Namibia
bug game hunting
TA
Steve and Ann Toon are UK-based wildlife photographers and journalists with a specialist interest in wildlife, conservation issues and southern Africa. They are regular contributors to Travel Africa.
Dancing spiders and sidewinder snakes, tok tokkie beetles and goggle-eyed chameleons – Namibia’s arid landscapes come to life when Steve and Ann Toon follow in the tracks of some spellbinding secret wildlife...
Namaqua chameleon These fast-moving critters can see in both directions at once and change colour according to mood and conditions. They are normally dark in the morning to help them warm up and lighter later on in the day to reflect the heat.
64 Travel Africa Autumn 2013
e wait until the heat dies down a little before heading out across the vast sandy plains of the Namib desert. A small band of nervous pioneers, stuffed with cake and coffee, eagerly clutching our bags of trail-mix and continually double-checking the water bottles balanced in our backpacks, fall into line behind Sebastiaan Kazimbu, our guide for the next three days. We’re trekking at a leisurely pace on a trail through the NamibRand reserve in southern Namibia. At more than 200,000ha, it is one of southern Africa’s largest private reserves. But this walking safari is definitely not about ticking off your classic ‘big and hairies’. We’re hoping to get closer to the fascinating little critters that usually get overlooked on safari – the stuff you don’t realise exists until you marvel at it up close. As the low sun paints the desert’s customary pastels with the vibrant orange the colour of Irn Bru, we trudge inexpertly through the sand, seemingly collecting a tonne of it in each and every shoe. Suddenly Sebastiaan darts to the ground and starts grubbing in the sand. He’s just, very deftly, caught hold of our first secret desert star by its spindly, long legs – limbs perfect for running across super-heated sand. It’s a tok tokkie beetle, the trail’s namesake and the first of many different tok tokkie species we meet during our trek. There are about 200 species all told in Namibia, and some 20 make their home here in the arid dunes. Their name comes from the ‘tokking’ sound when they bump their rear end on the sand to attract a mate. We lean in for a closer look. This one’s the wonderfully
named ‘waxy darkling beetle’. It looks just like it’s wearing stone-washed denim, until Sebastiaan wets its carapace and it instantly turns dark indigo. Watched from a distance by a chilled and rather curious male oryx, we study the delicate train tracks tok tokkie beetles make when jaywalking around these dunes. Once you start looking at the sand this forensically you see that the dunes are etched everywhere with tracks and trails, criss-crossing each other like busy commuter traffic: pinprick prints of a diminutive mouse; sinuous ripples of a sidewinding snake; escape tunnels of the golden mole, excavated while swimming under the sand like a mini Michael Phelps; a scorpion’s purposeful tracks; and on and on... We learn how to distinguish fresh tracks from older ones, where sand grains gradually soften before eventually erasing the imprint. Sebastiaan calls evidence of the daily comings and goings when the dunes get written over with new scrawl, the ‘Namib Times’. Only he’s much more skilled at reading this newspaper than we’ll ever be, quickly spotting the stories written by the likes of a horned adder, a dune lark (endemic to the region) and even a male leopard who had been walking ahead of us on the trail just a few hours earlier. If you thought deserts were, well, deserted, you’d certainly be forced to think again after this. We found sections of it busier than a DIY superstore on a bank holiday, with hyperactive bulldozer beetles furiously
We’re hoping to get closer to the fascinating little critters that usually get overlooked on safari – the stuff you don’t realise exists until you marvel at it up close
Autumn 2013 Travel Africa 65