TFN_28

3 feb- 17 feb 2011, Suppl. N.28

www.theflorencenewspaper.com

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page 14

The Cocktail Culture in Italy

Siena, a Medieval Gem

Living like a Local

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Go Big or Go Home OR COL P MA E D INSI

The Florence Newspaper’s guide for new study abroad students Brigid Brennan

If you are reading this article, chances are that you have already landed at the airport, unpacked your bags at your new apartment, met a few people in your study abroad program and seen the land of “Bella Italia” with your own eyes. Maybe you have even already visited a few historical places in the city, and emailed a hundred questions to your advisor.

These are good starts, but what you need is advice from students who have been through it before, who know the city, and who want to help you have the best study abroad experience possible while here in Florence. This article will teach you the basics, like living in the city, saving money, maximizing your time and about traveling in Tuscany.

continued on page 6

The Duomo is in Good Health Monitoring of Brunelleschi’s masterpiece reveals significant data The Society of Santa Maria del Fiore, in accordance with the Architectural and Landscape Heritage Office of Florence and Pistoia, held a meeting of international experts from January 19th to the 20th at the OPA Art and Culture Center in Florence to present for the first time data from the past 60 years of monitoring Brunelleschi’s dome.

Since 1952, the dome of Florence has been subjected to a complex monitoring system that controls width variation of the main cracks in the structure and thus aims at preventing further damage. In 1978, the Ministry of Culture installed an additional digital system, which can be regarded thanks to the recent extension of monitoring

to the aisles of the cathedral, the Baptistery and Giotto’s bell tower – as the most accurate monitoring system of a monumental complex existing today.

The data collected during this period constitutes a valuable standard of knowledge that can reveal not only the normal behavior of the dome, but also its response

Claudia Niemann to various special events suffered during the time period, such as several small earthquakes and the construction of the scaffolding (1978 – 1996), which was necessary for the restoration of the frescoes inside.

continued on page 3

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“A Guide to the City” is the bi-weekly supplement to www.theflorencenewspaper.com.

The newspaper is distributed throughout the city of Florence in all key reference points for the English speaking community including hotels and hostels, universities and language schools, libraries, restaurants and cafes.

Contact us at

info@theflorencenewspaper.com

Tel: 0559061542

CONTENTS FLORENCE NEWS 2-4 NATIONAL NEWS 5 LIVING IN THE CITY 6 CITY GUIDE 7-10 FOOD & WINE 11 FLORENCE HISTORY 12 STYLE & ENTERTAINMENT 13 TRAVEL 14 SPORT 15

STAFF Editor in Chief (Direttore Responsabile)

Lorenzo Picchi direttore@theflorencenewspaper.com Managing Editor

Erich Schrader Writers ERICH SCHRADER, CLAUDIA NIEMANN Contributors

Brigid Brennan Joy Huang Dominic Brucciani Marissa Knox Jessica Card Stacey Rosenlund Vincent Tacchi Georgia Leffe Layout and Design

Tonka Raycheva- Art Director wInternship Stefan Valchanov Narine Nalbandyan

Photography

Stefan Valchanov Marketing Maganer

Denis Jusufbegovic Advertising

Alessandro Cerri

Printed at Nuova Cesat SRL Via B. Buozzi 21| 50145 Firenze Registered at the Tribunale di Firenze No. 5512, 08/08/2006

Florence News

A “Doodle” for Fellini Google honors Italian filmmaker’s birthday with unique animation

Claudia Niemann

In its unique style, Google recently paid homage to legendary Italian film director and scriptwriter Frederico Fellini. On January 20th, the 92nd anniversary of Fellini’s birth in 1920, the search engine celebrated by presenting a doodle in black and white, depicting the maestro in his element: formally dressed and behind the camera. Its reels formed two letters of the Google logo in Art Nouveau-style. qGoogle often creates “doodles” as a means of honoring birthdays and anniversaries of historic people and events that have helped shape the world, from artists like Andy Warhol and Leonardo da Vinci to musicians such as John Lennon and Freddie Mercury.

In recent years, hundreds of doodles have been designed for all countries to celebrate the events and anniversaries that reflect the unique personality of Google, although this particular one was the second Fellini-linked doodle within the last two months, including when his longtime companion, composer Nino Rota, was honored on December 3rd, 2011.

Previously, doodles were dedicated

to sculptor Gio’ Pomodoro (November 17), writer Italo Calvino (October 15) and Renaissance artist and art historian Giorgio Vasari (July 30), as well as to the Republic Day and the week of culture (April 9).

Fellini died in 1993 after a long career including classics like “La Dolce Vita” (1960), “Eight and a Half” (1963) and “Amarcord” (1973). Not only did he win four

Best Foreign Film Oscars, but contemporary filmmakers such as Woody Allen, David Lynch and Martin Scorsese have also emphasized Fellini’s influence on their work.

Thus on January 20th, 2012, Google had creatively called for remembering one of the most influential filmmakers of the 20th century.

Keep it Clean

Volunteer effort aims at getting people involved to help clean up the city Joy Huang

Florence is an incredibly beautiful as well as a historically and culturally rich city. Whether it’s your home town that you’ve lived in your entire life or simply your host city, love it and it will love you back.

The Angeli del Bello Volunteer Project is a collaboration between the Municipality of Florence, the Florentine waste management company, Quadrifoglio, and the students and staff at the Florence University of the Arts that seeks to sensitize people and remind them of the need to protect and preserve the beauty of this city.

This project allows different people living in Florence to come together and serve together as a community. Volunteer opportunities include cleaning and picking up in green areas, gardens, playgrounds, in front of churches, streets, main squares, covering wall tags and graffiti and distributing sustainability information.

By actively cleaning up the countless cigarette butts on the street, picking up the broken pieces of glass bottles and other pieces of trash scattered around the beautiful piazzas, volunteers hope to catch the attention of both locals and tourists and motivate them to do the same. The hope is to invoke curiosity, to have people come up to the volunteers and ask them what they’re doing and why they’re doing it and to have others join in and carry on the practice of maintaining this town.

The purpose of this project is to incite change in the city. Participants of the Angeli del Bello Volunteer Project hope to lead

by example and be an influence in the city.

The goal is to encourage people to be active and enthusiastic about loving this city and taking care of it.

The students and staff at the Florence University of the Arts meet every last Wednesday of each month to clean Piazza Santa Croce as an expression of appreciation to the city that has so warmly welcomed

them. Don’t miss these wonderful opportunities to engage and serve with the Florentine community. Your active contribution can really make a difference and help maintain the beauty and charm of Florence.

Email studentservices@florencecampus. it for more information about volunteering with FUA!

Florence News

The Duomo is in Good Health

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Monitoring of Brunelleschi’s masterpiece reveals significant data continued from oage 1 Claudia Niemann

The purpose of the conference was to evaluate information obtained from longterm monitoring and to collate with other international experiences. The results will be used in order to find more accurate ways for protecting the dome.

Participants, in charge of monitoring systems for the largest and most important domes of masonry in the world - such as Hagia Sophia in Istanbul, St. Peter in the Vatican, St. Paul's Cathedral in London, Hôtel National des Invalides in Paris - and those responsible for the inspection of other monuments like the Cathedral of Palma de Mallorca, the churches of San Marco, the Frari in Venice and the Tower of Pisa, gathered in Florence to present their experiences and contribute to the debate.

Furthermore, Japanese experts presented an experiment, held in Parma, that temporarily controls the hoops of the great dome of the 17th century church called “Our Lady of the Quarter.”

wThe conference has shown proof of the relevance of historical monitoring, as it successfully demonstrated that the width of the main cracks seem to have settled during the last few decades on “very low values,” and that if they remain stable, it should not pose a threat for future centuries. These encouraging results suggest not only the continuation of monitoring, but also an optimistic forecast for one of the city's most recognized landmarks.

Nothing but the Best Florence ranked top European city for tourists

GYMNASIUM FITNESS CENTER

Erich Schrader

According to a recent research survey posted by the travel magazine Conde Nast Traveler’s web site, the Tuscan capital city has been chosen by readers as the top tourist city in all of Europe.

The survey included the feedback from more than 28 thousand responses regarding the top tourist destinations in Europe and was conducted by the Boston-based Global Market Insite, Inc. According to the survey, Florence narrowly beat out Barce-

lona, which placed second, followed closely

by Rome and Paris (in that order.)Those who took part in the survey were asked to rate each of the cities on sic major criteria, ranking each of them on a scale of one to five.

The categories that respondents were asked included the environment, friendliness, hospitality, food, culture and shopping. The final scores took all six categories into consideration before ranking.

Fully equipped gym Fitness courses • Sauna • Solarium

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Florence News

The Forte Belvedere Cable Way City officials in planning stages for Florence’s first cable car Erich Schrader

Thanks to recent financial contributions, it would appear that the wheels are finally in motion to construct a cable way connecting San Niccolò and the Forte di Belvedere which could, at least in theory, be completed by 2013.

The possibility of implementing a cable car connecting the nearly 500 meter gap and running from city level into the surrounding hills has been discussed in the past, but it now appears that the city is ready to back up their talk with a financial commitment.

The proposed system calls for the creation of a cable way linking San Niccolò with the Forte di Belvedere. According to the city, there is an investment sum of 1.5 million euro ready to help finance the project and to make the vision a reality.

The investment is being financed in part by the banking institution Ente Cassa di Risparmio di Firenze, with the sum of a half a million euro being made available within the next three years. The other one million euro necessary to complete the project is to be submitted by the city council of Florence, the Palazzo Vecchio.

The Comune di Firenze is in charge of bringing the project to fruition and is currently in the stages of creating the final design for the cable way system. If all goes according to the city’s plans, projections indicate that the project could be completed by sometime in 2013 before the mayoral and administrative elections for the city.

Several different design proposals have been made, including an escalator-esque de-

sign and one which utilizes a cable car-rack system. There have also been several different suggestions regarding the route that the cable car should take.

Several local politicians, including Assessor Eugenio Giani, have been pushing for the creation of such a cable way for some time now, and with it the city hopes to better facilitate tourists’ desires to visit sites in the hills outside of the city center, including attractions such as the Forte di Belvedere, the garden of the Museo Bardini and the stronghold of Geneva. According to the city, the idea is to create a fast, convenient and environmentally friendly way both to reach the historic sites as well as to do so in a way that displays spectacular views of Florence.

Both the Forte di Belvedere and the San

Niccolò Tower were, until recently, closed to the public for various reasons. Both have since been reopened, the most recent being San Niccolò this past June after a 300,000 euro restoration project.

The Forte di Belvedere was built during the late 16th century by Grand Duke Ferdinando I de’ Medici and was originally designed

by Bernardo Buontalenti. The structure was originally designed as a fortification for a variety of reasons, including the protection the city’s historic center and the city’s center of government, the Pitti Palace, as well as to demonstrate the power of the ruling Medici family.

Comfort Food

A local beats the weather with Tuscan favorites Dominic Brucciani When winter drags on, when the rain and snow take the spring out of your step and the sky is full of clouds, the place to be is where you can find those silver linings. Those crisp, cold sunny days that so illuminated January in Florence have, for today at least, conceded to some miserable February weather. So what good can come of that? The answer for me is in the kitchen. Tuscan food does miserable well. The recipe book of local dishes seems written especially for days when the wind lashes at the windows. It is food that doesn’t tax you in its preparation, that comforts with it’s textures and tastes and is full of a simplicity and honesty that speaks of homes and hearths from the ancient past.

Bread soup, tripe, sausages and beans; cheaply assembled and easily prepared, it is the food of simple folk, sometimes derided by other Italians for its lack of sophistication.

Whereas finer cuisine is full of tricks and techniques that dazzle the pallet, Tuscan food satisfies without amazing. You can see the ingredients on your plate – chunks of carrot and leaves of cabbage. You may be underwhelmed if you like more sorcery in your saucery because a Tuscan chef is like a magician who walks on stage with a hat in one hand and a rabbit in the other, plonks them both on a table and shouts “Tadaaa!”. That inherent simplicity, though, is where it wins in winter; when its wet and windy outside you want a wooly sweater, not a fine suit.

Ribollita and papa al pomodoro are two staples that use the local bread as their base.

Pane Toscano is a strange creature. Unsalted

and somewhat hard even when fresh it gives a fairly unloveable slice and is useless for making sandwiches. What makes it special is how well it cooks. Most breads, when soaked, turn into a gooey mess. Pane Toscano’s molecular simplicity means that it almost dissolves, giving a thickness and flavor that turn a simple broth into a hearty meal.

The word ‘traditional’ hardly begins to describe Ribollita, a dish that has been traced in its current form back to the Etruscans. Although some less well attended lunchtime cafes display dishes of the stuff that look like they themselves may date back to the Etruscans, it is a consistently delicious bowl of food that can get you through the gloomiest of days. Papa al pomodoro was originally considered a housewives’ secret, disposing of a bag of old tomatoes and a loaf of stale bread at the same time; but such humble origins mean nothing when the outcome is so pleasing.

Never mind those who shout about Bistecca alla Fiorentina; a high quality T-bone steak is good the world over. What Florence and Tuscany should be really proud of is the way that they turn the unglamorous cuts, the boring vegetables and the unwanted corners of old bread and create a warmth and nourishment that will keep you happy and fed till you’re a hundred. I’ve never bought into the popular claims of Florentine snobbishness, but if evidence were ever needed of a naturally modest and down to earth people, the menu of you local trattoria undoubtedly provides it.

National News

Fitch Downgrades Italy’s A Tragic Work Credit Rating in Progress American ratings agency drops Italy two points and just a few weeks after Standard & Poor’s rating agency downgraded Italy along with eight other countries including France and Spain.

Standard &Poor’s was part of the same effort launched in southern Italy by Michele Ruggiero, a prosecutor based at Trani. The investigation is examining the possibility that false judgements unduly affected markets.

As is the case with several other countries the world over, Italy’s credit rating has been downgraded by the United States ratings agency Fitch.

Italy was been downgraded two points from an A+ to an A- last week.

The downgrade came after Italian financial police searched the Fitch offices in Milan

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Up to ten months before Costa Concordia can be removed

On Friday, the Milan bourse closed down 1.02% at 15.946 points. The spread between 10-year Italian and German bonds, a measure of Italy’s credibility on the sovereigndebt market, fell to 404 points after briefly dipping below 400. The yield dropped to 5.9%.

ART EXHIBITS IN ITALY photo: Roberto Vongher

GENOA - Palazzo Ducale: Van Gogh and Gauguin’s Journey; American and European masterpieces spanning two centuries, with works by Van Gogh (over 40), Gauguin and various American artists such as Edward Hopper, Andrew Wyeth, Mark Rothko, Richard Diebenkorn and Caspar David Friedrich; until April 15.

MILAN - Brera Gallery: ‘Brera meets the Pushkin, Russian collecting from Renoir to Matisse’; 20 works including Monet, Gauguin, Cezanne and Picasso; until February 5.

- Permanente gallery: From Bacon to the Beatles, New Images in Europe in the Years of Rock; 70 works from the 1950s and ‘60s including Giacometti, Art Brut, Gruppo Cobra, Enrico Bay, Mario Ceroli, Bepi Romagnoni, Mimmo Rotella, Mario Schifani and Emilio Tadini; until February 12.

PADUA - Palazza Zabarella: Symbolism in Italy, 100 works including Pellizza da Volpedo, Morbelli, Casorati, Sartorio, Adolfo De Carolis, Galileo Chini and Gaetano Previati; until February 12.

PALERMO - Reale Albergo dei Poveri: Russian avant-garde movements; until March 20.

ROME - Palazzo Barberini: ‘Guercino 1591-1666, Masterpieces from Cento (his home town) and Rome’, 36 works; until April 29.

- Borghese Gallery: 65 mostly Roman marble works looted by Napoleon back from Louvre, including Borghese Vase, the Sleeping Hermaphrodite (as restored by a young Bernini), Cranach’s Three Graces and the Centaur Ridden by Love; until April 9.

- Quirinale Palace: The History of the Quirinale Palace from Italian Unity to the Present Day; until March 17.

- Palazzo Venezia: Rome In The Time of Caravaggio, 140 works by Caravaggio and his followers from major Italian and international collections, some never shown in Italy; until February 5.

TURIN - Castello di Rivoli: Arte Povera International; until February 19.

VENICE - Accademia: Homage to Lorenzo Lotto, two exceptional loans from Hermitage: Double Portrait of a Married Couple and Madonna with Child and Angels, respectively from the artist’s first and last period; until February 26.

- Punto della Dogana, Francois Pinault Foundation: ‘Praise of Doubt’, 60 works by 20 contemporary giants including Maurizio Cattelan, Jeff Koons, Jeff Bauman, Adel Abdessemed, Marcel Broodthaers, Dan Flavin, Thomas Schutte and Charles Ray; until December 31, 2012.

VERONA - Palazzo della Gran Guardia: Great Veronese 18th-century painting; 150 works including Tiepolo, Bellotto, Rotari, Cignaroli; until April 9.

According to Italian officials, it could take up to an additional ten months to move the wrecked cruise ship that has dominated international headlines for the last few weeks, due in large part because of the necessity to extract the ship’s fuel before it can be safely moved.

Earlier this month on January 13th, the Costa Concordia crashed into a rock off the coast of Isola del Giglio before eventually running aground and capsizing near the shoreline of the western Italian community.

The recent poor weather conditions have made the continued search for victims difficult, and have also resulted in a delay in the fuel draining process, which is aimed at averting an environmental disaster.

Of the 3,229 passengers and 1,023 crew members onboard the ship, all but 33 survived. Divers have so far managed to recover the bodies of 17 victims with the remaining having yet to be found.

The MS Costa Concordia was operated by Costa Crociere, owned by American Carnival Corporation.

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Living In The City

Living like a Local A guide for new study abroad students continued from page1

Keep your eyes open. As well as your ears, nose, mouth, and mind. During your first few weeks here you are bound to be inundated with a flood of new sensations. Try to absorb the new sights, smells, flavors, and attitudes all with an open mind.

Take in all the gorgeous art, architecture, and scenery that Florence has to offer, but also look for hidden secrets.

How many plaques of inscriptions by Dante can you spot? What level did the flood reach in 1966? Have you noticed all the graffiti around? Take side streets and see what you can discover.

Get lost. Then try to find your way back.

The word “dove,” meaning “where,” might prove to be useful while exploring the city. If you get turned around, just look for the golden ball on top of the Duomo and you’ll find your way to the center in no time.

Head to the San Lorenzo Market. If the best way to discover Florence is on foot, the second best way is through your mouth. Check out this indoor market from 7am until 2 pm for fresh fruits, vegetables, cheeses, fish and meats, sweets, and countless other products.

Take advantage of the treasures of Tuscany. Although you might be tempted to fill your calendar with trips to foreign countries every weekend, especially if this is your first time to Europe, Tuscany is brimming with beautiful cities, countryside, mountains, beaches, and vineyards. While you are here, explore how charming and diverse each city is.Make an effort to speak the language. It is almost too easy to get around in Florence knowing the bare minimum of Italian.

Mostly everybody working or living here has knowledge of the English language, and all too often store clerks will respond to you in English if they can tell you are American. Stay persistent though, and insist on responding in Italian.

Pick up a newspaper, magazine, or brochure in Italian. See how much you can figure out on your own, then use a dictionary to look up words you don’t know.

Order a dish from an Italian menu.

By Brigid Brennan

Don’t be afraid to ask! “Come si dice...”

(How do you say…)?

Meet locals. The number one piece of advice for students trying to learn the language is to meet locals! A lot of former study abroad students wish they hadn’t waited so long to meet and talk with local people. This can be the best part of your experience because you learn so much, but it is up to you to make the first steps.

Watch your spending. Europe can be expensive, and it’s easy to spend a lot without realizing it. Keep an eye on the exchange rate, and try to save money where possible.

Cheap eats.If you haven’t tried aperitivo yet, get out there and try it. Lots of places around town set out a light buffet to accompany your drink starting around 7 pm. All you have to do is show up, order a drink, and you can munch on an array of dishes before starting your night.

For used books and textbooks, stop into the Paperback Exchange, the AngloAmerican bookstore just behind the Duomo on ViadelleOche. All the books are in English, and the staff is really friendly and willing to help you find books for your classes.

Book trips in advance. If you’re not that into planning but still want to travel, check into package deals from places local tour groups. Otherwise, keeping an eye on special promotions on Ryanair. com can provide really cheap airfare. If you book one or two months in advance, airfare can be significantly lower.

Mindset and perspective.Experiencing a foreign culture can do a lot to change your outlook, both on yourself and on the world. While you are here, expect to be challenged: linguistically, intellectually, socially, etc. You may be forced to leave behind old habits, attitudes, and assumptions. Be prepared for a radical transformation, but only if you are willing to fully immerse yourself in your current experience. You are all adventurous travelers who have embarked on a journey of learning, changing, growing.

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INTERNATIONAL RESTAURANTS

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Map of

SHOPPING 1 MARIA MARUSCHKA 2 BARBERINO DESIGNER OUTLET

BEAUTY 3 HAIR FORCE 4 GYMNASIUM FITNESS CENTER

TRAVEL & TOURS 5 EUROAVENTURES

SERVICES 6 TIM CELL PHONES & INTERNET 6

EATING OUT 7 THE DINER 8 IL CANTINONE

2

9 AQUA AL 2 10 L’ANTICO TRIPPAIO 11 LO SDRUCCIOLO

21

12 DANNY ROCK

33

13 ENOTECA POZZO DIVINO

4

14 TORRE 69

22

15 LO SFIZIO 16 MOMOYAMA SUSHI BAR 17 HOUSE OF SIZZLE 18 RUTH’S 30

19 GELATERIA DELLA PASSERA 20 GELATERIA DEI NERI

NIGHT LIFE

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21 THE JOSHUA TREE PUB 22 THE FIDDLER’S ELBOW/IRISH PUB 23 ONE EYED JACK 24 RED GARTER

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31 8 1

25 FLET AMERICAN BAR 19

26 KITSCH AMREICAN BAR 27 KITSCH DEUX 28 ZOE 29 MOYO 30 COLLE BERETO 31 DOLCE VITA 32 SLOWLY 33 SPACE CLUB 34 BLOB CLUB 35 MONTECARLA CLUB

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Florence

9

CHECK FOR LOCATION DESCRIPTIONS IN THE GUIDE

27

6

15

18

26 10

12 13

9 7

3

17 24 29

34 20

35

28

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MAX 15 MINUTES WALKING TO THE DESTINATIONS FROM DUOMO

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A Look Back

The Wheel Still Turns Istituto degli Innocenti carries on the centuries old mission of the Guild of Silkworkers Anna Bisaro

For centuries women sat alone, keeping watch by the window, waiting to hear a baby cry. All day and all night, the women of the Instituto degli Innocenti took turns keeping watch, waiting. The sound of the cry and the turn of the wheel would announce the arrival of a new guest at the institute, another child to be welcomed inside the walls of an institute that has been a home for hundreds of abandoned children.

For almost eight centuries the Istituto degli Innocenti has been dedicated to protecting the children of Florence. While the institute is no longer an orphanage for abandoned children, it carries on a similar mission inside the same walls and courtyards that has been a home for children throughout the city’s history.

In response to demands from the community, the Florentine Republic named the Guild of Silkworkers the caretakers of the city’s lost children in 1294. Mothers who had bore children out of wedlock and did not have the means or ability to support them, left their children in the care of the guild.

The guild worked for more than 100 years before they turned to Filippo Brunelleschi and asked him to design a building for their children.

Brunelleschi, the same architect that designed the dome of the Basilica di Santa Maria Novella, began overseeing construction of the Instituto degli Innocenti in 1419.

A true symbol of the Renaissance, the first column of Brunelleschi’s mini city for the children was raised on Jan 21, 1421.

The new completed institute welcomed its first child, a girl named Agata Smeralda, at 1pm on Feb 5, 1445. That first year in the institute, the guild welcomed

90 babies into their care. For more than 200 years, children were placed in a small holy water basin under a window on the ride side of the institute where a woman sat on watch, waiting to hear a baby’s cry. Then, in 1660, a large stone wheel was placed on the left side of the building and the mother would then turn the wheel, sending the child into the care of the institute. Mothers placing children the wheel was supposed to remove some of the shame from the act of having to leave behind one’s child because they could not care for it.

The women of the Istituto degli Innocenti cared for the orphans and educated them. Wet nurses, mostly from outside of the institute, first cared for the children and then farmers were paid to adopt and raise many of the young boys. Of the young children that remained in the institute’s care, many of the children, particularly the girls, grew up to marry, enter a life of service to the church, or stayed to serve the institute by helping the children that came in after them. The women of the institute helped the abandoned children find legal guardians, but also began providing women’s services for those who needed help in caring for their children. This routine went uninterrupted until the changing times, traditions, and norms of Florence culture called for an adaptation in the goals of the institute. In 1971 the Istituto degli Innocenti ceased to be an orphanage and transformed to what it is today.

The wheel has disappeared from outside the church but the Istituto degli Innocenti is still dedicated to protecting the children of Florence by helping both children and their caregivers. The institute itself does not decide which cases to take on, but helps an average of 10 to 15 families at a time,

much smaller numbers compared to the hundreds of children that played in those courtyards for several centuries.

Today, the Instituto degli Innocenti follows the guidelines established by the UN Convention of the Rights of the Child in 1989. Caring, educating, and helping those who struggle to provide for their children remains the most important mission for the institute today. However, this is just one

objective. The building houses old art work that needs restoration, the grounds must be kept up, there are women’s services and activities, three kindergarten classes host up to 200 children and researchers in the UNICEF library investigate children’s rights issues among other things. With their work today, the Instituto degli Innocenti remains the oldest public institution in Italy dedicated to protecting children.

Style & Entertainment

Baby, it’s Cold Outside A guide to your winter accessories

We’ve all begun to feel the temperature drop, and as the rain begins to fall harder and the winds blow stronger, it would be good to have a few scarves and gloves on hand to not only keep you warm but also to accessorize your winter wear.

It’s not difficult to find scarves, gloves and other winter accessories during the cold seasons, but it’s definitely challenging to find the ones that will give you the most bang for your buck and survive well over time. When shopping for such items, there are some things to which you should pay particular attention. Material, size and design are some key elements to consider before making your purchase.

Material matters, so instead of settling for cheaper products made of polyester, acrylic, rayon or acetate and are chemically treated and are a source of toxins that can both negatively affect your health and the health of our planet, opt for natural fibers like cotton, silk, wool or cashmere. Not only will they feel nicer and be more comfortable to wear, but they will keep you a lot warmer.

Here in Florence, we’re lucky to have some of the finest quality fabrics, making it incredibly easy to find assortments of cashmere, wool and cashmere-wool blends.

When it comes to cashmere and wool or lambswool, cashmere is generally softer and warmer. But depending on the quality, some wool blends can be nicer than cheap cashmere. Silk and cotton are two less expensive options but won’t keep you as warm. Cashmere and wool scarves may seem expensive and overpriced, but the quality is what gives it value and makes it superior to others. Soft but strong, these raw materials will make your scarves last a long time and in the long run, they will prove to be wise investments.

You might not have taken into consideration the length and nap of scarves, but these seemingly minor details can make a significant difference. Not all scarves are the same width or length so be sure to try them on to make sure they match the size of your body. The nap refers to the fibers, threads, weave and surface of the material so consider that if a scarf is of a rougher material then that will make it harder to tie as well.

Now for the fun part: picking out colors and patterns. Although there are several holidaythemed printed patterns out right now, it’s usually better to choose simpler ones that will complement the rest of your wardrobe.

Think about your winter coats and jackets at home. What colors and secondary colors will best match what you already have?

Keeping things simple with solid colors will allow you to pair them with a greater variety of pieces. However, prints such as plaids, stripes and even polka dots are also easy to wear, match and don’t get too tiresome to look at. For those of you who want to show off your holiday spirit, scarves in Fair Isle will do the trick.

Bringing iPad and comb together Georgia Leefe

Do you want to be able to check your emails while you have a trim, or sip a glass of Chianti whilst your hair is slowly transformed from root to tip?

This is all possible at Via Ghibellina, number 75.

Since the early 80’s, hair specialist Giuseppe Scollo, stage name ‘Joe,’ has been implementing his expertise on a wide variety of clients for decades. He became aware that many of his clients, ranging from fashion students to professionals, have little free time to spare. Consequently, he decided to introduce innovative ways of maximizing their hairdressing experience.

The business keeps late Monday night hours and offers aperitivo until 10pm, and with the emergence of the internet, Joe decided to offer clients internet access. Each customer is presented

with an iPad when they arrive so they can surf the web whilst having their hair carefully rearranged.

With years of working experience in Italy and a stint in London, Scollo is undoubtedly talented in his ability to provide clients with an exceptional cut at an honest price as well as an unforgettable experience. His most recent endeavour is to create a library within the salon offering a range of foreign literature and various volumes on design.

Clients have the possibility to borrow items as well as designing their own creations. Those that bring their designs to the salon have a 10% discount on their next cut. Innovative, eccentric and talented, Hair Force is definitely worth a visit for a truly unique hair experience.

Likewise, when looking for gloves it’s best to avoid acrylic and synthetic fabrics. While you’re at it, add cotton to that list. Though it may serve well for scarves, it’s not a good material for gloves. Cashmere and wool may or may not work depending on how tightly they’re knit. The best option would be leather gloves. Not only are they durable and fashionable but also warmer, especially if you get a pair with the inside lined with cashmere or silk. As one of the leather capitals of the world, Florence is the perfect place to get a pair of leather gloves.

Keep in mind that there are many different kinds of leathers and each type of skin will give a different appearance.

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Joy Huang

As with scarves, solid colors will be easier to fit into your wardrobe. A good tactic is to pair the color of your gloves with that of your shoes. It will ensure that your gloves compliment your ensemble but not come off as too matchy-matchy. Black and brown are the two safest and most versatile colors that can never go wrong, but other such as dark green or maroon can add more interest and character to your outfit.

Take your time in choosing these things and consider the suggestions listed above and you’ll be ready to take on the cold in style.

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Florence History

Frescos of the Brancacci Chapel Church displays works of early Renaissance masters

Masaccio’s Adam and Eve exude

despair as they pass through the Gates of Paradise. Looking on with apparent indifference, calm, and elegance from across the Brancacci Chapel, Masolino’s Adam and Eve reveal a difference not only in the emotions expressed by the figures, but by the style of the painting itself.

Nestled in a side chapel of the

Church of Santa Maria del Carmine, one of the plainest and most humble facades in Florence, the Brancacci Chapel, in contrast, offers a splendid glimpse at the work of three influential early Renaissance artists - Masaccio, Masolino da Panicale, and Filippino Lippi (not to be confused with his father, Fra Filippo Lippi). Though the frescoes present a unified theme depicting the life and actions of St. Peter, each artist brought his own touch to the frescoed chapel.

I will always argue that knowing

the history or background of a piece of art or place heightens the experience; while viewing the Brancacci Chapel, I reinforced this point to myself. Commissioned by the successful merchant family, the Brancacci, in 1424, the elder Masolino brought in a

young Masaccio to assist him. As the two artists worked side by side in the chapel, the younger painter influenced his elder.

Masaccio is attributed with the “reinvention” of perspective, and on his “side” of the chapel (Masaccio frescoed the left wall, while Masolino, and later Lippi, decorated the right) he introduced a novel idea to permanent decoration; he depicted the scenes as the pious viewer would actually view it, looking up at the paintings from below. A simple enough concept, but one which apparently evaded previous artists. Additionally, he “used” the light from the chapel window to illuminate the frescoes, rather than a mysterious, all-encompassing frontal illumination.

Simple genius, if you ask me.

Recognizing the value of Masac cio’s innovations, Masolino incorporated Masaccio’s attention to perspective in parts of his work, though the lighting technique does not appear. Besides a difference in methods, one cannot help but notice the contrast in the faces of Adam and Eve on the right, pre-expulsion wall versus the left, post-expulsion wall. Perhaps some, like myself at one point, find Masaccio’s version less

than beautiful - certainly Eve’s wailing face and Adam’s slumped figure do not appeal to the eye as do the pristine and elevated versions across from them, like runway models of the fifteenth century. However, they do appeal to the emotions. There is no doubt of the anguish the two disgraced figures feel; they express true human emotions to which we can empathize, if not relate, in contrast to Masolino’s distant and unapproachable couple.

One more fun fact for the interested

viewer: Both Masaccio and Lippi painted themselves into the frescoes, so for a glimpse at the men behind the masterpieces, look for the faces staring out from the artwork. Masaccio looks soberly out of the fresco in the lower right corner of his “St. Peter Enthroned” (left wall, bottom right fresco), cloaked in red, while Lippi avoids watching the crucifixion of St. Peter (right wall, bottom center), by meeting the eye of the audience with his clear gaze. When Masolino departed for Hungary in 1426, leaving the cathedral unfinished, Masaccio took his place until also leaving Florence for Rome, where he mysteriously died in 1428. After the Brancacci family

Jessica Card

fell into political disfavor, representations of the family in the frescoes were destroyed, and over fifty years after Masaccio’s final brush stroke, in 1481, Lippi finished where the previous two artists left off.

Perhaps anyone less than an art

enthusiast will say this is too much information, but when you step into the chapel for your 15-minute window (all the time that is officially allowed, though during my visit this was not strictly enforced) look for the details which make those fleeting moments in front of five hundred-year-old masterpieces a little more enlightening and enjoyable. Those details, and all the rest found throughout Florence and Italy, are the elements that embody the evolution of Renaissance art. If you don’t notice or don’t care, sit back and enjoy the colors and the scenes - the visit is still worth your time.

Hours: Daily 10 - 17, closed Thursday Location: Church of Santa Maria del Carmine, on Piazza del Carmine in the Oltrarno

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Food & Wine

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The Cocktail Culture in Italy Experiencing the Italian aperitivo

In the heart of vineyards and wine production, the Tuscan region is unanimously known for its authentic and highly esteemed red and white wine selection. However, beyond the romantic world of wine lies a wide assortment of cocktails characteristic to Italian culture. Although Cosmopolitans, Rum and Coke, Long Islands, Vodka Redbulls and Sex on the Beach are offered almost anywhere alcoholic drinks are served, it can be a taste-expanding experience to discover and try the beverages particular to Italy including Negroni, Spritz and Americano.

Iconic Italian cocktails feature distinctive ingredients including Aperol, Campari and Vermouth. Typically drank before dinnertime, these cocktails contain flavors that stimulate the appetite and therefore are perfect for Italian aperitivo. In Italy, aperitivo is a cultural and social activity common throughout the young adult population. The socializing atmosphere in mixture of some light-tasting cocktails and pre-dinner snacks attracts crowds of 20 – 30 year olds almost every night of the week. Typically peanuts and chips are provided with the drink. Yet depending on where, aperitivo spots can provide enough food to be considered a full

meal all included in the price of a cocktail, costing around 8 or 9 euro.

Negroni, Spritz and Americano are quintessential Italian aperitif intended to whet the palate. The three cocktails can share the similar ingredient of Campari, but are also offered with some minor variations.

Americano is made with half Campari, half sweet Vermouth and soda water with lemons as a garnish. It was originally served in Gaspare Campari’s café in Milan and called the Milano-Turino cocktail in reference to the Campari from Milan and Vermouth from Turin. However, the increased popularity this drink took with American tourists changed its name to Americano. In 1919 when Count Camillo Negroni was at the Caffè Casoni (now Caffè Giacosa) here in Florence, he wanted to order his Americano drink a little bit stronger.

The bartender decided to add gin instead of soda water and an orange instead of a lemon to distinguish that this was a different drink. The cocktail was so well received that the Negroni family founded a Negroni Distillery in Treviso, Italy that same year where they produced ready-made drinks called Antico Negroni. Currently there

Marissa Knox

are three different variations of the Negroni cocktail. The first was invented in Milan and is called the Negroni Sbagliato, which literally means the “wrong Negroni” where Spumante Brut (dry sparkling white wine) is substituted for gin. The Negroski is a version with vodka instead of gin and lastly the Sparkling Negroni has the same main three parts—gin, Campari and Vermouth— plus Champagne or Prosecco and sometimes an orange twist. Spritz cocktail is another popular choice for aperitivo including 1 oz Aperol, 2 oz Prosecco and seltzer. For those who prefer a more bitter flavor, Campari can

be used instead of the sweeter and lighter choice of Aperol.

Venturing away from the standard American drinks that are ubiquitously available can be a rewarding and delicious change. Aside from Negroni, Spritz and Americano there are an assortment of other Italian cocktails offered wherever drinks or aperitivo are available. When visiting or living in Italy being immersed in its culture goes beyond learning the language and seeing the sights, but also adopting the lifestyle, which includes experiencing the aperitivo and Italian cocktails.

Il Cantinone A local favorite keeps it traditional Georgia Leefe

Concealed beneath a door the size of a match box, Il Cantinone is literally an Aladdin’s cave of Tuscan delights served with passion and care by the three Calabrian brothers that run it.

A local favorite, this is not a typical tourist destination, and is comprised of two long cellars dating back from the 1400s.

One feels completely at ease in this intimate and private environment, protected by its ancient walls that tell their own tale of past feuds, trials and tribulations that occurred centuries ago.

An array of typical Tuscan dishes, such as the famous ‘trippa alla fiorentina’ (Florentine tripe), winter vegetable soup ‘La Ribollita’, mixed ‘crostini’ as well as the sumptuous ‘galleto alla Livornese’ (baby chicken baked in the Livornian style), there is not a dish that should be left untested.

To add to the atmosphere, one can hear the infectious cackle of the Florentine chef Michele as he prepares his dishes with aplomb and whose toothy grin and distinctive frame only combine

to make one’s dining experience truly Italian. A vast collection of rare wines adorn the walls of the other vault, tucked away in crevices that can only be revealed should you persuade the owners to unlock its doors.

Not to be missed also is the occasional calabrian dish that is added to the menu, such as the explosive ‘N’duja’ pasta, (a southern peppery paste made of pigs lard and chili) which offers an original taste of Southern flavors. A treasure in and of itself, this is without a doubt my favorite restaurant in the city and is a genuine example of a place untouched by modernity, a restoration of past traditions and a true passion for authentic Tuscan cuisine.

Il Cantinone is located at Via Santo Spirito, 6r; opposite side of the river from the Duomo, cross Il Ponte Santa Trinita and take the second street on your right.

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Travel

Siena, a Medieval Gem Visit the historic city for an authentic Tuscan experience Stacey Rosenlund

I hopped on the plane back in January and headed to Europe for the first time carrying with me a suitcase, advice from friends and some pretty high expectations.

For months I had been dreaming about the typical Italian experience: beautiful blue skies, ancient buildings of all different colors, country vineyards at sunset, century old art, delicious gelato, local wine and a whole lot of pizza, pasta, and bread.

I spent my first two weeks here in the small Tuscan town of Siena, about an hour southwest of Florence. I couldn’t have chosen a better place to begin my semester abroad.

Situated inside its gorgeous medieval walls, Siena is located on a hill top overlooking 360 degrees of Tuscan countryside.

When you arrive, head to La Fortezza, Siena’s military fort, to catch a glimpse of the city’s history and its best view. If you’re up for it, you can also pay eight euro to climb the tower in Il Campo, Siena’s central piazza, referred to by locals simply as La Piazza.

Siena is most famous for Il Palio, its famous horse

race that occurs twice each summer in Il Campo. Locals gather in the piazza, engulfed by bars and restaurants, to celebrate with one another and cheer on the jockeys who ride bareback on the horses. The crowd starts to pour in around 1:30 p.m. Grab a cheap piece of pizza or a cone from one of Il Campo’s many gelaterias, and head out to sunbathe during the afternoon siesta.

One of my favorite things to do in Siena was to simply just walk. I encourage you to get lost; it’s the best way to see the city. Walk through Siena’s hilly streets with no agenda, and I promise you’ll find a full day ahead of you.

One morning I turned a corner and stumbled upon The Duomo, a magnificent cathedral built in 1215. Another afternoon, I went on a jog and found a playground and park near Siena’s main gate overlooking the Tuscan valley. The best shops are on small side streets. Merchants open their workshops and fresh fruit overflows onto the narrow sidewalks.

Soon dinner comes and it’s time to head back to Il Campo for a long, traditional Italian meal. If you choose to eat outside on a chilly night heaters will keep you warm

underneath the awnings. The open-air atmosphere can’t be beat.

I fell in love with La Preferita, a tiramisu crepe from La Birreria. Order one from Rosa, the sweet owner, and you’ll become a believer yourself.

If the weather isn’t great, go to Due Porte for its local atmosphere and delicious pasta dishes. My favorites were La Penne di Casa or La Primavera. For dessert get their Nutella pizza and a bottle of Moscato, their famous sparkling dessert wine.

I love Siena for their commitment to tradition and for their classic open-armed Italian welcome. I truly felt like I was in the 17th century as I explored its winding streets.

The laundry lines hanging above have a way of relaxing all those who pass by as they whip in wind.

Spending a day in this city is a quiet breath of fresh air.

There are no worries, no schedules, and no pressures in this archaic, little town.

Grab a few friends, catch the bus and just go. Visiting Siena is that low-key adventure off the beaten path that you’ve been looking for.

Sport

Go Big or Go Home

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One American’s Sunday odyssey into the life of an Italian soccer fan Vincent Tacchi If you are in Florence on a Sunday afternoon, it can be hard to find things to do to pass the time. The city tends to shut down on Sundays, and oftentimes you’re left wondering where everyone went.

I recently found out where it is that everyone goes when the city seems empty: they are at Stadio Artemio Franchi, because their beloved soccer team is playing.

I had my first Fiorentina calcio experience on December 4, as I went to see La Viola take on A.C. Roma. Gameday started around noon, and as I walked to the stadium with a group of friends we took advantage of the several stands selling fan gear and pre-game food.

After making my way through the flood of people clad in purple, I was able to buy a team scarf for only five euro and a light

lunch. After this, I was ready for the game!

I had never been to an Italian soccer game before this point, so I was not sure what to expect. I had heard stories about how rowdy the fans can be and how they are constantly chanting during the game, but I wasn’t really sure if I believed it or not. After all, even the craziest of fans in America take a break from the screaming and yelling during games, so why would Italians be any different?

Within the first five minutes of making to to my seat, I realized how wrong my assumption was. The Fiorentina pride was evident throughout the stadium as every single person was donning at least some sort of purple clothing…well, except of course for the Roma fan section, which was rather large itself and was a sea of red and orange.

The curve on the home team side was totally

packed, and people were setting off smoke bombs and waving flags. I was sitting closer to the Roma fan section, but I could not even hear their chants because the Fiorentina chants almost completely overpowered them. Everything that I had been told was proving to be true and my skepticism was put to rest.

The game itself was a blast. Fiorentina jumped out to an early 1-0 lead when Stevan Jovetic scored a penalty kick after a Roma player received a red card for a rough foul inside the box. He is clearly the fan favorite, as he received the biggest applause during pre-game introductions and the fans chanted his name after he scored the penalty kick.

Fiorentina ended up scoring two more goals and won the game 3-0. The game got out of hand with about 15 minutes left and in

response, the Fiorentina chants grew even louder. In America, fans usually head home early if their team is losing badly in order to beat the traffic leaving the game.

But not in Italy.

Despite the fact that it was clear at this point that Roma was going to lose the match, their fans remained and continued their chanting until the final whistle blew.

The Fiorentina soccer game was truly an experience that I will never forget and is a highlight of my trip in Italy. Having the opportunity to be surrounded by die-hard fans that cheer and chant for 90 minutes is something that is unique to European soccer, and would certainly turn a “Lazy Sunday” into an unforgettable one.