4 minute read
More flavour, less waste
BY TRACY BURTON
When Cidália Cruz became a vegetarian thirty years ago it was near impossible to find meat substitutes in the Algarve, let alone a cookery book.
As a law student in Portimão, she dreamed of one day opening her own vegetarian restaurant. In January, she and her husband Russell made that dream a reality with the opening of the Farmers Restaurante at Convent’bio in Lagoa.
“When I became a vegetarian in 1990, there was nothing,” she explains. “The easiest way to become vegetarian is to use meat substitutes like tofu and tempeh (fermented soya beans), but it was very difficult to find anything in the shops back then.”
She and Russell have known each other a long time, and became a couple seven years ago. Russell was not vegetarian; however, within a week, the professional chef had transformed his own eating habits.
“When we met again, I introduced Russell to all the different ingredients and techniques used in vegetarian cooking, then about four years ago we went on an intensive course in Lisbon,” Cidália tells me.
Despite their shared passion for healthy vegetarian and vegan cuisine, the couple had no immediate plans to open a restaurant of their own. In fact, when she found herself with free time four years ago, Cidália launched a zero-waste food project, in which she concentrated on creating and publishing (on social media) her own tasty recipes using roots, stalks, seeds and peel.
“People throw peel away because they’ve been taught to do that, but the peel from organic fruits and vegetables like bananas, mangos and beetroot is often more nutritional than the parts they eat,” she explains. “You can save 30% on your food budget by reducing the amount of food you waste.”
Where did the idea for the project originate? “I really can’t remember,” admits Cidália. “I think I found a recipe that used peel and thought it sounded interesting. It was just a hobby at first. I started searching for ideas, and was spending all my free hours cooking and improving my recipes. I’d take photographs of the dishes and began putting them on Facebook. At the very beginning Russell told me, ‘one day you’ll write a book’.”
He was right. Cidália’s first vegan cookery book, Mais Sabor, Menos Desperdício (More Flavour, Less Waste), was published in November 2019. The book sold over 500 copies in the first four months.
The couple were living in Helsinki when they learned from a friend that the restaurant space at Convent’bio was available. Coincidentally, they were already returning to Portugal for Cidália’s book launch. “We’d always said when the moment comes it’ll happen,” explains Cidália. “There was a lot to do in a short time, but Convent’bio is a perfect fit for us. Everything grown and sold here is organic or bio and the building itself is unique.”
Their concept is to cook tasty organic food, combining Cidália’s mouth-watering and unusual recipes with Russell’s eclectic talents and experience of running a restaurant. Russell qualified as a chef after leaving school and was fortunate to work alongside a head chef who was himself trained by the famous French chef Georges Escoffier. It was Escoffier who, in the early twentieth century, created the five basic ‘mother sauces’ which continue to provide the basis for virtually every sauce recipe. It goes without saying that Russell excels at sauce making, although he insists Cidália’s sauces are just as delicious as his own. They are assisted in the kitchen by Russell’s long-time friend Domingos, who also sticks to a plant-based diet.
What advice do they have for anyone who is thinking about becoming vegetarian or vegan but has yet to take the leap? “Don’t push too hard at the beginning, just start searching for recipes and reading about the philosophy behind vegetarianism and veganism,” suggests Cidália, who became vegan four years ago.
“People’s food choices come down to subconscious programming,” adds Russell. “They are not willing to change because they equate change in their life as losing out. If the food is tasty it’s much easier for people to make the transition.”
Their menu changes frequently and includes the dish of the day, vegan sushi, homemade soups, fresh juice, and fruit teas, plus a variety of homemade cakes and desserts. All the ingredients used are organic and are purchased from Convent’bio.
“We don’t want dining here to be a rushed affair,” Russell adds. “It’s really nice for people to come in and slow down; to take the time to really taste the ingredients.”
Having been offered – and eagerly accepted – a delicious beetroot-based ‘raw cake’ with an organic biscuit and date base, and devoured it at top speed, I rather beg to differ. But then there’s always next time!
The Farmers Restaurante is open 9 a.m. to 6 p.m., Monday to Friday and until 10 p.m. on Saturdays (when reservation is essential). There is outdoor seating and a takeaway service is available.
+INFO:
+351 935 371 466
farmersrestaurantelagoa2020@gmail.com
Facebook: Farmers Restaurante & Art Café
