How To Paint ARoom
Step #1: Make a Plan
Making all the decisions you need to make before getting started on yourpainting project will save you time, including: Choose yourcolor. Paint colorsamples are essential to selecting a coloryou’ll love. Choose yourfinish. Note: If yourwalls have imperfections, flat ormatte finishes are more forgiving than semi-gloss and gloss finishes. Choose yourproducts. Consult with yourlocal Benjamin Moore retailerto select the right paint products. Gatheryourmaterials. Will you need an extension pole ora laderto reach higherparts of yourspace? Do you have drop cloths, brushes, rollers, painter’s tape and all the painting supplies you need? Look at yourjob holistically before getting started. Prep yourspace. Place a drop cloth down on the floorand to coverany furniture. If you’re painting yourtrim, molding orbaseboards a different colorfrom yourwalls, tape off yourmolding-wall border.
Step #2: Prep the Walls
When prepping a room forpainting, it’s important to prepare yourwalls. Inspect walls forimperfections and repairany cracks orsmall holes. Sand down any repaired areas with 220-grit sandpaperand a sanding sponge. Vacuum up any sanding dust and wipe your walls down again with a damp rag. Allow the walls to dry completely.
Step #3: Clean the Walls
Wipe away any dust from sanding with a damp rag. Thoroughly clean yourwalls with damp rags ora sponge and warm water, starting from the top and working downward. Allow the walls to dry completely.
Step #4: Paint the Ceiling
When it comes to painting a ceiling, using the right product will make this part of yourproject much easier. Waterborne Ceiling Paint has a forgiving ultraflat finish offering superiorhide that covers any DIY mistakes. Tape off the borders of yourceiling. Cut in the edges of yourceiling with a paintbrush. Switch to a rollerto roll an even coat of paint onto the remaining surface area.
Step #5: Paint Trim, Moldings and Baseboards
If you’re painting yourtrim, molding orbaseboards a different colorfrom yourwalls, tape off yourmolding-wall border. If yourtrim, molding orbaseboards have been previously painted, you don’t need to use primer. If not previously painted, apply an even coat of Fresh Start®High-Hiding All Purpose Primer with a paintbrush and let dry completely. Use a paintbrush to cut in yourproject edges and apply an even layerof Regal®Select Interiorpaint to your trim, molding orbaseboards.
Step #6: Paint the Walls
If yourwalls have been previously painted, you don’t need to prime them. If you’re working with unfinished drywall, use a paintbrush to cut in yourwall borders with Fresh Start®High-Hiding All Purpose Primer. Switch to a rollerand roll the primeronto the remaining surface area. If you’ve used primer, allow it to dry completely before you paint your walls. To start painting, cut in the edges of yourwalls with Regal®Select Interiorpaint using a paintbrush. Switch to a rollerand roll yourpaint along the wall to evenly coverthe rest of yourproject area.
Step #7: Let Dry and Apply Second Coat Foryourceiling, trim, molding and walls, allow your first coat of paint to dry completely before applying a second coat. If you’ve taped off yourtrim, remove yourpainter’s tape immediately afterapplying your final coat of paint. Let yourfreshly painted ceiling, trim, molding and walls dry completely before returning the area to everyday use.
Easy Steps to Create Gardens in YourYard forthe First Time
1. Consider What to Plant
Do you want to plant a vegetable garden? An herb garden? A flower garden? Start small until you know what you're getting into.
2. Pick the Best Garden Spot
Almost all vegetables and many types of flowering plants need 6-8 hours of full sun each day. So you need to observe your yard throughout the day to figure out which spots receive full sun versus partial or full shade. Don't worry if your yard is mostly shady: You won't be able to grow tomatoes in shade, but many other plants (such as hostas and outdoor ferns) will do just fine.
3. Clear the Ground
Get rid of weeds and sod in the area you plan to plant. If you want quick results—for example, if it's already spring and you want veggies this summer—cut it out. Slice under the sod with a spade. Cut the sod into sections to make it easier to remove, then put it on your compost pile to decompose.
4. Test and Improve Your Soil
To learn more about your soil, have a soil test done through your county cooperative extension office. They'll lead you through the procedure: How much soil to send from which parts of the garden and the best time to obtain samples. Expect a two-week wait for the findings, which will tell you what your soil lacks and how to amend it. You can also use a DIYkit that may not be as detailed, but will give you an idea of your soil's nutrient levels.
5. Prepare Your Planting Beds
Loosening the soil in new beds before sowing or planting helps roots to grow more easily and access the water and nutrients they need. There are two methods: tilling with a mechanical device such as a rototiller or digging by hand. The first one is a good method when you need to mix in large amounts of amendments. However, it's easy to overdo it, which will end up damaging soil structure. Digging is more practical for preparing small beds.
6. Pick Your Plants
Some people pore over catalogs for months; others head to the garden center and buy what wows them. Either method works as long as you choose plants adapted to your climate, soil, and sunlight. You can even surf the Internet for plants to purchase. Here are a few easy-to-grow plants for beginners:
7. Start Planting
Some plants, such as pansies and kale, tolerate cold, so you can plant them in autumn or late winter. Tomatoes and most annual flowers, on the other hand, prefer warm temperatures, so don't plant them until the danger of frost has passed in your area. Mid spring and mid autumn are good times to plant perennials.
8. Water at the Right Time
Seedlings should never be allowed to dry out, so water daily. Taper off as the plants get larger. Transplants also need frequent watering (every other day or so) until their roots become established. After that, how often you need to water depends on your soil, humidity, and rainfall, though once a week is a good place to start. Clay soil dries out more slowly than sandy soil, so you won't need to water it as often. Sunny, windy conditions dry out soil more quickly than cool, cloudy weather. Still not sure? Feel the soil 3-4 inches below the surface. If it feels dry, it's time to water. Water slowly and deeply, so the water soaks in instead of running off. To minimize evaporation, water in the early moring.
9. Protect Your Garden with Mulch
OVER 100 VANITIES IN STOCK SOLID WOOD, MANY STYLES &
To help keep weeds out and moisture in, cover the soil with a couple of inches of mulch. You won't have to water as often, and by preventing sunlight from hitting the soil, you'll prevent weed seeds from germinating. Choose from a wide variety of mulches, each with its own benefits, including shredded bark, straw, and river rock. If you use organic mulch, such as bark, compost, or cocoa bean shells (which smell good, by the way), it will nourish the soil as it decomposes. For a vegetable garden or bed of annuals, choose a mulch that decomposes in a few months. For perennials, use a longer-lasting mulch such as bark chips.
10. Maintain Your Garden Regularly
As your garden begins to grow, help it reach its full potential by keeping up with garden chores. Water the plants before they wilt. Pull weeds before they go to seed. Get rid of dead, dying, and diseased vegetation. Banish destructive insects (such as tomato hornworms) by picking them off the plant and dropping them into a bucket of sudsy water, hosing them off, or spraying on an insecticidal soap purchased at a garden center. Support tall plants (such as tomatoes) with a trellis, stake, or a tepee. Also, harvest vegetables as soon as they're ready. And remember to stop and smell the...well, whatever it is you're growing.
How to Choose a New Kitchen Faucet
A kitchen faucet replacement doesn't take long. You'll want to have all the necessary parts on hand before you begin. To select a new kitchen faucet, consider a few different factors, including the spout height, spout reach, number of holes in the sink, handle type, and sprayer type. The spout height and reach should take into consideration the size of the sink and any restrictions, like overhead cabinets. Otherwise, you could end up with a new faucet that doesn't fit under the cabinets or isn't long enough to reach the majority of the sink. Similarly, you should look for a new kitchen faucet that's compatible with the number of holes in the sink. Most kitchen faucet kits come with a base plate to cover up any extra holes, but if the sink doesn't have enough holes, you may need to find a compatible product or attempt to drill or cut additional holes through the sink or countertop. The type of handle and sprayer type should also be noted before purchasing a new faucet. You can opt for single-handle or double-handle designs, depending on your preference. Some faucets come with pull-down sprayers that extend down from the end of the faucet, while others come with pull-out sprayers that pull out from a separate position, typically located to the side of the main faucet. Weigh your preferences and consider the space and sink configuration you currently have before deciding on the right kitchen faucet for your home.
What You'll Need:
•Equipment / Tools
•Channellock pliers
•Materials
Instructions: How to Replace a Kitchen Faucet
Step 1: Prepare the Area
•Bucket •Towel •Kitchen faucet kit •Plumber's tape
Start this simple project by opening the cabinets under the sink and clearing out any items so you have space to work. Place a towel on the bottom of the cabinet and position a bucket under the hot and cold water lines to catch any drips. If you have a garbage disposal, turn off or disconnect the power before proceeding.
Step 2: Turn Off Water
With the area prepared, turn off the water to the kitchen sink by turning the valves located on the hot and cold water lines. Closing these valves will cut off water to the sink, but will not turn off the water to any other faucets, showers, or fixtures in the home. Open the faucet to drain some of the water from the and relieve the pressure on the fixture.
Step 3: Disconnect Water Lines
Use a set of Channellock pliers to loosen the nuts on the hot and cold water lines until they are loose enough that you can operate them with your fingers. Detach one hose at a time, ensuring that any excess water is drained into the bucket. If you have a sprayer, take this opportunity to disconnect the water line from the sprayer as well.
Step 4: Remove Old Faucet
Once the water lines are disconnected, use the Channellock pliers to loosen the locking nuts on the base of the faucet. These nuts secure the faucet to the sink. After removing the locking nuts, lift the old faucet out of the sink and place it in the bucket.
Step 5: Prepare New Faucet for Installation
Typically, a faucet kit comes with instructions for installation provided by the manufacturer. In some cases, the manufacturer may suggest adding plumber's tape to the threads to create a better seal, while other products may advise against this. Check the manufacturer's directions for your specific product to determine if plumber's tape is necessary. If you need plumber's tape for your kitchen faucet, wrap the threads of the water line connection two to three times. Before proceeding, consider using a multipurpose cleaner to scrub any dirt, grime, or residue left on the sink from the old faucet.
Step 6: Cover Extra Sink Holes
Depending on the number of sink holes required for the new kitchen faucet, you might find there's an extra, unused sink hole. This additional hole can be covered with trim rings or a deck plate, instead of leaving a hole in the countertop. Alternatively, you can use an extra hole to install a built-in soap dispenser or a sink sprayer.
Step 7: Secure the Faucet
Slide the water line hoses and the new faucet down through the holes in the sink. If you have a single-handle faucet, all of the lines will enter through the same central hole. If you have a twohandled faucet or a faucet and sprayer setup, you may end up threading the hoses through the holes on either side of the central hole. Once the faucet is in place, attach the locking nuts to the base of the faucet. Hand-tighten the locking nuts, then use Channellock pliers to finish tightening up the nuts. Make sure not to overtighten these parts to avoid cracking the nuts.
Step 8: Reconnect Water Lines
Connect the hose for the cold water to the cold water line and connect the hose for the hot water to the hot water line, then use your pliers to tighten the nuts on these connections. If the new kitchen faucet has a sprayer, connect the sprayer hose to the base of the faucet, and use the pliers to tighten up the connection, if necessary.
Step 9: Remove the Aerator
Dirt, dust, and other debris can get trapped in the line, creating flow and pressure problems, so before testing the new faucet, it's recommended to remove the aerator from the faucet outlet and turn on the faucet. This will allow any debris in the line to flow out of the faucet when the water is turned back on.
Step 10: Turn the Water On
Double-check the water line connections to ensure they're snug, then turn on the cold water valve and the hot water valve. If you left the faucet in the open position as indicated, the water will flow into the faucet and force out any trapped air or debris in a brief sputter that should pass within a few seconds. When the water comes out in a smooth flow, you can turn off the faucet and reattach the aerator.
Step 11: Test for Leaks
Check all connections under the sink and at the base of the faucet to make sure the repair was successful and there aren't any leaks. If you're concerned about any connections, use your pliers to tighten the nuts, or consider leaving the bucket and towel under the sink for an hour or two or until you can confirm that there isn't a leak.
How to Plan fora Bathroom Renovation
Here are a few details you absolutely need to nail down before you begin yourbathroom renovation:
Color scheme: Interested in a modern farmhouse look? Or are you looking for a clean, contemporary design to match the rest of your home decor? Find inspiration photos for your vision ahead of time to make sure your new bathroom tiles don’t clash with your choice of paint. New fixtures: Will you replace your shower or tub? Are you installing a new sink? Replacing one or both of these fixtures will add to your project’s timeline and budget. Storage spaces: Where will you keep your towels and toiletries postremodel? If you’re removing a closet to expand the room, make sure you have shelving or cabinets to make up for the lost storage space in your bathroom. Location of utilities: Do you know where the electrical wiring and plumbing pipes are located? Keep these areas marked to avoid damaging these hookups and having to make expensive repairs. Gather Your Tools Beyond what’s already in your home improvement toolbox, there are some helpful tools to have on hand for a bathroom renovation.
Essential Tools and Supplies fora DIYBathroom
Remodel:
•Safety mask •Gloves •Goggles •Caulking gun
•Silicone sealant •Hammer •Tape measure •Spackle
knife •Spackle
Stud finder •Power drill •Pry bar •Bucket •Chisel
•Adjustable wrench •Flathead screwdriver •Hacksaw
•Utility knife •Chalk line •Extension cord
How to Remodel a Bathroom in 7 Steps:
1. Remove Bathroom Fixtures
Assuming you’re partially or totally renovating your bathroom, you’ll need to start by removing drywall and any fixtures you’re replacing. Gutting the bathroom yourself isn’t too difficult, but make sure to follow these steps to avoid any costly mistakes during the demolition phase.
Tips forGutting a Bathroom:
Start by shutting off the water, draining and removing the toilet to avoid any unpleasant spills.
If you’re removing your bathtub, cover up the tub and start removing the bath tile down to the studs. This is necessary in order to rework the plumbing to fit your new shower or tub design. Remove the insulation from your walls where necessary. Do not use a hammer on insulation. Instead, use a reciprocating saw to cut out the panels. Wear a safety mask, gloves and goggles to avoid injuring yourself. Finally, remove the vanity, cabinets, mirror, flooring and any other features you plan to replace. When removing tile flooring, it’s a good idea to take off the baseboards and reinstall them after placing your new floor.
DIYBathroom Remodeling Tip: Renting a dumpster for your demolition debris will allow you to dispose of everything at once without having to drive to the local dump, cutting hours off your cleanup time.
2. Install the New Shower or Tub
After you’ve gutted your bathroom, you can start installing your new fixtures. If there are any signs of rotting wood or water damage to your subfloor, you should replace it before installing your new shower to prevent further damage. For a shower or tub replacement, you’ll want to pick a pan or basin that fits your new decor, as well as the space where your current tub sits. Basins usually come in a rectangular, square or pentangle (one corner cut off) shape. When choosing a base shape, make sure you the other features of your bathroom into account, including the location of the door. You could also consider installing a combination shower and bath tub if you have the space. While walk-in showers are more appealing to many homeowners, it’s recommended to keep at least one tub in the house for resale value.
3. Lay the New Flooring
After prepping your subfloor, you can start installing your new flooring. While tile is the most popular choice for bathrooms, you may consider other flooring materials like laminate or vinyl which are more affordable and DIY-friendly to work with. If you choose tile, use a mason’s chalk line to mark reference lines perpendicular (at a 90-degree angle) to the wall with the longest continuous line. This will allow you to keep your tiles in a straight line as you place them throughout the room.
4. Hang Drywall and Start Painting
The next step in your bathroom remodel is to hang your new drywall. This can be time-consuming, as you have to cut the new drywall to fit around your shower walls, vanity and other features. Once you start nailing up the boards, though, you should be able to get through this process quickly.
These are some important DIYbathroom remodeling tips to keep in mind during this step: Use drywall mud and tape to cover seams and fill in gaps.
Use cement board instead of drywall for the shower/tub wall.
Coat the cement board with Redgard or another waterproofing membrane to guard against water damage.
After you’ve put your walls back together, you can start adding some color to your bathroom. Painting the walls is one of the easiest and most cost-effective ways to freshen things up and give your space a whole new look. It’s best to use paint with a semi-gloss finish, which is easy to wipe down and resistant to mold and mildew. DIYBathroom Remodeling Tip: While you’re rehanging drywall and painting, it’s the perfect time to start retiling your shower and tub area if you plan to do so. Check out these handy tips to follow when tiling your bathroom walls or adding a backsplash.
5. Install Cabinets and Vanity
After you’ve taken care of the walls, you can bring in the vanity, cabinets and any other major items left on your bathroom renovation punch list. Install the vanity first, including the sink and faucet. Once you have the drain hooked up to the faucet, you can move on to the other essentials such as the mirror, cabinets and trim around the shower or tub.
DIYBathroom Remodeling Tip: Don’t have the budget for a new vanity? You can still renovate the room in a cost-effective way. Refinish and paint your existing bathroom cabinets, and add new hardware to achieve a brand-new look for less.
6. Update Lighting
Configure electrical fixtures and install your new lighting. If their dimensions are bigger or smaller than your current ones, you’ll need to adjust the wiring and potentially spackle around existing holes in the wall. This step may involve moving the power outlets if your new vanity fills the space differently from what you had before. After all, you don’t want to be reaching down next to the toilet to plug in your hair dryer every day. You should call in an electrician for this step, especially if you have never worked with home wiring before.
7. Hook Up the Plumbing
At this point in the process, your bathroom actually resembles a bathroom, except for one thing: the toilet. You could reinstall your toilet or put in a new one earlier in the process, but leaving it for last helps you avoid chipping it while working on other areas of the bathroom.
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