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ISSUE 54

Huay-To Waterfall

•TRAVEL•CULTURE•AO NANG•LANTA•LEISURE•NATURE•


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Editorial

Welcome to Krabi June 2010 – ISSUE 54 EXECUTIVE EDITOR: Thomas Gennaro krabimagazine@gmail.com 089 9085990 ART GROUP Creative Director: Nattapat Sunthonphuriwat [Ton®] tonidesign@gmail.com - 089 7727858 Graphic Designers: Bandit Kanjanavarodom [Lim] CONTRIBUTING WRITERS & PHOTOGRAPHERS Thomas Gennaro – Nattapat Sunthonphuriwat Ciaran Tierney - Robby Attwater Ton Company – Paul Stretton Bandit Kanjanavarodom DISTRIBUTION AO NANG - KRABI - PHUKET Newspaperdirect Krabi: 075 637459 DISTRIBUTION KOH LANTA - KOH PHI PHI PHUKET - KOH SAMUI - BANGKOK Guava Corporations: 089 9085990

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rabi Province is considered to be one of the most beautiful regions in a beautiful country. Krabi has it all, from the limestone karsts that characterize the region to world-class beaches, islands, temples, markets, nightlife and shopping, the list is seemingly endless. Gastronomes will find Krabi a sanctuary of fine dining and lovers of the great outdoors will find plenty to keep them occupied - waterfalls, hot springs, national parks, elephant treks are all on offer and Krabi is also one of the world’s premier destinations for rock climbing and scuba diving. The coral reefs of the Andaman Sea are among the world’s best and the Railay Peninsula attracts climbers from all over the world. We are right into the Green Season, and Krabi is looking gorgeous. I am currently reporting from abroad, where I am enjoying a well-deserved holiday in the Spanish island of Tenerife after a spell in Italy to visit my family. On reading the wonderful adventures and articles in this June 2010 issue of Krabi Magazine, I cannot help but miss my ‘home’, Ao Nang, and the whole Krabi province. So, I am having fun on this Spanish beach reading about Paul’s trek to Huay-To Waterfall in Khao Panom Bencha National Park, and about flora of Krabi, and about football, as well as a piece on spirit houses and an account of a past boat trip to the world of mangroves. We also discover how the island of Koh Lanta is nice and laid-back in the Green Season too. Our real estate section is quite rich, with a commemoration article for the 10 years of Ton Company; Lumyai Construction that helps readers to avoid pitfalls during construction of your dream home; a small investment guide from our Property Guru; an article on compost; and an update on the re-branding of Exotiq Real Estate.

KitDee Media & Design Company Limited 247/13 Moo 5, Ao Nang, Krabi 81000 Tel: 075 661144 - 075 637459 - Fax: 075 637460 E-mail: krabimagazine@gmail.com

Krabi Magazine is published and produced by KitDee Media & Design Company Limited and is protected by Copyright. No parts of this publication can be used or reproduced in any form – printed, electronic, photocopy or otherwise – without the written permission of the publishers. The publisher reserves the right to refuse to publish adverts, texts or advertising features. Advertising terms and conditions are to be obtained at krabimagazine@gmail.com Please send submissions to krabimagazine@gmail.com DISCLAIMER While great care has been taken in the receipt and handling of material, production and accuracy in this magazine, the publisher will not accept any responsibility for any errors, loss or omissions which may occur. The information and stories published are those of the writers and contributors, and do not necessarily reflect those of the publisher or the editor. The description of properties, the contents, whereabouts and price are given in this magazine as a guide only. Please request further details from the advertiser and seek legal advice before entering into any contract to purchase. All information and prices were correct at the time of going to press.

Huay To Waterfall Cover picture courtesy of: ton®

Watch out for our extremely popular Krabi 81000 Miniguide and Krabi Maps series that are massively available to visitors to Krabi and Koh Lanta, complementing the magazine and helping you with your search for the best eats, nightlife, activities, boats and buses timetables, doctors and banks, events; an endless array of information to make your stay reasonably organized. Find Krabi 81000 Miniguide and Krabi Maps in your hotel lounge, in restaurants and pubs, at airport and boat pier or in your favourite local travel agency. Browse them avidly and make use of our local expertise. Look out for our logos, and BEWARE OF IMITATIONS! We hope you find Krabi Magazine inspirational and helpful whether you come to Krabi to eat, drink and relax on the beach or participate in any of the numerous activities on offer here in Thailand. Enjoy the magazine, enjoy our Krabi Maps and 81000 Miniguides, and above all enjoy your holiday!

Thomas Gennaro Executive Editor


CONTENTS

A Window on Krabi

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Cover Story

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Highlights of this amazing province: town to temples, beaches to Islands, natural hotspots to cultural places.

A trek to Huay-To Waterfall in Khao Phanom Bencha National Park is not for the feint of heart There is no doubt about it as most of the national park is ‘virgin forest’. Follow us in this amazing Green Season adventure.

PLUS: Khao Phanom Bencha Factfile: The features Weather: It’s the rainy season; so what?

Flora

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Eating

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Adventure

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Something that you just can’t fail to notice during your time in the Krabi province will be the sheer abundance of beautiful flowers and exotic looking fruits. One of the most popular flowers all over Thailand, indeed the whole of South East Asia, is the Frangipani.

June 2010, issue 54

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Discover Krabi local products: Som Shogun and Hoi Chak Teen.

A nature longtail boat tour of the Krabi mangroves-populated canals, with great views of local wildlife and scenery.

PLUS: Factfile: Wetlands: a word of benefits

Cultural

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World Cup 2010

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Spirit worshiping in Thailand is a phenomenon that goes back to the ancient days. Today, spirit houses are appealing shelters for the spirit of celestial beings.

Where to watch the world cup during your Krabi holiday.

PLUS: Factfile: Krabi Football Club Bigfoot Travel: A Football holiday

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OPEN ALL YEAR


CONTENTS Koh Lanta

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Get the most out of Koh Lanta. Highlights, maps, reviews and articles:

Koh Lanta Highlights: Lanta Features Green Season: Laid-back Koh Lanta Leap into the Past: Cook with Junie - Tom Kha Gai recipe

Real Estate

June 2010, issue 54

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Purchasing and making real estate investments made simple with Krabi Magazine.

Architect Tips: Tenth Birthday for Ton Co! Construction: Avoid the Avoidable Part 2 Gardening: All about Compost The Property Guru: Investing Matters Buyer’s Guide: Exotiq Unveils a New Identity

Press

Welcome to Newspaperdirect in Asia.

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A window on Krabi

THE ISLANDS

THE CULTURE

Hop on or hire a longtail, the local wooden boats with their picturesque prows. Sail away to Koh Poda, surrounded by turquoise waters, or to Koh Kai, shaped as a chicken and therefore called the Chicken Island, from where a walk on a sandy pathway connects it to Koh Tub. Make a longtail boat or speedboat trip to the Koh Hong archipelago, a group of limestone islands with hidden caves and lagoons perfect for kayaking or snorkeling. Join an organized tour to amazing Koh Phi Phi islands, full of marvelous bays, limestone cliffs, waters rich in marine life, caves where swallow nests are harvested, and much more. Visit Koh Jum and Koh Siboya, small, unspoiled tropical hideaway that have a unique atmosphere. These islands still have no electricity and no cars and give visitors the time to relax and re-charge their batteries. Or venture out on Koh Lanta, the developing island at the southern end of the province home to sea gypsies communities, where you will meet nature and tradition. A National Park area that comprises many different islands surrounded by coral reefs, such as Koh Ngai and remote Koh Rok.

Ban Natin, on the way from Ao Nang to Klong Muang, is the place to experience the peaceful lifestyle of the local Muslim community. Home accommodation is available, or you can simply make a stopover and see the production of handmade products such as batik paintings, pineapple-fiber paper and coconut shell carving. Wat Klong Thom Museum features various kinds of beads, stone tools, and stone and earthen ornaments in animal shapes of approximately 5,000 years old, uncovered during archeological excavations. Fire dancing, part of the beach culture, is a popular evening activity on the beaches of Koh Lanta, performed by acrobatic boys who swing burning torches around their bodies, creating sparkling artistic pictures. Ban Sang-Ka-U is a sea gypsy’s settlement in south-east Lanta Yai. It is there that an old clan of traditional Chao Ley try to preserve a disappearing way of life in this fast-developing island.

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THE TEMPLE Located just 9 km from Krabi Town the Wat Tham Seua, or Tiger Cave Monastery, is one of south Thailand’s most famous and interesting forest temples, as the monks live, meditate and worship within a maze of natural caves in an overgrown jungle valley. Many Thai women live out their old-age there as nuns. Explore the inner cave used by monks for meditation. Climb the 1,237 steps up a limestone tower to see the statue of the Buddha and the “footprint of the Buddha” embedded in the rock, and to enjoy one of the best viewpoints of the area. Take the circular walk through Krabi’s rarest of all features, a pocket of primary lowland forest, a circular rocky basin enclosed by high cliffs. Here, along a pathway used by monks to meditate and amongst a number of magnificent trees you can be amazed in front of the largest flared root base of any tree remaining in Thailand.


THE BEACHES

THE TOWN

Ao Nang, at 20km from Krabi Town, is the most developed of Krabi’s beaches, a long stretch of white sandy beach with limestone mountains as a backdrop. It has a wide range of accommodation and services and the main shopping street features restaurants, bars, pubs, souvenir shops, dive centers and tour agencies, massage centers and spas. This is the hub from which to plan your trip at sea and to the nearby islands on a typical longtail boat. Noppharat Thara beach, just around the corner from Ao Nang, is 3km long yet still undeveloped, with only a few resorts and bars. Attractive because of its natural setting, this is where local youngsters and families gather at sunset and at weekends. Savour some local Muslim snacks at the beach stalls, or fill yourself with seafood in the local restaurants at the very end of the beach, near the Noppharat Thara National Park headquarters. At low tide, walk out together with millions of small crabs on the sandy pathways to the small islands near the beach. Railay beaches are split and separated from Krabi and Ao Nang by monumental limestone mountains. Railay has two sides, east and west, and its settings are simply marvelous: crystal clear waters, pure sandy beaches, lush mountains, rocky islands emerging from the sea. Railay can only be reached by boat, a 15 minutes ride from Ao Nang or 30 minutes from Krabi Town. Enjoy a cocktail in one of the beach bars, visit the Phranang Cave, challenge yourself on a rock climbing course, hike the limestone massif to a lagoon and a viewpoint, or simply chill out. Neighbouring Tonsai lies at the base of a cliff which divides it form Railay West. Tonsai has a shallow beach with slow gradients out to sea which is profoundly affected by the tide. Klong Muang beach is a further 20km away from Ao Nang; it is the up-market side of Krabi, the place to be if you are after a peaceful holiday. Catering to families and couples, it is here that you really get the so deserved repose, surrounded by pristine nature. Tubkaek beach is another real place to hide away; long, clean and peaceful, the area has breathtaking views over Koh Hong islands archipelago, and charming sunsets. From there you can venture inside the National Park and try a walking trail to a viewpoint and a waterfall. Koh Lanta beaches have a wide selection of resorts for all tastes and pockets. Lanta Yai island has long stretches of gleaming white sandy beaches and shallow emerald waters. Lined with tropical vegetation, a private spot is never more than a short walk away on a southern beach at Lanta Yai.

Small, charming, silent at times, nice for a day’s walking tour. Krabi Town is full of old buildings, bars and restaurants, local exotic marketplaces and food stalls at the old Chao Fa pier where to sample the local food. The Krabi motto is: “lively town, lovely people”; Krabi’s simple people are definitely proud of their town and of their warm and generous character. Hop on a longtail boat at Chao Fa pier and visit Khao Kanab Nam, the unique pair of hills facing each other on the opposite banks of the Krabi River, symbols of the town; or embark on a journey to Koh Klang, an island next to town on the mouth of the river, where you will experience lives lived by the local fishing communities; or charter a boatman for a visit to the mangrove backwaters.

NATURAL HOTSPOTS Limestone mountains or karsts, characterize most of the inland Krabi area, the most spectacular being the massifs of Sai Tai. Susaan Hoi is a 40 million year-old seashell cemetery; once a large swamp where freshwater crustaceans proliferated, today home to 40 centimeter thick, shell encrusted limestone slabs, a geological uniqueness not far from Ao Nang. One must find a broken edge to see the shells clearly, since all of those on the upper surface have been walked on and worn down by the elements and are hard to identify. Khao Phanom Bencha National Park, at 20km from Krabi Town, comprises waterfalls, streams, lush forests and caves. It is home to all kind of flora and wildlife and to the highest mountain in the region from which it takes the name. One of the features of the park is Huay Toh Waterfall where water runs down onto several huge pools. Tarnbok Khoranee National Park, in the north of the region, consists of limestone mountains, verdant tropical forest, caves and beautiful islands. It is well-known for its different species of trees growing around a large natural crystal clear pool, and for the hundreds of birds’ species. Phi Hua Toh Cave, in the nearby Bor Thor area, surrounded by mangrove swamps and reachable by boat or kayak, is where to see pre-historic rock paintings depicting animals and humans. Sa Morakot, the Emerald Pool, is a natural wonder: a pond of turquoise water with an average temperature of 30-40C, fed by a hot spring in the middle of the jungle. Hot Springs of Klong Thom, natural Jacuzzis in which to lift away tensions and relieve body and mind with the mineral-enriched waters falling into rocky ponds.

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Cover Story Story and Photos by : Paul Stretton

Huay-To Waterfall Trek 10

Krabi Magazine


It was something we had always threatened to do, but never quite managed to get around to doing it.

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ell today we were at a loose end, so it was a perfect opportunity to hop on the bike and take a scoot out to the Huay To Waterfall we had heard so much about. Our Thai friends had been telling us about this place for months now, so curiosity finally got the better of us and off we went. The waterfall itself is a part of the Khao Phanom Bencha National Park - a 50 sq. km piece of lush, protected forest that lies around 35 km from Ao Nang. It is the only national park in the whole of the Krabi province that is fully located on the mainland - so it is easy to get to without having to rely on water transport. Our trusty scooter had is there in around 40 minutes, and we parked up to go see the man about some tickets. Being a national park, they charge a small admission fee for visitors which goes to support the upkeep of the area. We were pleasantly surprised when the ticket man gave us a great 2 for 1 discount! Although to be honest, they weren’t exactly beating the visitors off with a stick. Another pleasant surprise was the extremely helpful employees that were dotted around the parking area. They greeted us and asked what we were interested in seeing. We were given a map of the park and pointed in the direction of the waterfalls, as well as a viewpoint that pointed up an ominous-looking slope into what looked like a trail that has not seen the footprint of man since the Spanish inquisition. Still, it was only 750 meters up according to the sign, and we could loop around to the waterfall afterwards, according to the smiling Thai man, so we decided to throw caution to the wind and started up the trail.

The path started out like a path, then after a while decided it didn’t much like the thought of being a path anymore, and withered into a trail. Then the trail had a look at it’s watch, decided it needed a nap, and shrank into a rough dent in the undergrowth that you could only see if you looked slightly to one side of it - much like looking at an eclipse. The map boasted proudly that most of the national park was ‘virgin forest’. We now know this to be a translation of ‘jungle’. There is no doubt about it - this is literally, no walk in the park for the feint of heart. The trail here is fairly steep and uneven, and it is very warm and humid. But that’s the whole point when you think about it - here we were just a short bike ride away from our nice, airconditioned house and we are in the middle of the set for an Indiana Jones film! I’m sure I hear the faint chuckling of the sign below that promised the viewpoint to be a mere 750 meters above. Let me tell you that 750 meters seems longer walking through the jungle than on a flat road. Lesson learned!

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After a while, we got into our stride and began to adapt to our surroundings. Stopping to take a drink from our water bottle (definitely a good thing to bring), we were struck by the silence of our surroundings, broken by only our heavy breathing and the occasional squawk of some unseen bird and the screech of a cricket high up in the canopy. On the way we were aware of how close we were to nature here - not at all like the fenced off areas and well defined walkways of parks and forests back home. We came across enormous ants an inch long, a termite mound as big as myself, huge golden orb spiders lounging in the middle of immense webs, and lots of different lizards that scuttled up trees and through the undergrowth as we approached. After a particularly loud rustle ahead of us that shook the undergrowth violently, we again checked the map to see what other inhabitants we might come across. The map boasts a very helpful and informative ‘Flora & Fauna’ section that said the park is home to tapir.. ok.. serow.. right.. wild boar.. erm... panther…. PANTHER?? Yes, it said panther. And after that, clouded leopard. Somehow after the panther and leopard, the Asiatic black bear wasn’t so shocking to read. Maybe that was the idea of the thoughtful map-making people. Fortunately, or unfortunately - depending on how you look at things like this we didn’t come across any of the aforementioned animals. They must hear us coming a long time before we get anywhere near them, so we were in no real danger.

Before we knew it, we came to the viewpoint at the top. Now if you decide to take this trek, be advised that the ‘view’ in viewpoint is slightly overrated. There is in fact a gap in the trees that allows you to see miles into the distance over the whole of the Krabi province. You will not be standing proudly on a mountaintop, gazing upon a spectacular panoramic view, like I thought. Anyway, it wasn’t the view we had come for - but the waterfall, and we made our way eagerly to the sign that pointed the way. Just a few minutes later, we could hear the roar of water getting louder and closer. The thought of jumping into fresh, cool water to refresh our sweaty bodies had us slipping and stumbling eagerly towards the sound.

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The jungle parted and there we were - staring down a 70 meter roaring torrent of fresh water. It was a beautiful sight to behold, but unfortunately not too safe to swim in, unless we fancied getting back to the bike in 5 seconds flat. We crossed the river easily and decided to start heading downwards on the other side - following the water as we went. After a while, we realized that the waterfall was actually in several stages - 11 tiers in all - and some of them much safer to swim in. We found a deserted section, stripped down to our swimwear, and dove in. This made the whole trip worth it! Unlike the warm, salty water of the ocean - this was clear, cool and fresh. We splashed around for 10 minutes or so under the falls, before lying in the sun for a while to relax and dry off. We headed further down the trail and as we came closer to our starting point, we started to see other people - the first since we started on the trail at the bottom. We noticed that they were all Thai - no foreigners here but ourselves. Little kids were squealing excitedly as they splashed and fell in the cool pools below the falls as the parents watched on. Elderly women rested on rocks and soaked their feet, smiling and waving at us as we passed. We soon reached the bottom and realized that we had indeed walked in a loop all the way around. If we wanted to just see the waterfalls, we could have gone the other way and not via the viewpoint - good to know if you don’t fancy the trek! By now we were feeling hungry, and deservedly so. Although there was a restaurant there at the bottom, we knew that we would probably just want to lie down afterwards, so we decided to just head back straight away. On the way back to the bike, we noticed that there were several traditional style bungalows for rent - which would be a great experience for anyone wanting a real getaway break. As we drove out of the front gates, out friendly 2 for 1 ticket man waved goodbye from his booth, and we left glad that we had finally gotten to have this experience. If you are looking for something truly authentic and aren’t afraid of a little effort to get it, then the trek and waterfall is something I would heartily recommend. If you are coming here, it would be a good idea to bring water bottles with you - although there is a restaurant on site if you need it. Also, wear something on your feet more substantial that 49 Baht flip flops, if you want to get through the trail without swearing loudly every 10 seconds. Some parts of the loop are fairly steep, so trainers or Teva-style walking sandals would be a good idea - take it from me. Also, if you are planning on swimming in the waterfall pools, please remember that this place attracts a lot of local Thai residents, who are Muslim. So women, perhaps no itsy-bitsy-teeny-weeny bikinis here - unless you like getting glared at!

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Fact File

Khao Phanom Bencha National Park

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ocated at about 20 kms north of Krabi on the mainland, this densely forested park hosts many scenic spots apart from the Huai To waterfall featured in this month magazine…

Khao Phanom Bencha National Park is mainly a moist evergreen forest that hosts an interesting flora that includes palms, genus Calamus, greenia wightiana and bamboos. There are a number of animals in the park: serows, wild pigs, panthers, clouded leopards, black bears, mouse deers, langurs, gibbons, Stump-tailed monkeys, Asiatic wild dog, squirrel, hornbills, pheasants, and red jungle fowls. Weather in the park is warm and humid throughout the year, with two seasons: hot between January and April and rainy between May and December; the maximum rainfall happens in the period June to October.

FEATURES Tham Khao Ping, a cave lying 3 kms from the Park Office, features large stalactites and stalagmites. There are 3 picturesque waterfalls, including Nam Tok Huoy Saday - a 1.2 km walk from the National Park Office - Nam Tok Klong Hang - lying 10 kms from Khao Phanom District Headquarters - and Nam Tok Ton Hahn - 16 kms from the Khao Phanom District Headquarters. But the most impressive feature in the park has to be the Phanom Bencha Mountain, covered in thick forests. At 1,397 meters above sea level, Khao Phanom Bencha is the highest peak in the Krabi province, it provides a watershed area for the surrounding areas and is ideal for a serious hike. The walk should start in the morning – between 9am and 10am - from the side opposite to the Huay Toh Waterfall entrance of the park. From there, you will have to find the way that gets you around the mountain to the other ranger station called ‘Bang Saran Village’ or Ban San Tourist Service Center (the map at the ranger station will help your way). The trail up is characterized by evergreen forest of thick trees. There is a limit of up to 5 persons going at once plus the guide. The hike takes between 3 and 4 hours to the summit, where you can amaze at the beautiful landscape of Krabi Town. Hikers can expect to see several animals during the climb, including tapirs, serows, wild boars, panthers (!), clouded leopards, peacocks, Asiatic black bears, mouse deers, civets, langurs and many kinds of birds. You should inform the rangers that you are about to do the trek. It is advisable to arrange a hike up the mountain in advance, by calling the park office on 075 660716/7 – have a Thai friend call as they may not speak English well enough over the phone to arrange your trek. If you feel highly adventurous, you can hike up one day and camp overnight one or two nights, though no tents or other gear provided by the park so you need to bring your own tent, sleeping bag (it is cold in the night on the top of the mountain) and everything else. The cost for a guide to take you up and back down the same day should be about 1,000 baht per person. Asiatic black bears and all sorts of fauna may come into your camp area, so do some research beforehand, or get the guide to spend the night there with you if you want a bit of extra protection.

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Weather

It’s the rainy season! So what?

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ight, you have arrived at your tropical destination in this well deserved holiday and guess what? It’s pouring down with rain. Beach is not an option, boat trips neither, what to do? Don’t despair if your days in Krabi are filled with raindrops. Thunderstorms can be absolutely stunning, they are sudden and usually don’t last that long, the sun will soon be shining again drying the place up. The colours are often breathtaking and the sunsets ineffable. There are plenty of things to do here in the rainy season. On the aesthetic side, natural attractions such as national parks abound and are at their best under the rain, the greens are greener and the fauna comes out of their hiding places to enjoy the water blessing. Alternatively, relax in a Thai massage parlour or in one of the many Spas in the area, take a Thai cooking class, or buy one of the wooden games such as Jenga and loose yourself out in your room, watching out of your window as the storm passes by... until the sun magically reappears. If you are a couple be careful though; most children in Thailand are conceived precisely during the rainy season, too much time together in the room can lead to consequences…

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Flora Story and Photos by : Paul Sretton

Frangipanis Something that you just can’t fail to notice during your time in the Krabi province will be the sheer abundance of beautiful flowers and exotic looking fruits. One of the most popular flowers all over Thailand, indeed the whole of South East Asia, is the Frangipani - also known as the Plumeria flower in other parts of the world.

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he name, frangipani, has disputed origins. Some claim that the name comes from the Italian nobleman, Marquis Frangipani, who created a perfume used to scent gloves in the 16th century. When the frangipani flower was discovered its natural perfume reminded people of the scented gloves, and so the flower was called frangipani. Another version has it that the name, frangipani, is from the French frangipanier which is a type of coagulated milk that the Plumeria milk resembles. There is a theory that Catholic missionary priests spread frangipanis around the world as they travelled. This may explain why the frangipani is so popular and common in the Philippines and Thailand but very rare in China and Vietnam. Thailand and the Philippines welcomed the Christian missionaries while, in China and Vietnam, they were persecuted until around the 1850s. Apart from its sweat, heady aroma, the frangipani has been used for many years in traditional medicine. Its bark, roots and sap, for example, can be used to treat everything from tremors and anxiety to skin inflammation, indigestion, high blood pressure, fever, dysentery and indigestion. It’s not surprising that the flower and indeed, the whole tree, are treated with respect and reverence in most of Asia. Due to the facts that they are able to produce leaves and flowers after being uprooted, and that they only burn in temperatures over 500 degrees, they are seen as symbols of love and immortality in some cultures. In India, for example, it is often planted near temples and graveyards, where the fresh flowers fall daily upon the tombs. The frangipani is regarded as a sacred tree in Laos and every Buddhist temple in that country has them planted in their courtyards. Even in China, the flower is considered extremely rare and even more precious than orchids. So, when a person gives frangipani flowers to a sweetheart, it is the closest thing to saying ‘I love you’ in a culture where expression of personal feelings is frowned upon. Frangipani trees were once considered taboo in Thai homes because of superstitious associations with the plant’s Thai name, lantom, which is similar to ratom, the Thai word for sorrow. As a result, frangipanis were thought to bring unhappiness. Today, however, the blossoms are presented as fragrant offerings to Buddha and Thai people wear them on special festival days like Songkran (Thai New Year). They are also commonly used as decoration in homes, hotels, spas and restaurants again thanks to their wonderful scent as well as their colouration. The most common are the while blossoms, although they can also grow in yellow and pink colours as well. So while you enjoy your time in our beautiful part of the world, keep an eye out for the frangipani and its wonderful aroma.

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Eating

SOM (ORANGE) SHOGUN This orange is popular because of its sweet taste. It has a thin rind and little pulp and is best eaten fresh. The orange tree flowers from March to June depending on the climate in the area and takes about one month for the fruit to set. The fruit can be picked 8 to 9 months later. The most popular propagation method is by rooting branches. Orange growers usually wait until the tree is three years old before they start picking the fruit.

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HOI CHAK TEEN (FEET-PULLING SHELLS) Hoi Chak Teen, or wing shell, is in the Strombus Canxarium family. It looks like a conch but is smaller and brown in color. Its special characteristic is its dark brown walking legs, which are referred to as “feet” or “teen” (in informal Thai). Hoi Chak Teen are found in the sea in Krabi and nearby provinces. To prepare Hoi Chak Teen, the shells are soaked in salty water for about half an hour. A few crushed chilies are added to the water to make it spicy. The shells then begins to move, pushing their feet out and expelling the mud from inside. They are then rinsed several times and put in to a pot of cold water. The pot is put on the stove and when the water gets warm, the shells push their feet out. As soon as they are cooked, they are ready to be served. To eat Hoi Chak Teen, you pull the feet and the mollusk comes out. They are usually eaten with a dip made of garlic, chilies, sugar, lime juice and fish sauce. Hoi Chak Teen is a popular savory snack dish, and their shells are also made into decorative items for the home or sold as souvenirs.


Adventure Story : Thomas Gennaro Photos by : Nattaphat Sunthornphuriwat

Krabi River’s backwaters Mangroves and wildlife, a local concoction near town

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t was early morning in Krabi Town. The sun was already heating the air while we patiently awaited the departure of our longtail boat, the Angemi, in La Panza restaurant at the old Chao Fa pier. We had booked one of Pi Om tours to experience the local scenery of the Krabi mangroves-populated canals. Phanom Bencha, Krabi highest mountain, was clearly visible and had a single puffy cloud towering above it. The waters of the estuary of the Krabi River were calm, the perfect day for a tour of the river; boats from Koh Klang Island were full of people that commute daily to town for shopping or working. We met Captain Bang Moot, a veteran of the Krabi waters, boarded the boat and we were soon on our way. The mangroves that fringe the coastline of the various islands divided by the maze of canals are thick and impenetrable. We were told mangroves used to be cut for producing charcoal in brick ovens, and then sent in big ships to Singapore and Indonesia, but this practice has been stopped by the intervention of the Queen of Thailand who declared the area protected to preserve the wildlife that inhabits the mangroves and the local endemic flora. The boat approached some mangroves and a family of monkeys showed up. Some of them came right on the boat to grab the bananas we kindly offered them. It was a special treat to them; we were amazed at the friendliness of these primates, wild animals in high number on these mangroves but quite reserved and wary of humans.

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The following stop was in a Krachang, a floating house to which a fish farm has been attached; it is still a permanent lodging to many locals, especially for the Chao Ley, or sea gypsies’ ethnic groups. A helpful middle aged man in his traditional sarong fed enormous fish, 1 meter long agile predators who did not hesitate to fight between them with lashes of their potent tails to grab one of the sardines being thrown in the water. We parted from the Krachang owner and continued the program. We passed longtail boats and wove hallo to smiling fishermen busy in their chores. The Angemi navigated upriver, reaching the symbol of Krabi, Khao Kanab Nam, two hills part of a national conservation area of 4 million square meters home to different species of fish, monkeys and birds. These two dog ear shaped rocks, about 100 meters high and facing each other, are separated by the Krabi River and form the town’s most prominent landmark. Human skeletal remains have been recovered inside the biggest cave, and legend wants them to be the remains of an ancient civilization. During World War II Japanese soldiers established a base in the municipality of Klong Phra Song. At the end of the world this spot was used as a burying ground for Japanese soldiers, and also to accommodate burial remains of Thai victims, a sort of a natural morgue. An open air exhibition has been set up at the inside of the cave. We climbed a wooden staircase that took us to the inside of the cave. The inside of it was indeed spectacular: stalactites and stalagmites of all forms and impressive heights give the impression of a lunar landscape. Bats flew over our heads, the stench of their dung permeating in the air. Bang Moot told us that pitons inhabit the cave, although are rarely seen by humans. Well, that was good news. The northern access hole to the cave allows sun rays to enter and light the cave in the day. We returned to the boat and set off upriver once again, with the Angemi travelling effortlessly at a slow pace along the calm waters. Captain Bang Moot informed us that it is possible to sail upriver for approximately 5 kilometers, and to venture inside the endless canals that converge to the main float and divide the many mangrove invaded river islands. We spotted a small varan sunbathing on the shore, more monkeys and a fair number of birds before changing course of navigation. We passed Krabi Town again and carried on in direction of the open sea. We watched the towering cliffs of Railay approaching, and the karsts inland that shape the local panorama. A few minutes on we sailed near Krabi’s commercial port, a very picturesque place where fishing boats of all kinds unload their catches of the day and refill their tanks. Fishermen were busy throwing fish from big polyester boxes onto long aluminum tables, where their wives dressed in plastic gowns and fishermen’s boots sorted it out in plastic baskets. Old men played draughts on wooden boards, the pieces rusted beer caps. It was soon time to return to Krabi. It had been an excellent and complete ½ day trip with great views of local wildlife and scenery. We parted from captain Bang Moot, thanking him for his dedication. I rate this tour highly and a real eco-experience in Krabi province.

HOW TO GO This tour can be made either in the morning or in the afternoon, according with the tides times, and can run in Green Season too. Mangrove trips may be combined with half-day trips to Koh Klang Island to experience the life of the villagers. For information and prices contact Om on 075 621 598 or 08 7271 0680, or visit La Panza Italian Restaurant in the old Chao Fa pier in Krabi.

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Fact File

WETLANDS: A WORLD T OF BENEFITS

he Krabi River estuary is located adjacent to and including the municipality of Krabi Town. It represents a fine example of the need for co-existence of urban environments and natural wetland environments. The Krabi River estuary covers an area of 21,300 hectares that comprise mudflats, sandy beaches and canals in front of Krabi Town and mangrove forests and extensive sea-grass beds in Koh Siboya. It is formed where a complex of several rivers discharge into southern Thailand’s Phang-Nga Bay, and is dominated by in excess of 10,000 hectares of mangrove forest. At low tides, an additional 1,200 hectares of tidal mudflat are revealed. Krabi River estuary is a fine example of co-existence between urban and natural areas. The mangrove forests, seagrass beds and coral reefs provide important sources of food for fishes, spawning grounds and nurseries. Wetlands play an important role in the ecological system of human life and other living creatures. Some of the benefits are: • They serve as a resource for fresh water, for dull and salty water that human beings, plants and animals use, and for water used in various activities. • They are reservoirs for storage of rainy and stream water that flow down from highland areas, making water intensity lower and water flow slower, prevents water from flowing quickly out into the sea and prevents sudden flooding. • They can help prevent salty water from entering into mainland areas. They protect coastal areas and help to reduce soil erosion along the coastline. • They retain toxic substances in soil molecules that flow down with water as sediments, hence reducing damage on the ecological system. • Their natural resources have great importance to daily lives and to the socio-economic status of villagers around the area. Aside from the benefits mentioned above, wetlands are essential to the life cycle of plants and wildlife, as well as being beneficial to the biological study of nature, and also constitute a tourist attraction. They play an important role in maintaining many stabilization processes that occur naturally, such as becoming a storage center of carbon, and they help in maintaining micro-climate stabilization within the locality. Knowing all this, it is therefore our duty to care about how to utilize wetlands correctly and appropriately, and to care about their wellbeing.

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Cultural Story : Thomas Gennaro Photos by : Bandit Kanjanavarodom

Spirit Houses

Appealing shelter for the spirits or celestial beings

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pirit worshiping in Thailand is a phenomenon that goes back to the ancient days when the Thais were beginning their slow migration from the Red River Delta in northern Vietnam to all parts of the Southeast Asian region. Spirit Worship, or Animism, was a religion by which the entire world lived at one time, and when Buddhism came to Southeast Asia, it developed side by side with the ancient spirit religion. Today, many of the old animistic beliefs are intertwined with Buddhism and some animistic practices still exist in Thailand. One which is still practiced by every Thai is the Spirit House. According to the local folklore, the spirits themselves are either good or evil, but most are just pernickety and mischievous, demanding respect from humans and capable of disastrous interferences if they don’t get their way.

On you visit in Krabi you will see all around constructions that varies from simple as a typical Thai-style shelter or as elaborate as a Thai palace: they are spirit houses. Their purpose is to provide an appealing shelter for the spirits, or celestial beings, who would otherwise reside in the heavens, in large trees, in caves, cliffs, waterfalls or other natural surroundings.

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The Spirit House may be permanent or temporary, made of wood, concrete or brick. Prominent spots are outside every business establishment, on a pedestal in front of every hotel, in the corner garden area of restaurants, the front of bars (discos and pubs), at outdoor food markets, on the grounds of Buddhist temples; outside caves in the mountains, near fishing ponds in the valleys, in the middle of an otherwise uninhabited forest, and most importantly, however, they can be seen at the yard of every home. The size may vary from very small to large (walk-in). The houses are finished with statues, small figures, or symbols of many sorts in the center within the spirit house. In addition, there may be various animal figures, such as elephants or horses; figures of people, such


as a married couple or other images; and even furniture. Outside, around the balcony that usually surrounds a spirit house, incense holders, candle sticks, and vases for flowers are placed. Offerings to a spirit house and the spirit who is intended to reside within can be nearly anything. The traditional offerings include flower garlands, betel leaves, bananas, rice, chicken, duck, and a wide range of other edibles and no edibles. Candles are often used while incense is usually lit daily before a spirit house. The offerings are given so as to invoke the spirits protections of homes, business - often in Thailand, business outlets and homes are in the same location. There are spirit houses everywhere in Krabi, they are one of the most fundamental features of Thai life even today, and it is easily the most obvious. So all you have to do from now on while in Krabi is to look around for them and if you are lucky enough will be able to watch Thai families who light incense in the morning and ask the spirit to watch over and protect their homes. Yes, because Krabi is a revelation in any corner.


World Cup 2010

Where to watch the World Cup You might be worried about the late time of some of the matches of this year’s Fifa World Cup. Assuming you are staying in Ao Nang, the following is a list of the best places where to go football-crazy.

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he Irish Rover pub can accommodate lots of people in a comfortable area, and has one of Ao Nang’s largest screens. You might even be able to spot the fouls before the referee does… There you can also read some of the British tabloids on a daily basis. The Irish Rover will stay open late if enough customers are willing to stay awake to watch the early morning matches, and will surely be open for the semi-finals and finals, all broadcasted at late times. Other places include Bernies, with its 3 big 36” TVs, a real sports bar atmosphere, Full Moon Bar, with its one 24” screen and loud crowds, and a mix of places inside the Soi Salai bars, that will be noisy and rowdy and full of beauties, if that is what you are after. The top of Center Point is the popular KR Bar, with a single 21” TV but assuring you a warm and cheerful atmosphere, the perfect place to mix football with good cocktails and perfect company. Check it out. Most of the places mentioned will apply the same policy for late matches, that is to say: more customers willing to stay late, more chances you have to watch the 2 am matches and later go to sleep hoping you dream about football. Most owners cannot guarantee late opening though, unless a special team is playing (e.g. all the semi-finals and finals). If you are staying in exclusive Klong Muang, apart from the comfortable room of your hotel, you can head to Paddy’s Irish pub, which has two 32” TVs and will stay open for late matches. If you are in Krabi Town, head to pubs in Chao Fa Road. Choice will not be limited to that though; nearby the old Chao Fa Pier, other places will welcome you to cheer your favourite teem there. Other establishments will be showing the World Cup, from bars to restaurants, both near the old pier and in the center of the town. Local and characteristic improvised roadside restaurants will be offering wicker mats to sit on and look at the matches on 24” movable TVs, while you eat, drink or have a coffee and a snack. Shouting and rejoicing with Thai football fans is an experience you should try, whatever the team you support. Just venture around the various side roads and pick a spot. A recommendation: regardless what place you will enjoy the World Cup football from, make sure you do it in a peaceful way. Happy football!

Krabi Football Club F

ootball is the most popular sport in Thailand. Although the professional football leagues are new to Thai people, football was introduced to Thailand as far back as 1897. Many Thais also watch football on local and paid-cable TV. Many matches, especially those in the English FA Premier League can be watched free on local channels. Krabi Football Club, nicknamed The Andaman Eagles Club, is a Thailand semi professional football club based in Krabi Province. The club currently plays in the Regional League South Division; home games are played at Krabi Stadium. Nattiwat Raksakij is the first ever coach of Krabi FC.

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A Football holiday‌ B

igfoot Travel is proud to be amongst the first in Thailand to provide holidaymakers with the chance to play their favourite sport: football! The philosophy of Thailand International Soccer 7s is to combine Sport and Leisure for all people from any country through friendship seven-a-side tournaments. These events are invitation tournaments that provide a socially competitive environment for players who approach the game with the right attitude and in the right spirit. With no prize money at stake, teams take part for one reason only, their love of football. Each competition attracts about 16 to 50 teams from all over the world and has become a major attraction in Asia for expatriate football players. Teams are not only coming from Asian countries, but also from Africa, Australia and Europe. After football matches, leisure is also an important part of the tournaments with gettogether for dinners, evening parties, sport activities or cultural visits. Everyone is to remember his participation to a friendly Sport and Leisure experience in Thailand. Senior, junior and women football players are going to find their place in the next football tournaments, as well as individual players who are not members of a team. Individual players willing to join a team as goalkeeper, defender, midfield or striker will have the possibility to do so. Our aim at Travel Bigfoot is to promote Thailand as a sport destination and we are especially keen on offering Soccer 7s tournaments in various destinations of the Kingdom. If you are interested in participating in one of the below-mentioned events, please contact Travel Bigfoot for inquiries and preregistrations on www.travelbigfoot.com


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Koh Lanta

Koh Lanta Highlights

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oh Lanta is situated in the southernmost tip of the Krabi province. It consists of two islands, Koh Lanta Noi and Koh Lanta Yai. Koh Lanta Noi is the smaller of the two islands and does not have tourist facilities. Visitors traveling by road from the main land pass through the smaller island on the way to Koh Lanta Yai, the center of the tourist operations. Ban Sala Dan village, in the north of the island, is Lanta Yai’s commercial center, and the pier where visitors arrive on the island. It is a row of shops, seafood restaurants on stilts, dive shops, tour operators, banks and guest houses that cater for new comers on the island. The bulk of the Lanta beaches lie along the west coast of the island and can all be reached by road: Kho Kwang, Khlong Dao and Phra Ae all have long stretches of white sand facing the Andaman sea, while Khlong Khong, Khlong Nin and Ba Kan Tiang and other smaller bays are all nice to relax and swim but might appear less stunning. The east coast of Koh Lanta Yay is flat and has many local villages scattered along its coastline. Koh Lanta has a very diverse cultural mix of people who have lived on the island in harmony for hundreds of years: Thai-Muslim, Thai-Chinese and the original sea gypsies still inhabit the place in harmony. The biggest town on the island is Lanta Old town. Boat trips to Koh Lanta are available during the monsoon free period from October to April. May to November see the closure of some of the island businesses and of the boat passenger services due to rough seas. A minibus service is the alternative way to reach the island via land. For boat schedule to/from Koh Lanta consult our Krabi Miniguide 81000.

Ba Kantiang Beach Spectacular crystal–clear seawater and soft white sand, romantic sunsets in utmost privacy, this is why Ba Kantiang has come to symbolize an hideaway in Lanta for relaxing in natural surroundings.

Lighthouse on Lanta Located in Tanod Cape, on the southernmost tip of the island, the lighthouse tower of Lanta is the perfect symbol of solitude. It is the place where immaculate nature still survives as it is rarely reached by tourists due to the rugged road conditions.

Koh Lanta National Park The park covers a marine area dotted with several small sandy islands surrounded by coral reefs. The headquarters is located on the island’s southern extremity.

Ban San-ka-u A sea gypsy’s settlement in south-east Lanta Yai. It is there that an old clan of traditional Chao Ley try to preserve a disappearing way of life in this fastdeveloping island.

Eco-tours These are run all year round from the east coast of Lanta Yai, not affected by the low season rough seas. Make your way to Thung Yee Pheng village for a trip with a local community - www.tungyeepeng.com, or book a tour with friendly and experienced Sun Tours - www.lantalongtail.com

Nature Lanta Old Town It was once called Ban Si Raya and was the commercial port for Chinese and Arabic trading boats that sailed between the ports of Phuket, Penang and Singapore. Today it is a village with a few rows of stilted shop houses home to an ancient community that was established on the island long ago. It is a picturesque place with, these Chinese timer shop-houses date back 100 years, from the old days of sea trading. Near the shacks along the coast, local fishermen dock their longtail boats giving the whole scene a very Thai look.

Because of its bio-diversity and richness of natural resources, Lanta is a good place for trekking. Explore limestone cave chambers and passageways in the Lanta caves, or walk upstream to the spring water waterfall, where to swim in cool rock pools.

Fire Dancing This is definitely one interesting part of the Lanta beach culture. A fire dancing show is usually performed by young boys performing twisting acrobatics swinging burning torches and ropes lit on fire around their muscular bodies. A distinguishing show that sparkles in the dark.

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Green Season Story & Photos by : Ciaran Tierney

Laid-back Koh Lanta …a low season delight

With its deserted sandy beaches and fantastic deals on accommodation, the delights of low season on Koh Lanta are among the best-kept secrets of the Thai tourism industry.

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W

hile Koh Lanta retains a laid-back vibe even in its busier months, when the island’s popularity never matches the intensity of Phuket or Phi Phi, it’s during the monsoon season that its character really shines through. Just ask some of the ex-pats who have made the island their home about how hard they find it to leave. For them, low season provides an opportunity to relax and engage with their friends, to enjoy long walks on empty beaches or party with the ‘hard core’ who visit the island when the seas become rough between May and October. Apart from the month of September, it only tends to rain for about two hours per day during the low season, if it rains at all, and for the resident ‘farangs’ (foreigners) it can be a magical and peaceful time. “It’s just really relaxing,” says Irish man Darren Troy, who operates the Irish Embassy bar on Long Beach. “There are great deals in the resorts during low season and the couple of hours of rain cool the day down nicely. We call it the green season. During the low season you have more time for your friends, because you’re too busy during high season. People tend to get more involved in Lanta life, because they have more time.” Darren ‘discovered’ Koh Lanta during a backpacking trip with his ex-girlfriend and immediately fell in love with the island. Within days of first visiting, he decided he wanted to live on Lanta, and he opened up his first pub, the Laughing Leprechaun, in late 2004. “I thought it would be affordable to open a business here, because I could not live in a really busy place like Phuket,” he says. “I opened my first business just six weeks before the Tsunami and eventually moved down here, to Long Beach.”

The Irish Embassy has built up a reputation as Koh Lanta’s leading sports bar, with soccer and rugby games on four screens on weekend nights, and the staff are expecting quite a few regulars in during the World Cup football tournament over the coming weeks. They intend to stay open throughout low season, with reduced hours, and will continue to serve food, including the legendary Sunday roasts which have become firm favourites among the ex-pat residents on the island. “I still enjoy life on Lanta, after almost six years on the island,” says Darren. “I love when I go out every day on my motorbike, before the bar opens, and the scenery still takes my breath away. I love to just drive around and take in the sea and the jungle. If a place can still do that to you after almost six years, there really is something about it!” Dutch woman Joyce Quarre, co-owner of the acclaimed Red Snapper restaurant, easily discovered the joys of life on Lanta. Her parents, Joop and Clarie, had retired to the island about seven years before Joyce and her husband, Ed, also made it their permanent home. Chefs back in Holland, the couple used to visit her parents regularly before Joop spotted what they believed would be a perfect site for a European style restaurant in a tropical garden at the southern end of Long Beach. It didn’t take them long to make up their minds! “After my parents saw this spot, within a month we got married, sold our house, and came out,” says Joyce. “We knew the potential of Koh Lanta, that the island was growing, and we were among the first people to provide quality European style cooking on the island.” That was in October 2003. Since then, Red Snapper has become known as the best ‘farang’ (foreigners) restaurant on the island. Joyce, Ed and their staff work seven days a week between mid-December and the end of January, which is why she loves the peace and tranquility of the monsoon months. “When you have time off, you just enjoy the wonderful sunsets on the beach,” she says. “In low season, it is really friendly here and everyone has more time for each other. It doesn’t actually rain as much as people think and the island doesn’t shut down completely. I love it here around this time.” This year, Red Snapper is shutting down for six weeks from mid-May, but Joyce and Ed intend to be back in business by early July. Until October, they intend to take a well-earned break every Tuesday and Wednesday. “I love the weather in low season,” she says. “Because of the rain, it’s not that hot. You have more time to have a chat with your friends and neighbours and it’s also nice to have more interaction with the customers in the restaurant. I find that the same people come back here every year and that people just don’t want to leave Koh Lanta!”

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Ed and Joyce Quarre enjoy interacting more with customers during low season.

English woman Mellisa Bunyan first came to Koh Lanta to run a dive centre on a six-month contract in October 2006. She loved the place so much that she became a partner in Blue Planet Divers by the end of her first dive season. “I had been working in Greece at the time and could either have gone to England or Thailand,” she says. “I had been to Thailand ten years ago, with a boyfriend in Koh Samui, but I didn’t know anything about Koh Lanta. I bought a share in the business in April, right at the end of the season, and expected to be inside all the time, watching videos and hiding from the rain, for the following six months!” Mellisa was pleasantly surprised by how little it actually rained during her first low season on the island and also by how much she actually enjoyed the monsoon rains. “It really shocked me, how little rain there was, even though it really was heavy when it did rain,” she says. “Most of us who live here really look forward to it; we start to get excited in March. People just seem to have more time for each other in low season. It’s kind of sad to just stop talking to people because you don’t have time. People who come here in low season really notice how much time we have to talk to each other.”

Darren Troy enjoys a relaxing afternoon at his Irish Embassy bar on Koh Lanta.

Instructor Mellisa Bunyan teaches two students at the Blue Planet Divers shop in Saladan.

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She has had a busy high season at Blue Planet and now she cannot wait for long days off, walking the dog on an empty beach, watching videos, or enjoying a few beers. “There’s always diving on the island, but it’s less predictable in low season because you cannot dive every day between May and October” she says. “We spend a month getting the boat ready and we do repairs to the shop. Last year we spent a month completely revamping the shop. But it was a social thing. We come in, do a few hours, and then have a couple of beers. We’ve got plenty of time.” Mellisa intends to keep her dive shop in Saladan open throughout low season, apart from September, which is usually the wettest month. She could go home to England, but all she wants to do is enjoy the most relaxing time of year on the island. “There’s nothing better than going to an empty beach to walk your dog and feeling like you own it. Parties are great, too, because everyone goes to the same bars. Koh Lanta feels more and more like home to me every year. I have four or five months off when the boat doesn’t go out, but all I want to do is stay on Koh Lanta!”


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Leap into the past

www.krabimagazine.net FREE COPY September 2008 issue 33

Tharnboke Koranee National Park

serves 4 "Tom" is soup, "Kha" is galangal, "Gai" is chicken. Galangal is now easy to get in most Asian shops at home. If you have a cookbook that says you can substitute it with ginger, well then that is outdated. Galangal gives a very nice distinctive taste to the soup, but remember this is a not-eat-me thing. This soup is an all around favorite for most people, adults and children alike. Usually it’s a mild soup when served with other Thai dishes, but you can always spice it up, of course. If you are not a big coconut fan, you can substitute some of the coconut cream with stock.

Cook with Junie

Text & Recipe from Time for Lime pictures: Time for Lime & Nancy Bundt

Ingredients 8 dl coconut cream/milk 2 dl stock 12 slices of galangal 3 stems lemon grass 8 kaffir lime leaves 7 Thai shallots, peeled (or one red onion) 3 small chilies, tortured (optional) 400 gr. chicken breast fillets, sliced in thin bite-size pieces 2 medium onions, sliced in 4 4 tbsp fish sauce pinch of salt 1 tbsp sugar 3 tomatoes, sliced in boats - remove most of the loose meat and seeds 2 spring onions, chopped 3cm lengths 3-4 tbsp lime juice Garnish: coriander leaves

Preparation 1. In a pot, bring to a boil the coconut cream, stock, galangal, lemongrass, kaffir leaves and shallots (add also chili if you want it a little or a lot spicy). Let it simmer for about 5 min. 2. Add chicken, onion, fish sauce, sugar and salt, let it simmer for about 5 min. 3. Add tomatoes and boil for about 20 seconds (if you let the tomatoes cook too long your soup will look similar to your white laundry wash where a red t-shirt has snuck itself in). 4. Turn off the heat; add spring-onions and then it’s TIME FOR LIME taste (it’s easier to add more lime juice than taking it out, so start with a little less). Be aware that if you cook the soup on too high heat and for too long it can both curdle and turn yellow; then again, some like it yellow - with a little flavoring added by fresh turmeric – very nice too. If you are a garlic lover, why not smash a few cloves and throw them in together with the other herbs. Enjoy your Tom Kha Gai!

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KOH LANTA YAI NORTH

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Krabi Real Estate : Architect Tips Story : Pierre-Yves Loriers

Ten for Ton On the occasion of the 10th anniversary of the founding of Ton Company Ltd, we talk to the managing director, Pierre-Yves Loriers, a.k.a. Ton, about the company’s origins and vision…

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arrived in Krabi in January 2000. Previously, I had only visited Thailand on a 10-day trip to Bangkok and Phuket. My preference at the time was for Vietnam, where I had plans to start a villa operation (Ton has a business school and service industry background, working for 12 years in The Peninsula Beverley Hills, a luxury hotel in Los Angeles), but after a month there I decided to explore other areas in the region. “At the time Krabi was definitely not ready for such a business – I remember how my friends laughed at me when I told them I wanted to buy a pineapple field on a dirt road 3km from the beach - but I saw the potential and believed development would eventually come. So I bought the land and settled down, first opening a restaurant, Café 154, which allowed me to meet people and become integrated into the local community. “In 2002, I built Baan Oriental on that pineapple field: the first pool villa to be built in Krabi that was specifically for the rental market, not to be lived in. It proved to be very popular and we started getting guests asking if we could design and build similar properties for their own use.

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“Following the experience I had building Baan Oriental – which was in fact extremely difficult and, at times, exhausting and stressful, due to the lack of skilled workers in Krabi – I decided to bring in outside staff to form a small team comprising of an architect and a draughtsman, as well as establish contacts with construction companies. The plan was to create a one-stop service to design, build and manage luxury homes. From the first project we handled, it became apparent that outsourcing key areas such as structural design was not ideal, so we added to the team an in-house engineer and two foremen, one of whom is a concrete specialist. “As the business has grown, we have added more architects, engineers and project managers to the core team, as well as expanded our associates to include skilled electricians, plumbers and tilers (to name just a few). We have worked with them so often they know exactly the standards we expect, as well as the way we like things done. I feel we can now take on any project, big or small, as we have the team in place to handle it.

“We now have more than 50 completed projects under our belts, and many more designs and blueprints ready for execution. We have also continued with the holiday villa management and have a dedicated team to oversee our expanding portfolio of properties. All of our clients thus also have the option of renting out their home with us. “My management experience is solid: I have created - and still lead - a thriving team of 20+ people, all of whom are specialists in their fields, and invested in the best equipment, tools and software to allow them to work to their full potential. I also have a sound knowledge of the luxury travel market and the needs of this type of client and I believe this range of coordinated expertise under one roof is unparalleled in Krabi. “In the future, as this segment of the market is still showing strong growth, I can see us doing more of the same type of work. Krabi is the perfect place for private holiday villas. They offer the combination of private outdoor living and personal service that allows you to take advantage of the area to the fullest. “Of course, I would like to do some bigger projects in the coming years, as well as start using new technologies (or at least new to Thailand), such as solar panels, to create more environmentally-friendly buildings, but in the end our vision is to create original, interesting and well-built homes, regardless of their size. We will continue to develop our business by investing in people as it is they who have the creativity and practicality to make this happen.”

Ton Company Ltd., with ten years of experience, is a leading manager and developer of exclusive holiday pool villas in Krabi, Thailand. For more information on the comprehensive villa design, construction and management services offered by Ton Company Ltd, please contact us at (075) 695-633 or by email at Ton@TonCompany.com. www.KrabiArchitect.com - www.TonCompany.com - www.KrabiVilla.com

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Construction Story by : The Lumyai Group Ld

Avoiding the avoidable

Part two: Pre-build

C

arrying on from last month magazine when we looked at negotiation techniques and bidding on the price. Your contractor should now present you with a standard breakdown of what works are going to be done and a completed, percentage, and payment plan. I’ll cover that area next week but first let’s go over some important things that can be overlooked prior to the build commencing. Between yourself and the contractor it needs to be made clear who is responsible for the following. Many contractors, especially foreign owned or managed companies will offer complete turnkey services. Helping you deal with all areas of the build from start to finish.

LAND CLEAR AND SITE PREPARATION If you have acquired a piece of land that resembles more of a forest than a clear lot, it is technically your responsibility to organize the logistics in clearing the land ready for build. That doesn’t mean the contractor won’t be able to assist you in this area, but keep in mind that his price might differ from that of others. Also it is worth keeping in mind those trees or whatever you have on your land carry a value. Rubber or hard wood can fetch a good price if negotiated well and will attract a lot of local interest. Landfill is an area of great importance that requires attention to detail. If your land is low-lying and needs to be filled, ask your builder for exact cubic measurements. This area has to be stated in the BOQ. Do have a good look over what they have allowed for in terms of quantity. There are many horror stories of people paying extortionate prices for what could have been easily avoided. Previous Palm or Coconut plantations are a potential breeding ground for termites. I have yet to come across an estimate that includes a price for treating land. It is your call to whether or not you feel it is necessary. For what is a small expense in terms of the build cost it could be worth it.

THE BUILDERS SITE CAMP Yes, people really do live in those steel shacks and from what I have noticed, seem too actually quite like it. Life is simple but certainly free of stress. The problem is though, do you want them living on your land and who is expected to pay for them? You are, and it should be priced clearly into the build quote. A team consisting of a number anywhere from five to twenty could be living on your land. If they are not, they are most probably living at a long-term camp. I knew of a guy in Bangkok that was having some work done on his house. Whilst returning from a business trip, he was greeted by family of workers that had been camping out in his garden since the beginning of the job. Ended up as good drinking friends I believe. The benefit of having workers living on site is that they act as 24/7 security guards. Materials can go astray and always remember that any wayward snakes that wander onto your land, get, well! Eaten.

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TEMPORARY ELECTRIC AND WATER METERS This can be a bit of a headache. If you’re building a house without a Thai partner that is. In order to get a temporary meter of any kind you need to apply at the relevant office. This requires lots of paperwork, plenty of patience and a little more paperwork. An officer will come down and survey your proposed temporary meter location and within a short while one will be connected. Tapping in to your neighbors supply is encouraged though! As long as you politely ask them and foot their monthly bill it can be a lot straighter forward and carries less paperwork. As the landowner it is up to you provide the power and water in order for your house to be constructed. This may require erecting your own electrical pylons if you’re planning on a build that is out in the sticks. Bills will also be required to pay and remember to ask because they do have a tendency to go absent without leave. This is the case once the house has been finished as well. Once you have received your Blue house book then you are ready to get connected. This article was supplied by The Lumyai group Ltd, a Development and Construction company based in Krabi. For all your Construction and Home renovation needs please contact our English speaking team for your free quote and any advice required. Please visit our web-site www.lumyaihomes.com to view our latest project.

The Lumyai Group LTD Development and Construction 1:100

Construction and Renovation Kitchen and Bathroom Re-modelling Auto CAD Structural Design Office Fitting and Refurbishment Seasonal Hotel and Restaurant Modification

For a free quote contact us 075 624 062

086 947 8262

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THANEE ATTORNEY & COUNSELER AT LAW

E-mail: thaneelaw@gmail.com

INTERNATIONAL LAW OFFICE STANDARDS YOU CAN TRUST

- Legal advisory - Project management - Company formation - Work permits - Visa and immigration - Business contracts and licenses - Wills and testaments

- Tax and accounting - Real estate expertise - Litigation and dispute resolution - Notary public - Marriages and divorces - Insurances - Mortgages


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EN: Thomas +66 (0) 89 9085990 TH: Ton +66 (0) 89 7727858 Web: www.aonanglivingroom.com Email: aonanglivingroomsales@gmail.com


Gardening

All about Compost WHAT IS COMPOST? Composting is the decomposition of organic material into humus. Backyard gardeners can use this natural phenomenon to their advantage to improve garden soils. Compost can be purchased or created in a home garden by recycling kitchen and garden waste. Composted materials make excellent mulches to cover or amend the soil. Using organic waste to make compost makes sound ecological sense. About thirty percent of the waste that reaches the landfill could be composted, lengthening the time that the landfill is useful. In addition, it improves the soil by increasing tilth, fertility, water holding capacity, and drainage.

MAKING COMPOST Composting can be a casual or scientific endeavor. Kitchen and yard wastes can be piled up in the garden and allowed plenty of time to decompose. More sophisticated systems use containers to turn and mix it to hasten decomposition. Organic wastes naturally decompose through microorganisms, insects and earthworm feeding which break it down. To function properly, the decomposing organisms need oxygen, water, nitrogen and heat mixed into the organic matter. If the right amounts of oxygen and water are incorporated, the decomposition takes place rapidly and the mixture heats enough to kill weed seeds and plant disease pathogens.

DO-IT-YOURSELF COMPOST Incorporate air into the mixture to hasten the decay process and keep it from developing foul odors. Compost should be turned frequently to keep oxygen levels high enough. The faster the process takes place, the better the source of fertilizer it becomes. When creating compost, you should add nitrogen fertilizer to the composting mix to hasten the decomposition process. A ratio of one part nitrogen per fifteen to thirty parts compost is about the right mix. Using the easiest method of composting, make a pile of organic wastes, turn it periodically to keep oxygen levels high and reduce foul odors, and let nature do the rest. The resulting compost will improve soil tilth, but will not be as high in fertilizer value as compost made using more sophisticated methods. A compost bin makes the process tidier and more efficient. Make the bin about six feet high, and three to four feet square. Use building materials that allow air to get into the composting mixture such as wire, or board slats with air spaces between slats. Add moisture and a few handfuls of lime each week to speed up the process. Other sophisticated bins and plans are available.

COMPOSTING MADE EASY Over the years I’ve seen various ways to make great compost. My mother has a knack for finding just the right mix of everyday items to create her own back yard compost pile. The mix includes kitchen waste (carrot peel, banana peels, egg shells, potato skins, etc.) grass clippings, fallen leaves and twigs, and of course, any “nuggets� the neighborhood dogs happen to leave behind. Frequently mixing and turning pile helps provide enough air to the mixture to create quality compost and keeps the pile from emitting less than pleasant odors.

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The Property Guru

Investing Matters I

n this month’s article, our Property Guru attempts to address some of the issues that may be unfamiliar to investors in Thailand

In Thailand, often an investor is forced to ask whether a particular issue is a Thai convention or simply a commercial ruse designed to test the limit of an investor’s willingness to commit to a deal that it perhaps would view in a different light (not a tropical light perhaps) in its own jurisdiction. This article examines commercial issues that frequently appear in a transaction and then provides a legal analysis of the position.

REAL PRICE/ACTUAL PRICE The type of due diligence required in a transaction is currently well documented. An investor will engage lawyers and other advisers to look after this aspect of their interests, but then may find that in relation to matters they didn’t expect to have to consult advisers, they end up doing so on the basis that there are some commercially unusual practices that raise surprise and sometimes, confusion. The first matter that an investor deals with is price, which can comprise of more than one element. After negotiating the price for a unit, a signature may be placed on a reservation contract or even a sales contract. A foreign investor may well expect that on the day of title transfer, there will be a simple matter of handing over monies (cashier’s check or even cash) and receiving title or a Thai company receiving title if it is a co-investor or investor into a pure Thai landowning company. However, unless the allocation of transfer fees, registration fees and duties has been apportioned, there may be a last minute scramble in which the investor may not have enough time nor the stamina to negotiate a fair 50:50 allocation. It can come as a surprise to a foreign investor, when a seller may expect, without having included the expectation in a sales contract, that the investor bears the cost of the seller’s income tax. The concept seems alien to a foreign investor and it is evident why. In a buoyant market where investors are sometimes scrambling for the same piece of real estate, a seller may well feel it can attempt to sell without incurring any expense at all. The simple answer to this issue is to express it in the contract. It may bear surprise from some sellers who wouldn’t attempt to pass this cost on, but the inclusion of it will weed out those sellers who are waiting to use it as a last minute beating tool.

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If such a delay occurred in an investor’s home jurisdiction as a result of an attempt to pass on income tax liability by the seller to the investor, the seller’s lawyer may advise the seller this is not a sensible course of action and could result in litigation. The advice a seller received in Thailand may be different, on the basis that foreign investors do not wish to force sales through litigation or dispute resolution. Often, there is the matter of whether a deposit will actually ever be returned or not which binds an investor’s hands. The final anomaly which is tantamount to a tax issue, but real estate lawyers and law firms often observe this issue, is the difference between the ‘real price’ and the minimum assessed value of a property. It is evident that if a Thai company registers a purchase at a value of ‘x’ which is an undervaluation (land and building) and sells at ‘y’ the greater the difference between ‘x’ and ‘y’ the larger the corporation tax burden upon sale of the property out of the Thai company. Tax advisers and accountants have legitimate ways of reducing this burden, by offsetting loans into the company against the profit, but there is a limit. How will a buyer know if the registered price of a unit is actually reasonable and legal? The answer is actually they ought to be the same or as close to depending on the land offices’ view on what may be accepted. The land office will accept lower values, but that does not constitute a rubber stamp of approval by the Revenue Department, which all parties would be well advised to remember is a separate entity to the land office.

NEW BUILDINGS – NAME ON A CONSTRUCTION PERMIT A building can be legitimately owned by a foreigner. In order to register a new building into a foreigner’s name, a construction permit must be provided to the Local Authority in order to allow the Tabien Baan (House Registration Document) to be issued. The Architect or contractors name should be the name on the original construction permit. At the end of the building process this document is used to facilitate registration of ownership of the building. There is sometimes a misconception that the construction permit is somehow ‘sold’ to an investor, but it is actually the building that is sold. Again, in relation to tax applicable to land when a Thai company and a foreign investor is involved, an investor must understand that there is a difference in the tax treatment of a building, which can be depreciate over time, and land which is obviously rising in value the more buoyant the real estate market becomes. Valuations do allow flexibility in apportionment, but any allocation that appears disproportionate or abnormal an investor should take the time to seek accounting advice on. Investors should be cautions of the words “This is normal in Phuket, Krabi, Koh Samui, Pattaya, etc” and check with an international firm with qualified Thai professionals working in that organization, as to the real position. The laws of Thailand apply to the whole Kingdom of Thailand and it may be local regulations – such as building restrictions that may cause differences, but there are no provinces in Thailand that have blanket exemptions from tax liability.


DISPUTES – LEGAL AGAINST COMMERCIAL REALITY Lawyers, when first trained in dispute resolution, are asked to consider the ‘bargaining strength’ of the parties, the ‘maximum loss’ a client can be exposed to, the ‘best possible outcome v the minimum acceptable outcome’ and cost/benefit analysis so that they fully understand both the legal and commercial issues which will affect a dispute in terms of potential for resolution, likelihood of litigation and ultimately after considerable expense and time – probability of success. In a real estate transaction, the minds of each party at the outset are not centered on litigation or more appropriately – what were to happen if there is a dispute but a lawyer’s mind should have already considered it and advised the client accordingly. Bargaining strength in the Thai real estate market is influenced by numerous factors but include: knowledge of what the correct legal position should be; where the monies are (with the seller, 10% with the seller, 90% with the seller) at the point of dispute; the strength of the contract and potential for re-imbursement of costs and compensation upon successful dispute resolution (sellers who are afraid of penalties are most likely to breach), nationality and local knowledge and the ‘human factor’ – stubbornness which should never be underestimated. A legal advisor should quickly be able to assess whether there is any potential ‘win: win’ outcome to a dispute and if there isn’t should then be able to advise if disputing a point is not only legally justified but commercially worth it. This leads to another point – who are you bargaining with? Reputational risk is an important factor in the behavior of a seller. It is worth remembering that not just in Thailand but also in all jurisdictions, a one-off transaction with little possibility of the parties doing business together again is the ultimate ‘let the buyer beware’ situation. The ‘Art of War’ would be a book well read or refreshed in the buyer’s mind prior to contemplating a one-off transaction. Although a transaction should never appear to be war, ultimately, there is normally a winner and then a winner who won less in terms of value that was expected. When dealing with an established developer, it is less likely that a developer will be prissy regarding small points if they are seeking to develop their

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client base – but with an individual seller, not much regard will normally be had to whether expecting a buyer to pay income tax for the seller is reasonable or fair even when it has not been documented. If an investor has already parted with the majority of the investment price and a dispute arises, the type of legal advice an investor receives should be couched to take account of what the investor stands to lose if the seller starts to act unreasonably and reneges, illegally terminating the contract on spurious grounds (a common occurrence when a seller is in the ‘wrong’) thereby immediately provoking litigation and costs perhaps well in excess of the subject matter of the dispute. Is it worth it? When no monies have exchanged hands, an investor would be advised to at least appear to walk away from a deal when a seller behaves unreasonably because after all, there are surely a lot of residential units ripe for investment that might involve less burden or issues where a seller behaves reasonably. Be prepared for differences, stand firm on the maximum acceptable exposure v dispute resolution cost. To get a deal across the line, even when another party is in the wrong, may cost as an example THB 150,000 in additional expense. Where business between the parties is never likely to occur again, after a ‘holding out’ period in which one party tests the others stamina, the commercial reality of a deal may mean that in contravention of a convention, one party may have to accept expense it shouldn’t have to. However, if minds are applied to common misunderstandings at the beginning of a transaction and included in a contract, such disputes can be minimized or even completely avoided. Sellers may complain when their standard contract includes clauses that positively state the obvious ‘the seller must be responsible for its own income tax’ but whilst sellers exist who attempt to subvert these norms to their own advantage, such provisions become necessary. Seasoned sellers will appreciate an investor’s concern and if genuine in intent, will not be concerned about additional attention to detail.


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Buyers Guide

Exotiq unveils a new identity

E

xotiq, South East Asia’s resort focused lifestyle company, has just unveiled its new corporate look.

In 2009, Exotiq, the Bali/Phuket based company, reorganized into three business divisions; property, holidays and furniture retailing. “We recognized a unique value chain for customers looking to holiday, invest and then live in exotic parts of the world” noted Angus MacLachlan, founding partner and CEO for Thailand. “Having built up a sizable brokerage business in the region, we see the opportunity to laterally expand into the holiday and interior furnishing businesses”. To graphically represent the brand in these new business areas, Exotiq engaged Equus Design, the leading Singapore based brand consultants, to create a blueprint and new logo identity for the company. “Our brief was to create a new look for Exotiq which would elevate their positioning in the marketplace” explained Alex Mucha, Partner at Equus. “‘Exotiq’ is a distinctive name, and needed little adornment. We therefore developed lettering for the logotype with elegant classic proportions and good legibility.” Once a new brand blueprint was completed, the designers set about creating a logotype to properly represent the character of the Exotiq brand. The chosen motif actually started life as an orchid but morphed into a humming bird. “We coupled the logotype with a symbol of a hovering hummingbird; the hummingbird’s delicate grace reminds us that life is rich, beauty is everywhere, every personal connection has meaning and that laughter is life’s sweetest creation.” continued Mucha.

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The three business divisions all follow the same logotype but are differentiated by a different colour of motif. The real estate business has also been re-named from Exotiq Real Estate to the more concise ‘Exotiq Property’. ‘Enriching Life’ was chosen as the main corporate tagline. “We felt that ‘enriching life’ best encapsulates what we offer. Customers discover exotic parts of the world on one of our holidays, they invest with the help of our property brokerages and they enjoy their new homes with our interior furnishing products” explained Dominique Gallmann, Exotiq co-founder and CEO for Indonesia. The next few months will see all Exotiq offices change over to the new look, a series of innovative websites are in development and the full launch of Exotiq Holidays will take place. Exotiq Property operates 12 offices in 7 South East Asian resorts, Exotiq Holidays currently offers private villa holidays in Bali, Krabi and Phuket and Exotiq Living in Hua Hin is the company’s first interior design and furnishing store. For more information on Exotiq in Krabi contact Thomas on 66 (0) 89 9085990 or email thomas@exotiqrealestate.com

Exotiq Krabi Real Estate Brokers 247/13 moo 5, Ao Nang, 81000 Krabi • [T] +66 75 637459 • [F] +62 75 637460 • [M] +66 89 9085990 • [E] Thomas@exotiqrealestate.com • [W] http://www.exotiqrealestate.com

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Press

Welcome to NewspaperDirect in Asia

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elcome to the world of international newspapers - welcome to the world of NewspaperDirect. Now, you can get your favorite newspaper in Asia on the date of publication! NewspaperDirect offers a unique selection of over 1,500 Newspapers from 93 countries in 44 languages; through the innovative technology of the NewspaperDirect global digital network, same-day editions of internationally recognized newspapers are available in print in their original layout. Already available in over 100 countries through a global network of distributors, the newspaper Print-on-Demand service is suitable for individual subscribers, retail outlets, hotels & resorts, cruise ships, airlines, corporate offices, libraries, educational institutions, events and private yachts. Order your favorite newspaper online at www.NewspaperDirect-Asia.com, selecting Thailand/Krabi. On placing your order, you will receive an automatically generated confirmation e-mail. Your newspaper will then delivered on the requested day by courier to your home or hotel. There is an easy to use feature for long term subscriptions, with discounts available according to duration of subscription.

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