Japan’s number one English language magazine
ALSO: Why You Shouldn’t Buy a Pet in Japan, Q&A with “Hibana” Author Naoki Matayoshi, and Judoka Warrior Ami Kondo
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Prepare yourself for the heights of indulgence at luxury ryokan Hakone Ginyu Nestled on the mountainous slopes near Miyanoshita Station, Hakone Ginyu is known as one of Japan’s top ryokans. It may take you less than two hours to reach this unique getaway from Tokyo, but between its unparalleled views, the attentive service, and the comfort of the tastefully designed rooms, the life you left behind in the city might seem thousands of miles away.
www.hakoneginyu.co.jp
Miyanoshita, Hakone-machi, Ashigarashimo-gun, Kanagawa Prefecture 250-0404 Tel: 0460-82-3355 100-1 T OKYO WE E KE N DE R | J U LY 2 0 1 6 | 3
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in-depth
THIS MONTH’S HEAD TURNERS
COFFEE-BREAK READS
9 AREA GUIDE: TOMIGAYA
21 TOHOKU TRAVEL SPECIAL
It’s the perfect blend of traditional shops, hip businesses, and casual hangout spots
We begin our journey with one reader’s travels through Aomori, Fukushima, and Iwate, before discovering the many charms of Akita
12 STYLE Brace yourselves for the sultry season with our latest shopping wish list
14 BEAUTY Organic goes chic with our roundup of top Japanese products and salons
38 JUDOKA WARRIOR Meet the woman who could be Japan’s next greatest female judo practitioner
guide CULTURE ROUNDUP 41 THE ART WORLD
32 WHY YOU SHOULDN’T BUY A PET IN JAPAN
This month’s must-see exhibitions
We investigate the shocking statistics of the country’s animal welfare
43 TV What’s streaming on Netflix Japan: “Hibana,” “Shinya Shokudo,” and “Terrace House”
JULY 2016
radar
42
34 THE OUTSIDERS 16 TRENDS Health-conscious chocaholics are in for a treat with this bean-to-bar selection
From skateboarding to stand-up paddleboarding, here’s where to get moving
44 AGENDA Get ready for festivals including Brazilian Day, Shinjuku Eisa, and Africa Hibiya
36 FINDING DEPTH IN COMEDY 18 WHAT’S NEW AT MAX BRENNER For starters, there’s a brand-new brunch menu, and some icy delights for summer
We chat to Naoki Matayoshi about the success of his novel, “Hibana,” and the new Netflix series based on the book
46 PEOPLE, PARTIES, PLACES Judging the Miss Supranational beauty pageant, and remembering Muhammad Ali
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J U LY 2 0 16 Publisher
ENGAWA Co., Ltd.
President
Takanobu Ushiyama
Executive Producer Editors
Art Director Sales Director Sales Executive Media Relations Chief Producers
Account Executives Media Consultant Society
Asi Rinestine Annemarie Luck Alec Jordan Liam Ramshaw Hirofumi Ohuchi Kahori Terakawa Junko Shimaya Yumi Idomoto Claudia Sun Nobu (Nick) Nakazawa Mary Rudow Bill Hersey
Lead Writer
Matthew Hernon
Editorial Associates
Natalie Jacobsen Vivian Morelli Luca Eandi
EST. Corky Alexander, 1970 Published monthly at JPR Sendagaya Building 8F 4-23-5 Sendagaya, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo 151-0051 (03) 6863-3096 / (03) 5413-3050 (fax) editor@tokyoweekender.com To subscribe to the Tokyo Weekender, please call (03) 6863-3096 or email: customer-support@tokyoweekender.com For ad sales inquiries, please call (03) 6863-3096 or email: sales@tokyoweekender.com 広告に関するお問い合わせ先 電話：(03)6863-3096 メール：sales@tokyoweekender.com Opinions expressed by Weekender contributors are not necessarily those of the publisher
Published by ENGAWA Co., Ltd.
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@mizrama: This month we’re taking quite a unique look at traveling around the Tohoku region. Alec, you’ve spent some time in Akita ... What’s your favorite thing about the prefecture? @bapawn: I’ve only been up that way once, but being there made me think about a few things. One of them is how the geography of Japan has helped to develop such marked differences in traditions and even in language. Even as a foreigner, you don’t have to travel a long distance to feel those changes. @mizrama: So true. David Song, who I interviewed for our Tohoku Travel Special [page 22], made a similar observation. He recently spent a few weeks traveling around the region, and for him, the thing that struck him the most was how content the people are. Especially considering the aftermath of the 2011 disaster. @bapawn: Hmm ... he sounds quite optimistic. From what I’ve heard from people who are working in the communities that were badly hit, there is still a lot to do and quite a lot of suffering. But I think that people also forget how large the Tohoku area is! Much of it wasn’t damaged.
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@mizrama: Yes, he commented on that too; that there is plenty to do and see in the areas that weren’t affected by the disaster. One of the best reasons to visit is, of course, the amazing Aomori Nebuta Matsuri – as featured on our cover. @bapawn: Definitely. And, if you’re inspired by these tales of the road but don’t have the time to head all the way up to Tohoku, there’s still plenty of adventure to be had within or near Tokyo. Have you ever tried stand up paddleboarding, by the way? @mizrama: I have! Although it was on a flat lake and, this being Japan, any time I tried to go past a certain point, the lifeguards started frantically waving me back to shore. I’m sure the spots recommended in our outdoor feature [page 34] will be far more exciting. @bapawn: I have to admit, though, when the weather’s at it’s warmest, that’s almost the ideal time to Netflix and chill. @mizrama:
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WH AT ’ S O N O U R RA DA R TH I S MONTH . . . We’ve been on the hunt for artisanal chocolate, and we found it in Tomigaya – the neighborhood featured in July’s area guide – as well as at a host of bean-to-bar chocolate shops that have been popping up around Tokyo.
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ARE A G UI DE JUST MINUTES AWAY FROM THE CROWDS IN SHIBUYA IS A LITTLE QUIET NEIGHBORHOOD WITH THE PERFECT BLEND OF TRADITIONAL SHOPS, HIP BUSINESSES AND CASUAL HANGOUT SPOTS
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STOP, SHOP AND STROLL Jet-setting lifestyle magazine “Monocle” chose Tomigaya as the location for their retail store, which deals in product partnerships with brands like Comme des Garçons, Porter, Barena and Mackintosh – and it’s not hard to understand why they like the inviting setting. Walking around the neighborhood, it’s fun to see traditional businesses, like Tailor Masumi with its charming facade, sharing real estate with modern storefronts like that of trendy toy store Project 1/6. Although you do have to wonder how specialty shops like German Hobby Dora, which sells rare plastic scale models, will afford rising rents in Tomigaya, but here’s to hoping they can keep up.
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SNACKS APLENTY Besides your usual French bakeries and konbinis, Tomigaya has some great spots to pick up a quick walkaround snack. On those hot summer afternoons, look no further than Gelateria Theobroma for freshly made, creamy gelato. If that’s not enough to satisfy your sweet tooth, Cacao Store offers enough bean-to-bar treats to send you straight back to a Chocoholics Anonymous meeting. For those who have never had a pastel de nata, a Portuguese egg custard in a puff pastry shell, prepare to be hooked by the selection at Nata de Cristiano. End off with a stop at Fuglen, a hip Norwegian café/ cocktail bar with a vintage-style interior that’s perfect for coffee or cocktail sipping while people watching.
LET’S DO LUNCH
GET CULTURED
Some neighborhoods indulge your dinner and nightlife needs but Tomigaya seems more content serving up casual lunches. There’s a plethora of lively cafés where you can tuck into a hearty sandwich, delicious soup or healthy salad. Cafe Greed is one such place; it offers a varied menu and also happens to serve a mean espresso. Similar in concept and just down the street is Camelback Sandwich & Espresso. You can’t miss the cow statue in front of Shibuya Cheese Stand – they serve up freshly made mozzarella and ricotta in a variety of tasty sandwiches. A rarity in Tokyo, Glutenfree Cafe Little Bird caters to celiac disease sufferers and otherwise glutenintolerant folk. If you do find yourself in the neighborhood for dinner, fear not, as places like Ahiru Store, Path, and Tomigaya Terrace
Tomigaya borders the southwest corner of Yoyogi Park, so you can stroll over to Meiji Jingu Gyoen in a matter of minutes. This is the often-overlooked inner garden of Meiji Shrine and features a Japanese-style tea house, an iris garden, a turtle and koi pond, and “power spot” Kiyomasa’s Well. If you want to keep it local, however, on a hill just to the north of the neighborhood lies the historic Yoyogihachiman Shrine, founded in 1212 by a warrior of the Genji Clan. On the same premises, you can see a reconstruction of a 4,500-year-old straw dwelling discovered only relatively recently in 1950. If you’re seeking some art, the Toguri Museum of Art is conveniently located on your way south towards Shibuya, close to the Bunkamura Art Museum and Orchard Hall performing arts center. This month, the museum is exhibiting imari (Japanese porcelain).
can take care of your supper needs.
THE BOOK IS BETTER Augmenting the chill vibes of the neighborhood, Tomigaya is also home to several independent bookstores to give you something to read over lunch. Shibuya Publishing & Booksellers is one of the best local publishers, and the Tomigaya location serves as their headquarters as well as their flagship store. Just down the street, Rhythm and Books is a charming hole in the wall for those with cavernous reading appetites. If you prefer motion pictures to static pages, movie theater Uplink is also nearby, and is a great place to catch the latest batch of independent film releases. The cultural complex also includes a gallery, a gift shop, and the laid-back Tabela café.
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STYLE
201604-022
ILLESTEVA SUNGLASSES Celebrate the end of rainy season and the start of (real!) summer with the only accessory you’ll need on a quasi daily basis. Picking out a pair of sunglasses can be a bit daunting: should you go for the designer investment pair, or go the cheap and trendy route because you’ll end up losing them anyway? We think this Italian-made Illesteva number is a good compromise. While not astronomically priced, it has the cool brand name and a classic round frame that won’t go out of style any time soon; it’s also flattering for many face shapes. The rose mirrored lenses and thick black frame add a stylish touch. illesteva.com
MERCURY RISING BRACE YOURSELVES FOR THE SULTRY SEASON WITH THESE MUST-HAVES Compiled by Vivian Morelli
COMMON PROJECTS SNEAKERS According to New York magazine, pink sneakers are the new white sneakers, so take your pick from the many options available, ranging from hot pink to barely there peachy tones. This pair of Common Projects is our favorite, thanks to its versatile blush hue and sleek, minimalistic design. The brand has only been around for two years, but it has already achieved cult status for its utilitarian look and Italian quality. The only logo you’ll find on this shoe is the label’s serial number in gold. Pair it with florals for a sporty edge, or put them in the spotlight with just a white tee and jeans. commonprojects.com
BRUNELLO CUCINELLI DENIM SHIRT A denim shirt is a wardrobe staple, and an item you won’t regret purchasing. If you’re revamping your closet with classics, we suggest you splurge on a version that’s got longevity. And when it comes to shelling out for designer pieces, Brunello Cucinelli is a best bet. Renowned for his cashmere pieces and innovative vision, he represents the pinnacle of Italian luxury. This slim-fit denim shirt will look good on its own, or layered over a T-shirt. Pair it with dark trousers or jeans, but make sure the denim is in a different shade to avoid the dreaded “Canadian tuxedo” look. brunellocucinelli.com
AESOP EXFOLIANT PASTE Seasonal changes mean keeping a close eye on your skincare routine, and let’s be honest, a clear complexion is your best accessory (turn the page for more help on this). While you don’t need to go all out and invest your precious time in a multi-step skincare ritual, exfoliating is a step that should not be skipped. The good news is, you only need to do it once or twice a week, and it doesn’t take too long. This Aesop Purifying Facial Exfoliant Paste is formulated with rosemary, primrose and lavender oil, and its fine grains will slough off dead cells and banish impurities, resulting in glowing skin. Who wouldn’t want that? aesop.com
JIMMY CHOO ESPADRILLES
THE ROW JEANS Scorching hot and humid Japanese summers may make you hesitant when it comes to buying a pair of jeans in July. The truth is, while summer in the Land of the Rising Sun is indeed unbearably hot, Tokyoite fashionistas dress according to fashion and not the weather. Plus, with heavily air conditioned trains, offices and pretty much all indoor venues, a little coverage is definitely welcome. This pair of jeans from The Row embodies summer: a light blue wash with a slight fading, and a relaxed straight-leg fit. Pair them with a silk camisole for after-work drinks, or with a soft cotton T-shirt for outdoor outings. therow.com
Step into summer with a lightweight pair of espadrilles, which is a fancy word to describe casual canvas slippers. A bit of historical research tells us that espadrilles have been a Catalan favorite for centuries, so it’s safe to say it’s a classic summer essential. They’re also easy slip-on shoes, which is perfect in Japan, where you may need to take off your shoes several times a day. Among all the different styles, we especially like this Jimmy Choo pair, not only for the name, but for its subtle camouflage pattern and contrasting stitching. They are halfway between espadrilles and sneakers, so they’re a good starter pair if you’re not feeling too confident about the espadrille look. jimmychoo.com
F ORGANICS TH E BRAND Aiming to bring a touch of elegance into Japan’s organic beauty world, F Organics features sophisticated packaging and luxurious textures. Founded by Yoko Tagami, the brand’s focus is on anti-ageing and hormonal balance, and all the skincare products feature four active natural ingredients: cotton thistle, damask rose, pomegranate, and frankincense oil. Using the latest botanical technology, F Organics encourages a healthier balance and, as a result, brighter, firmer, smoother skin.
BE AU T Y
WH AT TO TRY Moisture Cleansing Cream (¥4,104), Moisture Lotion (¥4,104), Moisture Cream (¥5,076). Also look out for their summer body kit, which debuted in June. f-organics.jp
Chic Organic Four excellent Japanese brands to try, and four spas for a mini organic getaway Compiled by Annemarie Luck
DO ORGANIC T HE B RA N D Created with sensitive skin in mind, Do Organic is one of the most popular Japanese organic brands on the market. More than 95 percent of its plant-based materials are certified as organic, and it features rice bran extract as a main ingredient. The promise? Improved elasticity and firmness, a more even skin tone, and protection against harsh environmental elements. W HAT TO TRY Washing Mousse (¥3,240) featuring honey and licorice extracts, and a fresh rose scent; Enrich Cream Advanced (¥6,480) featuring avocado oil, oat extract, chamomile flower oil, and rosemary oil. www.do-organic.com
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RUHAKU THE BRAND Created in Tokyo, Ruhaku takes inspiration from Okinawan traditions and herbs. Their three main ingredients are gettou, a herb from the ginger family that’s known for its antibacterial qualities; shekwasha, which is a citrus fruit that helps to prevent cell damage and sunspots; and sea grapes (aka green caviar), which are rich in minerals and vitamins, and are naturally moisturizing. WHAT TO TRY Gettou Night Repair Oil (¥3,960) featuring rosehip oil, pomegranate seed oil, and frankincense; Shekwasha Brightening Essence (¥4,950) to help uneven skin tone and clogged pores. ruhaku.jp
ABOVE F Organics spa offers luxurious organic treatments
ORGANIC SPAS IN TOKYO F ORGAN ICS Founded as an extension of the F Organics brand, this salon in Daikanyama is housed in a century-old Japanese home, and offers indulgent facial and body treatments. If you feel like spoiling yourself, go for the Organic Beauty Enlightenment all-round treatment (¥18,000, 120 minutes). f-organics.jp/salon.html
T E R ME F E LICE
THREE T HE B RA N D A favorite of Asian beauty editors, this range is possibly the closest thing to an “It” brand in the Japanese organic beauty market. It benefits from sleek, modern branding that extends through to its store interiors, and its flagship shop in Aoyama includes a healthy dining space and a spa. Using local ingredients including tea seed oil from Aomori and yuzu seed oil from Kochi, the brand takes a holistic approach and focuses on balancing and strengthening the whole body. W HAT TO T RY Point Makeup Remover (¥2,800) featuring richly formulated natural oils and a beautiful yellow-and-white double layer that turns a milky lemon color when shaken; Balancing Cleansing Oil (¥4,000) featuring oils such as frankincense, bergamot fruit, rosemary, and sweet orange. www.threecosmetics.com
Owner Yukari Toufuku is dedicated to finding the best organic treatments and cosmetics from around the world, so you can trust that the products being used at Terme Felice are top notch. The spa, which is close to Daikanyama Station, offers customized facials and a detox course to help get rid of toxins. tfdbeauty.jp
E LAN A JAD E Based in Azabu Juban and owned by Australian Elana Jade Gilbert, this organic beauty salon offers a range of products to try, mostly sourced from Australia. Men are catered for too with the “Executive Men” course (¥21,700, 2.5 hours), which includes a facial, oil massage and manicure. www.elanajade.com
R H YT H M S PA Situated on the second floor of Three’s store in Aoyama, this salon is open to both men and women, and offers a wonderful head spa menu. Try their Summer Special Edition (¥18,000, 75 minutes), which is offered until August 31 and designed to help you recharge during Tokyo’s exhausting humid season. aoyama.threecosmetics.com/spa-menu
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BEAN-TO-BAR
Chocolate It is healthier, has a richer flavor, and is expertly crafted Compiled by Annemarie Luck
GREEN BEAN TO BAR
DANDELION
TH E STORY Chocolate lovers may have already heard of Chloe Doutre-Roussel. Based in France, she’s a renowned expert on all things chocolate, is the author of “The Chocolate Connoisseur”, and has long been at the forefront of the bean-to-bar trend. This bean-to-bar speciality café was founded in collaboration with her, and now has two branches in Japan: the first in Nakameguro, Tokyo; the second in Fukuoka.
T H E S TORY Known simply as Todd and Cam, the founders of Dandelion describe their journey from chocolate lovers to bean-to-bar factory and café owners like this: “Our friends watched as we experimented with growing cacao plants in our apartments, pan roasted beans in the oven, and ate our way through the chocolate shops of the world.” They first opened up in San Francisco, and expanded to Tokyo in February 2016. W H Y W E LOVE T H E M They personally visit all the farms they collaborate with to see how they work. Once they receive the beans, they do as many as eight to 16 tastings before deciding on a profile for each new batch – but generally, their focus is on the pure flavor of the bean, which means they don’t add things like cocoa butter or lecithin. And of course, their packaging is oh-so-beautiful.
WH Y WE LOVE T HEM They purchase well-fermented and dried cacao beans from select growers around the world. Then they sort, roast, crack, winnow, grind, refine, conch, temper, and wrap all by hand – if you’re skeptical about their process, you can observe each step at the shop, or attend a workshop. Lastly, most of their bars only have two ingredients: cacao and organic sugar.
WH AT TO TRY “Discover the world of bonbons chocolate” from the tasting menu. 2-16-11 Aobadai, Meguro-ku. greenchocolate.jp
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FROM TOP Green Bean to Bar treats
W H AT TO T RY Their menu changes frequently, but you’re always likely to be able to order a cup of their delicious House Hot Chocolate. 4-14-5 Kuramae, Taito-ku. www.dandelionchocolate.com
C H O C O L AT E T E A With these three healthy drinks, even teatime can turn into chocolate time
T E A B OU T IQU E CACAO T EA Tea Boutique is one of the product lines of Japan Greentea, a company that’s been in the tea business since 1969. Their Cacao Tea is made with only cacao shells and chicory, and offers a rich, aromatic chocolate-y blend. Buy it from Amazon.jp or a variety of stockists listed on jp-greentea.co.jp.
MINIMAL BEAN TO BAR CHOCOLATE T H E STORY After opening their first shop in Shibuya in 2014, Takatsugu Yamashita and Kosuke Tabuchi created a stir in the local beanto-bar market. Their chocolates have become so popular that in June 2016 they opened a branch in Ginza called Bean to Bar Stand. W H Y WE LOVE T HEM They have a knack for creating an amazing array of flavors – including “fruity”, “nutty,” and “savory” – without chemical additives. “The flavor just comes from the beans,” says Yamashita. W H AT TO TRY Can’t decide what to buy? Try their free samples of cacao beans, nibs, ground nibs, and chocolate. Flagship shop: 2-1-9 Tomigaya, Shibuya-ku. Bean to Bar Stand: 3-8-13 Ginza, Chuo-ku. mini-mal.tokyo
E N GLIS H T E A S H OP CH OCO L ATE, ROOIB OS & VAN ILLA
FROM TOP Visit Minimal’s new Bean to Bar Stand in Ginza, hot chocolate at Dandelion (below left)
THE FLAVOR JUST COMES FROM THE BEANS
Originally from the UK, English Tea Shop has a branch in Japan selling a range of delicious, organic blends. Our favorite is the Chocolate, Rooibos & Vanilla, which includes cacao nibs and vanilla pods. Buy it from Amazon.jp or stockists listed on www.etsjapan.co.jp.
T E APIGS CH OCOLAT E F LAKE TEA This beautifully packaged teatime treat by UK brand Teapigs is made with black tea, cocoa beans, chocolate flakes, and natural flavor. Besides drinking it straight, they recommend trying it with milk or cream or as an iced tea. Buy it from Amazon.jp or www.teapigs.co.uk (international delivery available).
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[ PROMOTION ]
What’s New AT MAX BRENNER CHOCOLATE BAR Weekender picks five of our favorite treats from the restaurant’s new brunch menu, launching on July 7, along with a few icy delights to beat the summer heat
M
aking chocoholics’ dreams come true since 1996, Max Brenner started out in Israel and has since expanded to include more than 50 locations around the world. Its first Japan branch opened in 2013, while the latest and biggest branch in Japan opened in April 2016 in Ikspiari shopping mall at Tokyo Disney Resort in Chiba. While probably most famous for creating the chocolate pizza, Max Brenner continues to innovate, so you’ll often find unique menu items popping up as the seasons change and trends evolve. But the common
BAG ELS DIPPE D IN CH OCOLAT E If you’re the type who likes to keep your breakfast combo a little more simple, you might enjoy this soft plain bagel that’s served with chocolate fondue as well as a cheese dip. It also comes with your choice of tea or coffee. ¥600
theme that always remains is the idea that chocolate is a way of life. Every time you enter a Max Brenner Chocolate Bar, it’s like you’ve been transported into the center of a chocolate love story – all your senses are catered for, from holding a warm, rounded mug as you sip on hot chocolate to breathing in its heady aroma. Need more inspiration to visit one of the cafés? Read on for Weekender’s five most anticipated dishes on the new brunch menu, which launches on July 7, and for our top three cooling desserts on the limited summer menu.
B E S T OF S UMME R
CACAO N IB S GRAN OLA Picking up on the cacao trend (see page 16), Max Brenner offers this new healthy dish featuring plain yogurt, strawberries, banana, and granola with delicious, rich cacao nibs containing roasted shells from cacao beans. ¥700
G R I L LE D CH E E S E PAN IN I
C ONTACT Hiroo Plaza 5-6-6 Hiroo Plaza, Hiroo, Shibuya-ku Phone: 03 6450 2400 Omotesando Hills 4-12-10 Omotesando Hills, Jingumae, Shibuya-ku | Phone: 03 5413 5888 Tokyo Solamachi 1-1-2 Tokyo Skytree Town, Oshiage, Sumida-ku | Phone: 03 5610 6400 Ikspiari 1-4 Maihama, Urayasu-shi, Chiba Phone: 047 325 9170 Lucua Osaka North Gate Bldg, 3-1-3 Umeda, Kita-ku, Osaka | Phone: 06 6147 7440 maxbrenner.co.jp
When it comes to finding a satisfying snack, you can’t go wrong with a bacon and cheese toasted sandwich, and this version comes on a wholewheat panini after being baked to perfection. It’s also served with a mini side salad. ¥750
Max Brenner Chocolate Bar is offering a limited menu until August 31. Here’s what to order: MAX’S I SCREAM CHOCOLATE PIZZA with ice cream and marshmallows (¥900); LUXURY MILKSHAKE with cream, an ice cream cone, cookies, and a waffle (¥1,400); SALTED PINEAPPLE CHOCTAIL with white chocolate and pineapple (¥750).
H I ROO K I DS ’ WORKS H O P
M A RGH E RITA PAN IN I For a delicious savory experience, this panini is made from wholewheat flour and baked with basil sauce, tomato, and mozzarella cheese. It’s served with a mini side salad too, making it a good option for healthier eaters. ¥750
C HO C O LAT E F R E N CH TOAS T Start your day with fluffy French toast and crunchy granola topped with freshly sliced strawberries and banana, and drizzled with melted milk chocolate. Bound to satisfy those who have both a sweet and savory tooth. ¥800
Head to Max Brenner’s Hiroo Plaza branch for these twice-monthly events, where kids create chocolate desserts, and enjoy plenty of other fun activities. Great for birthday parties! Call 03 6450 2400 for info.
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“IT’S GOT EVERYTHING” This is what travel company owner David Song said when asked why he recommends Tohoku as a top vacation destination. We begin our Tohoku Travel Special with photos and musings from Song, who recently spent weeks exploring the region’s six prefectures. Then, we continue our tour by taking an in-depth look at Akita, which is home to the famed “obako” (women who symbolize the area’s youth and richness), the Warabi-za theatrical group, and some of the most moving fireworks displays you’ll ever see.
TOKYOWEEKENDER.COM
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Interview by Annemarie Luck. Photographs by David Song
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[ TOHOKU TRAVEL SPECIAL ]
David Song, founder of Singapore-based bespoke travel company Beyond X Boundaries, recently spent several weeks exploring Japan’s Tohoku region. To kick off our Tohoku Travel Special, we asked the seasoned traveler to share his photos from three of the prefectures – Aomori, Fukushima, and Iwate – along with notes on his discoveries WHAT INSPIRED YOUR JOURNEY AROUND TOHOKU, AND HOW LONG DID IT TAKE?
DO YOU FEEL THAT THERE ARE SIGNS OF THE AREA REGENERATING?
I’ve always been an advocate for experiential travel to Japan with its rich heritage and culture, not to mention the unbelievable cuisine. Where Tohoku is concerned, it has been five years since the 2011 earthquake and tsunami, and since then tourism – and therefore business – has been greatly affected largely due to the media’s wrong association of the disasters with the entire region. The disasters affected only a small part of Tohoku. I hope to spread awareness and education of the positives through my journey.
Yes. It’s been five years and, even in Fukushima Prefecture, I saw no hints of the tragedy at all. I think international travelers need to get over it and stop stigmatizing the incident. Tourism Tohoku has been active in their marketing and promotion of the region, which is great. Travelers have already been to many other parts of Japan. Now they are curious and dying to discover the magic of Tohoku.
TELL US ABOUT YOUR FIRST IMPRESSION OF THE AREA.
It is currently not consumed by mass tourism. This has helped to keep Tohoku pleasant, less crowded, and more intimate. For Japan travel connoisseurs, Tohoku is a region with everything encompassed – it’s even a great ski destination too. It has got everything. Great food, extremely hospitable people who redefine the meaning of Japanese omotenashi, exciting boutique accommodations, spectacular landscapes, and of course a wonderful array of festivals. It also combines extremely well with Hokkaido following the introduction of the Hokkaido Shinkansen. And it’s convenient to get to from Tokyo.
My first stop was Aomori city and I was immediately enamored by the city’s subtlety, and the friendly locals. Speaking not a word of Japanese, I visited a local izakaya called Ringochaya, which translates to “Apple Tea House.” I was probably the first non-Japanese-speaking visitor to visit the bar but the locals made me feel very welcome. The bar plays host to Tsugaru-style shamisen so I was also treated to some astonishing music. It is unbelievably authentic, and would you believe I ended up hanging out with the locals and kampai-ing on sake till the bar closed.
WHAT MADE THE MOST IMPACT ON YOU? The smiles of the people. Despite being unfairly documented regarding the earthquake and tsunami five years ago, the people wore smiles as if nothing negative had happened to them. These are some of the happiest people I’ve ever met – not just in Japan but around the world, and I’ve been to 58 countries so I’m speaking from experience.
WHY WOULD YOU RECOMMEND PEOPLE VISIT TOHOKU?
DO YOU PLAN TO START OFFERING BESPOKE TOURS TO THIS REGION THROUGH YOUR COMPANY? That is without doubt the plan as I feel Tohoku has boundless possibilities. With the Olympics coming to Tokyo in 2020, I feel that Tohoku will be reborn. For more information about David’s travels and tours, visit www.beyondxboundaries.com.
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TOHOKU TRAVEL SPECIAL: FUKUSHIMA & IWATE
Fukushima “Due to the nuclear disaster at Fukushima Daiichi, this prefecture is now famous for the wrong reasons. So naturally, many were concerned and asked me what the heck I was doing in Fukushima. Firstly, we should get our geography right by recognizing that this prefecture is huge. Secondly, although it is true that the coastal cities are now abandoned, the inner lands of Fukushima are undamaged. I had an exceptional time in this region renowned for its hidden hot springs, the best sake in the country (Niigata Prefecture may want to contest that), and stunning towns. People were so inviting, and when asked how they feel about what the rest of the world is thinking about Fukushima, one old lady replied, ‘It’s okay. No problem. We continue’.”
WHEN ASKED HOW THEY FEEL ABOUT WHAT THE REST OF THE WORLD IS THINKING ABOUT FUKUSHIMA, ONE OLD LADY REPLIED, ‘IT’S OKAY. NO PROBLEM. WE CONTINUE’
Iwate “Bordering the prefectures of Aomori to the north, Akita to the west, and Miyagi to the south, Iwate Prefecture is not just the second largest prefecture in Japan but also an idyllic region renowned for its secret onsen towns, magnificent World Heritage temples, and an assortment of interesting and sumptuous soba. On my maiden journey here, I visited the beautiful small town of Kitakami, renowned as one of the top three sakura spots in Japan. I also visited the historic town of Hiraizumi, and finished 62 bowls of Wanko Soba – not bad for a first try although I intend eat over 100 bowls on my next visit.”
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CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE: Idyllic Iwate, Fukushima boasts some of the best sake in the country, it’s also dotted with pretty little towns, the breathtaking Aomori Nebuta Festival is held every summer, Hirosaki Castle is mesmerizing and offers spectacular sakura viewing
TOHOKU TRAVEL SPECIAL: AOMORI
Aomori “The northernmost prefecture of mainland Honshu, Aomori is the gateway to an eclectic culture most notably represented by the Aomori Nebuta Matsuri. This breathtaking festival is held every summer and showcases gigantic colorful and expressive floats and lanterns [pictured above] depicting scenes from famous folklores, legends and romanticized historical events in Japan’s storied history. It’s also a food paradise as it shares its spoil of fresh catch with Hakodate in Hokkaido. Prices here are half of what you will pay elsewhere in Japan. And how can you visit the prefecture without sampling its renowned Aomori apples? Huge, crunchy and juicy. Also be sure to visit the castle town of Hirosaki, the undisputed Number One Sakura Viewing Destination in Japan, if not the world. This historic town is just an hour’s drive from Aomori city. Walking through the Hirosaki Castle complex and gardens is a mesmerizing experience.”
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[ PROMOTION ] TOHOKU TRAVEL SPECIAL: AKITA
Akita
We continue our tour of Tohoku as we spend time with one of the symbols of this northern prefecture – the Akita Obako
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mong the prefectures of Tohoku, Akita holds a special position. You would be hard-pressed to find an area that is home to such geographical variety, which ranges from the fertile plains where rice has been cultivated for generations to the rugged coastline on the west. It’s a land that produces plenty of renowned sake (and consumes more of it than any other prefecture), and draws tourists to the many onsen that surround the scenic Lake Tazawa to the south. It’s also a region that maintains a strong connection to its agrarian past through its wide variety of seasonal festivals, from the cultural celebrations that the cities hold in the dead of winter to fireworks competitions that set the night skies ablaze. Join us over the next few months, as we explore this unique land, and the many traditions that have sprung from it.
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We begin our cultural tour with the Akita Obako, a figure who has become a symbol of the region’s youth and of the richness of this northern prefecture.
A CHILD OF THE LAND In Akita ben, or the dialect of Japanese as it is spoken in Akita, obako means “daughter,” but the word is often used to refer to an unmarried woman. A local phrase – “Akita obako musume” – is used to refer to someone who was born and raised in Akita. The city of Daisen is where the phrase first began being used, but it is now a common turn of phrase used around the prefecture. Unlike the Akita Bijin, or “beauty of Akita,” the Akita Obako is meant to represent a simple, unstudied grace, and it’s a quality you can expect to encounter on your travels around the prefecture.
[ PROMOTION ] TOHOKU TRAVEL SPECIAL: AKITA
SHE’S GOT THE LOOK The Akita Obako frequently appears in traditional farming clothes: a dark blue coat and pants, which are marked with colorful, geometric patterns. The outfit is set off with a thick red belt and shoulder straps, which would have been a kind of simple backpack years before, and topped with a red ribbon in the hair. In a case of life imitating art, most of the time that people are dressing as the Akita Obako, they dress in the same style as the manga “original,” (sidebar) sometimes adding a pair of red cloth gloves. In photographs, she is often next to the thick-stalked, broad-leaved fuki. A type of butterbur that is also known as Japanese sweet coltsfoot, the fuki is Akita’s official plant. This wild-growing green can quickly grow to impressive heights and is known for its tangy, bitter taste.
The Yuri Kougen railway passes a flooded field of rice
THE ECHOES OF TRADITION Along with the prefecture’s many festivals, Akita is known for its rich history of folk singing, and there is a famous minyo (folk song) named in honor of the Akita Obako. The song’s lyrics tell of a 17-year-old girl who spends her time amid hills and fields, gazing on the blooming trees and flowers. It’s a well known song that has been recorded by everyone from traditional Japanese singers to the switched-on shamisen duo, the Yoshida Brothers. But perhaps nowhere is it more beloved than in the Omagari neighborhood of Daisen, where a yearly folksinging competition is held. Young and old join take part each June as each singer does their utmost to bring an award-winning interpretation to the beloved words and melody.
THE AKITA OBAKO IS MEANT TO REPRESENT A SIMPLE, UNSTUDIED GRACE, WHICH YOU CAN EXPECT TO ENCOUNTER ON YOUR TRAVELS AROUND THE PREFECTURE
LADIES OF THE RAILWAY In honor of the neighborhood’s musical heritage, every time a train pulls in to Omagari Station, the melody of “Akita Obako” plays over the loudspeakers. Thanks to a promotion held by Yuri Kougen Railways, visitors to the area can also spend a bit of time with the Akita Obako themselves. On one trip during the weekend, the train
Attendants for the Akita Obako railway service pose in front of Yashima Station
runs its full route – a total of 12 stations – between Yashima and Ugohonjo with a group of attendants passing up and down the aisles, serving regional specialties. And at the final station of Yashima, a local woman named Matsuko has been keeping the tradition of the friendly station shopkeep alive. Matsuko opened her shop “Matsuko’s Room” back in 1985, and many people make the trip from Tokyo and farther south just to pay the shop a visit. For those of us who are used to packed, multi-car train trips, riding a single car through the scenic landscapes around Daisen feels like a step back in time, a feeling that is only amplified by the presence of these traditionally dressed women, garbed in history. For more information about Yuri Kougen’s service, visit www.obako5.com
DRAWING A CHARACTER TO LIFE The concept of the Akita Obako was given a distinct visual identity thanks to the Japanese Agriculture (JA) collective, who began using a manga-inspired image of the young woman on their product packaging and buildings nearly 20 years ago. The original picture was drawn by an employee of the collective who was also an amateur manga artist; reproductions of the picture can now be found on products around the region. Given Japan’s love of the yuru kyara – a cartoon figure that is often used as part of the branding of a prefecture, city, or business – it should come as no surprise that this simply drawn version of the regional character has developed a life of her own. In fact, she might have even been a little ahead of her time, having gotten the historical jump on such super popular characters as Kumamon and Funassyi.
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[ PROMOTION ] TOHOKU TRAVEL SPECIAL: AKITA
Setting the Night Afire The city of Daisen, in Akita Prefecture, is home to some of Japan’s largest fireworks competitions. It also has a long history of pyrotechnics production, and some of the country’s most respected fireworks companies, including Komatsuenka and Hibikiya, are based there. As these firms prepare for the 16th International Fireworks Symposium in Daisen’s Omagari neighborhood from April 24 to 29, 2017, we speak with two women who have dedicated themselves to this craft that blends chemistry and aesthetics.
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[ PROMOTION ] TOHOKU TRAVEL SPECIAL: AKITA
The Firestarters THERE WAS ONE SKYROCKET THAT BROUGHT ME TO TEARS
when I saw the first skyrocket I ever made decorate the night sky with a ‘BANG!’ I knew that I had made the right decision. But at the same time, as if I were thinking about the fireworks as my own children, I wanted to improve my skill even more.” Settsu has been working at Komatsuenka for nine years, is married to a man from Akita, and has a four-year-old daughter. She is constantly pushing herself to develop new fireworks, and she is most proud of her latest creation: the lyrically named “A Tear Falling from a Cheek, Transformed into a Star.”
MISATO HASHIMOTO MAKIKO SETTSU A native of Yamaguchi Prefecture, Settsu had worked as a construction foreman and in other construction-related jobs before she was drawn to the world of fireworks thanks to a chance visit to a fireworks festival in Nagano about 10 years ago. She went on a whim, but her decision changed her life. “There was one skyrocket that I remember that brought me to tears – I had to find out who manufactured it. When I found out that it was Komatsuenka, I called them right away.” But it wasn’t an easy job application. The head of the company refused her at first. He acknowledged her enthusiasm, but told her that the hours would be too long and the pay too little. Undaunted, she returned to ask for a job some time later, only to be turned down again. It was on her third and final request that the president said, “Well, if you’re that eager…” and he offered her the job. That was when the real challenges – and rewards – began. “It was very tough, and there were some times when I thought about quitting. But the moment
ABOVE Makiko Settsu, Misato Hashimoto TOP LEFT Misato Hashimoto (bottom, 2nd from left) with her fellow workers at Hibikiya BELOW Makiko Settsu and Misato Hashimoto at work
Like Settsu, Hashimoto is something of an honorary “Akita Obako.” She is from Miyazaki Prefecture on the southern island of Kyushu, and began working at the Hibikiya Fireworks Company this year. She was also profoundly moved by a fireworks display – in her case, while on a working holiday in Australia. “Even though fireworks shows in Australia are different from those in Japan, I knew that I wanted to take a chance at a job that would let me inspire those kinds of emotions in people.” Hashimoto moved back to Japan and started studying fireworks for some time in Niigata, moving to Hibikiya during the season of deepest snow, in January. While she is just learning the art of pyrotechnics, the path she has set for herself is already clear: “I want to make fireworks that we can enter into competitions; fireworks that surprise people and bring a smile to their faces.”
WHEN TO SEE FIREWORKS IN DAISEN AUGUST 27, 2016 National Fireworks Competition
OCTOBER 8, 2016 Omagari Autumn Fireworks
MARCH 18, 2017 Omagari Winter Fireworks
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[ PROMOTION ] TOHOKU TRAVEL SPECIAL: AKITA
Musicals with Deep Roots Traditional music and dance take center stage with the Warabi-za theatrical group
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hen it comes to understanding the roots of another culture, the performing arts provides a unique window. Learning how to speak the language is invaluable, of course, but there’s something intangible, perhaps more profound, that can be perceived by clapping along with a centuries-old work song or seeing dancers perform steps whose origins date back more than a thousand years. This kind of connection is what the Warabi-za performance troupe has been providing its audiences since it was founded in 1951. Based in the Akita Prefecture city of Semboku, the group is best known for adapting Japanese folk traditions – particularly the stories, songs, and dances of the people of Tohoku – to music and dance performances. Linked to the labor that people have been doing in Japan for centuries, these songs and dances come in a wide variety. Some are traditional work songs, meant to provide a rhythm that would accompany the work of harvesting rice or cutting lumber. Others have their origins in the time when that tough work was complete and it was time to celebrate with songs, ceremonies, and dances that were meant, in part, to ask the gods for good growing conditions and a healthy crop, but which also strengthened deep ties within the community and helped people prepare for the next season’s challenges and rewards. Since its founding almost 65 years ago, Warabi-za has expanded to seven different groups that collectively perform more than 1,000 shows throughout the country and also regularly perform overseas – in 16 different countries to date. Both inside Japan and abroad, the group introduces this musical heritage to those who are entirely new to it, and shares these traditions with modern Japanese audiences who may have lost touch with the time-honored ways. Although Warabi-za has a heavy touring schedule that sends its troupes around Japan, perhaps the best place to see them perform is at their home base in Semboku. Set in a section of Akita Prefecture that is known for its natural beauty, abundant hot springs, and the black-walled Kakunodate residences that used to house the samurai families of old, Warabi-za’s home theater is a part of the Akita Art Village, an aesthetic getaway that combines the comforts of a resort and the culturally inspiring surroundings of an arts colony. Established more than 20 years ago, it’s a location where you can witness impressive performances, be soothed by pristine scenery – even take your own turn on stage.
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WHAT TO DO AT AKITA ART VILLAGE
THESE SONGS AND DANCES ARE LINKED TO THE LABOR THAT HAS BEEN DONE IN JAPAN FOR CENTURIES
TOP: One of the Warabi-za troupes performs the musical, “Haru Ran Ran” BOTTOM: Staging the Akita Kanto Festival and the Kakunodate Oyamabayashi
Beginning this summer, the Warabi-za troupe will be bringing the traditional dances and songs of the six prefectures of the Tohoku region (Akita, Aomori, Iwate, Fukushima, Miyagi, and Yamagata) to polished life with their “Tohoku Festival Night Stage.” It’s an opportunity for young, old, foreign, and Japanese to gain a deeper appreciation of this musical heritage. However, a visit to Akita Art Village gives guests a chance to do more than just see Warabi-za’s shows – they can also try their hand at performing during their stay. Professionally led workshops are available in traditional Japanese dance, taiko drumming, or stage fighting. Whenever it’s time to take a break from artistic endeavors, there’s a dip in an onsen waiting as well as an array of the local Tazawako Brewery’s celebrated beers to be sampled. www.warabi.jp/english/
TOP 5 SUMMER FESTIVALS IN TOHOKU THINKING OF VISITING THE REGION NEXT MONTH? BESIDES THE IMPRESSIVE AOMORI NEBUTA FESTIVAL, THERE ARE PLENTY OF LIVELY MATSURI TAKING PLACE IN AUGUST
YAMAGATA HANAGASA This one also boasts a performance by around 10,000 dancers, but for this one they’re holding hanagasa (“flower hats”). The three-day event is held from August 5 to 7, and attracts over one million people with its beautiful costumes, impressive floats, and unique choreography. www.hanagasa.jp
MORIOKA SANSA ODORI Taiko fans will relish the chance to see over 10,000 drummers and dancers parading the city of Morioka in Iwate Prefecture between August 1 and 4. Listed in the Guinness Book of Records as “the world’s largest drum parade,” this festival is probably one of the most colorful and musically impressive ones you’ll see in Japan. www.sansaodori.jp
FUKUSHIMA WARAJI Amusingly, this festival features a giant waraji (straw sandal) that’s 12 m long, weighs two tons, and is carried by 100 people through Fukushima city. The point? To pray to be a “good walker” and increase patriotism. The event has been going since the Edo era, and is held from August 2 to 3. tinyurl.com/TWwaraji
SENDAI TANABATA While Tanabata festivals are usually held in Japan in July, the Sendai version takes place from August 6 to 8. Also known as the Star Festival, this traditional event is a celebration of the legend that tells of two stars, Vega and Altair, who were separated lovers only allowed to meet once a year in the Milky Way. It’s one for the romantics, for sure, but it also impresses with unbelievably big and colorful decorations that take over the streets. www.sendaitanabata.com/en
AKITA KANTO Held from August 3 to 6 every year, the Kanto Festival is intended to frighten away “demons” before the autumn harvest. Designated as an Important Intangible Folk Cultural Property in 1980, it’s one of the four biggest summer matsuri in Tohoku, and features hundreds of competitive performers balancing massive lantern polls as they’re cheered on by the crowds. www.kantou.gr.jp/english
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Every year, Japan gasses 80 percent of the cats and dogs in its shelters, which receive around 200 animals a day. There are only two vets in Japan who advocate spaying and neutering. The list goes on… Words by Natalie Jacobsen
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lizabeth Oliver and ARK (Animal Rescue Kansai) representatives climbed the steps to a dog breeder’s property in Shiga. They were responding to claims about animal abuse, intending to capture evidence for the court. At least 30 Dachshunds, all in various states of starvation – or decay – lay in the owner’s back garden. When the owner spotted Oliver, they called the police. Oliver was arrested, and the breeder was not even so much as reprimanded. It took another five years for ARK to bring this particular breeder to justice. Their business was suspended and they were ordered to pay ¥100,000. “You can’t force people to surrender an animal in Japan, no matter how much abuse is documented,” says Oliver. “And if you call the police, they will not even bother responding.” This is why animal advocacy groups are so essential in Japan. Oliver founded ARK 25 years ago after being inspired by the late Rotraut Bomford, founder of JAWS (Japan Animal Welfare Society). After Bomford assisted Oliver in adopting a Great Dane that had been used for lab experiments, Oliver developed an interest in protecting animals. Today, Oliver’s NPO actively pursues cases, fighting in and out of court to gain awareness and help educate the public on animal welfare – all while finding homes for strays.
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PET TRENDS IN JAPAN
Julie Okamoto of Tokyo ARK
IN JAPAN, EACH CYCLE OF DOG OWNERSHIP RARELY SURVIVES BEYOND TWO YEARS
“The ‘My Home’ movement, which happened in Japan in the 60s or 70s, started the idea that to have a complete home you needed a garden and a dog,” Oliver explains. At first, most pet owners opted to choose very “national” dogs, from the native Akita breed to the famed Shiba Inu. Cats were, in contrast, not popular until several decades later. “Trendy” pet ownership came about after the release of the 1983 Japanese film “Antarctica,” which starred a cast of 17 huskies. The avalanche of families clamoring to own a husky was unprecedented. “But they learned, after a year or two, just how big they get, and [many of the huskies] were returned or discarded,” according to Oliver. Lately, interest in smaller dogs has been increasing – so much so that breeders opt to keep runts of each litter, and breed them to maintain the miniature body structures. Dachshunds are longer. Poodles are smaller. Chihuahuas are daintier. “The physical sizes, and drive to keep breeding smaller dogs cosmetically causes issues in the future,” says Helen Marvell of Animal Advocacy and Animal Walk Tokyo. Julie Okamoto of Tokyo ARK explains the repercussions: “The smaller the dog, the narrower the hips. Many female dogs [bought from pet shops or breeders] will be too small to give birth
regularly. Most surgeries performed at clinics recently are C-sections.” Many breeders do the surgery themselves, forcing female dogs to give birth four or five times before disposal. Then, behind the breeders you have the yakuza, Oliver claims. “They have the money and means to bring in an exotic array of animals and meet demands. In smaller prefectures the yakuza have infiltrated all factions of the community, the pet shops, breeders, police, and local government.” In Japan, each cycle of dog ownership rarely survives beyond two years, “[going] out of fashion, just like clothing,” says Oliver. Dachshunds, Chihuahuas, Shih-tzus, and terriers have all had their 15 minutes of fame. “In the late 90s there was a brief spike in interest in Dalmatians – credit Disney.” The most recently sought-after pooch? “The Apricot Toy Poodle,” asserts Marvell. “The increase in pet cafés – for owls, cats, dogs and rabbits – encourages interest in other, sometimes more exotic, animals,” says Marvell. “The most recent is the hedgehog café – so now more pet shop owners are bringing in hedgehogs.” Likely trauma for small animals is “induced by being caged in unnatural habitats and frequently handled by customers ... I’m certain in about two or three years, we will see many wandering in the parks or winding up at animal shelters.”
JAPAN VS THE WORLD AVERAGE PERCENTAGE OF CATS AND DOGS CULLED AT SHELTERS, 2011-2014
THE FUTURE JPN: CATS 88% | DOGS 82%
THE PROBLEM WITH ANIMAL SHELTERS Tokyo Zero, one of the groups behind 2014’s “No Kill” campaign, estimates that almost 311,000 dogs and cats were culled via the gassing method at shelters across Japan in 2014. According to the Ministry of Environment, the number is closer to 100,000. Although the numbers vary depending on the source, most sources indicate that between 82 to 88 percent of all animals at shelters in Japan will be put down, with roughly 11 percent being adopted. The remaining fraction is passed on to pet shops, kept for image, or sold to labs. The reason for these high culling rates is overcrowding. Shelters receive around 200 animals a day, and manage to rehome an average of just two. Once an animal has been placed in a shelter, it has, depending on the prefecture, about three to seven days left to be adopted before the shelter must decide its fate.
CHN: CATS 30% | DOGS 40%
THE GAP IN REGULATIONS “There were no regulations about owning a pet until 1973, when they enacted the Control Animal Act [now called the Act on Welfare and Management of Animals] in time for the Queen [of England]’s visit,” states Oliver. Originally the purpose was to show the Corgi-loving royal that Japan “had dogs in mind, too.” But in 1998 the government passed a stipulation requiring re-visitation of the law every five years to update animal and pet owner regulations. In 2013, there was an amendment to the law that stated a person may be imprisoned for destroying an animal without proper reason. This amendment was promoted publicly using the slogan, “A dog is for life,” and shortly afterwards Tokyo Zero’s “No Kill” campaign picked up steam. But while “dogs are for life” is a great message in theory, Okamoto raises some concerns about the law: “Elderly people moving into nursing homes end up leaving their animals on the streets
because they can’t take them with, but they also can’t legally return the pet.” Oliver adds: “Even if a dog is riddled with cancer and in pain, a vet following this regulation, or a shelter that is ‘no kill,’ will not put it to sleep. It’s just another form of animal abuse.” Of all Japan’s prefectures, Kumamoto is the only one to significantly change the way its shelters deal with animals. There, gas is prohibited from being used. “In other places, like Nara and Tokushima, residents said they didn’t feel comfortable with gassing “on premises” of shelters. So the shelters merely found a loophole, says animal advocate Masatoshi Ito. He tells of the “dream truck,” where animals are loaded at the end of the week and driven to the crematorium. On the way, the driver pushes a “release” button, sending gas into the back of the truck. Regardless of whether the animals are still alive or not, they are dumped into the incinerator. “Nobody can pinpoint the location where the gassing happens, so nobody can bring a case against them to stop it.”
USA: CATS 41% | DOGS 31%
This year, ARK is celebrating reaching nintei status as an NPO, which means they are now fully recognized by the government and will begin receiving benefits. In Sasayama, Oliver and ARK representatives recently opened a new kind of shelter intended to re-establish the image of “going to the pound” in Japan. All materials to build the shelter were brought in from England with the help of the UK’s Dogs Trust group. “The cages are large with glass fronts, are well lit, and have play areas,” says Oliver, explaining that presentation is important to Japanese people, so she and her team aim to redesign and set a trend in shelters across the country. Machiko Nakano, a volunteer and representative of Tokyo ARK, believes we need to reduce the numbers of the abandoned by raising the age at which puppies and kittens can be sold, and by finding more veterinarians who are not afraid to spay or neuter pets. There are currently only two vets in Japan who openly advocate spaying and neutering. One of them is Kuwosawa Yasushi, based in Yokohama, and he provides monetary incentives to pet owners who choose to proceed with the operation, which typically costs three times as much as it does in Western nations. Some animal advocacy groups, such as Animal Walk Tokyo, host regular adoption fairs, shelter tours, campaigns, and sanpo (walk) events to spread awareness. “In Kobe, we have started a kids’ program among the Girl Scouts, showing them how to care for pets,” says Nakano. “As things are now, Japan still has another 100 years before animal rights are truly adopted,” she says. “We need teach people how to protect them. We need to stop saying ‘oh, poor thing’.” Note: Some names have been changed to protect identities due to ongoing investigations and privacy concerns.
UK: CATS 6% | DOGS 21% Data from PETA, RSPCA/ASPCA, Dogs Trust, HSI, and government-provided stats
USEFUL CONTACTS Tokyo ARK www.arkbark.net | Animal Advocacy Japan www.facebook.com/animaladvocacyjapan ALIVE www.alive-net.net | Animal Walk Tokyo www.animalwalktokyo.org
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THE OUTSIDERS YOU ’VE GOT ONE MORE MONTH BEFORE I T GETS WAY TOO HOT TO GO OUTSIDE. MAKE THE MOST OF JULY WITH OUR ROUNDUP OF SOME OF THE BEST PLACES TO GO HIKING, CYCLING, SKATEBOARDING, STAND UP PADDLEBOARDING, AND CANYONING – ALL RECOMMENDED BY LOCALS IN THE KNOW Compiled by Annemarie Luck and Alec Jordan
Photo: Daisuke Urano
Canyoning As Kieren McNamara, owner of Tenjin Lodge (www.tenjinlodge.com) in Minakami, Gunma Prefecture, explained, the hybrid sport is “a refreshing adventure” that combines mountaineering skills with the built-in feeling of jumping in an ice-cool mountain stream. These are a few of his favorite places:
CLOSE TO H OM E “There are two separate canyons within five minutes’ walk of Tenjin Lodge including one which passes right underneath the lodge and I jump in as often as possible during summer.”
CRAZY LIK E A F OX “In my opinion, though, the most exciting canyon in Minakami is Fox Canyon. It involves an 18m waterfall, lots of natural beauty and plenty of thrills.”
Stand Up Paddleboarding A little easier to get started with than traditional surfing, stand up paddleboarding (SUP) lets riders catch waves while remaining vertical. Splash Guest House’s (www.splashguesthouse.com) Dane Gillett was radical enough to let us in on his favorite Chiba spots.
H EBARA B EAC H , KATSU U RA “Hebara Beach is a golden sanded beach with clear blue water. About 15 kilometers up and down the coast there are more than 15 different bays, and plenty of them are perfect for SUP.”
U BARA A N D M O RI YA B E AC H E S “Ubara and Moriya beaches are ranked among the top 50 nicest beaches in Japan. Both of them are horse-shoe shaped bays with clean white sand and beautiful green water. Both of these beaches can break in the waist to shoulder high range when conditions are right.” 3 4 | J U N E 2 0 1 6 | TOKYO W E E K E NDE R
Cycling Tikini Pickens of Cartel Bikes gives us his top three cycling routes around Tokyo:
RI D E TO ODA I BA “There are only a few routes one can take to get to this man-made island, but mine usually entails passing Shiba-koen, Hamamatsucho and Shibaura, and then walking along Rainbow Bridge with my bike in tow. On my way back I usually pass by Harumi Terminal. It’s always a pleasure cycling next to water.”
RI D E TO RYOGOKU “I usually cycle through Aoyama Cemetery via Nogizaka Tunnel, which takes me into Akasaka. From there it’s Toranomon, a quick drop into Shinbashi, Hibiya/Ginza, and then Marunouchi. Then I head toward Nihonbashi, Kiyosumi Shirakawa and Morishita before arriving in Ryogoku. There is so much to discover on the east side of Tokyo, and on weekend evenings the roads are less busy.”
RI D E TO T H E TA M A R I V E R “A straightforward ride from Ebisu following the 416 road will take you through the neighborhoods of Nakameguro and Gakugei-daigaku, which boast lots of wonderful treats like the izakaya Ban. A bit further along the 416, you’ll pass by pretty Komazawa Park. The Futako Tamagawa area is also a treat to navigate.”
Hiking The “Hiking in Japan” group on Facebook (tinyurl.com/japanhiking) is a great place to get detailed advice about trails around the country. Two of their members (we’ll keep their names private) told us about their favorite lesser-known trails.
RYOGA MI SA N I N SA I TA M A “From Tokyo you’d have to take the train to Chichibu Station and then a bus to the trailhead, so it’s a long go. But the hike to the summit is about three hours or so and it’s a beautiful ascent up through green forest, passing a ravine with red chert. There’s a small lodge where you can rest and above that a shrine. The summit is a rocky ridge jutting through the trees.”
M U RAYA MA I N SA I TA MA “A really nice hike that I’ve done twice is by Ashigakubo station on the Seibu-Ikebukuro line. Very convenient from Ikebukuro but not very crowded.” After you’ve finished the hike, look around for an extremely long slide that’s been set up in the town of Yokoze, just for fun: tinyurl.com/murayamahike
Skateboarding With skateboarding possibly being included in the Tokyo 2020 Olympics, and Japanese female skateboarder Kisa Nakamura winning a gold medal at the X Games Austin in June, the sport is a hot topic at the moment. We asked Nakamura to recommend her top skating spot in Tokyo and she said, without hesitation, Murasaki Park (tinyurl.com/TWmurasaki). Said to be the biggest indoor park in Kanto, this is a stomping ground for many up-and-coming skaters. Handrails, flat banks, ledges … It’s got plenty to keep you stoked and, if you’re feeling brave enough, a 14 ft vert ramp outside. For three more top spots, we asked Kev Mullin, a local skateboarder and founder of clothing label Strangers, to tell us where he gets his fix:
M IYASH ITA N IK E PARK “This downtown Shibuya skate park was designed by Bones Brigade legend Lance Mountain, and is a regular stop in for traveling pros. It has a unique bowl and purposely built real ‘street’ obstacles.” tinyurl.com/TWmiyashita-park
KOM AZAWA SK AT E PARK “Revamped in April 2016, this park is host to three mini ramps from beginner size up to ripper status. An adjacent street course and the surrounding greenery makes it a great locals’ hookup spot.” tinyurl.com/TWkomazawa-park
TOBU K I SPORTS PARK (AK A PLAN E T PARK ) “Although an hour bus ride from the Hachioji Station, this is a huge park consisting of a giant snake run on one side and a massive street course on the other. Ask any skater: it’s well worth the trip.” www.tobuki-sp.jp/english.html
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Words by Matthew Hernon Translation by Don Brown
How did Naoki Matayoshi go from writing comedy sketches to a bestselling novel that’s been turned into a TV series by Netflix? We sat down with him to chat about his inspirations, and the success of “Hibana”
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n articulate, deepthinking individual who is known to read up to 10 books a week, Naoki Matayoshi doesn’t come across as your typical stand-up comic. The boke (air-headed) member of the manzai (a style of stand-up comedy) duo Peace, he’s been a notable and admired figure in the Japanese entertainment industry for years, and in 2015 became the first active comedian to win the illustrious Akutagawa Prize for rising authors following the release of his debut feature-length novel, “Hibana” (“Spark”).
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The story centers around a young entertainer named Tokunaga who’s struggling to get his big break in the manzai industry alongside comic partner Yamashita. He then has an encounter with the enigmatic comedian Kamiya who takes Tokunaga under his wing, teaching the apprentice his own philosophy of comedy. The pair embark on a journey together, before eventually following different paths. The compelling tale has proved a huge commercial hit. Last year it was Japan’s best-selling book and has just been launched in Taiwan. Since the beginning of June, a TV series based on the novel has been broadcast by Netflix
in 190 countries and is currently available in 19 different languages. While official viewing figures are not yet available, early indications suggest they’ve been strong. With the “Hibana” success story showing no sign of abating, we decided to sit down with Matayoshi to hear more about it.
WHICH AUTHORS WERE YOU INTERESTED IN GROWING UP, AND WHAT INSPIRATION DID YOU DRAW FROM THEM? I was properly introduced to modern Japanese literature at junior high school and became engrossed by the works of writers like Ryunosuke Akutagawa, Natsume Soseki and Dazai Osamu. I’m not going to sit here and pretend I’m capable of writing like them or would ever attempt to, but having read so much of their material, I can’t deny there’s been some influence.
WHAT KIND OF INFLUENCE? I’ve always been taken in by the characters in their novels who had their own deep internal struggles and worries. I felt I had some kind of affinity with them – like they were speaking to me. I think perhaps the reason why many people wanted me to write a book was because I have that type of personality.
WHEN YOU WERE APPROACHED TO WRITE A NOVEL, WHAT WAS YOUR REACTION? Why me? I’ve received a number of requests over the years, but I kept coming back to that same question. There are so many talented writers out there; what could I realistically offer that was different? I wrestled with the idea for a while and then found something I felt only I could write. I got an offer [from Bungeishunju] and decided to go for it. Once I’d made up my mind, it was quite liberating, yet at the same time scary.
AFTER YOU DECIDED ON THE THEME, HOW DIFFICULT WAS IT TO TURN THAT INTO A FULL-LENGTH NOVEL? I write comedy sketches on a daily basis, and have composed numerous essays and short stories, but this was on another level. Using specific words to express the intricacies of human thought and introspection proved challenging. It took much more time than anything else I’d previously attempted.
WHAT ARE YOUR THOUGHTS ON THE SUCCESS OF “HIBANA”? Of course I’ve been delighted with the reaction. It’s a story about young comedians who aren’t exactly flourishing, but they don’t give up in pursuit of their dream. I think there are many authors who are in a similar position of having the talent, but not getting the recognition. My real hope is that people who’ve read this book will use it as a window to explore more up-and-coming writers. Another thing I’m excited about is the fact that “Hibana” will be read by people overseas. It’s now in Taiwan and hopefully more countries will follow. It’d be great to help raise awareness of the Japanese comedy scene abroad and if some performers here could make it big internationally as a result of that, even better.
THE AKUTAGAWA PRIZE CERTAINLY HELPED WITH SALES. WHAT WERE YOU DOING WHEN YOU FOUND OUT YOU’D WON? I was waiting in a hotel lobby with my manager and editor. I didn’t think I had a chance of winning but, as I’m on TV a lot, I knew that regardless of the result the press would want to interview me. I was conscious about not appearing sulky or downhearted and started racking my brain trying to come up with something funny to say to mask the disappointment. Then I heard the good news. It was unbelievable.
WHAT ABOUT WHEN YOU WERE FIRST TOLD ABOUT THE TV DRAMA: WERE YOU CONCERNED IT WOULDN’T DO THE BOOK JUSTICE?
I’VE ALWAYS BEEN TAKEN BY CHARACTERS WHO HAVE DEEP INTERNAL STRUGGLES
HOW LONG? Around three months.
IT’S BEEN DESCRIBED AS SEMI-AUTOBIOGRAPHICAL. HOW SIMILAR ARE YOU AND TOKUNAGA? There are elements of myself in both Tokunaga and his senpai (mentor), Kamiya, who shares a lot of the same views of comedy with me. With the former, I deliberately decided to make his age and level of experience in the manzai world the same as mine, but it wasn’t just a case of writing about my own life through Tokunaga. His character is actually based on a combination of people I’ve met through the years and their experiences during that period [2000-2010]. Also, more than the manzai theme itself, what really interested me was the interaction between the principle characters, particularly the whole senpai/kohai paradigm and the way their relationship developed and then fell apart over time. The manzai universe was a unique and easily understandable place to explore these issues.
WHAT DID YOUR OWN COMIC PARTNER, YUJI AYABE, MAKE OF THE BOOK? I think this was the first novel he’d ever read, certainly of that length anyway. With about 20 pages to go, he asked me when he’d be appearing in it. I don’t think he’s quite grasped the difference between fiction and non-fiction yet [laughs].
Not really. Like everyone, I’ve read books and then been disappointed by the movie or TV adaption, but I think it’s important to remember they’re two different things. I’d be too afraid to make someone else’s story myself, but I felt at ease after speaking to the directors. They had a great understanding and sense of what the novel was about so I had confidence in them.
WERE YOU GIVEN MUCH CREATIVE INPUT INTO THE MAKING OF IT?
I wasn’t involved in the initial screenplay writing process, but as I mentioned I had faith in the directors so I didn’t need to be. They told me over dinner how much they liked the book and how important it was to preserve the world that it depicted. I told them about my poor upbringing and they ended up incorporating that into the story – something I didn’t do myself. The only thing I told them was if you’re going to do something drastic like kill someone off, let me know. Apart from that, do as you please.
WHAT ARE YOUR GENERAL IMPRESSIONS OF THE SHOW? I think it was brilliantly done. When manzai is portrayed on TV and in film, people will often say that something wasn’t quite right. I didn’t hear that at all this time. It was realistically made with some powerful performances. You could see the passion the directors and producers had for the project. They took small things I suggested in the book, but didn’t expand upon and painstakingly turned them into fullblown scenes. They were so protective of my work, I actually felt quite embarrassed. Don’t get me wrong, it’s fantastic as it is, I just wonder if they could’ve made something even better had they departed a little bit from my story.
WHAT DOES THE FUTURE HAVE IN STORE FOR YOU? I plan to write another book, which I hope to have finished by the end of this year. I’d also like to write, direct and perform a twohour comedy theater performance like the shin-kigeki (new comedy) I used to watch when I was young and living in Osaka. It’s something I’ve wanted to do for a while. I just feel I need to do it sooner rather than later.
Words by Matthew Hernon Translation by Honami Iizuka
DAUGHTER OF A SUMO WRESTLER AND POSSIBLY JAPAN’S NEXT GREATEST FEMALE JUDO PRACTITIONER, AMI KONDO CARRIES THE WEIGHT OF EXPECTATIONS WITH GRACE AND PRIDE
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t was described by the Japanese media as a national disgrace. The country that had invented and for decades dominated the sport of judo was coming home from the 2012 London Olympics with just one gold medal: three fewer than in 2008 and seven fewer than in 2004. For the All Japan Judo Federation (AFFJ) – who’ve had to deal with far bigger problems since, including abuse and sexual harassment claims – the all-round performance in London was very disappointing. But as they prepare for Rio, there is good reason to feel positive. Japan amassed 13 golds in the last two world championships – eight more than closest rivals France – and the squad assembled for this summer’s Games looks very good on paper with 14 representatives who all have the potential to challenge for medals. The youngest member of the team is the exciting 21-year-old Ami Kondo. A world champion during her teens, she’ll be competing in the -48 kg category, the same weight division in which legendary figure Ryoko Tani won five medals. So with Rio just over a month away, is Kondo feeling any extra pressure as she prepares to follow in the footsteps of the lady
widely regarded as greatest female judoka ever? Weekender recently met up with her at the Ajinomoto National Training Center in Tokyo to find out. “I don’t think it matters what weight class you’re in; there will always be high expectations placed on the shoulders of Japanese judoka because of our history,” she tells us. “Personally I think it’s a good thing. It gives you that motivation to get to the next level and to win a gold at the Olympics – which is of course my aim – that is what you need.” Soft-spoken and humble in demeanor, yet a warrior at heart, Kondo has been involved in various sports since she was old enough to walk. During her childhood she would do light physical training with her 100 kg sumo wrestler father on a daily basis. She also participated in a number of artistic gymnastic competitions, but then at the age of five switched her focus to judo. “It was the sport my brother was doing at the time and he won this gold medal that I really wanted,” she says. “He basically told me, ‘If you want it that badly, go and win your own,’ so that’s why I took up judo. However, I soon realized that getting the top prize isn’t so easy. I’d often finish runner-up and at one event I was so disappointed I locked myself in the bathroom rather than go
Highs and Lows
F to the award ceremony. I was eventually coaxed out just in time by my parents and coach.” Kondo may not have won every tournament she entered, but it was clear from a young age how talented she is. The Nagoya native began to realize her true potential after joining the renowned Oishi Dojo in her second year at elementary school. It was the same studio that two-time Olympic champion Ayumi Tanimoto attended. “Watching Tanimoto win [her second] gold medal in 2008 with a ripping uchi-mata attack was one of my first Olympic memories,” Kondo says. “There are lots of panels at the dojo showing that scene. It was a special moment from a true great who’s had big influence on my career.” Kondo is now aiming to create her own special scene in Rio so she can join Tanimoto on the wall. Her form over the past few years suggests she has a good chance. Since 2013 she has won a world title, a world junior title, three grand slams and earlier this year a World Masters. Despite achieving much of her success abroad, some have bizarrely suggested that she doesn’t travel well. The recent victory at the Masters in Mexico – where she defeated current Olympic champion Sarah Menezes in the final – was the perfect way to answer the critics. The performance even earned her praise from her notoriously hard-to-please coach Masae Ueno.
“That was a pleasant surprise,” Kondo says, smiling. “Ueno-san never usually compliments me so to get a ‘well done’ from her was a boost. She’s a real hard taskmaster. Even when I think I’ve given everything, she pushes me to go that extra mile. The toughlove approach has helped me a lot.” Ueno knows what it takes to win at the Olympics. Competing in the -70 kg division, she claimed two golds at the 2004 and 2008 Games. The 37-yearold brought the medals in to training to show Kondo and now the young pupil is aiming to win one for herself. It certainly won’t be easy. The -48 kg category could be one of the most closely contested competitions in Rio. Names to look out for include home favorite Sarah Menezes, current world title holder Paula Pareto, Korea’s Jeong Bo Kyeong, and Mönkhbatyn Urantsetseg from Mongolia. All of them, though, will be wary of the threat that Kondo poses. “This will be my first Olympics so of course there’s going to be nerves, particularly in the preliminary rounds,” she says. “I just hope I can do myself justice. Getting this far required hard work and sacrifice. One of the toughest things for me has been going without white rice, which I absolutely love. It’s obviously really important to stay under 48 kg so I have to weigh everything I eat. It can be a bit tiresome, but it’ll certainly be worth it if I do manage to get that gold medal around my neck.”
ONE OF THE TOUGHEST THINGS FOR ME HAS BEEN GOING WITHOUT WHITE RICE, WHICH I ABSOLUTELY LOVE
ounded in the late 19th century by Japanese polymath Kano Jigoro, judo was originally created as a physical, moral and mental pedagogy. It evolved into a combat sport and debuted at the 1964 Games in Tokyo. Women judoka did not officially start competing until 1992. Unsurprisingly, Japan has led the way in the medal table with 70 in total (34 golds). One of the most sensational victories came in 1984 when Yasuhiro Yamashita, on his way to a 203-bout winning streak, took home the gold. He missed out four years earlier because Japan boycotted the Moscow Games, and his hopes in LA seemed to have been dashed when he tore his calf muscle. Still, he reached the final – and won – despite Laurent Del Colombo attacking his injury in the semis. Japan’s most successful Olympic judoka is Tadahiro Nomura who won three golds in a row between 1996 and 2004. In the women’s event, Ryoko Tani is the most decorated Olympian. She made the podium five times in succession, winning two golds. The 2012 Games proved to be Japan’s worst in the sport with only Kaori Matsumoto (57 kg) emerging victorious. She’ll be in Rio to defend her title alongside Ami Kondo and 12 other judoka.
Know the Throws
There are any many types of 技 (waza, techniques) in judo, including 67 投げ技 (nage-waza, throwing techniques). At the 2012 Olympics 内 股 (uchi-mata, an inner-thigh throw) was the top scoring technique for women, while for the men it was the 双手背 負投 (morote-seoi-nage, two-handed shoulder throw). Ami Kondo’s favorite is the 払腰 (harai-goshi, sweeping hip throw). If an 一本 (ippon, one point) is scored, the match is over. Two 技あり (waza-ari, half points) can also decide the contest.
「day dream」butterfly, acrylic, epoxy resin, 7cm×10cm, 7cm×16cm, 2016
The National Art Center, Tokyo
National Graduate Institute for Policy Studies To Shibuya
Gonpachi
Roppongi Dori
Kai Goto / DAYDREAM
Nogisaka Station
Saturday 9th July - Sunday 24th July Gaien East St.
Gaien West St.
Hokkaien
Aoyama Cemetary
Roppongi Station
Nishi-Azabu Intersection
Roppongi Hills Mori Art Museum
Hiroo Station
Hammered Damascus Steel—Set of 2 or 3 Carbon Steel— Set of 2 This pair of expertly crafted carbon steel blades provides you with the perfect kitchen combination: an all-purpose knife for meat and fish, and a small vegetable knife. (¥23,300)
Damascus steel knives have a unique appearance that is immediately recognizable. Available in a set of two or three, these knives come with a hard case for easy storage or transportation. (set of 2: ¥17,400, set of 3: ¥27,800)
Carbon Steel wa-santoku With edges sharp and delicate enough to shave wafer-thin slices from a piece of meat or fish, Kamata Hakensha’s carbon steel knives are a perfect example of Japanese style and craftsmanship. (¥8,800)
Damascus Steel with Flower Pattern The stainless, cobalt-alloy Damascus steel blade is easy to maintain and keep sharp, while the floral motif etched onto the side and the wooden, Japanese-style handle transform this practical meat and fish knife into a work of art. (¥26,800–35,800)
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Opening Hours: 12:00 - 19:00 | Closed: Mondays Opening Reception: Friday July 8th from 18:00 onwards
NANATASU GALLERY
〒 106-0031 Tokyo, Minato-ku, Nishi-Azabu 2-12-4 Ogura building 3F
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BE I N S P I R E D From a world graffiti art exhibition featuring Banksy to three recommended series that you should be streaming on Netflix Japan, our July Guide is packed with plenty of art, TV, and summer festivities.
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© MADSAKI with courtesy of CLEAR EDITION & GALLERY
WAN N ABIE ’ S COLLE CTION BY M AD SAK I
ART & TV
A mercurial artist who has worked in everything from sculpture to fashion collaborations and a book that endeavors to teach Japanese readers how to properly use the most common English curse words, MADSAKI is also known for taking a savagely irreverent approach to much of what the art world holds sacred. Recreating many of the classic works with spray-painted lines and childlike faces, his “Wannabie’s Collection” is a tongue-in-cheek romp through Western art history. As Taku Sato, head of Clear Edition & Gallery explains, “Through his works MADSAKI challenges and stirs the stereotype values of various systems we encounter in daily life.“ Clear Edition & Gallery Until July 16, www.clearedition.jp
THE ART WORLD
OU R PIC K O F T H E C I T Y’S B ES T EXHI B I T I ONS Compiled by Alec Jordan
2 0 1 6 WORLD G RAF F IT I A RTS E XH IBIT ION IN DAIBA FE ATURIN G BAN KSY Graffiti artists use public spaces as their canvas, and in doing so reach a larger audience than they’d be able to assemble in almost any gallery. Creators who employ the form to make larger social arguments use shocking imagery to grab our attention, and the most provocative of them manage to make us laugh – nervously. This collection takes the pieces off the building walls and behind glass, allowing you to see works by the enigmatic Banksy, his alter ego Mr. Brainwash, Shepard Fairey, D*FACE, and others. Gallery 21 Until July 18, www.gallery21-daiba.com
BANKSY / BOMB HUGGER
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BANKSY / MONKEY QUEEN
TV
Untitled, from the series of “The river embraced me”, 2016 ©Rinko Kawauchi
Wondering what to watch on Netflix Japan? Here are three top local shows © 2016YD Creation
H IBAN A
THE RA I N O F BL ESS I NG: R I NKO K AWAU C H I Rinko Kawauchi has captivated photography fans around the world with a body of work that captures daily life in luminous detail. She shoots almost exclusively with medium format cameras, and her outsize prints invite viewers to immerse themselves in her scenes. A long-time recreational swimmer, Kawauchi describes her photographic process as “not dissimilar to grasping an object blindly under water, bringing it on land into the sunshine, and seeing for the first time, as it reflects the light, what it really looks like.” Gallery 916 Until September 25, gallery916.com
Makoto Wada, “Jimmy Rushing” from Portrait in Jazz 2 (SHINCHOSHA Publishing Co., Ltd.), 1999, Private Collection
HARU KI M U RA KA MI A ND I L LU S TRATOR S – MAK I SASAK I, AY U M I O H AS H I , M A KOTO WA DA A N D MI ZU MARU AN ZAI This exhibit gives fans of Japan’s best known living writer a chance to view his work from another perspective. Includes 178 pieces that depict Murakami’s collaborations with four illustrators – from illustrations for the covers of his first three novels to pictures that accompany his more recent essays and articles. Chihiro Art Museum Tokyo Until August 7, www.chihiro.jp/ tokyo/museum
(S PARK)
Based on the eponymous novel by Naoki Matayoshi (read our interview on page 36), this is Netflix’s first original Japanese drama to stream in 190 countries. It launched last month with 19 subtitles including English, and follows the lives of two struggling comedians who meet and fall into a mentor-apprentice relationship, sharing their thoughts on the meaning of life and love. © 2016 Yaro Abe, Shogakukan/Drama Shinyashokudo Production Committee
S H IN YA S H OKU D O
(MIDNIGHT D I N E R )
Set to begin streaming on October 21, this new original series is based on the manga by Yaro Abe, which has sold more than five million cumulative copies in Japan, and was made into a movie in 2015. It’s set in a small back-alley eatery where customers’ life stories unfold as they sit down to savor pork miso soup and sake. © Fuji Television/East Entertainment
T E RRACE H OU S E B OYS & GIRLS IN T H E CIT Y Currently streaming on Netflix, this reality show sees a group of six young men and women living together. It may not sound like an original plot as far as reality TV goes, but if you’re at all interested in comparing Japanese culture with that of the rest of the world, this is a fascinating place to start.
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AGENDA: THE WEEKENDER ROUNDUP OF WHAT’S HAPPENING IN JULY 1 JUL 16-17
2 JUL 23-24
BRAZILIAN DAY JAPAN Celebrate all things tropical at one of the Tokyo Brazilian immigrant community’s most important cultural gatherings of the year. Where: Yoyogi Park, Shibuya How much: Free More info: tokyoweekender.com
Over the span of two days, more than 4,000 creative souls will be exhibiting and selling a dazzling array of handmade goods. Where: Tokyo Big Sight How much: Starts at ¥1,200 More info: hmj-fes.jp
6 JUL 6-11
5 JUL 9-10 AFRICA HIBIYA FESTIVAL Explore the entire African continent and its many cultures at a single park in downtown Tokyo. Booths, dances, workshops, and more await. Where: Hibiya Park How much: Free More info: tokyoweekender.com
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4 JUL 30
3 JUL 30
HANDMADE IN JAPAN FES 2016
SHINJUKU EISA FESTIVAL Traditionally held to honor ancestral spirits with a series of dances and music parades, the event also features clowns and fire dancers. Where: Around Shinjuku How much: Free More info: tokyoweekender.com
7 JUL 15 SHITAMACHI TANABATA FESTIVAL
Booths, parades, performances, and an array of colorful streamers around Asakusa’s temples and shrines help celebrate Tanabata, the holiday for star-crossed lovers. Where: Around Asakusa How much: Free More info: tokyoweekender.com
CHIYODA NORYO NO YUBE Nearly a thousand lanterns will be placed in the Imperial Palace moat, and lucky ticket holders will be able to boat around the illuminated river. Where: The Imperial Palace How much: Free More info: tokyoweekender.com
SUMIDA RIVER MATSURI Brave the crowds for Tokyo’s largest fireworks, food, and all-around-good-feelings festival, which draws more than a million people yearly. Where: Sumida River, multiple sites How much: Free More info: tokyoweekender.com
8 JUL 9-10 NIPPON CRAFT BEER FESTIVAL Learn all about craft beer culture, with plenty of taste testing along the way. Limited entry: only 150 people per ticket type. Where: Kamakura beach and city How much: ¥3,900-¥4,500 More info: craftbeerfestival.org
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American-born Irish dancer Courtney and Irish Ambassador Anne Barrington at the Ireland National Day Party at the Okura
Tokyo’s Longest Running
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y the time you read this, we hope the rainy season has come and gone, but with the changing weather patterns all over the world, one never knows. If you’ve lived here any length of time, you know July, August and much of September can really be hot and humid. Even so, with a full schedule of culture and food festivals at Yoyogi Park, several major pop music festivals, classical concerts, sports events, beach and boat parties, and hopefully holiday getaways, it’s going to be a busy summer. Seijoro Udo and his staff at Udo Artists are celebrating the company’s 50th year of bringing top international music to Japan, including Eric Clapton, Duran Duran, Bruce Springsteen, and The Eagles. They’re bringing one of my favorite singers, Sarah Brightman, in for concerts at the Budokan on July 11 and 12. Top showbiz agency Kyodo Tokyo is also bringing “Blast” here again this summer. The show won all kinds of awards on Broadway, and has been here many times and is always sold out. It will be at the Tokyo Forum from August 23 to September 6. I had the privilege of going with a small group of journalists to the Park Hyatt Hotel’s 41st floor on May 10 for a superb French dinner prepared by Park Hyatt Sydney’s executive chef Franck Detrait. Just heard from the Park Hyatt Tokyo’s Kathy Konno Knowles about the hotel’s many summer events, and they all look very special.
DERMOZONE/STEVEN HAYNES’ MISS SUPRANATIONAL BEAUTY PAGEANT Talk about a great day with beautiful people! Being asked to be a judge in Dermazone and Steven Haynes’ Miss Supranational Japan 2016 beauty pageant was all that and more. It started on a train with my assistant, model/actor Hide Kusakari (who was also cameraman that day) to Omiya City’s Sonic City Hall where the contest took place. I really enjoyed the train ride (don’t do that much), liked Omiya, and was very impressed
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Muhammad Ali, Linda Yamamoto, Bill, model, and June Adams at the Nile Hilton in Cairo, 1964
Society Page with Bill Hersey with the Palace Hotel and show venue. I was also very impressed with the other judges. They included Miss Universe Japan 2008, Hiroko Mima; Makoto Hayashi; Ebisu Beauty Clinic director Yoshiaki Horie; and Lycee Glamorous director Yukako Ono. The fast-paced, entertaining show opened with a lively performance by a professional Awa Odori group. This was followed by an introduction of the 21 contestants who were each wearing a traditional costume from their own prefecture. Next on the program was the making of a huge and beautiful ikebana arrangement with live harmonica music in the background. After this truly artistic presentation, the contestants modeled a range of swimwear. This was followed by a short story by a traditional Japanese storyteller after which the contestants came out again in beautiful evening gowns. The winner was Lisa Nagashima from Yamagata-ken. Steve crowned Lisa, and Dermozone Indonesia’s founder and CEO Kayapan Satya Dharshan made a congratulatory speech. I couldn’t stay for the after party at a nearby British pub, but I did get to know Lisa better over coffee with her, Steve, and Italian artist Matteo Ceccarini at Shibuya Segafredo. She’s a really nice person, a great model, and a talented artist. She’s off to Poland soon for the final Miss Supranatural Pageant in Warsaw. Good luck Lisa. ARAB WEEK RECEPTION – IMPERIAL HOTEL I’d like to start by apologizing for having forgotten to wish my Muslim friends the best for Ramadan, which started on June 6. This very special time ends on July 5 this year, and I hope it was a good one for all my friends. On behalf of the celebration of Arab-Japanese friendship and the Council of Arab Ambassadors and Heads of Missions in Japan, Waleed Siam, the Dean of the Arab Diplomatic Corps, hosted a very special reception at the Imperial Hotel on April 4. As expected, it was wall-to-wall VIPs. The program included a welcome speech by Waleed and another by Prime Minister Shinzo Abe that pretty
Satya Dharshan with judges Yukako Ono and Hiroko Mima
Show producer Steven Haynes with winner Lisa Nagashima (Yamagata), first runner-up Yuki Sonoda (Kagoshima, left) and second runner-up Mira Shimizu (Gunma, right)
Judges Yoshiaki Horie and Makoto Hayashi
Steven Haynes Supranational Beauty Pageant
Rie Yoshida (Chiba), actor/model Hide Kusakari
Naz and Ishanaz Bahar
Bosnia and Herzegovina Amb. Anesa Kundurovic, Min-on Pres. H. Kobayashi, Tongan Amb.Tania Tupou
Waleed Siam, Prime Minister Shinzo Abe
Ibit Sam Masr (Palestine), Dewi Sukarno, Amir Siam, his mother Maali
Arab Week Gala – Imperial Hotel
Emile Yamano, Italian Amb. Domenico Giorgi, Emile’s daughter Nina
Rita Giorgi, Alan Daniel Taylor, artist Matteo Ceccarini
Cinema Italiano 2016
Rita and Domenico with Italian star Claudia Santamaria
Rita and Cinecitta’s Monique Catalino
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Norman Tolman with Amanda Fleming (left) and Jerri Donovan (right)
Conrad Hilton’s GM Heinrich Grafe with Daniel Kelly
Tolman Daniel Kelly Exhibit Dejeans Bid Sayonara IBM Pres. Paul/Onamine, Simul TV’s CEO Steven Turner
Hisanaga and Takako Shimazu (sister of the Emperor) and Grand Hyatt GM Steve Dewire
Outgoing Argentine Amb. Raul Dejean, his wife Teresa, their daughter Mariaeles
Amb. Dejean and politician Nishimura-san
Panama Ambassador Reception In & Around Panama Amb. Ritter N. Diaz, his wife Ayana, Panama President Juan-Carlos Varela Rodriguez, and his wife Lorena
Park Hyatt PR’s Kathy Konno Knowles, Park Hyatt Tokyo exec. chef Thomas Angerer, Park Hyatt Sydney exec. chef Franck Detrait
Cuban Amb. Marcos Rodriguez Costa, his wife Rosa, Mexico Amb. Carlos Fernando Almada, his wife Maria, Dewi, Chile Amb. Patricio Torres, his wife Cecelia
Kyoko Spector, Dewi Sukarno, Global Dining Pres. Kozo Hasegawa
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Haitian Amb. Judith Exavier, Bosnia and Herzegovina Amb. Anesa Kundurovic
much chronicled his visits to many Arab countries. It was a very impressive opening where all the hosting Heads of Missions went on stage and posed for photos in front of the 20 colorful and distinctive flags on display. The wives of the Arab Ambassadors, in their beautiful dresses and jewelry, were particularly lovely. The bountiful buffet that evening was superb, with each of the 20 countries involved preparing and presenting home-made specialties. Kudos to the many who put so much time and effort into making the evening the special occasion it was. PANAMA PRESIDENT’S VISIT A BIG SUCCESS Panama’s popular and personable first couple, President Juan Carlos Varela and his wife Lorena, and their delegation were in Japan for four days on an official visit recently. Even with a full schedule of meetings with government and business leaders here, they took time to attend and enjoy a huge reception that Panamanian Ambassador Ritter and his wife Ayana hosted in their honor at the Yamabuki room in the Palace Hotel. For the glittering reception, both the President’s and Ambassador’s wives wore traditional kimono, and as you can see by the photos, they looked great. Once the formalities were over, the reception was very lively and Latin. There was Panamanian music by a Cuban band, and the President moved around the crowded room talking with and having his photo taken with many of the guests. Thanks to Ambassador Ritter, I had the opportunity to meet and talk with him. I’ve never been to Panama, but did date a Panamanian girl, Elsita, when I was attending an international seminar in Sedona, Arizona. When the two-month seminar was over, she stayed at my parents’ home in Phoenix for several months before returning home. She was a real live wire and we had some great times in Phoenix. Those were the days, my friends. SAYONARA RAUL AND TERESA Looking back, I often feel like the only thing I really regret about writing this column is seeing so many good people – good friends! – come and go. This is especially true with diplomats, whose average posting is three to four years. I don’t know why, but it seems like so many have left in the last few months, or are leaving soon. These include the popular Argentine Ambassador Raul Dejean and his super wife Teresa, after five years and five months. Raul and Teresa will return to Buenos Aires where, after retirement, Raul will work in the private sector. Their lovely daughter Mariameles has work here and will stay on. We wish the Dejeans all the best back home, and welcome the new Ambassador, Alan Beraud. Raul and Teresa were very popular and their home was wall-to-wall with interesting people for the party. I hadn’t seen good friend Fumiko Tottori, the mother of Princess Takamado, for quite some time, so I really enjoyed talking with that special lady. Also enjoyed talking to the embassy’s executive chef Penelope Barboza. She’s really good at what she does, as the bountiful buffet of many Argentine favorites went to show. ITALIAN CINEMA FESTIVAL RECEPTION Italian Ambassador Domenico Giorgi and his wife Rita hosted another great event at their beautiful home in Mita. The occasion was to celebrate the Festival del Cinema Italiano 2016, Tokyo. It was an interesting gathering of the Giorgis’
With Kathy Kriger at The Oak Door
friends that included well-known people in the arts, fashion, show business, and of course film world. These included one-time fashion model and now Italian fashion sales executive Emile Yamano. Years ago I had a boutique called “Le Bazaar” on Aoyama Dori with Emile and my dear brother Chris. Hadn’t seen Emile for years and it was really nice chatting with him and his daughter, Lena. Also nice seeing Italian artist Matteo Ceccarini. He’s been here for six years and has a studio in Tokyo. He showed me some photos of a few of his works and I found his portrait of 104-year-old doctor Hinohara fascinating. It was also interesting talking with Italian film star Claudio Santamaria, who’s very popular on the European film scene. TOLMAN EXHIBITION – CONRAD HILTON Several months ago, the Tolman Collection gallery got together with the GM of Conrad Hilton, Heinrich Grafe, and they cooperated on an exhibition of the work of 103-year-old artist Toko Shinoda at the prestigious hotel. It was a huge success, so they decided to do the same with another of Tolman’s famous artists, Daniel Kelly. Daniel’s work is well known, and many of his friends and fans turned out for the opening party for the exhibit. It was a casual evening with some really interesting people. The program included an introduction of the artist, a traditional Japanese dance by Daniel’s friend Tomomi, and a delicious gourmet buffet. I was able to take a visiting friend from the US: Steven Turner, who’s CEO of Simul TV Interconnect Media. Norman Tolman just never slows down. His current project is a tieup with the Nagoya Post Office where they’ve issued 10 postage stamps featuring different pictures of Toko Shinoda. The exhibition will run at Kitte Nagoya from July 15 to July 31. The collection will also be available at the Tolman Collection gallery (tel: 03 3434 1300). I’m sure it will be a real collector’s treasure. GREAT MEMORIES OF “THE GREATEST” Sorry to end this column on a sad note for so many. I know it’s a part of life, and I have lost a lot of friends recently. That’s what they say as one gets older. Muhammad Ali had been sick a long time with Parkinson’s disease, but I was still shocked when he passed away a few weeks ago. Looking back, I was able to find some photos I had the privilege of taking with Ali in Cairo where I first met and got to spend some time with him many years ago. I was in Egypt with a cameraman and three models where I was directing the shooting of a series of fashion photos for both men’s and women’s magazines here. The models were pop singer Linda Yamamoto, American-Japanese model June Adams and – sorry – I can’t find the name of the third. We were shooting by the Nile River when a couple of people, including Ali, came over to watch. Of course I recognized the world famous boxer, and introduced myself. He was super nice, and made me feel as though I had been his friend for years. He was also obviously impressed by June’s beauty as, for two days, he showed up wherever we were shooting around the hotel. Believe me – all the good things you’ve heard and read about him were true. He was really an easygoing, easyto-admire, easy-to-like man.
Tina Bingham and Alastair Prentice at
Dan Kerrigan, Mioko and beautiful little
Hiroo Segafredo
Abigail
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BACK IN THE DAY: 1982 Check out the scene in Tokyo from 1982! You can read the rest of this issue (No.26 1982) and view Weekender’s 46-year archive online. www.tokyoweekender.com/weekender-archives/
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