INTERVIEW WITH BRANDON TRAUXE - WHY EXFOLIATE THE SKIN - TO FOUNDATION REVIEW - HOW TO AVOID EARLY AGING
NO 33 - MARS. 2017
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DECIEM MIGHT BE THE MOST THRILLING THING TO HAPPEN TO SKINCARE IN A LONG TIME.
ACNE-PRONE SKIN? HERE ARE FIVE MISTAKES YOU DON’T WANT TO MAKE
SWEAT-PROOF SUNSCREEN TRICKS THAT WON’T CLOG YOUR PORES
IS SALT WATER FROM THE OCEAN HARMFUL TO YOUR SKIN?
EXCLUSIVE INTERVIEW WITH THE FOUNDER OF DECIEM: BRANDON TRUAXE.
PILLOWS: HOW THEY CAN BE HARMING (AND HELPING!) YOUR SKIN
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HOW TO AVOID EARLY AGING
WHY EXFOLIATE THE SKIN
THE ORDINARY FOUNDATION REVIEW - ARE THEY WORTH THE HYPE?
THE SKINCARE BRAND THAT’S ANYTHING BUT ORDINARY..
“Skincare geeks are obsessed, so you know it’s good. “ PHOTO BY DECIEM
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DECIEM MIGHT BE THE MOST THRILLING THING TO HAPPEN TO SKINCARE IN A LONG TIME. BY CHERYL WISCHHOVER Deciem is a Toronto-based company founded in 2013 by a serial beauty entrepreneur named Brandon Truaxe. The company name is a metaphor of sorts. According to a company representative, “The name comes from decima, which means ‘ten’ in Latin. Brandon called his craziness Deciem since everyone was always telling him not to do ten things at once, and he wanted to do exactly that. The name is to reflect this message and so it will stay the same even when we have more than ten brands.” Skincare geeks are obsessed, so you know it’s good. The fact that there are now ten brands is just lucky alignment; there were only two at launch. The brands include skin care, hair care, a men’s grooming line, and supplements, each with a unique personality profile – color cosmetics are in the works. (More on the brands shortly.) According to Cosmetics Mag, Truaxe and a partner started a luxury skincare line in 2006 called Euoko, whose best seller cost $525. After selling that brand, he started another beauty company called Indeed Labs, which he left in 2012. He started Deciem while working under a two-year facial anti-aging product non-compete agreement with Indeed Labs, launching with anti-aging hand products under the name Hand Chemistry and an oral supplement brand called Fountain. Hand Chemistry soon became a best seller at Boots in the UK, partly because people were using it on their faces, which is certainly one way to circumvent a non-compete. By all accounts, Truaxe is kooky, almost like a Willy Wonka of face cream. He says things like this gem from an interview last year in the Globe and Mail: “I think the beauty industry is a scam. That’s why I decided not to hire anyone who has ever worked in beauty before. There’s no point in hiring people experienced in scams.” In a Q-and-A with Get the Gloss, he shared,”I start work naked in my bed and end it the same way every day. In between, either be unnoticeable or make a statement. In between is really bad. It’s like buying flat black Diesel jeans.” This is not something that, say, Leonard Lauder would ever share in an interview. This is all part of the marketing narrative, which positions the company as an outsider in the industry, as “the abnormal beauty company.” The website is a riot of color, self-deprecation, and long
ingredient descriptions. I respond to it very strongly. The marketing is as compelling as Glossier’s, but for a neurotic skin care obsessive who cares about the difference between an AHA and a BHA rather than the perennial cool girl who maybe uses some serum once a month when she feels hormonal. The packaging is heavy on dropper bottles featuring graphic labels with vaguely sci-fi sounding names, like NIOD. It’s all very apothecary-lab-sample-esque. The products are generally not scented, so each has its own unique chemical-y smell. Don’t let this turn you off, though, because some of the most beloved and effective cult skin care products, like Biologique Recherche’s P50 and Skinceuticals’ CE Ferulic smell downright disgusting. The overall effect is, “I’m scientific. Trust me.” Despite this focus on the clinical, it’s all definitely done with a wink, and taken to an almost ludicrous extreme. Colorful bottles and labels show up across some brands that really evoke the Wonka aesthetic, and these contrast nicely with the faux-serious dropper bottles. But nowhere is the branding sillier than in the men’s Ab Crew line. Imagine Axe meeting the WWE and you have an idea of what the products look like. Deciem is trying to capture a breadth of consumers, from skincare newbies to those willing to spend $200 for a copper serum, which is ambitious. Its multitude of brands, and all the processes, from manufacturing to marketing, are self-contained and done in-house. “As a start-up, no single brand and concept can justify significant investment in having in-house laboratory, creative, manufacturing, technology, distribution, sales, and marketing resources,” Truaxe said in an email. “However, when you work on a few brands, they can each afford their timeshare of our resources. Furthermore, our team is always very excited and energized because of fresh ideas, brands and products. It’s very difficult to find and retain incredible talent – and money isn’t the way to do it. Evolving passion in what you do is the only way.” Deciem sells all of its brands on its website, at select retailers all over the world, and at three brick-and-mortar stores in Toronto. Stores are also slated to open in Melbourne, Sydney, and Seoul. UK and US stores are in the works.
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The UK has enthusiastically embraced the company, and it’s become fairly mainstream there after the success of Hand Chemistry and recognition by large magazines like Cosmopolitan UK. (Truaxe told the Globe and Mail, “The British media lick the floor when Deciem has something new.”) He says its direct retail business is the company’s biggest focus now. “It has continued to grow more than ten times year-on-year,” he said. The ten brands of Deciem: Want to throw some cash at his business model? Here is a quickie overview of all brands in the Deciem portfolio and which ones are available at retailers here in the US (Deciem also ships to the US if you order directly from its site): THE ORDINARY The Ordinary is a line of basic skin care, featuring one or two active ingredients, at prices that even make drugstore skin care brands look expensive. Nothing is over $15 and most are under $10. NIOD This is the brand for true skin care ingredient nerds. It does not talk down to you. It expects you to remember complex abbreviations of product names, like some twisted DNA sequence. (A typical AM regimen is described as this: LVCE, CAIS, MMHC, FECC, HV. NIOD itself stands for Non Invasive Options in Dermal Science.) Last year, Truaxe himself took to the comments section of the blog of UK-based aesthetician Caroline Hirons to answer questions about the high level regimen. Prices range from $28 for a cleansing balm to $200 for a copper amino acid serum, so it’s definitely a financial commitment. You can find the brand in the US at Urban Outfitters flagship stores, Forty Five Ten in Dallas, Shen Beauty in Brooklyn, B-glowing, and Joyus. HYLAMIDE This range of skin care is meant for the person who wants no-nonsense combination formulas with a decent price point. It features a series of serum “boosters” that you can buy for specific problems, like pores or plumping, some anti-aging products, and “finisher” products, which feature things like blur creams and mattifying lotions meant to be used as a last step. Prices range from $18 to $33. You can find the line in the US at CVS and Urban Outfitters. HAND CHEMISTRY This is the line that started it all. As the name suggests, the range is meant to be used on your hands, but it’s since expanded to some body products, including a very intriguing retinol dry body oil. Prices range from $9 for a basic hand cream to $28 for a hyaluronic acid hand and body lotion. You can find the brand in the US at CVS, Target, and Urban Outfitters.
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FOUNTAIN This is a line of ingestible dietary supplements featuring ingredients like hyaluronic acid and zinc and claim to do things like make your skin glow or give you stamina. These kinds of supplements are hugely popular lately, particularly in Asia, but you should know that they are untested by the FDA and largely unsupported by studies. (You could also say that about most skin care, too, but just throwing it out there. Read what the NIH has to say about supplements. ) Prices range from $24 to $68. You can find the brand in the US at Anthropologie, Free People, Net-aPorter, Urban Outfitters, and Ulta. HIF This hair care line is beautifully packaged in color-coded metallic tubes. There are 15 different cleansing conditioner formulas that claim to support a variety of hair types and issues such as volume, color treated hair, hydration, and anti-aging. They range from $21 to $33. You can find the brand in the US at Urban Outfitters, Folica, and Joyus. WHITE RX So, yes, this product line has a problematic name, but it’s dedicated to dark spots and discoloration – it’s definitely not purporting to turn you “white.” (You can read about the dicey history of calling products “whitening” here.) There are currently three products in the line, including a multi-active ingredient serum, and a primer that color corrects, with a supplement coming soon. Prices range from $30 to $43. AB CREW The logo for this brand is a stylized abdominal six-pack and is basically oozing testosterone. Welcome to Deciem’s man brand, which features protein supplements, grooming products, and bath/ body products with names like Ab-Carving Gel that purports to target fat deposits below the skin. It’s basically the equivalent of a cellulite cream for women, with just as questionable science. This product is actually disappointing to me from a clinical-proof perspective, but I’m not trying to get swole and whittle my body fat down to 3%, so I won’t be buying it. Prices range from $18 for a pre-shave oil to $70 for supplement powder. INHIBITIF As the fake word suggests, this line is meant to help inhibit hair growth after waxing or shaving. It features a body serum, a face serum, something called Intimate (*nods knowingly*), and a deodorant. Prices range from $7 to $30. GROW GORGEOUS This is a line of hair care meant to increase hair density and growth via a range of scalp serums, and address issues like split ends. It also features cleansing conditioners. Prices range from $18 to $50.
PHOTO BY DECIEM
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IS SALT WATER FROM THE OCEAN HARMFUL TO YOUR SKIN? BY RENÉE ROULEAU
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If you are someone who enjoys swimming in the ocean, whether for leisure or for regular exercise, you may have wondered how salt water affects the skin. Is it drying? Does it offer any benefits? How should one care for their skin when going for a swim? For the most part, I believe ocean water can be very helpful to the skin and can treat various conditions. For breakouts: Saltwater has natural antiseptic drying agents that is used in blemish treatments so if you’re prone to breakouts, a swim in the ocean can heal these up fast. Of course, you’ll always want to be wearing sunscreen to protect your skin from the damaging rays given off by the sun, however, UV light also helps to destroy bacteria so the combination of the saltwater and the sun can give great improvement for blemishes. For those with back acne, where it’s often difficult for a person to reach that area on your own to properly treat it, the seawater can really improve this, too. Pro tip for breakouts: Bring along a bottle to the beach and fill it up with saltwater. When at home, you can use this as a toner on your acne-prone skin after cleansing. By leaving the saltwater damp, you are sealing in all the therapeutic benefits into the skin to help heal blemishes. Note: When using tap water at home to wash your face, I recommend that you use an alcohol-free toner post-cleansing to wipe away the chlorine and chemicals found in water that can be very drying to the skin. For wounds: Many find the ocean’s water to be beneficial for healing cuts and any open skin (like blemishes). For skin rashes like eczema and psoriasis: Due to the slightly drying effects from the sodium found in saltwater, many find that red, irritated skin conditions like eczema and psoriasis can get improvement. Particularly for psoriasis, the addition of UV light from the sun can help greatly. For dry skin: If you’re already prone to dry skin on your face or body, saltwater can make this worse for some people. Granted, the pH balance of the water in which you swim can vary greatly so some ocean water may be less drying than others.
PHOTO BY CHRISTOFFER ENGSTRÖM
Pro tip for dry skin: It’s always a good practice for dry skin types to rinse off the saltwater after swimming and follow immediately with moisturizer. You can also protect skin dryness from occurring by using a water-resistant sunscreen prior to swimming. This type of sunscreen is formulated to use heavier emollients than nonwater-resistant ones so it creates a protective barrier over the skin so the water will bead off and not penetrate as deep into the skin and disrupt the skin’s natural moisture barrier. Save your lightweight sunscreen for times when you’re not swimming such as for daytime use under makeup. When it comes to the elements found in the ocean’s water, it’s important to know that although they contain enzymes, minerals, vitamins, and amino acids, you can only get so much benefit in its natural form. An ongoing trend in skin care, fueled by the popular green and craft movement, is the concept of taking items found in nature, and using them topically on the skin in an effort to deliver a certain result. The thought of using something in its natural, unadulterated form seems to be the healthiest, non-toxic way to go — right? Well, not necessarily. There is a term that is used by cosmetic scientists called “biomimicry”: using plant biotechnology to harness the best of what’s in a good thing and make it even better. I hope you enjoyed learning a few of the basics and feel inspired to seek out the healing powers of the sea.
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HOW TO AVOID EARLY AGING FREE ARTICLES FROM ARTICLESFACTORY.COM. BY MARILYNN SYRETT, VIJAY RAISINGHANI, SILVIA ROSSE.
Although the aging process cannot be prevented, the right preventive and corrective measures can assist you to slow down premature aging. Avoidance is always better than correction. In spite of the quest for a “fountain of youth,” one has yet to be located and it is unlikely that one ever will be. However, medical science has introduced techniques for prolonging life. Preventive health care, a balanced diet, adequate exercise, and medicines have resulted not only in a longer lifespan but also in increased vitality and youth throughout middle age. The typical human lifetime has been increased by about 20 years since the start of the twentieth century. Even though it has been slowed down, aging continues. The external signs of aging are familiar--grey hair or baldness, wrinkles, and loss in muscle tone. Although there is no specific timetable of those signs to appear, their onset is usually sometime after age 40. An earlier appearance of any one of these signs is an indication of early aging. The first reason is that as we age, our body produces less of two vital skin proteins called collagen and elastin. These are important as skin youth giving proteins. They give us a firm, supple, elastic and vibrant skin. And, when their natural production begins to slow down due to aging, we start to see wrinkles, fine lines, saggy skin, pigment inconsistencies, skin dryness as a consequence. The second reason for skin aging is the damage caused by the action of free radicals. They are highly reactive and volatile molecules that cause a lot of harm to our skin cells and lead to premature skin aging. All skin inevitably ages but different types of skin react in a different way to the aging process. Dry skin has a tendency to become thinner and wrinkle easily while oily skin tends to thicken, causing enlarged pores and a few deep lines to appear. One sign of aging skin is the loss in flexibility and elasticity. Although the aging process cannot be prevented, the right preventive and corrective measures can assist you to slow down premature aging. Avoidance is always better than correction. It’s simpler to stop a problem from developing than it is to remedy it later. The better condition skin is in when degeneration is slowed, the easier it is to preserve its health. It is quite vital that you maintain the skin you were born with in the best condition possible.
PHOTO BY NICK KARVOUNI
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For your anti-aging skin care regimen to be really effective there are some things you should do and there are some things you should refrain from. Here is a list of some of these do’s and don’ts.
Do’s Use products that contain AHAs & BHAs. AHA’s (Alpha-Hydroxy Acids) and BHAs (known commonly as retinols) are very powerful ingredients to combat the appearance of aging and improve the skin texture. AHAs scrape off dead skin cells and reduce wrinkles and fine lines on the skin.
Forget to moisturize. The most common reason people skip moisturizing is because they have oily skin. However, there is a grave misconception that oily skin doesn’t require moisture. There is a difference between moisture and oil. And oily skin requires moisture as well. Therefore, don’t give up on moisturizing ever, even if you have oily skin or if the humidity is high...
Exfoliate at least Once a Week. Use a good exfoliate or exfoliating lotion and make sure to rid your skin off dead cells at least once a week. People with oily skin or combination should use chemical exfoliators like glycolic acid or salicylic acid. People with sensitive skin should use scrubs found in microdermabrasives.
Ignore décolleté. Your neck and chest also have thinner and more delicate skin as compared to the skin on the rest of your body. Therefore, they exhibit the signs of aging like wrinkles and fine lines much earlier like your eyes. So, make sure you use your anti-aging skin care products on your neck and chest areas as well. Moreover, don’t forget to moisturize the areas well. It’s no use having a flawless face if your neck shows your actual age.
Use eye creams religiously. Eyes are the first place to show signs of aging. This is because the skin around the eyes is much more delicate, fragile and sensitive than the skin on the rest of your body and thus starts to show the signs of deterioration earliest. Make sure you apply a good eye cream daily, either in the day or at night. If you are using one for the day, it would be good to use one that has an SPF content as well. Use products that contain antioxidants. Antioxidants are the most powerful ingredients to fight the signs of aging. They are found in green tea and beta carotenes and work to eliminate wrinkles, fine lines and enhance the quality of sagging skin. They protect the skin against free radical damage and improve the skins overall quality. Don’ts Rub hard on the skin. When you apply skin care products, when you exfoliate or when you dry your skin after rinsing, make sure you don’t rub hard against your skin. Aging skin is exposed to harsh UV rays, pollution and carbon monoxide. Don’t stress it further by pulling on it. Just dab on skin care products lightly and pat the skin dry afterwards.
Forget the sunscreen. Winter is no reason you should skip sunscreen. your skin is vulnerable to the harsh sun rays all the time, even on cloudy days. Therefore , don’t forget to apply sunscreen whenever you venture out in the sun. Prolonged or unprotected sun exposure can cause grave sun damage and even lead to skin cancer. Slather on sunscreen about 15-20 minutes before you go out in the sun and reapply it every 3-4 hours. These preventive measures can delay the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Once the damage has already been done and it is too late for prevention, the only real options left is correction. These options can range from a simple anti-wrinkle cream to something as drastic as plastic surgery. Procedures such as laser resurfacing and microdermabrasion are also getting increasingly popular. However, even the simplest anti-aging skin care regimen can become costly over time so it is preferable to avoid premature aging, rather than attempting to treat the symptoms once they appear.
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THE ORDINARY FOUNDATION REVIEW - ARE THEY WORTH THE HYPE? BY AYESHA MUTTUCUMARU
With a sign-up list of well over 25,000 people, it’s safe to say that the launch of The Ordinary’s new foundations is one of the most highly anticipated of the year. And at under £6, among one of the most affordable too. If the success of the brand’s skincare line is anything to go by, the demand comes as no surprise. Known simply as The Ordinary Colours, the two new foundations provide two finishes to choose from: Serum Foundation SPF15, £5.70, and Coverage Foundation SPF15, £5.90. How do they measure up? We put them to the test... What do they promise? Formula: “Pigments used within each formula are suspended in a unique spreadability system, allowing for even coverage and ultimate skin naturalness.” Finish: “With a semi-matte, breathable finish both foundations promise longlasting, durable wear and avoid collecting in fine lines.” Shade range: “The Ordinary’s unique suspension system allows shades to look so natural that three colours or more will suit most skin tones.” Do they deliver? The Serum Foundation SPF15 Comfortable on skin and easy to blend, the water-like feel of this particular foundation ensures it slips on pretty dreamily. Providing sheer to medium coverage, its semi-matte finish is certain to appeal to dry and oily skin types alike, while its lightweight texture makes it noticeably
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more wearable. It blends beautifully and makes for a great choice for those looking for a more natural-looking finish. The Coverage Foundation SPF15 Providing a more comprehensive level of coverage, its non-greasy formula makes light work of moderate levels of uneven skin tone, with a little going a surprisingly long way. Best for combination to oily skin types, it’s the better of the two when it comes to greater pigment and longevity. Shade range: With both foundations available in 21 shades, the inclusivity of both is very impressive. From fair to very deep, they additionally take account of common undertones to ensure more extensive tonal reach. Blending very well and delivering in terms of the even finish that they promised. Would we recommend them? Yes - particularly when compared to foundations of similar price points in terms of shade range and coverage. If you’re looking for something lighter, opt for the pretty universally appealing Serum Foundation. Looking for something more heavy-duty? Opt for the Coverage Foundation. Plus, their pump dispensers keep application mess-free - a welcomed addition, although you can also buy a dropper if you prefer. They may be ‘Ordinary’ by name, but when compared to other brands in terms of inclusivity, cost and finish, it appears they may be anything but.
PHOTO BY DECIEM
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PHOTO BY DREW GRAHAM
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ACNE-PRONE SKIN? HERE ARE FIVE MISTAKES YOU DON’T WANT TO MAKE BY RENÉE ROULEAU
If you deal with acne and frequent breakouts, surely you have tried everything under the sun to get clearer skin. Hopefully you’re getting results with your efforts, but if not, then you might be making these all-too-common mistakes. As an esthetician and someone who has been working hands-on with clients for 25+ years, I’ve noticed that there is a lack of education surrounding how the skin works and what is truly necessary for blemish-free skin. Read on for my expert advice. Mistake #1: Sticking to an acne-focused routine well into adulthood There comes a time in life (usually mid-20s) when breakouts decrease in frequency. However, many people continue to use a skin care routine focused on acne prevention. They carry the same regimen over from their teen years, thinking that if they stop using that routine, the blemishes will return. Sound familiar? Most people outgrow their breakouts due to changes in hormones, but adults make the mistake of treating the entire face with harsh and drying products. What’s more, they use these products in places where acne is never present. If breakouts are only occasional and show up here and there, this is not the best plan for your skin. Instead, use a spot treatment once breakouts occur, or use a gentle salicylic acid serum regularly to keep pores clean and prevent breakouts without drying. The bottom line is that once breakouts become less common, you need to adapt your routine to what the skin needs right then—not what it needed a few years ago when your breakouts were more frequent. If you’re in your mid to late 20s, I recommend that you start transitioning to more of a preventative, anti-aging focus for your skin. Search for lightweight anti-aging products formulated for your skin type since many companies make “anti-aging” products that are too rich and heavy. This can block the pores and cause more breakouts. I can assure you that anti-aging products do NOT have to be thick or rich to be effective; there are many potent youth-enhancing ingredients formulated in lightweight bases that deliver amazing results. A well-formulated antioxidant serum like Vitamin C&E Treatment is a great product to start using that protects the skin and prevents visible aging.
Mistake #2: Using acne spot treatments incorrectly When a blemish appears, the goal is to get it to heal quickly— agree? Most people have a variety of zit-zapping spot treatments in their bathroom. They tend to apply these products generously the moment a blemish pops up, hoping to dry it out and eliminate it quickly. This may come as a major surprise, but most spot treatments actually make the blemish last longer when used in this way. This type of regimen also leads to a prolonged recovery time due to scarring. It is important to understand how the natural healing process for an infected blemish (known as a papule or pustule) works. The infection (that oozing yellow-ish whitehead that appears) wants to come up and out through the skin’s surface. This is how the skin wants to heal itself. However, when a harsh spot treatment is applied the moment a blemish appears, it immediately dries out the skin’s surface and creates dead, flaky cells. These cells keep the infection trapped, making it harder for it to come out. The longer that infection is trapped in the skin, the longer your blemish will be there. The longer the blemish is there, the more damaged the skin becomes, resulting in discoloration and scarring. Not good. The best solution is to leave the blemish alone. Let it do its thing without applying a drying spot treatment. This will help to get rid of it faster—and getting rid of a blemish as fast as possible is the ultimate goal, right? When the infection comes to the surface appearing as a whitehead, you can apply a warm, damp washcloth to it for 2 minutes to soften the skin and to make extraction easier. Next, wrap your fingers in tissue and gently squeeze the whitehead twice. If you have a sterile lancet, you can pierce the blemish to get it out more easily. If it doesn’t come out in one or two tries, it means it wasn’t ready. Squeezing before the blemish is “ripe” will only further injure the skin, resulting in redness and a dark scar. Take that as a lesson, and wait a little longer next time. Once the whitehead is removed (along with a little clear liquid and blood), it can now actually be useful to dab on a drying zit-zapping product. During this phase, the ingredients permeate the pore lining. This quickly dries up any remaining bacteria, and closes the opening on the skin’s surface.
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Night Time Spot Lotion is a powerful acne spot treatment that I recommend to my clients. After a few days once it’s healed and a scab is no longer present, you may be left with a dark, discoloured mark. When this happens, Post-Breakout Fading Gel is a great product to make the scar disappear more quickly. Also, Daytime Blemish Gel is formulated to be used under makeup to prevent interference from liquid foundations and primers. You can’t always prevent a blemish from appearing, but you CAN control what happens when it does. I encourage you to be patient and let the healing process run its course. Your skin will be clearer and less scarred. It’s always best to work with Mother Nature, and never go against her. And I also encourage you to check out my Zit Care Kit which contains all of the mentioned blemish spot treatment products as well as a step-by-step guide for how to use them to make a blemish go away FAST. Note: Cysts are a unique type of blemish. These are hard, painful, infected bumps that appear deep within the dermis layer of the skin. When left alone, the body will eventually reabsorb the infection, as cysts aren’t meant to come out through the surface. This can be a lengthy process, taking up to 1-3 weeks. Many people are tempted to pick at cysts. If you’re someone who gets these, they are uncomfortable and you can “feel something under there”. I can assure you that picking at a cyst is not effective. It will only result in discoloration that can linger for months. If you attempt to use a traditional spot drying treatment, this won’t do anything other than dry out the surface of the skin… which is NOT where the infection is. A go-to option for reducing cystic breakouts has often been to get a cortisone injection performed at the doctors’ office. This is not only expensive, but it can also have negative side effects such as injection atrophy. This is where the skin appears indented once the cyst goes away. Twenty years ago, I developed Anti Cyst Treatment. This is a ground-breaking problem skin treatment exclusively formulated to quickly relieve types of blemishes. When applied directly on the cyst, it can eliminate cysts more rapidly – without a trip to the doctor’s office. This product has been a life saver for thousands of users, so it’s definitely worth checking out. If you get monthly hormonal breakouts, you’ll definitely want to read this. Mistake #3: Skipping sunscreen People who get acne are often so focused on dealing with their blemishes that they overlook one surprising blemish product — sunscreen! Those with acne-prone skin types will generally shy away from sunscreen because traditionally, formulas feel too heavy on the skin. Some formulas can actually worsen breakouts. But did you know that NOT using SPF daily can make the post-breakout red and dark scars linger for even longer? The biggest problem with those who have acne is not the actual blemish (since most breakouts will heal up in 4-7 days). It’s the discoloration left behind from the skin’s injury. Acne scars are the result of inflammation within the dermis layer of the skin. Inflammation triggers pigment cells, resulting in red or purple discoloration. The severity of the scarring depends on how much you picked at the blemish. This can linger for 1-2 months. Pigment cells stay active whenever your skin is exposed to UV
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daylight (in spring, summer, fall and winter). This means a blemish scar takes longer to fade. Sunscreen keeps pigment cells calm, so the fading process for blemish scars begins more quickly. Wearing a lightweight, non-pore clogging sunscreen like Daily Protection SPF 30 will protect the damaged cells and give them time to properly heal, recover and fade. Your skin can get even-toned much faster. And of course, sunscreen also offers amazing anti-wrinkle benefits. Mistake #4: Over-exfoliating Brushes like Clarisonic, or all rotating brushes for that matter, are marketed as cleansing brushes. Consumers are led to believe that the skin isn’t really clean if we aren’t scrubbing. What most people don’t understand is that these are exfoliating tools rather than just cleansing tools. The oscillating bristles are designed to remove dead skin. Exfoliating the skin is very effective for preventing blocked pores, but using a brush twice daily (which is recommended by most manufacturers) is equivalent to using a facial scrub twice daily. Most people know better than to manually scrub their skin twice a day, but with the Clarisonic, they defer to its marketing materials. Acne is an inflammatory disease of the skin. If you’re scrubbing too much, you’re actually creating more inflammation. This is especially true for people who really grind those brushes down hard on their skin. Ouch! Over exfoliating will damage your skin’s natural moisture barrier, leaving it unbalanced. When people add other exfoliating products in their routine (acid serums and acid peels), in addition to the brush, it really stresses out the skin and adds to the inflammation. Many people find their breakouts, redness and dryness diminish once they cut back on using the brush. If you’d really prefer to use a brush rather than a facial scrub, I recommend using it 3 days per week. If you want to up your exfoliation game in in a safer and gentler way to clear breakouts, start using an acid serum with salicylic acid a few nights a week. The benefit is that the antibacterial ingredients enter the pore lining and help clear out breakout activity. Mistake #5: Not using moisturizer FACT: People with acne-prone skin are paranoid about using moisturizer. They worry that it will clog their pores and not let the skin “breathe”. There are a few problems with this type of thinking. First, wearing moisturizer does not directly cause breakouts. Acne occurs when the cells that line the inner pores fail to fall off properly and the pore becomes clogged. This process happens whether you moisturize or not. Second, respiration doesn’t happen in the skin. The concept of your skin breathing is false. Those with oily, blemish-prone skin must use moisturizer no matter what. Your skin needs sufficient water to keep it healthy and balanced. Skipping moisturizer disrupts the skin’s proper water levels, and this dehydration process stimulates more oil production. This potentially causes more breakouts, as it encourages the formation of bacteria and the build-up of dead cells within the pores. So, there you have it— my expert advice on what NOT to do. But hopefully this clarifies what WILL help you in your quest to get clearer, less-blemished skin.
PHOTO BY TANJA HEFFNER
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PHOTO BY DECIEM
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EXCLUSIVE INTERVIEW WITH THE FOUNDER OF DECIEM: BRANDON TRUAXE. Brandon Truaxe is a maverick. He launched The Abnormal Beauty Company three years ago — at the age of 35 — with a suite of 10 brands under the umbrella name of Deciem. He had the nerve to challenge and disrupt the beauty industry with unique ideas and principles. Since, the brand has grown rapidly, and it recently attracted the attention of Estee Lauder. The beauty behemoth has now taken a minority stake in the company. I was thrilled to have an opportunity to discuss Deciem’s unique approach to skin and hair care and what will happen next with the company.
BY MARTA, ROSE-ANN CULLEN, KAE PRATIWI
You have very unique products that seem to fill white spaces in the beauty market that I didn’t even know existed. How do you do that? What is Deciem’s approach to product ideation and creation? BT: Ultimately, this is what Deciem is as a business. This process — the creative process of making products — is how we have grown. Ideas are not a problem. The hard part is to decide what not to do. We go through two to three iterations of a product to really push at what will make it new and, more importantly, effective. You started in computer science — how does that discipline work its way into your approach to beauty and skincare? BT: Computer science is structured. We think in binary ways. In skin care, there is a lot of grey fluff. I wanted to start with the reality, with the chemistry and that’s where I am still focused. I couldn’t be happier. This is a crowded business, but not a competitive one. In the big companies, there are too many layers of decision makers for them to do very much. The competition is the smaller guys, but they tend to outsource their products to third party labs that use a limited set of tried and trusted ingredients. I hope that the independents will start to do it themselves. Then, we’ll see better products and the industry change. Who is involved in the process? BT: The key was bringing in the right kind of chemist. A knowledgeable chemist is not going to innovate. But a creative chemist will because they will connect all the dots that result in real innovation. I realized from the outset that we are working with active technologies (like medicine) and so we needed bio-chemists and materials chemists. We meet twice a month to discuss our product development — seven chemists, marketing, creative, and me. The products evolve as a result of the interactions of all of us. How involved are you personally in the product development? BT: I spend about 30 percent of my time in the lab. That is probably unusual for a CEO. But for me, it is a vital part of my role. I also test all of the products. It’s like if you own a restaurant, you need to try all the food.
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“What I love about the beauty industry is that it has an audience that loves to understand, to learn, to explore.“
Tell us more about the NIOD line. This is where you seem to be really focused on new approaches to anti-aging. BT: With NIOD, our starting point is always that we have to make something better than anything out there. If we can’t, then we simply won’t do it. As a result, NIOD products are complex and laboriented, and we constantly iterate and update the formulas. Why did you feel the beauty industry needed a good shake-up, a new approach? BT: There are four segments in the beauty industry. First, color cosmetics where there is brand trust, loyalty and instant gratification. Second is lifestyle brands such as Aveda or the Body Shop, where there is trust and instant gratification. Third is fragrance, which is an extension of fashion. And finally, skin healthcare, which is completely stagnant with no brand loyalty. The market share of big brands is declining. It is in that fourth category, skin healthcare, where the most innovation is needed, but the least is happening. If you go into a department store, you’ll see products that have been around for 10 years and haven’t changed. By creating The Abnormal Beauty Company, I was acknowledging the lack of consumer trust in the business. And then I created a platform that could be leveraged to introduce new brands. But now you have aligned yourselves with a big brand, Estee Lauder. How will that change things? BT: It’s a minority stake, and I retain complete control. We will be able to open a new manufacturing facility and greatly increase our capacity. We are carefully moving into the US market and will be opening a few stores there. We’ll be able to introduce new brands and products. People have reacted to the Lauder move by talking about animal testing. Deciem will not to test on animals, even as we enter this new chapter. We will not sell in mainland China. The unnecessary torture of animals is wrong. And Lauder is moving in the right direction with its recent acquistions. What are you thinking about now? What do you think will be new and interesting? BT: Skin pigmentation, increasing it or decreasing it, has been a challenge. There are high expectations but few results. There is some new testing that is promising with different molecules that are small enough to really deliver. We have solved the penetration issue, but the real issue is where does the active go.
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Does it get to the right target? The other area I think there will be breakthroughs is hair follicle health. Preventing hair from going grey is about three years away. Why did you create 10 different brands for DECIEM, rather than 1 brand which had a higher quantity of broader spectrum products? BT: When you start, no single brand or concept can justify or afford significant investment in having in-house laboratory, creative, manufacturing, technology (IT), distribution, sales and marketing resources. However, when you work on a few brands, they can each afford their timeshare of our resources. Furthermore, all of our team is always very excited and energized because of fresh ideas, brands and products. It’s very difficult to find and retain incredible talent and money isn’t the way to do it: evolving passion in what you do is the only way. Where do you draw inspiration from? BT: Sometimes from a technology that never existed; sometimes from a narrow gap in product offerings; sometimes from a new form of brand positioning (creative); and often just purely from anger at others who take advantage of this hocus-pocus category. What do you believe is the main reason for the success of DECIEM? BT: We still have a long way to go for me to consider us a “success” but passion is always the main reason for any success that grew from the ground up. If you could give our readers just one piece of advice for great skin, what would it be? Avoid anything that causes inflammation – it’s never good in the long term. This includes aggressive peeling treatments which should only be used in extreme conditions and infrequently. What do you love, and hate about the beauty industry right now? BT: What I love about the beauty industry is that it has an audience that loves to understand, to learn, to explore. What I absolutely hate about it is fluffy regulations (basically adds no protection to consumers) that marketers have to use to come up with verbiage to confuse everyone. Complete waste of taxpayer resources. Either have no regulation at all or treat the category somewhat like medicine. Turning “Removes wrinkles” to “Removes the appearance of wrinkles” doesn’t protect consumers.
I know there are some things that you don’t believe in, such as eye creams (or creams in general), cleansers, toners.. These are basically fundamental products in skincare routine that most people use (including myself) and you’re saying no to them. Yet, you have products in DECIEM such as NIOD LVCE, SS, SDSM and others that sound familiar. How do they differ from “mainstream” products out there? BT: I don’t believe in a moisturizer (“cream”) designed just for the eyes as any hydrator can target any area of the face or body. And, in general, we are overhydrating our faces which, around the eyes, can make water-retention worse. Serums to target specific eye issues are very different and I absolutely believe in eye treatments. I believe in cleaners but I don’t believe in over-cleaning, which is what I always complain about. I also don’t believe in the concept of a “toner” which in most cases is just a mist that feels good (or an acid or alcohol which can cause inflammation). SDSM is not a toner. It’s a large-size treatment with a light texture. It does not “tone” the skin in anyway and its function is not peeling, exfoliating, feeling good or pH adjustment. It’s not any less concentrated than a 30ml serum under NIOD. It’s simply a different format due to the way it’s used. Toners, on the other hand, are far far less concentrated than serums as a “step” in between cleaning and treatments. Why do you dislike the use of acid? I personally use it myself (OTC products, not professionally done) and see great results. That being said, I do use it with great caution. I’m very intrigued to know your insights about this. BT: Nearly all forms of direct exfoliation (like acids) cause inflammation. Inflammation is generally a root cause of every disease and ageing in general. When we peel our skin, we look great right away but the inflammation builds up. What do you think about facials or procedures such as lasers done in dermatologists/aestheticians/beauty clinics? BT: Lasers cause inflammation. I am generally against them. If one insists on lasers, I would suggest a very aggressive one with long recovery times, because those treatments will deliver far better results than many “lighter” sessions and yet the body has to recover from one big inflammation versus being in a constant state of new inflammation every week. It’s better to go to a big war once than to have a small war every single day.
I see that you don’t have any sun protection product in the lineup. Will you be making one soon? What’s your ideal idea of sun protection formulation? BT: We are launching many things in this category very soon. The ideal sun protection formula must target UV, visible light, oxy-radicals, carbonyl-radicals, AGE (Advanced Glycation End-products) and pollution at a minimum, because sun protection is just a bad classification– we should have “protection formulas”. I read about NIOD CAIS that focuses on skin’s health and how it addresses the root of the problems. What’s your idea of a healthy skin itself? BT: Healthy skin is skin that can fight the very small things that are always going wrong well. Our cells lose their ability to fight things and this loss leads to signs of ageing (and other things). CAIS supports this fighting ability. Can you share some of your own trueand-tested beauty secrets that is outside of DECIEM offerings? BT: I don’t believe in beauty secrets really. I clean my face with SS and use CAIS every single day. Everything else comes and goes depending on season, my skin changes and on whether I am traveling. When you feel the skin has achieved a good level of health, less becomes more and that itself is probably a secret these days. Now, what are your personal favorites from DECIEM products and why? Feel free to elaborate. I’d love to be enabled! I think we all do. BT: Sanskrit Saponins because it is extremely effective and extremely gentle. It’s also extremely basic and I believe that less is more. Having said this, if I had to choose to travel with only one product, it would be CAIS because my skin has changed so much since this product. With all of these breakthroughs, innovations and different approaches, what’s your limit? Is there anything you won’t try or challenge? BT: You really never know your limit until you reach it. We are working very hard and once day I am sure we will discover what our limit may be.
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WHY EXFOLIATE THE SKIN
BY BRIAN FONG Exfoliating is one of the simplest ways to achieve the fresh and healthy glow of new skin. Removing the top layer of dead skin cells and allowing the new and healthier skin cells to rise to the surface. Simply washing your skin with traditional soap and water isn’t enough. To remove those nasty dead skin cells you will need to exfoliate your skin on a regular basis. There are several reasons that exfoliating is good for your skin. Regular exfoliating gives your skin a more radiant look and a smoother feel. Over time, it can help to reduce the appearance of fine lines and will contribute to your skin’s firmness and tone. It increases the blood circulation in the skin, helps to remove toxins, rids your skin of dry, rough patches, and can even help to break down and lessen the appearance of cellulite, something we would all be grateful not to have. It enhances the effects of daily moisturizing by allowing the moisturizer to penetrate the skin more deeply. Although exfoliating is good for your skin, it should be done in moderation. Depending on the strength of your exfoliating product, most dermatologists recommend that you exfoliate your face one to two times a week and other parts of your body about three times a week.
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The reasons for exfoliating your dead skin cells are compelling but just how do you go about actually doing it. There are such a large variety of products on the market today that it can be quite difficult to decide where to start. First, there are several natural ways to eliminate dead skin cells. One such way is to use sea salts. Simply wet the face, or wherever you’re exfoliating, and apply a couple of tablespoons of sea salt to the dampened area. Using a washcloth or your fingers, gently massage the sea salts into your skin in a circular motion. Continue this for about two or three minutes and rinse with cold water. You can also make your own exfoliating cream by using 2 cups of brown sugar, 1 cup of Olive Oil, and ginger. Apply in the same fashion as mentioned above. The added benefit of these natural exfoliants is they are cost effective. There are multiple products on the market today that you can choose from if going the all-natural route isn’t for you. Most of these exfoliates will contain BHA (Beta Hydroxy Acids) and AHA (Alpha Hydroxy Acids). These are both non-toxic herbal acids that are effective in sloughing off the dead skin cells on the body.
PHOTO BY SANDRA CHILE
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THE SKINCARE BRAND THAT’S ANYTHING BUT ORDINARY: DECIEM’S NEW NAME IS SET TO SHAKE UP THE INDUSTRY BY HAYLEY CARR(LONDONBEAUTYQUEEN.COM)
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As consumers we have a long standing misconception that you get for what you pay for - particularly in skincare. With a new wonder ingredient popping up every few months, often fancy marketing campaigns and complicated names dupe us all into thinking it’s the new-found secret to turning back the clock; whether that’s gold flecks, the poop of a turtle or grass harvested only during a full moon, usually it’s a load of old tosh created to make us part with our cash in the hopes of a better face. Although we can’t actually stop our skin from ageing, there are definitely ways that we can keep it looking plump, fresh, vibrant and radiant for longer; many of the ingredients that we’re told to invest in do genuinely help (Retinol, Vitamin C and Rosehip Oil among others,) but often they command such a high price tag it makes the formulas they reside in prohibitive. Not everyone can afford to spend £30 or £40 on a face cream, but I can bet that every one of us is interested in trying those ingredients that promise to fade away the early mornings. Deciem are a company I have a huge amount of love for, because they’re so focused on creating products that truly work for the masses; none of their products command ridiculous prices and none of them promise things they can’t deliver. With the launch of the newest brand under their name, The Ordinary, they’re set to revolutionise the way we buy and use skincare once again - but this brand is anything but ordinary. The range consists of ten individual and incredibly simple serums that start from as little as £4.90; the most expensive in the range is £12.70. Although they don’t have the most easy to understand names, descriptions or directions, The Ordinary has made hi-tech skincare affordable and achievable no matter your budget. Because the formulas are so simple and the packaging so basic, the prices are kept at a minimum while still making a profit - proving how many skincare products are simply overpriced and over-packaged. Deceim founder Brandon Truaxe explains: “The Ordinary brings to market ingredients that are well known, well proven, but typically overpriced and disguised as ‘new’ innovation. There is nothing ‘luxurious’ or ‘educated’ about overpaying for commodity, no matter how effective that commodity is. Skincare is functional and not about telling stories.”
PHOTO BY DECIEM
Although I disagree with the fact that skincare is simply functional, there’s no doubt that there’s a huge opportunity here and The Ordinary is set to shake things up for the foreseeable future. Looking at the list of products available, even as someone who lives and breathes skincare I’m slightly baffled; this isn’t a range you’ll pop into store and pick up on a whim, but one you’ll research and understand fully before deciding which serums will meet your needs. What’s so exciting is that these little bottles take the ingredients that make a difference and formulate them in such a way that they can be added into any skincare regime with ease; whether you want to layer them, add them into your usual moisturiser or mix and match daily depending what your skin is craving, this is an affordable way of creating a bespoke routine. There is a bottle with your name on it whatever you’re after. I’ve no doubt that some of the big name players will be a little concerned about their super premium ingredients being so accessible, but that’s why I love Deciem so much: they’re a force for good in an industry that’s often really quite wicked. If you’re interested in ‘anti ageing’ type products or skincare in general, I would thoroughly recommend you spend a good hour getting to know the different products and reading their guides on what the ingredients have been proven to achieve; I have my personal favourites (including Buffet, Advanced Retanoid 2% and Hylaronic Acid 2%) but making recommendations isn’t really what The Ordinary is about - it’s about creating a regime that works for you personally. Skincare launches are ten a penny, but this is a brand I’m incredibly excited about and think everyone should try.
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SWEAT-PROOF SUNSCREEN TRICKS THAT WON’T CLOG YOUR PORES BY RENÉE ROULEAU
Layering on heavy, water-resistant sunscreens to ensure they hold up to summer sweat and heat can cause breakouts, bumps and clogged pores. Add the challenge of figuring out exactly which type of sunscreen is best for your acne-prone skin only leaves you majorly confused. Sound familiar? No worries. Read on to learn about my unique layering technique along with sunscreen removal tricks. I developed this to ensure my sunscreen holds up while sweating and swimming—without clogging my pores. For starters, there’s a common misconception that if you’re serious about preventing sun damage and aging smartly, you need to hide indoors and only come out at night. As someone who lives in Austin, a city well known for biking, hiking, and water activities, I can tell you I participate in all of these. But my skin never, ever burns or tans. And guess what? I’m a skin type #2, which means I am oily and occasionally get blemishes. Sunscreens SHOULD clog my pores and break me out. But I’ve discovered a special technique that prevents just that. Step 1. First, use a sunscreen that you know is compatible with your skin. After a thorough cleansing and toning, I always apply an antioxidant vitamin C serum. Vitamins are MUCH needed when you spend time outside. Next, I apply a generous layer of Daily Protection SPF 30 to my face, ears, neck and any other exposed areas. Step 2. Apply a water-resistant, sweat-proof sunscreen. Step 3. Blot the skin. I use a tissue to lightly blot my skin. This removes any surface oil and tackiness that the water-resistant sunscreen might leave behind. Step 4. Apply a water-resistant, physical sunscreen mineral powder. Because I’m so careful with protecting my skin, I add a third layer of sunscreen for even more protection. For this, I pour out mineral powder onto a Toning Cloth or cotton round. I then pat the powder generously on my skin. The idea behind putting on the SPF powder is that it uses titanium dioxide and zinc oxide, which are both physical blockers. (You always want to use a physical sunscreen on top of every other product you use.) Again, these will make the sun’s rays bounce off the skin’s surface. The powder is also slightly tinted, so it evens out my skin tone AND holds up to sweat and water. PHOTO BY ANNIE SPRATT
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In summary, the end result of my layering technique using three sunscreens is that I will get inside-out protection from both chemical and physical sunscreens. These products will hold up with sweating and swimming, and most importantly won’t clog my pores… as long as I remove them properly. Now you get to go enjoy your time outdoors! If you’re going to be outside longer than 80 minutes, which is how long the sunscreens will hold up, the easiest way to reapply is to use the powder as needed. Just keep applying that generously, and it will hold up well with sweating and swimming. In fact, if you’ve applied enough of it, you’ll actually see the water or sweat bead up on your skin while the powder stays fully intact. Note: Because I am recommending to use an SPF of 30, 60 and a 50, this doesn’t mean that the skin is getting an SPF of 140. When it comes to layering sunscreens, the scientific community is unsure as to exactly what SPF number this truly makes or exactly what protection you’re getting. However, it does ensure that you’re protecting every inch of your skin with generous applications and that’s the most important part. How to properly remove sweat-proof sunscreen to prevent blemishes, bumps and clogged pores: Wearing sunscreen to protect your skin from dangerous rays is important, but proper sunscreen removal is also crucial. Especially if you’re a skin type #1, #2, #3, #4, #5 or #6 (clogged-prone skin types), it’s absolutely essential that you clean out pores and use ingredients that will help disrupt the breakout cycle. Step 1. Massage a generous amount of a lightweight cleansing lotion over DRY skin for 60 seconds. Don’t apply water just yet. Then, wet your fingertips, massage through again, repeat and rinse off. Next, and the most important part, is to wipe over the skin with a facial sponge or gentle baby washcloth. You want to really lift off and remove what you have just dissolved. You need to use a cleanser that contains lightweight emollients (oils) because water-resistant sunscreens are not meant to break down with water. Water and oil don’t mix, right? Using a water-based gel or foaming cleanser will simply not draw the sunscreen’s ingredients out of the pores. I suggest avoiding the use of a very oily-based cleanser such as a balm. Balms can leave behind a residue, even if you wipe them off well. This will prevent the next products mentioned from being most effective.
Step 2. *Clear out the pores. You’ll now want to apply a layer of a detox masque. This is a treatment that is unlike most every mask out there in that it removes bacteria from deep within the skin to help prevent potential breakouts. It’s so important that you perform this step as part of the blemish-prevention process to provide a total reset for your face. I like leaving it on for 15minutes. If you’re in a rush, though, it’s been proven to only take 5 minutes to remove acne-causing bacteria. *If you do have extra time, it’s beneficial to exfoliate prior to using the mask to remove any surface dry skin cell debris. This ensures that the mask can really perform its best and penetrate deep within the pore lining. Did your sun spots or freckles show up from a day outside? Even with your skin completely protected, this can occur because HEAT (not just sun exposure) raises the skin’s internal temperature. This then stimulates melanin cells and results in increased pigment. This mask’s amazing benefit is that because it’s gel-based, it naturally retains a cool temperature. When applied, it calms down the heat-activated skin by sending a message to pigment cells to settle down. (You can keep it in the fridge for an extra cooling experience!) The mask also has lots of incredible antiinflammatory, redness and puffiness-reducing properties which greatly benefit the skin. The result is a slowdown of the spots’ appearance. Step 3. Remove cleanser and tap water residue by using a toner. After rinsing off the mask, you now want to apply an alcohol-free toner. This serves to remove chlorine from the skin that’s found in tap water. Then, because your skin’s natural antioxidant supply has been depleted some from being outside (even if you applied a vitamin C serum pre-sun), you’ll want to restore it with essential vitamins. This could include applying a vitamin C serum again, or if it’s later in the day, I’ll use a overnight serum. Step 4. Lastly, apply a lightweight oil-free lotion. The skin is now left feeling impeccably fresh and properly cleaned. You won’t have to worry about a post-sunscreen backlash of clogged pores, bumps, and blemishes. This is process works really well for my sensitive skin and I hope you find it works for yours, too.
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PILLOWS: HOW THEY CAN BE HARMING (AND HELPING!) YOUR SKIN
BY RENÉE ROULEAU You spend approximately 2,500 hours per year spent curled up with it, so good decisions matter depending on your skin concerns and what you’re looking to prevent or improve. If you have sallow, tired-looking skin… you’ll want to sleep on a single pillow that is thinner with a low elevation. The theory here is that during the daytime hours, you’re in an upright position for 16 hours and the blood can move away (downward) from the face making the skin look pale and tired in people who are genetically prone to this. So at night, you want to have your head as flat as possible to re-balance that flow and stimulate circulation to the face to give an inner glow. It’s also why I suggest doing this trick three minutes a day. If you have deep wrinkles that run from the nostril to the corner of the mouth… you’ll want to sleep on your back. Or if you’re a side sleeper, position your head on the lower corner of your pillow. The theory here is that to prevent the deep creases, you want to avoid a squishing of the cheeks, which only exacerbates these lines that come naturally with age due to smiling and laughing.
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If you have deep horizontal wrinkles across your neck…you’ll want to sleep on only one pillow that is thinner with a low elevation. The theory here is that if your head is elevated while you sleep, you are creasing the skin by having your head tilted in a downward position. If you have chest wrinkles above your breasts…you’ll want to sleep on your back. Known as “cleavage wrinkles”, these are deep, vertical creases caused by sleeping on your side, where gravity forces the top breast to bend farther past the body’s midline than it should. Sleeping on your back is the best option for preventing these but if you’re a side sleeper, there are all sorts of various pillows and gadgets that have been invented to solve this problem, which occurs more often in larger-breasted women. If you’re prone to breakouts…When sleeping on your pillowcase for 7-8 hours a night, you are transferring a lot of oil from both your hair and face onto the pillowcase. Oil ends up on your face when you sleep on your stomach or side. And because oil breeds bacteria which then leads to breakouts, it only makes sense that you’d want to sleep on a clean pillowcase every night.
PHOTO BY NOMAO SAEKI
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JOURNALISTS: CHERYL WISCHHOVER, MARTA, ROSE-ANN CULLEN, KAE PRATIWI, HAYLEY CARR, MARILYNN SYRETT, VIJAY RAISINGHANI, SILVIA ROSSE. AYESHA MUTTUCUMARU, RENÉE ROULEAU, BRIAN FONG PHOTOGRAPHERS: ISABELL WINTER(COVER), DECIEM.COM, NICK KARVOUNI, TANJA HEFFNER, DREW GRAHAM, SANDRA CHILE, CHRISTOFFER ENGSTRÖM, ANNIE SPRATT, NOMAO SAEKI