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LIVE FOR THE OUTDOORS NOVEMBER 2017
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NOVEMBER 2017 £4.60
AWESOME AUTUMN Secret life of a Lakeland cave
A
Wales’s forgotten mountain
Bothying for beginners
13 ROUTES + OS MAPS Ennerdale Snowdon Dartmoor Ben Macdui Buttermere Isle of Arran NW Highlands
WATERPROOF SPECIAL 12 PAGES OF EXPERT TESTS
JACKETS • TROUSERS • KIT The one that landed where an icon climbs an icon, and says: ‘wow.’
S U I LV E N To the top of Britain’s most iconic mountain with Alan Hinkes
THE NE W
E D I U G GE RAN
CLIMBE R O F S R CLIMBE Y B D E D ESI G N
RS
www.deutergb.co.uk
THIS MONTH IN
M A G A Z I N E
70 Special Forces navigation What can a hillwalker possibly learn from a gruelling Special Forces navigation g masterclass? We e go g through g it to find out...
40 Cambrian Mountains The highest point in mid-Wales isn’t in a National Park – but it is a cracking hillwalk.
T E A M T R A I L’ S MONTH Ben Weeks takes a legend of mountaineering up a legend of a mountain; then fights his way up a giant wall of ice – indoors on p30 & p62 Twitter @GingerheadBen Sarah Ryan heads to the highest point in the Cambrian mountains to find out how our hills are protected – or not – on p40 Instagram @sarahoutside
30 Assynt We introduce world-class mountaineer Alan Hinkes OBE to one of the most iconic hills on the planet. In Scotland.
Tom Bailey has photographed hundreds of Trail shoots – but how will he fare against the SAS and cave spiders? Find out on p70 & p48 Graham Thompson, our resident gear expert, gives the latest kit and best waterproofs a thorough Lake District standard test, starting on p86
Cover photograph: Suilven from the west. ESPY PHOTOGRAPHY / ALAMY
WELCOME TO NOVEMBER 2017 I’m always banging on about how amazing Suilven is, so I’m not going to do it again. There’s plenty said about this incredible Scottish mountain in this issue, on the feature beginning on page 30. You’ll read lots of descriptions about its astonishing form, the strangeness of its atmosphere, the transcendental location, the way it dramatically shifts shape with every angle you view it, enough to make you wonder if the mountain is also moving just a little bit for every move you make.
The way it leans, leers, leaps from the landscape and peers at you like an inquisitive creature, watchfully, with the sort of statuesque charisma you only usually find in an Italian sculpture museum. The sort that says, “Behold! I am a monument to everything that is amazing about the UK hills. Love me. Adore me. Climb me. And remember me for the rest of your life.” So. Nothing about Suilven. Now, where was I? Simon Ingram, editor (Twitter @MrSimonIngram) NOVEMBER 2017 TRAIL 3
112017 27 Alastair Humphreys
29 Mary-Ann Ochota
recommends the British books that have inspired him into a life of adventure.
gets into a bit of a tangle when bivvy bag meets chocolate Labrador.
48 “What kind of place is this where the mice would rather be outside?”
The Langstrath Cave offers tried and tested shelter... if you can find it.
30 An icon meets an icon: Alan Hinkes goes to Suilven
40 Under the tourist radar in Wales’ beautiful Plynlimon
Basecamp
Know How
Adventures
6 Moel Cynghorion
55 Bust boot laces 56 Low-down on barometers 57 Just how hard is Tryfan’s notorious summit jump? 58 Bothying inside-out 60 Scrambling grades explained 61 Know your raptors 108 Top picks for pubs, grub and accommodation
30 Suilven
It’s Snowdon’s unknown neighbour
8 Okehampton Five reasons to head south-west
10 Autumn splendour Why this is the best hill season
12 November’s hot product One ridiculously light rucksack
16 People who rock Ed Stafford gets Left for Dead!
18 Out there Your amazing mountain moments
22 Mountain photo comp Be quick – entries close soon!
24 Steve Backshall’s gear sale 4 TRAIL NOVEMBER 2017
Record-breaking mountaineer Alan Hinkes climbs this iconic mountain
40 Plynlimon A Welsh wonder discovered
48 Wild nights In a cave complete with chimney
62 Out with an expert Ice climbing basics indoors
70 SAS NAV Navigation for the be best of the e best
Win a trip of a lifetime on the Jordan Trail p67
CONTENTS Waterproof special
13 WALKS TO DO THIS MONTH
88 Top-end jackets to keep you dry 92 Waterproof jackets on a budget 96 Pick the right rain ain trousers
Plus, your kit list for keeping eeping dry – p98.
111 Ennerdale Route 1
113 Snowdon Route 2
Adventures from the Lakes’ wild valley
The Welsh giant via Moel Cynghorion
115 Aran Fawddwy Route 3
117 Cranmere Pool Route 4
Snowdonia’s lost corner
Journey into deepest darkest Dartmoor
Don’t miss your chance to be part of our Everest Anywhere challenge to win £710 of kit!
EXPERT ROUTES PLOTTED FOR YOU!
p76
Gear 85 Air power
119 Ben MacDui Route 5
121 Creag Dubh Route 6
Tackle Britain’s second highest hill
A cracker of a Cairngorm romp
123 Lorton Route 7-9
127 Glen Coul Routes 10-11
Discover the delights of Buttermere for a taste of classic Lakeland
Take on a bothy-to-bothy epic in a weekend-long Scottish adventure
Portable power using a very reliable British element
86 First test Is this the best synthetic insulation?
88 Waterproof jackets The best of the top-end
92 Best for budget Waterproof jackets for all
96 Waterproof trousers Your guide to picking the right pair
98 Kit list For packing to stay dry
100 Used and Abused Plus – Bashed by Backshall
132 Walk of a Lifetime: Glen Rosa Round 137 Ridge Guide: Daear Ddu NOVEMBER 2017 TRAIL 5
BASE CAMP
YOUR ADVENTURE STARTS HERE...
6 TRAIL NOVEMBER 2017
Moel Cynghorion’s secret slopes, as seen from the Llanberis path. JAN KNUREK
WALK OF THE MONTH
MOEL CYNGHORION SNOWDONIA
I
t often seems like if something is lost, it’s also bound to be valuable. The other glove, that important thing you put in ‘a safe place’, your keys, wallet, phone... In this case, it’s a hill. Midway along the western ridge to Snowdon, it’s neither a start nor an end point, it’s not the highest or especially spiky, it’s just a jutting up piece of ground and rock in the middle of many other bits of the same stuff. It gets missed, it’s a bit lost. And it is valuable. Moel Cynghorion stands proud of the ridge, a deep bwlch on either side separating it from Moel Eilio and Foel Goch to the west, and Garnedd Ugain and Snowdon to the east. It’s most often walked as part of a long ridge traverse – and rightly so, that walk is spectacular – but b its individual charms still deserve attention. Its easeful green slopes on one side belie the rough, exposed rock on the other. This hill has hidden drama, seen only from the Llanberis path and tucked away to the side of a deep cwm. Because it stands relatively alone, it commands views to all sides: close up, Snowdon and the steep crags of Clogwyn Coch; and much further away, Ireland’s Wicklow Mountains. Maybe, sometimes, things get lost because you don’t notice them. Well, it’s time to notice this.
Walk it this weekend: p113
NOVEMBER 2017 TRAIL 7
5
Late sunlight illuminates the granite outcrops at Belstone Tor.
REASONS TO HEAD FOR...
Okehampton In the northern foothills of Dartmoor, minutes from the National Park, is one ideal base. For magical woodland
Crowning the National Park, Okehampton has everything you need for a walking holiday in Dartmoor. Easily accessible by car and public transport, this corner of the south-west is a treasure trove of rolling hills, granite tors and deep, wooded valleys. The benefits of the town are on hand but you can also walk straight onto the moors within minutes.
As well as wide-open spaces, Dartmoor harbours secret gorges where fairies abide. Black-a-Tor Copse, a few kilometres south of Okehampton, in a deep gorge that cuts up towards the centre of the park, is a rare and precious example of high altitude oak woodland in the UK. Its damp climate and clean air supports lichens and mosses of national importance and it is a breeding site for a variety of bird species, including the ring ouzel and redstart. This small patch of twisted oak trees, hung with green fronds and rich with life, gives you a real experience of living natural history. Find it at SX566890.
1
To go wild
2
This National Park embraces all that is wild: wild camping is largely legal, wild swimming opportunities plentiful, wild places abound… Dartmoor positively encourages you to lose yourself to your more primitive self. Visit tinyurl.com/yddsfgrvv to see where camping is permitted and grab a copy of Wild Swimming Walks in Dartmoor and South Devon by Sophie Pierce and Matt Newbury for loads of wild swim and walk suggestions.
3
For a historic meal
4
Head to The Oxenham Arms Hotel and Restaurant near Okehampton, a former monastery, now-inn which has been serving food and drink for 540 years.
WHAT SAY YOU? Katie Bailey “Everywhere is beautiful. We stayed at the YHA in Okehampton. Good food!!”
John Noon “From Okehampton train station, follow the path up, cross the A30 and keep going up. Dartmoor will open in front of you. You can then hike on towards High Willhays, which is the highest point on the moor and then down to Meldon Reservoir.”
Scott Wallace “Great place to live by and to give letterboxing a go.” (See p117)
8 TRAIL NOVEMBER 2017
For a meal or four-poster overnight stay, it has an atmosphere like no other. Enjoy a meal or drink in the snug while admiring the South Zeal Menhir, a 5000-year-old, 17-ton granite stone which was carved by Neolithic man 1000 years before Stonehenge was built. It was rolled down a Dartmoor hillside over felled trees and propped upright as a pagan worship stone, where it has been ever since.
For cheap sleeps & plenty of adventure
5
Okehampton YHA has two sites: Bracken Tor and The Good Shed. Both are great budget bases for walking on Dartmoor and have small campsites if you prefer to sleep under canvas. YHA Okehampton also runs activities for all ages through Adventure Okehampton so you can try your hand at something new, such as gorge scrambling, climbing, mountain biking or kayaking. www.adventureokehampton.com
Fancy a route to get you started? p117
Martyn Jewell “Oxenham Arms in South Zeal. A pint or three of Merry Monk and a fine meal is a must.”
BEN JAMES
One word: Dartmoor
BASE CAMP
Highlights: Nov
ADAM BURTON / ALAMY
See fireworks from a hill Wrap up warm and head up the 251m peak of Arthur’s Seat in Holyrood Park, Edinburgh on 5 November for the best view of fireworks from up high. There’s no city quite like Edinburgh and what a way to experience Guy Fawkes night, followed by a hot toddy in a city bar just a short walk away.
Help rescue Ben Nevis’s legendary weather data Between 1883 and 1904 a weather observatory stood atop Ben Nevis, the remains of which can still be seen today. Three weathermen lived there and every hour recorded temperature, rainfall, wind speed, sunshine, cloud and pressure. For 20 years it was funded by various benefactors
– including Queen Victoria – but it had to close due to lack of resources. The men collected two million observations that have never been fully analysed – and now you can help rescue this data which could impact on weather forecasting today. The project, Operation
Weather Rescue, is being headed up by Reading University’s Prof Ed Hawkins who is calling for members of the public to help copy tables into a database. Find out more and volunteer at www.weatherrescue.org
Marmots: going, going... Hunting season for the increasingly rare #EverestAnywhere mascot, Marmot Marv, (see p76) closes on 3 November. There’s still time to climb high and find your own marmot hidden in the hills of the UK. To gain access to clues sign up to the challenge at www.lfto.com/everestanywhere
Meteorologist Clement Wragge’s observations cage, with the ruins of the observatory beyond.
World’s longest trail opens If the UK’s longest trail – the 630-mile South West Coast Path– just doesn’t quite cut it, Canada has announced the completion of The Great Trail – which at 14,912 miles, is the longest in the world! It links together cycle paths, footpaths, rail trails, waterways and roadways, passing through Canadian wilderness from coast to coast.
BMC = shopping discount BMC has announced a new partnership with Cotswold Outdoors and Snow+Rock, meaning on top of other member benefits, you can now get 15% discount from these outlets. Find out more at www.thebmc.co.uk
R E T N N R A O W C F O
RAB NEUTRINO POLYGIENE SLEEPING BAGS FROM £220
Washing a down sleeping bag is a laborious process. If the ritual’s not performed entirely accurately it can actually reduce the performance of the bag. To make matters worse, it’s estimated that washing and drying accounts for two-thirds of the environmental impact of a product. The Rab Neutrino range of minimalist, down-filled sleeping bags are the first technical bags to feature Polygiene’s anti-microbial technology. The anti-odour silver salt treatment means the fabric requires llesss washing, extending the lifetime of the bags, decreasing their environmental al impact, and saving you time that could be better er spent using, rather than cleaning, the bags. There are four models in the current Neutrino line-up: the £220 Neutrino 200 with a sleeping comfort limit rating of 1.5 deg C, the £310 Neutrino 400 (-4 deg C), the £380 Neutrino 600 (-8 deg C), and the £450 Neutrino 800 (-20 deg C). > WE SAY Y Lightweight highperformance sleeping bags that require equire less laundry per use. Sold! www.rab.equipment/uk
NOVEMBER 2017 TRAIL 9
TOM BAILEY
STEVE ALLEN TRAVEL PHOTOGRAPHY / ALAMY *
YOUR ADVENTURE STARTS HERE...
A kid’s jacket ja made of panda fur!
DO IT THIS MONTH
Don’t fret, this kids’ fleece isn’t made from actual panda – that’s just the name (we knew that). Rather than monochromatic bear fur, the Isbjörn Panda Stretch Hoodie uses PrimaLoft Silver Insulation Performance Fleece mixed with polyester and spandex to make it warm, stretchy, and available in a far greater range of colours than black and white. At £95 it’s not a cheap option, particularly given how quickly those pesky kids can grow, but its Scandinavian quality is evident and the soft, luxurious fleecy interior is so exquisitely soft and comforting that your main gripe will simply be that it only goes as large as age 14. Sorry, grown-ups. > www.isbjornofsweden.com
DON ’ T TE LL ’E M YOUR NAM E , PI K E!
_________ Pike
TOM BAILEY
Every month we publish a picture of a mysterious Pike – all you have to do is name it! This one lurks in the north-western Lake District – and (clue) it’s been extensively mined for lead... (Answer below).
GET STUFFED!
CUMBRIAN TATTIE POT (£10.50) As served at… The Woolpack Inn, Hardknott Pass, Lake District
“We discovered this Cumbrian classic for hungry hillwalkers after a long day up Scafell. On Hardknott Pass, in the heart of gorgeous Eskdale, Herdwick mutton and local beef are served up with black pudding, potatoes and carrots in this traditional belly-filling hotpot. And if that wasn’t enough, there’s home-made bread and pickles. They do beef-dripping chips, too. The D MENDE perfect end to a perfect day!” R E C O M M S H AW , > What’s the best post-hillwalk grub? BY LIA HAM Let us know at trail@bauermedia.co.uk OLD Which Pike? Grisedale 10 TRAIL NOVEMBER 2017
SOAK UP AUTUMN IN THE LAKES Bathed in the warm glow of autumn sun, with just a nip of winter in the breeze, the hills of the Lake District are at their very best as summer slips into its final spectacle. Bracken shrivels and dries to a crisp bronze blanket covering the slopes and melting into the still luscious green meadows of the valleys. Broadleaf-lined lakes reflect the reds and golds of the changing leaves in the dark stillness of water. An ethereal mist rises from the residues of summer sun captured in the depths of those lakes. This is a time in the Lake District that should not pass by unnoticed in the busyness of life. The summer crowds have dissipated so if you choose the right route, you’ll have it all to yourself. If only for a fleeting weekend, escape to the hills and take in a woodland walk to climb high above the trees to savour the heart-bursting beauty of the Lakeland fells in autumn.
BASE CAMP YOUR ADVENTURE STARTS HERE...
Late afternoon in mid-November on Side PIke, the Langdales beaming in the last of the autumn sun. STUART HODGSON
NOVEMBER 2017 TRAIL 11
We
are all
ямБghting
over...
12 TRAIL NOVEMBER 2017
BASE CAMP SIMON PRICE / ALAMY*
You might not be familiar with the name, but Italian brand Ferrino was founded over 145 years ago. Now it’s back in the UK with a specially selected range of tents, sleeping bags and packs. The Radical 30 is part of Ferrino’s Dyneema range of rucksacks, constructed from an ultra-light, high-strength Dyneema composite fabric. This material offers a strength to weight ratio that’s even greater than steel, resulting in a pack that weighs less than half a kilogram; 460g to be precise. The hyper weight-conscious can reduce this still further by removing the floating lid and straps, taking the Radical 30 down to a floaty-light 435g. This is even more impressive given that the back system is half decent – certainly more comprehensive and supportive than many super-light packs. The downside? The undyeable fabric is a slightly see-through off-white and more than a little crinkly, giving the whole pack a slight plastic bag look and sound. Its price tag makes it a considered purchase, too. But we’ve yet to come across another pack that manages to shed so much weight while maintaining so much performance. This might just be the next step in the evolution of lightweight kit.
NATURE NOTES
Monthly highlights to look for by TOM BAILEY – Trail’s four-season photographer
SALMON Salmon are found primarily in western and northern British rivers and spring sees the migration of returning adults ready to spawn. November also sees a migration of adults that will lay up until the spring when they too will spawn. When rivers are in spate, salmon will push ever upstream towards the spawning grounds, waiting in deep pools whenever the river drops. It’s these fish travelling to their spawning grounds that you may see leaping up waterfalls.
WILD SWANS By this, I mean Bewick’s and whooper swans. These two species migrate to our country in the autumn to spend the winter as their real northern homes (Siberia and Iceland respectively) become too cold. Upland tarns and lochs at this time of year are great places to see these true wandering swans. In flight, the two species will call – differentiating them from our native mute swan, which as its name suggests, is much quieter.
WAXCAP FUNGI We all know that this is a great time of year to look for mushrooms and toadstools. Among my favourite varieties are the waxcaps, probably because they are relatively easy to come by. As their name suggests they have a waxy cap, just like the coating of Edam cheese. Some varieties are red but other shades include orange, pink, green and white. They are a lover of rough pasture, so keep an eye out for these little gems.
> WE SAY Despite the funny looks, the Radical 30 is seriously good. www.ferrino.it/en
Sun and Moon cy cycle This month: Kendal, Lake District
9hr 23min New moon 19 October
Full moon 4 November
Hours of daylight 1 November
S H O E S T H AT TA K E S T H E M O C ?
Teenage Mutant Ninja... Tevas?
With a top lid, side mesh and a waistbelt, the Radical 30 also features a fast compression system to reduce load movement and create stability.
This is the Teva Ember Moc. Exactly what a Teva Ember Moc is, well, we’re not entirely sure. Best guess is somewhere between a slipper and a deck shoe. Tell you what, though, they’re ridiculously comfortable. As something to slip on after a long day in walking boots, it’s hard to imagine anything better. And the proper rubber outsole means they don’t d have to be limited to indoor use. Available in men’s and women’s sizes and a variety va of colours. Sure, you wouldn’t want to t strap on crampons and ascend the Eiger, Ei but for pottering around a campsite, bothy bo or hostel, they’re ideal. Your friends, other o campers, hostel staff and complete strangers may all point and laugh l (we did), but your feet f will regard it as the th best £55 you’ve ever eve spent. www.teva.co.uk www.teva.co.
RICHARD BECKER / TOM LANGLANDS PHOTOGRAPHY / ALAMY
FERRINO RADICAL 30 £186
YOUR ADVENTURE STARTS HERE...
BASE CAMP YOUR ADVENTURE STARTS HERE...
T H E M OU N TA I N B O O K S H E L F
OUTDOORS INDOORS
A summit selfie on Sersank from Mick (right) and Vic (left) in October last year and (inset) on Spantik in 1987.
MICK FOWLER
WATCH ALAN HINKES: THE MOVIE
HIMALAYA:
The Lake District premiere of Terry Abraham’s biopic of British mountaineer and longtime Trail contributor Alan Hinkes OBE takes place on 14-15 October. Alan – who in 2005 became the first Briton to climb all of the world’s 8000m peaks, the 14 highest mountains on earth – and Terry, whose Life of a Mountain films Scafell Pike and Blencathra became BBC hits, have been travelling the world preparing this. It’s sure to be spectacular, insightful – and a must-see. SEE IT! Tickets are selling out fast, book soon at www.rheged.com
THE TRIBULATIONS OF MICK AND VIC Mick Fowler and Vic Saunders Lulu Publishing
F
or reasons nobody will ever fully explain, Mick Fowler is more famous outside of Great Britain than in it. He is mountaineering royalty in France, for instance, having won the Piolet d’Or - the Golden Ice Axe – three times for multiple audicious first ascents on the sort of terrain that would make most of us fall over hyperventilating – and does so with the absolute least fuss. You might even get the impression he’s enjoying himself. Because Mick Fowler makes history in his holidays. Beneath the headlines he’s a normal bloke with a normal job working for HMRC, who in ‘idle’ moments undertakes the most scrupulous of investigations to identify what he calls “objectives” – Himalayan peaks, faces or lines that climax between 6000m and 7000m, and that nobody has ever climbed, or in many cases been anywhere near. He then squeezes a Himalayan ascent into his annual leave. Invariably this is with a good mate, typically Paul Ramsden or his mountain mucker of old, six-time Everest summitteer
14 TRAIL NOVEMBER 2017
Victor Saunders – with whom he reunited after 29 years in 2016 on the Indian peak of Sersank to knock over yet another unclimbed face. And it’s working on this book that prompted their mountain reunion. A project by Eric Vola to fuse selected writing by both Fowler and Saunders, this was originally published in France, where it won the Grand Prix at the International Mountain Book Festival in Passy. This English translation is a little budget in aesthetic, but the content is spot on. It captures both climbers’ characters well – Fowler direct and optimistic, Saunders rather less scrutable – with a narrative swinging between their respective, often amusingly contrasting accounts of key climbs. Those include their famous 1987 ascent of the Golden Pillar of Spantik, Fowlers infamous ascent of a St Pancras station toilet’s frozen outflow, and the duo’s reunion in 2016. A funny, unique and insightful book that deserves to be read: a true behind-the-scenes account from a pair of extraordinary modern mountain pioneers.
VISIT DOUG SCOTT: HIGH EXPOSURE The surreal setting of the D Contemporary gallery in Mayfair is mountaineer icon Doug Scott’s latest adventure, where this winter an exhibition of his epic black and white images will bring a taste of the Himalaya to the poshest bit of London. VISIT IT! D Contemporary Gallery, Mayfair from 31 November
BOOK KENDAL MOUNTAIN FESTIVAL With a great line-up of adventure movies, a brand new Literature Festival and a cracking bunch of speakers – including Sir Chris Bonington, Christopher Somerville, Jim Crumley and Johnny Dawes – this year’s Kendal Mountain Festival is shaping up to be the best yet. The event takes over Kendal’s Brewery Arts Centre between 16-19 November, and tickets have just gone on sale, so be quick! BE THERE! www.mountainfest.co.uk
ADVENTURE starts here
S K Y L A N D
CROSSING high performance hybrid / fast drying insulation / windproof front / flexible for mobility
Outdoor performance with modern style.
jack-wolfskin.com
BASE CAMP
Pe e People
YOUR ADVENTURE STARTS HERE...
who wh
rocked
Ed was the first ever person to walk the entire length of the Amazon taking him two-and-a-half years. Then he survived 60 days on a desert island, stripped of everything! Next, he gets Left for Dead...
ED STAFFORD
our month
T
he first hill I climbed was Snowdon. I left my teddy bear (Edward Bear) at the top and had to get the train back up to retrieve it because I was so distraught. Funnily enough I was back there as an adult getting my Mountain Leader certificate. My love of adventure was sparked by a childhood in the Leicestershire countryside building dams, tree houses and dens. It was a time when kids could roam the fields for days on end in the holidays without a care in the world. We would play manhunt (one boy was given an hour head start and the others sometimes took all day to find them) over a vast inter-village scale. I think with that playground as a start in life it’s no surprise I have zero interest in video games! Walking the Amazon in its entirety was the hardest of my adventures. I thought, optimistically, it would take a year, and was still walking 28 months later. I think there were so many opportunities and very valid reasons to quit! The hardest bit was staying true to my dream and trying to remember why on earth I had set myself such a daft and gruelling challenge. The days were extremely monotonous – it was like a humid, damp, uncomfortable prison sentence!
16 TRAIL NOVEMBER 2017
Ed Stafford shares his secrets of his all-action life as an adventurer... If I’m honest it used to be insecurity that pushed me beyond ordinary limits. It’s madness, but if someone told me I was “truly extraordinary” for walking the Amazon I began to grow in confidence and esteem; it filled the void inside. Nowadays I’ve become a lot more selfaware and understand these psychological mechanisms. The trips now serve to continue to push me outside of my own comfort zone and therefore ensure that I continue to learn and to grow. I think it keeps me humble and young at heart. My strength to survive difficult conditions really comes from that fact that I essentially volunteered to put up with conditions that most people would have quite rightly have said were unacceptable in the hope that I became a more accomplished version of myself. I learned from my dad that if you say you’re going to do something, you do it. So, in truth, once I’d started each task I knew I had no option but to see them through.
I have many favourite UK hills. At the army base in Warminster it was on Salisbury Plain; at home it’s up the Goadby Road; in Wales it’s Snowdon; and in the Peaks it’s Kinder Scout. It’s not the hill, it’s the view from the top, and the emotion of feeling completely free. I used to be all about the future. On my Amazon walk, I would constantly envisage the final day running down the beach into the ocean. I think that’s what made it so hard! It’s like watching the kettle boil – takes bloody ages! My lesson is to stop battling to get to the future and enjoy what is going on now. If I’d just relaxed in the knowledge that I was on the right path I could have enjoyed it a lot more. For example, the chance encounter with an indigenous hunter would have been wonderful and intriguing rather than annoying. For me it’s important to do things that bring me back to the present: go on a run, play rugby, meditate. They all work. I’ve got a new series out on Discovery Channel called Left for Dead. I had 10 days to escape some of the most remote places on earth. Self-filming the entire experience is important as it allows viewers to see things from my perspective. The show is on every Thursday on Discovery until 19 October. T
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Garnedd Ugain Snowdon “Here I am ‘owning’ Garnedd Ugain with Crib Goch in the background.” Kevin O’Brian, North Wales.
POSTCARDS AND DISPATCHES FROM YOU LOT!
Striding Edge Lake District Send your shots, marked ‘Summit Selfie’ to trail@ bauermedia.co.uk
Summit Selfie
Megan (left) and Emma, pictured by proud dad Andy Roberts from Doncaster, planning their next challenge after conquering Helvellyn via Striding Edge.
Lingmoor FFell Lake District Five-year-old George Miles is “over the moon” on his first mountain summit at Lingmoor Fell in the Lakes. “To cap it all we then saw an RAF transporter flying in the valley below us,” says family friend Peter Walter, from Tring, who took George camping for the first time.
Snowdon Snowdonia Phil Knopp from Tilbury with his partner Michelle Brooks and her sister Darien, say: “We had to be quick with our summit selfie as it was bustling with others wanting to take their own!” Each issue we’ll be giving away the new Summit 25/38 mattress from Multimat’s Expedition Expedit range. New materials make this th self-inflating sleeping mat tougher and a lighter for durability on unsupported nsupported expeditions. Tested to t -35°C, its wedge profile maximises comfort and minimises weight, while a warm zone improves tog value under the torso.
18 TRAIL NOVEMBER 2017
Trail editorial, Bauer, Media House, Lynch Wood, Peterborough PE2 6EA Email trail@bauermedia.co.uk Prefix all 6-digit numbers with 01733
EDITORIAL 01733 468205 Editor or Simon Ingram Deputy editor Jenna Maryniak Art editor or Louise Parker Acting production editor Caroline Davis News and features writer Ben Weeks Staff writer er Sarah Ryan Editorial & online assistant Sara Mattick Photographer apher Tom Bailey Technical editor or Graham Thompson Mountaineering editor or Jeremy Ashcroft Map illustrator or Steve Hall Head of publishing Shane Collins
Ben Nevis Scotland “Our summit selfie on our first family walking holiday in the Highlands. Day one saw us climb Ben Nevis, with Thomas, our nine-year old son, climbing unsupported and carrying all his own kit, while Sophie, our seven-year-old daughter, made it to the top and back unaided. It was a fantastic effort,” say a very proud mum and dad – Debra and d Stuart Ball, Northamptonshire.
ADVERTISING Commercial manager Anna Skuse (468435) anna.skuse@bauermedia.co.uk Key account manager Joe Sheehan (366402) Classified sales Tom Staggs (366388)
MARKETING
Marketing manager Lynne Fairburn (468111) Direct marketing manager Julie Spires (468164) Newsstand marketing eting manager Samantha Tomblin (468128)
PRODUCTION
Cairn Toul Cairngorms Jack, Frank and Jeff having lunch on Cairn Toul. Three of four Munros that day! Frank Mcgunnigle, Inverurie, Aberdeenshire.
Point Lenana Mt Kenya “Here’s my wife, Joanna, and I at Point Lenana with our daughter Lenana. We promised we’d take her to see her namesake one day. This August, we did,” Howard Cooper, Derbyshire.
Print production Colin Robinson (468072) Ad production leisureads@bauermedia.co.uk (468772) Printers William Gibbons Distribution Frontline (555161)
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BAUER CONSUMER MEDIA MD, Leisure & Technology ogy Nicola Bates Group managing director or Rob Munro-Hall CEO Paul Keenan Trail is published 13 times a year by Bauer Consumer Media Ltd, registered address Media House, Peterborough Business Park, Lynch Wood, Peterborough PE2 6EA. Registered number 01176085. No part of the magazine may be reproduced in any form in whole or in part, without the prior permission of Bauer. All material published remains the copyright of Bauer and we reserve the right to copy or edit, any material submitted to the magazine without further consent. The submission of material (manuscripts or images etc) to Bauer Media, whether unsolicited or requested, is taken as permission to publish that material in the magazine, on the associated website, any apps or social media pages affiliated to the magazine, and any editions of the magazine published by our licensees elsewhere in the world. By submitting any material to us you are confirming that the material is your own original work or that you have permission from the copyright owner to use the material and to authorise Bauer to use it as described in this paragraph. You also promise that you have permission from anyone featured or referred to in the submitted material to it being used by Bauer. If Bauer receives a claim from a copyright owner or a person featured in any material you have sent us, we will inform that person that you have granted us permission to use the relevant material and you will be responsible for paying any amounts due to the copyright owner or featured person and / or for reimbursing Bauer for any losses it has suffered as a result. Please note, we accept no responsibility for unsolicited material which is lost or damaged in the post and we do not promise that we will be able to return any material to you. Finally, while we try to ensure accuracy of your material when we publish it, we cannot promise to do so. We do not accept any responsibility for any loss or damage, however caused, resulting from use of the material as described in this paragraph. Competition terms and conditions, and winners’ details, are available from the editorial address above; please enclose an SAE. Letters / photos sent without an SAE cannot be answered / returned. Emails cannot always be replied to personally; sorry. COMPLAINTS: Bauer Consumer Media Limited is a member of the Independent Press Standards Organisation (www.ipso.co.uk) and endeavours to respond to and resolve your concerns quickly. Our Editorial Complaints Policy (including full details of how to contact us about editorial complaints and IPSO’s contact details) can be found at www.bauermediacomplaints.co.uk. Our email address for editorial complaints covered by the Editorial Complaints Policy is complaints@bauermedia.co.uk © Bauer 2017
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NOVEMBER 2017 TRAIL 19
Mt Triglav rigla Slovinia “Our Mt Triglav adventure this August saw us setting off at sunrise. We climbed 1550m to the Kredarica Hut, rested for 30 mins and then had an amazing climb of 350m on via ferrata to the summit 2864m by 2pm. It was incredible! We dropped back to the hut for the night, before descending the next morning. We have three awesome children who can climb and climb and were simply amazing on the via ferrata. A Slovenian commented that Drew must be ‘half boy,half goat’ at the rate and elegance of his descent. Pictured in descending order are Drew (8), Josh (11) and Abby (14), then me and my husband, Alistair.” Ali Comline, Cheshire.
Black Crag ag Lake District “This photo shows my two daughters, Martha (4) and Alice (2), bagging their second Wainwright earlier this year. Prior to this, they’d only been carried up to the summits in backpacks. Their first, in dodgier weather, was at Hard Knott, but Black Crag was completed on a scorching hot day. Here’s hoping they go on to bag many more summits through their lives!”
Helvellyn ellyn Lake District Says Amy Powell from Cambridgeshire: “Just sending a picture of my son Kane at the summit of Helvellyn via Striding Edge. He’s 12 and developing a keen head for heights (and steep drops!). This is the first hike we’ve done together where the sun has come out (having done Snowdon and Kinder Scout in driving rain)! We have our sights set on the Himalayas one day. Check out our (soggy) hiking adventures so far at www.mumupamountain.com”
Great Mell Fell Lake District “Took my two sons Jack and Charlie for a navigation lesson up Great Mell Fell in the Lake District. The weather couldn’t have been better so the views of neighbouring Blencathra and friends were very rewarding for them.” Chris Waldron, Greater Manchester.
Ingleborough Yorkshire Dales “We are a group of friends and colleagues from Oxfordshire Mind who travelled to the Yorkshire Dales to walk the 3 Peaks circular route from Horton in Ribblesdale to Ingleborough. After a few training walks local to home beforehand, we hired a minibus and headed north for ourr great, g , wet w adventure!” Paul Bobby, y, Oxfordshire.
FOUND!
A GPS unit at Ben Alder Cottage on 3 June. Could it be yours? If so, let us know what make it is and what some of the routes on it are to
Dolomites Italy What ho Trail! Here’s me ‘flying the flag’ for ‘Out there’”, says Mike Smart from Llangollen, Denbighshire. “We recently spent two weeks trekking in the fab Dolomites, Italy, and this picture was taken at the Rifugio Vajolet, 2234m, by the famous towers in Val di Fassa. “Keith Stephens from Bangor, North Wales, took the pic and we are both looking forward to going back to the Dolomites for more excellent trekking next July.”
BASE CAMP YOUR ADVENTURE STARTS HERE...
WINNER Laura, Emma & Poppy cooked in Corsica
Face of
Fatigue HOW TIRED?
Sophie snoozing on the Ben
Stephen spent on the Mullardoch Munros
Malcolm and Lisa slow in the snow on Beinn Ghlas
Poppy pooped on Liathach
WIN THESE SOCKS The owner of the best face wins three pairs of socks from 1000 Mile, creator of the original double layer sock with its famous Blister-Free Guarantee. 1000 Mile’s range now includes single-layer padded socks, plus the Fusion range, which mixes double layer and padding, and offers socks for every type of outdoor activity. Try them with free p&p, using the code TLFP. Send a picture of your haggard hill fizzog to trail@bauermedia.co.uk
verify ownership. Trail reader and honest finder Peter Stewart will kindly forward it on to its rightful owner.
COMPETITION Andrew Coutts' 2017 entry: Ben Vane, Arrochar Alps.
LAST CHANCE TO ENTER...
A Snowdonia ‘backie’ byJohn Wake.
Phil Ross' shot of a Haweswater wild camp. .
GET OUTDOORS, GET SNAPPING AND GET THE CHANCE TO WIN FUJIFILM CAMERAS WORTH £3,000!
#5
LOCATION CHOICE
TOM BAILEY
1 Be safe
UK MOUNTAIN PHOTO OF THE YEAR 2017 – ENTER NOW!
G
ot a great UK mountain photo? Quick, don’t miss your chance to enter the Trail Mountain Photo of the Year competition to win one of three fabulous Fujifilm cameras collectively worth £3,000. This prestigious competition has seen winners go on to appear on television, in newspapers, and even publish their own books! You can enter up to three images at
TIPS FOR GETTING A BETTER PICTURE Fujifilm ambassador and judge Mark Gilligan (www.wastwater photography.co.uk) continues his series of top tips on how to get a better mountain shot… but be prepared to be disappointed, because the good, old mountain weather doesn’t always play ball.
It’s obvious but sometimes it’s all too tempting to take risks when you see potential for a great shot – don’t; the hills will always be there. Remember to always tell someone where you are going and when you expect to be back.
3 Position
2 Planning
4 Timing
Forward planning is good to a certain degree
22 TRAIL NOVEMBER 2017
the website below. Entries close on 9 October 2017. Missed the deadline? You can still participate by viewing this year’s entries at www.livefortheoutdoors.com/ mountainphoto17 and, from 28 October 2017, voting for your favourite from a short-list. Whether you enter this year or next, our top photography tips below will help you take your best shots ever. So start practising...
Once in your chosen location don’t stay rigidly in the same spot. Move around to find what works best for you.
Figure out the best time of day to shoot the view
you want. Although into the sun can work, I prefer it when the light is behind me. One drawback, especially when the sun is low in the sky, is long shadows. Factor that in and drop behind a rock or to the floor to avoid your shadow.
5 Framing
It doesn’t matter if your chosen location is on a shoreline or up on high, make sure the image is interesting. Really assess the natural features on offer and factor those into your shot.
UK MOUNTAIN PHOTO OF THE YEAR
OUR JUDGES
MARK GILLIGAN New to this year’s judging panel is award-winning Lakeland photographer Mark Gilligan, who has been putting the Lake District in front of his professional lens for 40 years. As well as judging, as Fujifilm ambassador he will be contributing some tips and skills throughout the competition to help you take a winning shot (and use that super prize to its full potential!).
LOUISE PARKER
Matt Elkin's winter stunner of Crib Goch and Snowdon.
WIN THIS KIT!
GRAND PRIZE > FUJIFILM X-T2 with XF18-55mm lens worth £1,649 A compact, lightweight and robust camera, the FUJIFILM X-T2 delivers everything you need in a camera. Things like a large, high definition electronic viewfinder, 24.3 megapixel sensor, vintage-style dials that can be used with gloves on, high-speed autofocus and compatibility with an extensive range of high-performance interchangeable lenses. Add to that film simulation modes that inherit the legacy of Fujifilm colours, unparalleled image quality and outstanding 4K movie recording and you have the ultimate outdoor photographer’s tool.
SECOND PRIZE > FUJIFILM X-T20 with XC16-50mm lens worth £899 Incorporating many of the features of the X-T2 in a slimmer form with a vintage look, the X-T20 featu features the same 24.3 megapixel sensor but comes with a an integral flash and features more geared towards the t blooming enthusiast than the jobbing pro.
THIRD PRIZE > FUJIFILM X-A10 with XC16-50MM lens worth £499 A stunning compact camera featuring an interchangeable Fujinon lens. With 16.3 megapixe megapixel sensor, a slide-and-tilt screen on the rear, Wi-Fi and app control capability and intelligent flash, this th camera also comes with full HD video shooting and an a host of manual controls.
Trail’s art editor for almost 20 years, Louise may have professionally handled more pictures of the British mountains than anyone alive. With a keen eye for a unique composition and good light, Lou knows exactly what makes a good mountain image – and how hard they can be to take.
TOM BAILEY Trail’s own in-house snapper has, over his 19 years in the job, produced the most comprehensive mountain picture library in Britain. And they are far from just snaps because Tom’s dedication to his art and mastery of producing a sensational image – whatever the weather throws at him – has made his judgment as qualified as it is critical!
ALAN HINKES The only Brit to have climbed all of earth’s mountains over 8000 metres high – and the subject of a documentary released this October by outdoors filmmaker Terry Abraham – Alan is also a keen photographer who has captured surreal scenes from the very highest points on the planet. The results of this can be seen in his book 8000m.
BEN HAWKINS Ben is the editor of our sister magazine Practical Photography. An expert in technique and postprocessing, Ben assesses hundreds of photos each month as part of his job. Whether it’s an incredible moment captured on a smartphone or an image that’s taken months of dedication, it’s a level playing field for him – and he can spot Photoshop work at a hundred paces.
NOVEMBER 2017 TRAIL 23
BASE CAMP YOUR ADVENTURE STARTS HERE...
BID FOR STEVE BACKSHALL’S KIT! TV mountain man’s adventure-battered gear goes under Trail’s hammer for charity!
E
verybody likes a bit of gear with a story – and when you’re Steve Backshall, your gear will end up with a bit more of a story than most. You may know him as the guy who dices with some of the world’s most fearsome creatures in Deadly 60, but he is also an experienced climber, high altitude mountaineer and – as you’ll know if you read “Bashed by Backshall” each month (see page 101) – a bit of a gearhead. He’s climbed Himalayan peaks, written a great book entitled Mountain: a Life on the Rocks and his series Extreme Mountain Challenge was broadcast on BBC2 last year. In August, Steve donated a massive pile of his kit to Trail to be auctioned off for charity. And now we’ve sifted through it we’ve found some real gems, as well as some stuff that – how shall we say it? – wears the scars of its adventures with pride. Some of the kit will be coming with us to the big Trail Gear Sale at the Blencathra Centre on 22 October (see tinyurl.com/trailweekend) but most will be going onto our special eBay auction with no reserve from 7 10 October 2017. 7. See www.lfto.com/bidforbackshall for details. Proceeds are all going to Mountain Rescue so dig deep – and own a bit of kit that’s been bashed into (or out of) shape by TV’s most demanding adventurer!
OWN THIS KIT! Here’s some of the gear that could be yours... n Mammut Extreme Everest 50+10 rucksack (worn when climbing Himalayan Peak Cholatse and signed by Steve) n Helly Hansen goose down jacket n Salomon XA 3D Ultra running shoes n Mammut Gore-Tex Paclite mountaineering jacket (model unknown)
24 TRAIL NOVEMBER 2017
n Arc’Teryx Alpha FL 45 rucksack (worn on an ascent of Mt Asgard, Baffin Island) n Various baselayers and running shorts n Some brand new never-worn kit
...AND MUCH MORE! visit www.lfto.com/bidforbackshall
NOVEMBER 2017 TRAIL 25
Beautiful, exhilarating, inspiring, essential
Wild places are special. That’s why the John Muir Trust is dedicated to protecting and improving the breath-taking mountains and coastline, dramatic gorges, native woodlands and beautiful meadow in our care. Over 11,000 members support our work to care for wild places now and for future generations. Become a member.
johnmuirtrust.org/lovewildplaces The John Muir Trust is a Scottish charitable company limited by guarantee, Charity No. SC002061, Company No. SC081620, registered office: Tower House, Station Road, Pitlochry PH16 5AN
Cared for by the John Muir Trust: Sandwood Bay in stormy winter light by Peter Cairns/ scotlandbigpicture.com
OUTDOOR OPINION
Founder of the microadventure movement, author and adventurer Alastair has cycled round the world, run across deserts and rowed across the Atlantic. Now he faces his latest discovery – the British hills. And he’d love to hear from you: @Al_Humphreys
Alastair Humphreys
I
have always loved books – travel and exploration books in particular. And I’m jealous of people who’ve not read The Worst Journey in the World, or The Kon-Tiki Expedition, or Wind, Sand and Stars, for they still have those joys to come. When I first began reading books like this I was a student in Edinburgh and riddled with wanderlust. Desperate to explore mythicalsounding places like Patagonia and the Karakoram, I burned off my energy dashing around the Pentland Hills and up and down Arthur’s Seat. When I discovered the wonderful variety of books about British landscapes and adventures, I began using them as inspiration for planning trips around the UK, so I want to share some of my favourites with you to encourage you to read them and use them to hatch ideas of peaks to climb and places to explore. For example, I love Waterlog g by Roger Deakin. It’s part nature writing, part mildly anarchic travelogue, about a swimming journey round the UK. Last summer I set out one hot day to swim in a series of the spots he mentions in his book and make a little film about it. It was fabulous in every way. Or take Mountains of the Mind, by Robert Macfarlane. Macfarlane is
a writer who was clearly issued a bigger brain than me, but we share a strong love of wild places and words. His description of Loch Coruisk as bearing ‘a silence that reached backwards to the Ice Age’ inspired me to visit that beautiful spot. Macfarlane has also pointed me in the direction of other books I have loved, including Nan Shepherd’s ode to the Cairngorms, The Living Mountain. Britain’s countryside is also a rich source of properly tough, gritty adventures. I loved Mike Cawthorne’s Hell of a Journey, shivering my way through his unbroken winter passage up and over all of Scotland’s 1000-metre mountains. Similarly eccentric, Ronald T Turnbull’s The Book of the Bivvy opened my eyes to the possibilities of travelling fast and light, sleeping high, and the joys and frustrations of dropping down from the hills in search of open village shops, and the
cost-to-calorie benefits of custard cream biscuits. Two more for you, in the spirit of encouraging you to travel simply and look and see more deeply: The Gentle Art of g by Stephen Graham, Tramping and Dominick Tyler’s Uncommon Ground. The more you know about a landscape, I find, the greater the experience; learning birdsong, the shapes of trees and the names of the hills I see (I can recommend the brilliant Skyline app from www.viewranger. com). And I’d love to hear your recommendations via @al_humphreys on Twitter for books that will help me learn more about the ancient hills of our land. Finally, I fear that this month you’ll hear the first Christmas song playing on the radio. Use this as a cue to go climb a hill immediately! And be sure to look out for the next supermoon too, biggest and brightest on 3 December. T
“The more you know about a landscape, the greater the experience” NOVEMBER 2017 TRAIL 27
ALASTAIR HUMPHREYS
Why travelling through books opens a whole new world
OUTDOOR OPINION
RORY SOUTHWORTH
Anthropologist Mary-Ann is author of Hidden Histories: A Spotter’s Guide to the British Landscape and BMC Hillwalking Ambassador. When not presenting on radio adio and TV, she does love an adventure in n the hills. Throw in a mate, the dog, some ome chocolate and a wild camp and she’s he’s a happy lady. @MaryAnnOchota
Mary-Ann Ochota
When my bivvy bag nearly became a doggy body bag...
W
hen I walked 500km across the Australian Outback I forgot to put the footbeds in my boots. Thankfully my feet swelled up to absorb the extra space. I once walked into a tree while shouting at my lovely Labrador, Harpo, for barking at a log. But my worst sin of idiocy happened on the famously dangerous South Downs. Harpo and I reach Lewes station at 10pm. It’s raining. We’re out for a night walk and some wild camping. We start walking; it carries on raining. But still, I’m neither sugar nor salt, there’s no such thing as bad weather, blah, blah, so off we go. I resolve to stop walking when the rain stops. At 2am Harpo is whimpering gently – and it’s still raining. ‘Right,’ I think. ‘This’ll have to do.’ It’s windy, sideways December rain, the proper wet stuff. I find a small grassy shelf 1.2m above the footpath, just below the brow of the hill. I’ve only brought one bivvy bag for Harpo and me to share. A 5' 11" woman and a 40kg dog. That’s a lot of body to arrange in one bag. We manage, Harpo curled at the top of my head like a living, whimpering Russian hat. The rain is getting in, so I zip the zip
all the way up (I know, I know). Five minutes later Harpo rearranges himself. As he slumps down, the bag lurches. Suddenly we’re slithering and twisting and tumbling down, down, down. The slick, wet grass under our slick, wet bivvy bag; the edge of the ledge too close; and we’re sliding head first towards the footpath. I come to a stop face down, feet in the air, balanced on my outstretched hands. Harpo is nose to nose with me in the pitch dark. I reach for the zip and… it’s not there. In our tumble, the bag has twisted. I grope and all I get are folds of Gore-Tex. No zip. And I realise our bivvy bag has turned into a body bag. If I can’t find the zip, we’re utterly screwed. Some walker will find our asphyxiated corpses in a heap on the footpath in the morning. The local papers will
have a field day. My family? It’ll be baffling and awful and they won’t be able to explain it because, surely, even I’m not idiotic enough to trap myself in a breathable but unsurvivable bivvy bag. Except it turns out I am. I reach for my knife to cut us out, then realise it’s in my rucksack. Outside. Now it’s hot and I’m feeling panicky. Harpo is still patiently nose to nose, waiting for me to fix this. And then, just before things get very, very bad, I feel the edge of a seam and in some Wonder Woman feat of strength – the kind where mothers lift cars off babies – I pull at it and literally rip my bivvy bag in two. I’ve never been more happy to get soaked with rain. Harpo sits next to me, quietly, patiently, steaming in the black night. Only one of us is whimpering. So go on: what’s been your most stupid outdoor moment? T
‘‘I realise our o bivvy bag has turned into a body bag. If I can’t find the zip, we’re utterly screwed.’’ NOVEMBER 2017 TRAIL 29
SUILVEN
30 TRAIL NOVEMBER 2017 2017
The clouds part on the summit of Suilven, revealing the wild beauty of the Assynt landscape (and an excessively ornate cairn).
LEGEND OF THE NORTH Suilven is a magnetic mountain, drawing attention and devotion from all mountaineers. But one had yet to fall under its influence. Trail took him north to discover the attraction… WORDS BEN WEEKS PHOTOGRAPHY TOM BAILEY
NOVEMBER 2017 TRAIL 31
T
wenty thousand kilometres. That’s what separates North Pole dwelling polar bears from their Antarctic penguin pals. But it’s still easy to forget that these frosty fellas don’t hang out together like Christmas cards suggest. And that’s nothing. Fifty-nine million years is what separates dinosaurs from cavemen (plus another six million until Raquel Welch appears on the scene). Yet it can be difficult to get your head round the fact that the whole running/screaming/hiding from a T-Rex never happened outside of Hollywood. And finding out that one of the UK’s greatest mountaineers has never set foot on one of its greatest mountains? Mind. Blown. “Suilven seems to have escaped me – what with having been in the Himalaya,” Alan Hinkes explained as we left the Suileag bothy and headed into the Assynt wilderness. A fair point; there were one or two or 14 other summits occupying Alan for much of his mountaineering career. You can read about those in his book 8000 Metres, or catch the biopic Alan Hinkes OBE – The first Briton to climb the world’s highest mountains from filmmaker Terry Abraham which premieres this October. This article is about a lower, but by no means lesser mountain.
32 TRAIL NOVEMBER 2017
It’s not often we get the opportunity to right a great wrong. It’s inconceivable that Alan should go through life without becoming personally acquainted with Suilven, and with Trail in a position to make that introduction, it’s inconceivable that we wouldn’t. So, photographer Tom Bailey and I, accompanied by my brother to make the most of the car’s capacity and the diesel being burned, collected Alan from his usual stamping ground in northern England and escorted him to the far, far north-west of Scotland. He’s not alone in having Suilven unticked on his hill list. For many, the biggest obstacle to overcome is simply getting to Assynt. From southern England you’re facing a journey of around 700 miles and at least 12 hours to get to Lochinver. And from Lochinver it’s a 10km-plus walk-in just to get to the base of Suilven. This is why we’d chosen to punctuate our trip with a grimly wet ascent of Canisp the day before and an overnight stay in the sparse delights of Suileag bothy. The weather was only marginally better this morning, though. Suilven’s form came and went, the mist-obscured view teased by the breeze. But what a form. From the seas to the west, Suilven rises from the treeless Glencanisp Forest as a singular, blunt-topped monolith. This is the view that the Vikings passing
High on Canisp with Suilven breathing fire in the distance.
Alan Hinkes contemplates the day ahead over a cup of coffee (above top) in the Suileag bothy (above bottom). Right: Suilven’s eastern peak, Meall Meadhonach, emerging from the mist. Far right: the local ptarmigan begin their winter moult from brown to white.
SUILVEN
Sizing up Suilven; Caisteal Liath – the Grey Castle – from the banks of Abhainn na Clach Airigh.
through The Minch were met with, and gives the mountain its name; Suilven translates r And through Norse and Gaelic as The Pillar. r. here’s another cool name: Suilven is a nunatak. At least it was. A nunatak is an exposed peak or ridge of rock that protrudes from an ice sheet. When the glaciers swept over the Lewisian Gneiss bedrock of Assynt, at 3000 million years old the most ancient in Britain, Suilven’s Torridonian sandstone was left poking out like a glacial stepping-stone. Today, isolated peaks that rise up out of an almost flat landscape are known as inselbergs: island mountains. But it’s when viewed side-on that you really get to appreciate the craftsmanship of the ice that sculpted Suilven. At 731m, it’s diddy by Scottish standards, but its steep-sided sleeping dragon profile is every bit a mountain. The western end is a rounded whale-back of a peak which rises with rude abruptness � from the landscape. This is Suilven’s true summit, Caisteal Liath, or the Grey Castle – a fitting name for such a fortress-like rock. The eastern end is more jagged and spined, with the ridge culminating in three distinct peaks, the central top,
NOVEMBER 2017 TRAIL 33
“CLOUDS BILLOWED UP FROM ITS BELLY AND POURED OVER THE ROCK, CASCADING EARTHWARD BEFORE CATCHING THE BREEZE AND SPIRALLING SKYWARDS ONCE MORE.”
34 TRAIL NOVEMBER 2017
SUILVEN
Meall Meadhonach (Middle Round Hill), being the highest of the three and Suilven’s eastern summit. The most straightforward way to gain the behemoth’s back is to climb to the bealach that separates the eastern and western peaks. And while the Gaelic word bealach is entirely appropriate here (Bealach Mor to give this one its full name), if ever such a landform deserved the more metaphoric description of a ‘saddle’, it’s this one. The clag still clung to the high ground as we navigated the pools and peat bogs to Suilven’s foot and began the sharp climb up the rough track to its waist. And then it began to rain, the gloom losing its transient quality and appearing to set in for the day. At the bealach a wall runs across the mountain from north to south,
dividing it in half. We took shelter behind it in the hope that the worst of the weather might pass while we admired the tenacity of the wall builders who took on the more vertical boundary stretches. Alas, although the rain eased and then stopped, the low cloud went nowhere. In resignation we upped and proceeded to the viewless summit. The top of Caisteal Liath is a surprise. It’s wide and grass covered – completely at odds with its steep, cliff-edged flanks. But they’re there – lurking just out of sight beyond the round green edges, so it doesn’t do to wander too aimlessly. Adorning the highest ground on the hill is a large cairn that, on our visit at least, had been augmented by some artistic rock-balancing. While Tom shot photos of
�
NOVEMBER 2017 TRAIL 35
Alan exploring in the mist, my brother and I collected stones that had tumbled free from the main pile and added our own embellishments to the cairn. The mountain weather gods approved. Almost imperceptibly at first, it began to brighten. The clag lightened in greyness until it was almost white as the sun broke through the layers of cloud. Thinning wisps parted to reveal glimpses of a hidden world. Distant lochans glinted in the sun like shards from a shattered mirror. And then, Suilven awoke. The murk broke completely and we were looking east along the ridge of a mountain breathing smoke. Clouds billowed up from its belly and poured over the rock, cascading earthward before catching the breeze and spiralling skywards once more. Breathtaking is a word that’s over used, to the point that it’s lost value. It’s the word I need to use now, but it’s not enough. We were rooted to the spot by the spectacle. Mountain weather is notoriously changeable, and Assynt is no exception. Here the mountains are separated by expanses of open terrain. The unique topography of the north west Highlands is known as ‘knock and lochan’ landscape; ‘cnoc’ being a small hill in Gaelic, and the small water-filled hollows that dot the scenery, lochans. It means
Approaching the scramble on to Meall Meadhonach. The way is steep and the drops are big.
36 TRAIL NOVEMBER 2017
there’s nothing to interrupt weather gusting in from the wild seas to the west, so when it arrives it often does so at speed. We wanted to bag the eastern peak before the clag returned to rob us of the views. As we descended back towards the wall, Alan gestured over to another striking outline to the south: Stac Pollaidh. “I saw it in a geography textbook long before I was a climber. Just the shape of it inspired me. I made a pilgrimage to climb it some years ago. Never got around to Suilven. Until today!” From the bealach the mountain begins to climb once more, arriving at a broad and utterly false summit. This rounded hill is obvious, but unnamed on OS maps. It does, however, provide the first real glimpse of what’s ahead. From this high point the ground drops steeply through rock and grass to a notch in the ridge. Meall Meadhonach lies on the far side and is protected by a near vertical rock band that demands an airy scramble over terrain that has the potential to be treacherously frictionfree in the wet. It’s not a climb to be considered unless you’re confident of your abilities, have a head for heights (the exposure is BIG) and the conditions are favourable. Of course, it helps if you have a record-breaking mountaineer and veteran of the Himalaya with you...
We left our packs on the unnamed summit and, with Alan leading, climbed slowly and carefully to the top of Meall Meadhonach. Although much narrower than Caisteal Liath, it was again surprisingly flat and green. The cautious ascent had given the cloud time to return, and although glimpses of the innumerable pools of water sparkled through the haze, the views had gone. The smile on Alan’s face suggested it didn’t matter. We could have stopped after the west summit and considered Suilven ‘bagged’. The east summit was a bonus, but one that had given us a more intimate insight into the heart of the mountain. We could live without a view. The climb back down was trickier (aren’t they always?) as the mizzle greased the rocks and turf, but during the walk out, the cloud lifted just enough to reveal the whole of Suilven once more. And although the clouds threatened to swallow it back up, the mountain stayed out to watch us back to the bothy, its looming silhouette remaining on the skyline as the sun sank beyond the western world. It’s an impressive sight, Suilven; stark, bold, unique. And if ever anyone needed an example of how the measure of a mountain is never purely in its measurements, they need only come to Assynt and look upon Suilven. T
SUILVEN
HINKES O N S U I LV E N “Assynt is like a BIG page from a physical geography textbook! A wondrous place of rocky old glaciated peaks. And Suilven is a fantastic mountain – a crescendo of an ascent. It looks dramatic and almost unscalable for a walker, but it is a very exposed steep walk, with exceptionally rewarding views. It feels like a big mountain peak. I’d recommend it. “It was special to climb it in such ethereal weather conditions – setting off in the morning in clagged-in greyness and then the cloud melting away as steam from a kettle dissipates. It was magical, revealing a Tolkien-like landscape with a view to Stac Pollaidh and beyond.
Trail was based at Coillessan Lodge in Inverkirkaig near Lochinver. This self-catering chalet sleeps four in one double room and one bunk room and includes a bathroom, a fully equipped kitchen, complimentary Wi-Fi and a stunning upstairs living/dining area with a small lit balcony from which to enjoy the spectacular scenery. For more information including availability and prices visit www.coillessan-lochinver.co.uk
“Since then I’ve seen the film ‘Edie’ about a woman played by Sheila Hancock who climbs Suilven. It’s a lovely film, with moving scenes and great views.”
TRAIL’S ROUTE
Inverkirkaig
START/ FINISH
Lochinver
Loch Fionn Fionn Loch Cnoc na Circe Cairn
Loch Druim Suardalain
Casisteal Liath Caisteal Liath
na --hh
chhlal ise --AAc iase
N N
Meall nan Leapaichean SS
P II P
Glencansip Lodge
a BBa
in AbAhbahian
N N
C C AA
SUIL
N VE
dd
Bealach Mór Meall Meadhonach Meall Beag
G LL G
Loch a’ Choire Dubh
Suileag (bothy)
OVERNIGHT
aC
llaacchh
irigrhgh AA
EE
ninn
n nn
N
H
footbridge
RT
footbridge
NO
imh
a Gain
Loch n
ai AbAhbah
Strenuousness lllll Navigation lllll Technicality lllll (if west summit only is climbed) Technicality lllll (if east summit is attempted– see page 110 for or ratings explanations)
Distance 26km (16 miles) Total ascent 1072m Time 10 hours/2 days Start/finish Lochinver NC093226 Maps OS Explorer (1:25,000) 442; OS Landranger (1:50,000) 15; Harvey Maps Superwalker (1:25,000) Suilven; Harvey Maps British Mountain Map (1:40,000) Assynt
NOVEMBER 2017 TRAIL 37
E+OE Prices subject to change. Goods subject to availability
PLYNLIMON
BEYOND THE BOUNDARIES
Wales is covered in wild land, but not all of it is protected by National Parks. What does that mean for these hills? We went to one of the highest to find out… WORDS SARAH RYAN PHOTOGRAPHY TOM BAILEY
40 TRAIL NOVEMBER 2017
Miles of hills and there’s nobody here... Craig yr Eglwys looking into Cwm Gwerin.
NOVEMBER 2017 TRAIL 41
A gentle walk in through a wide open space: along the Afon Hengwm valley.
D
id you know that the UK’s National Parks are not protected in the same way that, say, Yellowstone National Park is? In fact, technically, they’re not even National Parks at all. I didn’t, and I had to go to a 752m hill in the middle of Wales, that isn’t part of any park, of any definition, to find out. We park at the end of a long, skinny road, after rolling slowly over its sinuous humps and bends, barricaded periodically by metal gates. The road has come to a halt, next to the irregular arm of a dragonshaped reservoir, so we stop and climb out, rolling stiff shoulders and stretching cramped limbs. Ours is the only car here. Which is sort of surprising given that a) we’re about to climb the highest hill in midWales, where b) the longest river in Britain has its source alongside c) another of Wales’ most famous waterways. It’s even more surprising when you consider that we’re standing in the middle of a huge range of wild hillside and it’s a beautiful day. Blue sky, frosty in the shade, toasty in the sun – perfect for walking. And nobody is doing it – at least not here. I guess this is just one of the effects of being outside of a National Park: lower foot traffic. There are others, but we’ll get to them. We’re – that’s me and weathered hill photographer Tom – at the bottom of Plynlimon, or Pumlumon Fawr in Welsh. Pumlumon means ‘five peaks’, Fawr implying its stature as the highest. Although, if you tap it into Google translate, it will tell you that what it really means is Big Pumpkin. It does look kind of orange in this light… We’re here for a few reasons. Partly because people rarely come here and we like to do what others don’t, even if it becomes eminently clear part way through that there’s a reason why no-one else does these things. Partly because it’s a big hill and sounded cool and interesting. And partly because it’s right in the middle of an entire mountain range that isn’t corralled by a National Park. We want to see what that means for a 752m hill which, if it were, would surely receive far more love than it currently does. So off we go, buffs, gloves and investigative hats on to check out this outlier.
I don’t really need to tell you that it’s quiet – given that we’re the only people here – but it is. The reservoir is fed by several young rivers and we follow its longest tributary north-east into a shallow basin. My boots crush deeply into marshy, frost-frozen ground and I’m thankful for the hill’s shadow as its chill has saved us from the goop. Everything falling into it glimmers white or is cast blue; while further up the hill, the low sun strikes the ground with warm colour and light. On we crunch, following the river bends until it splits and the hills get closer in. A ruined farmstead lurks abandoned by the water, amplifying the quietness. These hills are still worked, but remotely, aided by quad bikes and 4x4s. Families once lived up here, but no more. Much of Plynlimon is, or has been, given over to grazing. You can tell because these hills appear far more barren than their abundance of water, light and peaty ground should suggest. We climb the edge of Craig yr Eglwys, a crag leading up to one of Plynlimon’s five peaks and abruptly leave the cool shadow, crossing into radiant sunlight. Among the boulders is one old and twisted tree, poised as if looking down the valley, contemplating the rich flora that would once have lain at its gnarled feet. Now it looks over yellow grass and a winding river. With a terrifying, burbling squawk, a bundle of brown feathers explodes from the undergrowth at my feet and hurtles into the boulders. I jump so hard I nearly fling myself to my death from the rock I’m standing on. “What was that?!” “A woodcock!” shouts Tom. “They hide until the last moment, then suddenly fly away if you get too close. Let’s see if we can find it again.” I would actually love to see this bird, with its bulky body, little legs and long bill so we hop off between the boulders. It rockets out of the undergrowth again – a whirring blur – and plops down, immediately invisible. “Wow!” It would clearly be a mistake to think that these hills are entirely barren. Life is always hiding in the cracks, � ready to spring out and scare you silly.
“PUMLUMON MEANS ‘FIVE PEAKS’, FAWR IMPLYING ITS STATURE AS THE HIGHEST.”
*FLPA / Alamy
The elusive woodcock favours woodland and upland bracken. There’s plenty of the latter here.
42 TRAIL NOVEMBER 2017
PLYNLIMON
Climbing the ‘dragon’s spine’ of Craig yr Eglwys.
A celebrated start for the River Severn.
NOVEMBER 2017 TRAIL 43
“THIS ENTIRE MOUNTAIN RANGE ISN’T CORRALLED BY A NATIONAL PARK. IF IT WERE, IT WOULD SURELY RECEIVE FAR MORE LOVE THAN IT CURRENTLY DOES.”
44 TRAIL NOVEMBER 2017
PLYNLIMON
Not a National Park but glorious nonetheless – descending Plynlimon with the Cambrian Mountains arrayed at your feet.
�
NOVEMBER 2017 TRAIL 45
Arriving at Pumlumon Arwystli – one of the hill’s five peaks.
The Severn springs almost from the top of this northern splodge of hill, a short tromp away through disorientating grass and bog. We take a bearing, the ground dips, turns black and mulchy. We’re looking for a trickle of water in a boggy marsh. Fortunately,
WHAT IS A NATIONAL PARK? The UK has 15 National Parks, funded by central government but administered independently. Their stated aims are to: n Conserve and enhance the natural beauty, wildlife and cultural heritage n Promote opportunities for the understanding and enjoyment of the special qualities of National Parks by the public. n They are also required to take into account the wellbeing (economic and otherwise) of communities within the park. However, there is another type of National Park, as defined by the International Union for
Conservation of Nature (IUCN), and its World Commission on Protected Areas. The IUCN ranks protected land on a scale from I-VI. I is a ‘Strict Nature Reserve’ and the highest category of protection; VI is a ‘Protected area with sustainable use of natural resources’. By their ranking, Category II is National Park and includes Yellowstone National Park among others. But the UK National Parks fall into Category V ‘Protected Landscape/ Seascape’. This basically means that it’s a cultural landscape, rather than an entirely natural one, and the aim is to conserve it as such.
Learn more about this at www.iucn.org and www.nationalparks.gov.uk
46 TRAIL NOVEMBER 2017
this one is famous. “What’s that?” I ask Tom, pointing at a big stick. This is the kind of thing you have to investigate when you’re out on the hill and we squelch hopefully towards it. Success! That big stick is, in fact, a post and next to it is a thin stream. ‘Source of the Severn’ declares the post in big letters on one side, and, in Welsh, ‘Tarddiad Afon Hafren’ on another. The newborn river is 610m high and will travel about 220 miles before it muddles with the sea at the Severn Estuary. A slabbed path leads downhill, this waymarked long-distance route following the river’s long course all the way to Bristol. It’s a great city but we’re not going there today, we’re going to find the source of another river, the Wye. Why? Because it’s there, I guess. Plynlimon is the largest watershed in Wales, which means that the rain falling on its top will roll either to the right or the left, setting its inevitable trajectory to the east or west. Two raindrops falling together could end up in very different places. Or, they could end up in exactly the same place. After 134 miles, during which it will form part of the border between England and Wales, and create for itself an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, the Wye will rejoin its sibling river at the Severn Estuary. For almost its entire length it is designated a Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI). Downstream, the Wye gains strict Special Area of Conservation status – the highest level of protection in the UK and Europe. But the SSSI’s protection is not absolute, it requires only that anyone wanting to do anything to the area which might damage it, get permission from the relevant
PLYNLIMON
environmental body first. That permission can be refused. It’s only when investigating this that I discover that almost the whole of Plynlimon is an SSSI. And that right next to it is an absolutely gigantic Biosphere Reserve. I’ve never even heard of this before but it covers miles and miles of ground, from Aberystwyth to Dolgellau. Clearly, National Parks are only the most visible form of protection our wild land has. The country is netted with sites, areas, zones and reserves. Despite the fact that it’s valued enough to be doubly protected, the source of the Wye springs unceremoniously from the hillside. No marker post, no paving slabs, no long-distance path following it along. Just water running out of a deep cleft in the earth. These two rivers almost represent the competing elements of a National Park. One is popular, well-visited and iconic. The other is ecologically valuable. Those competing interests are neatly divided between these two rivers springing from Plynlimon but, actually, many of our hills are placed under exactly the same pressures at the very same time. National Parks have a system for dealing with this, but hills like Plynlimon don’t always benefit from this kind of formality. On the other hand, they also slip under the tourist radar and so suffer less from the bootfall erosion that grinds away at honeypot hills.
Strenuousness l l l l l Navigation lllll Technicality l l l l l
Distance 13km (8 miles) Total ascent 577m Time 4 hours Start/finish Road end at Maesnant SN774879 Maps OS Explorer (1:25,000) 213 & 214; OS Landranger (1:50,000) 135
O
TRAIL’S ROUTE
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Craig yr Eglwys
Plynlimon’s summit is only a 60m grassy rise away from the spring, and we turn towards it. We barely notice another of its low peaks and are soon on its highest point, the highest bit of the Cambrian mountains, with a little more edge than the rest of the hill: steeper ground, exposed rock and a high lake. The enormous reservoir sprawls below, umber hills humped up around it. Some are coated with blocks of forestry, wind turbines gently turn on others. This is a topic that’s so hot I think I just scalded myself thinking about it. Some me people will go to great lengths to keep them from rom our hills. Others see climate change as an infinitely ely greater threat to wild Pen Pumlumon Arwystli places worldwide. Plynlimon, n, so far, has none. What constitutes protection ction in the first place isn’t always readily ily agreed on. Source of the Down n below, at the kind of River Wye gradient ient you can easily pace Cwm Craig Craigyy outt at a run, is the car and Gwerin March Pen Pumlumon Fawr as the he shadows start to reclaim claim big sections of hill, Llyn Llygad wee turn down towards it. Rheidol Pumlumon Pumlumon Fach Fach Conservation, tourism, legal egal status, business and personal devotion – our hills and the lives that Pantau’r rely on them are pulled Brwyn in directions as different as the cardinal points on Fainc Ddu a compass. Bryn yr Hydd Plynlimon’s not part of a National Park but START/ it’s legally protected, FINISH it’s valued and it’s part Bryn y Beddau of a major peatland Maesnant restoration project. How do we look after our hills? It’s a question worth spending time on. Nant-y-moch Reservoir You ou can think it over on your ur next long walk – I know justt the hill for it. T
N RTH
Source of the River Severn
The highest point in the Cambrian Mountains – Plynlimon’s summit.
NOVEMBER 2017 TRAIL 47
WILD NIGHTS
Just another evening of reading and resting in commodious comfort. And trying not to think about cave spiders.
48 TRAIL NOVEMBER 2017
LANGSTRATH CAVE
High in the Lakeland fells, hidden far from the eyes of mere Wainwright baggers, is a ‘secret’ cave. So secret I’ve known about it for at least 15 years. So secret most people with a few years’ hillwalking experience know about it. So secret it has a visitors’ book, a stove and a legendary hidden door. For this is no secret. This is the Langstrath cave. WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHS TOM BAILEY
NOVEMBER 2017 TRAIL 49
A
fter finishing work and packing one of those spontaneous adventure rucksacks, I started on my way from Stonethwaite with the cave at the base of Cam Crag as my night’s abode and objective. That is, if I could find it. For although it’s the worst-kept secret in the Lakes, it’s still hard to find. At this point perhaps I should mention the fact that I have history with it. Twelve years ago my partner and I tried to find it with no success. We spent two nights wild camping high on Woof Stones, sure we were close. And close we were, for a year or two ago a friend showed me its location. All made sense – before we had started searching too high, not thinking it would be closer to the base of the crag. I can’t let failure go – it eats away at me. So I had to return. Passing the Langstrath Country Inn I stopped, stock-still, brain ticking at an unusually active rate; I could have a beer, I’m not driving anywhere, it’s a long night on my own in the dark, the least I deserve is a pre-cave pint. It was this beer that provoked my brain to fixate on the other possible inhabitants of tonight’s abode – cave spiders. Nothing else in Britain freaks me out like one of these photophobic f*****s. I’ve been in close proximity to them, largely unknown in Britain’s hall of natural nasties (they bite!), several times. Each time they have been inches from my head on a cave ceiling. My hood always goes up at this point as the hairs on the back of my neck prickle. They are dark coloured and have sinisterly spiky legs.
Rossthwaite Beck, on the way up Borrowdale.
Living in dark places, cave spiders have developed an aversion to light. In stumbles one courageous adventurer, flashing light from Petzl’s latest offering, off scuttles one creepy-looking arachnid, out rockets one trembling wreck of an adventurer. This has been the usual way of things, hence why they were on my mind as I walked the few kilometres through Upper Borrowdale into that wonderfully remote valley of Langstrath. Spontaneous nights out are the best. This one was organised an hour before I set out, and I had given little thought to the fact that I might not actually be able to find the cave. Once in Langstrath, Cam Crag was all my eyes sought. It dominates the western flank of the valley. Near the base is an area known as Woof Stones and this, I remembered remembered, was the key to relocating the cave.
Feeling physically great after the pint, I pushed up the side of the valley, legs steady, relishing the burn. Letting the instinct in my memory be the guide, several possible places were passed but I didn’t stop to search, wanting to go straight to it. Some hope after only ever visiting it once in the rain and the mist... One thing I did recall was the fact that the entrance to the cave had a kind of courtyard of its own. So heading for a jumble of boulders in front of the crag I hardly expected to find it at the first try – but blow me down, there it was. The entrance neatly walled up and as tight as I remembered. You might think that having found it I would have been straight in to check it out but, no, not me – I hadn’t had any dinner yet. So, coolly unpacking the night’s rations I brewed up, munching, slurping and worrying; cave spiders! When I could find nothing else to distract me from the task of actually going into the cave and getting it ready � Woof Stones at the base of Cam Crag.
50 TRAIL NOVEMBER 2017
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The ‘door’needs unblocking before you can enter...
...the excitement is palpable!
The entrance has its own ‘courtyard,’ the interior (above right) has every inch
FLPA / ALAMY
“THE STEEL DOOR WAS RUMOURED TO HAVE BEEN for the night, I strode up to it and started to ‘unblock’ the entrance as if I hadn’t a care in the world. Once open, it only took me 10 minutes to pluck up courage to poke my head in. This I did. Sweeping the beam of my headtorch through the cave, up to the all-important ceiling, and there, staring me in the face, was a sight I had longed to see – a clear, spider-free roof above my head. Relief was total. I collapsed onto my back and laughed to myself. What a wuss. Now this cave has a kind of mythical status. Let me tell you what I’ve heard over the years. Sometime back in the distant 1970s, a group of local chap chaps with shipbuilding expertise enlarge enlarged and fitted out a natural crevice bel below some rather large boulders. By fitt fitted out I mean ean they installed a stove w with its own flue, cupboards, raised ssleeping platforms and gas lighting – evi evidence of this is still there. Narrow brass ttubing proliferates. There is even a b back cave, a kind of storage area. The cave roof has been ch chiselled out to increase the height, the end w wall built into a proper wall, but best o of
52 TRAIL NOVEMBER 2017
all was the door. Now this really was a thing of legend. Apparently it consisted of a sheet of steel (still there) that was hinged with a secret catch that was operated by another catch some distance from the entrance. If this doesn’t sound far-fetched enough, the steel door was rumoured to have been faced with rock. The legend of this trapdoor will echo down the centuries. As far as I can gather, a good deal of dope smoking went on in there, which probably helped the story grow. It stayed as a closely guarded secret for a decade or two, before the truth, which was too good not to get out, seeped around every drinking hole and nd g gear ar shop in the Lakes, and maybe even further afield. field The reality today is not quite what hat it
was, but it is still something to search out. The door no longer hangs on it’s hinges so, on leaving, people tend to prop it up then pile rocks in front of it, almost in homage to the legend. The stonework is in good order. There is an inevitable collection of overnight detritus: sleeping mats, children’s books, once even a Bin Laden mask (Google it!), a recorder, tins, plastic, gas bottles and so on. In the next millennia, archaeologists will sift through the cave floor and try to understand us. Of course, there is the obligatory visitors’ book (or should I say books) housed in a red ammunition box. The contents range from surreal, to comic, to pretentious, to boring, to just plain idiotic. I have a habit of never filling in these things, preferring to drift through h the country like a ghost. Ghost, did somebody ebody mention the ‘G’ word? Cave e spiders are shiny satin black to reddish brown in colour, our, often having a different coloured rear body which varies from black, brown or even olivegreen. een. They are one of the largest spiders found in the UK, with adults reaching roughly a 5cm leg span and 15mm body length.
WILD NIGHTS
used to maximum effect.
FACED WITH ROCK.Ó Only kidding; during the whole night I never felt scared. It being early June I closed my eyes with light still in the sky, illuminating the mouth of the cave, and awoke to the same. I lay for a long time once I had a brew in hand, looking at the immediate surroundings. The craftsmanship of the cave reminded me very much of the inside of a boat – apt when you consider that the men who made this worked in the shipyards. Every inch of space was used. What a retreat this must have been from the rubbish 1970s/80s. All the more alluring for being a secret. I breakfasted outside. After the stillness of the cave, the air whirled from every direction, or felt that way; there was only a light breeze blowing. The world was larger, horizons wider. Something silent, small and brown flicked through my peripheral vision. I slowly turned my head. A mouse sits three feet away. Not once did I hear or see any in the cave overnight, but there in the courtyard they abounded; another one caught my eye. Back inside for the last time, I got to thinking; what kind of
place is this where the mice would rather be outside than inside with the juicy crumbs? Maybe there’s a malevolent presence within its rocky abode. I didn’t feel it. Or perhaps I’d been in that dope-saturated den for too long. Maybe, just maybe, I was a little stoned, as I did wake thinking clear and pleasant thoughts which wasn’t like me at all! Time to go. Walking in the rain for an hour back to the car brought me back to reality, though. The cave at Woof Stones below Cam Crag on the west side of the Langstrath valley is no secret now. Good secrets never stay secret. Vandalised over the years by the kind of idiots you get in all walks of life, it still has an eccentric charm. Some think it should remain the domain of the chosen few, and some will hate me for writing this. But the time of secrecy is over, now is the time for all to share the wonder of this place. You still have to find it, though, and this will be the saving grace of the place. Resist the temptation to Google the grid reference: have something to quest for. Just keep an eye out for those cave spiders! T
Wild Rating ★★★ GETTING HERE > The cave is located in the Langstrath valley (Lake District). The nearest parking point is at Stonethwaite NY262136. It takes an hour to get to the cave, walking is the only real option. STAYING OVER > The cave is free. Access to it relies on all users treating it, and the surrounding areas, with respect: no open fires or litter. Because the cave is small make sure you take along a bivvy bag or tent just in case it’s full; weekends are much more likely to be busy. It’s close enough to civilisation to walk back out again if it can’t be found. WHAT’S NEARBY > Cam Crag NY260111 has a fantastic Grade 1 scramble up it. Heading up the obvious worn line on the crag, it starts maybe only 100m from the cave. This gets you onto Rosthwaite Fell NY256118. From here you can choose whether to head up over Glaramara NY246104, or simply head back down to Stonethwaite.
NOVEMBER 2017 TRAIL 53
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Q&A
SKILLS, TIPS & TRICKS FROM THE SHARPEST OUTDOOR MINDS
H I L L H AC K O F T H E M O N T H
Graham Thompson GT – Trail’s technical editor for over 25 years – is our walking gear guru.
Lyle Brotherton Navigation expert Lyle is co-founder of the Ultimate Navigation School.
Rob Johnson MIC TOM BAILEY
Rob is an international expedition leader and mountain instructor.
Whoops, my bootlaces have bust! Jeremy Ashcroft Trail’s mountaineering editor Jeremy has a lifetime of outdoors experience.
Q
There’s nothing more annoying than having your bootlaces snap when out and about on the hill. It’s so easy to forget to buy and pack spare ones, so is there anything else I can use instead? Jo Leftley, Preston Trail says Pack some zip ties – now. The reason
to carry these is that they weigh nothing and have a hundred uses on the hill, from securing busted rucksack straps and tent doors, to being used as a makeshift tourniquet. They are also extremely handy as emergency bootlaces. Stuff a handful into your first aid kit first chance you get, along with a penknife for, er, ‘undoing’ them when you’ve finished.
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@trailmagazine NOVEMBER 2017 TRAIL 55
I’ve got a barometer on my watch. How can it help me? One of the key functions of my fancy watch is a barometer. I know it has something to do with the weather and altitude but, technical jargon aside, is it of any real use to a walker? Dean W, via email
Q
Jeremy says The barometer and altimeter are generally linked to one common air pressure sensor, from which each function delivers independent data. As you ascend or descend, air pressure varies; it’s this variation that gives an indication of your altitude. Air pressure also changes with varying climatic conditions as air masses move within the atmosphere. For accurate interpretations it’s vital you calibrate the air pressure sensor frequently, and do this at locations where you know your specific height, such as a summit, col or valley base. The altimeter is a handy tool for navigation, but the barometer can play a key role, too. By monitoring its readings, particularly in graph form, you can see the air pressure trend. This, alongside observations of temperature and wind speed, and direction will give you a good idea of what the weather will do. Falling air pressure indicates deteriorating and unsettled weather, while rising pressure is indicative of improving and settled conditions. To get a clear trend graph you need to be at one location for a reasonable amount of time, so the barometer is most useful for overnight observations.
HOW CAN I I’ve got a big challenge coming up in October and I’m worried I’m not fit enough. What’s the best exercise to stay hill fit off the hill?? Joe Eggerton, Maidstone
Q
Trail says The best exercise for walking is walking. In terms of strength, you need to keep your core strong, as well as your thighs, calves, knees and ankles. Lunges and squats are excellent one-stop exercises for building lower body strength, and you can work up to doing it while wearing a packed rucksack.
KNOW HOW TOO EMBARRASSED TO ASK?
N
Just how hard is the Adam and Eve jump?
Trail says The question of the infamous leap between Welsh cracker Tryfan’s summit pinnacles is something we get asked as about a lot. So the last time we were up there, we w took the liberty of doing some measurements so s that when you get to the top of Tryfan, you have an a idea of what to expect. ■ The leap itself is 130cm 130c (4ft) – which sounds a lot, ot, but is really just long lo enough to be thoughtful. It’s the equivalent equiv of a very long stride for or most people – a stride s just too long to remain emain balanced while doing iit. ■ The blocks themselves are about the sizes of a large coffee table and 93 cm 15 6cm a small coffee table. ■ There is a slight northern tilt to both blocks, although it’s more pronounced on the smaller (northern) pillar. Again, not hard to deal with but may jingle your nerves a little. ■ The open situation of the blocks is the aspect likely to affect
you the most. They are perched at the eastern edge of Tryfan’s summit area, with one side rocky but unexposed, the other very close to the east face – so one side of the leap, whichever way you do it, will feel quite exposed, and lacking anywhere to tumble to if anything goes awry. ■ Wind might make you skittish; you will perceive a south-westerly blowing you towards the drop.
Low-impact cardiovascular workouts like swimming are perfect for stamina and total body conditioning, while taking regular brisk walks, including a bit of ascent with a rucksack, can help keep your core in shape. Also, go for rough walks in your hill boots to keep your feet in condition. Avoid tarmac with stiff boots – this can cause its own problems. Why not sign up to our #Everestanywhere challenge? It‘s a great way to stay in shape when you can’t get to the hills (page 76).
ADAM
10 0cm
m 66 cm
33cm
117cm
156cm
At the end of the day, if you’re not feeling itt or have any kind of spatial awareness issues, es, don’t do it as you’re more likely to o hesitate and trip if you’re nervous.. And even if your fall isn’t really bad, ad, you don’t want a broken ankle e or a dislocated shoulder on the summit ummit of Tryfan.
9 3 cm
130cm
3 0 cm
100cm
m 113cm
EVE 66cm
102cm
300cm
ADAM
STAY HILL FIT?
82cm
EVE
What’s an easy flavour kit?
Q
Is there anything y g light l g I can take with me to make camp food a bit more, er, interesting? Maria Relf, via email
Trail says Chilli flakes, oregano, sea salt, black pepper and a small bottle of Tabasco are all perfect flavour enliveners. Decant the ingredients into small, lightweight bottles, so you can mix and match seasoning. We find the travel toiletry bottles available in Boots or similar are perfect for this job.
BEN WEEKS
Q
I’ll be climbing Tryfan soon for the first time. One thing I’m always wondering about it whether I could do the leap between Adam and Eve. I’ve seen a zillion pictures of it but still have no idea how hard it is. Michael Wheat, via email
TRAIL MASTERCLASS
What do I need to know about bothies? Q
I’m going bothying mg g tto tryy b y g tthis autumn. What’s the deal with them? Sandra Dack, Trowbridge
Spending a night in a bothy is a simple pleasure. Holiday cottages they are not; these shelters – numbering around a hundred – are mostly in Scotland but also found in England and Wales, are often little more than stone sheds. But under the management and maintenance of the Mountain Bothies Association (MBA) they have been turned into gems in the landscape that offer protection from the elements and distance from the modern world. And best of all, they’re free to use. This is due to the goodwill of the landowners these buildings belong to, but also due to the selfless hard work of the MBA and its volunteers. All they ask for in return is a little respect; respect for the bothies and the environment they’re found in. It’s hardly a big request, but these expectations are laid out in ‘The Bothy Code’, a set of guidelines that help you get the best from your bothying experience while ensuring the buildings and their surroundings are protected for future users.
58 TRAIL NOVEMBER 2017
KNOW HOW
Respect other users
THE BOTHY CODE
Ensure the bothy is left as clean and tidy as you would wish to find it, including replenishing kindling and wood for the fire. Some bothies are regularly re-stocked by the landowners, but in general you’ll need to carry in your own fuel, and if you use what’s there, replace it. Either way, it’s good practice to use fuel sparingly.
Respect the bothy Bin men tend not to call at bothies so you should take all rubbish and unused food out with you; if you managed to carry it in, you can carry it out. It goes without saying that wanton vandalism or graffiti is not on, but you should also take every measure to prevent any accidental damage. Ensure the fire is out and all doors and windows are firmly closed when you leave. Should you discover any damage, whether of your making or not, you should notify the MBA. For more information on bothies and the work of the MBA visit www.mountainbothies.org.uk
Respect the surroundings
Part of the appeal of bothies is their location, and this should be cared for too. Bothy toilets tend to be of the DIY variety: Dig It Yourself (a spade is usually provided). All human waste should be buried away from the bothy, out of sight, and some distance from any water sources. But don’t bury rubbish – that should be carried out (see ‘Respect the bothy’ left). Under no circumstances should you cut live wood for fuel or damage estate property for firewood.
Respect the agreement with the estate The success of the bothying arrangement relies on goodwill between the owners and users, so abide by any restrictions. A bothy may be unavailable during deer stalking or lambing seasons, for instance. It’s also worth noting that bothies are intended for short stays of one or two nights at any time of year. Users wanting to stay longer should seek advance permission from the owner.
Respect the restriction on numbers Bothies are not hostels. To avoid overcrowding and excessive pressure on limited facilities, groups of six or more should not use a bothy without the owner’s advance permission. Should you find a bothy full, it’s usually acceptable to camp in the vicinity (a good reason to always take a bivvy or tent bothying) but large groups are not permitted. Commercial groups are forbidden from staying in bothies or camping outside.
The Kearvaig Bothy on Cape Wrath offers stunning coastal scenery. TOM BAILEY
NOVEMBER 2017 TRAIL 59
What do scrambling grades really Q
I’m getting to grips with scrambling and trying to find my level. But everyone I speak to seems to have different ideas about grades. Is there an ‘official’ definition of grades 1, 2 and 3 I should know about? Steve Potter, Peterborough Scrambling grades are a valuable means of judging whether your ability matches the route you’re attempting. They were first employed in Steve Ashton’s (newly revised) Scrambles in Snowdonia guidebook, and have since been refined and applied to scrambling routes across the British Isles. As scrambling can carry considerable risk, it’s important to understand what the grades mean. Don’t forget these can be subjective as every route is different – and so is every scrambler. Never climb up anything you can’t comfortably climb down again, and vice versa if the route is in descent.
GRADE 1
This grade denotes routes that require no special mountaineering skills and which are within the capability of any adventurous
Scrambling is a great skill to have. Just make sure you only tackle the grades your’re ready for. And if there’s any danger of rockfall – from the face or climbers above you – wear a helmet.
hillwalker with experience and a head for heights. They are unlikely to require roped protection and may be considered for descent or during doubtful weather.
GRADE 2
Much more serious. Includes difficult ridges and gullies, and the easier face routes. You may have to wait for optimum weather conditions, and even then difficulties that require roped protection may be encountered. Grade 2 routes often involve short passages of Moderate grade rock climbing. A wide experience of scrambling, or a background in mountaineering is essential. Such routes are rarely suitable for descent. Note also that a Grade 2 climbed unroped may be more dangerous than a Grade 3 climbed with roped protection.
GRADE 3
These routes have the attributes of Grade 2 scrambles but with the additional complication of one or more short ‘pitches’ of simple rock climbing, often up to Difficult standard, on which roped protection is usual. Someone whose background is
limited to hillwalking and scrambling will need to acquire knowledge of basic rope techniques before attempting these routes – in particular the ability to select belay anchors, fix running belays, and in the event of a forced retreat, abseil.
Other ratings Star ratings usually indicate the quality of the route, either in terms of interest or prestige. Typically they run from one to three. Sometimes you see the denotation ‘S’ after Grade 3. Grade 3S scrambles are essentially severe examples of Grade 3 scrambles with particularly sustained sections of difficulty, bad rock or exposure; more a decree of danger than difficulty. Plus (+) or minus (-) symbols are a common feature in modern guidebooks and a plus or minus after the grade suggests a particularly easy or hard example. n Grades extracted from Scrambles in Snowdonia (Revised Edition) by Steve Ashton, Rachel Crolla and Carl McKeating, pb Cicerone
KNOW HOW
mean?
SPOT THE DIFFERENCE!
1:25k v 1:50k differences I’ve noticed some OS map symbols change between 1:25,000 scale sheets and 1:50,000 sheets – it’s annoying! I‘ve started using the OS Maps app and frequently switch scales – as there‘s no ’digital’ map legend, what‘s different? Di Parker, via email
Q
OS Explorer (1:25,000) O
OS Landranger (1:50,000) Access land
National park boundary
National Trail Route with public access Footpath Bridleway Path
T R A I L C R I B C A R D™
RAPTOR IDENTIFICATION Autumn is great for bird-spotting. But do you know your peregrine from your pigeon, or a raven from a raptor?
HOW OLD DO I HAVE TO BE TO TAKE THE MOUNTAIN LEADER ASSESSMENT?
R
Q
W White Tailed Eagle
Golden Eagle Trail reader for scale
A 18
Sparrowhawk Kestrel Raven
Peregrine
NOVEMBER 2017 TRAIL 61
WITH THANKS TO BIRD WATCHING MAGAZINE
E
✁
N
Buzzard Hen Harrier
E
O
WOR D A N S
OUT WITH AN EXPERT: ICE CLIMBING
62 TRAIL NOVEMBER 2017
ICE COOL SKILLS
Escaping a wet weather day on the West Highland Way. Honing skills for the coming winter. Ticking off an ambition. Just three reasons to give ice climbing a go...
Our expert: Mike Mason An ice climbing instructor at Ice Factor Kinlochleven, Mike’s climbing started in his local Ravenswick Quarry in North Yorkshire and progressed to summer and winter routes all over Europe, Russia and Oman.
WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHS BEN WEEKS
NOVEMBER 2017 TRAIL 63
Good footwork is the key to ice climbing efficiently.
W
e’re standing in a giant freezer. Around us, some 500 tonnes of frozen water coats walls reaching 12 metres from a powdery, shattered-ice covered floor to a metal ceiling from which hangs industrialscale refrigeration units. Through the windows, T-shirted spectators peer in from outside. Inside, four of us in warm winter layers shuffle from foot to foot to keep warm in the sub-zero temperature, while a fifth gestures with a sharp piece of metal at dangling ropes. We’ve only just met him, but he looks like he means business with that axe... We’re in Kinlochleven, a small village at the eastern end of Loch Leven. It’s the penultimate stop on the West Highland Way and a key destination for outdoorloving visitors, due to the high, wild mountains of the Mamores to the north and Glen Coe to the south. In 2003, a building which had formally housed an aluminium smelter in the village was given a new lease of life when it opened its doors as Ice Factor – currently the largest indoor ice climbing arena in the world. If you want to try climbing vertical walls of ice in the safest, most convenient way, y, there t is no betterr place. p
64 TRAIL NOVEMBER 2017
"SOME 500 TONNES OF FROZEN WATER COATS WALLS REACHING 12 METRES" The chap brandishing the axe is Mike, our ice climbing instructor for the next two-and-a-half hours.
FOOTWORK
As with any kind of climbing, footwork is of the utmost importance. Mike demonstrates how to use the front points of the crampons to stand on tiny ledges and protrusions. The plan is simple: hook one foot onto the ice, then bring the other up while leaning into the wall with your groin thrust against the cold hardness of the ice. In practice, it takes a few goes to get right, and is made harder by the fact that we’ve not yet been equipped with axes. Instead, it’s about stiff ankles, widely spaced feet and good balance. Sometimes it proves necessary y to t ‘kick in’ to the ice with the
front two points of the crampons. Here, Mike explains, it’s again key to keep your ankles stiff. If our heels get too high, the front points will ping out of the ice and we’ll come off the wall. We listen attentively before practising our technique a few more times at low level.
MONO-AXING
Happy with how we’re using our feet, Mike gives each of us a single axe. This is unexpected. Or rather, a second axe is expected, but not yet forthcoming. Still just a foot off the ground, we’re shown how to place the pick of the axe, utilising the natural pockets and hollows in the ice for maximum grip. A practiced hand can make a task look simple, and Mike deftly places the pick precisely where he wants it with a flick of the wrist. When it comes to our turn, frozen spray erupts from the wall as we hack into the ice with our axes. After a little fine-tuning we’re better, but still a long way from the effortless grace of Mike. Still, we’re good enough to practise, taking to the lower level of the wall again to combine the balanced footwork with a single axe.
TWIN AXES
We’re handed our second axe and, with h growing g g excitement, e , tie t into the
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end of ropes leading up a shortened wall. Mike demonstrates first before we take to the wall in pairs to try it ourselves. It transpires that the ideal position for ice climbing is akin to an inverted ‘Y’ – feet a little over shoulder width apart and hands directly above the head. The motion goes a little like this:
1 2 3 4 5
Both axes are stuck into the ice above our heads and next to each other.
We use them to support us and keep us on the wall once one foot is moved higher. One axe is withdrawn and placed further up the wall. The second axe is withdrawn and brought level to the first. Repeat the above from step 2 until you reach the top.
Before we begin our climbs, Mike offers two excellent pieces of advice. Firstly, “To avoid bloody noses or split lips, keep your head out of the way when tugging a stuck axe from the ice.” And secondly, “Try not to hit the rope with your pick.”
EFFICIENCY Our technique so far has been somewhat crude. It’s time to polish it. “Swinging axes and kicking crampons Whatever your level of climbing experience, you’ll find an indoor ice soon becomes tiring, so climbing session equips you with essential skills and confidence on the hill. it’s important to make your movement as efficient as and both axes possible,” Mike explains. We’re secure in the ice There’s enough time to squeeze in a final told to try to make our crampon and attached by a climb of our choice, so we head straight and pick placements as accurate as leash to the rope, each for another corner route, blitzing up and we can, to avoid tiring ourselves and arm can be lowered one at a time and down it with new-found ice confidence. weakening the ice. Mike then demonstrates shaken, before continuing the route with Then we untie, hand axes back, leave the how modifying our movements will reduce slightly reinvigorated limbs. freezer and re-enter a world that suddenly energy expended as he shows us a new, feels especially warm and humid. Ice more efficient way to climb: So far all our climbing has been on steep climbing is hard work, but a lot of fun Both axes are stuck into the ice above our but ‘flat’ walls. But what happens if you and very cool – literally and figuratively. heads, but one higher than the other. find yourself climbing a chute or corner? Even if you’re a walker who hibernates Our feet are brought together and we take Key among the skills we’ve learned is over winter, waiting for the warmth of small steps up the wall until the lower keeping feet perpendicular to the ice so spring before returning to the hills, indoor axe is roughly level with our shoulders. the front points of the crampons obtain ice climbing is worth checking out purely Our feet are placed out wide again so that the best purchase. As Mike explains, as something new to try. But has Trail we are correctly balanced. this still applies when climbing a corner, learned anything that will help our frozen The lower axe is withdrawn and placed a chute or a chimney, so it’s necessary to mountain adventures? Well, we’ll probably roughly in-line with its previous rotate our feet outwards when kicking in. not be heading onto anything that vertical position but above upper axe. Climbing with feet turned out like – not deliberately. But the importance of Repeat the above from step 2 until a duck takes some getting used to; it crampon and axe skills is a transferable you reach the top. doesn’t feel like a natural position. But toolset that will no doubt see us feeling This staggering of the axes reduces the by the halfway mark we’re getting into it more confident and, more importantly, number of placements required on a route, and actually find the curved chute we’re safer on the hill this winter. T conserving energy. We try this out on climbing more comfortable as we bridge the full height section of the freezer, but across the gap with our feet. There’s no > For more information on ice climbing and it still proves tiring work, giving us the resting or shaking out this time we’re other activities at Ice Factor Kinlochleven, opportunity to practise the rest positions straight to the top. including indoor rock climbing and outdoor aerial adventure, go to www.ice-factor.co.uk that Mike had shown us. With feet apart We’re feeling good.
DEFROSTING
CHUTES & CORNERS
1 2
3 4 5
66 TRAIL NOVEMBER 2017
COMPETITION
This is your chance to win a trip to visit one of the most adventure-rich countries in the world – and see its ancient city of Petra and iconic Treasury. the Siq you will catch your first glimpse of Al Khazneh, also known as the Treasury. Tim Greening, founder of KE Adventure Travel, visited Petra in May 2017 and said at the time: “Although I’ve visited before, Petra never disappoints. The immensity of the site is not well known – we walked 25 dramatic kilometres today on the last day of our popular Dana to Petra trekking holiday. I doubt more than 500 tourists entered that day; it used to have 6-7,000 daily, so this is the time to explore this World Heritage Site. The trinket sellers are having a hard time but still smiling, and taxi drivers are grateful for any business.” On KE’s holiday, trekkers enter the Petra through the ‘back door’ to avoid the crowds. They then exit and re-enter via the Siq with its famous view of the Treasury and enjoy a day’s guided tour. n View the itinerary here: www. keadventure.com, search trip code; JDP. Petra is visited on days 6 & 7.
ENTER NOW! Competition to win one place on KE Adventure Travel’s Jordan Dana to Petra Trekking holiday. Holiday details Sat 17 – Sat 24 November 2018. Prize includes return flights from London Heathrow to Amman International Airport travelling with Royal Jordanian Airlines. To enter, simply answer this question: Which Indiana Jones film features the famous Treasury at Petra? TERMS AND CONDITIONS APPLY.
Enter at www.keadventure.com/ competitions Competition closes 30 November 2017. The winner will be announced in KE Adventure Travel's January KEnewsletter, subscribe at www.keadventure.com
KE ADVENTURE
J
ordan’s ‘Lost City’ – carved into vibrant red, white, pink, and sandstone cliff faces – still has many secrets to reveal. Thousands of years ago, it was thriving, but then the prehistoric Jordanian city of Petra was ‘lost’ to the Western world for hundreds of years. The trekking route from Dana to Petra is now part of the ‘Jordan Trail’ which was launched in March 2017. Spanning 647km (402 miles)) from Umm Qais in the north to the Red Sea in the south, the Dana to Petra section is probably the most beautiful and best of all. The ‘Rose City’, a world wonder, is without a doubt Jordan’s most valuable treasure and greatest tourist attraction. It is a vast, unique city, carved into the sheer rock face by the Nabataeans, its industrious founders. Entrance to the city is traditionally through the Siq, a narrow gorge over 1km in length, flanked on either side by soaring 80m-high cliffs. The colours and formations of the Siq rocks are dazzling, and as you reach the end of
Which Indiana Jones film features the famous Treasury at Petra?
NOVEMBER 2017 TRAIL 67
ALAMY
VISITJORDAN.COM
Win a once-in-a-lifetime trek to Jordan’s iconic Petra, worth £1,589!
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SPECIAL FORCES NAVIGATION
INSIDER KNOWLEDGE
70 TRAIL NOVEMBER 2017
Discover how you can use techniques used by Special Forces to enhance your WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHS TOM BAILEY
safety on the hill and be aware of sensory experiences you might have otherwise missed. �
NOVEMBER 2017 TRAIL 71
An F15 on exercise over the Lakes adds a little theatre-of-combat realism...
Observation is key – and not just what is right in front of you.
Navigation precision: map and compass still have their place.
Plans are visualised using whatever is available.
“THEY THEY LISTEN OUT FOR NATURAL SOUNDS – A RIVER,
A
n air-splitting roar and the morning has been violated. Five men sink to one knee; “C’mon boys, I want the aircraft type, time and vector, this is vital intel.” For trainee Special Forces troops, four F-15s putting in an unexpected appearance is a nerve-straining experience these guys need to be well equipped for. We’re on patrol, not four hundred miles behind enemy lines but just north of Thirlmere in the Lake District. This is a Special Forces Advanced Navigation Course. Run by the co-founder of The Ultimate Navigation School (UNS), Lyle Brotherton, Special Forces (SF) represent the sharp end of the charity’s repertoire. From Brownies to Scouts, from walkers to Mountain Rescue teams to SF aspirants, Lyles’s school can train them all. For those of you that don’t know, the SF (SAS, SBS, SRS) are a secretive, highly skilled element
72 TRAIL NOVEMBER 2017
Enhancing sounds using your hands as amplifiers: simple, but it works.
of the armed forces, arguably the best of the best. Their work is rarely known about outside the confines of their own elite few. Fit, quiet (mostly!), serious, dedicated and mature for their years, these are the typical ingredients that go into any SF combatant. Few pass the rigorous testing process, and those that do then know they have a great deal to live up to. In this world of satellites it might surprise you to know that traditional map and compass navigation has a place in the SF. What is even more surprising is that a large number of SF aspirants (soldiers on the SF selection course) fail selection because of a navigational error. Hence the need for these training courses. When operating deep behind enemy lines the use of a GPS device would be traceable, with obvious consequences, therefore a reliance on map and compass is needed. (Any of you out there who have done the Fan Dance event and think you would’ve made the SAS had you been in the
NAVIGATING WITH SPECIAL FORCES
Don‘t just map-read: anticipate what the landscape will look like from that map.
This may be the Lake District but it can double for anywhere when training.
Special Forces: “Fitness is important, but the right kind of brain even more so.”
“Few SF applicants pass the rigorous testing process.”
ANIMAL ALARM CALLS – AND SCENT PLAYS A PART.” Forces, think again. Fitness is important, but the right kind of brain even more so.) The first surprise is that the navigation I’m learning over the next couple of days is the same navigation I’ve been learning and using for the past 20 years. The second surprise is how that information is used. It spills over into everything they do. A route map is issued. We commit as much of this as possible to memory before starting, anticipating what the landscape is going to look like from the map. Moving off in a patrol, in this case ‘The Nail’ ( because it looks like one). Normally made up of four to five men with the navigator up front, while the ‘tail-end Charlies’ keep up the rear (in action they would be armed with a belt-fed machine gun, ideal for putting down defensive fire if the patrol got ‘bumped’). Each of the group has a 90 degree arc of fire so that the commander is protected from all sides.
Using land features can be as useful for concealed observations as it can be for shelter.
They move short distances, or legs, pausing regularly to look and listen, to read the track ahead. The boys take it in turns to sample the responsibility of navigating and leading four other men, his mates, deep into enemy territory. Remember, this navigation could be you and your friends on any hill day; someone assumes the role of map man and leads the others on. Would you think I was being overly dramatic if I said that this was still a matter of life or death? Most Mountain Rescue call-outs are due primarily to a wrong navigational decision. Plastic-coated maps and wax pencils are repeatedly used to create an annotated picture of the situation. This is something I’ve rarely done. From now on I’m a convert: marking your last known position, noting down a grid reference – this is helpful information all of us with a desire to get the most out of our navigation should be using. Sighting compasses are new to me. So is working
NOVEMBER 2017 TRAIL 73
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“I’M WEAVING ABOUT THE PATROL TAKING PHOTOS WHEN THE NAVIGATOR DROPS TO THE FLOOR – ‘SHOT AND KILLED’.” in mils instead of degrees on the compass bezel. Greater accuracy is the obvious advantage and, again, my tool box of navigational skills is added to. During the patrol different things ‘happen’. The first is the most shocking. I’m weaving about the patrol taking photos when the navigator drops to the floor – ‘shot and killed’ (Lyle and the chap whose turn it was to navigate had clearly prearranged this). A hand signal ripples through the formation and they instantly crouch down into defensive positions while the patrol leader decides what to do. Navigationally they prepare for this by all paying attention to exactly where they are and where they’ve been. That way anyone one of them can seamlessly lead them on or back, or even to engage the ‘threat’ depending upon the circumstances of the ambush. Role play over, the ‘sniped’ navigator rejoins the patrol with someone else at ‘point’. Hyper-vigilance is the key to patrolling. This is something that can be used by any of us to improve our experience of a day in the mountains. In the context of the patrol the senses;
74 TRAIL NOVEMBER 2017
sight, sound and smell are the source of ‘intel’. The SF guys are wired to listen for other soldiers, aircraft and vehicles, along with birds and animals disturbed by human activity. They listen out for natural sounds – a river, animal alarm calls – and scent even plays a part. Do it next time you’re in the hills, be aware of as much as you can. It might just surprise you how much there is to be aware of that we are normally ‘closed’ to. Later, out on the open fellside, ‘hostiles’ are seen (there is no one there really!). The patrol takes up defensive positions. A recce is made. Backpack off so as not to increase his body size against a horizon, the navigator crawls up to the brow of the hill, keeping hidden for as long as possible. Concealed among bracken, looking for as much intel as possible, the
Everything can be used as a tool: from twigs to ditches.
NAVIGATING WITH SPECIAL FORCES
Unexpected events, changes of plan – all can have transferable skills, whether caused by a sudden storm or an enemy attack. Below: The Ultimate Navigation School’s Lyle Brotherton.
number of enemy being the primary one. He reads the landscape navigationally: can he see everything? Is there a better place to observe from? If they attack, what is their defensive position and where is their escape route? Using cover (terrain association), how do they split the patrol if necessary, using the landscape to their advantage? Do they avoid the hostiles completely? Can they ‘box’ around them, using natural features to cover their progress? So much detail is taken in. I listen to the information being relayed to the patrol commander. What at first seems a simple situation, now feels fraught with choice and decision. This is the sharp end. This is where navigation and tactics marry. This is what makes the Special Forces special. Five highly trained individuals acting as one, going anywhere, doing anything. Unstoppable. Needless to say the plan is cunning and works a treat. All hostiles mopped up we move on, ever on, ever watchful. Even the trip to the pub that evening proved to be an exercise in night navigation. The use of a headtorch with a green filter and low-intensity brightness was something of a revelation, with the dim green light helping to retain night vision. The real gem, though, is what the light does to a map. The features become hyper-real and contour lines jump out with a clarity that daylight doesn’t match. The next morning things take on a gnarly form as we have a guest. Mother Nature. Rain, in all forms: fat, thin, large, small, but above all wet, falls with a predictable Lakeland ferocity. Apparently these are perfect SF patrolling conditions, apart from it being daylight (they work mostly at night), because bad weather adds to the element of surprise. So today I see the SF do what they do best, going about their task with
SPECIAL FORCES AND THE UNS The UKSF (United Kingdom Special Forces) are an elite category of men and women, from our armed forces, who perform specialist covert operations from counterterrorism and global reconnaissance to hostage rescue and unconventional warfare. The three principal regiments are: SAS - Special Air Service SBS - Special Boats Service SRR - Special Reconnaissance Regiment The fully accredited Ultimate Navigation School trains these professionals – but it can also train you, using the same calibre of expertise. Visit the website www.ultimatenavigationschool.co.uk and see what courses are on offer.
the utmost professionalism as if the cold and the rain were but a trivial inconvenience. The shape of the land is about the only thing that won’t change in a time of war. For this reason navigating by contour lines is a critical skill for these guys to learn. Once you get your eye in, this becomes a fluid, efficient way to navigate. It’s practised repeatedly until it’s second nature. Having spent two days working closely with these dedicated few, one image imprinted upon my mind. Crouched in a wet ditch, hoods up, heads down, maps in hand, silent, earnest, determined and, above all, navigating. This moment could have been from 1917 not 2017, and it sums up my view of these guys. Out of the limelight but always in the forefront of the action, they’ll never tell their stories, but I can tell you this: navigation underpins everything; they know it and – now – I know it. T
NOVEMBER 2017 TRAIL 75
#EVERESTANYWHERE
WIN MARMOT KIT W WORTH £710! A
s part of Trail’s mega 2017 #EverestAnywhe #EverestAnywhere challenge Marmot is o offering a fantastic antastic tent, sleeping bag a and rucksack worth £710 to the w winner of the he Great British Marmot H Hunt! All you have to to be in the d draw is find one of our #EverestAny #EverestAnywhere Marmot Marv mascots that w we released into the hills of Britai Britain. The bid to find one will help get yo you out and about, aim high and have a little (lot of!) extra fun while conqu conquering the height of Everest. If you find o one, he’s yours to keep and you’ll tthen be entered into a free prize draw tto win this über-cool Marmot kit. Only #EverestAnywhere challengers have access to the cclues of where to find them, but ma marmothunting season closes on 3 No November, so be quick and get looking! It w works a bit like a geocache: two new cclues will be released every week to h help you identify the hidden locatio locations. n For clues to find your own m marmot, sign up to the #EverestAnywh #EverestAnywhere challenge at www.livefortheou www.livefortheoutdoors. com/everestanywhere
Marmot Alvar two-person, fast-pitch backpacking tent worth £320
Marmot Graviton 38-litre rucksack worth £170 3-Season Marmot Palisade sleeping bag worth £220
WA L L O F P R I D E We’ve been astounded by how many of you have been getting out and climbing higher than you ever thought possible. Many of you are on multiple Everests and we even have challengers in Canada and France! The stories of your hilly adventures are truly inspiring – and you can check out the photos and videos our Facebook group ‘Trail Everest Anywhere’, but here’s a little peek…
Kimberley Harrison and husband Simon completed their Trail #EverestAnywhere in style by conquering the Yorkshire Three Peaks.
76 TRAIL NOVEMBER 2017
Sophie Shaw marmot hunting in the Peaks with seven-year-old Edward and five-year-old Thomas.
David Guenot loving his #EverestAnywhere challenge in the French Pyrenees!
Morley Williams from New Zealand completed his #EverestAnywhere challenge in 66 days from June to August 2017. Here he is on Beinn Bhan.
Rebecca McCreadie says: “An excellent walk was had over High Spy, Maiden Moor and Cat Bells, with my daughter Emily and son Matthew.”
IN ASSOCIATION WITH
TEAM EVERE ST
Trail has challenged you to climb the height of Everest right here in the UK… but how will you climb yours? Clockwise from top left: Nichole, Naomi, Seanna, team leader Bex, Kate and Becki.
MEET BEX’S BAND OF GIRLS Adventurer Bex Band and her team of six intrepid women from all backgrounds and abilities are preparing to climb the height of Everest in just five days in the Lake District. Not content with her own adventures, Bex wanted to inspire more women into the outdoors and help them overcome any barriers that stood in their way. Having established her website and community – www.loveherwild.com – Bex decided to take on the #EverestAnywhere challenge and
show that adventures can also be had right here in beautiful Great Britain. Over 100 women from the Love Her Wild community applied to be part of the expedition that involves hiking over 60 miles, over 44 peaks. The final team of six are: Bex Band, Seanna Fallon, Naomi Simington, Nichole Young, Becki Read and Kate Owen. The women are also fundraising for Africa’s Children in Education (ACE) – visit www. acecharity.org for info about this charity.
Challengers Darren and Gail Bevan having done Striding Edge for the first time.
Kim Dominguez on her #EverestAnywhere challenge on Middle Sister (Charity), near Canmore in Alberta, Canada.
Kirsty Ann Ritson rescued Marmot Marv from a creepy burial ground on Loch Maree, Highlands.
Sign up and download trackers at www. livefortheoutdoors.com/ everestanywhere Join the community Facebook group ‘Trail Everest Anywhere’ Find a Marmot sign up to access clues for the Great British Marmot Hunt Feel the benefits walking uphill is one of the best exercises you can do! Reach your goal 8848 metres! Hit the next level how many Everests can you climb?
n Trail subscribers can access Trail Routes with pre-calculated total ascents online for free – see www.livefortheoutdoors.com/routes
NOVEMBER 2017 TRAIL 77
Is this the best job in the world?
Working every day in a beautiful wild place, National Park Rangers have a dream job. We meet up with Margaret Anderson, Northumberland Ranger of 11 years, to find out how it really is… How much land are you responsible for? Northumberland National Park (NNP) Rangers cover the 405sq miles of the park. We are a small team of six fulltime posts and, since my return from maternity leave in March, I do a jobshare, so we have a big patch to cover!
interaction and management, so we need to get the sites ready. The autumn and winter months are when we get the bulk of our work done – it’s not the best weather, but it means we are not getting in the way of the public, landowners or farmers during their busy season when we're working on rights of way.
How often are you outdoors? I’d say we are outside 80 per cent of the time... even on the wettest and coldest days – if there’s work to do then we are out there doing it!
“SITTING IN THE LOCAL PUB OR AT A SHOW LISTENING TO THE ‘CRAIC' OF THE LOCALS, THIS IS WHERE YOU GET THE TRUE ESSENCE OF NORTHUMBERLAND”
What moments make you think ‘this is the best job in the world’? On those moments of quiet, driving into work on a morning with a stunning sunrise, amazing clear skies and views for miles on end into the landscape of the Park, then I do think I have a pretty good start to the day! Tell us what a typical day looks like for you at different times of year. There are no typical days. But the spring is often spent preparing for the summer. The summer involves a lot of visitor
How do you keep your enjoyment levels up when the weather's bad? I’m a happy person most of the time, so the elements have to be pretty rough to really get me down. But even in the wettest and coldest of days, when you’re soggy literally to the pants, I know in
a few hours I will be home, dry, warm and with my family. I am very lucky to do a job I love, with great people, in a place I call home. What aspect of the job do you find most fulfilling and why? I really enjoy working with our student and work experience placements. I am really passionate about helping young people who want to do this sort of work as their career. I find it so rewarding to see them grow, gain experience and progress to hopefully get where they want to be. We’ve had some great people come through our Young Volunteer Ranger programme who have gone on to do wonderful things. The latest is a Newcastle University student who has secured a six-month internship with the RSPB. I am so proud of her! Have you always wanted to be a ranger? Actually, no. I didn’t really know what I wanted to do. I did all sorts before I came to NNP. Worked in pubs, retail, as a riflesmith... so what I always say to students is not to worry if they don't get the perfect job straight away. Look at the long-term, the organisation, the experience and keep an open mind.
YOU AND THE PARK Can you describe what makes Northumberland distinctive? The landscape is so incredible, on a clear day it just goes on forever. But the people and communities are what make it. NNP is so sparsely populated, under 2000 residents, but the small villages and farms are alive with local tradition and culture. Sitting in the local pub or at a show listening to the ‘craic' of the locals, this is where you get the true essence of Northumberland. What are the must-sees on a visiting hiker’s hit list, and why? 78 TRAIL ADVERTISEMENT FEATURE
INTERVIEW
MARGARET ANDERSON Job National Park Ranger Office Northumberland National Park
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www.blacks.co.uk/columbia
ADVERTISEMENT FEATURE TRAIL 79
The Cheviots, because the views on a clear day are the best. Also walking Hadrian’s Wall – you understand why the Romans built the wall where they did when you see how imposing it is. What’s the one place no one knows about but everyone should? I love The Black House at Catcleugh Reservoir. It’s an old workers’ hut from when they were building the dam, and is set up as it would have been when the workers lived there. I love it. My greatgrandfather farmed just down from it and used to deliver milk to the workers. What’s the most surprising thing you’ve seen while out working? Naked people! We’ve had naked walkers with very strategically placed maps. Out with a work group we stumbled upon a group of skinny dippers, not sure who was more surprised! A lot of people seem to like to get their kit off here, which is strange given the weather! What’s the one best way people can help look after the Park? Come and visit it. Stay local and eat local, because by doing so you will be helping the Northumberland's rural economy. Enjoy the area, appreciate it and the work, from so many different people, which goes into looking after it, and make sure you ‘take only photographs, leave only footprints’.
YOU AND YOUR FREE TIME What do you do outside of work? I’m a farmer’s daughter, so I love to be out on the farm. I’ve ridden horses all my life so getting out on horseback is a great way to enjoy the countryside. I’m also a big football fan and a season ticket holder for Newcastle United, so I’m there through the bad and good!
“A LOT OF PEOPLE SEEM TO LIKE TO GET THEIR KIT OFF HERE...”
You want to give a first-time visitor to Northumberland the best possible flavour of the Park. What’s your itinerary? Call in at The Sill: National Landscape Discovery Centre to get some inspiration first. Then head out for a short walk, maybe Hareshaw Linn near Bellingham. Grab some lunch at a pub. Then head further up north to the Coquet Valley. Have a tour up the valley then head back to Alwinton to the Rose & Thistle for a drink and some supper. It’s probably late by then, and you’ve had a drink so I’d say stop there too!
YOU AND YOUR GEAR What’s important in a Ranger’s working wardrobe? Tough waterproofs. And gloves you can work in; I hate cold hands! Talk us through your Columbia wardrobe both for work and for play. My Titan Trail trousers are great to work in as they’re
80 TRAIL ADVERTISEMENT FEATURE
comfy and flexible, while my Redmond Waterproof Low trainers, which I did the photo shoot in, are my go-to footwear for work and pleasure . I recently had to run into a puddle, quite a large one, and my feet stayed dry. This would not have happened in my previous ones! Which item of kit could you not do without? Waterproof leggings... I always seem to get filthy, even in the dry, so I will usually have them on as I am such a mud magnet.
AND FINALLY… What’s your favourite album? Nirvana Unplugged in New York k. I must have bought this at least five times over the years in various formats. What’s the best bit of advice you’ve ever been given? Take arnica to help reduce bruising. What’s your favourite animal? My little terrier. She’s a dude! What’s the best thing to put in a Thermos on a cold winter’s day? Hot chocolate. Mmm... Northumberland National Park covers over 1000 sq km, containing the remote Cheviot hills to the north and Hadrian’s Wall – a UNESCO World Heritage Site – to the south. It has some of the cleanest rivers in the country and is part of the largest area of protected dark sky in Europe. The Sill, The UK’s National Landscape Discovery Centre is an educational base, local hub and hostel at the south of the park. For more information, visit www. northumberlandnationalpark.org.uk
COMPETITION
, £1,000 of Columbia kit up for grabs! Enjoyed a superb holiday in a National Park? Send us the pics and you could be one of five people to grab £200 of Columbia gear.
H
AVE YOU HAD a brilliant summer holiday in one of our 15 glorious National Parks? Perhaps you witnessed a sunrise in the Cairngorms, took your firstborn up their first Lake District mountain or soaked your friends under a waterfall in the Brecon Beacons. If you took a picture of it, that snap could win you £200 worth of gear from Columbia, supporters of the UK National Parks. Columbia kit will protect the people working in our National Parks from this winter and over the next five years, helping them stay out there longer to
steward our natural environment. Send us your exciting shots, your moody captures of a final descent, that blissful sunset or snaps of exhilarated faces – anything that shows what makes our National Parks so special to you. Visit www.livefortheoutdoors. com/nationalparks and upload your perfect ‘out there’ shot. The rules are simple: it must have been taken in one of our National Parks and you need to enter before 7 November 2017. 7. 7 Winners will be announced in the January 2018 issue of Trail. For T&Cs see www.lfto.com
Plus... Spot the National Park! Every one of our 15 National Parks is distinctive, with its own particular landscape, ecology and charm. But how well do you know them? Can you tell your fells from your fans, your coombes from your cwms and tell us where our 10 views online can be found? Test your expertise with our fun quiz at www.livefortheoutdoors. com/nationalparks
www.livefortheoutdoors.com/nationalparks All products featured available at
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ADVERTISEMENT FEATURE TRAIL 81
Is winter ready for you?
GET 20% OFF! Get 20% off all Columbia’s full-price kit, until 7 Nov. Just quote ‘Tough20’ at Blacks, instore or at www.blacks.co.uk/ columbia
...because you’ll be ready for it! Columbia clothing will protect the wonderful people who look after our National Parks in all weathers from this winter.
Women’s Powder Lite Jacket £100 / XS-XL Super-insulated, the Powder Lite jacket defends against the cold and wet, without bulkiness or excess weight. Made with water-resistant fabric to keep out the rain and insulated with
synthetic fill, it will keep you warm even in damp conditions. A reflective silver lining increases warmth even more, helping trap heat within, while an adjustable hem keeps the chill out. For lightweight, breathable, water-resistant warmth, anywhere, it’s ideal. FEATURES • Omni-Heat thermal reflective lining • Storm-Lite DPII water-resistant fabric • Synthetic down insulation
Women’s Mercury Maven IV Jacket £130 / XS-XL For serious cosiness and style in one, the Mercury Maven is ideal. Water resistant and insulated with 550 fill power duck down, it will keep you toasty warm with very low weight. A snug, removable hood ups the cosiness, while faux fur detailing and flattering lines keep it feminine, with all the practical touches you need for everyday life. This jacket is designed to face the worst of winter weather and still look good.
Della Fall Mid Down Jacket £160 / XS-XL The Della Fall provides all the warmth you need against winter, with a flattering fit. Insulated with 550 fill power down, only taken from ethically responsible sources, it keeps in the heat while retaining a neat silhouette and feather-light weight. Its reflective, silver lining – Columbia’s own Omni-Heat – increases insulation to keep you even cosier without any added bulkiness. But it’s not just 82 TRAIL ADVERTISEMENT FEATURE
practical: leather detailing, removable faux fur and a flattering cut keep it clean and feminine. This is the kind of coat that makes you pray for cold days.
FEATURES • Omni-Heat thermal reflective lining • 550 fill power down insulation • Adjustable hood with removable faux fur
FEATURES • 550 fill power down insulation • Removable faux fur-edged hood • Omni-Shield water and stain-repellent
PRODUCT SHOWCASE
Altitude Aspect Full Zip Fleece Jacket £80 / S-XXL Warm and practical, you can rely on the Altitude Aspect for almost any activity, all year round. Its snug, fleece fabric features water- and stain-repellant Omni-Shield which resists the rain and, being fast-drying and quick-wicking, will regulate your temperature even while you’re working hard. With zip chest and hand pockets, and an active fit, it's equally well suited to a climb up Scafell Pike, simple DIY or a trip to the local pub. Robust warmth sorted.
FEATURES • Omni-Shield water- and stain-repellent • Zip chest and hand pockets • Active fit
Powder Lite Hooded Jacket £100 / S-XXL Warmth three ways. Insulated, reflective and water-repellant, the Powder Lite creates a formidable barrier between you and the cold. Synthetic insulation traps warmth, working well even in the damp, while Omni-Heat thermal lining uses small
silver dots to bounce back your body heat, boosting temperature without bulk. With water resistance to shuck off the rain, it’ll keep you warm through winter, in almost any situation. FEATURES • Omni-Heat thermal reflective lining • Storm-Lite DPII water-resistant fabric • Adjustable hood and hem
Ramble Down Hybrid Hooded Jacket £140 / S-XXL Made for active warmth, the Ramble Down provides snug insulation without restricting movement. Stretch soft shell material in the arms and shoulders allows maximum mobility, while resisting the wind. 700 fill power down insulation in the core and hoodie keeps your body warm, retaining heat efficiently and effectively. Combined, the excellent mobility and insulation allow you to stay active in the worst conditions – on the hill or at home.
FEATURES • 700 fill power down insulation • Wind-resistant soft shell fabric • Handwarmer and zip chest pockets
Everett Mountain Jacket £180 / S-XXL Hate the cold? Keep it out. Outside, the Everett jacket’s waterproof and breathable Omni-Tech fabric resists downpours and moderates temperature. Inside, insulation keeps you warm and Omni-Heat reflective lining helps retain your body heat by bouncing it back. Adjustable cuffs, hem and storm hood allow you to lock out the elements when they turn
aggressive. Insulated, waterproof and breathable – it does it all, in all conditions.
FEATURES • Omni-Tech waterproof and breathable fabric • Omni-Heat thermal reflective lining • Microtemp XFII insulation
All products featured available at
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ADVERTISEMENT FEATURE TRAIL 83
ALTBERG
®
B O OT M A K E RS
Est. 1989
YORKSHIRE • ENGLAND
THE TETHERA BOOT
- 5 WIDTH FITTINGS Xtra Wide Wide Medium Narrow Xtra Narrow
Boot shown in photo: TETHERA
In 1969 I started working at the factory in my home town of Richmond, Yorkshire. The factory was forced to close in 1989 and that’s when I started Altberg. The Altberg factory stands just 100 yards from where the old shoe factory once stood, most days I look across at where it used to be and have good memories.
THE ULTIMATE SPORTS GPS Touchscreen Outstanding GPS performance Large 3.5" Hi-Res screen Very long battery life (16 hours) Bluetooth Smart Waterproof (IP68)
Buttons GPS/GLONASS/GALILEO Hi-Res OS Mapping Barometric altimeter Wifi Shockproof (IK7)
I still work every day in my factory in Richmond and one week each month at our factory in Italy making classic boots in width fittings and different footshapes. All our premier retailers have been trained by me at our factory - they understand boot fitting - and together over many years we’ve brought comfort to many peoples feet. Visit one of our premier retailers and try it for yourself. W0001c
PREMIER RETAILERS Craigdon Mountain Sports (Aberdeen/Perth/ Inverurie/Inverness/Edinburgh) 01467 629394 | Foothills Sheffield 01442 586228 George Fisher Keswick 01768 772178 | Outside Derbyshire 01433 651936 Lockwoods Leamington Spa 01926 339388 Mountain Feet Marsden 01484 842144 | Rathbones Keswick 01768 774900 Stafford Outdoor Leisure Stafford 01785 240594 Taunton Leisure (Taunton/Exeter/Bristol) 01823 332987 Whalley Warm arm & Dry Lancashire 01254 822220 Altberg g North Yorkshire 01748 826922 | Breaking Free Farnham 01252 724347
Available online and from leading Outdoor stores satmap.com | sales@satmap.com | 0845 873 0101
www.altberg.co.uk
GEAR
57
OBJECTS OF OUTDOOR DESIRE INSIDE!
NEED KIT? THIS IS YOUR OUR GUIDE TESTS YOU CAN TRUST
A MONTH ON THE TRAIL WITH...
TEXENERGY INFINITE AIR £98 Graham Thompson Trail Technical Editor
All Trail tests are completely unbiased and independent. As Trail‘s Technical Editor, GT has been testing our outdoor equipment for over 25 years, and is proud to be a bit of a geek when it comes to kit. GT's reviews have earned him recognition as one of the most influential people in the outdoor industry. He has collaborated with the Leeds University Performance Clothing Research Group; worked as an outdoor instructor and in outdoor retail; and has authored books on scrambles and a backpacking guide to the Lake District.
THIS MONTH W E T E S T. . . Top-end waterproof jackets p88 Budget waterproof jackets p92 Overtrousers p96
Portable power is a useful addition to a remote base camp. But for reasons we can’t quite put our finger on, solar generation struggles to cut the mustard here in the UK. However, the Infinite Air produces power from a far more reliable form of British weather: wind. The mini turbine comes with an adjustable stand and a metre-long power cable. Set it up, point it into the wind (anything over 15mph should start the blades turning) and either plug it into your USB chargeable electronic device (phone, tablet, GPS device, headtorch – that kind of thing), or use it to top up a portable power pack
(Texenergy make a range) to store the juice for future charging needs. At 429g this is not a ‘take everywhere’ piece of kit. But if you’re setting up camp for a couple of nights it could be a godsend given the increasingly electronic nature of outdoor kit. Texenergy tells us that a hydroelectric version is also, ahem, “in the pipeline”.
> WE SAY Portable power generation from a predictably reliable source that’s compact enough not to spoil the view. www.texenergy.co.uk
YOU CAN READ OUR GEAR TESTS ONLINE! Visit www.livefortheoutdoors.com/gear-reviews/latest to access Trail’s gear test archive for free! NOVEMBER 2017 TRAIL 85
BEN WEEEKS
GT’s love of hillwalking and backpacking has taken him all over the world, but the Lake District is his passion.
First Test NEW KIT GETS THE TRAIL TREATMENT
MONTANE ICARUS/PHOENIX £140 DOES PRIMALOFT’S THERMOPLUME FILL SUCCESSFULLY BRIDGE THE PERFORMANCE
C
hoosing between natural down and synthetic insulation is quite a challenges for hillwalkers. Down is exceptionally efficient, so you need less of it to stay warm, which results in jackets being lightweight with a small pack size. Synthetic insulation, however, performs better than down when damp, is lower priced and there are no concerns around animal welfare during its production. Perhaps the ultimate insulation is one that combines the benefits of both materials, and PrimaLoft believes it has achieved that with its ThermoPlume insulation. The Montane Icarus for men and Phoenix for women are the first jackets to use PrimaLoft’s innovative insulation. Packed into microbaffles visible as horizontal lines of stitching across the garments, the insulation consists of individual, down-like plumes of synthetic material which allows it to be blown into the baffles in the same way that a down jacket is constructed. It’s these individual clusters of material that make down
86 TRAIL NOVEMBER 2017
and ThermoPlume far more efficient at trapping warm air (there’s more space around each fibre) than the matted material that’s conventionally used for synthetic insulation. Another benefit of these small plumes of synthetic material is that they are extremely soft and flexible, so mould to your body for a figure-hugging fit. But, importantly, for backpacking and hillwalking, these plumes are more compressible, so the packed size of the jacket is reduced. Finally, there is the benefit that synthetic insulation maintains its performance better than down when dampened by water, so there’s less need to worry about keeping the insulation perfectly dry. However, it’s important not to read too much into this benefit, as synthetic fill will still work much better if kept out of the rain, so this is not a green light to ditch your waterproof just yet! Putting the medium-sized jacket on, it feels warm, close-fitting and cosy with
a good amount of insulation packed into its baffles. I normally take a size large, but can generally fit in a medium reasonably well, so it was perhaps snugger on me than intended. Body length was good, being not too short, and the cuffs didn’t ride up when raising my arms. The hood is a basic elasticated design without cord adjustment, but it did fit closely – although it didn’t move with my head. There is no cuff or hem adjustment, though – which is common with many down or synthetic insulated jackets until you reach the topend options. So while a drawback, it is quite normal at low- and mid-price bands. PrimaLoft claim ThermoPlume is equivalent to 550+ fill power down, however most down jackets have a fill power of 600, 700 and even 850 fill power, so ThermoPlume doesn’t match the best down available in terms of its efficiency. It has a good level of warmth for year-round use, though, and it’s just about acceptable for short, cold snaps in winter, or when throwing on for summit
Right from top: elasticated cuffs to lock warm air inside; the front zip’s internal baffle keeps out wind and keeps in warmth; the synthetic insulation looks almost like down; insulation is held in horizontal baffles.
EXTRA STUFF
NALGENE 1 LITRE WIDE MOUTH BOTTLE £13 Clementine, Pomegranate, Woodsman, Aubergine, Cerulean, Melon Ball and Olive. Not the ingredients for the latest weight-loss super-smoothie, but the new fruity colours in Nalgene’s autumn 2017 range of hydration bottles – a design which has otherwise remained virtually unchanged in 50 years. years www.firstascent.co.uk www firstascent.co uk
NOOZIE PEBBLE £30 BETWEEN DOWN AND SYNTHETIC INSULATION? brews in milder winter conditions, but I would want something warmer for long days or nights in the snow while camping or bivvying. The weight of 566g (size M) is comparable to good-quality synthetic jackets, but down jackets of this weight are warmer – for example, Montane’s goose down-filled North Star at £250 and 565g (size L) is ideal for the depths of winter. At £140, the Icarus/Phoenix jacket is a similar price to other quality, syntheticinsulated jackets and more bank balancefriendly than a quality down-insulated jacket, which can easily extend from £140 to £350. You are getting the benefits of performance when damp, but it’s still not as warm as a down jacket of the same weight. Overall this means it compares extremely well to other synthetic jackets around its price point. It also makes it ideal for those on a budget who want a good insulated jacket for autumn, spring and milder winter days when having a summit brew or bothy night. T
The Pebble is a delightfully tactile, portable power bank with a neat trick up its smooth-rounded sleeves. In addition to providing 3500mAh of on-the-go power to charge your mobile devices, it’s also a handwarmer, providing up to four hours of double-sided heat. www.nooziecomfort.com
PrimaLoft’s new ThermoPlume insulation makes the Montane Icarus/Phoenix jacket a great option for hillwalking and backpacking on a budget in milder winter conditions. However, down insulation is still more efficient if you need the warmest jacket with the lightest weight and can afford to splash extra cash. VERDICT
■ Sizes men’s Icarus S-XXL/ women’s Phoenix 8-16 ■ Weight 566g (size M) ■ Insulation PrimaLoft ThermoPlume ■ Shell Pertex Quantum Eco
Faetures Fit Comfort In use Value for money
★ ★ ★ ★★ ★ ★ ★ ★★ ★ ★ ★ ★★ ★ ★ ★ ★★ ★ ★ ★ ★★
OVERALL SCORE
88%
LIFEVENTURE ULTRALIGHT DRY-BAGS FROM £9.99 To keep your kit dry and organised, a selection of drybags in various sizes and colours is the perfect solution. From 2-70 litres with plenty of capacity sizes in between, these are tough, light, and Duke of Edinburgh approved (the award, rather than His Royal Highness, although we’re sure Phil loves them).www.lifeventure.com
NOVEMBER 2017 TRAIL 87
Test
of TOP-END the
Best TOP HILL KIT GOES HEAD TO HEAD
WATERPROOF JACKETS ZIPS
HOOD The hood should fit your head snugly so it doesn’t blow down when the wind picks up. But it’s vital that it moves with your head for good visibility. Hood peaks can become bent when the jacket is stashed in a rucksack, so look for a wired peak that can be easily reshaped.
Zips used on jackets are usually not waterproof so an external single or double storm flap is useful. Waterresistant zips are commonly used on higher-priced jackets, but these are not fully waterproof either. They can leak, so look for one fitted with an internal flap that’s designed to channel the water away.
POCKETS Big pockets are great for storing maps, guidebooks and gloves, and can also be used to protect your hands from the elements. Rucksack belts obscure access to some pockets so make sure the latter are well positioned to avoid this problem.
FABRICS On higher-priced jackets the fabrics used are the most waterproof and breathable available and while there may be small differences between them, this will be difficult to notice on the hill and your comfort will often be dictated by features such as hood, pocket and sleeve design. However, on lower-priced jackets (not featured here; see page 92), fabric breathability and the durability of waterproofness is more important to consider.
88 TRAIL NOVEMBER 2017
VENTILATION Even the best waterproof and breathable fabrics allow condensation to form, so it’s important you can increase ventilation. A front zip can be used for venting, as can underarm zips (pit zips), while mesh linings in pockets will help too. However, mesh pockets may allow water to pass through to the inside of the jacket.
JACKETS
MAGA ZINE
BEST VALUE
m n
Montane Ajax
m n
Páramo Velez/Andina Jacket
m
Berghaus Extrem 5000
£280
n Men’s S-XXL n Women’s 8-16 n Weight 469g (size L) n Materials 3-layer Gore-Tex
£285
n Men’s S-XXL n Women’s XS-XL n Weight 665g (size L) n Materials Lightweight Nikwax Analogy
£300
The weight and price tag of this new jacket for autumn 2017 ensures it’s instantly appealing. It’s made from 3-layer Gore-Tex, but it’s not the more breathable Pro version – although it’s still adequate for most hillwalkers. The body is a slightly slimmer fit than other tested here and yet the cuffs and hem did not budge when I raised my arms, which is a plus. The body isn’t long but is better than average so it covered my backside and groin reasonably well. With a wired peak, the hood fit is great and vision is really good whatever the elements. There are two, well-placed OS map-sized pockets, plus an additional smaller pocket higher on the chest.
Páramo uses a unique fabric that ensures far greater breathability and better condensation management than other fabrics and the result is more comfort, particularly on cold and wet days. The Velez uses Páramo’s lighter honeycomb liner and is designed for year-round use in a range of activities, including cycling, climbing and backpacking, so it has a shorter body length than others with excellent sleeve movement for scrambling. The hood fit and movement is outstanding, while a wired peak allows clear vision. There are sleeve and side vents plus map-size chest pockets. It works well on the hill, especially in cold to mild weather.
This is a new jacket for autumn/ winter 2017 with features that prepare it well to tackle harsh mountain weather while walking or mountaineering. It’s built from 3-layer Gore-Tex (not the more breathable Gore-Tex Pro) which is more than acceptable for most users. Additional reinforcement is provided on the shoulders, while 8cm more body length than some jackets protected below the waist. Sleeve action is pretty good, with only small cuff and hem movements when scrambling. The hood gets a wired peak and fits and moves well with the head. There are also three huge chest pockets that are well placed and they all easily take maps.
There are some drawbacks to this design and if you spend more you can get the more breathable Gore-Tex Pro fabric. More importantly, in my view, is that the high chest pocket is quite small which I found annoying as it won’t take an OS map – but of course, the other two pockets will. This jacket doesn’t have pit zips which, in my opinion, is not a deal-breaker for hillwalkers, but they can be useful to save stripping off your jacket between showers when mountaineering. Despite its reinforced shoulders, other jackets feel even more robust – which then, of course, increases their price and weight.
While lighter than other Páramo jackets, it’s still relatively heavy and provides more insulation that other conventional waterproof jackets, too. These factors can be managed though – you need less underclothing for example – but it does mean that in mixed weather this can take some getting used to. Other jackets have a third chest pocket which is useful as you can warm your hands and keep maps elsewhere. Thinner, lighter material used on the sleeves and hem area doesn’t feel as durable as others and it’s also less resistant to wind pressure so warm air is squeezed out more easily than with stiffer jackets.
There is no women’s version of this jacket, which is a let-down. Also, if you pay more you can get jackets using Gore-Tex Pro. Then there are lighter jackets and jackets with slightly less movement in the cuff and hem when scrambling, but these are very tiny details that may not really be a major benefit on the hill for most users. If you are really picky then some other jacket pockets are a couple of centimetres higher on the body so they don’t get obstructed by rucksack hipbelts or harness, but again this is a small issue. Also other jackets tested fit slightly more neatly which may suit slimmer users.
Great jacket with a good weight for most hillwalkers – but more demanding users will feel others have benefits they cannot live without.
Fine for damp day walks but other Páramo jackets are longer, have more pockets and generally feel better for wilder and winter weather.
An excellent jacket for the price that will provide much of what most hill and mountain walkers will need when out and about during cold, wet days.
IT'S GOOD
HOWEVER
VERDICT
Features Fit Comfort In use Value for money
★ ★ ★★★ ★ ★ ★★★ ★ ★ ★★★ ★ ★ ★★ ★ ★ ★ ★★ ★
OVERALL SCORE
92%
IT'S GOOD
HOWEVER
VERDICT
Features Fit Comfort In use Value for money
★ ★ ★★ ★ ★ ★ ★★★ ★ ★ ★★ ★ ★ ★ ★★ ★ ★ ★ ★★ ★
OVERALL SCORE
84%
n Men’s XS-XL n Women’s None n Weight 562g (size L) n Materials 3-layer Gore-Tex
IT'S GOOD
HOWEVER
VERDICT
Features Fit Comfort In use Value for money
★ ★ ★★★ ★ ★ ★★ ★ ★ ★ ★★★ ★ ★ ★★ ★ ★ ★ ★★ ★
OVERALL SCORE
88%
NOVEMBER 2017 TRAIL 89
MAGA ZINE
BEST IN TEST
m n
Patagonia Triolet
m n
Mtn Equipment Lhotse/Manaslu
m
Rab Latok
£300
n Men’s XS-XL n Women’s XS-XL n Weight 619g (size L) n Materials 3-layer Gore-Tex
£350
n Men’s Lhotse S-XXL n Women’s Manaslu 8-16 n Weight 526g (size L) n Materials 3-layer Gore-Tex Pro
£380
Packed with features for general hillwalking comfort and ease of movement, Patagonia’s Triolet is tailored from 3-layer Gore-Tex which provides perfectly acceptable levels of waterproofness and breathability. You also get about 8cm extra length in the body compared to others tested here, which means more backside and groin protection. The hood fit and movement is excellent, too. There are two Napoleon chest pockets that are ideal for items smaller than a map, while the two lower, map-sized pockets are just about accessible above a rucksack belt. You also get pit zips for added ventilation.
This Mountain Equipment jacket has frequently received great reviews and continues to set the benchmark for others. It’s built around a tough version of 3-layer Gore-Tex Pro for high levels of durability, waterproofness and breathability and importantly, the design is good too. You get excellent body coverage with exceptional sleeve performance – the cuffs and hem don’t move when scrambling. The hood gets a well-stiffened peak, drawcords that pull it in close and it moves very well with your head. There are pit zips as well. For me the real benefit of the Lhotse are the three massive chest pockets.
Redesigned for autumn 2017, the Rab Latok has a pair of excellent Napoleon pockets that easily take OS maps and benefit from chunky zips and large zip pullers that are easily operated with gloved hands. It’s made from a stiffer, heavier and more durable version of eVent fabric for better protection in wild weather and while scrambling or climbing. There is a chunky front zip, too, and a hood with an effective wired peak and good movement. Pit zips provide for venting and there’s superb freedom of movement in the sleeves. Good for mountaineering, and for those who don’t bother with handwarmer pockets.
This is quite heavy due to there being more features, but also the fabric does have a slightly more robust feel to it. The other important drawback is that this is made from Gore-Tex, rather than more breathable Gore-Tex Pro – but it still performs well enough for hillwalking in my view. Compared to others tested, the sleeve movement is not quite so good as the cuffs and hem do ride up a little more than others when scrambling. The hood peak is not that stiff and would benefit from a wire to allow its reshaping. Also, the Napoleon pockets are a bit small for OS maps, while the lower pocket access is slightly obscured by some rucksack hipbelts.
It’s not the lightest jacket available and you could argue that it would be lighter if its pit zips were removed. Having zips without external stormflaps is common these days, but it’s possible this area could leak more easily than a jacket with external stormflaps – but this would, of course, make the jacket heavier anyway. These zips do work pretty well so, all things considered, it’s not a major issue. The price tag, while not the lowest, is actually quite good compared to other top-spec jackets, and remains the same price as last year, while others have increased. Not a lot wrong here to be honest, and for me this is my go-to jacket.
There is no women’s option of the Latok, which is a real pity as it’s superb in every other way. The main drawbacks come down to the pros and cons of Napoleon pockets – they are huge and ideal for mountaineering, but if you like to put your hands in pockets when walking then you clearly cannot do that with this jacket. Other jackets are lighter than this one and you can spend less cash and get more pockets, if that’s your thing. So, you are really paying for that heavier, more durable, fabric, which may not be worth the money if you’re not a hard user. So this jacket is superb at what it does, but do you need what it does?
The Triolet’s price, length and four pockets are appealing to hillwalkers, but it’s heavy and some details are better on higher priced jackets.
This is a seasoned performer that has excellent features for regular hillwalkers tackling the worst of hill and mountain weather. Hard to beat!
Outstanding for mountaineering and hard mountain days if you prefer Napoleon pockets over handwarmer pockets, but pricy.
IT'S GOOD
HOWEVER
VERDICT
Features Fit Comfort In use Value for money
★ ★ ★★ ★ ★ ★ ★★ ★ ★ ★ ★★★ ★ ★ ★★ ★ ★ ★ ★★ ★
90 TRAIL NOVEMBER 2017
OVERALL SCORE
84%
IT'S GOOD
HOWEVER
VERDICT
Features Fit Comfort In use Value for money
★ ★ ★★★ ★ ★ ★★★ ★ ★ ★★★ ★ ★ ★★★ ★ ★ ★★ ★
OVERALL SCORE
96%
n Men’s XS-XXL n Women’s None n Weight 526g (size L) n Materials 3-layer Event DV Expedition
IT'S GOOD
HOWEVER
VERDICT
Features Fit Comfort In use Value for money
★ ★ ★★ ★ ★ ★ ★★ ★ ★ ★ ★★★ ★ ★ ★★★ ★ ★ ★★ ★
OVERALL SCORE
84%
JACKETS
m n
Mammut Meron/Ridge HS
m n
Arc’teryx Beta LT
m n
Fjällräven Keb Eco-Shell
£395
£400
n Men’s S-XXL n Women’s XS-XL n Weight 366g (size L) n Materials 3-layer Gore-Tex Pro
£425
The Meron uses the waterproof and breathable 3-layer Gore-Tex Pro, which is well proven for offering high levels of waterproofness and breathability. You get reinforcement in the grey areas too, for more durability under rucksacks. Fitwise it’s slightly snugger than others tested and shorter in the body, too, which you may prefer. The hood fits and moves with your head well with a large, stiffened peak for good vision. Pit zips give added ventilation, while the two main pockets are huge and well placed, making them useful for stowing items on the move. Overall, there are some good features here.
The standout feature here is the weight of just 366g. It’s made of 3-layer Gore-Tex Pro like heavier, high-end jackets, but it’s a slightly lighter version to save weight. Of course it still offers top-end waterproofness and breathability. The body is slightly neater and closer fitting than some, but you still get good movement in the sleeves without the hem or cuffs riding up when scrambling. The hood fits closer than others and moves exceptionally well with your head, benefiting from a lightly stiffened peak. There are just two main pockets on the chest but they are well placed for handwarming or stowing items on the move.
The material sets this apart from others. It is a stretch 3-layer fabric with a softer, rustle-free feel and it’s also more environmentally friendly than some other options. You also get a wider range of sizes. On the body, this jacket is about 6cm longer than average, which means better protection for the groin and backside. Sleeve movement is excellent, without a hint of the cuffs or hem riding up and the hood fits snugly with appreciable movement and a well-stiffened peak. There are side zips to vent the body and a pair of Napoleon pockets that are a good size for maps. So plenty of good features here for those that don’t need hand warmer pockets.
The Meron comes in a men’s option only so women need to look to the very similar Ridge HS – but this uses standard 3-layer Gore-Tex rather than Gore-Tex Pro, so it’s less breathable. The closer fit of the Meron did not cover my backside as well as others, and I found the cuffs and hem tended to rise up more easily too when scrambling. Other jackets have a third chest pocket, which is useful. While the hood and peak are good, this is not a wired peak so you cannot reform its shape if it gets bashed. Finally, the price is quite high compared to others and there are lighter jackets available.
Other jackets do get some extra benefits. For example, you only get two pockets rather than three, the hood is not wired so if it does distort you cannot easily reshape it and there are no pit zips, either. While the fabric is durable enough for most walkers, hardcore users may prefer jackets with tough outer layers to the Gore-Tex Pro laminate for even more durability. Other jackets also have a wider internal stormflap at the main zip, which may protect against wind and potential leaks slightly better. Finally, the price tag is steep compared to others as you are getting less features here but paying more cash.
If you want somewhere to warm your hands then you are out of luck here, as there’s only two, albeit good-sized, Napoleon chest pockets. Also, as the fabric is quite soft it does tend to buckle under the wind a little more than stiffer fabrics so it can feel chillier by comparison. The outer of the fabric is a polyester rather than a more durable nylon, so it’s possible that this may not be quite as durable for those that regularly rub shoulders with rock, for example – but it is perfectly good for general walking and backpacking. The main drawback here is the price tag compared to others.
A durable jacket with two huge pockets, with weight better than some, but the price is high and other jackets have additional benefits.
Ideal for hillwalkers, this lighter weight Gore-Tex Pro jacket has good pockets but other jackets have more features and a lower price tag.
If you don’t need handwarmer pockets this is a great jacket with good stretch and comfort, but the price tag is eye-watering compared to others.
n Men’s Meron S-XXL n Women’s Ridge HS XS-XL n Weight 534g (size L) n Materials 3-layer Gore-Tex Pro (men’s Meron); 3-layer Gore-Tex (women’s Ridge HS)
IT'S GOOD
HOWEVER
VERDICT
Features Fit Comfort In use Value for money
★ ★ ★★ ★ ★ ★ ★★ ★ ★ ★ ★★★ ★ ★ ★★ ★ ★ ★★★ ★
OVERALL SCORE
80%
IT'S GOOD
HOWEVER
VERDICT
Features Fit Comfort In use Value for money
★ ★ ★★ ★ ★ ★ ★★★ ★ ★ ★★★ ★ ★ ★★★ ★ ★ ★★★
OVERALL SCORE
84%
n Men’s XS-XXL n Women’s XXSXXL n Weight 531g (size L) n Materials 3-layer stretch Eco-Shell IT'S GOOD
HOWEVER
VERDICT
Features Fit Comfort In use Value for money
★ ★ ★★ ★ ★ ★ ★★★ ★ ★ ★★★ ★ ★ ★★★ ★ ★ ★★ ★
OVERALL SCORE
84%
NOVEMBER 2017 TRAIL 91
Best for
Budget BEST KIT ACROSS THE PRICE BANDS
WATERPROOF JACKETS WHAT TO EXPECT: UP TO £100
WHAT TO EXPECT: £101 TO £175 You can expect fabrics with higher levels of waterproofness and breathability, so you should stay dry, both inside and out, for longer. Cuff and hem adjustment should be standard and the hood should also be easy to adjust and move with your head. Pockets may be placed better to allow easier access. In this price range the jackets may lack some of the benefits of higher-priced options but they will offer the basics you need to be comfortable when hillwalking.
WHAT TO EXPECT: FROM £176 TO £250 Expect improved levels of waterproofness and breathability from the fabric as well as reinforced areas, or just harder wearing materials throughout, for use when scrambling or participating in frequent hillwalking trips. Extra benefits may include a third or fourth chest pocket for maps, guidebooks and GPS receiver. Pit zips may be provided to allow extra ventilation, while hoods should have good fit and movement with your head to allow easier vision when walking in bad weather. You may also get extremely lightweight jackets in this price range that maintain higher levels of performance from the fabric and the design than lower-priced lightweight ones. 92 TRAIL NOVEMBER 2017
You are getting the basics to stay dry, so expect a waterproof and breathable fabric – but not the absolute best, so you may get clammy or its waterproofing quality may wear out sooner. Pockets are often provided but you may only have two, possibly placed low on the body where their access is obscured by rucksack belts. The hood may lack or only have basic adjustment and not move well with your head. Cuffs and hem may just be elasticated rather than having drawcords or Velcro. The fit may also be less precise and there may not be specific options for men and women.
BEST FOR BUDGET UP TO £100 m
Highlander Stow & Go Packaway Jacket
£30
n Men’s XS-XXL n Women’s None n Weight 307g (size L) n Material PU-coated nylon
ingress better than those that are. It comes with a stuffsack, too.
You get a better level of performance here with nylon fabric rather than the less durable polyester often used in low-priced jackets, with the material here rated as being of a higher level of waterproofness and breathability than others in this budget range. Other benefits include the hood having drawcords and volume adjustment, while the cuffs have Velcro tab adjusters. The two lower zip pockets are not mesh lined, so they seal out water
If you pay more you get a higher spec fabric for improved long-term waterproofness and breathability. Some jackets have a mesh lining for more comfort, which you don’t get here so this can be clammy. Equally, higher-priced jackets have better zip designs to keep water out more effectively. The hood does have a peak, but it’s large and can obscure vision easily, although it does turn well with your head. Finally, like many
IT'S GOOD
jackets, the lower pockets are easily obscured by rucksack belts. So, all in all, it’s far from perfect, but good at this price.
HOWEVER
Low price and weight. It keeps you dry on the hill, but if you pay more you get better features and performance. VERDICT
Features Fit Comfort In use Value for money
★ ★ ★★ ★ ★ ★ ★★★ ★ ★ ★★★ ★ ★ ★★★ ★ ★ ★★★
OVERALL SCORE
72% m
Regatta Alkin
£90
n Men’s S-XL n Women’s None n Weight 550g (size L) n Material Isotex 5000 polyester with mesh lining
What sets this apart from others in this price range is the polyester lining inside, so it feels less clammy compared to low-priced 3-, 2- or 2.5-layer jackets. Also, the fabric in the body is stretchy which allows a closer fit. The hood is pretty good, with a rear volume and face adjustment and it moves with the head. Furthermore, the two main pockets are placed slightly higher than some others, IT'S GOOD
so you can maintain access to them while wearing a rucksack hipbelt. Cuff adjustment and hem adjustment is provided. You can get lighter HOWEVER jackets at this price, but they may be more clammy. The fit is quite close so when you raise your arms the hem or cuffs ride up, which does not happen on better jackets. Also, while the pockets are better than most – just about taking a map – others are larger and placed higher for better access. While the hood is quite good, others have a wired peak for
even better protection. If you pay more you would also get better breathability and waterproofness. The lining improves comfort over many others in this price range, and general features are good, but the little details could be even better. VERDICT
Features Fit Comfort In use Value for money
★ ★ ★★ ★ ★ ★ ★★★ ★ ★ ★★★ ★ ★ ★★★ ★ ★ ★★★
OVERALL SCORE
76% m n
Rab Downpour MAGA ZINE
APPROVED APPROVED
£100
n Men’s S-XXL n Women’s 8-16 n Weight 323g (size L) n Material 2.5-layer Pertex Shield Plus
zips to aid condensation control. This all adds up to a very practical jacket for light hillwalking.
all these drawbacks, though, it would result in a heavier and more pricy jacket.
New for 2017, it’s light thanks to the use of 2.5-layer Pertex+. This jacket is about 4cm longer than the shorter jackets here, so you get a bit more protection. The fit is quite close and neat with less movement in the cuffs when you raise your arms than many other jackets. There are two good chest pockets without mesh linings, so they are great for keeping rain out. You get a hood with a wired d peak, p , plus p s pit p
This fabric does not control condensation as well as a high-priced 3-layer fabric or a jacket with a loose lining, so it can feel clammy. It’s also thin and so less durable than heavier options. In driving rain, insulation underneath tends to get compressed so you feel cold. The two pockets are OS map sized, but a third would be useful to stash items while you use the main ones for handwarming. g Iff yyou tweaked
If weight and price are a top priority then this is an excellent hillwalking jacket, but more cash and more weight bring additional benefits.
MORE SPECIFIC?
PHOTOGRAPHS BY GRAHAM THOMPSON
IT'S GOOD
HOWEVER
LOOKING TO PAY LESS?
Freedom Trail Cloudburst £25/331g (size L)
VERDICT
Features Fit Comfort In use Value for money
★ ★ ★★ ★ ★ ★ ★★★ ★ ★ ★★★ ★ ★ ★★★ ★ ★ ★★★
OVERALL SCORE
88%
LOOKING FOR A LONGER TRADITIONAL STYLE?
m n
A mesh lining improves comfort, but higherpriced jackets have better fabric performance, and the hood and cuffs are elasticated only. The price, though, is very appealing.
Craghoppers Kiwi Classic/ m n Madigan Classic £90/£80 757g (size L) If you don’t want light, modern styling this is ideal with its large patch pockets (men’s only) plus handwarmer pockets, a much longer body and full mesh lining to manage condensation better.
NOVEMBER 2017 TRAIL 93
BEST FOR BUDGET BETWEEN £101-£175 Montane Atomic
£125
m n
n Men’s S-XXL n Women’s 8-18 n Weight 319g (size L) n Material 2.5-layer Pertex Shield
relatively close and neat, yet the sleeves and hem don’t ride up when scrambling.
if you like to store items in one pocket and still have dedicated handwarmer pockets.
It’s the combination of benefits that lift this jacket above others tested in this price range. It’s lightweight thanks to its 2.5- rather than 3-layer fabric and you also get zip venting to help with condensation control. Two good-sized pockets take OS maps and can be accessed while wearing a rucksack with a hipbelt. The hood has a wired and stiffened peak and it fits and moves with the head well. The general fit is
The material does feel thin, and clammier than a 3-layer fabric or a jacket with a mesh lining. The body is not the longest, either. Both add up to less comfort in wet and windy weather. Also, the pockets are mesh lined which is good for ventilation but if water enters them then it more easily passes through the jacket than sealed designs. Other jackets also have a third chest pocket, which is great
A well-priced, light jacket with good features for mild conditions, but some heavier jackets have benefits in wilder weather.
IT'S GOOD
HOWEVER
VERDICT
Features Fit Comfort In use Value for money
★ ★ ★★ ★ ★ ★ ★★★ ★ ★ ★★★ ★ ★ ★★★ ★ ★ ★★★
OVERALL SCORE
80%
Berghaus Hillwalker Waterproof Jacket
£160
n Men’s XS-XXL n Women’s 8-18 n Weight 591g (size L) n Materials 2-layer Gore-Tex; mesh lining
The longer length and IT'S GOOD more traditional style of this jacket will appeal to many. 2-layer Gore-Tex with a mesh lining is a proven combination that’s comfortable and effective at keeping the rain at bay. The longer length covered my backside and groin better than other jackets tested here, while the rollaway hood fits closely and did move a little with my head. Overall, it’s good and comfortable jacket.
m n
The weight is creeping up over others tested here, and while you can just about access the two lower pockets if you are wearing a rucksack with a wide hipbelt, access is impeded and other designs offer far better pocket access. There is no external pocket on the chest but you can slot a map into an internal pocket, although you have to open the front zip and get wet to do this. The hood would benefit from a stiffer and wired peak rather than the soft peak provided, and some other designs do move better with your head than this one. When HOWEVER
scrambling, the cuffs tended to ride up more than others. A more traditional jacket style that is good for moorland and general hillwalking, but the pockets, hood and weight are better in other jackets tested. VERDICT
Features Fit Comfort In use Value for money
★ ★ ★★ ★ ★ ★ ★★★ ★ ★ ★★★ ★ ★ ★★★ ★ ★ ★★★
OVERALL SCORE
80%
Alpkit Balance MAGA ZINE
APPROVED
APPROVED
£175
n Men’s S-XXL n Women’s 8-16 n Weight 341g (size L) n Materials 3-layer laminate with nylon face and PU/PTFE membrane
Great performance at a relatively low price. The Balance is made from a thin fabric so the jacket is lightweight, plus the body is slightly longer than some. You get two large chest pockets that have easy access, too, as well as a hood with a wired peak that fits and moves perfectly with your head. This Alpkit jacket offers superb waterproofness and breathabilityy out o on the hill.
MORE SPECIFIC?
IT'S GOOD
92 TRAIL NOVEMBER 2017
m n The fabric is quite thin so, as it compresses easily, the Balance can feel a bit cold in really driving wind and rain. The pockets are mesh lined, so if water gets into them then it will more easily pass through the jacket than others. Also, there are only two pockets so you don’t get a dedicated place to store a map, compass or GPS, and there was a tiny bit of movement in the cuffs when scrambling – not as bad as some, but not the best either. The thin fabric has a nylon outer for durability but it won’t be as resistant to abrasion as a heavier HOWEVER
LOOKING FOR STRETCH IN GENERAL-PURPOSE STYLE
Regatta Cross Pennine III Hybrid £120/563g (size L)
m n
Stretch material across the shoulders gives close fit without restricting movement, a lining adds comfort, the hood has a wired peak and there’s a chest pocket (not OS map sized).
nylon fabric, which regular scramblers should note. An excellent and lightweight jacket for hillwalking and backpacking at an extremely competitive price, but it’s not the best for the wildest of weather or scrambling. VERDICT
Features Fit Comfort In use Value for money
★ ★ ★★ ★ ★ ★ ★★★ ★ ★ ★★★ ★ ★ ★★★ ★ ★ ★★★
OVERALL SCORE
84%
LOOKING FOR LIGHTWEIGHT STRETCH?
OEX Hydra Stretch 2.5 £110/375g (size L)
m n
Lined, but still very lightweight. The hood has a wired peak and fits and moves well, while two large chest pockets have good access. Pit zips aid ventilation but it’s still clammy.
BEST FOR BUDGET BETWEEN £176-£250 Alpkit Definition MAGA ZINE
APPROVED
APPROVED
£210
n Men’s S-XXL n Women’s 8-14 n Weight 529g (size L) n Materials 3-layer laminated with nylon face and PU/PTFE membrane
Alpkit’s attention to IT'S GOOD detail and price make this jacket a must-see. It’s tough, with some good stiffness to fend off winter winds, while the fit is quite close with profiled arms and the cuffs and hem barely ride up when scrambling. The hood fit and movement is exceptional, with a well-designed wired peak that shades the eyes. The two, big main pockets are easy accessible above
m n a rucksack belt, while the third chest pocket is smaller and useful for a GPS receiver or compass. Side zips, rather than pit zips, have been added for venting the jacket. You can get lighter and longer jackets and I’d like that third chest pocket to be slightly bigger. Some jackets have extra reinforcement for heavy use or mountaineering, but the main fabric used here is tougher than most anyway, so it’s questionable if this will be an issue. Some brands quote even higher levels of breathability than offered here, HOWEVER
but the difference for me is barely noticeable when hillwalking. Even so, sweatier folk take note! Perfect for hill and mountain walks and scrambles at a superb price, but the third chest pocket is smaller than it needs to be, which is a pain. VERDICT
Features Fit Comfort In use Value for money
★ ★ ★★★ ★ ★ ★★★ ★ ★ ★★★ ★ ★ ★★★ ★ ★ ★★★
OVERALL SCORE
92%
Mountain Equipment Ogre/Odyssey
£230
n Men’s S-XXL n Women’s 8-16 n Weight 463g (size L) n Materials 3-layer Drilite
Made with a 3-layer Drilite laminate, this jacket is designed for year-round trekking, hillwalking and climbing. To that end you get a typically good hood from Mountain Equipment with a wired peak, a superb fit and movement. Plus, the cuffs don’t ride up when scrambling! The two main pockets are well placed for easy access while wearing a rucksack and they take an OS map. The men’s Ogre features a third IT'S GOOD
m n
chest zip which gives entry to one of the lower pockets, which is odd but does mean you can use the left pocket for either Napoleon-style map storage or for handwarmer access. Pit zips aid ventilation. I find that chest pocket zip on the Ogre rather annoying! While there is a heavier fabric on the shoulders of the Ogre, the women’s Odyssey does not get this extra reinforcement, which is a drawback for harder users. You can get longer and lighter jackets, but I think this is a good compromise. Gore-Tex Pro HOWEVER
would provide even better breathability and Mountain Equipment’s Lhotse provides that if you have another £100 or so. Apart from that third chest zip, this is an excellent general backpacking and hillwalking jacket. VERDICT
Features Fit Comfort In use Value for money
★ ★ ★★ ★ ★ ★ ★★★ ★ ★ ★★★ ★ ★ ★★★ ★ ★ ★★★
OVERALL SCORE
88%
Páramo Velez Adventure Smock
£245
n Men’s S-XXL n Women’s XS-XL n Weight 764g (size L) n Materials Nikwax Analogy
The smock design of this jacket allows for the provision of a huge horizontal front pocket for stowing easily accessible maps and guidebooks while wearing a rucksack. There are zipped side vents on the body and inside there’s a tunnel pocket with zipped access, so you can warm your hands and get in pockets below a rucksack belt easily. The hood fit and movement iss good, g , with w a wired d peak p to shade IT'S GOOD
m n
your eyes. Finally, you get far better breathability compared to other jackets on test, making this a great option for hillwalking.
on your body shape as you may find others too snug. Smocks are not everyone’s favourite, though – so this just won’t work for some.
It’s quite heavy and warm, which can be an issue in milder weather when you may end up stashing it in your pack. And there is no front zip so you can’t vent it from the front. It does have big side vents, though, so if you wear less under it you may not have to take it off. Compared to some other jackets on test, the fit is not quite as neat and close,, but b that in n part p depends p
A great option for cold, wet and windy weather, but personal taste will dictate if it works for you.
HOWEVER
LOOKING FOR LOWER PRICE?
Berghaus Ridgemaster £195/550g (size L) Made from 2-layer Gore-Tex with a mesh lining. Two main, unlined pockets are OS map sized and sit above rucksack belts. The hood moves well with the head.
VERDICT
Features Fit Comfort In use Value for money
★ ★ ★★ ★ ★ ★ ★★★ ★ ★ ★★★ ★ ★ ★★★ ★ ★ ★★★
OVERALL SCORE
84%
LOOKING FOR A FAST AND LIGHT DESIGN?
m
OMM Kamleika Race Jacket £160/271g (size M) £160/
m n
Light, ight, stretchy and figure-hugging with a decent hood ood and two OS map-sized, mesh-lined pockets. Itt isn’t very warm while the material is slightly more clammy than others.
NOVEMBER 2017 TRAIL 93
Gear
Chooser BECAUSE DECISION TIME = HILL TIME
WHEREVER YOUR WALKING TAKES YOU, WATERPROOF OVERTROUSERS ARE ESSENTIAL Best for a low-budget
REGATTA PACK-IT CK-IT OVERTROUSERS VERTROUSERS £20
m n
If
If you just need d basic overtrousers for occasional showers and don’t on’t want to bust your bank balance then these hese are a great option. They are exceptionallyy light, too, at just 171g and pack into their own stuffsack uffsack for easy stowage in your rucksack. They hey are made from Isolite 5000 nylon, which h can’t boast the waterproofness and breathability hability lab results of more pricey trousers,, but they’ll keep you dry when hillwalking nonetheless. There is no mesh lining inside, so any condensation that does develop you u will notice, unlike higher-priced trousers. sers. They come in men’s and women’s sizes and there is press stud ud adjustment at the ankle cuff to prevent some flapping. The waistt is elasticated. More expensive trousers have waist drawcords and d side zips, which are not offered here. But if you want lightweight, low-priced w-priced trousers then these are more than capable of keeping you comfortable mfortable when hillwalking. n Material Isolite 5000 nylon n Sizes XS-XXXL XXXL (men’s); S-XL (women’s) n Weight 171g (men’s L)
Best for good all-round use at a great price
BERGHAUS DELUGE OVERTROUSERS £60 m n These are great all-round overtrousers with a p price tag less likely to break the bank than some other options. o They are built around Berghaus’s own Hydrosh Hydroshell nylon fabric with a mesh lining inside for extra comfo comfort. Higher-priced trousers offer better breathability breathabil and durability, but these are perfectly good for most mo walkers. The side zips are very long and exten extend to the thigh, making these easy to slip on and off over o boots between showers. There is also a double ouble storm flap on the outside of those zips to help keep k wind and rain out more effectively than more basic b designs. The huge size range includes three le leg length options, so there should be one that fits you. y To help with the fit, the waist is elasticated and there t is an elastic drawcord, too. However, the fit is not n quite as close and neat as some more tailored designs. desig n Material Hydroshell nylon with mesh lining n Sizes XS-XXXL plus three leg lengths (men’s); 8-20 plus three leg lengths (women’s) n Weight 384g (men’s L)
96 TRAIL NOVEMBER 2017
Best for low weight with good performance
MONTANE MINIMUS PANTS £110 m n Making ng low-weight trousers is relatively easy but what hat is also important is that the fabric and features eatures are good, too. So these trousers weigh h in at 161g (size L) but they’re also made from m Pertex Shield, which offers high levels of breathability hability and waterproofness to ensure they are comfy omfy and not too clammy. An elasticated waistt features an elastic drawcord and the men’ss comes in six sizes with two leg lengths, but fewer wer sizes are available in the women’s range. e. The side zips are 35cm long with two Velcro o tab adjusters so you can pull these over cross-trainers -trainers and smaller-size boots. As with any lightweight ghtweight trouser there are drawbacks, so you u don’t get a mesh lining for more comfort and,, as the side zips are relatively short, pulling them m on over bigger boots is easier with some otherr designs. Pricier and heavier fabrics will offerr even better performance. The weight and close e fit is great for fast, light activity. n Material erial Pertex Shield n Sizes XS-XXL plus two leg lengthss (men’s); 6-16 (women’s) n Weight 161g (men’s L)
OVERTROUSERS
FOR STAYING DRY THROUGH LIGHT SHOWERS, HEAVY STORMS AND WINTRY SQUALLS. Best for cold, wet weather
Best for extreme winter conditions
PÁRAMO ENDURO TOUR TROUSERS £250 m n
MOUNTAIN EQUIPMENT TUPILAK/ MANASLU PANT £350/£380 m n
Updated for this autumn, the beefy Enduro Tour are Pá Páramo‘s mountaineering trousers – but they are just as useful for f cold weather walking as they are for hanging off rock faces. faces Featuring a fitted cut, shorter leg and Dyneema abrasion-resista abrasion-resistant fabric on the ankles, the legs are designed for crampon use, w while the removable gaiter and brace-compatible waist can deal dea with snow well. Material is Páramo’s Nikwax Analogy pump liner, liner which wicks ingressing rain away from the skin and out into tthe air. The result is much more substantial trousers that are very v supple, comfortable and functional. The trade off is warmth and an weight – but you can wear them next to the skin, or with leggings leggin as the Enduro can double as (warm) normal trousers, too. And An there are thigh-high zips with popper closures so you can ve vent them – though beware if you’re not wearing trousers underneath! undernea n Material Nikwax Analogy treated with Nikwax Direct n Sizes S-XXL with three leg lengths (men’s); XS-XL with three leg l lengths (women’s) n Weight 675g (men’s L)
Best for high performance hillwalking
RAB BERGEN / VIDDA PANTS £150 m n For regular mountain walks a little more technical performance can really make a difference and the Rab Bergen is a great option for those that want just a little more than an lower priced trousers can offer. They are made from 3-layerr eVent fabric, which is well proven for providing very high levels vels of waterproofness and breathability. There is no loose e lining to snag or add weight and this lining isn’t needed d as the fabric is so breathable. Getting them on is easier er than most as you get a thigh-length zip, while the waist aist is elasticated and there is an elasticated drawcord. wcord. There is some articulation a at the knee, which ich allows them to have ha a slightly closer fit than an some. The fabric feels f more durable than an most options with extra e reinforcement einforcement at the knees. k Others thers are lighter and lower ower in price and may, may in some ome cases, have additional add benefits, enefits, but for general gener hillwalking, lwalking, scrambling and winter er walking these are a great year-round round mountain ountain option. opti n Material rial Event 3-layer n Size Sizes S-XXL (men’s Bergen); ergen); 8-16 (women’s Vidda) V n Weight ht 338g (men’s L)
In the wildest of mountain weather, the Mountain Equipment Tupilak for men and Manaslu for women has all those technical details that really make a difference. The material is Gore-Tex Pro, which is well proven for providing very high levels of waterproofness and breathability, but, importantly, it also has an 80 denier face fabric, for more durability when scraped over jagged rock and ice. To protect the lower back, when scrambling or climbing, these have a high waist with a pair of braces provided to hold them in place. There are full-length side zips so you can easily fit these over boots, even while wearing crampons. You also get a removable gaiter inside the ankle cuff to really lock out the elements from entering the top of your boots. There are no leg length options, they are heavy and the price is chilling, but when battling against the very worst a mountain can throw at you, these are unbeatable. n Material Gore-Tex Pro 3-layer n Sizes S-XXL (men’s Tupilak); 8-16 (women’s Manaslu) n Weight 630g (men’s L)
Kit List WET WEATHER
THERE’S NO SUCH THING AS BAD WEATHER, JUST THE WRONG KIT, RIGHT?
❑
A
❑
B
❑
C
❑
D
REPROOFING
LOOK FOR products to revive waterproofs and footwear. Sprayon proofers can increase the water repellency of rucksacks and tents. Pictured NIKWAX TX Direct Wash-In 1L £15
STUFFSACK
GAITERS
LOOK FOR good-quality waterproofing such as Gore-Tex, plus good fit and adjustability to help keep water out of your boots and mud off your trousers. Pictured BERGHAUS GTX Gaiter £50
RUCKSACK ❑ COVER E
LOOK FOR a rucksack with an integrated waterproof cover; or you can purchase them separately. Pictured OSPREY’s integrated rucksack cover – free with rucksack
MAPS
LOOK FOR a waterproof map, or a waterproof case which also helps keep your map folds in place, and enables you to attach it to yourself to stop it blowing away. Pictured ORTLIEB Map Case £19; HARVEY Ultramap £9.95
❑
G
HAT
LOOK FOR a peaked waterproof hat that will help tokeep the rain out of your eyes. Pictured SEALSKINZ Waterproof Cap £28
98 TRAIL NOVEMBER 2017
A
B
LOOK FOR durable waterproofing. Be prepared to pay a premium, but you won’t need stuffsacks or covers. Pictured ARC’TERYX X Alpha FL 45 Climbing Pack £150
❑
LOOK FOR low-weight, roll-top closure and various sizes and colours for ultimate pack organisation. Pictured SEA TO SUMMIT Ultra-Sil Dry Sacks from £8
F
H
GLOVES
LOOK FOR waterproofing and close dexterity to avoid having to remove them to undo zips, alter rucksack shoulder straps and so on. Pictured EXTREMITIES Waterproof Power Liner Glove £22
❑
WATERPROOF ❑ RUCKSACK
I
PHONE CASE
❑
J
SPARE CLOTHES
❑
K
TARP
❑
L
SOCKS
❑
M
GROUP SHELTER
LOOK FOR a hardwearing case that will withstand submersion while also allowing access to the phone’s full functionality. Pictured LIFEPROOF Nüüd phone case from £80; AQUAPAC Phone Case £14
REMEMBER! When all else fails and you get wet, there’s nowt better than a dry base layer to stop the cold creeping in. Pictured PÁRAMO Cambia Zip Neck £45
F
LOOK FOR a packable, lightweight tarp for civilised wetweather camping. Poles can be used for base camp, or walking poles for a lightweight option. Pictured QUECHUA Camping Tarp £2 £28
LOOK FOR a good fit and breathability for an extra layer of protection against the cold and wet. d SEALSKINZ from £34 Pictured
LOOK FOR a lightweight, packable shelter to provide essent essential emergency cover or protection fro from the elements for lunch stops. Pictured TREKMATES Mountain Pod P Group Shelter £35
❑
N
UMBRELLA
LOOK FOR a super-strong brolly for or rain (and sun) protectio protection. Although it may not be a sensible idea to use on a windy mountain ttop, the airflow is in a different league leagu to a sweaty waterproof! Pictured HELINOX Umbrella On One £65
L
WET WEATHER
HERE’S YOUR TICK-LIST FOR PREPARING AND PACKING TO STAY DRY. C
G
D
H
E
J
K
I
M
N
NOVEMBER 2017 TRAIL 99
Used& abused OUR GEAR TESTED FOR YOU
MIDTERM THRASH
LA SPORTIVA TRANGO TREK WMN GTX £185 USED BY Sarah Ryan, rock-hopping rock hopping staff writer USED FOR 6 months
BELATED FIRST LOOK
PÁRAMO OSTRO £125 USED BY Simon Ingram, ngram m, versatility-loving ve editor USED FOR 2 trips tri and counting People who like Páramo tend to get a bit tribal as it’s unique. At 379g, this is a light fleece. It’s not too warm nor too cold: it just works. The unique bit: it feels... well, like there’s something on it. That’s because there is: a PFC-free water repellency, making it half useful in rain. The only thing I don‘t like is the off-centre chin zip; I get the idea, but when unzipped it creates a big flap on one side. Does it bother me? Not really. VERDICT
A useful addition to my take-onevery trip kit list.
100 TRAIL NOVEMBER 2017
I discovered, while chatting to a friend in a boot shop recently, that kit preferences really are hugely variable. I know ow mine: a neat fit for scrambling, o comfort ort for long distances, grippy or rubber, r, few seams and good ground feel. el.. Th These have the lot. I’ve worn them across the Trotternish ridge, onto the
Cuillin, over numerous Lake District hills and all over Snowdonia. They’re looking a bit battered but that’s only right, they are in the midst of being loved to death. I almost want these to wear out so I can get another pair. At the same time, I hope they never do. VERDICT
LONGTERM THRASH
SEA TO SUMMIT FIELD REPAIR BUCKLE £5 USED BY ultra-demanding photographer, Tom Bailey USED FOR 5 months After crushing the original buckle of my Fjllraven Abisko rucksack in the car door (something I seem to do to all of my sacks), I needed a replacement. Due to the fact that this was the stitched in buckle I thought I might have trouble finding something. But no, those clever little devils at Sea
To Summit have a range of buckles with an unscrewable pin that allows you to fix this kind of situation. I love fixing things myself, and this makes it easy. Simple, fast, effective repair, should last until I next crush it in the car door! VERDICT
RAB ELECTRON DOWN JACKET £230
BASHED BY BACKSHALL
USED BY deputy editor with a conscience, Jenna Maryniak USED FOR 6 months I love this koi-coloured Rab Electron mid-weight down jacket. It comes in various colours and in male and female versions (you don’t have to be koi!). My only nagging reservation was about the ethics of the down used. Being a veggie I can’t help but worry about the geese – so I am at least a little reassured that Rab only use down that conforms with the European Down & Feather Association Codex, which makes sure that the animals are not live plucked, do not suffer pain and that the down is traceable.
EVERY MONTH, TV’S MOUNTAINMAD TOUGH GUY STEVE BACKSHALL REVIEWS THE KIT THAT HELPS HIM SURVIVE. THE QUESTION IS… CAN IT SURVIVE HIM? LONGTERM THRASH
Perfect for an extra layer during cool hillwalking lunch stops, s, for three-season camping mping and general cosiness ss in everyday life. VERDICT
MIDTERM THRASH
MIDTERM THRASH
HILLEBERG ENAN £565 USED BY detail-appreciating news and features writer, Ben Weeks USED FOR 18 months I’ve used many tents of this design and their similarity should mean they all perform equally. But they don’t. Some flap, some sag, some struggle to go up in the first place. Not the Enan. It manages to feel both lightweight (1.2kg) and strong. Hilleberg’s reputation
for quality oozes from every component and the Enan… just… works. It’s a substantial outlay, granted, but if there’s any piece of kit I’m going to spend big bucks on, it’s the one that protects me while I sleep. It’s my home from home, and I’m not going to scrimp on that. Costs a lot of VERDICT pennies but worth every single one of them.
ARCTERYX NAOS BACKPACK
PICTURE SHOWS THE NAOS 85; SADLY STEVE’S ACTUAL BACKPACK NO LONGER EXISTS.
A good insulated jacket is a considered purchase with the painful price tags they carry. And I have learnt a couple of things, and wasted a few pounds, on my own purchases over the years. If I could go back in time knowing what I know now, I would firstly choose down over synthetic. Down is supremely packable, light, warm, and just, well, super comfy and cosy. For me, synthetic just doesn’t compare. Secondly, I would pick a garment with a hood – it becomes screamingly obvious when it’s freezing cold, your body is nice and warm, but the beanie on your noggin just isn’t cutting the mustard.
If there is one bit of gear in my life that I could class as lifechanging without being accused of hyperbole it’s this. Over the years many manufacturers have attempted to make a truly waterproof pack, and either failed in its ability to repel water, or in its functionality. The Naos was the first pack that carried 100 litres of gear more comfortably than any conventional pack I’ve ever owned… but was totally, 100%, waterproof. So much so that you could just wander into a raging Arctic river without even considering whether your sleeping bag was about to take a dunking! It completely transformed how I did expeditions, all of a sudden free to simply use my bivvi bag rather than a tent, as I could leave my gear in it overnight and know it would stay dry. Sadly they don’t make this remarkable bit of kit anymore, and my Naos fell apart after eight years of punishment. Come on Arc’teryx, it is the best bit of gear you have ever made! > Check out Steve's tweets @SteveBackshall
NOVEMBER 2017 TRAIL 101
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ACTIVITY & WALKING HOLIDAY
DIRECTORY
CUMBRIA & LAKE DISTRICT
FIND OUT MORE
JOIN BASSETLAW HILL AND MOUNTAIN CLUB FOR ALL YOUR MOUNTAIN ACTIVITIES
Hiking and Activity Holidays.
Enquiries: bhmcwelcome@gmail.com Or visit our Facebook page
HIKE-SPAIN
KESWICK CRANFORD HOUSE Keswick
Comfortable, friendly guest house close to town centre. Ideal base for walkers and cyclists. We also offer secure cycle storage and packed lunches.
Caminito del Rey, El Torcal, Monachil and Granada.
Tel: 017687 71017
www.cranfordhouse.co.uk
spainhike@gmail.com www.hike-spain.com Go Self-guided in the Lake District
RETAILERS Between Ullswater and Windermere. Scandinavian lodges on a unique, small, secluded site, nestled in a quiet corner of the Lakes. Week, midweek and weekend breaks available. Ideally situated for both Helvellyn and High Street ranges.
WAtreks.com
www.hartsop-fold.co.uk bookings@hartsop-fold.co.uk Telephone: 07917 784977 Patterdale, Cumbria CA11 0NZ
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CLOTHING & EQUIPMENT
YORKSHIRE
COURSES
SPECIALIST OUTDOOR FABRICS & ACCESSORIES
The Blue Bell Inn
info@WAtreks.com / 016974 78443
• Water resistant and breathable fabrics • Wind resistant microfibres • Technical fleeces and thermal fabrics • PVC coated polyesters,
clear window fabric • Extensive range of buckles, webbing and clips etc. • Threads, patterns, water resistant zips • Repair products and seam seal tape
Fast Mail Order Service :
www.pennineoutdoor.co.uk Pennine Outdoor Fabrics Ltd. Central Buildings, Main Street, Bentham, Lancaster LA2 7HE Tel: 015242 63377
Bed and breakfast Small local pub, local sourced food and cask ales Directly on the coast to coast walk from St Bees to Robin Hoods Bay Open 11.30 everyday
Phone 01609 882272 www.thebluebellinninglebycross.co.uk
for the finest British Alpaca socks
Ingleby Cross Northallerton North Yorkshire DL6 3NF
SCOTLAND
FORT WILLIAM BUNREE HOLIDAY COTTAGES Onich 8 miles south of Fort William, 1/2 way between Ben Nevis and Glencoe by the shores of Loch Linnhe at the Corran Narrows. Panoramic views, 2 cottages, 2 apartments, sleeps 4 in each. STB 3 stars Commended. All mod cons ie. Colour TV, microwave. EXCELLENT TOURING BASE FOR SOMETHING DIFFERENT EACH DAY
INSTRUCTOR TRAINING COURSES CLIMBING WALL AWARD CLIMBING WALL LEADING AWARD SINGLE PITCH AWARD LOWLAND LEADER AWARD HILL & MOORLAND LEADER AWARD MOUNTAIN LEADER AWARD OUTDOOR 1ST AID MOUNTAINEERING CLIMBING SKILLS TRAINING
Tel: 07710 345322 OR SEE: WWW.MOUNTAIN-ACTIVITIES.CO.UK
tel: 01886 853615
For brochure Phone/Fax 01855 821359 WWW.HOLIDAY-HOMES.ORG Janika@btinternet.com www.holiday-homes.org
NOVEMBER 2017 TRAIL 103
OVERSEAS TRAVEL
OVERSEAS TRAVEL
ESCAPE TO THE WINTER SUN Hiking adventures in Southern Spain. • Guided Walking • Fully Inclusive
www.activeandalus.com
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WA L K
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www.livefortheoutdoors.com SNOWDONIA
Gwern Gof Isaf Campsite Campsite in the heart of Snowdonia just outside Capel Curig
Ideal as a base for The Glyders, Carneddau, Tryfan, Snowdon, Zip World and Surf Snowdonia l Camping £6 per person per night l Tangerine bell tent sleeps 2 £55pn (2 night minimum) l Glamping (bell tent sleeps up to 4) £80 per night
Let us take you on the paths less travelled…
l Glamping (shepherds hut sleeps up to 4) price on enquiry l Bunkhouse (sleeps up to 18) £14 per person per night l Tal Y Waun holiday cottage (sleeps up to 7) Available through cottages.com
WORLDWIDE TREKKING, CYCLING & MOUNTAINEERING
0800 0744 135 worldexpeditions.co.uk
104 TRAIL NOVEMBER 2017
l Toilets, showers, indoor washing up room, charge lockers. l Outdoor groups and families welcomed. No large groups, no dogs.
01690 720276 Kirstywills87@gmail.com Gwerngofisaf.co.uk
RETAILERS
RETAILERS
An independent outlet for the East Midlands
MSR tents on display
High quality outdoor gear for the experienced and for those just starting their journey
5 Clapgun Street, Castle Donington DE74 2LE
tel: (01332) 850777 www.doningtonoutdoors.com
ANDREW STANLEY
Clinical Director and State Registered PODIATRIST Andrew Stanley BSc (Hons) PodM MChSSRCh
Leg or foot problems?
Leg or foot problems?
Common walking
g Trail’s expert can help! He offers: injuriesPatellae Chondromalacia ◆ Digital treadmill walking analysis (Settle only) correction of foot www.reboundclinic.co.uk Iliotibial band Trail’s expert can help! He offers: All foot problems ◆ Walking/posture correction and leg injuries. or for a brochure and appointments syndrome ◆ Single visit treatments 01729 Plantarfactis 825900 ◆ Digital treadmill walking analysis Hip Pain ◆ Custom-made orthoses ‘while you wait’ (heel pain)
www.reboundclinic.co.uk or for a brochure and appointments Rebound Clinic, The Sidings, Settle, ◆ On-site workshop ensuring comfortable fit Lower back pain
N Yorks BD24 9RP ◆ Walking/posture correction 01729 825900 Clinic, gait TheSidings, Settle, N Yorks 9PRnow at George Fisher in Keswick as well (Settle only)BD24 ◆ OrthoticsRebound tested in video laboratory We are Deep Calf Pain
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NOVEMBER 2017 TRAIL 105
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ROUTES THE BEST HILLWALKS BY EXPERTS WALK HERE THIS WEEKEND
Glen Coul 10 11
Where to walk this month... Welcome to Trail’s routes section: your cut-out-and-keep guide to the best days in the UK hills. Whether it’s an airy mountain scramble, a classic Lakeland fellwalk or a multi-day backpacking epic, you’ll find it here... written by experts, walked by you.
TOM BAILEY
The summit of Mellbreak p116
Ben MacDui 5 Creag Follais 6 Walk of a lifetime Glen Rosa Round 1 Ennerdale
Ridge guide Moel Siabod
Lorton 7 8 9
Aran Fawddwy 3
2 Snowdon
4 Cranmere Pool
EDITED BY JENNA MARYNIAK (JENNA .MARYNIAK@BAUERMEDIA .CO.UK)
TRAIL ROUTES use OS mapping and gradient profiles, and are available to download at www.lfto.com/routes NOVEMBER 2017 TRAIL 107
Yourof month
p137
routes
...a superb ridge on Snowdonia’s most underrated podium?
ARE YOU SEEKING...
TOM BAILEY
VIEW WITH A ROOM
DOL PERIS, LLANBERIS Combining the luxury of a guesthouse, with the facilities of self-catering – this could be the perfect combination for Snowdonialovers on a budget. You would be forgiven for thinking that the impressive Dol Peris, standing in the centre of lake-side Llanberis village, surrounded by magnificent Snowdonian vistas, is the preserve of luxury-seekers only. In fact, the guesthouse
108 TRAIL NOVEMBER 2017
offers simple but comfortable accommodation from £30 a person, per night. Operating on a self-catering basis, there are 10
newly-refurbished private rooms, with bed linen and towels provided. Six are en suite, with the choice of single, double, triple or quadruple rooms. A large well-equipped shared kitchen, well-stocked with tea and coffee, allows you to self-cater, and a dining and sitting room are provided.
...adventure on a compact hill with a broad summit?
A P R È S WA L K
KEITH FERGUS
GLENMORE LODGE
p121
...a wild, high walk with breathtaking views?
MATTHEW PIKE
p115
DONE ROUTE 5 IN THE CAIRNGORMS? Head to the Glenmore Lodge set deep in the Cairngorms to get away from it all in this stunning playground of outdoor adventure. The Lodge is Scotland’s National Outdoor Training Centre, so you could choose to upskill on a world-class mountaineering, first aid, mountain biking, skiing or kayaking course … or you can just use it as a superb B&B base for a multitude of mountainous possibilities right from the doorstep. There’s a bar serving decent evening meals, or you can even get a massage or hire your kit. www.glenmorelodge.org.uk
TACKLING ROUTES 7-9 FROM LORTON?
THE LOWDOWN
Owners Phil (mountain instructor and international mountain guide) and Lisa George run an outdoors activities company (www.phillgeorge.com) and are keen to offer affordable and comfortable lodgings for outdoors folk. Wet outdoor kit is provided for in a dedicated drying room, and children are welcome. You can even walk up Snowdon from the doorstep; it’s everything you need for a great Snowdonian break.
Wi-Fi Yes Board Self-catering Mobile reception Yes Child friendly Yes
WHEATSHEAF INN
Where High Street, Llanberis Gwynedd LL55 4HA Rooms 10, accommodating 24 – from single to quadruple. Six rooms are en suite Facilities A wellequipped kitchen, lounge and also dining room
Dog-friendly No Walks A superb base for hillwalking in Snowdonia, with walks up Snowdon possible from the doorstep
Head to Lorton’s walker-friendly Wheatsheaf Inn. Not only is it surrounded by fabulous scenery in every direction, viewed perfectly with beer in hand from the garden; it also serves hearty, fire-side, home-made grub to fill your belly after a long day on the hill. Dogs and children are welcomed and you can choose from a wide variety of accommodation – including camping, caravanning or a self-catering cottage. Check opening times during the week. www.wheatsheafinnlorton.co.uk
NOVEMBER 2017 TRAIL 109
November Choose the best route for you... 11 EXPERT WRITTEN GUIDES TO THE BEST WALKS
We have taken all reasonable steps to ensure Trail Routes are safe and correctly described. However things do change and all outdoor activities involve a degree of risk. The publishers accept no responsibility for any errors or omissions or for any injuries or accidents that occur while following these routes.
Jeremy Ashcroft
Hannah James
Keith Fergus
Matthew Pike
Ex-Trail staffer Hannah Outdoors writer based in loves going back to her Snowdonia after five years’ exploring New Zealand. Welsh roots.
Trail’s mountaineering editor and a veteran of every classic UK route.
Author of 15 guidebooks to Scotland’s isles and coastline walks.
Richard Down
If it's a knotty and wild bit of Cumbria you're after, just ask Rich.
Peter Edwards
Simon Ingram
Trail‘s editor has extensive experience of Britain’s wildest places.
Ben James
Scottish Isles expert, and Keen mountaineer and author of three Cicerone a lover of expeditions guides to the region. and the great outdoors.
STRENUOUSNESS
How tired will this route make me? The times quoted for Trail Routes are based on estimates of 4km per hour, plus 30 min for every 300m of ascent, with another hour for rests every 8 hours. The blocks give you an at-a-glance guide: l Quickie ll Short day lll Full day llll Very full day lllll Endurance test
Hill-bagging stats Walking the Wainwrights, the Munros, the Corbetts or the Welsh 3000ers? These routes have got you covered.
NAVIGATION Strenuousness l l l l l Navigation lllll Technicality lllll Wainwrights 1 Trail 100s 1
Gradient profile We map every route for its unique gradient profile, giving you a pinpoint impression of its progressive steepness and the heights you’ll hit.
What are the Trail 100? They’re your tick-list of the 100 UK mountains you MUST climb! Download the full list from: LFTO.com/trail100
Always take a map on the hill We aim to provide the most accurate information, but you must ALWAYS use an Ordnance Survey or Harvey map on the hill and double-check any directions against it.
!
BEFORE YOU GO...
If you’re likely to encounter snow or ice on your walk you need to take precautions. You MUST have ice axe, crampons and the skills to use them and navigate in winter, and you should check In association with
OS Maps
110 TRAIL NOVEMBER 2017
weather forecasts and avalanche forecasts (www.sais.gov.uk) before heading into the mountains. Visit Mountain Weather Information Service www.mwis.org.uk
How tricky is this route to follow? l Clear, well-marked paths in a valley or following a linear feature like Hadrian’s Wall ll Valley, moor or mountain paths that are normally clear but low cloud could affect your ability to follow lll Almost pathless in valleys; less clear paths on moors and mountains, but generally following clearly defined hill shapes llll Some paths but not clear, not well used or some confusion possible lllll Open moorland, mountain plateau or crag without paths. Route confusion likely and close attention to navigation needed at all times
TECHNICALITY – WALKS
How difficult will I find it? l Easy walking in gentle countryside ll Unthreatening slopes with no exposure lll Typical Lakes fellwalk – rough, rocky ground, bogs and steeper slopes llll Steep, rough ground and scree. Some exposure lllll Hands required for at least one move – airy and steep throughout
TECHNICALITY – SCRAMBLES/CLIMBS l Grade 1 scramble ll Grade 2 scramble lll Grade 3 scramble llll Grade 3S scramble or Diff climb lllll V Diff climb (Look for extra winter warnings on red-graded routes)
GET TRAIL ROUTES* ONLINE & ON YOUR PHONE! Trail has partnered with Ordnance Survey's OS Maps to bring you the ultimate interactive routes experience. Subscribers to Trail get free access to OS Maps, where you can view and print 1:50,000 and 1:25,000 OS maps at no extra cost, plan your own walks and view this month's routes online. In addition, the free OS Maps navigation app
for smartphones and tablets turns this online tool into a powerful navigation aid. Subscribers can upload their own routes, download the routes from the magazine and browse more than 1,000 more from previous issues. See page 68 for details of how to subscribe, or visit www.livefortheoutdoors.com/routes
(*Sorry, Walks of a Lifetime is not available.)
ROUTE STATS
ROUTE 1 NOVEMBER 2017
Lake District 19km/11.8 miles 7 hours ROUTE STATS
Strenuousness l l l l l Navigation lllll Technicality lllll Wainwrights 3
Haycock and Ennerdale
Diverse landscapes, sparkling rivers, summits and valley floors make this part of the Lake District a great place for adventuring, says Jeremy Ashcroft.
T
he re-wilding of Ennerdale is having a dramatic effect. Long gone are the soul-sapping ranks of blanket conifers and overgrazed fells, replaced by a rapidly developing landscape of mixed woodland, glades, sparkling rivers and rough craggy mountain slopes. It's an extraordinary place to explore and although the project is still developing, the result so far is exciting to witness. However, the project is on such a large scale, the only way to take it all in is to explore it from above as well as within. A network of old and new paths along the valley bottom satisfy the within bit and covering the above bit makes a perfect excuse to walk the lonely summits on Ennerdale’s south-western fringe. These summits occupy a dog-leg ridge culminating in the rather grand, but often overlooked, summit of Haycock. A steady succession of diverse summits lead in a pleasant set of steps up the ridge to
Angler’s Crag, a striking feature above the calm waters of Ennerdale. JOHN JAMES / ALAMY
Haycock, after which an old packhorse route leads you down into Ennerdale’s wild depths. For the walk out, an easy path
navigates through maturing woodland, past crystal clear becks and beside the wave-lapped shore of Ennerdale Water.
NOVEMBER 2017 TRAIL 111
STEWART SMITH / ALAMY
The blue waters of Ennerdale – and Crag Fell overlooking them.
Lake District
ROUTE 1 NOVEMBER 2017
Always take a map out with you on the hill
19km/11.8 miles 7 hours
Dumfries ewart Carlisle Keswick
Penrith
Windermere Kendal Inglet Ben
©CROWN COPYRIGHT 2017 ORDNANCE SURVEY. MEDIA 001/17
Lancast
Distance 19km (11.8 miles) Total ascent 1165m Time 7 hours Start/finish Bleach Green car park, Ennerdale (NY085153) Nearest town Whitehaven Terrain River and lakeside paths, steep and rough fellside, rounded ridges, forestry, broad cols, grassy summits and rocky steps Maps OS Landranger 89 (1:50 000); OS Explorer OL4 & 6 (1:25 000) Accommodation Whitehaven and Cleator Moor have B&Bs and hotels. The closest hostel is YHA Ennerdale Gillerthwaite 0345 371 9116 www.yha.org.uk; Campsite Routen Farm (01946) 861270 or email soozeds31@btinternet. com; Wild camping is allowed in Ennerdale, email gareth.browning@ forestry.gsi.gov.uk seven days before your visit Public transport Trains to Whitehaven then bus to Ennerdale Bridge, www.cumbria.gov.uk, 0871 200 2233, www.traveline.info Guidebooks The Western Fells by A Wainwright pb Frances Lincoln www.cordee.co.uk Tourist info Egremont TIC (01946) 820693 www.golakes. co.uk Best pub The Shepherds Arms (01946) 861249, shepherdsarms.com
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OS Maps
112 TRAIL NOVEMBER 2017
NY085153 From the car park a path leads past the trees towards a bend in the River Ehen; follow it to the outflow of Ennerdale Water. Ignore the path over the bridge; instead take the path around the lakeshore for 500m to a junction.
1
NY092150 Take the upper path that climbs to the promontory above Angler’s Crag. This is a great place to stop and admire; you can see the entire length of Ennerdale Water and to the peaks in the dale beyond. From a shoulder behind the promontory, climb steeply south‑west up the fellside and part way up the path fork take the left‑hand path, which leads up past scree to enter a shallow rake. From here you should get a close up look of Crag Fell Pinnacles. Continue up the rake and follow it as it pops out above Revelin Crag to join another path from Ben Gill. Turn left onto the path and follow above the crag edge to the summit of Crag Fell.
On Haycock, looking towards the Irish Sea.
JON SPARKS / ALAMY
ROUTE STATS
2
first good view of Haycock. Rejoin the wall‑side path and follow it south across a broad col to the rounded summit of Caw Fell. NY131109 The summit of Caw Fell is a rather bare stony plateau marked only by a cairn and crossed by a fence and wall. There is a stile to access the summit, and again it’s a place worth exploring to get the best of the views. It’s also worth exploring if you are interested in
NY097143 From Crag Fell a path descends south‑east, follow it down to the forest where it connects with a bridleway. Turn left onto this then turn immediately right onto a firebreak. A rough path leads along the firebreak and is followed until it exits the forest at a stile. A drystone wall heads south‑east, follow the path beside it all the way until a gate allows access to the summit of Iron Crag. This summit is fairly extensive, and is worth exploring to get the best of the surrounding views; from it you get your
METRES ABOVE SEA LEVEL
MILES KILOMETRES
Start
1
3
0 0
6
aircraft crash sites. Wreckage from an Airspeed Oxford, which struck the summit in low cloud on a training exercise in 1941, is still present today. At this point the main Ennerdale skyline ridge makes a sharp turn. On the south side of the fence/wall follow the crest east over a shallow dip, then up the rock steps
Crag Fell
2 2
NY132137 Cross the Woundell Beck bridge and take the path that heads west all the way around the southern shore of Ennerdale Water and back to the car park at Bleach Green.
6
2
3
1400 1200 1000 800 600 400 200
NY144107 Haycock is the high point of the day, both in terms of elevation and views. It gives a magnificent overview of both Ennerdale and Wasdale. There isn’t a shelter but the wall does offer a break from the wind if it’s blowing hard. It's a great spot to stop for lunch and spend a bit of time peering across Wasdale towards Scafell and Scafell Pike. From the summit descend east to the broad col that separates
5
4
1
GRADIENT PROFILE
Haycock from Scoat Fell. The col is crossed by an ancient (and now little used) packhorse route. Turn left and follow the bridleway as it descends north in a traverse line across the broad ridge to Tewit How. The bridleway then starts to trend north‑west and leads down to the trees. Follow it through the trees to a bridge over Woundell Beck.
of Little Gowder Crag to gain the huge domed summit of Haycock.
Caw Fell
3 2
4
4 4
6
4
8
Haycock
5
Tewit How
Finish
6
5 6
10
12
8
14
10 16
18
ROUTE 2 NOVEMBER 2017
Snowdonia 17.7km/11 miles 6 hours ROUTE STATS
Strenuousness l l l l l Navigation lllll Technicality lllll Welsh 3000s 1 Trail 100s 1
Snowdon from the NW
Enjoy this sensationally popular mountain from a different, less crowded angle with an ascent of Moel Cynghorion first, says Hannah James.
I
f you want to try Snowdon but want to avoid some of the crowds, this is a route to consider. Climbing out of Llanberis you’ll reach a beautiful valley path, which climbs its way to the col between Foel Goch and Moel Cynghorion. You’ll find yourself on a peaceful walk up to the col, before turning left and tackling the steady climb of Moel Cynghorion. The ground is easy going and the views are spectacular, with the Clogwyn Du’r Arddu cliff (which has the Snowdon Ranger path above) looking sharp and tempting before you. In the distance you’ll see the bustling and crowded Llanberis path traversing the slopes alongside the train. Once you’ve taken in the views, start winding your way down before joining the Snowdon Ranger Path and following it to the summit of Snowdon. Take the Llanberis track in descent before skirting away from the crowds again and descending the last section in peace, through beautiful forestry down into town.
Arriving at the summit of Moel Cynghorion, Mynydd Mawr beyond.
NOVEMBER 2017 TRAIL 113
HANNAH JAMES
Looking towards the Snowdon Ranger Path and Llyn Ffynnon y-gwas from Moel Cynghorion.
Snowdonia
ROUTE 2 NOVEMBER 2017
Always take a map out with you on the hill
17.7km/11 miles 6 hours ROUTE STATS Conway
1
Liverpool Rhyl Bodelwydd
Betws-y-Coed
you will come out on a road. Follow to your left all the way up the valley to the col between Foel Goch and Moel Cynghorion.
2
SH609543 Follow the path back the way you’ve come but stay on the Llanberis path. It’s signposted but be careful not to swing too far to the right up Crib-y-Ddysgl. Follow the path the whole way down.
4
SH572558 Go through the gate in the col and turn immediately left. Follow the fence line to the summit of Moel
3
Llangollen
Barmouth
5
Aberystwyth
The woody lower reaches of Snowdon near Llanberis.
©CROWN COPYRIGHT 2017 ORDNANCE SURVEY. MEDIA 001/17
Distance 17.7km (11 miles) Total ascent 1171m Time 6 hours Start/finish SH580600 Nearest town Llanberis Terrain Good paths and terrain, unclear over Moel Cynghorion but there's a fence to guide the way Maps OS Explorer (1;25,000) OL17 Accommodation The Royal Victoria Hotel, Llanberis (01286) 870253 Public transport Snowdon Sherpa bus www.visitsnowdonia.info Tourist info Betws-yCoed TIC (01690) 710426 Best pub Pete’s Eats, Llanberis (01286) 870117
Leaving Llanberis.
3 SH581589 When you meet the road, turn right and follow down to the café on the right-hand side. Turn right into the car park and walk to the opposite end, where there’s a single-track footpath. Follow this the whole way down and you’ll reach the main road through Llanberis. Turn left and walk back into town and the visitor centre will be on the opposite side of the road, on the right.
5
SH580600 Start from the Electric Mountain Visitor Centre and cross the road. Turn left then immediately right on the fork junction into town. Turn left after the Snowdon Garage and follow the road up with a church on your right. As you come into a housed area, look out for a right turn signposted for waterfalls. Cross the cattle grid and follow the
1
road. Before the road swings sharply to the right and turns into a narrow walled track with houses beyond, take the kissing gate on the left. SH575592 Walk through the gate and follow the edge of the field to your right. Follow the arrow that indicates straight on, over two stiles. After the second
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4
Cynghorion. Cross the stile and follow the fence down to the Snowdon Ranger path. Turn left and follow the path to Snowdon’s summit.
Looking back over Moel Hebog, the Nantlle Ridge and Mynydd Mawr.
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114 TRAIL NOVEMBER 2017
GRADIENT PROFILE
METRES ABOVE SEA LEVEL
MILES KILOMETRES
Start 1400 1200 1000 800 600 400 200
1 0 0
Bwlch Maesgwm
2
Snowdon
4
3 2
2
4
Finish
6
4
8
6
10
5 12
8
14
10 16
Snowdonia
ROUTE 3 NOVEMBER 2017
19km/11.8 miles 6½ hours ROUTE STATS
The crags of Craig Cywarch: an enjoyable route with vast views in a secretive location – what more could you want?
Aran Fawddwy Traverse Snowdonia’s secretive Aran Fawddwy’s ‘unfashionable’ location is one of its many strengths, discovers Matthew Pike. And this route takes in many more...
I
n the south-eastern corner of Snowdonia is a series of steep grass hills with flat moor-topped summits, which are soft and boggy underfoot. The Aran Range bucks this trend with its rocky cliff faces and craggy peaks poking 250m higher than its easterly neighbours. The highest in the range is Aran Fawddwy – a summit often overlooked due to it falling agonisingly short of the esteemed Welsh 3000s (9.5m short, to be precise) and being located in the unfashionable end of the National Park. But it’s a great climb, and views are vast, with the park’s northern
summits visible in the distance, and Cadair Idris and the Rhinogs bursting up from the horizon (Rhinog Fach’s ‘table-top’ summit contrasts beautifully with neighbouring Rhinog Fawr’s pyramidal shape).
This walk involves a long, steady ascent with the striking face of Craig Cywarch looming behind. Near the top is a memorial to RAF Mountain Rescue team member Michael Robert Aspain, who was struck by lightning there Craggy peaks and rocks are the in 1960. After topping focus of this walk. Aran Fawddwy, the going is easier, as you summit Aran Benllyn before the long, gradual descent to Llanuwchllyn village, with views over Arenig Fawr and Llyn Tegid (Bala Lake). This walk is best using two cars, but failing that there are buses that take you from Llanuwchllyn back to Dinas Mawddwy if you’re prepared to start early.
NOVEMBER 2017 TRAIL 115
MATTHEW PIKE
Strenuousness l l l l l Navigation lllll Technicality lllll Trail 100s 1
Snowdonia
ROUTE 3 NOVEMBER 2017
Always take a map out with you on the hill
19km/11.8 miles 6½ hours ROUTE STATS Conway
Liv Rhyl Bodelwydd
Betws-y-Coed
Llangollen
Barmouth Aberystwyth
Distance 19km (11.8 miles) Total ascent 1170m Time 6½ hours Start If using a bus: Dinas Mawddwy village car park (SH858149); or if using two cars (SH852188) Finish Llanuwchllyn village car park (SH879297) Nearest town Dolgellau Terrain Grassy and rocky underfoot, never very steep nor exposed. The path is faint but generally easy to follow Maps OS Explorer (1:25,000) OL23; OS Landranger (1:50,000) 125; Harvey Superwalker (1:25,000) Snowdonia: Arans Accommodation Buckley Arms Hotel, Dinas Mawddwy, (01650) 531261; Celyn Brithion Caravan and Camping Site, Dinas Mawddwy, (01650) 531344; Bwchyn-Uchaf, Llanuwchllyn, (01678) 540983
©CROWN COPYRIGHT 2017 ORDNANCE SURVEY. MEDIA 001/17
Public transport TrawsCymru T3 and 33 buses from Llanuwchllyn to Dinas Mawddwy except on Sundays (last connection 3pm). Llanuwchllyn and Dinas Mawddwy served by buses from Dolgellau Guidebooks Mountain Walking Snowdonia, by Terry Fletcher, pb Cicerone Press Tourist info Dolgellau TIC (01341) 422888 Best pub The Red Lion/Y Llew Coch, Dinas Mawddwy (01650) 531247; The Eagles Inn, Llanuwchllyn (01678) 540278
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116 TRAIL NOVEMBER 2017
SH858149 From the car park head to the road and turn left. Follow it out of the village and continue until crossing Afon Cywarch, straight after which turn left along a lane, following the sign to Cwm Cywarch. Continue up the valley crossing Afon Cywarch once, then eventually reaching a track forking right through a ford. If using two vehicles (and therefore don’t need to leave your car close to the bus stop in Dinas Mawddwy), you could park in the car park at SH879297. Upon leaving this car park, turn right at the lane to soon reach the ford.
terrific view back down the valley from which you just climbed.
1
SH852186 Cross via the footbridge and stick to the main path which starts to climb before joining a pleasant grass path just before a step stile. The path gradually ascends up the valley side. When it forks, keep right heading over a step stile and keeping the fence close to your left.
8
6
5
METRES ABOVE SEA LEVEL
MILES KILOMETRES
SH862224 Locate the path just off the summit and continue in the same direction as before, dropping steeply at first into a gully, then climbing again and continuing to the right of a fence. Shortly after reaching a cairn (at the unnamed 872m summit) climb over a step stile and continue with the fence now on your right. Pass a rocky peak to your right (worth
2
North towards Llyn Tegid (Bala Lake), from between Points 6 and 7.
Drysgol
2
1 0 0
2
SH876291 Continue downhill through the middle of a field, over one more step stile, and turn left along a lane. At the end, turn left and the village car park is on your right. Should you need it, the nearest bus stop is a little further on the left.
8
1
Start 1400 1200 1000 800 600 400 200
SH874280 Shortly before Garth Fawr, at a drystone wall, take a stile left then another stile right and continue to the left of Garth Fawr summit. Climb over another drystone wall, then continue through a field along a grass path. Veer right when this joins a larger path and continue, crossing two step stiles and passing a wind turbine to your left.
7
5
3
SH862196 Continue gradually uphill when the fence bends left, following the path until eventually arriving at a boggy saddle between Aran Fawddwy and Waun Goch, where the path swings left following a wide ridge uphill. After a step stile the path forks – take either fork and continue with the fence on your right to the memorial, from where there’s a
GRADIENT PROFILE
4
4
3
SH865241 Drop from the summit with the fence on your left and continue past the scenic little lake of Llyn Pen Aran to a rocky outcrop with excellent views over Llyn Tegid. Follow the knobbly ridge downhill, staying mostly to the left of the ridge top and crossing numerous step stiles on the way down.
6
SH863213 Fork right, sticking to the fence. When this bends left, climb the step stile and head more or less directly uphill, following one of a number of paths to a summit. Veer right at the top, walking along the ridge with a fence a little way to the left. The path weaves through rocks before the final little climb to the summit of Aran Fawddwy.
7
2
clambering up for a view), then cross two step stiles and continue to the top of Aran Benllyn.
2
4
4
3 6
4
Aran Fawddwy
8
Aran Benllyn
5 6
10
6 12
8
Finish
7 14
10 16
8 18
Dartmoor
ROUTE 4 NOVEMBER 2017
21km/13 miles 7-8 hours ROUTE STATS
Cranmere Pool
Homerton Hill in north-west Dartmoor, viewed from Black Tor.
Regarded as the remotest part of Dartmoor and the source of the West Okement and East Dart rivers, Ben James takes you deep into wildest Devon!
D
artmoor is as remote as it is wild, and you often don’t have to go far to find the beauty it contains. With its massive tors and rivers cutting through them, it is an inspiring place. Cranmere Pool is regarded as the remotest part of Dartmoor, and is the birth place of the tradition of letterboxing – a kind of early form of geocaching. This route, starting from the north side of Dartmoor, has plenty of scenery to absorb,
taking you along the West Okement River and through the ancient oak woodland of Black Tor Copse. The letter box still stands
there today and sits by the pool from which it gets its name. The route is a very straightforward out and back, with worn trails for most of the way, but your navigation skills will be tested when nearing your final destination! Our route starts at the very easy to find Meldon Reservoir car park. Free parking here is a bonus – with another plus being that it has access straight onto the moor.
NOVEMBER 2017 TRAIL 117
ADAM BURTON / ALAMY
Strenuousness l l l l l Navigation lllll Technicality lllll
Dartmoor
ROUTE 4 NOVEMBER 2017
Always take a map out with you on the hill
21km/13 miles 7-8 hours ROUTE STATS Minehead
Exeter Bodmin
Plymouth
©CROWN COPYRIGHT 2017 ORDNANCE SURVEY. MEDIA 001/17
Distance 21km (13 miles) Total ascent 1400m Time 7-8 hours Start/finish Meldon Reservoir (SX561917) Nearest town Okehampton Terrain Worn paths and sheep tracks following rivers, steep sided moorland with rocky tors and boggy areas. Note: this route crosses a military firing range – look out for red flags/lamps and check firing times before you go at tinyurl.com/ dartmoorfiring Maps OS Explorer (1:25000) OL28; OS Landranger (1: 50000) 191 Accommodation All in Okehampton: Fountain Inn, (01837) 53532; Youth Hostel, 0845 371 9651; Okeside Cottage B&B, (01837) 55363 Public transport No direct bus, and no trains stop in Okehampton. Taxis are available from Okehampton to Meldon. Tourist info Okehampton TIC (01837) 53020
Ancient oak woodland of Black Tor Copse.
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118 TRAIL NOVEMBER 2017
SX561917 Leave the car park via the steps leading past the public toilets, and through the gate. Follow the road down to the trail that leads to the reservoir itself and across the dam. At the metal gate, turn right and follow the track around the reservoir. At a small bridge, continue on the track, following it around to the right, and leading you further around the reservoir.
SX563893 Follow the river into Black Tor Copse and pick your way through the oak woodland and rocks. Staying close to the river, you will soon pick up the track that leads you beyond the woodlands and into the valley between Lints Tor and Kitty Tor. The track fades here and is harder to find, but continues on the west side of Lints Tor, heading south.
SX556903 The track then descends and opens up into grassy moorland. Keep to the left-hand side of the small river on the
SX578871 Continue heading south until you meet the meanders of the river. The
1
2
3
4
river winds from the east below Great Kneeset Tor. Continue east following the meanders of the West Okement River. Again, the track here isn’t as obvious, but the worn grass banks indicate the direction.
SX599864 The river begins to narrow to a small stream, until it becomes barely visible other than a dip in the grassy terrain. As you continue south-east, it splits into two again. Cross the stream coming from the right, and follow the main source which leads to the right, and up the hill to a plateau.
6
SX592864 Below Jackmans Bottom, a tributary joins the main river from the south. Continue past this until you reach a tributary at Vergyland Combe. Cross the river here to get onto the southern side and follow the narrowing river to the south-east.
5
SX601861 Once on the plateau the river disappears with some boggy ground replacing it. From here, continue to finish at grid reference SX602858, and to the concrete letter box marking Cranmere Pool. The letter box and pool are in a large depression in the plateau and can be hard to find. From the south this is marked by some areas of exposed peat banks. Walk up and over these into the depression to find the letter box. Don’t forget to
7
Reaching the letter box at Cranmere Pool.
1
2
3
Approaching the Black Tor Copse, with the West Okement River to the right.
well-worn track, heading up the hill with woodland and a large river on your right-hand side. This is where the West Okement River falls to meet the reservoir. As you near the top of the slope, there is a wall of the old water works. Go to the right of this and follow it around until you rejoin the river. Black Tor will now be in view, with Black Tor Copse below it.
GRADIENT PROFILE
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4 6 5
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Start 1400 1200 1000 800 600 400 200
1 0 0
Kneeset Nose
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sign the book! To return, simply follow the same route out. If you wanted to return over Yes Tor and High Willhays to make it a circular route, make sure you check the range firing times (see panel, left.)
Cranmere Pool Letterbox
4
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Finish
5 6 7 5
10
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ROUTE 5 NOVEMBER 2017
Cairngorms 20km/12½ miles 7 hours ROUTE STATS
Strenuousness l l l ll Navigation l l l ll Technicality lllll Munros 2 Trail 100s 1
Ben MacDui & Cairn Gorm Britain’s second highest hill is a wild slice of the arctic. Its sixth highest isn’t quite. But here’s an exciting way to climb both, says Simon Ingram…
T
he Cairngorms Discovering the National Park is Shelter Stone. bigger than some countries. Bahrain, Singapore, Luxembourg, Andorra – the latter three could fit inside the Park’s borders together. Which, for a park within a country that is itself considered fairly small by world standards, is pretty good going. Within its 4,528km² sway, areas the size of the Lake District get misplaced and forgotten about by most of us. Among them lurk such geographical accolades as the furthest point from a road in Britain, ancient Caledonian pinewood. This route the oldest snow, the place where our doesn’t plunge into untravelled ground – though there are parts of it that certainly coldest ever temperature was recorded, feel remote enough – but it does straddle and the biggest swathe of remaining
two extremes, epitomised by the summits of Ben MacDui and Cairn Gorm. One is a wild, remote prow which takes some getting to; the other is crowned with a radio mast and is staggering distance from a mountain café. But it’s the space between these two redoubtable high points that really makes this route sing: a slingshot around Ben MacDui’s wild eastern corries, a visit to the Shelter Stone at the head of Loch Avon, and a stunning route up the side of Cairn Gorm avoiding the ski slope, railway, car park and café. Now that’s worth seeing.
NOVEMBER 2017 TRAIL 119
TOM BAILEY
Descending towards Loch Avon, Cairn Gorm centre shot.
Cairngorms
ROUTE 5 NOVEMBER 2017
Always take a map out with you on the hill
20km/12½ miles 7 hours ROUTE STATS Inverness el Bridge Aviemore Invergarry
Aber
Braemar
©CROWN COPYRIGHT 2017 ORDNANCE SURVEY. MEDIA 001/17
Distance 20km (12.5 miles) Total ascent 1519m Time 7 hours Start/Finish Cairn Gorm ski centre car park Nearest town Aviemore Terrain good paths, rocky mountain plateau, pathless corrie rims, rough valleys Maps OS Explorer (1:25,000) OL57; OS Landranger (1:50,000) 36; Harvey Superwalker (1,25,000) Cairn Gorm Accommodation Cairngorm Lodge SYHA, Glenmore (01479) 861238; plenty of B&Bs in Aviemore and Braemar; or at the other end of the scale, a good bothy at the Hutchinson Memorial Hut – or beneath the Shelter Stone if you’ve come prepared Public Transport Aviemore is an established stop for bus and rail; there are good bus links between Aviemore and the Cairngorm ski centre – look for the 31 Guidebooks Britain’s Highest Mountain Walks by Jeremy Ashcroft, pb HarperCollins Tourist info Glenmore Visitor Centre (01479) 861220 Best pub Lochain Bar, Glenmore Lodge, Glenmore (01479) 861256
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120 TRAIL NOVEMBER 2017
1
NH988060 From the ski centre car park an array of good tracks lead south, making this a great access point for the Northern Corries, the Lairig Ghru and MacDui itself. The car park also sits at 610m, so takes a thick wodge out of the ascent – you’ll be glad later! Cross a burn at the south-west of the car park to join a good track south-west. You get great views towards Coire an t-Sneachda and Cairn Gorm's Northern Corries from here. Keep right where the track splits; then at the base of Miadan Creag an Leth-choin (NH979043), take the left fork, ascending into the heights. This is the west shoulder of Cairn Lochan, and soon you’ll be powering above 1000m. A cairn announces the 1083m spot height, and the beginning of Ben MacDui’s summit plateau. From here be very careful with your navigation.
1
6
2
5 4
3 south summits of Ben Macdui. At this point turn south-west and continue to the summit, marked by a large, raised cairn. (The north summit is marked by a much smaller cairn.)
2
METRES ABOVE SEA LEVEL
MILES KILOMETRES
NN988989 In good visibility this is one of the finest places to be, with views nearby of Cairn Toul, Sgor an Lochain Uaine, Braeriach and on over the rest of the Cairngorms. In poor visibility it can be a bit stressful as the hill shapes underfoot are subtle and it’s important to get this next bit right. From the summit strike off east-south-east; there’s a path but it’s easily obscured by snowfall. This passes the ruin of the ‘Sapper’s Bothy’ – a building that gave shelter to Royal
3
Start 1400 1200 1000 800 600 400 200
Engineers during the surveying of Scotland – and from where it was finally deduced that Ben Macdui was the second highest mountain in Britain. The path gradually resolves to an easterly bearing. Be careful after 1km as you will start to approach the cliffs of Coire Sputan Dearg. Once here, turn north-east to the banks of Loch Etchachan. If you can find the burn that falls towards the loch you should be able to pick up the good path that runs alongside it. NJ012003 At the outflow of Loch Etchachan there’s a ford. For the Hutchinson Memorial Hut bothy, turn east here down steep ground for 1.2km; if not, cross the ford and
4
Ben Macdui
2
1 0 0
2
NJ002016 From the Shelter Stone descend north to the path and cross the loch’s outflow at a ford. The path swings onto the northern shore, then forks into a rising traverse. Take this to join the course of the Allt Coire Raibeirt, which climbs with muscular views to the back, onto the shoulder of Cairn Gorm. The views to the cliffs of Coire an t-Sneachda are fab. From here turn east to climb to the top of Cairn Gorm.
5
NH975024 There are crags to the north-east and very steep ground drops into the Lairig Ghru to the south-west. Your route is fairly straightforward from here but care must be taken in bad visibility. Proceed south then just east of south, crossing a boggy area where the March Burn and Feith Buidhe have their sources. Here the way becomes indistinct; your way lies through a shallow col between two spot heights, which climbs to the south-east. If you find yourself descending towards steep ground, you’ve gone wrong. Head up south-south-east until you reach the col between the north and GRADIENT PROFILE
proceed west of north alongside the impressive cliffs of Carn Etchachan. The path steepens then bears west into a dropping traverse as you enter the valley containing Loch Avon. This descends into a boulderfield at the loch’s head - look out for a large, oblong boulder of pinky granite upwards and left from the path with a dark crack beneath; this is the Shelter Stone. At the very least have a nosey.
2
Shelter Stone
4
3 4
6
4
8
6
10
Cairn Gorm
5 12
NJ005040 The summit is home to a radio transmitter and a weather station, and won’t win any beauty prizes. It doesn’t get much better, either, as following a descent directly north for just under a kilometre, you’re into the thick of the skiing infrastructure and the Ptarmigan restaurant. Lift your eyes to the vistas north, though, and you’re treated to beautiful, endlessseeming woodland and hills extending north. You can bypass the worst of the skiing mess by bearing north-west down the Sron an Aonaich ridge, which splits at around 880m. The left fork drops you directly down to the Ski Centre, through to the car park.
6
Finish
6 8
14
10 16
18
12
ROUTE 6 NOVEMBER 2017
Cairngorms 19km/12 miles 5 hours ROUTE STATS
Strenuousness l l l l l Navigation lllll Technicality lllll
Creag Follais & Creag Dubh Keith Fergus stays off the big Cairngorm summits, but still finds this superb route to the Argyll Stone has plenty to offer.
W
hen compared to its bigger Cairngorms neighbours Creag Dhubh is a much more compact mountain. With its broad summit plateau rising to 848 metres however, it should not be underestimated. The walk begins from the gorgeous location of Loch an Eilean, the Loch of the Island. The island in question is famous for its castle. It's thought that a defensive site has been here since the 13th century, with Alexander Stewart, also known as the Wolf of Badenoch, its most noted resident. The higher ground across much of this route is pathless where good navigation and map reading skills would be required in poor visibility. Nevertheless on a clear day the views are exceptional, extending across much of the Cairngorm National Park – the vista to Sgoran Dubh Mor and Braeriach is particularly striking. Just beneath the summit of Creag Dubh is one of several granite tors in the
Cairngorm National Park that have been eroded and shaped by the weather over many millennia. Rising to about 15 feet in height, The Argyll Stone is thought to have been named after Archibald Campbell, the 7th Earl of Argyll (1575 - 1638). In 1594 Campbell led his Protestant army to
defeat by the much smaller Catholic force of the Marquess of Huntly at the Battle of Glenlivet, after which, reputedly, the Earl and his men were driven south. They fled through the Cairngorms, pausing for a few moments at The Argyll Stone, or ‘Clach Mhic Calein’, before continuing to retreat. Loch an Eilean – ‘Loch of the Island'..
NOVEMBER 2017 TRAIL 121
KEITH FERGUS
The Argyll Stone proudly overlooks bigger (and smaller) neighbours...
Cairngorms
ROUTE 6 NOVEMBER 2017
Always take a map out with you on the hill
19km/12 miles 5 hours ROUTE STATS Inverness Shiel Bridge Aviemore
erie Invergarry
Aber
Braemar
am
©CROWN COPYRIGHT 2017 ORDNANCE SURVEY. MEDIA 001/17
bank of the burn, eventually rising above the treeline from where The Argyll Stone stands prominently on a ridge high above.
NH897085 From Loch an Eilein car park, where there is a small parking charge, follow a path south to reach the loch, a wonderful setting where there is a fine view of Creag Dhubh – you may be fortunate to spot osprey in and around Loch an Eilean while Loch an Eilean Castle sits out on the water. There is also an excellent shop and visitor centre. Turn left, follow a path alongside the loch and over a bridge into the woodland of Rothiemurchus. Beyond an attractive red-roofed cottage, go through a gate after which the track splits. Keep right through another gate (left is signed for Gleann Eanaich, the return journey) and continue southwest for 1.5km. Cross a footbridge over a burn then, after 100 metres, go left onto a path beside Loch Gamhna.
1
Distance 19km (12 miles) Total ascent 730m Time 5 hours Start/finish Loch an Eilean car park, 3.25km south of Inverdruie (NH897085) Nearest town Aviemore Terrain good paths initially then rougher paths, open hillside, easy ground then firm tracks provide a simple return Maps OS Explorer (1:25,000) OL57; OS Landranger (1:50,000) 36; Harveys Maps Cairngorms & Lochnagar Accommodation Cairngorm Lodge Youth Hostel, Glenmore www.syha.org.uk (01479) 861238; The Cairngorm Hotel, www. cairngorm.com (01479) 810233; MacKenzies Highland Inn, www. mackenzieshighlandinn. co.uk (01479) 810672 Public transport none to start. Train: services from Glasgow, Edinburgh and Inverness to Aviemore. Bus: service G10 between Glasgow and Inverness to Aviemore, M91 between Edinburgh and Inverness to Aviemore. Service 31 from Aviemore to Inverdruie. This leaves 2 miles (3.25km) to Loch an Eilean www. travelinescotland.com Guidebooks Cairngorms Outstanding Circular Walks by Peter KochOsborne, Neil Wilson and John Brooks pb Pathfinder
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122 TRAIL NOVEMBER 2017
A final, gentle rise attains Creag Dhubh - a small cairn lies at the northern edge of the ridge. Again a wonderful vista extends to the Northern Corries and Meall a Bhuachaille.
NH900043 At the head of a ravine, where the burn peters out, leave the path and head west across anklehigh heathery slopes. This is soon replaced with shorter vegetation, bearing north-west to the summit of Creag Follais and a fine view to Loch Alvie and Carn Sgulain.
4
Once over the knoll drop down to a track above the glen. NH924048 Turn left and continue through one of the most scenic parts of the National Park. After
7
NH906043 The descent remains pathless as it runs north then north-east for 1.5km, along a scenic ridge, with extensive views over Loch an Eilean and Speyside.
6
Walking through Gleann Eanaich.
1
2
NH894072 Follow this for 150 metres. Here keep left onto a path which heads south-west through more stunning woodland. After another 1km cross Allt Coire Follais (no problems when the river level is low) then take a narrow path on the left after a further 150 metres.
2
3 7 5
4 6
NH886055 The route now becomes a little overgrown and rough underfoot (although it’s always clear) as it climbs south-east through heather. As height is gained, marvellous views open out north over Loch Gamhna. Soon the path, flanked with blaeberry, bog cotton and common spotted orchid runs alongside Allt Coire Follais, which is soon crossed – a little care is required when doing so. Keep on along the north
3
GRADIENT PROFILE
METRES ABOVE SEA LEVEL
MILES KILOMETRES
NH892043 Much of the tough work is done and it is now a gradual climb south-east across an exposed plateau. When the ridge veers north-east an easy climb gains The Argyll Stone and a fabulous view along Gleann Eanaich towards Sgoran Dubh Mor and Braeriach.
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Start 1400 1200 1000 800 600 400 200
0 0
In poor weather a good eye would have to be kept on navigation. Once across Cadha Mor bear right and descend south-east towards Gleann Eanaich, aiming for a rounded grassy knoll just north of Allt Ruigh na Sroine – steep ground to the left.
Creag Follais
2
1 2
1.75km the main Gleann Eanaich track is reached and here turn left. After a further 1.75km, pass through a gate beside Lochan Deo. Keep left onto a track which then splits. Go left, continue for another 100 metres to a junction, turn left and walk back to the outward-bound track beside Loch an Eilein. Turn right and retrace steps back to the start.
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Creag Dhubh
Finish
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Lake District
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Vale of Lorton This gateway to Buttermere opens up a playground of mountains with extraordinary views and satisfying climbs, says Richard Down.
T
he three lakes of the Buttermere valley are crowded by some of England’s most impressive mountains. Lorton is a quiet village at the head of the Buttermere valley which makes the perfect base for a weekend among this imposing array of fells. The broken tusk of Mellbreak erupts from Crummock Water no further than three miles away, whilst the rocky pyramid of Hopegill Head looms even closer. On the doorstep is Low Fell, described by Wainwright as “a connoisseur’s hill” for its astonishing views, which extend to Great Gable high above Haystacks at the head of this valley. If it’s a weekend of varied mountain action you’re after, and you fancy somewhere off the beaten track and yet with a selection of good pubs, then Lorton could be your perfect location.
TRANSPORT The Stagecoach 77 bus from Keswick runs through Lorton and along the length of the Buttermere valley – www. stagecoachbus.com; by train Workington Railway Station (www.nationalrail.co.uk) has links to Carlisle and Lancaster; local taxi Cockermouth Taxi Co. (01900) 826649
J
ROUTE 7
Dumfries Newton Stewart raer
Mellbreak
Carlisle Keswick
Penrith
M
Windermere Kendal LORTON
Ingleton Bentham
Lancaster
Skipt
ROUTE 8 Hopegill Head
ROUTE 9 Loweswater Fell
PUBS/GRUB Wheatsheaf Inn, Lorton (01900) 85199 www.wheatsheafinnlorton. co.uk; The Kirkstile Inn (01900) 85219 www.kirkstile.com; plenty of options in Cockermouth (10 minutes by car)
ACCOMMODATION Whinfell Hall Farm Campsite (01900) 85260 www. lakedistrictcampsites.co.uk; The Wheatsheaf Inn Campsite (01900) 85199; The Kirkstile Inn offers good accommodation; several B&Bs operate in High and Low Lorton, visit www. tripadvisor.co.uk for details; the nearest YHA is between Crummock Water and Buttermere www.yha.org.uk PRACTICALITIES The Wheatsheaf Inn runs a village shop providing basic groceries. Cockermouth has full facilities: supermarkets, independent shops, petrol, banks and Post Office. TOURIST INFO Cockermouth Tourist Information is based in the town library (01900) 822634 www.cockermouth.org.uk
Liverpool
NOVEMBER 2017 TRAIL 123
RICHARD DOWN
Grasmoor (right) from the northern face of Mellbreak.
Lake District
ROUTE 7 NOVEMBER 2017
Always take a map out with you on the hill
10.3km/6miles 4 hours
Mellbreak
The Vale of Lorton from Mellbreak.
NY141209 There are often parking spaces at Church Bridge near The Kirkstile Inn. From here follow the singletrack road through Kirkgate Farm and along drystone wall-lined drovers’ roads until you reach a gateway near Flass Wood.
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ROUTE STATS
©CROWN COPYRIGHT 2017 ORDNANCE SURVEY. MEDIA 001/17
Strenuousness Navigation Technicality
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Distance 10.3km (6 miles) Total ascent 590m Time 4 hours Start/finish Kirkstile Inn (NY141209) Terrain rough track gives way to a very steep scree-lined path; boggy sections to summit and lower reaches, rough singletrack paths, fields, some stream crossings Maps OS Explorer (1:25,000) OL4; OS Landranger (1:50,000) 90 Guidebooks A Pictorial Guide to the Lakeland Fells: The Western Fells, A Wainwright, pb Francis Lincoln
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1
NY139202 Pass through the gate and directly upwards on a grassy break between the trees, emerging on open ground beneath Mellbreak itself. Follow the broad green path to the foot of several scree chutes. Ignore the urge to cut corners and follow the zigzag stony path that weaves alongside the scree. The path rises very steeply on Raven Crag. Pass over the northern summit and head across the saddle to the higher south top.
2
NY148185 At the south summit, take the more defined path that slaloms down steep grassy slopes. Keep the faith and at around 300 metres the path bears right before dropping down to Black Beck.
2 7 Mellbreak from the Kirkstile Inn.
bits before the path becomes well-worn and hugs the shores of the lake itself. NY149201 After a crunch along a gravelly bay, pass through a gate and turn immediately left away from the obvious path. Over the fields and through a series of gateways a collection of houses emerge and a rough road leads back to the Kirkstile Inn, a perfect post-walk pub.
7
3
NY146173 Several options are now at hand. Take the path across the stream aiming for the obvious footbridge up to your left.
4
NY150171 It is well worth taking the time to scramble up the slippery, slightly daunting mouth of Scale Force
5
GRADIENT PROFILE
METRES ABOVE SEA LEVEL
MILES KILOMETRES
before heading back over the footbridge and tracing the stream down to Crummock Water. NY155175 Pass through the gate to your left rather than ploughing on down to the lake to save yourself a few hundred yards of bog. Slabs have been laid through the worst of the boggy
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Mellbreak
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Ling Crags
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ROUTE 8 NOVEMBER 2017
Lake District
Always take a map out with you on the hill
12.5km/7.7 miles 4 hours
Hopegill Head
1 2 3
Hopegill Head from Grisedale Pike.
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8
NY161255 From High Lorton head up towards the Whinlatter Pass via a country lane.
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ROUTE STATS
©CROWN COPYRIGHT 2017 ORDNANCE SURVEY. MEDIA 001/17
Strenuousness Navigation Technicality
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Distance 12.5km (7.7 miles) Total ascent 760m Time 4 hours Start/finish High Lorton (NY161255) Terrain country lanes lead to grassy hillside narrowing to rocky ridgelines; final summit is a very rocky ungraded scramble and the descent is on rough hillside with faint paths at higher reaches; some stream crossings and farm tracks Maps OS Explorer (1:25,000) OL4; OS Landranger (1:50,000) 90 Guidebooks A Pictorial Guide to the Lakeland Fells: The Western Fells, A Wainwright, pb Francis Lincoln
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edifice that is Mellbreak jutting up from the waters. Photos taken, turn on your heel and retrace your steps for about 350m.
NY178253 Double back on yourself just short of a Beech treelined section of road to follow a gated paved road for about 320m.
2
NY175252 Keep an eye out for a wooden signpost in amongst the verge. The indicated path rises over fields before slinking up Swinside and soon hits a wide shoulder of hillside that climbs steadily. Follow the wall as the ridge narrows and becomes rocky.
3
7
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NY173221 The path from the top is quite clear from this direction. However, after the first few yards it becomes quite indistinct. Simply stay at the crest of the rounded fellside and make for Dodd – a hillock at its base.
6
NY169230 A gravelly path, left of an embankment brings you to the Dodd – a promentary with great views of Lorton Vale. Turn right to avoid this detour and loop down a clear path.
7
NY186222 Take care tackling the summit cone. The slabs are greasy when wet and treacherous if icy. It is worth pausing to pick a sensible line through them. This is not ever really a true scramble but at times you may feel the need to use your hands to negotiate this section which can feel quite exposed. The ridgeline from Hopegill Head to Whiteside is spectacular at times but is never more than an airy walk.
4
4 5
NY167236 Close to a wall below a series of streams, head left. This section can be very wet underfoot. Follow the path until it spits out onto the gated Swinside Road.
8
NY169243 At High Swinside Farm, follow the farm track down into its adjacent farm. Pass through gates between buildings and then rejoin the road you climbed earlier in the day.
9
NY170219 Whiteside offers views of Crummock Water and the impressive mountain
5
GRADIENT PROFILE
METRES ABOVE SEA LEVEL
MILES KILOMETRES
The stunning Hopegill Head (centre) visually dominates its range.
Start 1400 1200 1000 800 600 400 200
1 0 0
Hopegill Head
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4
3 2
Whiteside
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4
Dodd
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4
7 8
Finish
8 6
9 10
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NOVEMBER 2017 TRAIL 125
Lake District
ROUTE 9 NOVEMBER 2017
Always take a map out with you on the hill
11km/6.8 miles 3 hours
Loweswater Fell NY151256 From the bridge in Low Lorton head right on the back road out of the village and take the next left heading towards Low Bank Farm. Farm tracks and drovers’ roads lead you up towards the village of Mosser.
1
2 1
NY133259 Turn left onto a green lane past ancient sheep folds and towards the ruins of Hatteringill, now no more than an outline of walls.
2
NY137246 At the ruins turn right uphill following a wire fence for the summit of Fellbarrow. Views on clear days reach back over the Solway Firth to Scotland.
Crummock Water and Mellbreak from Low Fell.
3
NY132242 From the summit, the range opens out. Aim for the first hillock, Smithy Fell and continue over undulating ground.
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©CROWN COPYRIGHT 2017 ORDNANCE SURVEY. MEDIA 001/17
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Distance 11km (6.8 miles) Total ascent 475m Time 3 hours Start/finish Low Lorton (NY151256) Terrain farm tracks and drovers' roads, grassy hillside, some soggy ground, leading onto pathless felltop Maps OS Explorer (1:25,000) OL4; OS Landranger (1:50,000) 90 Guidebooks A Pictorial Guide to the Lakeland Fells: The Western Fells, A Wainwright, pb Francis Lincoln
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126 TRAIL NOVEMBER 2017
NY137235 Close to where you earlier joined the path, take the drovers’ road back down towards Thackthwaite along a series of easy zigzags. Grasmoor dominates the view as you descend.
7
NY137225 Low Fell summit is one of the most jaw-dropping vistas in the Western Fells (and there is plenty of competition). Crummock Water and Mellbreak form the foreground to a huge
6
ROUTE STATS Strenuousness Navigation Technicality
NY134235 Avoid the worst of the soggy ground below Sourfoot Fell by contouring left for 50 metres to join a well trodden path towards Low Fell.
4
4
panorama of mountains that get steadily more rugged. At this time of year, several may be snow-capped heightening the view’s sense of drama.
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3
6
NY148236 At Thackthwaite turn left to trundle back on the road to Lorton alongside the River Cocker.
8
The high-octane view from Low Fell.
GRADIENT PROFILE
METRES ABOVE SEA LEVEL
MILES KILOMETRES
Start 1400 1200 1000 800 600 400 200
1 0 0
Hatteringill Fellbarrow
2 2
4
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Low Fell
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6 6
Thackthwaite
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7 4
Finish
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2
NW Scotland
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PETER EDWARDS
Looking over the vast ‘knock and lochan’ hinterland to Quinag (left) and the north-west coast.
Glen Coul Bag a brace of bothies and a splendidly isolated Corbett in Scotland’s far north via Gleann Dubh, Beinn Leòid, and Glen Coul with Peter Edwards.
L
ying to the east of the distinctive whale-backed summits of Quinag, the elegant form of lonely Beinn Leòid is the fulcrum around which this fine walk turns. It takes in splendid mountain and loch scenery, plus two MBA-maintained bothies, and passes beneath Eas a’ Chual Aluinn waterfall – the highest waterfall in the UK with a 200m drop. Although this route benefits from a number of established tracks and paths, the region has a real ‘wilderness’ feel about it, with the views across glens, ridges, summits, lochs and coastline playing a significant part in this. There are a few off-piste sections where navigational acumen comes into play and boggy and tussocky ground makes for hard going in places. The first day’s route is tough walking with the MBA bothy at Glendhu as the objective, while the second day is manageable for the fit and enthusiastic – but may be best walked over two days with an overnight at Glencoul bothy. Thurso
ROUTE 10 F LEWIS S
Lairg GLEN COUL Ullapool
SKYE
Inverness Shiel Bridge Av
Loch na Gainmhich to Glendhu bothy
ROUTE 11 Glendhu bothy to Loch na Gainmhich via Beinn Leòid
PUBLIC TRANSPORT None nearby PUBS/GRUB It’s the Kylesku Hotel or a long trek further afield. Not cheap, but very good (01971) 502231 www.kyleskuhotel.co.uk ACCOMMODATION The MBA bothies at Glendhu and Glencoul are obvious places to overnight, but carry a tent or shelter as they can get busy;
Glendhu bothy.
Kylesku Hotel is the place to stay if you want a spot of luxury (01971) 502231 www.kyleskuhotel.co.uk; for jazzy upmarket cabins Kylesku Lodges (01971) 502223 PRACTICALITIES Best to bring your own supplies TOURIST INFO Lairg TIC (01971) 511368; VisitScotland Lochinver iCentre (01571) 841073 GUIDEBOOK Walking in Scotland’s Far North by Andy Walmsley, pb Cicerone Press
NW Scotland
Always take a map out with you on the hill
16.8km/10½ miles 6-8 hours Looking east from the Bealach a' Bhuirich.
Loch na Gainmhich to Glendhu bothy NC240292 From the parking area follow the track parallel to the road, bear left where the road bends and follow an often boggy path to cross the outflow of Loch na Gainmhich on stepping stones. To the left the Allt Chranaidh drops
1
ROUTE STATS
©CROWN COPYRIGHT 2017 ORDNANCE SURVEY. MEDIA 001/17
Strenuousness Navigation Technicality
lllll lllll lllll
Distance 16.8km (10½ miles) Total ascent 663m Time 6-8 hours Start parking area by A894 (NC240292) Finish Glendhu bothy (NC283337) Terrain rocky mountain and moorland terrain; some ATV tracks and footpaths, boggy and tussocky in places Maps OS Explorer 442 Assynt and Lochinver
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OS Maps
128 TRAIL NOVEMBER 2017
precipitously into a fine gorge. Ignore the lochside path and follow an eroded path which soon climbs above the east side of the loch. The path becomes firmer as it climbs more steeply towards the Bealach a' Bhuirich. The path eases,
then climbs again before levelling where the Bealach a’ Bhuirich is gained. As the high point of the bealach (450m) is reached just beyond Loch Bealach a’ Bhuirich there are big views back to Quinag and east to the wild hinterland ahead.
Arriving at Glencoul bothy at dusk.
GRADIENT PROFILE
METRES ABOVE SEA LEVEL
MILES KILOMETRES
Start
Loch Bealach a’ Bhuirich
1
2
1400 1200 1000 800 600 400 200
0 0
Glencoul
6
4 4
6
Finish
4
3 2
2
NC263282 Continue descending roughly eastwards, soon reaching the burn feeding the Eas a’ Chual Aluinn waterfall. Ignore the boggy path (marked on the map) descending alongside the stream to the top of the falls, as there is a better view from below. Cross the burn where the path meets it and ignore the vague path descending along its far side. Continue along the sinuous path for 1km then, shortly after passing alongside a V-shaped lochan, take an indistinct path branching left off the main path, initially descending alongside the burn flowing down from the lochan. The grassy path winds steeply down through the crags to the
2
8
8 10
12
14
10 16
ROUTE 10 NOVEMBER 2017
The head of Loch Beag with Loch Glencoul beyond.
floor of the glen where the Abhainn an Loch Bhig can be crossed with care – unless it is in spate, which will require you to head upstream until you can find a safe crossing point. NC287273 Once over the river, turn northwards (left) and head down the glen towards Loch Beag. The spectacular view of Eas a’ Chual Aluinn cascading into the glen is some compensation for the ensuing 2km trudge through boggy, heathery, tussocky ground to the head of the loch. Try to follow unclear paths through the rough, boulder-strewn terrain around the edge of the loch and, after 1.5km, turn right along a track by a jetty and follow this around to the Glencoul bothy, which stands by the shore of Loch Glencoul.
4
1
3
Decending toward Glen Coul (day 2).
2
NC271305 Cross a footbridge, pass around a sheep fank and continue by the shore to cross another footbridge over the Glencoul River. Bear right along the path for 100m then turn sharp left along a track (marked on both the OS 50k and 25k maps) that soon climbs steadily up above the eastern shore of Loch
4
3 Glencoul. The track is sketchy in places, especially in its upper reaches. After 2.5km a high point (210m) is reached above the Aird da Loch, which juts out between Loch Glencoul and Loch Glendhu. Continue along the path as it turns north then east, steadily descending towards the south shore of Loch Glendhu. The path peters out, but continue to the head of the loch and cross the footbridge over the Abhainn a’ Ghlinne Dhuibh. Pick up the glen track and turn left, soon arriving at Glendhu MBA bothy. The bothy can be busy as it is only 7km from the A894 along a good track. However, it is a fair size and there’s plenty of space for pitching a tent outside. Loch Glendhu is grand for a refreshing dip!
NOVEMBER 2017 TRAIL 129
NW Scotland
Always take a map out with you on the hill
25km/15½ miles 8-10 hours
Ascending Beinn Leòid with Ben More Assynt to the south-west.
Beinn Leòid from Glendhu bothy
©CROWN COPYRIGHT 2017 ORDNANCE SURVEY. MEDIA 001/17
Strenuousness Navigation Technicality
lllll lllll lllll
Distance 25km (15½ miles) Total ascent 1546m Time 8-10 hours Start Glendhu bothy (NC283337) Optional overnighter Glencoul bothy (NC271305) Finish parking area by A894 (NC240292) Terrain rocky mountain and moorland terrain; some ATV tracks and footpaths, boggy and tussocky in places Maps OS Explorer 442 Assynt and Lochinver
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OS Maps
130 TRAIL NOVEMBER 2017
NC283337 From Glendhu bothy, head south-east up through Gleann Dubh on the ATV track with little gradient for 2km. There follows a steep climb before the gradient eases then levels. Cross a footbridge
1
over the Abhainn a’ Ghlinne Dhuibh, with the picturesque Eas Creag an Luchda waterfall upstream, and continue climbing for 1.5km until the metalled track runs out. Just beyond a brief zigzag section of path,
strike out southwards, across rough and boggy open moorland, for the north ridge of Beinn Leòid. The ridge is grassy at first, giving way to awkward bouldery slopes higher up. The summit, furnished with a trig point
and low shelter wall, is gained at 792m. The views are magnificently expansive: a tumult of moorland, lochs, mountains and sea with Ben More Assynt to the south, Quinag to the west, Arkle and Foinaven to the
Looking back down Gleann Dubh with Quinag in the distance.
ESPY PHOTOGRAPHY / ALAMY
ROUTE STATS
GRADIENT PROFILE
METRES ABOVE SEA LEVEL
MILES KILOMETRES
Start 1400 1200 1000 800 600 400 200
Beinn Leòid
2
1 0 0
Glencoul
3 5
5
Finish
10 10
15
15 20
ROUTE 11 NOVEMBER 2017 Glendhu bothy, next to the larger Glendhu lodge.
1
north. Keep an eye out for mountain hares and golden eagles. NC320295 From the summit head south-west, soon descending bouldery slopes that give way to grass on the Bealach Beinn Leòid between the summit and the lower (729m) south-west top. Contour southwestwards around the top and continue descending the grassy south-west ridge, making for a narrow bealach at 560m. Now descend north-westwards following the course of a stream flowing into an unnamed lochan.
2 3
2
NC310285 Continue descending alongside the burn flowing down from the lochan as it winds its way down to eventually join the Glencoul River at the outflow of Loch an Eircill. Turn right and follow the
3
Land Rover track down Glen Coul, passing beneath the craggy eminence of the Stack of Glencoul. After 4km keep
left on the main track where a path forks right, and soon cross a footbridge over the river. Continue along the shore
to Glencoul bothy NC271305. Unless you’re still full of beans and/or on a tight schedule spending a night at this fine bothy is a no-brainer. Either way, retrace your outward route to return to the start of the walk.
Approaching the summit of Beinn Leòid with Ben More Assynt to the south-west.
WALKS OF A LIFETIME Heading off Goatfell back towards North Goatfell with the narrow ridge of Stacach in between. TOM BAILEY
“True to form, as with other granite ranges, there is some seriously steep terrain... ”
132 TRAIL NOVEMBER 2017
Isle of Arran 22.3km/13¾ miles 9 hours
GLEN ROSA ROUND Jeremy Ashcroft takes you on an epic island adventure, bagging all of Arran’s major peaks in one lofty walk.
NOVEMBER 2017 TRAIL 133
WALKS OF A LIFETIME Cioch na h-Oighe Suidhe Fhearghas Suidehe Fhearghas O X N N S A
Caisteal Abhail Sail an Im
5
N
4
North Goatfell
Goat Fell Goatfell
3
2
Stacach
G L E
Carn Mòr
Meall Breac
Mullach Buidhe
Cir Mhor
Dearg Choirein The Saddle
Rosa Rosetta Pinnacle Stone A’ Chir
Garbh-choire Dubh
Fionn Choire
Rosa Slabs
JEREMY ASHCROFT
6 Beinn a’ Chliabhain Beinn Tarsuinn
Bealach an Fhir-bhogha
7
Ealta Choire Coire Beag Coire a’ Bhradain Beinn Nuis
8 Craeg nam Meann Coire na Cuiseig
L
et’s be honest, when somebody mentions the word ‘granite’ our first thoughts jump to the towering spires and clean-cut walls of Chamonix, Yosemite or Patagonia, we don’t really think about British mountains, do we? There are occasional pockets of the stuff on our shores, but the modest and rather ancient nature of our topography means that the classic overpowering scale of granite formations is somewhat reduced and lost within geological confusion. Of course there are fine miniature displays among the tors and sea cliffs of the Cornwall and Devon, and the odd big wall tucked away in the Cairngorms. But the grand architecture is somehow mostly missing until you venture across the Firth of Clyde and step foot on the geological wonder that is the Isle of Arran. Roughly 66 million years ago, a whacking great blob of molten rock muscled its way through the
GRADIENT PROFILE
Goatfell
Rosa Bridge
1400 1200 METRES 1000 ABOVE SEA 800 LEVEL 600 400 1 200 MILES KILOMETRES
0 0
earth’s crust to form a redoubt of perfect granite. A few periods of glaciation later and we are left with our own grand granite range. Two deep glens cut deep into the rock mass, and with the assistance of a selection of curvaceous corries, a perfect range of towers, slabs and lofty summits are the end result. There are lots of options for walking these fine mountains but the daddy of them all has to be the Glen Rosa Round. It takes an extended course around the skyline and optional detour to collect the well-named outlier Caisteal Abhail. True to form, as with other granite ranges, there is some seriously steep terrain and although there is not much on this walk to faze a strong walker, there is one summit, A’Chir, that involves rock-climbing to the summit. Fortunately, for walkers there is a nifty bypass path, which allows you to experience something of the peak without risking life or limb.
Cir Mhor Caisteal Abhail
2 1
1
2
134 TRAIL NOVEMBER 2017
3
2
4
3 5
3 6
4
Beinn Nuis
4 7
5 8
Rosa Bridge
Beinn Tarsuinn
The Saddle
5 9
6 10
7
6 7 11 12
8 13
8 14
9
15
17
11 18
12 19 20
NR991415 Goatfell is the highest summit on Arran and the highest point on the walk. It gives superb views of the rest of the journey across Glen Rosa, and out to sea across the Firth of Clyde. However, there is a lot of walking to do so don’t linger too long. The route now leads north along the narrow rocky crest of Stacach, where there is some scrambling to be had along the top; if you don’t fancy it, a path skirts it on the eastern side.
2
NR989423 North Goatfell sits at the junction of three ridges and overlooks the very impressive Glen Sannox. The north-easterly ridge is the standard approach to Goatfell from Sannox over Mullach Buidhe.
3
9 10 16
NS005368 A short distance north-east along the road over Rosa Bridge is a driveway on the left. Join it and follow it past fields and into woodland to cross Cnocan Burn; it then connects with the main Goatfell path. This route is clear on the ground but rough in parts, particularly as height is gained. It leads up through Cnocan Wood and then out on to the open slopes of Goatfell’s southern flank. It then leads up through Coire nam Meann and on to the shoulder of Meall Breac. Above the shoulder, the path follows the steepening crest of Goatfell’s east ridge to the summit.
1
13 21
22
Isle of Arran 22.3km/13¾ miles 9 hours HIGH POINTS
Goatfell Caisteal Abhail Beinn Tarsuinn North Goatfell Cir Mhòr Beinn Nuis
Corrie Maol Donn
Coire nam Meann
874m/2,876ft 859m/2,818ft 826m/2,710ft 818m/2,684ft 799m/2,621ft 792m/2,598ft
Coire Chatan
Glenshant Hill
Brodick Castle Connoc aann BBuurrnn
Cladach
Creag Rosa Camp camp site Glenshurig Glenshurig Rosa Bridge Bridge Bridge
A
9
footbridge
START/ FINISH
1
TOM BAILEY
S
H
O
N
R
RT
Cnoc Breac
N
NO
G L E
Looking back at Cir Mhor (left), Caisteal Abhail (centre) and the dramatic Witch’s Step (right) from The Saddle.
NOVEMBER 2017 TRAIL 135
Isle of Arran 22.3km/13¾ miles 9 hours ROUTE STATS JURA
Brooding Beinn Tarsuinn from Cir Mhor.
Glasgow
ISLAY ISLE OF ARRAN
Ayr
Ballantrae Newton S
Distance 22.1km (13¾ miles) Total ascent 1995m Time 9 hours Start/finish Rosa Bridge, Cladach (NS005368) Nearest town Brodick Terrain valley path, rough mountain flank, narrow granite ridges, rocky summits. Some scrambling Accommodation SYHA Lochranza (01770) 830631, www. syha.org.uk; B&Bs and hotels in Brodick; campsite in Glen Rosa 07985 566004 Tourist info Brodick iCentre (01770) 303774 www.visitarran.com Public transport Train to Ardrossan National Rail Enquiries 0345 748 4950; CalMac ferry to Brodick, 0800 066 5000 www.calmac. co.uk; once on Arran the best way to get about is to hire a bike, Arran Bike Hire www. arranbikehire.com, www.theshorehouse. co.uk; Brodick Cycles (01770) 302460 Maps OS Landranger (1:50,000) 69; OS Explorer (1:25,000) 361; Harvey Superwalker (1:25,000) XT25 Arran Guidebooks The Islands of Scotland by Fabian, Little & Williams, pb SMC; The Big Walks by Ken Wilson, pb Baton Wicks. All available from www.cordee. co.uk (01455) 611185; Great Mountain Days in Scotland by Dan Bailey, pb Cicerone www.cicerone.co.uk
136 TRAIL NOVEMBER 2017
KEITH FERGUS / ALAMY
ll l ll ll l l l ll l l l 1 4
The onward route lies down the steep north-westerly ridge, leading to The Saddle and a loss of height. Part-way down don’t be tempted to cross over the large pinnacle as there is no through route off its summit; it has to be bypassed by the path on the left. Below is the narrow col formed by The Saddle, offering an escape route into Glen Rosa should you need to bail. The path continues over The Saddle and climbs the steep crest direct. Follow it until it goes left through a gap to bypass the subsidiary top of the Rosa Pinnacle. A short section of easy scrambling leads to Cir Mhòr’s exposed and rocky summit. NR973431 The fine summit of Caisteal Abhail appears tantalisingly close from the top of Cir Mhòr and the approach to it is along an appealing crest. It’s a wonderful out and back trip to include in the walk, and if you have time it’s to be recommended. Bear in mind there is over 250m of height loss so don’t hang round too long if you intend to do it.
4
NR967442 Caisteal Abhail is way out on a limb and gives amazing views of the deep interior of Glen Sannox. The round of Glen Sannox is another superb walk worth noting for future adventures. Retrace your steps back towards Cir Mhòr but before you head too far back up the north-west ridge look out for a traverse path on the right (starting at NR969433). This skirts the western flank of Cir Mhor and gains the col on the south side, avoiding a re-ascent. If you need to escape at this point there is a path that heads south-east into Fionn Choire and down into Glen Rosa.
5
NR967428 Crossing A’Chir is a rock climb which should only be undertaken if you have the necessary experience and equipment. A bypass path skirts the western flanks, reached by ascending about 200m up the north-east ridge (to NR965426). The path drops slightly to start with then traverses the rocky slope south to Bealach an Fhir-bhogha. It splits at the bealach, so take the
6
right-hand fork that winds its way around the rocks of Beinn Tarsuinn’s north-east ridge. NR959412 Beinn Tarsuinn’s summit is a spectacular spot poised high above steep crags and the rarely visited Ealt Choire. An undulating ridge-top path leads south then south-west to a narrow col. Above it the last climb of the day makes a thankfully short ascent to the summit of Beinn Nuis.
7
NR955398 A path descends south-east from the summit, first down a narrow ridge then on slopes beside the edge of Coire nam Meann. It then crosses a boggy section of ground to join the banks of Garbh Allt. Follow it to a crossing at a junction, ford the burn and then follow the trail on the north side to a footbridge at the confluence with Glenrosa Water.
8
NR982386 Follow the path, and track south-east then east along Glen Rosa to the start back at Rosa Bridge.
9
On Cir Mhor looking down Glen Sannox; a stunning piece of mountain scenery.
TOM BAILEY
©CROWN COPYRIGHT 2017 ORDNANCE SURVEY. MEDIA 001/17
Strenuousness Navigation Technicality Trail 100s Corbetts
RIDGE GUIDE
Snowdonia
Daear Ddu Moel Siabod Peace, quiet and an enjoyable scramble on a Welsh giant. Spoil you we do!
W
TOM BAILEY
hile the likes of Crib Goch and the north ridge of Tryfan are undoubtedly attractive as scrambles, their popularity can be both off-putting and frustrating. If instead you crave a bit of peace and quiet on your mountain ridges then don’t despair because the isolated giant of Moel Siabod has the answer. Tucked away on its southerly aspect, the sweeping south-westerly ridge, Daear Ddu, is right up there in terms of exciting loftiness, but suffers far less from overcrowding. The rough approach acts as a sturdy gatekeeper and tends to attract only those with an urging for wild places. Technically the route up the crest of Daear Ddu barely nudges grade 1; however, you can vary the line as you climb which certainly ups the ante by taking in rock steps and blocks along the way. For exposure and situation it’s hard to compare with its more popular counterparts but, being isolated with no intervening peaks restricting the views, it’s best described as equal but different. Jeremy Ashcroft mountaineering editor
ROUTE STATS Conway
Liverpool Rhyl
Ma
“A delightful ascent, an easy scramble up a narrow, rocky arête, with a good path all the way.” John and Anne Nuttall, The Mountains of England and Wales. “An excellent line of ascent that is rugged and refreshing.” Terry Marsh, Great Mountain Days in Snowdonia.
Bodelwyddan Betws-y-Coed
THEY SAY... “The finest and most rewarding ascent of the dominating peak of the group.” W A Poucher, The Welsh Peaks.
Llangollen
Barmouth
Region Snowdonia Mountain Moel Siabod Location SH710545 Map OS Explorer (1:25,000) OL17 & 18; OS Landranger (1:50,000) 115 Technicality lllll (or Grade 1 depending on line taken)
Moel Siabod Approaching Llyn y Foel, the ridge on the skyline.
2
Llyn y Foel
NO
Daear Ddu terminates directly on the summit dome. To descend, you can opt for the rocky path down the north-east ridge, or the gentler path down the northern slopes.
ear
u Dd
Da
1
From Pont Cyfyng, the normal Moel Siabod path is taken as far as the intake boundary. After this, branch off left and head to Llyn y Foel. A slight descent leads over boggy ground to the side of the llyn. From here head south to gain the shoulder at the base of Daear Ddu.
H
N
RT
JEREMY ASHCROFT
Daear Ddu, although fairly narrow, has a good path up its crest and, apart from the odd spot, you’ll find it’s more like exposed walking than scrambling. However, if you are wanting a bit more excitement, there are lots of blocks and steps to tackle directly that offer some hands-on action.
3
NOVEMBER 2017 TRAIL 137
112017 5 THINGS TO DO NOW...
Have a clear-out Sleep somewhere unusual
2
While cave spiders and a damp ol’ secret cave (see page 48) may not float your boat for a wild night out, make a mountain day memorable by finding a weird and wacky way to spend the night. Whether that’s luxury glamping in a tree house, or hammocking under the moonlight, or… well, the rest is up to you. Just make sure you send us a picture!
TOM BAILEY
1
Okay, so Steve Backshall has a lot more outdoor kit than us mere mortals (find out about his giveaway on page 24), but we all have our favourite bits while others gather dust, so have a rummage and you may be surprised how much gear you have spare that could be put to good use. ROG it (below) or eBay it and put the proceeds towards a trip, or give it to charity! Find out more about selling or gifting gear at www.recycleoutdoorgear.com
Read a good book
3
While Trail is bursting its seams with inspiration and good reads, it’s only out monthly. So, in between times, why not take a leaf out of Alastair Humphreys’ book (page 27) and set aside an hour a week for a good adventure read? If your eyes are too tired at the end of the day, audiobooks are becoming increasingly popular and mean you can indulge on the way to work, or while otherwise on the move. What a great idea! For a massive choice Check out www.audible.co.uk
4
There is a re-energising effect of pushing your boundaries and learning new skill. Think about when the last time you did something you’ve never tried before was. Been a while? Set yourself a task, whether it’s an ice climbing session (see page 62), or even qualifying as a mountain leader, don’t let life stagnate – make memories and make it happen!
Go bird-spotting
5 TOM BAILEY
Use our crib card of bird silhouettes (page 61) to add another level of interest to a walk in the hills. From there you can further enhance your connection with nature by learning to identify birds by their song. Mindfulness expert Claire Thompson has just released a book The Art of Mindful Birdwatching which reveals the powers of this simple activity. For help in identifying bird song visit www.british-birdsongs.uk
138 TRAIL NOVEMBER 2017
BEN WEEKS
Try something new
COMING UP NEXT MONTH
Don’t miss the December issue’s FREE 24-page special of tried and tested gear for weatherproofing yourself whatever the forecast!
WIND AND RAIN
COLD AND SNOWY
SUNSHINE AND SHOWERS
navigation aids, windshells, waterproofs, storm shelters, trousers, gaiters…
4-season boots, ice axes, crampons, down jackets, gloves, hats, goggles…
lightweight insulation, waterproofs, sunglasses, 3-4 season boots…
ALSO IN THE NEXT ISSUE OF TRAIL: An Ennerdale adventure
Pride of the Peak District at Alport Castles A wild night on Cnicht in Snowdonia
PLUS we discover how mindfulness in nature could just be the medicine we all need!
ON SALE 2 NOVEMBER
TOM BAILEY
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Easy to adapt to the conditions with Greenland Wax, these durable and functional trousers promise to perform wherever your adventure takes you. Designed for nature and produced on nature’s terms. Forever Nature.
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