To From NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2012
WINTER DESTINATIONS AND HOLIDAY TRAVELS To From
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WITHIN THESE PAGES 2
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CASAS DE STYLE: Peeking inside the space of two Peruvian designers
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FEATURES Punta Cana
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Teaching in Thailand 54
Ghost Territory 46 Mummers Parade: Philadelphia’s New Year’s Day Parade 50 The Great Indoors: Chicago Edition 68 Winter Beauty 82 Sole Searching 84 Travel Resolutions for 2013 102
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SHOPPING Editor’s Wish List 12 Here There Everywhere 14 Warm Russia 16 Shopping in Florence 57
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IN EVERY ISSUE Ramblings from the Editor 9 Contributors 10 Language Lessons 18 News Travels... 20 Book It 24 Cool Hotel 28 Blogger Profile: Vacation Gals 62 Let’s Eat: Simply Scandinavian 92
COVER: Claudia Bertolero’s showroom in Lima, Peru. Bertolero is one of the country’s emerging fashion designers. To From
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Getting a bit of a workout on the ledge of Willis Tower (formerly the Sears Tower).
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RAMBLINGS FROM THE EDITOR
It’s getting cold out there! I realize that many of you are in warmer climates and in a way, you’re lucky. You don’t have the burden of dealing with frigid temperatures, shoveling the snow, waiting 15 minutes for the car to warm up and all the other things that come with winter. Since I grew up with four seasons, I don’t know any other way of life and have embraced these chilly months. To me this means good things like sweaters (sweatshirts on the weekends), cute coats and warm drinks. In fact, I think if you’re one of those people who live in the warmer climates, you should seek adventure in an urban winterland. If Chicago is in your travel plans, we have a few ideas starting on page 68 (“The Great Indoors”) where you can experience the city when you need to take a break from the cold. Of course, I can’t blame you if you’re insistent on seeking warmer climates this season. (Punta Cana sounds nice, doesn’t it? You can read more about Megan McDonough’s recent experience there on page 32.) But warm or cold, wherever your plans may take you, I hope you enjoy the season. Happy Holidays,
Editor & Founder
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CONTRIBUTORS
LEORA NOVICK CONTRIBUTING EDITOR
MEGAN EILEEN MCDONOUGH CONTRIBUTING EDITOR
Leora is a freelance travel writer based in New York City with an extensive background in fashion. A former executive for Burberry, she now comments on style around the world at An American Girl in Transit. Leora is most interested in the different definitions of beauty around the world.
Megan is a freelance travel and fashion writer based in New York City. She also runs Bohemian Trails, a travel blog covering global art, culture and off the beaten path destinations for the avant-garde traveler. Her travels have taken her to South America, Europe, Mexico and Egypt.
COLLEEN SETCHELL is a writer, photographer and enthusiastic explorer who’s jumped off cliffs in South Africa, dived with sharks in Egypt, been lost in the spice market in Istanbul and eaten unpronounceable things in Gambia. She calls England home but is an explorer at heart, at her happiest when she’s living out of a suitcase and always excited to see where she’ll end up next.
PETRA KETELAARS COPY EDITOR Petra is a language coach, currently living in Chicago. Not surprisingly, she has a fascination with languages and with grammar - in each of the five languages she speaks. When she is not teaching languages to adults, she is planning her next journey, be it abroad or inside the US. During her 2 years in the US, she has seen 14 states (and plans to see quite a few more before she leaves). She loves experiencing different cultures, seeing beautiful art or nature, and enjoying local delicacies. She is also a runner and a diver.
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GEORGINA ANDERSON is a fashion journalism student and freelance journalist living in London. She spent most of her childhood living across Europe with her parents, which has fuelled her desire to see more of the world.
ANDREA COAN is a freelance photographer. In her words: “Nothing speaks to me quite like photography. Years ago a dear friend of mine literally shoved a camera into my hands, and I’ve been in love ever since. No matter the subject, I always strive to put my heart into everything I shoot. This is my art, my passion, and my only hope is that it shows through my work.”
JESSICA SMITH is a freelance writer and amateur videographer currently based out of Ocala, Florida. She has spent years working at guest ranches around the Rocky Mountain West and traveling around the United States. For more information on Jessica and to follow along with her on her adventures, you can visit her website at The Forgotten Compass.
DANIELLE SCHISLER DESIGN INTERN Danielle is a freelance print designer living in Chicago. A native Oregonian, she graduated from the University of Oregon in 2010 with degrees in magazine journalism and economics and a minor in business. She’s worked on various magazines as both a designer and art director and has also worked for a few businesses creating marketing and branding materials. When she’s not glued to design programs or climbing out of lava casts (pictured left), Danielle enjoys wandering around in nature, eating copious amounts of frozen yogurt, and making up names for her future puppies. To From
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All I Want For Christmas... EDITOR’S WISH LIST MARIAH CAREY CD “One of the local radio stations in Chicago plays holiday music starting Thanksgiving Day. Whenever ‘All I Want for Christmas’ comes on, I turn up the volume. When the song is over, I YouTube the video just to hear it again. It’s probably time to get the CD.” RED WINE “Although wine is perfect any time of year, this is the season for using it to make glögg. And I’ll be making a lot of it!”
GIRLS DVD “I enjoy shows where NYC is the backdrop and have been waiting for something to fill my Sex and the City and Friends void. Girls might just do it!”
LONG HAIR “I donated 10-1/2 inches of my hair to Locks of Love back in August. I was happy to do this (and would do it again!), but I’ve been waiting for my hair to grow back since!” SOME TURKISH FLAIR “I am in love with the fabrics and luxuriousness of these pillows.” NEW BOOTS “My last pair of boots lasted me three winters before my husband broke the zipper last winter. (In all fairness, it was a situation where he was trying to help.) I’m currently eyeing these Frye boots.”
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A TRIP TO LONDON “I’m hoping for a glimpse of the Duchess, but a stroll through Harrods will work just as well....and speaking of Harrods I want this Armani dress.” from Harrods’ website
MOMOFUKU COOKBOOK “I’ve never been to Momofuku Milk Bar but I certainly know about its crack pie and made it after finding the recipe in a food magazine. I have room for more Momofuku in my life - and in my kitchen!”
A NEW CAMERA “This Canon EOS 5D Mark III is awesome and might curb my Instagram addiction. Maybe.”
COTE D’OR DARK CHOCOLATE WITH CARAMELIZED PISTACHIOS “Pistachio is the most underrated flavor (and nut!) in the US. The Europeans get it. And they get dark chocolate. Mmmmm....”
BRI EMERY’S STYLE. “I love Bri’s [the blogger behind Design Love Fest] style and would do pretty much anything for a personal shopping session with her. I won’t hold my breath though!”
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LONDON MAP MUG Whittard Chelsea, $16.50
MILAN METRO CUFF designhype, $37
HERE THERE EVERYWHERE MAPS TO BE ENJOYED ANYWHERE NYC MAP
UncommonGoods, $50
TRAVEL MANAGER TOKYO TRANSIT SYSTEM Japanistic, $24.95
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“All you need is the plan, the road map, and the courage to press on to your destination.”
LOS ANGELES NEIGHBORHOOD MAP Ork Posters $22
-EARL NIGHTINGALE
PARIS DRESS WALL ART Annex, $195NZD
(Approximately 3ft x 2ft)
ANTARCTICA MAP LIGHT SWITCH PLATE Creative Ordinary Etsy shop, $10
SAN FRANCISCO POINTS OF INTEREST MAP WRAPPING PAPER Paper Source, $4.95
MAP: MacDaddy World Of Design
warm Russia
PLEASANTLY PLUM We are mad for plum. But more than that, we love that this fitted coat (with a faux fur collar) exudes winter fabulousity. ASOS, $263.85
THINGS WE WOULD USE TO STAY WARM DURING A RUSSIAN WINTER
TOP LAYER Gap sweaters never fail to keep us warm. (Although it probably wouldn’t hurt to throw on an undershirt or two!) GAP, 54.95
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ESKIMO BOOTS If it’s good enough for an Eskimo, we gather it would be good to get through a Russian winter. MOU, $379
FAUX FUR, REAL WARMTH Don’t bother looking for something knitted. You need something more substantial...and authentic looking. GO JANE, $27.60
SWEATER TIGHTS Since it’s not quite skirt season, these will keep you warm under your pants our version of long underwear. TARGET, $12.00
BEAR GLOVES Big, furry and faux. We’re going to guess your paws will be sweating in these. (That’s a good thing!) THE WARMING STORE, $26.99
EFFEN COLD Pour this in a warm drink or straight down the hatch. (Since this is Russian themed, it’s the right thing to do). EFFENVODKA.COM (check for availability in your area)
IVANA: Do you know how we keep warm in Russia? AUSTIN: I can guess, baby. IVANA: We play chess. AUSTIN: I guessed wrong. -Austin Powers: The Spy who shagged me
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LANGUAGE LESSON
Железнодорожная станция [Zheh-leh-zno-roh-zhna-yah stahn-tsee-yah] TRAIN STATION
Машинист [mah-shee-neest] OPERATOR шапка [shapka] HAT
куртка [koort-ka] COAT
[Yugozapadnaya] South-Western (stop)
сапоги [sah-poh-gee] BOOTS
Photo: Arshavsky Pavel
ЗДРАВСТВУЙТЕ РОССИИ [Zdrast-vooy-tye Rah-see-yah]
HELLO RUSSIA! поезд [poy-yest] TRAIN
сумка [soomka] BAG
БОЛЬШЕ [BOLSHE]: MORE Hi! привет [pree-vet] Where do I buy tickets? Где я могу купить билеты? [Gdeh yah mah-goo koo-peet bee-let?] Which station is this? Какая станция? [Kah-koy-ah stahn-tsee-yah?] I’m really cold. Я замерз. [Ya zah-mehrz.] Where did you find those boots? Где вы нашли эти сапоги? [Gdeh vee nah-shlee eh-tee sah-poh-gee?] Where can I find cheap vodka? Где я могу купить дешевую водку? [Gdeh yah mah-goo koo-pet dah-sha-voo-day-yoo vohd-koo.] To From
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NEWS TRAVELS... HARRY POTTER™: THE EXHIBITION Fans of the movie franchise can flock to Harry Potter: The Exhibition, which has returned to Discovery Times Square after its successful run in NYC back in 2011. The 15,000-square-foot exhibition includes artifacts and costumes from all eight Harry Potter films. Hurry! The exhibit ends April 7, 2013. HOW FAR ARE YOU TRAVELING FOR THE HOLIDAYS? SURVEY SAYS YOU’RE NOT
THE FIRST ISSUE IS FREE! NOTCH is India’s first interactive, digital publication showcasing contemporary India to a global audience. With a strong focus on entertainment, NOTCH showcases lifestyle through fashion, design, art, food and travel. The engaging content is available to subscribers on Kindle, iPad and Android tablets. The complimentary inaugural issue is also available as a downloadable PDF on the NOTCH website. A yearly subscription is available for $9.99 CONTEST: “PAINT THE PLANE”
ShopAtHome.com, the largest coupon search engine that connects upwards of 12 million consumers each month to the best deals and cash back savings, released results of a survey on holiday travel buying behavior. Surprise surprise, the report states that 42% are staying put during the holidays. (Maybe your relatives are coming to you?)
TRÈS COOL: AN EDUCATION IN FRANCE The American Council for International Students (ACIS) is offering four new school trips throughout France, giving teachers the perfect opportunity to educate their students by immersing them in French culture and life. Trip activities include venturing through the ins and outs of Paris, taking part in a Cezanne-inspired painting workshop in Aix-en Provence, visiting the stunning castles of the Loire Valley, and staying in a home stay in the Alps. Educators can find information at us.rendezvousenfrance.com.
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(If home-schooled, write “Home” and indicate local public school of record.)
Alaska Airlines, in partnership with the Hawaii State Department of Education and the Hawaii Association of Independent Schools, invites school-aged children in Hawaii to create artwork honoring the unique culture of the Alo-
ha State that may adorn a Boeing 737-800. Good luck to all the entries. We can’t wait to see the plane winner in January!
FLY FISHING: WE’RE SO IN For those who always wanted to fulfill their A River Runs Through It dreams, the Cakebread Ranch - western Wyoming’s premier private access fly fishing ranch - has announced the opening of its exclusive private waters on the banks of the Salt River to small groups each day. The Salt River is one of America’s greatest fisheries, offering visitors to the Yellowstone and Jackson area a unique fly fishing experience away from crowds. Visitors can expect to enjoy solitude, as the ranch is open to a limited few each day, giving anglers plenty of space to cast to eager trout. For more information visit troutflyfishingwyoming.com
WANT TO GET MARRIED IN NYC? Calling all brides! TheKnot.com is putting out a call for entries for The Knot Dream Wedding, the first-ever live streamed wedding on The Knot.com, Facebook, Google+, The Knot YouTube channel, MSN Living and other media platforms straight from iconic Citi Pond at Bryant Park in New York City on February 14, 2013. Starting NOW, brides across America can enter at TheKnot.com/ dreamwedding for a chance to win a wedding with every single element provided. From the gown to the groom’s cake, the biggest social network of brides on the planet, their moms, friends and anyone who likes a good wedding will choose each element of the lucky couple’s big day! (Editor’s Note: the prizes look amazing!)
A SERVICE WE CAN GET BEHIND With Thanksgiving and Christmas fast approaching, air travel in the United States is expected to surge. The last two weeks of December typically see tens of millions of people boarding planes for domestic and international travel. Naturally, more people moving through airport terminals mean more opportunity for items of value to be lost or forgotten. Airport Lost and Found connects the lost and found divisions of more than 9,000 airports and 900 airlines across the world, including eateries, shopping outlets and other commercial spaces inside airport terminals. When an airline passenger realizes that he has misplaced something of value, he can navigate to the Airport Lost and Found website and make a claim. The website’s interface allows for the entry of as much detail as the user can provide. Generally, more information raises the odds of quick recovery. Once a claim is submitted, the process of matching that claim against the database begins. As a global and fully integrated system, Airport Lost and Found boasts a 78% success rate in returning a wide range of valuables to their rightful owners. We ♥ this! To From
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Paris in the rain.
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BOOK IT A few good reads whether you’re traveling or need an escape from your holiday plans. We love books at To From and hope that you’ll make the time to read a few of these recommendations whether you’re on the plane, in a hotel room or simply taking a break from your holiday plans. If it’s the end of the day, go ahead and pour yourself a glass of wine. You’ll quickly find that books and vino make a perfect match! P.S. If you’re wondering about that glass of Syrah-Viognier, it really was good and helped set the mood for the book. (Who knew that a French wine would pair well with Chicago history? )
THRILLING AFTER A LONG DAY OF SIGHTSEEING SIN IN THE SECOND CITY: MADAMS, MINISTERS, PLAYBOYS, AND THE BATTLE FOR AMERICA’S SOUL by Karen Abbott In this nonfiction, author Karen Abbott takes a look into one of Chicago’s most famous brothels. Located in the south side Levee district, the Everleigh Club was run by two sisters (of the same name) and frequented by notable Chicago men during that time. With its popularity, The Club was protected by the press (which had no gain in outing the high-profiled clients who frequented the house) and the political figures who had their own agenda in keeping the business open - politically, financially and perhaps, recreationally. Of course, with success come obstacles in the form of competitors, religious figures and political reformers. While the Everleigh sisters knew how to deal with obstacles at their front door (e.g. charmed nosy journalists), they weren’t able to keep that momentum behind the scenes. This is a perfect read for those interested in Chicago’s history. To From
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YOU’LL FINISH THIS ON THE PLANE GONE GIRL by Gillian Flynn Gone Girl is not a book that you’ll want to put down. When there is a missing woman and a suspicious husband involved, it’s nearly impossible NOT to keep turning the page - mainly because you want to make sense of the limited information you are presented with. Between the diary entries of Amy Dunne and the narration of her husband Nick, the reader is left wondering how the story is going to play itself out. We don’t want to give anything away, but we do want to say this: read this book NOW.
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♥ SWEDISH WRITERS
THE 100 YEAR-OLD MAN WHO CLIMBED OUT THE WINDOW AND DISAPPEARED by Jonas Jonasson With the popularity of The Girl with the Dragan Tattoo, readers are hungry for more Swedish writers. And Jonas Jonassson delivers. With the morals of Lisbeth Sanders but the charm of Forest Grump, centenarian Allan Karlsson climbs out of a window to avoid celebrating his 100th birthday at a place he doesn’t want to be. Where he’s going, he doesn’t know. His escape takes him on an unpredictable adventure that is reflective of the experiences (drinks with Truman, meeting Mao and developing a friendship with Einstein - Herbert not Albert) during his long life. Quirky and amusing - we loved The 100-Year-Old Man!
READ BEFORE SEEING THE MOVIE EXTREMELY LOUD AND INCREDIBLY CLOSE by Jonathan Safran Foer
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Although this book has been out for six years, we just discovered it and can adamantly say that it’s worth reading. The story follows 9-year-old Oskar Schell as he attempts to finish a game that he’s sure his father started before entering the World Trade Center on 9/11. As Oskar is playing his game and finds more clues, he also encounters new friends along the way. He and all the people in his life - old and new - end up finding more than they expected.
KAKSLAUTTANEN, FINLAND What do we really know about Finland? Ask an average American and perhaps you might hear something about the country’s devotion to Christmas or that eating elk meat is a thing there. Some might even know about the Aurora Borealis (Northern Lights) that appear nightly for 9 months of the year (late August through April). If that wasn’t as amazing in itself, Hotel Kakslauttanen provides accommodations that include glass igloos to watch the stars go by from the comfort of your room. If that’s a little too warm for your taste, you might prefer the snow igloos that are also available. Brrrr.......
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W THE thVeIE glass igloo,
In or out of e light show! you won’t want to miss th
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Photo: Brian Anderson (Gingercat Pictures) To From 31
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The result is a perfect blend of luxury and cultural availability.
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When you aren’t indulging in luxurious spa treatments or sampling international cuisine,there is a whole other world outside your resort just waiting to be discovered.
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TRAVEL
TIPS
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CASAS
STYLE FASHION IN PERU
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A COLUMN BY LEORA NOVICK
henever the cold weather starts to set in, marking a long winter ahead, I like to look back on photos and memories of warmer, sunnier times. With New York Fashion Week just a beautiful memory now, it seems the perfect time to reminisce over my fashion finds in Peru, just one short year ago. Peru may have its seasons reversed (making it the perfect winter getaway!), but it still follows the same fashion calendar as the rest of the industry. During my stay in Lima - the capital city and design hub of Peru - I had the pleasure of meeting with two of the country’s most eminent fashion designers: Jose Miguel Valdivia and Claudia Bertolero. I met Jose first, waiting outside my hotel as he sped up in a taxi, and whisked me off to one of the local design school’s year-end fashion shows. We then visited his home and atelier, on a quiet side street in the beautiful Miraflores district. Clearly the home of an artistic soul, Valdivia’s studio is colorful and eclectic. As I wandered through his workspace, I noticed the numerous accolades hidden on a shelf, and buried amongst a pile of paperwork. A giant spool of thread is
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JUST ANOTHER DAY: Leora is greeted by a camera crew along with her hostess Claudia Bertolero - one of Peru’s rising fashion designers
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ATELIER MOTIVE: Valdivia surrounded by his colorful collection
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BERTOLERO’S “DESIGNS HAVE QUITE A PERSONAL FEEL...”
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propped in one corner, and the backyard is home to a giant bull statue, housed in the empty pool. The entire bottom floor of the house is devoted to a showroom, fitting room, and office space, while the second floor holds a room for the onsite seamstresses. It is a bright and welcoming space, ideal for the designer to sit and sketch as he soaks in the Lima sun.
ART COLLECTION: Bertolero’s showroom [pictured here], jewelry [bottom left] and leather collection [bottom right]
Brightly hued furs - Valdivia is very adamant that he only uses the fur off of animals that have died of natural deaths and not killed for their fur - spilled off a hanging rack, while a carved wooden bench held piles of llama throws, just begging to be touched. Like many Peruvian designers, Valdivia strives to pay homage to Peru’s traditional roots while maintaining a modern and current collection. His use of llama and alpaca hair, and pima cotton reflect this effort. In addition to nurturing these traditional materials, Valdivia employs local seamstresses to create these garments, doing his part for the Peruvian economy. He explained to me that there was a huge effort in Peru to maintain the sewing traditions, while introducing machines to move these designs into the modern century. Instead of creating one unique garment, seamstresses are being trained in the art of inter-
“Meeting with these two rising designers gave me a completely FRESH PERSPECTIVE on Peruvian design.” changeable parts, allowing them to create larger quantities of garments, and therefore create a larger income for themselves and their families. The next day I went to visit Claudia Bertolero, another Peruvian fashion designer. Claudia had emailed me the 44 To From
night before, telling me about a new fashion TV show she was filming about the world of fashion for Latin women, and that I should expect camera crews during my visit. Not sure what to expect, I showed up and was instantly wired up with a microphone and instructed that my entire visit was going to be filmed. Claudia met me at her door and invited me in to her beautiful home and studio. We held a small interviewing session, where I was able to share my views on global fashion with Claudia and her Latin American viewers, and ask Claudia a few questions about her views on global fashion. Finally, it was time to preview her atelier and famed designs. The inspiration behind Claudia’s design ultimately stems from her love of horses. The paso plays a huge role not only in her life, but also in Peruvian history. Claudia is inspired each season to pull ideas from the equestrian world into her collections. Naturally leather
ROLES REVERSED: The designer interviews Leora is a large focus on both her ready to wear and accessory lines, stemming from the stitched leather saddles used in riding. Another heavily used accent is silver, particularly in her accessories line. The foot bed of the rider serves as the inspiration behind the numerous triangle shapes present in Bertolero’s collections. If you look closely at many of her pieces, you will typically find at least one of these elements present. Utilizing her degree in textile design, Bertolero typically creates her own fabrics, at times combining unlikely elements such as copper, leather, and alpaca. Her designs have quite a personal feel, reflected in her advertising campaigns, which exclusively feature the designer, and oftentimes her beloved horses. The final touch for Bertolero is the rising sun, featured on her hang tags. This represents a quest for improvement, and the sense of always moving ahead. Meeting with these two rising designers gave me a completely fresh perspective on Peruvian design. While traditional elements and history are still very important, the fashion community is starting to look forward, incorporating key fabrics into a modern silhouette for more wearability. Keep an eye on Peruvian fashion, as I predict some breakout pieces coming soon from the former Inca Empire. FOR THE LOVE OF PASOS: Bertolero’s studio
-Leora Novick, Contributing Editor To From
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GHOST TERRITOR
DISCOVER FOSSILS, GEORGIA O’KEEF AND HIKING TRAILS AT ONE LOCATIO IN NORTH CENTRAL NEW MEXICO by Jessica Smith 46 To From
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nown as “The Land of Enchantment” New Mexico draws a tremendous number of visitors each year. With the mild climate characteristic of the Southwest still holding, it remains a good time of year to visit. If you find yourself in this part of the country, break away from the beaten path and get to know the quiet corners of the state. Just 65 miles Northwest of Santa Fe rests the historic and beautiful Ghost Ranch, waiting to be explored. Known locally as El Ranchos de los Brujos (“The Ranch of the Witches”) the property is now–ironically–owned by the Presbyterian Church and frequently used as a conference and education center. Beyond the classes offered at The Ghost Ranch, many visitors come for the hiking trails and the museums located on the property. The ranch has been the site of multiple discoveries in the field of paleontology, including the finding of the first Coelophysis which has since been named New Mexico’s State Fossil. Both a paleontology museum and an anthropology museum are on site for visitors to learn more about the history of the ranch through its ancient wildlife and the people of the area that called it home.
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FE’S HOME ON
Cholla cactus.
“...break away from the beaten path and get to know the quiet corners of the state.” Also known as the former home of artist Georgia O’Keefe, the Ghost Ranch provides Southwestern desert scenery that has been inspiring its visitors for decades. While O’Keefe never owned the ranch in its entirety, she spent large amounts of time there and eventually purchased the studio she had been renting on the ranch. Tours are available on request for those who are interested in learning more about her time at the ranch and her famous works which it inspired. Of course, the best way to get out and explore the ranch scenery is on foot, taking on one of the hiking trails that starts on the property. A wonderful path for the laid back To From
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hiker is the Box Canyon Trail which is a four-mile round trip hike up a gradual elevation increase (from 6,400 feet to 6,900 feet and back down again). This trail offers a fair amount of shade as it crosses back and forth over a creek bed up a canyon, dead-ending in an amphitheater of orange rock canyon walls. If you’re traveling with your furry companion, the trails at the Ghost Ranch are pet-friendly [so long as they are kept on a leash] and provide a great place for both of you to stop and stretch your legs. Welcome to the ranch!
Through its scenery and history, the Ghost Ranch provides a great way to get to know New Mexico. Entirely worth the drive away from the main stream New Mexican tourist route, Ghost Ranch has been a jewel in the crown to the Land of Enchantment for decades and makes a great addition to any southwestern travel itinerary.
Box Canyon Trail
“The best way to get out and explore the ranch scenery is on foot.” Lodge on the ranch [pictured here and at left]
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Jessica Smith is a is a freelance writer and amateur videographer. You can visit her website at www.forgettencompass.com.
CUTE PUP! Jessica’s dog Breezy taking a break from hiking on the Box Canyon Trail. To From
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Mummer’s’ Day A GLIMPSE INTO HOW PHILADELPHIA CELEBRATES THE NEW YEAR photography by Andrea Coan
Last year, photographer Andrea Coan logged a good amount of mileage traveling to spend time with her family and friends for the holidays. While Christmas was spent in the midwest, she spent the latter part of her holidays on the east coast for Christmas: Part Two. In her words: “After a lovely Christmas morning (celebrated on New Year’s Eve) at my mom’s house, we went to Philly to spend New Year’s Day in the city. Besides continuing my little obsession with taking photographs of Del [my baby niece), we got the opportunity to enjoy the Mummers Parade. I would like to add that I have never experienced anything like it.”
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Previous pages: Some of the costumes, music and characters that make up the Philadelphia Mummers Parade. Top: Andrea’s mother (left) and husband (right) snacking as the pageantry passes through. Bottom: Parade spectators enjoying the city’s annual tradition. For more on this post visit Andrea’s blog at www.andreacoan.com.
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You’ve probably heard of it before. It is known by various names such as TEFL (Teaching English as a foreign language), ESL (English as a second language), EFL (English as a foreign language) or TESOL (Teaching English for speakers of other languages). Faced with so many options, how do you know which is the right course for you? As someone who has undergone the training and is currently teaching English abroad, let me share with you some things I have learned along the way. All courses teach roughly the same thing. Each program will teach you how to teach English to a person whose first language is not English. There isn’t one governing body for TEFL courses around the world. Each course has a similar curriculum and will have sections on grammar, classroom management/discipline, lesson planning, teaching methods/processes, learning problems that potential learners might have in that specific country, dress code, local cultures/traditions, more grammar, differences between teaching adults and children, games/entertainment and much more. Each country will have different rules when it comes to teaching methods.
TEACHING ENGLISH 101:
Getting the most of your TESOL course
BY COLLEEN SETCHELL
The most important part of any teacher training course is the practicals. There are online courses available but studying something online doesn’t really prepare you for standing in front of 40 over-enthusiastic children. Teaching practicals give you the opportunity to experience real teaching with real students. It allows your course instructor to give you feedback so you know where your strengths lie and what you need to work on. Most importantly, it allows you to see if you really enjoy it. Many jobs specify a certain number of practical teaching hours so consider this point very carefully before you sign up with an online course even if the cost is tempting. 54 To From
Above: Colleen teaching 4 year olds at Sooo Fun Nursery in Thailand. At left: Teaching adults during one of her practicals.
You will be required to do some work on weekends and evenings during the course. It isn’t excessive, but you need to study for tests and plan lessons for your practicals. Don’t be afraid to ask the course instructor for help - that’s what they are there for. The course that I did had three written tests and eight teaching practicals, each of which counted towards the final mark. Also counting towards your final mark: lesson materials, teamwork and attitude as well as a conducting a private lesson to a local person which you plan, design and report back on in class. Should the course guarantee you a job? This might sound perfect but you then have no control of where you end up teaching or living. Yes, some do offer job guarantees but there are other factors to consider, including your placement, what facilities they have, how many hours you would be required to teach and of course, how much you would be paid. While a job placement “guarantee” does not necessarily equate to a scam, it’s still something to be cautious of. The course I completed spent time showing us how to complete our new CVs, how to conduct ourselves in a potential job interview and what questions to ask about the teaching position. I felt I had more control over my future career doing it this way. Do NOT assume that employment rules work the same way as in your home country. Find out if they pay directly into your bank account and on which day. Other questions to ask: • Do they offer health insurance? • Do they do the tax deductions or do you have to pay them yourself? • How many hours will you spend teaching? • How many hours do you have to be in the school each day? • Do lesson plans have to be done in advance? • Do they help with accommodations? • Do they help with working permits or visas? Employment can be either at a school or at a language school where people come after school or work to do extra English lessons. The course that I did shared a large number of industry contacts with all the students and encouraged us to email them with our newly created CVs. This was a great start and proved to be an effective way of networking. I was employed by one of these contacts so it clearly worked for me. We were also encouraged to sign on
to Ajarn (www.ajarn.com), which is a website specifically for teachers looking for jobs in Thailand. What can you expect to earn? In Thailand, salaries for English teachers range from around 30,000 to 38,000 bhats (about $979 to $1240 USD) depending on your experience and your qualifications. You generally get a few additional holidays as well as the school holidays and some companies will contribute to some sort of health insurance/medical cover. It is possible to find work without a degree but it is much harder and the salary may not be as competitive. For those who are curious, I did my course with Samui TEFL on the tropical island of Koh Samui, Thailand. For me, this was learning in paradise. Do your research, and perhaps it will lead to an ideal learning experience of your own.
Tips on finding the right teaching program ◊ Ask for the course curriculum so you can see exactly what it covers. ◊ Ask how many hours of practical teaching you will do and what the schools are like where you will be teaching. ◊ Ask how quickly students from the course usually find jobs and what the average salary is. ◊ Ask about the cost of accommodations in the area where you will be teaching ◊ Ask if there is a website that you can register on once qualified (this will allow you to see how many others are looking for jobs and what the salaries are).
Colleen Setchell is a writer, photographer and enthusiastic explorer currently teaching English in Thailand. To From
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An American Girl in Transit a blog about finding style and culture around the world
Follow my travels around the world in pursuit of local fashion, culture, art, design, and even food!
anamericangirlintransit.com
A SHOPPING GUIDE TO FLORENCE BY GEORGINA ANDERSON
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Il Papiro paper store
F
rom the vibrant and rustic markets to the chic boutiques hiding down the tiniest of back streets, Florence is a shopping delight at every turn. With the holiday season in full swing, the experience is further heightened by twinkling fairy lights decorating the city.
The main shopping areas to aim for would be Via dei Pan-
zani running towards the Duomo all the way to Piazza della Signoria and designer haven Via dei Tornabuoni. The former is where you’ll find great high street chains such as lingerie favourite Intimissimi and Italian womenswear classics Stefanel and Sisley. The latter is what you’ll aim for if you’re looking to splash the cash. But even if your budget is a little more modest, it’s still lovely to walk down these streets to soak up the oh-so-chic atmosphere.
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TEMPORARY STORE
Via della Vigna Nuova www.temporarystore.it Beautiful leather handbags and accessories at great prices. Make sure you check out the little room behind the till which is where all the discounted and sale items are displayed. And don’t be afraid to ask for money off, I managed to barter 20% off a tan leather clutch.
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Temporary Store
SHOPS WORTH VISITING
BOUTIQUE NADINE
Via de’ Benci www.boutiquenadine.it The best of vintage, handmade and new clothes and accessories housed under one roof. What makes this boutique different is the hand crafted jewelry made from antique Chanel buttons and the owner’s very own hand sewn collection.
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IL PAPIRO
Via Cavour www.ilpapirofirenze.it I stumbled upon this tiny stationary maker on the way back to my B&B one evening. I heard interesting sounds coming from inside and peeked in the window to see a traditional printing machine operated by hand. I couldn’t resist a look in the little shop and instantly wanted to buy every single vibrant print they stocked.
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Boutique Nadine
COIN
Via dei Calzaiuoli www.coin.it This is Italy’s most famous department store. The beauty department is a dream to walk through but make sure you arrive early because it can get seriously busy.
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MAX&CO.
Via Calzaiuoli www.maxandco.com/it Not the cheapest of the Italian chains but definitely one of the best. Think Zara (great for smart work wear) but slightly more up market. They also do stunning evening wear and super soft knit wear.
Handbags at Boutique Nadine
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Florence Shopping Tips Walk everywhere! Often, the best places are found by surprise. Take a map with you but don’t expect to understand it. Streets in Italy are unlike any I’ve experienced before and it’s easy to get lost (which, of course, is not a bad thing!). When at the market, bargain hard. They can smell a tourist a mile off and ask extortionate prices right off the bat. Barter them down and more often than not, you can get the item at half the original asking price.
MY FAVOURITE MARKET THE SAN LORENZO MARKET The small market down Via dell’ Ariento isn’t the largest or most celebrated market in the city but I liked it the best. It’s slightly further out of the centre so it is a little quieter. Essentially, the prices are better. The stalls sell everything from fur to jewelry, leather to pottery. There is a leather stall right at the beginning (adjacent to Via Nazionale), which is owned by a lovely man who has a real passion for leather and skins. Apart from the ready-made pieces on the stall, he can make custom accessories in 24 hours for rock bottom prices (snake skin clutch for 50 euros, anyone?). I also got a great deal on sterling silver bracelets [pictured right] after bargaining the stallholder down from ¤60 to ¤20. There are several stalls selling cashmere and silk scarves so you can pick up a huge, thick cashmere scarf for around ¤10.
Georgina Anderson is a fashion journalism student and freelance journalist living in London.
Picture: Eloketh
“The stalls sell everything from fur to jewelry, leather to pottery.” Essential Italian Shopping Phrases Although most people in Florence speak some English, attempting to say something in their language earns brownie points....and may lead to an additional discount (uno sconto)! Hello/goodbye Ciao. Yes/No Si/No Please. Per favore. Thank you (very much). Grazie (mille). How much is it? Cuanto costa?
A discount I’d like to buy… It’s very expensive! That’s all/okay. I would like to try this on.
Uno sconto Vorrei comprare… È molto caro! Va bene. Vorrei provarlo.
HOW I TRAVEL
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NAME/PROFESSION:
Kara Williams — Freelance Writer, Travel Blogger, Website Owner
SITE:
TheVacationGals.com
“The AWESOME Lodge & Spa at Three Forks Ranch under a beautiful bright blue sky in the Sierra Madre mountains.”
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n the last issue, we profiled Beth Blair - one third of The Vacation Gals trio. Here, another Gal pal - Kara Williams - takes her turn to share with To From how she travels. HOW WOULD YOU DESCRIBE THE VACATION GALS’ BLOG? The Vacation Gals is an upbeat, friendly, informative online space that helps readers (mostly women) plan family travel, romantic escapes or girlfriend getaways. My two other “Gals” and I write destination and hotel profiles, while offering a variety of travel tips and gear reviews. WHEN DID YOU GET THE TRAVEL BUG? I traveled very little as a child, but took my first overseas trip as an 18-year-old to Germany to visit my then-boyfriend. We spent three nights in Paris, and boy did I feel exotic and grownup! But it’s my now-husband who really sealed the deal. When we were dating he surprised me with a trip to Puerto Vallarta; we traveled together to Costa Rica and Hawaii, too, before we ever said, “I do.” (How could I not marry a man who loved to hop on a plane?!)
grandma all studied Spanish for two weeks at a local language school. WHAT DID YOU ENJOY MOST ABOUT THE TRIP? I loved the beach. Living in landlocked Colorado, I often crave the sand and the ocean breeze. WHAT DID YOU LIKE LEAST ABOUT IT? The logistics of traveling with a large group – 15 people – can be difficult. The planning (booking condos, arranging flights) was probably the hardest part. Once we got there, it was easy. WHAT WAS THE BEST THING YOU ATE? Fresh fish tacos! ANY ADVICE FOR THOSE PLANNING THE SAME TRIP? If you are anywhere on Mexico’s Yucatan Peninsula between June and September, you must snorkel with whale sharks. It was an utterly incredible experience! Otherwise, I recommend Xplor, a fun theme park with ziplines and cenote swimming, among other
WHERE DID YOUR LAST TRIP TAKE YOU? My last “big” trip was to the Riviera Maya, Mexico. It was a vacation with extended family, and we all rented condos in Playa del Carmen. The age range was 10 to 68!
activities, or Coba, where you can climb to the top of an ancient stone temple.
WHY DID YOU PICK THIS AS A DESTINATION? My kids, their cousins and their
WHAT DO YOU TYPICALLY TRAVEL WITH? My family: husband, 12-year-old
daughter and 10-year-old son. HOW DO YOU SPEND YOUR TIME ON LONG FLIGHTS? Watching movies or reading trashy magazines. DO YOU HAVE ANY TRAVEL HABITS? When I travel with my family, though I’m offering covering the hotel or destination for writing assignments or my blog, I do try to make it a vacation for them. That is, we sleep in, enjoy leisurely meals and take turns choosing activities during the day so everyone is happy. ARE THERE ON-THE-ROAD BEAUTY PRODUCTS OR SECRETS YOU SWEAR BY? I’ll be honest, I don’t worry too much about what I look like when I travel! Comfort and convenience is a lot more important to me than fluff and buff. WHAT HAS BEEN YOUR FAVORITE WINTER DESTINATION UP TO THIS POINT? My family and I enjoyed a marvelous weekend trip to Three Forks Ranch, an upscale property on the border of Wyoming and Colorado. The caring staff, the gorgeous landscapes, the variety of outdoor activities – private skiing, snowmobiling, tubing – combined to make one of our favorite family vacations ever. WHERE ARE YOU NOW? I’m near Aspen, Colorado, admiring snowy mountain peaks from my home office window. WHERE WILL YOUR NEXT ADVENTURE TAKE YOU? Next up: Thanksgiving week in a small town in Ohio, to get together with a gaggle of cousins and their kids, whom I haven’t seen in years.
“My son skiing in deep powder on the private ski trails of Three Forks Ranch. [It was an] AMAZING experience!”
“View of the oceanfront pool from our Riviera Maya condo. I love renting condos on vacation, so as a family we can spread out to separate bedrooms and have use of a full kitchen — a great way to save money on eating out!” To From
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WHEN I’M TRAVELING I FEEL…
alive, inspired, happy.
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Kara’s nephews swimming with a whale shark off the coast of Cancun, Mexico during the family’s Riviera Maya vacation.
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THE GREAT INDOORS CHICAGO EDITION When the weather gets chilly, we all instinctively search for ways to stay warm. It might be tempting to stay in your hotel room but if you find yourself in Chicago during the winter months, we have a few ideas that will keep your mind off - and you out of the cold. Shelter yourself from the winter weather as you explore some of Chicago’s indoor spaces. 68 To From
THE MUSEUM OF SCIENCE AND INDUSTRY (MSI) & CO. Every year, MSI offers a Christmas Around the World display where over 50 trees are decorated to reflect the individual cultures and how they celebrate the holidays. If that doesn’t get you into the spirit of the season, we’re not sure what will! Other exhibits worth checking out: Science Storms where you’ll find a 40-ft tornado stimulation machine and Yesterday’s Main Street are two of our favorite exhibits. If one museum isn’t enough for you, consider making a day out of the Art Institute, the Field Museum (for the history buffs) or Shedd Aquarium. Choose one or all of these places, and we promise that you won’t be disappointed with the museum options in this city. To From
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HOLIDAY SHOPPING Step away from your computer and stop it with the internet shopping - for now. Instead, head downtown and discover some of the best shopping in the midwest. Naturally, you might gravitate toward the Magnificent Mile (where shops and department stores are lined up and down Michigan Avenue). Or you could enjoy a Chicago tradition and check out the Macy’s (or Marshall Field’s, depending on who you ask) on State Street and marvel at the store’s holiday window display. Afterwards, head inside and do your shopping - with 10 floors of retail space, you’re bound to get a lot done. When your shopping is complete, dine at the historic 7th floor Walnut Room (make sure to try Mrs. Hering’s Chicken Pot Pie and the Frango Mint Chocolate Ice Cream Pie for dessert).
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MAYBE AN ENCORE? In a town with a variety of theaters (including the Bank of America Theatre pictured here) and shows, there is certainly something that will tickle your fancy. Make a night of it. Dinner and the theatre anyone? (Let’s not forget that Chicago is a city with a lot of great restaurant options!)
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Photo: Bank of America Theater
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Step out of your comfort zone.
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A BIRD’S EYE VIEW The Sears Tower or Willlis Tower - you can call it whatever you want to but make it a point to come to the country’s tallest building. But your time here won’t mean anything until you step out on one of the glass ledges and look down. It might test your courage, but you’ll be a better person for it.
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GO TAPAS! Chicago is a hot bed of various cuisines. Saying that, we’re surprised there are only a handful of tapas places. While not a Chicago staple (you won’t find pizza here), Cafe Iberico (737 North La Salle Drive) is a popular place for the locals. Come for the authentic tapas, but don’t forget the sangria. If you can swing it, try to avoid the weekend dinner crowd - Cafe Iberico doesn’t take reservations.
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NEED A HAIRCUT? We love the idea of getting a chic, up-to-date haircut....for $16. At the Aveda Institute (2828 North Clark Street), your tresses will be tended to by students (while being supervised by their teachers). Why stop with your hair? If you’re seeking more, the facials ($52 facial for 60 minutes) here are also worth looking into. Spend an hour for a service or an afternoon for multiple treatments, and it will be money worth spending (or saving). P.S. Make your appointment in advance (the weekends are especially difficult to come by). 76 To From
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SWEET CHICAGO Yeah yeah, we keep hearing that people are over the cupcake craze. If it wasn’t for the fact that LAbased Sprinkles and NYC-based Magnolia breezed into Chicago in the last two years, we’d believe it too. But it looks like this craze is currently here to stay. While we love all the cupcakeries in the city, you’ll most likely find us at Molly’s in Lincoln Park. There, you’ll find a Sprinkle Station (because a cupcake is always better with more sprinkles) and swings where you can sit and enjoy your sugary treat. P.S. Food trucks are also a current Windy City craze. If you like chasing them, follow @flirtycupcakes. You can also visit their “cupcake garage” (pictured here) in the University Village neighborhood (1030 W Taylor). 78 To From
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MMMMM.....BEER..... There are a good number of craft beers coming out of the midwest, and many Chicago bars provide these beers a platform where they can be appreciated most notably, the Map Room (1949 N. Hoyne) in Bucktown where there are over 200 beers to choose from. If you can’t get out that way, duck into any bar (preferably outside of your hotel) and you’ll most likely discover a beer that’s new to you. Drink. Enjoy. Cheers!
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Designed by Danielle Schisler
beauty W I N T E R
Are there products we’re missing? Tell us what winter products you swear by on Twitter (@toandfrommag) or Facebook (www. facebook.com/ toandfrommag).
Tory Burch Flats - Reva Ballet, $195 84 To From
SOLE SEARCHING
Your flip flops have been put away for quite some time now. Every now and then your boots make a public appearance, but they’re not ready to make a full commitment to stepping out quite yet. With the seasons in transition, it’s hard to determine which shoes will cooperate with the weather - and your wardrobe. We’re not telling you to turn your back on your boots, but don’t neglect the other closed-toe option: the cute, comfortable flat. To From
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Merona Madge Flat. Target, $19.99
“To be happy, it first takes being comfortable being in your own shoes. The rest can work up from there.” -SOPHIA BUSH
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“I always wear flat shoes, because I can’t walk in anything else.” -SADIE FROST Call It SPRING Winnike nude flats. Zappos, $35.99
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Little black flats are the new LBD. Aerie ballet flats. American Eagle, $19.99
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FOOT NOTES Flats we covet
Alessandra Burlap Ballet Flats TOMS, $79 Blowfish brown felt shoes Zappos, $39
Give a girl the correct footwear and she can conquer the world. - BETTE MIDDLER
Happy holidays, indeed!
Sam Edelman ‘Felicia’ Flat Nordstrom, $89.95 Hadley Glitter Loafers Ann Taylor Zappos, $78
Ballet Flats H&M $29.95
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LET’S EAT!
SIMPLY SCANDINAVIAN If you find yourself craving rustic comfort food this winter, consider adding a few Scandinavian dishes to your table. As with other cuisines, there are Nordic recipes that can be a teeny bit labor-intensive. But fear not, we chose a few where the preparation was easy enough that we pretty much memorized the recipe (that’s excluding the beet salad picture on the right). Despite the simplicity of these recipes, we found that the dishes - which include root vegetables and a fish dish - were satisfying. (That, of course, includes dessert and mulled wine. )
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BEET IT
This pickled beet salad was our introduction to Scandinavian cooking and it seemed to reveal a lot about the cuisine. While this may not be the dish to stand on its own to represent the Nordic dinner table, it certainly does allow a newbie to take a peek into the ingredients that encompass Scandinavian cooking, including apples (yes, there are apples mixed in with these beets), vinegar and caraway seeds. Definitely an interesting combination of flavors! Although the suggestion is to serve this dish cold, we think this salad is also wonderful when served warm.
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FISH NATION
The Scandinavians certainly love their fish and celebrate Christmas and the New Year with their favorite fish recipes. We found a new favorite of our own: pollack with caramelized onions. (Unfortunately, we couldn’t find pollack but orange roughy seemed to work nicely in the recipe.) While stirring up onions in one pan, start sautéing the fish in another. When done, you’ll have yourself a wonderful combination of sweet and salty flavors. We loved this dish so much we’ll be “celebrating” the new year with this dish every month throughout 2013.
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CHRISTMAS NUGGETS
Americans love their potatoes, and it seems that the Scandinavians share our love for this starchy vegetable. If you’re willing to add another potato recipe to your rotation, consider these caramelized potatoes - a Scandinavian Christmas tradition that is best when using nuggetsized potatoes (that can be eaten in one or two bites). To From
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GIVE CABBAGE A CHANCE
Boiled cabbage is one of those vegetables that you either love or hate. We believe it has more to do with the cooking process than with the actual vegetable. Luckily, we found something that might be worth sharing with our holiday guests! Take a head of cabbage, cut it in half and place it in a pot. Fill the pot up with water no more than halfway past the cabbage. Cover and cook for about 10 minutes. Add butter, salt, pepper.... and dill for flavor. (If you’re feeling great about your diet this season, serve with sour cream.)
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CARAMEL APPLE
Apple pie without the crust! But perhaps a bit sweeter. While the cooking time is lengthy (45 minutes), the preparation is easy. Core the apple and place honey, ginger and a sliver of butter in its place. Although traditionally served with sour cream, we had it with a dollop of vanilla ice cream. Deilig!
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DRINK AND BE MERRY
Although there is nothing wrong with drinking wine in its pure form, the colder temperatures and the holiday season seem to promote all the popular ingredients from this time of year: oranges, cinnamon, cloves and ah, sugar. If you have a spare bottle, make yourself some warm and sweet gløgg. If you’d like, make this your drink all winter long. We would certainly toast to that. Skål! 100 To From
hot& steamy!
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TRAVEL RESOLUTIONS FOR THE NEW YEAR
VACATION SOMEWHERE NEW.
We all have our favorite places that we love returning to over and over again. Instead of planning your big trip this year to Destination Every Year, try a new place - you might end up finding a new favorite vacation spot.
EMBRACE STAYCATIONS.
Travel is what you make of it, and sometimes you have to stay within your means. While many of us would love to do something foreign and exotic, it might not be financially sound for the time being. Instead, spend a weekend at a Bed & Breakfast or a ski resort within a few hours drive. Perhaps you’ll discover a new place and still be able to create those vacation memories.
QUIRKY SHOULDN’T BE DISMISSED.
It shouldn’t be a surprise that we embrace all types of travel - including quirky destinations. (Have you seen our Route 66 issue?) We came across an interesting book a while ago, and later heard a friend mention it casually over a dinner conversation. The book? Oddball Wisconsin. Filled with destinations like The World’s Largest Badger, a giant corkscrew, UFO parades and hippie colonies, the book has made us very intrigued!
LEARN A NEW LANGUAGE.
It’s nice to know the basic greetings when visiting a foreign country, but interacting with the locals sometimes requires going beyond the five words you know. With language CDs, online web courses (try Myngle), library resources (check to see if yours offers Mango Languages - a free web-based course) and even your local community college, it’s never been easier or more convenient to learn a new language.
CHOOSE SOUVENIRS WISELY
Instead of reaching for the keychain that will end up with the others in your kitchen junk drawer, start shopping for a souvenir with a purpose - something that you’ll be able to use when you’re home. Maybe a margarita pitcher in Mexico, cooking utensils (and wine!) from France or those great shoes in Italy. Trust us, you’re better off turning your back on another magnet for your fridge.
SEND POSTCARDS
Leslie from CG Travels says it best: “Send postcards. People LOVE them. It’s a lost art.” Her advice has left an impression on us. (Editor’s Note: I send postcards when I travel now. Leslie gets all the credit.)
PRINT OUT PICTURES
Once upon a time - before digital photos - we used film. In retrospect, it was a test of patience waiting for the pictures to develop (1 to 4 days!). On the flip side, we were rewarded with a stack of images to flip through and framed the ones we liked (the other decent images got placed in an album). In today’s digital world, we forget that it’s kind of neat to have an image to hold on to. Perhaps we’re being sentimental about this, but a weekly visit to Dear Photograph tends to do that to us.
NYC 2008
SEE
YOU IN 2013! To From
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BEING LEFT IN THE COLD ISN’T ALWAYS A BAD THING.
Care to join us?
From 104 To Instagram:
@toandfrom