings?
4. Who can color match your paint?
5. Where can you buy mobile home skirting?
6. Who sells Kubota tractors under 100hp?
1. Deadline Tuesday, April 11th @ 5 p.m.
2.One entry per household per person. 3.MUST ENTER BOTH WEEKS CORRECTLY TO BE ELIGIBLE FOR RANDOM DRAWING.
4. All family members of Thrifty Nickel employees not eligible.
5. All entries must have correct name, address, phone.
6. All entries to be mailed or dropped off at: Thrifty Nickel Contest, 629 E. 21st Street Owensboro, KY., 42303
7. Who has Garden Leisure Spa’s in stock?
8. Who is adding furniture to their inventory ?
9. Who can service your A/C Unit?
10. Whore to go to beat the Spring price increase?
11. Where can you stretch your tax dollars ?
12. Who sells Grasshopper mowers with Powerfold ?
All the answers to the questions are found in the HOME LAWN & GARDEN GUIDE of this weeks issue of the Thrifty Nickel. The winner will be announced in the April 13th issue.
How to Build a Fire Pit—the Hottest New Addition to YourYard
Get the right DIYbuilding materials:
Large stones or cast-concrete curved blocks are the building materials of choice for a backyard DIYfire pit. If you’re going with stones or pavers, always check with a stone supply store to make sure your selection is suitable, as natural stone can crack or break in intense heat.
“The best way to ensure that the stones don’t crack is to insert a steel fire pit liner inside your structure, which will shield your stones from the heat and is available at most home improvement stores,” she says.
Decide between a wood-burning orgas fire pit: For some, nothing beats a crackling wood fire in the backyard. It’s more of a DIYoutdoor fireplace—you’ll find yourself using it sometimes even when you’re not cooking.
Unfortunately, some municipalities don’t allow wood-burning fires due to the smoke. In that case, gas will be your only option—and we must say, there’s something nice about the convenience of a fire pit with the turn of a knob. You can hook up a gas line to a barbecue propane tank, or install a propane line connected to what’s powering your kitchen. Obviously, when you’re dealing with gas, safety is paramount, says Lindsey Conklin, general manager at fire pit manufacturer StarfireDirect. So if you’re nervous or unsure about what to do, hire a professional to install the gas line and you can stick with just building the fire pit as enough of a DIY project.
Choose a shape:You can find DIYbackyard fire pit designs in just about any shape you want, from round to square to octagonal. In general a circular fire pit spreads heat the most evenly. Asquare fire pit may be the easiest to build. (If you’re using a liner, it can serve as a handy building guide; just place it on the ground where you want your fire pit, then place your first layer of stones around it.)Once you’ve placed the first layer of rocks in the desired shape, use a shovel tip to outline the outer perimeter on the ground. Then remove the stones (and liner if you used one) so the area is clear for the next step.
Get digging: Calling it an in-ground pit is somewhat misleading, because you don’t want your fire to be down in the ground. But you will need to dig down and remove a couple of inches of dirt from your pit. After you dig, fill the hole to almost ground level with gravel, lava rock, or sand. The gravel or sand provides drainage so your fire pit doesn’t turn into a pool of water the instant it rains.
Start stacking:
Once your pit is properly dug and layered for drainage, place the first layer of stones along the pit’s perimeter just below ground level, followed by additional layers depending on the height you want your fire pit to be. Use concrete or concrete adhesive to hold each layer together. You can also drystack the stones.
Reach the right height:
The height of your fire pit is largely up to you, although 1 or 2 feet foot tall is generally good, because that’s high enough to keep the ashes in but low enough so people can admire the fire and cook those hot dogs.
Add a floor:
You can add a floor if you want, by laying pavers inside your pit. Use square pavers, and fill in along the edges with triangular pavers. Fill in cracks with paver sand or gravel.
What about a brick orstone fire pit?
Building a pit as we just described for a backyard fire is fairly simple. If your neighbors built a stone fire pit or a beautiful brick fire pit, you may be tempted to try to keep up. Building a brick or stone pit will require building a concrete footing first. You can’t just start stacking bricks on dirt. You’ll need masonry supplies and equipment, including face bricks, fire bricks, mortar, refractory cement, concrete mix, and rebar. It can be a DIYproject, but it’s not as simple as using concrete blocks or large stones.
How to Install an InteriorDoor
Whether you're starting a room from scratch or just want to replace an old or distressed door, installing a door is easy and fast. This project requires only a few tools, and most can be rented if you don't already own them. Just get started with Step 1 below to learn how to install an interior door.
These instructions are for a prehung door, or a door that's already attached to a frame with hinges. If you have a slab door instead and need to hang your door, see this article instead.
Step 1:
Buy your door. Purchase a door to fit the rough opening in the wall.[1] Doors and door openings are generally standard sizes, generally 24-36". The framed-in rough opening for the door is always around 2" wider than the purchased door (not including the jamb around the door). This allows for adjustment when installing the door to achieve plumb "level".
Step 2:
Start getting things straightened out. Start by drawing a plumb line on the wall. Measure 1/2" in from the rough opening on the hinge side of the door. Using a 6' or 4' level draw a level line down the drywall. You can also use a laser level, which may be easier and more accurate (there are many models that can attach to a wall).
Step 3:
Attach the door installation brackets. Attach 6 door installation brackets to the outside of the door jamb, the wood frame to which the door comes pre-attached. Place a bracket behind each of the three hinges. Attach the remaining three brackets on the other side of the jamb. The first bracket should be 8" from the top, the next bracket just above the latch stop, and the final bracket 8" from the bottom of the door.
Step 4: Place the door into the opening on top of blocks or shims. Place 1/2" blocks under the door if a carpet or hardwood is going to be installed or 1/4" blocks if installing laminate. Never place the door directly on an unfinished floor.
Step 5:
Attach the brackets. Using the plumb line on the wall, screw in the top bracket on the hinge side of the door. Then screw in the next 2 brackets using the same reference notch as the first bracket. After the 3 brackets are screwed into the wall using the same reference notch for each, the door is now level. Now check the reveal (gap between door and door jamb) when screwing in each of the final 3 brackets. Start at the top of the door and check the reveal when screwing in the top bracket. Check the reveal when screwing in the final 2 brackets. The door will now be perfectly hung and the blocks under the door can now be removed.
Step 6:
Install the casing around the installed door. The casing, also called the trim, is the strips of wood that hide the joints and some parts of the hinge. Done correctly, the trim will perfectly conceal the door installation brackets. Choose casing that compliments your style and cut it using mitered corners or other styles, depending on your preference.
