N° 15/11 EDITION
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THE WORLD’S LEADING HAIR FASHION MAGAZINE
FASHION Cape Town Fashion Week EVENT Colour Trophy 2011 ROUND TABLE Tech Chat
1 5 TH E D I T I O N 2011
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15/11
ISSUE NO.15
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A TOPCO MEDIA PUBLICATION
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In conjunction with the Cancer Association of South Africa. For more information please contact your ghd Account Manager. ghdhair.com 086 010 9366 R100 donation to CANSA* with every Pink Orchid Limited Edition sold, featuring the limited edition ghd Gold Series Classic styler with vibrant pink plates and accents, protective plate guard, pink and black lace heat resistant styler case and two ghd sectioning clips *R100 of every unit sold up until 30 September 2011 will be donated to the Cancer Association of South Africa NPO 000-524
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C O N T E N T S ESTETICA FASHION No. 15/11 – FIFTEENTH EDITION
Published by Topco Media 5th Floor Pinnacle Building Strand Street Cape Town Ph: 086 000 9590 Fax: 021 423 7876 Email: info@estetica.co.za Website: www.estetica.co.za
9
Editors Letter
10
Catwalk
14
Fashion: Cape Town Fashion Week
18
Exhibition: Polaroid by Newton
20
Nails: Artistic Inspiration
23
Beauty: Women
25
Beauty: Men
26
Shooting: Manly Milieu
30
Trends: Sneaker Story
32
Vision: Smoke and mirrors
34
Vision: Cosmic Trip
STAFF Publisher Richard Fletcher
Estetica Moda: International Trends 40
Spanish Revolution
42
Male Collection
Editor Cindy Horton
52
Best Young Hairdresser
62
Hairdresser of the Year
Chief Sub-Editor Shaheema Albertyn-Burton
68
Fashion Commercial
78
Avant Garde
88
Technique: Step by Step
90
Event: Glitz and Glam
92
Event: Hair Brasil
94
Event: Colour Trophy 2011
96
Interview: Heidi van der Berg
98
Business: Technological Assistance
General Manager Ralf Fletcher
Sub -Editor Thulile Nxumalo Design Jayne Mace´ Talbot Ferguson Advertising & Business Development Manager Lizel Jonker Distribution Manager Van Fletcher
102 Dossier: Smoothing Products CONTRIBUTORS Photography Simon Deiner / SDR Photography Printers Paarl Media Paarl
106 Interview: A cut above the rest 108 Innovation: Techno-phobia 112 Round Table: Tech Chat 114 Interview: Antoinette Beenders 116 Agenda 120 News 123 Products 126 Subscriptions 128 Stockists
Published under licence from Estetica, Edizioni Esav srl, Turin/Italy
The ideal professional hair colour product for men, 100% ammonia free and formulated specifically for the modern man! Lisap Man will mask white hair in just 5 minutes, and has no re-growth as it will gradually fade after 5-6 weeks.
LISAP MAN FORMULATION
The colour is enhanced with a Phytoenhancer and Ginseng extract. Lisap Man has built in protection that will give an ‘anti-age’ effect for your hair. Ceramide A2 strengthens the hair and makes it shine. Lisap Man has 5 natural shades: Brown, Dark Chestnut, Chestnut, Light Chestnut and Dark Blonde.
Icon Hair Cosmetics is proud to introduce our product range in the Cape! Contact Martie Grant for more information:
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10/3/11 4:51:46 PM
e D i t o r i a l Hair: Scott Smurthwaite & Will Eagles @ cream Photo: Andrew O’Toole Styling: Shyla Hassan Make-up: Victoria Baron
The excitement throughout South Africa was electrifying as we bid farewell and good luck to the Springboks, when they left for the 2011 Rugby World Cup in New Zealand. A few days before our first match, I noticed a wave of South African flags spreading across all forms of social media as people changed there profile pictures and status names in support of our international team. I instinctively logged onto Google to try and find a flag to follow suit. I settled on a gorgeous 3D flag, which was slightly different to everyone else. Once this had become my bbm (Blackberry messenger - for those of you who haven’t converted) profile picture, I noticed how quickly my ‘friends’ stole my image. My surprise was not caused by my friends lack of originality, but by the rapid speed that the image had traveled.
In this edition, we explore many uses of social media within your business.
I realised how immediate and fast news and information travels through social media, and how influential this can be. Not only has this become a form of communication among friends, but an essential business marketing tool. In this edition, we explore many uses of social media within your business. In Technophobia, page 108-111, we discover how companies around the world are using this form of communication to their benefit. ESTETICA chats to local hair salon owners in the Round Table Discussion, page 112-113, on the advantages and disadvantages of social media, and how it has influenced their business. To add to the excitement of the 2011 Rugby World Cup, ESTETICA is proud to introduce the very first ESTETICA AFRO supplement. Staying true to our South African roots, we have published a gorgeous supplement that contains relevant ethnic information, advice, product reviews, news, local, and international talent. My flag is still flying high in support of our boys, and will be no matter the results. Nothing can beat the sense of national camaraderie and unity that comes from an event like this. Go bokke!
Cindy Horton ESTETICASOUTHAFRICA|9
Spring
D&G
Etro
Erdem
Marras
D&G
Erdem
D&G
Fascination
Kenzo
Bursting with colour. Poppies, peonies, carnations. All print or in details. Viva the greenhouse effect! - if it’s the right one.
Blugirl
Wunderkind
Jean Paul Gaultier
Una extensa gama de colores nos presentan looks muy varia. Todo vale si se combina con toques de luz. Jil Sander
Love Sex Money
SO REAL YOU CAN ALMOST SMELL THEM. SPRINGTIME BOUQUET.
First fruits of the season: flowers everywhere. Then comes country charm, in a farm-trend that’s brand new. Followed by crochet-mania. From beachwear to the classic cardigan.
f a s h i o n
Betsey Johnson
Betsey Johnson
Just Cavalli
Versus
D&G
Una extensa gama de colores nos presentan looks muy varia. Todo vale si se combina con toques de luz.
Oscar De La Renta
Miss Bikini Luxe
Maurizio Pecoraro
Contagious flower-power. From shorts to short puffy dresses, everyone’s a flower child. Nothing country, please. Only noble blooms‌
E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A | 11
Alexander McQueen
Ashish
Moschino
D&G
Picnic tablecloths, all-American Stetsons. Rural appeal, cowboy boots meant for walking.
RURAL SIMPLICITY AND RUSTIC CHARM. GINGHAM HITS THE RUNWAYS.
D&G
Versus
Betsey Johnson
D&G
Wunderkind
Ashish
Una extensa gama de colores nos presentan looks muy varia. Todo vale si se combina con toques de luz.
Salvatore Ferragamo
Ermanno Scervino
Moschino
Emilio Pucci
Photo: Juri Romano Studio
Emilio Pucci
Handmade design: strategic transparencies, do-it-yourself charm. A touch of the Sixties, vintage revisited.
Les Copains
f a s h i o n
Salvatore Ferragamo
Enticing springtime. Dress code? Homespun. Dreamy aspirations, high-voltage romance
Emilio Pucci
Sonia Rykiel
Gucci
D&G
Una extensa gama de colores nos presentan looks muy varia. Todo vale si se combina con toques de luz. Laura Biagiotti
Moschino
IT’S CROCHET-MANIA. GLAMOROUS “THREADS”. SEXY VINTAGE
E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A | 13
Cape Town
FashionWeek Abigail Betz
Gavin Rajah
A rainbow of colour flowed down the catwalk making colour an obvious trend this spring/summer. Michelle Ludek, Habits and Tart stuck to the strong colour theme with collections in a multitude of shades. Dax Martin’s swimwear mixed contrasting tones, patterns and colours which colours, which created a playful collection. Abigail Betz stayed on the softer side of things, producing feminine and romantic floor length dresses in varying shades of white, pastel pink and black that portrayed a timeless era of elegance. Gavin Rajah’s packed show featured 30 models and more than 100 garments inspired by the east and in a variety of luxurious fabrics and textures.
14| E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A
Reality star, Dr Robert Rey’s lingerie show was much anticipated, and a feast for the eyes. Models clad in lace, mesh, ribbon, floral and a hint of burnt orange garments graced the catwalk. Kimora Lee Simmon, in the country to celebrate her Destiny magazine cover, was present in the audience.
One of the most creative and innovative shows this year was held offsite at the recently refurbished and uber-chic Bromwell Boutique Mall in Woodstock. Live static models were scattered throughout the venue draped in gorgeous couture designs created by David Thale. Monogramatic garments with playful form and structure in a variety of textures. The collection was teamed with avant-garde red make-up and elaborate hairstyles. Once again, local South African designers out did themselves by producing inspirational designs that were unique to each creator. Roberto Verino
F
ashionista’s from around the world flocked to the mother city to attend the Cape Town Fashion Week spring/summer 2011/12 show on the 14 – 16 July 2011. The three day fashion event saw local designers showcase their trend predictions for the season ahead.
Devota & Lomba
The Cape Town Convention Centre played host to this year’s Cape Town Fashion Week spring/summer 2011/12.
Danielle Margaux
Tart
Lisp
Victorio & Lucchino
Danielle Margaux
Michelle Ludek
f a s h i o n
WW
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Cigar Industry, Milan 1997
Polaroid by Newton
300 Polaroid pictures at a photography exhibition in Berlin show how Helmut Newton was a maestro of posing, even with instant shots. Immortalising the moment.
by Petra Weinzierl
E X H I B I T I O N
T
Focus Magazine, Milan 1997
Harder confirms that usually Newton took few photos in the initial stages of preparation. It was only in a series of shots ‘Naked and Dressed’ (taken in 1981 for the French and Italian editions of Vogue) that Newton took rolls and rolls of shots, as he himself declared. The models were immortalised in movement, first dressed and then immediately naked, but always in the same position. The comments around the borders are also interesting – comments on the models, clients, the place where the photo was taken and/or the date. But whatever happened to those original Polaroid pictures? Once generously given away to clients and models, today they are important collector’s items of a true maestro’s work, with immense historic value.
Instant perfection – photographer Helmut Newton used Polaroid shots to check the actual lighting conditions and the set-up of the posed picture, whether he was working for designers Thierry Mugler and Yves Saint Laurent or for magazines or advertising campaigns.
Paris 1997
French Vogue, Paris 1981
Paris Match, Monte Carlo 1985
hose magic seconds. One minute lasted 90 seconds, the time necessary for a Polaroid camera to produce a photo. Helmut Newton, one of the most influential and legendary photographers of all time, used Polaroid shots as drafts and ideas for his final masterpiece – his unmistakeable visual compositions. The exhibition ‘Helmut Newton Polaroids’ at the Photography Museum of the Helmut Newton Foundation in Berlin will present more than 300 polaroid shots. June Newton, widow of the artist who died in 2004, selected the collection from thousands of instant shots: “When I suggested that he organise an exhibition and that he should put some material together, he was dead set against the idea”. Curator Matthias Harder says: “From the 70s, Newton developed an intensive technique, especially during fashion shoots. Behind his work (as he himself declared in an interview) was an impelling need to see the photographic results immediately.
E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A | 19
Ruffian - Courtesy of CND
Artistic Inspiration
Mere manicures have become a thing of the past, and runways and red carpets today abound with nail art playing an increasingly important role in the overall look.
by Marie Scarano
G Sessilee Lopez / Gottex - Courtesy of CND
Today manufacturers offer a wide range of acrylics, colours, and even special effect finishes, not to mention accessories like rhinestones, pearls, flowers, and other beads.
iven the advent of miraculous nail product technologies, including gels, quick-drying polishes, special finishing effects, and a vast array of new colours that are always right on trend, manicures and professional nail products are finally coming into their own, playing all-important supporting roles in the overall look of top models, television and movie stars, and other VIP personalities on runways, red carpets, album covers and elsewhere. When Rihanna decided that she wanted a moon manicure with just a little drama, celebrity manicurist Kimmie Kyees put down a layer of Ez Flow Gelez Buff (a subtle, shimmery nude gel polish) first, and then added a vibrant coat of ibd Red Velvet Gelac (deep, shimmery maroon gel polish) on top. CND dominated NY Fashion Week with perfect pearly nails on Sessilee Lopez for Gottex, a spiffy new take on a white and black French design for Ruffian, and even more elaborate nail art for Diego Binetti. When Christina Ricci graced the red carpet in front of the Metropolitan Museum of Art for the annual Costume Institute Gala in a custom creation by Zac Posen,
Courtesy of CND
CND does VIP nails on runways to complete the ultimate look to perfection.
Courtesy of OPI
N A I L S
her stunning silhouette was complemented by another custom element – her OPI - lacquered nails. Ricci’s manicure was created by mixing Samoan Sand and I’m Suzi and I’m a Chocoholic for an earth-toned rosy brown hue. It’s not only a question of colour, but also of shape and bling, from retro and romantic for brides,and anything from short and sweet to nails carefully lengthened and sculpted into elegantly tapered forms for either special occasions or every-day wear. Whether you are looking for a special occasion or long-lasting looks that are easier to maintain thanks to super new products, today every detail of your look counts, from shoesto style, brows to bling, and mane to manicure. E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A | 21
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B E A U T Y
Sparkling
Spring
Maybelline
Revlon
Incoco
Yves Saint Laurent
Carducci
Brighten up your days by adding an unimaginable sparkle to your finger tips and a sheer shine to your lips. Indulge in fruity flavours and flirty, fun scents.
Acquizhen
Almay
Sensai
From left: Decorate your nails in the most amazing patterns, colours and effects with Incoco self-stick 100% nail polish strips. The Yves Saint Laurent Touche Éclat highlighter and corrector brightens and refreshes the eyes. Add a hint of colour and a delicious fruity scent to your lips with Revlon’s Super Lustrous Lip Balm in Pink Crystal. The Pearls by Colorsensational Maybelline will give your lips a sheer sparkle of colour with a heavenly scent.
Habits
Guerlain
Katy Perry
Burberry
Lalesso
From left: Kinetin plant extracts found in the Almay Kinetin Range help reverse, delay and prevent the visible signs of ageing. In one minute, the Sensai Silky Purifying Silk Peeling Mask from Kanebo provides a gentle exfoliation while moisturising the skin. The new ACQUIZHEN range by Doctor Erich Schulte combines accurate science with the best of nature.
From left: The effortlessly sensual notes of rose and iris combined with woody top notes create the Burberry Body fragrance which reflects the attitude and energy of the Burberry girl. The fun and flirty celebrity fragrance Purr, from Katy Perry, is presented in a cute purple cat bottle and has strong fruity notes that settle into a sandalwood and vanilla scent. Shalimar Parfum Initial from Guerlain is an amber floral which unfolds into a complex, mercurial and utterly alive fragrance.
E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A | 23
• Reduce hair loss Silver Shampoo: Formulated to provide vitamins and moisture, not only to ageing hair, but to blonde hair too.
Multi-Purpose Conditioner: Specially formulated for multiple levels of deep conditioning beauty treatment. The longer you leave it in, the greater the level of conditioning.
Conditioning Blow Wave Lotion: Revitalises lifeless hair, while adding silkiness and healthy shine without weight or residue.
Super Hold Glaze Hair Spray: Provides amazing volume, strong hard hold, texture and shine, and helps shape and control hair. Honey Suckle Shampoo: Moisturiser and nutrient, improves hair texture, replenishes and adds a soft floral scent.
Honey Suckle Conditioner: Provides deep conditioning, protects and softens hair texture. Replenishes moisture and adds a soft floral scent. Glazing Styling Gel: Provides non-greasy shine, detangles and perks up colour, ideal for use with flat irons, light reflecting formula, protects, softens and conditions hair. Eliminates static electricity and leaves your hair manageable without hold.
Double Action Shampoo: Strengthens, smoothes and maintains colour. For chemically treated hair.
Double Action Conditioner: Rebuilds strength and elasticity for chemically treated hair. Gloss Spray: Gives a dazzling finish to your style. * Imparts a crystal clear layer of polish and dazzling shine. * Smooth unruly flyaways for a silky, smooth profile. * Finish your style or refresh tired, dull hair.
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Ideal for ethnic hair: * Improves the shine and natural health of your hair. * Moisturises, silkens, softens, controls frizz and is perfect for curly and multi-textured hair types.
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B E A U T Y
Revitalising
Start
Decleor
Vichy
L’Oéal Paris
Carducci
Welcome new opportunities, warmer days and fresh ideas. Revitalise the body and mind. Treat yourself and indulge in the latest men’s products and accessories.
Fabiani
Guess Man
Armani
Issey Miyake
From left: L’Oréal Paris Men Expert Vita Lift Foaming Cleansing Cream is soap-free and will cleanse the skin without drying. Fight the signs of fatigue and give your skin a moisture recharge with Vichy Hydra Mag C moisturising cream. Use the Decleor Arômessence Homme Triple Action Shave Perfector Serum before shaving to lift ingrown hairs and improve razor glide and after shaving to soften the skin and soothe razor burn.
From left: Inspired by water the L’Eau D’Issey pour Homme by Issey Miyake is invigorating and bursting with energy and citrus notes. Armani Sport Code radiates freshness, adrenaline and seduction at the same time, owing to its aromatic, woody composition and refreshes with invigorating notes of lemon, mandarin and mint. Inspired by the Guess Man lifestyle, Guess Man Eau de toilette is a fresh, clean and sensual fragrance with attitude like never before.
Timex
Oakley
Fabiani
Prada
From left: Remain on trend this spring with the latest frames from Oakley and Prada. Timex® Ironman® Global Trainer™ Bodylink® System, a GPS-enabled competitive training tool designed for passionate athletes worldwide. E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A | 25
Manly
Milieu
The thing about working with pros is that they make it look soooo easy! If only you knew! ESTETICA takes a look behind the scenes of the Paul Mitchell photo shoot in Milan.
A
Watch the video on your mobile With the QR-Code you can enter the backstage of the photo shoot
ESTETICASHOOT! www.facebook.com/ estetica.it www.youtube.com/ esteticatv
t 9am Milan’s splendid Palazzo Bernasconi is already a buzz with a variety of gorgeous male models in various stages of deshabillé with the wardrobe team frenetically seeking just the right touch for each one: a signature yellow scarf, socks, or T-shirt. Robert Cromeans, Paul Mitchell Global Artistic Director has everything under control, with his international dream team of Diana Schmidtke – specialist in men’s grooming and Giuseppe Petrelli and Konstantin Schick from a flagship JPMS salon in Germany. Nanette Bercu, SVP and Creative Director and Robert Yates, VP of Marketing, mull about keeping a finger on the pulse and consulting with Cromeans and the team as necessary. The energy level is off the charts. The photos from this shoot will launch the new JPMS line of products exclusively for men: Mitch. Nanette explains that the concept is that Mitch is every man, from any and all walks of life, any ethnicity, any age… and what better place to find such a diversified group than Milan – the ultimate cosmopolitan city – and in collaboration with EsteticaNetwork. One of the ideas is to shoot three different looks for each model. For mere mortals, this would seem to
by Marie Scarano
be impossible as most of them have neat short cuts. Yet Petrelli, Schick, and Schmidtke – with the help of the cutting-edge line of Mitch styling products – work wonders, their hands deftly rubbing, pressing, pulling, twisting, lifting, smoothing, and sculpting each model’s hair. Even the models themselves are stunned at their transformation. The photographer clicks away, with Takashi Kitamura, International Educator and Platform Artist for Paul Mitchell right behind him. His minute figure moving lithely to capture a vast archive of backstage shots. So go ahead. Dream of a relaxing afternoon sipping beer at an outdoor café along the fashionable Navigli district of Milan on a balmy spring day, watching pretty girls walk by. But remember, appearances can be deceiving!
s h o o t i n g
The Mitch man is a citizen of the world
Hair: Robert Cromeans, Diana Schmidtke, Takashi and Giuseppe Petrelli for Paul Mitchell Photo: Raul Zini Backstage photo: Sergio Alfredini Make-up: Giovanni Iovine Styling: Maida Coordination: PMS by Estetica
E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A | 27
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Sneaker
Story
From down in the hood, US side, to uptown street style in Japan. Sneakers have come a long way to get to the number one shoe position. And they just keep on walking…
O
“Kicks Japan”: by Manami Okazaki & Geoffrey Johnson. Out in paperback July 2011, ed. Mark Batty Publishing (NYC).
30| E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A
nce upon a time, there was the simple sneaker. Basic, practical, economic, and generally simple. Then the world of hip-hop took it for its own. Celebs like Run DMC turned Adidas Superstars into iconic symbols, and the new obsession was further fuelled by sports stars like Michael Jordan, whose collaboration with Nike brought about the legendary Air Jordan shoe. However, this was only the tip of the iceberg. While the US is known for innovation and trendsetting, Japan is the real home of addictive consumerism and it was when the sneaker bug hit the East that things really became interesting, as new book Kicks Japan reveals. As in all fields, Japanese sneaker style is obsessive – details are key, with fashion victims analysing every tiny feature, from stitching to lace toggles to trim tones. Producers started to introduce constantly new and updated characteristics, involving everything from design to materials – thus, NTT sneakers represent the ultimate in sneaker technology, actually producing electricity (fans can probably tell you why…). The history of sneakers in Japan is quite different from that of the US. While sneakers were pounding the
ghetto’s of the US, by the time they arrived in Japan they were already a cult status symbol and so entered the market at a high level – money was no object in the pursuit of serious coolness. In fact, exorbitant prices were being charged in the 1990’s for one of the first real must-have sneakers, the Nike Air Max and even today, a vintage sneaker can raise incredible bids. The Japanese sneaker industry mirrored America in that it was also intricately linked with hip-hop culture, but Japan moved away from its usual tendency to copy the US and personalised the whole scene with its own traditions. Today, the world of sneakers remains as intricate and passionate as in the past, although vintage examples are often more in demand and fiercely contended than newer models. Now they even have their own book – the true sign of superstardom.
t r e n d s
Hip-hop goes east. Sneakers are more than just footwear in Japan, they make a style statement.
Not just shoes, more a way of life. Sneaker fans are true aficionados, meticulous followers of sub-fashion.
Over-the-top, innovative, hi-tech. The shops are an integral part of sneaker subculture – true temples to kicks, shrines to the sneaker.
Smoke and
Mirrors
A bob technique in its finest form. A strong fringe punctuates the look with drama. Tones of gold and gold/copper, catapults the design into the realm of avant garde. 32| E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A
V I S I O N
Pretty with an edge. Long hair with spirit. Interesting weight distributions via layering and texturising. Soft,
Trend Collection S/S11 beautiful tones of violet and platinum in a medium blonde base. Transforming classic blonde shades into an on-trend design. Hair: Joico速 International Creative Directors Damien Carney and Sue Pemberton Models: Enel and Saskia
Cosmic
Trip
Style icons infuse their own style uncompromisingly; they do not imitate but are imitated. Restrained extravagance. Soft, flowing shapes communicate with sunny and earthy shades. 34| E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A
V I S I O N
Texture, volume and a lot of movement: long hair as a luxurious means of seduction and as a symbol of rebellious attitude. A modern adaption of the Barbarella style and Bardot glamour looks. Looks with different structures: sleek on the top of the head with curly ponytail, styled
Intercoiffure Mondial
asymmetrically over one shoulder. Revival of waves, curls and hairspray.
Photographer: Rob Peetoom Hair: Intercoiffure Artistic Team Make-up: Hirofumi Kera - Shiseido Styling: Venessa Naudin – L’Officiel Styling: Anum Faryia
V I S I O N
Cosmic trip creations speak of self confidence and coolness de luxe. A fashion statement between tradition and modern – or like a journey between Earth and Moon. E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A | 37
ASIA
FASHION Catwalk Trends Accessories Galore HAIRSTYLES The Latest Coifs for this Season PROFESSIONAL All the Updates of the Industry
w w w . e s t e t i c a m a g a z i n e . c o m /w w w.es tetica-asia .c o m
Turin Milan Amsterdam Athens Barcelona Bucharest Cape Town Dubai Frankfurt Istanbul Jakarta Lisbon London México City Moscow New Delhi New York Paris São Paulo Seoul Shanghai Sofia Sydney
Everywhere in the world It’s always Estetica time!
Warsaw Turin Milan Amsterdam Athens Barcelona Bucharest Cape Town Dubai Frankfurt Istanbul Jakarta Lisbon London México City Moscow New Delhi New York Paris São Paulo Seoul Shanghai Sofia
Sydney Warsaw Turin Milan Amsterdam Athens Barcelona Bucharest Cape Town Dubai Frankfurt Istanbul Jakarta Lisbon London México City Moscow New Delhi New York Paris São Paulo Seoul Shanghai
MODA
INT’L
Autumn hairfashion. In search of the hottest colours and trendiest looks. This edition also features a Spanish Special, with the Club Figaro Award celebrating the best in Iberian creativity. From avant garde to male looks, here is a journey among the most innovative ideas of the season. Hairtrend d’autunno. Alla scoperta delle nuance più voguish e dei total look di tendenza. In questo numero, anche lo Speciale Spagna. Attraverso le collezioni del premio Club Figaro, il meglio della creatività iberica. Dall’avanguardia alle idee al maschile, viaggio tra le idee più innovative di stagione. Die Hairtrends des Herbstes bringen schickste Nuancen und trendige Total Looks. In dieser Ausgabe dabei: ein Spanien-Special. Die Highlights iberischer Kreativität zeigen sich in den Kollektionen des Club Figaro-Preises. Von Avantgarde bis Herren-Looks: die innovativsten Ideen der Saison. Tendances coiffure de l’automne. À la découverte des nuances les plus en vogue et des total looks actuels. Dans ce numéro, aussi un Spécial Espagne. À travers les collections du prix Club Figaro, le meilleur de la créativité ibérique. De l’avant-garde aux idées pour hommes, un voyage parmi les innovations de la saison. Hairtrend de otoño. Para descubrir los matices más en boga y los total look de tendencia. En esta edición, también el especial España. A través de las colecciones del premio Club Figaro, lo mejor de la creatividad ibérica. De la vanguardia a las ideas al masculino, viaje a través de las ideas más innovadoras de la temporada.
Spanish revolution A new vogue in Spanish hairdressing. Hairstylists are establishing a new style code. With the second edition of the Club Figaro Award, the Club selects and rewards today’s top Spanish hairdressers, in five different categories – Hairdresser of the Year, Best Fashion Collection, Best Avant garde Collection, Best Men’s Hairdresser, and New Talent of the Year.
Una nouvelle vague nella coiffure spagnola. Hairstylist che fondano nuovi codici estetici. Il Club Figaro, tramite la seconda edizione del Premio omonimo, seleziona e celebra i più eminenti stilisti nazionali del momento, dedicando loro cinque categorie: acconciatore dell’anno, miglior collezione moda, miglior collezione avant-garde, miglior acconciatura maschile e stilista rivelazione dell’anno. A settembre la Spanish Revolution vede finalmente riconosciuti i suoi protagonisti. Die spanische Coffuire hat ihre Nouvelle Vague. Stylisten, die neue ästhetische Codes festlegen. Der Club Figaro hat bei seiner zweiten Preisverleihung die besten Nachwuchs-Friseure des Landes ausgewählt und in fünf Kategorien prämiert: Friseur des Jahres, beste Mode-Kollektion, beste Avantgarde-Kollektion, beste Herrenfrisur und Newcomer des Jahres. In diesem September erstrahlen die Helden der Spanischen Revolution im verdienten Ruhm.
Une nouvelle vague dans la coiffure espagnole. Des coiffeurs qui créent de nouveaux codes esthétiques. Le Club Figaro, par le biais de la 2ème édition du Prix portant le même nom, sélectionne et célèbre les coiffeurs les plus innovants du moment, en leur dédiant cinq catégories : coiffeur de l’année, meilleure collection mode, meilleure collection d’avant-garde, meilleure coiffure homme et coiffeur révélation de l’année. En septembre, la Spanish Revolution reconnaîtra enfin ses talents.
Un nuevo estilo en la peluquería española. Hairstylist que fundan nuevos códigos estéticos. El Club Figaro, mediante la segunda edición del Premio homónimo, selecciona y celebra a los más eminentes estilistas nacionales del momento, dedicándoles cinco categorías: peluquero del año, mejor colección moda, mejor colección avant-garde, mejor peinado masculino y estilista revelación del año. En septiembre la Spanish Revolution ve por fin reconocidos a sus protagonistas.
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Male collection Best Young collection Hairdresser of the Year Fashion commercial Avantgarde E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A | 41
Dinamico e frizzante. L’uomo spagnolo ama essere attivo in tutto, anche nelle sue scelte coiffure. Ordinato e ben curato, si concede la libertà di giocare con il ciuffo, perché preferisce la nuca rasata. E se invece osa un taglio lungo, libera le ciocche per evitare facili banalità. Styling protagonista. Prickelnd und dynamisch. Der Spanier ist in allem aktiv, auch bei der Wahl seiner Frisur. Ordentlich und gepflegt, erlaubt er sich Spiele mit dem Pony, denn den Nacken mag er rasiert. Bei längeren Schnitten lässt er Strähnen frei, um Banalitäten zu vermeiden. Hauptsache gestylt. Dynamique et électrisant. L’hombre espagnol aime être actif dans tout, même dans le choix de sa coiffure. Ordonné et soigné, il joue avec sa mèche car sa nuque, elle, doit être coupée à ras. Et si, d’audace, ses cheveux sont longs, il libère ses mèches pour fuir la banalité. La coiffure protagoniste. Dinámico y emocionante. Al hombre español le gusta ser activo en todo, incluso en la elección del peinado. Limpio y bien cuidado, se concede la libertad de jugar con el mechón, porque prefiere la nuca afeitada. Y si se atreve con un corte largo, libera los mechones para evitar fáciles banalidades. Estilo protagonista.
MCollection ale Dynamic and sparkling. A Spanish man loves to be active, in every way, even in his hair choices. Neat and looked-after, he lets loose only with his fringe, preferring the neck clean-cut, But if he risks a longer style, he lets his hair flow free, never banal. Styling starTs here.
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Left and Right Hair: Francisco Vegas Lopez @ Centros Vegas Photo: Carles Miro
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Left Hair: Antonio Madrigal Photo: Remedios Malvares Right Hair: Jose Boix @ Toni&Guy Photo: David Arnal
Attention to detail. A hat from the 80s, a military-styled jacket, an unusual fabric for a shirt. The new man goes for understatement or unexpected contrasts to show off his hairstyle.
Attenzione ai dettagli. Un cappello anni Ottanta, una giacca di sapore militare, una camicia dal tessuto inconsueto. Il nuovo uomo sceglie la via dell’understatement o i contrasti inaspettati per esaltare l’hair-look. Ein Auge für die Details. Ein Hut im Stil der 80er, eine Militärjacke, ein Hemd aus unüblichem Material. Der Neue Mann bevorzugt Understatement und überraschende Kontraste, um den Hair-Look in Szene zu setzen.
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Attention aux détails. Une coupe eighties, une veste style militaire, une chemise au tissu inhabituel. L’homme nouveau opte pour une vie discrète ou des contrastes inattendus pour faire ressortir sa coupe de cheveux. Atención a los detalles. Un sombrero años Ochenta, una chaqueta de estilo militar, una camisa del tejido insólito. El nuevo hombre elige el camino de la subestimación o los contrastes inesperados para exaltar el hair-look.
Left and Right Hair: Francisco Vegas Lopez @ Centros Vegas Photo: Carles Miro
Left Hair: Jorge De Sancho @ Desancho Estilistas Photo: David Arnal Right Hair: Jose Boix @ Toni&Guy Photo: David Arnal 48| E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A
L’ultimo dandy preferisce il mistero. Tradotto in lunghi ciuffi che nascondono lo sguardo o in morbide onde perfette per un look casual chic. Per stupire senza eccedere, per raccontare la voglia di moda con originalità. Der letzte Dandy schätzt das Geheimnis. Und übersetzt es in lange Strähnen, die den Blick verbergen, und weiche Wellen für den lässigen Look. So überrascht er ohne Exzesse und zeigt originelles Modebewusstsein.
Le dandy actuel préfère le mystère. Soit les longues mèches qui dissimulent son regard ou de douces ondulations nickel pour un look casual chic. Pour surprendre juste ce qu’il faut, raconter l’envie de mode avec originalité.
The new dandy prefers a mysterious look. Interpreted by long locks that hide his deep gaze or in perfect soft waves for a casual-chic look. To surprise without exaggerating, for a fashion look which desires originality. El último dandy prefiere el misterio. Traducido en largos mechones que esconden la mirada o en suaves ondas perfectas para un look casual chic. Para sorprender sin exceder, para contar las ganas de moda con originalidad.
Left Hair: Jose Boix @ Toni&Guy Photo: David Arnal Centre Hair: Jorge De Sancho @ Desancho Estilistas Photo: David Arnal Right Hair: Antonio Madrigal Photo: Remedios Malvares E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A | 51
I giovani hanno la sensibilità per il nuovo. La Spagna young elige le forme come migliore veicolo di espressione della coiffure emergente. Con una propensione per le geometrie affilate o i volumi decisamente a effetto. L’energia acerba esplode piacevolmente contagiosa. Die Jugend ist offen für Neues. Das junge Spanien wählt die Form als bestes Ausdrucksmittel der neuen Coiffure – und zeigt einen Hang zu scharfer Geometrie und effektvollen Volumen. Eine Explosion herber Energie, die zum Glück ansteckend wirkt.
Les jeunes ont la sensibilité pour le nouveau. Pour l’Espagne « young », les formes sont le meilleur moyen d’expression de la coiffure émergente. Surtout s’il s’agit de géométries effilées ou de volumes de grand effet. L’énergie immature explose et est joliment contagieuse.
BestYoung Los jóvenes tienen la sensibilidad para lo nuevo. La España más joven elige las formas como mejor vehículo de expresión de la peluquería emergente. Con una predilección por las geometrías agudas o por volúmenes de mucho efecto. La nueva energía agradablemente contagiosa.
The young love DESIRES anything new. The younger Spanish generation worship shapes as the best form of expression for new hairdressers, With a special eye towards sharp geometric shapes or big volume. Raw energy explodes in a pleasantly contagious way.
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Left Hair: Rosa Maria Garcia Blanco @ Gemis Estilistas Photo: David Arnal Right Hair: Elena Martinez Santiago @ Arthica Photo: David Arnal E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A | 53
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Left Hair: Josep Navarro @ Toni&Guy Photo: David Arnal Right Hair: Elena Martinez Santiago @ Arthica Photo: David Arnal
Artistic Direction: Laurent Decreton for HCF Hair: HCF Artistic Team Photo: Gyslain Yarhi Make-up: Catherine Dargenton Products: L’Oréal Professionnel Artistic Direction: Laurent Decreton for HCF Hair: HCF Artistic Team Photo: Gyslain Yarhi Make-up: Catherine Dargenton Products: L’Oréal Professionnel 5 6| E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A
Forme piene per volumi attentamente calibrati. Il colore, deciso e senza compromessi, regala tutta la sua personalità a tagli corti dove dominano asimmetrie, colpi di luce e contorni netti. Volle Formen für sorgfältig ausgewogene Volumen. Die Farbe – klar und kompromisslos – unterstreicht mit ihrer Persönlichkeit Kurzhaarschnitte, in denen Asymmetrien, Highlights und klare Konturen dominieren.
Full body for carefully measured volumes. Colour, strong
and decisive, gives it full-blown personality to short hair where asymmetric lines, highlights and clean cuts reign supreme. Des formes pleines pour des volumes bien dosés. La couleur, décidée et sans demi-mesures, fait don de toute sa personnalité aux courts dominés par asymétries, mèches et contours coupés nets. Formas llenas para volúmenes cuidadosamente calibrados. El color, fuerte y sin compromisos, regala toda su personalidad a los cortes cortos donde dominan las asimetrías, golpes de luz y contornos netos.
Left Hair: Reyes Garcia Madrigal @ Antonio Madrigal Photo: Remedios Malvares Right Hair: Emanuel Javier Taboada @ Toni&Guy Photo: David Arnal
Left Hair: Elena Martinez Santiago @ Arthica Photo: David Arnal Right Hair: Rosa Maria Garcia Blanco @ Gemis Estilistas Photo: David Arnal E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A | 59
Volume mon amour. Scultoreo, quasi prepotente, attira l’attenzione su raccolti e acconciature pensate per sorprendere. Abbinato a frisé e colori audaci l’hair-trend diventa fiabesco. Le fate sono tornate.
Volume mon amour. Statuesque, almost domineering, it draws all eyes to updo’s and hairstyles designed to amaze. Matched with frizz and daring colours, hair fashion becomes fairytale-ish. The fairies are back. Volumen mon amour. Mit fast anmaßender Statuenhaftigkeit lenkt es die Aufmerksamkeit auf ÜberraschungsFrisuren. Mit kühnen Farben und Frisé wird es dann märchenhaft. Die Feen sind zurück! Volume, mon amour. Sculptural, presque despote, il attire l’attention sur les cheveux relevés et coiffures pensés pour surprendre. Allié au frisé et couleurs audacieuses, il évoque les contes. Les fées sont de retour. Volume mon amour. Escultórico, casi arrogante, llama la atención en peinados diseñados para sorprender. Frisé y colores vivos combinados crean una tendencia mágica. Las hadas están de vuelta.
Left Hair: Elena Martinez Santiago @ Arthica Photo: David Arnal Right Hair: Josep Navarro @ Toni&Guy Photo: David Arnal E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A | 61
Gli acconciatori del 2011 trovano in forme e texture la loro cifra stilistica. Acconciature sognanti, ispirate a un fantasioso Barocco, si alternano a tagli rigorosi, dove il gusto minimale di matrice orientale si arricchisce di nuance appena accennate. Mentre frisé e onde conservano un fascino evergreen. Die Stylisten 2011 finden ihre Ausdrucksform in Form und Textur. Träumerische, vom Fantasie-Barock inspirierte Frisuren wechseln sich mit strengen Schnitten ab, in denen der Minimal Chic asiatischen Zuschnitts zartfeine Nuancen zeigt. Frisé und Onduliertes dagegen bewahren ihren ewigen Charme.
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Les coiffeurs 2011 puisent toute leur inspiration en matière de style dans les formes et les textures. Les coiffures de rêve, empruntées à un baroque fantaisiste, s’alternent aux coupes rigoureuses où le minimalisme orientalisant s’enrichit de nuances à peine visibles. Tandis que le frisé et l’ondulé séduisent toujours autant. Los peluqueros del 2011 encuentran en formas y texturas su cifra estilística. Peinados de ensueño, inspirados a fantasías Barrocas, se alternan a cortes rigurosos, dónde el gusto minimal de matriz oriental se enriquece con tonalidades apenas acentuadas. Mientras los frisé y las ondas conservan un atractivo sin tiempo.
airdresser
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The 2011 hairdressers are in their element with shape and texture. Dream-like hairstyles, inspired by imaginative Baroque-style, alternate with severe cuts where an Oriental minimalist air is enriched by ever-so-subtle colour hues. WhilE crinkly hair and waves retain their endless charm.
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Left - Hair: Victor Manuel Alonso @ Gemis Estilistas/Photo: David Arnal Above and below - Hair: Xavi Garcia @ Salon 44/Photo: Gorka Postigo Right - Hair: Manuel Enrique Fernandez Mon @ Manuel Mon Estilismo Photo: Pedro Reguera
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Far left Hair: Manuel Enrique Fernandez Mon @ Manuel Mon Estilismo Photo: Pedro Reguera Left Hair: Victor Manuel Alonso @ Gemis Estilista Photo: David Arnal
Above - Hair: David Sanchez Esteban @ Rizos/Photo: David Arnal Below - Hair: Manuel Enrique Fernandez Mon @ Manuel Mon Estilismo/Photo: Pedro Reguera
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Left Hair: Xavi Garcia @ Salon 44 Photo: Gorka Postigo Right Hair: David Sanchez Esteban @ Rizos Photo: David Arnal Far right Hair: Manuel Enrique Fernandez Mon @ Manuel Mon Estilismo Photo: Pedro Reguera
Il piacere della texture. Tutto da assaporare in un liscio nature. Tutto da scoprire in un’acconciatura scultura che mescola echi tricot e gothic. Tutto da ammirare in un raccolto scolpito.
Lovely texture. To be thoroughly enjoyed in natural smoothness. To be discovered in a statuesque hairdo that combines a surprising mix of crochet and gothic. All to be admired in a sculpted up-do. Spaß an der Textur. Wir testen sie am glatten Naturlook, begreifen sie an einer Haar-Skulptur, die Gewirktes mit Gothik vereint, und bewundern sie an einer gemeißelten Hochsteckfrisur. Le plaisir de la texture. À sublimer par un lisse naturel. À découvrir dans une coiffure élaborée qui mêle effet tricoté et gothique. À admirer dans des cheveux relevés façon sculpture. El gusto por las texturas. Todo se saborea en un liso natural. Todo se descubre en un peinado escultura que mezcla ecos tricot y gothic. Todo se admira en una recogido esculpido.
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L’energia della geometria. Angoli acuti, coni, semisfere si intersecano e giocano fra di loro a creare nuovi volumi. Per un look estremamente dinamico che sembra rubare al mondo dei fumetti linee e colori. Nuove eroine dagli occhi di gatto o diafane femme fatale ci osservano dall’alto del loro mondo. Geometrie gleich Energie. Spitze Winkel, Kegel und Halbkreise überschneiden sich und schaffen spielerisch neue Volumen. Ein extrem dynamischer Look, der Linien und Farben aus Comics geborgt zu haben scheint. Für katzenäugige Heldinnen und durchscheinende Femmes Fatales.
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L’énergie de la géométrie. Des angles aigus, cônes et demi-sphères qui s’enchâssent et s’amusent à créer de nouveaux volumes. Pour un look totalement dynamique qui semble voler à la BD ses lignes et couleurs. De nouvelles héroïnes aux yeux de chat ou femmes fatales diaphanes qui nous regardent de haut. La energía de la geometría. Ángulos agudos, conos, semiesferas se cruzan y juegan entre sí para crear nuevos volúmenes. Para un look muy dinámico que parece robe al mundo del cómic líneas y colores. Nuevas heroínas de ojos de gato o diáfanas mujer fatal nos observan desde su mundo.
The vitality of geometry. Acute angles, semi-spheres interlink and play together to create new shapes and sizes. For an ultra-dynamic look that seems to rob lines and colours from comic books. Cat-eyed heroines or pale femme fatales look down from their high-up world.
ommercial
Left Hair: David Sanchez Esteban @ Rizos Photo: David Arnal Right Hair: Mikel Luzea Photo: David Mu単iz
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Left and far right Hair: David Sanchez Esteban @ Rizos Photo: David Arnal Right Hair: Mikel Luzea Photo: David Mu単iz
Sono scelte. Optare per un mood metropolitano, rompendo schemi con tagli che spezzano il ritmo con ciuffi a sorpresa e volumi cotonati. Oppure puntare sul rigore assoluto di un taglio a linea continua. Klare Entscheidungen. Für den MetropolenMood, der mit arhythmischen ÜberraschungsSchnitten und Hochtoupiertem sämtliche Regeln bricht. Oder für die rigorose Linie eines durchgehenden Schnitts. C’est une question de choix. Opter pour un style métropolitain allant contre les idées reçues avec des coupes « cassées » par des mèches surprise et des volumes crêpés. Ou bien miser sur la rigueur absolue d’une coupe à ligne continue.
Choices, choices. Whether to go for the urban mood, breaking all rules
with unconservative cuts that have unexpected locks or teased hair. Or to opt for the absolute severity of an all-round cut. Son elecciones. Optar por un estado de ánimo metropolitano, rompiendo los esquemas con cortes que alteran el ritmo con mechones sorpresa y volúmenes crepados. O centrarse en el rigor absoluto de un corte de línea continua.
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Left Hair: Jorge De Sancho @ Desancho Estilistas Photo: David Arnal Right Hair: Victor Manuel Alonso @ Gemis Estilistas Photo: David Arnal
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Anche il liscio sa essere dinamico. Su tagli corti o medi le punte giocano il ruolo da protagonista. Più sfilate o tutte alla stessa lunghezza, l’importante è muoverle con uno styling fresco e brioso. Auch Glatthaar kann dynamisch sein. Bei kurzem und mittellangem Haar spielen die Spitzen vorne mit. Ob gestuft oder gleich lang: ein frisch-flottes Styling bringt sie in Bewegung.
Even smooth hair can be dynamic. For short or medium-length hair, the ends play a starring role. For more textured or one-length hair, the important thing is to give it movement with youthful, lively styling. Même le lisse sait être dynamique. Sur le court ou moyen, les pointes sont les reines. Plus effilées ou toutes à la même longueur, l’important, c’est qu’un coiffage frais et empreint de brio leur donne du mouvement. Incluso el liso puede ser dinámico. En cortes cortos o medios las puntas desempeñan un papel principal. Más escaladas o todas de la misma longitud, lo importante es moverlas con un estilo fresco y alegre.
Left Hair: David Sanchez Esteban @ Rizos Photo: David Arnal Right Hair: Jose Boix @ Toni&Guy Photo: David Arnal E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A | 75
Left Hair: Victor Manuel Alonso @ Gemis Estilistas Photo: David Arnal Right Hair: Jose Boix @ Toni&Guy Photo: David Arnal
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Sfida alla forza di gravità. Per librarsi con leggerezza e costruire hairlook che hanno il sapore dell’inaspettato. La cotonatura si apre a nuove interpretazioni, immagina raccolti sospesi o crea acconciature leggere come un soffione in primavera. La coiffure d’avanguardia sceglie la poesia. Die Überwindung der Schwerkraft. Frei und leicht werden Hair-Looks konstruiert, die etwas Unerwartetes haben. Durch Toupieren lassen sich ganz neue Ziele erreichen: schwebende Hochbauten oder Frisuren so leicht wie ein Frühlingshauch. Poetische Avantgarde-Coiffure.
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Défier la force de gravité. Pour se libérer avec légèreté et se construire un style qui relève de l’inattendu. Le crêpage se prête à de nouvelles interprétations, imagine des cheveux relevés suspendus ou crée des coiffures légères telles des fleurs de pissenlit. La coiffure d’avant-garde opte pour la poésie.
vantgarde
A gravity-defying challenge. For light-hearted freedom, to create hairstyles with a touch of the unexpected. Backcombing opens up to new ideas, suspended up-do’s or styles as light as a spring breeze. Avant garde hairdressing wants poetry in motion.
Desafío a la fuerza de gravedad. Para flotar con ligereza y construir hairlook que tienen el sabor de lo inesperado. El peinado está abierto a nuevas interpretaciones, imagina recogidos suspendidos o crea peinados ligeros como un diente de león en primavera. La peluquería de vanguardia elige la poesía.
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Left Hair: Jorge De Sancho @ Desancho Estilistas Photo: David Arnal Right Hair: X-Presion Photo: Gustavo Lopez
Left Hair: X-Presion Photo: Gustavo Lopez Right Hair: David Sanchez Esteban @ Rizos Photo: David Arnal
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Left Hair: David Sanchez Esteban @ Rizos Photo: David Arnal Right Hair: Jorge De Sancho @ Desancho Estilistas Photo: David Arnal Far right Hair: Jose Siero Leal @ Sile Peluqueros Photo: Javier Galue 82| E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A
Frisé is evolving. No longer does it search simply for impressive volume
or outsize dimensions. The crinkle look breaks these barriers and becomes textured enfolding, enriching, creating structure. Marie Antoinette-style.
Evoluzioni del frisé. Non solo cerca volumi importanti e dimensioni straordinarie. Il frisé si spinge oltre e diventa texture che avvolge, impreziosisce, struttura. Suggestioni stile Maria Antonietta. Die Evolution der Krause. Große Volumen und außergewöhnliche Dimensionen reichen ihr nicht; sie wird zu alles einhüllender, strukturierender, schmückender Textur. Ganz wie bei Marie Antoinette.
Évolutions du frisé. Non seulement, il recherche des volumes importants et des dimensions extraordinaires. Mais aussi, il va outre et devient une texture qui enveloppe, embellit, structure. Des suggestions style Marie-Antoinette. Evoluciones frisé. No sólo busca impresionantes volúmenes y dimensiones extraordinarias. El frisé va más allá y se convierte en la textura envolvente, embellece, estructura. Sugestiones estilo María Antonieta.
Hair: Kurt Kueffner and Lupe Voss for Aveda Photo: Carl Bengtsson Styling: Michael Cioffoletti
Left Hair: Jorge De Sancho @ Desancho Estilistas Photo: David Arnal Right Hair: X-Presion Photo: Gustavo Lopez
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Left and far right Hair: Gorka Nevado @ W4y Eternian Photo: Josu Izarra Right Hair: Jose Siero Leal @ Sile Peluqueros Photo: Javier Galue
Comune denominatore: sontuosità. Ricchezza di forma, ricercatezza di colore, strutture importanti. Come deve essere un raccolto per le occasioni speciali. Suggerimenti grand soirée.
The common denominator is splendour, richness in shape
and carefully-selected colour, imposing form. Just as an up-do should be for a special occasion. Gala evening look. Die Üppigkeit kennt keine Grenzen. Reiche Formen, ausgesuchte Farben, bedeutende Strukturen. So steckt man für besondere Gelegenheiten hoch. Ideen für die Grande Soirée. Dénominateur commun : somptuosité. Richesse des formes, recherche de la couleur, structures importantes. Ainsi doit être un chignon pour les occasions spéciales. Des idées pour le grand soir. Denominador común: suntuosidad. Riqueza de forma, color escogido, estructuras importantes. Cómo debe ser un recogido para ocasiones especiales. Consejos gran velada.
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tec hni que
davines Flames of colour to light up the face and revive long hair.
S T E P
1- Select horizontal sections and apply small strips of Flamboyage Meche near the ends.
S T E P
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2- Place the long strip of Flamboyage Meche on the outside of the section and lift, creating a hair separation in this section.
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3- Lift the Flamboyage Meche and apply the bleach formula: 40g L’Art Decolor Bleaching Paste + 60g Activation Source 30 vol., merging in the product near the base of the hair.
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4- Cover the newly-coloured section with the non-adhesive part of Flamboyage Meche. 5- Work in horizontal sections and repeat previous procedure.
6- Developing time: from 5 to 20 minutes – look and check hair until level 9 is reached. Remove the Flamboyage Meche strips, rinsing with luke-warm water.
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7- Apply 120g of L’Art Decolor Yellow Toner + 1g L’Art Decolor Red Toner + 30g Fines Pigment Golden (not for regular use). Developing time: 20 minutes. 8- Isolate the fringe section and comb downwards. While colour is developing, lighten the fringe ends to a level 9. Apply 20g L’Art Decolor Bleaching Paste + 30g Activation Source 40 vol., merging with a brush towards the root. Developing time: from 5 to 20 minutes – check regularly.
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Art Director: Angelo Seminara for Davines Colour Specialist: Edoardo Paludo Photo: Andrew O’Toole Make-up: Denise Rabor Styling: Georgie Macintrye Products: Davines E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A | 89
and
Glitz and Glam The Icon and Pure Envy, ‘It’s a Kind of Magic Show’, was a night of inspiring hairstyles, gorgeous couture dresses, sparkling glitter and all things fabulous!
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n the 21 August 2011, The Emperors Palace was a buzz with excitement as hairdressers, media and creatives arrived to attend the Icon and Pure Envy, ‘It’s a Kind of Magic Show’. The evening was held in the Theatre of Marcelles Hall with an amphitheatre feeling where everybody could see the action. From the moment the show started the magic began. Guests were treated to dancers performing to the song ‘It’s a kind of magic’ by Queen, singer Nicholis Louw and a Freddy Mercury impersonator who entertained the crowd with a tribute to Queen. MC’s for the event, Daren Maule and Vlaatjie, welcomed Brett Crawcour, one of South Africa’s up and coming celebrity stylists and ambassador, having attended annual international seminars all over the world, onto stage. Brett demonstrated his technical abilities while performing the highly acclaimed balloon cut; the hair was suspended with balloons and cut into a perfect layered style. Once the applause had died down, owner and principal of La Louve Private Hair Academy in Montana Park, Pretoria, took to the stage. Denise contributes towards growth within the hairdressing industry with quality training and demonstrated how to effectively use the Lisap Man colour range, focusing on
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current male trends and how to create the desired look using the Lisap’s Matt styling products. Icon’s sister company, Pure Envy Hair Cosmetics, introduced their international partner Artistique, a dynamic company founded in Deventer in the Netherlands and presently one of the fastest growing hair cosmetics company in the Netherlands. Head Technician and salon owner for Artistique Netherlands, Miranda de Plate, wowed the audience with a show of Avant-garde hairstyles performed to her national anthem. After performances from Fusion Living salon owners Chantell van Wyk and Heidi van der Berg, hairstylist Clinton van Rooyen, and award winning hairstylist, Jaco van Rensberg, the hosts of the evening had one last surprise for the audience. A magician distracted the guests with magic tricks and fireworks, until the big reveal. Icon and Pure Envy introduced their new vibey purple and rubine red packaging. Clinton van Rooyen ended the show perfectly; creating a detailed Avant garde head piece using colours to match the products new look. Thank you to Icon and Pure Envy for a truly inspiring and educational show and we look forward to receiving the new packaging.
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Technician and salon owner for Artistique Netherlands, Miranda de Plate, wowed the audience with a show of Avant garde hairstyles performed to her national anthem.
Pure celebration Hair Brasil 2011 celebrates its tenth birthday in grand style. Rush takes home the AIPP Grand Trophy. by Sergi Bancells
Watch the video on your mobile With the QR code you can see AIPP Grand Trophy Ceremony
ESTETICABRASIL! www.facebook.com/ estetica.it www.youtube.com/ esteticatv
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spectacular event for Hair Brazil’s tenth anniversary. More than one hundred shows and a huge Association Internationale Presse Professionelle (AIPP) party, with British team Rush winning the 2011 Grand Trophy. Over 80,000 visitors celebrated Hair Brasil’s tenth anniversary. This huge party for the hairdressing and beauty world was held in one of the most important and bustling South American cities, Sao Paolo. The event on 2-5 April took place in the splendid Expo Center Norte and broke all previous records, with 11% more visitors than 2010. This special Hair Brasil occasion, the biggest appointment in the southern hemisphere, witnessed more than one hundred events of national and international hairfashion, seminars and workshops… These included the incredible shows presented by the Global President of Intercoiffure, Klaus Peter Ochs, as well as the partner delegations from countries such as Italy, Peru, Argentina and, of course, Brazil itself. The fantastic programme rounded off with ‘Celebration’ and ten fabulous stylists – led by Klaus Peter Ochs, the line-up included Alberto Carlo Rossi (president of Intercoiffure Italy) and Mauricio Pina, Manno Escobar, César Augusto, Hugo Moser, Viktor I, Ivaldo Lima, Léia Avila and Charles Veiga. Hair Brasil 2012 is
scheduled for 24-27 March 2012, again in Sao Paolo.
AIPP Grand Trophy A party within a party. For the first time, the award ceremony of AIPP Grand Trophy 2010-2011 left European shores to move to Sao Paolo and the Hair Brasil stage for the finals. The winner? English team Rush defeated Spanish (Felicitas and Gemis), French (Carita) and Australian (Salon) rivals in the contest. The award ceremony was presented by Roberto Pissimiglia (AIPP President) and Andrea Mascarenhas (vicePresident of the association) together with fair organisers Waleska and Francisco Santos. The award was received by Tina Farey and Paola Fattorusso, members of creative team Rush, who said: “Receiving global recognition like this in such a great place as Brazil was a fantastic experience for our company”.
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Some of the most important moments in Hair Brasil 2011. Above, Roberto Pissimiglia and staff of Estetica Network at the fair. Left, the AIPP Grand Trophy, presented to Tina Farey and Paola Fattorusso. Right, the great Klaus Peter Ochs in action during the main show in Brazil. Below, Ochs and Pissimiglia with Francisco and Waleska Santos, chief organisers at Hair Brasil.
Colour Trophy 2011 The L’Oréal Colour Trophy 2011 was an evening not to be missed. Cindy Horton gives us the inside scoop on the colour trends seen on stage and the winners of the night.
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airdressers from all corners of South Africa fought the cold winter weather to attend one of the biggest hair shows of 2011. On 28 June 2011, the gorgeously decorated banquet hall at the Sandton Convention Centre played host to the L’Oréal Colour Trophy finals. The white theme, stunning mirror and floral table arrangements and electric lighting created a visual feast. This year’s competition featured three awards: The 2011 Colour Trophy award – an overall look featuring skillfully executed colour complemented by a forwardthinking haircut; Next Generation Award – stylists (apprentice or studying) had to create a wearable, commercial colour and finish; and Afro Catwalk Look Award – a new ethnic category, apprentices had to create a commercial high street colour and finish. The first round of judging was done using photographs from 300 initial entries and the final 27 finalists were chosen at the L’Oréal headquarters in Sandton, two days before the event. The evening was opened with a show from Terence of Terenzo which featured trapeze artists gliding through the air, ballerinas and beautiful white couture dresses. Terence, a previous Colour Trophy winner, expressed his cutting abilities on elegant ballerinas in motion.
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Guests were treated to Top Billing presenter, Janez Vermeiren, as MC for the evening, who welcomed Jane Maclaren-Taylor, L’Oréal Professionnel’s General Manager, onto stage. Jane expressed how proud she is to represent this industry and acknowledged the dedication and passion of the L’Oréal Professionnel team, with special thanks to Talya Cohen, Project Manager for the event. The Auditor of KPMG took to the stage followed by a number of hairdressing and fashion icons on the judging panel. The panel included: UK’s Jason and India Miller of Charlie Miller Art Team fame, Hair Colour Specialist, Jo Hansford; Michel Claire, Director of International Professional Development; SA fashion designers Malcolm Klûk and Christiaan Gabriel du Toit; Hairdressing Trade Publisher, Carol Ann Jamison; and Lancôme National Make-Up Artist, Andrew James. The stage was transformed as the finalists showcased their designs. First up were the models for the Mizani Afro Catwalk, then the Next Generation, and finally the Colour Trophy. Models strutted down the catwalk showing off the various hairstyles that were created by anxious stylists waiting backstage. The superb wearable and commercial colour on display, copper and red tones setting the trend were appreciated by everyone.
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After dinner, the audience was transported into a fairytale land where anything was possible. Jason and India Miller treated guests to a show called ‘1001 Nights of the Future’ inspired by INOA. This magical show portrayed models in avant-garde hairstyles in soft pastel shades, wearing beautiful mythical creations. Finally, the moment everyone had been waiting for; the announcement of the winners. The anticipation was electric and nerves were running high. The Mizani Afro Catwalk award was won by Jerome Sauls from Terenzo Cape Town. The Next Generation award was won by Nadia Pretorious from Modern Wave, Amanzimtoti. The second runner-up for the Colour Trophy Award was Michelle Reinders from In the Mood, Bloemfontein; runner-up, Chantelle van Wyk from Fusion Living, Pretoria; and the winner, from the same salon, Heidi van der Berg. As always, besides the amazing exposure, the L’Oréal Professionnel Colour Trophy prizes were phenomenal. Heidi walked away with, among others, R40 000 in cash from L’Oréal Professionnel; Nadia with R15 000 cash from L’Oréal Professionnel and an invitation to become a L’Oréal Professionnel Colour Specialist. Jerome left with R20 000 cash from Mizani and a Mizani ID artist title. ESTETICA would like to congratulate all the participants and winners for their outstanding work and effort. A special thanks to L’Oréal Professionnel, for once again, hosting an inspirational evening. We look forward to next year!
Finalists and performing stylists produced eye catching and trend setting work. Terence of Terenzo demonstrated his cutting abilities on models in motion. UK duo, Jason and India Miller, performed a magical show with fairytale avant garde hairstyles.
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eidi van der Berg, co-owner of Fusion Living hair and beauty salon, in Faerie Glen Pretoria, landed in the hairdressing industry by chance. Qualifying as a hairdresser in 1994, Heidi went on to try other avenues and left hairdressing for good to study marketing management and fine art, however her love for hairdressing continued. Heidi’s adventurous attitude and love of challenges, especially the seemingly impossible ones, have allowed her to perfect her talent. This was evident when she won this year’s L’Oréal Professionnel Colour Trophy 2011 awards at the Sandton Convention Centre on the 28th June. Cindy Horton chats to Heidi about how she created her winning colour and the inspiration behind her look.
Fusion ESTETICA meets Heidi van der Berg from Fusion Living, winner of the L’Oréal Professionnel Colour Trophy 2011 awards.
When was Fusion Living born?
Fusion living was born in 2002 as a tiny studio that I fashioned for myself. We bought the house so I could start working from home, but as the family expanded, so did Fusion Living. Today, we have 13 staff members and the house is used only as a business premises – my former studio now houses the backwash area. How do you keep your staff motivated and inspired to continually strive to better their abilities?
Every Thursday from 8 to 11am we have designated training time. I try to train everyone at their level and keep the training interesting, diverse and sometimes competitive. Sometimes we have in-salon training and on occasion we take them to training sessions at the major brands training centers. I try to encourage them to challenge themselves to grow and to enjoy learning new things. It was also a great motivator to have some of them on our colour trophy teams. What was the inspiration behind your amazing colour?
My muse for this project was Lily Cole. I loved the versatility of her look and that it could transcend different genres. I wanted to create exactly that, a look that did not have to be labeled, but could be serious and fun, classic or edgy. I wanted to see if I could 96| E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A
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Heidi’s adventurous attitude and love of challenges, especially the seemingly impossible ones, have allowed her to perfect her talent.
create a natural looking red head and thought Inoa would be the perfect tool, so I set out looking for a model with hair texture similar to natural red heads, to get a true colour and keep the integrity of the hair. How did you create such a great mix of colours and what products did you use?
I used Inoa with 20 vol., copper golds and copper reds on a 6 and 7 level with some copper gold accents in 8. Inoa has vibrant shades but looks natural because it covers differently to regular tint and the oil delivery system tamed the texture. I used shades that are similar in tone but by placing them in a certain way it made them pop and gives the colour texture and contrast. What was your models original hair colour?
My models natural colour was between a 6 and 7. Did it make it easier to work on a light canvas?
I always try not to deviate too far from the models natural base. Staying close to the base means that the colour will suit her better and also be more maintainable. What advice would you give stylists who would like to participate next year?
Do a look that works with your model, for example, consider her natural base and texture and get your concept together before you start. Heidi van der Berg is a true visionary, with a passion for creating vibrant and technically correct colour.
Technological
Assistance Terry Miles offers us advice on how we can use technology to our advantage.
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ost computer software programs for the beauty and hair industry have a similar approach to the various functions available to the user. The concept of ‘user friendly’ not only applies to the mechanical navigation between the various functions and the ease with which one can enter data, it also refers to the quality of the reports available and the ease with which the user can edit the report criteria to get a better overview of the business. Terry Miles, Managing Director of My Salon Software, shares his thoughts on why it is important to have access to this kind of information.
Functionality
A good computer system should be easy to learn, be quick to navigate through the various functions and be able to be customised to your individual requirements because of the amount of information that will eventually build up on your system; it is useful to be able to filter data based on parameters you tell the system to use. For example, if you want to view a list of clients who have not returned to the salon, you should be able to specify within the last three months, six months, etc. Another example, if you would like to view stock items that have reached their re-order levels, you should be able to view this by product supplier.
Client information
Client Relationship Management (CRM) software programs are all about the client. Over and above basic information such as first name, last name, cell number, landline number and email address, your system should be able tell you where your clients come from – both geographically as well as by source, .e.g. a regular repeat client, referral, walk-in’s, etc. The client database should also allow you to sort your clients by service types. These might be slimming clients, facial clients, body treatment clients and manicures and pedicures, etc. By associating clients to demographic groups, you will be able to see
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A good computer system should be easy to learn, be quick to navigate through the various functions.... whether you are growing your business internally, i.e. existing clients buying more of your services and products. Birthdays and loyalty anniversaries are also a must. Clients don’t care how much you know until they know how much you care; and recognising clients’ birthdays and long service to the salon is a clear way of letting them know you do care.
Automation
Automation is probably the main reason for computerising in the first place. A good system should allow you to see and schedule a birthday greeting to clients on a day-by-day basis. Confirmation of appointments should also be an automated function sending a courtesy SMS reminder 24 hours beforehand. You should have the ability to change the timing of these reminders, e.g. 6 hours, 12 hours, 24 hours, etc. An automated task manager or dashboard, that appears every time you open the programme, will allow you to stay on top of all the things you need to do on a day-by-day basis. An automated back-up prompt will prevent you from placing your data at risk by not backing up on a regular basis.
Joico
Reporting
Cristina Quickler/AFP/Getty Images
Natural ingredients and sustainability policies are now necessary and profitable.
Reporting is probably the most essential function of any computer programme. Reports should give you quality information about turnover achievement, staff performance, client retention, stock movement, client loyalty as well as showing you which of your products and services make you the most money. On a daily basis you need a daily cashing up procedure, expense reports and as well as reports that tell you your current turnover projection for the month. The basis of achieving targets is to have daily progress reports and adapt your business strategy accordingly. A good system will update your income statement (profit and loss report) daily. In this way, you will be able to put a break on spending if you see that turnover is down.
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Stock control
The two worst stock scenarios are running out of popular products thus disappointing therapists and clients and, over-buying which ties up precious cash flow preventing you from ordering stock as and when you need it. A good stock control system will tell you which items have reached their re-order level. These re-order levels must be set by you but the system should regularly show you which you need to re-order. The system should be able to monitor the stock used in the rooms as well as retail purchases to ensure they are in line with turnover. Other useful functions of stock control are to value current stock on hand and to reflect that as a percentage of turnover, in order to gauge stock turn and to work out forward cover for each product based on current stock usage versus stock on hand. Both these functions identify the problem of over-stocking.
provider should update the user guide as upgrades are introduced. By taking the above into consideration and being able to access this sort of information on a regular basis, it will assist you with the smooth daily and future running of your salon and help prevent any unnecessary spending.
Marketing
Marketing is all about staying in touch with your clients and finding ways to bring new ones into your salon. SMS marketing has become the standard today. Clients are not put out by periodic SMS’s advising them of events and activities in the salon, and what nicer way is there to avoid no-shows by scheduling an SMS to courteously remind them of their appointment. The computer programme should allow you to send mass mail SMS’s as well as targeting segments of your client database. A good system will also allow you to email salon events and promotions, also in a mass mail format or by selected client groups. An effective loyalty program will assist in getting your name out there as clients love to tell each other when they earn something just for being loyal to a business. Loyalty programmes should not be confused with discount promotions but should be well thought out in terms of their perceived value to the client.
User guide
Most providers of software programmes supply a limited amount of training, therefore if there is a comprehensive user guide that comes with or is built-in to the system, the better. This will allow you to study the system at your own time and to look up function use as and when you become stuck. Your system
Marketing is all about staying in touch with your clients and finding ways to bring new ones into your salon.
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Smoothing
products O
After the bad rap that smoothing products got a while ago with the formaldehyde controversy, it’s time to take another look at options that work safely and effectively. Here’s a quick round-up.
f course your clients want silky, shiny glamouros hair. It’s always up to the pro’s to illustrate the options and make sure they understand the possibilities, from permanent, to semi-permanent, and even simple styling products that can give the effect they want at the price they want to spend (also in terms of time and safety). Biolage smooththerapie contains Camellia Serum Flower seed oil to control frizz during heat and humidity and replenish moisture during dry, cold seasons. Camellia Serum contains antioxidants and Vitamin E to help it penetrate deep into hair. These five products are paraben, phthalate, and synthetic dye-free and come in eco-conscious packaging. CHI Enviro American Smoothing Treatment is 100% formaldehyde free, natural, and safe, leaving hair healthier and stronger, while adding super shine and making even at-home styling and maintenance easier. Cysteine in the formula rearranges the protein bonds rather than breaking them, an effect that can last up to four months when the CHI Hairstyling Iron is used at 410° to seal the cuticle.
by Marie Scarano
eliminates up to 95 percent of frizz and curl while adding shine and body for up to three months. The treatment is odour free and can be used on colourtreated hair with optimal results. There is also a complete range of follow-up styling products, like Flex Flow Finishing Hairspray, Vita Volume Boosting Foam, and Lift Off Root Amplifying Styling Gel. Moroccanoil is the luxury brand that is all about hair with a polished frizz-free and static-free finish, as demonstrated by its cult following among leading runway and celebrity stylists The Moroccanoil® Treatment was developed to soften thick unmanageable hair, restore shine and make brittle hair more supple. Moroccanoil® Hydrating Styling Cream is a leave-in conditioner that eliminates frizz and hydrates while adding extra hold, but check out the entire line of products to find just what you need.
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Keratin Complex Smoothing Treatment by Coppola
Hair can be straight, wavy, or even curly, but frizz is definitely not wanted. Healthy hair should be smooth and silky, adding texture if desired.
Pravana
Keratin Complex by Coppola
Matrix
Paul Mitchell
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Today it is easy to find a wide selection of safe smoothing products. Selecting the right one for the client in your chair may be more of a challenge.
Treatments
Moroccanoil Sebastian Professional
TIGI
Many styling products can give the results you want temporarily, from finishing smooth to blow-out straightening for a special occasion.
Styling
Although long lengths effectively illustrate product results, short and medium lengths can also benefit from smoothing products for the best finish. Always consult with your client as to how much time and money she is willing to spend, and how long she wants the results to last.
Paul Mitchell Awapuhi Wild Ginger TM Collection
is the Rolls Royce of Keratin-based treatments. The exclusive KeraTriplex blend is derived from New Zealand sheep’s wool, as it is remarkably similar to human hair. The Awapuhi system is formulated to repair damage resulting from heat styling, chemical processing and ageing. There are eight products, including a KeraTriplex Treatment and Keratin Intensive Treatment to replenish every strand with protein and moisture. Pravana Perfection SmoothOut contains a NanoAmino Complex TM, which suspends the textural memory of hair, making it soft and touchable. The Perfection SmoothOut system is perfectly safe, has a low pH, and contains no harsh chemicals, making it suitable for all clients. Flat ironing can be done at just 360° and cleansing and colour services can be performed immediately. Results will last for 8-10 weeks, especially if clients follow through at home with Pravana’s Perfection Smoothing Shampoo and Conditioner! Pureology SuperSmooth was created to smooth and replenish unmanageable hair previously subjected to chemical services like colouring or straightening. With ingredients like camellia and sesame oil, organic shea butter, and organic geranium, these six products shampoo, condition, nourish and fortify hair, making it softer and taming the cuticle for lasting smoothness. American Culture Simply Smooth consists of Simply Smooth Designer Line Smooth and Straight, a two part system that uses traditional straightening techniques during phase one, followed by a keratin finish in phase two. The Cure Tools properly infuse keratin treatments and the Simply Smooth Xtend Touch of Keratin provides quick in-salon treatment or easy at-home use. Redken Smooth Down revitalises coarse, dry hair as it is formulated to replenish natural oils along the hair shaft to make hair more manageable and fight frizz. The line consists of Anti-Frizz Shampoo, Anti-Frizz Conditioner, Heat Glide Leave-In Treatment, and Butter Treat (rinse-out or leave-in) for both in-salon and home use at affordable retail prices. RUSK Anticurl and Kerashine Conditioning is billed as a demi-permanent ‘curl adjustment’ service but also allows clients to have straight hair one day and still work with natural curl the next. Also great for men looking for
Moroccanoil
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greater control over their current style. Application varies according to hair type, usually taking from 1-3 hours, but lasts 12-16 weeks. Sebastian Potion 9 and Liquid Gloss were created to be especially kind to hair with plant oils, botanical extracts and polymers to tame, hold, and protect hair from heat and UV exposure. Liquid Gloss features a unique silicone blend to smooth hair, creating a humidityresistant shield. Sexy Hair Reinvent Colour Care Keratin Hair Filler is a new in-salon treatment that fills follicles with keratin to make hair luxuriously smooth and super shiny. The three-step process Reinvent Shampoo, the Hair Filler, and finally the Reinvent Colour Care Treatment. Then rinse, style, and go. Hair is protected by a layer of keratin that also helps extend colour by a shielding it from UV rays. TIGI Sleek Mystique, the latest addition to the Catwalk range, banishes frizz with these sulphate-free products containing a cocktail of exotic extracts of lychee, Japanese honeysuckle, and rice bran oil. There is a specific product for the look your client wants, along with fragrances that will entice them to take home their favourite product, thereby boosting your retail sales as well. E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A | 105
Mandela and Anver Dangor have two things Head Quarters - Nelson in common – they are both Black South Africans leaders in their respective fields. A cut above and Anver Dangor is the Founder and Managing Director of one of the most respected hair salon equipment supply the rest company’s in South Africa. While most South Africans were excited, anticipating the release of Nelson Mandela in 1991, like a true entrepreneur he was working on launching an innovative business venture to change the face of many salons in South Africa. “As a newcomer to the industry, I was competing against two well-established companies that had been around for 55 and 75 years, respectively. Breaking into the market under those circumstances was no easy feat. It took a long time to build up a customer base, due to the fact that salons were buying through catalogues and not visiting suppliers,” says Dangor Head Quarters is the first black empowered business in the specialist hair styling equipment supply industry. Twenty years later, it is one of the industry’s leading company’s having set up approximately over 5 000 salons, through mostly word of mouth referrals. Dangor says that passion and innovation have been fundamental to the success of Head Quarters. “I am where I am today, firstly due to God, then passion and determination. It took a lot of hard work and commitment to build the company into an industry leader.” Innovation is also an important aspect to Head Quarters’ success – the company being the first to introduce a showroom concept – revolutionising the way salons do business. In the past, salons used to rely on sales representatives who presented their new equipment on catalogues. Even individuals who wanted to open their own salons could only choose equipment from catalogues. This was a major setback as it was difficult to really grasp the full beauty of the salon equipment and accessories from a catalogue. “Setting up a salon is like furnishing your home.
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Pictures are great, but what you really need is to see and touch the furniture and get a feel for how it will look in your house. Our showroom forced this concept into the hairstyling industry, and while there was some negativity in the beginning, most people are happy to visit the showroom and view the products for themselves.” The Head Quarters showroom displays all equipment necessary to set up a salon, from hair rollers and combs to stylish basins and chairs. Head Quarters uses the experience in the market to aid prospective salon owners in understanding their reasons for entering the market and the best manner in which to do so. The company also advices and assists prospective salon owners to do feasibility studies before opening up a salon. “There is a bright future and huge opportunities in the wellness and personal beauty industries.” He adds, “People are starting to take better care of themselves because they want to feel and look good. Even men are no longer excluded from this industry. I believe that the future will see more hair salons combining with day spas to offer clients a full range of beauty services. These are the kinds of insights that we offer our customers.” It is this kind of value added service that has won Head Quarters contracts from Mauritius to Malawi and allowed the company to open a second branch in Durban. “This is a very exciting industry to be in at the moment. Our strength is that we are continually looking for new innovations and methods to give our customers the competitive edge. The fact that others follow us is in itself proof of our level of service and excellence.” What do you think are the ingredients to your success? It is only with God’s grace that anyone can assume success. Integrity, hard work and passion to satisfy your clients’ needs are the basics required.
Q U A R t e r s
There is a bright future and huge opportunities in the wellness and personal beauty industry...
What draws Head Quarters apart from the rest? It would be our hands on approach and taking responsibility for any discrepancies that may arise. We also don’t employ sales representatives in an industry that insists on it. This has been our policy from the beginning. This was to insure that what I expected from my company would be exactly what I delivered to my clients. We didn’t want to have to deal with clients who have been over sold on and then couldn’t meet their requirements. We like the human factor – dealing with our clients directly, with no frills and fuss. With the no-sales-rep approach and our showroom, we provide what many people require – convenience and transparency.
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professional opportunities Techno The buzz is about how to engage ‘The Beauty Generation’, a wired, aesthetically sophisticated, eco-conscious tribe of consumers. by Kendall Farr
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phobia Digital Digs
At Cosmoprof North America in Las Vegas last July, seminars like ‘fueling your brand story’ and ‘social networking and mobile-sharing for marketing and promotion’ were attended and then tweeted about by roving ‘trendscouts’, who provided real-time information to beauty pros reading the information from around the world. The message was clear. It now takes more than promoting hero products and breakthrough formulations to engage your customer. It also takes creating the largest digital presence your business can manage, and then telling them the story behind your business and products. Chalk it up to a post-bling economy, but customers want to be connected to businesses they perceive are authentic, learning all they can about your brand, and sharing what they
know with the world at large via the self-promotion troika of Facebook, Twitter, and Tumblr.
The First Step
Few businesses are without a website, yet some are reluctant to plunge into the next phase of connection. With 500 million active users on Facebook spending over 700 billion minutes per month on the site, not having a Facebook page is almost like not having electricity. In the wired age, the challenge facing salons and spas is how to directly engage with a population of discerning shoppers who research products and services on-line before they buy anything. To that end, L’Oréal Professionnel Products in partnership with Buddy Media, the global Facebook management system, recently launched The Salon Facebook Program to expose their salon partners to the business and community building possibilities on the social network.
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Salons in the network use this tool to easily manage their Facebook pages and access real-time analytics to keep track of how many viewers they have, how people like the information, and more. Redken’s Facebook Toolkit introduces salons to the program and includes components like a $25 advertising credit to promote their page to clients. Redken.com’s My Business Toolbox is designed for salons to create customised print materials and advertising to promote their products and services. Matrix’s Send a Referral Kit contains a program to help salons attract new clients and build their bottom line.
There’s an App for that!
As more people come to rely on smartphones and tablets, salons are expanding the reach of their customer service with systems like L’Oréal Professionnel's Schedulicity, an online booking application available to partners to allow clients to book their appointments from a mobile device. Top beauty companies have developed mobile apps for professional use, providing cutters and colorists with tips and formulas they can access anywhere. Paul Mitchell Pro Mobile offers colour formulas, a style inspiration gallery, product spotlights, and business building tips. Redken has taken it in a different direction with their Style Station App offering professional colourists mobile access to the newest colour formulations in their respective levels with formulas that tie into a larger education program
on their website. Aveda’s mobile app enables their clients to shop for their products with free shipping. TIGI has launched its new CATWALK iPad App, offering instant backstage access to the TIGI Creative Team as they create the latest looks using CATWALK by TIGI products, including how-tos for inspirational staff education. If clients just can’t wait to get that hot new look, all they have to do is enable the TIGI finder to locate the nearest salon.
Educating your clients
For a DIY, makeover-obsessed society, digital technology has taken client education to new levels. Aveda recently launched their first live stream video how - to from their
Today’s smartphones and tablets make it possible to consult with hair care experts or educate clients no matter where you or they are.
software - app affiliate Van Michael in Atlanta. In a kind of meta-makeover event, the salon’s creative director demonstrated the perfect blowout on a client. As he explained the necessary steps, he was creating his own video of the blowout on his iPad. The video was sent to his client after the session so that she could recreate the tutorial at home. Meanwhile, on the sidelines, Aveda’s Digital Social Media Manager Annalise Kaylor fielded real-time questions from Facebook fans watching live. “It’s not about money, it’s about relationships,” says Kaylor. “Our Facebook fans feel invested in the Aveda brand because we have a dialogue with them. We get real-time feedback on what they like, and what they want,
and I answer their questions,” she adds. Paul Mitchell’s Mitch site even beckons to the male of the species, promoting products for men with short, style driven video clips that provide men with tips on how to use products and styling ideas.
networking Social networking is here to stay: “It’s not about money, it’s about relationships.” (Annalise Kaylor for Aveda)
New Rules of Engagement
Content that lets customers interact with a brand has become a vital marketing tool for companies of all sizes. Another twist: contests. Big or small, whether it’s a chance for a client to win a product or a makeover at their local salon or for a salon pro to compete in a hair show on an international stage, contests can offer clients and followers a backstage pass to the glamour of the beauty industry. Paul Mitchell’s recent contest in support of Awapuhi Wild Ginger Cream Whip asked their visitors to share their ‘hair stories’ for a chance to win the product. Wella Professionals created the Trend Vision Award, giving professional stylists a chance to compete live in the North American and International Trend Vision Competitions. To win, stylists must interpret one of four trends created by Wella Professional’s Global Creative Directors: Eugene Souleiman, and Josh Wood, then submit a model picture of their interpretation online. Win or lose, the cache for a stylist to have their work posted on Wella’s site and to be seen by editorial and runway stars like Souleiman and Wood drives both buzz and content.
Jump in, but be prepared
Dedicated emails and mailers remain solid tools for promotion but expanding your marketing reach via social media means determining whether your business can handle
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group promotions without overwhelming your front desk or disrupting your service wheel. Shortcuts – a company that developed touch screen software for salons and spas over 15 years ago has recently released Shortcuts Black which helps salons implement large scale promotions that ‘bundle’ services catering to the ‘Groupon Generation’ of customers without stressing the staff. The software helps reduce mistakes and assure a smooth check-out. “It helps owners get creative about boosting their sales without cutting into their bottom line,” explains Paul Tate CEO North America for Shortcuts Software. And if you are wondering how your sales numbers compare to the competition in your area, Shortcuts has created a program called Scorecard that lets salons compare their performance against real-time indicators from other salons and spas. Businesses can anonymously view sales, statistics and retail numbers to see how they compare to the competition and determine where they should improve.
“Don’t be reactive, be proactive when it comes to taking on digital media for your business.” Valorie Reavis for Linkup Marketing
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Sustainable appeal
The flip side of having a large digital presence is leaving the smallest carbon footprint possible. Suddenly, the opposite extreme, ecology and sustainability are sexy. The message that you can create effective beauty and hair care products without destroying the environment resonates with The Beauty Generation who wants to know that your values match theirs. To reduce their production-related greenhouse gas emissions Joico has produced new packaging created from PCR (post-consumer recycled) polyethyline combined with a plant-derived, biodegradable starch. Wind-turbines now provide more than 60 percent of Zotos’ energy requirements at their Geneva NY plant. Up to 50 percent of Pureology’s all-vegan formulations are now packaged in PCR materials collected from commercial and residential sources. The Aveda Package Take Back Program is this brand’s newest recycling initiative. Known as a ‘closed loop system’, Aveda packaging can be returned back to Aveda to be recycled into new Aveda packaging or other reusable materials assuring that none of their packaging goes to landfills. To reduce noise pollution on the salon floor, Parlux has developed the Melody Silencer, a dryer attachment that reduces sound waves with a sound-proof rubber seal around the hairdryer body.
Who’s afraid?
engagement
Today, thanks to technology and social media, companies can promote the good that they do with messages that have a viral – media resonance that can reach millions, making it easier and essential for companies to sell themselves and their products on a global stage. “Don’t be reactive, be proactive when it comes to taking on digital media for your business," says Valorie Reavis the Founder of Linkup Marketing. “Start at a level that is comfortable for you and your staff and build your outreach. For any salon or spa business, your marketing plan should build-in the costs of implementing and managing digital media,” she adds.
Paul Mitchell’s Awapuhi Wild Ginger contest and Wella Professionals’ Trend Vision Award involve hairdressers directly and offers added value.
Sustainability
business media coverageinternet innovation professional opportunities Eco-savvy consumers are demanding that companies implement stringent sustainability policies. The customer is always right!
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ESTETICA chatted to two influential local hairstylists on the benefits of social media in the work place.
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ocial media has become a preferred form of communication and marketing. Local salon owners, Shawn Nicholas and Reto Camichel, have caught onto this techno craze. Cindy Horton chats to them on how they are using social media as a business tool in their salons.
times. Social media has become a part of our lives, and one of the
Do you use social media as a business tool, and if so which ones?
ways in which we communicate with each other. Reto Camichel, Owner, Reto Style Lounge
It is a fabulous platform to expose your business to a huge mass of individuals. Shawn Nicholas, Co-owner, Synergy Hair Intercoiffure
Yes, we do. We have a Facebook page. Reto Camichel, Owner, Reto Style Lounge
Yes, we do. Facebook and Youtube are our favourite social tools so far. How has this influenced your business? Shawn Nicholas, Co-owner, Synergy Hair Intercoiffure
Positively. Clients like to visit a salon that is keeping up with the
How do you choose the content that you post or chat about? Shawn Nicholas, Co-owner, Synergy Hair Intercoiffure
It must be informative, positive, encouraging and interesting. It should keep clients up-to-date with the latest developments in the salon. For example, staff holidays, price increases, new products and techniques, seminars, workshops and achievements like competition results and publication of your latest photoshoots.
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We try to update our page with current events in and out of the salon. How do you draw people to your facebook page or twitter account? Shawn Nicholas, Co-owner, Synergy Hair Intercoiffure
Our correspondence has a link attached to it as well as all our printed material like pricelists. Reto Camichel, Owner, Reto Style Lounge
Clients generally add themselves, and we encourage their friends to do the same. What benefit do you think the consumer has by communicating in this way? Shawn Nicholas, Co-owner, Synergy Hair Intercoiffure
Emails and SMSes ’ can be very intrusive, while facebook posts are becoming more exceptable. It also gives people the choice to just read the post or to go further and browse your page. Clients also feel part of your success, when they can post positive feedback on your wall. Reto Camichel, Owner, Reto Style Lounge
The consumer has the choice to check up on us whenever they
desire to do so. It is a fast and convenient way of communication. Most people have joined the Facebook trend, so why not use it to its full potential. What positive responses have you had as a result of social media? Shawn Nicholas, Co-owner, Synergy Hair Intercoiffure
Social media is free advertising, and the hairdressing industry thrives on ‘word of mouth’ marketing. It has cut down on advertising costs. Friends of clients are exposed to their wall posts and therefore you are exposed to people other than your clients.
delt with immediately. We must never forget that our primary job in the salon is to be a hairstylist.
Reto Camichel, Owner, Reto Style Lounge
By using social media, we put ourselves and our business out there to be publicly praised as well as criticised. Negative opinions and comments spread faster than wild fire on the Internet.
Reto Camichel, Owner, Reto Style Lounge
We posted a promo DVD about my workshop “sentimaint” on Youtube, which resulted in me being asked to do workshops in L.A and New York. A dream come true! What are the downfalls of social media in your business? Shawn Nicholas, Co-owner, Synergy Hair Intercoiffure
Caution should be made that staff or yourself don’t spend to much time on Facebook as it can be addictive and like everything else it should be used in moderation and care. However, posts should be checked regularly, as negative feedback or complaints should be
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Reto Camichel, Owner, Reto Style Lounge
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Self definition: Perfectionist? Researcher? Enthusiast?
I am all of those things but, I also work with hair intuitively. Hair seems to be in my psyche. I am like a sponge with ideas, it all soaks in and then comes out as a concept for hair. I am very good at visualising what will look right. I look at things from a different perspective. Your father was a photographer: is this where you got your interest in beauty and developing images?
My father always made me look at objects in a different light and I definitely think that he is a major influence on me. He taught me what makes a great photograph and the technicalities of post production.
Antoinette
Beenders Antoinette Beenders is Aveda’s Senior Vice President of Creative & Global Creative Director. She is also the inspiration and driving force behind all the modern day images used globally by Aveda.
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In 1988, you began working with Trevor Sorbie: what role did he and others play in your personal development?
Trevor played a pivotal role in my career, he opened doors for me and while I was there I worked with great names including Robert Lobetta. I travelled a great deal with Trevor, launching and developing his products around the world. At that time I also worked with Eugene Souleiman, Vivienne Mackinder and Kene Franklin, and they all helped me grow professionally. How did you come into contact with Aveda? What was your very first contact?
I was introduced to Horst Rechelbacher, the founder of Aveda, when I was in the States. He explained the Aveda ethos and asked me to come on board. I had been with Trevor for 11 years at this point and decided this was the time to move on. You have been the International Creative Director of Aveda since 1998 and are now Senior Vice President Creative. What does it mean to be so faithful to one company for so long and to attain such a prestigious position?
Aveda endeavours to make the world a better place by caring for the world that we live in, from the products they create and manufacture to the things they give back to society, not just in the world of beauty, but around the world.
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“I’ve never been a celebrity hairdresser - I’d rather have a client in the salon than a celebrity any day!”
What are the keys to success for a stylist?
Learn your craft from a great mentor. Source your inspiration. Explore, take chances, push boundaries... After winning so many awards, what motivates you?
I love what I do, I am learning new things constantly. I love passing on knowledge to the next generation. You travel between Minneapolis and London: how do you deal with so much travel? Do you still feel Dutch?
Minneapolis, where I have a house on the lake, keeps me grounded and enables me to recharge. New York energises me. In the UK, I love to soak up the creative atmosphere. Milan fills me with history, but Holland will always been my spiritual home. It’s where my roots are.
are, and were, masters of their craft and I really appreciate their attention to details. Photographs and artists – Zanna; she is such an inspiration; her images retain a dream-like ethereal quality with her talent for captu ring the magic in the moment when an image gels is incredible. I love Andrew Moore who is an internationally recognised photographic artist who works in large format. I own one of his images called Palace Theatre which I think is simply brilliant. Finally Paolo Roversi who works with natural light, slow speeds and large 10 x 8 format to create texture and delicacy in his images. We all have times when we need inspiration that is when I retreat to Minneapolis take my boat on the lake and chill. What is your next objective?
A photo shoot with Zanna and planning the Aveda International Congress for this coming Autumn. And finally - tell us one of your vices!
I do love chocolate...
A new collection: how do you prepare for a photoshoot?
I create mood boards for all my collections. These can take a long time to put together, I gather cuttings, pieces of fabric, photographs, inspiration from nature and gradually the concept evolves. Now to discuss some of the many aspects of your job: Fashion shows, who do you prefer to work with and why?
I like working on fashion shows. I’m mainly in New York and there are so many designers I work with including Christian Siriano, Sophie Theallet and John Patrick. Celebrities: who do you create looks for? What are the more delicate aspects of this job?
I have never been a celebrity hairdresser. I am not comfortable with the celebrity culture. I would rather have a client in the salon than a celebrity any day. What if you had never become a hairdresser...
I’d be a detective! I love to analyse and investigate things. With the way things have moved on in recent years, I may have even been a forensic scientist. How do you stay inspired? Have you ever had a block?
I am inspired by so many things, fashion designers, Azzadine Alaia and the late Alexander McQueen –
A former British Hairdresser of the Year, Antoinette Beeders is a true visionary, with a passion for creating arresting visuals and unique styles.
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LOC A L e ve n t s L’Oréal Professionnel Expert Technique (Ammonia Free), Johannesburg
17 October and 1 November
Inoa Specialist, Johannesburg
19 October
Smoothing Texture, Johannesburg
24 October
Colour Change, Durban Cape Town
24 and 25 October 2 and 3 November
H3 Connection, Johannesburg
26 October
Matrix C.R.A.F.T Inspiration, Johannesburg and KwaZulu-Natal
24 October
Smooth Operator, KwaZulu-Natal Cape Town
18 October 24 October
Paint Your Town Namibia Red, Namibia
18 October
Reds Year End Planning Conference, KwaZulu-Natal and Cape Town 7, 8 and 9 November
Redken Specialist, Johannesburg, Durban and Cape Town
17-19 October
Flawless Finish, Johannesburg, Durban and Cape Town
25 October
Pureology Pure Discovery, Johannesburg, Durban and Cape Town
25 October
Principles of Consultation, Bloemfontein
26 October and 8 November
Spotlight Collection, Johannesburg, Durban and Cape Town
1 November
Lightening Collection and Foil Placement, Johannesburg and Durban Cape Town
2 November 9 November
Redken Certified Haircolourist Prep Night, Durban
14 November
Redken Certified Haircolourist, Durban
14 November
Redken Specialist Exam, Johannesburg Durban and Cape Town
21 Novemeber
Joico
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Men’s Grooming, Cape Town
17 October
Fundamental Colour, Cape Town
24 October
Executive Colour Correction, Cape Town
31 October
preview Paul Mitchell
Ace Quest Finals, Johannesburg 22nd Hairstylist of the Year, Johannesburg
Great Lengths
3 Day Basic Training Course, Durban Johannesburg Cape Town
Wella - Kadus
Radiantly Red, Cape Town Johannesburg Bloemfontein
Schwarzkopf
A G E N D A
16 October 4 December
24-26 October 7-9 November 21-23 November 17 October 24 October 31 October
Green Evolution, Johannesburg Pretoria Midrand
17 October 24 October 29 November
Power of Caring, Alberton Johannesburg Pretoria
17 October 24 October 14 November
Colour Confidence, Pretoria Benoni Midrand and Alberton West Rand November
17 October 21 November 22 November 28
Challenging Blondes, Benoni Midrand
24 October 21 November
Royal Colourist, Cape Town Durban Inspirational Form, Bloemfontein Free Styling AM & Demi Design PM, Ermelo, Kimberly and Port Elizabeth Upington Pretoria Midrand Operators Excellence, Midrand and Benoni
Hands Down
Cutting and Colour Demonstration, Cape Town
1 and 14 November 7, 8 and 21 November 7 November 7 November 8 November 21 November 28 November 14 November
17 October
Alternative Hair Show London London 16 October
Royal Albert Hall, London, UK www.alternativehair.org
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do not forget
MONTHbyMONTH
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Shows & Competitions
October 15-17
Goldwell Color Zoom Miami (USA)
www.colorzoom11.com
16-17
Beauté Sélection Paris (France)
www.beauteselection.com
26-29
InterCharm Moscow (Russia)
www.intercharm.ru
28-30
Cosmobeaute
Jakarta (Indonesia) www.cosmobeauteasia.com
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Intl. Trend Vision Award New York (USA)
14-16 October
www.wella.com
Madrid (Spain)
November
Salon Look International IFEMA Feria de Madrid 28042 Madrid, Spain Ph. +34 91 7223000 – Fax +34 91 7225795 www.salonlook.ifema.es
2-4
In-Cosmetics Asia Bangkok (Thailand)
www.in-cosmeticsasia.com
15-17 October
Salon International London (UK)
ExCel Reed Business Information Limited Quadrant House – The Quadrant Sutton, Surrey – SM2 5AS, UK Ph. +44 020 77442000 www.salonexhibitions.co.uk
5-6
Cosmetica Berlin Berlin (Germany)
www.cosmetica.de
5-7
San Juan Beauty Show San Juan (Puerto Rico)
www.sanjuanbeautyshow.net
6-7
Beauté Sélection Lyon (France)
www.beauteselection.com
9-11
Cosmoprof Asia
AROUNDtheWORLD 24-26 October
Beautyworld Japan West INTEX Osaka Mesago Messe Frankfurt Corporation Shosankan 7F, 1-3-2 Iidabashi Chiyoda-ku, 102-0072, Tokyo, Japan Ph. +81 3 32628453 Fax +81 3 32628442 www.beautyworldjapan.com
Osaka (Japan)
México City 30 October - 1 November (México) Expo Beauty Show
Banamex Center AFG Group Lateral Autopista Mexico Toluca 1235 Int. 302, Lomas de Santa Fe, 053000 México City, México Ph. +52 52925061 Fax +52 52924806 www.expobeautyshow.com
Hong Kong (HK)
www.cosmoprof-asia.com
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Colour & Technique 2011
In depth step-by-step instructions on how to create the hottest cuts, styles and colours of the moment. The Best Colour & Technique 2011 album is the must-have business tool for every salon and hair professional. s t e pb ys t e p Best colour & technique 2011.indd 1
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Paul Mitchell Hairstylist of the Year Competition
Make sure not to miss this year’s Paul Mitchell Hairstylist Competition held at the Lyric Theatre, Gold Reef City on Sunday 4 December. For the 22nd year running, the event will showcase some of South Africa’s top hairstylists in the hairdressing industry. In order to enter the competition, hairstylists need to submit a portfolio of their work and enter into any of the following five categories: Hairstylist of the Year – stylists must be a practicing qualified hairstylist for a minimum of three years; Team Paul Mitchell – each team may have a minimum of three and a maximum of six team members who will perform together; Avant Garde – aimed at showcasing the artistic creativity of the hairdresser; The Boys – current men’s hair trends; Young Blood – open to stylists younger than 25 years and with less than two years working experience. The winner of the Hairstylist of the Year category will be awarded a trip to Las Vegas to attend the Paul Mitchell Signature Gathering. Tickets cost R220 (R180 early bird special). For more information, contact Karen on 011 305 1600.
Sebastian What’s Next Challenge
Sebastian Professional is calling all fearless stylists to take part in the Sebastian What’s Next Challenge and get to style backstage at New York Fashion Week. Go to www.whatsnextchallenge.co.za and have a look at the creative brief for the challenge. Create the most daring look, cut or style and upload a photo of your work before 30 November 2011. Online voting and a jury of Sebastian core members will select 10 finalists from around the world to compete in the grand finale in Berlin on 15 January 2012. The winner will be selected by the Sebastian jury and will participate as a team member during New York Fashion Week. There will be a prize and media exposure for the highest ranked South African style. Good luck to you all!
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Pink Hair shows you care 2011
Great Lengths, in conjunction with the Cancer Association of South Africa (CANSA), is donating the profit from the sales of their pink hair extensions for the months of September and October. Anyone is able to show their support by adding Great Lengths 100 percent natural human hair Pink extensions. Choose from a soft pastel pink or bright, funky and crazy pink. Visit one of over 250 Great Lengths partner salons countrywide to have your Pink Extensions installed. In 2010, the first year, Great Lengths managed to donate over R60 000 to CANSA and are confident that 2011 will be even bigger. Join brand ambassadors Cindy Nell-Roberts, Lorna Maseko, Amor Vittone, Nicole Flint, Loui Fish, Angela Killian, Shashi Naidoo, and recently Tarina Patel, who have shown their support for this worthwhile cause. Thandi Newton: the face of Olay Total Effects Olay has announced Thandi Newton as the face of its Total Effects anti-ageing range. Olay chose Thandi to represent their product as she perfectly personifies the Total Effects range. The actress, wife and mother of two is an aspirational role-model for working women with children and busy schedules. Thandie’s pragmatic approach to a beauty routine ensures her skincare is as multitasking as she is. The award-winning actress joins Sex and the City actress Kim Cattrall as brand ambassador of the Olay Total Effects anti-ageing range. Both women understand the need to look their best on and off screen and have incorporated Olay’s all-in-one anti-ageing product into their daily beauty routines.
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Revlon All Access application for iPhone
Revlon have announced the launch of their first iPhone app: Revlon All Access! The app was created with Vogue magazine as part of their Added Value programs for the 2011 Revlon media strategy. In addition to the iPhone app, the program will include in-book advertorials, email blasts, sweepstakes, web chats, and Revlon All Access promotional events in New York, Los Angeles and Chicago. The iPhone app gives you exclusive daily beauty and fashion insights directly from Revlon All Access experts Gucci Westman, June Ambrose, Polly Blitzer and Annabel Tollman. Let these four industry pros help you stand out with relevant trends of the seasons, how-to tricks and coveted style selections.
Joico®. Sponsors Kia Johnston Joico® will now be hair maintenance sponsor to Kia Johnston, presenter on Expresso Morning Show on SABC 3. “We are ecstatic to have Kia on board with us, and look forward to a long, ‘healthy hair’ relationship!” stated JOICO®.
Lorna Jane Active Wear makes a move to South Africa
Australia’s premier women’s active wear brand, Lorna Jane, opened its doors in South Africa at Shop U21A, Morningside Shopping Centre, Johannesburg, in August 2011. Renowned internationally for creating stylish, figure-flattering active wear, Lorna Jane garments are specially crafted for real women by women. With an exceptional fit, contemporary design and quality technical fabrics, Lorna Jane pieces motivate women to lead their lives in a healthy and positive way and encourage them to achieve their best life through Active Living. The three signature squares within the logo, which have been synonymous with the brand for over 21 years, have meaning – move, nourish and believe. Lorna Jane wants its customers to understand that to Activate Their Life they need to live by these three principles – move your body, nourish from the inside and believe in yourself. She said they were ready to spread the message of Lorna Jane worldwide and had identified South Africa as the perfect market for women’s fashionable active wear. “I am sure that the modern women of South Africa will embrace our fashion-forward approach to work-out wear and will identify with our proactive approach to healthy living,” she says.
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Kérastase Chroma Sensitive
After colouring the hair, the foam of classic shampoos and the friction necessary for cleansing can prevent the colour from lastingly adhering and lead to colour release. To meet the needs of the most demanding colours, Kérastase has created a cleansing care product and a gentle treatment for your colour which is low-foaming and is used in alternation with your usual shampoo. The creamy textured formula contains reduced surfactants which limits the friction of the hair fibre as well as abrasion and has an intensive emollient base to nourish the hair fibre deep down and close its scales in order to prevent leakage of pigments. In the salon, use on the day of colouring as a post-colouring optimiser. Apply the necessary amount, depending on hair length, to wet hair. Delicately massage and emulsify with a sufficient amount of water. Leave on for two to three minutes and rinse thoroughly. For at home use, it is recommended to use the cleansing balm on its own, two to three times during the week following colouring for effective anti-fading action. Then, use the Chroma Sensitive and alternate with your usual shampoo and mask. The day that Chroma Sensitive is applied, do not apply any other product to ensure that the softness of the cream is maintained in order to deeply seal the scales.
ghd Scarlet Collection
Just in time for Christmas 2011, hair styling brand ghd introduces the ghd Scarlet Collection. Inspired by the revelry and glamour of the roaring 20s, the slick new styler is available in two luxurious art deco styled gift set options. Both sets include the ghd Gold Classic styler featuring red plates and accents and will be available in selected salons nationwide from the end of October 2011. To launch the collection, Katy Perry, face of ghd and the epitome of modern style and fashion has been given a ‘20s make over bringing to life the decadence and sophistication of the time. Katy is immortalised as a mystical Snow White for the Scarlet Collection campaign, shot by world renowned photographer, David LaChapelle. The limited editions are presented in two luxury art deco indulgent gift set options. The Scarlet Collection includes a heat resistant red satin styler roll bag, a limited edition ghd Gold Classic styler, a protective plate guard to safeguard your styler and two sectioning clips to help you style like a pro. The Scarlet Collection Deluxe includes a limited edition ghd Gold Classic styler, sectioning clips and protective plate guard as well as a compact ghd travel hairdryer, a stylish red satin styler clutch bag and a deep red vanity case.
L’Oréal Professionnel Inoa Suprême
L’Oréal Professionnel has created Inoa Suprême, an age-defying ammoniafree hair colour that caters to the specific needs of mature hair such as greying, thinning, loss of density and dullness. The new agedefying ammonia-free hair colour has been specifically designed for very grey hair (70-100 percent) and guarantees up to 100 percent coverage of grey. Expert colourists have created a wide range of shades from light beiges to chocolate browns and sun-kissed reds. Inoa’s oil-enriched technology (ODS) helps restore hair’s natural protective layer and complements the colouring agent. It is blended with Densilum Complex: Ionene G, and a cationic polymer that coats the hair fiber creating a hair-boosting effect and radiant shine.
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xAwapuhi Wild Ginger HydroCream Whip
Treat your hair with the new Awapuhi Wild Ginger HydroCream Whip. A decadent whipped styling cream that envelops strands with light conditioners for maximum hydration and contains natural Awapuhi extract to combat frizz for a smooth finish with touchable hold. The unique styling formula suits various hair types and can achieve a voluminous blow-out or define curls and waves. HydroCream Whip will leave your hair feeling silky with a touchable finish and healthy-looking volume while the Awapuhi extract hydrates and fights frizz.
yTrichotin DHT Inhibitor
Designed to combat the effects of androgenic alopecia, Fusion Laboratories has formulated Trichotin DHT Inhibitor. The caplet, which is to be taken at bedtime once a day, provides the body with the beneficial nutrients and herbal extracts to lower the production of Dihydrotestosterone (DHT) and improve hair follicle activity. A unique blend of nutrients prevents follicle damage and stimulates hair growth. High purity, certified Saw Palmetto and Beta-Sitosterol inhibit the action of 5AR, thereby preventing hair loss. Nettle contains polysaccharides with immunomodulating and antiinflammatory effects to diminish the effects of androgenic hormones while Co-enzyme Q10, a potent antioxidant rejuvenates the scalp and stimulates follicle repair. shiny, healthy and manageable.
zJOICO® Vero K-Pak® Color Intensity collection
Joico® Vero K-Pak® Color Intensity collection is the new trend driven shade collection from Joico® that gives hair colour pros the power to create vivid, on-trend and intense shades. This intermixable palette of semi permanents includes five shades: red, yellow, orange, indigo and pink; along with a clear mixer, so it’s possible to create any hue, shade and nuance. The collection can be applied straight from the tube, or combined in endless combinations. Each hue can be used with or without the clear mixer, for a range of intensities from extreme, to moderate, to less intense. Ideally applied to pre-lightened hair, results from these highly-pigmented semipermanents will last anywhere from three weeks to three months, depending on the hair’s condition and porosity. The shade collection reconstructs as it colours, thanks to the exclusive Quadramine Complex™ from Joico®. Hair emerges shiny, healthy and manageable.
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{Schwarzkopf Professional BC Bonacure Hairtherapy Amino Cell Rebuild Smooth Shine Range
The Schwarzkopf Professional laboratories developed the Amino Cell Rebuild Technology: a formulation to rebuild the hair structure. The Amino Cell Rebuild Technology recharges the hair with new strength and elasticity, for outstanding shine with each application. The Schwarzkopf Professional BC Bonacure Hairtherapy Amino Cell Rebuild Smooth Shine range consists of three products; the Smooth Shining Shampoo, Conditioner and Leave-in treatment and is suited to curly or wavy hair. The shampoo gently cleanses and tames while the conditioner detangles and smoothes unmanageable hair. The Smooth Shine Leave-in treatment intensively restores and smoothes down the hair for a radiant shine and lasting frizz protection.
|Lisap Man Color
The Lisap Man Color cream is 100 percent ammonia free and formulated specifically for the modern man! The Lisap Man Color Cream will mask white hair in just five minutes, has no re-growth because it will gradually fade after 5-6 weeks, will produce natural results with neutral effects and enhances the natural ‘salt and pepper’ appearance. The formulation contains phyto-enhancer and ginseng extract which protects and creates an ‘anti-age’ action on hair fibres while the Ceramide A2 strengthens the hair and makes it smoother. The Lisap Man Color range comes in five natural shades: brown, dark chestnut, chestnut, light chestnut and dark blonde; and has a unique shade 00.18 that gives a special light silver tone with a shiny ’salt and pepper’ effect delicately illuminating white hair.
}Biosense SLK Shampoo & Conditioner
The Biosense SLK Shampoo & Conditioner will smooth unmanageable and unruly hair. The unique rich and creamy formulation of Cleomilk, Cocomide and Croda extract penetrates deep into the cortex of the hair, replenishing the hair’s natural oils while moisturising even the most stubborn curls. The combination of these two products will leave curly and coarse hair feeling silkier, smoother and looking straighter.
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Head Office: Corso Cairoli, 16 10123 Torino (Italy) Tel.: +39 011 83921113 Fax: +39 011 8171188 info@publimatic.it www.estetica.it Foro Bonaparte, 76 20121 Milano (Italy) Tel.: +39 02 72094900 Fax: +39 02 86995230 info@publimatic.it www.estetica.it Estetica Italia Edizioni Esav Via Cavour, 50 10123 Torino (Italy) Tel.: +39 011 83921111 Fax: +39 011 8125661 info@estetica.it www.estetica.it Estetica Australia & NZ 41 Bridge Rd, Glebe, NSW 2037 (Australia) Tel.: +61 2 9660 2113 Fax: +61 2 9660 4419 estetica@intermedia.com.au www.intermedia.com.au Estetica Brazil Rua Cunha Gago, 412 cj. 33 Pinheiros, 3rd floor, 05421-001 São Paulo SP (Brazil) Tel.: +55 11 2713 8150 Fax: +55 11 30395674 publicidadeesteticabrazil@duettoeditorial.com.br www.esteticabrazil.com.br
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ESTETICA INTERNATIONAL Publisher & Director Roberto Pissimiglia Estetica Network Editorial Director Carla De Meo Estetica Network Editor-in-chief Laura Castelli International Editorial Coordinator Fatima Pilone International Editorial Assistants Ludovica Cavalli, Carola Piazza Editorial Staff Sergi Bancells, Paola Gallotti, Daniela Giambrone, Gary Kelly, Annette Rübesamen, Petra Weinzierl Art Direction Barbara Belletti Layout Manuela Artosi, Paola Baratta, Davide Cardente, Elisa Favara Licensing Editorial Coordinator Erika Marchese Licensing Manager Elena Flaugnatti Sales Supervisor Italy, France, Germany, Poland, The Netherlands, South Africa Emilio de’ Martino
AD LIST IFC ghd 2
L’Oréal Professionnel
4
Redken
7
Icon Hair Cosmetics
8
Unique Trends
16 Inoar 22 Burberry 24 Global Hair Revolution 28 Wella 101 Icon Hair Cosmetics IBC Head Quarters OBC Redken
S T O C K I S T S
STOCKISTS / WHERE TO FIND IT
A
Atmosphere (021) 461 2117, www.atmosphere.co.za Armani (011) 888 8548 Almay (011) 971 0833 Acquizhen (021) 785 2650
B
M
Maybelline (011) 888 8548 My Salon Software (011) 787 6905, terry@mysalonsoftware.co.za
O
Olay (021) 555 4471
Biosense (011) 305 1600, www.twincare.co.za Bush Telegraph Publicity (011) 783 372 Burberry (021) 442 7700
P
D
Eclipse Public Relations (021) 555 4471, www.eclipsepr.co.za
Redken (011) 286 0700, www.redken.co.za Red Marketing (011) 484 9088, rachel@redmarketing.co.za Reto Style Lounge (021) 702 4018 Revlon (011) 971 08 33 Rimmel (021) 507 8148, www.indigocosmetics.com
F
S
Declêor (021) 702 3466
E
Freebees PR & Marketing (021) 785 2650, www.freebees.co.za Fusion Laboratories (011) 722 2853
G
ghd (021) 461 2117, www.ghdhair.co.za Global Hair Revolution (053) 832 2421 Great Lengths (011) 326 1525 Guess (021) 507 8148 Guerlain (021) 442 7700
H
Head Quarters (011) 839 0009, www.headquarters.co.za Henkel South Africa (011) 203 0700, www.henkel.co.za
I
Icon Hair Cosmetics (012) 361 8474, iconhair@mweb.co.za Indigo Cosmetics (021) 507 8148, www.indigocosmetics.com Issey Miyake (021) 442 7700, www.isseymiyakeparfums.com
J
Jean Paul Gaultier (021) 442 7700 Joico (021) 876 4113, www.joico.co.za
K
Katy Perry (021) 785 2650 Kérastase (021) 286 0700
L
L’Oréal Paris (011) 888 8548 L’Oréal Professionnel (011) 286 0700, www.loreal.co.za Lorna Jane Active Wear (011) 883 5785 Luxottica Eyewear (021) 486 6176
Availability was checked at the time of going to press. ESTETICA cannot guarantee that items will be in stock at the time of publication.
128| E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A
Paul Mitchell (011) 305 1600
R
Schwarzkopf Professional (011) 203 0713, annelies.marais@za.henkel.com Sebastian Professional (021) 555 4282 Sensai (021) 442 7700 Services SETA (011) 276 9600, www.serviceseta.org.za Synergy Hair Intercoiffure (021) 713 1339
T
Taryn Fritz PR (011) 888 8548 Timex (011) 405 3300 The Prestige Cosmetics Group (021) 442 7700 Twincare International (011) 305 1600, www.twincare.co.za Tynago Communications (011) 883 5785
U
Unique Trends (011) 869 3657
V
Vichy (011) 888 8548
W
Wella (021) 555 4282, www.wella.com
Y
Yardley (021) 507 8148, www.indigocosmetics.com Yves Saint-Laurent (011) 888 85 48
HQ Early Christmas Sale
PRACTICAL, COMFORTABLE with ergonomic handle and brand new side switches with lever. EFFICIENT, the frizziest hair will be straightened by its power. A PARTNER for YOUR HAIR ionization device moisturises the hair making it smooth and silky, eliminating electrostatic charges.
WIN
The FIRST 3 customers to bring this advert to our showroom will win the coveted Cube Solo Moda style guide book – valued at R799, with over 850 pages of new European hair styles.
Jhb Tel: +27 (0) 11 839 0009/ 10/12 Fax: + 27 (0) 11 839 0015 Email: anver@headquarters.co.za Info@headquarters.co.za
2000w Ionic Ceramic
Elchim hairdryers were R999, now on sale for
R799
Durban Tel: +27 (0) 31 312 5680 Email: durban@headquarters.co.za
www.headquarters.co.za Est: 1991
HQ_Estetica_Ad.indd 1
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N° 15/11 EDITION
15
THE WORLD’S LEADING HAIR FASHION MAGAZINE
FASHION Cape Town Fashion Week EVENT Colour Trophy 2011 ROUND TABLE Tech Chat
1 5 TH E D I T I O N 2011
R58.95
Intra Force OBC (estetica).indd 1
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03/10/2011 15:25
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15/11
ISSUE NO.15
RSA: R58.95 (INCL. VAT)
A TOPCO MEDIA PUBLICATION
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