N° 17/12 EDITION
17
THE WORLD’S LEADING HAIR FASHION MAGAZINE
Everywhere i n the world It’s always Estetica time!
1 7 TH E D I T I O N 2012
R58.95 17/12
Feature Is your hair thinning or falling out? All you need to know Interview ghd’s CEO, Paul Stoneham News Estetica and ExclusiveBrandsTorino Joya Agate Drusy Rings
www. e s t e t ic a . co.z a
ghdhair.com AW600_SA AIR 2012_TRADE REVEAL DPS .indd 1
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A new kind of power The new ghd air professional hairdryer For more information please contact your ghd account manager or call 086 010 9366
AW600_SA AIR 2012_TRADE REVEAL DPS .indd 2
20/02/2012 10:01
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C o N T E N T Hair: Essential Looks for Schwarzkopf Professional Creative direction: Steve Hogan Photo: Peter Gehrke Make-up: Gudrun Müller Styling: Lucy Manning Products: Schwarzkopf Professional
ESTETICA FASHION N0. 17/12 – SEVENTEENTH EDITION 2012
Published under licence from Estetica, Edizioni Esav srl, Turin/Italy Published by Topco Media 5th Floor Pinnacle Building Strand Street Cape Town Ph: 086 000 9590 Fax: 021 423 7876 Email: info@estetica.co.za Website: www.estetica.co.za
STAFF Publisher Richard Fletcher
Designers revealed in all the colours of the rainbow. Deceptively simple coifs oozed sophistication
General Manager Van Fletcher Editor Cindy Horton Sub-Editor Thulile Nxumalo Design Jayne Mace´ Talbot Ferguson
FASHION
12
Catwalks Pastel Palettes
16
Book Hair Travel
19 Hair Trend
Special Effects
20
Events International Trend Vision Award
22
Events Goldwell Color Zoom
24
Trends Subtle Shading
CONTRIBUTORS Photography Simon Deiner / SDR Photography
28
Nails Banging Nails
31
Beauty Make-up
Printers Paarl Media Paarl
33
Beauty Women
35
Beauty Men
36
Vision Elitist Freedom
Advertising & Business Development Manager Lizel Jonker Subscriptions ingrid.johnstone@topco.co.za
Sensational glamour: so elegant, so beautiful, and so alluring. These hair-do’s have a dazzling grandezza and magnificent radiance
Moda:
International
Trends
P RO F ESS I ONAL
44
Young American
94
Interview Adil Mehboob-Khan
48
Vintage Project
98
Interview Paul Stoneham
52
Nature’s Palette
100
Events
56
Guest Star
102 Events
60
Primitive Beauty
104
Feature
Hair loss
66
Pure Energy
106
Interview
Elma Titus
70
A Tailor’s Story
110
Interview
Dr Kevin Alexander
74
Opposites Attract
112
Round Table Free Fall
78
Shining Red Carpet
114 Agenda Calendar
82
Absolutely Women
118
News
Report
86
Breaking Tradition
122
Products
Reviews
127
Subscriptions
128
Stockists
90 Stars of Inspiration
Hairdressers Against Aids MITCH Men
Firebrand 5997
amPliFy your PerFormance Heads may swing on the runway – but they really turn corners on the street and that’s where you are. Turning hair trends into style, living the look, creating hair to suit your fashion mood in your own way. Wella Professionals‘ care and styling ranges will deliver the best possible you. www.wella.com
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e D i t o r i a l Hair: Essential Cindy Looks Horton for Schwarzkopf Professional Editor Creative direction: Estetica Steve SouthHogan Africa cindy.horton@topco.co.za Photo: Peter Gehrke Make-up: Gudrun MĂźller Styling: Lucy Manning Products: Schwarzkopf Professional
Welcome to our first edition of 2012. The New Year gives us the opportunity to gain a new perspective, a fresh approach and to take advantage of new opportunities. However with these leaps of faith into untouched territory and new beginnings comes change. Change in your daily routine, change in your mind set and of course, change brings new challenges. I for one, find change a bit daunting to begin with, but once the first steps have been put into place, i find it quite refreshing and exciting. Therefore, I have decided to embrace the changes in my life this year with optimism and positivity. In the light of my new found freedom from change, I decided that it was time for ESTETICA to go through a mild transformation of its own. I hope you enjoy our subtle new look throughout the magazine and the new additions we have install for you this year. I am happy to announce that we will be showcasing a special feature in all our upcoming editions for the year. In this edition we explore the various causes and contributors to hair thinning and hair loss in women, men, children and adolescents. You will receive expert advice on making a diagnosis and the relevant treatment from Trichologist Elma Titus and Dr Kevin Alexander. ESTETICA investigates the variety of products available to assist with hair thinning and scalp conditions on the Product Review pages 122-125. In the Round Table Discussion, two local hair stylists and salon owners offer advice on ways to deal with clients experiencing hair loss and products they recommend. In addition, we will be publishing three gorgeous supplements this year. With the huge success of ESTETICA AFRO’s launch last year, we have decided to not only do one, but two AFRO magazines this year, as well as our forever popular Best Colour & Technique supplement. I hope that the year ahead is filled with promising opportunities, positivity and of cause, lots of laughter.
Cindy Horton Editor
E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A | 11
Pastel
Palettes
Designers reveled in all the colours of the rainbow, heralding in spring and summer with collections that drew their inspiration from European art and films.
Siriano
Fabrics were flowing in either stunning solid hues or water-colour washes.
T
by Marie Scarano
here is always that special week in September that allows us to glimpse what we can expect following the long, cold winter months, and this year it was a particularly welcomed event, given the sherbet-esque colours that most designers chose for these delicious confections. From lime green, to canary yellow, fabulous fuchsia, and even tropical turquoise. For Preen, Aveda’s Paul Hanlon came up with a rolled up-do that evoked the 1940’s to second yet enhance the structured silhouettes cut by pencil skirts and trousers. First hair was brushed and then tightly rolled and twisted up and back before being pinned into place. The models were however, a bit “cheeky”, sporting apricot and mango blush and a bold and colourful block patterns that made this collection so mix&match perfect with the complementary solid coloured pieces. A more ironic flair was achieved when this geometric rigidity was interrupted by cascades of black and white flowers. Antoinette Beenders styled hair for Christian Siriano’s somewhat frillier collection, speaking volumes in poofs and ruffles and pleats in solid colours and white being an accent rather than a neutral. Beenders first made sleek braids with Aveda Control Spray and then used a flat-iron for texture before finger-combing them out for a naturally feminine look. Then, of course, an all-time favorite, Sophie Theallet presented her Deceptively simple ultra-feminine yet no-nonsense couture, embracing coifs oozed colour as she has never done before, but opting for lots sophistication of solid fuchsia, turquoise, and canary yellows, except when it came down to her multi-hued strappy sandals and shoes. As Theallet was admittedly inspired by the 1969 French film “La Piscine” for this collection, Didier Malige decided to follow suit with an instinctually sensual wet-look chignon – both fresh and French – empowering the women who confidently ooze femininity in these flowing flocks. Preen
Preen
C A T W A L K S
photooniPad Deceptively simple and elegant styles often take hard work and a professional touch, as the Aveda team of Beenders, Hanlon, and Malige demonstrate.
Whether up-do’s or down-dos, for the utmost elegance, professional styling products make a big difference.
Preen
Preen
Sophie Theallet
Sophie Theallet
All photos by Jon Gurinsky for Aveda
Catwalk photos: IMAXtree.com/Vincenzo Grillo
E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A | 13
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Elene Cassis Jenny Packham
Jenny Packham
Jenny Packham
Jenny Packham
c a t w a l k s
Jenny Packham
Elene Cassis
Plenty of pastels for a soft babydoll look Cloudy prisms
Jenny Packham’s sumptuously fluttery collection was all soft and flowing, no matter what length, whether quasi-babydoll or sweeping the floor. Some ton-sur-ton crystals and beading added just the right bling, trimming decolletés and illuminating shoulders and bodices to draw attention up towards the face. Mostly solid colours ranged from white to tangerine and pale chartreuse, with some poppy red for true diva appeal. Silky and slinky fabrics were seconded by Leonardo Manetti, who styled hair for L’Oréal by parting it slightly to the side before smoothing it out into sleek elegant tresses that caressed the shoulder and moved naturally, making it the perfect complement to the flow of the dresses. L’Oréal Professionnel Perfect Shimmer shine illuminating mist gave the ultimate touch of elegance, once again demonstrating that beautiful, healthy hair is always right on trend. Simplicity continued to dominate in Elene Cassis’s collection, so sought after for her elegant, confident, and clean lines that are always feminine, always urban chic, and oohh-so wearable. This season Cassis opted for refreshing pastels like coral, powder blue, and canary yellow, while her signature black&white this year were relegated to function as neutrals, adding depth to an otherwise twodimensional minimalist look that evoked classic 1960’s contours. L’Oréal Professionnel’s Amit Abraham took the cue by bobbing hair to enhance the geometric colour – blocked feminine frocks: minimalistic but frivolous – crimping hair with L’Oréal Infinium 3 for wave patterns and finishing up with Fresh Dust for less shine and more matte effect. The final look was refreshing, breaking away from expectations of a vintage beehive updo or retrobob or sophisticated flip. “In order to add detail into the hair, you need to manipulate its texture …,” said Abraham. “The final texture of the hairstyle was inspired by the intricacy of the fabrics she used, a complementary contrast to Elene’s clean lines and geometric designs.”
L’Oréal Professionnel artists Leonardo Manetti and Amit Abraham drew inspiration from the collections for their catwalk coifs. Backstage photos courtesy of L’Oréal Professionnel.
E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A | 15
Hair
travel
More than one thousand images to celebrate hairstyling and its evolution. Hairstyles is a journey in time: how we have coifed our hair from antiquity to today.
T
16| E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A
Below: one of the one-thousand images that make up the heart of this book.
“The Art and Craft of Haidressing”, Gilbert A.Foan, 1936
“La Coiffu re
„La Peinture, L’Architècture“, aus La Vie Parisienne, 1910.
et Les Mod es”, 1922
Ancient to Present, published by Fiell, 576 pages, e 59.95.
here is nothing more characteristic about a person’s appearance, whether male or female, as his or her hairstyle. Our hair defines our style, our social class, our lifestyle. More than clothes, accessories, and often more than many words. It is therefore not surprising that hair has always fascinated experts of style and image. Hairstyling regularly goes beyond the confines of the salon and the mirror, even reaching bookshops, ending up side by side with much more controversial issues. Hairstyles Ancient to Present, by English author Charlotte Fiell, is a voyage into the world of hairdressing, a celebration of the art of styling hair, or moulding it and linking it to fashion. A true Bible of international hairstyling that reveals how we coifed our locks a century ago, during the Punk era, during the Renaissance, or in Ancient Greece. More than one-thousand photographs, portraits, and drawings. Indeed, a study of the evolution of hairstyling as an expressive tool and benchmark of costume. The cover (“Mystique” by Toni&Guy, 1985) is by Anthony Mascolo, as are many of the hair-do’s that illustrate the second part of this book. The book is also a limited edition, distributed exclusively in TIGI UK salons with great success. There are also plenty of historic and “precious” images: from powdered and abundantly decorated wigs of the XVIII century, where hair was plaited with ostrich feathers, flowers, and jewels, to the photographs of the stars of the silver screen of the 1940’s, with their hair slicked back to perfection. Hairstyles in fact celebrates even the creators of such works, the hairstylists themselves, and their capacity to mould and sculpt hair, to assimilate feminine desires and transform them into cut, colour, and style.
t Le iffure e “La Co
On this page, images of hairstyles and moments dedicated to hairstyling from the past.
Jean Harlow, 1933 (Getty Images)
13 es ”, 19 s Mod
Marguerite Chapman, 1935
Agnes Aires, 1920
Louise Brooks, 1929
Norma Shearer, 1929
Jean Harlow, 1930
“La Coiffure et
Les Modes”, 19
13
b o o k
Travelling back into time. In a book, hairstyling that was and that has made history
H A I R T R E N D
Special
effects Limi Feu Moschino
Catwalks photos: IMAXtree.com/Vincenzo Grillo
Paul Costelloe
John Rocha Viktor & Rolf
Vivienne Westwood
Vivienne Westwood
Yamamoto
Fendi
Serious backcombing, telescopic curls, unexpected partings and plaits, fluorescent colours. The prĂŞt-a-porter fashion shows for spring/summer 2012 are all about fantasy and esprit de vie. From Paris to Milan, the curtain goes up to reveal special effects and hi-tech ideas. From Fendi to Gaultier, Westwood to Limi Feu, the fashion shows bring hairstyles with big egos, full of potential for less over-the-top interpretations in salons. A plait is embellished with long leather ribbons, an up-do drapes over the forehead, a band of fuchsia light illuminates an otherwise simple chignon. Hair-power.
Jean Paul Gaultier
Ann Demeulemeester
Long live fantasy. The new season brings catwalks that focus on special effect fireworks. Haute couture inspiration transferred to high street design.
E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A | 19