Yves Saint Laurent brand report by toni_abrahams

V E S L A U

Toni Abrahams 100394104

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Contents 4 Excecutive Summary

7 Introduction

9 Brand Heritage

12 Brand Value

14 Brand Identity

16 Brand Consumers

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17 Brand Assets

18 Brand Positioning

21-26 Communications Mix

28-29 Conclusion

30-34 Bibliography

Excecutive Summary

his report investigates the luxury fashion brand Yves Saint Laurent through the research partaken; exploring the history of the brand through to its current positioning within the market and the strategies implicated for expansion. Research methods include fashion articles, a visit to Saint Laurent boutique in Selfridges Birmingham, in addition to a range of books about the designer. The research combines information on the designerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s impact of the fashion industry as a whole and how the brand has been continued after his retirement, through to information about the rebrand. Particularly looking at the way the brand interacts with its new consumer group whilst maintaining its value, with statistics supporting the successful growth of the brand. Overall, looking at the brand as a collective and how it is positioned within the market in which it operates.

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he meaning of brand refers to“A particular product or line of products, offered for sale by a single producer or manufacturer and made easily distinguishable from other similar products by a unique identifying name and/or symbol” (Ostrow & Smith, 1988, p.26).

the designer Yves Saint Laurent and partner Pierre Berge. The brand Yves Saint Laurent had recently been rebranded to ‘Saint Laurent Paris’ by past creative director Heidi Slimane.

Equally the definition of fashion branding refers to “the cumulative image of a product or service that consumers quickly associate with a particular brand; it offers an overall experience that is unique, different, special and identifiable” (Hancock, 2016, p6) Saint Laurent Paris is a high end, luxury brand that was originally established in 1961 by

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BR AND HER ITAG E

Brand heritage is a concept in which the histor y of a brand to differentiate from other brands within a market. In addition to this it can also be seen as a stor y telling technique to evoke an emotional connection between the consumer and brand (Anon,2017).

Yves Saint Laurent started his mark within the fashion industry as Christian Dior’s assistant, and then proceeded as creative director for Dior after his passing in 1957. His years designing for Dior were successful ones, making him famous globally by age 21 (The Business of Fashion, 2017). Following his success, Yves Saint Laurent and partner Pierre Berge started the brand ‘Yves Saint Laurent’ in September 1961 when opening their Haute Couture house, it all began in a two-bedroom apartment in Paris. Haute Couture is a French term meaning ‘high sewing’ and relates to made to order clothing (The Business of Fashion, 2017).

because his aims were to give women a sense of empowerment through his designs, taking feminism to the next level. “A woman wearing Yves Saint Laurent could feel confident and self-assured’. (Saint Lauren, 2008, pg 24). The ‘Le Smoking Suit’ was invented in the 1966 as Yves Saint Laurent dressed women in pin striped suits and blazers. Critics believe that it was an alternative to Chanel’s ‘little black dress’ (Suit, 2017). As Yves Saint Laurent was the investigator of masculine clothing for women. Society reacted in an unfavourable manor to the extent that prevented women from being allowed to eat in certain restaurants if they were wearing a Yves Saint Laurent trouser suit.

In reaction to this Yves Saint Laurent expanded his lines by launching the first ‘ready to wear’ collection in 1966. This was named ‘Saint Laurent Rive Gauche’ after the river that runs through Paris. This collection was set to be sold pret-a-porter store. Yves Saint Laurent used this line of clothing as a sense of freedom and ability to explore (Saint Lauren, 2008, pg 28). This investment gave them opportunity to appeal to a different range of consumers. “Fashion would be a sad business if all it did was put clothes on rich women.” As quoted by Yves Saint Laurent (Saint Lauren, 2008, pg 8).

The haute couture house closed on 31st October 2002 following Yves Saint Laurent’s retirement. The brand has been continued since by designers such as Tom Ford, Stefano Pilati, Heidi Slimane and Anthony Vaccerello in whom is the current creative director.

Kering is a company that operates on a global scale as a brand platform that develops luxury fashion houses as well as sport and lifestyle brands. Their company message is to “empower imagination” as they believe that sustainability is the key to company success. They bought the brand Yves Saint Laurent in Yves Saint Laurent was the first designer to 1999 and also own other brands such as: Gucci, use ethnic models on the run way in order Balenciaga, Alexander McQueen, Christopher to create a sense of equality. With regards to Kane and Puma (Kering.com, 2017). this Naomi Campbell credits him for her first French vogue cover (Barnett, 2017). This is

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Brand Value

rand Values relates to the way the brand operates in relation to its consumers. Behaviour and performance are ways in which the brand value can be measured (Posner, n.d.). An example of this would be: Customers staying loyal to the brand, regardless of the price.

It is believed that Heritage and maintaining elements of the designer’s original work isn’t the only important component of the brands value. “Tomorrow’s luxury isn’t based on heritage and artisanal excellence. There must be creativity. We have a modern vision of luxury based on strong creative content and codes that will last overtime.” (Digiday, 2017) That is why innovation is another crucial element. Yves Saint Laurent touched on this in his career as he was referred to as the instigator of the first ‘ready to wear’ collection, Saint Laurent Rive Gauche. This collection captured elements of modernity, freedom and youth through the wide range of menswear and womenswear collections. The brand values became unclear within the 2017 campaign. Although it creates a modern vision, it also promotes a “Porno Chic” image for the brand. One image displays an underweight woman wearing fish nets with her legs open for the camera, on roller-skates. Whereas another image displays a woman bending over a stool wearing roller-skates. (Hall, 2017). The reaction of these campaigns were unfavourable as it sexualises and objectifies women. Not only does this demoralise the brands values, it opposes all of Yves Saint Laurent’s life time achievements in creating clothes to empower women. There was no initial response from Saint Laurent Paris as the images continued to stay on all social media platforms.

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B R A ND IDENTIT Y Brand Identity refers to the elements in which define its identity. It is a fundamental element of consumer recognition and differentiates the brand from its competitors. Additionally, consumers are favourable to connect with brands that reflect their personal perspective, that is why there needs to be a strong connection between brand and consumer identity. (Posner, n.d.).

He achieved this by creating “the perfect cut” which then empowered his idea of “masculine clothing for women” in conjunction to the use of the colour black. In addition to this Yves Saint Laurent also explored placing colours together that clashed rather than complement each other. (Kapferer and Bastien, The ‘YSL’ typography logo is another addition within securing the brands identity. It was designed by graphic designer Aldolphe Mouron Cassandre in 1961 when the brand was first launched. Typography logos originally were a form of copy write protection, then later used to counteract as a form of signature (Kapferer and Bastien, 2015). The mass market recognise the brand by its logo more than any other element. This is why during the rebrand to ‘Saint Laurent Paris’ it was a vital element to be kept the same, otherwise there would be a risk that consumers could disconnect from the established brand.

The story telling of Yves Saint Laurent himself captures the brand identity as it was thought that he turned fashion into art (Vogue.it, 2017). Each of his designs were created for a character of whom was seductive and powerful. 2015).

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BR AND CONS U M E R S

The term Consumers refers to the user of a product or ser vice the brand offers. Dictionar y, c. (2017). Each consumer possesses an individual shopping behaviour therefore it is impor tant that the brand should understand the segment of the market they want to target (Posner, n.d.).

ime is one element that has determined the type of consumer that shops at Yves Saint Laurent. Originally when the Haute Couture house opened, Yves Saint Laurent himself, wanted to target an audience of women who couldn’t afford to buy Haute Couture. This wasn’t achieved as the best factories and fabrics were insisted on being used resulting in a premium price tag and ‘particularly rich’ feel.

leads younger consumers to be engrossed with the culture of ‘must have’ in order to rank themselves in the hierarchy of society (Newlearningonline.com, 2017). Sources of extra finance such as credit cards, store credit and overdraft limits fulfil consumers desire as designer clothing becomes increasingly accessible. In addition to this younger consumer will continue living at home and delay entering the housing market to be able to keep up with their high profile lifestyle. In During Tom Ford’s time as creative director contrast to older consumers when growing for Yves Saint Laurent, he designed with up there was a larger divide within class a film star consumer image in mind therefore designer clothes were primarily for (Jackson and Shaw, 2010). Where as the the upper class. Overall meaning that older current rebranding had transformed consumers demand to keep up with trends the consumer profile into a grunge aren’t as prominent as younger consumers. aesthetic (The Business of Fashion, 2017). Rebranding the ready to wear collection to ‘Saint Laurent Paris’ was a way in which the company could understand and adapt to youth culture. Originally a customer of Yves Saint Laurent was of a mature lady aged between 35 and 60. Since the rebrand the customer of Saint Laurent has shifted to a mixture of men and women aged between 25 and 55. This is because younger consumers see fashion brands as ‘Cultural Capital’ (Archive. helvidius.org, 2017). A theory founded by sociologist Pierre Bourdieu relating to cumulative aspects of a person and how it reflects in society. Luxury brands reinforce the status of a consumer due to society becoming increasingly brand aware. This

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B R AN D A S S E TS The term ‘Brand Assets’ refers to distinctive, unique features of the brand has which makes it more valuable (Brandfolder, 2017).

o have a meaningful brand asset requires identification and quantification… the physical assets of a company now only represent a small part of the value of the company: it is the reputation that is worth paying for, as it can bring loyal customers and committed staff” ( Brassington & Pettitt, 2006, p309). The brand is at an advantage following Yves Saint Laurent’s identity of innovation and history of tailoring. Creating a personality for the brand through use of techniques and statement pieces that are still pioneering to this day. This is often a common trend in luxury brands that they begin with a real life person thus known as “the creator” (Kapferer and Bastien, 2015).

iconic products (Kapferer and Bastien, 2015). Le smokin’ suit and the Mondrian dress are two of Yves Saint Laurent’s most recognised, historic pieces in which consumers can create an emotional link to. A permanent collection of “investment pieces” were also introduced. These contain classic wardrobe essentials to be sold all year round. A few examples of the collection include: motorbike jacket, skinny jeans, black sweatshirts, hoodies, duffle coats, trench coats and, baby doll dresses (The Business of Fashion, 2017).

Luxury often referrers to timeless pieces. In which luxury brands often possess one or two

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B R A N D POSITIONING

Brand positioning relates to a strategic method that is used to differentiate a brand from competitors. “Brand positioning is not about the brand’s physicality; it is about the place the brand occupies in a consumer’s mind.” (Ries, A and Trout J. 1972)

he Reform Project’ as described by Heidi Slimane was to focus on both genders as a collective. Previous to this the brand had always heavily invested into womenswear collections, disregarding consideration to menswear. Within Yves Saint Laurent’s career, he produced a range of androgynous womenswear designs but never focused on how gender could affect the brand as a whole. In reaction to this Saint Laurent became one of the leading fashion houses to incorporate the same consideration into their male and female collections. In which they began designing clothing for both men and women that possess similar features. Another way that Saint Laurent Paris achieved this was by changing their brand strategy. The term brand strategy refers to a long-term marketing tool, which aids the understanding of target consumers (BusinessDictionary.com, 2017). The brand originally moved operated with a ‘loud’ brand strategy, this meant the typography logo featured in most designs. The result of this limited the garments to be seen as statement pieces, rather than everyday attire. Wealthy consumers are more in favour of discreet luxury whereas the large logo’ implies consumer status (Kapferer and Bastien, 2015). Therefore, subtle features such as; zip details and stitching patterns replaced the previous designs. This revived the brand from selling one off, status symbol garments such as hand bags, but to offer an overall diverse range of products.

Within the four years Heidi Slimane was at Saint Laurent Paris he managed to triple the size of the brand. Doubling the revenue with rebranding alone and making it the second largest brand owned by Kering after Gucci. (Brannigan and Brannigan, 2017)

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Communications Mix Sales Promotion Sales promotion relates to an activity that acts as incentive for consumers to purchase a product; a strategy in which sales can be enhanced (Dibb, 2016). Saint Laurent doesn’t operate in regards to sales promotion. Instead there is a wide price variance within their products. The brand offers diversity within its products; pursuing a couture collection, ready to wear collection in addition to their beauty products. “Consumers are now broadening their retail scope, and mixing top-end designer pieces with mid-market and value garments” (Mintel, 2011). Presenting a broad range of products means the brand is more accessible to a larger consumer base. Personal selling is a process of persuading a customer to purchase a product or service. (Dibb, 2016). Saint Laurent Paris invests heavily in its retail network. The brand has grasped the understanding of being a high end brand, in which the stores don’t receive a high volume of customers. In addition to this 39 percent of its revenue comes from sales within a department store, (The Business of Fashion, 2017) for example Selfridges. Enhancing customer experience is an important way to retain customers and value. They achieve this by trying to keep an equal ratio of staff to customers in each store (Khanonysl.blogspot.co.uk, 2017). Engaging with the customer from the moment of them stepping in the store ensures that they leave with satisfied in what they were looking for. It can also can be a viewed as technique to maximise sales by offering other products that are similar which can lead the customer purchasing a whole outfit, rather than the one garment they came into the shop for. One aim of Saint Laurent Paris is to create a “seamless experience between the offline and online worlds” (Digitalist Magazine, 2017). They achieve this through their minimalistic website layout focusing on powerful imagery and videos on all pages. “Luxury brands must integrate art on their e-commerce site.” (Kapferer and Bastien, 2015). Consumers easiest access point to the brand is through the use of technology. Therefore it is important the brand image is captured and retained through easy to navigate website.

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ADVERTISING Advertising is a form of non-personal communication that is paid for (Baines, P). It is regularly used by organisations to promote their products and services to a target market (Dibb, 2016).

During the re brand heavily invested in advertising to inform consumers of the new brand aesthetic. In which several black and white images of indie rock stars and models were released in reaction to this. The 2012 figures released by Business of Fashion explains how Saint Laurent Paris spent the most on advertising in comparison to their rivals and 7% of its sales revenue were dedicated to this.

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The fashion show is not an art – it is an element of marketing” (Saint Lauren, 2008, pg 123). Saint Laurent spring/summer 2018 show is set against the Eiffel Tower. Returning to the routes in which the brand began in remembrance of co-founder Pierre Berge. It showcased 91 looks, double of what regular

fashion show consists (Vogue.co.uk, 2017). Once Saint Laurent have produced a successful show, there is little need to purchase advertising space for the rest of the year. This suggests how a fashion show can generate between 10 to 100 times of the cost in free advertising.

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irect Marketing is a way in which the organization can communicate first hand with consumers. It avoids depending on marketing channels intermediaries but focuses on on marketing communications instead (Dibb, 2016). There is no evidence that Saint Laurent uses this method of marketing. Although from being a small luxury brand, it would be an opportunity to foresee. It may not be cost effective, but it can improve the value of the brand to the customer.

he term social media relates to websites and applications that allow users to participate in social networking (Oxford Dictionaries | English, 2017.) Saint Laurent Paris doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t focus on using a particular platform to engage with its customers. Instagram and Pinterest are the two main platforms which they use to display their campaigns and new collections online. Before Vaccarello took over as creative director the brand had minimum focus about being active on social media. Vaccarello restarted the Instagram feed, (Dazed, 2017) in which the brand now has 3.1million followers (Instagram.com, 2017). The new Saint Laurent consumer is involved with the world of social media; therefore, this is an opportunity for Saint Laurent to interact with their new younger consumer group.

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PU BLI C RE L ATIONS Public relations play an important role within the promotional mix. This is because it is planned and establishes the relationship between organisation and its target consumers (Dibb, 2016).

Celebrity endorsements is a form of marketing that involves using people in the public eye to promote the brand virally (BusinessDictionary.com, 2017). Designers often lend products to celebrities to wear at high profile events, for example the Grammys. (Jackson and Shaw, 2010). Over the years the red carpet has showcased many of Yves Saint Laurent garments. Recent examples include: Kate Moss, Cara Delevinge and Alexa Chung. Dressing celebrities at high profile events creates free use of media coverage, which can counteract as an advantage for the brand. It’s a growing demand to know what the A-Lister’s are wearing as consumers often idolise certain celebrities. Following on from this Saint Laurent chose Kate Moss as the lead role within their spring/summer 2018 campaign, consisting of three 1960’s style short films exhibiting the collection (Harper’s BAZAAR, 2017). Celebrities that ranked higher in society are more influential onto the public, which means Saint Laurent had to be selective when choosing the face of their campaign in reaction to the consumer.

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CONC LUSIO N

n summary, Saint Laurent is a globally established, luxury fashion and beauty brand that has been on a journey of innovation beginning with Yves Saint Laurent’s career, all the way through to the rebrand. Following the success of Yves Saint Laurent’s collections during his time working for Dior, he opened his couture house with partner Pierre Berge in 1961 and the brand began, in a two-bedroom apartment in Paris. Shortly after this in 1966, Yves Saint Laurent expanded his lines, by being the first designer to launch a ‘ready to wear’ collection. This allowed him to experiment as well as making the brand more accessible Historically, Yves Saint Laurent contributed extensively in shaping the fashion world. One reason being, because he was a great believer in equality. Therefore, he the first designer to use ethnic models on the run way, in addition to being the investigator of masculine clothing for women. Breaking the rules empowered his success and gave the brand a competitive advantage.

an opportunity to capture ‘youth culture’. Yves Saint Laurent had always designed in the mind of empowering women, therefore the original Yves Saint Laurent customer was of a wealthy, mature lady. This resulted in leaving the brand limited in the scope of sales and growth because of the particular market they targeted. Since the rebrand the same consideration is put into both menswear and womenswear collections, meaning gender is seen as a collective. In addition to this, the new grunge aesthetic appeals to a younger consumer, who is conscious about their hierarchy in society, through the image they portray. Proceeding successfully for the brand growth and revenue. Despite the array of changes, it was important that the brand maintained its identity. Otherwise the risk would be that they would disconnect from their consumers. They achieved this by keeping the typography ‘YSL’ logo, which has been associated with the brand since the beginning. In addition to this heavily investing in advertising, was needed to achieve communicating with the new market they are now operating in. They also restarted their Instagram page, to fulfil the same intensions. Although Saint Laurent doesn’t focus on using a particular social media platform to connect with its consumers.

The brand was bought by a luxury fashion house platform Kering in 1999, before Yves Saint Laurent’s retirement in 2002. In which the brand has been continued since by the likes of Tom Ford, Stefano Pilati, Heidi Slimane and Anthony Vaccerello the current creative director. The brand went under a vast transformation during the rebrand from‘Yves Saint Laurent’ through to Saint Laurent Paris in 2012, as

With the brand originating from a Haute Couture background, where clothing is made on a pre-order basis, sales promotion has never been initiated. The brand adapts to this through the variance within the price range of their products, an example being Saint Laurent beauty products and perfumes will have higher sales rather than clothing due to the affordability. Furthermore, they aim to create â&#x20AC;&#x153;seamless experience between the offline and online worldsâ&#x20AC;? in order to keep expanding, and stay competitive whilst they enter a mass market.

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