757 by TNT MAGAZINE

September 2015 Issue 757

ROAD TRIP ANTIPODEAN STYLE Grab your backpack and hit the open road

DELECTABLE DARWIN Follow us up to the Top End as we check out Darwin

E U L B G I B E H T INTO s! e experience iv F p o T r u o t ef? Check ou e R r ie r r a B t a e Doing the Gr

+ WILD SWIMMING CAMPING IN NZ EAST COAST OZ SKIING EUROPE

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- SCORE YOURSELF -

$50 OFF YOUR TRIP AT STA TRAVEL Book in store today or phone 134 782

Terms and conditions apply. Valid on all new confirmed bookings made in conjunction with a minimum of $500 worth of accommodation, touring and/or travel insurance. Not to be used in conjunction with any other offer. Not redeemable for cash. Non refundable if part used. Offer expires 31 December 2015

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EDITORIAL Editor James Clark james.clark@tntmagazine.com DESIGN AND PRODUCTION Design and production manager Lisa Ferron SALES Sales manager Jaqui Ward jaqui.ward@tntmagazine.com

FROM THE EDITOR

STARTRACK MEDIA LTD CEO Kevin Ellis Chairman Ken Hurst PUBLISHER Startrack Media Ltd PRINTED BY Spotpress PICTURES iStock | TNT Images | Supplied Cover image: Deep Divers Den.

I think I may have got a little carried away last month prophesizing Spring, but I’ve seen the forecast and it’s finally here. If you’ve just arrived in Oz then embrace the warmer temperatures as they already start to plummet back home in the UK.

TNT Magazine online tntdownunder.com

One of our favourite ways to travel Down Under is to jump in a car or campervan and head out on the highway. It’s time to dump the airport and hit the road. It’s the only real way to experience what New Zealand and Australia has to offer.

WHERE TO GET TNT

Darwin’s dry season can be a struggle, but if you can handle the heat it comes a live with a buzzing market, packed bars and an arty cinema. You’ll have a ball, but do watch out for those saltwater crocodiles.

SEE tntdownunder.com/magazine-location.html for pick-up points

Train travel is fast becoming the transport of choice for skiers, take a look at our guide to some of the best ski slopes in Europe and best train journeys in the world. Just a little bit of inspiration for when you’re on your way home. If you’re food obsessed like me then take a look at our interview with Thai chef Sujet Saenkham, he’s gained fantastic notoriety feeding Sydney (look out for his restaurants) and cookbook, Spice I Am is about to hit the shelves. Every month we run our OZ Eats and OZ Drinks section within. I’d really like to give some of our readers that have a bit of a flair for writing, and love food and or drink the opportunity to get published. We’re also always on the lookout for great feature ideas, so get in touch if there’s something that you think we should know about. Until next month!

James

james.clark@tntmagazine.com

TNT Magazine is printed on paper from sustainable forests. There is no business connection between the proprietors of this magazine and TNT Ltd, the worldwide transportation group. TNT Magazine does not assume responsibility for unsolicited submissions – material is sent at the owner’s risk. TNT Magazine accepts advertising material and other contributions in good faith, and takes no responsibility for claims, errors or omissions. Copyright here and abroad of all original materials is held by TNT Magazine. Reproduction in whole or part is forbidden, except with permission of the publishers.

Tasmania

Bay of Islands

Northern Territory

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THIS MONTH DIARY 6 FOOD & DRINK 10 PUBS

GIGS 16 CHATROOM

WILD SWIMMING

TRAVEL TOP 5: BARRIER REEF 24 OZ: DARWIN

TOP 10: EAST COAST 34 NZ: ROAD TRIPS

NZ: CAMPING TRIPS

BIG TRIP: SKIING

AUSTRALIA LISTINGS

WET ‘N’ WILD

NEW ZEALAND LISTINGS

We have the low down on the best spots in Oz to take the plunge

CAREERS 82

ON THE COVER

INTO THE BIG BLUE

We show you the very best that the Great Barrier Reef has to offer

DELECTABLE DARWIIN

Cool off and beat the heat with our guide to all that is great and good in Darwin

EAST COAST DELIGHTS 34 Be sure to catch all the highlights the East Coast of Oz has to offer

ROAD TRIPP’IN

Take a drive along some epic scenic highways with our guide to the best routes Down Under has to offer

SKIING BY TRAIN

8 4

Travels by train to get to the white stuff

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T S E F R E OKTOB

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2 Day Wilderness Explorer

Enjoy 2 days of fun and adventure!

• Departing Adelaide with pic set-down from selected hosk-up & • Return coach & ferry transf tels • Visit Rob’s Shearing & She ers ep Emu Ridge Eucalyptus DistilleDogs, Seal Bay, sandboarding at Litt ry, Sahara, Vivonne Bay, Hanso le Koala Sanctuary, Flinders Chn Bay ase National Park, Remarkable Roc ks & Admirals Arch • Accommodation at Vivonn e Bay Lodge with FREE use of kayaks , bikes & WiFi • Meals include 1 breakfast, 2 lunches & a BBQ dinner

Call 08 8202 8678 or vis kiadventuretours.com.itau

The wildlife, wonder and beauty of Kangaroo Island... TNTDOWNUNDER.COM

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OZDIARY

@tntdownunder

OUR TOP PICKS MELBOURNE FRINGE FESTIVAL $89

Sept 23 – Oct 4 Victoria

Expect a staggering 4,000 artists and nearly 300 shows, from circus to visual arts, cabaret to dance, and theatre to comedy. There’s got to be something for everyone here. Times vary

Get a program

events going on all over the city. melbournefringe.com.au

SMH GOOD FOOD MONTH FREE

Oct 1 - 31, Sydney

A month of appetising food and drinks events awaits you at Good Food Month, chefs, restaurants, farmers, wine experts and artisan food producers all go on show. Times vary

St Mary’s Cathedral,

St Mary’s Road goodfoodmonth.com

MUST DO SPRING RACING CARNIVAL

September – November , Sydney

The Melbourne Cup Carnival. It’s not just about the horses...

SYDNEY RUNNING FESTIVAL Sept 20, Sydney $28

Four events to suit all ages and abilities – the marathon, half marathon, 9km bridge run and the 3.5km family fun run. What is unique about this event is that you run along and past some of Sydney’s most iconic sites. 6.15 - 9am starts (depending on race) Bradfield Park, Milsons Point sydneyrunningfestival.com.au

The Spring Carnival is one of Australia’s most exciting sporting and social events. It commences $35 with the underwood stakes at Caulfield and continues for 65 days at race meets from Melbourne’s iconic Flemington racecourse and other tracks around Victoria. The highlight is the four-day Melbourne Cup Carnival, featuring the renowned Emirates Melbourne Cup held in November. Various times

Flemington Racecourse,Melbourne

OZ ASIA FESTIVAL

TOYOTA AFL Sept 23 - Oct 4, Adelaide GRAND FINAL A two-week event of theatre, dance, music, film, exhibitions and food. The highlight of the event is the Moon Lantern Festival, held in Elder Park on the 15th day of the eighth lunar month of the Chinese calendar. VAR

Times vary Theatres and exhibitions spaces at the Adelaide Festival Centre. adelaidefestivalcentre.com.au

Oct 3, Melbourne Attention coffee lovers, the Rocks Aroma Festival is back on July 26. With tasting cups just $2 you can try a bit of everything. In the lead up to the festival day (from July 6), there will be workshops and activities for coffee enthusiasts too. FREE

From 10am Melbourne Cricket afl.com.au Ground

SUPERCHEAP AUTO BATHURST 1000 Oct 8 - 11, Bathurst Thousands of race fans making head to Mount Panorama each year for the power, noise and the heart stopping atmosphere across four thrilling days of racing action and great facilities. $29

Times vary Mount Panorama, NSW v8supercars.com.au

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MELBOURNE FESTIVAL Oct 18 - 25, Melbourne One of the world’s leading arts festivals and Australia’s premier celebration of art and culture from around the world. Each Festival brings an unparalleled feast of theatre, dance, music, visual arts, film and outdoor events to Melbourne each October. Times vary Get a program events going on all over the city melbournefestival.com.au

V8 SUPERCARS CASTROL GOLD COAST 600 $5+

Oct 23 - 25, Gold Coast

The Gold Coast’s biggest party hits the streets of Surfers Paradise. Expect Australia’s top motorsport talent, the event combines trackside thrills with allstar entertainment from international music acts. 10.30am Gold Coast Highway, Surfers Paradise QLD premier.ticketek.com.au

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THE AGE GOOD FOOD MONTH

Nov 1 - 31, Melbourne Everything from iconic Night Noodle Markets to an all-star cast of world-class chefs and celebrates everything from three hat restaurants to cool bars, great pubs and fine produce. Expect food, drink and more food and drink. FREE

4.30pm-8pm

Various street

food stalls, bars & restaurants melbourne.goodfoodmonth.com

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OZDIARY

@tntdownunder

Glitter Festival! The Gold Coast City’s inaugural festival. Get your glam on!

PERTH

GOLD COAST

CAIRNS

FOOTBALL AS THEATRE SEPT 22 - 26 / TIMES VARY / FREE Exploring football as an art form, this physically charged performance has the audience living the surreal experience of a football match.

GLITTER FESTIVAL 2015 SEP 28 - OCT 25 / 6PM + / $28 The Gold Coast’s first ever celebration of LGBTIQAP+ community. Basically an awesome party full of everyone and everything.

TOURISM KURANDA OCT 2 / 9.30 - 3.30PM / FREE Reckon we’ve got a new experience for you here, a market in the rainforest.

Perth Institute of Contemporary Art, 51 pica.org.au

135 Bundall Road, Surfers Paradise Road theartscentregc.com.au

THE WA BEER AND BEEF FESTIVAL SEPT 26 - 28 / 12 - 9PM / $25 The best brews from 20 local, interstate and international breweries and crowd favourite beef dishes from Perth’s best food trucks.

BUSKERS BY THE CREEK OCT 17 - 18 / 4PM / $10+ International festival fare to tempt all tastebuds and artisans will be showcasing their creative wares and talents. Photographers, painters, sculptors and other artists in motion.

James Street

Oakover Grounds, 14 Yukich Close, Middle Swan

beerandbeeffestival.com.au

MY FAMILY IS WEIRDER THAN YOUR FAMILY OCT 3 -12 / 12 NOON / £12 Comedian and songwriter Josh Earl, has a weird family. You think your family is weird? Watch him take the mick out of his relatives, hilarious. Channel 7 Circus Tent, Perth Cultural Centre awesomearts.com

Currumbin Creek Esplanade/Windser Park premier.ticketek.com.au

FREE HALLOWEEN AT SOUTHPORT YACHT CLUB OCT 30 / 6.30PM / FREE Happy Halloween! Trick or treat! Come and join in a fun packed evening with face painting, fun for kids and fun for adults. 1 Macarthur Parade, Main Beach southportyachtclub.com.au

Rob Veivers Drive, Kuranda kurandamarkets.com.au

KEWARRA BEACH RESORT & SPA OCT 7 / 7 - 9PM / $35 A night under the stars with Cairns Greg Mullens to be taken on a magical evening of star gazing amongst the tropical forest and moonlight. A great way to learn and feel at one with nature. Kewarra Street Kewarra Beach www.kewarra.com

ALEX WILLIAMSON - THAT GUY FROM THE INTERNET OCT 31 / 8 - 9PM / $20 Alex is hilarious. He’s already sold out Edinburgh, Adelaide, Auckland, Melbourne and Perth this year, so we recommend getting tickets quick. 64 Collins Avenue, Edge Hill cairnscivictheatre.com.au

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MELBOURNE

SYDNEY

CHINATOWN MURDER TOUR SEP 26 / 8PM / $30 Join the team at Melbourne Murder Tours for a murderous evening that you won’t forget, as we guide you though the oldest Chinese community in the western world. Hear spine tingling stories of the most dangerous street in Melbourne, as you are taken to the locations where brutal murders and bizarre events have taken place. This is a 90 minute walking tour through the streets and the lanes of Little Bourke Street led by a costumed theatrical historian.

ASIA ON YOUR DOORSTEP OCT 1 -31 / TIMES VARY / FREE Wow, wow and wow, we literally love asian food and can not wait for the event to kick off. Loads os Sydney’s Asian restaurants and eateries are getting involved. Look out for Little Eat Street Friday, Night Thaim Street Food, Chinatown Evening Tasting Tour and the Food Court Crawl. There’s too many for us to mention here. Your best bet is to take a look on the website, you’re going to be full this October. Chinatown area whatson.cityofsydney.nsw.gov.au

Tianjin Gardens, Spring Street undergroundcinema.com.au

FAB FRIDAYS OCT 11 / 10.30PM / FREE Established in 1999 the Club is the best place to see young rising stars, household names, and the odd big fancy superstar who misses the feeling of performing to an intimate crowd. Friday is fun and not to be missed. 5 Carson Place thebutterflyclub.com

DEAKIN TWILIGHT FESTIVAL ‘15 OCT 19 / 4 - 8PM / FREE A great fun afternoon of fireworks, market stalls, foods, drink and of course funfair rides. Awesome fun for everyone. Deakin’s Melbourne Burwood Campus deakin.edu.au

LISTEN OUT OCT 3 / 5.30PM / FREE Australia’s national dance music event is back for its third year Listen Out will be touring quality dance music acts around Australia and in Melbourne for one night only. Centennial Park listenout.com.au

ART AFTER HOURS OCT 7 / 5 - 10 PM / $15 The exhibition Julia Margaret Cameron from the Victoria and Albert Museum, London features over 100 photographs that trace Cameron’s early ambition and mastery of the medium. Join teh craze at Art After Hours to see the exhibition and celebrate Cameron’s groundbreaking work with a special series of free talks, live music and events. 3B Art Gallery Rd

r o f n i s o h W n i y e n Syd ? r e b Novem send a tagged "selfie" with "I'm IN" to our facebook page to be a part of the best Adventure Travel Holiday EVER!!

eventbrite.com.au

CAPES AND COCKTAILS FUNDRAISER OCT 23 / 7PM-1AM / $65 Great opportunity to dress up as a superhero and not get strange looks. Whether it’s superman, the incredible hulk, spiderman, or thor that you’re into get dressed up, get drunk and raise money for Anonymous X that help Melbourne’s homeless and less fortunate on a temporary basis. It promises to be a great night. The Eureka Hotel,

LIGHT THE CITY OCT 31 / 6 - 11PM / FREE A night-time bike ride a round Sydney like no other. Experience light installations and special effects on a 2.5-kilometre loop. Finish in an outdoor lounge to dance the night away at a silent disco, race a friend on the roller racing stage, or relax and enjoy the views of the harbour. You might even win a new bike for making the effort ie lots of colour and light.

1 Church Street Richmond

Mrs Macquaries Road

capesncocktails.com

artgallery.nsw.gov.au

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NZEATS

@tnt_downunder

BITE SIZE TOTO’S ITALIAN Italian restaurants. The world has plenty, right? Why try another? Well Toto isn’t just any Italian restaurant – oh no. It’s won a host of awards over the years and, best of all, on weekdays from 3pm to 6pm you can enjoy drink specials and free pizza. That’s right, FREE PIZZA. Everything else on the menu is smashing too. You’ll never look down on Italian again. totorestaurant.co.nz

THE RE STORE Northbridge might have become a cool hangout in recent years, but this place transcends times and trends. Central to the Italian community since it opened way back in 1936, head there for lunch and join the queue out of the door for a divine made-to-order deli roll (about $4). Pick up some great wine, or even grappa, while you’re there. facebook.com/the-re-store-leederville

EMPORIUM EATERY & BAR Napier, NZ

Over in Napier – the east coast’s Art Deco capital – is Emporium, a stylish, laid-back eatery and bar. Part of the Masonic Hotel, the current building has existed since 1932 – rebuilt and reformed from New Zealand’s devastating 1931 earthquake – and is full of heritage and vintage decor from various periods. Old battered suitcases, well-used bicycles and typewriters line the ceiling, black-and-white photographs adorn the walls, and classic movies are on show. Competition for outdoor tables overlooking the esplanade and Marine Parade is high on sunny days, while inside, the big open space, high ceilings, and dark wood make this an elegant place to stop for lunch, dinner with friends, a quick drink or to relax with a glass of wine and the newspaper. THE GRUB There’s no real style, just a breadth of the best on offer. Open from 7am until 11pm, the menu features everything from poached eggs on wholegrain, local green lip mussels, and prawn, rocket and calabrese pizza, to Eton mess and baklava NZ style: served with Hokey Pokey ice cream. BEHIND THE BAR Manager Shaya has carefully crafted the extensive drinks menu to include craft beers, every spirit imaginable, and of course wines from the Hawke’s Bay region in which it sits. BILL PLEASE Mains range from $23 for a pizza to $30 for steak. A couple can expect to pay around $140 for two courses, with sides, dessert, and a bottle of wine. VERDICT Merging the space between bar and restaurant, it’s a place to just be and watch the world go by. Francesca Baker THE SCENE

Photos: Facebook

THE GRILL

Created by celebrity chef Sean Connolly, this place is a celebration of ‘great food and good company’ and you’ll find a distinctly Kiwi accent to the menu. Most ingredients are locally sourced, as are the wines, and, whether you want a casual lunch with pals or a more sophisticated dinner (perhaps you’re on a date), there’s something to suit every occasion. skycityauckland.co.nz/restaurants/thegrill/

Cnr of Tennyson Street & Marine Parade, Napier

emporiumbar.co.nz

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TWO ROW BAR Cult beer

Walking in, you’re tempted to order a latte not a beer. The interior fits the trendy north-side café mould with flowers atop a timber communal table, exposed light globes and flawless white walls. But look a little closer and you’ll notice that the flower jars are filled with malted barley. It’s the home of Melbourne’s craft beer cult, where brew fanatics chat to knowledgeable, friendly staff at the bar and hang out with mates in plush leather chairs upstairs. BEHIND THE BAR The main draw card is the five constantly rotating taps. When we visited there was a kriek lambic Belgian beer made with fermented morello cherries, as well as Mikkelle Brunch Weasel, an American imperial stout-style beer brewed in Denmark. There’s also a permanent list of 14 Australian beers, along with limited-edition seasonal brews and more than 50 cellar beers that range from $12 to $42. And we haven’t even mentioned their bourbon and whiskey collection. THE GRUB A small menu tempts with soft pretzels with beer mustard, charcuterie and cheese platters and ploughman’s boards. Grilled cheese sandwiches are the signature dish. BILL PLEASE There’s something for every wallet size. You’ll pay the same price as anywhere else for more familiar brews, but you can also swap champagne for a special cellar beer to celebrate an occasion, such as the $67, 750ml imperial stout. VERDICT This local haunt has a warm, inviting feel. Brew virgins are more than welcome to join and can expect a free lesson in beer with their drink. Sofia Levin THE SCENE

3 OF THE BEST BEACH BARS

tworowbar.com.au

CAMBUS WALLACE

STUFFED BEAVER

THE ANCHOR

When you’re inside The Cambus Wallace on the Gold Coast it feels like the heart of a cargo ship, stacked with liquor and the joviality you might get on board at night. Indeed, the bar’s name comes from a shipwreck; The Cambus Wallace foundered off the Gold Coast near Stradbroke Island in 1894. We’re glad it’s been revived.

Bondi beach’s fantastically named Stuffed Beaver is a Canadian-themed sports bar – honest, it is not a strip joint. The decor is something to behold; think old framed photographs, music posters, and skateboard decks. Seriously cool. From the moment you arrive you know you’re in for a real treat. One word sums it up really: Dude.

Another Bondi joint, The Anchor has only been around since 2012, but has a bit of a cult following and is known for its cocktails made with love and affection. They taste so good you’ll want more, and then some more. Bondi Backpackers is nextdoor and the place is constantly heaving. Tequila’s their speciality. Margarita anyone?

thecambuswallace.com.au

stuffedbeaver.com.au

anchorbarbondi.com

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Photos: Stuffed Beaver, Facebook, Sofia Levin

351 Smith Street, Fitzroy, Victoria

13/09/2015 9:38 pm

OZPUBS SYDNEY Anchor Bar 8 Campbell Parade, Bondi Beach anchorbarbondi.com Bar Century 1/640, George St, CBD barcentury.com.au Beach Road Hotel 71 Beach Road, Bondi Beach beachroadbondi.com.au Candy’s Apartment 22 Bayswater Road, Potts Point candys.com.au Coogee Pavilion 169 Dolphin St, Coogee beachpalacehotel.com.au DOME Bar 589 Crown Street, Surry Hills domefunctions.com Donny’s Bar 7 Market Ln, Manly donnys.com.au Flinders Hotel 63-65 Flinders St, Surry Hills theflindershotel.com.au Hotel Bondi 178 Campbell Parade, Bondi hotelbondi.com.au Hotel Steyne 75 The Corso, Manly steynehotel.com.au In Situ 1/18 Sydney Rd, Manly insitumanly.com.au Kinselas Hotel 383 Bourke St, Darlinghurst kinselas.com.au

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Oxford Art Factory 38-46 Oxford St, Darlinghurst oxfordartfactory.com Ryan’s Paragon Hotel Loftus St, CBD hotelparagon.com.au Scary Canary 469 Kent St, CBD scarycanarybar.com Scubar 4 Rawson Place, CBD scubar.com.au Side Bar 509 Pitt St, CBD wakeup.com.au/sidebar The Beresford 354 Bourke St, Surry Hills merivale.com.au/ theberesfordhotel The Palace Hotel George St, CBD palacehotelsydney.com.au The Vanguard 42 King St, Newtown thevanguard.com.au The White Horse 381 Crown St, Surry Hills thewhitehorsesurryhills.com.au Trinity Bar 505 Crown St, Surry Hills trinitybar.com.au 3 Wise Monkeys 555 George St, CBD 3wisemonkeys.com.au 4 Pines 29/43-45 East Esplanade, Manly 4pinesbeer.com.au

MELBOURNE

Black Pearl 304 Brunswick St, Fitzroy blackpearlbar.com.au Cherry Bar 103 Flinders Lane, CBD cherrybar.com.au Corner Hotel 57 Swan Street, Richmond cornerhotel.com Eden Bar and Nightclub 1/163 Russell Street, CBD edenbar.com.au Esplanade Hotel 11 The Esplanade, St Kilda espy.com.au Northcote Social Club 301 High Street, Northcote northcotesocialclub.com

ADELAIDE The Apple Bar 5-9 Synagogue Pl, CBD theapplebar.com.au Earl of Leicester Hotel 85 Leicester Street, Parkside earl.com.au Electric Circus 17 Crippen Place, CBD crippenplace.com Grace Emily Hotel 232 Waymouth St, CBD yourbars.com.au The Promethean 116 Grote St, CBD theprom.com.au

PERTH

Palace Theatre 20-30 Bourke St, CBD palace.com.au

The Clink 14-16 South Terrace, Fremantle theclink.com.au

Shamiana 420 Lonsdale St, CBD shamiana.com.au

Subiaco Hotel 465 Hay Street, Subiaco subiacohotel.com.au

Star Bar 160 Clarendon Street starbarhotel.com.au

The Shed 69-71 Aberdeen St, Northbr. the-shed.com.au

The Gin Mill 173 High St, Prahran theginmillprahran.com

The Windsor 112 Mill Point Rd, thewindsorsouthperth.com.au

The Hi-Fi 125 Swanston Street, CBD thehifi.com.au

Voodoo Lounge 174 James St, Northbridge thevoodoolounge.com.au

The Night Owl 35 Elizabeth Street, CBD facebook.com

BRISBANE

The Night Cat 137-141 Johnston St, Fitzroy thenightcat.com.au

Canvas Club 16b Logan St, Woolloongabba canvasclub.com.au

Marlborough Hotel 145 King St, Newtown marlboroughhotel.com.au

Asian Beer Cafe Level 3 Melbourne Central, CBD asianbeercafe.com.au

The Penny Black 420 Sydney Road, Brunswick thepennyblack.com.au

GPO Hotel 740 Anne St, Fortitude Valley gpohotel.com.au

Mount Batten Hotel 701 George Street, CBD sydneycityhostels.com.au

Bar Humbug 586 Little Bourke St, CBD barhumbug.com.au

The Tote 67-71 Johnston Street, Coll. thetotehotel.com

Hotel LA 68 Petrie Terrace, CBD hotella.com.au

New Brighton Hotel 71 The Corso, Manly newbrightonhotel.com.au

Brutale 18 Corrs Lane, CBD brutale.com.au

Turf Bar 131 Queen St, CBD turfbar.com.au

Iceworks 157 Given Terrace, Paddington iceworks.com.au

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Pig ‘N’ Whistle Riverside 123 Eagle Street, CBD pignwhistle.com.au The Exchange Hotel 131 Edward St, CBD theexchange.com.au The Fringe Bar Cnr Ann St & Constance St, Fortitude Valley fringebar.com.au The Met Nightclub 56a/256 Wickham St, Fortitude Valley themet.com.au Toro Bar 416 Milton Rd, Auchenflower facebook.com Super Whatnot 48 Burnett Lane superwhatnot.com

GOLD COAST Benowa Tavern 117 Ashmore Rd, Benowa benowatavern.com.au Blush Nightclub 21 Orchid Avenue, Surfers Paradise blushnightclub.com.au Coolangatta Sands Hotel Griffith St, Coolangatta coolangattasandshotel.com.au Shooters Superclub Shop 46 The Mark, Orchid Avenue, Surfers Paradise shooterssuperclub.com

CAIRNS Ba8 Lounge Bar Shangri-La Hotel, The Pier at the Marina, Pier Point shangri-la.com Dunwoody’s Tavern 317 Sheridan St, North Cairns dunwoodys.com.au Salt House 6/2 Pier Point Rd, CBD

Quackers for Bar Hum Bug

DUCK RAGOUT TO DIE FOR AT BAR HUM BUG This place is tucked away in the CBD’s west end in Melbourne and has ridden the wave of the west-side’s emergence from its seedy past. It has a good atmosphere, serves a great selection of beers and cooks up a mean duck ragout – what more do you need? 586 Little Bourke St, Melbourne barhumbug.com.au

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12:00PM - 2:30AM

garlic, chilli, olive oil, parsley, parmesan

eggplant, fresh tomato, mozzarella, mascarpone

tomato, taleggio cheese, potato, rosemary

tomato, mozzarella, zucchini, sundried tomatoes, parmesan

mascarpone, fetta, mozzarella, cherry tomatoes

tomato, mozzarella, fresh mushrooms, parsley

tomato, mozzarella, grilled capsicums, parmesan

roasted pumpkin, soy cheese, pinenuts, rosemary

tomato, beans, corn chips, jalapenos, sour cream,

AGLIO OLIO

MELANZANA

TALEGGIO

ZUCCHINE

BIANCA AL POMODORO

FUNGHI

PEPPERONATA

ORGANICO

PONCHO

tomato, mozzarella, calabrese salami

tomato, parmesan, mozzarella, spiced lamb, rocket,

CALABRESE

AGNELLO

lamb & leek sausage, tomato, onion, capsicum, mozzarella, rosemary, oregano

bacon, anchovies, egg, baby cos, parmesan, caesar dressing

chicken mince marinated in taco spices, iceberg lettuce, salsa, mozzarella

SALSICCIA FESTA

CAESAR

MEXICOQ

smoked salmon, spinach, mozzarella, mascarpone

prawn, ginger, garlic, chilli, coriander, caeser dressing, lemon, bean sprouts

tomato, mozzarella, calamari marinated in garlic, chilli & ginger, onions, capers, rosemary oil

SALMONE

LO ZENZERO PRAWN

CALAMARI

GLUTEN FREE BASES AVAILABLE FOR ALL PIZZAS — EXTRA $2.5. ALL TOPPINGS ARE GLUTEN FREE.

tomato, olives, anchovies, garlic, chilli, capers

NAPOLETANA

SEAFOOD

tomato, gorgonzola, basil, prosciutto

GORGONZOLA

pinenuts, sultanas

tomato, ham, artichokes, mushrooms, olives

MEAT

pesto, semi-dried tomato, goats cheese, red onion

4 STAGIONI

LA CAPRA

spring onions, spanish onion, mozzarella

halloumi cheese (saganaki), green olives, lemon

EL GRECO

P I Z Z Z Z A

tomato, mozzarella, basil

VEGETARIAN

SAT - SUN

MON - FRI 11:30AM - 2:30AM

MARGHERITA

KITCHEN OPEN —

9.9

8.9

9.9

8.9

9.9

8.9

9.9

8.5

8.9

7.5

Bananas, mascarpone, maple syrup M I X E D BE R R Y Strawberries, raspberries, blueberries, mascarpone

CHERRY COCO MATURE Cherry, mascarpone cheese, chocolate, coconut

SNACKS

served with sour cream & chilli sauce

C HI L L I W E D G E S

Marshmallow, mascarpone, hundreds and thousands

M I S H - M AS H - M E L L O W

BANANA

Dark belgian chocolate, mascarpone

Banana, peanut butter, Nutella, mascarpone

THE PRESLEY

Curried lentils, coriander, spinach with a pot of spiced yoghurt

THE DHAL DELIGHT

Roast pumpkin, sundried tomato, shaved zucchini, soy cheese, salsa verde

POP’S VEGE PATCHING (vegan)

served with sour cream & chilli sauce

SHOESTRING FRIES

BEER BATTERED ONION RINGS

Salmon, potato, broccoli, boiled egg, pesto

SALMONE VERDE

Orange, sweet potato, pinenuts, rocket, honey lemon dressing

S D A

Cous cous, tomato, onion, beans, mint, lemon, lime, sour cream Oven roasted saganaki cheese with rocket, olives, onion, sundried tomatoes, vinaigrette AGRUMI A RAZZO

COUS COUS MENTA

SAGANAKI

ALL SERVED WITH A SIDE OF PICKLES GLUTEN FREE BREAD AVAILABLE — EXTRA $1

Shaved ham, tomato, coq cheese

THAT’LL DO PIG

CHOCOLATE

Roasted shaved turkey, gorgonzola, cranberry sauce

THE BIRD IS THE WORD

Roasted silverside, sauerkraut, Swiss cheese, dijonnaise

THE L.C RUEBEN

Smoked Salmon, cream cheese, dill, capers

4 $

THE NEW YORKER

SUN ALL DAY

MON - THU 7 - 11 PM

Beef, caramelised onion, cheese sauce, roasted capsicum, BBQ sauce, mayonnaise

FRI & SAT 7 - 9 PM

MON - FRI 11:30 AM - 4 PM

THE CHAPEL CHEESE STEAK

• FOOD • SPECIALS

SAL

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OZPUBS

NEWCASTLE

salthouse.com.au The Woolshed 24 Shields Street, CBD thewoolshed.com.au

HOBART Bar Celona 23 Salamanca Sq, CBD barcelonahobart.com Raincheck Lounge 392 Elizabeth St, North Hobart rainchecklounge.com.au

Albion Hotel 72 Hannell St, Wickham thealbion.com.au Bar Petite 5 King St, CBD barpetite.com.au Burwood Inn Hotel 77 Berner Street, Merewether theburwood.com.au

Hotel Delany 134 Darby St, CBD hoteldelany.com

Royal Inn Hotel Waratah 61/69 Station St, Waratah truelocal.com.au

Kent Hotel 59-61 Beaumont St, Hamilton thekenthotel.com.au

Silo Restaurant and Lounge 18/1 Honeysuckle Dr, CBD silolounge.com.au

King Street Hotel 15 Steel St, Newcastle West kingstreethotel.com.au

Cambridge Hotel 789 Hunter St, CBD yourcambridge.com

Lass O’Gowrie 14 Railway St, Wickham lassogowriehotel.com.au

Cricketers Arms 61 Bruce St, Cooks Hill cricketersarmshotel.com.au

Mary Ellen Hotel 57 Railway St, Mereweather maryellenhotel.com.au

Shipwrights Arms 29 Trumpeter St, Battery Point shipwrightarms.com.au

Hamilton Hotel 442 Kingsford Smith Dve, Ham hamiltonhotel.com.au

Oriental Hotel 53 Bull St, Cooks Hill facebook.com/theorihotel

The Duke 192 Macquarie Street CBD theduke.com.au

Hamilton Station Hotel 2-6 Beaumont St, Islington hamiltonstation.com.au

Premier Hotel 1 Brunker Rd, Broadmeadow hotelpremier.com.au

Republic Bar & Cafe 299 Elizabeth St, North Hobart republicbar.com

Monkey around

Sunnyside Tavern 20 Broadmeadow Rd, Broadmeadow sunnysidetavern.com.au The Northern Star 112 Beaumont St, Hamilton northernstarhotel.com.au Wickham Park Hotel 61 Maitland Rd, Islington thewicko.com.au

BYRON BAY Beach Hotel Bay St beachhotel.com.au Byron Bay Brewery 1 Skinners Shoot Road byronbaybrewery.com.au Cheeky Monkey’s 115 Jonson St cheekymonkeys.com.au La La Land Level 1/6 Lawson St lalalandbyronbay.com.au

wollongongnightlife.com.au Harp Hotel 124 Corrimal Street

wollongongnightlife.com.au Ivory Nightclub 77 Crown Street

wollongongnightlife.com.au OneFiveOne 150 Keira Street

wollongongnightlife.com.au Questions Unit 5 123-125 Corrimal Street

wollongongnightlife.com.au

DARWIN Ducks Nuts 76 Mitchell St, CBD

ducksnuts.com.au Squires Tavern 3 Edmunds St, CBD

squirestavern.com.au Shenannigans

Treehouse on Belongil 25 Childe St treehouseonbelongil.com

The Deck Bar

Academy Club 15 Bunda St academyclub.com.au Cube Nightclub 33 Petrie Plaza cubenightclub.com.au ICBM Bar 50 Northbourne Ave icbmbar.com Mooseheads 105 London Circuit mooseheads.com.au PJ O’Reilly’s 52 Alinga St pjoreillys.com.au Transit Bar 7 Akuna St transitbar.com.au

WOLLONGONG Alibi 76 Crown Street wollongongnightlife.com.au

234 Keira Street

69 Mitchell St, CBD

CANBERRA

Byron’s backpacker-focused restaurant and nightclub, Cheeky Monkey’s has cheap meals, table top dancing, partying and competitions galore (oh, and plenty of booze). Friday nights are paint party night where Byron Bay’s Best Body Artists – with the latest airbrushes and top of the line body art gear – will turn you into a work of art. 115 Jonson St, Byron Bay cheekymonkeys.com.au

Grand Hotel

The Northern 35-43 Jonson St thenorthern.com.au

Woody’s Surf Shack 90-96 Jonson St woodysbyronbay.com

GO APE AT CHEEKY MONKEY’S

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shenannigans.com.au

22 Mitchell St, CBD

thedeckbar.com.au The Tap Bar 58 Mitchell St, CBD

thetap.com.au

ALICE SPRINGS Bojangles Saloon 80 Todd St

yourbars.com.au Chifley Alice Springs Resort 34 Stott Tce

chifleyhotels.com.au Firkin & Hound 21 Hartely St

yourbars.com.au Monte’s Lounge Corner of Todd St & Stott Tce

montes.net.au The Juicy Rump @ Lasseters 93 Barret Dr, Desert Springs

lasseters.com.au The Rock Bar

Castros 5 Victoria Street facebook.com/castros

78 Todd St

Glasshouse Nightclub 90 Crown Street facebook.com/ sucasawollongong

Todd Tavern

therockbar.com.au

1 Todd St

toddtavern.com.au

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AUCKLAND Albion Hotel 119 Hobson St albionhotel.co.nz Brew on Quay 102 Quay St brewonquay.co.nz Bluestone Room 9-11 Durham Lan thebluestoneroom.co.za Cassette 9 9 Vulcan Ln cassettenine.com Cavalier Tavern 68 College Hill thecavalier.co.nz Currach Irish Pub 78 Blackwell Dr currachirishpub.co.nz De Fontein 77 Tamaki Dr, Mission Bay defontein.co.nz Doolan Brothers 414 Khyber Pass Rd, Newmarket doolanbrothers.co.nz Father Ted’s 1 Wellesley St W fatherteds.co.nz Fort Street Union 16 Fort St fortstreetunion.co.nz Gables Speights Ale House 248 Jervois Rd, Herne Bay gablesspeightsalehouse.co.nz Galbraith’s Alehouse 2 Mt Eden Rd, Grafton alehouse.co.nz Garrison Public House 61/286 Mt Wellington Hwy, Mt Wellington South garrisonpub.co.nz La Zeppa Kitchen 33 Drake St, Freemans Bay lazeppa.co.nz The Lumsden 444/448 Khyber Pass Rd, Newmarket thelumsden.co.nz

BACK IN BLACK

Malt Bar 442 Richmond Rd maltbar.co.nz

Normanby Hotel 37 Normandy Rd, Mt Eden thenormanbyhotel.co.nz Parnell Bar & Grill 196 Parnell Rd, Parnell parnellbarandgrill.co.nz Queens Ferry Hotel 12 Vulcan Ln queensferryhotel.co.nz Shakespeare Brewery 61 Albert St shakespearehotel.co.nz Spitting Feathers 16 Wyndham St spittingfeathers.co.nz Sprig & Fern 2 Drake St, Freemans Bay sprigandferntaverns.co.nz

Tainui Tavern 33 Morrin Rd menumania.co.nz The Fox 85/87 Customs St W thefox.co.nz

The Welsh Dragon Bar 10/12 Cambridge Terrace, Mt Victoria welshdragonbar.co.nz

CHRISTCHURCH

The Zookeeper’s Son 715 Mt Albert Rd zookeepersson.co.nz

Bealey’s Speight’s Ale House 263 Bealey Ave bealeysalehouse.co.nz

Three Lamps 1-3 St Marys Rd, St Marys Bay threelamps.co.nz

Bailies Bar 1066 Colombo St, St Albans bailiesbar.co.nz

4.20 bar 373 Karangahape Rd 420.co.nz

Becks Southern Alehouse 155 Colombo St beckssouthernalehouse.co.nz

WELLINGTON Arbitrageur Wine Room 125 Featherston St arbitrageur.co.nz Bangalore Polo Club 63 Courtenay Pl, Te Aro bangalorepoloclub.co.nz Bodega 101 Ghuznee St bodega.co.nz

The Brewers Arms 177 Papanui Rd, Merivale thebrewersarms.co.nz Burgers & Beers Inc 355 Colombo St, Sydenham burgersandbeersinc.co.nz Calendar Girls 196 Hereford St calendargirls.co.nz Darkroom 336 St Asaph St darkroombar.co.nz

Four Kings Sports Bar 7-11 Dixon St fourkings.co.nz

Empire Hotel Lyttelton 9 London St, Lyttelton empirelyttelton.co.nz

Havana Coffee Works 163 Tory St, Te Aro havana..co.nz

Fox & Ferret Palms Palms Shopping Centre, 1 New Brighton Rd, Shirley foxpalms.co.nz

Hawthorn Lounge 82 Tory St, Te Aro hawthornlounge.co.nz J J Murphy & Co 119 Cuba St, Te Aro jjmurphy.co.nz Mac’s Brewbar 4 Taranaki St thebrewerybar.co.nz Matterhorn 106 Cuba St, Te Aro matterhorn.co.nz MIghty Mighty 104 Cuba St, Te Aro mightymighty.co.nz Molly Malones 134 Courtenay Pl, Te Aro mollymalones.co.nz San Francisco Bath House 171 Cuba St, Te Aro sfbh.co.nz Southern Cross Garden Bar 39 Abel Smith St, Te Aro thecross.co.nz Sprig & Fern 342 Tinakori Rd sprigandferntaverns.co.nz

Garden Hotel Bar 110 Marshland Rd, Shirley

gardenhotel.co.nz Pegasus Arms 14 Oxford Terrace pegasus-arms.com Tequila Mockingbird 98 Victoria St tequilamockingbird.co.nz The Brewery 3 Garlands Rd, Woolston casselsbrewery.co.nz The Twisted Hop Pub 616 Ferry Rd thetwistedhop.co.nz Monteiths Brewery Bar 53 Merrin St mbbmerrinst.co.nz No. 4 Bar 4 Mansfield Ave, St Albans no4bar.co.nz

HAMILTON Axces Bar 28 Alexandra St yellow.co.nz

Foundation Bar Maahanga Dr, Te Awa foundationbar.co.nz The Bank Bar & Brasserie Cnr Victoria St & Hood St thebank.co.nz The Cook 7 Cook St, Hamilton East thecook.net.nz Speights Ale House 30 Liverpool St speights-hamilton.co.nz Wonder Horse 236 Victoria St wonderhorse.co.nz

WHANGAREI Dickens Inn 71 Cameron St, Vinetown dickensinn.co.nz Killer Prawn 26-28 Bank St killerprawn.co.nz McCool’s 14 Rust Ave mccools.co.nz pub McMorrisseys Irish Pub 7 Vine St, Vinetown mcmorrisseys.co.nz Parua Bay Tavern 1034 Whangarei Heads Rd, Parua Bay paruabaytavern.co.nz Split Bar Rathbone St splitrestaurant.co.nz s The Old Stone Butter Factory 8 Butter Factory Lane butterfactory.co.nz

DUNEDIN Angus Restaurant & Bar 7 St Andrew St angusdunedin.co.nz Alibi Bar 1 Princes St alibibar.co.nz Captain Cook Tavern 354 Great King St, N Dunedin thecaptaincook.co.nz Luna Bar 314 Highgate Roslyn lunaroslyn.co.nz Manny’s Level 1/91 St Andrew St mannysbar.co.nz Stilettos Revue Bar 319 Princes St stilettos.co.nz

The Apartment 25 Allen St, Te Aro theapartment.co.nz

Bar 101 118 Victoria St bar101.co.nz

The Establishment Cnr of Courtenay Pl and Blair St theestablishment.co.nz

Cock & Bull 1 Cnr Maui & Church St, Pukete cockandbull.co.nz

The Green Man 25 Victoria St thegreenmanpub.co.nz

CBD Corner Pub 26 Hood St cbdpub.co.nz

Lonestar Restaurant & Bar 60 The Esplanade, Inner Kaiti lonestar.co.nz

The Malt House 48 Courtenay Pl, Te Aro themalthouse.co.nz

Easy Tiger Cocktail Bar 186 Victoria St easytigerbar.co.nz

Soho 2 Crawford Rd, Inner Kaiti sohobar.co.nz

GISBORNE Aladdin Bar/First Light Aikido 63 Peel St firstlighttaikido.net

The Poverty Bay Club 57/65 Customhouse St thepovertybayclub.co.nz The Jolly Stockman 3 Saleyards Rd yellow.co.nz Verve Cafe & Bar 121 Gladstone Rd facebook.com

NAPIER Guffle Bar 29A Hastings St, Napier South guffle.co.nz The Bank Sports Lounge 106 Hastings St facebook.com The Dutch at The Bluewater 10 W Quay, Ahuriri thedutch.co.nz The Gintrap Restaurant & Bar 64 W Quay, Ahuriri gintrap.co.nz The Rose Irish Pub 64 Hastings St masonic.co.nz The Thirsty Whale 62 W Quay, Ahuriri thethirstywhale.co.nz

PLYMOUTH Crowded House Bar 93-99 Devon St E crowdedhouse.co.nz Gusto Restaurant, Cafe & Bar Ocean View Parade gustotaranaki.conz Peggy Gordon’s Celtic Bar 58 Egmont St peggygordons.com The Mayfair 69 Devon St W themayfair.co.nz West Bar & Cafe 41 Tukapa St, Westown westbar.co.nz

TAURANGA Imbibe Bar & Restaurant 19 Girven Rd facebook.com Inbargo Bar & Bistro 4 Palmer Pl, Te Puke inbargobarandbistro.co.nz Major Toms Bar 297 Maunganui Rd, Mt Maunganui majortomsbar.com

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GIGLISTINGS

ANDY PHILLIPS AND THE CADILLAC WALK Saturday October 10 head on over to the Lucky Coq where Melbourne’s own Andy Phillips fronts the band ‘Cadillac Walk’, showcasing his striking vocals and electric guitar work. This power trio perform everything from mellow bourbon soaked blues numbers to high energy and hard driving classic rock n’ roll.

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Luke Bolland $56 The Factory Theatre, Marrickville premier.ticketek.com.au Andy Phillips and the Cadillac Walk Free Lucky Coq, Melbourne eventfinda.com.au Banjo-B-Cue $25 The Mercat, Melbourne themercat.com Leo Sayer $69 Darwin Entertainment Centre yourcentre.com.au

Photo by Derek James Bainbridge and courtesy of Beats Cartel

THU OCT 15 The Knox $55 Brass Monkey, Cronulla, NSW brassmonkey.com.au

FRI OCT 16 Bohemian Rhapsody $70+ Dee Why RSL, Dee Why, NSW songkick.com In Hearts Wake $34.50 Entrance Leagues Club, Gosford, NSW songkick.com

TUE SEP 23 Motion City Soundtrack $42.10 - $148 Manning Bar, Sydney manningbar.com

tickets.mso.com.au Animalastic - Spiegel Kids $24.75 - $34.50 Cairns Esplanade, 4870 ticketing.ticketlink.com.au

SAT SEP 27

WED SEP 24 The Preachers $34.50 The Creases, Entrance League Club, Gosford songkick.com/concerts/24101819preatures-at-entrance-leagues-club

THU SEP 25 King Parrot $71 Bald Faced Stag Hotel, Leichhardt, Sydney songkick.com

FRI SEP 26

FRI OCT 2 Tyler, The Creator $72 Big Top, Luna Park, Sydney ticketmaster.com.au

Alex Lloyd $28 Brass Monkey, Cronulla, NSW brassmonkey.com.au

A Place to Bury Strangers $37.80 - $48 Manning Bar, Sydney manningbar.com

David Ryan Harris $28 Venue 505, Surry Hills, Sydney songkick.com

The Getaway Plan $23.20 Studio Six, Sutherland, NSW tickets.oztix.com.au

SUN SEP 28 Imagine Dragons $142.99 - $205.56 Qantus Credit Union Arena, Sydney viagogo.com/au

Megan Washington $28 Brass Monkey, Cronulla NSW brassmonkey.com.au

Xavier Rudd & The United Nations $60 Enmore Theatre, Newtown enmoretheatre.com.au

Phil Jamieson $38 - $72 Cafe del Mare, Darling Harbour, Sydney cafedelmar.com.au

Anthony B $54 - $94 House of Shem, Max Watt’s Sydney songkick.com

An Evening with Renee Fleming $70 - $163 The Arts Centre, Melbourne

Dub FX $45 Manning Bar, Sydney

manningbar.com

SAT OCT 3 James Taylor $20 Brass Monkey, Cronulla, NSW brassmonkey.com.au The Story so Far $45.84 Metro Theatre, Sydney metrotheatre.com.au Greg Poppleton $73 Cronulla Rsl, Cronulla premier.ticketek.com.au Make like a Tree Oz Tour Free Cherry Bar, Melbourne eventfinda.com.au/2015/makelike-tree-oz-tour/melbourne

SUN OCT 4

SAT OCT 17

Death Dealer $36 - $145 Manning Bar, Sydney manningbar.com

Circa Survive $49.50 Metro Theatre, Sydney viagogo.com/au

Stephen Cummings and Shane O’mara $67 Cafe Deus, camperdown, NSW deuscafe.con.au

Conrad Sewell $18 Newtown Social Club, NSW newtonsocialclub.com

THU OCT 8 Safia, Boo Seeka $20 + booking fee The Factory Theatre, Marrickville, NSW ticketmaster.com.au

FRI OCT 9 Elvis to the Max USA $79 Her Majesty’s Theatre premier.ticketek.com.au Otis Redding Birthday Concert $99+ Margaret Court Arena, Melbourne premier.ticketek.com.au

SAT OCT 10 Toni Braxton $70+ Sydney Opera House, Sydney premier.ticketek.com.au

Bjorn Again $49.50 - $69.50 State Theatre, Sydney ticketmaster.com.au Sumeru Lord Sword & Summonus Free Blackwire Records, Annandale, NSW blackwirerecords.com Meri Amber $25 Manly Library, Manly, NSW bandsintown.com

SAT OCT 18 Above & Beyond $112.09 Allphones Arena, Sydney premier.ticketek.com.au Mayer Hawthorne & Jake One $10 Jam Gallery, Sydney jamgallery.com.au

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Sujet Saenkham

Sujet hopes that readers of his first cook book Spice I Am will enjoy sharing his treasured family recipes and that they will inspire his readers to cook delicious Thai food at home. INTERVIEW James Clark

which was a quick in and out BYO diner. In 2010 we opened House Thai in Surry Hills, specialising in Issan-style dishes, which are very lean as they don’t include coconut milk, and feature the distinct favour of fermented fish sauce. The food was hot, the atmosphere laid back and the media loved it. We then opened Spice I Am Balmain. The restaurant has a fresh and young vibe and a smart bar with the same delicious authentic Thai cuisine that we offer in our other venues. Our most recent restaurant is the Surry Hills Eating House, which draws on influences from southern Thailand.

How did opening a restaurant first come about? Opening a food business was my partner Padet Nagsalab’s idea. He liked my cooking and had the necessary financial skills to set up a business. In April 2004 we opened the first Spice I Am restaurant in Surry Hills, with eight tables and eighteen chairs. We decided not to tone down, modify or substitute ingredients to suit local tastes, but to offer authentic Thai food cooked in the traditional way. We produced our own curry pastes and used the correct hot chillies to maintain the true flavour. The commitment to authenticity proved incredibly popular – the restaurant received rave reviews and is still operating as successfully as ever today. How has Spice I Am developed since 2004? In 2008, we opened a second Spice I Am in Darlinghurst. We decided to open a more sophisticated restaurant with the emphasis on leisure dining in an elegant space, with an upscale cocktail bar and private room. In many ways an opposite to our place in Surry Hills,

Where do you source ingredients from? Most of the Thai vegetables and herbs we use in the restaurants are available locally in the warmer months, and from Darwin or far-north Queensland during winter. The herbs must be fresh, to provide the full flavour, aroma and pungency in the nose as you eat them. I also have a little farm in the Southern Highlands of NSW where we grow most of our greens. What do you think of the Thai food scene in the UK? Thai food in London is enjoyable, but a little bland and too sweet for my tastebuds. Restaurant chefs don’t have access to the same fresh regional produce that is available in Australia. We are lucky enough to have our own farm where we grow fresh fruit and herbs including large quantities of Kaffir lime, Thai pumpkin, Asian corn and so much more. What persuaded you to write the Spice I Am cookbook? I am lucky enough to be able to fulfil another one of my dreams, to write my my own cookbook. Here, I share the recipes that I learnt from my family and those I discovered when living with my in-laws in Phuket. I’m also inspired by the different ingredients and

techniques from the regions across Thailand, where the local climate and seasonal availability of ingredients strongly influences the food. In the north, for example, little or no coconut milk or cream is used, but animal fat and pork meat feature extensively due to Chinese influence. Fresh herbs and spices are another common feature, thanks to the proximity to Laos and Vietnam. In the north-east, the cuisine is leaner, and dill and lemon basil star in many dishes. In central Thailand, one can find dishes from all areas of Thailand, so there is a much wider selection. What is your favourite recipe? The homemade curry paste is favourite as it’s the key ingredient in so many authentic Thai dishes. Made with red chillies and originating from central Thailand, this is probably the most widely known Thai curry in Australia. Red curry paste also forms the base for other Thai dishes like thot man pla (fish cakes) and traditional coconut curries. Any handy tips? There are two types of Thai curry, coconut based curries are made by cooking curry paste with fresh coconut cream or vegetable oil until you have a rich aroma, so all the paste ingredients are well cooked before adding the meat. The meat is then cooked until it has absorbed the flavour of the paste. This is the traditional way to make a Thai curry, passed down over generations, and what I pass on in the ccokbook. Water based curries use water or stock instead of coconut and are therefore much lighter, but also spicier, with a sweet and sour note. When seasoning add the fish sauce, then taste to see if you need to add any sugar. Vegetables always add wonderful texture to the dish.

For more information visit spiceiam.com

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Wet and wild

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WILDSWIMMING The best-selling Wild Swimming series travels to Australia to explore the legendry water holes around Sydney, revealing secret pool, lagoons and oases. So what is wild swimming? The simple pleasure of swimming outdoors in rivers, lakes and oceans. It’s a fantastic way to explore and discover your local area, to combat stress and to reconnect to the wild. Taking the plunge releases natural feel-good chemicals called ‘endorphins,’ which is what makes it addictive. Regular dipping strengthens the immune system and increase mood and well-being. Due to its unique geography, Sydney has the best wild swimming in Australia, and some say even the world. Sydney is surrounded by beautiful national parks and wilderness. Dramatic canyons and serene rives flow through pristine bush to meet a coastline of white sand and tidal pools. This book will guide you to the best that Sydney has to offer while also celebrating the sheer joy of wild swimming. It will ignite your sense of wonder, exploration and fun, and it will embolden you to get out there and jump in! Sally Tertini spent much of her childhood exploring the bay that was her backyard in suburban Sydney. Steve Pollard grew up on a farm amongst the rolling hills of Dartmoor, UK. When they met in Sydney every spare moment was spent discovering wonderful new places to swim. After five years of research they have produced this beautiful guide book.

Resolute Beach The water here is so fantastically clear and appealing that you’ll want to fling yourself into its green sparkling depths mid-way down the many steps that lead to it! Stowed away inside the entrance to Pittwater and shut in by steep bush, the west-facing beach is lapped apathetically by calm water. This is a little paradise, but arrive early if you want it to yourself! Follow West Head Rd, Ku-ring-gai Chase National Park (vehicle entry fees apply), for 12.6km, then park in signed car park on right. Take the track signed Resolute Beach. After 400m this passes Aboriginal engravings. After 950m turn left at fork. After 1.95km turn left off fire trail down steps to beach. After 2.1km with the beach in sight, turn left. Alternatively it’s a 30-min walk north from ferry at Mackeral Beach. ››

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Swan Lake Swan Lake is a tranquil and truly magical spot. There really are swans here, and it’s completely overlooked by tourists! The lake is backed by bush and a thin ribbon of beach that tapers gradually into the water. It’s decorously calm, and as it’s brackish you’re guaranteed no sharks. In the full light of day the water is an intense lime colour, and as you dive under you’re suddenly jolted into the world of technicolour. Walk-in: 1 min, 20m, easy. Via end of partly unsealed Medlyn Ave, Sussex Inlet. -35.1759, 150.5685

Bob Turners

Bob Turners Track

Bob Turner’s Track is by far the easiest way down into the pristine and rugged Colo Wilderness. This sleepy bend on the Colo River is bounded by wide sandbanks, bleached white by the sun, with pockets of shady casuarinas. There’s also the option of exploring smaller pools up and downriver. From the service station at Colo Heights, continue north for 700m, then turn left, signed Bob Turners Fire Trail. Continue for another 2.7km to car park (not at the trail head). Take the steps signed Bob Turners Walking Track. This well-made track descends moderately, crossing several small gullies, and leads directly to the river. -33.3739, 150.6657

Giles Baths

Here you can rock-hop and search for scuttling crabs, leap from boulders into the turquoise water, spy darting cuttlefish as you swim, or brave the cave as surging waves crash over and into the pool. On calm days the water is sparkling and every crevice on the rock floor is visible. When a swell is pumping, it takes all your energy just to resist being swept back towards the shore! Walk-in: 5 mins, 200m, easy-moderate. From end of Baden St, Coogee, walk 2 o’clock across reserve and descend steps on the beach side of headland. -33.9201, 151.2605

South West Arm Pool There’s nowhere like this in all of Sydney: it’s a picturesque setting, with thickset, pink angophoras spilling over the surrounding rocks. This remarkable pool is also well enough off the beaten track that as long as you don’t mind drying off next to a prehistoric- looking water monitor, you’re likely to have it to yourself. Follow Warumbal Rd, Royal National Park (vehicle entry fees apply) 400m from junction with Sir Bertram Stevens Dr and park on left. Take track 40m back on opposite side of road, signed Winifred Falls Fire Trail. This starts off flat, but then descends steeply. After 1.4km arrive at T-junction. Turn left. After 30m more you arrive beside Winifred Falls. Continue downstream along path adjacent to creek for another 300m to pool. -34.0893, 151.0785

South West Arm 20

Should you be so taken with wild swimming that, on your return home, you find yourself with a yearning to get wild and wet then read on as we look at some UK watering holes that will satisfy your soul. Although the water temperature may be a tad lower than youhave been used to!

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Kelmscott, River Thames, Oxfordshire Above Oxford the Thames valley winds through some of the most undeveloped countryside in southern England. Here you will find kingfishers and otters, and mile-upon-mile of open fields and meadow. This is a lovely place for a secret swim from the reedy banks, and only a mile upstream is the fun pool at Buscot, where you will find several rope swings. Three miles east of Lechlade. There is parking in the field near Plough Inn (GL7 3HG, 01367 253 543). Follow the track to, and then beyond, Kelmscott Manor, to the river.

Lacock Abbey, Avon, Wiltshire In Lacock village you will find a little known meadow with a river beach, with a view back to the glorious abbey. Further along is a leaning tree with rungs up its trunk helping you to climb up and over the river to jump down into the pool below. Check the depth first! From main National Trust car park turn right and continue 500m on the lane to find a footpath on the left, between the two bridges. 51.4146, -2.1150

Kelmscott

Welford-on-Avon, Warwickshire Avon actually means ‘river’ in old English, so don’t confuse the Warwickshire Avon with those in Hampshire, Somerset or Devon. A line of thatched cottages leads down to a riverside path, with a weir and lush green banks upstream. From here you can follow a river path all the way to Shakespeare’s Stratford and take your pick of places to dip. 4 miles W of Stratford. From the Bell Inn (CV37 8EB, 01789 750353) pass the church and follow Boat Lane.

Crummock water, Lake District Crummock water is the perfect wild swimmers lake: motorised boats are forbidden and it’s well away from the tourist crowds. For a quick dip, the silvery beaches below Wood House, at the south of the lake, are perfect. For a longer expedition, follow the river path from Buttermere village, head to the mighty waterfall of Scale Force, and continue along the western lake shore, swimming wherever you please – though Low Ling Crag is my favourite place. Set off from the behind the hotel and car park in tiny Buttermere and follow the footpath alongside the campsite.

Lacock Abbey

Achmelvich, Lochinver, Scotland

Photos: iStock, Sally Terini and Daniel Start

At Achmelvich the shell white tropical sand is brought in drifts by the Gulf Stream ocean currents. The water here is a perfect blue, and even on the dullest days the sand manages to glow beneath the waves. For absolute seclusion bear right and continue on foot for 20 minutes, where you will find several more sandy coves. Four miles from Lochinver and signed off the B869. Turn left and left again to find parking and the campsite (IV27 4JB). Sally Tertini is the author of Wild Swimming Sydney Australia: 250 Best Rock Pools, Beaches, Rivers and Waterholes (Daniel Start is author of Wild Swimming, Hidden Beaches and the Wild Guide series. (www. WildThingsPublishing.com)

Crummock Water

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TRAVEL

Photos: Courtesy of Crocosaurus Cove

NEWS | TOP 5 | OZ TRIP | TOP 10 | LISTINGS

CROCOSAURUS COVE Crocosaurus Cove, located in the heart of Darwin city, allows visitors a unique, up close and personal view of Australia’s iconic Saltwater Crocodiles, and whilst you aren’t exactly dicing with death, as you are safely ensconced in a protective glass tube, it is epically exhilarating!

INSIDE

GREAT BARRIER REEF /28

DELECTABLE DARWIN /32

EAST COAST TRIP /36

Who doesn’t add the Great Barrier reef to their bucket list? Check out our Top Five reef experiences so if you don’t miss a trick!

Darwin’s a great base from which to explore Kakadu and Litchfield National Parks, but it’s also a great little city in its own rights.

If you only have time for one side of the pie, devour the east coast of Oz. It’s a trail full of adventure and beauty.

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GREAT BARRIER REEF

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Nothing says Great Barrier Reef like a play with Wally - a resident Maori Wrasse!

The Great Barrier Reef is one of the greatest natural wonders of the world and is, quite simply, an absolute must visit destination while in Australia. Diving the reef The world’s largest coral reef system, it’s made up of 900 islands stretching over an area of around 344,400sq km, and diving into this under-water world is unbeatable. The vibrant coral comes in every colour and shade of a Dulux swatch book, while friendly shoals of fish dart about or lazy loners weave their way through the coral, dipping down for a toke or two on some shrimp or plankton. Spot the occasional bobbing turtle, sweeping stingray or gliding reef shark and you will see the true wonder of these majestic creatures that call this 24

aquatic paradise home. Deep Sea Divers Den has been operating since 1974, making it the longest established company in Cairns. The highly regarded Deep Sea Divers Den has the highest rating achievable and is a 5*PADI Career Development Centre and a 5* PADI Dive Centre. To date more than 100,000 people have completed their open water certification with the company. Impressive by any stretch. Try an over-nighter with Deep Sea Divers Den, sleep aboard the big OceanQuest boat and enjoy a number of dives from some of its 17 exclusive moorings at Norman, Saxon and Hastings reefs. On offer snorkeling, introductory diving and certified diving expeditions so that everyone at all levels can have a go. The liveboard vessel OceanQuest has

Photos: Deep Divers Den

undergone a $500,000 refurbishment, including a brand new deck and all new dive equipment. The spacious accommodation rooms have ensuites and televisions, offering a quality yet affordable stay, it is also home to Cairns only local shark night-dive. The company also operates the EXCLUSIVE Fluoro diving experience that uses specialist torches and mask filters to create incredible bio-fluorescent underwater landscapes. For the more adventurous diver, there’s the extended dive and snorkel expeditions to the Cod Hole and Ribbon Reefs on board the TAKA Ribbon Reef Explorer. During months June - August theirs the opportunity to swim with Minke Whales on migration. diversden.com.au

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Photos: Passions of Paradise, Ocean Rafting, Whitsunday Scenic Flights, Ocean Safari Reef Experience

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SAIL WITH PASSIONS OF PARADISE

OCEAN RAFTING

For a day tour, we recommend Passions of Paradise for a slice of luxury. Set sail on the 25m catamaran to Paradise Reef, which is exclusive to Passions of Paradise so you will dodge the crowds and be able to say hello in person to Wally, the resident Maori wrasse. Passions also moors up at Michaelmas Cay, which is a world famous bird sanctuary and has sandy beaches, which give way to waters rich in giant trevally, small black tip reef sharks, bat fish and hundreds of species of colourful reef fish. passions.com.au

If you prefer to stay above water and relatively dry, but you still want the feel of the fresh ocean air in your hair, then sea rafting is a good option. With Ocean Rafting youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll speed around the stunning Whitsundays, stopping off for talks about the flora and fauna. It is the only tour operator to have direct access to the stunning and iconic Hill Inlet beach and special snorkel sites at Hook Island and Border Island.

oceanrafting.com.au

PLANES RIDES OVER THE REEF

OCEAN SAFARI

GSL Aviation is your best value fixed wing operator in Airlie Beach that offer a range of Whitsunday scenic transfer and charter flights. GSL operate seven days a week and are flexible based on booking availability and best viewing times. Take the Island Explorer for a scenic tour of the Whitsunday Islands, the Reef and Island flight or one of the flight and cruise packages that combine the best of the island and reef tours. Also available are flights to Whitehaven beach and Hamilton Island.

Ocean Safari offers an exhilarating ride to snorkel the pristine untouched Great Barrier Reef off the Daintree Coast. The half day Great Barrier Reef tour visits two different snorkel destinations, each with an extraordinary array of marine life and coral species. After a fast ride, you are ready to snorkel two fabulous locations at Mackay and Undine Reefs. On most days, you can snorkel alongside sea turtles, which are found swimming over reefs full of colourful coral, along with myriads of fish, eagle rays, giant clams and starfish.

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F O R BAC K PAC K E R S

Great Barrier Reef Adventures

Truly one of the great wonders of the natural world and a “must-see” for any visitor to the region. Our pontoons at the outer reef include an underwater viewing chamber, snorkelling, reef experts, diving and much more. Includes an all you can eat buffet lunch departs Airlie Beach from $169pp*

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AIRLIE BEACH

REEF & BEACH Whitehaven Beach Camira Sailing Adventure

Swim at one of the best beaches in the world, sailing on one of the world’s fastest commercial catamarans. BBQ lunch and all refreshments included. An all inclusive day departs Airlie Beach from $150pp*

Reef & Beach Packages

A choice of sailing to Whitehaven Beach and Island experiences, Great Barrier Reef Adventures with backpacker accommodation and Reefsleep under the stars. Combos start from $399pp* (3 days / 3 nights stay Airlie Beach)

* Backpacker price with valid bona fide Backpacker Card, terms & conditions apply. See our website for full details.

For info and bookings see your Travel Centre or contact us AW5760

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Darwin for your delectation

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During Darwin’s dry season the town comes to life with a buzzing market, packed bars and an arty cinema – if you can stand the heat says Colin Delaney I was hosting my own wet T-shirt competition. I was hot, but by no means sexy – sweating all over. My collar was stretched, stained and more toxic than Kakadu’s Jabiluka Uranium Mine. Oh, and my shorts. I had been wearing them for five days straight, hiking through Kakadu. I was still carrying half the park under my nails. Put it this way, I was looking pretty ‘hobosexual’. Relief came as I entered my hostel room, my face caressed by a cool breeze. I was getting double-teamed by the airconditioner and the fan. Dropping my bag on the floor I collapsed on the bed, exhausted, granted with a damsel-like gasp for melodrama, but damn it was hot. In the oppressive heat of Darwin, my plan for the following day was to visit all the cool places, quite literally. The next morning, stepping through the sliding doors, a wall of heat hit me like a freight train, instantly knocking the life from me – not a good start. My first stop on the air-conditioner tour was the free Art Gallery and Museum of Northern Territory – a perfect introduction to the Northern Territory and Darwin’s past. I learnt about Christmas Eve in 1974 when Cyclone Tracy ripped through the Top End. I got a feel for the Norther Territory’s natural food chain, from snakes, marsupials, sharks, crocs and birds of prey. Left to our own devices, humans are somewhere in the middle. The most feared of all is the saltwater crocodile. Stare into the eyes of the most infamous of the salties, Sweetheart. He terrorised local fishermen in a river nearby Darwin for years before a relocation went wrong. You’ll also learn about the important role Australia and specifically Darwin played in WWII.There were more bombs dropped on this outpost than Pearl Harbour. In the art gallery section you’ll find mesmerisingly meticulous works of art by indigenous artists like Rover Thomas, prints from Andy Warhol and other travelling exhibitions. Escape the sun and learn more about Darwin’s role in the war at the WWII Storage Tunnel Tours. Running from the

Wharf Precinct

Getting around Darwin

Darwin from the air

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OZTRIP

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Mindi Beach madness

wharf, under the city, tunnels were constructed to protect Darwin’s oil supplies. The war finished before they were put into action and now are used as a tourist attraction. Photographs from this period feature wartime activity in the Top End – quite the history lesson.

Lucky bet I thought to myself, where else is air-conditioned? The casino, of course. Money is always tight when you’re a backpacker so why not try to win some cold hard cash and drop a cool hundred at the blackjack table at Skycity Casino? Actually I just dropped a tenner but played it like Dustin Hoffman in Rainman. That was before I got over- zealous, doubled down and lost it all like Vince Vaughn in Swingers. While it isn’t the most culturally enriching tourist attraction, a trip there could have you winning big for a tour to the Kimberley. If you don’t gamble, it looks over the harbour so it’s a good place to down a few cheap cocktails and watch the tide run out.

A refreshing dip Don’t be fooled, you can still beat the heat in Darwin and spend your sunny days outside. Unfortunately, due to box jelly fish, crocs and fish hooks, it can be dangerous swimming in the ocean, so Darwinians got together and created the awesome redeveloped Wharf Precinct. There you can jump in the pool, with wave machine, take a jet boat ride and then gobble down some cheap fish and chips. If you do need to get on the open waters with the wind in your hair, there are a number of sailing cruises you can take in Port Darwin and the Arafura Sea. There are options for every budget. Spend a couple of hours in the botanic gardens wandering around the rainforest and monsoon forest gardens. With over 192 types of palms and an array of tropical plants, you’ll find shade under a leaf big enough to cover you and your roomies.

Market mayhem At sunset on a Thursday or a Sunday there is only one place to be – the Mindil Beach Sunset Markets. Here you’ll find a huge range of stalls selling everything from excellent Asian dishes to Aboriginal art, local crafts and about a thousand different covers for your phone or iPad. There are also some pretty talented street performers, from circus folk to didgeridoo and percussion shows that redefine the term drum ‘n’ bass. Mindil Beach can attract around 5,000 pedestrians meandering between palms on a nice night, which it always seems to be up there. I took in the million colours of dusk, ate chilli prawns on a stick, and figured I’d take an eye out if I tried the whip cracking show, so I watched the balancing monk guy instead.

Date night movie As the Dry Season rolls around, the skies are reliably clear. Darwin is the perfect place for an outdoor cinema. The Deckchair Cinema shows all sorts, especially arthouse films that you missed two months ago at the normal cinema because they only lasted a week. It’s a great setting for a date. Stretch out under the stars with your favourite friend and try your luck with the infamous popcorn/cockporn trick – you know the one.

Nighttime shenanigans If that worked, and things are heating up, head to the pub. Just because the sun went down doesn’t mean the thermostat did. An evening in Darwin means things are just heating up, so to speak. All the pubs are air- conditioned or boast large open air decks. Some clubs are so serious about keeping their patrons cool they’ll spray hot girls’ chest areas with water pistols to cool them down. Of course, this has the opposite effect on the men. ››

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Pubs like Shenannigans, Deck Bar, and Tap Bar are all good places to start. But try as I might it was impossible to avoid a place that wasn’t playing “Summer of 69” and some Proclaimers crap, so I opted for the nearest watering hole. After a few schooners you’ll no doubt end up at Monsoons: it’s a wall-to-wall backpacker-fest. Expect more cheesy music, games and competitions, dancing galore and cheap drinks. At the end of the day I stumbled back to the hostel feeling I had accomplished my mission. I had seen the sights of Darwin, I had consumed a lot of liquids and felt really cool. In short, I had thoroughly beaten the heat. With nothing left to do, tomorrow I would sit by the hostel pool and quietly perspire.

Further afield It’s pretty easy to book a day trip to the national parks of Kakadu and Litchfield from Darwin. So if you’ve got some time you could do worse than hop on board a bus with a group of randoms for some fine Australian scenery appreciation. Most tours will include a cruise along the famous Yellow Waters, and if you’re lucky you might catch some crocs that don’t look dead. Nourlangie Rock will impress you with its ancient Aboriginal rock art and a few snaps will convince your mum you did more than hit up the pubs. Birds, bees, dazzling blue skies and waterfalls will all make you breathe words like “Oh wow, I fucking love Australia”, but in Kakadu slather on the mozzie repellent unless you want legs that resemble two pepperoni pizzas. Adventure Tours do a three day tour out of Darwin where you can explore Kakadu and Litchfield National Parks. Swim beneath waterfalls, search for crocs and admire ancient aboriginal culture and rock art. Stop in at the Warradjan Aboriginal Cultural Centre to learn about local Indigenous culture and of course curl up with your new friends as you camp under the stars. See adventuretours.com.au to book.

Outdoor cinema

Kakadu watering holes

BEER CAN REGATTA

Photos: iStock, Tourism NT and Tourism Top End

››

Depending on who you talk to, or believe, Darwinites are the heaviest drinkers in Australia. This comes in handy in a city that hosts the utterly insane annual Beer Can Regatta (July), in which participants take to the seas in boats made from empty beer cans. The regatta is as Territorian as you can get, but it attracts people from around the world. It originally started following Cyclone Tracy in 1974; the tradesmen employed to rebuild the town drank a shitload of beer due to the tropical climate (any excuse) and many-an empty can was strewn across the street. The regatta was started as a means to get rid of the rubbish. Resourceful. These days it raises funds for local charities. Now that’s worth drinking to. beercanregatta.org.au

Beer Can Regatta

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Q&A Madeleine “Madi” Bentvelzen is one of Croc Cove's resident photogaphers. We had a quick chat about what it's like working with crocs and living in Darwin.

Q Q

CAGE OF DEATH

The damage & the details: The Cage of Death at Darwin’s Crocosaurus Cove crocosauruscove.com, costs from $165 per person.

How long have you been doing the job and how did you get into it? I was new to Darwin and just went in and asked if there was any work. I had a little photography experience but in the four months I’ve been working at Croc Cove I’ve learnt so much more. I guess it's like with anything though, the more you do it, the better you get at it. It's a great job because as I said, I get paid to do something I really enjoy and at the same time I get to develop my skills at that hobby, which is photography. In particular crocodiles.

Any scary experiences on the job? My boss is far more scary than any croc. In all seriousness, though, the whole thing is very professionally and safely done.

What is the most common misconception that people have about crocodiles? I mainly work with the baby crocs and a lot of people assume that they won’t hurt you. We have a band around their mouths when we are handling them because they will bite you! Believe me, they will definitely bite you if you let them.

Q Q

Any advice for people looking to work at Crocosaurus Cove? It is a fun, unique place to work. It’s all about a good attitude and being a team player. Darwin too is such a lovely, relaxed placed to live and work. Darwin has a really great vibe, it's a really easy city to live in. Plus it's really quite close to some of the most beautify natural landscape to be found anywhere in Australia. My hubby and I like to cruise our motorbikes out to Lichtfield.

Photos: Crocosaurus Cove

Houdini swims past, just inches from my face, and looks me straight in the eye. The piercing, almost dismissive, glance is clear. His teeth practically sparkle. I can almost hear him thinking: “I want to eat you.” In case you’re confused, I’m not suffering a cannibalistic vision of the famous (and dead) escapologist. Not quite at least. I’m treading water in the Cage of Death, one of Darwin’s most nerve-jangling adrenalin thrills. The Houdini I’m sharing the water with happens to be a giant saltwater crocodile, who would love nothing more than for me to try and escape the floating plastic box that currently separates us. Getting in the water with the world’s biggest reptiles had seemed a good idea... until the cage door swung open and it was time for me to get in, that is. It was hard not to suddenly feel very, very vulnerable as, dressed only in our swimmers, we looked down the ladder. Being the gentleman of course, I let my girlfriend descend first. And so, we got lowered into the water, like lumps of bait towards a master magician man-eater, and started feeling a little nervous. Gradually we’re submerged into the world of the salty until we’re waist deep in water, Houdini’s water. There’s no sudden rush, no snap of teeth or crash of hungry power – judging by the scratches, these crocs have clearly tried that before and learnt the lesson. But suddenly, Houdini is on the move. He effortlessly cruises towards us. For such a massive animal, it’s incredible how gracefully he moves. He hovers, his huge head just inches from mine with only the plastic and a bit of water between us. There’s no doubt that without the plastic he’d be ripping me to shreds in a second. And would absolutely love it. But after staring us out for a while, he carries on past and is gone, leaving us buzzing from the encounter.

What would you say is the best part about your job working as a photographer at Croc Cove? Working in a great team environment where I get to work with lots of different people, reptiles and take photos. All things I love. A lot of people find it really strange but I actually kind of like the crocodiles. Which isn't to say that I'd want to go swimming with a couple of big salties. They can be quite brutal killers but they are also quite beautiful in their own way, they deserve to be respected more than feared.

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EAST COAST

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Hitting the east coast of Australia is quintessential to your backpacking adventure in Oz. If you don’t have a lot of time while you’re here, we recommend hitting these top 10 spots, which are part of the classic tried-andtested journey; kind of like the yellow brick road for travellers. Tour groups such as Contiki (contiki. com) offer a whole host of east coast adventures (see box out on the next page for some of its top tours to try). They cram lots in, planning everything for you and providing transport so you don’t have to waste precious time studying guides or maps. You’re going to make a lot of new friends on your adventure, and these are the relationships that last a lifetime, because nothing says friendship like watching out for snakes while your new mate takes a dump in the bush. Or the bonding experience of entering a wet T-shirt competition in Cairns. 34

If you do have more time, then it’s worth stopping in the little coastal towns you find along the way. The people you’ll meet in the small towns are generally friendlier and more typically ‘Aussie’ (in the Crocodile Dundee sense), because Sydney locals think crocs are a type of shoe they wouldn’t be caught dead in, and the price of beers in the small country pubs are circa 1985. Perhaps you’ll get the hang of surfing and experience your own Endless Summer by following the sun north. Maybe you’ll feel at one with the peaceful lifestyle of Rainbow Beach and start selling seashells by the sea shore. We recommend having a backup day job or trust fund if this is the case. Or maybe you’ll just get stuck in Nimbin. You don’t need to tell us why. But, just so you have a good base to start with, here are a few of our favourite experiences we recommend you try when travelling the east coast...

THE WHITSUNDAYS Home to arguably Australia’s most stunning beach, the Whitsundays are a spectacular chain of 74 islands off Queensland party town Airlie Beach. Like Australia’s version of the Greek Islands, spending a few days sailing and diving around these dots of palmfringed jungle is a classic backpacker experience, with main attraction Whitehaven Beach being one of the highlights of the east coast. Of course the islands are also dotted around the Great Barrier Reef, one of the seven natural wonders of the world, and the winner of Best Visitor Attraction at the Golden Backpack Awards 2014. Talking of which, The Whitsundays themselves were voted by backpackers as the best area to visit in the whole of Australia, so there you have it. The best way to explore? Take a blissful sailing trip and just sunbathe, dive or snorkel and enjoy.

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EAST COAST

2 CONTIKI’S TOP EAST COAST TRIPS THREE-DAY SNORKEL OR DIVE TO ADVENTURE Escape into the big blue beyond from Cairns. Go Down Under at the world’s premiere underwater playground, the Great Barrier Reef, and see the flora and fauna that call this natural wonder home across three awesome days. FIVE-DAY TROPICAL WONDER Try some whitewater rafting, a high-speed catamaran cruise to the Great Barrier Reef, or just take in the local wildlife at the various nightclubs around town. Relax and let the sun soak in while you enjoy days of leisure on Long Island. SEVEN-DAY ISLAND AND RAINFOREST Take in the crystal clear waters and the lush tropical settings of the east coast. Ride the Captain Cook Highway with rainforest on one side and the Great Barrier Reef on the other, exploring both as you go. CITY TO SURF Want a taste of the big city but also lots of beachside action? City to Surf gives you a taste of both the buzzing city scene and chilled beach life, Aussie-style. Start off in Sydney, exploring the iconic sites and maybe fit in some shopping before making your way to Coffs Harbour and the Surf Camp experience. Maybe cuddle a koala then take it up a notch in the ultimate Aussie party spot, Surfers Paradise. contiki.com

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DISCOVER NOOSA

FRASER ISLAND (& MORE)

Noosa, from an Aboriginal word meaning ‘place of many trees’, has a sunny climate and warm locals. Some must-dos are the Noosa National Park, shopping along Hastings St, tours around the nearby Fraser Island (see right), surfing, horseback riding, Jet Skiing, kite surfing, kayaking, biking and parachuting. Noosa is also a backpacker’s delight with well-priced resorts, a bustling nightlife and loads of bars and live music.

A perennial fave, nothing quite beats hitting up the world’s largest sand island in a 4WD. The inland lakes are also some of the best swimming spots you’re likely to find in Oz. Another little secret for you: it’s a base for Fraser Island sure, but there’s a fair bit to see and do in Rainbow Beach too. Bizarre multi-coloured cliffs, friendly locals, spectacular coastal scenery, Great Sandy National Park, lovely beaches... it’s a wonderful little escape.

EVERYBODY’S SURFING

A TALE OF TWO TOWNS

Like the feel of a board between your legs? Some of the best surf spots are found on the east coast, starting with Whitehaven Beach, which offers perfect waves as well as scenery. Southern Queensland is, in more ways than one, Surfers Paradise. The reef puts a stop to the waves at Bundaberg, but until then, learning to surf is the most fun you can have with (some of) your clothes on. In Sydney, Manly is the perfect place to give it a try.

The thoroughly lovely twin coastal towns of Agnes Water and Town of 1770 are surrounded by inviting national park, offering delightful beaches, turtle watching and access to reef islands. The area is also a great spot to learn to dive and surf, or even for motorbike tours around town. Plus the towns are bathed in that infectious laidback feel – a taste of old-skool Queensland. It’s also the closest point to access to the Southern Great Barrier Reef. Dive straight in! TNTDOWNUNDER.COM

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DIVING THE GREAT BARRIER REEF

AHHHHH-DRENALIN KICKS

When heading up or down the east coast you’re going to be subjected to some of the most beautiful crystal clear water you’ve ever seen. Oh and a World Heritage-listed reef. So take advantage of both by learning to dive. If you’re further south, you can easily find a scuba school in Sydney, but if you want some Great Barrier action you’re going to have to wait till you get to Queensland. There’s 2,000km of it so don’t worry, you’re not going to miss it. A great variation on reef diving is checking out the Yongala wreck off of Townsville. It’s rated as the best wreck dive in Australia with an abundance of marine life to see.

If you like your travels with a side of ‘Oh my God I’m going to die!’ then the east coast won’t disappoint. The AJ Hackett site near Cairns is one of the only places in Oz where you can bungy. It’s also very pretty. If you don’t fancy being attached to a rubber chord then perhaps skydiving is your thing. Offered at all the main hubs along the east coast, it makes you feel invincible, scares the living shit out of you and offers incredible views in the process. What’s not to like? Want something a bit more surreal? Try Zorbing on the Gold Coast – you’re basically thrown down a hill inside a big ball.

Photos: iStock, AJ HAckett Cairns and Raging Thunder Adventures.

CAPE YORK ROADTRIP

HIT THE WHITE WATER

NEWCASTLE

Beyond Cooktown lies the remote Cape York Peninsula, at the northernmost tip of Australia (only 150km from Papua New Guinea). It is still one of the wildest and least populated parts of Oz. Unsealed roads, river crossings and crocs make the adventure one of the best roadtrips Down Under. Just don’t even think about it without a 4WD, and travel prepared – water, water and more water.

Whitewater rafting is a knucklewhitening ride that’s all for real. The Tully River, accessed from Mission Beach and Cairns, is the most popular place to get wet. Hold on for the ride of your life as you whizz down the rapids. Mission Beach itself is another underrated gem; a great place to detox after (or before) Cairns, with snorkelling, diving, skydiving and rainforest walks all available.

Named after England’s famous coal port, Newcastle was originally the place where the most dangerous convicts were sent to dig in the coal mines as harsh punishment for their crimes. Guess who’s having the last laugh now... Yep, it has great surf spots, offers high-adrenalin among the sand dunes, its art scene is growing and its small bar scene is overflowing. Definitely worth a visit from Sydney.

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Sydney r o f in 's o h W r? in Novembe

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OZLISTINGS TOUR FIRMS Adventure Tours Australia-wide tours 1800 068 886, adventuretours.com.au Airliebeach.com Whitsundays packages 1800 677 119, airliebeach.com Autopia Tours Tours around Victoria 03 9391 0261, autopiatours.com.au Awesome Adventures Oz Whitsundays packages 1800 293 7663, awesomeoz.com Tours in Tasmania Tours around Tasmania 1800 777 103, tourstascom.au Bunyip Tours Tours around Victoria 1300 286 947, bunyiptours.com

linking Adelaide, Alice Springs & Melbourne 1800 661 177, groovygrape.com.au

Ocean Rafting Whitsundays tours 07 4946 6848, oceanrafting.com

Heading Bush Adelaide to Alice Springs outback tours 1800 639 933, headingbush.com

Oz Experience Hop on-hop off Australia-wide tours 1300 300 028, ozexperience.com

Jump Tours Tours around Tasmania 0422 130 630, jumptours.com

Surfcamp Sydney to Byron surfing tours 1800 888 732, surfcamp.com.au

Kakadu Dreams Kakadu tours 1800 813 266, kakadudreams.com.au

The Rock Tour Red centre tours 1800 246 345, therocktour.com.au

Kangaroo Island Adventure Tours Adelaide to KI tours 08 8202 8678, kiadventuretours.com.au

Topdeck Tours covering all of Oz 1300 886 332, topdeck.travel

Kangaroo Island Wildlife Adventures South Australia 1800 786 386, surfandsun.com.au

Cool Dingos Fraser Island Tours 1800 072 555, cooldingotour.com

Whitsundays Sailing Adventures Whitsundays sailing 07 4940 2007 WhitsundaysSailingAdventures. com.au

Explore Whitsundays Whitsundays packages 1800 675 790, explorewhitsundays.com Groovy Grape Getaways Tours

Mojosurf Sydney to Byron surfing tours 1800 113 044, mojosurf.com

RENTAL FIRMS Apollo Motorhomes 1800 777 779, apollocamper.com Mighty Cars and Campers (Formerly Backpacker Campervan Rentals) 1800 809 944 mightycampers.com.au Boomerang Cars 0414 882 559, boomerangrentacar.net Hippie Camper 1800 777 779, hippiecamper.com

Under Down Under Tours Tours around Tasmania 1800 064 726, underdownunder.com.au

Spaceships 1300 132 469, spaceshipsrentals.com.au

Western Xposure WA tours 08 9414 8423, westernxposure.com.au Wilderness 4WD Adventures Top end tours 1800 808 288, wildernessadventures.com.au Wildlife Tours Tours around Victoria 1300 661 730, wildlifetours.com.au

Kings Cross Car Market For buying and selling vehicles. 110 Bourke St, Woolloomooloo. 02 9358 5000, carmarket.com.au

Standbycars.com 1300 789 059, standbycars.com Travellers Auto Barn 1800 674 374, travellers-autobarn.com.au Wicked Campers 1800 246 869, wickedcampers.com

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TRANSPORT Greyhound Australia Buses around Australia. 13 20 30, greyhound.com.au Jetstar Airline. 131 538, jetstar.com.au Premier Transport Group Buses along the east coast. 13 34 10, premierms.com.au Qantas Airline. 13 13 13, qantas.com.au Regional Express Airline. 13 17 13, rex.com.au Spirit of Tasmania Ferries to Tasmania. 03 6336 1446, spiritoftasmania.com Tiger Airways Airline. 03 9999 2888, tigerairways.com Redline Coaches For getting around Tasmania. 03 6336 1446, tasredline.com.au Virgin Australia Airline. 13 67 89, virginaustralia.com

With great fares every day! . . . why not travel PREMIER class! Climate control air-conditioning • Experienced Coach Captains • Panoramic glare free windows • Comfy reclining seats Onboard video entertainment • Washroom • State of the art safety features • Seat belts

10% off

aiting for! w u o y e r a What

if you have a genuine backpacker’s card

• Flexible travel on a budget to suit you • One, three and six month PaSSeS available • Daily ServiceS from Melbourne to cairns

MElbOuRnE • SydnEy • byROn bay • GOld COaSt bRISbanE • aIRlIE bEaCh • MISSIOn bEaCh • CaIRnS

www.premierms.com.au or phone 13 13 34 34 10 10 www.premierms.com.au or ph 38

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SYDNEY STAY

STAY HERE

Base Sydney 477 Kent St. CBD.

Oxford Art Factory oxfordartfactory.com

Big Hostel 212 Elizabeth St. CBD. 02 9281 6030 bighostel.com

Sydney Opera House sydneyoperahouse.com

Bounce Budget Hotel 28 Chalmers St. CBD.

The Annandale annandalehotel.com

Easy Go Backpackers 752 George St. CBD. 02 9211 0505, easygobackpackers.com.au Eva’s Backpackers 6-8 Orwell Street Kings Cross 02 9358 2185, evasbackpackers.com.au City Resort Hostel 103-105 Palmer St. Woolloomooloo 02 9357 3333 cityresort.com.au Sydney Central YHA 11 Rawson Place. CBD. Westend Backpackers 412 Pitt St. CBD. Boomerang Backpackers 141 William Street, Kings Cross. 02 8354 0488, boomerangbackpackers.com Dlux Hostel 30 Darlinghurst Rd, Kings Cross. 1800 236 213 dluxbudgethotel.com.au Kangaroo Bak Pak 665 South Dowling St. Surry Hills. 02 9318 0902 Avalon Beach Hostel 59 Avalon Pde, Avalon Beach. 02 9918 9709, avalonbeach.com.au Bondi Shores Level 1. 283 Bondi Road, Bondi bondishores.com.au Bondi YHA 63 Fletcher Street. Tamarama. yha.com.au Lamrock Lodge 19 Lamrock Ave. Bondi. 02 9130 5063, lamrocklodge.com

The Enmore enmoretheatre.com.au The Metro metrotheatre.com.au

212 Elizabeth Street, Surry Hills. Beds from $32 The Big Hostel is made up of four, six and eight-bed dormitories as well as singles, doubles, twins, triples and family rooms for travellers who are looking for a little privacy.

Sydney

bighostel.com

Glebe Point YHA 262-264 Glebe Point Road. Glebe. yha.com.au

Sydney Aquarium Darling Harbour. sydneyaquarium.com.au

Boardrider Backpacker Rear 63, The Corso, Manly. 02 9977 6077 boardrider.com.au

Sydney Wildlife World Darling Harbour. sydneywildlifeworld.com.au

The Bunkhouse 35 Pine St, Manly. 1800 657 122, bunkhouse.com.au

Taronga Zoo Mosman. taronga.org.au

Manly Backpackers 24-28 Raglan St. Manly. 02 9977 3411 manlybackpackers.com.au

Waves Surf School wavessurfschool.com.au

Cammeray Gardens 66 Palmer St, North Sydney. 02 9954 9371 sydneyboardinghouse.com

CENTRAL COAST Newcastle Beach YHA 30 Pacific St, Newcastle. yha.com.au The Entrance Backpackers 2/56 The Entrance Road, The Entrance, 2261 02 4334 5005 theentrancebackpackers.com Skydive Central Coast Warnervale. skydivethecentralcoast.com.au

BYRON BAY Backpackers Holiday Village 116 Jonson St

Backpackers Inn 29 Shirley St 1800 817 696 backpackersinnbyronbay.com.au Byron Bay Accom 02 6680 8666, byronbayaccom.net The Arts Factory 1 Skinners Shoot Rd. Nomads Byron Bay Lawson Lane. Byron Bay YHA 7 Carlyle St. Skydive the Beach Byron Bay Kingsford Smith Park, Ballina 1800 302 005 skydivethebeachbyronbay.com

COFFS HARB Coffs Harbour YHA 51 Collingwood St. Harbour City Holiday Park 123 Pacific Highway

coffsholidaypark.com.au Hoey Moey Backpackers 80 Ocean Pde hoeymoey.com.au Solitary Islands Marine Resort North St, Wooli NSW 1462 1800 003 031 solitaryislandsresort.com.au

IN THE SPOTLIGHT

SYDNEY DO Manly Surf School Manly Beach. 02 9977 6977, manlysurfschool.com Maritime Museum Darling Harbour. anmm.gov.au My Sydney Detour Unique city tours. mysydneydetour.com

Aegean Coogee Lodge 40 Coogee Bay Rd. Coogee. 04 0817 6634, aegeancoogee.com.au

Powerhouse Museum Darling Harbour. powerhousemuseum.com.au

Surfside Backpackers 186 Arden Street. Coogee. 02 9315 7888, surfsidebackpackers.com.au

Blue Mountains YHA 207 Katoomba St, Katoomba. yha.com.au

1800 350 388, byronbaybackpackers.com.au

Wake Up! 509 Pitt St, CBD.

Oceanworld Manly West Esplanade. oceanworld.com.au

Coogee Beachside 178 Coogee Bay Rd, Coogee. 02 9315 8511, sydneybeachside.com.au

BLUE MTNS

BIG HOSTEL

Lochner’s Guesthouse 27 Paul St. Bondi. 02 9389 5421

Coogee Beach House 171 Arden St. Coogee. 02 9665 1162, coogeebeachhouse.com

SYDNEY MUSIC Hordern Pavillion playbillvenues.com

Skydive the Beach Wollongong. skydivethebeach.com Sydney Olympic Park Darling Harbour. sopa.nsw.gov.au Sydney Tower and Skywalk 100 Market St, CBD. sydneytowereye.com.au Sydney Harbour Bridge The Rocks. bridgeclimb.com

MANLY BACKPACKERS Thinking about an early morning surf? An evening swim? A stroll along Manly`s famous promenade along the beach? Or maybe you just need to get to Manly`s huge selection of pubs and clubs? If you`re staying at Manly Backpackers you won`t have to walk far for any of this. Bonus.

Sydney

manlybackpackers.com.au

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TASLISTINGS

HOBART STAY Backpackers Imperial Hobart 138 Collins St. 03 6229 5215, centralbackpackers.com.au

LAUNCESTON DO

CHECK OUT!

Cataract Gorge launcestoncataractgorge.com.au Centre for Beer Lovers Boag’s Brewery, 39 William St. 03 6332 6300, boags.com.au

Hobart Hostel 41 Barrack St. 1300 252 192, hobarthostel.com

Queen Victoria Museum & Art Gallery 2 Invermay Rd & 2 Wellington St. 03 6323 3777, qvmag.tas.gov.au

Montgomery’s YHA 9 Argyle St. Narrara Backpackers 88 Goulburn St. 03 6234 8801, narrarabackpackers.com

Tasmania Zoo 1166 Ecclestone Rd. 03 6396 6100, tasmaniazoo.com.au

Pickled Frog 281 Liverpool St. 03 6234 7977, thepickledfrog.com

DEVONPORT

Transit Backpackers 251 Liverpool St. 03 6231 2400, transitbackpackers.com

Those in search of real adventure should make their way to southwest Tassie, one of Australia’s greatest wilderness regions. Some of it still isn’t mapped and if the Tassie tiger still exists, it’ll be here.

HOBART DO Cascade Brewery 140 Cascade Rd. 03 6224 1117 cascadebreweryco.com.au Mt Wellington Descent Bike tours. 03 6274 1880 mtwellingtondescent.com.au

parks.tas.gov.au

PORT ARTHUR Port Arthur Historic Ghost Tours 1800 659 101, portarthur.org.au

Salamanca Markets Every Saturday, Salamanca Place. salamanca.com.au Tasmanian Museum & Art Gallery 5 Argyle St. tmag.tas.gov.au

Tasman Backpackers 114 Tasman St. 03 6423 2335, tasmanbackpackers.com.au

THE SOUTH-WEST

LAUNCESTON Arthouse Backpacker Hostel 20 Lindsay St. 1800 041 135, arthousehostel.com.au

Launceston Backpackers 103 Canning St. 03 6334 2327, launcestonbackpackers.com.au Lloyds Hotel 23 George St. 03 6331 9906, backpackersaccommodation.com.au

BICHENO Bicheno Backpackers 11 Morrison St. 03 6375 1651, bichenobackpackers.com Bicheno Penguin Tours 03 6375 1333, bichenopenguintours.com.au

CRADLE MTN Discovery Holiday Parks Cradle Mountain Rd. 1800 068 574 discoveryholidayparks.com. au/TAS

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Mt Roland Budget Backpacker Rooms 1447 Claude Rd, Gowrie Park. 03 6491 1385

CRADLE DO Devils @ Cradle Tassie devil sanctuary. 3950 Cradle Mountain Rd. 03 6492 1491. devilsatcradle.com Overland Track Six-day walk parks.tas.gov.au

FREYCINET Big 4 Iluka Reserve Rd. Freycinet National Park Brewery, Wineglass Bay camping. 03 6256 7000 wineglassbay.com

STRAHAN, Strahan YHA 43 Harvey St.

STRAHAN DO Wild Rivers Jet Jet Boat Cruises. 0364717396 wildriversjet.com.au Water by Nature Extreme multiday whitewater rafting. 1800 111 142, franklinrivertasmania.com

IN THE SPOTLIGHT

BAY OF FIRES The Bay of Fires is a 29km sweep of powdery white sand, crystal clear seas and granite splashed with orange lichen. It has been called one of the most beautiful beaches in the world. In 2009, this area was named one of the world’s hottest travel destinations by Lonely Planet and, once you experience it first hand, you’ll understand why. The bay was named by Captain Tobias Furneaux in 1773 in response to the many Aboriginal fires he saw burning on its shore. Although people visiting the area today often believe that the name refers to the play of light on the water. It’s a good guess – the light in Tasmania has a crystalline quality which contrasts well with the white sand on the shores. Around the bay you’ll find quaint villages that are popular for fishing, boating, swimming and kayaking.

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MELBOURNE STAY All Nations Nomads 2 Spencer St. Base Melbourne 17 Carlisle St, St. Kilda. Central Melbourne Accommodation 21 Bromham Place, Richmond. 03 9427 9826, centralaccommodation.net Exford Hotel 199 Russell St. 03 9663 2697, exfordhotel.com.au Flinders Station Hotel 35 Elizabeth St. 03 9620 5100, flindersbackpackers.com.au The Greenhouse Backpacker Level 6, 228 Flinders Lane. 1800 249 207, greenhousebackpacker.com.au Habitat HQ 333 St Kilda Road, St Kilda. 1800 202 500, habitathq.com.au Home at the Mansion 66 Victoria Parade. 03 9663 4212 homemansion.com.au Home Travellers Motel 32 Carlisle St, St Kilda. 1800 008 718, homehostels.com.au Discovery Melbourne 167 Franklin St. 03 9329 7525 discoverymelbourne.com Melbourne Central YHA 562 Flinders St. Nomads Melbourne 198 A’beckett St. Space Hotel 380 Russell St. 1800 670 611, spacehotel.com.au The Spencer 475 Spencer St. 1800 638 108, spencerbackpackers.com.au Back of Chapel 50 Green St, Windsor College Lawn Hotel 36 Greville St, Prahran collegelawnhotel.com.au Claremont Guesthouse 189 Toorak Rd, South Yarra hotelclaremont.com City Centre Budget Hotel 22-30 Little Collins St citycentrebudgethotel.com Elephant Backpackers 250 Flinders St elephantbackpacker.com.au Elizabeth Hostel 490 Elizabeth St elizabethhostel.com.au King St Backpackers 160 King Street

VICLISTINGS

facebook/tntdownunder kingstreetbackpackers.com.au Hotel Discovery 167 Franklin St hoteldiscovery.com.au

CHECK IN

Lords Lodge Backpackers 204 Punt Rd lordslodge.com.au Melbourne International Backpackers 450 Elizabeth St mibp.com.au Melbourne Metro YHA 78 Howard St Melbourne Oasis YHA 76 Chapman St St Arnaud 99 Park St, South Yarra, starnaudguesthouse.com The Spencer City Central BP 475 Spencer St spencerbackpackers.com.au The Nunnery 116 Nicholson Street, Fitzroy nunnery.com.au Victoria Hotel Backpackers Victoria Hotel, 380 Victoria St vichotelbrunswick.com.au

ST KILDA Back of Chapel Backpackers 50 Green St backofchapel.com Base St Kilda 17 Carlisle St Coffee Palace Backpackers 24 Grey St coffeepalacebackpackers.com.au

THE ISLAND ACCOMMODATION 10-12 Phillip Island Rd, Cowes. Prices from $30 per person in a multi bed dorm. An award-winning ecofriendly accommodation complex which provides a gateway to Phillip Island.

Phillip Island

theislandaccommodation.com.au

National Gallery of Victoria Federation Square. ngv.vic.gov.au

Nepean Hwy. 1800 850 600, mornpen.vic.gov.au

Old Melbourne Gaol 377 Russell St. 03 8663 7228, oldmelbournegaol.com.au

Sorrento YHA 3 Miranda St, Sorrento.

Official Neighbours Tours 570 Flinders St. neighbourstour.com.au Skydive the Beach Melbourne 1300 798 843 skydivethebeachmelbourne.com Tourism Victoria Backpacking ideas. backpackmelbourne.com

Habitat HQ 333 St Kilda Rd, thehabitathq.com.au

Wildlife Tours Australia Specialising in Victorian tours +61 3 9314 2225 wildlifetours.com.au

Oslo Hotel 38 Grey St oslohotel.com.au

GREAT OCEAN RD

The Ritz for Backpackers 169 Fitzroy St, St Kilda ritzbackpackers.com

Anglesea Backpackers 40 Noble St, Anglesea. 03 5263 2664, angleseabackpackers.com.au

St Kilda Beach House 109 Barkly St, St Kilda stkildabeachhouse.com.au

Apollo Eco Beach YHA 5 Pascoe St.

MELBOURNE DO Australian Centre for the Moving Image Federation Square. 03 8663 2200, acmi.net.au Melbourne Aquarium Cnr of Flinders St & King St. 03 9923 5999, melbourneaquarium.com.au Discovery Melbourne 167 Franklin St. discoverymelbourne.com Melbourne Cricket Ground Brunton Av. 03 9657 8888 mcg.org.au Melbourne Museum 11 Nicholson St, Carlton. 13 11 02 melbourne.museum.vic.gov.au

Great Ocean Road Backpackers 10 Erskine Av, Lorne. 03 5289 1070, greatoceanroadcottages.com Port Campbell Hostel 18 Tregea St, Port Campbell. 03 5598 6305, portcampbellhostel.com.au Surfside Backpackers Cnr Great Ocean Rd & Gambier St, Apollo Bay. 1800 357 263, surfsidebackpacker.com

MORNINGTON Bayplay Lodge 46 Canterbury Jetty Rd, Blairgowrie. 03 5988 0188, bayplay.com.au Sorrento Foreshore Reserve

beachpark.com.au BIG4 Inverloch Holiday Park 2 Cuttriss St, Inverloch. 03 5674 1447, inverlochholidaypark.com.au

Tortoise Head Lodge French Island. 03 5980 1234, tortoisehead.net

BIG4 Phillip Island Caravan Park 24 Old Bridge Dr, Newhaven. 03 5956 7227, phillipislandcpk.com.au

DANDENONG Emerald Backpackers 03 5968 4086

Cowes Caravan Park 164 Church St, Cowes. 03 5952 2211, cowescaravan.com.au

MURRAY RIVER Echuca Gardens YHA 103 Av, Mitchell St, Echuca.

Koala Park Resort 1825 Phillip Island Rd, Cowes. 03 5952 2176, koalaparkresort.com.au

Mildura City Backpackers 50 Lemon Ave, Mildura. 03 5022 7922, milduracitybackpackers.com.au Oasis Backpackers 230 Deakin Av, Mildura. 04 0734 4251, milduraoasisbackpackers.com.au

GIPPSLAND Prom Coast YHA Backpackers 0427 875 735 Cambrai Hostel Maffra 117 Johnson St, Maffra. 1800 101 113 maffra.net.au/hostel

PHILLIP ISLAND Amaroo Park YHA 97 Church St, Cowes. Anchor Belle Holiday Park 272 Church St, Cowes. 03 5952 2258, anchorbelle.com.au Avenue Apartments 204 Thompson Avenue, Cowes. 03 5952 6718, visitphillipisland.com Beach Park Tourist Caravan Park 2 McKenzie Rd, Cowes. 03 5952 22113,

The Island Accommodation 10-12 Phillip Island Tourist Road. 03 5956 6123 theislandaccommodation.com. au San Remo Holiday Park 4 Mary Grove, San Remo. 03 5678 5024 visitphillipisland.com

GRAMPIANS Grampians YHA Eco Hostel Cnr Grampians & Buckler Rds, Halls Gap. Tim’s Place 44 Grampians Road, Halls Gap. 03 5356 4288, timsplace.com.au

MILDURA Mildura City Backpackers 50 Lemon Avenue milduracitybackpackers.com.au

STRATHMERTON Riviera Backpackers YHA 669 Esplanade

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QLDLISTINGS

BRISBANE STAY Aussie Way Backpackers 34 Cricket St. 07 3369 0711, aussiewaybackpackers.com Banana Bender Backpackers 118 Petrie Terrace. 07 3367 1157, bananabenders.com Brisbane Backpackers Resort 110 Vulture St, West End. 1800 626 452, brisbanebackpackers.com.au Brisbane City Backpackers 380 Upper Roma St 1800 062 572, citybackpackers.com Bunk Backpackers Cnr Ann & Gipps Sts, 1800 682 865, katarzyna.com.au The Deck 117 Harcourt Street, New Farm. 04 3270 6666 Balmoral House 33 Amelia St, Fortitude Valley vipbackpackers.com Brisbane City YHA 392 Upper Roma St The Elephant Hotel 230 Wickham St

elephanthotel.com.au Somewhere to Stay Cnr Brighton Rd & Franklin St somewheretostay.com.au The Palace Backpackers Cnr Anne & Edward St backpackbrisbane.com Tin Billy Travellers 462 George St tinbilly.com

BRISBANE DO Australia Zoo Glasshouse Mountains, Tourist Drive, Beerwah. 07 5436 2000, australiazoo.com.au Gallery of Modern Art Australian and international paintings, sculptures and decorative art. 07 3840 7303, qag.qld.gov.au Riverlife Adventure Centre Kayaking & rock climbing. Lower River Terrace, Kangaroo Point. 07 3891 5766, riverlife.com.au Story Bridge Adventure Climb 170 Main St, Kangaroo Point. 1300 254 627, storybridgeadventureclimb. com.au

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XXXX Brewery Tours & Ale House Brewery tours. Cnr Black & Paten St, Milton. 07 3361 7597, xxxxalehouse.com. au

GOLD COAST Aquarius Backpackers 44 Queen St, Surfers Paradise. 1800 22 99 55, aquariusbackpackers.com.au Backpackers in Paradise 40 Peninsula Drive, Surfers Paradise. 1800 268 621, backpackersinparadise.com.au Coolangatta YHA Pl, 230 Coolangatta Rd, Bilinga. Budds in Surfers 6 Pine Ave, Budds Beach, Surfers Paradise 07 5538 9661, buddsinsurfers.com.au Gold Coast International BP 28 Hamilton Ave, Surfers. 1800 816 300, goldcoastbackpackers.com.au Islander Backpackers Resort 6 Beach Rd, Surfers. 1800 074 393, islander.com.au Sleeping Inn Surfers 26 Peninsular Dr, Surfers Paradise.

07 5592 4455, sleepinginn.com.au Surfers Paradise Backpackers Resort 2837 Gold Coast Highway, Surfers. 1800 282 800, surfersparadisebackpackers. com.au Surfers Paradise YHA Mariners Cove, 70 Seaworld Drive, Main Beach, Surfers Paradise. Trekkers Backpackers 22 White St, Southport. 07 5591 5616, trekkersbackpackers.com.au

@tnt_downunder

Zorb 07 5547 6300

SUNSHINE CST Mooloolaba Backpackers 75-77 Brisbane Rd, Mooloolaba. 1800 020 120 mooloolababackpackers.com

RAINBOW BEACH Dingos Backpacker Adventure Resort 20 Spectrum St. 1800 111126, dingosresort.com

Nomads Islander Resort 3128 Surfers Paradise Blvd,

Pippies Beach House 22 Spectrum St. 1800 425 356, pippiesbeachhouse.com

Surf & Sun Backpackers 3323 Surfers Paradise Blvd surfnsun-goldcoast.com

Skydive Rainbow Beach 0418 218 358, skydiverainbowbeach.com

GC DO Dreamworld Theme park. dreamworld.com.au Get Wet Surf School 1800 438 938 Seaworld

seaworld.com.au

Wet ‘n’ Wild Water World wetnwild.myfun.com.au Warner Bros Movie World movieworld.com.au

HERVEY BAY Aussie Woolshed 181 Torquay Rd 07 4124 0677 woolshedbackpackers.com.au Next at Hervey Bay 10 Bideford St. 1800 102 989, nextbackpackers.com Palace Backpackers 184 Torquay, 1800 063 168, palaceadventures.com.au

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FRASER ISLAND

AIRLIE BEACH

Eurong Beach Resort 07 4120 1600, eurong.com.au

airliebeach.com 259 Shute Harbour Rd. 1800 677 119

Palace Adventures 184 Torquay St, Hervey Bay, 1800 063 168 palaceadventures.com.au

Airlie Beach YHA 394 Shute Harbour Rd.

Barefoot Lodge Long Island barefootlodge.com.au Colonial Village YHA 820 Boat Harbour Drive, Urangan, Hervey Bay Cool Dingo’s Rainbow Beach 20 Spectrum St dingosresort.com Dropbear Adventures Williams Ave, Fraser Island. QLD 61 487 333 606 dropbearadventures.com.au Frasers On Rainbow Beach 195 Torquay Terrace, Torquay, flashpackersherveybay.com Kingfisher Bay Resort River Heads Road, Fraser Island kingfisherbay.com Fraser Coast Top Tourist Park 21 Denmans Camp Road, Scarness, Hervey Bay frasercoasttouristpark.com.au Fraser Island Backpackers Cathedral Beach, Fraser Island fraserislandco.com.au Fraser’s on Rainbow 18 Spectrum Av, Rainbow Beach frasersonrainbow.com

Backpackers by the Bay 12 Hermitage Dr. 1800 646 994, backpackersbythebay.com Base Airlie Beach Resort 336 Shute Harbour Rd Magnums Whitsunday Village Resort 366 Shute Harbour Rd. 1800 624 634 magnums.com.au

LET THE ADVENTURE BEGIN!

LIAʼS N TO DIVE WITH AUSTRA TAKE THE PLUNGE, LEAR VE PROFESSIONALS GREAT BARRIER REEF DI

BOWEN Bowen Backpackers Beach end of Herbert St. 07 4786 3433 bowenbackpackers.net

TOWNSVILLE Adventurers Resort 79 Palmer St. 1800 211 522, adventurersresort.com Adrenalin Dive 07 4724 0600, adrenalindive.com.au Yongala Dive Yongala diving. 07 4783 1519, yongaladive.com.au

MAGNETIC IS

and fast food joints to help with yourBase Gilligan's hangover. Magnetic Island 1 Nelly Bay Rd. The Friendly Hostel 13:00: Continuing north of Port Douglas you’ll land in 182 Torquay Rd, Hervey Bay Bungalow Bay Backpackers Mossmanfriendlyhostel.com.au Gorge (mossmangorge.com.au). At Daintree Horseshow Bay. NationalWoolshed Park the gorge is a must-see.1800 Once you’ve trekked Backpackers 285 577, 181path Torquayyou’ll Road be able to give your bungalowbay.com.au along the feet a rest and woolshedbackpackers.com.au Hotel Arcadia admire the crystal clear Mossman River that cascades over 7 Marine Parade, Arcadia Bay. granite boulders. 07 4778 5177, BUNDABERG hotelaracadia.com.au 15:00: Heading back to the car and continuing north Federal Backpackers 221 Bourbong St. 07 4153 3711 Pleasure Divers you’ll find yourself at Cape Tribulation. Check out Ferntree federalbackpackers.com.au 07 4778 5788 Rainforest Lodge (ferntreerainforestlodge.com.au) Northside Backpackers which has classic tables. They 12 Queen St.huts with a bar and wooden MISSION BEACH 07 4154 1166 meals night and day. After eating it’s serve scrumptious Absolute Backpackers Wongaling Bundaberg time to enjoy theBondstore delights of the Cape28 with a Croc cruise Beach Road. Distillery tours. 07 4068 8317,wildlife cruise (daintreerivercruises.com.au) A one hour 07 4131 2999 absolutebackpackers.com.au bundabergrum.com.au that lets you spot wild animals in their natural habitat. Be Beach Shack DingoBlue Backpackers warned: don’t walk too close to any mangroves, you might 86 Porters Promenade 11 Burrum St, Bundaberg QLD 4670 missionbeachshack.com get an unwanted 07 4152 0100 snap. 19:00: Withdingobluebackpackers.com all that excitement it’s time to head back Scotty’s Beach House 167 Reid Rd. 07 4068 8676, Mid As Pointthe Backpackers towards Grand Cairns. evening settles, head straight into the scottysbeachhouse.com.au 87-89 Bourbong St, Bundaberg 4670 city centre where 07 4151 0003 there is wide array of restaurants for you Jackaroo Hostel Mission Beach grandhotelbundy.com.au to pick from along the main strip. Frizelle Rd, Bingil Bay jackaroohostel.com 19:00: And it wouldn't be true Cairns experience without TOWN OF 1770 Mission Retreat dancing the night away at The Woolshed Beach (thewoolshed. 49 Porters Promenade 1770 Backpackers com.au).6 Captain With Cook themed nights on everymissionbeachretreat.com.au night, try your luck Dr. 1800T-shirt 121 770, competitions or see how you fare in their in the wet the1770backpackers.com CAIRNS STAY Mexican drinking games. Either way you'll end your Cairns 1770 Undersea Adventures Bohemia Central Cairns trip on a1300 high. 553 889, 100 Sheridan St. 1800 558 589, 1770underseaadventures.com.au

. . . E R E H Y L L A IN F E ’R YOU

bhacentral.com.au

Our 5 Day PADI Open water course is the most popular way to do it.

We also specialise in Liveaboard dive trips and all levels of dive education.

www.prodivecairns.com SHOP: Cnr Shields & Grafton Sts, Cairns FREECALL: 1800 353 213 PHONE: +617 4031 5255 RES: info@prodivecairns.com TNTDOWNUNDER.COM53 43 tntdownunder.com

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QLDLISTINGS

Bohemia Resort Cairns 231 McLeod St. 1800 155 353 bohemiaresort.com.au

Lot 5, Buchanan Creek Rd, Cow Bay. 07 4098 9166, crocodyluscapetrib.com

Noosa Backpackers 9-13 William St, Noosaville noosabackpackers.com

Calypso Backpackers 5 Digger St. 1800 815 628, calypsobackpackers.com.au

PK’s Jungle Village Cnr Avalon & Cape Trib Rd. 1800 232 333,

Halse Lodge YHA 2 Halse Lane, Noosa. 1800 242 567, halselodge.com.au

pksjunglevillage.com.au

JJ’s Backpackers Hostel 11 Charles St. 07 4051 7642, jjsbackpackers.com

INNISFAIL

NJoy Backpackers Hostel Harbour 141 Sheridan St. 1800 807 055, njoy.net.au

Innisfail Budget Backpackers Worker’s Hostel 125 Edith St. 07 4061 78337

Nomads Beach House 239 Sheridan St.

Walkabout Motel & ackpackers 07 4061 2311 walkaboutbackpackers.com

Northern Greenhouse 117 Grafton Street. 1800 229 228, northerngreenhouse.com.au

CAIRNS DO AJ Hackett Bungy jumping & canyon swinging. 1800 622 888 cairns.ajhackett.com Go Wild Jungle Tours Day tours to Daintree Rainforest. 07 4041 9440, jungletours.com.au Pro Dive 07 4031 5255 prodivecairns.com Raging Thunder Adventures Whitewater rafting. 07 4030 7990, ragingthunder.com.au Skydive Cairns POBOX 105N Cairns 07 4052 1822, skydivecairns.com.au

CAPE TRIB Crocodylus Village

PORT DOUGLAS Parrotfish Backpackers Resort 37 Warner St, Kuranda. 07 4099 5011, parrotfishlodge.com

GULF SAVANNAH Emu Creek Cattle Station 08 9943 0534

DAINTREE Koala Beach Resort Lake St, 07 4051 4933

MORETON ISLAND Tangalooma Wild Dolphin Resort tangalooma.com

NOOSA STAY Flashpackers Noosa 102 Pacific Avenue, Sunshine Beach flashpackersnoosa.com Nomads Noosa Backpackers 44 Noosa Dr Noosa Inland

Dolphins Beach House Noosa 14 – 16 Duke Street, Sunshine Beach dolphinsbeachhouse.com

NOOSA DO Australia Zoo 1638 Steve Irwin Way, Sunshine Coast australiazoo.com The Discovery Group Noosa Everglades thediscoverygroup.com.au Drop Bear Adventures Fraser Island from Noosa dropbearadventures.com.au Kanu Kapers Australia Noosa Everglades kanukapersaustralia.com Noosa Learn to Surf Noosa Main Beach, Noosa Heads learntosurf.com.au

PORT DOUGLAS Dougies Backpackers Resort 111 Davidson St dougies.com.au Global Port Douglas 38 Macrossan St globalbackpackerscairns.com. au/port-douglas Parrot Fish Lodge 37 Warner St parrotfishlodge.com Port O’Call YHA 7 Craven Close portocall.com.au

INNISFAIL Codge Lodge 63 Rankin St codgelodge.com Crown Hostel 25 Ernest St 07 4061 2266 Backpackers Shack 7 Ernest St fbackpakershack.com Farm work, Innisfail farmwork.tv/farmwork/innisfail

AGNES WATER 1770 Beachside Backpacker 12 Captain Cook Drive independentbackpackers.com 1770 Southern Cross Backpackers 2694 Round Hill Rd 1770southerncross.com

ROCKHAMPTON Emu Park Resort 92 Patterson St, Emu Park emusbeachresort.com Rockhampton Backpackers YHA 60 Macfarlane St Childers Eco-Lodge Off the Princess Highway childersecolodge.com.au

SUNSHINE COAST Amore on Buderim 27 Earlybird Dr, Buderim amoreonbuderim.com.au Buderim Motor Inn 45 King St, Buderim buderimmotorinn.com Bli Bli House B&B 600 David Low Way, Pacific Paradise.

@tnt_downunder buderimmotorinn.com Beach Front Towers 4 Aerodrome Rd, Marochydore beachfronttowers.com.au Cotton Tree Beachouse 15 the Esplanade cottontreebackpackers.com The Duporth 6 Wharf St, Maroochydore theduporth.com.au

TOWNSVILLE Adventurers Backpackers 79 Palmer St adventurersresort.com Civic Guest House Backpackers Hostel 262 Walker St civicguesthousetownsville. com.au Foreign Exchange Accommodation Beachside 19 Eyre St, North Ward foreignx.com.au

MACKAY Gecko’s Rest 34 Sydney St geckosrest.com.au

MAGNETIC IS Base Magnetic Island 1 Nelly Bay Rd Bungalow Bay Koala Village 40 Horseshoe Bay Rd bungalowbay.com.au

MUST VISIT

BUNDABERG Reef and rum aren’t two things you’d normally associate together, but it just so happens that Bundaberg specialises in both. There are so many fish swimming about it’s hard to keep track. Ornate butterfly fish, emperor angel fish and brass-striped barracuda are just a few... and Mon Repos National Park boasts the Southern Hemisphere’s largest nesting population of loggerhead turtles. There’s plenty of accommodation options in Bundaberg’s wide and gracious main streets for any backpackers hunting down the region’s plentiful fruitpicking work. It’s main attraction, though, is its rum distillery and it’s fair to say that Bundaberg Rum is about as Australian a drink as you can get. Bundy is also home to the unique Bundaberg Barrel, pictured.

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NTLISTINGS DARWIN STAY

KATHERINE STAY

CHECK IN

Banyan View Lodge Darwin 119 Mitchell St. 08 8981 8644, banyanviewlodge.com.au

BIG4 Katherine Holiday Park 20 Shadforth Road. 1800 501 984, big4.com.au

Darwin YHA 97 Mitchell St.

Palm Court Kookaburra Backpackers Third St. 08 8972 2722

Elkes Backpackers 112 Mitchell St. 1800 808 365, elkesbackpackers.com.au

KATHERINE DO

Frogshollow Backpackers 27 Lindsay St. 1800 068 686, frogs-hollow.com.au

Airborne Solutions Scenic helicopter flights. 08 8972 2345 airbornesolutions.com.au

Gecko Lodge 146 Mitchell St. 1800 811 250, geckolodge.com.au Melaleuca on Mitchell 52 Mitchell St. 1300 723 437, momdarwin.com

DARWIN YHA 97 Mitchell Str, Darwin. Dorms from $27 Located in the heart of Darwin, YHA Backpackers Hostel is the friendly, quieter option on popular Mitchell Street.

Youth Shack 69 Mitchell St. 1300 793 302, youthshack.com.au

DARWIN DO Crocosaurus Cove Crocodile park and cage of death. 58 Mitchell St. 08 8981 7522, crocosauruscove.com Deckchair Cinema Jervois Rd, Darwin Waterfront. 08 8981 0700, deckchaircinema.com.au

Nitmiluk Tours Gorge cruises and kayak hire. 1300 146 743 nitmiluktours.com.au

Darwin

yha.com.au

Fannie Bay Gaol Heritage prison. East Point Road, Fannie Bay. 08 8941 2260, nt.gov.au Museum & Art Gallery of the Northern Territory 19 Conacher St, Bullocky Point. 08 8999 8264, magnt.nt.gov.au

Oz Jet Boating Stokes Hill Wharf. 1300 135 595, ozjetboating.com.au Spectacular Jumping Crocodile Cruise Adelaide River. 08 8978 9077, jumpingcrocodile.com.au Wave Lagoon Waterfront Precinct. waterfront.nt.gov.au

TENNANT CREEK Tourist Rest Leichardt St. 08 8962 2719, touristrest.com.au

ALICE SPRINGS Alice Lodge 4 Mueller St. 08 8953 1975, alicelodge.com.au Alice Springs YHA Cnr Parsons St & Leichhardt Tce. Haven Resort 3 Larapinta Drive. 1800 794 663, alicehaven.com.au

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Toddy’s Backpackers 41 Gap Rd. ONLINE Rock & Dorm SPECIALS FREECALL 1800 027027 toddys.com.au

ALICE DO Alice Springs Desert Park Larapinta Drive. 08 8951 8788, alicespringsdesertpark.com.au Alice Springs Reptile Centre Meet and hold lizards. 9 Stuart Terrace. 08 8952 8900, reptilecentre.com.au Outback Ballooning Hot air balloon rides. 1800 809 790, outbackballooning.com.au Royal Flying Doctor Service Base Museum and operations room. Stuart Terrace. 08 8952 1129, flyingdoctor.net School of the Air Long-distance schooling museum. 80 Head St. 08 8951 6834, assoa.nt.edu.au The Rock Tour 74 Todd St “3day Uluru only $350” FREECALL 1800 246345 therocktour.com.au

MINDIL BEACH MARKETS The Mindil Beach Sunset Markets are well worth a visit. With more than 270 food and craft stalls set against the backdrop of the beautiful Mindil Beach, these markets deserve their reputation as a tourist must see. Running Thursday and Sunday evenings during the dry season (April-October), Darwin’s proximity to Asia is reflected here, with inexpensive food from all over the continent and beyond on offer, as well as people juggling fire and all that kind of fun malarkey. Thursday 5pm to 10pm. Sunday 4pm to 9pm.

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Coolibah Lodge 194 Brisbane St coolibahlodge.com.au

PERTH STAY Billabong Backpackers Resort 381 Beaufort St. 08 9328 7720, www.billabongresort.com.au

One World Backpackers 162 Aberdeen St, Northbridge. 1800 188 100, oneworldbackpackers.com.au Perth City YHA 300 Wellington St. The Old Swan Barracks 2-8 Francis St. 08 9428 0000, theoldswanbarracks.com

Wickham Retreat Backpackers 25-27 Wickham St, East Perth 08 9325 6398

Grand Central Hotel Backpackers 379 Wellington St 08 9421 1123

Emperorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Crown 85 Stirling St, Northbridge. 1800 991 553, emperorscrown.com.au

Ocean Beach Backpackers 1 Eric St, Cottlesloe. 08 9384 5111, oceanbeachbackpackers.com.au

Underground Backpackers 268 Newcastle St, undergroundbackpackers. com.au

Easy Perth Backpacker 4 Francis Street, Northbridge easyperthbackpackers.com.au

Britannia on William 253 William St, Northbridge. 08 9227 6000, perthbritannia.com

Globe Backpackers & City Oasis Resort 561 Wellington St. 08 9321 4080, globebackpackers.com.au

Northbridge shiralee.com.au

YMCA Jewell House 180 Goderich St ymcajewellhouse.com.au

Hay Street Backpackers 266-268 Hay St haystbackpackers.com

THE PINNACLES Attracting more than 190,000 visitors each year, the Pinnacles of Nambung National Park are the major natural attraction in the Coral Coast region of Cervantes and Jurien Bay. The park is located roughly 200 kilometres north of Perth and covers an area of 17,487 hectares, providing natural habitat for an extensive array of native animals and bird life. These amazing natural limestone structures, some standing as high as five metres, were formed approximately 25,000 to 30,000 years ago, after the sea receded and left deposits of sea shells. Underground Backpackers 268 Newcastle St, Northbridge. 08 9228 3755, underground backpackers.com.au

Backpack City and Surf 41-43 Money St backpacker.com.au

The Witchâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Hat 148 Palmerston St. 08 9228 4228, Witchs-hat.com

Cheviot Lodge 30 Bulwer St cheviotlodge.com

Beatty Lodge 235 Vincent St beattylodge.com.au

Coolibah Lodge 194 Brisbane St coolibahlodge.com.au

Hotel Bambu Backpackers 75 - 77 Aberdeen St, Northbridge bambu.net.au

PERTH DO

Mountway Holiday Apartments 36 Mount St mountwayapartments.com.au Ocean Beach Backpackers 1 Eric St, Cottesloe oceanbeachbackpackers.com.au Perth Beach YHA 256 West Coast Hwy, Scarbrough Planet Inn Backpackers 496 Newcastle St planetinn.com.au The Shiralee Hostel 107 Brisbane St,

Aquarium of Western Australia 91 Southside Drive, Hillarys. 08 9447 7500, aqwa.com.au Art Gallery of Western Australia Perth Cultural Centre/Roe St, Perth. 08 9492 6600, artgallery.wa.gov.au Aviation Heritage Museum Bull Creek Drive, Air Force Memorial Estate, Perth. 08 9311 4470, raafawa.org.au

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WALISTINGS

IN THE SPOTLIGHT

@tnt_downunder

Crown Perth Great Eastern Hwy, Burswood. 08 9362 7777, crownperth.com.au Kings Park & Botanic Garden bgpa.wa.gov.au Moonlight Cinema Synergy Parklan, Kings Park, Perth. moonlight.com.au Perth Mint 310 Hay St. 08 9421 7223, perthmint.com.au Perth Zoo 20 Labouchere Road, South Perth. 08 9474 3551, perthzoo.wa.gov.au Penguin Island 153 Arcadia Drive (corner of Penguin Road), Shoalwater, Perth. 08 9591 1333, penguinisland.com.au Perth Concert Hall 5 St George’s Terr., Perth. 08 9231 9900, perthconcerthall.com.au St Mary’s Cathedral 17 Victoria Square,, Perth. 08 9223 1350, perthcatholic.org.au

PERTH BY BIKE If your travel budget is as tight as Charlize Theron’s jumpsuit in Aeon Flux, but you still want to venture out and explore a unique chunk of Australia, cramming in city sights, wineries, islands and coast all within close proximity, then try exploring Perth by bike. To rent one, try cyclecentre.com.au

St George’s Cathedral 38 St George’s Terrace, Perth. 08 9325 5766, perthcathedral.org The Perth Mint 310 Hay Street,

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Perth. 08 9421 7376, perthmint.com.au The WACA Nelson Crescent, East Perth. 08 9265 7222,, waca.com.au Western Australian Museum James St, 08 9212 3700, museum.wa.gov.au

PERTH MUSIC Amplifier Capital amplifiercapitol.com.au Astor liveattheastor.com.au Belgian Beer Cafe belgianbeer.com.au Perth Arena pertharena.com.au Metro Cityl metroconcertclub.com The Bakery nowbaking.com.au The Ellington Jazz Club ellingtonjazz.com.au The Rosemount Hotel rosemounthotel.com.au The Newport Hotel thenewport.com The Beat Megaclub thebeatmegaclub.com.au Universial Bar universalbar.com.au Ya-Ya’s ya-yas.com.au

FREO STAY Backpackers Inn Freo 11 Pakenham St. 08 9431 7065, backpackersinnfreo.com.au Old Firestation Backpackers 18 Phillimore St. 08 9430 5454, oldfirestation.com.au Sundancer Backpackers Resort 80 High St. 08 9336 6080, sundancerbackpackers.com Pirates Backpackers Resort 11 Essex St. 08 9335 6653, piratesbackpackers.com.au

FREO DO Fremantle Markets Henderson Street Fremantle 08 9335 2515, fremantlemarkets.com.au Fremantle Prison 1 The Terrace. 08 9336 9200, backpackersinnfreo.com.au

fac.org.au Spare Parts Puppet Theatre 1-9 Short St. 08 9335 5044, backpackersinnfreo.com.au

ROTTNEST ISL Rottnest Island YHA Kingstown Barracks. Rottnest Express 1 Emma Place North Fremantle 1300 Go Rotto rottnestexpress.com.au

MARGARET RIVER Margaret River Lodge YHA 220 Railway Tce. Harmony Forest 248 Sebbes Rd. 08 9757 7055, harmonyforest.com.au Surfpoint 12 Riedle Drive Prevally 08 9757 1777 surfpoint.com.au

ALBANY Albany Bayview Backpackers YHA 49 Duke St Cruize-Inn 122 Middleton Rd. 08 9842 9599, cruise-inn.com

MONKEY MIA Monkey Mia Dolphin Lodge Monkey Mia Road 1800 653 611, monkeymia.com.au

NINGALOO REEF Blue Reef Backpackers 3 Truscott Crescent, Exmouth 1800 621 101, aspenparks.com.au Ningaloo Club Coral Bay 08 9948 5100, ningalooclub.com Excape Backpackers YHA Murat Rd, Exmouth.

BROOME STAY Cable Beach Backpackers 12 Sanctuary Road. 1800 655 011, cablebeachbackpackers.com Kimberley Club 62 Fredrick St 08 9192 3233, kimberleyklub.com

CORAL BAY Ningaloo Club Robinson St ningalooclub.com

ESPERANCE

The Shipwreck Galleries Cliff St, 08 9212 3700, museum.wa.gov.au

Blue Waters Lodge YHA 299 Goldfields Rd,

Fremantle Arts Centre 1 Finnerty Street. 08 9432 9555,

Pete’s Exmouth Backpackers YHA Cnr Truscott Cres & Murat Rd

EXMOUTH

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SALISTINGS Vivonne Bay Lodge Kangaroo Island

ADELAIDE STAY

FRE E

WiFi

Vivonne Bay Lodge is in a great central location on the island, close to all the main attractions. Cook your own BBQ by the large deck and enjoy the great indoor and outdoor facilities provided. • Twin, family and dormitory style rooms • Shared bathroom facilities • Well equipped lounge/dining and recreation room • Large undercover deck, bar and BBQ • Complimentary use of bikes and kayaks with 2 night stay • Close to Little Sahara for sand boarding, Raptor Domain, Seal Bay, Hanson Bay Wildllfe Sanctuary and Flinders Chase National Park

Adelaide Backpackers Inn 112 Carrington St. 1800 24 77 25, abpi.com.au Adelaide Central YHA 135 Waymouth St. Adelaide Travellers Inn 220 Hutt St. 08 8224 0753, adelaidebackpackers.com.au Backpack Oz 144 Wakefield St. 1800 633 307, backpackoz.com.au Blue Galah Backpackers Lvl 1, 52-62, King William St. 08) 8231 9295, bluegalah.com.au Glenelg Beach Hostel 5-7 Moseley St. Glenelg. 1800 359 181, glenelgbeachhostel.com.au Hostel 109 109 Carrington St. 1800 099 318, hostel109.com

Call 13 13 01 or visit sealink.com.au

IN THE SPOTLIGHT

My Place 257 Waymouth St. 1800 221 529, adelaidehostel.com.au Shakespeare Hostel 123 Waymouth St. 1800 556 889, shakeys.com.au

ADELAIDE DO Adelaide Oval Home to the Donald Bradman collection. War Memorial Drive. 08 8300 3800 adelaideoval.com.au Adelaide Zoo Frome Rd. 08 8267 3255, zoossa.com.au Haigh’s Chocolates Factory tours. 153 Greenhill Rd, Parkside 1800 819 757, haighschocolates.com.au Temptation Sailing Dolphin swimming, Glenelg. 04 1281 1838 dolphinboat.com.au

VIVONNE BAY LODGE Vivonne Bay Lodge, on Knofel Drive in Vivonne Bay, is located on 206 hectares of bushland, with 1 kilometre of beach frontage and 10 kilometres of sign posted walking and biking trails. Vivonne Bay is situated on the South Coast of Kangaroo Island, and is centrally located to many of Kangaroo Island’s top attractions and activities. Vivonne Bay Lodge is a fantastic choice for your Kangaroo Island accommodation. Kangaroo Island

sealink.com.au/kangaroo-island-accommodation/vivonne-bay-lodge

BAROSSA VAL Barossa Backpackers 9 Basedow Road, Tanunda. 08 8563 0198, barossa backpackers.com.au

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COOBER PEDY Opal Cave Coober Pedy Hutchinson St. 08 8672 5028, opalcavecooberpedy.com. Radeka Down Under 1 Oliver St. 1800 633 891, radekadownunder.com.au Riba’s Underground 1811 William Creek Rd. 08 8672 5614, camp-underground.com.au

KANGAROO IS Kangaroo Island YHA 33 Middle Terrace, Penneshaw. Vivonne Bay Lodge Knoefel Drive, Vivonne Bay 13 13 01 vivonnebaylodge.com.au

RIVERLAND Berri Backpackers Sturt Highway, Berri. 08 8582 3144, berribackpackers.com.au Harvest Trail Lodge Loxton. 08 8584 5646, harvesttrail.com.au Nomads on Murray Sturt Highway, Kingston on Murray. Riverland Backpackers Labour Hire Services 08 8583 0211

FLEURIEU PEN Port Elliot Beach House YHA 13 The Strand, Port Elliot.

EYRE PENINSULA Coodlie Park Farmstay Flinders Highway, Port Kenny. 08 8687 0411 coodliepark.com Baird Bay Ocean Eco Experience Sea lion and dolphin swims. 08 8626 5017 bairdbay.com Calypso Star Charters Great white shark cage diving. 08 8682 3939, sharkcagediving.com.au Port Lincoln Tourist Park 11 Hindmarsh St. 08 8621 4444, portlincolntouristpark.com.au Rodney Fox Shark Expeditions Great white shark cage diving. 08 8363 1788 rodneyfox.com.au

FLINDERS RANGES Angorichina Tourist Village 08 8648 4842, angorichinavillage.com.au Wilpena Pound Resort Wilpena Rd. 08 8648 0004, wilpenapound.com.au

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NZ TRAVEL NZ TRIP | NORTH & SOUTH ISLAND LISTINGS

CARRY ON CAMPING KIWI STYLE Personally I’m more of a ‘glamper’ than a camper. In fact on my list of things to get for my next camping trip, is some new friends who don’t like camping!!! And if I was going to go then you sure as hell wouldn’t get me doing this...But NZ, even I have to say, has it all, if camping IS your thing.

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Road trippin’ Antipodean style Get your motor running, head out on the highwaaaay, and maybe grow an awesome handlebar moustache? Yep it’s time to leave air travel behind, rent a car and hit the road... It’s the only way to REALLY experience New Zealand and Australia! These days, so much travel is all about the destination and getting in and out as quickly as possible. And you can understand that - if you only have limited time off work, you need to fly in, enjoy yourself and then get home in time for the daily grind to begin all over again. There are some destinations however that lend themselves perfectly to an epic road-trip, where the getting-there is as important as the end result. On that sort of trip it really doesn’t matter how long it takes. That’s what a road trip is all about. And guess what? There’s nothing like exploring New Zealand and Australia by road and it is home to some

absolutely spectacular routes, although the road network is not always the best – many are rough, ready and seemingly unending (where’s your sense of adventure?). The must-dos include the Great Ocean Road in Victoria, Queensland’s Savannah Way and the Nullarbor, driving from Adelaide all the way to Perth (it’s an epic!). And the cousins across the Tasman have their fair share of cracking routes as well – but of course, you won’t be able to get your rental car all the way over there (so it’s good job there are loads of NZ hire car companies isn’t it?). From Queenstown, a popular winter hang-out for those keen to smash the slopes,

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ROADTRIP

Milford Sound is a couple of days’ drive away and one of the country’s top attractions. And if you’re on the North Island try Paihia to Auckland. Start your engines...

QUEENSTOWN TO MILFORD SOUND If you’re heading to NZ to make the most of the snow then odds are you’ll be spending a bit of time in Queenstown, the adrenaline-junkies’ playground. But instead of just hunkering down for the whole season, make the circuitous trek to Milford Sound in the Fiordland National Park, which is a Heritage-listed marine reserve and one of New Zealand’s top

tourist destinations. Head south through Kingston and Lumsden – they have rolling pastures and stacks of great fishing spots – and then get round to Mossburn, the deer capital of New Zealand. Then you’re on the road to TeAnau, which is the main jumping-off point for Milford Sound but is a worthwhile destination in its own right. fiordland.org.nz

PAIHIA TO AUCKLAND If you want to, you could complete this circuit of New Zealand’s North Island in under 12 hours but, depending

››

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ROADTRIP

@tnt_downunder

Destination Auckland

on how many stops you want to make and how far off the beaten track you’re prepared to venture, you could string your trip out over week or even a fortnight. Start off in Paihia, sailing, fishing or kayaking and then head around the coast to the Karikari Peninsula, where you can take a tour of New Zealand’s northern-most vineyard. Follow the road west to Awanui, a launching pad for an excursion into the far north. After that, it’s a straight shot down the west coast to Auckland, stopping off at Ninety Mile Beach in Ahipara and Maori enclaves in Kohukohu and Rawene. Also, the Kai Iwi Lakes are great for water skiing and swimming. auckland.com

GREAT OCEAN ROAD Is the Great Ocean Road really that great? Er, YEAH... it’s not called GREAT for nothing! Originally built by returning veterans as a memorial to those who died in WWI, it’s beautiful coastlines make it one of the most photogenic stretches of tarmac on earth and an absolute must-do. Driving south from Melbourne, it takes about an hour to get to Geelong and then you head along the coast to Torquay. Even if it’s too cold for you to take a dip in the ocean (it is winter), there’s still plenty to enjoy and it’s the official start of the Great Ocean Road (as well the unofficial home of the nation’s surfing capital). Torquay oozes cool and you can’t not go to Keanu Reeves, erm, we mean the iconic Bells Beach - sorry, the image of Keanu on a surfboard has been carved 54

into our memory ever since watching Point Break. Well, sort of. You see, Bells is supposedly one of the locations of the movie but it isn’t. The beach at the end where Patrick Swayze rides “the wave” is meant to be Bells, but it was actually filmed in America to save money (tight!). Anyway, get down to this surfing mecca and try and catch a few ways at one of its quality surfing sports, enough to build up an appetite which you can satisfy at Bomboras with a few pizzas (bomboras.com.au) and then celebrate the day’s achievements with a couple beers at Growlers (growlers.com. au), one of the Surf Coast’s favourite waterholes. Down the road in Lorne and Apollo Bay, you’ll find even more unspoiled beaches. Apollo Bay acts as a popular base camp for Great Ocean Road explorers with the Apollo Bay Hotel (apollobayhotel.com.au) naturally taking on the role of HQ. Right in the heart of town, the hotel holds prime position overlooking the bay and is the epitome of an Aussie beachside pub. The al fresco dining area and relaxed indoor bistro serve up authentic pub grub with some Asian alternatives mingling in with the Parmigiana and fishermen’s baskets. With classically simple beer garden decor, the foreshore watering hole needs nothing more than some sunshine and a salty sea breeze to transport you to nevernever land. The route then takes you inland through Otway National Park and lush rainforests. Check out the Otway Treetop Walk (otwayfly.com), a unique attraction which features the 600m

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d r o f l mir l u f t b dou

d n sou o

th ...or bo

Power OR Paddle. Sit back and cruise either Milford or Doubtful Sound in comfort on one of our day cruises OR into the wilderness on one of our guided sea kayak adventures. www.Goorange.co.nz 757 Road Trip.indd 55

info@Goorange.co.nz

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ROADTRIP

@tnt_downunder

The Great Ocean Road

long and 30m high steel structured treetop canopy walkway that enables you to experience the sensation of being high above the forest floor. Once you’re done with the trees, head back on the road for some dramatic cliff landscapes between Princetown and Port Campbell, where you’ll visit the famous rockstars the Twelve Apostles (there are actually nine), the towering limestone stacks off the coast. Check out the fishing village of Port Fairy before heading back towards Melbourne via the Grampians (or you can keep going west and hit up Adelaide). PS, there’s another reason the Great Ocean Road has such a grandiose title – and with little gems spotted along the iconic bitumen – the stunning drive easily turns into the Great Ocean Pub Crawl! visitgreatoceanroad.org.au

THE SAVANNAH WAY This stretches right across the country from Cairns to Broome and is one of Australia’s most intriguing national drives. The 3,700km trip links 15 national parks and five World Heritage area and is recognised as one of Australia’s top 10 drives with a reputation as the “ultimate unique self-drive adventure”. Don’t believe us? Well numbers don’t lie and each year about 40,000 travellers hit The Savannah Way, and about 85% of those are Australians. From Cairns, the tropical rainforests give way to the food bowl of FNQ, Atherton, where you’ll find the Undara National Park (undara.com.au). As you head west you reach 56

Ravenshoe, Queensland’s highest town. We have to tell you to also head to Mt Surprise. It’s a tiny town where you’ll be able to experience the Undara Lava Tubes – the longest and largest lava tubes in the world and a geological wonder providing insights into the ever-changing climate of the past 200,000 years. From there, head to Cobbold Gorge (cobboldgorge.com.au) and try for gold in Georgetown before heading onto Normanton, the home of Krys the 8.63m “King of the Savannah” (actually it’s a statute of Krys, who is the largest recorded saltwater croc ever killed). From Normanton it’s onto the Barramundi capital of Australia, Burketown and then onto the spectacular Katherine Gorge and Katherine, from which you can continue through the Kimberly region and out to Broome or you can head north to Kakadu and Darwin. The choice is yours and probably depends on how much time you have. savannahway.com.au

THE NULLARBOR This one is another epic and you shouldn’t tackle it unless you have at least a week up your sleeve. You can go in either direction but if you’re starting in Adelaide, it’s worth swinging past Port Lincoln before embarking on your excellent adventure, which only officially begins once you leave Ceduna, which is the last of the ‘big towns’ you’ll see before getting across to the other side. Known as the gateway to the Nullarbor Plain, the seaside hamlet offers

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ROADTRIP

@tnt_downunder

THINK ABOUT YOUR WHEELS… Buying a Car/Campervan vs Hiring a campervan or car? Read on and we’ll give you the skinny on it

So, you want to drive across Australia but not sure what do to? First of all, you obviously need wheels and a valid driver’s licence. The ideal, if you have the time and money, is buying a car or camper. However, that can be either the best or worst decision you will make during your travels. Most travellers’ budgets range between $1,000 and $3,500, which is the lowest end of the market, so it can be fraught with danger. Plus you’ll have the hassle of sorting out insurance. If it is a dependable vehicle you are after and don’t fancy that hassle, a rental car is a good bet - and there will be no resale worries. There are rental companies targeting budget travellers in most cities and start from around $40 a day – the longer you hire for, the cheaper it can be. For a bit more money, a campervan allows you to sleep and eat where you like. Enquire about relocation specials. It may mean being at your destination by a specific date, so you lose time to explore, but at what will be a cheaper price you can’t complain. TNT recommends: spaceshipsrentals.co.nz hippiecamper.com wickedcampers.com.au

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The Nullarbor - it’s a whole lotta not much to see... views of the Eyre Peninsula and the Southern Ocean. Stop at the Ceduna Foreshore Hotel (cedunahotel.com. au) for a beer and views of the town’s jetty. From there on, you’ve got a 1209km drive and although you’ll encounter small clusters of houses every few hours, there are no real population centres until you get all the way to Norseman in Western Australia. Indeed, the Nullarbor is a treeless arid expanse and looks like something from Mad Max but that’s a good thing because perhaps the best part of this trip is that no matter where you stop, everyone is up for a chat: They want to know what you’re up to and where you’re headed (most of the people you’ll meet will be backpackers in search of an authentic Australia experience). Take the tiny roadhouse community of Cocklebiddy in WA as an example. It has a population of eight people, 25 budgies, seven quails, a dog and a million kangaroos – brilliant, right? You should also know that almost every service station in the Nullarbor comes with a bar, restaurant and motel rooms for exhausted drivers – and the South Australian ones even have pokies (poker machines). nullarbornet.com.au

TO AVOID DISAPPOINTMENT

Our beds fill up early and clever guests book ahead to secure the best beds and rooms. Those clever guests also know our beds are cheaper as a member. So join YHA now from only NZ$25 and get 10% off accommodation, free WiFi and other great benefits too.

www.yha.co.nz

BOOK YOUR BED AHEAD AND START SAVING NOW!

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Pitch perfect Bust out the swag and dust off that deck of cards, we present you with our favourite camping spots in New Zealand WORDS HUGH RADOJEV

The camping holiday is not necessarily something for everyone. You are either for, or against the camping holiday. Indeed Mother Nature and her great outdoors brook no fence sitters, there is no room for neutral shades in a world of vibrantly coloured foliage, birds and bugs. If you are a fence sitter, or indeed someone for whom the idea of sleeping out under the stars causes your heart rate to quicken and the first quivers of a full blown panic attack to start at the base of your spine, look away now! Go do a cryptic crossword, take some rhubarb to your sullied pots, write a letter to your childhood pen pal or something else interminably dull and boring. This article is for the campers, the outdoorsman, the river waders and nature hikers. Those for whom the five stars found in resorts aren’t worth the millions you can see at night by the light of the fire. For whom a sleeping bag is just as comfortable a place to sleep as any queen sized mattress or four-poster bed. And what place better for it than New Zealand? Be it the North Island or South you are guaranteed to find some of the world’s most beautiful, awe inspiring landscapes. Jagged, snow dusted mountain peaks, verdant green valleys, crystal clear, meandering rivers and deep lakes full of fish. We’ve scoured the length and breadth of New Zealand from Surville Cliffs in the North Cape to Slope Point in the south in search of some of the best campsites, caravan parks and campgrounds where you can pitch your tent. So come gentle readers, strap on your pair of sturdiest walking shoes, fill up your backpack with essentials and make sure your sleeping bag has been properly stuffed, because we’re going camping.

THE SOUTH ISLAND

TOTARANUI ABEL TASMAN NATIONAL PARK Tell me more: This beautiful one kilometer long beach is famous throughout the Tasman region for its golden sands and temperate, mild climates year round. Needless

to say it is a very popular holiday destination for locals and international tourists alike. It is also the final destination of the Abel Tasman Coastal Walk, one of New Zealand’s great hikes. Starting in the coastal town of Maharu, 54kms south, the track winds it way along the area’s beautiful coastline taking in places like Anchorage, Bark Bay and historical Awaroa Lodge over five not too stressful days. If you can’t face the idea of a five-day hike but still want to do a spot of nature walking there are plenty of day long or even shorter walks you can do from the Totaranui campsite. The campsite itself is within a minutes walk of the beach which gives the place its’ name and despite it housing over 850 people during the peak visiting times between December and February you’ll never feel penned in or crowded.

LAKE PEARSON NORTH CANTERBURY Tell me more: Set besides a high country lake in the Waimakariri Basin, the Lake Pearson sight is tiny compared to that at Totaranui or indeed many others, with only 20 or so tents at a time able to properly pitch up alongside one another. The lake though and the surrounding mountains look like something straight out of one of Tolkein’s fantasies, giant dark mossy peaks, jutting ruggedly out of the basin floor like errant, green coloured teeth. While the camp itself is nestled in a long the banks of a river, surrounded by mature willow trees. Very peaceful and serene. It’s also a wonderful spot to fish for rainbow trout and even the odd chinook salmon who have made it down from the Waimakariri River. This is also a popular site for bird watching enthusiasts, keen to catch a glimpse of any number of unique birds. Definitely not the most easily accessible or the best-equipped campsite, but a great place to get yourself a little closer to nature.

LAKE WANAKA QUEENSTOWN Tell me more: A hugely popular spot year round for

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Clockwise: Mavora Lakes; kitesurfing in Kaiteriteri; hiking in Hawkes Bay

adrenalin junkies and nature hikers alike, this is a great base from which to explore the wider Queenstown area. Queenstown is known internationally as one of the great adrenalin sport spots in the world. Here you can endanger yourself personally in any number of different and diverse ways including jet boating, white water rafting, skydiving and of course, bungy jumping. Indeed Queenstown is almost devoted to these kinds of pursuits year round and you can also add great skiing and snowboarding to the list in the winter months. In summer the area around Diamond Lake make for some lovely bush hiking, the lake is beautiful and there are some wonderful walks in that area ranging from anywhere between 40 mins to a full day taking in the rugged mountain tops. There are also a bunch of great climbs for those of you out there who are into their rock climbing.

MAVORA LAKES TE WAHIPOUNAMU Tell me more: Just one of the hundreds of beautiful regions of rugged, untamed wilderness that brought the Middle Earth of J.R.R Tolkein to life in the Lord of the Rings movies. Mavora Lakes consist (as the plural of lake would suggest) of two bodies of water one to the north the other to the south nestled in amongst a breath taking landscape of mountains, lakes, forest and tussocky grassland. One of the best things about Mavora Lakes is the huge amount of activities available to the recreationist: hiking, four wheel driving, boating, fishing, mountain biking, motor biking and even horse riding if you’re into that sort of thing. The best campsite in the area is situated near the southern lake, nestled in amongst rock-topped mountains and a forest of old growth Beech trees. Mavora Lakes is a very popular 62

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spot in the peak months during the summer and as a result booking in advance is encouraged, if not insisted upon. Huts are available to rent out but if you’d rather sleep out under the stars you can pitch a tent there as well.

KAITERITERI CANTERBURY Tell me more: This is definitely one for the camping surfers. Kaiteriteri, located near Nelson in the northern part of the South island is the holiday, beachside destination for people living in Canterbury. Consistently voted as one of the best beaches anywhere in New Zealand the beautiful coastline around Kaiteriteri is also home to one of the country’s best and most consistent breaks. Kaiteriteri also has the distinction of logging the most sunshine hours of anywhere else in the country, which is certainly conducive to the whole surfing/beach bum lifestyle the place tries to promote. However if surfing isn’t your thing there are plenty of other aquatic and non-aquatic activities that’ll keep you endlessly enthralled. The sheltered harbours and inlets along the Tasman region make for easy exploration with a skiff or you can even try your hand at kitesurfing.

NORTH ISLAND (BY JAMES BESANVALLE)

TURIHAUA POINT GISBORNE Tell me more: Turihuana Point is a fantastic freedom camping site in the Gisborne area that’s open during the best time of the year: September to April. Located approximately 16km from the main Gisborne

settlement, park your car or campervan right next to the water and enjoy the panoramic view of the beautiful Pacific Ocean. This area is great for fishing so if you’ve got your rod with you, drop in a line and see what you can catch. The area’s also a great place for swimming and diving, so make sure you grab your “togs” (as the Kiwis say) and jump into the wide blue water. Turihaua Point is one of the East-most parts of New Zealand, so you’ll be waking up to a new day and a new sun that only you and a few local residents will have seen first. As this is a freedom camping site, there are no amenities (which means no fees) so if you want to get in touch with nature, there’s no better place to go.

URETITI BEACH WHANGAREI Tell me more: If you want the whole camping experience, with a few extras included, the Uretiti Beach campsite is for you. Situated on the Uretiti Recreation Reserve, you won’t want to leave the peaceful surrounds, as you get back in touch with nature and your fellow campers. The walk to Bream Bay is so short; you won’t have time to burn your feet on the sand because you’ll already be at the water’s edge! While you’re there, get out your surfboard or just relax in the glistening rays reflected off the bustling waves. Only a 20min drive south, you can walk along the stunning coastal track at Mangawhai Heads. For a little more adventure, explore the nearby Waipu Caves, where you can go caving, climbing or bird and wildlife watching. Head back to the campsite to see the sun set along the beach, as you share a few stories around the campfire and drink to an awesome day.

MOKAU LANDING TE UREWERA NATIONAL PARK Tell me more: Between the Te Urewera National Park and the Mokau Lake, lies the picturesque Mokau Landing. The

Hiking in the Te Urewera National Park

pristine lake shimmers in the sunlight as couples, kids and families frolic in the beautiful water. Be prepared to share the lake with local wildlife from the nearby national park, as nature engulfs every aspect of your life. This grassy site is perfect for a range of different activities, with spacious land for family fun or a lazy afternoon in the sun. A brisk 1.5km walk to the Mokau Falls will leave you breathless (from the spectacular sight, not the walk) as you gaze upon the magnificent 37-metre waterfall. Back at the campsite, there’s a boat ramp, in case you wanted to go for a spin on the water or try your hand at fishing. Set up a campfire, throw back a few beers, share some laughs and enjoy the serenity of this hidden gem. This is the perfect destination for any traveller wanting to find a relaxing spot to unwind – make sure you get there early because there’s only a limited amount of tent sites.

TE PUNGA WANGANUI Tell me more: Located on the banks of the beautiful Whanganui River in Manawatu Te Punga Homestead is a cheap and very comfortable place to pitch a tent under the 100 year old walnut tree and use it as a base for further exploration into the area. The majestic Whanganui offers plenty of activity options including kayaking, swimming and fishing. Indeed it is one of the main kayaking rivers in the country while the fishing is also fantastic along the rivers banks with huge rainbow trout and even eels out there for keen anglers. You can also take Jet Boat tours, which run for four hours out of the nearby township of Pipiriki, and some of the tour providers will even for a small fee run you up or down to either end of the river. There is also one of New Zealand’s Great Walks trails located in the region. The three to four day Matemateaonga Track is considering by some to be one of the country’s best tracks. It’s very remote and perhaps as a result doesn’t attract the same hordes of trampers that so many other of the popular walking tracks do, even during peak seasons. This walk follows an ancient Maori track deep into untouched, undamaged bush land and beautiful inland streams. An absolute must do for all hiking enthusiasts and absolutely beautiful. The homestead itself is a beautiful old heritage listed building, very rustic and quite basic, so you wont feel spoilt or pampered if you chose to stay there too.

Photos: Getty, Tourism New Zealand

HAWKES BAY HASTINGS DISTRICT Tell me more: Known as one of New Zealand’s warmest and driest regions, the areas around Hawkes Bay are hugely popular with campers, hikers and general outdoor enthusiasts year round. Due to the magnificent climate this area is the heartland of New Zealand’s red wine industry, producing Cabernet Sauvingnon and Shiraz of great complexity and weight. One of the most popular and highest recommended activities in this region then is the Classic Wine Trail which can be walked or driven, but in order to get the most out of it we’d recommend hiring a bicycle and packing a little lunch hamper. There are also some lovely forest trails one can walk around Ruahine and Kaweka Forest Parks and a wander down to the seaside will take in the colourfully named Cape Kidnapper. Or if you’re looking for something a bit more adventurous, try rafting down the wild Mohaka river. TNTDOWNUNDER.COM

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In Maori language the city’s name is Tamaki Makau Rau, which translates as “the city of 100 lovers”. Auckland is admired for its cosmopolitan flavour, its sunny harbour for the fact that it makes every other city in NZ feel like a small town.

Auckland Museum See the world’s finest collection of Maori and Pacific Island artefacts. Explore New Zealand’s natural history, discover the largest bird that ever lived and experience a Maori cultural show. 09 309 0443, aucklandmuseum.com

i-SITE Auckland Atrium, skycity, Cnr Federal & Victoria Sts Backpackers World Travel 16-20 Fort St, 09 300 9999, backpackersworld.com i-SITE Visitor Information 287 Queen St, 09 979 2333, aucklandnz.com Ferry Tickets Online (For inter-island ferry services) 39 Beach Rd, 0800 500 660, ferrytickets.co.nz Department of Conservation Auckland Details on tramping, camping grounds, the Gulf Islands and exploring the regional parks. 137 Quay St Cnr, Princes Wharf, open Mon-Fri (9am-5am); SatSun (10am-4pm), 09 379 6476 Airport Transport The airport is 21km from the city and shuttle buses run every half an hour. Airbus Airport is every 20 mins. 0800 247 287, airbus.co.nz City buses Tickets and timetables are available from the 10 central city Star Mart stores. 09 366 6400, maxx.co.nz Auckland InterCity Travel Centre Buses around Auckland and the rest of New Zealand leave from here. Located beside the casino, Hobson St, 09 583 5780, intercity.co.nz Train Intercity trains arrive and depart from Britomart, 12 Queen St, Auckland. 09 366 6400, transdev.co.nz

AUCKLAND STAY Auckland Airport Kiwi Hotel 150 McKenzie Road, Mangere. 09 256 0046, kiwiairporthotel.co.nz Airport Skyway Lodge Backpackers (BBH) 30 Kirkbride Road, Mangere. 09 275 4443, skywaylodge.co.nz Auckland International Backpackers 2 Churton St, Parnell. +64358 4584, aucklandinternationalbp.com

EAGLES NEST BACKPACKERS HOSTEL 937 Victoria St, Hamilton. Dorms from $28 The emphasis here is on providing not just acommodation, but a home away from home. Go Eagles!

Hamilton

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BK Hostel (BBH) 3 Mercury Ln, Central. 09 307 0052 bkhostel.co.nz

Queen Street Backpackers 4 Fort St. 09 373 3471, qsb.co.nz

Borders Beyond 8 Nixon St, Grey Lynn. 09 360 9880, bordersbeyond.co.nz

Uenuku Lodge (BBH) 217 Ponsonby Rd, Ponsonby. 09 378 8990, uenukulodge.co.nz

City Garden Lodge (BBH) 25 St Georges Bay Rd, Parnell. 09 302 0880 citygardenlodge.co.nz

Surf ‘n’ Snow Backpackers 102 Albert St. 09 363 8889, surfandsnow.co.nz

The Fat Camel (Nomads) 38 Fort St. 09 307 0181, nomadsworld.com

Brown Kiwi (BBH) 7 Prosford St, Ponsonby. 09 378 0191, brownkiwi.co.nz

Freemans Backpackers (BBH) 65 Wellington Street. 09 376 5046 freemanbackpackers.co.nz Freinz Backpackers (BBH) 27-31 Vitoria St. East. 09 307 6437 frienz.com Nomads Auckland 16-20 Fort St. 09 300 9999, nomadshostels.com Jandal Palace (BBH) 38 Glenesk Rd, RD2. 09 812 8381, pihabeachstay.co.nz JJ House (BBH) 4 MacMurray Road. 09 214 9791 jjhouse.co.nz

KR City Travellers (BBH) 146 Karangahape Rd. 09 377 6027, kroadcitytravellers.co.nz Verandahs (BBH) 6 Hopetown St. 09 360 4180, verandahs.co.nz YHA Auckland City 18 Liverpool St. 09 309 2802, yha.co.nz YHA Auckland International 5 Turner St. 09 302 8200, yha.co.nz

AUCKLAND DO

Kiwi International Hotel 411 Queen St. 0800 100 411, kiwihotel.co.nz

Explorer Bus Sightseeing around Auckland, 0800 439 756 explorerbus.co.nz

Lantana Lodge (BBH) 60 St Georges Bay Rd, Parnell. 09 373 4546, lantanalodge.co.nz

Sealink Ferries can take you all over the harbour. Info about timetables and destinations are available online on the Sealink website. 0800 732 546, sealink.co.nz

Oaklands Lodge (BBH) 5a Oaklands Rd, Mt Eden. 09 638 6545, oaklands.co.nz

Base Backpackers Auckland 229 Queen St. 09 358 4877, stayatbase.com

Ponsonby Backpackers 2 Franklin Rd, Ponsonby. 09 360 1311, ponsonby-backpackers.co.nz

Bamber House (BBH) 22 View Rd, Mt Eden. 09 623 4267, bamberhouse.co.nz

Princeton Backpackers 30 Symonds St. 09 963 8300, princeton.net.nz

America’s Cup Sailing Experience A unique opportunity to participate as crew on an actual America’s Cup yacht. Take the helm, exert energy on the grinders or simply sit back and enjoy the action as you sail the beautiful Waitemata Harbour. The two hour sails departs daily from the Auckland Viaduct. No

Auckland Zoo See kiwi birds in the nocturnal house and over 900 animals. 09 360 3800, aucklandzoo.co.nz Coast to Coast Walkway A walk between Waitemata Harbour and Manukau Harbour. It takes about four hours and takes in Albert Park, Auckland Uni, Auckland Domain, Mt Eden, and One Tree Hill. Devonport A 15-minute ferry or bus ride across the harbour on the north shore, Devonport is an idyllic setting for a picnic or a stroll along the beach. Kelly Tarlton’s Antarctic Encounter & Underwater World A seawater aquarium with a moving walkway through a transparent underwater cavern. Antarctic Encounter is a recreation of an Antarctic environment where you jump on a snow mobile and tour a penguin colony, get attacked by an orca whale. Orakei Wharf, Tamaki Drive. 0800 80 50 50, kellytarltons.co.nz Mt Eden The highest point in the city, 4km south of the city centre with spectacular views. Get there by bus. NZ National Maritime Museum The museum celebrates NZ’s maritime heritage. 09 373 0800, nzmaritimemuseum.co.nz Ponsonby West of the city, explore Victorian architecture and narrow streets with cafés, bars, clothes shops, art galleries and some lively nightlife.

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cruises to Hauraki Gulf islands, with all-day passes and hop-on, hop-off options. fullers.co.nz 09 367 9111, Pride of Auckland The Pride of Auckland operates an impressive fleet of large, purpose-built yachts on the sheltered waters of Auckland’s Waitemata Harbour and is world famous for its sailing and dining cruises. Join them for a coffee, lunch, dinner, Waiheke sailing experience cruise or a full-day sailing adventure and experience the “City of Sails” for what it is known for. 0800 397 567, exploregroup.net Auckland Bridge Climb Up and over the Auckland Harbour Bridge. Westhaven Reserve, Curran St, Herne Bay. 09 360 7748, bungy.co.nz Auckland Harbour Bridge Jump NZ’s only ocean touch bungy, 40m high. Westhaven Reserve, Curran St, Herne Bay. 09 360 7748, bungy.co.nz Canyonz Ltd Explore subtropical canyons and abseil down crashing waterfalls. 0800 422 696, canyonz.co.nz New Zealand Surf Tours Learn to surf on uncrowded, beautiful beaches. 09 828 0426, newzealandsurftours.com Sky Jump Fall from the top of the 192m Sky Tower, 0800 759 586, skyjump.co.nz Sky Walk Walk around the external 1.2m wide platform, 192m up. 0800 759925, skywalk.co.nz Fullers Bay of Islands Tours One, two and three-day tours from Auckland. fullers.co.nz 09 367 9111, Awesome Adventures Three-day Bay of Islands tours. 0800 658 058, awesomenz.com

Beaches Auckland is surrounded by great beaches, including Judges Queen Street Bay, Kohimarama, Okahu Bay, Auckland’s main boulevard with St Heliers Bay and popular shops, cafés and restaurants. Mission Bay. Whale & Dolphin Safari Aotea Square Markets See whales and dolphins from Every Friday and Saturday at Auckland’s doorstep. The Aotea Square, Queen St. NZ Hauraki Gulf is considered one fashion labels, retro gear, foods, of the most biologically and Pacific-style crafts, jewellery geographically diverse marine and furniture, 09 309 2677, parks in the world. See the-edge.co.nz dolphins, whales, sea birds and/ or even penguins. Dolphins are Victoria Park Market viewed on over 90% and whales 3km from the CBD, an outdoor on 75% of trips. Departs daily market with fruit, veggies, from the Auckland Viaduct. books, clothes and handicrafts. Dolphin viewing guaranteed. 09 357 6032, exploregroup.co.nz GREAT BARRIER Fullers Cruises This unique island destination is Inner harbour cruises and longer dominated by a native forest a

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network of criss-crossing tracks. thebarrier.co.nz Orama Oasis Karaka Bay Rd, 09 429 0063, orama.org.nz Stray Possum Lodge (VIP) Stray Possum Lodge is situated on the beautiful Hauraki Gulf 09 429 0109, straypossum.co.nz

BARRIER DO Fullers Cruises Depart from the Ferry Building. fullers.co.nz 09 367 9111, Great Barrier Airlines Fly out of Auckland Airport or Auckland Shore Airfield. 09 275 6612, greatbarrierairlines.co.nz Fullers Great Barrier Explorers Cruise and tours, summer only (October-April). 09 367 9111, fullers.co.nz

WAIHEKE ISLAND A 35-minute ferry ride from Auckland. It is popular for its long sweeping beaches and craft shops.

WHANGAREI Whangarei I-SITE Visitor Centre 92 Otaika Rd, 09 438 1079 whangareinz.com

WHANGAREI STAY Bunkdown Lodge (BBH) 23 Otaika Road, 09 438 8886, bunkdownlodge.co.nz Coastal Cow Backpackers (BBH) 299 Molesworth Drive, Mangawai Heads 09 431 5246, mangawhaibackpackers.com Little Earth Lodge (BBH) 85 Abbey Caves Road, 09 430 6562, littleearthlodge.co.nz Whangarei Falls Backpacker (BBH) 12 Ngunguru Rd, Whareora, 09 437 0609, whangareifalls.co.nz YHA Whangarei Manaakitanga 52 Punga Grove Ave, 09 438 8954, yha.co.nz

WHANGAREI DO

Hekerua Lodge Backpackers (BBH) 11 Hekerua Rd, Oneroa, 09 372 8990, hekerualodge.co.nz

Dive! Tutukaka Poor Knights Islands dives, plus tours with kayaking, cave explorations, snorkelling, swimming, sea mammalspotting.

Kina Backpackers 421 Seaview Road, Onetangi, 09 372 8971, kinabackpackers.co.nz

PAIHIA

HELENSVILLE The hot springs here have indoor and outdoor thermal pools and waterslides. Malolo House 110 Commercial Rd, 09 420 7262, malolohouse.co.nz

HENDERSON BAY North Wind Lodge Backpackers (BBH) 88 Otaipango Road, RD4, 09 409 8515 northwind.co.nz

HIBISCUS COAST Orewa Beach Hillary Square, Orewa 09 426 2638, orewabeach.co.nz Pillows Backpackers Lodge (BBH) 412 Hibiscus Coast Highway, 0800 426 6338, pillows.co.nz

SAIL ROCK

Paihia is one of the most beautiful towns on the North Island with equal parts love for adventure, nature and a raucous nightlife. AwesomeNZ Tours include Maori mythology, dolphin swimming and fast boats. Maritime Building, on the waterfront, 09 402 7421, awesomenz.com Bay of Islands i-Site The Wharf, Marsden Rd, 09 402 7345, paihia.co.nz

PAIHIA STAY Base Backpackers Bay of Islands 18 Kings Rd 09 402 7111, stayatbase.com Cap’n Bob’s Beach House (BBH) 44 Davis Crescent, 09 402 8668, capnbobs.co.nz Centabay Lodge (BBH) 27 Selwyn Rd, 09 402 7466, centabay.co.nz

Hen & Chickens Island and Sail Rock These offshore areas offer great sailing and diving. Boat trips leave from the area daily.

Admirals View Motel 2 MacMurray Rd, 09 402 6236, admiralviewlodge.co.nz

Waipu Wanderer (BBH) 25 St Marys Rd, 09 432 0532 waipu-hostel.co.nz

Mousetrap (BBH) 11 Kings Rd, 09 402 8182, mousetrap.co.nz

Peppertree Lodge 15 Kings Rd, 09 402 6122, peppertree.co.nz Pickled Parrot Backpackers (BBH) Grey’s Lane, 09 402 6222, pickledparrot.co.nz Saltwater Lodge (BBH) 14 Kings Rd, 09 402 7075, saltwaterlodge.co.nz Seabeds (BBH) 46 Davis Cres, 09 402-5567 seabeds.co.nz

PAIHIA DO Haruru Falls Picturesque falls offering swimming, camping and kayaking opportunities – and a pub! Opua Forest The DOC provides a leaflet of forest walks, which features a small stand of Kauri trees. Drive into the forest via Oromahoe Rd or walk from School Rd. Te Rawhiti Cape Brett Walkway Guided tours include experienced local Maori guides, all meals, hut accommodation, transport by boat to hut taking in the famous Hole in the Rock, Maori culture, myths and legends and hangi, capebrettwalks.co.nz Waitangi Treaty Grounds The site where the historic Treaty of Waitangi was signed. Also see carvings that represent all Maori tribes in NZ and one of the largest ceremonial waka (canoe) in the world, launched every Waitangi Day (Feb 6). 09 402 7437, waitangi.net.nz Boat cruises & dolphin watching Cape Brett “Hole in the Rock” Cruise Four-hour cruises, dolphincruises.co.nz Dolphin Discoveries With the warmest water and friendliest dolphins (bottlenoses), this is a great place for swimming with the dolphins (conditions permitting). The high-speed luxury catamaran offers easy access to the water and hot showers. Or do a “Hole in the Rock and Dolphin Viewing Experience” and see dolphins, whales, birds and other wildlife. Visit Otehei Bay on Urupukapuka Island during your island stop and explore this amazing place. 0800 000 784, exploregroup.co.nz Dune Rider Unique Adventure Tour Make your way up to Cape Reinga while traveling to the Gumdiggers Park and drive along the famous Ninety Mile Beach. Climb huge sand dunes and boogie board back down on the way and stop at the world famous Mangonui Fish Shop for fish and chips. Departing daily from Paihia. exploregroup.co.nz Sale Lion New Zealand: “The Ultimate Day Sail in the Bay”

Join Lion New Zealand, NZ’s legendary maxi yacht. The friendly crew will show you the ropes and share the stories of the Bay and Legend of Sir Peter Blake. 0800 000 784, exploregroup.co.nz

pa on the headland at Matauri Bay. Travellers come here to dive the ship’s wreck.

WHANGAROA This area was once well known for its Kauri forests, but these days it’s more about game fishing. The scenery is ruggedly spectacular and sailing cruises are popular.

Awesome Cape Reinga Via Ninety Mile Beach – learn Maori myths and legends, navigate the quicksand stream, ride the dunes, visit a thousand year old forest. 0800 653 339, awesomenz.com

Tourist info centre Boyd Gallery, 09 405 0230, whangaroa.co.nz

RUSSELL Catch a ferry to Russell, originally a sprawling fortified Maori settlement. Information Centre End of the Pier, Russell 09 403 8020, exploregroup.co.nz

Sunseeker Lodge (BBH) 12 Old Hospital Rd, 09 405 0496, sunseekerlodge.co.nz

KARIKARI PENIN The Rusty Anchor 1 Tokerau Beach Rd, 09 406 7141, rustyanchor.hostel.com

RUSSELL STAY

KAITAIA

Wainui Lodge (BBH) 92D Te Wahapu Rd, 09 403 8278, wainuilodge-russell-nz.com

The ideal starting point for Cape Reinga and Ninety Mile Beach. Pukenui Lodge Hotel (BBH) Cnr SH1 & Pukenui Wharf Rd 09 409 8837, pukenuilodge.co.nz

Ferry Landing (BBH) 395 Aucks Rd, Okiato Point 09 403 7985, ferrylandingrussell.co.nz

Mainstreet Lodge (BBH) 235 Commerce St, 09 408 1275 mainstreetlodge.co.nz

Pipi Patch Backpackers 18 Kings Road, 09 403 7111.

KERIKERI

KAITAIA DO

A highlight of the sparsely populated town is the wonderful Maori village. There is also an historic Maori pa (fortress) and the Kerikeri Mission Station. kerikeri.co.nz

Ancient Kauri Kingdom Giant kauri tree stumps are fashioned into furniture and other trinkets.

KERIKERI STAY Kerikeri Top 10 Holiday Park & Aranga Backpackers Aranga Drive off Kerikeri Rd, 0800 272 642, kerikeritop10.co.nz

Far North Regional Museum Featuring all kinds of goodies, like the skeleton of a giant moa bird and salvages from local shipwrecks. Pack or Paddle Thoms Landing, 09 4098 445, packorpaddle@hotmail.com

AHIPARA

Hideaway Lodge Wiroa Rd, 0800 562 746 kerikeri.co.nz

Kahoe Farms Hostel (BBH) 1266 State Highway 10, 09 405 1804, kahoefarms.co.nz

Hone Heke Lodge (BBH) 65 Hone Heke Rd, 09 407 8170, honeheke.co.nz

Endless Summer Lodge (BBH) 245 Foreshore Rd, 09 409 4181, endlesssummer.co.nz

Relax a Lodge (BBH) 1574 Springbank Rd (SH10) 09 407 6989 relaxalodge.co.nz

AHIPARA DO

MATAURI BAY A very well-kept tourist secret, Matauri Bay is Maori land, home to the Ngati Kura people, and has beautiful, quiet beaches. The Welcome Swallow Backpackers 249 Hikuru Rd, Off Matauri Bay Rd, 09 405 1019, welcomeswallow.com

Tuatua Tours Guided quad tours of Ninety Mile Beach sand dunes. 3 Main Road, 0800 494 288, tuatuatours.co.nz

HOKIANGA

The Rainbow Warrior A monument to the noble but doomed Greenpeace ship, Rainbow Warrior, sits on the site of a Maori

Heading south, you’ll hit Hokianga Harbour and the quiet twin towns of Omapere and Opononi. The Koutu Boulders are worth a look. Hokianga Information 09 405 8869, hokianga.co.nz

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NORTHISLAND HOKIANGA STAY Okopako Lodge (BBH) – Farm Hostel 140 Mountain Rd, Whirinaki, 09 405 8815, homepages.paradise.net. nz/njandlv/

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KAWHIA The main attraction of this peaceful port town, 55km south of Raglan, is the Maketu Marae where you can experience the rich cultural tapestry of NZ’s indigenous history.

Globetrekkers Lodge (BBH) 281 State Highway 12, Omapere, 09 405 8183, globetrekkerslodge.com The Tree House Backpackers Lodge (BBH) 168 West Coast Rd, Motukaraka 09 405 5855, treehouse.co.nz

OTOROHANGA NOMADS FAT CAMEL BACKPACKERS HOSTEL & BAR

DARGAVILLE On the road from Hokianga, the famous “Big Trees”, the native kauri trees of Waipoua Kauri Forest. Once in Dargaville, attractions include the masts from the ill-fated Rainbow Warrior and the fascinating bird sanctuary nearby. Dargaville Info Centre 4 Murdoch St, 09 439 4975, dargaville.co.nz

DARGAVILLE STAY Dargaville Holiday Park 10 Onslow St, 09 439 8296, kauriparks.co.nz

38 Fort St, Auckland. Prices from $22 Offers fun and friendly apartment-style hotel accommodation.

Auckland DOC Office 73, Rostrevor St. 07 858 1000

HAMILTON STAY Backpackers Central 846 Victoria Street, 07 839 1928, backpackerscentral.co.nz

Kaihu Farm 334 State Highway 12, Kaihu, 09 439 4004.

Central Green (BBH) 846 Victoria St, 07 839 1928, backpackerscentral.co.nz

Greenhouse Backpackers (BBH) 15 Gordon St, 09 439 6342, bbh.co.nz

Eagle’s Nest Backpackers 937 Victoria St, 07 838 2704, eaglesbackpackers.co.nz

MATAKOHE Travellers Lodge (BBH) 64 Jellicoe Rd, Ruawai, 09 439 2283, bbh.co.nz Matakohe House B&B Hotel 24 Church Rd, RD1, 0800 492 452, matakohehouse.co.nz

WAIKATO Waikato District Info Centre 160 Great South Rd, Huntly, 07 828 6406, info@waikatodistrict.govt.nz, waikatodistrict.govt.nz Shekinah Farm (BBH) 122 Pungapunga Rd, Pukekawa, 09 233 4464, shekinahbackpackers.co.nz Raglan Kopua Holiday Park Marine Parade, Raglan, 07 825 8283, stay@raglanholidaypark.co.nz, raglanholidaypark.co.nz

Microtel YHA 140 Ulster St, 07 957 1848, microtel.co.nz YWCA Hostel Cnr Clarence & Pembroke St, 07 838 2219, hamilton.ywca.org.nz

HAMILTON DO Waikato Museum of Art & History Cnr Victoria and Grantham Sts. More than 3,000 items, with a permanent Maori War canoe. Gold coin donations welcomed.

MATAMATA Rural town famous for being turned into Hobbiton in those films – some of the set still stands. Hobbiton Movie Set Tours 501 Buckland Rd, Hinuera, 07 888 1505, office@hobbitontours.com

CAMBRIDGE

HAMILTON NZ’s largest inland city and is known for its parks and gardens. Hamilton Visitor Centre Corner Caro and Alexandra St, Hamilton, 07 839 3580 visithamilton.co.nz

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This very Olde English town with its town square and abundance of trees is in the heart of Waikato. The region is famous for its horses and jetboating. Cambridge Info Centre Cnr Queen and Victoria Sts,

07 823 3456 cambridge.co.nz

RAGLAN One of New Zealand’s best-known surfing beaches, Raglan is situated 48km west of Hamilton. Raglan Information Centre 2 Wainui Rd, 07 825 7076, ragland.org.nz

RAGLAN STAY Solscape Eco Retreat Backpackers (BBH) 611 Wainui Rd, 07 825 8268, solscape.co.nz Raglan Backpackers & Waterfront Lodge (BBH) 6 Wi Neera St, 07 825 0515, raglanbackpackers.co.nz Karioi Backpacker Lodge (VIP) & Raglan Surfing School 5 Whaanga Rd, Whale Bay, 07 825 7873, karioilodge.co.nz Dream View Farmstays 430 Te Hutewai Rd, 07 825 8186 dreamview.co.nz Raglan Kopua Holiday Park 61 Marine Parade, 07 825 8283, raglanholidaypark.co.nz Raglan Farmhouse and Flashpackers 61 Marine Parade, 07 825 8747, raglanfarmstay.com

TE AWAMUTU Given that it calls itself the “Rose Town of New Zealand”, it’s not surprising the 2,000-strong Rose Garden is the town’s major attraction. Te Awamutu Info Centre 1 Gorst Ave, 07 871 3259, teawamutuinfo.com

Just 59km south of Hamilton, many travellers use this small farming community as a base for visiting the Waitomo Caves. Otorohanga Visitor Info Centre 27 Turongo St, 07 873 8951, otorohanga.co.nz Otorohanga kiwi House & Native Bird Park 20 Alex Telfer Drive, 07 873 7391, kiwihouse.org.nz

WAITOMO Definitely one of the best adventure spots in New Zealand. There are a range of caving adventures here. Waitomo Caves Discovery Centre 21 Waitomo Caves Rd, 0800 474 839, waitomocaves.com

WAITOMO STAY Juno Hall (BBH) 600 Waitomo Caves Rd, 07 878 7649 junowaitomo.co.nz Kiwi Paka Hotel Caves 256, Access Rd, 07 878 3395 waitomokiwipaka.co.nz Kiwi Cave Rafting (BBH) 95 Waitomo Caves Rd, 07 873 9149, caveraft.com

WAITOMO DO Dundle Hill Walk A two-day walk through native bush; limestone outcrops includes overnight with spectacular views at Kays Cabin. 07 878 7640 dundlehillwalk.com Marakopa Falls, Managapohue Natural Bridge, Piri Piri Cave, 30 minutes drive from Waitomo. Rap Raft ‘n’ Rock Blackwater adventures combining abseiling, rafting, glowworms, caving and rockclimbing all in one five-hour adventure. 0800 228 372, caveraft.com The Legendary Black Water Rafting Co Cave tubing in the blackness of the Ruakuri Cave river. 585 Waitomo Caves Rd, 07 878 6219, waitomo.com

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TE KUITI Te Kuiti Information Centre Rora St, 07 878 8077. Dept of Conservation 78 Taupiri Street, 07 878 1080. Tiffany’s Cafe, 241 Rora St, 07 878 7640

TE KUITI STAY Casara Mesa Backpackers (BBH) Mangarino Rd, 07 878 6697, bbh.co.nz Coromandel Top 10 Holiday Park 636-732 Rings Rd, 07 866 8830, coromandeltop10.co.nz

OTOROHANGA Just 59km south of Hamilton, many travellers use this small farming community as a base for visiting the Waitomo Caves. Otorohanga Visitor Info Centre 27 Turongo St, otorohanga.co.nz

COROMANDEL PEN A series of towns loop around the peninsula, broken by rolling green hills. Highlights include Hot Water Beach, Cathedral Cove and the cosy little Coromandel township.

THAMES A great canyoning spot, with loads of natural pools and waterslides. Information Thames 206 Poland St, 07 868 7284 thamesinfo.co.nz DOC Office Pahau St, 07 867 9180 doc.govt.nz

THAMES STAY Dickson Holiday Park 115 Victoria St, 07 868 7308, Gateway Backpackers (BBH) 209 Mackay St, 07 868 6339, bbh.co.nz Sunkist International Backpackers 506 Brown St, 07 868 8808, sunkistbackpackers.co.nz Te Aroha YHA Hostel Miro Street, Te Aroha (south of Thames), 07 884 8739, yha.co.nz

COROMANDEL Some 55km north of Thames is the town of Coromandel, home to the popular Driving Creek Railway. Coromandel Information Centre 335 Kapanga Rd, 07 866 8598, coromandeltown.co.nz

CORO STAY Anchor Lodge Backpackers (BBH) 448 Wharf Rd,

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07 866 7992, anchorlodgecoromandel.co.nz Black Jack Backpackers Kuaotunu, 07 866 2988, black-jack.co.nz

Fernbird (BBH) 24 Harsant Ave, Hahei, 07 866 3080, bbh.co.nz

Colville Farm (BBH) 2140 Colville Road, Colville, 07 866 6820

On the Beach Backpackers Lodge (BBH, YHA) 46 Buffalo Beach Rd, 07 866 5380, onthebeachbackpackers.co.nz

Mahamudra Retreat Colville Rd, 07 866 6851 mahamudra.org.nz

Seabreeze Holiday Park (BBH) 1043 SH25 Tairua-Whitianga Rd, 07 866 3050

The Pinnacles Backpackers (BBH) 305 Main Road (SH25), 07 864 8448, pinnaclesbakpak.co.nz

Tatahi Lodge (BBH) 9 Grange Rd, Hahei, 07 866 3992, tatahilodge.co.nz

Lions Den (BBH) 126 Te Tiki St, 07 866 8157 ionsdenhostel.co.nz

TAURANGA

Tui Lodge (BBH) 60 Whangapoua Rd, 07 866 8237, coromandeltuilodge.co.nz

One of the fastest growing places in NZ, Tauranga combines a young population with a harbourside atmosphere. Enjoy diving, sailing, fishing and surfing.

Tairua Backpackers (BBH) 200 Main Road, 07 864 8345, tairuabackpackers.com

OPOUTERE This is a good place to go to just chill out. The beach here is glorious and generally empty. Skinny dip anyone? YHA Opoutere 389 Opoutere Rd, 07 865 9072, yha.co.nz

WHANGAMATA A real surfie town, Whangamata has one of the best surf beaches in New Zealand and a laidback atmosphere to match. Whangamata Info Centre 616 Port Rd, 07 865 8340 Southpacific Accommodation 245 Port Rd, 07 865 9580, thesouthpacific.co.nz NZ Surf n Stay (BBH) 227 Beverley Tce, 07 865 8323 whangamata-backpackers.co.nz

WHITIANGA Whitianga, perched on pretty Mercury Bay, is the most popular stop-off point for travellers on the Coromandel. You can learn to make your very own bone carving, dive and surf to your heart’s content.

Tauranga i-site 95 Willow St, 07 578 8103 bayofplenty.co.nz Department of Conservation 253 Chadwick Rd West, 07 578 7677

TAURANGA STAY Apple Tree Backpackers (BBH) 47 Maxwell Rd, 07 576 4001 appletreebackpackers.co.nz Harbourside City Backpackers 105 The Strand, 07 579 4066, backpacktauranga.co.nz Bell Lodge (BBH) 39 Bell St, Judea, 07 578 6344, bell-lodge.co.nz Just The Ducks Nuts Backpackers 6 Vale St, 07 576 1366, justtheducksnuts.co.nz Kingfisher Backpackers Lodge (BBH) 122b Word Road, 07 552 0388, kingfisher-backpack.co.nz Loft 109 (BBH) 8/109 Devonport Rd, 07 579 5638, loft109.co.nz

Whitianga Information Centre 118 Oceanview Rd, 09 372 1234 whitianga.co.nz

Pacific Coast Lodge 432 Maunganui Road, Mount Maunganui Beach, 0800 666 622 / +64 7574 9601, pacificcoastlodge.co.nz

Baywatch Backpackers (VIP) 22 The Esplanade, 07 866 5481, whitianga.co.nz/baywatch

Seagulls Guesthouse (BBH) 12 Hinau Street, 07 574 2099, seagullsguesthouse.co.nz

Cathedral Cove Lodge 41 Harsant Ave, Hahei Beach, 07 866 3889, cathedralcove.co.nz

Tauranga Central Backpackers 64 Willow St, 07 571 6222, tgabackpack.co.nz

Cat’s Pyjamas Backpackers (BBH) 12 Albert St, 07 866 4663, cats-pyjamas.co.nz

YHA Tauranga 171 Elizabeth St, 07 578 5064, yha.co.nz

TAURANGA DO Waimarino Adventure Park 07 576 4233, waimarino.com Coyote Bar and Restaurant 107 The Strand, 07 578 8968.

TE PUKE Te Puke Information Centre 130 Jellicoe St, 07 573 9172 tepuke.co.nz

TE PUKE STAY Hairy Berry Backpacker Hostel 2 No One Rd, Te Puke, 07 573 8015, work@hairyberrynz.com Kiwi Corral Backpackers 26 Young Road, 07 573 4530, kiwicorral.co.nz Blue Tide Beachfront Retreat 7 Te Awhe Rd, Maketu Beach, 07 533 2033, bluetides.co.nz

TE PUKE DO Kiwifruit Country Young Rd, 07 573 6340, kiwifruitcountry.co.nz Gotcha Paintball, 720 State Highway 33, Paengaroa, 022 649 1158

WHAKATANE For a very different adventure, visit White Island, an active volcano where sulphur-lipped fumeroles and roaring steam vents create a stark wonderland. whakatane.com Karibu Backpackers (BBH) 13 Landing Rd, 07 307 8276 Otapawa Farmstay (BBH) 255 Haunui Road, 06 376 7250 otapawafarmstay.co.nz/ backpackers

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ROTORUA Rotorua is a must for three reasons: the abundance of accessible Maori culture, the steaming volcanic scenery and adrenalin thrills. Tourism Rotorua & Visitor Info Centre 1167 Fenton St, 07 348 5179 rotoruanz.com

ROTORUA STAY Astray Motel & Backpackers (BBH) 1202 Pukuatua St, 07 348 1200, astray.co.nz Base Backpackers Rotorua 1286 Arawa St, 07 348 8636, stayatbase.com Blarney’s Rock Backpackers 1210 Tutanekai St, 07 343 7904, blarneysrock.com Cactus Jack Backpackers 1210 Haupapa St, 0800 122 228 cactusjackbackpackers.com Crash Palace Backpackers 1271 Hinemaru St, 07 348 842, crashpalace.co.nz Funky Green Voyager (BBH) 4 Union St, 07 346-1754, funkygreenvoyager.co.nz Kiwipaka 60 Tarewa Rd, 07 347 0931, kiwipaka.co.nz Planet Nomad Backpackers 1080 Eruera St, 07 350 2550, rotoruaplanetbackpackers.co.nz Oasis Hostel/Backpackers 33A Tarewa Rd, 07 343 6563, oasishostel.co.nz

Whakatane Hotel 79 The Strand, 07 307 1670

Rotorua Central Backpackers (BBH) 1076 Pukuatua St, 07 349 3285, rotoruacentralbackpackers.co.nz

The Windsor 10 Merritt St, Whakatane, 07 308 8040, windsorlodge-backpackers.co.nz

Rotorua Downtown Backpackers (BBH) 1193 Fenton St, 07 347 1170, rotorua-backpackers.co.nz

WHAKATANE DO Dive White 168 The Strand, 0800 348 394, divewhite.co.nz White Island Tours Departs Whakatane daily. 15 The Strand. 07 308 9588 whiteisland.co.nz

hellsgate.co.nz Kaitiaki Adventures Extreme whitewater activities. Sledging and rafting trips on the Kaituna and Rangitaiki Rivers, 0800 338 736, kaitiaki.co.nz Off Road NZ Sprint car racing, Monster 4X4, 4WD Bush Safari and more, 07 332 5748, offroadnz.co.nz Polynesian Spa Historical hot mineral water bathing spa on the edge of Lake Rotorua, 07 348 1328, polynesianspa.co.nz Raftabout Whitewater rafting and sledging, 0800 723 822, raftabout.co.nz Skyline Skyrides Spectacular Get the best views and luge down 5km of tracks, or take the 150ft skyswing, 07 347 0027, skylineskyrides.co.nz Waikite Hot Pools Natural hot spring water bathing. Provides private spas, BBQ area and campground facilities, 20 minutes south of Rotorua. hotpools.co.nz Waimangu Volcanic Valley The location of the Pink and White Terraces which were destroyed in the 1886 volcanic eruption. waimangu.co.nz Wet ‘n’ Wild Rafting Guided rafting options on five different rivers – the Wairoa, Rangitaiki, Kaituna, Motu and Mohaka, 0800 462 7238, wetnwildrafting.co.nz Zorb Rotorua Get harnessed inside the perspex Zorb before rolling head-over-heels downhill, 07 357 5100, zorb.com

MAORI CULTURE

Spa Lodge Backpackers (BBH) 1221 Amohau Street, 07 348 3486, spalodge.co.nz

While you’re here, take the opportunity to see how the Maori lived before European settlment. The Maori Arts and Crafts Institute in Whakarewarewa is a good place to begin . nzmaori.co.nz.

YHA Rotorua 1278 Haupapa St, 07 349 4088, yha.co.nz

NZ Maori Arts & Crafts Institute 07 348 9047 tepuia.com

Roquette Restaurant & Bar 23/29 Quay St. 07 307 0722

Agroventures Five adrenalin activities in one adventure park, including bungy jumping, sprint boats and a wind tunnel. 1335 Paradise Valley Rd. 07 357 4747, agroventures.co.nz

Tamaki Maori Village New Zealand’s Most Awarded Cultural Experience! Experience an evening of ceremonial ritual, powerful cultural performance, storytelling & hangi feasting. Hinemaru St, 07 349 2099 tamakimaorivillage.co.nz

Wallys on the Wharf 2 The Strand, 07 307 0722,

Hell’s Gate Mud baths to heal and stimulate your body

Whakarewarewa Thermal Village Maori village set amidst a

The Wharf Shed Restaurant 2/2 The Strand E. 07 308 5698

ROTORUA DO

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NORTHISLAND landscape of geothermal wonders. Take a guided tour, see a cultural performance, check out Maori art. 07 349 3463, whakarewarewa.com

LAKE TAUPO Taupo Visitor Centre 30 Tongariro St, 07 376 0027, greatlaketaupo.com

TAUPO STAY Berkenhoff Lodge 75 Scannell St, 07 378 4909, berkenhofflodge.co.nz Blackcurrant Backpackers (BBH) 20 Taniwha St, 07 378 9292, blackcurrantbp.co.nz Rainbow Lodge 99 Titiraupenga St, 07 378 5754, rainbowlodge.co.nz Finns Global Backpackers 8 Tuwharetoa St, 07 377 0044, finnsglobal.co.nz Wairakei Lodge State Highway, 0800 737 678, budgetaccommodation taupo.co.nz Sportsman Lodge Backpackers Retreat 15 Taupahi Rd, 0800 366 208, sportsmanslodge.co.nz Base Taupo 7 Tuwharetoa St, 07 377 4464, stayatbase.com Taupo Urban Retreat 65 Heu Heu St, 0800 872 261, tur.co.nz Tiki Lodge 104 Tuwharetoa St, 0800 845 456, tikilodge.co.nz YHA Taupo 56 Kaimanawa St, 07 378 3311, yha.co.nz Silver Fern Lodge 118 Tamamutu St, 07 377 4929, silverfernlodge.co.nz Lake Maraetai Lodge 5 Totara Terrace, 07 882 8940, lake-maraetai-lodge.co.nz

TAUPO DO Craters of the Moon One of the most geothermally active areas in the region, full of boiling mud and steaming craters. Wairakei Park. cratersofthemoon.co.nz Huka Falls Take a relaxing walk up to Huka Falls where the water pours over the 35ft drop at up to

62,000 gallons per second. hukafalls.com Hukafalls Jet Jetboating by the falls, 0800 485 2538, hukafallsjet.com Rock ‘n’ Ropes Ropes Courses including the trapeze and Giant Swing. At Crazy Catz on Highway 5. 0800 244 508, rocknropes.co.nz Taupo Bungy Bungy from a platform 47m above the Waikato River. 202 Spa Rd. 0800 888 408, taupobungy.com Tongariro Crossing Transport and National Park Links From Taupo and Turangi during summer months (NovMay). 07 377 0435, thetongarirocrossing.co.nz Taupo Tandem Skydiving Skydive from up to 15,000 feet (over one minute freefall). Free shuttle, DVD and digital photos. Yellow Hangar, Taupo Airport. 0800 275 934, taupotandemskydiving.com

TURANGI On the southern shores of Lake Taupo, Turangi is known as the trout fishing capital of the world. It offers heaps of outdoor adventure activities and is a good base for venturing into the Tongariro National Park. Turangi Visitor Centre Tongariro St, 07 376 0027, turangi.co.nz

TURANGI STAY A Plus Samurai Lodge (BBH) 41 Iwiheke Place, 07 386 8979, tongariro-hostel.co.nz Asure Parklands Motorlodge Cnr Arahori St & State Hwy 1, 07 386 7515, parklandsmotorlodge.co.nz Extreme Backpackers (BBH) 26 Ngawaka Place, 07 386 8949, extremebackpackers.co.nz Judges Pool Motel 92 Taupahi Rd, 07 386 7892, judgepoolmotel.co.nz

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TONGARIRO

Mokai Gravity Canyon Extreme flying fox, bridge swing and bungy jump. 0800 802 864

Adventure Lodge & Motel (VIP) Carroll Street, National Park, 07 892 2991, adventurenationalpark.co.nz

River Valley Rafting and horse trekking. 06 388 1444, thelodge@rivervalley.co.nz

turangiholidaypark.co.nz

The Crossing Backpackers Erua Rd East, 07 892 2894, thecrossingbackpackers.co.nz daKune Lodge (BBH) 42 Park Ave, Ohakune 06 385 8448, dakunelodge.co.nz Howards Mountain Lodge (BBH) 43 Carroll St, National Park, 07 892 2827, howardslodge.co.nz Skotel Alpine Resort Whakapapa Village, 07 892 3715, skotel.co.nz National Park Backpackers YHA (BBH) 4 Findlay St. The hostel runs transport to the Tongariro Crossing, 07 892 2870, npbp.co.nz Pipers Lodge 18 Millar St, National Park Village, 07 8922 777, piperslodge.co.nz Plateau Lodge 17 Caroll St, National Park Village, 07 8922 993, plateaulodge.co.nz Ski Haus (BBH) Carroll St, McKenzie St, 07 892 2854, skihaus.co.nz Station Lodge (BBH) 60 Thames Street, The Junction, Ohakune, 06 385 8797, stationlodge.co.nz

MT RUAPEHU The park’s showcase is Mt Ruapehu, an active volcano towering at 2,796m. Ruapehu Visitors’ Centre 54 Clyde St, 06 385 8427 visitruapehu.com Whakapapa Visitor Centre SH 48, Whakapapa Village, 07 892 3729 visitruapehudc.govt.nz

RANGITIKEI

The Lazy Dog (BBH) 3 Rangipoia Place, 07 386 0317, lazydogbackpackers.co.nz

The Rangitikei District is a top destination for adventure sports. Amongst stunning scenery, you can navigate grade five whitewater and take the leap of elasticated faith from an 80m bungy.

Riverstone Backpackers (BBH) 222 Tautahanga Rd, 07 386 7004, riverstonebackpackers.com

Rangitikei Farmstay 422 Makuhou Rd, 06 327 4495, rangitikeifarmstay.govt.nz

Settlers Motel 24 Arahori St, 07 386 7745, settlersmotelturangi.co.nz Turangi Kiwi Holiday Park 13 Te Reiti Tamara Grove, 07 386 8754,

River Valley Dorms Makuhou Rd 06 388 1444, rivervalley.co.nz

RANGITIKEI DO

OPOTIKI Opotiki Information Centre Cnr St John and Elliot Sts, 07 315 3031 opotikinz.com Central Oasis Backpackers 30 King St, 07 315 5165, centraloasis@hotmail.com Fruit Forest Studio 197 Omarumutu Rd, 07 315 8143, fruitforest.co.nz Opotiki Beach House (BBH) 7 Appleton Road, 07 315 5117 opotikibeachhouse.co.nz

EAST CAPE As you head around the Cape the towns get tinier and the scenery more dramatic. At Te Araroa, you can thead around to the East Cape Lighthouse. Maraehako Bay Retreat SH35, Whanarua Bay, 07 325 2648. maraehako.co.nz Stranded in Paradise (BBH) 21 Potae Street, 06 864 5870, stranded-in-paradise.net Wainui Beach Motel 34 Wairere Rd, 06 868 5882, wainuibeachmotel.co.nz

GISBORNE Flying Nun Backpackers (BBH) 147 Roebuck Rd, 06 868 0461, flynun.co.nz YHA Gisborne 32 Harris St, 06 867 3269, yha.co.nz

WAIROA Wairoa Visitor Information Centre Queen St, 06 838 7440 Haere Mai Cottage (BBH) 49 Mitchell Rd, 06 838 6817 DOC office for hut bookings Lake Waikaremoana, 06 837 3900

NAPIER Napier is a beautiful, surprising city. Its “pleasing to the eye” status is actually the result of an enormous earthquake which meant the entire town had to be rebuilt.

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NAPIER STAY Aqua Lodge (BBH) 53 Nelson Cres, 06 835 4523, bbh.co.nz Archie’s Bunker (BBH) 15 Herschell Street, 06 833 7990, archiesbunker.co.nz The Art House (BBH) 259 Marine Parade, 06 835 5575, arthousenapier.co.nz Blue Water Lodge (BBH) 471 Marine Parade, 06 835 8593, arthousenapier.co.nz Criterion Art Deco Backpackers (VIP, Roamfree) - (BBH) 60 Whangapoua Rd, 07 866 8237, coromandeltuilodge.co.nz 48 Emerson St, 06 835 2059, criterionartdeco.co.nz Stable Lodge Backpackers (BBH) 370 Hastings Street, 06 835 6242, bluewaterlodge.co.nz Toad Hall Backpackers (BBH) 11 Shakespeare Road, 06 835 5555, toadhall.co.nz Waterfront Lodge & Backpackers 217 Marine Pd, 06 835 3429, napierbackpackers.co.nz YHA Napier 277 Marine Parade, 06 835 7039, yha.co.nz

HASTINGS Hastings is 20km south of Napier and most notable for its fertile plains, which have given birth to a multitude of beautiful parks, gardens and farms. A1 Backpackers (BBH) 122 Stortford St, 06 873 4285, a1backpackers.co.nz Glenross Lodge (BBH) Route 52, Rakaunui, 06 376 7288, tararua.net/glenross Lochlea Farmstay 344 Lake Rd, Wanstead, +6468554816 The Rotten Apple Backpackers (BBH) 114 Heretaunga St, 06 878 4363, rottenapple.co.nz AJ’s Backpackers Lodge (BBH) 405 Southland Rd, 06 878 2302, ajs.backpackerslodge.co.nz

TARANAKI Best known for its snow-capped mountain, Mt Taranaki. Peaceful and impressive, Taranaki has skifields, excellent surf beaches, great walking and climbing.

Visitor Info Centre 100 Marine Parade, 06 834 1911

MOKAU

Depart of Conservation Office Marine Parade, 06 834 3111

Palm House Backpackers taranaki-bakpak.co.nz

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The nation’s capital is to many people, New Zealand’s most interesting city.

WELLY DO Cable car Walk down Lambton Quay and you will see a sign for the cable car which departs every 10 minutes past Kelburn Park to the Botanic Gardens, 04 472 2199

Wellington Visitor Info Centre Corner of Victoria & Wakefield Sts, 04 802 4860, wellingtonnz.com DOC Information Centre 18 Manners St, 04 384 7770 Ferry to the South Island Boats to Picton on the South Island. Ferries can be booked up well in advance in holiday periods. Ferry Tickets Online 186 Victoria St, 0800 500 660, ferrytickets.co.nz

Zealandia Many of New Zealand’s rarest birds, reptiles and insects are living freely in this awardwinning conservation safe haven. Look for kiwis on a guided tour by torchlight. Times vary and bookings are essential. Waiapu Rd, Karori. 04 920 9200, visitzealandia.com

WELLY STAY Barnacles Seaside Inn (BBH) 3 Marine Parade. 04 902 5856 seasideyha.co.nz

SURF ‘N’ SNOW BACKPACKERS 102 Albert St, Auckland. Dorms from $24 Set just across from Auckland’s Sky Tower, Surf ‘n’ Snow Backpackers offers good accommodation at even better prices. Auckland surfandsnow.co.nz

NEW PLYMOUTH Taranaki’s major town is New Plymouth. One of NZ’s finest art galleries is here (the GovettBrewster Art Gallery). It hosts a great café. Department of Conservation 55A Rimu Street, 06 759 0350 New Plymouth Info Centre Puke Ariki, 65 St Aubyn Street, 06 759 0897, visitnewplymouth.co.nz

PLYMOUTH STAY EcoInn (BBH) 671 Kent Rd, between Egmont Village and New Plymouth on SH3. 06 752 2765 ecoinnovation. co.nz/t-Accommodation.aspx Egmont Lodge (BBH, YHA) 12 Clawton St, 06 753 5720, yha.co.nz bbh.co.nz Seaspray House (BBH) 13 Weymouth St, 06 759 8934, seasprayhouse.co.nz

Stratford Heritage Lodge 103 Miranda St, 06 765 7482, eastern-taranaki.co.nz

Hikurangi Stay Place 1 Mount View Road, 06 343 333 stayplace.co.nz

Taranaki Accommodation Lodge (BBH) 7 Romeo St, Stratford, 06 765 5444, info@mttaranakilodge.co.nz

YHA Whanganui 2 Plymouth St, 06 348 2301, yha.co.nz

TARANAKI DO Climbing Mount Taranaki It is possible to climb it and return to civilisation in one day, however the weather is notoriously volatile and you must always notify the DOC.

STRATFORD Stratford Information Centre Broadway Stratford (State Hwy 3), 06 765 6708, stratford.govt.nz Department of Conservation Pembroke Rd, 06 765 5144

SOUTH TARANAKI

Ducks & Drakes Backpackers (BBH) 48 Lemon St, 06 758 0404 ducksanddrakes.co.nz

Information South Taranaki 55 High St, Hawera, 0800 111 323, southtaranaki.com

Sunflower Lodge (BBH) 33 Timandra St, 06 758, 2842 sunflowerlodge.co.nz

Wheatly Downs Farmstay Backpackers (BBH) 484 Ararata Rd, Hawera, 06 278 6523, mttaranaki.co.nz/retreat/ wheatly_downs_farmstay/

PLYMOUTH DO Brooklands Zoo Brooklands, New Plymouth, 06 759 6060, info@npdc.govt.nz

MT TARANAKI

WHANGANUI College House 42b Campbell Street, 021 852 100 42b.co.nz

Tamara Backpackers Lodge (BBH) 24 Somme Pde, 06 347 6300, tamaralodge.com Whanganui National Park The major attraction is the Whanganui River, snaking through picturesque scenery. Explore with a kayak or riverboat tour. Wanganui Information Centre 31 Taupo Quay, Whanganui, 06 349 0508, wanganui.com Department of Conservation Office 74 Ingestre St, 06 348 8475

PALMERSTON NTH Palmerston North Visitor Centre The Square, 06 350 1922, manawatunz.co.nz Department of Conservation Office 717 Tremaine Ave, 06 350 9700 Grandma’s Place (BBH) 146 Grey St, 06 358 6928, grandmas-place.com Pepper Tree Hostel (BBH) 121 Grey St, 06 355 4054, peppertreehostel.co.nz

WELLINGTON

Base Wellington 21-23 Cambridge Tce. 04 801 5666 stayatbase.com

Mount Victoria The views are breathtaking. It’s damn windy so make sure you’re wearing heavy shoes. Walk, drive or bus it.

Cambridge Hotel (BBH) 28 Cambridge Tce. 04 385 8829, cambridgehotel.co.nz

Museum of Wellington City & Sea Queens Wharf, 04 472 8904

Hotel Waterloo & Backpackers (BBH) 1 Bunny St. 04 473 8482 hotelwaterloo.co.nz Lodge in the City (BBH) 152 Taranaki St. 04 385 8560 lodgeinthecity.co.nz Moana Lodge (BBH) 49 Moana Road. 04 233 2010 lmoana-lodge-accommodation. co.nz Wellywood Backpackers 58 Tory St, 04 381 3899, wellywoodbackpackers.co.nz Nomads Capital 118/120 Wakefield St. 0508 666 237, nomadscapital.com

The Setup (BBH) Level 3/15, Dixon Street, Te Aro 04 802 4779 setupdixon.co.nz

YHA Wellington City 292 Wakefield St. 04 801 7280 yha.co.nz

Te Papa – The National Museum Experience the earthquake simulation room, find out what the early settlers went through and visit Te Marae, Te Papa’s living modern marae. Free entry, Cable St, 04 381 7000, tepapa.govt.nz

Harbour cruises The harbour is a handsome thing and the best way to fully appreciate its beauty is by boat.

Rowena’s Lodge 115 Brougham St. 04 385 7872, wellingtonbackpackers.co.nz

Worldwide Backpackers (BBH) 291 The Terrace. 04 802 5590, worldwidenz.co.nz

Parliament House Free tours. Visit the Beehive, a uniquely designed centre of government with a distinct style of architecture, 04 471 9503

Wellington Zoo Located in Newtown and home to a wide variety of weird and wonderful animal and bird life, 04 381 6755

Rosemere Backpackers (BBH) 6 MacDonald Crescent. 04 384 3041, backpackerswellington.co.nz

Wild Zebra Backpackers (BBH) 58 Tory Street. wellingtonbackpacker.com

Cosmic Corner Funk Store The funkiest store in the universe. Check out the legal highs and chat to the staff, who will happily point you in the right direction for parties, events and scenic spots. 215 Cuba St, 04 801 6970, cosmiccorner.co.nz

Wellington Rover Tours Small group day tours exploring Wellington, its stunning rugged coastline and the Lord of the Rings locations. 021 426 211, wellingtonrover.co.nz Beaches Wellington’s waterfront has cafés, restaurants and parks. Oriental Bay is good for a dip, but the water is cold and not always clean. It’s also good for a walk along the foreshore. If you are desperate for a swim, Scorching Bay is good or head up the coast towards Otaki where the best beaches in the region are found.

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SOUTHISLAND ABEL TASMAN The Abel Tasman National Park has great tramping with 56,000 acres to explore. The Coastal Track is one of the most popular walks in New Zealand, especially in summer when you can cool down at the stunning beaches. Nelson, Motueka and Marahau are all good bases for visiting the park. Sea kayaking is excellent here too.

ABEL DO Wilsons Abel Tasman Sea kayaking, water taxis and lodge accommodation. 03 528 2027, abeltasman.co.nz Abel Tasman Kayaks Ltd 0800 527 8022 abeltasmankayaks.co.nz

NELSON Nelson is seen as the “sunshine capital” of NZ. Home to a string of attractive beaches, Nelson is only a short drive away from the famous Abel Tasman National Park. The town boasts great cafés and a strong artistic subculture. Nelson’s great climate is conducive to fruit growing and travellers can find plenty of work in the area. Nelson Visitor Centre Cnr Trafalgar & Halifax St, 03 548 2304, nelsonnz.com Airport Shuttle supershuttles.co.nz Nelson City Taxis 03 548 8225

NELSON STAY Abba Lodge (BBH) 11 Awaroa Bay, 03 528 8758, abbalodge.co.nz Amber House B&B 46 Weka St, 021 202 4961, amberhouse.co.nz Accents on the Park (BBH/VIP) 335 Trafalgar Square. 03 548 4335, accentsonthepark.com Almond House (BBH) 63 Grove St. 03 545 6455, almondbackpackers.co.nz Alpine Lodge St Arnaud. 03 521 1869, alpinelodge.co.nz Aurora Backpackers (BBH) 161-163 Trafalger Square. 03 929 5553, aurorabackpackers.co.nz Beach Hostel (BBH) 25 Muritai St. 03 548 6817, nelsonbeachhostel.50megs.com The Bug (BBH) 226 Vanguard St. 03 539 4227 thebug.co.nz Villa by the Sea (BBH) 252 Haven Rd. 03 545 8365, villabythesea.co.nz Footprints by the Sea 31 Beach Rd, Tahuna Beach. 03 546 5441,

footprints.co.nz Tramways Hotel Nelson 66 Trafalgar St, 03 548 7049, tramwayshotel.co.nz Honey Suckle House (BBH) 125 Tasman St. 03 548 7576 honeysucklehouse. weebly.com/ Hu Ha Bikerpackers (BBH) State Highway 6, Glenhope. 03 548 2707, bbh.co.nz The Palace Backpackers (BBH) 114 Rutherford St. 03 548 4691, thepalace.co.nz Paradiso (BBH) 42 Weka St. 0800 269 667, backpackernelson.co.nz The Prince Albert Backpackers (BBH) 113 Nile St. 03 548 8477 theprincealbert.co.nz Courtesy Court Motel 26/30 Gold Rd, 03 548 5114, courtesycourt.co.nz The Honesy Lawyer Country Pub 1 Point Rd, Monaco, 03 547 4070, honestlawyer.co.nz Shortbread Cottage (BBH) 33 Trafalgar St. 03 546 6681 shortbreadcottage.co.nz Tasman Bay Backpacker Hostel (BBH) 10 Weka St. 03 548 7950, tasmanbaybackpackers.co.nz Trampers Rest (BBH) 31 Alton St. 03 545 7477 Idesia B&B 14 Idesia Grove, Richmond, 03 544 0409 YHA Nelson 59 Rutherford St, 03 545 9988, yha.co.nz

NELSON DO Abel Tasman Kayaks Ltd 0800 527 8022 abeltasmankayaks.co.nz Happy Valley 4x4 Motorbike Adventures Tours around spectacular private farm on chunky fourwheel motorbikes. 03 545 0304, happyvalleyadventures.co.nz Kaiteriteri kayaks Transport from Nelson. 03 527 8383, seakayak.co.nz Skydive Abel Tasman Tandem jumps from 13,000ft over Abel Tasman. 0800 422 899, skydive.co.nz

NELSON LAKES Located 118km south-west of Nelson, the park comprises Lake Rotoroa and Lake Rotoiti, and is surrounded by forests and mountains. Apart from tramping and skiing at Rainbow Valley and Mt Robert in winter, the lakes offer fishing and other water activities.

BOOK NOW! MOTUEKA This is an alternative hang-out for creative types and those seeking to veer off life’s fast lane. Most people use Motueka as a base to launch an assault on Abel Tasman National Park, but if you take the time to look around your efforts will be well rewarded. Try Marahau Beach and Cobb Valley. Motueka i-SITE Visitors Centre 20 Wallace St, 03 528 6543, motuekaisite.co.nz

MOTUEKA STAY Happy Apple 500 High St, 03 528 8652, happyapplebackpackers.co.nz Avalon Manor Motels 314/316 High St, 0800 282 566 avalonmotels.co.nz Eden’s Edge Backpackers (BBH) 137 Lodder Lane, Riwaka. 03 528 4242, edensedge.co.nz Motueka Garden Motel 71 King Edward St, 0800 101 911, motmotel.co.nz Hat Trick Lodge Backpackers (BBH) 25 Wallace St. 03 528 5353, hattricklodge.co.nz Laughing Kiwi (BBH) 310 High St. 03 528 9229, laughingkiwi.co.nz Old Macdonald’s Farm Holiday Park 03 527 8288, oldmacs.co.nz The White Elephant (BBH) 55 Whakarewa St. 03 528 6208, whiteelephant.co.nz Equestrian Lodge Motel 2 Avalon Ct, 03 528 9369

MOTUEKA DO Wilsons Abel Tasman 265 High St, 03 528 2027, abeltasman.co.nz Abel Tasman Kayaks Ltd 0800 527 8022 abeltasmankayaks.co.nz

TAKAKA Known as the “Heart of the Parks”, the much underrated Golden Bay region is a place of considerable natural beauty. If you venture slightly out of Takaka you will see the Te Waikoropupu (Pupu Springs), one of the largest freshwater springs in the world. Information Centre Willow St, 03 525 9136 Dept of Conservation Office 62 Commercial St, 03 525 8026

TAKAKA STAY Annie’s Nirvana Lodge (BBH, YHA) 25 Motupipi St. 03 525 8766, nirvanalodge.co.nz

follow us on Aquapackers Anchorage Bay, Marahau, Abel Tasman National Park. 0800 430 744, aquapackers.co.nz Golden Bay Barefoot Backpackers (BBH) 114 Commercial St. 03 525 7005, bare-foot.co.nz Kiwiana (BBH) 73 Motuipipi St. 03 525 7676 kiwianabackpackers.co.nz Kanuka Ridge (BBH) 21 Moss Rd, Marahau, Abel Tasman National Park. 03 527 8435, abeltasmanbackpackers.co.nz The Rocks chalets 2086 Takaka Valley Hwy, 03 525 8096, travelbug.co.nz River Inn Golden Bay. 03 525 9425 riverinn.co.nz Shambhala (BBH) 1234 Takaka-Collingwood Highway. 03 525 8463, shambhala.co.nz

KAHURANGI NP The second-largest national park in NZ, Kahurangi includes the Heaphy Track. There are more than 100 bird species and an impressive cave system to be seen here. For info see the Nelson DOC office.

COLLINGWOOD North-west of Takaka is the tiny community of Collingwood (the people aren’t particularly small, their numbers are), a good base for expeditions to Farewell Spit.

@tnt_downunder portage.co.nz Watson Way Backpackers (BBH) 56 High Street 03 572 8228 watsonswaylodge.com

PICTON This pretty town is the opening to the South Island, where the North Island ferry comes in, a centre for the many activities in Queen Charlotte Sound. Airport shuttle bus 03 573 7125

PICTON STAY Atlantis Backpackers (BBH) 42 London Quay, 03 573 7390, atlantishostel.co.nz The Buccaneer Lodge 314 Waikawa Rd, 03 573 5002, buccaneerlodge.co.nz The Jugglers Rest (BBH) 8 Canterbury St. 03 573 5570, jugglersrest.com Fat Cod Backpackers (BBH) 9 Auckland St, 03 573 7788, fatcodbackpackers.co.nz Sequoia Lodge (BBH, VIP) 3 Nelson Sq. 03 573 8399, sequoialodge.co.nz Atlantis Backpackers 42 London Quay, 03 573 7390, atlantisbackpackers.co.nz The Villa (BBH) 34 Auckland St. 03 573 6598, thevilla.co.nz

The Innlet (BBH) 839 Pakawau Main Rd, 03 524 8040, theinnlet.co.nz

Tombstone Backpackers (BBH) 16 Gravesend Place. 03 573 7116, tombstonebp.co.nz

Somerset House (BBH) 10 Gibbs Rd. 03 524 8624, backpackerscollingwood.co.nz

Parklands Marina Holiday Park 10 Beach Rd, 03 573 6343, parktostay.co.nz

FAREWELL SPIT Arching east from the top of Golden Bay, this is a sand bar of epic proportions, home to some of the largest sanddunes in the world and some amazing birdlife. Golden Bay Visitor Centre 03 524 8454

MARLBOROUGH The Marlborough Sounds are a beautiful labyrinth of islands and bays, serving as an impressive gateway to the South Island. Hire a kayak to paddle the coves in style, or go swimming with the dolphins. Anakiwa 401 (BBH) 401 Anakiwa Rd. 03 574 1388, anakiwabackpackers.co.nz Copperbeech (BBH) 73 Maxwell Rd. 03 579 2246, copperbeechbackpackers@hotmail. com Hopewell (BBH) Kenepuru Rd. 03 573 4341, hopewell.co.nz The Partage Resort Hotel Kenepuru Sound. 0800 275 373,

PICTON DO Dolphin Watch Encounters Picton Foreshore, 03 573 8040, naturetours.co.nz Marlborough Sounds Adventure Company 03 573 6078, malboroughsounds.co.nz Southern Wilderness NZ Guided walk, wine trek and sea kayaking specialists. 0800 666 044, southernwilderness.com EcoWorld Aquaium Discover the animals that make NZ unique. 03 573 6030 ecoworldnz.com

QUEEN CHARLOTTE On the road-free outer Queen Charlotte Sound, everyone and everything travels by boat. The Queen Charlotte Track covers 71km and passes through magnificent forest, at times allowing spectacular views over the Marlborough Sounds. The whole track can be walked in four days, though you can also ride it by mountain bike.

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SOUTHISLAND

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Endeavour Express Water Taxi Day-trips, round-trips and luggage transfers. 03 573 5456

HAVELOCK Nestled at the head of Pelorus Sound, Havelock is the best place from which to explore the Marlborough Sounds. For trampers and mountain bikers there’s the beautiful Nydia Track. DOC Office Mahakipawa Rd, 03 574 2019 Explore Pelorus Sea Kayaks 03 576 5251

HAVELOCK STAY Bluemoon Lodge (BBH) 48 Main Rd. 03 574 2212, bluemoonhavelock.co.nz Linkwater Motel 1594 Queen Charlotte Dr, 03 574 2600 linkwatermotel.co.nz Okiwa Bay Lodge 169 Anakiwa Rd, 03 574 2527, okiwabaylodge.co.nz

PELORUS SOUND The largest waterway within the Marlborough Sounds, it can be accessed from Havelock, Linkwater or Rai Valley.

BLENHEIM The largest town in Marlborough, and considered (ahem, also) the“sunshine capital of New Zealand”. Whitewater rafting on the Buller and Gowan Rivers is great fun. Blenheim I-Site 8 Sinclair Street Railway Station 03 577 8080 Koanui Lodge & Backpackers (BBH) 33 Main St. 03 578 7487, koanui.co.nz The Grapevine (BBH) 29 Park Terrace, 03 578 6062, thegrapevine.co.nz Arrow Backpackers (BBH) 107 Budge St, 03 577 9857, bbh.co.nz Leeways Backpackers (BBH) 33 Lansdowne St, 03 579 2213, leeways.byethost22.com

KAIKOURA Kaikoura is famous for its large sperm whale population and picturesque mountain range. You can also snorkel with dolphins or swim with the inquisitive NZ fur seals (Sept-May). Kaikoura Visitor Info Centre, West End, 03 319 5641

KAIKOURA STAY Albatross Backpacker Inn (BBH) 1 Torquay St. 03 319 6090,

albatross-kaikoura.co.nz Bad Jelly Backpackers (BBH) 11 Churchill St. 03 319 5538, bbh.co.nz Dolphin Lodge (BBH) 15 Deal St. 03 319 5842, dolphinlodge.co.nz Dusky Lodge (BBH) 67 Beach Rd. 03 319 5959 duskylodge.co.nz The Lazy Shag (BBH) 37 Beach St. 03 319 6662 lazy-shag.co.nz Lyell Creek Lodge (BBH) 193 Beach Rd. 03 319 6277, lyellcreeklodge.co.nz Sunrise Lodge (BBH) 74 Beach Rd, 03 319 7444, bbh.co.nz The Fairways at Ocean Ridge 1 Kersage Drive, 03 319 3055 YHA Kaikoura 270 Esplanade. 03 319 5931, yha.co.nz

KAIKOURA DO Kaikoura is famous for its large sperm whale population and picturesque mountain r Albatross Encounter Enjoy the sight of the magnificent albatross so close to the boat you can almost touch them. 96 Esplanade, 0800 733 365 albatrossencounter.co.nz Dolphin Encounter Swim with the acrobatic dusky dolphins or if you prefer, join the tour to view them from the boat. 96 Esplanade, 0800 733 365, dolphin.co.nz Fyffe House 62 Avoca St, Kaikoura’s oldest building, 03 319 5835. Kaikoura Kayaks Paddle with the playful fur seals, dusky dolphins and marine life of Kaikoura. Seal kayaking, kayak school, hire, retail and kayak fishing. 19 Killarney St, 0800 452 456, kaikourakayaks.co.nz Seal Swim Kaikoura Swim with wild NZ Fur Seals. 58 West End, 0800 732 579, sealswimkaikoura.co.nz

CHRISTCHURCH Christchurch is the South Island’s major city and a lively, pretty base with a distinctly English feel to it. Throw in Mount Cook and Mount Hutt with their skifields (early June to late October) and the Canterbury area is well worth spending some time discovering. Christchurch & Canterbury i-Site Visitor Centre Rolleston Avenue (Next to the Canterbury Museum) Christchurch 8011. 03 379 9629 christchurchnz.com

Department of Conservation 7 Rolleston Ave, 09 526 9743

C’CHURCH STAY

This surf beach is also a great place to chill for a while. If you’re feeling adventurous, mountain biking, paragliding and surfing are just some of the activities you can try.

LEWIS PASS

Around the World Backpackers 314 Barbadoes Street. 03 365 4363 aroundtheworld.co.nz

Christchurch Backpackers Haka Lodge 518 Linwood Av, Woolston,. 03 980 4252, hakalodge.co.nz

At The Right Place (BBH) 85 Bealey Street. 03 366 1633 atrp.co.nz

BANKS PENINSULA

Avon City Backpackers Worcester Street. 03 389 6876, avoncitybackpackers.com Dorset House (BBH) 1 Dorset St, 03 366 8268, dorset.co.nz Celtic Backpackers (BBH) 12 Dublin St, 03 377 4417, celticbackpackers.co.nz Chester Street Backpackers (BBH) 148 Chester St East. 03 377 1897, chesterst.co.nz Foley Towers (BBH) 208 Kilmore St. 03 366 9720, backpack.co.nz/foley Haka Lodge 518 Linwood Ave. 03 980 4252 hakalodge.com Jailhouse Accommodation (BBH) 338 Lincoln Rd. 0800 524 546 jail.co.nz Kiwi Basecamp (BBH) 69 Bealey Ave. 03 366 6770 kiwibasecamp.com Kiwi House 3 Devon St, Hanmer Springs. 03 315 5111, kiwihouse.co.nz Point Break Backpackers 6 Union Street. 03 388 2050 pointbreakbackpackers.co.nz The Old Countryhouse (BBH) 437 Gloucester St. 03 381 5504 oldcountryhousenz.com Tranquil Lodge 440 Manchester St. 03 366 6500 tranquil-lodge.co.nz Rucksacker Backpacker Hostel (BBH) 70 Bealey Ave. 03 377 7931, rucksacker.com Vagabond Backpackers (BBH) 232 Worcester St. 03 379 9677 vagabondhostel.com

C’CHURCH DO

Banks Peninsula is a beautiful region with a stunning coastline chock full of mountains and wildlife. The two harbours of Akaroa and Lyttelton are craters of a once majestic volcano.

LYTTELTON

About 200km north of Christchurch, the Lewis Pass connects the west and east coasts on the SH7, with stunning surrounding scenery.

HANMER SPRINGS Hanmer Springs boasts the Hanmer Springs Thermal Reserve, where the water can reach 40°C (03 315 7511, hotfun.co.nz). Mt Lyford offers good winter skiing and is a cheaper option to the South Island resorts. Department of Conservation 115 Ludstone Rd, Kaikoura 03 319 5714

Lyttelton is a quaint township with a beautiful scenic harbour and historic buildings. The harbour is a great place for boating, while the surrounding hills are good for mountain biking and walking.

The Hanmer Connection Christchurch to Hanmer Springs buses. hanmerconnection.co.nz

Lyttelton Information Centre 20 Oxford St, 03 328 9093

HANMER STAY

AKAROA Swim with dolphins, horse-ride and paraglide. If your tastes are a little more sedate, the foreshore is lined with cafes, galleries and boutiques.

Hanmer Backpackers 41 Conical Hill Rd. 03 315 7196, www.hanmerbackpackers.co.nz Jack in the Green (BBH) 3 Devon St. 03 315 5111, jackinthegreen.co.nz

Akaroa Information Centre 80 Rue Lavaud, 03 304 8600

Kakapo Lodge (YHA) 14 Amuri Avenue. 03 315 7472, kakapolodge.co.nz

Akaroa Shuttle Christchurch to Akaroa buses. 0800 500 929

Waipara Sleepers (BBH) 12 Glenmark Dr, Waipara. 03 314 6003, waiparasleepers.co.nz

Akaroa French Connection Tours and shuttle bus, 0800 800 575

AKAROA STAY Bon Accord Backpackers (BBH) 57 Rue Lavaud. 03 304 7782, bon-accord.co.nz Chez La Mer (BBH) 50 Rue Lavaud. 03 304 7024, chezlamer.co.nz Double Dutch (BBH) 32 Chorlton Road, Okains Bay. 03 304 7229, doubledutch.co.nz Halfmoon Cottage (BBH) SH25 Barrys Bay. 03 304 5050, halfmoon.co.nz

Black Cat Cruises Wildlife Cruises on Lyttelton Harbour. Free shuttle bus from Christchurch, 03 328 9078. blackcat.co.nz

Onuku Farm Hostel (BBH) 03 304 7066, onuku.co.nz

Skydivingnz.com Skydiving and training courses, 0800 697 593 skydivingnz.com

Akaroa Museum 71 Rue Lavard, 03 304 1013

Aoraki Balloon Safaris Hot air ballooning, 03 302 8172, nzballooning.com

Black Cat Cruises Offer a number of cruises in Akaroa. See Akaroa Harbour or swim with dolphins. blackcat.co.nz

SUMNER

Swim with dolphins in Akaroa Harbour. 61 Beach Rd, 0508 365 744, dolphinsakaroa.co.nz

AKAROA DO

Dolphin Experience

CASTLE HILL Gateway to the Craigieburn Range. Chill Adventures Multi-mountain snow passes. chillout.co.nz Springfield Hotel State Highway 73, Springfield. 03 318 4812, springfieldhotel.co.nz

ARTHUR’S PASS This township is the HQ for the magnificent national park which offers tramping expeditions to skiing. National Park Visitor Centre 03 318 9211 Mountain House (BBH) Main Road, Arthur’s Pass National Park. 03 318 9258 trampers.co.nz Rata Lodge Backpackers (BBH) State Highway 73, Otira Arthur’s Pass National Park, 03 738 2822 rata-lodge.co.nz The Sanctuary (BBH) 126 Main Road, Arther’s Pass National Park 03 942 2230, thesanctuary.co.nz Smylies Accommodation (YHA) 03 318 9258, yha.co.nz

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SOUTHISLAND METHVEN

LAKE TEKAPO

Methven is a small, friendly town popular with fishermen, hunters and backpackers. The area provides a variety of adrenalin thrills, including hot air ballooning, bungy jumping and skydiving. Mt Hutt also has the longest ski run in Australasia.

A stunning turquoise-coloured lake, 100km west of Timaru. The tiny Church of the Good Shepherd, built in 1935, frames the view beautifully. Activities include walking, watersports, fishing and skiing.

Methven i-SITE Visitor Centre 160 Main St, Methven, 03 302 8955, NZ Ski.com Info on Coronet Peak, the Remarkables and Mt Hutt. nzski.com

METHVEN STAY Brinkley Resort 43 Barkers Rd, Mt Hutt, 03 302 8885, brinkleyresort.co.nz Big Tree Lodge 25 S Belt, 03 302 9575, bigtreelodge.co.nz Mt Hutt Bunkhouse (BBH) 8 Lampard St. 03 302 8894, mthuttbunkhouse.co.nz Pinedale Backpacker Lodge 11 Alford St. 0800 638 483, pinedalelodge.co.nz Redwood Lodge (BBH) 3 Wayne Place. 03 302 8964, snowboardnz.com Skiwi House 30 Chapman St. 03 302 8772, skiwihouse.com Breckenridge Lodge 49 S Belt, 03 302 8902, breckenridgelodge.co.nz

TIMARU Despite being industrial, it’s picturesque with views of the Southern Alps, plains and sea. 1873 Wanderer Backpackers (BBH) 24 Evans St. 03 688 8795 Timaru Top 10 Holiday Park 154A Selwyn St, Waimataitai 0800 242 121 Anchor Motel 44 Evans St, 03 684 5067 anchormotel.co.nz

GERALDINE As well as a wonderful old movie theatre and whitewater rafting on the Rangitata River, visiting the mighty Emily Falls is recommended. Geraldine Information Centre Talbot Street, 03 693 1006

YHA Lake Tekapo 3 Simpson Lane. 03 680 6857, yha.co.nz

MT COOK Mt Cook National Park is part of a World Heritage area that forms one of the most amazing sights in NZ. The showcase is Mt Cook (Aoraki). NZ’s greatest climber Sir Edmund Hillary used it for practice before conquering Mt Everest, but Mt Cook has claimed the lives of more than 160 people. Discuss climbing plans with rangers before you go. Department of Conservation Visitor Information Centre Aoraki/Mt Cook Alpine Village, 03 435 1819 The Cook Connection Day trips to Mt Cook from Tekapo. Ph: 021 583 211, cookconnect.co.nz

MT COOK STAY YHA Franz Josef Glacier 2 Cron St, Franz Josef, 03 752 0754, mt.chalets@xtra.co.nz YHA Mt Cook Aoraki/Mt Cook National Park. 03 435 1820, yha.co.nz

biking on the Matakitaki. Buller Gorge Swingbridge Adventure and Heritage Park 03 523 9809, bullergorge.co.nz The Lazy Cow Accommodation (BBH) 37 Waller St. 03 523 9451, thelazycownz.wordpress.com

REEFTON The centrepiece of the town is Victoria Forest Park, the largest forest park in New Zealand.

Beaconstone Eco Lodge Birds Ferry Road Charleston 027 431 0491 beconstoneecolodge.co.nz The Old Slaughterhouse (BBH) Dean Creek, RD1, Highway 67, Hector 03 782 8333 oldslaughterhouse.co.nz TripInn (BBH) 72 Queen St. 03 789 7367 tripinn.co.nz

PAPAROA NP

Karamea Information Centre 106 Bridge St, 03 782 6652. Rongo Backpackers 03 782 6667, rongobackpackers.com

Rangitata Rafts Peel Forest, 0800 251 251 rafts.co.nz

With crazy terrain skewed by mining and earthquakes, one of the major attractions of Murchison is its proximity to Buller Gorge, a wonderfully scenic cluster of cliffs and trees. Activities include rafting on the Gowan River and mountain

MURCHISON

The tiny beach settlement of Okarito, near Franz Josef Glacier, sits at the mouth of New Zealand’s largest unmodified wetland – the Okarito Lagoon. Hike up to the Okarito Trig for excellent views.

Noahs Ark Backpackers (BBH) 16 Chapel St, 03 768 4868, noahs.co.nz

Bazil’s Hostel (VIP) – (BBH) 54/56 Russell St. 03 789 6410, bazils.co.nz

Visitor Information Punakaiki 03 731 1895 punakaiki.co.nz Barrytown Knife Making 2662 Coast Road, Barrytown, 03 731 1053, barrytownknifemaking.com

PAPAROA STAY Punakaiki Beach Hostel (BBH) 4 Webb St. 03 731 1852, punakaikibeachhostel.co.nz Te Nikau Retreat (BBH, YHA) 03 731 1111, tenikauretreat.co.nz Punakaiki Beach Camp Owen Street, 03 731 1894, punakaiki.co.nz

GREYMOUTH The west coast’s largest town is dominated by the Grey River. Highlights include the Monteith’s

WHATAROA

GREYMOUTH STAY

The Old Nurses Home 104 Shiel St, 03 789 8881

WESTPORT

right, it can’t look as good as that in real life. Hokitika Gorge is one of those places. hokitika.org

About 35km south of Harihari and one of the South Island’s prime fishing spots. Also the magnificent white heron (Kotuku) colony which thrillseekers can reach by jet boat.

Global Village (BBH) 42-54 Cowper St, 03 768 7272, globalvillagebackpackers.co.nz

Visitor Information Westport 1 Brougham St, 03 789 6658

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TranzAlpine Scenic railway from Christchurch to Greymouth, travelling through Canterbury Plains and the Alps. Departs 9am every morning. 0800 872 467 tranzscenic.co.nz

Reefton Old Bread Shop 155 Buller Rd, 03 732 8420, reeftonbackpackers.co.nz

This park is home to the amazing Pancake Rocks at Punakaiki. These are a series of eroded limestone rocks moulded into what appears to be a giant stack of pancakes.

KARAMEA

Visitor Information Herbert and Mackay Sts, 03 768 5101

Duke Hostel (BBH) 27 Guiness St. 03 768 9470 duke.co.nz

WEST COAST

Karamea contains pleasant walks, interesting caves and the Oparara River, a great trout fishing spot. Walk along the wonderful Fernian Track or, try the more challenging hike up Mt Stormy.

brewery tour, as well as aquatic activities like rafting and canyoning.

Reefton Visitor Centre 67 Broadway, 03 732 8391

Rugged is the word often used when it comes to the South Island’s west coast. It’s quite an amazing place, sparsely inhabited, untouched in many areas and studded with geographical wonders. Don’t miss the two mighty glaciers, Fox and Franz Josef, or the Pancake Rocks.

Peel Forest Horse Trekking Wilderness adventures trekking through some gorgeous country, 03 696 3703, peelforesthorsetrekking.co.nz

Rawhiti House (BBH) 27 Hewlings St. 03 693 8252 rawhitibackpackers.co.nz

Tailor-Made-Tekapo Backpackers (BBH) 10/11 Aorangi Cres. 03 680 6700 tailor-made-backpackers.co.nz

BOOK NOW!

Greymouth KIWI Holiday Park & Motel 318 Main South Rd, 03 762 6768, southbeach.co.nz Kainga-RA YHA 15 Alexander St, Ph: (03) 768 4951, yha.co.nz

HOKITIKA Greenstone, a form of practically indestructible rock that was used by the Maori to make weapons and ornaments, is the main attraction here. There’s also the Westland Water World for all things wet, the Glowworm Dell and some excellent whitewater rafting. Hokitika Visitor Info Centre Carnegie Building, corner of Hamilton & Tancred Street, 03 755 6166

HOKITIKA STAY Hokitika Holiday Park 242 Strafford St, 03 755 8172 Birdsong (BBH) 124 SH6, 03 755 7179 birdsong.co.nz Drifting Sands Backpackers (BBH) 197 Revell St, driftingsands.kiwi Mountain Jade Backpackers (BBH) 41 Weld St, 03 755 5185, mountainjadebackpackers.co.nz Riverview Cottage & Cabins (BBH) 154 Kaniere Rd, 03 755 7440 riverviewcottageandcabins.co.nz Stumpers Accommodation 2 Weld St, 03 755 6154, stumpers.co.nz

HOKITIKA DO Whitewater Kayaking hokitika.org Hokitika Gorge Sometimes you see photos of a tourist spot and think yeah

OKARITO

Okarito Nature Tours 03 753 4014, okarito.co.nz Okarito Beach House Close to Franz Josef Glacier, 03 753 4080 okaritohostel.com

FRANZ JOSEF The glacier is about 12km long and offers a wide variety of challenging activities. To get the ultimate perspective on the magnitude of Franz Josef, head for Sentinel Rock, which gives a sweeping view over both the Waiho Valley and the mighty glacier. DOC Visitors Information Centre Westland National Park, Hwy 6, 03 752 0796

FRANZ STAY Chateau Franz: Sir Cendrics (VIP, BBH) 8-10 Cron St, 0800 728 372, sircedrics.co.nz Glow Worm Cottages (BBH) 27 Cron St, 0800 151 027, glowwormcottages@xtra.co.nz Montrose Lodge (BBH) 9 Cron St, 03 752 0188, montroselodge.co.nz Rainforest Retreat (VIP) Cron St, 0800 873 346 rainforestretreat.co.nz YHA Franz Josef 2-4 Cron St, 03 752 0754, yha.co.nz

FRANZ DO Alpine Adventure Centre Footage on a helimax screen, 03 752 0793 scenic-flights.co.nz Franz Josef Glacier Guides Guided walks and heli-hikes on the Franz Josef Glacier 0800 484 337, franzjosefglacier.com Glacier Country Kayaks Explore the glaciers from the water 03 752 0230, glacierkayaks.com Skydive Franz At 18,000ft, they currently offer NZ’s highest skydive. 0800 458 677,

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FOX GLACIER Similiar activities to Franz Josef only with fewer crowds. The best walk is up to the Welcome Flat Hot Springs. For stunning views, head up the wonderfully scenic Chalet Lookout Walk. Look out for the beautiful kea (grey-green mountain parrot). Nearby is Lake Matheson, with its stunning twin mountain reflection. DOC Visitor Centre State Hwy 6, 03 752 0796

FOX STAY Fox Glacier Inn (BBH) 03 751 0088 foxglacierinn.co.nz Ivory Towers (BBH) 03 751 0838, ivorytowerslodge.co.nz

FOX DO Fox Glacier Guiding Guided walks and heli-hikes on the FoxGlacier. 0800 111 600, foxguides.co.nz Glacier Country Kayaks 20 Cron St, 0800 423 262, glacierkayaks.com Skydive NZ: Fox Glacier 0800 751 0080, skydivingnz.co.nz

HAAST PASS Running through Mt Aspiring National Park, this stretch of road is among the most scenic that you’ll come across in New Zealand, showing off pristine lakes, magnificent forests and waterfalls. DOC Centre Cnr SH 6 and Jackson Bay Rd, 03 750 0809 Wilderness Backpackers (BBH) Marks Rd, 03 750 029, wildernessaccommodation.co.nz

SOUTHLAND The top of your chest will quickly get sore as the South Island’s jaw-dropping scenery becomes more prevalent. From the adrenalin thrills of Queenstown to the achingly beautiful Milford Sound, there’s never a dull moment down south. Stop frequently, take deep breaths and enjoy one of the most beautiful places on Earth. Mt Aspiring National Park Visitor Info Centre Mt Earnslaw, 03 443 7660

LAKE WANAKA The cosy town and its crystal-clear waters which reflect the dramatic landscape is the gateway to Mount Aspiring Park. The World Heritage area has magnificent tramping and mountaineering. Lake Wanaka boasts almost as many adrenalintastic activities as neighbouring Queenstown, such as mountain

biking, jet-boating, canyoning, and whitewater sledging. It’s a favourite with snowboarders in winter, and has lively nightlife year-round. Boasting the most sceneray from those films with wizards and hairyfooted hobbits, there are great Lord of the Rings tours, too. Lake Wanaka Visitors Centre The Log Cabin, Lakefront, 100 Ardmore Street. 03 4431 1233

WANAKA STAY Holly’s Backpackers (BBH) 71 Upton St, 03 443 8187, hollys-backpacker.co.nz LHH (BBH) 1 Capell Ave, 03 443 1224, lakehawea.co.nz Mountain View Backpackers (BBH) 7 Russell St, 0800 112 201, wanakabackpackers.co.nz Matterhorn South (BBH) 56 Brownston St, 03 443 1119, matterhornsouth.co.nz The Purple Cow (BBH) 94 Brownston St, 03 443 1880, purplecow.co.nz Wanaka Bakpaka (BBH) 117 Lakeside Rd, 03 443 7837, wanakabakpaka.co.nz YHA Wanaka 181 Upton St, 03 443 7405, yha.co.nz

WANAKA DO Adventure Consultants Mountaineering instruction courses and guided ascents, 03 443 8711, adventure.co.nz Aspiring Guides Guided mountain climbing and ice climbing instruction courses, 03 443 9422, aspiringguides.com Classic Flights Vintage Tiger Moth flights over Lake Wanaka. 03 443 4043, classicflights.co.nz Deep Canyon Canyoning in the Matukituki Valley. Adventure Wanaka, 23 Dunmore St, Wanaka. 03 443 7922, deepcanyon.co.nz Frogz Have More Fun Sledge down either the Clutha, Hawea or Kawarau Rivers. 0800 437 649, frogz.co.nz

Wanaka Rock Climbing One, three and five-day rock climbing courses for everyone. 03 443 6411, wanakarock.co.nz Wanaka Flightseeing Milford Sound flight and cruise from Wanaka, 03 443-8787, flightseeing.co.nz Wanaka Sightseeing Includes Lord of the Rings tours, 2 Anderson Rd, 03 338 0982, wanakasightseeing.co.nz

LAKE HAWEA Thirty-five kilometres long and more than 400m deep, Lake Hawea is a great source of salmon and rainbow trout.

QUEENSTOWN Paradise for the energetic traveller, Queenstown is one of the world’s most action-packed towns. The town, which is surprisingly small compared to its big reputation, is located on Lake Wakatipu and rises up to the peaks of the aptly-named Remarkables (which you can ski in winter). In winter, the town is a centre for nearby skifields and in summer adventure activities and tramping take over. There’s also a hectic social scene which extends well into the wee small hours. Info & Track Guided Walks 37 Shotover St, 03 442 9708 Peterpans Adventure Travel 27 Shotover St Queenstown. peterpans.com.au Queenstown Travel & Visitor Centre Corner of Shotover & Camp Sts, 03 442 4100

Q’TOWN STAY Alpine Lodge (BBH) 13 Gorge Rd. 03 442 7220, alpinelodgebackpackers.co.nz Aspen Lodge (BBH) 11 Gorge Rd. 03 442 9671, aspenlodge.co.nz Base Discovery Lodge Queenstown 49 Shotover St. 03 441 1185, stayatbase.com Black Sheep Lodge (VIP) 13 Frankton Rd. 03 442 7289, blacksheepbackpackers.co.nz Bungi Backpackers (VIP, BBH) 15 Sydney St. 0800 728 286, bungibackpackers.co.nz Butterfli Lodge (BBH) 62 Thompson St. 03 442 6367, butterfli.co.nz

The Silver Demon Aerobatic flights. 03 443 4043, silverdemon.co.nz

Cardrona Alpine Resort Between Queenstown and Wanaka. 03 443 7341, cardrona.com

Skydive Lake Wanaka Freefall from 12,000 or 15,000ft with views of NZ’s highest mountains. 0800 786 877, skydivenz.com

Deco Backpackers (VIP, BBH) 52 Man St. 03 442 7384, decobackpackers.co.nz

Treble Cone Ski Field 03 443 7443, treblecone.co.nz

Flaming Kiwi Backpackers (BBH) 39 Robins Rd. 03 442 5494, flamingkiwi.co.nz Hippo Lodge (BBH)

4 Anderson Hts. 03 442 5785, hippolodge.co.nz

0800 467 325, tandemparagliding.com

The Last Resort Queenstown (BBH) 6 Memorial St. 03 442 4320, tlrqtn.com

Haka Adventure Snow Tours 03 980 4250, hakatours.com Mad Dog River Boarding River sledging & other actionpacked water activities, 03 442 7797, riverboarding.co.nz

Nomads Queenstown 5-11 Church St. 03 441 3922, nomadshostels.com Pinewood Lodge (VIP) Queenstown’s best value accommodation. We offer an excellent variety of accommodation, everything from deluxe en-suite rooms with private bathroom amenities, inexpensive double and twin rooms, dorm beds and selfcontained family cabins. 48 Hamilton Rd. 0800 746 396, 03 442 8273, pinewood.co.nz Southern Laughter: Sir Cedrics (BBH, VIP) 4 Isle St. 0800 441 8828, sircedrics.co.nz

Milford Sound Flightseeing Scenic flights to Milford Sound, 0800 65 65 01, realjourneys.co.nz NZONE Skydive Skydive from 15,000ft. 35 Shotover St, 03 442 5867, nzone.biz NZ Ski.com Info on Coronet Peak, the Remarkables and Mt Hutt, nzski.com Queenstown Rafting Raft the Shotover, Kawarau and Landsborough rivers. 35 Shotover St. 03 442 9792 rafting.co.nz

Scallywags Travellers’ Guesthouse (BBH) 27 Lomond Crescent. 03 442 7083, bbh.co.nz

Real Journeys Visitor Centre Doubtful Sound & Milford Sound daytime and overnight cruises. Te Anau glow-worm cave excursions. TSS Earnslaw vintage steamship cruises and Walter Peak High Country Farm. 0800 65 65 01, realjourneys.co.nz

YHA Queenstown Central 48A Shotover Street. 03 442 7400, yha.co.nz YHA Queenstown Lakefront 88-90 Lake Esplanade. 03 442 8413, yha.co.nz

Q’TOWN DO There are hundreds of activities to keep you occupied in Queenstown. Bungy, jetboating and rafting are all experiences not to be missed, and in winter, skiing the Remarkables is a must. To really appreciate the beauty of the region, take a scenic flight, or even jump out the plane. AJ Hackett Bungy Queenstown Jump off one or all of New Zealand’s most well-known sites. Nevis Highwire Bungy, the highest in New Zealand – 134m above the Nevis River. The Kawarau Bridge, the world’s first bungy – 43m above the Kawarau River. The 47m Ledge, 400m above the town which you can jump day or night. Access is by Skyline Gondola. 0800 286 4958 bungy.co.nz

Shotover Canyon Swing Jump or be released 109m off the world’s highest cliff jump. 0800 279 464, canyonswing.co.nz Shotover Jet Jetboat ride. 0800 746 868 shotoverjet.com Sky Trek Hang Gliding 03 442 9551, skytrek.co.nz Vertigo Mountain Biking Heli-bike and gondola downhill. 0800 837 8446, vertigobikes.co.nz

GLENORCHY Just out of Queenstown is Glenorchy (or “Isengard”) which has some of the best walks in the area, including the Greenstone and Caples tracks. Department of Conservation Beech St, 03 442 7933

Awesome Foursome Bungy (Nevis – 134m), jetboat, helicopter, whitewater rafting, combos.co.nz

Glenorchy Backpackers Retreat (VIP) Cnr Mull and Argyle Streets, Glenorchy, glenorchynz.com

Dart River Safaris Jetboating wilderness tours, 0800 327 8538, dartriver.co.nz

Kinloch Lodge 862 Kinloch Rd, 03 442 4900, kinlochlodge.co.nz

Fat Tyre Adventure Mountain biking/heli biking, 0800 328 897, fat-tyre.co.nz Fergburger Best burgers in NZ. Shotover St, fergburger.com Flight Park Tandem Paragliding Operates from Coronet Peak

ARROWTOWN Poplar Lodge 4 Merioneth St, 03 442 1466, poplarlodge.co.nz Arrowtown Holiday Park 12 Centennial Ave, 03 442 1876

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SOUTHISLAND TE ANAU Home to the second largest lake in NZ, Te Anau is a beautiful little town, a good jumping off point for the World Heritage Fiordland National Park. The park is the largest in New Zealand and offers some spectacular sightseeing. The Milford Track is one of the most famous in the world, but often booked out. The Routeburn, ReesDart and Kepler are ace alternatives. doc.govt.nz Fiordland I-site Visitor Centre Lakefront Drive, Te Anau, 03 249 8900 Department of Conservation 03 249 8514 Te Anau Glowworm Caves realjourneys.co.nz Air Fiordland Flights to Queenstown, Milford and Mt Cook, 03 249 7505, airfiordland.co.nz Real Journeys Coaches to Milford Sound, 0800 656 503 realjourneys.co.nz Scenic Shuttle Daily between Te Anau and Invercargill in summer months, twice weekly in winter. Connects with the Catlins Coaster from Invercargill to Dunedin 0800 277 483 Top Line Tours Coach to and from Te Anau and Queenstown, 03 249 8059

TE ANAU STAY Barnyard Backpackers (BBH) 80 Mt York Rd, Rainbow Downs, 03 249 8006, barnyard.moonfruit.com Bob & Maxine’s (BBH) 20 Paton Place, 03 931 3161, bbh.co.za Rosie’s Backpacker Homestay (BBH) 23 Tom Plato Drive, Lake Te Anau, 03 249 8431, rosiesbackpackers.co.nz Te Anau Lakefront Backpackers (BBH) 48/50 Lakefront Dr, 03 249 7713, teanaubackpackers.co.za Steamers Beach Backpackers (BBH) 77 Manapouri- Te Anau Hwy, 03 249 7737, smarturl.it/steamersbeach YHA Te Anau 29 Mokonui St, 03 249 7847, yha.co.nz

TE ANAU DO Adventure Fiordland 72 Town Centre, 03 249 8500 fiordlandaventure.co.nz High Ride Adventures Quad riding and scenic horse trekking. 03 249 8591, highride.co.nz Luxmore Jet Jetboating on the Waiau River, 0800 253 826,

luxmorejet.co.nz Real Journeys Doubtful Sound daytime wilderness, small boat and overnight cruises. Milford Sound daytime, overnight scenic, nature and small boat cruises. 0800 656 501, realjourneys.co.nz Milford Track Day Walk Lake cruise and guided walk, 0800 656 501 milfordlodge.co.nz Rosco’s Milford Sound Sea Kayaks 0800 476 726, roscosmilfordkayaks.com Skydive Fiordland Dive 44 Caswell Rd, Te Anau, 0800 829254, tawakidive.co.nz

ANAU TO MILFORD The distance between Te Anau and Milford Sound may be 119km but the breathtaking scenery along the way makes the journey extremely enjoyable. Along the road watch out for the Mirror Lakes and the disappearing mountain. Another highlight is the 1.2km rough-hewn Homer Tunnel. It’s pitch black, having no lighting plus it’s pretty darn steep – a thrilling experience for those afraid of the dark.

MILFORD SOUND Green, wet and breathtakingly beautiful, Milford Sound is one of the most picturesque sights in the world. Much of the action in the Milford Sound takes place on the water and the best way to appreciate the beauty on show is on a cruise or kayak. Bottlenose dolphins, New Zealand fur seals and Fiordland crested penguins all hang out there.

MILFORD DO Real Journeys 0800 656 501, realjourneys.co.nz Great Sights On and under the water, 03 442 9445 greatsights.co.nz Milford Sound Underwater Observatory Discover a coral reef beneath Milford Sound, 03 249 9442 Milford Sound Cruise & Observatory Visit 0800 656 501

BOOK NOW! realjourneys.co.nz Wanaka Flightseeing Milford Sound flight and cruise, 0800 105 105, flightseeing.co.nz 

MANAPOURI Manapouri is the proud owner of arguably New Zealand’s most beautiful stretch of water. This is where the boat trip on Doubtful Sound leaves from – most start the trip in Queenstown or Te Anau. From the boat you may see seals and possibly dolphins and penguins. Adventure Charters and Hires fiordlandadventure.co.nz Real Journeys 03 249 6602 realjourneys.co.nz

MANAPOURI STAY Freestone Backpackers (BBH) 270 Hillside Rd, 03 249 6893, freestone.co.nz Manapouri Lakeview Motor Inn 68 Cathedral Drive, 03 249 6652, manapouri.co.nz Possum Lodge 13 Murrel Ave, 03 249 6623, possumlodge.co.nz

DOUBT SOUND If you’re not one for crowds, an alternative Fiordland option is Doubtful Sound – the deepest of the fiords, made up of 100km of waterways. Where Milford is all pointy peaks and endless cascading falls, Doubtful is rounded mountains – a serene sanctuary, inhabited by loads of interesting critters. Real Journeys Daytime wilderness, small boat and overnight cruises. 0800 656 502 realjourneys.co.nz Fiordland Navigator Pearl Harbour, Manapouri 03 249 6602, doubtfulsound.co.nz Deep Cove Hostel Doubtful Sound, 03 249 7713, deepcovehostel.co.nz

INVERCARGILL

Milford Wanderer Cruises Day and overnight options with kayaking, etc. Coach connections, 0800 656 501, realjourneys.co.nz

The southernmost city in New Zealand, Invercargill is a farmingorientated community with a pleasant collection of parks and museums to keep you busy.

Tawaki Dive See Fiordland’s unique marine life on a day-trip with two guided dives in Milford Sound. Rental gear available, max four divers. 0800 829254, tawakidive.co.nz

Invercargill I-site Visitors Centre 108 Gala St, 03 214 6243

TSS Earnslaw & Walter Peak Farm tours, barbecue lunches, horse treks and cycling.

wildlife encounters. Farmstay options are available, 0800 304333, catlinscoaster.co.nz

STEWART ISLAND Stewart Island Flights Flights to Stewart Island, 03 218 9129, stewartislandflights.co.nz Bunkers Backpackers (BBH) 13 Argyle St, Halfmoon Bay, Stweart Island, 027 738 1796 bunkersbackpackers.co.nz

INVERCARG STAY

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CATLINS STAY Wrights Mill Lodge 865 Tahakopa Valley, 03 204 8424 Lazy Dolphin 529 Curio Bay Rd, 03 246 8579. lazydolphinlodge.co.nz Cedar Tree Lodge (BBH) 36 Hosptial Road, 027 611 7932. goldbox.catering@gmail.com Happy Inn Backpackers (BBH) 11 Shakespeare St, 03 417 4161. happyinn@clear.net.nz

Southern Comfort (BBH) 30 Thompson St, 03 218 3838 bbh.co.nz

Fernlea Backpackers (VIP) Moana St, Kaka Point, 03 412 8834

Tuatara Backpacker Lodge 30 Dee St, 03 214 0956, tuataralodge.co.nz

The Split Level (BBH) 9 Waikawa Rd, Owaka, 03 415 8304, thesplitlevel.co.nz

SOUTH SCENIC The beautiful road west of Invercargill towards Fiordland is known as the Southern Scenic Route.

Surat Bay Lodge (BBH) Surat Bay Rd, New Haven, 03 415 8099, suratbay.co.nz

Pepper Tree Hostel 121 Grey St, Palmerston, 06 335 4054, peppertreehostel.co.nz

Penguin Paradise Holiday Lodge (BBH) 612 Waikawa-Niagara Rd, Waikawa Village South Catlins, 03 2468 552, catlins-surf.co.nz/736.html

Grandma’s Place 146 Grey St, Palmerston North, 06 358 6928, grandmas-place.co.nz

Thomas Catlins Lodge & Holiday Park, 8 Clark St, Owaka 03 415 8333, thomascatlins.co.nz

The Globe Backpackers (VIP) 144 Palmerston St, Riverton, 03 234 8527, globebackpackers@xtra.co.nz

Wright’s Mill Lodge 865 Tahakopa Valley Rd, 03 204 8424 catlinsaccommodation.co.nz

Harbison Backpackers 5 Harbison St, Otautau, 03 225 8715, michdale@xtra.co.nz Shooters Backpackers (BBH) 73 Main St, Tuatapere, 03 226 6250

GORE Gore spans the Mataura river and boasts some lovely scenery in the Hokonui Hills and the Country and Western festival each June. Oakleight Motels 70 Hokonui Dr, 03 208 4863, oakleighmotel.co.za

THE CATLINS The beautiful Catlins is a sprawling mass of bush, forest and rivers, stretching all the way from Waipapa Point in Southland to Nugget Point in Otago. The best bit about the Catlins is the abundance of wildlife.

Dept of Conservation Office Don St, 03 214 4589

Catlins Community Info Centre 3 Main Rd, Owaka, South Otago, 03 415 8371, catlins.org.nz

Catlins Coaster Invercargill to Dunedin via the Catlins with many stops to the main natural attractions and

Elm Lodge Wildlife Tours Two-day camping trips, 0800 356 563, elmwildlifetours.co.nz

DUNEDIN Dunedin is Celtic for “Edinburgh” and many Scottish principles endure here. One thing the locals do much better than their Scots ancestors is play rugby, so if there’s a game on at Carisbrook (the “House of Pain”) while you’re in town, beg, borrow or steal to get yourself there. Dunedin Visitor Centre 48 The Octagon, 03 474 3300 Dept of Conservation Office 77 Stuart St, 03 477 0677 Penguin Patch 9 the Octagon, 03 471 8571, Email: penguinpatch@xtra.co.nz

DUNEDIN STAY Chalet Backpackers (BBH) 296 High St, 03 479 2075 chaletbackpackers.co.nz Dunedin Central Backpackers (BBH) 243 Moray Pl, 03 477 9985, centralbackpackers.co.nz Pavlova Palace (BBH) 74 Elm Row, 03 477 34728 pavlovapalace.co.nz Hogwartz (BBH)

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277 Rattray St, 03 474 1487, hogwartz.co.nz Kiwis Nest (BBH) 597 George St, 03 471 9540, kiwisnest.co.nz Leviathan Hotel 27 Queens Gardens, 0800 773 773, dunedinhotel.co.nz Manor House 28 Manor Place, 03 477 0484, manorhousebackpackers.co.nz On Top Backpackers (BBH) 12 Filleul St, cnr Moray Pl, 03 477 6121, ontopbackpackers.co.nz Pennys Backpackers (BBH) 6 Stafford St, 03 477 6027, pennys.co.nz Next Stop Backpackers 2 View St, 03 477 0477, nextstop.co.nz YHA Dunedin, Stafford Gables 71 Stafford St, 03 474 1919, yha.co.nz

DUNEDIN DO Baldwin Street In the Guinness Book of Records as the steepest street in the world.

Cadbury World 280 Cumberland St, 0800 223 2879, cadbury.co.nz Cosmic Corner Funk Store Check out the legal highs and chat to the staff about where to go for parties, events and the beautiful parts of New Zealand. 355 George St, 03 479 2949 Dunedin Public Art Gallery 30 The Octagon, 03 474 3240, dpagmail@dcc.govt.nz Oamaru Blue Penguin Colony View blue penguins just metres away every evening at dusk. Waterfront Rd, 1-1/2 hrs north of Dunedin, 03 433 1195, penguins.co.nz Parachute Experience Skydiving from a great height 03 489 4113, dropzone.com Sinclair Wetlands and Educational Centre Freedom or conducted walks over 5km of walkways. Backpacker and camping facilities. Rapid no 854 Clarendon/Berwick Rd

(signposted on SH1 30km south of Dunedin), 03 486 2654 Speights Brewery Heritage Tours 03 477 7697 speights.co.nz Royal Albatross Centre 03 478 0499, albatross.org.nz

OTAGO PENINSULA The Otago Peninsula is a beautiful stretch of rugged coast, home to a fascinating collection of rare and native birds such as the albatross and yellow-eyed penguin. Billy Browns (BBH) 423 Aramoana Rd, Port Chalmers, 03 472 8323, billybrowns.co.nz McFarmers Backpackers 774 Portobello Rd, Portobello, 02 5206 0640, mcfarmers@xtra.co.nz Pinot Lodge (BBH) 102 Barry Avenue, Cromwell, Fiordland 03 445 1260, pinotlodgenz.com

OTAGO DO Historic Fort Taiaroa An underground complex built

in the 1880s, this fortified stronghold has been inhabited since earliest Maori settlement of the area. Tours available at the Visitor Centre. Fletcher House, Broad Bay, 03 478 0180

ROXBURGH Villa Rose Backpackers 79 Scotland St, 03 446 8761, villarose.co.nz

Larnach Castle Australasia’s only castle. The architecture is amazing and the intricate details (including a foyer ceiling that took nearly seven years to build) are breathtaking. NZ Marine Studies Centre and Aquarium Run by the University of Otago, the Portobello Aquarium and Marine Biology Centre (near Quarantine Point) is a refuge for a diverse collection of fish and reptile life. 03 479 5826 Elm Wildlife Tours 0800 356 563, elmwildlifetours.co.nz

ALEXANDRA Alexandra and Roxburgh are the two main towns for fruit-picking work in the Central Otago region. Grasshopper Rock One of the world’s southernmost vineyards, situated on the Earnscleugh Rd. grasshopperrock.co.nz

IN THE SPOTLIGHT

OAMARU A charming little place noted for both its interesting collection of white granular limestone buildings and its large penguin population. Visitor Information Centre Thames St, 03 434 1656 Oamaru Blue Penguin Colony View blue penguins at dusk. Waterfront Rd, 03 433 1195, penguins.co.nz Ahuriri Backpackers (BBH) 5 Clay Cliffs Lane 03 438 9451 ahuririmotels.co.nz Chillawhile Backpackers (BBH) & Art Gallery 1 Frome St, Roberts Park, 03 437 0168, chillawhile.co.nz Coastal Backpackers (BBH) The Hall, Waianakarua Rd, All Day Bay, 03 439 5411, coastalbackpackers.co.nz Buscot Station (BBH) 732 Omarama, 03 438 9646, buscotstn@xtra.co.nz Empire Hotel (BBH) 13 Thames St, 03 434 3446, empirehotel@hotmail.com Old Bones Lodge (BBH) 468 Beach Rd, 03 434 8115, oldbones.co.nz YHA Oamaru, Red Kettle Seasonal (open September/ October to May/June only). Corner of Reed and Cross Sts, 03 434 5008, yha.co.nz Swaggers Backpackers (BBH) 25 Wansbeck St, 03 434 9999, swaggersbackpackers.co.nz

MOERAKI Just 30km south of Oamaru lies a remarkable collection of eerie giant boulders.

SHOTOVER CANYON SWING Nestled in the bush just out of Queenstown, is the world’s highest cliff jump. At 109m high with 60m of that being freefall, it proves to be the adventurous travellers ‘Must do’. There are 70+ different jump styles to choose from, including sliding into the canyon from a mini slippery dip, or being pushed backwards over the edge on a plastic chair! After you’ve fallen, take in the breathtaking Shotover River and await the return to reality. As soon as you’ve done it once you have an option to do it again at half price, so there is always the chance to get the thrill of a lifetime once more before you leave. If that adrenaline is not enough, check out the packages available to do the swing, plus jet boat/ skydiving or rafting.

Riverside Haven (BBH) 2328 SH1, Waianakarua, 03 439 5830, olivebranch.co.nz The Dubliner 105 Tiverton St, Palmerston, 03 465 8123

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Sloping off by train Train travel is fast becoming the transport of choice for skiers and boarders – why fly when you can watch the world go by? There’s something disorientating about being in one country, getting into a small box with wings for a few hours, and then stepping out in a completely different place. We’re not saying it’s a bad thing, but there’s something dreamlike about it and you can’t help but feel like you’ve missed out on something. After all, you’ve passed over countries you’ve never visited, sites you’ve never seen, and you missed all of it because you were watching Friends reruns on a screen the size of a book cover. Train travel immerses you in the journey: you can recline in your much-roomier-than-an-aeroplane-chair seat, plug your iPod in, and watch the stunning scenery pass you by. Skiers and boarders can see the rolling fields of rural France climb up into mountains, soon to be dusted with snow as you head for your chosen Alpine resort. When you’ve arrived at your destination you already feel like you’ve seen more of the world, without spending loads of money or making much effort: it’s like the travel equivalent of window shopping. If all this sounds like a load of balls to you, you can always book an overnight train journey and save yourself on accommodation for the night. This also means you can hit the slopes as soon as you arrive. But we reckon a day-time train trip beats the hell out of a few hours in a plane. After all the saying goes ‘It is not the destination, but the journey’ - although these destinations are pretty damn cool, too...

Alpe d’Huez, France From London to the slopes in: From London to the slopes in: eight hours, 20 minutes There’s almost always bright sunshine over the 250km of terrain at Alpe D’Huez, where four distinct skiing sectors are linked by lifts. First-timers will find the decent network of beginner slopes great to practice on, while everyone else can swish speedily down the long reds at Signal l’Homme. Apres ski: There are plenty of bars to while away the evenings in, along with live music venues and late-night clubs. Try the friendly O’Bar (Chalet La Clé, Route d’Huez) for a well-earned tipple or two after a day on the slopes. Chalet du Lac Besson ( 33 476 80 65 37) is by the frozen lake above a cross-country track. It can only be reached on skis or by snowmobile:well worth a visit for grills over an open fire.

Recommended route: Depart St Pancras on the 7.31am Eurostar, change in Paris and take the 12.41pm TGV, arriving Grenoble at 3.37pm; then a 75-minute transfer. alpedhuez.com

Montgenèvre, France From London to the slopes in: nine hours, 15 minutes Pretty, unpretentious and good value, Montegenèvre is highly recommended for first-time skiers because of the bright and sunny nursery slopes that lie right by the village. There’s plenty of off-piste action when it snows in the Gondrans bowl, Rocher de l’Aigle and off the Col de l’Alpet – take a guide to show you the best routes. Montegenèvre has a solid boarding scene, too. Many visitors opt for group lessons with ESF Mongenevre, which start from around £124 per person (six lots of two-and-a-half-hours’ tuition, morning or afternoons). ski-school-montgenevre.co.uk Apres ski: : It’s all about old-world charm rather than hardcore partying here, so spend your evenings making the most of the local restaurants. Try Le Capitaine’s (La Praya, 33 492 21 89 84) wood-fired pizzas, or if you’ve cash to splash, gourmet grub at La Table Blanche. hotellechaletblanc.com A great place to stay is the Hotel Alpis Cottia, which is a cosy spot in the heart of the village. Rooms start from £40 per night. hotelalpiscottia.com Recommended route: Depart St Pancras on the 9.31am Eurostar, change in Paris and take the 3.24pm TGV, arriving Oulx at 7.21pm; then a 25-minute taxi ride. Book rail travel with Rail Europe (raileurope.co.uk). montgenevre.com

Sauze d’Oulx, Italy From London to the slopes in: nine hours, 15 minutes Intrepid? Adventurous? Like to get off-the-beaten piste? You’ll go gaga for this area, as there are plenty of secret forest routes local guides can help you discover. Sauze d’Oulx’s tree-lined red runs are best suited to intermediate skiers, but advanced skiers can make the easy connection to Sestriere and the black runs at the top of Mount Motta and Mount Sises. Apres ski: This Italian village with its sweetly cobbled streets used to be known as ‘Ibiza-in-the-snow’. This thought might fill you with excitement or horror, but either way, the resort

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The Glacier Express

is still quite a boozy fave with Brits. That said, Sauze d’Oulx is more cocktails than clubbing these days, so start off the night with a few aperitivi at Caffe della Seggiovia (Piazza Assietta 4). Recommended route: Depart St Pancras on the 9.31am Eurostar, change in Paris and take the 3.24pm TGV, arriving at Oulx at 7.31pm; then it’s a 15-minute taxi ride. Again, try booking via raileurope.co.uk. sauzeonline.com

Söll, Austria From London to the slopes in: 18 hours If you’re planning a trip with mates of mixed skiing ability, Söll is a pretty good bet. The Ski Welt is the largest linked ski area in Austria, and has plenty of easy blues for beginners and harder reds for the more experienced. Advanced skiers will have to look a little harder to find a challenge, but there are some very steep runs at the Hohe Salve. Night skiing is huge here and the floodlit run from Hochsöll down to Söll is nothing short of exhilarating. Apres ski: The slopes here might be gentle, but the nightlife is quite the opposite. This cutesy Tirolean village gets raucous later and you’ll find skiers dancing on the tables at Moonlight Bar and other spots around town practically every night of the week. There must be something in the schnapps. moonlightbar-soell.com Recommended route: Depart St Pancras on the 3.31pm Eurostar, change in Paris and take the 8.20pm City Night Line sleeper train, arriving Worgl at 9.41am, then a 15-minute taxi ride. Book with Deutsche Bahn from £215 return in a sixberth couchette (bahn.com). wilderkaiser.info 78

Great Train Journeys Hooked on rail travel? Make your journey the whole holiday on one of these three epic train rides. GLACIER EXPRESS Route: Through the Swiss Alps Just the name of this train conjures up images of Swiss peaks and dizzying scenery. A ride on the Glacier Express is just a one-day trip, taking you from St Moritz to Zermatt, but the journey offers some of Switzerland’s finest panoramas. swisspasses.com INDIAN MAHARAJA DECCAN ODYSSEY Route: Mumbai to Delhi The epitome of luxury train travel, there’s a gym, beauty salon and massage centre on board, oh, and a number of well-stocked bars. The route connects Mumbai and Delhi via Rajasthan, so your journey could include cave excursions at Ajanta, a jungle safari at Sawai Madhopur and of course, that all important photo op at the Taj Mahal. theindianmaharaja.co.in EXPEDITION Route: Cuzco to Machu Picchu This three-hour journey begins in Poroy (eight miles from Cuzco) before winding through the Sacred Valley, the Andean foothills, and then following the path of the Urubamba river. For the best views of the river and Inca ruins, make sure you nab a seat on the left side of the train going up to Machu Picchu and on the right when you return. perurail.com

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Skied marks Not all of us skied out of the womb – some of us need a little help. After 30 years on this earth, Caroline Garnar learnt to ski and is here to tell the tale... just about “Can you show me how to do the snow plough again?” “No, you learnt it yesterday; you know how to do it.” “Yeah but it’s how you stop, so it’s pretty important. I really think I need a refresher.” “No, you will remember, just go.” Right... I peer down the slope, which is probably no steeper than a wheelchair ramp, but looks like a few shades off a sheer drop to me. I steel myself and ease away from my safe patch of flat ground. Within seconds I’ve rapidly gained speed and can feel panic setting in. Whizzing past my fellow learners, they wave me on thinking I must have got the hang of it as I’m going so quickly... they’re wrong. I’ve completely lost control. I desperately try to remember the slow plough: bend my knees, lean forwards and point my skis together... but I’m not slowing down. As I see an even bigger slope looming, I give up and sacrifice myself to the snow gods, throwing myself to the ground, skis akimbo and snow shovelled down the back of my jacket. I am learning to ski in Les Arcs 1950 in the French Alps. It’s my second day of morning lessons, and the short beginner’s slope, where I confidently weaved down the slight gradient on the first day, feels like a million years ago as everything I thought I had learnt has disappeared, along with my confidence and grace, which I am sure I had before – or maybe not. In Europe, many kids are taught how to ski as soon as they can stand on two legs (which is why every time our French instructor says, “come on, it’s easy,” I want to punch him in the face). When I was little, I was too busy at the beach to be worried about trying to catch the snow when it occasionally sprinkled itself on Thredbo. But I’ve water-skied, so how different can skiing on snow be? As it turns out, very. For starters, you’re going downhill. Every instinct in my body wants to lean away from the slope, but that causes you to lose balance. Then there are the ski boots, which feel like two lumps of concrete strapped to my feet, and the long, thin skis are constantly threatening to send my legs in opposite directions; forcing the rest of my body to choose sides or risk becoming a Damien Hurst-esque work of art. But Max, our instructor, doesn’t put up with any shit, and if you learn by being thrown in at the deep end, then a

French instructor is your man. To be fair, we are a tricky group. Three of us take to skiing like a duck to water and are weaving off-piste by day three. I am not one of these people. No, my journey is a bit of a rollercoaster... Day one, I am just so in awe of our surroundings that Max could have pushed me down the black run and I wouldn’t have cared (ish). Arriving in Les Arcs 1950 is like shrinking down Alice in Wonderland-style and finding yourself in a snow globe. The stunning iced mountains

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No dignity left...

glisten in the morning light, the gable-roofed lodges could be built out of gingerbread, and colourfully dressed skiers and boarders weave their way around you, excitedly making their way to their suited run, with 425km of blue, red and black runs on offer at the ski-in, ski-out resort. It is almost like visiting a different planet: one you had read about in school and had heard your friends talk about, but you have no idea how incredible it is until you see it for yourself. Heading to the beginner’s slope, we meet fiery Frenchman Max, who teaches us how to simply move about in our skis, put them on and take them off, and control our speed with the good-old snow plough. Trundling up the ‘magic carpet’ lift (like an uphill travelator), at 30 I am one of the oldest there, as French, German and Russian kids barely out of the womb whiz about me like lemmings. I have a go at applying what I’ve learnt and make my way down the slope... and I’m thrilled to find I reach the bottom intact. I just skied! I’m quite happy to spend the rest of the morning hanging out with the kids making my way up and down the slope, already imagining myself winning gold at the next winter Olympics. The next day, as you know, is a different story. Taking us straight onto the blue run, I feel like Bambi on ice again and just can’t get control of my skis. It doesn’t get much better

throughout the day, particularly as it snows heavily, meaning our vision is poor, the snow is harder to ski on, and it is bloody cold. Feeling disheartened, my Olympic hopes temporarily dashed, it is with trepidation that I head up the mountain on day three. But then something clicks. And, for once, it’s not my joints. Max shows me how to shift my weight from one leg to the other, sending me in ‘S’ shapes down the mountain. If I feel like I am going too quickly, I keep my weight on the bottom leg until I turn slightly up-slope to slow myself down. I’ve got it. I’m skiing! The sense of achievement is awesome, particularly as I am clearly far from being a natural and really had to work at it. I’d even managed to do it without punching Max in the face; instead I give him a big hug at the end of day three’s lesson. Perhaps his method of teaching isn’t so bad after all... To reward ourselves, our group head up to the highest point of the mountain and look out from the viewing platform over Les Arcs. With the sight of majestic mountain peaks smothered in snow coupled with the thrill of having learnt how to ski, I quite literally feel on top of the world.

Ski lessons with Spirit by Evolution 2 start from $286 for six morning lessons (2.5 hours each). Six days’ ski hire with boots starts from $126 (+$22 for helmet). spirit1950.com

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WHERE TO STAY Les Arcs 1950 is a village of lodge accommodation by Pierre et Vacances. This means your apartment building is equipped with lockers for your equipment so you can ski right out from your doorstep, and everything is at your gloved fingertips. The apartments range from studios for two people to four-bedroom affairs that can sleep 10. Rooms are cosily furnished, with big beds, soft lighting, sofas and a country cottage-style fully equipped kitchen. You also get a little balcony, if you can brave the cold. There is a huge Cinq Mondes Deep Nature Spa, with two levels containing a pool carved into the mountain itself, heated sensory showers, a sauna, hammam and a Jacuzzi bubbling away outside in the snow, naturally. Seven nights at Pierre &Vacances Le Village starts from £835 for a one-bedroom apartment sleeping four. ernalow.co.uk

Les Arcs 1950

WHERE TO EAT Look for the big red cow outside La Vache Rouge (French for, funnily enough, red cow), which specialises in, funnily enough, pork. Not really, beef. Tuck into mighty steaks, cooked to perfection, among cow print chairs and tables. For a traditional Savoyard tartiflette – a pan of sliced potatoes, ham and cheese – head for the La Perce Neige, and wear elasticated trousers. Or, for a really sophisticated night of gorgeously gourmet proportions, try Le Table des Lys. During the day, be sure to seek out the yurt in the snow, where you can duck in for some mulled wine with ham and cheese by the fire. For a mid-piste refresher, pull into The Bulle Café at the bottom of the Arcabulle lift for a slice of pizza while looking out at the 360° views.

WHERE TO PARTY Les Arcs 1950 is relatively quiet, although you can get a cable car to Les Arcs 2000 just up the mountain, where there’s a bowling alley, a bunch of bars and a club or two. Admittedly we were too worn out, bumped and bruised to head out at night, hitting the hay after a hearty meal and a few quiet ones at George’s Wine Bar, owned by a friendly Scot. However, on a high after our last day of skiing, we nearly gave up finding any form of nightlife in 1950 before we happened across O’Chaud . In we went for ‘one drink’ and out we came some five hours later, stumbling back to our apartments having done countless shots of the local liqueur, genepy, seen an awesome live singer whose stage was also the bar, and various other hazy goings-on that I have wisely chosen to forget. Enjoy. arc1950.com.

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Cash in on Christmas

It’s always better to give than receive over the Christmas holidays, and luckily for you, the Aussie job market is rather generous at the end of the year. It’s a good idea to take advantage of this and use the opportunity to make a few extra pennies while on your travels. A word to the wise, though – lots of backpackers arrive in Oz in November and December as summer kicks off, so if you want to make sure you find employment easily and you’ve got the edge, start looking in September or October to beat the rush. Oh, and don’t forget you need to be on a working visa in order to get a job over here.

Sorting mail As it’s commonly a time of mass card sending, Australia Post tends to struggle at Christmas, and so there are a variety of jobs available. If you don’t mind getting up off your backside, you can deliver mail by walking, bicycle or motorbike, and you can also take shifts sorting out mail and van driving. The downside? Mail sorting jobs tend to be overnight, and there will always be pesky dogs that take a dislike to you, but pay is good and you can pretty much guarantee that you’ll land a role if you’re punctual and show willing. auspost.com.au

Sales assistant The need for sales assistants starts to ramp up in September. It’ll be tiring work, but you should be able to get your hands on a nifty staff discount, all training will be provided, and the work will be flexible so you’ve got a bit of time to stuff your family’s stocking too (no incest jokes, please). You can expect to earn around AU$18.19 an hour, but the good news is experience within retail doesn’t often translate to much bigger bucks – so the average newbie will only be on a bit less than a manager. retailchoice.com/ JobSeeking/Australia

Office work Businesses always need temporary staff over Christmas when full-time staff head off on their holidays. Admin, accounting, secretarial and data entry jobs are always plentiful. They’re not 82

Words: Vicky Anscombe. Image: iStock

Ho ho holy crap Christmas is an expensive time of year. Make sure you’re not out of pocket by getting one of these temporary holiday positions

necessarily the most exciting jobs in the world, but you will be doing fairly easy work in an air-conditioned office, most likely from 9-5 with one hour for lunch. Even though your prospective employer will be aware that you’re a traveller, never turn up wearing casual clothing – and always bring a hard copy of your CV. Expect to earn around AU$19 an hour. Try seek.com.au for office work and finite.com.au for IT work.

Hospitality and bar work If you’re after a challenge, fast on your feet and adept at making tips, bar work during the Christmas rush can pay off. In order to work with booze, you’ll need an RSA (Responsible Service of Alcohol) certificate, which is a oneday course that costs around AU$65. Keep your eye out in hostels and local papers for openings (naturally, we list bar vacancies too) and don’t be afraid to ask other backpackers if they know of any openings. If you’re working in the outback, you may find yourself better off – you can earn up to AU$300 in tips every week, and your accommodation and meals are paid for. However, your basic rate will be lower. backpackerjobboard.com.au/jobs/bar-work-jobs

Au pair/nannying If you’re a dab-hand at a bedtime story and happy to have your nails painted pink, you’ll find plenty of nannying work over and around the Christmas period as parents’ work and social schedules pick up. Most nannies get to live with the family, so look on the bright side; yes, you’ll work long hours, but your commute’s a breeze. Expect to earn around AU$230 per week, with all meals included. nannyaustralia.com

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One of our amazing overnight stops - Lake Tekapo, South Island, NZ

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