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EUROPE
> CONTENTS
04 ON THE PISTE
Welcome Letter
Check out our pick of the slopes this ski season, for newbies and experts alike
14 BEST OF THE BALTICS
20 LEARN TO SAIL IN CROATIA
The Baltics have graduated from stag do central to bona fide bucket list – highlights from Lithuania, Estonia and Latvia
Don’t leave someone else to the steering during your adventure on the high seas. We learn to sail on the Dalmatian coast
24 GO EAST: SECRET CITY BREAKS
30 A WEEKEND IN PARIS
Eastern Europe is ripe for exploring. Forget the mainland’s staple city breaks and discover these great hidden gems instead
It’s the quintessential weekend escape. But what else is there to do besides climb the Eiffel Tower and ogle the Mona Lisa?
Welcome to TNT’s Destinations Europe supplement, bringing you the best of travel that’s just a short hop from London. We’ve got something to suit every explorer’s appetite, from sailing on the Adriatic’s crystal-clear seas around Croatia, to strapping on your skis and pounding the powder across the continent. If you’re more of an urbanite, we’ve got you covered, too. We head to the Baltics for adventures in some of Europe’s most intriguing capital cities, where a troubled Soviet past combines with the cutting-edge cool present. Eastern Europe is also giving the more affluent corners of the continent a run for their money – flip to P24 to find out why. And finally, what would a trip to Europe be without Paris? TNT tracked down some of the City of Lights’ more unusual spots.
Photos: TVB St. Anton am Alberg, Getty Images, TNT Images.
Happy travelling! The Destinations team
Group Editor Carol Driver Editor Laura Chubb Travel Editor Helen Elfer Contributing Writers Jahn Vannisselroy, Jade Bremner, Matt Risley, Clare Vooght, Celia Topping, Janine Kelso Head Of Design And Production Jon Cooke Graphic Design Lynne Eve, Llewellyn Cass Picture Researcher Ruth Board Head Of Digital Marketing & Development Syed Ahmad Social Media Coordinator Dan Thorne IT Manager James Le May Commercial Director David Alstin Sales Managers Jaqui Ward, Matt Syder Sales Executives Eddie Clinton, Donovan Smith, Michael Fair TNT Multimedia Ltd CEO Kevin Ellis Chairman Ken Hurst Publisher TNT Multimedia Limited Distribution Emblem Direct Ltd Printed By Wyndeham Peterborough Limited News AAP Pictures Getty Images, TNT Images, Thinkstock TNT Magazine, 16 Brune Street, London, E1 7NJ tntmagazine.com General Enquiries Phone 020 7953 8469 Fax 020 7960 7957 Email enquiries@tntmagazine.com Sales Enquiries Phone 020 7989 0567 Email sales@tntmagazine.com
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DESTINATIONS EUROPE
Party in the powder at Snowbombing
Slide through Europe’s scenery
Nocturnal sledging in Morzine
4
Try Verbier for extreme skiing
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BEST SKI RESORTS > EUROPE
On the Piste Tis the season to get sporty. Fortunately, you’re just a short plane or train ride away from a wealth of winter wonderlands. Here’s our pick of Europe’s best ski resorts EDITED BY LAURA CHUBB
W
inter is a-coming, but it’s not all catastrophic central heating bills and pitch-black morning commutes. With the cold also comes the ski season – and Europe has loads of resorts just waiting for you to swing by and pound the powder. With runs for beginners, intermediates and show-offs, epic mountainscapes and raucous apres-ski scenes, there are so many awesome skiing options on the mainland, it can be tough to know where to start. That’s where we come in. Here’s our guide to the top resorts on the continent – good times guaranteed.
Morzine, France WHY Morzine in France is the destination for those who want to ski in style without breaking the bank. Spend the weekend at Chalet Amis, an unpretentious French alpine resort just over an hour’s drive from Geneva. You won’t find the snooty slave-to-fashion ski posers here; they’re up the road in Chamonix, darling. Morzine itself is a characterful town lined with wooden chalets and cutesy cafes serving up richly spiced vin chaud and hot chocolate. And when it comes to skiing, Morzine is not to be sniffed at. Within spitting distance of Chalet Amis is the mammoth Portes de Soleil ski area, an adventure playground of 280 ski runs and 197 ski lifts; that’s 650km of slopes connecting 12 resorts. BEST FOR Finding alternative snowy fun once you’ve had your fill of skiing. Off the slopes, you’ll find a deluge of other activities including ice climbing, paragliding and speed riding, Nordic walking, ice diving, snowshoeing and
hot air balloon rides. You can also have a go at nocturnal sledging. Whizzing down the dark and desolate slopes is an eerie-yet-exhilarating feeling. MORE skimorzine.com. Chalet Amis with TG Ski costs from £499 a week. tgski.co.uk
Mayrhofen, Austria WHY Gorgeous mountains, electrifying music sets and seriously outlandish fancy dress costumes: Mayrhofen is the proud host of Snowbombing, one of Europe’s biggest winter music festivals. Self-styled as ‘the greatest show on snow’, Snowbombing is an unmissable event for anyone who loves snow and loves to party. Skiers dressed as penguins and root vegetables glide down the slopes, while the bars are packed with more fancy-dress-clad skiers and snowboarders soaking up the sunshine and the stunning mountain views. And when night falls, it’s time to get glammed up for some serious dancing. BEST FOR A spring fling. Spring, when Snowbombing takes place, is a great time to visit as you’ll often find a massive dump of snow coupled with sunny bright-blue skies. Mayrhofen offers 625km of pistes, 167 lifts and gondolas, a 3286m glacier and an award-winning terrain park. Pistes offer panoramic views and are framed by pine forests. The line-up for 2013 hasn’t been confirmed yet, but this year saw Dizzee Rascal, The Vaccines, Fatboy Slim and Example revving up the party in the powder. Accommodation is included in the price of a Snowbombing package, with options to suit all budgets. MORE snowbombing.com; mayrhofen.at/en tntmagazine.com/destinations
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Cross-country skiing in Haute Maurienne
Interlaken, the top of Europe
Verbier, Switzerland WHY Made up of four linked valleys, Verbier has no shortage of options for beginners and experts alike. There’s snow-sure skiing on the 3330m-high Mont Fort, and plenty of challenging black (difficult) and red (intermediate) runs on the higher slopes. Meanwhile, down low are some lovely blue (easy) runs through the trees that are perfect for novices. Whatever your skill level, Verbier also provides extreme entertainment in the form of the Freeride World Tour – see below. BEST FOR Some seriously extreme action on the snow. The final round of the Freeride World Tour comes to Verbier every March, providing a chance to watch some of the world’s most hardcore skiers and snowboarders taking on fabled mountain the Bec de Rosses. Some of the riders jump off 50ft cliffs, others launch blindly off a ridge without seeing their landing point, while others prefer extreme speed. Thrilling stuff. MORE freerideworldtour.com/verbier.html Verbier’s ski season runs from December to April. Geneva is the closest airport, and then it’s two hours by train to Verbier. There are a couple of lodges offering dorm accommodation, along with plenty of super-swish hotels. verbier.ch
Haute-Maurienne, France WHY The French ski resort of Val Cenis Vanoise, located in the Haute Maurienne Valley, is another winningly affordable resort, and a two-hour drive from Lyon. Boasting 125km of slopes, between 1200m and 2800m
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Party time in Ischgl
high, and offering good snow conditions from December until April, unlike most pricey French ski resorts there’s a raft of affordable accommodation here – with self-catering apartments costing as little as €135 (£116) for three nights. There’s a surfeit of easy slopes for beginners and some challenging rides for more experienced skiers, including some gorgeous tree-skiing through larch and pine forests. BEST FOR Cross-country skiing. It’s a hub for cross-country aficionados thanks to high plateaus, filmic scenery and first-class snow coverage. For keen downhillers, the crosscountry variety is an entirely different kettle of fish – the skis are lighter and, in spite of the poles, it’s a challenge to stay upright and balanced. MORE haute-maurienne-vanoise.com; valcenisvanoise.fr
Ischgl, Austria WHY Ischgl is most legendary for its après-ski scene, but people do come here to hit the slopes. Out of over 240km of runs, 12 are blue, 39 are red and 10 are black. Thanks to its 1000 beasting canons, a season here lasts five months – longer than in most European ski resorts. Of course, you’ll find the best powder in the thick of the season, when it’s real, but the fake stuff is still a not-too-shabby alternative. BEST FOR Parties, parties and more parties. Hundreds of people from Germany, Austria and Switzerland descend on the mountain village to celebrate the start and end of the season in November and April respectively, with acts playing alfresco at the foot of the mountains in the >>
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BEST SKI RESORTS > EUROPE
SUMMER SKI RESORT Just because the snow’s melted, doesn’t mean Les 2 Alpes isn’t worth a visit A two-hour drive from Lyon, this 50-year-old French resort prides itself on being Europe’s largest skiable glacier and remains one of the few spots you can ski in summer. When the slopes do close, there’s white water rafting and 12,000m of mountain biking slopes to get involved in.
Get some air in Meribel
High times in Morzine
past including The Killers, Katy Perry, Kylie Minogue, Sting and Rihanna. Don’t miss out on popular pub Niki’s Stadl, named after its resident local celebrity. The bearded fortysomething sings and DJs – his own songs included. He’s weird, but everyone here loves the guy. Just go with it. MORE ischgl.com Grab some mates and hire out Chalet Zita, which is 2-3 minutes away from the piste, meaning you can pretty much ski back in the evenings. From £679pn for a week-long package, including flights. skitotal.com
The Crankworx Freeride Mountain Bike Festival is also held in the resort each July. See professional riders performing flips, supermans, and revolutions – but perhaps don’t try it yourself. les2alpes.com crankworx.com
Bike the slopes
Meribel, France WHY The pristine mountains of Meribel, where 150km of snow-kissed slopes yields 73 different runs in the centre of the Three Valleys (Courchevel to the left; Val Thorens to the right), are the perfect place to learn how to ski. So strap ‘em on and perfect that snowplough. BEST FOR Ski lessons. Packages of five half-days cost from €124 (about £106) per person. esf-meribel.com. Novices can also enjoy a cheap and cheerful après-ski scene – try Jack’s, which has been hosting après-ski parties for 15 years and serves up jugs of beer, cocktails, live music, pizzas, free pool tables, stand-up comedy and live sport. Beers are about £4 during the daily happy hour from 4-5pm. jacksbarmeribel.com MORE meribel.net Find decently priced digs at Hotel Le Roc, right in the centre of the resort, 50m from the nearest piste. From £61 a night in low season; £105 in high season. hotelleroc.com
Interlaken, Switzerland WHY An epicentre for extreme sports – think everything from river rafting, canyon jumping and bungee jumping to skydiving and hang gliding – Interlaken also has good access to several skiing and snowboarding areas. The largest is Jungfrau, which you can reach by train from Interlaken, a preposterously scenic spot known as ‘the top of Europe’ which offers great hiking as well as suiting all your snowsporting needs. BEST FOR Thought sledging was for kids? Try the 15km descent from the peak of Faulhorn down to Grindelwald and you just might change your mind. Billed as the world’s longest and most spectacular sledge run, you’ll be screaming all the way down. jungfrau.ch MORE Find out everything you need to know about Interlaken, including accommodation and costs, at interlaken.ch >>
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ALT. WINTER SPORTS All skiied out and bored of your board? Try these winter sports for size
Budget slopes in Bansko
SKI JORING Think waterskiing but on snow. You can be pulled by horses, dogs, or even a snowmobile. Once you get somewhere approaching competent, you can work in jumps and obstacles. SNOW KAYAKING Snow kayaking swaps rapids for slopes. Though it might strike you as a sort of glorified version of sledding, the crafts can get up to some serious speeds, so it’s best not to charge right down a mountain – start out with some gentle runs first. And wear your thermals.
Bansko, Bulgaria WHY Eastern Europe is great for snow bunnies on a budget. Bansko in Bulgaria benefits from a long season (roughly December to May) and plenty of good powder. Together with 64km of pistes to explore, there’s a wealth of cheap accommodation options and a decent clubbing scene. Set aside £125 for a six-day ski pass. BEST FOR If you’re keen to go off-piste for some culture, Bansko is a good bet. This cute medieval town has many cultural monuments and historic sites, while slightly further afield is the Pirin National Park – a Unesco World Heritage site home to epic limestone mountainscapes, glacial lakes, waterfalls and caves. MORE bulgariaski.com
ICE DIVING For the incredibly brave, ice diving lets you scuba under thick sheets of ice. The diver is tethered to the ice to prevent anything going too horribly wrong – you really do not want to get stuck. Thick, pre-heated wetsuits keep out the cold and a full dive mask prevents direct contact with the freezing water. This is one of the more extreme adventure sports and you’ll need to undergo rigorous training. DOG SLEDDING Not so much a sport as a particularly lazy way to travel, letting a pack of fluffy mutts pull you along the white stuff is a fun means to sightseeing. Also a great way to end a long, hard day of getting beat up on the slopes.
Zakopane, Poland WHY In the Tatra Mountains of southern Poland, Zakopane offers steep slopes that are definitely not for novices. Be adventurous and take to the snow in villages such as Bialka, Poronin and Bukowina Tatrzanska, which combine challenging terrain with the traveller’s satisfaction of straying from the beaten path. BEST FOR Big ski jumps can be found around the Krokiew area. Expect to pay about £11 for 10 rides on the ski lift (bargaintastic). Don’t attempt the jumps if you’re new to skiing – it will hurt. Value for money accommodation abounds, though you get what you pay for. Still, as cheap and cheerful goes, it doesn’t get much better. MORE zakopane.com n
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Ice diving: a little extreme?
Photos: Shila Sultana, TNT, Polish National Tourist Office, Schilthornbahn AG, Interlaken, Indiana Ventures, ATOUT FRANCE/Robert Palomba, Getty, Clair Goodall
Cheap as chips Zakopane
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DESTINATIONS EUROPE
Positivus Festival, Latvia
Here and below: fairytale buildings and cute cobbled streets in Tallinn, Estonia
Old Town, Riga
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BEST OF> The baltics
Big in the Baltics Delve into a unique history and culture, dive Soviet wrecks and indulge in raucous vodka-induced rave culture. Here’s why you should add the Baltics to your bucket list WORDS JADE BREMNER
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heap booze and flights (from £150 return with the likes of Lufthansa and Air Baltic) ensure herds of stag dos pour into the Baltics every weekend. But there is a more cultured side to visiting this region. From a fascinating Soviet past to retro seaside towns, the Baltics are worth some serious exploration. Here are our highlights.
Lithuania THE LOWDOWN The tiny capital city of Vilnius is certainly worth a stop for its creepy old alleyways, courtyards and ever-growing art scene. Further afield you’ll find rolling green hills, lakes aplenty and cute, fairytale-like cottages. HIGHLIGHTS Sample the local tipple by heading straight to Lithuania’s second-largest city, Kaunas. The nation’s largest producer of liquor got into the vodka-making business in 1906, thanks to Nicholas II of Russia who commissioned a factory here. For a very reasonable £15, you can take a tour of the AB Stumbras distillery, visit its museum, and sample some of the local sauce – they’ll serve you up 10 different ages and strengths of vodka. OUR TIP In Vilnius, learn about Lithuania’s difficult past under the occupation of the Soviet Union. The Genocide Museum (or KGB Museum) offers a sombre experience. Walk around the cells where Soviet soldiers would brutally torture and kill freedom fighters. MORE Visit the tourism board’s website at travel.lt
its capital, Tallinn, is gaining quite the reputation as a hipster hangout. Estonia is a great option for everyone, from outdoor enthusiasts and street art fans to lads on the lash. HIGHLIGHTS Tallinn was named European Capital of Culture in 2011, and for good reason. Its medieval Old Town includes buzzing squares, cobbled lanes and a real backin-time feel. It’s easy to spend the majority of your time in the city’s dozens of cosy cafes and boutiques. After exploring the capital, make a trip to Estonia’s secondlargest city, Tartu. Here there’s a tranquil riverfront, green parks scattered around the city and a distinctive university culture (one-fifth of its population are students). With this laid-back young vibe comes a funky art scene and tons of live music, drinking and dancing until the wee hours. OUR TIP The underrated district of Kalamaja in Tallinn is the place to go for cult bands, edgy bars, pop-up galleries and dance-until-dawn electro warehouse parties. MORE
visitestonia.com >>
GETTING THERE Return flights from London to Tallinn, Riga and Vilnius start at around £150 with Lufthansa and Air Baltic. lufthansa.com airbaltic.com
TALLINN ESTONIA
RIGA
LATVIA
LITHUANIA
Estonia THE LOWDOWN The smallest of the Baltic nations is all about kitsch seaside towns, grand castles and skiing. Meanwhile,
Kaunas VILNIUS
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Check out Tallinn’s markets
Latvia THE LOWDOWN Latvia has moved on from its Soviet past, and is developing as a top spot for tourists – however, it’s doing so at its own leisurely pace. Even the tourism board says the nation is ‘best enjoyed slowly’. While one million people reside in the busy architectural hodge podge that is the capital, Riga, the countryside offers an entirely different flavour. Here you’ll find stately homes and pretty market towns to stroll around at suitably local speed. HIGHLIGHTS Positivus is Latvia’s most popular music and art festival. Over 25,000 revellers turned up to the 2012 event to watch a monster line-up including The Vaccines and Manic Street Preachers. Held in Salacgriva, it’s a good chance to experience a quaint Latvian coastal town. Alternatively, the capital Riga has plenty to offer. Start by climbing the tower at the spectacular St Peter’s Cathedral (for £1) in Riga’s Old Town. Then make like a local and hire an Air Baltic bike (the Rigan equivalent of a Boris Bike). Ride across the river to explore Unesco site Kalnciema, which boasts some special 8th-century wooden architecture – hardly any other wooden structures from this period have survived in such fine condition. In the evening, local music acts perform on a small stage here while Rigans dance, drink and sing late into the night. OUR TIP Go diving. Trips to the west and northwest coast run regularly with The Baltic Seal Divers Club, which explores dozens of underwater Soviet and German wrecks, as schools of fish swim past. diveclub.lv MORE
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latvia.travel n
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Vilnius: the Lithuanian capital
XXXX WHAT XHEADING ARE THE BALTICS? HERE XXX After World War I, Baltic nations Estonia, Latvia, Lithuania and Finland gained independence from the Russian Empire. These countries became known as the Baltics, due to the fact they surrounded the Baltic Sea. However, Finland is no longer considered a part of the Baltics. The ‘Baltic people’ are those from Latvia and Lithuania, as they derive from ‘Balts’, an IndoEuropean ethnic group. Baltic languages stem from ancient tribes, meaning that culturally Lithuanians and Latvians are similar. Folks from Estonia, however, are called ‘Finnic peoples,’ and originally spoke various languages.
‘Balts’ in Riga
Photos: Toomas Tuul, Getty Images/ iStockphoto, Jaak Nilson, Celia Topping, TNT Images
Tartu has a young vibe
STYLISH FRIENDLY HOSTEL on the top floor of a 100 year old historic building
Located in the centre of Riga on a quiet street close to the Railway station, Central Bus station, Old Town and Airport Bus Stop
It looks more like a stylish cafeteria in the hostel kitchen and the common room is really a youth living room with friendly atmosphere.
Among all the rooms we have 3 special ones Riga a dorm, that represents the capital you stay in Bora Bora for couples in love London for small friend group
YOU ARE MORE THAN WELCOME! Alone, with friends or even group (30 beds) Riga Style Hostel: AlfrĂŠda Kalnina Street 4 - 11, Riga, LV - 1010. Phone: +371 67280830; Mobile: +371 29122213; e-mail: info@rigastylehostel.com
www. rigastylehostel.com
Scanbalt offer fun and inexpensive tours for adventurous travellers who want to experience unique
culture and stunning nature in Scandinavia, Russia and the Baltics including Lapland in winter.
www.scanbaltexperience.com
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DESTINATIONS ADVERTORIAL
Paris: tackle the tower
Rome: the Colosseum
Top 10 Things to do in Europe Check out this Euro bucket list – the essential bits you can’t afford to miss 1. Skydive over the Swiss Alps
3. Explore the Colosseum in Rome
The phrase ‘once in a lifetime experience’ is overused, but in the case of a tandem skydive 12,000ft above the beautiful Swiss Alps, it’s appropriate. One of a handful of locations where you can skydive from a helicopter rather than a plane, here you can enjoy a 20-minute scenic flight over glaciers and snow-capped peaks before returning to earth in style. Feel the rush on Topdeck’s 14-day Western Crossing.
Europe is full of remarkable historic cities, yet the ‘Eternal City’ of Rome still stands out. Imagine yourself as Russell Crowe in Gladiator as you stride into the mighty Colosseum, where 60,000 Romans came to be entertained by games and gladiator fights nearly 2000 years ago. Scream “Are you not entertained?!” on Topdeck’s 13-day Roman Chariot.
2. Party in the clubs of Ibiza
4. Bathe in thermal waters in Budapest
Pacha, Space, Amnesia, Café del Mar … Ibiza’s famous superclubs make it the dance capital of the world, bar none. The best international DJs flock to this stunning Mediterranean island each summer. Get your glowsticks out and join them! Dance the night away on Topdeck’s 10-day Spanish Fiesta.
This majestic city on the mighty River Danube holds a wealth of attractions, yet no visit is complete without taking a dip in one of the city’s famous thermal baths. The most elegant are the Gellert baths, part of the landmark Hotel Gellert complex. Stay at Hotel Gellert and enjoy free entry to the baths on Topdeck’s 28-day Discover Europe.
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TOPDECK TRAVEL
Barcelona: for a bite to eat
Berlin: check out the Wall
5. Drink beer in a Munich beer hall Home to the celebration of brewing perfection that is Oktoberfest, Munich can lay claim to being the beer capital of the world. Sip a stein (or two) of delicious Bavarian beer in one of the city’s legendary beer halls, perhaps tucking in to a roasted pork knuckle while an ‘Oompah’ band plays in the background. Clink glasses and say ‘Prost!’ on Topdeck’s 22-day Europe Unplugged.
6. Watch the sunset over the city walls in Dubrovnik Irish playwright George Bernard Shaw once said “If you want to see heaven on earth, come to Dubrovnik.” If you’ve seen a golden sunset light up the terracotta roofs of this walled city on the Adriatic Sea, it’s difficult to disagree with him. Enjoy the beauty of this Unesco World Heritage City on Topdeck’s 8-day Croatia Sailing.
7. Gamble in the Grand Casino, Monaco Home to Formula 1 drivers, supermodels and assorted billionaires, Monaco is the ultimate playground for the rich and famous. In this most glamorous corner of the beautiful French Riviera, follow in the footsteps of James Bond and have a flutter in the stylish Grand Casino. Try your luck on Topdeck’s 20-day European Getaway.
8. Eat tapas in Barcelona With so much delicious food in Europe, it’s often hard to choose just one dish. No such problem in Spain, however, where tapas restaurants offer the chance to choose several small plates, enabling a group of friends to sample
Croatia: sailing and sunsets
the whole range of Spanish cuisine. Find a dining gem in Barcelona on Topdeck’s 7-day Tapas Trail.
9. Touch the Berlin Wall Germany’s capital found itself occupied by competing Allied powers after World War II, and rising tensions among them led to the Berlin Wall. It was the ultimate symbol of the Cold War and separated families and friends for 28 years. Its fall in 1989 remains one of modern history’s defining moments. Touch a piece of history on Topdeck’s 17-day European Pathway.
10. Enjoy a picnic under the Eiffel Tower The world’s most iconic structure in the world’s most visited city – the Eiffel Tower is simply magical. The green Champs du Mars area stretching beneath the tower is the perfect place for a French picnic – and the backdrop is unforgettable. Feast on our legendary Paris Gourmet Picnic, included on every Topdeck trip which visits Paris!
» Ways to travel
Four fantastic trip styles to choose from: EuroHotel: Character-filled 2/3* local hotels & en-suite rooms on a twin, double or triple share basis. EuroClub: Hostels, cabins, bungalows, even a castle! Varied multi-share accommodation, single sex and usually 4-6 per room. EuroCamping: Spacious twin-share dome tents & comfy air mattresses, staying in Europe’s best campsites. Explorer: Smaller groups & more intimate trips which focus on one country or region in-depth. tntmagazine.com/destinations
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Clockwise from above: hitting the high seas; lazing on deck; getting stuck in; find secret beaches; work in plenty of swimming stops Xxxxxxxxxxxxx
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SAILING > CROATIA
Master and commander Find your sea legs and learn how to helm a yacht off Croatia’s sun-kissed Dalmatian coast. You’ll be growing a grizzled captain’s beard in no time ... EDITED BY JAHN VANNISSELROY
S
ailing around Croatia is like travelling back in time to an era of purity, one devoid of the hustle and bustle that city living entails. The country has fast become a favourite with travelling Antipodeans – and with its beautiful waters, vibrant party scene and untouched, rugged scenery, why wouldn’t it be? But while lying back as someone else sails you around the country’s many islands remains the most popular option for exploring this Balkan wonderland, learn-to-sail holidays are fast becoming a favourite way of seeing Croatia. They’re not difficult, you’ll have full support at all times and it allows you an element of flexibility not available with chartered adventures. Here, we hit the high seas for a one-off experience that also comes with a feeling of accomplishment. Try it – your mates will be calling you ‘Skipper’ in no time.
Sailing away, by Matt Risley I had felt trepidation at helming a 10m-yacht carrying my four crewmates/ potential man overboarders during a week's learning-to-sail holiday off the coast of Murter, deep in the heart of the Croatian isles. Yet a mere 48 hours into our adventure on the waves and everyone's remarkably buoyant. But then when your days consist of lazy lunches at secluded spots, a cloudless sunny sky, spontaneous swimming stops and worrying about nothing but the wind in your sails, it's hard not to be. “By the time you leave you'll be able to tie the stern line under the pushpit, through the fairlead and around the cleat with your eyes closed,” the skipper promises.
And there I was worrying about the language barrier being Croatian. Within five minutes of leaving the quay I'm plonked behind the wheel and encouraged to reverse the massive, very expensive and very dentable boat back into the harbour for “a bit of practice”. The bewilderingly trusting teaching continues and within a couple of days the crew is working in sync to surprisingly satisfying effect. The moment we learn how to tack, gybe, winch, hoist and unhoist the mainsail without clattering each other around the head is a eureka one, and basically ensures we can steer the boat in all directions – powered by nothing but wind alone. Admittedly, there’s the occasional hiccup as we, quite literally, learn the ropes. An attempt to up anchor confines my sunglasses to Davy Jones’s Locker – a flailing dive after them quickly hammers home quite how deep the watery abyss truly is; and my knots definitely do not hold – au revoir dinghy. >> GETTING THERE Fly from London to Zadar or Split with Ryanair. Return flights cost from £50. ryanair.com
CROATIA Zadar
Dalmatian Coast
BOSNIA Split DUBROVNIK
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DESTINATIONS EUROPE The Adriatic Sea: paradise, Balkan-style. Left: sailing away is the way to holiday
Within a couple of days, the crew is working in sync to surprisingly satisfying effect the region’s fish is mouth-wateringly munchable – plotting a course, getting lost, spotting a dolphin, stopping for a cooling splash in picture-postcard turquoise waters, and sailing on to our day’s destination – all while taking turns to sunbathe on the boat, steer or cheer encouragingly when the boat goes around in circles. My newly boozy-and-bearded appearance after a week on the open seas may have left me looking like the love child of Jack Sparrow and Captain Birdseye, but I can't help but feel like a newly nautical convert. ❚ » Matt Risley learned to sail with Activity Yachting. Learn-to-sail holidays cost from £295pp for a week on the boat, based on two people sharing. activityyachting.com
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SECRET CROATIA The relatively undiscovered Istria is the largest peninsula on the Adriatic Sea and is shared by Croatia, Slovenia and Italy. Discover a relaxing land rich in vineyards and olive groves – and don’t forget to sample the famous truffles. Visit the Kornati archipelago for 140 beautiful islands over 330sqm, boasting numerous coves and crystal-clear blue waters. To really get away from it all, you can organise a homestay and live alongside a traditional Kornati family. Somewhere In The Woods is a music festival held at a secret location each July. Like-minded souls enjoy sun, sea and sexy beats. The organisers run other parties, too, so check out facebook.com/somewhereinthewoods.events
The pristine Kornati islands
Photos: Ivo Pervan/ Croatian Tourist Board; Getty; Thinkstock
But there’s a fluidity to our daily set-up that’s unabashedly relaxing. With more than 1000 islands sprinkled off the gorgeous 200-mile Dalmatian coast, the region’s perpetually sun-kissed world is our oyster. Our days consist of grabbing fresh food supplies from whatever remote island hideaway we’re moored at – unsurprisingly,
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STILL HAVEN'T BEEN TO
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Croatia Sailing Specialist
Tours and excursions for groups and individuals
Flotilla Sailing Learn to Sail and Skipper a yacht Bareboat Charters Tel: 01243 641304
info@activityyachting.com
vals Tickets for top concerts & festi
www.hihostels-croatia.com
booking@hfhs.hr
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EUROPE
Wrap up warm in Prague
Buzzing nights in Belgrade
Go wild in Budapest
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Hit hot clubs in Serbia
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cITY BREAKS > Eastern Europe
Go east: secret city breaks Whether you’re into cheap and cheerful markets, buzzing bars, winding backstreets or ancient architecture, we recommend you venture east – and don’t look back WORDS HELEN ELFER
Y
ou’re young, adventurous and skint. Where on earth can you afford to go on holiday? Eastern Europe has to be the answer. Often considerably cheaper than the classic European mini break destinations closer to London, Eastern Europe is packed with new places to discover. The region’s tumultuous history means many of the most exciting cities have been out of bounds for years, but are now ripe for exploring. You’ll find amazing architecture, old and new, to marvel at, breathtaking scenery and delicious new cuisines to try out. And Eastern Europe’s nightlife just goes from strength to strength, boasting quirky bars, cheap beers, fine regional wines and crazy clubs. It’s time to get stuck in. Here are our favourite city breaks from Eastern Europe, all of which are perfect for a short trip.
Sarajevo, Bosnia KNOW Given its violent past, Sarajevo is an astonishingly bright and vibrant city. A walk around the small centre takes you past mosques, churches and cathedrals, many of which still bear bullet marks, a constant reminder of the city’s conflicted history. DO The nightlife in Sarajevo is fun-filled and raucous. Mix with the locals at Kino Bosna, a cinema-turned-hip-bar and live music venue. During the day, learn about Bosnia’s history in the National Museum. facebook.com/kinobosna zemaljskimuzej.ba FACT Sarajevo is famous for its diversity. You’ll find Islam, Orthodoxy, Catholicism and Judaism practised here. MORE bhtourism.ba
Krakow, Poland KNOW With good reason, Krakow is known as Poland’s capital of culture. It has cool jazz concerts, intriguing art galleries and fascinating museums. DO It might be rather chilly here in the winter months, but Krakow has an underground network of wine bars, restaurants and clubs where you can hang out and keep toasty warm in the evenings. One great restaurant to try is Chlopskie Jadlo (chlopskiejadlo.pl/en) which serves traditional Polish dishes, such as hearty soups and grilled fish. During the day, wrap up warm and visit Rynek Glowny, which is the largest medieval market square in Europe. Don’t forget to listen out for the Krakow bugle call which is played on the hour from St Mary’s Basilica. FACT Unlike Warsaw, which was razed to the ground during World War II, Krakow was left untouched. The reason? The German governor had his headquarters based here. MORE krakow.pl/english >> GETTING THERE Lufthansa flies London to Belgrade from £209, Budapest from £199, Krakow from £229, Prague from £199, and Sarajevo from £440, all return. lufthansa.com Ryanair flies to Bratislava from £54 return bookryanair.com
POLAND
Prague
Krakow
CZECH REPUBLIC Bratislava
SLOVAKIA Budapest
HUNGARY BOSNIA
Belgrade
Sarajevo
SERBIA
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Belgrade: join the arty party and see street performers (here and below)
Bratislava Castle, Slovakia
Belgrade, Serbia KNOW It may not be the prettiest of places but what Serbia’s capital lacks in the looks department, Belgrade more than makes up for with its nightlife. DO Serbians really know how to drink. Let your hair down and join them in cocktail bars and clubs such as Belle Epoque, The Tube Club and Club Magacin where the drinking and dancing will carry on until the small hours. If your head doesn’t ache too much the following day, fit in a visit around all of the imposing sights this ravaged city has to offer. Include a trip to St Sava’s Temple – which is the largest Orthodox church in the world – and the famous palaces of the royal compound (for these you’ll need to book ahead – visit royalfamily.org FACT Apparently there’s an old Serbian law that each main course has to include 250g of meat. We haven’t heard of this being enforced recently, but vegetarians should beware! MORE serbia.travel
Budapest, Hungary KNOW Budapest has a young, trendy vibe, and the city is bursting with artistic locals who spend long evenings hanging out in traditional coffee shops and bars. The scenic Danube winds through the centre – stroll along its banks to get your bearings when you first arrive. DO Budapest is famous for its rom kocsma (ruin pubs), which are drinking spots that can be found in disused or condemned buildings. The city’s most renowned rom
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kocsma is Szimpla (szimpla.hu). It’s decked out with a sawn-in-half bathtub that has been reincarnated as a pair of armchairs. Also squeeze in a trip to one of the city’s 120 thermal springs, most of which are housed in spas and communal baths. FACT Budapest was historically considered three cities – Pest, Obuda and Buda. Although grouped together, the cities were divided by the Danube River which forks in the middle of the city. MORE visit-hungary.com
Bratislava, Slovakia KNOW In spite of the medieval centre and old cobbled streets, Bratislava is an extremely fashionable city, full of chic boutiques and expensive bars and restaurants where the residents go to see and be seen. DO The city centre’s main attraction is Bratislava Castle, which is full of gruesome-looking old weaponry as well as some less intimidating antiques. You can climb up the castle’s biggest tower for glorious views over the Danube and Old Town. Just below the castle is St Martin’s Cathedral, which is the largest and one of the oldest Gothic churches in Bratislava. Relax afterwards with a coffee and a pastry in one of the Old Town’s many streetside cafes. FACT Bratislava is fondly known by locals as ‘The Little Big City’ because it’s the smallest city in the region but has a lot to offer. MORE slovakia.travel
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Discover the real winter in Lapland ¸Santa Claus wishing you a warm welcome ¸Northern lights colouring the sky ¸Thick blanket of snow ensuring excellent skiing conditions
¸Quiet, powerful nature: 100% stress free environment and holiday ¸Rich local culture and heritage to explore ¸Reindeer strolling in the wilderness
Like us facebook.com/ hostellit.fi
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cITY BREAKS > Eastern Europe
Rynek Glowny, Krakow
MORE OF THE EAST While you’re on this side of the continent, why not travel a little further and include St Petersburg in your itinerary? Here are our highlights from Russia’s most beautiful city.
Czesky Krumlov
Photos: TNT Images, AFP/Getty, iStockphoto
Prague, Czech Republic KNOW Prague might be best known as a cheap ‘boysonly’ destination to many Brits – thanks in large part to the cheap beer – but that’s doing this lovely place a real disservice. Visit both of the main districts, the Stare Mesto (Old Town) and Nove Mesto (New Town), which fall each side of the Vltava River, to get a sense of both the past and present of this vibrant place. DO It’s a good idea to start with a walk over Charles Bridge where, along with the river views, you’ll pass buskers and hawkers pushing everything from snacks to souvenirs. Then seek out one of the best views in Prague by taking the funicular to the top of Petrín Hill. From here you can slog up the 299 steps to the summit of the Petrín Lookout Tower and be rewarded with sweeping views across the city. At some point during your visit to Prague, you should also try and spend a day in Cesky Krumlov, which is about three hours away by bus. This small city’s historic Old Town and famous castle is a Unesco World Heritage Site. Of course, everyone wants a piece of Prague’s infamous nightlife during their holiday. A great place to start is at The Prague Beer Museum, a bar which features 30 Czech microbrews on tap. Move on to the Old Town where most of Prague’s mega clubs and bars are situated, including some top gay clubs. Then it’s just a matter of waiting to see where the night takes you (probably past a few stag parties, we’d guess). praguebeermuseum.com FACT Prague Castle is the largest castle in the world. MORE czechtourism.com n
Fyodor Dostoyevsky’s House Here, the Russian novelist wrote The Brothers Karamazov. The house has been restored and is now a museum displaying his original manuscripts. Visit and be inspired. Find it: Kuznechnyy Pereulok 512 The Palace Square It’s hard to miss the red granite Alexander Column that marks the square, which is a vast monument to the Russian victory over Napoleon. The yellow-and-white Winter Palace, former home to tzars, is also here and holds the Hermitage Art Gallery. Don’t miss the Gold Rooms and the Diamond Rooms, which display the development of the jeweller’s craft from as early as the third millennium BC. Find it: hermitagemuseum.org The Summer Palace One of those magnificently picture-perfect locations, the Summer Palace and Gardens of Peter the Great are a must-see while you’re in St Petersburg. It’s been nicknamed the ‘Venice of the North’, not just because of the scenic canals that weave through the grounds, but also owing to the lavishly sculpted marble statues and fountains that are found here, too. Find it: rusmuseum.ru/eng/home
Summer Palace and Gardens
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The Eiffel Tower by night
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The Erotic Museum
Photos: TNT Images, Getty
At the top of Montmartre hill
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PARIS > FRANCE
Paris for the weekend It’s only a couple of hours from London to Paris, so there’s no excuse for not visiting the French capital. Here, we give you the lowdown on making the best of it
Photos: TNT Images, Getty
EDITED BY JAHN VANNISSELROY
T
o really get to know Paris requires multiple visits. The city is a mysterious lover, slowly revealing more secrets with each rendezvous. The beauty in this, however, is that each of your trips to the French capital will be truly unique. Here, we give you a headstart on how to make the most of this city of love and lights.
DAY TWO Morning
DAY ONE Morning
Afternoon
Beat the crowds with an early trip to the Musée du Louvre. Here, you’ll find masterpieces including Aphrodite, Liberty Leading The People and, of course, the Mona Lisa. Don’t forget to take a few minutes to lounge around the Louvre Palace courtyard and its iconic pyramid. louvre.fr
Afternoon Prepare to be astounded at the Fragonard Vet Museum, which houses anatomical oddities. There’s some real freaky shit: think the preserved body of a baby ‘merman’ born with a ‘fin’ instead of feet, and a wonderful collection of ‘monsters’ including two-headed and eight-legged animals. musee.vet-alfort.fr
Evening Fat Tire Bike Tours runs a 13km cycle tour which takes you on the roads of Paris to explore the glowing city. See the Louvre and the Eiffel Tower all lit up, ogle the apartment of Johnny Depp while you taste Paris’s most-loved ice cream at the Glacier Berthillon in Meudon, and reminisce at the Flame of Liberty, an unofficial memorial to Princess Diana. fattirebiketours.com/paris
For a stirring panorama, head to La Basilique de SacréCœur. Positioned at the top of the Montmartre hill, it’s the highest point in Paris, and offers amazing views. sacre-coeur-montmartre.com
Visit the Erotic Museum, where you’ll find Chinese ceramic porn and an early 20th-century black-and-white blue movie involving nuns and a naughty little dog. musee-erotisme.com
Evening You’re already in the red-light district of Pigalle, so stroll down the notorious Boulevard de Clichy, home to the Moulin Rouge and numerous sex shops. Then reward the weekend’s efforts with live music or a club night at converted theatre Le Divan du Monde. divandumonde.com
UK
GETTING THERE The Eurostar leaves London St Pancras daily from 6.22am. Prices from £69 return eurostar.com
LONDON
PARIS
FRANCE
Return flights from London Luton to Paris Charles de Gaulle start at about £76 with easyJet easyjet.com
tntmagazine.com/destinations
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