Taste - Fall 2015

Page 1

AST

the RISE of

ARTISAN TOAST This once simple

side goes gourmet

JOHN HOWARD

& his Meglomaniacs Want more flavour? Scan for more. See how inside.

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Spice guide, Niagara’s best steaks, the evolution of Czech food, family recipes & more.


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MEET THE

CONTRIBUTORS

KRISTINA INMAN Kristina is a certified sommelier and a graduate of the University of Toronto. After years of working in the wine industry, she arrived at the Canadian Food & Wine Institute at Niagara College where she is teaching and working on business development. Kristina lives in the Niagara Region with her husband, son and two cats.

LYNN OGRYZO

MARIANA BOCKAROVA

Lynn is a food, wine and travel writer, author of three international award-winning cookbooks and regular contributor to REV Publications. Lynn specializes in culinary tourism covering regional cuisine destinations, slow food, culinary holidays, wine, spirits and “la dolca vita”. She can be reached for questions or comments at lynnogryzlo.com.

Mariana Bockarova is a PhD Candidate at the University of Toronto, where she teaches Psychological Resiliency, the Science of Happiness, and the Psychology of Relationships. Her research explores narrative medicine and mental health. She also holds a Master’s degree from Harvard University concentrated in Psychology.

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NOTES FROM THE

food.

I spend a lot of time thinking about it. What I’m going to eat next, what I’m going to eat tomorrow, what kind of deliciousness exists in the world that I haven’t been able to even try yet, let alone fathom? I guess one might say, food is a bit of an obsession for me. I went from being a relatively picky eater as a child, to a “well, I’ll taste anything once” kind of adult. When I travel, trying local food is high up on my list of things to do, and when I’m at home here in Niagara, I’m always on the lookout for places that are new and different. And the Niagara Region… well, it’s a pretty heavenly place for a food lover. There is always something food related going on, and with our world-renowned wine region, we truly get the best of both worlds. In this issue of Taste, Sommelier Kristina Inman has paired local Niagara wines with each food article, so if you are inspired to try any dishes at home, you’ll already have the perfect wine pairing suggested for you! These pairings appear at the end of numerous articles (pages 25, 32, 37, 42 and 47) We’ve also taken a little tour around the world, visiting famous tastes from Florida, Prague, Quebec and Kentucky. We’ve delved into the world of Artisan Toast (yup, it’s a thing!), and scoured the Region for the perfect steak. We’ve explored why we like what we like, and provided some helpful hints for your time in the kitchen. Here’s hoping this issue makes your mouth water, your taste buds tingle and your stomach growl. Eat up!

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ONTENT

PUBLISHER Rev Publishing Inc. PRESIDENT & CEO Daniel A. Pasco GENERAL MANAGER Candace LeBlanc ADVERTISING SALES MANAGER Alexandra Mills BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT MANAGER David Mace MULTI-MEDIA CONSULTANTS Patricia Bolus, Tara Hahl, Jason Bayne, Nancy Croce EDITOR Megan Pasche CONTRIBUTING FOOD EDITOR Lynn Ogryzlo PRODUCTION MANAGER Tina Lanzillotta GRAPHIC DESIGNERS Tabitha MacDonald Rachel Bertrand IT/WEB DEVELOPER Justin Soungie MARKETING AND SOCIAL MEDIA COORDINATOR Kaila Henderson CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Mariana Bockarova, Kristina Inman CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS A.J. Harlond TO ADVERTISE PLEASE CALL 905.356.7283 or 1.877.888.2825 WEBSITE todaymagazine.ca

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Taste by Today Magazine is published by Rev Publishing Inc. All opinions expressed in Taste Magazine are those of the authors and do not necessarily reflect the view of Rev Publishing, it’s employees or owners. Reasonable care is taken to ensure that the information contained in this magazine is as up-to-date and accurate as possible, as of the time of publication, but no responsibility can be taken by Taste Magazine for any errors, omissions or comments made by writers or interviewees that are contained herein. Furthermore, responsibility for any losses, damages or distress resulting from adherence to any information made available through this magazine is not the responsibility of Taste Magazine. All unsolicited manuscripts and/or photographs submitted are assumed to be intended for publication or republication in whole or in part. The right to alter, edit or refuse photos and/ or manuscripts intended for publication is assumed. All unsolicited material submitted to Taste Magazine are submitted at the author’s risk. Manuscripts and or photographs intended to be returned must be accompanied by sufficient postage. Taste Magazine does not assume any responsibility for any claims of our advertisers and reserves the right to refuse any advertising.


Cover Story 46

MEGALOMANIAC WINERY Revolutionizing the Niagara wine industry one innovative wine at a time – each with a touch of sass.

A World of Taste 17

THE BLUEGRASS STATE

23

UNLOCKING KEY LIME PIE

28 34

Kentucky is driving a new renaissance in drinking premium, small batch and single barrel brands.

Dissecting Florida’s sweetest secret.

LIVER LA VIDA LOCA

A small farm in Quebec has adopted a more animal friendly to one of the world’s most controversial gourmet foods: fois gras.

EATING PRAGUE

The evolution of Czech food into amazing nouvelle cuisine.

Mastercraft 42

SEARCHING FOR PERFECTION

53

NOT JUST BREAD & BUTTER

Finding Niagara’s best steaks. The rise of artisan toast.

Pantry Shelf 66

CAST IRON PANS

70

PAST DOWN

73 76 78

The enduring kitchen workhouse. Delving into family recipes from our staff.

VEG OUT

Give more than peas a chance.

THE SPICE IS RIGHT

A guide to help you find the right spices to elevate your dishes.

MAKING THE CUT

The who, what, where and why of knives.

Everything but the Kitchen Sink 83

FOOD FOR THOUGHT

86

THE TASTE IN OUR BUDS

91 97

Interesting food facts and tips. The human physiology behind our ability to taste.

FOOD ON FILM

The cinematic art of culinary seduction.

SOME TASTY NIAGARA EVENTS Culinary events happening around the Region.

Today’s People 98

TODAYS PEOPLE TODAYMAGAZINE.CA 11


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What’s not to love: thick caramel, luscious vanilla, ripe pear, eggy French toast and sassy brioche carried across a muscular body boosted with intense alcohol. Caught your attention? You’re not alone! I’ve just fallen in love with Kentucky bourbon. A member of the whiskey family, bourbon is the sweetest of all whiskies with the yummiest of flavours that have seduced many women into falling in love with this male dominated drink. In fact, Kentucky’s first female master distiller, Marianne Barns will soon open a brand new artisan distillery (unnamed at time of printing) and is head of the Kentucky Bourbon Women’s Association. In a state that has more bourbon barrels than people, Kentucky produces 95% of the world’s bourbon and driving a new renaissance

in bourbon drinking are the premium, small batch and single barrel brands the likes of Bullit and Blanton. The best way to try the bourbons of Kentucky is to drive the Kentucky Bourbon Trail. The map looks like the Napa Valley of bourbon distillers with trails(s) that go from Louisville to Lexington with most destinations centered around Bardstown. Bardstown, named the most beautiful small town in America; is also the Bourbon Capital of the World. Within a 20 mile radius of Bardstown is where most of Kentucky’s bourbon is produced. It’s the perfect home base to start your sipping experience. Each distillery offers bourbon tastings and/or tours with enough education to make you a budding bourbon enthusiast in no time. >> TODAYMAGAZINE.CA 17


With a recipe as simple as three ingredients, what makes Kentucky bourbon special is the quality of and combination of water, grain and special strain of yeast, or ‘the mother’. Making whiskey takes a lot of water and Kentucky sits on a giant limestone aquifer that makes the water high in magnesium and calcium and low in iron and sulfur. This unique balance of minerals produces the perfect flavour for the world’s best Bourbon. A large reservoir of this magical water sits behind the Willett Distillery in Bardstown and my first stop on the Kentucky Bourbon Trail. Willett produces only 18 to 20 barrels of quality bourbon per day, small in comparison to Jack Beam or Wild Turkey that would produce up to a thousand barrels a day. On the second floor of the distilling facilities are seven giant, 100,000 gallon fermentation tanks, all full and all at varying levels of frothiness, radiating heat and emitting a sour, yeasty bread aroma more reminiscent of beer than bourbon. Lead distiller, Terry Ballard hands me a glass of rich, dark honey gold liquid smelling of butter, caramel corn and cooked cream. I take a small sip and the flavours of dulce de leche and fresh brioche fill my mouth and last for what seems like forever. Then, there it is, the bourbon love; that hot burning feeling in the middle of your chest. This sip is the Willett Pot Still Reserve and the bottle actually looks like the old brass pot still in the production facilities. It’s yummy. Just like different grains give bread a different 1.5 oz Kentucky Bourbon flavour, so do grains give bourbon its character. 1.5 oz Strawberry Simple Syrup According to bourbon law, Kentucky bourbon 1.5 oz Apple Cider must be made with a minimum of 51 percent .5 oz Lemon Juice corn, with varying amounts of rye, wheat and .5 oz Cointreau malt. It is the combination of these grains that Turbinado Sugared Rum determines a bourbons eventual style. Garnish with a Fresh Strawberry I discovered a delicious example of a “high rye” bourbon at Barton Distillers, also in Bardstown. The Small Batch 1792 bourbon has a unique flavour of heavily coated caramel corn dusted with fresh cracked black pepper. Rye seems to give bourbon a spicier character but not overwhelming to what I love best about bourbon, the bottom weight of eggy caramel flavours. Ed, our host at Barton Distillers picks up an eyedropper and dips it into a glass of water. He then transfers two drops into a glass of bourbon. “Now taste it,” he says. The miniscule amount of water simply transforms the knock-your-socks-off bourbon into a more sophisticated drink that pleases slowly, intently and longingly. More to the point, it doesn’t change the flavour, it only opens up the bourbon to become more sophisticated, refined and polished – the perfect Southern gentleman. The bourbon tasting at Barton’s ended with a sip of Kentucky’s only creamed bourbon. Fitting beautifully into the popular creamed whiskey trend, Ed pours a small amount for each of us. Just as I had anticipated, it travelled across our palate like a velvet scarf, tickling our senses with luxuriousness while the liquid chocolate and caramel nature of the bourbon mate – oh, yum! >>

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The unique production technique that sets bourbon apart from other whiskies is the law that restricts bourbon aging to only new oak barrels. Yes, it’s an expensive proposition, but when the toasty flavours of the new char from the burnt barrel mixes with the honey-like sap filled staves, the bourbon flavours begin to take on a complexity like none other. Just so you know, Barton has found a delicious way to squeeze more use out of their bourbon barrels. They make a bourbon barrel aged Madagascar pure vanilla extract. Wow, does it ever elevate a pecan pie experience! One other thing you should know about Barton’s chocolate creamed bourbon is blended in Canada. Yes, it is trucked to Montreal where the bourbon is blended with fresh Quebec cream. Who would have thought? Unfortunately, it’s only available at the Barton Distillery as is their vanilla extract. Neat is not the only way to pleasure in Kentucky bourbon. Every year the Kentucky Derby has a contest for the most creative bourbon cocktail. In 2014, the winner was the Old Talbot Tavern in Bardstown and the winning drink this year WHERE TO GET was A Sidecar Named Desire. It’s a chilled, IN NIAGARA fruity drink that lets the butterscotch notes of the bourbon shine. My last stop on the Kentucky Bourbon Hard Rock Café, Niagara Falls Trail was the Evan Williams Distillery. The Western Door, Niagara Falls, NY Inside the downtown Lexington building Spyce Lounge, Hilton Niagara Falls is a reproduction of Louisville’s Whiskey Lookout Point Country Club, Fonthill Row (1890). Prior to prohibition, there were 83 whiskey related businesses all White Oaks Resort and Spa, NOTL within a 10-block radius of the current Windows by Jamie Kennedy, Niagara Falls Evan Williams building and the very first Weinkeller Restaurant, Niagara Falls bourbon distiller to open on Whiskey Row after prohibition. Today Evan Williams is both an artisanal distillery and an elaborate reproduction of Whisky Row. The facilities are less Disney and more Universal, less cute and more realistic, this true-to-form reproduction of the original street showcases Kentucky’s whiskey heritage and the legacy of Evan Williams, Kentucky’s first commercial distiller. Kentucky is also one of the most exciting culinary destinations and mixing bourbon with food is not so much an art as a spirited fascination. Kentucky native and founder of Wild Thyme Cooking School, Allison Davis just can’t get enough of the bourbon flavours in her warm weather dishes and she’s good at it too. The day I met her, she drizzled the perfect amount of bourbon in a Bloody Mary shooter, soaked a pork loin in bourbon, laced the sour cream with the brown stuff to smear on the white cheddar muffins (OMG!), splashed some in the mashed, sweet potatoes and spilled even more into the bananas foster bread pudding. Wow, Kentucky is heaven for bourbon lovers like me.

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Unlocking

KEY LIMEPie DISSECTING FLORIDA’S SWEETEST SECRET

BY LYNN OGRYZLO

I

t was sticking to my fingers like beach sand as I pressed the butter soaked, crushed graham cracker crumbs into the curves and crevices of the fluted pie pan. A graham cracker crust is the base of any good Key lime pie. I should know, I learned how to make the greatest Key lime pie of them all in the place that made them famous, the Florida Keys. The perfect Key lime pie is a contrast between a crusty, butterscotch rich graham crust and the teeth chilling, mouth puckering, citrusy lusciousness of the Key lime filling. It’s a refreshing splash of cold water on a typical Keys sweltering summers day. I wash my hands and put the pie shell into the refrigerator to chill. Key lime pie hails from the Florida Keys where the special Key lime trees were once farmed commercially, found growing along roadsides and in most back yards. Key lime trees were pervasive throughout the Keys, a string of islands linked by 42 bridges scattered along a 126-mile

highway that starts in Key Largo and runs south to the town of Key West. Key lime pie is made from Key limes, not at all like the common, green lime we see in Ontario. In fact, Key limes, the ancestral variety brought from Asia was crossed with a lemon to make what we all know today as the common lime. The fruit starts out green and ripens to a plump, soft, small, yellow ball. This means all authentic Key lime pie filling is not the florescent green many of us have come to know it by, but instead, a soft yellow colour. Kermit Campbell, owner of Kermit’s on Elizabeth Street in Key West makes more Key lime pies than anyone else in the Keys. He explains a true Key lime pie is basically only three ingredients; freshly squeezed Key lime juice, sweetened condensed milk and egg yolks. The acidity in the lime juice sours the milk and the mixture turns into a sinfully delicious, thick concoction of sweet cream and tart lime. >>

TODAYMAGAZINE.CA 23


Authentic Key lime pie is the perfect sweet food for Florida Keys activities that include some of the greatest game fishing in North America as well as diving, snorkeling and swimming. You can travel over, under and through the sparkling waters on everything from a glass bottom boat to a kayak to a parasail. I made a pilgrimage to award winning Glaze Donuts on Eaton Street. Their Key lime donuts are filled with Key lime curd and topped with small mounds of meringue. Regardless which of the delicious flavours you choose, the buttermilk dough is moist and chewy on the inside with a feather-like, micro crunch to the outside, as all good deep-fried donuts should be. Key West is one of the world’s most intriguing cities. It’s closer to Havana than Miami and the town centers around Duval Street, the longest main street in the world stretching from the Atlantic Ocean to the Gulf of Mexico. In downtown Key West, Duval Street is full of constant Mardi Gras action resembling Bourbon Street in New Orleans. At one end is Oceanside Mallory Square, full of street performers, craft vendors, food carts, and a mingling of the city’s eclectic mix of residents including Conch Salad Sandy. I first met Sandy with her tiny cart in Mallory Square facing one of the most spectacular sunsets in the world. Sandy’s cart was spitting and sizzling. She was searing Ahi tuna for her mouth-watering, citrus refreshing fish tacos. They were topped with Asianstyle sesame slaw and served with a bright red papaya and black bean salsa. As I ate my way through a glorious sunset, Sandy 6th generation Conch, talks of the fresh fish she takes in every morning from the local fishermen and her recipes that have been handed down in her family for generations. If you were wondering about the Conch in Sandy’s name, it’s actually a matter of pride. She explains if you were born in the Keys you’re called a Conch. If you have been living in the Keys more than five years, you’ve earned Honourary Conch. This small warm, casual, water soaked destination has always

drawn a colourful cast of characters starting with Spanish explorer, Ponce de Leon. Others who found this postage-stamp sized piece of heaven irresistible include President Harry Truman, Ernest Hemingway, Tennessee Williams, Robert Frost and, you got it, me. Like politics, the greatest issue of contention in the Keys is whether Key lime pie should be topped with meringue or whipped cream. While there is and will probably remain disagreements on the topic, I’ve found someone who could tell me a bit about the history of Florida’s refreshingly sweet gift to the world. Bob Bauersachs, General Manager of Tranquility Bay, a beautiful beachfront resort agrees with Kermit that a true Key lime pie is made from sweetened condensed milk, Key lime juice and egg yolks but explains that the original Key lime pies were served frozen. Then it became chiffon-like with high mounds of meringue. Whipped cream began replacing meringue sometime in the 1970’s and he believes it was for two reasons, “people began to get lazy and the meringue has a tendency to bleed in humid weather”. My take on the meringue versus whipped cream issue is that if you’re making a pie with egg yolks, it’s natural to look at the bowl of leftover egg whites and whip them into a frenzy that ends up on top of the pie. It’s just logical. But if most of the Key lime pies are made with a garnish of whipped cream, then my question is, what happens to all the extra egg whites? So once again it’s my duty to find the best Key lime pies to make your job of visiting the Florida Keys that much nicer.

Just for you, I ate Key lime pie for breakfast, lunch and dinner at twenty different restaurants from Key West to Key Largo and this is what’s worth mentioning. In Key West, Ricky’s Blue Heaven wins for the mile-high meringue pie over a thick custardy filling that is a beautiful balance of sweet and tart. For a power burst of citrusy Key lime followed by a taming yet light sweetness, try the pie at El Meson de Pepe in Mallory Square. Bauersachs can be proud of his modern rendition of Key lime with a mixture of white chocolate and cream cheese over the Key lime custard. Spanish Gardens has a killer Key lime pie made in small individual servings and topped with meringue. I’d be remiss if I didn’t mention the amazing Key lime pastries at Sweet Havana also in Marathon. I had their frozen Key lime pie with it’s silky texture and sassy tartness, their Key lime cupcakes filled with thick Key lime curd and topped with a generous layer of Key lime buttercream and a soft Key lime shortbread cookie drizzled with a key lime icing so tangy it makes your mouth pucker. Take a digestive visit to the Turtle Hospital or an afternoon kayaking through the mangroves. You can actually stay in a tranquil botanical garden at Kona Kai Resort or relax in a beachfront community at Tranquility Bay. You can snorkel or kayak through the mangrove islands that make up the Florida Keys or you can do as I did, eat your way through the hundreds of eateries across the hundreds of islands. For more information on the Florida Keys visit fla-keys.com

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W Rockway Vineyards Riesling Icewine 2013 ($29.95)

Desserts can always be tricky to pair with, but the key is to keep your wine sweeter than the dessert. Here an Icewine can play well, and the characteristics of this specific wine (oolong tea, fresh peach and, fittingly enough, Key lime) are well suited to complement the flavours in this pie. If that wasn’t enough, the colours of both elements (that quintessential straw yellow) are even pretty sitting side by side. Put your feet up and enjoy. - Kristina Inman

TODAYMAGAZINE.CA 25


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By Lynn Ogryzlo

Liver laVida Loca La Ferme Basque It’s one of the world’s most controversial gourmet foods: fois gras. It has been targeted by animal rights groups because of inhumane processes (factory farmed ducks are typically force fed extreme amounts of food), but a small little farm in Quebec has adopted a more animal friendly approach when raising their ducks. Sure, they still ultimately end up as food, but their lives up to that point are much more enjoyable than their factory produced relatives. At La Ferme Basque, high quality fois gras is made, and it is done so in a no stress environment. The ducks spend their days grazing in the grassy pasture, and when they are in the barn, they still have plenty of room to roam freely. >>


TODAYMAGAZINE.CA 29


“It’s coarse and littered with

speckles of herbs. It’s earthy, rich and savoury.

If you’ve always avoided fois gras because of the methods of production, this Quebec farm may just be your chance to try the decadent food without the pox on your conscience. Originally from the Basque region of France, Isabelle Mihura is a foie gras farmer in the Charlevoix appellation of Quebec, a couple hours North of Quebec City. Isabelle produces the highest quality foie gras in the country on her small farm, where she uses all the same small scale, traditional Basque methods of production. Isabelle raises Moulard ducks (or foie gras ducks as their casually called). They are a cross between a Muscovy male and a Peking female. They don’t fly, and they have a quick metabolism for easy digestion. Isabelle has loved foie gras from an early age. “In Paris, my parents worked at a Michelin star restaurant and on the weekends when I was asked what I wanted to eat, I always said foie gras,” remembers Isabelle. Once in Canada she couldn’t find any foie gras that was like what she had back home so she set out to farm foie gras like they do in the Basque. Only male Moulards are used in making foie gras because their livers are the most silky and luxurious in texture, the most savoury and seductive in flavour. Isabelle spreads some foie gras terrine on a slice of baguette and hands it to me. It’s coarse and littered with speckles of herbs. It’s earthy, rich and savoury. It yields to the slightest pressure of my teeth and spreads across my tongue before evaporating, melting or disappearing. I’m never sure which. It’s a meat that turns luscious as it permeates your palate, your olfactory senses and your psyche. It’s this magic that sets foie gras apart from any other food.

All of Isabelle’s foie gras products are certified ‘Charlevoix”. It’s one of Canada’s few designated appellations with a superior cachet, a trusted brand and a product in demand by the locals. Isabelle raises her ducks in groups of thirty and during the spring, summer and fall the ducks roam the outdoor meadows in large fenced off areas the size of a large house. As I roam the farm, there are a variety of pens that hold a total of 320 ducks of mixed ages. They eat as much grass, insects and grain as they want and it’s during this time that their liver gets very large; its partly because of the breed and partly because of their inability to fly. Back in the retail store, Isabelle shows me a large mason jar of duck cassoulet and I calculate whether or not I can get it on the plane. I drool over the ingredients in the jar as she slices a tender lobe covered in congealed duck fat. She lays it on a piece of fresh baguette. It’s cold; it was cooked, sous vide, with local Iced Apple Cider. I bite into the foie gras covered bread and it smears across the roof of my mouth like thick peanut butter. Immediately, the warmth of my mouth begins to melt the foie gras and it becomes as luscious as warm chocolate. The flavours are of meaty mushrooms, dark duck and caramelized mushrooms, with some sweetness coming from the iced apple cider. Oh, yum. “This is a small liver,” explains Isabelle. It is in the final two weeks that the birds are force-fed by hand. Isabelle does this by hand stroking the breast and stomach of each animal; partly because they like it, partly to feel their stomach. “You should only feed the bird when the stomach is empty,” explains Isabelle. This is contrary to the treatment of mass produced Moulards. “Its not about force feeding a duck but about how much a duck can eat.” They’re fed >>


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W Reif First Growth Riesling TBA 2009 ($50.10)

If one is spoiled with the delicacy of foie gras, why not follow your indulgent whim and go with a pairing that matches in weight and extravagance? Don’t save this sweet wine for dessert, use it with savoury for an extraordinary sensory experience. Although nothing new, pairing something sweet with foie gras is a beautiful way to let each flavour on your palate sing. TBA is a wine that is made with grapes that are botrytis-infected (a “noble” kind of rot, yes). This process draws out the water from the grape and leaves behind a sweet, intense wine with apricot, dried fig and honeysuckle notes that will take your foie gras to new heights. - Kristina Inman

rehydrated corn, the texture of warm oatmeal, twice a day. Whole kernel corn is for better digestion and a better quality foie gras in the end. It tastes better, melts less (in the pan) and is softer. While most stomachs will be empty due to the ducks high metabolism, if the weather is too hot, the ducks digestion becomes sluggish and the food will stay in the stomach longer. If the ducks cannot be fed twice a day they produce smaller livers. Isabelle expects smaller livers in the summer but if you care about the ducks and respect them, it becomes part of the process, much like the lack of strawberries in a rainy spring or tomatoes slow to ripen in a cooler August. If all goes well, the ducks liver will double in size in the final two weeks. Regardless of the size, Executive Chef Patrick Turcot of the Fairmont Le Manoir Richelieu insists only La Ferme Basque products be served in the Bellerive Restaurant. He loves the product and uses it whimsically in foie gras macaroons or more seriously on his dinner menu, foie gras seared with calvados and apple crisp. He’s even toying with the idea of foie gras cotton candy. As President of the Charlevoix Flavour Trail, Turcot is a leader in farm-to-table dining in Charlevoix. He doesn’t saturate his menus with Charlevoix products because the quantities Le Manoir goes through are too vast. Instead, he talks to his farmers and together they decide what features can be done. “You have to understand the growers capacity and respect that,” says a man who will do anything to get the best

produce for his customers. Sure Turcot may pay a little more for local products, but they are supremely better quality with no waste whatsoever. “I get 100% yield, so they’re not that expensive after all,” he smiles. If you’re adventurous enough to cook foie gras at home, Isabelle says there are four things to look for: feed, size, softness and freshness. The fresher the better so if you don’t have a foie gras farm near you, foie gras that has been frozen immediately after harvest is best. Pan searing is very quick. Both Isabelle and Turcot agree that the pan should be good and hot but not so hot that the foie gras burns. Season it with a bit of salt and pepper and don’t add any oil or butter to the pan. Sear it for 15 to 20 seconds per side, longer if it’s a thick slice. In his book, My Canada Includes Foie Gras, Jacob Richler boasts that corn-fed, Quebec foie gras is superior to anything produced in both Canada and the USA.” To get your hands on some La Ferme Basque, I recommend a trip to Charlevoix to explore the Flavour Trail. It’s beautiful country, a delicious mission and it’s what food memories are made of.

Check These Out Charlevoix Flavour Trail: tourisme-charlevoix.com La Ferme Basque: lafermebasque.ca Fairmont Le Manoir Richelieu: fairmont.com/richelieu-charlevoix


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Scan to take a tour of Prague

Eating PRAGUE By Lynn Ogryzlo


I’m tucked comfortably

into my tiny apartment at the base of Paris Street, right up against the Vltava River in downtown Prague. Like the Seine, its views are beautiful. Prague has always been influenced by Paris and it’s visible everywhere through the stately, white architecture to the mini Eiffel Tower to the restaurant right across the street from me, Le Moules. But that’s not to say Prague doesn’t have its own identity because, as everyone who’s ever visited this magnificent city knows, it surely does. Prague is known as the town of a hundred

spires but in truth, there have been over 500 spires inventoried. The spires come in all sizes, colours and shapes, some with statues, others with flags, some singular, others multi-spired. It gives Prague it’s own singular identity of beauty that becomes especially magnificent at dusk. But Prague is slowly becoming known for more than just it’s visual appeal; food lovers are flocking to this Eastern European city to get a taste of the new Czech cuisine. From a North American perspective one may envision the food of the Czech Republic as being pork, cabbage, dumplings and beer but it has deliciously evolved into some pretty amazing nouvelle cuisine. >>

TODAYMAGAZINE.CA 35


To find out more, I took a food tour with Eating Europe. They are headquartered in Italy with tours running in Rome, London, Amsterdam and Prague. Eating Europe is opening doors to the kitchens of their perspective cities and satisfying the appetites of mouthwatering foodies who lust for new food experiences. On the four-hour tour you not only visit six culinary destinations but in between, you enjoy what our guide Mirka calls ‘digestive cultural walks’. That is simply identifying everything along the way. Eating well in Prague isn’t a problem, Lokal is a bar serving up great casual fare, La Degustation, is one of the two Michelin-Star restaurants in the city and U Modré Kachnicky (The Blue Duckling) is a romantically delicious place. The first stop on our food tour was Sisters on Dlouha Street for some modern, lighter versions of the traditional chlebí ky (open faced sandwiches). Owned and operated by Hana Michopulu, affectionately known as Prague’s own Alice Waters, Hana was responsible for bringing farmers’ markets to Prague and she only uses locally sourced foods in her modern looking eatery tucked into an ancient building. Chlebí ky is an old Czech food that dates back well over a hundred years. It’s the Czech’s most popular finger food but contrary to soft, thick slices of bread piled high with over mayonnaised potato salad and slices of fatty meats, these small melba-toast sized slices of deliciousness are eye-candy to the modern palate. I picked up a blood red, pureed beet topped chlebí ky with a chunk of Czech goat cheese and diced walnuts on top. The beets drenched their natural sweetness over my tongue while the tang of the sourdough bread and earthiness of the cheese layered with the walnut tannins to make for an elegant mouthful. As our little group of six savoured the chlebí ky in Sisters, our eyes were fixated on the butcher shop next door. People were seated at the window bar digging into mounds of glistening tartar on small wooden cutting boards, plates of shaved Prague ham and grilled sausages in soft white buns. We didn’t have to go far for our next tasting, we just walked right next door into the butcher shop. Like a restaurant with an open kitchen Nase Maso’s has an open butcher block buzzing with blood stained, whitejacketed butchers carving, chopping and slicing. It’s all too exciting for our small group of carnivores and we start chatting rapidly about meat. >>

‘THE BEETS DRENCHED THEIR NATURAL SWEETNESS OVER MY TONGUE WHILE THE TANG OF THE SOURDOUGH BREAD AND EARTHINESS OF THE CHEESE LAYERED WITH THE WALNUT TANNINS TO MAKE FOR AN ELEGANT MOUTHFUL.’


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Lynn’s Favourite

PRAGUE FOOD SPOTS 1. Bakeshop, on Kozi for amazing pastries and great coffee. 2. Gingerbread Museum on Neruda, they sell gingerbread cookies with intricate icing lace. It’s pure culinary art. 3. Old Town Square: Eat the ham roasting over coals and dripping on the potatoes below. 4. Dunkr Parukarka. Go for drinks in a graffiticovered, underground bunker. 5. Wenceslas Square. It’s the best place to get a Staroceske Trdlo. If you go, check out these websites: Eating Europe: www.eatingeuropetours.com/ Prague Tourism: www.czechtourism.com Out of the back comes a young man with a clean chefs jacket holding a large platter of meats. He offers it up to our group. The first sample was a slice of meatloaf (more like a rough terrine) on top of rustic sourdough and spread with spicy mustard. The loaf is rich with a peppery flavour that takes on the challenge of spicy mustard skillfully. It’s a full, robust mouthful. Next were warm, pieces of juicy, smoked P eštice sausage named after the region it is known for. It filled your palate with powerful robust smoky-rich flavours, a burly character sure to warm any heart on a Prague winters day. As Mirka guides us to our next destination she talks of Czech food and beer, of historic buildings and statues and of course, more restaurants. Bellevue Restaurant has the most beautiful views of Charles Bridge and some stunning seasonal dishes with a touch of traditional Czech cuisine. Café Imperial is a must stop because it’s run by

Executive Chef Zdenek Pohlreich, claimed by some to be Prague’s Gordon Ramsay. Prague is the beer capital of the Czech Republic with citizens drinking a whopping 157 litres per capita. Pilsner and Budweiser are both brewed in the Czech Republic, but unlike the cheap watery beer brewed in the U.S., Budweiser here is a very high quality beer. After all this talk of beer, we drop by Pivovarský D’m, a microbrewery and restaurant serving up Czech pub food. Giant copper stills sit in the middle of the restaurant and we wander down to the dark underground tank cellar to sip some good Czech beer. We leave a little thirst quenched and walk into the sunshine again. We pass a modern looking ice cream shop called Beautiful Me. Mirka says it’s her favourite in town. We pass a stand filled with rotating poles covered with cinnamon sugared bread. They’re called Staroceske Trdlo. The doughcovered poles rotate over hot coals and cook the bread. When they’re removed from the poles, they’re rolled in more sugar. Imagine that, warm, just cooked bread with sugar melting over it – yum. Moving on we arrive at Choco Café, a familyowned chocolate café serving traditional Ho ice, rolled wafers, stuffed with whipped cream and dipped in shot-glasses filled with thick hot chocolate. The wafers took me back to communion in the Catholic Church. They had the same texture and flavour, but no church wafer was ever stuffed with the seductive textures of whipped cream or dipped in thick sultry chocolate. The chocolate drinks menu looks more like a wine list with dozens of plantation designated chocolates that are melted into seductive drinks. Hot chocolate is a bit of a thing in Prague and it’s here where I had my first taste of whisky hot chocolate. Mirka is a foodie and when she wasn’t talking about her love for Prague’s food shops and restaurants, she was gushing with pride over its history and historical beauty. We experienced some of Prague’s hidden treasures, learned the history behind some of its magnificent buildings and best of all, cut through the thick layer of brash tourism that sometimes interferes with a first timers experience. I give Eating Europe a 10/10.


W

Thirty Bench Riesling 2014 ($18.75)

One can’t help but think of a regionalinspired pairing here. Yes the Czech Republic is known for their beer, but let’s remember they’re a wine producing country as well. As a fellow cool climate growing region, dry and crisp whites are their specialty. And there is one friend who plants his roots exceptionally well on both sides of the ocean: Riesling. What better than a wine with knife-edge acidity to cut through the salt of these old world meats, with flavours of lemon zest, orchard fruit and that classic Niagara minerality to gently weave in and support the wide array of flavours on the plate. This wine definitely has you covered.- Kristina Inman

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Searching

FOR PERFECTION SECRETS OF A SUCCULENT STEAK BY LYNN OGRYZLO

Niagara may be wine country, it grows some of the most delicious fruit in the province and, ok it may make some of the best ice cream I’ve licked, but what many don’t realize is that Niagara is also famous for a fabulous steak. I‘m not just talking about the Keg, although I have to admit they make a pretty mean steak, but I’m talking about the wide range of steak houses that dot the peninsula with many of them in Niagara Falls. Now I know what you’re thinking – “Niagara Falls is for tourists.” But the truth is, if that’s where some of the great steakhouses are, don’t leave them all for the tourists! Isn’t it time we all ventured out to taste the steaks at the Skylon Tower, Weinkeller, Remington’s, Sandstone or Canyon Creek? Outside Niagara Falls, great steaks can be had at the Blue Mermaid, Wildfire Grill (both St Catharines), Liv (Niagara-on-the-Lake) or Taris on the Water (Welland). Heck, the sizzling excitement knows no boundaries as just on the other side of the border, the Western Door Steakhouse (Niagara Falls, NY) is a prime destination. So what makes a great steak? Well that’s a matter of opinion, but because all of the above can make a steak infinitely more delicious than anything I can grill at home, I thought it was high time I asked for some professional secrets. I met butcher at heart, Executive Chef of the Skylon Tower, Bret Cournoyea, cutting 400 steaks in his kitchen high in the sky. I asked him what was the secret to his amazing steaks and to my dismay he does something neither you nor I can do at home. He buys entire loins of beef only from suppliers he’s worked with for decades. He buys an annual supply to ensure consistency and

only before he’s satisfied with what the animals are fed and how they’re treated. He visits abattoirs to inspect conditions and aging practices and when he’s completely satisfied, he buys only what he believes will be the most tender, juicy whole loins and then cuts his own steaks. A skilled chef, Cournoyea can easily handle the seasoning, grilling and serving stage so he focuses on accessing the best quality meat North America can offer. A far cry from reading a package of meat from the grocery store shelf! How can I compete? Try the Skylon’s Certified Angus New York Sirloin Steak. It’s well marbled, aged to perfection with a bold meaty flavour, peppery crust, almost fork-tender resistance and arrives at your table glistening in it’s own juices – whoa! At The Blue Mermaid in St Catharines, House Chef Nick Kosilos has been making his customers steaks for over 30 years. “You gotta know what you’re doing if you last this long,” he laughs. Kosilos agrees with Cournoyea when he says, “it all starts with quality”. Kosilos also cuts his own steaks and the thickness is reflected on the menu, if you know how to read it. The 8-ounce steak is three-fingers thick, the 10-ounce steak a little thicker, the 16-ounce steak a whopping three-fingers thick and the Chateaubriand (tenderloin) is a whopping 20 ounces! Anything larger than that is the entire loin! No, that’s not on the menu, but it is a lot of steak. Last time I saw a steak this large I was in Italy. I watched as it was delivered to the party of eight next to me and I wondered who could eat so much meat in one sitting. That was, until they cut it into pieces and shared, how civilized! >>

TODAYMAGAZINE.CA 43


A GOOD RULE TO LIVE BY IS, THE THICKER THE MEAT, THE LOWER THE HEAT.” Executive Chef, Shawn Lane Because Kosilos cuts his steaks himself, “the customer can have it anyway he wants.” Thickness in a really good quality steak makes a difference. I like mine two-fingers thick and rare. I find this is the perfect combination, of thickness and cooking time for the best meaty experience. Because flavour in a good steak is everything at the Blue Mermaid you can have yours neat or with your choice of traditional sauces such as Peppercorn, Béarnaise, Bordelaise or Hollandaise or Fillet Dianne (flambéed in brandy). “We like to do things right here and no, we don’t serve garlic bread!” says a chef who refuses to walk down the road of common food, “we’re not fast food, we’re the best quality prepared very well.” So after meeting with two chefs and swooning over two of the most amazing steaks I’ve had in a long time, I was still no closer to uncovering any cooking secrets I could use at home. All the chefs I talked to agree that their efforts are more rewarding if they spend time sourcing a great quality product. What home cooks can do is to concentrate on learning the different levels of doneness. First, start with a steak that is two-fingers thick, or 1½ inches. Lay the steak on a clean work surface and using your fingertips, get a feel of it. Uncooked, the meat will feel spongy and soft. The fat around the steak will be firmer. As the meat cooks, it becomes firmer and increasingly solid through the middle. The big question is, where in the journey from spongy and soft to firm is the perfect moment to remove your steak. Some meat lovers swear by the “finger test” as a reference for checking doneness. There are a couple of ways to do it, from touching your arm or your face, but most popular is the hand test. Here’s where it pays to know what raw meat feels like. Pinch the flesh of your hand below your thumb, while your hand is relaxed. To know what medium-rare meat feels like, touch your middle finger lightly to your thumb and pinch the same flesh. To know what medium-cooked meat feels like, touch your ring finger to your thumb lightly. To know what well-done meat feels like, touch your pinkie and thumb together. It takes some practice to master this touch-and-feel technique and it doesn’t account for the varying textures of different cuts of beef. So Executive Chef, Shawn Lane at The Wildfire Grill in St. Catharines says, “a good rule to live by is, the thicker the meat,

the lower the heat.” Then he advises strongly to invest in a good meat thermometer. Not just for roasts, you can test the internal temperature of a steak or hamburger and serve your next steak with perfection – guaranteed! So how do you like your steak? Medium rare? Then the internal temperature should be 145F (63C). If you like it medium, then cook it to an internal temperature of 160F (71C) and well done, 170F (77C). As your steak cooks, the colour will begin to change. Dark brown on the outside and varying shades of brown that turns to pink and even red on the inside. The Wildfire Grill and Steakhouse cooks all Two Sisters Eleventh Post their steaks over burning ($39.00) hot charcoal. Having a

W

supreme sense of seasonings, Lane uses it to boost When you’re dealing with a protein-rich the flavours on all of the dish like steak, you need a wine with steaks he cooks. Lane enough tannin to balance. Here’s the agrees with starting with reason - that saliva-sucking tannin will a great quality steak. Like redirect it’s attention to the protein and the other chefs in this fat of the meat, and your mouth will be story, he locks his source saved from that intense drying effect. The in with ironclad contracts. Eleventh Post (a Bordeaux-inspired blend The Wildfire is a with Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc popular steakhouse in St and Merlot) will be able to balance the Catharines. “During our dish in texture and tie in notes of mocha, busiest times we’ve been cassis, damson plums and cardamom to known to go through 900 round out the flavours nicely. Worth the steaks in a week. Valen- splurge. - Kristina Inman tine’s Day (last year) we grilled over 250 steaks of all kinds in one night all on the same grill!” Lane loves to pair his juicy steaks with seafood so if you’re in the mood for Surf & Turf, this is the place you’ll want to go. Beef is 75% water and 25% muscle so it makes sense that cooking it properly will result in a juicy piece of meat. With all the complicating factors such as quality, cut of beef, size of meat and cooking method why would you want to attempt it at home? Check out some of Niagara’s finest steakhouses and you’ll never be disappointed.


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MEGALO photography: AJ Harlond location: John Howard’s Estate


Truly Canadian

MANIAC

WINERY BY GABRIELLE TIEMAN

Original in their product, bold in their flavours and audacious with their branding, Megalomaniac Winery continues to revolutionize the Niagara wine industry one innovative wine at a time – each with a touch of sass.

This cheeky line is a daring turn for a Niagara homegrown – touting cult favourites SonofaBitch Pinot Noir, Bravado Cabernet Sauvignon, Narcissist Riesling and Pink Slip Rose on their long list of incredible wines. But though Megalomaniac may use their unique branding and attitude to poke fun at the occasionally rigid and traditional Niagara wine industry, each wine remains loyal to the Niagara Region with their elevated homegrown characteristics; creating a truly unique reflection of a Canadian winery with a global perspective. What began as strictly a retirement venture for owner John Howard has since rapidly grown; evolving from a brand of limited quantity, hand-crafted wines into an established award winning winery citing a 25-30 per cent per year growth over the last four years. “We have gone from two thousand to 40 thousand cases in four to five vintages,” said Howard. “But that is all accredited to the people that I work with; they are all really personable, very grounded, they are all people who have a very dynamic spirit. They really walk the talk in terms of producing a quality wine and experience for the people who come here.”>> TODAYMAGAZINE.CA 47


photo: (left) John Howard; (right) winemaker Sébastien Jacquey. photography: AJ Harlond location: Megalomaniac Winery

Resting upon what is believed to be the highest vantage point on the Niagara Escarpment between Milton and Niagara Falls, Megalomaniac’s 120 acres of vineyard on the Vineland Upper Bench in Lincoln has been cultivated and restored to its natural glory. Boasting five varietals on premise and a multi-level winery, Megalomaniac is a must visit while in Vineland; featuring an open concept tasting bar, retail facility, private tasting rooms and the new addition of a wraparound stone patio and rooftop terrace adorned with glass railings and seating for an unobscured panoramic view of both the Niagara Region and Toronto and Niagara Falls skylines that is simply breathtaking. The patio is not the only new addition to the winery’s impressive repertoire; welcome acclaimed winemaker Sébastien Jacquey to the team. The dynamic and highly educated winemaker from Burgundy, France is known for using a combination of old world style in the new world; diligent in his quest to create premium wines while fostering a comfortable environment that promotes creativity, discovery and spontaneity. “Six years before I met him I said that the wine he produced, Le Clos Jordanne, a pinot noir, that it was the best red wine ever produced in Niagara,” said Howard. “I’ve said this for six, seven years – and I had never met him. So when he came to talk to us about joining us, we talked about Le Clos Jordanne and he said ‘I’ve heard

you say publicly that you think it’s the best red wine.’ And I said, ‘That’s because I believe that. Well I want you to produce more.” Jacquey’s extensive education includes five years of vocational training, a university diploma in Technology and Biology with a specialization in Food and Biology, a National Diploma in Oenology and his Professional Agricultural Aptitude certificate. He later received his Master of Earth and Environment studies, specializing in Vine Management and Terroir and then went on to the l’Institut Supérieur d’Agriculture, RhoneAlpes, where he graduated as an Engineer of Oenology and Viticulture. Recognizing that knowledge is not only gained by textbook, Jacquey’s rigorous training has been complemented by lots of hands on experience in wineries around the world. “The really important thing, the key thing, about thresholding a culture where people can become creative is you have to make them comfortable,” said Howard. “If they do not have that threshold then it is very difficult to ascend for that level of greatness. The environment [ Jacquey] creates allows for this level of spontaneity and discovery and exchange of ideas.” Howard, the former proprietor of Vineland Estates Winery and Executive Vice-President for Canon’s North American operations, is no stranger to the evolution and growth of industry. Under Howard’s innovative eye, Vineland Estate’s once petite winery grew


- JOHN HOWARD

into a high-end operation with much acclaim; expanding vineyards by 300 acres and growing production from its humble two thousand case beginnings into a 50 thousand case operation over the course of eight years. Howard has done the same with his newest venture. What began as a single vintage meant to help financially support his charity Kids’ Health Links Foundation, which provides computers for children in hospital so they can stay connected to family and friends, took off. And though Howard’s initial goal was to limit annual production to a few thousand cases while keeping the bottle price low, the winery’s growth could not be stunted. “I was going to spend my retirement fly fishing for Atlantic salmon, I was going to spend time developing our projects in Bordeaux [France], and I was going to farm this property,” said Howard. “I wasn’t really keen on the notion of making wine again. For me, I was done making wine in Canada; I had two Wine Chateaux in France [With the Jeanoueix family, a dynasty in the wine industry]. So we did one vintage, where a portion of the proceeds would go to the charity, and called it Megalomaniac.” The original vintage sold out within 90 days and in tandem with the wine’s success, the foundation established a threshold. It became clear to Howard that the foundation could have a huge impact on children hospitals across the country. The notion of taking it

I CALLED IT MEGALOMANIAC FRANKLY TO POKE FUN AT PEOPLE IN THE WINE BUSINESS WHO TAKE THEMSELVES TOO SERIOUSLY. national came up, so he made another vintage. Today, neither the winery nor the foundation has ceased growth; with the foundation currently residing in 11 of the 13 children’s hospitals across Canada. With the intention of keeping Megalomaniac Canadian, Howard and business associate Bernie Beauregard set out to find a creative label to match the unique brand. “I called it Megalomaniac frankly to poke fun at people in the wine business who take themselves too seriously,” said Howard. “Everyone, including [Beauregard] was nervous about me using Megalomaniac. They thought wine journalists and people like that would think I was mocking them - which I was, unequivocally, so everyone was nervous. “Our sense was that if we produced a really good wine at an affordable price, there would always be a place for that product,” said Howard. “That has been a bit of a threshold; producing the best wines we can, but presenting them at a very affordable price. Our underlining theme is value and it is very important to us and our customers.” Their search ended at an art institute where they held a contest to find the winning label design to accompany the cheeky name. A young woman from B.C. was the first to introduce the image of the faceless man in a bowler hat. The brilliant packaging went on to receive much acclaim in 2007 when Narcissist Riesling was singled out as the only >> TODAYMAGAZINE.CA 49


individual design to earn double-gold honours at the San Francisco International Wine Competition under unanimous vote. “I really think the branding struck a note with wine people internationally,” said Howard. “To win gold, first you have to have more votes than anyone else from the tribunal, but to get double gold it has to be unanimous. It’s a pretty big deal for Napa [Valley].” Megalomaniac quickly found themselves at the forefront of interest in the wine world. Though Howard says he had no aspirations to expand the brand past its original concept, Howard said they had no choice but to construct the new winery – which opened in 2014 – to accommodate current and future growth. Rising upwards from the Underground Cellar Howard had constructed years previous to house farming equipment, a winery of esteem rose with one reoccurring theme; that it be Canadian. “I wanted it to be Canadian,” said Howard. “And I wanted it to be organic. All of the stone is from the escarpment. Majority of the wood is Canadian. It’s supposed to look Canadian and I want it to look Canadian because we are in Canada. This idea of trying to emulate Italy, France; I don’t get that. You want property that looks French? Buy in France!”

Though they farm a variety of Bordeaux varietals imported from France on the property, this passion for a true Canadian winery can be found flowing effortlessly among the grapes surrounding the vineyard – with Howard’s patriotism mirrored by the Crimson King Maple Trees that line the drive into the winery. “Anyone who takes a photograph - there is a maple leaf in front of it,” said Howard. “That’s who we are. But it was natural that we would have Bordeaux varietals here because of what we were doing in France. Some of the same vine clones we have on our properties in France are planted here so it gives us an interesting dynamic.” The winery farms an evolving crop of varietals on the home vineyard and rolling fields of the main vineyard. This includes all Bordeaux varietals – Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc – and Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Riesling. Following an unfortunately rough winter, Megalomaniac was forced to uproot many of the damaged vines surrounding the property on flat land – losing 40-45 per cent and the entirety of the home vineyard merlot. But Howard said he is looking towards the future and not back at the damaged grapes; this uproot has allowed their team to plant new vineyards – including more Chardonnay and Pinot Noir to cater to Jacquey’s interests. “I love planting vineyards but you don’t really want to plant vineyard by virtue of ripping out vineyard,” said Howard. “But I don’t think we will have that problem again.” “We are very keen on farming what we put into the bottle,” said Howard. “We want people to see that and see the commitment we have got in terms of owning and operating and maintaining the amount of vineyard that we have.” The winery also features on premise labs and state of the art fermentation and barrel rooms for on-site wine tasting, testing and experimentation. Megalomaniac chose to invest in both high end cigar barrels and traditional round barrels for developing their wines – allowing their wine makers the opportunity to experiment and test aging and development components on the same grapes. But expansions are not set to cease in the near future. Howard said the winery will continue to work on expanding their new patio, adding an additional roof top component above the current patio, all to help soften the concrete exterior and provide even greater views of the surrounding region. Howard said they are also looking to build an experimental kitchen for catered events and add drone technology into the vineyard for live profiles of the grapes. All renovations sit with the same goal of creating an all-encompassing Niagara wine experience. “We really want people to come out here and have fun and get a perspective of Niagara that is traditional,” said Howard. “If it wasn’t for this industry, all of this land on the horizon could soon be planted with basements. We’ll always pride ourselves in protecting our Agricultural Heritage.” Whether it be their world-class wines, phenomenal views or Howard’s warmth and character that draw you to Megalomaniac, you are guaranteed to find something that will keep you coming back for more.

“We’re proud of our Niagara Heritage and we’re certainly proud of our homegrown wines!” photo: John Howard photography: AJ Harlond location: Megalomaniac Winery


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It’s dry, brittle, often tasteless, sometimes burnt, best eaten warm, but so often served cold. What is there to really say about toast?

My grandmother would put simple sandwich bread into the toaster, butter it quickly and set it aside while her tea steeped. By the time she sat down to eat, the toast was butter-wet and cold. She would fold it in half and dip it into her tea. The butter would swim in the hot tea and her toast reduced to mush. But that’s the way she liked it. You may think toast doesn’t matter much but the folks at Le Petite Sud Ouest in Paris, France are so obsessed with the perfect toasting of bread for their prized foie gras that they put a toaster on every table along with a basket of bread. They pan sear the best foie gras in the country and they teach you how to bring toast to the perfect temperature and texture so it flawlessly features the star of the dish, the warm, succulent foie gras. At Le Petite Sud Ouest, toast matters. >>

TODAYMAGAZINE.CA 53


Toast also matters to a growing number of chefs who are taking an otherwise ordinary slice of warm bread and gourmandizing it into artisan toast. They start with a loaf of nontraditional bread such as sourdough or olive and rosemary. Some cut it thick and fry it in house-made butter with chunks of sea salt. Others are making it thin, broiled and brushed with truffle or saffron composite butter (composite butter is flavoured butter). What distinguishes toast apart from artisan toast is the use of nontraditional breads, composite butters and the simple fact that they’re not toasted at all, but fried or broiled. “I love toast, but I don’t own a toaster,” laughs Rob Berry, owner of the Bleu Turtle Restaurant, a popular breakfast spot in St Catharines. Instead, “I fry it on the griddle.” Berry doesn’t like his toast burnt, just buttered, cuts it on the thick side and he’s particular about his bread. Barry bakes his own Honey Whole Wheat bread and uses that for toasting because the honey caramelizes, turns the toast darker with a slight sweetness that really boosts the flavour of the scant bit of melted butter and sea salt he brushes on top of it. Yum. When I talk about artisan toast you may have thought French toast, but it’s not the same thing. Yet, even French toast is getting a face life by reincarnating the traditional cinnamon laced toast fried in whipped eggs and cream into a lemon laced frothy cream baked toast dotted with blueberries version. Delicious as it is, my only issue is that it’s no longer French toast at that point – it needs a new name. Jason Parsons, Executive Chef of Peller Estate Winery Restaurant claims the broiler is the best way to go. “I like a simple white sourdough, thick cut so it’s still fluffy on the inside and toasted only on one side. “If it’s toasted on both sides, it’s too crunchy,” he laments as he shakes his head. Next Parsons slices cold chunks of butter, dots the warm toast and watches it melt. “I love the puddles of butter as I’m eating.” Parsons makes his own composite butter with Icewine at the restaurant. He describes

it as “amazing”, as he rolls his eyes to the back of his head. Parsons is a man who loves his butter. His secret midnight snack is toast. He talks about puddles of Normandy butter or smears of small batch Ontario butter sprinkled with chunks of sea salt. Asked if he puts anything else on his toast he laughs, “I’m English, so jam yes, strawberry most often and no to anything else like nutella, peanut butter or honey.” Parsons has an idea for serving upscale toast at a party. “Take a baguette and slice it in half, down the middle. Drizzle it with a good quality olive oil and lots of sea salt. Toast it in a Panini press and when it’s warm, slice it crosswise into finger-shaped slices.” It’s simple, yet rich. Parsons doesn’t see toast as the main event here, but a replacement for crackers or bread. Artisan toast is not new to Europe. I was travelling in Florence many years ago and was served the Italian version of artisan toast. It was a thick cut of an Italian loaf that was baked with whole, roasted cloves of garlic embedded right into loaf. It was lightly broiled, rubbed with raw garlic and drizzled with rich olive oil. A fresh loaf of Italian bread has millions of small to medium sized air holes throughout. It means there is less bread surface and more mini pockets to scrape the juices from the garlic clove and capture mini pockets of extra virgin olive oil that opens up from the warmth of the toast. Soft, warm and billowy on the inside, it was deliciously overpowering in aroma and flavour with a light crunchy crust on the outside. You can easily add things to artisan toast. In this case a heap of Cannelli beans simmered in garlic and rosemary saddled the toast. It was glistening with extra virgin olive oil that came from the olive groves around the city. A fresh sprig of rosemary lay over shavings of Parmesan cheese that became limp over the warm beans. I don’t remember the name of the dish but I call it “beans on toast” which really does nothing to reflect why I am still yearning for this dish two decades later.

William Brunyansky, chef and owner of the Paniini Café in Thorold makes a killer cheddar, jalapeno corn bread. He grills it with butter on the flat top. It’s three fingers thick size means it’s more of a chunk than a slice. When it’s toasted, the butter caramelizes against the soft bread surface while the cheese bits grill into a crunch. The uber-thick chunk is toasted on one side only so it’s crusty crunchy on one side and soft on the other. It’s brilliantly served warm with Nova Scotia Lobster Chili. “It just makes the whole dish more rich,” says Brunyansky of his chunky artisan toast. For other toast in the restaurant Brunyansky uses a Salamander. It’s a top down char broiler that toasts one side quickly. “If we get busy, we can kiss our toast good-bye,” laughs William. “There’s no pop-up on a Salamander.” Artisan toast is usually served with something on the side to spread on it for added flavour and texture. If it’s savoury toast, serve hummus, pate, soft cheese, black olive spread or guacamole. If it’s a sweet artisan toast, consider serving jam, soft caramel, liquid chocolate, crème frâiche, nougat cream, almond paste or do as they do in Hong Kong, serve thick slices of toasted bread with sweetened condensed milk. My favourite way to make toast special is to cut thick, 1-inch slices of sourdough bread and fry it in butter and sea salt over low temperatures so the butter doesn’t burn. It turns butter gold with a sweet and salty flavour and a consistent crunch on the outside. The soft sourdough retains the stretchiness, softness and warmth on the inside. Berry, Parsons and Brunyansky all agree that the best artisan toast is made from fresh bread, not day old. And while traditional sandwich bread may be the most convenient to throw in the toaster, it is also the least flavourful. So next time you pick up that ordinary slice of bread to drop into the toaster, think again, gourmandizing your toast is just one more simple way to get more flavour and satisfaction into your day.


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Buttery, bready, toasty… sigh, I’m already salivating. And my mind goes straight to those flavours that you can find in a blanc de blancs. This is a traditional method sparkling wine made with 100% Chardonnay, and to be frank, we can really knock this out of the park in Niagara. The wine not only ferments for a second time in the bottle itself, but it then sleeps on a bed of spent yeast cells for an extended period of time thereby infusing that biscuity and bread-like flavour into the wine. A perfect flavour match, made even better with the refreshing texture of the tiny bubbles cutting through the crunchy consistency in the bread. Yum. - Kristina Inman

TODAYMAGAZINE.CA 55


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Casting CALL BY LYNN OGRYZLO

Needed: A versatile player in the kitchen, up for any role. THE KITCHEN WORKHORSE The big, strong, macho, cast iron skillet that demands pampering and (you may think, too much) attention is worth every minute of effort for the sensually, flavour rich foods you can make in it. Sometimes it’s just skillet jalapeno cornbread that’s a must-have with Saturday night’s barbecued ribs. Compared to baking cornbread in a bread pan, a cast iron skillet gives it a crunchier crust and a deeper, more savoury flavour interpretation. Other times it’s a whole brined chicken coated in butter and thyme and baked to juicy, rich perfection. Cast iron seems to incorporate whole, rich, seductive nuances into food flavours, more so than modern day skillets - like the love of two cooks in a kitchen. I got my first cast iron skillet at a garage sale for the huge sum of one dollar. It had rusty sides with blotches of grey on the bottom and was chalky dry. In case you don’t know, a healthy cast iron pan should be a rich, glossy, consistent black colour. But cast iron pans never die, they have the ability to outlive us all and can be handed down from generation to generation – if cared for properly. Bringing my rusty cast iron skillet back to life was as easy as submerging it in equal parts of white vinegar and water. Vinegar will eat away at the rust, but a word of caution – it will also eat your cast iron pan. So it’s something you want to watch carefully. When the rust is easily wiped away, rinse the skillet out with fresh water. A skillet left too long with vinegar will begin to pit and that’s a cast iron pan that can never be resuscitated. >>


SKILLET, CAST-IRON TODAYMAGAZINE.CA 67


CAST IRON PANS NEVER DIE, THEY HAVE THE ABILITY TO OUTLIVE US ALL AND CAN BE HANDED DOWN FROM GENERATION TO GENERATION – IF CARED FOR PROPERLY. So I keep a watchful eye and when the rust wipes away I rinse it with water, wipe it dry and get ready to season it. While most new cast iron skillets on the market today come already pre-seasoned, if you’re shopping at garage sales, it probably won’t be. Seasoning is baking a thin layer of oil onto the surface of the skillet to give it a non-stick surface. And that’s a good thing. I don’t know of any other skillet that will let you turn it into non-stick, and so easily too. First, place the cast iron skillet on a baking sheet (to catch any drips). Rub a tablespoon of oil all around the inside of the skillet and place it in the oven. Turn the oven to 350F (180C). Gently heating the pan allows the oil to soak in better. Now bake it for an hour, turn off the oven and let the skillet completely cool in the oven. Wipe away any excess oil and put it away. Seasoning your cast iron skillets is to make the surface non-stick and the more you season it, the more non-stick it becomes. The beauty of cast iron pans is that they’re oven friendly. They can go from the stovetop into the oven easily. Steaks, pork chops, chicken and lamb are perfect for cast iron skillets because they all need to be seared at super high temperatures for extra flavour and then baked to ensure they’re cooked through to deliciousness. These are foods that need to be seared not scorched, browned not burnt. The higher the sear, the better the flavour and for this, it doesn’t get better than cast iron. If you’re wondering how to clean cast iron after searing at extremely high temperatures, well, it’s easier than you think. Because soap is designed to remove grease and oil, don’t use soap and whatever you do – don’t put your cast iron pan in the dishwasher! Instead, add a few tablespoons of coarse salt to a stillwarm skillet and rub it around with a folded, damp, clean dishcloth. Rinse with water and let it dry completely before you put it away. These big, macho cast iron pans that need to be babied, heat differently than traditional skillets. Unlike sophisticated skillets with metal-layered bottoms that are designed to heat evenly and consistently, cast iron pans actually heat very unevenly so they’re

not really good for quick cooking. The value with cast iron is, when it gets screaming hot, the heat becomes even and it stays hot, even when you put cold food in them. This makes cast iron perfect for one-dish foods like soup, stew, paella or braises. These dishes need to be built with ingredients added at different times through the cooking process. While other skillets will allow the dish to cool down with each addition of an ingredient, cast iron will not. Take beef stew for example. I heat my cast iron, deep Dutch oven for this job. The recipe requires the cubes of beef to be dusted in flour and seared in oil, then toasted in a really hot 500F (250C) oven so it gets a delicious crusty exterior. It’s a job made for cast iron, as the addition of the other ingredients won’t reduce the temperature and consequently saves time in the cooking process. Like wooden spoons or a worn out butcher block cutting board, cast iron pans have memory that it loves to impart to any dish, like stew that you’re simmering for hours. The different ingredients come together better and it creates a rich, bottom-weight flavour like no other pan can. The key to cast iron cooking is to remember to always preheat the pan on the stove top or oven so it has time to absorb the heat throughout, like my cornbread. I put the skillet in the oven to preheat as I make the cornbread batter. Then, when I pour the batter into the hot pan it sizzles and spits, creating a crunchy, golden crust to the cornbread bottom – and it’s non-stick! While I season my cast iron pans repeatedly and love to cook almost anything in them, I avoid using overly acidic foods such as simmering tomatoes, deglazing with wine or warming sauerkraut. Vegetables and cast iron pans are a match made in heaven. Like roasting most vegetables, blanch them first, season them and roast. My skillet gives me steady, super-hot heat for that textured brown crust on the vegetables that no other roasting pan will do. Cast iron is also forgiving: if you need to scrub it, go for it. Once you’ve got it cleaned up, season it again. You can season your cast iron as many times as you like and it will just get better and better at cooking foods with more flavour, colour and texture. That’s the beauty of a cast iron legacy.


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We asked the staff here at Today Magazine to submit one of their favourite family recipes, and we’ve incorporated them all into an interactive recipe book. We hope you enjoy our family favourites as much as we do!

Down


Scan to view our staf staff recipe book

BETTE TUFTS TOMATO SAUCE

SOUNGIE’S SUNDAY CREPES

All of the recipes that I really cherish come from my grandmother. She made them all the time, and my mom and my aunts make them too. One of these recipes that I have recently started making myself is my grandmother’s pasta sauce. Last year, I had a “learn to make sauce” day with my mom and aunts, and they taught me the recipe that they now know by heart. It’s so good. Every time I make it, it brings back the most comforting feeling of spending a day home with my family, while the pot bubbled and cooked on the stove, filling the house with the most delicious smell.

Growing up I didn’t have too many traditions with my family. We had recipes we cooked often that were cultural, but nothing I was ever able to recreate and cook myself. I love to cook and enjoy an evening with some good music playing and trying out a new recipe and finding new ways to make it my own. After starting my own family I wanted to have recipes that I could pass down that they would remember growing up with. This crepe recipe is something I have tweaked and changed over a dozen times until I found a nice treat that goes perfectly with some fresh stewed strawberry sauce to put on top alongside some eggs and deli sausage. It’s become a Sunday morning breakfast tradition in my home that brings us all together at the table. – Justin Soungie, IT Manager

CRAIG’S HONEY HAM

When my boys were growing up in the family home we had a gourmet food club. Each of us took turns to plan a menu and cook a gourmet meal. Craig was 14 years old when he picked a honey ham recipe from one of the cookbooks in my collection. I can’t even remember which one anymore. The recipe was easy to prepare, Craig altered it a bit and it took two days to make. Craig’s Honey Ham became a family tradition for holidays like Thanksgiving and Christmas. It was so delicious that it made it into my first cookbook, Niagara Cooks. I hope you make it, I guarantee it will become a family favourite of yours too. – Lynn Ogryzlo, Contributing Food Editor

– Megan Pasche, Editor

FIORENTINA’S UCCELLINI PASTRIES Growing up as a first generation Canadian, I often rebelled against traditional Italian conventions slated for women. But the one thing that we could all agree on in our family was food - and the committment to preserving our family’s legacy. To this day, I never miss an opportunity to participate in canning our own tomato sauce and preserves, or curing our own meats and cheeses. There is nothing though, like the anticipation of looking forward to a recipe that is reserved for a special occasion. Once a year, in preparation for the feast of St. Anthony, the women in my family would assemble to create a simple but hearty pastry filled with a homemade chocolate/ plum/walnut jam. These whimsical uccellini (little birds) were informally referred to as seahorses in our family as my grandmother – as was often the case with most of what she made – took liberties with the design. I have fond memories of us trying to out do the other by producing the most elaborate “feathers” without puncturing the jam filled body. Needless to say, she almost always won. – Tina Lanzillotta, Production Manager

MARION’S ITALIAN ICE CREAM BARS My mother made this for us, she called it Italian Cream Bars, but all roads lead to it being called Tablet. A traditional Scottish version of fudge? As kids we loved this treat! – Alex Mills, Advertising Sales Manager TODAYMAGAZINE.CA 71


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Y

Out

ou know them; you’ve glanced quizzically while walking through the aisles of the grocery store. You think, “well, that’s an interesting looking vegetable – NO IDEA what to with that.” They usually have weird spikes, a rough exterior, or generally look like they shouldn’t be eaten in the first place, making you wonder who exactly saw it’s potential as an edible plant, and decided, “yes, probably tasty”. “I’ll stick with cauliflower, thank you very much,” you muse, “after all, it looks weird, but it’s familiar.” But then one day, you are feeling brave, you say to yourself, “I’m going to buy an artichoke, see what it’s all about.” Then you cook it, and it’s flavourless and mushy. “Well, that’s it for my foray into exotic vegetable land,” you conclude, and you retreat back to the safe confines of the familiar. But, as it tends to do, the familiar gets boring, and you once again yearn to stretch your adventurous cooking muscles, determined not to repeat your artichoke catastrophe. So, with that in mind, we present to you this handy guide… no need to get all vegged out, stick with us, and soon enough, your trepidation-filled side glance in the grocery store, will become a convivial greeting, “why hello, spiky old friend…” >>

TODAYMAGAZINE.CA 73


Scan for some tasty recipes

ARTICHOKES These are a variety of thistle that can be used for food. The edible portions of the plant are the flower buds before the flower blooms. When you look at one, it’s not immediately obvious how they should be cooked. When buying them, you want to choose one that has closed petals, not open; these are more fresh and tender. The first step is to cut off the little spikes at the tip of the petals. Any small leaves that are close to the base should also be pulled off. If there is a stem, cut that off. Rinse the vegetable in cold water, pulling back the petals a bit so the water reaches inside. Get a large pot, fill it with a couple inches of water and put in a clove of garlic, a slice of lemon and a bay leaf. Add a steaming basket. Put in the artichokes and cover. Bring the water to a boil, and then reduce the heat to simmer. You then cook it for 25 to 45 minutes until the exterior leaves can be pulled off easily. You can eat them hot or cold, and then can be served with a dip (melted butter, mayo, balsamic vinegar). You pull off the petals one by one, dip it in the sauce, then pull the leaf through your teeth to remove the soft, pulpy part and discard the rest of the petal. You continue to eat it like this until all the petals are gone. Use a spoon to scrape out the fuzzy part that shows after you’ve eaten all the leaves, and you will reveal the artichoke heart. You can then cut this up to eat. Once you master this way of cooking artichokes, you can try making it into soup, a salad or a dip.

FENNEL

This is part of the carrot species; it has a base that is used for consumption. The bulb can be sautéed, stewed, grilled, or it can be eaten raw. Fennel tastes very different depending on if it is eaten raw or cooked, so there are a ton of different things you can do with it. When raw, it makes for a great salad, with some salt, lemon juice and olive oil sprinkled on top. Make sure you don’t cut it too far in advance, or it will lose it’s crispness. It also tastes great when mixed with other ingredients; it adds a great flavour. It is crunchy and slightly sweet. Fennel can also be grilled or braised, boiled or roasted. It is tasty when combined with garlic, tomatoes and onions or asparagus, apples and blue cheese.


FIDDLEHEADS

(pictured left) These are the furled fronds of an ostrich fern, and if they are left on the plant, they would unravel into a new leaf. They are available seasonably, and it is important that you store them properly. They must be cleaned, cooked and frozen correctly. When you buy them, you’ll want to seek out the tightly coiled, bright green ones. They are foraged in the wild, and should never be consumed raw. They are usually harvested in April or May. You should prep them by putting them in a large bowl of cold water, and rub away the brown husks. Trim off the stem, and continue to rinse and drain them until the water runs clear. They can be boiled (for 15 minutes) or steamed (for 10 to 12 minutes), until they are fork tender. Once they have been cooked, you can eat them, as is, or bake, sauté or puree into a soup.

ZUCCHINI BLOSSOMS

ROMANESCO

KOHLRABI

These are the edible (and delicious) flower of the zucchini plant, and can be eaten raw or cooked. When you are purchasing them, chose the freshest looking flowers, the ones that are brightly coloured. You should use them within a day or two of purchasing them. You are most likely to find them at a local farmer’s market or a specialty store. They can be eaten fried (lightly battered then stuffed with cheese). They can also be stuffed, and then baked.

This vegetable is kind of a cross between cauliflower and broccoli, and is extremely odd looking. It tastes similar to cauliflower, but with a more nutty, earthy, flavour. It can be cooked in many of the same ways as cauliflower: it can be steamed or boiled, topped with some lemon juice and olive oil. It makes for a great vegetable to pair with pasta. It can be baked (after being drizzled with olive oil and seasoned with salt, pepper and maybe a sprinkle of paprika).

This is a version of cabbage and it can be eaten cooked or raw. It has a texture kind of like a radish, with a bit of sweetness. When preparing it, you’ll want to peel off the tough exterior with a veggie peeler. It can be consumed raw; in a salad, or on it’s own drizzled in olive oil and sea salt. It can be added to vegetable soup or in a creamed soup. It can be shredded, mixed with egg and a few tablespoons of flour or breadcrumbs and made into a fritter and fried. Scan this page with Layar for some great recipe ideas incorporating these vegetables! TODAYMAGAZINE.CA 75


Basil

Allspice

Sweet

Earthy, Sweet

The

Use In: Soups, Desserts, Breads

Use In: Salad Dressings, Sauces, Dry Rubs, Marinades

By Tabitha MacDonald Choosing the right spice for the meal you are creating can help elevate your dish from good to spectacular. With so many spices, its hard to know where to start; but consult this handy guide, and you will be well on your way to knowing which spice is right!

Produce: Apples, Beets, Cabbage, Carrots, Squash, Sweet Potatoes, Turnips

Produce: Bell Peppers, Eggplants, Potatoes, Tomatoes, Zucchini

Protein: Beef, lamb Pairs well with: Cardamom, Nutmeg, Cinnamon, Cloves, Ginger, Mace

Pairs well with: Garlic Powder, Rosemary, Thyme, Marjoram, Oregano

Protein: Cheeses, Chicken, Fish, Pork

Cardamom

Bay Leaves

Cayenne Pepper

Sweet

Use In: Curries, Rice

Use In: Rices, Soups, Salad Dressings, Sauces, Marinades

Use In: Risotto, Soups

Produce: Potatoes, Tomatoes, Mushrooms Protein: Beans, Lentils, Shellfish Pairs well with: Oregano, Sage, Thyme, Marjoram

Produce: Carrots, Citrus, Corn, Peas, Sweet Potatoes, Squash Protein: Chicken, Duck, Lentils, Pork

Protein: Chicken, Beef, Fish

Pairs well with: Cinnamon, Cumin, Ginger, Turmeric

Pairs well with: Cumin, Paprika, Cinnamon

Cinnamon Use In: Fruit Sauces, Desserts, Breads

Produce: Eggplant, Potatoes, Zucchini, Bell Peppers, Corn, Tomatoes

Coriander

Cloves Use In: Curries, Soups, Marinades, Desserts, Breads

Produce: Apples, Carrots, Pears, Sweet Potatoes, Squash

Produce: Apples, Beets, Squash, Tomatoes, Sweet Potatoes

Protein: Chicken, Lamb Pairs well with: Allspice, Cloves, Nutmeg

Protein: lamb Pairs well with: Cinnamon, Nutmeg, Allspice and Basil

Use In: Curries, Soups, Sauces, Stuffing, Dry Rubs, Marinades

Produce: Bell Peppers, Potatoes, Onions, Tomatoes Protein: Chicken, Beef, Fish, Pork, Tofu Pairs well with: Chili Powder, Cumin, Cinnamon


Use In: Curries, Rice, Soups, Sauces, Dry Rubs, Marinades

E

Cumin

Garlic Powder Savory

Ginger Use In: Rice, Curries, Stir-Fries, Marinades

Use In: Curries, Soups, Sauces, Stir-fries, Dressings, Dry Rubs, Marinades Produce: Eggplant, Tomatoes, Zucchini, Carrots, Corn, Green Beans Protein: Beans, Chicken, Beef, Fish, Lentils, Pork, Tofu

Produce: Cabbage, Tomatoes, Zucchini, Carrots, Mushrooms Protein: Beans, Chicken, Beef, Fish, Tofu

Pairs well with: Garlic Powder, Turmeric, Ginger, Cinnamon, Oregano

Pairs well with: Oregano, Cumin, Coriander, Turmeric

Nutmeg

Produce: Carrots, Citrus, Sweet Potatoes, Beets, Squash Protein: Chicken , Beef, Fish, Pork, Tofu Pairs well with: Garlic Powder

Oregano

Sweet

arthy

Use In: Rice, Stuffings, Sauces

Paprika Use In: Rice,Soups, Salad Dressings, Marinades

Sweet, Warm

Use In: Soups, Salad Dressings, Tomato Sauces, Dry Rubs, Marinades

Produce: Broccoli, Cabbage, Carrots, Squash, Cauliflower, Sweet Potatoes Protein: lamb Pairs well with: Allspice, Cloves

Produce: Artichokes, Tomatoes, Bell Peppers, Zucchini, Potatoes, Mushrooms Protein: Beans, Chicken, Fish, Lamb, Pork Pairs well with: Chili Powder, Bay Leaves, Thyme

Rosemary

Produce: Bell Peppers, Squash, Cauliflower, Broccoli, Potatoes Protein: Chicken, Shellfish, Lamb, Tofu Pairs well with: Garlic Powder, Chili Powder, Cardamom, Cinnamon, Cumin

Turmeric

Thyme

arthy

Use In: Soups, Salad Dressings, Dry Rubs, Marinades

Use In: Curries, Rice

Use In: Marinades

Produce: Mushrooms, Peas, Potatoes, Onions Protein: Beans, Chicken, Lamb, Pork, Fish Pairs well with: Garlic Powder, Oregano, Thyme, Basil

Produce: Carrots, Tomatoes, Zucchini, Cauliflower, Green Beans, Peas Protein: Beef, Chicken, Fish, Lamb, Pork Pairs well with: Oregano, Rosemary

Produce: Cauliflower, Cabbage, Potatoes, Sweet Potatoes Protein: Bean, Lentils, Chicken, Fish, Tofu Pairs well with: Cardamom, Garlic Powder

TODAYMAGAZINE.CA 77


L BERTRAND

A GUIDE TO KNIV ES ONALD & RACHE

BY TABITHA MAC D

BREAD FILET CARVING KNIFE KNIFE KNIFE A serrated, long and strong blade that allows for cutting of all types of bread without crushing it. Can also be used for slicing many types of soft foods such as tomatoes.

A long, narrow and flexible knife perfect for filleting and preparing fish and meat. A long, slim blade with flexibility allows ease of movement for intricate meat cutting.

A long thin blade makes perfectly even and clean slices. May feature granton edge. The straight and sharp edges are designed to prevent juices from escaping from the meat.


CHEF’S BONING CLEAVER UTILITY STEAK PARING KNIFE KNIFE KNIFE KNIFE KNIFE It is the number one must-have knife for all kitchens. It has a strong blade and is heavy to hold. A wide triangular blade and curved belly allows for an easy rocking motion. This multi purpose knife can be used for all chopping and slicing tasks.

The thin blade and pointy tip is ideal for removing meat from bones, cutting fish, or poultry. The blades weight and thickness may vary.

A generally rectangular sturdy bladed knife used for heavy duty cutting. Can be used to cut through large cuts of meat or bones. Can also be used for tenderizing meat and crushing seeds or garlic.

An all round versatile knife that is smaller than a chef’s knife but larger than a paring knife. Great for chopping and slicing of fruits,veggies and smaller cuts of meat. May feature a straight or serrated edge.

The steak knife is well known for its slim and strong characteristics. As the name suggests it’s widely used for cutting and chopping steak because of its serrated edge.

A great everyday knife with a slim, fine blade, fine cutting edge and firm tip. The sharp blade can be used for small, intricate work or basic utility work. It’s best for trimming and peeling.

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TODAYMAGAZINE.CA 79


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Everything but the kitchen sink

FOOD FOR THOUGHT | THE TASTE IN OUR BUDS BEST FOOD MOVIES | EVENT LISTINGS

TODAYMAGAZINE.CA 81


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FOOD for THOUGHT FROZEN BANANAS

*

Bananas can be frozen for up to three months.

We all have them: it’s a vicious cycle that sees them being collected in the freezer, and then thrown out once an acceptable amount of time has passed (or an avalanche of bananas almost knocks you unconscious one day). Here are some great ideas to make sure those frozen fruits don’t go to waste: Make banana bread/muffins/cakes Turn them into a healthy ice cream treat (put the frozen bananas in a food processor or blender until it becomes creamy goodness. Pureed frozen bananas actually have a consistency close to that of soft serve once they are blended) Use them in smoothies or milkshakes Make pudding

TODAYMAGAZINE.CA 83


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COOKING GLOSSARY

Sometimes when you are reading a recipe, you come across an unfamiliar term, so you have to stop everything to look it up. Here’s a quick guide to some of the more obscure terms.

Blanch: to immerse in rapidly boiling water and allow to cook slightly, then put in ice water.

Clarify: to separate and remove solids from a liquid, making it clear. Dredge: to sprinkle or coat with flour or other fine substance. Macerate: to soften a solid food by soaking it in a liquid. Pare: to remove the outermost skin of a fruit or vegetable. Poach: to cook very gently in hot liquid kept just below the boiling point. Reduce: to boil down to reduce the volume



BY: MARIANA BOCKAROVA

THE TASTE IN OUR BUDS THE HUMAN PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE

I turned the wooden stick slowly until I could see the tip, sharpened fine as a pencil. As the fire crackled underneath, one lone spark caught the white fluff affixed, and I watched as it burst into a single flame. The sound of childhood excitement faded into the background and I lifted the stick and blew. >>


TODAYMAGAZINE.CA 87


AS THE FIRE CRACKLED UNDERNEATH, ONE LONE SPARK CAUGHT THE WHITE FLUFF AFFIXED, AND I WATCHED AS IT BURST INTO A SINGLE FLAME. Half burnt, half raw, I, with my appetite, which had now gone from whetted to famished, placed it in my mouth and chewed slowly. The smooth tasteless coating broke into a sticky, sugary, flavorful mess: After twenty-odd years, I had tasted my first roasted marshmallow. Though I had never experienced anything quite that texture, or, frankly, that oddly sweet before, I wondered how it was created and, further, how I was able to even taste something so clearly artificial. Of course, it has been estimated that man began “making” food (by way of cooking) some two million years ago, a marshmallow didn’t seem quite like natural food that had been cooked. How was it that a mammal would have the capacity to taste and enjoy something it was so clearly, it seemed, not designed to consume? And yet, this marshmallow was not only consumable, but enjoyable. How? As a chemical sensation that occurs in our mouths and throats, we human beings, much like other animals, have been equipped for evolutionary reasons with the primitive sense of taste not only to drive our appetite (which, of course, helps us feel the need to source food in order to acquire nutrients from it), but also to detect poisons in what we consume, helping to ensure that we survive in whatever environment we find ourselves in. For their nutritional value, we crave salty foods because we need sodium chloride to survive, and sweet foods because of a similar need to eat carbohydrates. Also, on the majority, we crave savoury flavours like meat to fulfill our need for amino acids. Bitter and sour tastes, however, are finely tuned in our mouths, as most poisons produce similar tastes and eating too much of them could have disastrous effects. The human physiology behind our ability to taste, however, is complex process, which involves not only our mouths but our nose (and even eyes!), as it is the combination of taste, smell, and sight that allows for the full experience of flavour. If you hold your nose while eating, for instance, you will notice that the food you consume loses taste. And when one complains of taste loss, according to researchers at the University of Pennsylvania Smell and Taste Center, this usually, and unsurprisingly, reflect a loss of smell function. Although taste and smell are very different senses, this is primarily because the two combine in the brain to give the sensation of flavour. Interestingly, new research also implicates vision in this process, as it has recently been found that what we see informs what we taste: “Our perception of food is affected by the sensory properties of the food itself, together with our expectations about the food and other contextual factors. The latter are especially relevant in the restaurant setting, where appearance factors, such as

the presentation of the food on the plates can dramatically affect food liking and consumption.” In a clever study looking at how accessories affect our perception of food, the researchers explored how the color (either black or white) and the shape of a plate on which identical strawberry mousse dessert was served would affect the perception of flavour intensity, sweetness, quality, and liking of the mousse in participants. After analyzing the results, the authors concluded: “The results demonstrated that while the colour of the plate exerted a significant influence on people’s perception of the food, the shape of the plate did not. In particular, when the mousse was served from a white plate, it was perceived as significantly more intense and sweeter, and was also liked more.” But vision and smell aside, throughout our mouths and throats we have chemical taste receptor cells (called chemoreceptors) that cluster together to form taste buds, which are made up of about 50-100 cells. These buds are invisible to the naked eye, but sit atop taste papillae, which are what we see as the little red dots on our tongues (they are red because they are densely packed with blood vessels!) . We have four primary types of papillae, each serving a different purpose. Fungiform papillae, of which we have around 200, are found at the front of our tongues and can distinguish all five tastes. Foliate papillae, of which we have only about five, are located at the edge of our tongues and are sensitive to sour tastes. Circumvallate papillae, of which we have from three to 13, are located along the tongue and responsible for sour and bitter senses. Lastly, we are also equipped with filiform papillae, which do not have a sense of taste. On the base of the papillae are nerve endings. We have three main nerves that communicate taste to our brains; the facial nerve, the hypoglossal nerve and the glossopharyngeal nerve, which all communicate taste from different parts of the mouth and throat. The trigeminal nerve, though it does not communicate taste, feeds our brains sensitive information about the texture and temperature of what we consume. When we bite into a delicious marshmallow, for instance, our saliva breaks down what we eat into chemicals, which are understood by the chemoreceptors in our mouths. These chemicals bond with chemicals in our chemoreceptors, travel through our nerves into the brain and eventually reach our gustatory system (though this process happens in nanoseconds). While we only have five different combinations of taste - sweet, salty, savoury, sour and bitter - because we integrate smell and sight, we are able to distinguish between thousands of tastes, from marshmallow to mango, and everything in between!

AS THE FIRE CRACKLED UNDERNEATH, ONE LONE SPARK CAUGHT THE WHITE FLUFF AFFIXED, AND I WATCHED AS IT BURST INTO A SINGLE FLAME.


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FOOD ON FILM BEST FOOD MOVIES OF ALL TIME

BY: LYNN OGRYZLO

Ask any food loving movie buff and you’ll hear Babette’s Feast touted as the greatest food movie of all time. While it is indisputably the first great food movie (early 1980s), since then, movie makers have perfected culinary seduction with scenes of slicing and dicing haute cuisine and sensual temptation of food. Here are a few of my modern day favourite food movies. >> TODAYMAGAZINE.CA 91


photo courtesy of fastcocreate.com

CHEF

I really, really want chef Carl Casper ( Jon Favreau) to cook for me, stretching his culinary muscle beyond anything I could think up. I think it would be marvelous to savour the food of someone so obsessed with perfection and detail. But the well-respected chef of a fine dining Los Angeles restaurant quits in a rage when his artistic pursuits are curtailed by Riva, the testy restaurant owner (Dustin Hoffman). Predictably, this begins the adventure to find himself through his cooking and even more predictably he finds a more balanced culinary life with time for his family, friends and culinary pursuits. The plot is less meaty than his Cuban sandwiches that become hugely popular and the movie ends with everyone living happily ever after – sorry to spoil it for you. While utterly predictable, the movie works because it continually whets your appetite for more of chef Carl’s food. photo courtesy of backtalk.kinja.com

THE BIG NIGHT

A labour of love for Stanley Tucci, who co-wrote, co-directed, and starred in this beautifully crafted drama about two Italian immigrant brothers Primo and Secondo (played by Tony Shalhoub and Stanley Tucci) now Jersey Shore restaurateurs who bank their entire future on one night – The Big Night. I love this movie for many reasons, the top being that Shalhoub and Tucci brilliantly make me believe they’re more obsessed with the perfection of food than anyone I’ve ever met. The rest of the characters are introduced in such a personal way that when they consume food so off-the-top delicious, in obscene amounts it crosses the line from a physical act to a spiritual and sexual one. There are a few classic lines such as “To eat good food is to be close to God” and my favourite, “this food is so f ’ing good, I could kill myself !” The Big Night sets the bar high for all-time great food movies.

photo courtesy of movpins.com

photo courtesy of bob-the-movie-man.com

THE HUNDRED-FOOT JOURNEY

The movie takes place in a village just outside Paris, France and is about a naturally talented cook, Hassan Kadam (Manish Dayal), stuck in a family restaurant right across the street from a very elegant French, Michelin star restaurant, Le Saule Pleurer - 100feet across the street in fact. The story is about Hassans culinary journey of trials and triumphs and throughout, we always meet the food that inspires him. Unfortunately, the movie is dominated by the dynamics between Madame Mallory (Helen Mirren) and Papa Kadams (Om Puri), the two restaurant owners. Kadams struggle to fit in versus Mallory’s culinary pretension. I love Helen Mirren, and in this movie, she steals the show. There are some great food scenes and it’s an interesting story so I call it a great food movie, but I recommend you read the book, it’s even better. >>


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HAUTE CUISINE

She’s like the female version of Thomas Keller (a famous American chef ). I love watching Hortense Laborie (Catherine Frot) cook elaborate French dishes. I wish I were next to her with a spoon to taste the sauces and could go to the market with her to negotiate with the farmers. Hortense is a naturally talented chef who was chosen to be the private chef for the French President, François Mitterand ( Jean D’Ormesson). The scenes of them talking of food philosophies and childhood dishes are endearing. Even the stuffy traditions in the palace (right down to the waiters in black tails) add elegance to the food, yet it’s rife with deadly politics. Laborie is an incredibly talented and soft-spoken chef with a backbone of steel who simply decides (like many female chefs) that she will no longer put up with the viciousness and humiliation of a testosterone soaked kitchen. Before she left though, I wish she had left us with her recipes. This movie makes me want to jump up and cook something – the measure of a great food movie.

JULIE AND JULIA

If you didn’t sit up and feel stunned amazement of Meryl Streep’s portrayal of Julia Child, well, admit it - you’re just not into food movies. A really good chick-flick, Julie and Julia is a story of a bored office clerk Julie Powell (Amy Adams) who lives her life through the delicious pages of Julia Childs cookbook, Mastering the Art of French Cooking. She decides to cook all 524 recipes in 365 days

and blog about it each day. The movie is a good contrast between the two ladies; the brilliant life of Child with her unwavering dedication to perfection and the ordinary life of Powell and her obsession to complete her project. Both Streep and Adams are brilliant in this movie as is Julia’s husband, the ever-supportive Paul Child (Stanley Tucci). The movie definitely could have done with a bit more tempting food visuals, or drama, or something – but definitely worth the bucket of popcorn.

EAT DRINK MAN WOMAN

Asian food movies with subtitles are a recipe for disaster because you’re in a constant fight to read the words while try to manage to stay glued to the film. This is a story about one of the world’s greatest chefs, Chu (Sihung Lung) in Taipei, Taiwan trying to communicate with his three teenage daughters who are wild and full of life. He does it the only way he knows how, through their tradition of Sunday night dinners. A riveting plot it isn’t but I yearn to be a guest at the table after the elaborate preparation of the exotic dishes. Chu gives new meaning to farm-to-table dining by raising his own chickens and fish and preparing elaborate meals with them. Obviously not a prettied-up film for North American’s weak culinary sensibilities but through food, this movie is mysterious, delicious, exotic, tense, sensual, spellbinding and supremely motivating. It made me run out to the closest Asian restaurant and order almost everything I couldn’t understand, just because I could.

While it’s hard to think a rat in a kitchen is anything but gross, you quickly get over it – Remy (voice of Patton Oswalt) rocks! When this talented cartoon rat with a gourmet palate and a nose for aromas works his magic in the kitchen he’s actually more believable than many human actors and guess why? He’s been coached by Thomas Keller who is Executive Chef and Ratatouille Designer (whatever that means) for the movie. Remy finds himself at a fine dining Parisian restaurant, Gusteau’s, where he befriends a misfit dishwasher, Linguini (voice of Lou Romano) and together they cook their way to fame. A rat in a restaurant is never a good thing so Remy hides in Linguini’s hat and pulls his hair like a puppeteer to guide Linguini through the most complex of French dishes. Ratatouille is a masterpiece of animation, comedy and culinary imagination and if Remy had his own television show on the food network, I’d watch it!

“This much I know. If you are what you eat, then I only wanna eat the good stuff.” – Ratatouille

photo courtesy of superiorpics.com.

RATATOUILLE


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TASTY NIAGARA EVENTS

OKTOBERFEST FRIDAY, OCTOBER 16TH NIAGARA BREWING COMPANY Bringing the German festival to Niagara Falls, the Niagara Brewing Company is hosting Oktoberfest. A long time celebration is honoured with great food, great beer, and great people. Bring your friends for an entertaining and traditional festival.

TASTE THE SEASON FRIDAY, SATURDAY AND SUNDAYS IN NOVEMBER, FROM 11 TO 5 NIAGARA-ON-THE-LAKE Enjoy delicious food and wine pairings at all participating wineries. A touring pass can be purchased and you are able to use it throughout the month. More info at wineriesofniagaraonthelake.com

NIAGARA CULINARY EXPERIENCES: RAINBOW ROOM BY MASSIMO CAPRA NOVEMBER 13TH RAINBOW ROOM The Rainbow Room presents a culinary tour of Piedmont, which is considered by many to be the culinary Holy Grail of Italy. Celebrity chef Massimo Capra celebrates this culinary capital with a hand-crafted menu that features pairings from our winery partner Pio Cesare Winery who has been crafting the Region's famous wines for more than 134 years. Ticket info: 1-800-263-2552

NIAGARA CULINARY EXPERIENCES: WINDOWS BY JAMIE KENNEDY DECEMBER 4TH SHERATON ON THE FALLS HOTEL A fabulous Christmas dinner more like your great, great Grandmother used to make. We are looking back into our history to bring a turn of the last century farmhouse Christmas feast to you in the modern elegance of the Windows falls view dining room. A truly memorable evening, our Heritage Farmhouse Christmas is resplendent with all of the trappings of our past. Ticket info: 1-800-263-2552

THE FIVE ELVES YULETIDE TOUR DECEMBER 5TH & 6TH TWENTY VALLEY Join us for a holiday Open House as we celebrate the season with our neighbours - Malivore wine Company, Vineland Estates Winery, Tawse Winery and Ridgepoint Winery. Each winery will have their own special events on all weekend - back vintage tastings, food pairings, cocktail ideas or sleigh rides. Buy tickets at all wineries during the event.

ICEWINE DINNER WITH JAMIE KENNEDY JANUARY 15TH SHERATON ON THE FALLS Celebrate Niagara’s “liquid gold”! Chef Jamie Kennedy incorporates this sweet treat into a menu, which will lead to a wonderfully, delicious evening for all diners! Ticket info: 1-800-263-2552 TODAYMAGAZINE.CA 97


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